From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 00:44:40 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 08:44:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Exciting / Interesting video
In-Reply-To: <4E5F028C.8000204@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkK6Qtno1JiuJbQG4p-uT17kuJU438vZCK_xxzFwBzZs9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E5F028C.8000204@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAAh8et=XTjQh3+YAwFoxssXOw_82V4T_6B_BJ5w7PG_8UiT7xA@mail.gmail.com>

Alan

They have to race with that set up in order to conform to FIA regulations.
Also with wire wheels. Scary though.

Derek


On Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 5:57 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> No wonder the shocks leak.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 8/31/2011 8:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
>> All -
>>
>> Just saw this on the forum.  Very interesting:
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be>
>>
>> Four things I see in this:
>>
>> 1) The later BJ8 suspension is clearly an advance over this earlier set
>> up,
>> as you can see the axle winding up every time he puts on power.  The
>> radius
>> rods serve to stop the windup.
>> 2) Later in the video you see the discs start getting white hot (the car
>> is
>> racing up to 150 mph)
>> 3) Dutch racers are really into the mechanics of it all.
>> 4) I admire the desire to race using the stock suspension!
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com>

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Sep  1 06:26:06 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 8:26:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale
In-Reply-To: <4E5F177C.1020109@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <20110901082606.T5OFC.808.root@pamxwww05-z01>

You have totally lost me on this.  The simple part of this, which I think you missed, is that the person who submitted the ad did not list his name--only a "trade" handle.  This is why I said we didn't know his name------to which you listed all the other addressees as though that meant something to the original concern.

The simple matter was he/she didn't list their name.

Hopefully you uinderstand now.


---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" <shop at justbrits.com> wrote: 

=============
<< I was talking about the original lister of the 100-6 for sale---not 
the "Daves". >>

A "vendor" IS a "Vendor" Tom, which IS why I listed ALL
[as anyone could read <G> ] and not JUST "...the "Daves..." " !

er, wid the exception of somebody that jumps in "The Mail
List - Healeys" and is NOT a Healist and NOT a "List Contributor", then 
offers us a"Great Deal on a
NEW GM/Ford product" ! !  Or our friendly Nigerian
"offering up" a NEW "flim-flam" in return for........! ! !

Assuming [yeah I KNOW !] you are talking about Team
Net Site there is no such box/thing as "...my guess is that since it was 
listed under a Trade..."  ONLY 'Name' [NO "trade"] . 
See Addresses  for Dave Porter (David Nock "should" have same<G>) and 
myself as examples <G> !  There is only a box for "...Mail address...".
In other words.  NO "Sign-up as Trade Person : "  ( box ). !  Nor is 
there a NO "Sign-up as Non-Trade Person ( & have
NO Trade affiliation(s):" ( box ). ! ! <G> !
Likewise, Subscribing to Healeys List via request-healeys AT
Autox.Team.Net ; you only get a conformation mail that you simply Reply 
to it;  presto - you are able to Post and will receive Posts ! !

Ed
" It ain't a bed of roses !"
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl  Thu Sep  1 06:31:58 2011
From: rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl (Rinus Sinke)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 14:31:58 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Exciting / Interesting video
In-Reply-To: <4E5F028C.8000204@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkK6Qtno1JiuJbQG4p-uT17kuJU438vZCK_xxzFwBzZs9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E5F028C.8000204@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4BA78B57-8B23-4681-8A8B-674301208873@kpnplanet.nl>

All with interest in racing Healeys,

The youtube video is from my racing car, AH 3000 MKI 1961, primrose yellow
with two green stripes, driven by my sun Jaap Sinke. The AH is racing with the
European FIA rules en homologation paper for the AH 3000 MK I 1961. It is not
allowed to change the suspension and thus it is stock suspension with other
bushes. You see the suspension has to do a lot of work. We often change the
springs, shockabsorbers (they do not leak) and bushes and now we can se why we
have to care for the suspension. The weight of the car is about 1050 kg. The
topspeed at Le Mans of this car was last year 165 mph. When braking in the
night you see all the discs glowing  red front and rear. Look at
www.healeymeetslemans.nl for some nice video's and photo's.
In the youtube link you can see the car driving by Jaap Sinke at an Dutch
airfield, so it is not real racing. It is the same track as the video with the
ssuspension. If you go to youtube and fill in the name Jaap Sinke Healey en of
Rinus Sinke Healey you find some more nice video's of racing with our AH
racing car.

Cheers,
Rinus Sinke, the Netherlands


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbEc2xxykfI


Op 1 sep 2011, om 05:57 heeft Bob Spidell het volgende geschreven:

> No wonder the shocks leak.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 8/31/2011 8:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> All -
>>
>> Just saw this on the forum.  Very interesting:
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be
>>
>> Four things I see in this:
>>
>> 1) The later BJ8 suspension is clearly an advance over this earlier set
up,
>> as you can see the axle winding up every time he puts on power.  The
radius
>> rods serve to stop the windup.
>> 2) Later in the video you see the discs start getting white hot (the car
is
>> racing up to 150 mph)
>> 3) Dutch racers are really into the mechanics of it all.
>> 4) I admire the desire to race using the stock suspension!
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl

Rinus Sinke
Rijksweg Zuid 20
6031RL Nederweert
The Netherlands

Tel.	+31 495 632707
Fax.	+31 495 585972
Gsm	+31 6 531 962 10
rinussinke at planet.nl

www.healeymeetslemans.nl
www.dhc.nu
www.marijkesinke.nl
www.tourecosse.nl
www.winkelvansinke.nl

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 06:55:59 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 14:55:59 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen bracket nut
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmB3DY-9eWU5D3zGfS8wfRzubgTaAot=w1KQjULyB_J68w@mail.gmail.com>

Dear Friends,

Can anybody tell me, what type of nut did the factory used on the front
sidescreen brackets of the Longbridge BN4s? I understand that the rear was a
1 winged nut, but the front?

Greetings:
Gergo

From mdoust at abarth.ca  Thu Sep  1 07:49:39 2011
From: mdoust at abarth.ca (Mark)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 09:49:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need to Ship 100
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK90RVaFOj3A8TUj6ekdL743fsbZmWKpyu7L6O32iowXw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkK90RVaFOj3A8TUj6ekdL743fsbZmWKpyu7L6O32iowXw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001d01cc68ad$fecd4c80$fc67e580$@ca>

About 8 years ago I moved a car and lots of parts  from California to
Toronto with a household moving company the trucker was from Ontario and
need to fill out his truck and make some extra fuel cash. It was cheap and
he did a great job moving the car.

Cheers 

Mark 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: August-31-11 10:37 PM
To: Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Need to Ship 100

All -

I am looking to ship my 100 from California to Canada.  The car is in decent
running shape, but I'm not too worried about white glove service (i.e.
enclosed container or anything).  I just need efficient and professional
service.

It would be from San Francisco bay area to Toronto.

Does anyone have a good suggestion on where I can find a decent company to
do this?

Thanks,

Alan
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mdoust at abarth.ca

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 08:08:36 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 16:08:36 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen bracket nut
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmB3DY-9eWU5D3zGfS8wfRzubgTaAot=w1KQjULyB_J68w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmB3DY-9eWU5D3zGfS8wfRzubgTaAot=w1KQjULyB_J68w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAAh8et=JwTPMYi-c+nsK0nCKDP=OjS50GcHJWpyXc3vbEar7QA@mail.gmail.com>

Gergo

It was a star shaped nut. See it here on my website


http://www.healeysix.net/Longbridge3.htm

Third photo on the page shows the nuts

Derek
On Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 2:55 PM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> Dear Friends,
>
> Can anybody tell me, what type of nut did the factory used on the front
> sidescreen brackets of the Longbridge BN4s? I understand that the rear was
> a
> 1 winged nut, but the front?
>
> Greetings:
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 08:20:16 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 16:20:16 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen bracket nut
In-Reply-To: <CAAh8et=JwTPMYi-c+nsK0nCKDP=OjS50GcHJWpyXc3vbEar7QA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmB3DY-9eWU5D3zGfS8wfRzubgTaAot=w1KQjULyB_J68w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAAh8et=JwTPMYi-c+nsK0nCKDP=OjS50GcHJWpyXc3vbEar7QA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmD8njOKNAzkfY+Lo_gtfaBz1OLeY0ayiuOk=1X8RDRU1g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Derek,

I checked Your site (as always when I got into trouble  excelent database -
thanks), but mine looks different from each You feature. Something between
them.
My mounting looks more like the second, but still each the frame and the
bracket is different.
I ordered a set of sidescreen brackets a while ago, but I had to make mine
as the were not fitting (screw osition, bolt angle).

Gergo

2011/9/1 Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>

> Gergo
>
> It was a star shaped nut. See it here on my website
>
>
> http://www.healeysix.net/Longbridge3.htm
>
> Third photo on the page shows the nuts
>
> Derek
> On Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 2:55 PM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Dear Friends,
>>
>> Can anybody tell me, what type of nut did the factory used on the front
>> sidescreen brackets of the Longbridge BN4s? I understand that the rear was
>> a
>> 1 winged nut, but the front?
>>
>> Greetings:
>> Gergo
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 08:27:51 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 16:27:51 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Exciting / Interesting video
In-Reply-To: <4BA78B57-8B23-4681-8A8B-674301208873@kpnplanet.nl>
References: <CAFBXTkK6Qtno1JiuJbQG4p-uT17kuJU438vZCK_xxzFwBzZs9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E5F028C.8000204@comcast.net>
	<4BA78B57-8B23-4681-8A8B-674301208873@kpnplanet.nl>
Message-ID: <CAAh8etmKo-Oi+Cn5Gab06soSEwXxCftetrf+UnFY9624nLeU2w@mail.gmail.com>

Great stuff Rinus.

I love the videos on your website, particularly the night section at LeMans.
Great action.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 2:31 PM, Rinus Sinke <rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl> wrote:

> All with interest in racing Healeys,
>
> The youtube video is from my racing car, AH 3000 MKI 1961, primrose yellow
> with two green stripes, driven by my sun Jaap Sinke. The AH is racing with
> the
> European FIA rules en homologation paper for the AH 3000 MK I 1961. It is
> not
> allowed to change the suspension and thus it is stock suspension with other
> bushes. You see the suspension has to do a lot of work. We often change the
> springs, shockabsorbers (they do not leak) and bushes and now we can se why
> we
> have to care for the suspension. The weight of the car is about 1050 kg.
> The
> topspeed at Le Mans of this car was last year 165 mph. When braking in the
> night you see all the discs glowing  red front and rear. Look at
> www.healeymeetslemans.nl for some nice video's and photo's.
> In the youtube link you can see the car driving by Jaap Sinke at an Dutch
> airfield, so it is not real racing. It is the same track as the video with
> the
> ssuspension. If you go to youtube and fill in the name Jaap Sinke Healey en
> of
> Rinus Sinke Healey you find some more nice video's of racing with our AH
> racing car.
>
> Cheers,
> Rinus Sinke, the Netherlands
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbEc2xxykfI
>
>
> Op 1 sep 2011, om 05:57 heeft Bob Spidell het volgende geschreven:
>
> > No wonder the shocks leak.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > On 8/31/2011 8:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> >> All -
> >>
> >> Just saw this on the forum.  Very interesting:
> >>
> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be
> >>
> >> Four things I see in this:
> >>
> >> 1) The later BJ8 suspension is clearly an advance over this earlier set
> up,
> >> as you can see the axle winding up every time he puts on power.  The
> radius
> >> rods serve to stop the windup.
> >> 2) Later in the video you see the discs start getting white hot (the car
> is
> >> racing up to 150 mph)
> >> 3) Dutch racers are really into the mechanics of it all.
> >> 4) I admire the desire to race using the stock suspension!
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >>
> >> Alan
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > *******************************************************************
> > Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
> >
> > *******************************************************************
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl
>
> Rinus Sinke
> Rijksweg Zuid 20
> 6031RL Nederweert
> The Netherlands
>
> Tel.    +31 495 632707
> Fax.    +31 495 585972
> Gsm     +31 6 531 962 10
> rinussinke at planet.nl
>
> www.healeymeetslemans.nl
> www.dhc.nu
> www.marijkesinke.nl
> www.tourecosse.nl
> www.winkelvansinke.nl
>  _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 08:30:24 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 07:30:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>

Harbor freight has a tow bar for $80.00. Has anyone used one to tow their
Healey?
If so, how did you attach it. I do have tow hook eyes and no front bumper.
Big ABFM this weekend and I don't want to rush getting my car started and
risk damage. UHaul trailers are a bit wide....
Thanks. Anyone in Portland area have a trailer I can borrow this weekend?

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep  1 09:05:21 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 10:05:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E5F9F31.6040705@justbrits.com>

<< ...UHaul trailers are a bit wide.... >>

How so, Ira ??

FWI*W, FYI, NFI, & Yada-yada; Spridgeteers use them
all the time.  Trick is to tell UHaul you need for a Jeep,
Ford & etc.!   Don't even mention "Austin-Healey" or "MG" ! !

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
   Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Sep  1 09:11:50 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 09:11:50 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Need to Ship 100
In-Reply-To: <001d01cc68ad$fecd4c80$fc67e580$@ca>
References: <CAFBXTkK90RVaFOj3A8TUj6ekdL743fsbZmWKpyu7L6O32iowXw@mail.gmail.com>
	<001d01cc68ad$fecd4c80$fc67e580$@ca>
Message-ID: <E2D20A9000D74A52A4776527B33610DF@oscar>

Clark cars of AZ  Greg Clark 928-460-0820

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 7:50 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need to Ship 100

About 8 years ago I moved a car and lots of parts  from California to
Toronto with a household moving company the trucker was from Ontario and
need to fill out his truck and make some extra fuel cash. It was cheap and
he did a great job moving the car.

Cheers 

Mark 

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Sep  1 09:45:08 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 11:45:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Flood damaged Healey
Message-ID: <4E5FA884.8090203@comcast.net>

A friend sent me a picture that was taken recently in the aftermath of 
Hurricane Irene of a BJ8 that was caught in it at a storage unit.  It is 
on the team.net forum at http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=122
I don't know how high the water got or how far the car fell, but the 
possibilities are quite sickening.
Charlie

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Sep  1 09:51:35 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 08:51:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
In-Reply-To: <4E5F9F31.6040705@justbrits.com>
References: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4E5F9F31.6040705@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W31AF021367AC3C199DA51CA4190@phx.gbl>

I've had the same problem with U-Haul trailers. They are set up for cars with
wheels spread further apart as they have no center portion on the trailer.
They use to have smaller ones but no-longer. They tried to charge me for the
trailer even though I brought it back in two hours saying I should have put a
piece of plywood or something to cover the gap. I upped my AAA towing mileage
with one phone call at the time I requested a tow and they put it on a flat
bed tow truck. They were very careful and prepared of the low clearance.
Richard Kahn

> Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 10:05:21 -0500
> From: shop at justbrits.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flat tow
>
> << ...UHaul trailers are a bit wide.... >>
>
> How so, Ira ??
>
> FWI*W, FYI, NFI, & Yada-yada; Spridgeteers use them
> all the time.  Trick is to tell UHaul you need for a Jeep,
> Ford & etc.!   Don't even mention "Austin-Healey" or "MG" ! !
>
> Ed
> 1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
> 2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
>    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Sep  1 10:06:26 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 09:06:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W608069AE15FC41B1972AEFA4190@phx.gbl>

One caution with the tow bar is that  our cars ride low. Look for one with a
bent/angled arm or lower your trailer hitch. You could damage the front body.
I saw a damaged MGA from  tow bar use. They don't have a spring action when
you stop as trailers do so you are jerking the car a bit. Just my opinion.
Others may have better experience.
Richard Kahn

> Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 07:30:24 -0700
> From: eyera3000 at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
>
> Harbor freight has a tow bar for $80.00. Has anyone used one to tow their
> Healey?
> If so, how did you attach it. I do have tow hook eyes and no front bumper.
> Big ABFM this weekend and I don't want to rush getting my car started and
> risk damage. UHaul trailers are a bit wide....
> Thanks. Anyone in Portland area have a trailer I can borrow this weekend?
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 10:09:30 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 02:09:30 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Exciting / Interesting video
In-Reply-To: <4BA78B57-8B23-4681-8A8B-674301208873@kpnplanet.nl>
References: <CAFBXTkK6Qtno1JiuJbQG4p-uT17kuJU438vZCK_xxzFwBzZs9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E5F028C.8000204@comcast.net>
	<4BA78B57-8B23-4681-8A8B-674301208873@kpnplanet.nl>
Message-ID: <10F2F3F7-8EBD-4BE8-ADE3-CEB15CD3C220@gmail.com>

Awesome stuff, Jaap & Rinus.
Tell me about how you filmed it?
There must have been a light. A camera. How did you mount them??/
Awesome work. Great video. Well done.
Thanks!
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com/
Sent from my iPhone

On 01/09/2011, at 10:31 PM, Rinus Sinke <rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl> wrote:

> All with interest in racing Healeys,
>
> The youtube video is from my racing car, AH 3000 MKI 1961, primrose  
> yellow
> with two green stripes, driven by my sun Jaap Sinke. The AH is  
> racing with the
> European FIA rules en homologation paper for the AH 3000 MK I 1961.  
> It is not
> allowed to change the suspension and thus it is stock suspension  
> with other
> bushes. You see the suspension has to do a lot of work. We often  
> change the
> springs, shockabsorbers (they do not leak) and bushes and now we can  
> se why we
> have to care for the suspension. The weight of the car is about 1050  
> kg. The
> topspeed at Le Mans of this car was last year 165 mph. When braking  
> in the
> night you see all the discs glowing  red front and rear. Look at
> www.healeymeetslemans.nl for some nice video's and photo's.
> In the youtube link you can see the car driving by Jaap Sinke at an  
> Dutch
> airfield, so it is not real racing. It is the same track as the  
> video with the
> ssuspension. If you go to youtube and fill in the name Jaap Sinke  
> Healey en of
> Rinus Sinke Healey you find some more nice video's of racing with  
> our AH
> racing car.
>
> Cheers,
> Rinus Sinke, the Netherlands
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbEc2xxykfI
>
>
> Op 1 sep 2011, om 05:57 heeft Bob Spidell het volgende geschreven:
>
>> No wonder the shocks leak.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 8/31/2011 8:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>> All -
>>>
>>> Just saw this on the forum.  Very interesting:
>>>
>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be
>>>
>>> Four things I see in this:
>>>
>>> 1) The later BJ8 suspension is clearly an advance over this  
>>> earlier set
> up,
>>> as you can see the axle winding up every time he puts on power.  The
> radius
>>> rods serve to stop the windup.
>>> 2) Later in the video you see the discs start getting white hot  
>>> (the car
> is
>>> racing up to 150 mph)
>>> 3) Dutch racers are really into the mechanics of it all.
>>> 4) I admire the desire to race using the stock suspension!
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> *******************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>>
>> *******************************************************************
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl
>
> Rinus Sinke
> Rijksweg Zuid 20
> 6031RL Nederweert
> The Netherlands
>
> Tel.    +31 495 632707
> Fax.    +31 495 585972
> Gsm    +31 6 531 962 10
> rinussinke at planet.nl
>
> www.healeymeetslemans.nl
> www.dhc.nu
> www.marijkesinke.nl
> www.tourecosse.nl
> www.winkelvansinke.nl
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  1 10:33:53 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 09:33:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Flat Tow
Message-ID: <1314894833.32549.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've towed Healeys on trailers rented from Pensky. I think they have 2 sizes.
Best
JK

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 10:50:00 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 09:50:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AA196E89-8301-49E1-9A2D-DA9E951B21DB@gmail.com>

You have spent how many hours and how many $ on your resto and you considering
towing it with a Harbor Freight made in China of unknown quality tow bar?
Are you nuts?

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 1, 2011, at 7:30, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Harbor freight has a tow bar for $80.00. Has anyone used one to tow their
> Healey?
> If so, how did you attach it. I do have tow hook eyes and no front bumper.
> Big ABFM this weekend and I don't want to rush getting my car started and
> risk damage. UHaul trailers are a bit wide....
> Thanks. Anyone in Portland area have a trailer I can borrow this weekend?
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From mslechta at chartermi.net  Thu Sep  1 11:04:25 2011
From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 12:04:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
In-Reply-To: <4E5F9F31.6040705@justbrits.com>
References: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E5F9F31.6040705@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <3C0F7CB258FC4E6DA7D25DDB51C57365@MikesLaptop>

Ed ~ Didn't know that.  Thanks for the info.        Mad Mike
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Shop at " Just Brits "
  To: Ahealey help
  Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 10:05 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flat tow


  << ...UHaul trailers are a bit wide.... >>

  How so, Ira ??

  FWI*W, FYI, NFI, & Yada-yada; Spridgeteers use them
  all the time.  Trick is to tell UHaul you need for a Jeep,
  Ford & etc.!   Don't even mention "Austin-Healey" or "MG" ! !

  Ed
  1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
  2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
     Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
  _______________________________________________
  Healeys at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  1 11:49:57 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 10:49:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Trailers
Message-ID: <1314899397.57422.yint-ygo-j2me@web130213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

BTW, 20+ years ago l was given a homebuilt horse trailer which I cut the top of and towed many LBC's with no problem, despite the fact it has no springs or brakes! Used, commercially built horse trailers w/surge brakes and springs in need of some welding repair can be found cheep and sometimes free on craigslist. While you're making the welding repair add a 2 or 3 foot extension to the rear.
Best
JK

From mslechta at chartermi.net  Thu Sep  1 12:18:11 2011
From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 13:18:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
In-Reply-To: <AA196E89-8301-49E1-9A2D-DA9E951B21DB@gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
	<AA196E89-8301-49E1-9A2D-DA9E951B21DB@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <61B7BB3F5D4B4FE488FBA742679BE714@MikesLaptop>

I agree.        Mad Mike
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Richard Ewald
  To: i erbs
  Cc: Ahealey help
  Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 11:50 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flat tow


  You have spent how many hours and how many $ on your resto and you
considering
  towing it with a Harbor Freight made in China of unknown quality tow bar?
  Are you nuts?

  Sent from my iPhone

  On Sep 1, 2011, at 7:30, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

  > Harbor freight has a tow bar for $80.00. Has anyone used one to tow their
  > Healey?
  > If so, how did you attach it. I do have tow hook eyes and no front
bumper.
  > Big ABFM this weekend and I don't want to rush getting my car started and
  > risk damage. UHaul trailers are a bit wide....
  > Thanks. Anyone in Portland area have a trailer I can borrow this weekend?
  > _______________________________________________
  > Healeys at autox.team.net
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe/Manage:
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com
  _______________________________________________
  Healeys at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 12:27:58 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 20:27:58 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Exciting / Interesting video
In-Reply-To: <10F2F3F7-8EBD-4BE8-ADE3-CEB15CD3C220@gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkK6Qtno1JiuJbQG4p-uT17kuJU438vZCK_xxzFwBzZs9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E5F028C.8000204@comcast.net>
	<4BA78B57-8B23-4681-8A8B-674301208873@kpnplanet.nl>
	<10F2F3F7-8EBD-4BE8-ADE3-CEB15CD3C220@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmAA8Za7wGU4YStRRvZKTCeXc9XZy7L+hSvy1KYb8Wzduw@mail.gmail.com>

My boys were spellbounded by the movies (Domonkos 4yrs, Benedek 2 yrs old).
Just like me.
Many thanks!

That yellow flag-oil puddle thing was quite scary even through the camera. I
bet even worse in the car.

Gergo

2011/9/1 Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>

> Awesome stuff, Jaap & Rinus.
> Tell me about how you filmed it?
> There must have been a light. A camera. How did you mount them??/
> Awesome work. Great video. Well done.
> Thanks!
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com/
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On 01/09/2011, at 10:31 PM, Rinus Sinke <rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl> wrote:
>
>  All with interest in racing Healeys,
>>
>> The youtube video is from my racing car, AH 3000 MKI 1961, primrose yellow
>> with two green stripes, driven by my sun Jaap Sinke. The AH is racing with
>> the
>> European FIA rules en homologation paper for the AH 3000 MK I 1961. It is
>> not
>> allowed to change the suspension and thus it is stock suspension with
>> other
>> bushes. You see the suspension has to do a lot of work. We often change
>> the
>> springs, shockabsorbers (they do not leak) and bushes and now we can se
>> why we
>> have to care for the suspension. The weight of the car is about 1050 kg.
>> The
>> topspeed at Le Mans of this car was last year 165 mph. When braking in the
>> night you see all the discs glowing  red front and rear. Look at
>> www.healeymeetslemans.nl for some nice video's and photo's.
>> In the youtube link you can see the car driving by Jaap Sinke at an Dutch
>> airfield, so it is not real racing. It is the same track as the video with
>> the
>> ssuspension. If you go to youtube and fill in the name Jaap Sinke Healey
>> en of
>> Rinus Sinke Healey you find some more nice video's of racing with our AH
>> racing car.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Rinus Sinke, the Netherlands
>>
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=DbEc2xxykfI<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbEc2xxykfI>
>>
>>
>> Op 1 sep 2011, om 05:57 heeft Bob Spidell het volgende geschreven:
>>
>>  No wonder the shocks leak.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/31/2011 8:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>>
>>>> All -
>>>>
>>>> Just saw this on the forum.  Very interesting:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be>
>>>>
>>>> Four things I see in this:
>>>>
>>>> 1) The later BJ8 suspension is clearly an advance over this earlier set
>>>>
>>> up,
>>
>>> as you can see the axle winding up every time he puts on power.  The
>>>>
>>> radius
>>
>>> rods serve to stop the windup.
>>>> 2) Later in the video you see the discs start getting white hot (the car
>>>>
>>> is
>>
>>> racing up to 150 mph)
>>>> 3) Dutch racers are really into the mechanics of it all.
>>>> 4) I admire the desire to race using the stock suspension!
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> ***********************************************************************
>>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>>>
>>> ***********************************************************************
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/rinussinke@**kpnplanet.nl<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl>
>>
>> Rinus Sinke
>> Rijksweg Zuid 20
>> 6031RL Nederweert
>> The Netherlands
>>
>> Tel.    +31 495 632707
>> Fax.    +31 495 585972
>> Gsm    +31 6 531 962 10
>> rinussinke at planet.nl
>>
>> www.healeymeetslemans.nl
>> www.dhc.nu
>> www.marijkesinke.nl
>> www.tourecosse.nl
>> www.winkelvansinke.nl
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/austin.healey@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  1 12:10:22 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 11:10:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission-Overdrive locked up
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110829184940.02083d30@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110829184940.02083d30@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110901110903.020b1da8@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Many thanks to those that replied with possible solutions to the problem.

I replaced the clutch springs and that cured the lock up.

John

At 06:55 PM 8/29/2011 -0700, you wrote:
>After bolting the trans and OD together the OD will not move and 
>when the transmission is in gear it will not move either. All I 
>could garner from the archives is that the OD brake ring or clutch 
>assembly might be locked due to weak clutch springs. They were a 
>little shorter than spec.
>
>Do I need to replace the set of 8 springs or is there another problem?
>
>Thanks,
>John Spaur
>'62 BT7

From jhoffmannsafety at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 13:13:46 2011
From: jhoffmannsafety at gmail.com (john hoffmann)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 15:13:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey racing video
Message-ID: <CAJitzV2GfB+tgYwy+H-MkO930zhTrbXhcBo33RQQuZtDpkxvHg@mail.gmail.com>

Alan's comment about "white hot" seems to be based on the video. The colors
in videos at high temperatures are not very true. I do not believe the
rotors would get to white hot since that is about 2200F! More likely red
which would be closer to 1300-1400F. Has anyone actually measured the temp
either directly or indirectly?
John

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Sep  1 14:40:52 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 16:40:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters
Message-ID: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>

Hate to admit this, but it's been over two years since I've changed the oil 
in the Healey, just before I removed the fender for repair, and the car's 
been sitting since. Question is, what are the Fram, Purolator, etc. numbers 
for a spin-on oil filter that will fit a Smitty's spin-on conversion 
(probably the same as other spin-on conversions) so I can go buy a filter tomorrow 
to do the oil change on Saturday. (and don't give me any grief about 
concours-original. Smitty's name on the part gives me an indulgence for the oil 
filter exchange.)

Thanks in advance,
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Sep  1 14:45:00 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 16:45:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Shipping to Canada
Message-ID: <60893.2ff8111b.3b9148cb@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/1/11 7:04:27 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


>
> All -
>
> I am looking to ship my 100 from California to Canada.  The car is in
> decent
> running shape, but I'm not too worried about white glove service (i.e.
> enclosed container or anything).  I just need efficient and professional
> service.
>
> It would be from San Francisco bay area to Toronto.
>
> Does anyone have a good suggestion on where I can find a decent company to
> do this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
>
I think the challenge isn't going to be the transportation itself but the
customs paperwork on the automobile. Check into that in advance. If it looks
complicated, you may want to engage a shipper who can act as a customs
broker, like Cosdell.

Gary

From frankyow_99 at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  1 15:13:56 2011
From: frankyow_99 at yahoo.com (frank yow)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 14:13:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] problem with BT7
Message-ID: <1314911636.56236.YahooMailNeo@web161422.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hi Healeyphiles, I have a problem, seek advice. Have a miss developing after running 35 to 40 minutes, Have had distributor rebuilt, new plugs good (epoxy) rotor, have swapped several coils to no effect, I have an SU and an electronic pump, switchable, no improvement have inline filter, shows nothing, nothing seems to improve situation, carb floats OK, have tried all I can think of, any advice? Frank Yow, BT7 (61)

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Sep  1 15:40:57 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 17:40:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters
In-Reply-To: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
References: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002b01cc68ef$d5c6f4c0$8154de40$@rr.com>

For what it's worth, here is my record of spin-on oil filter use in my BJ8
over the years.  I have a Moss spin-on adapter from the mid-1980s that holds
the filter in the same orientation as the original filter canister, not at
right angles to the block as more recent adapters do.  For large diameter
filters (such as Wix 51515), the clearance to the RH foot well panel is
close enough that it makes getting a wrench on it to remove difficult.  I've
used smaller diameter filters to solve that problem.  All of them obviously
have the same thread regardless of physical size of the filter and all have
worked fine for me.  I generally change my oil and filter every 3000 miles,
but at least once a year.

Wix, p/n 51515  
Wix, p/n 51068
Car Quest, p/n 85068
Deutsch, p/n D539
Deutsch, p/n D430
STP, p/n S16
NAPA, p/n 1085
Purolator, p/n L20081
NAPA Silver, p/n 21521
NAPA Gold, p/n 1515

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 4:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters

Hate to admit this, but it's been over two years since I've changed the oil 
in the Healey, just before I removed the fender for repair, and the car's 
been sitting since. Question is, what are the Fram, Purolator, etc. numbers 
for a spin-on oil filter that will fit a Smitty's spin-on conversion 
(probably the same as other spin-on conversions) so I can go buy a filter
tomorrow 
to do the oil change on Saturday. (and don't give me any grief about 
concours-original. Smitty's name on the part gives me an indulgence for the
oil 
filter exchange.)

Thanks in advance,
Gary

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 16:00:36 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 06:00:36 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] problem with BT7
In-Reply-To: <1314911636.56236.YahooMailNeo@web161422.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1314911636.56236.YahooMailNeo@web161422.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+bxiEnaVjiY1gwn8566XBJ-FYKEhGPuBH8LdmnqdHrMw@mail.gmail.com>

Are you running suppression core wires out of your lucas distributor?

On 9/2/11, frank yow <frankyow_99 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi Healeyphiles, I have a problem, seek advice. Have a miss developing after
> running 35 to 40 minutes, Have had distributor rebuilt, new plugs good
> (epoxy) rotor, have swapped several coils to no effect, I have an SU and an
> electronic pump, switchable, no improvement have inline filter, shows
> nothing, nothing seems to improve situation, carb floats OK, have tried all
> I can think of, any advice? Frank Yow, BT7 (61)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 16:01:51 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 06:01:51 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters
In-Reply-To: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
References: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+UG6OA0hpAVnyUgVk1LCm3b-bp1bnbUpCnJ=s45pUdqw@mail.gmail.com>

Fram equivalent PH43

On 9/2/11, Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
> Hate to admit this, but it's been over two years since I've changed the oil
> in the Healey, just before I removed the fender for repair, and the car's
> been sitting since. Question is, what are the Fram, Purolator, etc. numbers
> for a spin-on oil filter that will fit a Smitty's spin-on conversion
> (probably the same as other spin-on conversions) so I can go buy a filter
> tomorrow
> to do the oil change on Saturday. (and don't give me any grief about
> concours-original. Smitty's name on the part gives me an indulgence for the
> oil
> filter exchange.)
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep  1 16:03:56 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 22:03:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters
In-Reply-To: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <702551938.89675.1314914636974.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have a conversion from Moss. The 'default' filter is a Fram PH3600; I use the Wix equivalent: 51516 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary at aol.com 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2011 1:40:52 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters 

Hate to admit this, but it's been over two years since I've changed the oil 
in the Healey, just before I removed the fender for repair, and the car's 
been sitting since. Question is, what are the Fram, Purolator, etc. numbers 
for a spin-on oil filter that will fit a Smitty's spin-on conversion 
(probably the same as other spin-on conversions) so I can go buy a filter tomorrow 
to do the oil change on Saturday. (and don't give me any grief about 
concours-original. Smitty's name on the part gives me an indulgence for the oil 
filter exchange.) 

Thanks in advance, 
Gary 
_______________________________________________ 
Healeys at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep  1 16:06:35 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 22:06:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] problem with BT7
In-Reply-To: <1314911636.56236.YahooMailNeo@web161422.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1120459902.89784.1314914795136.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Had similar problem caused by aftermarket distributor cap. Put in a Lucas and no problems since. 

Also, could be plug wires (esp. if you've got a 'stock' distributor cap and you're not using stranded wire plug wires). 

Could also be the little, fragile ground strap for the points inside the distributor. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "frank yow" <frankyow_99 at yahoo.com> 
To: "healey" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2011 2:13:56 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] problem with BT7 

Hi Healeyphiles, I have a problem, seek advice. Have a miss developing after running 35 to 40 minutes, Have had distributor rebuilt, new plugs good (epoxy) rotor, have swapped several coils to no effect, I have an SU and an electronic pump, switchable, no improvement have inline filter, shows nothing, nothing seems to improve situation, carb floats OK, have tried all I can think of, any advice? Frank Yow, BT7 (61) 
_______________________________________________ 
Healeys at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Sep  1 16:20:47 2011
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 18:20:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
Message-ID: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>

Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on e-bay
when doing a "Austin Healey" search?

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 16:56:06 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 15:56:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] More updates
Message-ID: <CABXhz89PQSV=yvHziT_eOVD6g0j90nXxVjaD7OKA=qH1pu8ymA@mail.gmail.com>

Carbs in, linkage fabricated and in,
Friend came by and labled dash wires for me, should be hooked up tonight.
New studs in exhaust head pipe flannel. Lights wired. Long battery cable
installed. Tomorrow my friend Tom Monaco, cones back to double check my
work, and we see if it will start. Oh I need to install radiator and
fluids....
Will let you know.

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 16:58:51 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 15:58:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Flat tow
In-Reply-To: <61B7BB3F5D4B4FE488FBA742679BE714@MikesLaptop>
References: <CABXhz8-PTa=0XTouHYqUqsQT3erRi5zdyC-ydo+K38ZZux1fPA@mail.gmail.com>
	<AA196E89-8301-49E1-9A2D-DA9E951B21DB@gmail.com>
	<61B7BB3F5D4B4FE488FBA742679BE714@MikesLaptop>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88_k7aaihTbGMpZpjAg3zKhmtfiM8Rwvr773GhiVj2LJw@mail.gmail.com>

Found a tilt trailer to rent for $30.00 a day..... plan b if she don't run
on her own...

On Sep 1, 2011 11:18 AM, "Mike Slechta" <mslechta at chartermi.net> wrote:
> I agree. Mad Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard Ewald
> To: i erbs
> Cc: Ahealey help
> Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 11:50 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flat tow
>
>
> You have spent how many hours and how many $ on your resto and you
considering
> towing it with a Harbor Freight made in China of unknown quality tow bar?
> Are you nuts?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 1, 2011, at 7:30, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Harbor freight has a tow bar for $80.00. Has anyone used one to tow
their
> > Healey?
> > If so, how did you attach it. I do have tow hook eyes and no front
bumper.
> > Big ABFM this weekend and I don't want to rush getting my car started
and
> > risk damage. UHaul trailers are a bit wide....
> > Thanks. Anyone in Portland area have a trailer I can borrow this
weekend?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 17:07:28 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 07:07:28 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLySjL+0z86SKLAzxafyHk1=bzvuTzLoJ-4sivrn386JA@mail.gmail.com>

I get them for my Austin Atlantic too, can you imagine?

Just put in advanced search terms and have it remove listings for a
common but off pitch modern make like "Hyundai" and voila!!!  Seat
Covers begone!



On 9/2/11, S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on
> e-bay
> when doing a "Austin Healey" search?
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From edic at tampabay.rr.com  Thu Sep  1 17:16:01 2011
From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 19:16:01 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: [Healeys] problem with BT7
References: <1314911636.56236.YahooMailNeo@web161422.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E601231.000021.08880@MEL-HP>

Frank, are you using electronic ignition like Pertronix?

Mel Brunet




-------Original Message-------

From: frank yow
Date: 9/1/2011 5:28:26 PM
To: healey
Subject: [Healeys] problem with BT7

Hi Healeyphiles, I have a problem, seek advice. Have a miss developing after
running 35 to 40 minutes, Have had distributor rebuilt, new plugs good
(epoxy) rotor, have swapped several coils to no effect, I have an SU and an
electronic pump, switchable, no improvement have inline filter, shows
nothing, nothing seems to improve situation, carb floats OK, have tried all
I can think of, any advice? Frank Yow, BT7 (61)
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edic at tampabay.rr.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of grad.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 05_puppy_sticky_note_en.gif]

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Thu Sep  1 17:21:40 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 16:21:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Paper gaskets
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED62DF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

Have always dressed my paper gaskets with permatex

Is this necessary or should the gasket be used "dry"

Jonas

----- Original Message -----
From: S and T Miller [mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 03:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] e-bay

Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on
e-bay
when doing a "Austin Healey" search?

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Sep  1 18:09:42 2011
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 20:09:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E601EC6.1050609@earthlink.net>

You can use the minus sign to indicate words that you don't want:

	healey -cover -antenna

I usually put quotes around healey - seems if I don't, I'll get related 
items, not just those with healey in the title.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 09/01/2011 06:20 PM, S and T Miller wrote:
> Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on e-bay
> when doing a "Austin Healey" search?
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Sep  1 18:20:52 2011
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 00:20:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Flood damaged Healey
In-Reply-To: <4E5FA884.8090203@comcast.net>
References: <4E5FA884.8090203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY166-W45DCA9724A301C56013C66A5180@phx.gbl>

I wonder what they want for it. I'm currently restoring a TR6 that was drowned
in hurricane Wilma. If you figure you are going to have to do a frame up rest
anyway you can build a very good car.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 11:45:08 -0400
> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Flood damaged Healey
>
> A friend sent me a picture that was taken recently in the aftermath of
> Hurricane Irene of a BJ8 that was caught in it at a storage unit.  It is
> on the team.net forum at
http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=122
> I don't know how high the water got or how far the car fell, but the
> possibilities are quite sickening.
> Charlie
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Sep  1 18:38:47 2011
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 00:38:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
In-Reply-To: <4E601EC6.1050609@earthlink.net>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>,
	<4E601EC6.1050609@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY166-W16E69E3F8A01BA35A8B321A5180@phx.gbl>

I think we should start an initiative to inform such vendors that there is a
large number of potential customers who will NEVER buy ANYTHING from anyone
who spams eBay that way. On the other hand Most of us probably don't want any
of their crap anyway.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 20:09:42 -0400
> From: rchaskell at earthlink.net
> To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] e-bay
>
> You can use the minus sign to indicate words that you don't want:
>
> 	healey -cover -antenna
>
> I usually put quotes around healey - seems if I don't, I'll get related
> items, not just those with healey in the title.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 09/01/2011 06:20 PM, S and T Miller wrote:
> > Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on
e-bay
> > when doing a "Austin Healey" search?
> >
> > The Millers
> > "British Car Nuts"
> >
> > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> > drive."
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 18:50:44 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 08:50:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Paper gaskets
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED62DF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED62DF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ+ieoRr5F=tXXBgwzanopAaHuaTFTEOsqGkV1Qg+hY2w@mail.gmail.com>

Jonas -

Generally speaking for thin paper gaskets that fit between larger flat
surfaces (like the rear axle hub gasket) should be, in fact, mounted without
Permatex.

The whole idea of the paper gaskets is they typically only start leaking
when the pieces come apart.  This is supposed to warn you to tighten things
up again.  If you put Permatex on there, it will mask your early warning
sign that your bits (like hubs) are coming loose.

If find that proper sized (ie. THIN) paper gaskets rarely if ever leak.

Alan



On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 7:21 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:

> Have always dressed my paper gaskets with permatex
>
> Is this necessary or should the gasket be used "dry"
>
> Jonas
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: S and T Miller [mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 03:20 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
>
> Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on
> e-bay
> when doing a "Austin Healey" search?
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 18:52:26 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 08:52:26 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Paper gaskets
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJ+ieoRr5F=tXXBgwzanopAaHuaTFTEOsqGkV1Qg+hY2w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED62DF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<CAFBXTkJ+ieoRr5F=tXXBgwzanopAaHuaTFTEOsqGkV1Qg+hY2w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ2YiqvoGeC=tNxr8BK8yKTDtTxhfXeW73mFG=b8Z3Axg@mail.gmail.com>

I should put a caveat to that - for side shifter gearboxes, you should
definitely permatex the gaskets.  Those paper gaskets are quite thin and
prone to leaking.  I would not, however, do it on the diff pumpkin.
 Again... it will only leak if the pumpkin is coming loose.

On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 8:50 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Jonas -
>
> Generally speaking for thin paper gaskets that fit between larger flat
> surfaces (like the rear axle hub gasket) should be, in fact, mounted without
> Permatex.
>
> The whole idea of the paper gaskets is they typically only start leaking
> when the pieces come apart.  This is supposed to warn you to tighten things
> up again.  If you put Permatex on there, it will mask your early warning
> sign that your bits (like hubs) are coming loose.
>
> If find that proper sized (ie. THIN) paper gaskets rarely if ever leak.
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 7:21 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
>
>> Have always dressed my paper gaskets with permatex
>>
>> Is this necessary or should the gasket be used "dry"
>>
>> Jonas
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: S and T Miller [mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com]
>> Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 03:20 PM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
>>
>> Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on
>> e-bay
>> when doing a "Austin Healey" search?
>>
>> The Millers
>> "British Car Nuts"
>>
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>> drive."
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 18:58:28 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 20:58:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters
In-Reply-To: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
References: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B555RWw=MNaH=eaP56r3C_VZ+0FNAezhTgZwr1epb2vkw@mail.gmail.com>

Gary--

The K &N number is 2009--I believe it crosses to a Ford filter.  BTW I am
paddocked next to Butch Gilbert here at Lime Rock and I will be sure to tell
him of the oil change interval that you observe.

Best--Michael Oritt

----------------------------
On Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 4:40 PM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:

> Hate to admit this, but it's been over two years since I've changed the oil
> in the Healey, just before I removed the fender for repair, and the car's
> been sitting since. Question is, what are the Fram, Purolator, etc. numbers
> for a spin-on oil filter that will fit a Smitty's spin-on conversion
> (probably the same as other spin-on conversions) so I can go buy a filter
> tomorrow
> to do the oil change on Saturday. (and don't give me any grief about
> concours-original. Smitty's name on the part gives me an indulgence for the
> oil
> filter exchange.)
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From mbran89793 at aol.com  Thu Sep  1 19:13:47 2011
From: mbran89793 at aol.com (Marion S. Brantley, Jr.)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 21:13:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters
In-Reply-To: <702551938.89675.1314914636974.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <702551938.89675.1314914636974.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CE3724B3393706-1DA8-2A27E@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Gary-
I am currently using a Bosch 3402 filter. Another Bosch # is 72137 and Baldwin
#B243. These are all great spin on filters.



 Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate




-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Editorgary <Editorgary at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 1, 2011 6:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters


I have a conversion from Moss. The 'default' filter is a Fram PH3600; I use
the
Wix equivalent: 51516

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary at aol.com
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2011 1:40:52 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters

Hate to admit this, but it's been over two years since I've changed the oil
in the Healey, just before I removed the fender for repair, and the car's
been sitting since. Question is, what are the Fram, Purolator, etc. numbers
for a spin-on oil filter that will fit a Smitty's spin-on conversion
(probably the same as other spin-on conversions) so I can go buy a filter
tomorrow
to do the oil change on Saturday. (and don't give me any grief about
concours-original. Smitty's name on the part gives me an indulgence for the
oil
filter exchange.)

Thanks in advance,
Gary
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net

_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Thu Sep  1 19:17:49 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 21:17:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Flood damaged Healey
Message-ID: <3F0F436A2708415E98715F1C706B12DA@9535DEE118EC44B>

Horrible yet striking photo.

Years ago Rick Regan and I picked up a Healey that had been caught in the
flooding of the Susquehanna River in Pennsylvania.  The brown floodwaters had
been up to the door handles.

It was astonishing how the silt and sand had gotten in absolutely EVERYWHERE.
Frame, engine, transmission, O/D, axle, bearings, even into the foam behind
the trim panels. Places you couldn't imagine sand and dirt could go.  And even
after weeks of laborious cleaning, somehow the waterline mark (bathtub ring ?)
never really completely disappeared.  It was almost etched into the vinyl.

Peter

From jkrich at gvtc.com  Thu Sep  1 19:22:53 2011
From: jkrich at gvtc.com (Jim & Karen Richmond)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 20:22:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Problem with BT7
Message-ID: <96FE7F386C634683A2765B6C7ED8E475@OwnerPC>

Frank

Had a similar miss problem with my BN1.  Tried coils, caps, plugs with no
solution.  A fellow club member asked me how old were my plug wires. Old was
the answer.

Changed wires.  Problem solved.  Car has run without a miss for over two
thousand miles.

Jim Richmond
BN1
AN5
South Texas AHC

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 19:30:40 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 21:30:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paper gaskets
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJ2YiqvoGeC=tNxr8BK8yKTDtTxhfXeW73mFG=b8Z3Axg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED62DF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<CAFBXTkJ+ieoRr5F=tXXBgwzanopAaHuaTFTEOsqGkV1Qg+hY2w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJ2YiqvoGeC=tNxr8BK8yKTDtTxhfXeW73mFG=b8Z3Axg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7JF7TuXaCsM=oR-gU6a42DigFWgkzbYq0zD9S5WbGwvg@mail.gmail.com>

I soak large and fragile paper gaskets, such as those for differentials, in
a pan of water for a minute or so prior to installation which makes them
much more pliable and less likely to tear during installation.

Best--Michael Oritt
On Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 8:52 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> I should put a caveat to that - for side shifter gearboxes, you should
> definitely permatex the gaskets.  Those paper gaskets are quite thin and
> prone to leaking.  I would not, however, do it on the diff pumpkin.
>  Again... it will only leak if the pumpkin is coming loose.
>
> On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 8:50 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Jonas -
> >
> > Generally speaking for thin paper gaskets that fit between larger flat
> > surfaces (like the rear axle hub gasket) should be, in fact, mounted
> without
> > Permatex.
> >
> > The whole idea of the paper gaskets is they typically only start leaking
> > when the pieces come apart.  This is supposed to warn you to tighten
> things
> > up again.  If you put Permatex on there, it will mask your early warning
> > sign that your bits (like hubs) are coming loose.
> >
> > If find that proper sized (ie. THIN) paper gaskets rarely if ever leak.
> >
> > Alan
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 7:21 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Have always dressed my paper gaskets with permatex
> >>
> >> Is this necessary or should the gasket be used "dry"
> >>
> >> Jonas
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: S and T Miller [mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com]
> >> Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 03:20 PM
> >> To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >> Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
> >>
> >> Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on
> >> e-bay
> >> when doing a "Austin Healey" search?
> >>
> >> The Millers
> >> "British Car Nuts"
> >>
> >> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> >> drive."
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Sep  1 19:41:27 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 21:41:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
In-Reply-To: <BAY166-W16E69E3F8A01BA35A8B321A5180@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>,
	<4E601EC6.1050609@earthlink.net>
	<BAY166-W16E69E3F8A01BA35A8B321A5180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000101cc6911$6edd2910$4c977b30$@verizon.net>

I just no longer bother with eBay when I want something. Too much crap on
there. Too many duplicate listings. The senders are crazy when they have 25
or 30 of the same items and list each individually instead of one listing
stating the quantity with a buy it now price or maybe they just want
numbskulls to get in bidding wars. I think that eBay lost a lot of its
cachet when they started to have eBay "stores". Only a masochist has the
time to sift through the listings. I would rather be out driving or in my
garage using parts from our well known vendors. eBay doesn't care anyway
considering how much they charge just to list an item.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 8:39 PM
To: rchaskell at earthlink.net; stmiller96 at hotmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] e-bay

I think we should start an initiative to inform such vendors that there is a
large number of potential customers who will NEVER buy ANYTHING from anyone
who spams eBay that way. On the other hand Most of us probably don't want
any of their crap anyway.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 20:09:42 -0400
> From: rchaskell at earthlink.net
> To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] e-bay
>
> You can use the minus sign to indicate words that you don't want:
>
> 	healey -cover -antenna
>
> I usually put quotes around healey - seems if I don't, I'll get
> related items, not just those with healey in the title.
>
> Cheers,

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 20:44:59 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 10:44:59 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Problem with BT7
In-Reply-To: <96FE7F386C634683A2765B6C7ED8E475@OwnerPC>
References: <96FE7F386C634683A2765B6C7ED8E475@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLcoNv-427vpxDBW-XMDGJHy1rE-bVW6iwhf=yoEvcAmg@mail.gmail.com>

Yep, for a miss, I always start with the wires.

On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 9:22 AM, Jim & Karen Richmond <jkrich at gvtc.com>wrote:

> Frank
>
> Had a similar miss problem with my BN1.  Tried coils, caps, plugs with no
> solution.  A fellow club member asked me how old were my plug wires. Old
> was
> the answer.
>
> Changed wires.  Problem solved.  Car has run without a miss for over two
> thousand miles.
>
> Jim Richmond
> BN1
> AN5
> South Texas AHC
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep  1 21:22:51 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 20:22:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Paper gaskets
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED62DF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED62DF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <4E604C0B.5030801@comcast.net>

Yes.





OK, no more funny stuff.  My rule of thumb: two flat, machined surfaces dry is OK; otherwise, a little goop can't hurt.

Bob


On 9/1/2011 4:21 PM, Jonas Payne wrote:
> Have always dressed my paper gaskets with permatex
>
> Is this necessary or should the gasket be used "dry"
>
> Jonas
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Sep  1 21:42:05 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 20:42:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
In-Reply-To: <000101cc6911$6edd2910$4c977b30$@verizon.net>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>,
	<4E601EC6.1050609@earthlink.net>
	<BAY166-W16E69E3F8A01BA35A8B321A5180@phx.gbl>
	<000101cc6911$6edd2910$4c977b30$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <DB5B2C8A-399A-4298-A39A-2DBBCD25BB12@cox.net>

I just use the advanced search options. It's no problem, and I can instantly
see only what I need.

I bet you'd spend more time shopping on the other healey sites and not get
nearly the bargains--if you could even find close to the selection afforded by
eBay.

Seriously, name one other website that even come close to selection of
everything in the world!

Wilko.



On Sep 1, 2011, at 6:41 PM, John Sims wrote:

> I just no longer bother with eBay when I want something. Too much crap on
> there. Too many duplicate listings. The senders are crazy when they have 25
> or 30 of the same items and list each individually instead of one listing
> stating the quantity with a buy it now price or maybe they just want
> numbskulls to get in bidding wars. I think that eBay lost a lot of its
> cachet when they started to have eBay "stores". Only a masochist has the
> time to sift through the listings. I would rather be out driving or in my
> garage using parts from our well known vendors. eBay doesn't care anyway
> considering how much they charge just to list an item.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> ----

From ktee20 at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 23:57:31 2011
From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 15:57:31 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] e-bay
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-W36BB514DD692880026D957D4190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAJBOvRQ0oW8gH6aZ9SYQ+Cj8B4ub+Bgx6ZY9rwak2vkU46iOow@mail.gmail.com>

Since the Aussie $ overtook the greenback these dipsticks are targeting
" OUR "  Healey OZ site lucky if we had 100 items listed all Healey specific
 NOW page after page of crap from mostly US sites

Though I admit I bought a pair of Austin Healey earrings for the misses for
Xmas can't wait
for her excitement  ! !

Fellows stop mucking around & get your $ back where it belongs

Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL  OZ

On 2 September 2011 08:20, S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Holy @#*&!  How many $%#@*&* car covers and seat covers can be listed on
> e-bay
> when doing a "Austin Healey" search?
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ktee20 at gmail.com

From twillig at ruda.de  Fri Sep  2 01:09:30 2011
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 09:09:30 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Valve clatter when cold on 100
Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1564@dw01.ruda.local>

Since the complete rebuild of my engine I encounter a valve clatter
every time when starting the engine from cold. To be more precise,
"cold" means when the engine has stood overnight and has reached ambient
temperatures. After 30 seconds the clatter stops. It sounds like valve
clatter from one valve only. Any suggestions?



Regards





Thomas Willig



1956 BN2

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep  2 02:08:49 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 16:08:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Valve clatter when cold on 100
In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1564@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <AcxpP0Ifh0B+DgrSRZyzbTxNjcKDVQ==>
	<4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1564@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJzJmcHwObYJXpjatq3pKLZmSqbnhr3GtPoCbED-iSSKg@mail.gmail.com>

Thomas -

Did you put on a spin on oil filter adaptor?  If so, you should use a filter
that has an anti-drainback valve.  Fram PH43 is a number I know offhand.

Sounds to me the oil galleries are running dry because the filter doesn't
have a drainback valve on it.

Try that.

Alan

On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 3:09 PM, Thomas Willig <twillig at ruda.de> wrote:

> Since the complete rebuild of my engine I encounter a valve clatter
> every time when starting the engine from cold. To be more precise,
> "cold" means when the engine has stood overnight and has reached ambient
> temperatures. After 30 seconds the clatter stops. It sounds like valve
> clatter from one valve only. Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Regards
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
>
>
> 1956 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From twillig at ruda.de  Fri Sep  2 02:21:45 2011
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 10:21:45 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Valve clatter when cold on 100
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJzJmcHwObYJXpjatq3pKLZmSqbnhr3GtPoCbED-iSSKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AcxpP0Ifh0B+DgrSRZyzbTxNjcKDVQ==><4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1564@dw01.ruda.local>
	<CAFBXTkJzJmcHwObYJXpjatq3pKLZmSqbnhr3GtPoCbED-iSSKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1567@dw01.ruda.local>

Hi Alan,



no, I am a traditionalist and use the original filter. I will check if
the ball in the Tecalemit housing seats properly. Nevertheless a very
interesting hint.....many thanks





Regards





Thomas



Von: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Freitag, 2. September 2011 10:09
An: Thomas Willig
Cc: Healey List
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Valve clatter when cold on 100



Thomas -



Did you put on a spin on oil filter adaptor?  If so, you should use a
filter that has an anti-drainback valve.  Fram PH43 is a number I know
offhand.



Sounds to me the oil galleries are running dry because the filter
doesn't have a drainback valve on it.



Try that.



Alan

On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 3:09 PM, Thomas Willig <twillig at ruda.de> wrote:

Since the complete rebuild of my engine I encounter a valve clatter
every time when starting the engine from cold. To be more precise,
"cold" means when the engine has stood overnight and has reached ambient
temperatures. After 30 seconds the clatter stops. It sounds like valve
clatter from one valve only. Any suggestions?



Regards





Thomas Willig



1956 BN2
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep  2 04:18:16 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 18:18:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Valve clatter when cold on 100
In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1567@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1564@dw01.ruda.local>
	<CAFBXTkJzJmcHwObYJXpjatq3pKLZmSqbnhr3GtPoCbED-iSSKg@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1567@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLjCTkVY1R5fA0TT_JEd7ODG_ieOYAc1TgxuWur7TOcNw@mail.gmail.com>

Also make sure your rocker oil feed banjo is snug and properly seated.
 The banjo is quite close to the nut and washer of the rocker pedestal

Alan

On 9/2/11, Thomas Willig <twillig at ruda.de> wrote:
> Hi Alan,
>
>
>
> no, I am a traditionalist and use the original filter. I will check if
> the ball in the Tecalemit housing seats properly. Nevertheless a very
> interesting hint.....many thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas
>
>
>
> Von: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Freitag, 2. September 2011 10:09
> An: Thomas Willig
> Cc: Healey List
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Valve clatter when cold on 100
>
>
>
> Thomas -
>
>
>
> Did you put on a spin on oil filter adaptor?  If so, you should use a
> filter that has an anti-drainback valve.  Fram PH43 is a number I know
> offhand.
>
>
>
> Sounds to me the oil galleries are running dry because the filter
> doesn't have a drainback valve on it.
>
>
>
> Try that.
>
>
>
> Alan
>
> On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 3:09 PM, Thomas Willig <twillig at ruda.de> wrote:
>
> Since the complete rebuild of my engine I encounter a valve clatter
> every time when starting the engine from cold. To be more precise,
> "cold" means when the engine has stood overnight and has reached ambient
> temperatures. After 30 seconds the clatter stops. It sounds like valve
> clatter from one valve only. Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Regards
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
>
>
> 1956 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0d%0aUnsubscribe/Manage>
> : http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
>
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Sep  2 06:19:41 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2011 08:19:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Flood damaged Healey
In-Reply-To: <BAY166-W45DCA9724A301C56013C66A5180@phx.gbl>
References: <4E5FA884.8090203@comcast.net>
	<BAY166-W45DCA9724A301C56013C66A5180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E60C9DD.8090506@comcast.net>

I was wondering if anyone on the list knows the car.

On 9/1/2011 8:20 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> I wonder what they want for it. I'm currently restoring a TR6 that was 
> drowned in hurricane Wilma. If you figure you are going to have to do 
> a frame up rest anyway you can build a very good car.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> > Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 11:45:08 -0400
> > From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Flood damaged Healey
> >
> > A friend sent me a picture that was taken recently in the aftermath of
> > Hurricane Irene of a BJ8 that was caught in it at a storage unit. It is
> > on the team.net forum at 
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=122
> > I don't know how high the water got or how far the car fell, but the
> > possibilities are quite sickening.
> > Charlie

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  2 06:44:29 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 05:44:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Slippery Rock Pa, Memorial Day Weekend ...
In-Reply-To: <4E60C9DD.8090506@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1314967469.58328.YahooMailClassic@web65906.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Any LBC/Healey related activities this weekend in the Slippery Rock area?

I'll be in the daily driver. The Healey and I aren't up to the 8 hour drive from CT.

Greg

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep  2 07:14:59 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2011 06:14:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Valve clatter when cold on 100
In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1564@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1564@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <4E60D6D3.1000602@comcast.net>

SWAG:

One of the bolts on the tappet covers is shorter than the others.  If it's too long, it could impact the #1 tappet that 
could sound like a noisy valve (don't think the noise would go away, though).

Bob



On 9/2/2011 12:09 AM, Thomas Willig wrote:
> Since the complete rebuild of my engine I encounter a valve clatter
> every time when starting the engine from cold. To be more precise,
> "cold" means when the engine has stood overnight and has reached ambient
> temperatures. After 30 seconds the clatter stops. It sounds like valve
> clatter from one valve only. Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Regards
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
>
>
> 1956 BN2
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bighealey at charter.net  Fri Sep  2 07:59:45 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 06:59:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters
In-Reply-To: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
References: <605c4.70ab267f.3b9147d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003801cc6978$9247e900$b6d7bb00$@charter.net>

K&N HP2009

This has the anti-flow back  feature and is generally considered a top shelf
filter.  I change it every or every other oil change.

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 1:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-On Oil Filters

Hate to admit this, but it's been over two years since I've changed the oil
in the Healey, just before I removed the fender for repair, and the car's
been sitting since. Question is, what are the Fram, Purolator, etc. numbers
for a spin-on oil filter that will fit a Smitty's spin-on conversion
(probably the same as other spin-on conversions) so I can go buy a filter
tomorrow to do the oil change on Saturday. (and don't give me any grief
about concours-original. Smitty's name on the part gives me an indulgence
for the oil filter exchange.)

Thanks in advance,
Gary
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Sep  2 08:26:30 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 07:26:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What to do with that spare Room
Message-ID: <CABXhz88KGDhprkAr54QzJXdXsc7MEwoYU5dXti40u05TALj1Xw@mail.gmail.com>

http://m.wimp.com/driftingroom/

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Sep  2 08:30:31 2011
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2011 09:30:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Slippery Rock Pa, Memorial Day Weekend ...
In-Reply-To: <1314967469.58328.YahooMailClassic@web65906.mail.ac4.yahoo. com>
References: <4E60C9DD.8090506@comcast.net>
	<1314967469.58328.YahooMailClassic@web65906.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201109020730670.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

At 07:44 AM 9/2/2011, Greg Mandas wrote:
>Any LBC/Healey related activities this weekend in the Slippery Rock area?
>
>I'll be in the daily driver. The Healey and I aren't up to the 8 
>hour drive from CT.
>
>Greg
===
Better use the Delorean, as you have to go back a few months.....

Sorry, couldn't resist... or help.

Peter C 

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Sep  2 08:31:59 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 07:31:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Very cool no lbc
Message-ID: <CABXhz89vCW10CjkHYyVSGMwDsArUi=tw3T94haxEvHi_BY_a0g@mail.gmail.com>

http://m.wimp.com/woodworkingproject/
Very cool wooden machine

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  2 08:34:14 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 07:34:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Slippery Rock Pa, Memorial Day Weekend ...
In-Reply-To: <201109020730670.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <1314974054.39980.YahooMailClassic@web65914.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

LOL.

I always get those backwards.

I think it's because as a kid in school I never wanted to think about labor at the end of summer.

gm

--- On Fri, 9/2/11, Peter Caldwell <peter at nosimport.com> wrote:

> From: Peter Caldwell <peter at nosimport.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Slippery Rock Pa, Memorial Day Weekend ...
> To: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, September 2, 2011, 10:30 AM
> At 07:44 AM 9/2/2011, Greg Mandas
> wrote:
> >Any LBC/Healey related activities this weekend in the
> Slippery Rock area?
> >
> >I'll be in the daily driver. The Healey and I aren't up
> to the 8 
> >hour drive from CT.
> >
> >Greg
> ===
> Better use the Delorean, as you have to go back a few
> months.....
> 
> Sorry, couldn't resist... or help.
> 
> Peter C 

From nelson_wd at msn.com  Fri Sep  2 09:13:16 2011
From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 10:13:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
Message-ID: <BLU161-W23BBDE5C0B5EE5679691159C180@phx.gbl>

Several weeks go there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending
debate.  There is a great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy tires
for my restored 59" 3000 BN-7  Someone in the recent thread recommended a
Michelin but not sure of the size.  I want to upgrade to the largest tire
without any fender rubbing issue.  Suggestions?  thanks,  bill

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep  2 11:04:36 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 17:04:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <BLU161-W23BBDE5C0B5EE5679691159C180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1024215548.122039.1314983076697.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Depends, in part, on the width of your rims. I believe the 100s came with 4.5" rims, not sure about the 3000s (either, or both, 4.5" or 5", I suspect). 

If 4.5", you probably don't want to go over 165mm width ('std' or 'low' profile would be personal preference). With 5" or larger, you can go to 175 or 185. I have 6" rims with 185/70 Vredesteins, and I think they look a bit 'over-rimmed.' No fender rubbing, but the right side tire sometimes makes slight contact with the bump stop bolts in hard turns. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "W.D. Nelson" <nelson_wd at msn.com> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, September 2, 2011 8:13:16 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Tires 

Several weeks go there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending 
debate. There is a great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy tires 
for my restored 59" 3000 BN-7 Someone in the recent thread recommended a 
Michelin but not sure of the size. I want to upgrade to the largest tire 
without any fender rubbing issue. Suggestions? thanks, bill 
_______________________________________________ 

From 3000mk3 at bighealey.org  Fri Sep  2 12:09:15 2011
From: 3000mk3 at bighealey.org (tom mitchell)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 14:09:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <1024215548.122039.1314983076697.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <BLU161-W23BBDE5C0B5EE5679691159C180@phx.gbl>
	<1024215548.122039.1314983076697.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002501cc699b$6e484860$4ad8d920$@bighealey.org>

For what it's worth I run 4.5" rims with 185/70 Vredestein, no rubbing that
I know of.
The tires are OK, yet I feel more tire flex (since they are taller and on a
more narrow rim) when driving

I have a set of Michelins that are 175/70, they look great and have about
10,000 miles however alas they are over ten years old.
I miss having them on the car as I think the size (175) is a better fit and
that Michelins are a superior tire (IMHO).

Tom Mitchell
1965 Austin Healey BJ8 MK3

"Ability is what you are capable of doing.  Motivation determines what you
do.  Attitude determines how well you do it." - Lou Holtz

Doing it and doing it right, is up to you!

"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." -John
Lennon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2011 1:05 PM
To: W.D. Nelson
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires

Depends, in part, on the width of your rims. I believe the 100s came with
4.5" rims, not sure about the 3000s (either, or both, 4.5" or 5", I
suspect).

If 4.5", you probably don't want to go over 165mm width ('std' or 'low'
profile would be personal preference). With 5" or larger, you can go to 175
or 185. I have 6" rims with 185/70 Vredesteins, and I think they look a bit
'over-rimmed.' No fender rubbing, but the right side tire sometimes makes
slight contact with the bump stop bolts in hard turns.

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "W.D. Nelson" <nelson_wd at msn.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, September 2, 2011 8:13:16 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Tires

Several weeks go there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending
debate. There is a great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy tires
for my restored 59" 3000 BN-7 Someone in the recent thread recommended a
Michelin but not sure of the size. I want to upgrade to the largest tire
without any fender rubbing issue. Suggestions? thanks, bill
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/3000mk3 at bighealey.org

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Sep  2 13:23:53 2011
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 20:23:53 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [Healeys] Re -  Tires
Message-ID: <1314991433.253.YahooMailNeo@web24008.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I've just put Vredstein 165 Sprint Classics on my 4.5" 100 rims and am very
happy with them

Mike Brooks
'56 BN2
Scotland

 ----- Original Message -----
From: "W.D. Nelson" <nelson_wd at msn.com> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Friday, September 2, 2011 8:13:16 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Tires 

Several weeks
go there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending 
debate. There is a
great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy tires 
for my restored 59"
3000 BN-7 Someone in the recent thread recommended a 
Michelin but not sure of
the size. I want to upgrade to the largest tire 
without any fender rubbing
issue. Suggestions? thanks, bill 

Reply
to: mike.brooks at alumni.warwick.ac.uk 

From healey100m at gmail.com  Fri Sep  2 14:35:28 2011
From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 16:35:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <BLU161-W23BBDE5C0B5EE5679691159C180@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU161-W23BBDE5C0B5EE5679691159C180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B98FD43A-49F7-4F93-BAB5-993A03B445D8@gmail.com>

165 always looks to small for me. I like the Vredesteins 186/70 x 15 on the
100. Not as harsh riding as the Michelins.

On the BJ8 I put 185 x 15 a year ago spring. 14,000 miles later I'm very
impressed. They roll really well on the open road. The only issue I had was
the I had to trim about a 1/4 inch off the shroud/ fender seam at the front.
It would rub slightly on hard cornering. Highly recommended this tire for
touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70.

The side wall of the 185 (being taller) feels stronger & runs truer than the
185/70 at highway speeds.

Randy

Randy Hicks




On Sep 2, 2011, at 11:13 AM, "W.D. Nelson" <nelson_wd at msn.com> wrote:

> Several weeks go there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending
> debate.  There is a great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy
tires
> for my restored 59" 3000 BN-7  Someone in the recent thread recommended a
> Michelin but not sure of the size.  I want to upgrade to the largest tire
> without any fender rubbing issue.  Suggestions?  thanks,  bill
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep  2 15:21:56 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 21:21:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <B98FD43A-49F7-4F93-BAB5-993A03B445D8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <873771927.135626.1314998516382.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: " Highly recommended this tire for 
touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70." 


Hmmmmm ... that means the 185/15 is over 2 inches--allowing for compression of the lower sidewall--taller than the 185/70. 

Anybody know the denominator of the aspect ratio of a non-low profile tire (80, 85, ?)? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


165 always looks to small for me. I like the Vredesteins 186/70 x 15 on the 
100. Not as harsh riding as the Michelins. 

On the BJ8 I put 185 x 15 a year ago spring. 14,000 miles later I'm very 
impressed. They roll really well on the open road. The only issue I had was 
the I had to trim about a 1/4 inch off the shroud/ fender seam at the front. 
It would rub slightly on hard cornering. Highly recommended this tire for 
touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70. 

The side wall of the 185 (being taller) feels stronger & runs truer than the 
185/70 at highway speeds. 

Randy 

Randy Hicks 




On Sep 2, 2011, at 11:13 AM, "W.D. Nelson" <nelson_wd at msn.com> wrote: 

> Several weeks go there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending 
> debate. There is a great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy 
tires 
> for my restored 59" 3000 BN-7 Someone in the recent thread recommended a 
> Michelin but not sure of the size. I want to upgrade to the largest tire 
> without any fender rubbing issue. Suggestions? thanks, bill 
> _______________________________________________ 
> Healeys at autox.team.net 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Suggested annual donation $12.75 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com 
_______________________________________________ 
Healeys at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 

From healey100m at gmail.com  Fri Sep  2 15:30:39 2011
From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 17:30:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <873771927.135626.1314998516382.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <873771927.135626.1314998516382.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <65258D96-E639-47E4-B647-2A6CC01DE100@gmail.com>

Sorry, my mistake. The tire 185 x 15 is 1 inch taller than the 185/70 - 1/2
inch ground clearance. The 185 x 15 is an 80 aspect.

Randy

On Sep 2, 2011, at 5:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> re: " Highly recommended this tire for
> touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70."
>
>
> Hmmmmm ... that means the 185/15 is over 2 inches--allowing for compression
of the lower sidewall--taller than the 185/70.
>
> Anybody know the denominator of the aspect ratio of a non-low profile tire
(80, 85, ?)?
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> 165 always looks to small for me. I like the Vredesteins 186/70 x 15 on the
> 100. Not as harsh riding as the Michelins.
>
> On the BJ8 I put 185 x 15 a year ago spring. 14,000 miles later I'm very
> impressed. They roll really well on the open road. The only issue I had was
> the I had to trim about a 1/4 inch off the shroud/ fender seam at the
front.
> It would rub slightly on hard cornering. Highly recommended this tire for
> touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70.
>
> The side wall of the 185 (being taller) feels stronger & runs truer than
the
> 185/70 at highway speeds.
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 2, 2011, at 11:13 AM, "W.D. Nelson" <nelson_wd at msn.com> wrote:
>
> > Several weeks go there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending
> > debate.  There is a great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy
> tires
> > for my restored 59" 3000 BN-7  Someone in the recent thread recommended a
> > Michelin but not sure of the size.  I want to upgrade to the largest tire
> > without any fender rubbing issue.  Suggestions?  thanks,  bill
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep  2 15:51:58 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 21:51:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <65258D96-E639-47E4-B647-2A6CC01DE100@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1740100089.136834.1315000318114.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

" ... 1/2 inch ground clearance" 


Enough to triple the lifespan of your mufflers. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Sorry, my mistake. The tire 185 x 15 is 1 inch taller than the 185/70 - 1/2 inch ground clearance. The 185 x 15 is an 80 aspect. 


Randy 



On Sep 2, 2011, at 5:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: 





re: " Highly recommended this tire for 
touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70." 


Hmmmmm ... that means the 185/15 is over 2 inches--allowing for compression of the lower sidewall--taller than the 185/70. 

Anybody know the denominator of the aspect ratio of a non-low profile tire (80, 85, ?)? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


165 always looks to small for me. I like the Vredesteins 186/70 x 15 on the 
100. Not as harsh riding as the Michelins. 

On the BJ8 I put 185 x 15 a year ago spring. 14,000 miles later I'm very 
impressed. They roll really well on the open road. The only issue I had was 
the I had to trim about a 1/4 inch off the shroud/ fender seam at the front. 
It would rub slightly on hard cornering. Highly recommended this tire for 
touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70. 

The side wall of the 185 (being taller) feels stronger & runs truer than the 
185/70 at highway speeds. 

Randy 

Randy Hicks 

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  2 15:55:55 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 14:55:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <873771927.135626.1314998516382.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <B98FD43A-49F7-4F93-BAB5-993A03B445D8@gmail.com>
	<873771927.135626.1314998516382.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1315000555.10203.YahooMailNeo@web120530.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I completely agree with Randy. `following his advice I installed 185 Vdrestein
on my BN2 and I am 120% satisfied.
 
Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571)
321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota,
Colombia


>________________________________
>From: Bob Spidell
<bspidell at comcast.net>
>To: Randy Hicks <healey100m at gmail.com>
>Cc: healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, September 2, 2011 4:21 PM
>Subject:
Re: [Healeys] Tires
>
>re: " Highly recommended this tire for 
>touring and
also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70." 
>
>
>Hmmmmm
... that means the 185/15 is over 2 inches--allowing for compression of the
lower sidewall--taller than the 185/70. 
>
>Anybody know the denominator of
the aspect ratio of a non-low profile tire (80, 85, ?)? 
>
>Bob 
>
>
>-------------------------------- 
>Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
>
>-----
Original Message -----
>
>
>165 always looks to small for me. I like the
Vredesteins 186/70 x 15 on the 
>100. Not as harsh riding as the Michelins. 
>
>On the BJ8 I put 185 x 15 a year ago spring. 14,000 miles later I'm very
>impressed. They roll really well on the open road. The only issue I had was
>the I had to trim about a 1/4 inch off the shroud/ fender seam at the front.
>It would rub slightly on hard cornering. Highly recommended this tire for
>touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70. 
>
>The side wall of the 185 (being taller) feels stronger & runs truer than the
>185/70 at highway speeds. 
>
>Randy 
>
>Randy Hicks 
>
>
>
>
>On Sep 2, 2011,
at 11:13 AM, "W.D. Nelson" <nelson_wd at msn.com> wrote: 
>
>> Several weeks go
there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending 
>> debate. There is a
great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy 
>tires 
>> for my restored
59" 3000 BN-7 Someone in the recent thread recommended a 
>> Michelin but not
sure of the size. I want to upgrade to the largest tire 
>> without any fender
rubbing issue. Suggestions? thanks, bill 
>>
_______________________________________________ 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net 
>>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com
>_______________________________________________ 
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>Suggested annual donation $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>_______________________________________________
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>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From bluehealey at gmail.com  Fri Sep  2 15:58:54 2011
From: bluehealey at gmail.com ('bluehealey')
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 22:58:54 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <873771927.135626.1314998516382.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <873771927.135626.1314998516382.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F46CD5B5-3173-495E-8BA2-307EB050E5DD@gmail.com>

I believe a standard profile has an aspect ratio of 90 (ie 0.9)

AlanB - iPhone message.

On 2 Sep 2011, at 22:21, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: " Highly recommended this tire for
> touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70."
>
>
> Hmmmmm ... that means the 185/15 is over 2 inches--allowing for compression
of the lower sidewall--taller than the 185/70.
>
> Anybody know the denominator of the aspect ratio of a non-low profile tire
(80, 85, ?)?
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> 165 always looks to small for me. I like the Vredesteins 186/70 x 15 on the
> 100. Not as harsh riding as the Michelins.
>
> On the BJ8 I put 185 x 15 a year ago spring. 14,000 miles later I'm very
> impressed. They roll really well on the open road. The only issue I had was
> the I had to trim about a 1/4 inch off the shroud/ fender seam at the front.
> It would rub slightly on hard cornering. Highly recommended this tire for
> touring and also gives about 1 inch more ground clearance than the 185/70.
>
> The side wall of the 185 (being taller) feels stronger & runs truer than the
> 185/70 at highway speeds.
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 2, 2011, at 11:13 AM, "W.D. Nelson" <nelson_wd at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Several weeks go there was a short thread on tire size. The never-ending
>> debate. There is a great tire sale this weekend and I am ready to buy
> tires
>> for my restored 59" 3000 BN-7 Someone in the recent thread recommended a
>> Michelin but not sure of the size. I want to upgrade to the largest tire
>> without any fender rubbing issue. Suggestions? thanks, bill
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at googlemail.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Sep  2 16:08:34 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 18:08:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Flood damaged Healey
In-Reply-To: <4E5FA884.8090203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20110902180834.MTWOB.14651.root@pamxwww07-z01>

it is sickening!!  looks exactly like mine--minus the water damage.


---- Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
A friend sent me a picture that was taken recently in the aftermath of 
Hurricane Irene of a BJ8 that was caught in it at a storage unit.  It is 
on the team.net forum at http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=122
I don't know how high the water got or how far the car fell, but the 
possibilities are quite sickening.
Charlie

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Sep  2 16:23:32 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 18:23:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] problem with BT7
In-Reply-To: <4E601231.000021.08880@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <20110902182332.E9O6N.14768.root@pamxwww07-z01>

IIRC, a Pertronix will not go bad this way---it either goes or it quits.

Not sure though.


---- "edic at tampabay.rr.com" <edic at tampabay.rr.com> wrote: 

=============
Frank, are you using electronic ignition like Pertronix?

Mel Brunet




-------Original Message-------

From: frank yow
Date: 9/1/2011 5:28:26 PM
To: healey
Subject: [Healeys] problem with BT7

Hi Healeyphiles, I have a problem, seek advice. Have a miss developing after
running 35 to 40 minutes, Have had distributor rebuilt, new plugs good
(epoxy) rotor, have swapped several coils to no effect, I have an SU and an
electronic pump, switchable, no improvement have inline filter, shows
nothing, nothing seems to improve situation, carb floats OK, have tried all
I can think of, any advice? Frank Yow, BT7 (61)
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of grad.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 05_puppy_sticky_note_en.gif]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep  2 17:31:08 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 16:31:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Slippery Rock Pa, Memorial Day Weekend ...
In-Reply-To: <201109020730670.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <1315006268.22961.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hey , a  Friday funny,  very timely Peter, and funny.    ))
 


--- On Fri, 9/2/11, Peter Caldwell <peter at nosimport.com> wrote:


From: Peter Caldwell <peter at nosimport.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Slippery Rock Pa, Memorial Day Weekend ...
To: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, September 2, 2011, 10:30 AM


At 07:44 AM 9/2/2011, Greg Mandas wrote:
>Any LBC/Healey related activities this weekend in the Slippery Rock area?
>
>I'll be in the daily driver. The Healey and I aren't up to the 8
>hour drive from CT.
>
>Greg
===
Better use the Delorean, as you have to go back a few months.....

Sorry, couldn't resist... or help.

Peter C
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Fri Sep  2 17:43:13 2011
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins )
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 23:43:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
Message-ID: <BLU117-DS16B41D7797E18E690EF862BF180@phx.gbl>

I have them on my BN7 and have no issue.
RVC of KY
BN7 #440
Regards, Richard C, via my Blackberry

-----Original Message-----
From: Josi Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 21:55:55
To: <bspidell at comcast.net>; <healey100m at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires

I completely agree with Randy. `following his advice I installed 185 Vdrestein
on my BN2 and I am 120% satisfied.
 
Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571)
321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net
<http://www.musme.net> 


Bogota,
Colombia


>________________________________
>From: Bob Spidell
<bspidell at comcast.net>
>To: Randy Hicks
<healey100m at gmail.com>
>Cc: healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday,
September 2, 2011 4:21 PM
>Subject:
Re: [Healeys] Tires
>
>re: " Highly
recommended this tire for 
>touring and
also gives about 1 inch more ground
clearance than the 185/70." 
>
>
>Hmmmmm
... that means the 185/15 is over 2
inches--allowing for compression of the
lower sidewall--taller than the
185/70. 
>
>Anybody know the denominator of
the aspect ratio of a non-low
profile tire (80, 85, ?)? 
>
>Bob 
>
>
>-------------------------------- 
>Bob
Spidell - San Jose, CA 
>
>-----
Original Message -----
>
>
>165 always looks
to small for me. I like the
Vredesteins 186/70 x 15 on the 
>100. Not as harsh
riding as the Michelins. 
>
>On the BJ8 I put 185 x 15 a year ago spring.
14,000 miles later I'm very
>impressed. They roll really well on the open
road. The only issue I had was
>the I had to trim about a 1/4 inch off the
shroud/ fender seam at the front.
>It would rub slightly on hard cornering.
Highly recommended this tire for
>touring and also gives about 1 inch more
ground clearance than the 185/70. 
>
>The side wall of the 185 (being taller)
feels stronger & runs truer than the
>185/70 at highway speeds. 
>
>Randy 
>
>Randy Hicks 
>
>
>
>
>On Sep 2, 2011,
at 11:13 AM, "W.D. Nelson"
<nelson_wd at msn.com> wrote: 
>
>> Several weeks go
there was a short thread on
tire size. The never-ending 
>> debate. There is a
great tire sale this
weekend and I am ready to buy 
>tires 
>> for my restored
59" 3000 BN-7
Someone in the recent thread recommended a 
>> Michelin but not
sure of the
size. I want to upgrade to the largest tire 
>> without any fender
rubbing
issue. Suggestions? thanks, bill 
>>
_______________________________________________ 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net 
>>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com
>_______________________________________________ 
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>Suggested annual donation $12.75
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_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From ed.reiss at hotmail.com  Fri Sep  2 18:20:16 2011
From: ed.reiss at hotmail.com (Ed Reiss)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 19:20:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <COL116-W30468E2DE52F66AD3E593C9E1B0@phx.gbl>

The results are visible within two weeks!..
http://internetsektor.com/page.friend.php?asSID=98e8

From ed.reiss at hotmail.com  Fri Sep  2 23:39:10 2011
From: ed.reiss at hotmail.com (Ed Reiss)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 00:39:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 2
Message-ID: <COL116-W16AC86505D3D129A1FC3E59E1B0@phx.gbl>

Sexy-time right now!.
http://alaxotodizayn.com/page.friend.php?anjgoogleId=05b8

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 04:42:56 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 06:42:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2
In-Reply-To: <COL116-W16AC86505D3D129A1FC3E59E1B0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL116-W16AC86505D3D129A1FC3E59E1B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6e0i7_-F2GtJpq2R=WdE9du_9O9oKD==XYjsEihtLogA@mail.gmail.com>

Ed--

Someone has gotten into your computer is sending spam to the contacts in
your address book including the mailing list.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 1:39 AM, Ed Reiss <ed.reiss at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Sexy-time right now!.
> http://alaxotodizayn.com/page.friend.php?anjgoogleId=05b8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Sep  3 05:08:44 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 04:08:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 2
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6e0i7_-F2GtJpq2R=WdE9du_9O9oKD==XYjsEihtLogA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1315048124.95632.YahooMailClassic@web180606.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Yes, and if you click on it there is a malware virus!  Ask me how I know.  I'm
lucky my anti malware program blocked it.  It was on the Healey list, I
thought it was OK.  You just can't trust anything anymore. ;^)
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
02 Heritage Springer

--- On Sat, 9/3/11, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2
To: "Ed Reiss" <ed.reiss at hotmail.com>
Cc: liz_a_belle at yahoo.com, elizabeth.brannon at oracle.com,
healeys at autox.team.net, hbeckbari at aol.com, info at optionsxpress.com,
jhsports at charter.net, jasonc at pocketpak.com
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2011, 10:42 AM

Ed--

Someone has gotten into your computer is sending spam to the contacts in
your address book including the mailing list.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 1:39 AM, Ed Reiss <ed.reiss at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Sexy-time right now!.
> http://alaxotodizayn.com/page.friend.php?anjgoogleId=05b8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From segocl at aol.com  Sat Sep  3 07:14:12 2011
From: segocl at aol.com (Christopher Sego)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 09:14:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Tires
Message-ID: <BA7E9D0F-ECD5-448B-991D-8E6C3DEC479D@aol.com>

What kind of tires should I put on my 59' Sprite?  I have the original AH
Hubcaps.

Thanks,

Christopher Sego
Ocoee, FL
segocl at aol.com

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Sep  3 07:18:31 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 09:18:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Updates
Message-ID: <00a501cc6a3b$fa964ab0$efc2e010$@verizon.net>

Following are some recent updates.

1. Link to the Historic Vehicle Association on the Links page, Club section.
Worth joining. Free.

2. A caveat on the existing listing for fuel tanks available from a vendor
on the Parts page, Body section.

3. A link to a company in Northern New Jersey that is an expert in mounting
tires on wire wheels, balancing and tuning them on the Links page, Tires
section. (Important to me)

4. A wiring diagram to make the turn signals audible with a buzzer or other
"noise" maker courtesy of Steve Byers. This is on the Technical page, Safety
section.

5. a link to ABE Books - vendor of all types of books. This is on the Links
page, Miscellaneous section.

6. A link to Alibris Books - another source for books. This is on the Links
page, miscellaneous section.

7. A link to British Tool Company Source for tool kits and much more. This
is on the Parts page, Tools section.

8. A two part link to the repair of a Hard Top. Drawings and a second link
is a parts list. These are on the Technical page, Body section. NOTE: There
will be another article on this subject in another week or two along with a
video.

Many more items to come as I catch up from storms and outages.


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From jwhlyadv at aol.com  Sat Sep  3 09:06:11 2011
From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 11:06:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Updates
In-Reply-To: <00a501cc6a3b$fa964ab0$efc2e010$@verizon.net>
References: <00a501cc6a3b$fa964ab0$efc2e010$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <8CE386226D21B6F-142C-5B6B9@webmail-m161.sysops.aol.com>

Hi John (and anyone else with a web page)

Can you add a link to Conclave 2012


http://www.2012conclave.com/


Thanks,

Jim Werner






-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 3, 2011 9:52 am
Subject: [Healeys] Updates


Following are some recent updates.
1. Link to the Historic Vehicle Association on the Links page, Club section.
orth joining. Free.
2. A caveat on the existing listing for fuel tanks available from a vendor
n the Parts page, Body section.
3. A link to a company in Northern New Jersey that is an expert in mounting
ires on wire wheels, balancing and tuning them on the Links page, Tires
ection. (Important to me)
4. A wiring diagram to make the turn signals audible with a buzzer or other
noise" maker courtesy of Steve Byers. This is on the Technical page, Safety
ection.
5. a link to ABE Books - vendor of all types of books. This is on the Links
age, Miscellaneous section.
6. A link to Alibris Books - another source for books. This is on the Links
age, miscellaneous section.
7. A link to British Tool Company Source for tool kits and much more. This
s on the Parts page, Tools section.
8. A two part link to the repair of a Hard Top. Drawings and a second link
s a parts list. These are on the Technical page, Body section. NOTE: There
ill be another article on this subject in another week or two along with a
ideo.
Many more items to come as I catch up from storms and outages.

ohn Sims, BN6
berdeen, NJ

ttp://www.healey6.com
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv at aol.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 09:20:33 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 17:20:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmCFePsjHVH_SzyxdAr=gp9CDrxiwpHmh_zv2egTUUsjxQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am not statisfied with my sidescreen seals. Is there any place I can buy
the wide rubber profile in meters? I would rather buy some lenght and cut it
to shape (as the originals).
Or is there alternative item to use (I have a set of AH4H).

Gergo

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Sep  3 09:26:46 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 11:26:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Updates
In-Reply-To: <8CE386226D21B6F-142C-5B6B9@webmail-m161.sysops.aol.com>
References: <00a501cc6a3b$fa964ab0$efc2e010$@verizon.net>
	<8CE386226D21B6F-142C-5B6B9@webmail-m161.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <00b401cc6a4d$e4f158f0$aed40ad0$@verizon.net>

On the Links page, Shows section.

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

http://www.healey6.com

 

From: Jwhlyadv [mailto:jwhlyadv at aol.com] 
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2011 11:06 AM
To: ahbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updates

 

Hi John (and anyone else with a web page)

 

Can you add a link to Conclave 2012

 


http://www.2012conclave.com/

 

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Werner

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  3 10:23:13 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 12:23:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey --  1959 Anglia
Message-ID: <EB2B39CD-4D80-4812-BE54-55A549DE296B@yahoo.com>

My brother-in-law is looking to sell a 59 Anglia. Black, two door. Looks
complete and undamaged. Great interior.

Anyone know if there's a club or association that can lend assistance on
valuation and what-not?

Thanks

Greg
65BJ8

Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  3 11:16:25 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 10:16:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey --  1959 Anglia
In-Reply-To: <EB2B39CD-4D80-4812-BE54-55A549DE296B@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1315070185.62181.YahooMailClassic@web161216.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

NHRA?  :)

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 9/3/11, Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey --  1959 Anglia
To: "Team Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2011, 12:23 PM

My brother-in-law is looking to sell a 59 Anglia. Black, two door. Looks
complete and undamaged. Great interior.

Anyone know if there's a club or association that can lend assistance on
valuation and what-not?

Thanks

Greg
65BJ8

Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From ermontresor at snet.net  Sat Sep  3 12:10:51 2011
From: ermontresor at snet.net (Gene Montresor)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 11:10:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey,  car question
Message-ID: <1315073451.10427.YahooMailRC@web80602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Has anyone repaired a exhaust manifold gasket (a small section is leaking) with 
JB Weld or another type of high temp caulk with any success?  


Thanks 
Gene

From ed.reiss at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  3 12:12:55 2011
From: ed.reiss at hotmail.com (Ed Reiss)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 13:12:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 4
Message-ID: <COL116-W43A63A4B80FB5C80E052F99E1B0@phx.gbl>

Your friend wants to help you! Dont ignore this letter!.
http://cydoniastudio.com/page.friend.php?qahsiteid=30nu9

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  3 12:24:44 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 14:24:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey --  1959 Anglia
In-Reply-To: <1048853288-1315068682-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1462523529-@b17.c20.bise6.blackberry>
References: <EB2B39CD-4D80-4812-BE54-55A549DE296B@yahoo.com>
	<1048853288-1315068682-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1462523529-@b17.c20.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <DE8EB0D6-51BE-43A6-A06D-697535FE7120@yahoo.com>

Slippery Pock PA

Greg
65BJ8

Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.


On Sep 3, 2011, at 12:48 PM, jjkbj7 at yahoo.com wrote:

> Location?
> Sent from my BlackBerry device from Cincinnati Bell Wireless
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>
> Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 12:23:13
> To: Team Healey List<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey --  1959 Anglia
>
> My brother-in-law is looking to sell a 59 Anglia. Black, two door. Looks
> complete and undamaged. Great interior.
>
> Anyone know if there's a club or association that can lend assistance on
> valuation and what-not?
>
> Thanks
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jjkbj7 at yahoo.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 13:16:13 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 12:16:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey, car question
In-Reply-To: <1315073451.10427.YahooMailRC@web80602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1315073451.10427.YahooMailRC@web80602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-ToWqxYHYyk2a5dwVwk9ftBX58EzNiDaRdi9aTinVMAkxw@mail.gmail.com>

JB weld is not a caulk but rather an epoxy.  It might seal a hole, but what
are you going to do if you ever need to remove the manifold?  It dries so
hard it can be machined.
I have seen hi temp silicone (Permatex 26 or 27) used to seal header gaskets
during assembly, making sure everything is clean during the assembly.  I
would hold little hope that squirting some in a dirty blown gasket would
have any hope of lasting more than a few minutes.
Rick

On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 11:10 AM, Gene Montresor <ermontresor at snet.net>wrote:

> Has anyone repaired a exhaust manifold gasket (a small section is leaking)
> with
> JB Weld or another type of high temp caulk with any success?
>
>
> Thanks
> Gene
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep  3 14:05:47 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 13:05:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey,  car question
In-Reply-To: <1315073451.10427.YahooMailRC@web80602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1315073451.10427.YahooMailRC@web80602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E62889B.4010809@comcast.net>

The problem with any sealant is you're coming from the outside in; i.e. you're likely going to just smear a bunch of 
goop on the outside, which won't hold very long (if at all).  Now, if you had some way to inject the sealant under 
pressure you might have a decent repair until you can get the manifolds off and replace the gasket.   Something less 
viscous than epoxy--like a cyanoacrylate ('crazy glue')--would penetrate better but I don't know of any that could 
endure the temperatures.

I believe JB Weld would do the job but, again, how do you force it into the crack under pressure?  Also, you may have to 
mill the surfaces to get the epoxy off when you finally do a proper repair.

I've used this stuff to help seal up exhaust leaks, you could give it a try:

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_permatex_ultra_copper_maximum_temperature_rtv_silicone_gasket_maker.htm

-- or --

*http://preview.tinyurl.com/6gapxb2*

Bob


On 9/3/2011 11:10 AM, Gene Montresor wrote:
> Has anyone repaired a exhaust manifold gasket (a small section is leaking) with
> JB Weld or another type of high temp caulk with any success?
>
>
> Thanks
> Gene
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Sep  3 15:25:59 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 15:25:59 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 4
In-Reply-To: <COL116-W43A63A4B80FB5C80E052F99E1B0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL116-W43A63A4B80FB5C80E052F99E1B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E629B67.2040500@bradakis.com>

Sorry.  I had to work this morning, or I would have blocked Ed's
infected address sooner.

AnyDayNow I'll be getting new, improved spam prevention on
the new Team.Net server which should minimize such junk
getting through to the list.

mjb.

From pjarrett14 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 17:20:26 2011
From: pjarrett14 at gmail.com (Phil Jarrett)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 19:20:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey
Message-ID: <74DCE96F-76D7-474D-8127-6F4825C23D93@gmail.com>

Went for a ride in Martin Jansens 100-4 supercharged V12 today. I  have now
found the perfect  engine for my next project, just need to find a pile of
money to fund it. A beautiful car with acceleration  that resembles the airbus
320 I fly daily. Should be on every healey hot rodder's want list. Not for
everyone but for me yes. The car is     nicely displayed on his website ,Jule
Enterprises

Cheers Phil


Sent from my iPhone

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Sat Sep  3 18:06:42 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 20:06:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey --  1959 Anglia
In-Reply-To: <EB2B39CD-4D80-4812-BE54-55A549DE296B@yahoo.com>
References: <EB2B39CD-4D80-4812-BE54-55A549DE296B@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E62C112.2060503@comcast.net>

There is at least one English Ford Club in the USA.  There was a man 
that started it from the Harrisburg, PA area, but he moved to New 
England.  Do a search and see what you can come up with.  Here is one 
that I found:
http://www.enfostuff.com/
Your request isn't totally off topic since the Healeys were involved in 
the Healey Fiesta, a hotted up Ford Fiesta.  I believe that I have seen 
it at AHSTC Encounter some years ago.
Charlie


On 9/3/2011 12:23 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:
> My brother-in-law is looking to sell a 59 Anglia. Black, two door. Looks
> complete and undamaged. Great interior.
>
> Anyone know if there's a club or association that can lend assistance on
> valuation and what-not?
>
> Thanks
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sat Sep  3 18:17:56 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 16:17:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Bad_running_due_to_ethanol_in_gas=3F?=
Message-ID: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>

Lately I've been experiencing bad running - loading up on taking off from a stop sign. Better in cool weather, worse in hot weather. It's like the fuel is now more volatile and vapor-locks at a lower temperature.

A number of other collector-car drivers have mentioned similar problems.

I did online research and bought an inexpensive kit which reveals the percentage of ethanol in the gas.

My last tank, Unocal 76 Regular, which ran badly, turned out to be 8% ethanol.

Pictures of the test, the kit and a link to the supplier's website which has lots of information on ethanol in gas, and how tax breaks are incentivizing suppliers to over-mix to a higher percentage of ethanol than is allowed by law.

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From mbran89793 at aol.com  Sat Sep  3 18:46:57 2011
From: mbran89793 at aol.com (Marion S. Brantley, Jr.)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 20:46:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey,  car question
In-Reply-To: <1315073451.10427.YahooMailRC@web80602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1315073451.10427.YahooMailRC@web80602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE38B348965A04-1CF0-62F90@webmail-m157.sysops.aol.com>

 To be truthful that would be about like putting a "Hot Patch" on a condom.



Marion



-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Montresor <ermontresor at snet.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 3, 2011 2:51 pm
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey,  car question


Has anyone repaired a exhaust manifold gasket (a small section is leaking)
with
JB Weld or another type of high temp caulk with any success?


Thanks
Gene
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  3 19:28:20 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 21:28:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale
In-Reply-To: <6E289D9D-EAFF-42D9-92BC-66B48890E64A@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6B2307BC61634B189A1B5D9232F5F8CD@WORLDCARS>
	<4E5AAAA9.2060306@gmail.com>
	<CAAh8et=RSQucFT5hMR7Hco_4o6YajXb-UWnHxXS9R45Fm248fw@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E289D9D-EAFF-42D9-92BC-66B48890E64A@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <D3160612-4B2B-4EFC-B950-C3BE7EC6B0E5@yahoo.com>

as a member of the list I'd say That was not a trade ad. Anyway, when I get
the cash I'll be posting, wanted: 100/4. M, S or neither, any condition.

Greg
65BJ8

Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.


On Aug 29, 2011, at 11:34 AM, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> What is wrong with the way he did it. No different than some of the stupid
Friday funnies that have nothing to do with a LBC. As well as the other misc
things that are posted on this list that have nothing to do with a Healey.
>
> If it is information that you can use to better the marque or get another
Healey on the road whats the big deal.
>
> You have a button on the keyboard labeled DELETE use it if it isnt of your
interest.
>
>
> On Aug 28, 2011, at 2:08 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>
>> NO!
>>
>> Derek
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Bob <jagxk120 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Is the list for trade ads?
>>> B
>>>
>>>
>>> Le 28/08/11 22:40, classic trade space a icrit :
>>>
>>>> we have a nice 1957 100/6 for sale if any one has interest email m and i
>>>> will
>>>> send details.
>>>> ___________________________

From britcrs at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 19:35:56 2011
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 18:35:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey
In-Reply-To: <74DCE96F-76D7-474D-8127-6F4825C23D93@gmail.com>
References: <74DCE96F-76D7-474D-8127-6F4825C23D93@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAHuLBP-CgBSxA8XttiaH9RjPU-MNVE7=WJa9yDWeqWTEuj7w1Q@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not particularly a nasty boy fan (to each his own) but I saw this car
when it was at Conclave in San Diego and it's a work of art. Detail you
wouldn't believe and one of the neatest engine compartments I have ever
seen. Wish I had the $$$$ and talent to duplicate.

Marv J

On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 4:20 PM, Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Went for a ride in Martin Jansens 100-4 supercharged V12 today. I  have now
> found the perfect  engine for my next project, just need to find a pile of
> money to fund it. A beautiful car with acceleration  that resembles the
> airbus
> 320 I fly daily. Should be on every healey hot rodder's want list. Not for
> everyone but for me yes. The car is     nicely displayed on his website
> ,Jule
> Enterprises
>
> Cheers Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com

From csooch1 at aol.com  Sat Sep  3 19:49:55 2011
From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 20:49:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Working on door gaps
Message-ID: <487A1736-46F7-4401-A098-713ACE66E382@aol.com>

> Hi Folks,
>
> It's been a while since I have posted but I am now getting back to working
on the Healey after a 6 year hiatus.  Had a Son, purchased an older home,
etc.
>
> The car is the same 1966 BJ8 and I am finally to the point of fitting
panels.  The front fender to door gaps are good.  The rear fender to door gaps
have the standard small gap up top and bigger gap at bottom indicative of
frame sagging or damage.  I knew this when I bought the car.  All of the rust
has been cut out and some frame sections capped.  I have removed the
temporarily welded in rear inner body panel for the shut pillar and the rear
seat pan, which needed replacing anyway.  I am now working on straightening
the rear section of the frame.  The car is supported on the front hubs and at
the frame right at the rear outriggers.  I am pressing down on the rear most
part of the frame in the boot with bottle jacks.
>
> I have been able to open the door gaps on both sides so that I have 3/10"
bigger gap up top versus the bottom on both sides.  My question is, do you
think that is enough for me to start tacking in the rest of the inner body
panel and rear frame caps for strength?  I have heard rumors of opening to a
delta of 3/16", welding and, and then when supported by all the wheels it
should sag somewhere close to even gaps.  I had planned on lightly tacking in
the new metal and then jacking the car by the rear axle to see where the gaps
closed, kind of by trial and error.  Wondering if I am at a good starting
point.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8

Sent from my iPhone

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep  3 19:51:16 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 18:51:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>

Let's see ... my car runs bad, my gas has ethanol; therefore, ethanol is the cause of the bad running.  I know science 
is unpopular these days, but that doesn't mean it doesn't still apply.  Try this: empty your tank as much as possible, 
then buy a tank of gas that doesn't have any ethanol--it's still available: http://pure-gas.org/.  If your car stops 
running badly, you've proved your hypothesis; if not, time to look elsewhere for the cause of the problem.

The vapor pressure of gasoline--it's measured by Reid Vapor Pressure 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reid_Vapor_Pressure)--varies during the course of the year; lower in summer, higher in 
winter (usually).  It's closely monitored and controlled to reduce vapor loss and hence smog and, yes, the formulators 
consider its effect on combustion (that's why the VP is higher in the winter).

10% ethanol is allowed; how is 8% 'over-mixed?'

FWIW, the oil industry people I've heard espouse on the subject hate having to put any ethanol at all in their 
gasoline--they want to sell petroleum, not moonshine.

Bob



On 9/3/2011 5:17 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
> Lately I've been experiencing bad running - loading up on taking off from a stop sign. Better in cool weather, worse in hot weather. It's like the fuel is now more volatile and vapor-locks at a lower temperature.
>
> A number of other collector-car drivers have mentioned similar problems.
>
> I did online research and bought an inexpensive kit which reveals the percentage of ethanol in the gas.
>
> My last tank, Unocal 76 Regular, which ran badly, turned out to be 8% ethanol.
>
> Pictures of the test, the kit and a link to the supplier's website which has lots of information on ethanol in gas, and how tax breaks are incentivizing suppliers to over-mix to a higher percentage of ethanol than is allowed by law.
>
> http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 20:15:11 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 10:15:11 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 2
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6e0i7_-F2GtJpq2R=WdE9du_9O9oKD==XYjsEihtLogA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL116-W16AC86505D3D129A1FC3E59E1B0@phx.gbl>
	<CAPTa0B6e0i7_-F2GtJpq2R=WdE9du_9O9oKD==XYjsEihtLogA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ5eg72RFRTdoqtUDms9gSa-BioDFgHVcHdeZO=1Jwv8A@mail.gmail.com>

Certainly a virus and trojan check is in order.  That being said these
things are pretty sophisticated and Ed may be just on the address list of
the real person's infected computer.  Note that Ed Reiss is using hotmail,
almost never a source of an infected account.



On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 6:42 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>wrote:

> Ed--
>
> Someone has gotten into your computer is sending spam to the contacts in
> your address book including the mailing list.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 1:39 AM, Ed Reiss <ed.reiss at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Sexy-time right now!.
> > http://alaxotodizayn.com/page.friend.php?anjgoogleId=05b8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 20:16:21 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 10:16:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 2
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJ5eg72RFRTdoqtUDms9gSa-BioDFgHVcHdeZO=1Jwv8A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL116-W16AC86505D3D129A1FC3E59E1B0@phx.gbl>
	<CAPTa0B6e0i7_-F2GtJpq2R=WdE9du_9O9oKD==XYjsEihtLogA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJ5eg72RFRTdoqtUDms9gSa-BioDFgHVcHdeZO=1Jwv8A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLx-1a=G7oK9WopoQYPkQCQ+vwvpRv+05ZqNGfjdZcYSA@mail.gmail.com>

Certainly a virus and trojan check is in order.  That being said these
things are pretty sophisticated and Ed may be just on the address list of
the real person's infected computer.  Note that Ed Reiss is using hotmail,
almost never a source of an infected account.

On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 6:42 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Ed--
>>
>> Someone has gotten into your computer is sending spam to the contacts in
>> your address book including the mailing list.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep  3 20:17:37 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 19:17:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale
In-Reply-To: <D3160612-4B2B-4EFC-B950-C3BE7EC6B0E5@yahoo.com>
References: <6B2307BC61634B189A1B5D9232F5F8CD@WORLDCARS>
	<4E5AAAA9.2060306@gmail.com>
	<CAAh8et=RSQucFT5hMR7Hco_4o6YajXb-UWnHxXS9R45Fm248fw@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E289D9D-EAFF-42D9-92BC-66B48890E64A@sbcglobal.net>
	<D3160612-4B2B-4EFC-B950-C3BE7EC6B0E5@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E62DFC1.2030604@comcast.net>

It's not?

http://www.classictradespace.com/results2.asp?vid=258


On 9/3/2011 6:28 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:
> as a member of the list I'd say That was not a trade ad. Anyway, when I get
> the cash I'll be posting, wanted: 100/4. M, S or neither, any condition.
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2011, at 11:34 AM, David Nock<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>  wrote:
>
>> What is wrong with the way he did it. No different than some of the stupid
> Friday funnies that have nothing to do with a LBC. As well as the other misc
> things that are posted on this list that have nothing to do with a Healey.
>> If it is information that you can use to better the marque or get another
> Healey on the road whats the big deal.
>> You have a button on the keyboard labeled DELETE use it if it isnt of your
> interest.
>>
>> On Aug 28, 2011, at 2:08 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>>
>>> NO!
>>>
>>> Derek
>>>
>>> On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Bob<jagxk120 at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Is the list for trade ads?
>>>> B
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Le 28/08/11 22:40, classic trade space a icrit :
>>>>
>>>>> we have a nice 1957 100/6 for sale if any one has interest email m and i
>>>>> will
>>>>> send details.
>>>>> ___________________________
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  3 21:01:31 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 20:01:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
Message-ID: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever the
overdrive engages fine.

2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
Which one goes
on top and which one goes on bottom ?

3. If I do the test with a lamp as
described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the manual... when
the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.

4.
having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th gear,
when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the dashboard I
can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.

5. Same as point #
4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.

6. the
solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.

7. Is there a
way to test the overdrive relay ?

All ideas are welcomed including the ones
like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff

Thanks

a
very dissapointed Jose ....


 
Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321
3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota,
Colombia

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Sat Sep  3 22:34:35 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 21:34:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1315110875.74612.YahooMailRC@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jose,
I went looking for 'the test with a lamp as described on the manual'.
I cannot find it.  Were you using the instructions for the BN1 
overdrive
electrics?  They are very different.

In the manual on page D/4 of the BN2
Supplement 
it takes you through six tests that use no tools except for a
jumper 
wire (lead). There is also a helpful circuit diagram of the overdrive
system.  

Test the Solenoid by powering it directly from fuse 
supply
terminal A3.  You should hear the solenoid operate.  Test the 
Gear switch by
engaging top gear, depress the throttle pedal and 
momentarily connect relay
terminal C2 to fuse supply terminal A3. 
You should hear the solenoid operate.
Test the Relay Coil by 
momentarily connecting relay terminal W1 to terminal
A3.  
The relay should be heard to operate.  Test the toggle switch by
operating it.  You should hear the relay.  Test the Relay Contacts 
with top
gear engaged, toggle switch closed and throttle switch 
open, the solenoid
should be heard to operate.  If no sound is 
heard the relay is defective.
Test the throttle switch by 
engaging top gear and close toggle switch.
Slowly depress 
accelerator.  The solenoid should be energized from zero 
to
one-quarter throttle.  If the solenoid is heard to release 
under one-
quarter throttle the throttle switch is 'defective' 
(maybe just needs
adjustment).

Hope this helps.

-Roland
BN1



----- Original Message ----
>
From: Josi Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
> To: Healey List
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, September 3, 2011 8:01:31 PM
> Subject:
[Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
> 
> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I
get under the car and pull the lever  the
> overdrive engages fine.
> 
> 2. Do
the cables (white with purple and  white with
> green) that go in the throtle
switch have an specific order  ?
> Which one goes
> on top and which one goes
on bottom ?
> 
> 3. If I do  the test with a lamp as
> described on the manual
I get the exact opposite  results of the manual... 
when
> the light shoul go
off it tuns on and when it  should be on it turns off.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 23:33:14 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 13:33:14 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJbWU+2RQnWr7ACR0UG_EQkNREZcnZ6Qu687MdDRREUtA@mail.gmail.com>

Jose -

The solenoid needs to be adjusted to move the lever to a very specific
position.  Have you followed the manual adjustment procedure?

Alan

On 9/4/11, Josi Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever the
> overdrive engages fine.
>
> 2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
> green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
> Which one goes
> on top and which one goes on bottom ?
>
> 3. If I do the test with a lamp as
> described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the manual...
> when
> the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.
>
> 4.
> having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th gear,
> when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the
dashboard
> I
> can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.
>
> 5. Same as point #
> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>
> 6. the
> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>
> 7. Is there a
> way to test the overdrive relay ?
>
> All ideas are welcomed including the ones
> like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff
>
> Thanks
>
> a
> very dissapointed Jose ....
>
>
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas
> Musmi
>
>
> Tel. (571) 321
> 3740
> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
> Skype: jovivago
>
>
> www.musme.net
>
>
> Bogota,
> Colombia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

--
Sent from my mobile device

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sat Sep  3 23:48:12 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 21:48:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Bad_running_due_to_ethanol_in_gas=3F?=
In-Reply-To: <4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>

Geez Bob, according to the link you sent, there are 4 stations in California that sell non-ethanol gas - the closest one to me is in Ridgecrest, 150 miles - hardly a solution. 

If you'd actually read my post below, you would see that I didn't say my 8% ethanol gas was over-mixed, I only said there's an incentive for distributors to over-mix ethanol into gas. It may indeed be over mixed for Healeys, though. Do you know what the ethanol percentage was of the gas we were typically running, say, a year or two ago was?

What I'm saying here is my car and those of others I know are running somewhat badly now and I suspect the gas may be the problem. 

Just because 10% is allowed, which was presumably arrived at in coordination with the current car manufacturers, doesn't mean it will run in our old carbureted cars without problems.

-- 
Steve Gerow



>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>  To: Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
>  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
>  Sent: Sep 03 '11 17:51
>  
>  Let's see ... my car runs bad, my gas has ethanol; therefore, ethanol is the cause of the bad running.  I know science
>  is unpopular these days, but that doesn't mean it doesn't still apply.  Try this: empty your tank as much as possible,
>  then buy a tank of gas that doesn't have any ethanol--it's still available: http://pure-gas.org/.  If your car stops
>  running badly, you've proved your hypothesis; if not, time to look elsewhere for the cause of the problem.
>  
>  The vapor pressure of gasoline--it's measured by Reid Vapor Pressure
>  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reid_Vapor_Pressure)--varies during the course of the year; lower in summer, higher in
>  winter (usually).  It's closely monitored and controlled to reduce vapor loss and hence smog and, yes, the formulators
>  consider its effect on combustion (that's why the VP is higher in the winter).
>  
>  10% ethanol is allowed; how is 8% 'over-mixed?'
>  
>  FWIW, the oil industry people I've heard espouse on the subject hate having to put any ethanol at all in their
>  gasoline--they want to sell petroleum, not moonshine.
>  
>  Bob
>  
>  
>  
>  On 9/3/2011 5:17 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>  > Lately I've been experiencing bad running - loading up on taking off from a stop sign. Better in cool weather, worse in hot weather. It's like the fuel is now more volatile and vapor-locks at a lower temperature.
>  >
>  > A number of other collector-car drivers have mentioned similar problems.
>  >
>  > I did online research and bought an inexpensive kit which reveals the percentage of ethanol in the gas.
>  >
>  > My last tank, Unocal 76 Regular, which ran badly, turned out to be 8% ethanol.
>  >
>  > Pictures of the test, the kit and a link to the supplier's website which has lots of information on ethanol in gas, and how tax breaks are incentivizing suppliers to over-mix to a higher percentage of ethanol than is allowed by law.
>  >
>  > http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech
>  >
>  
>  
>  --
>  *******************************************************************
>  Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>  
>  *******************************************************************

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 00:26:27 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 08:26:27 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <487A1736-46F7-4401-A098-713ACE66E382@aol.com>
References: <487A1736-46F7-4401-A098-713ACE66E382@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBNB5ft6B0duS+b=v2=oxzR_6+5s8X9ZM0UKVuJM_EtUA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

You can cheat some extent, if You lower the front end of the front shroud a
bit and lover the front of the front wings as well.
This will give You a bad gap on the front of the door (big gap on the top,
small on the bottom.
You have to modify the door sopport to raise the goor a bit (easy way adding
a sim under the lower door hinge).  A couple of mms lowering the front can
make huge difference.  With some time and luck, this will cure the problem.

Gergo

2011/9/4 Chris Masucci <csooch1 at aol.com>

> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > It's been a while since I have posted but I am now getting back to
> working
> on the Healey after a 6 year hiatus.  Had a Son, purchased an older home,
> etc.
> >
> > The car is the same 1966 BJ8 and I am finally to the point of fitting
> panels.  The front fender to door gaps are good.  The rear fender to door
> gaps
> have the standard small gap up top and bigger gap at bottom indicative of
> frame sagging or damage.  I knew this when I bought the car.  All of the
> rust
> has been cut out and some frame sections capped.  I have removed the
> temporarily welded in rear inner body panel for the shut pillar and the
> rear
> seat pan, which needed replacing anyway.  I am now working on straightening
> the rear section of the frame.  The car is supported on the front hubs and
> at
> the frame right at the rear outriggers.  I am pressing down on the rear
> most
> part of the frame in the boot with bottle jacks.
> >
> > I have been able to open the door gaps on both sides so that I have 3/10"
> bigger gap up top versus the bottom on both sides.  My question is, do you
> think that is enough for me to start tacking in the rest of the inner body
> panel and rear frame caps for strength?  I have heard rumors of opening to
> a
> delta of 3/16", welding and, and then when supported by all the wheels it
> should sag somewhere close to even gaps.  I had planned on lightly tacking
> in
> the new metal and then jacking the car by the rear axle to see where the
> gaps
> closed, kind of by trial and error.  Wondering if I am at a good starting
> point.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From info at classictradespace.com  Sun Sep  4 01:33:46 2011
From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 08:33:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 110/6 you
Message-ID: <1B514E406CA54E2FBE2FA2785CC3EC71@WORLDCARS>

As you all no i posted a small message on the list last week for a 100/6 that
was for sale, it was not a mini or a jaguar it was an Austin Healey, i posted
on the list as i have been a list member for a long time now and read and
receive all the posts,  the response to the 100/6 for sale was mixed even
though i assumed i was helping any one looking for a healey in there search,
the web site www.classictradespace.com is a site you can lists your cars on
for free and no financial gain is made by me if you list a car for sale so
even though a lot of you assumed it was a trade advert with the intention of
finantial gain i would just like to make it clear that it was not and on a
different note you are welcome to list your cars for sale free of charge and
there is a resources section that is also free where you can list any web
sites you wish that relate to classic cars.

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Sep  4 01:41:18 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 02:41:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 2
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLx-1a=G7oK9WopoQYPkQCQ+vwvpRv+05ZqNGfjdZcYSA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL116-W16AC86505D3D129A1FC3E59E1B0@phx.gbl>
	<CAPTa0B6e0i7_-F2GtJpq2R=WdE9du_9O9oKD==XYjsEihtLogA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJ5eg72RFRTdoqtUDms9gSa-BioDFgHVcHdeZO=1Jwv8A@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkLx-1a=G7oK9WopoQYPkQCQ+vwvpRv+05ZqNGfjdZcYSA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E632B9E.2070904@justbrits.com>

Very UN-fortunately Alan;

<< ....is using hotmail, almost never a source of an infected account. >>

that statement is becoming less so at a bad pace.   Seems
a**hole has found a 'key' <VBF> !!

I've seen half dozen plus on POS yahoo,  couple on some of
my Lists and two on gMail.  Didn't pay attention until third
or forth on POS yahoo.   At least bigger POS aol can still
brag they were FIRST <G> ! ! !

Ed

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sun Sep  4 04:02:24 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 12:02:24 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>

Josi
It seems to me that your cut out switch is incorrectly adjusted. The 
purpose of this switch is to keep the overdrive engaged when you flip 
the dashboard switch to the off position, provided the accelerator pedal 
is not used. Then when you accelerate the overdrive should disengage. 
This is to protect the overdrive from being disengaged while the wheels 
are driving the engine.
The cut out switch is the thing with two wires attached that is operated 
by the throttle. To adjust it, slacken the screw that holds the lever to 
the axle. The axle has a cam that breaks the current when the throttle 
pedal is depressed. Adjust it accordingly, e.g. when the throttle pedal 
is depressed to about 20% the current should be cut off. Be careful, I 
have come across one cut out switch that was incorrectly adjusted and 
fried the wiring harness, so use an ohmmeter when you do this.
It's your point 4 that triggered this conclusion. Not using the 
accelerator the overdrive should engage when the gear lever is in 
3rd/4th and the dashboard switch is turned on, and stay there engaged 
when you turn the dashboard switch off.

Per in Sweden

Josi Vicente Vargas skrev 2011-09-04 05:01:
> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever the
> overdrive engages fine.
>
> 2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
> green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
> Which one goes
> on top and which one goes on bottom ?
>
> 3. If I do the test with a lamp as
> described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the manual... when
> the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.
>
> 4.
> having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th gear,
> when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the dashboard I
> can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.
>
> 5. Same as point #
> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>
> 6. the
> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>
> 7. Is there a
> way to test the overdrive relay ?
>
> All ideas are welcomed including the ones
> like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff
>
> Thanks
>
> a
> very dissapointed Jose ....
>
>
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas
> Musmi
>
>
> Tel. (571) 321
> 3740
> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
> Skype: jovivago
>
>
> www.musme.net
>
>
> Bogota,
> Colombia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3874 - Release Date: 09/03/11

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Sep  4 06:56:43 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 8:56:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 110/6 you
In-Reply-To: <1B514E406CA54E2FBE2FA2785CC3EC71@WORLDCARS>
Message-ID: <20110904085643.R28US.21250.root@pamxwww05-z01>

Having said all that, I think we ALL would love to know YOUR name.  We like knowing who we are talking to.

Tom Felts


---- classic trade space <info at classictradespace.com> wrote: 

=============
As you all no i posted a small message on the list last week for a 100/6 that
was for sale, it was not a mini or a jaguar it was an Austin Healey, i posted
on the list as i have been a list member for a long time now and read and
receive all the posts,  the response to the 100/6 for sale was mixed even
though i assumed i was helping any one looking for a healey in there search,
the web site www.classictradespace.com is a site you can lists your cars on
for free and no financial gain is made by me if you list a car for sale so
even though a lot of you assumed it was a trade advert with the intention of
finantial gain i would just like to make it clear that it was not and on a
different note you are welcome to list your cars for sale free of charge and
there is a resources section that is also free where you can list any web
sites you wish that relate to classic cars.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep  4 07:31:46 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 06:31:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 110/6 you
In-Reply-To: <1B514E406CA54E2FBE2FA2785CC3EC71@WORLDCARS>
References: <1B514E406CA54E2FBE2FA2785CC3EC71@WORLDCARS>
Message-ID: <4E637DC2.6020500@comcast.net>

What's your name?

Bob



On 9/4/2011 12:33 AM, classic trade space wrote:
> As you all no i posted a small message on the list last week for a 100/6 that
> was for sale, it was not a mini or a jaguar it was an Austin Healey, i posted
> on the list as i have been a list member for a long time now and read and
> receive all the posts,  the response to the 100/6 for sale was mixed even
> though i assumed i was helping any one looking for a healey in there search,
> the web site www.classictradespace.com is a site you can lists your cars on
> for free and no financial gain is made by me if you list a car for sale so
> even though a lot of you assumed it was a trade advert with the intention of
> finantial gain i would just like to make it clear that it was not and on a
> different note you are welcome to list your cars for sale free of charge and
> there is a resources section that is also free where you can list any web
> sites you wish that relate to classic cars.
> _______________________________________________
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Sun Sep  4 07:43:57 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 09:43:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey
In-Reply-To: <74DCE96F-76D7-474D-8127-6F4825C23D93@gmail.com>
References: <74DCE96F-76D7-474D-8127-6F4825C23D93@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE391FD473B544-1990-45166@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>

Check out this link...


http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id63.html




-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14 at gmail.com>
To: Healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 3, 2011 7:51 pm
Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey


Went for a ride in Martin Jansens 100-4 supercharged V12 today. I  have now
found the perfect  engine for my next project, just need to find a pile of
money to fund it. A beautiful car with acceleration  that resembles the
airbus
320 I fly daily. Should be on every healey hot rodder's want list. Not for
everyone but for me yes. The car is     nicely displayed on his website ,Jule
Enterprises

Cheers Phil


Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep  4 07:54:21 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 06:54:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>

Sorry, guess I was a little snarky and, believe me, I'm not a fan of ethanol in gasoline (I think it's one of the 
biggest shams ever perpetrated on the American public).  I just don't like to see people making associations without 
evidence (there's enough weird crap going on for real I don't need to make stuff up).

In my immediate family we have: a 1919 Seagrave Pumper fire engine, a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck, a 1955 T-Bird, a 1965 
Mustang, a couple old Ford tractors and, of course, our 2 Healeys (BJ8 and 100M).  All are carbureted (various types) 
and all run fine on California gas which, it can be assumed, contain up to 10% ethanol (all run on 87-octane except my 
BJ8, which usually gets premium).   I just put 4,000+ miles on the BJ8 buying gas in several states and two Canadian 
provinces without a single problem.  I bought a tank of premium in Burns, OR which did not contain any ethanol; I 
thought wow, we'll really see a difference with 'pure' gas.  No discernible difference in performance or even mileage (I 
thought we might get an 'extra' mpg or so).   Problems with gasahol in fuel tanks, old rubber lines, diaphragms, etc. I 
can believe.

I'm the curious type, so if I thought the gas was the problem in my car I'd drive the 150 miles--that would pretty much 
empty the tank--and buy a tank of pure gas, then drive it home.  If my car ran as it should on the way home then I'd say 
there's a high probability of causation; if not, I'd have to look elsewhere for the problem.

I'm also not a fan of conspiracy theories; I don't believe refiners or distributors--I suspect the ethanol is blended at 
the refinery--would risk adding illegal amounts of ethanol, then admit it in order to get 'tax breaks.'  AFAIK, only 
corn farmers and the distillers are getting tax breaks.

Bob


On 9/3/2011 10:48 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
> Geez Bob, according to the link you sent, there are 4 stations in California that sell non-ethanol gas - the closest one to me is in Ridgecrest, 150 miles - hardly a solution.
>
> If you'd actually read my post below, you would see that I didn't say my 8% ethanol gas was over-mixed, I only said there's an incentive for distributors to over-mix ethanol into gas. It may indeed be over mixed for Healeys, though. Do you know what the ethanol percentage was of the gas we were typically running, say, a year or two ago was?
>
> What I'm saying here is my car and those of others I know are running somewhat badly now and I suspect the gas may be the problem.
>
> Just because 10% is allowed, which was presumably arrived at in coordination with the current car manufacturers, doesn't mean it will run in our old carbureted cars without problems.
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 07:56:03 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 15:56:03 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmB2yv=vX3zvv7JP5By4B=1qPOdYQiqX0ktyCLhBxCrwKQ@mail.gmail.com>

...OR just like me, You have assembled the throttle linkage incorrectly, and
it is pushing the arm of the switch up instead of pulling it down.

Gergo


2011/9/4 Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>

> Josi
> It seems to me that your cut out switch is incorrectly adjusted. The
> purpose of this switch is to keep the overdrive engaged when you flip the
> dashboard switch to the off position, provided the accelerator pedal is not
> used. Then when you accelerate the overdrive should disengage. This is to
> protect the overdrive from being disengaged while the wheels are driving the
> engine.
> The cut out switch is the thing with two wires attached that is operated by
> the throttle. To adjust it, slacken the screw that holds the lever to the
> axle. The axle has a cam that breaks the current when the throttle pedal is
> depressed. Adjust it accordingly, e.g. when the throttle pedal is depressed
> to about 20% the current should be cut off. Be careful, I have come across
> one cut out switch that was incorrectly adjusted and fried the wiring
> harness, so use an ohmmeter when you do this.
> It's your point 4 that triggered this conclusion. Not using the accelerator
> the overdrive should engage when the gear lever is in 3rd/4th and the
> dashboard switch is turned on, and stay there engaged when you turn the
> dashboard switch off.
>
> Per in Sweden
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas skrev 2011-09-04 05:01:
>
>> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever the
>> overdrive engages fine.
>>
>> 2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
>> green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
>> Which one goes
>> on top and which one goes on bottom ?
>>
>> 3. If I do the test with a lamp as
>> described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the manual...
>> when
>> the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.
>>
>> 4.
>> having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th gear,
>> when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the
>> dashboard I
>> can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.
>>
>> 5. Same as point #
>> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>>
>> 6. the
>> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>>
>> 7. Is there a
>> way to test the overdrive relay ?
>>
>> All ideas are welcomed including the ones
>> like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> a
>> very dissapointed Jose ....
>>
>>
>>
>> Josi Vicente Vargas
>> Musmi
>>
>>
>> Tel. (571) 321
>> 3740
>> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
>> Skype: jovivago
>>
>>
>> www.musme.net
>>
>>
>> Bogota,
>> Colombia
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/healeyguy@**bredband.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3874 - Release Date: 09/03/11
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 08:22:21 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 07:22:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey
In-Reply-To: <8CE391FD473B544-1990-45166@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1315146141.76547.YahooMailClassic@web161210.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

And this one:  http://www.britishv8.org/Other/MartinJansen.htm  A beautiful
piece of planning, design, fabrication and execution by Marty.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 9/4/11, npaul72464 at aol.com <npaul72464 at aol.com> wrote:

From: npaul72464 at aol.com <npaul72464 at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] V12 Healey
To: pjarrett14 at gmail.com, Healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, September 4, 2011, 9:43 AM

Check out this link...


http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id63.html

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 08:25:37 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 16:25:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBcHrYH-i7tP7+1ervnW8nCzd5kAFVoDOqPNXheaWh5Yg@mail.gmail.com>

Off...

Sorry to ask, but what does it mean "tax break"?

Gergo

2011/9/4 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>

> Sorry, guess I was a little snarky and, believe me, I'm not a fan of
> ethanol in gasoline (I think it's one of the biggest shams ever perpetrated
> on the American public).  I just don't like to see people making
> associations without evidence (there's enough weird crap going on for real I
> don't need to make stuff up).
>
> In my immediate family we have: a 1919 Seagrave Pumper fire engine, a 1946
> Chevy 2-ton truck, a 1955 T-Bird, a 1965 Mustang, a couple old Ford tractors
> and, of course, our 2 Healeys (BJ8 and 100M).  All are carbureted (various
> types) and all run fine on California gas which, it can be assumed, contain
> up to 10% ethanol (all run on 87-octane except my BJ8, which usually gets
> premium).   I just put 4,000+ miles on the BJ8 buying gas in several states
> and two Canadian provinces without a single problem.  I bought a tank of
> premium in Burns, OR which did not contain any ethanol; I thought wow, we'll
> really see a difference with 'pure' gas.  No discernible difference in
> performance or even mileage (I thought we might get an 'extra' mpg or so).
> Problems with gasahol in fuel tanks, old rubber lines, diaphragms, etc. I
> can believe.
>
> I'm the curious type, so if I thought the gas was the problem in my car I'd
> drive the 150 miles--that would pretty much empty the tank--and buy a tank
> of pure gas, then drive it home.  If my car ran as it should on the way home
> then I'd say there's a high probability of causation; if not, I'd have to
> look elsewhere for the problem.
>
> I'm also not a fan of conspiracy theories; I don't believe refiners or
> distributors--I suspect the ethanol is blended at the refinery--would risk
> adding illegal amounts of ethanol, then admit it in order to get 'tax
> breaks.'  AFAIK, only corn farmers and the distillers are getting tax
> breaks.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 9/3/2011 10:48 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>
>> Geez Bob, according to the link you sent, there are 4 stations in
>> California that sell non-ethanol gas - the closest one to me is in
>> Ridgecrest, 150 miles - hardly a solution.
>>
>> If you'd actually read my post below, you would see that I didn't say my
>> 8% ethanol gas was over-mixed, I only said there's an incentive for
>> distributors to over-mix ethanol into gas. It may indeed be over mixed for
>> Healeys, though. Do you know what the ethanol percentage was of the gas we
>> were typically running, say, a year or two ago was?
>>
>> What I'm saying here is my car and those of others I know are running
>> somewhat badly now and I suspect the gas may be the problem.
>>
>> Just because 10% is allowed, which was presumably arrived at in
>> coordination with the current car manufacturers, doesn't mean it will run in
>> our old carbureted cars without problems.
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Sep  4 08:32:22 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 16:32:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <BLU161-W23BBDE5C0B5EE5679691159C180@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU161-W23BBDE5C0B5EE5679691159C180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E638BF6.5080108@chello.nl>

Watch out with tire sales. Make sure you read the production date on 
them first and do not buy any tires older than about 2 years. You will 
still have 5-7 years use out of them.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 08:37:48 2011
From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 07:37:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator
Message-ID: <1315147068.81153.YahooMailClassic@web120101.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i have a 3000 bj8 adjustable steering i need a trafficator any help locating one even parts

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep  4 08:51:39 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 07:51:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmBcHrYH-i7tP7+1ervnW8nCzd5kAFVoDOqPNXheaWh5Yg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>
	<CA+QDXmBcHrYH-i7tP7+1ervnW8nCzd5kAFVoDOqPNXheaWh5Yg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E63907B.5030803@comcast.net>

Hoo boy ...

In America, we are vehemently anti-socialist, so when our politicians and the lobbyists who own them want to subsidize 
(aka 'socialize') a particular constituency they will often give them a special tax deduction--a 'tax break'--in order 
to reward them for giving support ($$$) to and voting for the politicians, who will reward them again, and so on.  Both 
major political parties--Democratic and Republican--do this while claiming it's for the 'good of the country' in some 
way or another.

A 'tax deduction' effectively reduces net income, and since our tax system is somewhat progressive--at least is used to 
be--if your income is reduced you will pay less--sometimes a lot less--in taxes (a 'progressive' tax system doesn't mean 
it's enlightened, just that you're supposed to pay taxes at a higher rate if you make more money).

BTW, a 'lobbyist' is a person or organization paid--by a group that has an interest in some political topic--to 
'encourage' politicians to see the wisdom of giving their constituency what they want (you might know this process as 
'bribery').  Yes, it stinks but that's the level we've sunk to here in the USofA.


Bob



On 9/4/2011 7:25 AM, Austin Healey wrote:
> Off...
>
> Sorry to ask, but what does it mean "tax break"?
>
> Gergo
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sun Sep  4 08:54:29 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 06:54:29 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Bad_running_due_to_ethanol_in_gas=3F?=
In-Reply-To: <4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20110904145429.2428.qmail@hoster902.com>

Bob,
I wasn't intending to pass my assertion off as "science". Wanted to put it out in front of the group and see if anyone else feels like they're experiencing the same issue.

I've been having these problems for maybe three months and have a hunch about the gas. This may be wrong and I'll figure it out after a while.

I followed up on my hunch by purchasing the test kit ($30 approx). I'm now going to embark on a program of testing the fuels I buy at different stations. Different grades, too.

It would be useful information if some other drivers would test their gas, find a similar percentage of ethanol, and report whether their cars are running differently.
-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6
Altadena, CA


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>  To: Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
>  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
>  Sent: Sep 04 '11 05:54
>  
>  Sorry, guess I was a little snarky and, believe me, I'm not a fan of ethanol in gasoline (I think it's one of the
>  biggest shams ever perpetrated on the American public).  I just don't like to see people making associations without
>  evidence (there's enough weird crap going on for real I don't need to make stuff up).
>  
>  In my immediate family we have: a 1919 Seagrave Pumper fire engine, a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck, a 1955 T-Bird, a 1965
>  Mustang, a couple old Ford tractors and, of course, our 2 Healeys (BJ8 and 100M).  All are carbureted (various types)
>  and all run fine on California gas which, it can be assumed, contain up to 10% ethanol (all run on 87-octane except my
>  BJ8, which usually gets premium).   I just put 4,000+ miles on the BJ8 buying gas in several states and two Canadian
>  provinces without a single problem.  I bought a tank of premium in Burns, OR which did not contain any ethanol; I
>  thought wow, we'll really see a difference with 'pure' gas.  No discernible difference in performance or even mileage (I
>  thought we might get an 'extra' mpg or so).   Problems with gasahol in fuel tanks, old rubber lines, diaphragms, etc. I
>  can believe.
>  
>  I'm the curious type, so if I thought the gas was the problem in my car I'd drive the 150 miles--that would pretty much
>  empty the tank--and buy a tank of pure gas, then drive it home.  If my car ran as it should on the way home then I'd say
>  there's a high probability of causation; if not, I'd have to look elsewhere for the problem.
>  
>  I'm also not a fan of conspiracy theories; I don't believe refiners or distributors--I suspect the ethanol is blended at
>  the refinery--would risk adding illegal amounts of ethanol, then admit it in order to get 'tax breaks.'  AFAIK, only
>  corn farmers and the distillers are getting tax breaks.
>  
>  Bob
>  
>  
>  On 9/3/2011 10:48 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>  > Geez Bob, according to the link you sent, there are 4 stations in California that sell non-ethanol gas - the closest one to me is in Ridgecrest, 150 miles - hardly a solution.
>  >
>  > If you'd actually read my post below, you would see that I didn't say my 8% ethanol gas was over-mixed, I only said there's an incentive for distributors to over-mix ethanol into gas. It may indeed be over mixed for Healeys, though. Do you know what the ethanol percentage was of the gas we were typically running, say, a year or two ago was?
>  >
>  > What I'm saying here is my car and those of others I know are running somewhat badly now and I suspect the gas may be the problem.
>  >
>  > Just because 10% is allowed, which was presumably arrived at in coordination with the current car manufacturers, doesn't mean it will run in our old carbureted cars without problems.
>  >
>  
>  
>  --
>  *******************************************************************
>  Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>  
>  *******************************************************************

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  4 09:35:55 2011
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 11:35:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W8EAF442A94F3C7F9D8A37C81A0@phx.gbl>

Josi,
>From this statement it seems that you may have 2 problems (or more).
1.  The throttle control relay is adjusted wrong-that has been addressed.

2.  It sounds like since the overdrive does not work when the engine is
running I think you are saying that you hear all the proper engagement noises
but the OD doesn't mechanically/hydraulically engage.  This could be caused by
many issues;  the solenoid adjustment may be wrong not letting the operating
valve which is attached to the lever open enough, also the OD pump may not be
working properly due to the cam not engaging the pump roler (have you had the
OD and tranny separated just prior to this problem?)  The OD mechanism has to
reach a certain pressure to cause it to engage and remain engaged and the
pressure needs to be checked to diagnose these issues if all the electrical
and mechanical (solenoid) functions are correct.  I know this is a pain but it
has to be done so you'll have the enjoyment the OD.  They offer very little
trouble once you get them correct--it's worth the hassle right now to get it
right.

Take care,

George Haywood
'65 bj8


> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
     >
> 6. the
> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.

> Josi Vicente Vargas
> Musmi

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 09:59:53 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 10:59:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmB2yv=vX3zvv7JP5By4B=1qPOdYQiqX0ktyCLhBxCrwKQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>
	<CA+QDXmB2yv=vX3zvv7JP5By4B=1qPOdYQiqX0ktyCLhBxCrwKQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A565AA82-04FB-4681-9F66-334EB1C3744D@yahoo.com>

The arm of the throtle switch is travelling up when I accelarate.... This is
wrong ?

Jose



Sent from my iPad


On Sep 4, 2011, at 8:56 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> ...OR just like me, You have assembled the throttle linkage incorrectly,
and
> it is pushing the arm of the switch up instead of pulling it down.
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2011/9/4 Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>
>
>> Josi
>> It seems to me that your cut out switch is incorrectly adjusted. The
>> purpose of this switch is to keep the overdrive engaged when you flip the
>> dashboard switch to the off position, provided the accelerator pedal is
not
>> used. Then when you accelerate the overdrive should disengage. This is to
>> protect the overdrive from being disengaged while the wheels are driving
the
>> engine.
>> The cut out switch is the thing with two wires attached that is operated
by
>> the throttle. To adjust it, slacken the screw that holds the lever to the
>> axle. The axle has a cam that breaks the current when the throttle pedal
is
>> depressed. Adjust it accordingly, e.g. when the throttle pedal is
depressed
>> to about 20% the current should be cut off. Be careful, I have come across
>> one cut out switch that was incorrectly adjusted and fried the wiring
>> harness, so use an ohmmeter when you do this.
>> It's your point 4 that triggered this conclusion. Not using the
accelerator
>> the overdrive should engage when the gear lever is in 3rd/4th and the
>> dashboard switch is turned on, and stay there engaged when you turn the
>> dashboard switch off.
>>
>> Per in Sweden
>>
>> Josi Vicente Vargas skrev 2011-09-04 05:01:
>>
>>> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever the
>>> overdrive engages fine.
>>>
>>> 2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
>>> green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
>>> Which one goes
>>> on top and which one goes on bottom ?
>>>
>>> 3. If I do the test with a lamp as
>>> described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the manual...
>>> when
>>> the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.
>>>
>>> 4.
>>> having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th
gear,
>>> when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the
>>> dashboard I
>>> can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.
>>>
>>> 5. Same as point #
>>> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>>>
>>> 6. the
>>> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>>>
>>> 7. Is there a
>>> way to test the overdrive relay ?
>>>
>>> All ideas are welcomed including the ones
>>> like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> a
>>> very dissapointed Jose ....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Josi Vicente Vargas
>>> Musmi
>>>
>>>
>>> Tel. (571) 321
>>> 3740
>>> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
>>> Skype: jovivago
>>>
>>>
>>> www.musme.net
>>>
>>>
>>> Bogota,
>>> Colombia
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>>
options/healeys/healeyguy@**bredband.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/option
s/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3874 - Release Date: 09/03/11
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/
healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep  4 09:59:59 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 08:59:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <20110904145429.2428.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>
	<20110904145429.2428.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <4E63A07F.8010206@comcast.net>

Steve,

Sounds like a worthwhile experiment.  If you can prove an association between ethanol content and poor running engines 
I'd be interested.  Also, if some suppliers are exceeding the 10% limit your local consumer affairs bureau should be 
notified (if they haven't been laid off).

One problem is that 'poor running' is subjective.  Since you already have a 'hunch' that the fuel is causing your 
problems you will likely attribute any miss, stumble, etc. to the fuel.  The only way to get an objective reading that I 
can think of is to put your car on a dynamometer and try the different fuels.  You can also track mileage closely, but 
that is an indirect indicator at best.

I've given one data set but, again, it's subjective (except for the mileage figures for the BJ8, which we've tracked for 
over 16 years of extended trips).  I've noticed a slight problem that could be mild vapor lock if I drive on a warm day, 
shut the engine down for a half-hour or so then restart.   Seems to be a recent (last few years) phenomenon, and doesn't 
happen after a briefer (up to 15min.) shutdown.

Also, I assume you have a modern, computer-controlled EFI auto as a backup for your Healey.  Have you tried the same 
fuel in your BJ9?  Modern cars are designed to accommodate a variety of fuels--my Mustang will run on 87-octane but 
prefers premium (or better)--but a problem with combustion might be detected and logged by the ECM.

My 'hunch' would be that--if you're buying your fuel from the same station--there could be contamination (e.g. water) in 
the fuel or the fuel is 'stale.'

Bob


On 9/4/2011 7:54 AM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
> Bob,
> I wasn't intending to pass my assertion off as "science". Wanted to put it out in front of the group and see if anyone else feels like they're experiencing the same issue.
>
> I've been having these problems for maybe three months and have a hunch about the gas. This may be wrong and I'll figure it out after a while.
>
> I followed up on my hunch by purchasing the test kit ($30 approx). I'm now going to embark on a program of testing the fuels I buy at different stations. Different grades, too.
>
> It would be useful information if some other drivers would test their gas, find a similar percentage of ethanol, and report whether their cars are running differently.


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 09:59:53 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 10:59:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmB2yv=vX3zvv7JP5By4B=1qPOdYQiqX0ktyCLhBxCrwKQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>
	<CA+QDXmB2yv=vX3zvv7JP5By4B=1qPOdYQiqX0ktyCLhBxCrwKQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A565AA82-04FB-4681-9F66-334EB1C3744D@yahoo.com>

The arm of the throtle switch is travelling up when I accelarate.... This is
wrong ?

Jose



Sent from my iPad


On Sep 4, 2011, at 8:56 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> ...OR just like me, You have assembled the throttle linkage incorrectly,
and
> it is pushing the arm of the switch up instead of pulling it down.
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2011/9/4 Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>
>
>> Josi
>> It seems to me that your cut out switch is incorrectly adjusted. The
>> purpose of this switch is to keep the overdrive engaged when you flip the
>> dashboard switch to the off position, provided the accelerator pedal is
not
>> used. Then when you accelerate the overdrive should disengage. This is to
>> protect the overdrive from being disengaged while the wheels are driving
the
>> engine.
>> The cut out switch is the thing with two wires attached that is operated
by
>> the throttle. To adjust it, slacken the screw that holds the lever to the
>> axle. The axle has a cam that breaks the current when the throttle pedal
is
>> depressed. Adjust it accordingly, e.g. when the throttle pedal is
depressed
>> to about 20% the current should be cut off. Be careful, I have come across
>> one cut out switch that was incorrectly adjusted and fried the wiring
>> harness, so use an ohmmeter when you do this.
>> It's your point 4 that triggered this conclusion. Not using the
accelerator
>> the overdrive should engage when the gear lever is in 3rd/4th and the
>> dashboard switch is turned on, and stay there engaged when you turn the
>> dashboard switch off.
>>
>> Per in Sweden
>>
>> Josi Vicente Vargas skrev 2011-09-04 05:01:
>>
>>> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever the
>>> overdrive engages fine.
>>>
>>> 2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
>>> green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
>>> Which one goes
>>> on top and which one goes on bottom ?
>>>
>>> 3. If I do the test with a lamp as
>>> described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the manual...
>>> when
>>> the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.
>>>
>>> 4.
>>> having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th
gear,
>>> when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the
>>> dashboard I
>>> can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.
>>>
>>> 5. Same as point #
>>> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>>>
>>> 6. the
>>> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>>>
>>> 7. Is there a
>>> way to test the overdrive relay ?
>>>
>>> All ideas are welcomed including the ones
>>> like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> a
>>> very dissapointed Jose ....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Josi Vicente Vargas
>>> Musmi
>>>
>>>
>>> Tel. (571) 321
>>> 3740
>>> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
>>> Skype: jovivago
>>>
>>>
>>> www.musme.net
>>>
>>>
>>> Bogota,
>>> Colombia
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>>
options/healeys/healeyguy@**bredband.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/option
s/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3874 - Release Date: 09/03/11
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/
healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Sep  4 10:11:46 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 18:11:46 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator
In-Reply-To: <1315147068.81153.YahooMailClassic@web120101.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1315147068.81153.YahooMailClassic@web120101.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E63A342.2010602@chello.nl>

ebay. co.uk for a couple of months weekly
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From lnjn36 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep  4 10:12:31 2011
From: lnjn36 at sbcglobal.net (Lynn and Jean Neff)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 09:12:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] tail light / chrome bezel
Message-ID: <1315152751.21651.YahooMailClassic@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Just noticed today that I am missing one tail light lens (glass) and chrome
bezel from the BT7. Looks like the rubber failed. Any ideas for replacement?
 
Thanks,
 
Lynn Neff
BT7
Springfield, IL

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep  4 10:15:40 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 16:15:40 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator
Message-ID: <20110904.091424.6391.109865@mailpop05.dca.untd.com>

Contact Curt Arndt at cnaarndt at gmail.com .

Doug
 
On Sun, 4 Sep 2011 07:37:48 -0700 (PDT) Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com>
writes:
> i have a 3000 bj8 adjustable steering i need a trafficator any help 
> locating one even parts
 
____________________________________________________________
57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25
Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e63a4036ae7188c28st05duc

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Sep  4 10:15:59 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 18:15:59 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <20110904145429.2428.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>
	<20110904145429.2428.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <4E63A43F.4080008@chello.nl>

Make sure the test kit is properly tested though!!!
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep  4 10:21:59 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 09:21:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <SNT110-W8EAF442A94F3C7F9D8A37C81A0@phx.gbl>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT110-W8EAF442A94F3C7F9D8A37C81A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E63A5A7.8050803@comcast.net>

My BJ8 (Bentley) shop manual has an excellent diagnostic for analyzing overdrive problems.  I don't have the BN2 manual 
with me, but it should have a similar diagnostic test sequence.

Using the info in the BJ8 manual I was able to diagnose a problem with the O/D relay while on the road and effect a 
repair (open the relay and file the points).

Bob


On 9/4/2011 8:35 AM, George Haywood wrote:
> Josi,
> > From this statement it seems that you may have 2 problems (or more).
> 1.  The throttle control relay is adjusted wrong-that has been addressed.
>
> 2.  It sounds like since the overdrive does not work when the engine is
> running I think you are saying that you hear all the proper engagement noises
> but the OD doesn't mechanically/hydraulically engage.  This could be caused by
> many issues;  the solenoid adjustment may be wrong not letting the operating
> valve which is attached to the lever open enough, also the OD pump may not be
> working properly due to the cam not engaging the pump roler (have you had the
> OD and tranny separated just prior to this problem?)  The OD mechanism has to
> reach a certain pressure to cause it to engage and remain engaged and the
> pressure needs to be checked to diagnose these issues if all the electrical
> and mechanical (solenoid) functions are correct.  I know this is a pain but it
> has to be done so you'll have the enjoyment the OD.  They offer very little
> trouble once you get them correct--it's worth the hassle right now to get it
> right.
>
> Take care,
>
> George Haywood
> '65 bj8
>
>
>> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
>> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>       >
>> 6. the
>> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>> Josi Vicente Vargas
>> Musmi


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 10:31:34 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 18:31:34 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmCJyLUpXV9_HtmnYcBhXXcYoGS9SK4G6CkNAvtA2CeVew@mail.gmail.com>

Per,

Just a question: what happens if the throttle swiths is not working, and the
overdrive disengages while the propeller shaft if running at higher rpm than
the crankshaft?

Gergo

2011/9/4 Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>

> Josi
> It seems to me that your cut out switch is incorrectly adjusted. The
> purpose of this switch is to keep the overdrive engaged when you flip the
> dashboard switch to the off position, provided the accelerator pedal is not
> used. Then when you accelerate the overdrive should disengage. This is to
> protect the overdrive from being disengaged while the wheels are driving the
> engine.
> The cut out switch is the thing with two wires attached that is operated by
> the throttle. To adjust it, slacken the screw that holds the lever to the
> axle. The axle has a cam that breaks the current when the throttle pedal is
> depressed. Adjust it accordingly, e.g. when the throttle pedal is depressed
> to about 20% the current should be cut off. Be careful, I have come across
> one cut out switch that was incorrectly adjusted and fried the wiring
> harness, so use an ohmmeter when you do this.
> It's your point 4 that triggered this conclusion. Not using the accelerator
> the overdrive should engage when the gear lever is in 3rd/4th and the
> dashboard switch is turned on, and stay there engaged when you turn the
> dashboard switch off.
>
> Per in Sweden
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas skrev 2011-09-04 05:01:
>
>> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever the
>> overdrive engages fine.
>>
>> 2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
>> green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
>> Which one goes
>> on top and which one goes on bottom ?
>>
>> 3. If I do the test with a lamp as
>> described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the manual...
>> when
>> the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.
>>
>> 4.
>> having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th gear,
>> when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the
>> dashboard I
>> can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.
>>
>> 5. Same as point #
>> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>>
>> 6. the
>> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>>
>> 7. Is there a
>> way to test the overdrive relay ?
>>
>> All ideas are welcomed including the ones
>> like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> a
>> very dissapointed Jose ....
>>
>>
>>
>> Josi Vicente Vargas
>> Musmi
>>
>>
>> Tel. (571) 321
>> 3740
>> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
>> Skype: jovivago
>>
>>
>> www.musme.net
>>
>>
>> Bogota,
>> Colombia
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
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>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3874 - Release Date: 09/03/11
>>
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From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep  4 10:40:44 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 12:40:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmBNB5ft6B0duS+b=v2=oxzR_6+5s8X9ZM0UKVuJM_EtUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <487A1736-46F7-4401-A098-713ACE66E382@aol.com>
	<CA+QDXmBNB5ft6B0duS+b=v2=oxzR_6+5s8X9ZM0UKVuJM_EtUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301cc6b21$645274c0$2cf75e40$@net>

Chris, 

This job will go a lot better if you first establish your door gaps evenly
by the careful placing of the jack stands on the main chassis rails. Of
course make sure these main frame rails, X section, cross members and
outriggers are all in good condition and not twisted, damaged or rotted.
I'd suggest the front stands be placed just ahead of the front outriggers,
the rear ones just behind the rear outriggers. Now recheck your door gaps.
I cannot over state that the main chassis may still be fine but when the
inner sills, ends of outriggers, even the floors are detached or removed,
things will flex simply because the Healey IS NOT A FRAME BASED STRUCTURE.
It is a semi-unibody inner structure in which all the components work
together as a team to provide the necessary strength. Obviously with some of
the team "absent" the structure becomes less of the structure it is designed
to be.
Please read that last couple of sentences over a couple of times until you
understand what I'm saying here. Most folks just don't "get it".

Meanwhile if your chassis rails need "capping" then it's time for a new
chassis.

We import the excellent and exactingly accurate Kilmartin chassis from
Australia. Then we build the car up on that. It maintains the absolute
accuracy of detail of the originals with more than sufficient added strength
due to heavying up the metal on the inside of the members. It's a wonderful
substructure on which to build an accurate car.

Rich Chrysler


2011/9/4 Chris Masucci <csooch1 at aol.com>

> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > It's been a while since I have posted but I am now getting back to
> working
> on the Healey after a 6 year hiatus.  Had a Son, purchased an older home,
> etc.
> >
> > The car is the same 1966 BJ8 and I am finally to the point of fitting
> panels.  The front fender to door gaps are good.  The rear fender to door
> gaps
> have the standard small gap up top and bigger gap at bottom indicative of
> frame sagging or damage.  I knew this when I bought the car.  All of the
> rust
> has been cut out and some frame sections capped.  I have removed the
> temporarily welded in rear inner body panel for the shut pillar and the
> rear
> seat pan, which needed replacing anyway.  I am now working on
straightening
> the rear section of the frame.  The car is supported on the front hubs and
> at
> the frame right at the rear outriggers.  I am pressing down on the rear
> most
> part of the frame in the boot with bottle jacks.
> >
> > I have been able to open the door gaps on both sides so that I have
3/10"
> bigger gap up top versus the bottom on both sides.  My question is, do you
> think that is enough for me to start tacking in the rest of the inner body
> panel and rear frame caps for strength?  I have heard rumors of opening to
> a
> delta of 3/16", welding and, and then when supported by all the wheels it
> should sag somewhere close to even gaps.  I had planned on lightly tacking
> in
> the new metal and then jacking the car by the rear axle to see where the
> gaps
> closed, kind of by trial and error.  Wondering if I am at a good starting
> point.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Sun Sep  4 10:43:39 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 11:43:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <4E63A07F.8010206@comcast.net>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E63830D.2070607@comcast.net>
	<20110904145429.2428.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E63A07F.8010206@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <014b01cc6b21$ccf01280$66d03780$@qwest.net>

Another factor to consider is the energy content of ethanol. The
stoichiometric ratio for gasoline is about 14.7, for ethanol it is 9.0 to
one, so a 10% mix yields about 14.1. You might try a little richer mixture,
and see if it helps.

Herb Miller 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2011 11:00 AM
To: Steve B. Gerow
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?

Steve,

Sounds like a worthwhile experiment.  If you can prove an association
between ethanol content and poor running engines I'd be interested.  Also,
if some suppliers are exceeding the 10% limit your local consumer affairs
bureau should be notified (if they haven't been laid off).

One problem is that 'poor running' is subjective.  Since you already have a
'hunch' that the fuel is causing your problems you will likely attribute any
miss, stumble, etc. to the fuel.  The only way to get an objective reading
that I can think of is to put your car on a dynamometer and try the
different fuels.  You can also track mileage closely, but that is an
indirect indicator at best.

I've given one data set but, again, it's subjective (except for the mileage
figures for the BJ8, which we've tracked for over 16 years of extended
trips).  I've noticed a slight problem that could be mild vapor lock if I
drive on a warm day, 
shut the engine down for a half-hour or so then restart.   Seems to be a
recent (last few years) phenomenon, and doesn't 
happen after a briefer (up to 15min.) shutdown.

Also, I assume you have a modern, computer-controlled EFI auto as a backup
for your Healey.  Have you tried the same fuel in your BJ9?  Modern cars are
designed to accommodate a variety of fuels--my Mustang will run on 87-octane
but prefers premium (or better)--but a problem with combustion might be
detected and logged by the ECM.

My 'hunch' would be that--if you're buying your fuel from the same
station--there could be contamination (e.g. water) in the fuel or the fuel
is 'stale.'

Bob


On 9/4/2011 7:54 AM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
> Bob,
> I wasn't intending to pass my assertion off as "science". Wanted to put it
out in front of the group and see if anyone else feels like they're
experiencing the same issue.
>
> I've been having these problems for maybe three months and have a hunch
about the gas. This may be wrong and I'll figure it out after a while.
>
> I followed up on my hunch by purchasing the test kit ($30 approx). I'm now
going to embark on a program of testing the fuels I buy at different
stations. Different grades, too.
>
> It would be useful information if some other drivers would test their gas,
find a similar percentage of ethanol, and report whether their cars are
running differently.


--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3876 - Release Date: 09/04/11

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep  4 11:00:20 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 13:00:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <A565AA82-04FB-4681-9F66-334EB1C3744D@yahoo.com>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>
	<CA+QDXmB2yv=vX3zvv7JP5By4B=1qPOdYQiqX0ktyCLhBxCrwKQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<A565AA82-04FB-4681-9F66-334EB1C3744D@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000401cc6b24$211d3a20$6357ae60$@net>

Jose, 

The throttle linkage arm is pulled down as you accelerate. See picture.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas
Sent: 2011-09-04 12:00
To: Austin Healey
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts

The arm of the throtle switch is travelling up when I accelarate.... This is
wrong ?

Jose



Sent from my iPad


On Sep 4, 2011, at 8:56 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> ...OR just like me, You have assembled the throttle linkage incorrectly,
and
> it is pushing the arm of the switch up instead of pulling it down.
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2011/9/4 Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>
>
>> Josi
>> It seems to me that your cut out switch is incorrectly adjusted. The
>> purpose of this switch is to keep the overdrive engaged when you flip the
>> dashboard switch to the off position, provided the accelerator pedal is
not
>> used. Then when you accelerate the overdrive should disengage. This is to
>> protect the overdrive from being disengaged while the wheels are driving
the
>> engine.
>> The cut out switch is the thing with two wires attached that is operated
by
>> the throttle. To adjust it, slacken the screw that holds the lever to the
>> axle. The axle has a cam that breaks the current when the throttle pedal
is
>> depressed. Adjust it accordingly, e.g. when the throttle pedal is
depressed
>> to about 20% the current should be cut off. Be careful, I have come
across
>> one cut out switch that was incorrectly adjusted and fried the wiring
>> harness, so use an ohmmeter when you do this.
>> It's your point 4 that triggered this conclusion. Not using the
accelerator
>> the overdrive should engage when the gear lever is in 3rd/4th and the
>> dashboard switch is turned on, and stay there engaged when you turn the
>> dashboard switch off.
>>
>> Per in Sweden
>>
>> Josi Vicente Vargas skrev 2011-09-04 05:01:
>>
>>> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever
the
>>> overdrive engages fine.
>>>
>>> 2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
>>> green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
>>> Which one goes
>>> on top and which one goes on bottom ?
>>>
>>> 3. If I do the test with a lamp as
>>> described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the
manual...
>>> when
>>> the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.
>>>
>>> 4.
>>> having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th
gear,
>>> when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the
>>> dashboard I
>>> can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.
>>>
>>> 5. Same as point #
>>> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>>>
>>> 6. the
>>> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>>>
>>> 7. Is there a
>>> way to test the overdrive relay ?
>>>
>>> All ideas are welcomed including the ones
>>> like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> a
>>> very dissapointed Jose ....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Josi Vicente Vargas
>>> Musmi
>>>
>>>
>>> Tel. (571) 321
>>> 3740
>>> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
>>> Skype: jovivago
>>>
>>>
>>> www.musme.net
>>>
>>>
>>> Bogota,
>>> Colombia
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>>
options/healeys/healeyguy@**bredband.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/optio
n
s/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3874 - Release Date: 09/03/11
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options
/
healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of whit0812 021.jpg]

From mdoust at abarth.ca  Sun Sep  4 11:07:01 2011
From: mdoust at abarth.ca (Mark)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 13:07:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
Message-ID: <000001cc6b25$105fd660$311f8320$@ca>

It should go down when you accelerate 

Cheers 

Mark 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas
Sent: September-04-11 12:00 PM
To: Austin Healey
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts

The arm of the throtle switch is travelling up when I accelarate.... This is
wrong ?

Jose



Sent from my iPad


On Sep 4, 2011, at 8:56 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> ...OR just like me, You have assembled the throttle linkage incorrectly,
and
> it is pushing the arm of the switch up instead of pulling it down.
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2011/9/4 Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>
>
>> Josi
>> It seems to me that your cut out switch is incorrectly adjusted. The
>> purpose of this switch is to keep the overdrive engaged when you flip the
>> dashboard switch to the off position, provided the accelerator pedal is
not
>> used. Then when you accelerate the overdrive should disengage. This is to
>> protect the overdrive from being disengaged while the wheels are driving
the
>> engine.
>> The cut out switch is the thing with two wires attached that is operated
by
>> the throttle. To adjust it, slacken the screw that holds the lever to the
>> axle. The axle has a cam that breaks the current when the throttle pedal
is
>> depressed. Adjust it accordingly, e.g. when the throttle pedal is
depressed
>> to about 20% the current should be cut off. Be careful, I have come
across
>> one cut out switch that was incorrectly adjusted and fried the wiring
>> harness, so use an ohmmeter when you do this.
>> It's your point 4 that triggered this conclusion. Not using the
accelerator
>> the overdrive should engage when the gear lever is in 3rd/4th and the
>> dashboard switch is turned on, and stay there engaged when you turn the
>> dashboard switch off.
>>
>> Per in Sweden
>>
>> Josi Vicente Vargas skrev 2011-09-04 05:01:
>>
>>> 1. mechanichaly it is fine. If I get under the car and pull the lever
the
>>> overdrive engages fine.
>>>
>>> 2. Do the cables (white with purple and white with
>>> green) that go in the throtle switch have an specific order ?
>>> Which one goes
>>> on top and which one goes on bottom ?
>>>
>>> 3. If I do the test with a lamp as
>>> described on the manual I get the exact opposite results of the
manual...
>>> when
>>> the light shoul go off it tuns on and when it should be on it turns off.
>>>
>>> 4.
>>> having the car on stands with the engine off if I engage 4th or 3 th
gear,
>>> when accelarate a little and I turn on the overdrive switch on the
>>> dashboard I
>>> can hear the solenoid engaging and I see the lever moving.
>>>
>>> 5. Same as point #
>>> 4 but with the engine running and the damm overdrive will not work.
>>>
>>> 6. the
>>> solenoid is new, the throtle switch is new, the relay is new.
>>>
>>> 7. Is there a
>>> way to test the overdrive relay ?
>>>
>>> All ideas are welcomed including the ones
>>> like insuring the car and burning it or throwing it down a cliff
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> a
>>> very dissapointed Jose ....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Josi Vicente Vargas
>>> Musmi
>>>
>>>
>>> Tel. (571) 321
>>> 3740
>>> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
>>> Skype: jovivago
>>>
>>>
>>> www.musme.net
>>>
>>>
>>> Bogota,
>>> Colombia
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>>
options/healeys/healeyguy@**bredband.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/optio
n
s/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3874 - Release Date: 09/03/11
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options
/
healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep  4 11:12:36 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 13:12:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmCJyLUpXV9_HtmnYcBhXXcYoGS9SK4G6CkNAvtA2CeVew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net>
	<CA+QDXmCJyLUpXV9_HtmnYcBhXXcYoGS9SK4G6CkNAvtA2CeVew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000d01cc6b25$d7dc4200$8794c600$@net>

If decelerating while the overdrive switches off, there will be a noticeable
"shock" to the driveline as everything drops down to the non overdrive
ratio. Not a healthy action especially for the early overdrives.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Austin Healey
Sent: 2011-09-04 12:32
To: Per Schoerner
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts

Per,

Just a question: what happens if the throttle swiths is not working, and the
overdrive disengages while the propeller shaft if running at higher rpm than
the crankshaft?

Gergo

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep  4 11:23:17 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 10:23:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] tail light / chrome bezel
In-Reply-To: <1315152751.21651.YahooMailClassic@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1315152751.21651.YahooMailClassic@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C8A34F4D-18E1-4919-A90F-B8D2142B7072@sbcglobal.net>

The new ones the colors are not quite the same they are more of an Orange that
Red. So if you install new ones you may want to consider installing a pair.
Also we have used ones available.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On Sep 4, 2011, at 9:12 AM, Lynn and Jean Neff wrote:

> Just noticed today that I am missing one tail light lens (glass) and chrome
> bezel from the BT7. Looks like the rubber failed. Any ideas for
replacement?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lynn Neff
> BT7
> Springfield, IL
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Sep  4 11:24:01 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 11:24:01 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <000d01cc6b25$d7dc4200$8794c600$@net>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><4E634CB0.2010108@bredband.net><CA+QDXmCJyLUpXV9_HtmnYcBhXXcYoGS9SK4G6CkNAvtA2CeVew@mail.gmail.com>
	<000d01cc6b25$d7dc4200$8794c600$@net>
Message-ID: <AC19A510A3FC4EDFA55C73B9127A761B@oscar>

Mike Salter said it best.. use the clutch going up or down with the O/D..
DaveP

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2011 11:13 AM
To: 'Austin Healey'; 'Per Schoerner'
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts

If decelerating while the overdrive switches off, there will be a noticeable
"shock" to the driveline as everything drops down to the non overdrive
ratio. Not a healthy action especially for the early overdrives.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Austin Healey
Sent: 2011-09-04 12:32
To: Per Schoerner
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts

Per,

Just a question: what happens if the throttle swiths is not working, and the
overdrive disengages while the propeller shaft if running at higher rpm than
the crankshaft?

Gergo
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep  4 11:31:15 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 13:31:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] tail light / chrome bezel
In-Reply-To: <1315152751.21651.YahooMailClassic@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1315152751.21651.YahooMailClassic@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000e01cc6b28$72e20260$58a60720$@net>

Lynn, 

Suggest you buy new rubber boot, lens and chrome ring assembly. They are all
available separately or as an assembly. Make sure you get the correct one
for your BT7. You might want to check the other lamp assemblies on the car,
as the rubbers are probably just as old on the others.
Make sure the parts are for the Lucas Model 594 series lamp assembly.

Rich


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Lynn and Jean Neff
Sent: 2011-09-04 12:13
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] tail light / chrome bezel

Just noticed today that I am missing one tail light lens (glass) and chrome
bezel from the BT7. Looks like the rubber failed. Any ideas for replacement?
 
Thanks,
 
Lynn Neff
BT7
Springfield, IL
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sun Sep  4 12:07:20 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 11:07:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey
In-Reply-To: <8CE391FD473B544-1990-45166@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
References: <74DCE96F-76D7-474D-8127-6F4825C23D93@gmail.com>
	<8CE391FD473B544-1990-45166@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3F72AFDB-A512-4D81-98FE-7EF9D3A5AEA6@cox.net>

When this list was getting as out of shape because of the 3.8 Jag conversion I
almost posted a pic of that car from the San Diego show a few years ago, but I
passed because I had no idea what it was!

http://ewilkins.com/wilko/conclave08/healey_jag12.png

Great car with lovely restomod job.

For the record, Healeys are very nice cars (my fave brit sports car) and have
awesome styling, but the Jags are lot faster. No need to get offended by
that.

Wilko
San Diego

On Sep 4, 2011, at 6:43 AM, NPaul72464 at aol.com wrote:

> Check out this link...
>
>
> http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id63.html
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14 at gmail.com>
> To: Healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Sep 3, 2011 7:51 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey
>
>
> Went for a ride in Martin Jansens 100-4 supercharged V12 today. I  have now
> found the perfect  engine for my next project, just need to find a pile of
> money to fund it. A beautiful car with acceleration  that resembles the
> airbus
> 320 I fly daily. Should be on every healey hot rodder's want list. Not for
> everyone but for me yes. The car is     nicely displayed on his website
,Jule
> Enterprises
>
> Cheers Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Sep  4 12:55:10 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 14:55:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <4E63A5A7.8050803@comcast.net>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT110-W8EAF442A94F3C7F9D8A37C81A0@phx.gbl>
	<4E63A5A7.8050803@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <017701cc6b34$2c7c0b20$85742160$@verizon.net>

There is an overdrive manual and a number of related articles on the
Technical page of my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2011 12:22 PM
To: George Haywood
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts

My BJ8 (Bentley) shop manual has an excellent diagnostic for analyzing
overdrive problems.  I don't have the BN2 manual with me, but it should have
a similar diagnostic test sequence.

Using the info in the BJ8 manual I was able to diagnose a problem with the
O/D relay while on the road and effect a repair (open the relay and file the
points).

Bob

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  4 13:48:39 2011
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 19:48:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey pub nights, get togethers etc in England
Message-ID: <SNT124-W507073F3D8720B152B60FBB51A0@phx.gbl>

We leave for England on the 6th. Can anyone tell me if they know of any pub
nights or other get togethers near where we're staying? From the 8th to the
11th we'll be in Bradford near Clitheroe in Lancashire, from the 12th to the
14th in Cleethorpes, Lincolnshire and on the 15th in Malvern Link. Then we
head to Goodwood for the Revival. Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks
Rick'59 BN4

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 13:53:53 2011
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 12:53:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] (Healeys)4
Message-ID: <1315166033.16543.YahooMailClassic@web112512.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Ed knows he has a problem and has appologized to people he knows via eamil.
Apparently, his email address has been hacked/hi-jacked. I told him to do a
deep scan virus cleanup. Anyone have a better idea to fix this? I'll pass info
t Ed via phone call. He lives up the street from me.
Patrick
 
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 13:12:55 -0500
From: Ed Reiss <ed.reiss at hotmail.com>
To: <liz_a_belle at yahoo.com>, <elizabeth.brannon at oracle.com>,
    <healeys at autox.team.net>, <jhsports at charter.net>, <hbeckbari at aol.com>,
    <info at optionsxpress.com>, <jasonc at pocketpak.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4
Message-ID: <COL116-W43A63A4B80FB5C80E052F99E1B0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Your friend wants to help you! Dont ignore this letter!.
http://cydoniastudio.com/page.friend.php?qahsiteid=30nu9

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sun Sep  4 14:55:05 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 22:55:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <017701cc6b34$2c7c0b20$85742160$@verizon.net>
References: <1315105291.71061.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT110-W8EAF442A94F3C7F9D8A37C81A0@phx.gbl>
	<4E63A5A7.8050803@comcast.net>
	<017701cc6b34$2c7c0b20$85742160$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4E63E5A9.1010008@bredband.net>

Josi (and all)
I think Rich said what need to be said on the subject, e.g. things can 
break if the overdrive is not used in the way it was designed for. And 
with all respect for Mike Salter (he's one of my heroes), using the 
clutch is not necessary if everything is set up the way it should be.

Per in Sweden

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 15:19:09 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 14:19:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey --  1959 Anglia
In-Reply-To: <4E62C112.2060503@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1315171149.76515.YahooMailClassic@web65902.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

It's a 100E.

I found the Anglia club of England.
http://www.fordanglia105eownersclub.co.uk/

Not in the US.  

He has a few
parts he got at Kip Motors.  Anyone heard of them? Kip has Healey parts,
including pistons.

Greg


--- On Sat, 9/3/11, Charlie Baldwin
<mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Charlie Baldwin
<mgcharlie at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey --  1959 Anglia
>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, September 3, 2011, 8:06 PM
>
There is at least one English Ford
> Club in the USA.  There was a man 
> that
started it from the Harrisburg, PA area, but he moved
> to New 
> England.  Do
a search and see what you can come up
> with.  Here is one 
> that I found:
>
http://www.enfostuff.com/
> Your request isn't totally off topic since the
Healeys were
> involved in 
> the Healey Fiesta, a hotted up Ford Fiesta.  I
believe
> that I have seen 
> it at AHSTC Encounter some years ago.
> Charlie
> 
> 
> On 9/3/2011 12:23 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:
> > My brother-in-law is
looking to sell a 59 Anglia.
> Black, two door. Looks
> > complete and
undamaged. Great interior.
> >
> > Anyone know if there's a club or
association that can
> lend assistance on
> > valuation and what-not?
> >
> >
Thanks
> >
> > Greg
> > 65BJ8
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone so please excuse
typos and
> brevity.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net
> 
>
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard
> which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
>
Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
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http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 15:21:38 2011
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 14:21:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive driving me nuts
In-Reply-To: <000401cc6b24$211d3a20$6357ae60$@net>
Message-ID: <1315171298.88923.YahooMailClassic@web36704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Jose,
I just went over all this in my own restoration of my 56 BN2.  I am about 6
months to 1 year behind you.  I just used a multi-meter to test all
functioning of the relay/switches as the engine/trans is not yet in the car.
 I also use a variable power supply that will deliver a set current I can dial
in to 3 amp max.  This power supply will switch out when there would be a
short.  If I make a mistake then at least I will not fry the expensive wiring.
 This power supply is just not powerful enough to test solenoids or horns.
With your throttle switch mechanism reversed, this switch is now energizing
the solenoid with the accelerator depressed (open throttle).  If your solenoid
was not working without depressing the accelerator in your test #4 then the
relay will be the next item to check after you reverse the throttle linkage.  
In fact it's best to test all these components separately before testing them
as an assembly.
The order of connection of the white leads does not change operation of the
switch, but it's important for the lamp test in the 6 cyl manual where they
hook up the white-purple lead to the top post and test from there.  I suggest
to do the same for later trouble shooting.   In the BN2 wiring diagram it's
not specified, but then again the lamp test is also not in the 4 cyl manual as
mentioned.
One consolation: the BN1 has an extra relay and 1 more switch, much more to
test and trouble shoot.
Best of luck, you're almost there.
Bert

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 16:10:49 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 06:10:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKAJR5T47g9cFnCg3HWSLy7YYpZroKGuP9BGDtZJwwGUA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Steve -

I tend to generally agree with Bob here.

Next time your car is warm and has failed, listen to your fuel pump.
If it is pumping like crazy, then it is vapor lock.  If not, then it's
something else.

I would also check for vacuum leaks in your intake manifold and carbs,
what you describe sounds like a vacuum leak that manifests itself when
the car is hot.  Check the carb throttle shafts, wiggle them when the
car is failing and see if rpms improve... If so you need a complete
carb rebuild.

Good luck -

Alan

On 9/4/11, Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com> wrote:
> Geez Bob, according to the link you sent, there are 4 stations in California
> that sell non-ethanol gas - the closest one to me is in Ridgecrest, 150
> miles - hardly a solution.
>
> If you'd actually read my post below, you would see that I didn't say my 8%
> ethanol gas was over-mixed, I only said there's an incentive for
> distributors to over-mix ethanol into gas. It may indeed be over mixed for
> Healeys, though. Do you know what the ethanol percentage was of the gas we
> were typically running, say, a year or two ago was?
>
> What I'm saying here is my car and those of others I know are running
> somewhat badly now and I suspect the gas may be the problem.
>
> Just because 10% is allowed, which was presumably arrived at in coordination
> with the current car manufacturers, doesn't mean it will run in our old
> carbureted cars without problems.
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
>
>
>
>>  -------Original Message-------
>>  From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>  To: Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
>>  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
>>  Sent: Sep 03 '11 17:51
>>
>>  Let's see ... my car runs bad, my gas has ethanol; therefore, ethanol is
>> the cause of the bad running.  I know science
>>  is unpopular these days, but that doesn't mean it doesn't still apply.
>> Try this: empty your tank as much as possible,
>>  then buy a tank of gas that doesn't have any ethanol--it's still
>> available: http://pure-gas.org/.  If your car stops
>>  running badly, you've proved your hypothesis; if not, time to look
>> elsewhere for the cause of the problem.
>>
>>  The vapor pressure of gasoline--it's measured by Reid Vapor Pressure
>>  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reid_Vapor_Pressure)--varies during the
>> course of the year; lower in summer, higher in
>>  winter (usually).  It's closely monitored and controlled to reduce vapor
>> loss and hence smog and, yes, the formulators
>>  consider its effect on combustion (that's why the VP is higher in the
>> winter).
>>
>>  10% ethanol is allowed; how is 8% 'over-mixed?'
>>
>>  FWIW, the oil industry people I've heard espouse on the subject hate
>> having to put any ethanol at all in their
>>  gasoline--they want to sell petroleum, not moonshine.
>>
>>  Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>  On 9/3/2011 5:17 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>>  > Lately I've been experiencing bad running - loading up on taking off
>> from a stop sign. Better in cool weather, worse in hot weather. It's like
>> the fuel is now more volatile and vapor-locks at a lower temperature.
>>  >
>>  > A number of other collector-car drivers have mentioned similar
>> problems.
>>  >
>>  > I did online research and bought an inexpensive kit which reveals the
>> percentage of ethanol in the gas.
>>  >
>>  > My last tank, Unocal 76 Regular, which ran badly, turned out to be 8%
>> ethanol.
>>  >
>>  > Pictures of the test, the kit and a link to the supplier's website
>> which has lots of information on ethanol in gas, and how tax breaks are
>> incentivizing suppliers to over-mix to a higher percentage of ethanol than
>> is allowed by law.
>>  >
>>  > http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech
>>  >
>>
>>
>>  --
>>  *******************************************************************
>>  Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>>
>>  *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 16:29:20 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 06:29:20 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey
In-Reply-To: <3F72AFDB-A512-4D81-98FE-7EF9D3A5AEA6@cox.net>
References: <74DCE96F-76D7-474D-8127-6F4825C23D93@gmail.com>
	<8CE391FD473B544-1990-45166@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com>
	<3F72AFDB-A512-4D81-98FE-7EF9D3A5AEA6@cox.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKSv1GOSc2=f4Y24qofWnJLo5RqBV3rZsseSAYALz7FQw@mail.gmail.com>

Actually Jag guys lament that the 5.4 L V12 has little or no more
practical horsepower than the 3.8 at half the mileage, although in the
US that was in part to the smog kit.  Looks like Martin has this one
all dialed in for efficiency and power.

On 9/5/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:
> When this list was getting as out of shape because of the 3.8 Jag conversion
> I
> almost posted a pic of that car from the San Diego show a few years ago, but
> I
> passed because I had no idea what it was!
>
> http://ewilkins.com/wilko/conclave08/healey_jag12.png
>
> Great car with lovely restomod job.
>
> For the record, Healeys are very nice cars (my fave brit sports car) and
> have
> awesome styling, but the Jags are lot faster. No need to get offended by
> that.
>
> Wilko
> San Diego
>
> On Sep 4, 2011, at 6:43 AM, NPaul72464 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Check out this link...
>>
>>
>> http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id63.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14 at gmail.com>
>> To: Healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sat, Sep 3, 2011 7:51 pm
>> Subject: [Healeys] V12 Healey
>>
>>
>> Went for a ride in Martin Jansens 100-4 supercharged V12 today. I  have
>> now
>> found the perfect  engine for my next project, just need to find a pile of
>> money to fund it. A beautiful car with acceleration  that resembles the
>> airbus
>> 320 I fly daily. Should be on every healey hot rodder's want list. Not for
>> everyone but for me yes. The car is     nicely displayed on his website
> ,Jule
>> Enterprises
>>
>> Cheers Phil
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 16:31:05 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 06:31:05 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 110/6 you
In-Reply-To: <4E637DC2.6020500@comcast.net>
References: <1B514E406CA54E2FBE2FA2785CC3EC71@WORLDCARS>
	<4E637DC2.6020500@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJX5Q1D-jQXDbOhhYX1WpkMdQS52=+16n_nxk2aWABmqA@mail.gmail.com>

e e cummings

On 9/4/11, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> What's your name?
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 9/4/2011 12:33 AM, classic trade space wrote:
>> As you all no i posted a small message on the list last week for a 100/6
>> that
>> was for sale, it was not a mini or a jaguar it was an Austin Healey, i
>> posted
>> on the list as i have been a list member for a long time now and read and
>> receive all the posts,  the response to the 100/6 for sale was mixed even
>> though i assumed i was helping any one looking for a healey in there
>> search,
>> the web site www.classictradespace.com is a site you can lists your cars
>> on
>> for free and no financial gain is made by me if you list a car for sale so
>> even though a lot of you assumed it was a trade advert with the intention
>> of
>> finantial gain i would just like to make it clear that it was not and on a
>> different note you are welcome to list your cars for sale free of charge
>> and
>> there is a resources section that is also free where you can list any web
>> sites you wish that relate to classic cars.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 16:44:05 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 15:44:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <1315176245.33996.YahooMailClassic@web65919.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Steve,

I gotta tell you, I'm becoming more and more of a believer in Startron.

http://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Enzyme-Treatment-Additive/dp/B0014419UQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1315175683&sr=8-1

When my 2000 S-type starts to run rough a good swig smooths it out.  I live in Connecticut and the last generator available in the state before Irene hit was one my friend had and "couldn't get running."  Some fiddling the carb, a shot of carb cleaner and a swig of Startron in the first tank and she ran good as new.  I haven't had to clean out any of the carbs on my 2 and 4 stroke lawn equipment since using it and I keep mixed gas around way to long.

NFI  Just a true believer.

Greg

--- On Sat, 9/3/11, Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com> wrote:

> From: Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, September 3, 2011, 8:17 PM
> Lately I've been experiencing bad
> running - loading up on taking off from a stop sign. Better
> in cool weather, worse in hot weather. It's like the fuel is
> now more volatile and vapor-locks at a lower temperature.
> 
> A number of other collector-car drivers have mentioned
> similar problems.
> 
> I did online research and bought an inexpensive kit which
> reveals the percentage of ethanol in the gas.
> 
> My last tank, Unocal 76 Regular, which ran badly, turned
> out to be 8% ethanol.
> 
> Pictures of the test, the kit and a link to the supplier's
> website which has lots of information on ethanol in gas, and
> how tax breaks are incentivizing suppliers to over-mix to a
> higher percentage of ethanol than is allowed by law.
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech
> 
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena, CA
> BN6

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Sep  4 17:36:10 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 09:36:10 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] The California
Message-ID: <9C507295B698470DA135088CE2B822A1@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

No doubt it's to someone's tastes.

 

The Austin-Healey California is for sale in the UK.

 

http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/details.asp?Auto_ID=374

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Sep  4 19:40:12 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 20:40:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <9C507295B698470DA135088CE2B822A1@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <9C507295B698470DA135088CE2B822A1@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <1DB9CFA32F0C43CAB7E6D04C3A3EC0AA@GregPC>

it looks like a cross between an e-type and a late 60s vette.  Not 
unattractive to my eye, but not necessarily and improvement on the original.

Greg Lemon

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 20:51:23 2011
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 19:51:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Working on door gaps
Message-ID: <1315191083.51257.YahooMailClassic@web121806.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

In a stationary situation  the loading of a chassis is longitudinal .
If you are thinking of your superstructure
 as a team, it is imperative that
you understand who you are playing against. You are playing against a team
called Torsional Stress Loads. Their team members include #34- Pot Hole, #28-
Railway tracks, #17, Cornering, #12-
 Engine torque, #76 Braking, #36 Truck
rut, #42 Curb side and the quarter back- Suspension Loading. The previous
owner has encountered this team many times and lost as did many others. Even
with new players- new parts that are following the old rules  the team is
still going to loose. You must understand the rules of the game before you
start.
The Austin Healey c

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 21:17:58 2011
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 20:17:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re:  Working on door gaps
Message-ID: <1315192678.92205.YahooMailClassic@web121804.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

In a stationary situation  the loading of a chassis is longitudinal .
If you are thinking of your superstructure
 as a team, it is imperative that
you understand who you are playing against. You are playing against a team
called Torsional Stress Loads. Their team members include #34- Pot Hole, #28-
Railway tracks, #17, Cornering, #12-
 Engine torque, #76 Braking, #36 Truck
rut, #42 Curb side and the quarter back- Suspension Loading. The previous
owner has encountered this team many times and lost as did many others. Even
with new players- new parts that are following the old rules  the team is
still going to loose. You must understand the rules of the game before you
start.
The Austin Healey chassis lacks torsional rigidity.   When a Healey is started
and driven the loading of a chassis changes to 90% torsional - 10%
longitudinal, give or take.
The Austin Healey is a ladder design also known as the poorest design for road
handling. the reason for this is it lacks  torsional stiffness. Just because
it superstructure is welded to the chassis it is now referenced as a
monocoque  design but it does not offer the advantages of a monocoque design.
A
 monococque design utilizes heavy stampings boxed & trianglization also
utilizing roof  panels for  rigidity.
It
 is mostly torsional loading that will effect your door gap. You must start
with a strong foundation which will keep all components in place. Welding a
piece of metal between two C sections on the main rail will not create a
rigid  chassis.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sun Sep  4 21:43:58 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 19:43:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Bad_running_due_to_ethanol_in_gas=3F?=
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKAJR5T47g9cFnCg3HWSLy7YYpZroKGuP9BGDtZJwwGUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CAFBXTkKAJR5T47g9cFnCg3HWSLy7YYpZroKGuP9BGDtZJwwGUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20110905034358.28674.qmail@hoster902.com>

Alan,
Thank you for the suggestions - will keep them in mind as I move forward. 

The car doesn't come close to failing - it just occasionally runs wierdly under certain specific circumstances. 

BTW - today I filled it with Arco Premium (vs Unocal regular), which tested at 5% alcohol.

Will report back to the list if it runs better with the Premium gas.
-- 
Steve


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>  To: Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>, healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
>  Sent: Sep 04 '11 14:10
>  
>  Hi Steve -
>  
>  I tend to generally agree with Bob here.
>  
>  Next time your car is warm and has failed, listen to your fuel pump.
>  If it is pumping like crazy, then it is vapor lock.  If not, then it's
>  something else.
>  
>  I would also check for vacuum leaks in your intake manifold and carbs,
>  what you describe sounds like a vacuum leak that manifests itself when
>  the car is hot.  Check the carb throttle shafts, wiggle them when the
>  car is failing and see if rpms improve... If so you need a complete
>  carb rebuild.
>  
>  Good luck -
>  
>  Alan

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Mon Sep  5 14:50:59 2011
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry rowe)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 13:50:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re:  Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <1315192678.92205.YahooMailClassic@web121804.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1315192678.92205.YahooMailClassic@web121804.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc6c0d$849dcad0$8dd96070$@net.au>

This sounds like an advertisement to me or at least a bit of self promotion

John Rowe
Qld
Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Martin Jansen
Sent: Sunday, 4 September 2011 8:18 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re: Working on door gaps

In a stationary situation  the loading of a chassis is longitudinal .
If you are thinking of your superstructure
 as a team, it is imperative that
you understand who you are playing against. You are playing against a team
called Torsional Stress Loads. Their team members include #34- Pot Hole,
#28-
Railway tracks, #17, Cornering, #12-
 Engine torque, #76 Braking, #36 Truck
rut, #42 Curb side and the quarter back- Suspension Loading. The previous
owner has encountered this team many times and lost as did many others. Even
with new players- new parts that are following the old rules  the team is
still going to loose. You must understand the rules of the game before you
start.
The Austin Healey chassis lacks torsional rigidity.   When a Healey is
started
and driven the loading of a chassis changes to 90% torsional - 10%
longitudinal, give or take.
The Austin Healey is a ladder design also known as the poorest design for
road
handling. the reason for this is it lacks  torsional stiffness. Just because
it superstructure is welded to the chassis it is now referenced as a
monocoque  design but it does not offer the advantages of a monocoque
design.
A
 monococque design utilizes heavy stampings boxed & trianglization also
utilizing roof  panels for  rigidity.
It
 is mostly torsional loading that will effect your door gap. You must start
with a strong foundation which will keep all components in place. Welding a
piece of metal between two C sections on the main rail will not create a
rigid  chassis.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
_______________________________________________

From hstandfa at iinet.net.au  Sun Sep  4 22:58:19 2011
From: hstandfa at iinet.net.au (Noel and Helen standfast)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 14:58:19 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
Message-ID: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>

Listers

I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting the 
three zinc interleaves to the rears?  The spring works can't supply the 
interleaves and claim that they aren't necessary.  However I feel they 
were there for a reason and I am happy to try to source the material and 
supply to the spring works if they are beneficial

thanks

Noel Standfast
AHOC Qld

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Sep  4 23:06:40 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 15:06:40 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <459DA181F3144AB987A804D1D44DCB98@PatrickQuinnPC>

Hello Noel

I agree with you. I also have to do mine in the next few months so if you
find some please let me know so I can get some too.

Best wishes

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

Ps Everyone in the US is ZZZZZ as it's yet another public holiday.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Noel and Helen standfast
Sent: Monday, 5 September 2011 2:58 PM
To: Healeys list
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves

Listers

I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting the 
three zinc interleaves to the rears?  The spring works can't supply the 
interleaves and claim that they aren't necessary.  However I feel they 
were there for a reason and I am happy to try to source the material and 
supply to the spring works if they are beneficial

thanks

Noel Standfast
AHOC Qld
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 23:21:02 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 07:21:02 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <1DB9CFA32F0C43CAB7E6D04C3A3EC0AA@GregPC>
References: <9C507295B698470DA135088CE2B822A1@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<1DB9CFA32F0C43CAB7E6D04C3A3EC0AA@GregPC>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBJXbu=B9EwO9qccQN1Y8tuGYWV_sB6xHfcQKb8c8ggTA@mail.gmail.com>

May it be unique, may it be part of the Healey history, may it be
interesting, and for sure a lot of hard work to do and repect etc., but NO
it is not nice! Especialy if the original shape is considered az an etalon.


Gergo

2011/9/5 Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>

> it looks like a cross between an e-type and a late 60s vette.  Not
> unattractive to my eye, but not necessarily and improvement on the original.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 23:29:10 2011
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 22:29:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <1DB9CFA32F0C43CAB7E6D04C3A3EC0AA@GregPC>
References: <9C507295B698470DA135088CE2B822A1@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<1DB9CFA32F0C43CAB7E6D04C3A3EC0AA@GregPC>
Message-ID: <CAO8P17bX3Kxh12j9mJFvn7Cu=q5184Zr+p-_sY7v3CaoTpGUhg@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Sep 4, 2011 at 6:40 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
>
> it looks like a cross between an e-type and a late 60s vette.  Not
unattractive to my eye, but not necessarily and improvement on the original.
EXACTLY WHAT I THOUGHT. NOT BAD; NOT GREAT. RON

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Sep  4 23:35:35 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 00:35:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <459DA181F3144AB987A804D1D44DCB98@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<459DA181F3144AB987A804D1D44DCB98@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <4E645FA7.80909@justbrits.com>

Hi Noel (you also, mate <G>) ! ! !

I think it's a couple years but I DO recall conversation about
this very subject.  IIRC, the zinc leaves ARE a form of lubricant
and therefore required.  Also IIRC the stuff may be sourced
from McMasterCarr here in the States.  For true info
I suggest the Archives.  I might add that further info
is prob'ly available in the MG-T Archives and several other
Marques' Archives which all are available from the same link at the 
bottom of every List Post [which one use to get to healeys Archives 
<G>]  <G> !!

If you would like me to handle shipping for you, please feel
free to drop me s note.

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Sep  5 00:37:58 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 08:37:58 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <4E645FA7.80909@justbrits.com>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<459DA181F3144AB987A804D1D44DCB98@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<4E645FA7.80909@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4E646E46.8080802@chello.nl>

The zinc acts as an anti-corrosive medium to prevent rust on the sliding 
surfaces of the spring leaves. It works the same as a galvanized 
surface. I do not thing the intention was that it would act as a 
lubricant but the friction coefficient between steel and zinc could well 
be a bit lower than with steel on steel.
I feel the zinc is not really needed as long as you keep the spring 
leaves well lubricated and rust free, but that of course means very 
regular maintainance!!!! and we all service our grease nipples every few 
thousand miles don't we, so it should be no problem.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  5 00:48:06 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 23:48:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <9C507295B698470DA135088CE2B822A1@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <1315205286.2294.YahooMailClassic@web130213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

ya gotta wonder... Where did the "genuine 100S seats" come from?
Best
JK

--- On Sun, 9/4/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
> Subject: [Healeys] The California
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, September 4, 2011, 7:36 PM
> G'day
>
>
>
> No doubt it's to someone's tastes.
>
>
>
> The Austin-Healey California is for sale in the UK.
>
>
>
> http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/details.asp?Auto_ID=374
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Sep  5 01:16:07 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 17:16:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <4E646E46.8080802@chello.nl>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<459DA181F3144AB987A804D1D44DCB98@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<4E645FA7.80909@justbrits.com> <4E646E46.8080802@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <E39B115F63C743A99373EBD27919DA66@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Apart from the rear hanger there are no grease nipples on/in the rear
springs of a big Austin-Healey. There are also no leather gaiters as on
other British cars to keep grease/oil in and around the springs.

I rebuilt mine in the early 1980s and when the car was back on the road and
got wet a few times the rear springs began to squeak. No matter how well I
lubricated them I could not eradicate the squeak.

As I have to rebuild them again due to a broken main leaf I want to install
the original zinc interleaves as I believe such things prevent squeaking.
Whether the zinc acts a lubricant or anti-corrosive medium it doesn't
matter, as long as the squeak doesn't return.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] 
Sent: Monday, 5 September 2011 4:38 PM
To: Shop at " Just Brits "
Cc: Patrick and Caroline Quinn; 'Noel and Helen standfast'; 'Healeys list'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves

The zinc acts as an anti-corrosive medium to prevent rust on the sliding 
surfaces of the spring leaves. It works the same as a galvanized 
surface. I do not thing the intention was that it would act as a 
lubricant but the friction coefficient between steel and zinc could well 
be a bit lower than with steel on steel.
I feel the zinc is not really needed as long as you keep the spring 
leaves well lubricated and rust free, but that of course means very 
regular maintainance!!!! and we all service our grease nipples every few 
thousand miles don't we, so it should be no problem.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  5 01:43:54 2011
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 00:43:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys]  Fw: Re:  Working on door gaps
Message-ID: <1315208634.52523.YahooMailClassic@web112501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

John,
I respectfully disagree with you as Marty's reply sounding soley like an
advertisement or self promotion. Marty is in the business of "Healey
frames", listers should welcome his occassional commentary. His explaination
is of frame technology is far beyond my understanding but in no way does he
say "buy my frame" anywhere in his response. He does list his website which
gives more tech talk and pictures to boot which listers can click on it and
are immediately taken to it. Listers can click on it or not....their choice.
David Nock of BCS also lists his business too. Credabililty is
certainly earned as both of these guys contribute a lot to our cars "technical
knowledge and parts" we need to keep them repaired and on the road.
 
Patrick
BJ8
 
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 13:50:59 -0700
From: "John & Kerry rowe" <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Re:  Working on door gaps
Message-ID: <000001cc6c0d$849dcad0$8dd96070$@net.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

This sounds like an advertisement to me or at least a bit of self promotion

John Rowe
Qld
Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Martin Jansen
Sent: Sunday, 4 September 2011 8:18 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re: Working on door gaps

In a stationary situation  the loading of a chassis is longitudinal .
If you are thinking of your superstructure
as a team, it is imperative that
you understand who you are playing against. You are playing against a team
called Torsional Stress Loads. Their team members include #34- Pot Hole,
#28-
Railway tracks, #17, Cornering, #12-
Engine torque, #76 Braking, #36 Truck
rut, #42 Curb side and the quarter back- Suspension Loading. The previous
owner has encountered this team many times and lost as did many others. Even
with new players- new parts that are following the old rules  the team is
still going to loose. You must understand the rules of the game before you
start.
The Austin Healey chassis lacks torsional rigidity.   When a Healey is
started
and driven the loading of a chassis changes to 90% torsional - 10%
longitudinal, give or take.
The Austin Healey is a ladder design also known as the poorest design for
road
handling. the reason for this is it lacks  torsional stiffness. Just because
it superstructure is welded to the chassis it is now referenced as a
monocoque  design but it does not offer the advantages of a monocoque
design.
A
monococque design utilizes heavy stampings boxed & trianglization also
utilizing roof  panels for  rigidity.
It
is mostly torsional loading that will effect your door gap. You must start
with a strong foundation which will keep all components in place. Welding a
piece of metal between two C sections on the main rail will not create a
rigid  chassis.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Sep  5 01:56:10 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 09:56:10 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <E39B115F63C743A99373EBD27919DA66@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<459DA181F3144AB987A804D1D44DCB98@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<4E645FA7.80909@justbrits.com> <4E646E46.8080802@chello.nl>
	<E39B115F63C743A99373EBD27919DA66@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <4E64809A.1040608@chello.nl>

Patrick,
I was not referring to any specific grease nipples but to all on the 
entire car. I am surprised that lubrication did not help to eradicate 
the squeaking on your car. Some WD 40 on the Landrover Series springs 
does wonders.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Sep  5 02:03:11 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 10:03:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re:  Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <000001cc6c0d$849dcad0$8dd96070$@net.au>
References: <1315192678.92205.YahooMailClassic@web121804.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<000001cc6c0d$849dcad0$8dd96070$@net.au>
Message-ID: <4E64823F.6000205@chello.nl>

Not again please!!!!
This was just a bit of clarification and advise given by somebody in the 
business, like so many others on the list do. Some of the most frequent 
and valuable contributors are in the business as well. So what is the 
big deal?
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 02:18:58 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 16:18:58 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.gmail.com>

The conventional wisdom a while back was to insert teflon leaves.  The
main issue is anti-squeak, not corrosion.

The better option is to go with a high pressure spray dry film
lubricant and coat the leaves prior to assembly.  This has the added
benefit of repelling moisture from the steel, preventing corrosion.

I believe there's some good dry film lubricants ised in the shipping
industry... Someone on the list had a good recommendation for this a
while back.

Best,

Alan

On 9/5/11, Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa at iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Listers
>
> I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting the
> three zinc interleaves to the rears?  The spring works can't supply the
> interleaves and claim that they aren't necessary.  However I feel they
> were there for a reason and I am happy to try to source the material and
> supply to the spring works if they are beneficial
>
> thanks
>
> Noel Standfast
> AHOC Qld
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 02:56:18 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 10:56:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <1315205286.2294.YahooMailClassic@web130213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <9C507295B698470DA135088CE2B822A1@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<1315205286.2294.YahooMailClassic@web130213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAAh8etnf6_E6CSt-rCWMXcM6hDV9cDZRfFSAJu5atYhacNYMbg@mail.gmail.com>

Although I would always prefer the original shape, a classic of 1950s sports
car design, I have to say that for a mid 1960s kit car design that body
shape is pretty damn good. I think it works from pretty much all angles.

The thing is though, it's no longer really a Healey so you may as well go
the whole way and drop a small block chevy in it.

It's unique and attractive but I wonder who is going to pay 69,000 dollars
for it.

Derek

On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 8:48 AM, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall at yahoo.com>wrote:

> ya gotta wonder... Where did the "genuine 100S seats" come from?
> Best
> JK
>
> --- On Sun, 9/4/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
> > From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
> > Subject: [Healeys] The California
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Sunday, September 4, 2011, 7:36 PM
>  > G'day
> >
> >
> >
> > No doubt it's to someone's tastes.
> >
> >
> >
> > The Austin-Healey California is for sale in the UK.
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/details.asp?Auto_ID=374
> >
> >
> >
> > Hoo Roo
> >
> >
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> >
> > Sydney, Australia
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com
>  _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 03:10:34 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 17:10:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
In-Reply-To: <20110905034358.28674.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20110904001756.16807.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4E62D994.9040507@comcast.net>
	<20110904054812.7487.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CAFBXTkKAJR5T47g9cFnCg3HWSLy7YYpZroKGuP9BGDtZJwwGUA@mail.gmail.com>
	<20110905034358.28674.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+6bQNAMxzdovXBGcjofi8R8u5qbLM1vxsFUFzdY=9mDw@mail.gmail.com>

Steve -

Also check your coil, wires, cap and condenser as failure in all of these
things can mimic vapor lock (i.e. when it gets hot they start to fail).  I
even had a failing primary ignition wire that was almost a perfect mimic for
Vapor Lock (car started stuttering when hot) and it didn't correct itself
until I replaced the wire and connectors.  This is the wire from the
ignition to BJ8 Tach to coil.

Alan

On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 11:43 AM, Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>wrote:

> Alan,
> Thank you for the suggestions - will keep them in mind as I move forward.
>
> The car doesn't come close to failing - it just occasionally runs wierdly
> under certain specific circumstances.
>
> BTW - today I filled it with Arco Premium (vs Unocal regular), which tested
> at 5% alcohol.
>
> Will report back to the list if it runs better with the Premium gas.
> --
> Steve
>
>
> >  -------Original Message-------
> >  From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> >  To: Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>, Bob Spidell <
> bspidell at comcast.net>, healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bad running due to ethanol in gas?
> >  Sent: Sep 04 '11 14:10
> >
> >  Hi Steve -
> >
> >  I tend to generally agree with Bob here.
> >
> >  Next time your car is warm and has failed, listen to your fuel pump.
> >  If it is pumping like crazy, then it is vapor lock.  If not, then it's
> >  something else.
> >
> >  I would also check for vacuum leaks in your intake manifold and carbs,
> >  what you describe sounds like a vacuum leak that manifests itself when
> >  the car is hot.  Check the carb throttle shafts, wiggle them when the
> >  car is failing and see if rpms improve... If so you need a complete
> >  carb rebuild.
> >
> >  Good luck -
> >
> >  Alan

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 03:13:25 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 17:13:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <CAAh8etnf6_E6CSt-rCWMXcM6hDV9cDZRfFSAJu5atYhacNYMbg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9C507295B698470DA135088CE2B822A1@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<1315205286.2294.YahooMailClassic@web130213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<CAAh8etnf6_E6CSt-rCWMXcM6hDV9cDZRfFSAJu5atYhacNYMbg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK3DqyLo23JUVVUoCbrE4WXS8FD-o+GXL=5cD4i_0=AAw@mail.gmail.com>

I agree, it looks nice, except for the interior which is a step backwards...


On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 4:56 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:

> Although I would always prefer the original shape, a classic of 1950s
> sports
> car design, I have to say that for a mid 1960s kit car design that body
> shape is pretty damn good. I think it works from pretty much all angles.
>
> The thing is though, it's no longer really a Healey so you may as well go
> the whole way and drop a small block chevy in it.
>
> It's unique and attractive but I wonder who is going to pay 69,000 dollars
> for it.
>
> Derek

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Mon Sep  5 03:59:08 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 11:59:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] list members meeting at Goodwood
In-Reply-To: <6052EEFB-E11A-48B6-B374-F557FEE9810F@gmail.com>
References: <6052EEFB-E11A-48B6-B374-F557FEE9810F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E649D6C.9040400@bredband.net>

Hi
I'll try to be there, and also "persuade" some Swedish friends.

Per in Sweden

carol westcott skrev 2011-09-05 06:07:
> It seems that there will be a bunch of us on the list that will be attending Goodwood.
> It might be interesting if we could meet up at one place at one time.
> It has been suggested that we could meet at the Healey pits at 12:00 noon Saturday.
> Sounds like a good idea.
>
> Send a note If you would like to meet up, I will keep everyone on one list so we can get connected
>
> See you there,
>
> Rob
>
> 55healey at comcast.net
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3876 - Release Date: 09/04/11

From segocl at aol.com  Mon Sep  5 06:31:34 2011
From: segocl at aol.com (Christopher Sego)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 08:31:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 59' Sprite Recommended Tires
Message-ID: <52083AE3-D346-484D-984B-9CC2875648C1@aol.com>

I'm a novice to British Cars and it has come time to replace the tires on my
59' Bug-eye.  I've read that the recommended tire is the 145/80R13 but that
many people use 155/80R13.  I've only found 145's at Coker tire.  They are
more expensive than the 155's I've found other places, and Coker doesn't
install.  I've found 155's available many places and at good prices, but I'm
worried that the handling won't be as good.  Please advise.  Thanks,

Christopher Sego
Ocoee, FL
segocl at aol.com

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 06:45:09 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 08:45:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <1315208634.52523.YahooMailClassic@web112501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1315208634.52523.YahooMailClassic@web112501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJTyXLQkTcXwvTG96x6U=G76uwpUjnJdJ34bTTQ8hHQHM6ksTA@mail.gmail.com>

I found Marty's explain of how our cars works very interesting. I
don't necessarily understand it all, but like Patrick said, we have
gained some level of understanding that probably a lot of us did not
have. There could be a few of us here that don't know that he sells
frames, but just knowing that he does does not mean that he is
promoting his business when he gives us information. If David Nock
says that he can supply a part that someone wants, it seems to be OK,
and I hope he will continue to do so. When Marty gives an explaination
it is self promotion. Is there something more going on here? I don't
know, I don't care. Do what I'm doing: Just let it go. Too many other
things are way more important.

Just my opinion.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 06:48:36 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 20:48:36 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKbwAc1H_htzjMQ6Y6WN_XPw8FDXOpUfKBahvcat2q3Zg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Noel -

I looked up my recollection on this, and I realized it was on the Jaguar
list where I got a good suggestion.  It was recommended that this dry film
lubricant is ideal to put on spring leaves:

http://www.slipplate.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

Alan

On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 4:18 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> The conventional wisdom a while back was to insert teflon leaves.  The
> main issue is anti-squeak, not corrosion.
>
> The better option is to go with a high pressure spray dry film
> lubricant and coat the leaves prior to assembly.  This has the added
> benefit of repelling moisture from the steel, preventing corrosion.
>
> I believe there's some good dry film lubricants ised in the shipping
> industry... Someone on the list had a good recommendation for this a
> while back.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On 9/5/11, Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa at iinet.net.au> wrote:
> > Listers
> >
> > I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting the
> > three zinc interleaves to the rears?  The spring works can't supply the
> > interleaves and claim that they aren't necessary.  However I feel they
> > were there for a reason and I am happy to try to source the material and
> > supply to the spring works if they are beneficial
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Noel Standfast
> > AHOC Qld
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  5 06:49:46 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 05:49:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <CAAh8etnf6_E6CSt-rCWMXcM6hDV9cDZRfFSAJu5atYhacNYMbg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1315226986.97645.YahooMailClassic@web161211.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

The things I find interesting about  this car is it's steel bodied, rather
than fiberglass and that no one seems to know its history.  It was apparently
found in LA and there's a lot of speculation that it was a prototype for a
Universal Plastics creation called the Cougar GT or
Monza:   http://www.forgottenfiberglass.com/?p=9386    More WAGs here: 
http://bringatrailer.com/2011/03/01/bring-a-trailer-whatzit-55/

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 9/5/11, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The California
To: "Jackson Krall" <jackson_krall at yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, September 5, 2011, 4:56 AM

Although I would always prefer the original shape, a classic of 1950s sports
car design, I have to say that for a mid 1960s kit car design that body
shape is pretty damn good. I think it works from pretty much all angles.

The thing is though, it's no longer really a Healey so you may as well go
the whole way and drop a small block chevy in it.

It's unique and attractive but I wonder who is going to pay 69,000 dollars
for it.

Derek

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Sep  5 07:12:01 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 09:12:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc6bcd$66b72c90$342585b0$@net>

Two things about the BN1 rear leaf springs.

1. If you refurbishing original springs, the clips are set up to allow for
the thickness to take the interleaves. Removing the interleaves will leave
extra space and a lot of loose rattling will result. So some sort of
interleaves should be in place.
2. Be aware that BN1's using the earlier spiral bevel Austin Axle have a
much taller centre pin that sticks up and engages the fiber shim, the alloy
wedge, and finally the axle locating element. Today's new replacement
springs do NOT have a pin that is long enough to engage through all these
layers. In this application, a longer pin must be installed, whether it be
an original pin or a fabricated replacement. I am not aware of a new proper
length pin being available for this early axle application.

I refurbished a pair of original leaf springs for a BT7 many years ago and
was able to buy a roll of black Teflon from a truck spring repair business.
I could cut it with shears. It fit in perfectly and took up the space of the
original zinc leaves, and was quiet.

Rich

On 9/5/11, Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa at iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Listers
>
> I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting the
> three zinc interleaves to the rears?  The spring works can't supply the
> interleaves and claim that they aren't necessary.  However I feel they
> were there for a reason and I am happy to try to source the material and
> supply to the spring works if they are beneficial
>
> thanks
>
> Noel Standfast
> AHOC Qld

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Sep  5 07:20:10 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 07:20:10 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <4E646E46.8080802@chello.nl>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au><459DA181F3144AB987A804D1D44DCB98@PatrickQuinnPC><4E645FA7.80909@justbrits.com>
	<4E646E46.8080802@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <5A8D659A69444CFC9550F70BF32AEA0A@oscar>

Did you all watch the video of the Healey rear suspension at work that
Magnus sent last week? You may argue that was a race car, but actually a
street car sees far more abuse from crappy roads and weather issues. So yes,
the inserts are important. IMHO.
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world



The zinc acts as an anti-corrosive medium to prevent rust on the sliding 
surfaces of the spring leaves. It works the same as a galvanized 
surface. I do not thing the intention was that it would act as a 
lubricant but the friction coefficient between steel and zinc could well 
be a bit lower than with steel on steel.
I feel the zinc is not really needed as long as you keep the spring 
leaves well lubricated and rust free, but that of course means very 
regular maintainance!!!! and we all service our grease nipples every few 
thousand miles don't we, so it should be no problem.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Sep  5 07:23:37 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 06:23:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <CAJTyXLQkTcXwvTG96x6U=G76uwpUjnJdJ34bTTQ8hHQHM6ksTA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1315208634.52523.YahooMailClassic@web112501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAJTyXLQkTcXwvTG96x6U=G76uwpUjnJdJ34bTTQ8hHQHM6ksTA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2097DE20-114C-44BC-8B47-36B05B939CE4@att.net>

Last week Marty emailed me about welding the front a arm bracket to my BN2
frame. He schooled me on proper alignment for the kingpin. He encouraged me to
call him and during our conversation he said I could call back any time for
help. Marty never tried to sell me anything and he just sounded genuinely
concerned that I get my frame done right.  If you want one of his frames, I
believe you would have a thoroughly researched and proven product, but I never
got the hard sell.  The impression I got was that Marty is just another Healey
nut like the rest of us.
Mike MacLean


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 5, 2011, at 5:45, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I found Marty's explain of how our cars works very interesting. I
> don't necessarily understand it all, but like Patrick said, we have
> gained some level of understanding that probably a lot of us did not
> have. There could be a few of us here that don't know that he sells
> frames, but just knowing that he does does not mean that he is
> promoting his business when he gives us information. If David Nock
> says that he can supply a part that someone wants, it seems to be OK,
> and I hope he will continue to do so. When Marty gives an explaination
> it is self promotion. Is there something more going on here? I don't
> know, I don't care. Do what I'm doing: Just let it go. Too many other
> things are way more important.
>
> Just my opinion.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep  5 07:28:49 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 08:28:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <1315226986.97645.YahooMailClassic@web161211.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1315226986.97645.YahooMailClassic@web161211.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <749C4538E8CA4D9FBF1407CEB0F11650@GregPC>

Reboodying projects...isn't that why they made so many VW Beetles?

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Sep  5 07:33:44 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 15:33:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 59' Sprite Recommended Tires
In-Reply-To: <52083AE3-D346-484D-984B-9CC2875648C1@aol.com>
References: <52083AE3-D346-484D-984B-9CC2875648C1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E64CFB8.302@chello.nl>

A good site to compare tire sizes is:

www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

The best option would be 175/70R13, a tire that is available from most 
top brands like Michelin, Pirelli, Bridgestone, Goodyear, Firestone, 
Dunlop, Toyo, Nokian, Uniroyal etc.
They have nearly the same diameter and are only 30mm / 1 1/4" wider, 
which would help grip and looks.
They would fit a 4,5" to 5,5" wide rim.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep  5 07:43:54 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 08:43:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 59' Sprite Recommended Tires
In-Reply-To: <52083AE3-D346-484D-984B-9CC2875648C1@aol.com>
References: <52083AE3-D346-484D-984B-9CC2875648C1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4D82145206C8486A8412A534F6E7F55C@GregPC>

The 145s are more expensive because it is a specialty size that no one wants 
anymore except people with bugeyes (that they want to keep stock) and maybe 
Fiats or early Spitfires or whatever.

All other things being equal the 155s should handle a little better than the 
145s.  The 145s may feel a little more light and nimble, the 155s a little 
better grip  (and by the way, if you haven't driven your bugeye yet it will 
feel quite light and nimble compared to most anything else on the road with 
either tire).

The Sprite can handle the 155s and certianly not be "over tired" with them. 
If your goal is strict originality go with the 145s, otherwise the 155 size 
would probably be the way to go.

Greg Lemon

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Mon Sep  5 07:41:47 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 05:41:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?BN1_rear_springs_zinc_interleaves?=
Message-ID: <20110905134147.30388.qmail@hoster902.com>

I used high-pressure teflon tape, 2" wide - called "Dynaglide" available from sailing suppliers.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Mon Sep  5 07:54:04 2011
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 09:54:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for Healey Updates and add Big Healey Event
Message-ID: <13541216.1315230844634.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

John,

thank you for all of your Labor in creating and keeping this site growing!  It
is appreciated by all around the globe.  Happy Labor Day!

Can you add our event to the site?  It is coming up at the end of October.
Here is a link to the youtube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKWM2pJaKK0&feature=youtu.be.

There is only two weeks before the host site releases the rooms that are not
taken...deadline Sept 19. (the Atlanta AHCA booked he entire lodge for this
event)  We have over 80 registrations already and expect to see the total
around 100.  That means 100 Healeys at one site at one time!

Here is more about the event....including our special guests Gerry and Marion
Coker...also Reid Trummel!  It seems our regional event has national
attendance.  We have registrations from as far as Dallas, TX and Canada!

See our site:  http://atlantahealeys.org/.

October 20 b October 23, 2011
Lake Guntersville State Park Resort, AL (NE corner of AL)

Southeastern Classic XXV
Hosted by the Atlanta AHCA.

Special Guests: Gerry Coker, Marian Coker and Reid Trummel

Contact Sander Slomovic or Debbie Harrington at 678.595.5022 or
dhandss at gmail.com for more information.  Get the Registration Form at:
www.atlantahealeys.org.



This is the 25th year for SE Classic!   Expect to see 100+ Healeys at this
Healey only event!
We have reserved the entire lodge for our Healey friends.  The lodge overlooks
Lake Guntersville and the mountains. Expect to see beautiful fall colors and
enjoy cooler weather this time of year.
We are planning many fun events: a Rallye through the mountains, a Popular Car
Show, Gymkhana, Arts/Crafts and Funkhana.  This regional event will be like a
mini-Conclave or Rendezvous!

Thanks again,

John Homonek
Atlanta AHCA
1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen-Healey




John Homonek
bn7 at mindspring.com

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Mon Sep  5 08:26:29 2011
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (Mike Brouillette)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 10:26:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The California
In-Reply-To: <749C4538E8CA4D9FBF1407CEB0F11650@GregPC>
References: <1315226986.97645.YahooMailClassic@web161211.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<749C4538E8CA4D9FBF1407CEB0F11650@GregPC>
Message-ID: <C623498E0246428CAE71A02BDE7C6F75@Healey>

Didn't many cars of the 20s and 30s and even a couple Ferraris get rebodied? 
>From what I have been able to read about this one it is a one-off not a mass 
produced rebody like the Jamaican.

Don't think I'd buy it, but don't hate it...

Mike Brouillette
59 BT7

-----Original Message----- 
From: Greg Lemon
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 9:28 AM
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The California

Reboodying projects...isn't that why they made so many VW Beetles?
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.brouillette at comcast.net 

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep  5 08:35:58 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 07:35:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110905073434.0206efe0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

You can get .027 zinc sheet from a company called Rotometals.

John

>On 9/5/11, Noel and Helen standfast <> wrote:
> > Listers
> >
> > I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting the
> > three zinc interleaves to the rears?
> > Noel Standfast

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 09:00:41 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 17:00:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
Message-ID: <001601cc6bdc$972eddf0$c58c99d0$@gmail.com>

Hello Marty,

I am a happy owner of a BN2, am not a great expert on torsional rigidity,
but could you name some cars of the era that had better torsional rigidity?

Why do you say the Healey ladder design has the "poorest road handling
design"?

After all, it's not quite a ladder design with the X brace in the middle.

Tadek

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  5 09:30:21 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 08:30:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 59' Sprite Recommended Tires
In-Reply-To: <52083AE3-D346-484D-984B-9CC2875648C1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1315236621.24901.YahooMailClassic@web30306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good Day;  Here are a couple of web pages that may help you.
 
http://www.racedunlop.com/40sand50s.php
 
http://www.racedunlop.com/60sand70s.php 
 
Both of these pages are from Vintage Tyres Ltd's website and can be downloaded
as pdf files.
 
Hope this helps sort out your decision for your Bugeye tires.

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada                          - Keep
Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Mon, 9/5/11, Christopher Sego <segocl at aol.com> wrote: << I'm a novice
to British Cars and it has come time to replace the tires on my 59' Bug-eye. 
I've read that the recommended tire is the 145/80R13 but that many people use
155/80R13.  I've only found 145's at Coker tire.  They are more expensive than
the 155's I've found other places, and Coker doesn't install.  I've found
155's available many places and at good prices, but I'm worried that the
handling won't be as good.  Please advise.  Thanks, Christopher Sego Ocoee, FL

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 09:53:02 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 08:53:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Martin
Message-ID: <CACPMnYqqhdZqY4RpyYGZOgQQbW2S7AamJyN970VhR1JpW0GTBQ@mail.gmail.com>

Is the hostility directed towards Martin, and not other vendors, a function
of his product not being an OEM spec product? I can't imagine Martin has
said anything offensive, or made off color jokes...
 I have never met him, but I find his comments informed, his knowledge far
beyond mine and his products seems to address fail points of our beloved
cars. No one attacks Cape International or the Welch's for their non OEM
products.
Whats up?????
I appreciated his comments on the frame and the issues related to adjusting
doors, as I am having issues re-hanging mine after painting my car.

-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 10:03:25 2011
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 12:03:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <001601cc6bdc$972eddf0$c58c99d0$@gmail.com>
References: <001601cc6bdc$972eddf0$c58c99d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc6be5$58f2c610$0ad85230$@com>

I have both an MGB GT and an AH 3000.  No question the MGB handles better
and seems (I am no expert, just an observer) to hold the road better.

Larry Swift

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 11:01 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps

Hello Marty,

I am a happy owner of a BN2, am not a great expert on torsional rigidity,
but could you name some cars of the era that had better torsional rigidity?

Why do you say the Healey ladder design has the "poorest road handling
design"?

After all, it's not quite a ladder design with the X brace in the middle.

Tadek
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Sep  5 10:16:58 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 12:16:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for Healey Updates and add Big Healey  Event
In-Reply-To: <13541216.1315230844634.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <13541216.1315230844634.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <019901cc6be7$3d635840$b82a08c0$@verizon.net>

Done.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John H
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 9:54 AM
To: Healey List; john at healey6.com
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for Healey Updates and add Big Healey Event

John,

thank you for all of your Labor in creating and keeping this site growing!
It is appreciated by all around the globe.  Happy Labor Day!

Can you add our event to the site?  It is coming up at the end of October.
Here is a link to the youtube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKWM2pJaKK0&feature=youtu.be.

There is only two weeks before the host site releases the rooms that are not
taken...deadline Sept 19. (the Atlanta AHCA booked he entire lodge for this
event)  We have over 80 registrations already and expect to see the total
around 100.  That means 100 Healeys at one site at one time!

Here is more about the event....including our special guests Gerry and
Marion Coker...also Reid Trummel!  It seems our regional event has national
attendance.  We have registrations from as far as Dallas, TX and Canada!

See our site:  http://atlantahealeys.org/.

October 20 b October 23, 2011
Lake Guntersville State Park Resort, AL (NE corner of AL)

Southeastern Classic XXV
Hosted by the Atlanta AHCA.

Special Guests: Gerry Coker, Marian Coker and Reid Trummel

Contact Sander Slomovic or Debbie Harrington at 678.595.5022 or
dhandss at gmail.com for more information.  Get the Registration Form at:
www.atlantahealeys.org.



This is the 25th year for SE Classic!   Expect to see 100+ Healeys at this
Healey only event!
We have reserved the entire lodge for our Healey friends.  The lodge
overlooks Lake Guntersville and the mountains. Expect to see beautiful fall
colors and enjoy cooler weather this time of year.
We are planning many fun events: a Rallye through the mountains, a Popular
Car Show, Gymkhana, Arts/Crafts and Funkhana.  This regional event will be
like a mini-Conclave or Rendezvous!

Thanks again,

John Homonek
Atlanta AHCA
1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen-Healey

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 10:17:01 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 18:17:01 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <000001cc6be5$58f2c610$0ad85230$@com>
References: <001601cc6bdc$972eddf0$c58c99d0$@gmail.com>
	<000001cc6be5$58f2c610$0ad85230$@com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmB88cEb7b7gQBq1oH8rWPwiPmJBA3TE6HfFepT7WxCW6w@mail.gmail.com>

But the MGB GT is a coupe - is not a fair comparision.

Gergo

From csooch1 at aol.com  Mon Sep  5 10:18:22 2011
From: csooch1 at aol.com (csooch1 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 12:18:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <8CE39FE3DF10B8F-56C-1BA29@webmail-d063.sysops.aol.com>
References: <487A1736-46F7-4401-A098-713ACE66E382@aol.com><CA+QDXmBNB5ft6B0duS+b=v2=oxzR_6+5s8X9ZM0UKVuJM_EtUA@mail.gmail.com>
	<000301cc6b21$645274c0$2cf75e40$@net>
	<8CE39FE3DF10B8F-56C-1BA29@webmail-d063.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE39FE90B6F909-56C-1BA6F@webmail-d063.sysops.aol.com>

Well, I didn't realize this topic was going to stir up so much controversy.  I
appreciate the comments from Rich, Martin and the others.  I have one thing to
say about the Jule frame...if I had an extra $8K laying around, we wouldn't
even be talking about this since I would already own one.  That's not the case
though, so I am where I am.

If I can get through to the meaning here it is that the inner body panels
behind the shut pillar and rear seat frame surround all provide some support
for the car.  The sills, outriggers, floors and other components that were
rotted have all been replaced years ago when I first started.  I think what I
am hearing from Rich is that if I support the car where he suggests, and then
get the gaps right, there shouldn't be any further sag once I weld in the rest
of the pieces.  I think that the single biggest contributor to keeping the car
from sagging is the portion of the rear inner body panel that welds to the
sill.  It is that part that holds the rear of the car from pushing up, by
imparting that force down onto the sill, which is why when they rot the car
inevitably sags.  This is where I am.  How much beyond a perfect door gap
should I flex the frame before I weld in the inner body panel repair (from
Kilmartin)?  Some say none, others say 3/16".  I will tack everything lightly
and try it before I fully weld.

In general the main frame rails are in decent shape as are the bulkheads and
their connections to the frame rails.  It really is pretty close all things
considered, and as much as I know it will offend some folks here, this car was
never going to be concours, and that isn't what I want anyway.  I have always
been looking for a nice driver, that I can drive every day if I so choose,
without having to worry about a paint chip ruining a $5k paint job.

As to the safety comments from Martin, I am certain that he has only my best
interest at heart and has helped me in the past several times for no financial
gain.  Like I said, if I had the money, I would have his chassis.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8





-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Chrysler <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: 'Austin Healey' <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>; 'Chris Masucci' <csooch1 at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 4, 2011 12:00 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Working on door gaps


Chris,
This job will go a lot better if you first establish your door gaps evenly
y the careful placing of the jack stands on the main chassis rails. Of
ourse make sure these main frame rails, X section, cross members and
utriggers are all in good condition and not twisted, damaged or rotted.
'd suggest the front stands be placed just ahead of the front outriggers,
he rear ones just behind the rear outriggers. Now recheck your door gaps.
 cannot over state that the main chassis may still be fine but when the
nner sills, ends of outriggers, even the floors are detached or removed,
hings will flex simply because the Healey IS NOT A FRAME BASED STRUCTURE.
t is a semi-unibody inner structure in which all the components work
ogether as a team to provide the necessary strength. Obviously with some of
he team "absent" the structure becomes less of the structure it is designed
o be.
lease read that last couple of sentences over a couple of times until you
nderstand what I'm saying here. Most folks just don't "get it".
Meanwhile if your chassis rails need "capping" then it's time for a new
hassis.
We import the excellent and exactingly accurate Kilmartin chassis from
ustralia. Then we build the car up on that. It maintains the absolute
ccuracy of detail of the originals with more than sufficient added strength
ue to heavying up the metal on the inside of the members. It's a wonderful
ubstructure on which to build an accurate car.
Rich Chrysler

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 10:27:06 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 18:27:06 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmB88cEb7b7gQBq1oH8rWPwiPmJBA3TE6HfFepT7WxCW6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001601cc6bdc$972eddf0$c58c99d0$@gmail.com>
	<000001cc6be5$58f2c610$0ad85230$@com>
	<CA+QDXmB88cEb7b7gQBq1oH8rWPwiPmJBA3TE6HfFepT7WxCW6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003301cc6be8$a7c65740$f75305c0$@gmail.com>

On top, it's a bit newer.



Let's compare any car that's developed prior to '56.



Tadek



From: Austin Healey [mailto:pajtamuvek at gmail.com]
Sent: 5 wrze6nia 2011 18:17
To: Team.net
Cc: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps



But the MGB GT is a coupe - is not a fair comparision.



Gergo

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 11:06:06 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 19:06:06 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <003301cc6be8$a7c65740$f75305c0$@gmail.com>
References: <001601cc6bdc$972eddf0$c58c99d0$@gmail.com>
	<000001cc6be5$58f2c610$0ad85230$@com>
	<CA+QDXmB88cEb7b7gQBq1oH8rWPwiPmJBA3TE6HfFepT7WxCW6w@mail.gmail.com>
	<003301cc6be8$a7c65740$f75305c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAAh8etnNz4Wm9cNNVTE+ZnF-P+jRwR6kfs1RbG5xJDuT65xxKg@mail.gmail.com>

The MGB GT is also a moncoque design

Design

On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 6:27 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <
tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:

> On top, it's a bit newer.
>
>
>
> Let's compare any car that's developed prior to '56.
>
>
>
> Tadek
>
>
>
> From: Austin Healey [mailto:pajtamuvek at gmail.com]
> Sent: 5 wrze6nia 2011 18:17
> To: Team.net
> Cc: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
>
>
>
> But the MGB GT is a coupe - is not a fair comparision.
>
>
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Sep  5 11:11:33 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 13:11:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110905073434.0206efe0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110905073434.0206efe0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001b01cc6bee$dd3e7c30$97bb7490$@net>

Where are Rotometals located?

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: 2011-09-05 10:36
To: hstandfa at iinet.net.au
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves

You can get .027 zinc sheet from a company called Rotometals.

John

>On 9/5/11, Noel and Helen standfast <> wrote:
> > Listers
> >
> > I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting the
> > three zinc interleaves to the rears?
> > Noel Standfast
_______________________________________________

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep  5 11:21:43 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 12:21:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <003301cc6be8$a7c65740$f75305c0$@gmail.com>
References: <001601cc6bdc$972eddf0$c58c99d0$@gmail.com><000001cc6be5$58f2c610$0ad85230$@com><CA+QDXmB88cEb7b7gQBq1oH8rWPwiPmJBA3TE6HfFepT7WxCW6w@mail.gmail.com>
	<003301cc6be8$a7c65740$f75305c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B21B05C1FF70481689188113EA70796C@GregPC>

>From seat of the pants feel the Healey frame/structure is stiffer than a 
TR2-3, but less rigid than an MGA.  The 100 was pretty good for its day, as 
I believe Geofrey Healey noted in one of the Healey books the whole thing 
was weakened/compromised by adding the length and weight for the 6 cylinder 
motor.

The Healey was good to maybe even ahead of its time for its design time in 
the early fifties, but auto technology grew by leaps and bounds from the 
early fiftes to the mid sixties, and the 3000 was certainly not state of the 
art in its final days.

Greg Lemon 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Sep  5 11:29:02 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 13:29:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <001b01cc6bee$dd3e7c30$97bb7490$@net>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
	<CAFBXTkJwN0HV5FUpV95ykxZxh87wsqVCP4osc3ErDoKBc_2D7w@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110905073434.0206efe0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<001b01cc6bee$dd3e7c30$97bb7490$@net>
Message-ID: <01da01cc6bf1$4e63de80$eb2b9b80$@verizon.net>

Look here:

http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/zincsheet027.htm


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 1:12 PM
To: 'john spaur'; hstandfa at iinet.net.au
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves

Where are Rotometals located?

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: 2011-09-05 10:36
To: hstandfa at iinet.net.au
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves

You can get .027 zinc sheet from a company called Rotometals.

John

>On 9/5/11, Noel and Helen standfast <> wrote:
> > Listers
> >
> > I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting
> > the three zinc interleaves to the rears?
> > Noel Standfast

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 11:44:31 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 13:44:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs zinc interleaves
In-Reply-To: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
References: <4E6456EB.6050002@iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B47Z3vzUz_pe9TADi_eLGXVks=W2zha=Xe-mymkAk=jcA@mail.gmail.com>

They were there to lubricate the leaves.  You can use sheets of teflon
instead, usually available from sailboat rigging shops.

Best--Michael Oritt
------------------
On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 12:58 AM, Noel and Helen standfast <
hstandfa at iinet.net.au> wrote:

> Listers
>
> I am putting my BN1 springs in for resetting, is it worth fitting the three
> zinc interleaves to the rears?  The spring works can't supply the
> interleaves and claim that they aren't necessary.  However I feel they were
> there for a reason and I am happy to try to source the material and supply
> to the spring works if they are beneficial
>
> thanks
>
> Noel Standfast
> AHOC Qld
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/michael.oritt@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com>

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Mon Sep  5 13:32:36 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 15:32:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
Message-ID: <40b7.3f2e2c4c.3b967dd4@aol.com>

I agree, but I can say that nothing quite feels like a 3000 on the  open 
road when you flip into overdrive and the car just kinda sucks down onto  the 
road and hits that cruise note in your head. Much different than the 100 I  
drive now. That said, the nimble feeling of my 100 makes my last 3000 seem  
"clunky" if that makes sense. 
    And then the "style" of the Austin-Healey is second  to none in my 
opinion.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
 
In a message dated 9/5/2011 10:32:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
glemon at neb.rr.com writes:

>From  seat of the pants feel the Healey frame/structure is stiffer than a 
TR2-3,  but less rigid than an MGA.  The 100 was pretty good for its day, 
as  
I believe Geofrey Healey noted in one of the Healey books the whole thing  
was weakened/compromised by adding the length and weight for the 6  
cylinder 
motor.

The Healey was good to maybe even ahead of its time  for its design time in 
the early fifties, but auto technology grew by  leaps and bounds from the 
early fiftes to the mid sixties, and the 3000  was certainly not state of 
the 
art in its final days.

Greg Lemon  
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon Sep  5 13:37:51 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 20:37:51 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Uprated shock absorber valves
Message-ID: <001101cc6c03$4cebdf50$e6c39df0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

I have a MkII BT7........................

So, I'll be fitting new rear springs later in the year and was wondering
about the rear shocks. Has anyone fitted the so-called "uprated valves"?
With what effect?

I'm still keen on this Alpine excursion next year and I know that the rear
end height and suspension is an area that'll need attention. Yes, I know
that height is a spring function, but I think that some of the tracks I've
chosen will be pretty bouncy! And my car's suspension is pretty
low/soggy....springs are possibly original!

 

Am watching the springs interleaving thread with interest. Not sure yet if
my new springs have the zinc, or anything. They appear to have clips on
either end which would possibly defy disassembly and reassembly. They look a
little "one time only". Haven't been there yet. 

 

I can say that one of the 4 bushes had the wrong internal size and had to be
drilled out a little!

Simon

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Mon Sep  5 15:06:20 2011
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 23:06:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Uprated shock absorber valves
In-Reply-To: <001101cc6c03$4cebdf50$e6c39df0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <001101cc6c03$4cebdf50$e6c39df0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <8BF753D5-B1C8-4B37-ACC0-E6F67AAD9B82@bornet.net>

You can easily up rate the valves you already have. Just put shims under the
big spring and tighten the nut above the small spring. This will  make the
shock stiffer in both directions of the lever.
Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com





5 sep 2011 kl. 21:37 skrev Simon Lachlan:

> I have a MkII BT7........................
>
> So, I'll be fitting new rear springs later in the year and was wondering
> about the rear shocks. Has anyone fitted the so-called "uprated valves"?
> With what effect?
>
> I'm still keen on this Alpine excursion next year and I know that the rear
> end height and suspension is an area that'll need attention. Yes, I know
> that height is a spring function, but I think that some of the tracks I've
> chosen will be pretty bouncy! And my car's suspension is pretty
> low/soggy....springs are possibly original!
>
>
>
> Am watching the springs interleaving thread with interest. Not sure yet if
> my new springs have the zinc, or anything. They appear to have clips on
> either end which would possibly defy disassembly and reassembly. They look
a
> little "one time only". Haven't been there yet.
>
>
>
> I can say that one of the 4 bushes had the wrong internal size and had to
be
> drilled out a little!
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 18:43:43 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 08:43:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Martin
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYqqhdZqY4RpyYGZOgQQbW2S7AamJyN970VhR1JpW0GTBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYqqhdZqY4RpyYGZOgQQbW2S7AamJyN970VhR1JpW0GTBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKam36NFFPHUmOe6LCXB6SCytqP=aGUw4BXkkNpBdDA3g@mail.gmail.com>

Ira -

I think Martin is a great guy and we are lucky to have his product as
part of the general part universe for our cars.

That being said every conversation I've had with him he's usually put
in some sort of dig/comment every time I mention that I have and want
to keep my frame as original.

I guess because of his way of communicating with owners that have/wish
to keep original style frames, sometime it comes bubbling back on
places like the list.

He has every right to be proud of his product, its just not for
everyone.  I guess some of our cars are getting quite valuable these
days and replacing a good or repairable frame with a Jule frame would
be financially questionable regardless of the handling benefits.  Of
course if you don't plan on selling then it really is up to you then.
I don't think it would qualify for Vintage racing, would it?

Cheers,

Alan




On 9/5/11, I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Is the hostility directed towards Martin, and not other vendors, a function
> of his product not being an OEM spec product? I can't imagine Martin has
> said anything offensive, or made off color jokes...
>  I have never met him, but I find his comments informed, his knowledge far
> beyond mine and his products seems to address fail points of our beloved
> cars. No one attacks Cape International or the Welch's for their non OEM
> products.
> Whats up?????
> I appreciated his comments on the frame and the issues related to adjusting
> doors, as I am having issues re-hanging mine after painting my car.
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  5 21:34:21 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 22:34:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone has a m
Message-ID: <21FA5ABC-2770-45E6-80ED-20CE556C28A3@yahoo.com>

Sent from my iPad

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  5 21:35:17 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 22:35:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone has a maxjax lift
Message-ID: <094C05E9-FB0C-4690-AC01-9458EFC6C4C3@yahoo.com>

All feedback is welcomed 

Jose

Sent from my iPad

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 21:44:14 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 11:44:14 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone has a maxjax lift
In-Reply-To: <094C05E9-FB0C-4690-AC01-9458EFC6C4C3@yahoo.com>
References: <094C05E9-FB0C-4690-AC01-9458EFC6C4C3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJpBQeJjBS4oBzW62q-pPi6R9434KFfEpzHyL+yS1EYGw@mail.gmail.com>

Yep - I just bought two and my mechanic here in HK just installed one of the
two in his shop.  He has a full lift and the Max Jax is his backup lift for
day jobs.

He swears by it, says it's a great unit.  I have not installed mine yet, but
I can tell you the quality of the build is very high.  The hydralic pump is
also available in 220 VAC.  He has one side of the lift mounted on an
anchored slider, so he can move one of the posts in and out depending on the
width of the car.

Seems the hydralic pump button was a bit wonky and needed some rewiring, but
otherwise perfect.  Their sales team is excellent as well.

The only limit is it isn't rated for huge cars, so I wouldn't put a Suburban
or an F350 on the thing.

Cheers,

Alan

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 11:35 AM, Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>wrote:

> All feedback is welcomed
>
> Jose
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  5 22:01:51 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 21:01:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Door gaps
Message-ID: <1315281711.69206.yint-ygo-j2me@web130211.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I hope to be embarking on this task in the not too distant future. Some years back I saw an article in a britcar mag about the resto of Michael Salters 100S. There was a photo of the chassis attop 2 level, parrallel beams  directly below the chassis rails. A picture being worth 1000 words, this was an aha moment.
When visiting Fourintune a few years back I was given a demonstration of how the parrallel beams are used for door gap adjustment. By placing a piece of timber between the chassis rails and the level parrallel beams and perpendicular to them, in the areas that Rich has described for jackstands, one can make gap adjustment by moving the timbers fore or aft. Looked really simple when done by Mr Kovacs. I have some 2x4x1/4 box steel tubing that I will use for the beams.
Best
JK

From 55healey at comcast.net  Mon Sep  5 22:32:59 2011
From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 21:32:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] list members meeting at Goodwood
Message-ID: <D9EDBE5A-9AB3-4643-AE61-34C08B662B88@comcast.net>

List members attending Goodwood,

I inadvertently posted this note from my laptop and it bounced as it  
is not a member of the list.
So this one should get through.

Hi,
It seems that there will be a bunch of us on the list that will be  
attending Goodwood.
It might be interesting if we could meet up at one place at one time.
It has been suggested that we could meet at the Healey pits at 12:00  
noon Saturday.
Sounds like a good idea.

Send a note If you would like to meet up, I will keep everyone on one  
list so we can get connected

See you there,

Rob

55healey at comcast.net

I will be on my laptop at:   cwestc9 at gmail.com
(it is now applying to be a member of the list)

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep  5 23:24:42 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 22:24:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter nob - original?
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110905221751.02065e30@pop.att.yahoo.com>

The shifter nob for me 1962 tri-carb is a flat-topped chrome nob with 
cloisonne inlay. On the flat-top is an outer red circle with "AUSTIN 
HEALY" and a black center dot with a crest.

Is this original? If not what was and where is it available?

Thanks,
John Spaur
"62 BT7

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Tue Sep  6 01:44:30 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2011 09:44:30 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter nob - original?
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110905221751.02065e30@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110905221751.02065e30@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E65CF5E.5070700@bredband.net>

John
If the text really is "AUSTIN HEALY" it's definitely not original. It's 
misspelled.
Sorry, couldn't resist. On the other hand, I have never seen one that's 
chromed.

Per

john spaur skrev 2011-09-06 07:24:
> The shifter nob for me 1962 tri-carb is a flat-topped chrome nob with
> cloisonne inlay. On the flat-top is an outer red circle with "AUSTIN
> HEALY" and a black center dot with a crest.
>
> Is this original? If not what was and where is it available?
>
> Thanks,
> John Spaur
> "62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3879 - Release Date: 09/05/11

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 02:54:14 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 10:54:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter nob - original?
In-Reply-To: <4E65CF5E.5070700@bredband.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110905221751.02065e30@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<4E65CF5E.5070700@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <CAAh8etm2wu5M+RRQttVAwB_z6+17Na_qfJ-noykZDPbknfN6jg@mail.gmail.com>

John

It's not original.

All six cylinders had the same gear knob. The round black ball with the gear
shift pattern marked in white.

AH Spares sell them and imagine Moss, SC and the other suppliers do to.

Derek

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 9:44 AM, Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>wrote:

> John
> If the text really is "AUSTIN HEALY" it's definitely not original. It's
> misspelled.
> Sorry, couldn't resist. On the other hand, I have never seen one that's
> chromed.
>
> Per
>
> john spaur skrev 2011-09-06 07:24:
>
>> The shifter nob for me 1962 tri-carb is a flat-topped chrome nob with
>> cloisonne inlay. On the flat-top is an outer red circle with "AUSTIN
>> HEALY" and a black center dot with a crest.
>>
>> Is this original? If not what was and where is it available?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> John Spaur
>> "62 BT7
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/healeyguy@**bredband.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3879 - Release Date: 09/05/11
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com>

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Tue Sep  6 04:52:23 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 06:52:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone has a maxjax lift
In-Reply-To: <094C05E9-FB0C-4690-AC01-9458EFC6C4C3@yahoo.com>
References: <094C05E9-FB0C-4690-AC01-9458EFC6C4C3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE3A9A312D83BB-F44-EB71@webmail-d151.sysops.aol.com>

 I've had my MaxJax for about a year and am completely happy with it.  It's
heavy duty, doesn't take up too much space in the garage, and works great.

Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY
1960 BN7








-----Original Message-----
From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Sep 5, 2011 11:35 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone has a maxjax lift


All feedback is welcomed



Jose



Sent from my iPad

_______________________________________________

Healeys at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Sep  6 06:48:52 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 12:48:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter nob - original?
In-Reply-To: <CAAh8etm2wu5M+RRQttVAwB_z6+17Na_qfJ-noykZDPbknfN6jg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20110906124852.RFDZI.252466.root@hrndva-web27-z01>

I think Amco sold those or similar popular aftermarket accessory back in the day

---- Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote: 
> John
> 
> It's not original.
> 
> All six cylinders had the same gear knob. The round black ball with the gear
> shift pattern marked in white.
> 
> AH Spares sell them and imagine Moss, SC and the other suppliers do to.
> 
> Derek
> 
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 9:44 AM, Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>wrote:
> 
> > John
> > If the text really is "AUSTIN HEALY" it's definitely not original. It's
> > misspelled.
> > Sorry, couldn't resist. On the other hand, I have never seen one that's
> > chromed.
> >
> > Per
> >
> > john spaur skrev 2011-09-06 07:24:
> >
> >> The shifter nob for me 1962 tri-carb is a flat-topped chrome nob with
> >> cloisonne inlay. On the flat-top is an outer red circle with "AUSTIN
> >> HEALY" and a black center dot with a crest.
> >>
> >> Is this original? If not what was and where is it available?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> John Spaur
> >> "62 BT7
> >> ______________________________**_________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/healeyguy@**bredband.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> No virus found in this message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3879 - Release Date: 09/05/11
> >>
> > ______________________________**_________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com

From dpaye at crocker.com  Tue Sep  6 08:08:03 2011
From: dpaye at crocker.com (Donald Paye)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 10:08:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone has a maxjax lift
In-Reply-To: <8CE3A9A312D83BB-F44-EB71@webmail-d151.sysops.aol.com>
References: <094C05E9-FB0C-4690-AC01-9458EFC6C4C3@yahoo.com>
	<8CE3A9A312D83BB-F44-EB71@webmail-d151.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4443E54B26BD43008645DA6ABE6970D7@DonaldPayePC>

I have had a Max Jax for two years now and am very pleased with it's quality 
and operation. Recently completed an overhaul of my 100 including stripping 
all of the body panels. Being able to set the work height saved a lot on my 
back and made the work go twice as fast. Cleaning the engine bay, running 
the new wiring harness while standing in the engine bay made life so much 
easier.

Don Paye
Shelburne Falls, MA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <npaul72464 at aol.com>
To: <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anyone has a maxjax lift


> I've had my MaxJax for about a year and am completely happy with it.  It's
> heavy duty, doesn't take up too much space in the garage, and works great.
>
> Ned Paulsen
> Webster, NY
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Sep 5, 2011 11:35 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Anyone has a maxjax lift
>
>
> All feedback is welcomed
>
>
>
> Jose
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
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>
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>
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> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dpaye at crocker.com

From jagwarman at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 08:18:54 2011
From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 08:18:54 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Lever shock rebuilding
Message-ID: <CAC9kS9HHCCyb4iD1ruPdwjZBxFPtjpJS0b-QFHmyma4m=L3Q2Q@mail.gmail.com>

A few months ago I ran across a guy on ebay that rebuilds lever shocks. He
does them differently with a bearing and or uprated seal. Does anyone have
experience with this rebuilder? It wasn't apple hydraulics. Also since then
I have missplaced who he is. Does anyone know who he is and any info on this
shock rebuilding?
Thanks Frederich

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Tue Sep  6 08:24:30 2011
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 10:24:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lever shock rebuilding
In-Reply-To: <CAC9kS9HHCCyb4iD1ruPdwjZBxFPtjpJS0b-QFHmyma4m=L3Q2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAC9kS9HHCCyb4iD1ruPdwjZBxFPtjpJS0b-QFHmyma4m=L3Q2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E4012EEAA6@s07.frakes-eng.com>

Rear Lever Shock Rebuilds - Worldwide Auto Parts, 2517 Siefurth Road,
Madison WI 608-223-9400 or 800-362-1025. Ask for Peter Caldwell." ...



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frederich Ficke
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 10:19 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Lever shock rebuilding

A few months ago I ran across a guy on ebay that rebuilds lever shocks.
He
does them differently with a bearing and or uprated seal. Does anyone
have
experience with this rebuilder? It wasn't apple hydraulics. Also since
then
I have missplaced who he is. Does anyone know who he is and any info on
this
shock rebuilding?
Thanks Frederich
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com


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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 10:49:14 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 02:49:14 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Uprated shock absorber valves
In-Reply-To: <4e6527d4.02938e0a.3de9.62f6SMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <4e6527d4.02938e0a.3de9.62f6SMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <3AD48462-0BAB-4385-9F2D-307C967281F3@gmail.com>

Hey Simon,
Remember that Austin sedan I posted about (yeah, in the US) a few  
weeks ago?
Well, it was actually a Healey / BMC Special Tuning Parts Mule.
You know. It had the 3.5 diff fitted as standard. The diff ratio most  
Healey guys want. It was an auto.
And it also had the Healey Special Tuning armstong shock valves. And  
the Healey BMC special tuning negative camber front shock arms.
Pick a BMC 6 cyl rear wheel drive sedan of the era. Pretty much any  
big wolseley or big Austin sedan. You know, a 6 cyl sedan - and im  
talking old fashioned straight 6, C series.rear wheel drive.
How much heavier were those old sedans?? Look at their shock valves.  
Those shock valves were designed to stop a far heavier car than a  
Healey from wallowing. Ok. So they didn't work on a 6/110.... But  
those shock valves work a treat on a Healey!
Magnus is sort of right. You can adjust your springs by tightening  
your nuts. Or you can just fit the bigger valves (smaller) with the  
stronger springs from an appropriate sedan to your Healey.
A 3 minute upgrade. Or you can buy them from the usual suspects
And then you can do what Magnus said, if you want. And if you fit the  
front sedan arms, you will get negative camber too...z
Start with some sedan shock valves.
Very easy to remove at a wreckers.
;-)
My shock valves are all Austin/ Wolseley sedan. So are my front shock  
arms.
BMC Special Tuning via the BMC donor car parts Bin.
The way Donald and Geoff did it.
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

On 06/09/2011, at 5:37 AM, "Simon Lachlan"  
<simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> I have a MkII BT7........................
>
> So, I'll be fitting new rear springs later in the year and was  
> wondering
> about the rear shocks. Has anyone fitted the so-called "uprated  
> valves"?
> With what effect?
>
> I'm still keen on this Alpine excursion next year and I know that  
> the rear
> end height and suspension is an area that'll need attention. Yes, I  
> know
> that height is a spring function, but I think that some of the  
> tracks I've
> chosen will be pretty bouncy! And my car's suspension is pretty
> low/soggy....springs are possibly original!
> Am watching the springs interleaving thread with interest. Not sure  
> yet if
> my new springs have the zinc, or anything. They appear to have clips  
> on
> either end which would possibly defy disassembly and reassembly.  
> They look a
> little "one time only". Haven't been there yet.
> I can say that one of the 4 bushes had the wrong internal size and  
> had to be
> drilled out a little!
> Simon

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Sep  6 10:51:11 2011
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 11:51:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Martin
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYqqhdZqY4RpyYGZOgQQbW2S7AamJyN970VhR1JpW0GTBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYqqhdZqY4RpyYGZOgQQbW2S7AamJyN970VhR1JpW0GTBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C407E1B55C594DAD811886161DE5BD7C@DANSTROM>

I remember being at the Conclave in Galena and there was Marty, out in the
parking lot, working on cars for anyone who asked (along with Rich and a
several others as well). It was about 90% and sunny.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 10:53 AM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Martin

Is the hostility directed towards Martin, and not other vendors, a function
of his product not being an OEM spec product? I can't imagine Martin has
said anything offensive, or made off color jokes...
 I have never met him, but I find his comments informed, his knowledge far
beyond mine and his products seems to address fail points of our beloved
cars. No one attacks Cape International or the Welch's for their non OEM
products.
Whats up?????
I appreciated his comments on the frame and the issues related to adjusting
doors, as I am having issues re-hanging mine after painting my car.

-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Tue Sep  6 11:28:15 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 10:28:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Martin
In-Reply-To: <C407E1B55C594DAD811886161DE5BD7C@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <20110906132815.54GJ1.1793431.imail@fed1rmwml37>

Read the rules before bitching...

"2. Participation and contribution of related businesses and their employees in these discussions is quite welcome and valued."

Wilko.

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 12:09:03 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 04:09:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <40b7.3f2e2c4c.3b967dd4@aol.com>
References: <40b7.3f2e2c4c.3b967dd4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7F87C790-D7EA-44E1-9E38-25C9ECC0C1A3@gmail.com>

At some point you draw a line.
My line might not be your line.
As long as this list doesn't become full of spam, and self promotion,  
I'm good.
Rich, David Nock et al give FAR more than they take.
But when we talk about cars designed in the 1950's, there are just so  
many things you can improve. That's where my "line" comes in....  When  
do you draw that line???
4 plus litre alloy blocks and downport alloy heads from Dave  
Woodhouse/ the Healey Factory?  Great stuff.
5 speed smitty conversions?  Great  Redesigned chassis from Jule or  
others? Great too.
But it's now gotten to the point where you can build a "Healey Hotrod"  
- using "great" stuff.
So what have you got when you put a  jule chassis, a 4.4 litre  
Woodhouse block with downport alloy head, a smitty 5 speed Toyota box,  
Volvo brakes, and a custom built wide alloy body... Is it still a  
Healey???
What have you got? When is a Healey still a Healey and not a  
Cobraesque kit car??? ,,
Sure. The chassis was built as a production car chassis. So was the  
head/ engine tech.
That's what is great.
Me? I draw the same line as the FIA. Cosworth pistons, high quality  
steel cranks/ rods etc. Now that's awesome.
Because it looks standard.
And I'd just to draw another line.
Do the fastest race healeys use this stuff??
Nah. Nice to have if you are lazy & just  drive on the road.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 06/09/2011, at 5:32 AM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote:

> I agree, but I can say that nothing quite feels like a 3000 on the   
> open
> road when you flip into overdrive and the car just kinda sucks down  
> onto  the
> road and hits that cruise note in your head. Much different than the  
> 100 I
> drive now. That said, the nimble feeling of my 100 makes my last  
> 3000 seem
> "clunky" if that makes sense.
>    And then the "style" of the Austin-Healey is second  to none in my
> opinion.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
>
>
> In a message dated 9/5/2011 10:32:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> glemon at neb.rr.com writes:
>
> From  seat of the pants feel the Healey frame/structure is stiffer  
> than a
> TR2-3,  but less rigid than an MGA.  The 100 was pretty good for its  
> day,
> as
> I believe Geofrey Healey noted in one of the Healey books the whole  
> thing
> was weakened/compromised by adding the length and weight for the 6
> cylinder
> motor.
>
> The Healey was good to maybe even ahead of its time  for its design  
> time in
> the early fifties, but auto technology grew by  leaps and bounds  
> from the
> early fiftes to the mid sixties, and the 3000  was certainly not  
> state of
> the
> art in its final days.
>
> Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation   $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 12:14:25 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 11:14:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter nob - original?
In-Reply-To: <20110906124852.RFDZI.252466.root@hrndva-web27-z01>
References: <CAAh8etm2wu5M+RRQttVAwB_z6+17Na_qfJ-noykZDPbknfN6jg@mail.gmail.com>
	<20110906124852.RFDZI.252466.root@hrndva-web27-z01>
Message-ID: <CACOF-Tr-10wUxP-E0p9FQ89FndTt0VrLsyrJ4EvQhJeHD2omWQ@mail.gmail.com>

Amco sold wood and leather covered knobs, I don't recall chrome, but hey it
has been a lot of years since I bought a shifter knob for an LBC.
Rick

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 5:48 AM, <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> I think Amco sold those or similar popular aftermarket accessory back in
> the day
>
> ---- Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
> > John
> >
> > It's not original.
> >
> > All six cylinders had the same gear knob. The round black ball with the
> gear
> > shift pattern marked in white.
> >
> > AH Spares sell them and imagine Moss, SC and the other suppliers do to.
> >
> > Derek
> >
> > On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 9:44 AM, Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net
> >wrote:
> >
> > > John
> > > If the text really is "AUSTIN HEALY" it's definitely not original. It's
> > > misspelled.
> > > Sorry, couldn't resist. On the other hand, I have never seen one that's
> > > chromed.
> > >
> > > Per
> > >
> > > john spaur skrev 2011-09-06 07:24:
> > >
> > >> The shifter nob for me 1962 tri-carb is a flat-topped chrome nob with
> > >> cloisonne inlay. On the flat-top is an outer red circle with "AUSTIN
> > >> HEALY" and a black center dot with a crest.
> > >>
> > >> Is this original? If not what was and where is it available?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >> John Spaur
> > >> "62 BT7
> > >> ______________________________**_________________
> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > >>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/healeyguy@**bredband.net<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> -----
> > >> No virus found in this message.
> > >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > >> Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3879 - Release Date:
> 09/05/11
> > >>
> > > ______________________________**_________________
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> > > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Sep  6 12:36:28 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2011 20:36:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <7F87C790-D7EA-44E1-9E38-25C9ECC0C1A3@gmail.com>
References: <40b7.3f2e2c4c.3b967dd4@aol.com>
	<7F87C790-D7EA-44E1-9E38-25C9ECC0C1A3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E66682C.9080002@chello.nl>

Who cares? Be it concours or "improved", we all still have the same 
hobby, it is CARS!!!!!
It does not matter if you have to sift through or delete some stuff.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  6 15:59:35 2011
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 17:59:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sump pan leak
Message-ID: <SNT143-W13776D87FB9086C6EB8E48D41C0@phx.gbl>

I am helping out a fellow AHSTC member with his car.  He had several oil leaks
in addition to several other issues that he wants me to address.  Found all
the leaks and am looking for some input about one issue.  He has a small oil
leak from the front of the sump pan area.  I cleaned the area and ran the car
and have determined that it is not the timing cover or seal.  So it is either
the front of the sump gasket or the front engine plate gasket.  I am 99% sure
it is not the front engine plate gasket.  I'm planning on removing the sump
pan and gasket.  There is also a cork gasket that mounts between the front
engine plate and the front main cap- yes it could be that.  And there are two
cynical seals that run on both sides of the front main cap- again it could be
those.
So my two questions are:  1) if it is the front cork gasket sandwiched between
the front engine plate and the main cap and/or the side cynical seals, has
anyone had success sealing this up without removing the front engine plate?
2) I've always used hylomar sealant on the sump cork gasket, any other input?
Thanks, Shawn

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  6 16:21:47 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 15:21:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
In-Reply-To: <7F87C790-D7EA-44E1-9E38-25C9ECC0C1A3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1315347707.61294.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Chris,

Maybe we don't need to draw lines at all.   If we're on this list, we love
Healeys.  Some of us love concours cars, others want to make improvements,
others want to think totally out of the box.  So what?  We all pay homage to 
DMH in our own way.  In my thoughts, there's no one way to appreciating
Healeys.  If you don't like what someone does, avert your eyes and keep
quiet.  Folks were attracted to Healeys because they were different.  Express
that Healey individuality as you see fit.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Tue, 9/6/11, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame torsional rigidity - was: Working on door gaps
To: "ATIGHTPROD at aol.com" <ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
"tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com" <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2011, 2:09 PM

At some point you draw a line.
My line might not be your line.
As long as this list doesn't become full of spam, and self promotion, I'm
good.
Rich, David Nock et al give FAR more than they take.
But when we talk about cars designed in the 1950's, there are just so many
things you can improve. That's where my "line" comes in....  When do you draw
that line???
4 plus litre alloy blocks and downport alloy heads from Dave Woodhouse/ the
Healey Factory?  Great stuff.
5 speed smitty conversions?  Great  Redesigned chassis from Jule or others?
Great too.
But it's now gotten to the point where you can build a "Healey Hotrod" - using
"great" stuff.
So what have you got when you put a  jule chassis, a 4.4 litre Woodhouse block
with downport alloy head, a smitty 5 speed Toyota box, Volvo brakes, and a
custom built wide alloy body... Is it still a Healey???
What have you got? When is a Healey still a Healey and not a Cobraesque kit
car??? ,,
Sure. The chassis was built as a production car chassis. So was the head/
engine tech.
That's what is great.
Me? I draw the same line as the FIA. Cosworth pistons, high quality steel
cranks/ rods etc. Now that's awesome.
Because it looks standard.
And I'd just to draw another line.
Do the fastest race healeys use this stuff??
Nah. Nice to have if you are lazy & just  drive on the road.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 06/09/2011, at 5:32 AM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote:

> I agree, but I can say that nothing quite feels like a 3000 on the  open
> road when you flip into overdrive and the car just kinda sucks down onto 
the
> road and hits that cruise note in your head. Much different than the 100 I
> drive now. That said, the nimble feeling of my 100 makes my last 3000 seem
> "clunky" if that makes sense.
>    And then the "style" of the Austin-Healey is second  to none in my
> opinion.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
>
>
> In a message dated 9/5/2011 10:32:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> glemon at neb.rr.com writes:
>
> From  seat of the pants feel the Healey frame/structure is stiffer than a
> TR2-3,  but less rigid than an MGA.  The 100 was pretty good for its day,
> as
> I believe Geofrey Healey noted in one of the Healey books the whole thing
> was weakened/compromised by adding the length and weight for the 6
> cylinder
> motor.
>
> The Healey was good to maybe even ahead of its time  for its design time in
> the early fifties, but auto technology grew by  leaps and bounds from the
> early fiftes to the mid sixties, and the 3000  was certainly not state of
> the
> art in its final days.
>
> Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation   $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Tue Sep  6 16:42:40 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 18:42:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter knob- original?
Message-ID: <3D55F22856F1439F92355E6A1BE53B24@9535DEE118EC44B>

John

It almost seemed that there were more Healeys around fitted with Amco shift
knobs than originals, back in the day.

Here is the full colour Amco shift knob page and its Application List from the
beautiful 1969 Vilem B. Haan motoring accessories catalog.  It shows knobs in
wood, leather and chrome.  It also shows that the Healey 4-cyl thread was 3/8
by 20,  and the 6-cyl was 3/8 by 16.

Peter

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Amco knobs0192.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Amco knobs list0193.jpg]

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Sep  6 17:19:19 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 18:19:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter knob- original?
In-Reply-To: <3D55F22856F1439F92355E6A1BE53B24@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <3D55F22856F1439F92355E6A1BE53B24@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <5C9813A371394881A5652F58D22E0ED3@GregPC>

Thanks Peter, I was going to dig through the old ads, I think I have seen 
the same one in some of my old Road and Tracks, hence the earlier comments, 
and yes, back in the day the Amco knob was a very popular accesory, they 
bring big bucks on E-bay these days if in good shape, I think the wood and 
and leather were more popular, at least in the parts of the world where it 
gets cold in the winter, so maybe that is why the chrome ones are not as 
well remembered.

Greg 

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 17:50:57 2011
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 19:50:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Uprated shock absorber valves
In-Reply-To: <8BF753D5-B1C8-4B37-ACC0-E6F67AAD9B82@bornet.net>
References: <8BF753D5-B1C8-4B37-ACC0-E6F67AAD9B82@bornet.net>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PK=DLfDmL8e2tcwz+QEpESNLpYsFNy496MM9ktxUD+zRA@mail.gmail.com>

Do you mean put shims under the front coil spring?   Wouldn't that raise the
height of the car?   I'm a bit confused.

- Tom

On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 5:06 PM, Magnus Karlsson
<magnuskarlsson at bornet.net>wrote:

> You can easily up rate the valves you already have. Just put shims under
> the
> big spring and tighten the nut above the small spring. This will  make the
> shock stiffer in both directions of the lever.
> Magnus Karlsson
>
> www.concourshealeys.com
>
>
>
>
>
> 5 sep 2011 kl. 21:37 skrev Simon Lachlan:
>
> > I have a MkII BT7........................
> >
> > So, I'll be fitting new rear springs later in the year and was wondering
> > about the rear shocks. Has anyone fitted the so-called "uprated valves"?
> > With what effect?
> >
> > I'm still keen on this Alpine excursion next year and I know that the
> rear
> > end height and suspension is an area that'll need attention. Yes, I know
> > that height is a spring function, but I think that some of the tracks
> I've
> > chosen will be pretty bouncy! And my car's suspension is pretty
> > low/soggy....springs are possibly original!
> >
> >
> >
> > Am watching the springs interleaving thread with interest. Not sure yet
> if
> > my new springs have the zinc, or anything. They appear to have clips on
> > either end which would possibly defy disassembly and reassembly. They
> look
> a
> > little "one time only". Haven't been there yet.
> >
> >
> >
> > I can say that one of the 4 bushes had the wrong internal size and had to
> be
> > drilled out a little!
> >
> > Simon
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  6 18:01:27 2011
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 17:01:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] door gaps- tortional rigidty
Message-ID: <1315353687.23612.YahooMailClassic@web121817.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

One purpose  of this forum I understand is to assist one another in providing
information in making repairs. I felt that the answer given indicated that if
the person followed the steps offered for the repair this would solve the
problem permanently. I do not believe it will do so. This is only a temporary
solution and the person would have to make the same repair again in the not so
distant future. Of course this would mean added expense. I feel that if people
are given all the facts they can decide if they want a resolution to the
problem.
I did not try to sell my product nor did I mention my product. I tried to
provide some education from my decades of specializing  on structural repairs
and  restorations of  the big Healeys.
I know there are many different opinions of what is the right approach to
Healeys but that is what makes life interesting. Life would be pretty boring
if we only had vanilla ice cream.


Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Tue Sep  6 18:37:03 2011
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 02:37:03 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Uprated shock absorber valves
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PK=DLfDmL8e2tcwz+QEpESNLpYsFNy496MM9ktxUD+zRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8BF753D5-B1C8-4B37-ACC0-E6F67AAD9B82@bornet.net>
	<CANQM1PK=DLfDmL8e2tcwz+QEpESNLpYsFNy496MM9ktxUD+zRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6C7429F2-7832-48DC-AD86-29415163E2F9@bornet.net>

There is one small and one big spring in the valve of the shock absorber.
Those are the springs I was talking about.

Magnus Karlsson


www.concourshealeys.com





7 sep 2011 kl. 01:50 skrev Tom:

> Do you mean put shims under the front coil spring?   Wouldn't that raise the
height of the car?   I'm a bit confused.
>
> - Tom
>
> On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 5:06 PM, Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson at bornet.net>
wrote:
> You can easily up rate the valves you already have. Just put shims under
the
> big spring and tighten the nut above the small spring. This will  make the
> shock stiffer in both directions of the lever.
> Magnus Karlsson
>
> www.concourshealeys.com
>
>
>
>
>
> 5 sep 2011 kl. 21:37 skrev Simon Lachlan:
>
> > I have a MkII BT7........................
> >
> > So, I'll be fitting new rear springs later in the year and was wondering
> > about the rear shocks. Has anyone fitted the so-called "uprated valves"?
> > With what effect?
> >
> > I'm still keen on this Alpine excursion next year and I know that the
rear
> > end height and suspension is an area that'll need attention. Yes, I know
> > that height is a spring function, but I think that some of the tracks
I've
> > chosen will be pretty bouncy! And my car's suspension is pretty
> > low/soggy....springs are possibly original!
> >
> >
> >
> > Am watching the springs interleaving thread with interest. Not sure yet
if
> > my new springs have the zinc, or anything. They appear to have clips on
> > either end which would possibly defy disassembly and reassembly. They
look
> a
> > little "one time only". Haven't been there yet.
> >
> >
> >
> > I can say that one of the 4 bushes had the wrong internal size and had to
> be
> > drilled out a little!
> >
> > Simon
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Sep  6 19:22:02 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2011 21:22:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter knob- original?
In-Reply-To: <3D55F22856F1439F92355E6A1BE53B24@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <3D55F22856F1439F92355E6A1BE53B24@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <4E66C73A.3070207@comcast.net>

Peter,
Any way you could put the pics on the team.net Healey forum?
I have a 1970 AMCO catalog someplace.  I'll have to check that.
Charlie

On 9/6/2011 6:42 PM, Peter Svilans wrote:
> John
>
> It almost seemed that there were more Healeys around fitted with Amco shift
> knobs than originals, back in the day.
>
> Here is the full colour Amco shift knob page and its Application List from the
> beautiful 1969 Vilem B. Haan motoring accessories catalog.  It shows knobs in
> wood, leather and chrome.  It also shows that the Healey 4-cyl thread was 3/8
> by 20,  and the 6-cyl was 3/8 by 16.
>
> Peter
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Amco knobs0192.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Amco knobs list0193.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 20:06:57 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 10:06:57 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lever shock rebuilding
In-Reply-To: <CAC9kS9HHCCyb4iD1ruPdwjZBxFPtjpJS0b-QFHmyma4m=L3Q2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAC9kS9HHCCyb4iD1ruPdwjZBxFPtjpJS0b-QFHmyma4m=L3Q2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK7TCkahiS7gOtrGCXwKr+s4eAatM1-1yjAXt1jBu4zJQ@mail.gmail.com>

Yea, Pete Caldwell as Jim says.  Highly recommended.  Uses a different shaft
that doesn't have a keyway cut in it, so you can use a proper lip seal on
the shock.

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 10:18 PM, Frederich Ficke <jagwarman at gmail.com>wrote:

> A few months ago I ran across a guy on ebay that rebuilds lever shocks. He
> does them differently with a bearing and or uprated seal. Does anyone have
> experience with this rebuilder? It wasn't apple hydraulics. Also since then
> I have missplaced who he is. Does anyone know who he is and any info on
> this
> shock rebuilding?
> Thanks Frederich
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From hstandfa at iinet.net.au  Tue Sep  6 20:12:29 2011
From: hstandfa at iinet.net.au (Noel and Helen standfast)
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2011 12:12:29 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for spring interleaves advice
Message-ID: <4E66D30D.2070602@iinet.net.au>

thanks to the many listers who provided advice on zinc interleaves, I 
think I'll go with the teflon tape (and no doubt get a ribbing from my 
mates about me straying from the original zinc!)

NS

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Sep  6 20:16:31 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2011 22:16:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter knob- original?
In-Reply-To: <4E66C73A.3070207@comcast.net>
References: <3D55F22856F1439F92355E6A1BE53B24@9535DEE118EC44B>
	<4E66C73A.3070207@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <030601cc6d04$28c57df0$7a5079d0$@verizon.net>

If you do a eBay search on "amco shift knob" you will see a listing for
several including two ad pages as well as a Austin Healey amco shift knob.
It has a "buy it now" price of $59.95  I have one but have only had it on
once. I prefer the stock one with the shift pattern.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 9:22 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shifter knob- original?

Peter,
Any way you could put the pics on the team.net Healey forum?
I have a 1970 AMCO catalog someplace.  I'll have to check that.
Charlie

On 9/6/2011 6:42 PM, Peter Svilans wrote:
> John
>
> It almost seemed that there were more Healeys around fitted with Amco
> shift knobs than originals, back in the day.
>
> Here is the full colour Amco shift knob page and its Application List
> from the beautiful 1969 Vilem B. Haan motoring accessories catalog.
> It shows knobs in wood, leather and chrome.  It also shows that the
> Healey 4-cyl thread was 3/8 by 20,  and the 6-cyl was 3/8 by 16.
>
> Peter
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a
> name of Amco knobs0192.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a
> name of Amco knobs list0193.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Tue Sep  6 20:54:21 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2011 18:54:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys]
	=?iso-8859-1?q?Frame_torsional_rigidity_-_was=3A_Workin?=
	=?iso-8859-1?q?g_on_door_gaps?=
Message-ID: <20110907025421.5873.qmail@hoster902.com>

Wanted to write this in support of Martin Jansen and David Nock and others who are in the business of Healeys or British Cars in general - as far as I'm concerned your comments add a lot of value to this newsgroup.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From rfinucane at aol.com  Tue Sep  6 20:56:09 2011
From: rfinucane at aol.com (Robert Finucane)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 22:56:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome shift knobs
Message-ID: <8CE3B20D45717C6-1BE4-621A6@webmail-m055.sysops.aol.com>

Have had the chrome one on my car since 82, I think it came with the car, but
had the original for a spare. I know its not original, but a little larger and
fairly well worn by now. It feels good and never has been to hot to shift.
Bob 64 BJ-8 25809

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Wed Sep  7 11:38:43 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 19:38:43 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Buddy Holly
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBHn1YVWfe72QUdmHzAboE_gSYSo_KK-SxDN53SGRktjg@mail.gmail.com>

Buddy Holly should be 75 today.
Great Musician. One of my all time favorites. Shame he had to leave soo
young.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEHNFxXkILM&feature=player_embedded#!

Gergo

From nelson_wd at msn.com  Wed Sep  7 12:29:36 2011
From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 13:29:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Buddy Holly
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmBHn1YVWfe72QUdmHzAboE_gSYSo_KK-SxDN53SGRktjg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmBHn1YVWfe72QUdmHzAboE_gSYSo_KK-SxDN53SGRktjg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU161-W8B2B08F512B74332102829C1F0@phx.gbl>

I am of the age that I love Buddy, the Big O and Elvis.  My trip of 7,000
miles through Mexico in 1963 in my MK II Healey was described in the
July/August issue of The Healey Magazine.  I did not include in the article
the story of the end of that trip when I drove from Kansas to my first job in
Seattle.  I stopped in Las Vegas and drove up to the Sands where Elvis was
filming Viva Las Vegas.  Drove up to where they had the movie set barricaded
and security was turning away all the tourists.  They saw the Healey, moved
the barricades and waved me through; I drove into the parking for all the set
employees and watched the filming.  I guess they recognized the VIP status of
Austin Healey drivers.  Kind of a hoot.  bill n


> Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 19:38:43 +0200
> From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Buddy Holly
>
> Buddy Holly should be 75 today.
> Great Musician. One of my all time favorites. Shame he had to leave soo
> young.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEHNFxXkILM&feature=player_embedded#!
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nelson_wd at msn.com

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  7 15:03:53 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 14:03:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
Message-ID: <1315429433.95011.YahooMailClassic@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi All;B  For those interested, the 1955 Lance Macklin Austin Healey NOJ393 is
to be auctioned by Bonhambs later this year.B  Check it out at
http://www.bonhams.com/eur/press/6016/B 
Enjoy!!B 
--Scott Morris;B Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB B B B B B B B B  B - Keep Smiling,
Murphy Lives

From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Wed Sep  7 15:40:45 2011
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 16:40:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
In-Reply-To: <1315429433.95011.YahooMailClassic@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1315429433.95011.YahooMailClassic@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002a01cc6da6$cec04e90$6c40ebb0$@com>

If you take off the "B" at the end of the link, it works.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 4:04 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction

Hi All;B  For those interested, the 1955 Lance Macklin Austin Healey NOJ393
is
to be auctioned by Bonhambs later this year.B  Check it out at
http://www.bonhams.com/eur/press/6016/B
Enjoy!!B
--Scott Morris;B Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB B B B B B B B B  B - Keep Smiling,
Murphy Lives
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  7 17:08:58 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 16:08:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: RE:  LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
Message-ID: <1315436938.55233.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Wed, 9/7/11, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
To: "Neil Anderson" <neilandcustom at gmail.com>
Received: Wednesday, September 7, 2011, 6:10 PM







Whoops; Murphy is roaming at large. :-)     I drafted the email off list and
copied it into an email.  As a result, all kinds of unwanted 'B's' showed up. 
Sorry about that.  Hopefully, lesson learned.
 
Here is the link again http://www.bonhams.com/eur/press/6016/   as well as
http://tinyurl.com/3vegext
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada              - Keep Smiling, Murphy
Lives

--- On Wed, 9/7/11, Neil Anderson <neilandcustom at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Neil Anderson <neilandcustom at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
To: "'J. Scott Morris'" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>, "'Austin Healey'"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Wednesday, September 7, 2011, 5:40 PM


If you take off the "B" at the end of the link, it works.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 4:04 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction

Hi All;B  For those interested, the 1955 Lance Macklin Austin Healey NOJ393
is
to be auctioned by Bonhambs later this year.B  Check it out at
http://www.bonhams.com/eur/press/6016/B
Enjoy!!B
--Scott Morris;B Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB B B B B B B B B  B - Keep Smiling,
Murphy Lives

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Sep  7 20:47:40 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 12:47:40 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
Message-ID: <F9FFCE646C5843509432BA6E5AC6338E@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

I am writing an article on a MG TF fitted with a fibreglass body built by an
Australian company called Buchanan. The body was styled off an Aston Martin
DB3S.

 

In the article I want to make reference to US and British organisations that
built fibreglass bodies for similar cars during the 1950s and early '60s.

 

The names of Devin and Fibrefab in the US come to mind and Arkley in the UK.
Although the Arkley is a little later in the piece.

 

It would be appreciated that if you know of any could you please let me
know.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  7 23:25:22 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 22:25:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
Message-ID: <1315459522.53911.yint-ygo-j2me@web130222.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I beleave Glaspar was a very early maker of fiberglass car bodies. They also made boats.
Best
JK

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  8 04:18:46 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 03:18:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
In-Reply-To: <F9FFCE646C5843509432BA6E5AC6338E@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <1315477126.47569.YahooMailClassic@web161216.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Patrick,

You should find a lot of useful information here: 
http://www.forgottenfiberglass.com/

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 9/7/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, September 7, 2011, 10:47 PM

G'day



I am writing an article on a MG TF fitted with a fibreglass body built by an
Australian company called Buchanan. The body was styled off an Aston Martin
DB3S.



In the article I want to make reference to US and British organisations that
built fibreglass bodies for similar cars during the 1950s and early '60s.



The names of Devin and Fibrefab in the US come to mind and Arkley in the UK.
Although the Arkley is a little later in the piece.



It would be appreciated that if you know of any could you please let me
know.



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Sep  8 04:22:51 2011
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2011 06:22:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for current owners
Message-ID: <4E68977B.6040206@earthlink.net>

All,

I'm looking for a couple of 3000 Mk I  -  HBT7L-5192 and HBN7L-9455. 
Anyone know the whereabouts or current owners?  Please get in touch with 
me, off the list is fine.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

From bluehealey at gmail.com  Thu Sep  8 05:12:31 2011
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 12:12:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: RE: LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
In-Reply-To: <1315436938.55233.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1315436938.55233.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAO4jdWKqMC-NvOYuWKi_nnZzyYdZ5Ey-eii+hWLbTjNnC6_1Jw@mail.gmail.com>

Team.
It is incredible that this car has come out of hiding (in Norfolk I believe)
and onto the market. I hope the new custodian keeps the car in the current
condition rather than restore it. It's an amazing historical artefact.

Does anyone have any idea what colour the car was when Lance was piloting it
at Le Mans '55?  The pic on Bonhams page shows dark blue/gold over a rather
bright metallic blue with (maybe) white coves.
http://www.bonhams.com/eur/press/6016/
http://tinyurl.com/3vegext

-- 
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
                (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Thu Sep  8 06:45:56 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 22:45:56 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: RE: LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
In-Reply-To: <CAO4jdWKqMC-NvOYuWKi_nnZzyYdZ5Ey-eii+hWLbTjNnC6_1Jw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1315436938.55233.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<CAO4jdWKqMC-NvOYuWKi_nnZzyYdZ5Ey-eii+hWLbTjNnC6_1Jw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F8B7065361EC4F849967DB82089CE0A5@Notebook>

Green according to Ken Freese's data - BRG according to Bill Emerson's book. 
No doubt it'll be restored to death like all the others!



-----Original Message----- 
From: Alan Bromfield
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2011 9:12 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: RE: LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction

Team.
It is incredible that this car has come out of hiding (in Norfolk I believe)
and onto the market. I hope the new custodian keeps the car in the current
condition rather than restore it. It's an amazing historical artefact.

Does anyone have any idea what colour the car was when Lance was piloting it
at Le Mans '55?  The pic on Bonhams page shows dark blue/gold over a rather
bright metallic blue with (maybe) white coves.
http://www.bonhams.com/eur/press/6016/
http://tinyurl.com/3vegext

-- 
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
                (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au 

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Sep  8 10:10:36 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 09:10:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: RE: LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
In-Reply-To: <F8B7065361EC4F849967DB82089CE0A5@Notebook>
References: <1315436938.55233.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<CAO4jdWKqMC-NvOYuWKi_nnZzyYdZ5Ey-eii+hWLbTjNnC6_1Jw@mail.gmail.com>
	<F8B7065361EC4F849967DB82089CE0A5@Notebook>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQTOHdyF5Xo7gKkypUrzrfrfqpPJh4dD6HicB6oAn9m9Q@mail.gmail.com>

My prediction is that this historic car will sell well north of $500K, in
its somewhat unrestored state.  I say somewhat since the car was essentially
destroyed in the 1955 Le Mans disaster, and then rebuilt, so I don;t know
how much it would hurt to restore it again.  I don't think it's out of line
to say that historic 100S's could reach $1 million dollars in the near
future.  As such, someone paying that amount of money will want a car that's
usable.

Cheers,

Curt

On Thu, Sep 8, 2011 at 5:45 AM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>wrote:

> Green according to Ken Freese's data - BRG according to Bill Emerson's
> book. No doubt it'll be restored to death like all the others!
>
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Alan Bromfield
> Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2011 9:12 PM
> To: Austin Healey
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: RE: LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
>
>
> Team.
> It is incredible that this car has come out of hiding (in Norfolk I
> believe)
> and onto the market. I hope the new custodian keeps the car in the current
> condition rather than restore it. It's an amazing historical artefact.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what colour the car was when Lance was piloting
> it
> at Le Mans '55?  The pic on Bonhams page shows dark blue/gold over a rather
> bright metallic blue with (maybe) white coves.
> http://www.bonhams.com/eur/**press/6016/<http://www.bonhams.com/eur/press/6016/>
> http://tinyurl.com/3vegext
>
> --
>  ______________________________**___________
> (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
>       (_______\____1957-BN4____/____**____)
>               (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/greylinn@**ozemail.com.au<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au>______________________________
> **_________________
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/cnaarndt@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com>

From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Sep  8 10:29:12 2011
From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 16:29:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
In-Reply-To: <F9FFCE646C5843509432BA6E5AC6338E@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <F9FFCE646C5843509432BA6E5AC6338E@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075F0C79@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>

If you have the book, American Racing Specials, there is a very complete
section on the American fiberglass body manufacturers. Perhaps I can scan it
for you.
Ken

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 7:48 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies

G'day



I am writing an article on a MG TF fitted with a fibreglass body built by an
Australian company called Buchanan. The body was styled off an Aston Martin
DB3S.



In the article I want to make reference to US and British organisations that
built fibreglass bodies for similar cars during the 1950s and early '60s.



The names of Devin and Fibrefab in the US come to mind and Arkley in the UK.
Although the Arkley is a little later in the piece.



It would be appreciated that if you know of any could you please let me
know.



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Thu Sep  8 11:16:28 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 13:16:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
Message-ID: <84A4758DDDE5463492B10299E21CD1BA@9535DEE118EC44B>

When the Special Test Cars were first built in 1953,  Geoff Healey writes "DMH
decided that the cars should be painted with the same metallic green paint
from Dockers that we had used on the 2.4-litre [Riley] Healeys".

For LeMans 1955 it was BRG, as can be seen in some of the colour movie footage
on YouTube.

A year after the crash, the car was rebuilt at Warwick.  It was repainted in
BRG with cream sides and a red ring around the grille.  There were two owners
in 1957, and another in 1958.

In 1959, it was resold and was "repainted in blue and gold" according to
Baggott.  Personally, I think it may have been the Healey Blue colour over
ivory at some point, before it became the dark blue and gold, which makes more
sense to me.

It changed hands again in '63 and '69, but has remained unchanged, and a
non-runner- since then.

Even though "barn find" cars bring the highest values,  I bet they don't stay
that way for long in the immaculate surgical operating theatre garages of
their wealthy owners.

As with any restoration, you have to pick a point in history, and find out
what it looked like just at that particular time.  But when ? As it left the
works in '53 ?  As it looked before the LeMans crash ?  Just after ? (Not
really funny, but it was most well known for this).  After the '57 works
rebuild ?  Or during its (dull) club racing period in the sixties ?  This
decision and its re-restoration then becomes just another listed step in the
car's passage through time.

Peter

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Thu Sep  8 12:49:21 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 20:49:21 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans 1955-NOJ393 at Auction
In-Reply-To: <84A4758DDDE5463492B10299E21CD1BA@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <84A4758DDDE5463492B10299E21CD1BA@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <CAAh8etn4+uQ=04TuFS2q3NL_70VVe1xsMoKb-PJbJjRznZE5Cw@mail.gmail.com>

Peter

Let me add something else to the mix.

I have a theory that the three Streamlined '100-Sixs' that ran at Sebring in
1957 were a mixture of Special Test cars and 100Ss'. Why do I think this?

1. The 1956 Bonneville streamilned endurance record car was a Special Test
car with a six cylinder engine installed. (SPL 227B)
2. 3 additional similar streamlined bodies were made by Jenson and
presumably were also designed to fit 100 frames not 100 -Six frames.
3, The photos of the 3 Streamlined Sebring 1957 cars all show features of a
100 not a 100-Six. No door handles, shape of dash etc.
4. One of the cars was entered as AHS 3604
5. All the cars were right hand drive

I believe that one of those cars Race number 25 could have been NOJ 393 -
SPL 226B

The reasons are.

1 The car returned from France in October 1956 and was later sold by the
DHMC aroundApril 1957 (After the 1957 Sebring Race and it is stated that the
three cars were shipped back to England after the race)

2. Bill Piggott says that the NOJ 393 chassis is stamped with the words
'Racer 25' (There is a photo in his book of this stamping). No-one seems to
why, however one of the 1957 Sebring cars carried race number 25.

So is it possible that, following the return of NOJ 393 from France (in a
damaged state),  that it was decided to rebody the car in one of the three
streamlined bodies to participate at Sebring in March 1957?

Who knows, but I think it is a possibility.

More research required

Derek





On Thu, Sep 8, 2011 at 7:16 PM, Peter Svilans <peter.svilans at rogers.com>wrote:

> When the Special Test Cars were first built in 1953,  Geoff Healey writes
> "DMH
> decided that the cars should be painted with the same metallic green paint
> from Dockers that we had used on the 2.4-litre [Riley] Healeys".
>
> For LeMans 1955 it was BRG, as can be seen in some of the colour movie
> footage
> on YouTube.
>
> A year after the crash, the car was rebuilt at Warwick.  It was repainted
> in
> BRG with cream sides and a red ring around the grille.  There were two
> owners
> in 1957, and another in 1958.
>
> In 1959, it was resold and was "repainted in blue and gold" according to
> Baggott.  Personally, I think it may have been the Healey Blue colour over
> ivory at some point, before it became the dark blue and gold, which makes
> more
> sense to me.
>
> It changed hands again in '63 and '69, but has remained unchanged, and a
> non-runner- since then.
>
> Even though "barn find" cars bring the highest values,  I bet they don't
> stay
> that way for long in the immaculate surgical operating theatre garages of
> their wealthy owners.
>
> As with any restoration, you have to pick a point in history, and find out
> what it looked like just at that particular time.  But when ? As it left
> the
> works in '53 ?  As it looked before the LeMans crash ?  Just after ? (Not
> really funny, but it was most well known for this).  After the '57 works
> rebuild ?  Or during its (dull) club racing period in the sixties ?  This
> decision and its re-restoration then becomes just another listed step in
> the
> car's passage through time.
>
> Peter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  8 12:58:49 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2011 11:58:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shifter nob - original? - Thanks
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110908115742.02070850@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Thanks to all the people that responded about the shifter knob. I 
have an AMCO knob.

John

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep  8 13:00:34 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2011 14:00:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
In-Reply-To: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075F0C79@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>
References: <F9FFCE646C5843509432BA6E5AC6338E@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075F0C79@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>
Message-ID: <4E6910D2.1040708@justbrits.com>

<< ...American fiberglass body manufacturers.
Perhaps I can scan it... >>

Ken, etal:   Patrick & I were 'chatting' last evening
nite = mine <G> and that is exactly what he do NOT
want ! ! !

He IS 'looking' for STEEL bodied 'cars' in "kit"
form.  He HAS found LOTS of F/G Co.s and I
gathered almost blind from his 'hunt' <VBG> ! ! !

I'm sure he will pop-up in a couple hours & add
to this note ! ! !

Hoo Roo

Ed

Chicago (area), Il, USA

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  8 14:07:17 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 13:07:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
In-Reply-To: <4E6910D2.1040708@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <1315512437.38293.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Ed; I think you must have missed something in your talk with Patrick. 
 
Quoting Patrick's original email, he stated "... I want to make reference to
US and British organisations that built fibreglass bodies for similar cars
during the 1950s and early '60s. ... It would be appreciated that if you know
of any could you please let me know." 

To me, that is quite clear; fibreglass, not steel. 
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada              - Keep Smiling, Murphy
Lives

--- On Thu, 9/8/11, Shop at " Just Brits " <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:


From: Shop at " Just Brits " <shop at justbrits.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Thursday, September 8, 2011, 3:00 PM


<< ...American fiberglass body manufacturers.
Perhaps I can scan it... >>

Ken, etal:   Patrick & I were 'chatting' last evening
nite = mine <G> and that is exactly what he do NOT
want ! ! !

He IS 'looking' for STEEL bodied 'cars' in "kit"
form.  He HAS found LOTS of F/G Co.s and I
gathered almost blind from his 'hunt' <VBG> ! ! !

I'm sure he will pop-up in a couple hours & add
to this note ! ! !

Hoo Roo

Ed

Chicago (area), Il, USA

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Sep  8 16:18:30 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 08:18:30 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
In-Reply-To: <4E6910D2.1040708@justbrits.com>
References: <F9FFCE646C5843509432BA6E5AC6338E@PatrickQuinnPC><533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075F0C79@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>
	<4E6910D2.1040708@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <EA35B4AB712341CBBD011EA5E4A824D4@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

What I am looking for are fibreglass body manufacturers who made bodies for
the chassis of production cars.

In the '50s it was the thing to do - remove the body from your MG T series
and fit a modern looking fibreglass sports body. These bodies were also used
for damaged vehicles where the chassis and running gear were still okay. Jim
Lesher very kindly sent me some photos of a Devin fibreglass body on a BN4.

It is easy to find fibreglass cars built on special chassis and fitted with
US V8s, but not such cars like the Buchanan here in Australia. The Devin is
an example, as is Fibrefab.

See

http://www.v8vantage.com/buchananmotorcompany/index.htm

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits "
Sent: Friday, 9 September 2011 5:01 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies

<< ...American fiberglass body manufacturers.
Perhaps I can scan it... >>

Ken, etal:   Patrick & I were 'chatting' last evening
nite = mine <G> and that is exactly what he do NOT
want ! ! !

He IS 'looking' for STEEL bodied 'cars' in "kit"
form.  He HAS found LOTS of F/G Co.s and I
gathered almost blind from his 'hunt' <VBG> ! ! !

I'm sure he will pop-up in a couple hours & add
to this note ! ! !

Hoo Roo

Ed

Chicago (area), Il, USA
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Sep  8 19:28:17 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 11:28:17 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
In-Reply-To: <EA35B4AB712341CBBD011EA5E4A824D4@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <F9FFCE646C5843509432BA6E5AC6338E@PatrickQuinnPC><533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075F0C79@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>
	<4E6910D2.1040708@justbrits.com>
	<EA35B4AB712341CBBD011EA5E4A824D4@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <8F033C8B-8F64-4E1F-8BC3-481F7C9ED2EA@gmail.com>

Lenham in England made fiberglass bodies for spridgets and MGB's. They  
also did a big Healey one
Just use google images and search for lenham sprite or lenham Healey.
I owned a Lenham Sprite Coupe for about 10 years. It was called Fly  
because it's original UK registration was 152FLY. And because with the  
Ford engine and twin webers put into it in the late 1960's, it really  
did fly!
http://www.lenhamspridgetregister.com/Sprite%20powered%20by%20Ford.html
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 09/09/2011, at 8:18 AM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au 
 > wrote:

> G'day
>
> What I am looking for are fibreglass body manufacturers who made  
> bodies for
> the chassis of production cars.
>
> In the '50s it was the thing to do - remove the body from your MG T  
> series
> and fit a modern looking fibreglass sports body. These bodies were  
> also used
> for damaged vehicles where the chassis and running gear were still  
> okay. Jim
> Lesher very kindly sent me some photos of a Devin fibreglass body on  
> a BN4.
>
> It is easy to find fibreglass cars built on special chassis and  
> fitted with
> US V8s, but not such cars like the Buchanan here in Australia. The  
> Devin is
> an example, as is Fibrefab.
>
> See
>
> http://www.v8vantage.com/buchananmotorcompany/index.htm
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits "
> Sent: Friday, 9 September 2011 5:01 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fibreglass Bodies
>
> << ...American fiberglass body manufacturers.
> Perhaps I can scan it... >>
>
> Ken, etal:   Patrick & I were 'chatting' last evening
> nite = mine <G> and that is exactly what he do NOT
> want ! ! !
>
> He IS 'looking' for STEEL bodied 'cars' in "kit"
> form.  He HAS found LOTS of F/G Co.s and I
> gathered almost blind from his 'hunt' <VBG> ! ! !
>
> I'm sure he will pop-up in a couple hours & add
> to this note ! ! !
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Ed
>
> Chicago (area), Il, USA
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Sep  8 21:14:40 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 23:14:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fiberglass bodies
Message-ID: <20d12.78b1f6f3.3b9adea0@aol.com>

I am writing an article on a MG TF fitted with a fibreglass body built by 
an
Australian company called Buchanan. The body was styled off an Aston Martin
DB3S.

In the article I want to make reference to US and British organisations 
that
built fibreglass bodies for similar cars during the 1950s and early '60s.

The names of Devin and Fibrefab in the US come to mind and Arkley in the 
UK.
Although the Arkley is a little later in the piece.

It would be appreciated that if you know of any could you please let me
know
Pat Quinn

Don't leave out Byers Bodies, Pat.
I've copied Jim Weissenborn (the pencilman) who can fill you in on his 
Byers-bodied MGA.

Gary

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Thu Sep  8 21:30:29 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 23:30:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fiberglass Bodies
Message-ID: <2782C8443D544B6881AC291503312608@9535DEE118EC44B>

Patrick

Here are some more from a seventies book  called 'Roadsters/ Replicas and Fun
Cars Vol.2' by Peter Filby.  I've left out all the various Lotus 7 spaceframe
replicas and some upscale replicas which used handmade aluminum bodies like
Panther.

ARKLEY SS-  Spridget based, you've mentioned already.

BIOTA-  Cheap, futuristic fiberglass monocoque using Mini subframes and
engines

JOHNARD DONINGTON-  Early fifties Bentleys with their badly rusted bodies
removed, were the basis of this fiberglass roadster (with aluminum bonnet).

KOUGAR-  Healey-Silverstone-like fiberglass roadster using Jaguar S-Type
saloon components, but with some made-up frame bits.

MAGENTA-  Fiberglass beach-buggy-like roadster body built over complete MG
1100/ 1300 subframes and running gear

PANTHER LIMA- Baby brother of the posh J-72.  Vauxhall floor and running gear
, along with MG Midget doors, were the basis of this fiberglass roadster.

RMB GENTRY-  Fiberglass body with aluminum bits  resembling the MG TF, yet
built on a Triumph Herald chassis

SIVA EDWARDIANS-  Fiberglass Edwardian tourers on stock VW floorpans.

SPARTAN-  MG TF-like fiberglass and aluminum body components fitted to the
whole range of Triumph chassis- Herald, Vitesse, Spitfire, GT6, TR-6.

STEVENS SIENNA-   MG TF-like fiberglass body on a Reliant Kitten chassis and
running gear.

SYD LAWRENCE SPECIAL-  Bentley Mk 6 chassis and running gear provided the
basis of this upscale fiberglass replica.

The seventies were a great time in Britain for rebodying old rusted hulks.

.....and from Oct '56 Road & Track here's a very detailed ad for the lovely
Devin bodyshell:

Peter

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Devin0196.jpg]

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Sep  8 23:33:06 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 07:33:06 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fiberglass Bodies
In-Reply-To: <2782C8443D544B6881AC291503312608@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <2782C8443D544B6881AC291503312608@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmDMCCo-+LG13vH3ftBJc47rT1SvrtyJDZkB0U8nLVPi3Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Last year I completed a nice mini based kitcar. It was a Cox GTM. For the
mini running gear plenty of firms did kits. Just look at here:

http://www.minimarcos.org.uk/altpics/index.html

The Cox was somewhat unique, as it was based around 2 front mini subframes
and the negine was positioned on the back, amking the car mid-engined. The
car weigted just over 500kgs. With a tuned Cooper "S" powerplant, it was
able to get a 5kg/bhp balance. Something quite funny. 0-100 was under 7
secs.

Gergo

2011/9/9 Peter Svilans <peter.svilans at rogers.com>

> Patrick
>
> Here are some more from a seventies book  called 'Roadsters/ Replicas and
> Fun
> Cars Vol.2' by Peter Filby.  I've left out all the various Lotus 7
> spaceframe
> replicas and some upscale replicas which used handmade aluminum bodies like
> Panther.
>
> ARKLEY SS-  Spridget based, you've mentioned already.
>
> BIOTA-  Cheap, futuristic fiberglass monocoque using Mini subframes and
> engines
>
> JOHNARD DONINGTON-  Early fifties Bentleys with their badly rusted bodies
> removed, were the basis of this fiberglass roadster (with aluminum bonnet).
>
> KOUGAR-  Healey-Silverstone-like fiberglass roadster using Jaguar S-Type
> saloon components, but with some made-up frame bits.
>
> MAGENTA-  Fiberglass beach-buggy-like roadster body built over complete MG
> 1100/ 1300 subframes and running gear
>
> PANTHER LIMA- Baby brother of the posh J-72.  Vauxhall floor and running
> gear
> , along with MG Midget doors, were the basis of this fiberglass roadster.
>
> RMB GENTRY-  Fiberglass body with aluminum bits  resembling the MG TF, yet
> built on a Triumph Herald chassis
>
> SIVA EDWARDIANS-  Fiberglass Edwardian tourers on stock VW floorpans.
>
> SPARTAN-  MG TF-like fiberglass and aluminum body components fitted to the
> whole range of Triumph chassis- Herald, Vitesse, Spitfire, GT6, TR-6.
>
> STEVENS SIENNA-   MG TF-like fiberglass body on a Reliant Kitten chassis
> and
> running gear.
>
> SYD LAWRENCE SPECIAL-  Bentley Mk 6 chassis and running gear provided the
> basis of this upscale fiberglass replica.
>
> The seventies were a great time in Britain for rebodying old rusted hulks.
>
> .....and from Oct '56 Road & Track here's a very detailed ad for the lovely
> Devin bodyshell:
>
> Peter
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> Devin0196.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From HealeyHundred at comcast.net  Thu Sep  8 23:51:46 2011
From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 23:51:46 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 For Sale
Message-ID: <456607BC-3DBB-4CBB-A5EC-422D95AAB26A@comcast.net>

Hi Gang,


Lance Miller in Colorado Springs has asked me to send along this for sale
announcement.
Please note that the caption saying the photos were at this years Conclave is
an old comment from a year or two ago.

Here is Lances and the cars information and a pdf with photos:

The car was purchased from a dealer (Wilson Motors) in 2000 and had
significant work to improve safety and drivability to include: new brakes, new
brake servo, new clutch, transmission overhaul, new fuel pump/lines, new
tires, new exhaust, new boot kit, new carpets, engine tune-up, new radiator
fan). All of the service documents are available for perusal. All of the work
was performed within 3 months of purchase. There are no rust spots in the car
but the paint does need to be redone (small pits/chips) although I dont know
when it was last painted. The color scheme is red/black covers with black
interior. The interior vinyl is original and has one small repair area on the
driver door. The wood dash panel has cracks in the lacquer coating but
otherwise is in good shape. The soft-top is in very good condition and there
is a tonneau cover. I have the original Healey owners manuals, associated
documents and other Healey books. Im happy to answer any questions or provide
additional information. The car is garaged in Colorado Springs and is
available for a test-drive for interested parties. Please contact me at my
email address ljmiller at crmsolutions.com with expressions of interest or
questions.

Regards,
Lance

Please contact Lance directly at his email: ljmiller at crmsolutions.com

Thanks,
Richard

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Fri Sep  9 08:37:58 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 07:37:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 For Sale
In-Reply-To: <456607BC-3DBB-4CBB-A5EC-422D95AAB26A@comcast.net>
References: <456607BC-3DBB-4CBB-A5EC-422D95AAB26A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A189DB@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

"The car was purchased from a dealer (Wilson Motors) in 2000 and had
significant work to improve safety and drivability"

I too purchased a "car" from this dealer.  Never again, and to any who
would consider it, don't, and run far away.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From amalin at mac.com  Fri Sep  9 09:09:06 2011
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Fri, 09 Sep 2011 11:09:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 For Sale
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A189DB@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <456607BC-3DBB-4CBB-A5EC-422D95AAB26A@comcast.net>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A189DB@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <35A220D8-A6F4-4523-B6A4-4F972541C97F@mac.com>

Jonas,

Are you sure you are jumping to the right conclusion?

OK, you had a bad experience with Wilson Motors. Looking at the extensive work done after purchasing the car from Wilson maybe the current owner had a bad experience too. 

Aren't you are unfairly judging the current owner based on the dealer he bought it from 11 years ago?

Al Malin
Tricarb


On Sep 9, 2011, at 10:37 AM, Jonas Payne wrote:

> "The car was purchased from a dealer (Wilson Motors) in 2000 and had
> significant work to improve safety and drivability"
> 
> I too purchased a "car" from this dealer.  Never again, and to any who
> would consider it, don't, and run far away.
> 
> 
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Fri Sep  9 09:18:16 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 08:18:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 For Sale
In-Reply-To: <35A220D8-A6F4-4523-B6A4-4F972541C97F@mac.com>
References: <456607BC-3DBB-4CBB-A5EC-422D95AAB26A@comcast.net><744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A189DB@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<35A220D8-A6F4-4523-B6A4-4F972541C97F@mac.com>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A189E0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

Not at all - was simply passing my thoughts about Wilson on.  In no way
did I intend to disparage the car.

The "car" I purchased from them is now fully restored, reliable, fun and
safe, at great personal expense in time, money and heartache.

I'm certain that the current owner and I shared a similar experience.

My apologies to any and all who interpreted this as a comment about the
car, not the dealer

Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Malin
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 8:09 AM
To: healeys @autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 For Sale

Jonas,

Are you sure you are jumping to the right conclusion?

OK, you had a bad experience with Wilson Motors. Looking at the
extensive work done after purchasing the car from Wilson maybe the
current owner had a bad experience too.

Aren't you are unfairly judging the current owner based on the dealer he
bought it from 11 years ago?

Al Malin
Tricarb


On Sep
> _______________________________________________

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Fri Sep  9 11:58:00 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 13:58:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tach way off
In-Reply-To: <CAJTyXLT7sesapvyH5hczJ+J1UqZRza30czy9GCgD1EN+EhadDQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJTyXLT7sesapvyH5hczJ+J1UqZRza30czy9GCgD1EN+EhadDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJTyXLQ8ATcAUwoyDmxWOEAyQ4ViXpKv8dvDTh0rRkK3qFc8AQ@mail.gmail.com>

Using my digital tach to set the tach in the car, they line up really
well.both agree at 3500rpm and are close otherwise. However when c driving,
according to the chart I have, at 60mph, 4th od, rpms s/b 2550. Tach reads
5200. Anyone have any ideas. Moma rebuilt it about 5000 miles ago. Its never
been right on, but this is ridiculous. I use gps as speedo. A really neat
app from android market called ulysse speedometer. Even has hud display.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep  9 12:47:16 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 18:47:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tach way off
In-Reply-To: <CAJTyXLQ8ATcAUwoyDmxWOEAyQ4ViXpKv8dvDTh0rRkK3qFc8AQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <822342982.427035.1315594036688.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Sounds heat-related. I see from the schematic there's a there's a thermistor in the tach circuit; it could be post toastie. 

Just a SWAG. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8 at gmail.com> 
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, September 9, 2011 10:58:00 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Tach way off 

Using my digital tach to set the tach in the car, they line up really 
well.both agree at 3500rpm and are close otherwise. However when c driving, 
according to the chart I have, at 60mph, 4th od, rpms s/b 2550. Tach reads 
5200. Anyone have any ideas. Moma rebuilt it about 5000 miles ago. Its never 
been right on, but this is ridiculous. I use gps as speedo. A really neat 
app from android market called ulysse speedometer. Even has hud display. 

Bob Johnson 
BJ8 
_______________________________________________ 
Healeys at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Fri Sep  9 14:13:18 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 16:13:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tach way off
In-Reply-To: <822342982.427035.1315594036688.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CAJTyXLQ8ATcAUwoyDmxWOEAyQ4ViXpKv8dvDTh0rRkK3qFc8AQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<822342982.427035.1315594036688.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJTyXLSuYuRc78aSim=tt-3N74sjL+dww4jD=zOBBP20uwWNGA@mail.gmail.com>

Tach is electric. RPMs drop appropriately when shifting into o/d.
Thermistor, huh? Sounds like something my wife would do to a plant;^)

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From racarbon at verizon.net  Sat Sep 10 16:07:33 2011
From: racarbon at verizon.net (RACarbone)
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 18:07:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tach way off
Message-ID: <9A597F4055D24C2E8A4F1F856C327EE7@RACLaptop>

Bob,

If I understand correctly, you problem is relatively common and the readings
will get even divergently higher over time.  It is a failing capacitor and can
be easily replaced and the tachometer celebrated.  A while back, Frank
Filangeri wrote a paper, bBJ8 Tachometer Reads Highb, on the fix that can
be found on www.healey6.com (John Sims web site).  I did the fix about 15
years ago and have had no additional problems.

Ray (64BJ8P1)

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 11 14:23:25 2011
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 16:23:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] test-not receiving list posts yesterday or today
Message-ID: <SNT110-W2410ACF2FED61B77521130C8030@phx.gbl>

Is it my problem or a list problem, I've gotten no posts in 2 days?

George

From mrfinespanner at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 11 17:40:06 2011
From: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net (Mr. Finespanner)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 16:40:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] new book
Message-ID: <C4122387132641D3979B53C433829FF8@ElComputero>

Hey List,
I found the most pleasant surprise in my mail last week.  It was the new 
book "It Came With Oil" by Alan Cowan, an old buddy of mine who runs the 
Falconworks garage in Tucson, AZ.  Alan has been twisting wrenches on 
English iron even longer than me, and is
probably the best and most knowledgeable british car mechanic I've
ever met.  He finally sat down and wrote a collection of tales from 40+ 
years of road and shop experiences, and the result is a truly
engaging and often hilarious work told from a shop owner's perspective 
(names have been altered or omitted to protect the guilty).

If you like great yarns about the trials, tribulations, and triumphs of
motoring, plus some real insights into the right techniques to use to
keep british sports cars alive, I highly recommend "It Came With Oil".  A 
web search using the title will bring up the vendors.

regards,
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Sun Sep 11 14:55:04 2011
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 16:55:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V56uwf62UsAk4G3TCwCgyeO+08iiEkVTogeqgcB1hOcjA@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Sun Sep 11 15:07:42 2011
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 17:07:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V6gRYAhc7ptOv-X36pFxa6FDpt2z7SDH_1zHKVUxvwpbQ@mail.gmail.com>

List,

I just received the BMIHT certificate with the build information on my car.

Can anyone tell me how to get a car/chassis number plate with the properly
stamped numbers on it?  The plate on the car now is incorrect.  Years ago,
the PO simply had a plate engraved with a partial number and that is what
the car has always been registered with.

I now want to correct the registration of the car and it will help with the
correct plate with the correct plate number as verified by the Heritage
Trust.

Thanks in advance,

Fred

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 11 15:11:29 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 14:11:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test-not receiving list posts yesterday or today
In-Reply-To: <SNT110-W2410ACF2FED61B77521130C8030@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT110-W2410ACF2FED61B77521130C8030@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7E6ADA25C6CC4824A58E06210950A1B8@LeonardPCPC>

George:  It has been awfully quite but I did received your e-mail so The 
List must be up and running.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 1:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] test-not receiving list posts yesterday or today


> Is it my problem or a list problem, I've gotten no posts in 2 days?
>
> George
> _______________________________________________

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 11 15:28:28 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 14:28:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V56uwf62UsAk4G3TCwCgyeO+08iiEkVTogeqgcB1hOcjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V56uwf62UsAk4G3TCwCgyeO+08iiEkVTogeqgcB1hOcjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C51447C30F014788965CF0F6797EDAAD@LeonardPCPC>

Fred.  Ah!  Charades.  And the next word is...????

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 1:55 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate


> Listers,
> _______________________________________________

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep 11 15:33:08 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 17:33:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V56uwf62UsAk4G3TCwCgyeO+08iiEkVTogeqgcB1hOcjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V56uwf62UsAk4G3TCwCgyeO+08iiEkVTogeqgcB1hOcjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000601cc70ca$664a45b0$32ded110$@net>

Try again Fred.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: 2011-09-11 4:55
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate

Listers,
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep 11 16:11:31 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 18:11:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6gRYAhc7ptOv-X36pFxa6FDpt2z7SDH_1zHKVUxvwpbQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6gRYAhc7ptOv-X36pFxa6FDpt2z7SDH_1zHKVUxvwpbQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000a01cc70cf$c2cedda0$486c98e0$@net>

Fred, 

Second attempt to the list is received loud and clear.

Anyway, the basic blank number tag is available from all the usual
suppliers. However, the styles of the tags changed over the years so it will
depend on what series and when it was built as to what style tag you should
buy. Once you have the correct tag, it can be sent to Clarke Spares for an
excellent job of either stamping or embossing the numbers and letters into
or out of it.
If it is for the first year of the BN1 let me know because a different tag
is used.

What series do you have?

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: 2011-09-11 5:08
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate

List,

I just received the BMIHT certificate with the build information on my car.

Can anyone tell me how to get a car/chassis number plate with the properly
stamped numbers on it?  The plate on the car now is incorrect.  Years ago,
the PO simply had a plate engraved with a partial number and that is what
the car has always been registered with.

I now want to correct the registration of the car and it will help with the
correct plate with the correct plate number as verified by the Heritage
Trust.

Thanks in advance,

Fred
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From skemple at tidewater.net  Sun Sep 11 16:45:37 2011
From: skemple at tidewater.net (Steven Kemple)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 18:45:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] archives
Message-ID: <3B2C15DA-6CDD-4349-BBDF-E117BD4D7457@tidewater.net>

I have been off line for a few weeks for some minor surgery, but always
checked the archives every few days to see what was going on.  It stopped on
Aug 21.  What happened or is it just me?

Steve Kemple

62 BT7 Tricarb

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep 11 16:51:44 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 18:51:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6gRYAhc7ptOv-X36pFxa6FDpt2z7SDH_1zHKVUxvwpbQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6gRYAhc7ptOv-X36pFxa6FDpt2z7SDH_1zHKVUxvwpbQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005401cc70d5$61027e00$23077a00$@rr.com>

Fred, you can get a new VIN plate stamped exactly as original from Todd
Clarke, at Clarke Spares and Restorations:  http://www.clarkespares.com
He requires some proof that you own the car with the number you want stamped
on the plate (copy of title, registration card, etc.).
You need to buy a blank plate to provide him, unless he is supplying the
blank plates himself now.

Apparently, you do not have the documentation with the correct number.  You
should discuss the problem with Todd.  How do you know what the complete
number should be?  What did you use to get the certificate?

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 5:08 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Certificate

List,

I just received the BMIHT certificate with the build information on my car.

Can anyone tell me how to get a car/chassis number plate with the properly
stamped numbers on it?  The plate on the car now is incorrect.  Years ago,
the PO simply had a plate engraved with a partial number and that is what
the car has always been registered with.

I now want to correct the registration of the car and it will help with the
correct plate with the correct plate number as verified by the Heritage
Trust.

Thanks in advance,

Fred

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep 11 18:43:03 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 18:43:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] archives
In-Reply-To: <3B2C15DA-6CDD-4349-BBDF-E117BD4D7457@tidewater.net>
References: <3B2C15DA-6CDD-4349-BBDF-E117BD4D7457@tidewater.net>
Message-ID: <4E6D5597.5080001@bradakis.com>

Steven Kemple wrote:
> I have been off line for a few weeks for some minor surgery, but always
> checked the archives every few days to see what was going on.  It stopped on
> Aug 21.  What happened or is it just me?
>
>

Yikes.  The whole archiving system for all lists seems to have stopped.
I'll look into it.

mjb.

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 11 21:17:20 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 22:17:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chopardcrally in Colombia
Message-ID: <CF81FFEC-E4D9-4604-956D-60319E16E9A8@yahoo.com>

Besides that the guy who took the pictures is. vW fanatic... They are nice...

A few healeys and other cars

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rkfotos/sets/72157627643701120/with/6134883293/


Sent from my iPad


Sent from my iPad

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 11 21:15:49 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 22:15:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chopard rally in Colombia
Message-ID: <631E50ED-C380-4413-BF39-4CE0EEA96254@yahoo.com>

Besides that the guy who took the pictures is. vW fanatic... They are nice...

A few healeys and other cars

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rkfotos/sets/72157627643701120/with/6134883293/


Sent from my iPad

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 11 23:56:53 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 22:56:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque - Sept ....
Message-ID: <1315807013.9617.YahooMailClassic@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Reid, Great Sept issue - especially article on Sonoma Racing, and the original
owner BJ8 story ....and a GREAT pic on p14.

Robert N. Blair 
San Jose, CA,
Yellow 65BJ8 
RNBmail at yahoo.com
 

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon Sep 12 01:09:49 2011
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 09:09:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot
Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>

Gentlemen,



I am facing the problem that the Overdrive on my BN2 is quite slow to
engage  when the gearbox is hot. Here are the symptoms /parameters:



1.    I am using Penrite 30 gearbox oil -a non detergent oil

2.    I installed a OD pressure gauge that can be read when driving the
car.

3.    Gearbox / Engine cold,  pressure is 490 Psi -Looks perfect to me

4.    OD engages faultlessly

5.    Gearbox / Engine warm (Engine Oil 200 F) OD pressure 360 Psi -Too
low.

6.    The overdrive needs about 4-5 seconds to engage in other words the
OD pressure takes that long to reach the 360 Psi again.



?  Am I facing a worn oil pump? Any advice what I can/should do.





Best regards





Thomas Willig

BN2L-230649   01. Feb. 1956

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 01:41:28 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 09:41:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot
In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmA1NfeRk4jw7eq76WPxOeDWBJNx6kGzjFCG+V8NXMr7dw@mail.gmail.com>

Maybe worn ball or seating/weakend spring at the valve.

G

2011/9/12 Thomas Willig <twillig at ruda.de>

> Gentlemen,
>
>
>
> I am facing the problem that the Overdrive on my BN2 is quite slow to
> engage  when the gearbox is hot. Here are the symptoms /parameters:
>
>
>
> 1.    I am using Penrite 30 gearbox oil -a non detergent oil
>
> 2.    I installed a OD pressure gauge that can be read when driving the
> car.
>
> 3.    Gearbox / Engine cold,  pressure is 490 Psi -Looks perfect to me
>
> 4.    OD engages faultlessly
>
> 5.    Gearbox / Engine warm (Engine Oil 200 F) OD pressure 360 Psi -Too
> low.
>
> 6.    The overdrive needs about 4-5 seconds to engage in other words the
> OD pressure takes that long to reach the 360 Psi again.
>
>
>
> ?  Am I facing a worn oil pump? Any advice what I can/should do.
>
>
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
> BN2L-230649   01. Feb. 1956
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 01:42:35 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 09:42:35 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmA1NfeRk4jw7eq76WPxOeDWBJNx6kGzjFCG+V8NXMr7dw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
	<CA+QDXmA1NfeRk4jw7eq76WPxOeDWBJNx6kGzjFCG+V8NXMr7dw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmCdAzQLW6WpDyVp1VoYXgES9=nrptU_+OW2o+Q1eZ8yFA@mail.gmail.com>

How fast do You loose the pressure after switching off the engine hot/cold?

G

2011/9/12 Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

> Maybe worn ball or seating/weakend spring at the valve.
>
> G
>
>
> 2011/9/12 Thomas Willig <twillig at ruda.de>
>
>> Gentlemen,
>>
>>
>>
>> I am facing the problem that the Overdrive on my BN2 is quite slow to
>> engage  when the gearbox is hot. Here are the symptoms /parameters:
>>
>>
>>
>> 1.    I am using Penrite 30 gearbox oil -a non detergent oil
>>
>> 2.    I installed a OD pressure gauge that can be read when driving the
>> car.
>>
>> 3.    Gearbox / Engine cold,  pressure is 490 Psi -Looks perfect to me
>>
>> 4.    OD engages faultlessly
>>
>> 5.    Gearbox / Engine warm (Engine Oil 200 F) OD pressure 360 Psi -Too
>> low.
>>
>> 6.    The overdrive needs about 4-5 seconds to engage in other words the
>> OD pressure takes that long to reach the 360 Psi again.
>>
>>
>>
>> ?  Am I facing a worn oil pump? Any advice what I can/should do.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thomas Willig
>>
>> BN2L-230649   01. Feb. 1956
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon Sep 12 06:38:03 2011
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 14:38:03 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmCdAzQLW6WpDyVp1VoYXgES9=nrptU_+OW2o+Q1eZ8yFA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local><CA+QDXmA1NfeRk4jw7eq76WPxOeDWBJNx6kGzjFCG+V8NXMr7dw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CA+QDXmCdAzQLW6WpDyVp1VoYXgES9=nrptU_+OW2o+Q1eZ8yFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B9@dw01.ruda.local>

..after about 30 seconds after the car stops, the pressure reaches  20
psi



Thomas Willig



Von: Austin Healey [mailto:pajtamuvek at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 12. September 2011 09:43
An: Thomas Willig
Cc: Healey List
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot



How fast do You loose the pressure after switching off the engine
hot/cold?



G

2011/9/12 Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

Maybe worn ball or seating/weakend spring at the valve.



G



2011/9/12 Thomas Willig <twillig at ruda.de>

Gentlemen,



I am facing the problem that the Overdrive on my BN2 is quite slow to
engage  when the gearbox is hot. Here are the symptoms /parameters:



1.    I am using Penrite 30 gearbox oil -a non detergent oil

2.    I installed a OD pressure gauge that can be read when driving the
car.

3.    Gearbox / Engine cold,  pressure is 490 Psi -Looks perfect to me

4.    OD engages faultlessly

5.    Gearbox / Engine warm (Engine Oil 200 F) OD pressure 360 Psi -Too
low.

6.    The overdrive needs about 4-5 seconds to engage in other words the
OD pressure takes that long to reach the 360 Psi again.



?  Am I facing a worn oil pump? Any advice what I can/should do.





Best regards





Thomas Willig

BN2L-230649   01. Feb. 1956
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage> :
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 07:25:14 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 09:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot
In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <CAC8_WWMoWWHjUMo0-7iWdyyrXSYZYGmcf6kutAq1femvMwBQbg@mail.gmail.com>

Thomas,

I would start by replacing the O-ring(s) on the accumulator.  You can
do this without removing the gearbox, although you
may have to unbolt the rear gearbox mounts and jack up the gear box in
order to remove the bracket which holds the
overdrive solenoid.

- Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 3:09 AM, Thomas Willig <twillig at ruda.de> wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
>
>
> I am facing the problem that the Overdrive on my BN2 is quite slow to
> engage  when the gearbox is hot. Here are the symptoms /parameters:
>
>
>
> 1.    I am using Penrite 30 gearbox oil -a non detergent oil
>
> 2.    I installed a OD pressure gauge that can be read when driving the
> car.
>
> 3.    Gearbox / Engine cold,  pressure is 490 Psi -Looks perfect to me
>
> 4.    OD engages faultlessly
>
> 5.    Gearbox / Engine warm (Engine Oil 200 F) OD pressure 360 Psi -Too
> low.
>
> 6.    The overdrive needs about 4-5 seconds to engage in other words the
> OD pressure takes that long to reach the 360 Psi again.
>
>
>
> ?  Am I facing a worn oil pump? Any advice what I can/should do.
>
>
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
> BN2L-230649   01. Feb. 1956
> _______________________________________________

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Sep 12 07:55:06 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 09:55:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot
In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <001301cc7153$945c6850$bd1538f0$@rr.com>

Thomas, I had a similar problem with the overdrive in my BJ8.  It would work
normally when the oil was cold, but after it was hot when the gearbox would
shift out of overdrive it would not go back in until the oil was cold again.
I found the internal bore of the aluminum accumulator very gouged and
scarred up.  The accumulator has a steel piston in the bore and any debris
that gets into the oil can end up scouring the softer aluminum until the
accumulator can no longer hold pressure when the oil thins out with heat.
I replaced the accumulator, piston rings, and o-rings and my overdrive has
worked great since 1993.
I did not replace the oil pump.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Willig
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 3:10 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot

Gentlemen,



I am facing the problem that the Overdrive on my BN2 is quite slow to
engage  when the gearbox is hot. Here are the symptoms /parameters:



1.    I am using Penrite 30 gearbox oil -a non detergent oil

2.    I installed a OD pressure gauge that can be read when driving the
car.

3.    Gearbox / Engine cold,  pressure is 490 Psi -Looks perfect to me

4.    OD engages faultlessly

5.    Gearbox / Engine warm (Engine Oil 200 F) OD pressure 360 Psi -Too
low.

6.    The overdrive needs about 4-5 seconds to engage in other words the
OD pressure takes that long to reach the 360 Psi again.



?  Am I facing a worn oil pump? Any advice what I can/should do.





Best regards





Thomas Willig

BN2L-230649   01. Feb. 1956
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3891 - Release Date: 09/11/11

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 12 09:15:00 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 08:15:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot
In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <0236F2C3-DC05-4DB6-98FE-5F2C1AEE2CBD@sbcglobal.net>

The pressure should be ok. The problem in most likley one of the  
check balls is not seated correctly of the adjusment of the solenoid  
is not pulling the operating rod high enough.
Look closley at the seat of the check valve on the side of the oil  
pump it may be worn a little to one side. If so you can cut a new  
seat on the pump body.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 12, 2011, at 12:09 AM, Thomas Willig wrote:

> Gentlemen,
>
>
>
> I am facing the problem that the Overdrive on my BN2 is quite slow to
> engage  when the gearbox is hot. Here are the symptoms /parameters:
>
>
>
> 1.    I am using Penrite 30 gearbox oil -a non detergent oil
>
> 2.    I installed a OD pressure gauge that can be read when driving  
> the
> car.
>
> 3.    Gearbox / Engine cold,  pressure is 490 Psi -Looks perfect to me
>
> 4.    OD engages faultlessly
>
> 5.    Gearbox / Engine warm (Engine Oil 200 F) OD pressure 360 Psi - 
> Too
> low.
>
> 6.    The overdrive needs about 4-5 seconds to engage in other  
> words the
> OD pressure takes that long to reach the 360 Psi again.
>
>
>
> ?  Am I facing a worn oil pump? Any advice what I can/should do.
>
>
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
> BN2L-230649   01. Feb. 1956
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From tonup at tellink.net  Mon Sep 12 09:29:48 2011
From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 11:29:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis number plate question
Message-ID: <ECAA037F39C645A2A7296E9F2BD4EDBC@FrankPC>

While on the subject of number plates, I have a question about my BN6.

On the firewall are two plates, one with the "car number" (BN6Lxxxx) and the
other with two four digit numbers (xxxx/xxxx).

Can someone please tell me what the second number plate represents?  Should
either number on the second plate match the "car number"?

Thanks,
Frank

From cynicbass at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 10:01:58 2011
From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 16:01:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis number plate question
In-Reply-To: <ECAA037F39C645A2A7296E9F2BD4EDBC@FrankPC>
References: <ECAA037F39C645A2A7296E9F2BD4EDBC@FrankPC>
Message-ID: <0A567B38-A927-44D8-90E7-2B79002AEDD8@gmail.com>

No, neither number should match the car number. The first 4 digit number is
the batch number from the body maker and the second number is the body number
of your car.the second number will appear along with the car and engine
numbers on the heritage certificate.

Richard
BN2

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On Sep 12, 2011, at 15:29, "Frank" <tonup at tellink.net> wrote:

> While on the subject of number plates, I have a question about my BN6.
>
> On the firewall are two plates, one with the "car number" (BN6Lxxxx) and
the
> other with two four digit numbers (xxxx/xxxx).
>
> Can someone please tell me what the second number plate represents?  Should
> either number on the second plate match the "car number"?
>
> Thanks,
> Frank
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 12:09:01 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey])
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 04:09:01 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Alfin rear brake drums for a 3000 BJ8
Message-ID: <CAKAwfjfmr_AUf17aHfije3LvVgXr25+XhBUk3nvJU6hLteU8Fw@mail.gmail.com>

Has anyone got a source for Alfin type drums for the rear of a 3000 BJ8?
Looks like there are several sources for BN1 fronts - but not later 3000
rears?
Or has anyone adapted Alfin drums from anything else (TR6?)
Best
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 12:48:34 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 11:48:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alfin rear brake drums for a 3000 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <CAKAwfjfmr_AUf17aHfije3LvVgXr25+XhBUk3nvJU6hLteU8Fw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKAwfjfmr_AUf17aHfije3LvVgXr25+XhBUk3nvJU6hLteU8Fw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeR0V8pNPfG8mVX-gmF_ye+QXt7H8PU_Tkiuz9JHPPuAaA@mail.gmail.com>

Chris,

You've probably already checked these folks out but if not try...

Sebert Motor car Co. Ltd.

http://www.sebertmotors.com/default.htm

They also make custom brake drums.  I called them and left a message, so I
send you their response if and when I get one.

Cheers,

Curt

On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 11:09 AM, Chris Dimmock [Healey] <
austin.healey at gmail.com> wrote:

> Has anyone got a source for Alfin type drums for the rear of a 3000 BJ8?
> Looks like there are several sources for BN1 fronts - but not later 3000
> rears?
> Or has anyone adapted Alfin drums from anything else (TR6?)
> Best
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Sep 12 13:14:32 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 15:14:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Numbers, numbers
Message-ID: <8ce.6a4fa4a.3b9fb418@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/12/11 11:35:50 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> No, neither number should match the car number. The first 4 digit number 
> is
> the batch number from the body maker and the second number is the body 
> number
> of your car.the second number will appear along with the car and engine
> numbers on the heritage certificate.
> 
The funny thing is that the body number and the car number may be just 
close enough to one another to be confusing. I just redid a concours certificate 
today for a car with car number suffix 16460 and body number suffix 16486. 
Had me going for awhile since the fellow had filled in his judging sheet 
with just the suffix of the car number, rather than with the H and the body 
style code.

G.

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 14:02:35 2011
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 16:02:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
Message-ID: <FD60EB00-073A-418A-A616-BD8449CC9668@gmail.com>

Does anyone have a good source for correct, period lap type seat belts for a
100? (or close at least - not racing type belt)

Got aset from Moss today and will need to return.

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M  White/Black
'56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From cynicbass at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 14:34:11 2011
From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 20:34:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
In-Reply-To: <FD60EB00-073A-418A-A616-BD8449CC9668@gmail.com>
References: <FD60EB00-073A-418A-A616-BD8449CC9668@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A7F56B92-1F55-4BED-9970-85141A3FD15D@gmail.com>

I got my lap belts from Bob Yule, you can see them next week when I come by,
depending upon the weather :)
Richard
BN2

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On Sep 12, 2011, at 20:02, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a good source for correct, period lap type seat belts for
a
> 100? (or close at least - not racing type belt)
>
> Got aset from Moss today and will need to return.
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M  White/Black
> '56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
> '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep 12 16:29:57 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 17:29:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Alfin rear brake drums for a 3000 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <CAKAwfjfmr_AUf17aHfije3LvVgXr25+XhBUk3nvJU6hLteU8Fw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKAwfjfmr_AUf17aHfije3LvVgXr25+XhBUk3nvJU6hLteU8Fw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D30FC378FE0344D7BF43172E48FA6D60@GregPC>

I don't know if TR6 is adaptable to BJ8, but if it is 240z is adabtable to 
TR6, and  240z's used an aluminum finned drum stock, you can get used or 
repro, reasonable prices, always some on e-bay.

Greg Lemon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Dimmock [Healey]" <austin.healey at gmail.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 1:09 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Alfin rear brake drums for a 3000 BJ8


> Has anyone got a source for Alfin type drums for the rear of a 3000 BJ8?
> Looks like there are several sources for BN1 fronts - but not later 3000
> rears?
> Or has anyone adapted Alfin drums from anything else (TR6?)
> Best
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 16:36:18 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 15:36:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear seat belts BT7
Message-ID: <CABXhz89jFHxCNYZQvQzB_v=LCqgAg2SJhd3+69p5GFo3XjHMvw@mail.gmail.com>

Any ideas on rear belt set up?
Mounting points?
Any photos to share would be appreciated off list...

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 12 17:37:51 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 16:37:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rear seat belts BT7
Message-ID: <1315870671.44787.YahooMailClassic@web30304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Ira;  You may wish to check out the AHC Southern Ontario website
technical page:
http://www.ahcso.com/Technical.html   and specifically 
http://www.ahcso.com/pdfs/seat_belt_asj.pdf
 
For rear seat belts, go to John Sims website at
http://www.healey6.com/email%20postings/Removeable%20Seat%20Belts%20BJ8.pdf
or http://tinyurl.com/6dmct5k

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada      - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Mon, 9/12/11, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:<< Any ideas on rear
belt set up?  Mounting points?  Any photos to share would be appreciated off
list... >>

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 12 18:16:26 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 17:16:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
Message-ID: <1315872986.78677.YahooMailClassic@web161202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Don't think there was ever a "factory" belt for Healeys, and certainly not for
the 100.  The Brits seemed to favor the "Britax" brand with a silver colored
pebbly web material available here: 
http://www.quickfitsbs.com/static_lap_straps_classic.php  U.S dealer belts
were made by Beam's Inc which is still around as seatbeltplanet.com.  Their
aircraft belts seem to be the originals in the 60s, but I'm not sure whether
they had belts available when the 100s were current.  If you decide to go with
something from seatbeltplanet contact Steve Pekrul at: 
stevepekrul at seatbeltplanet.com  He's their classic car guy and was more than
happy to work with me on a special order.  You can find BMC seat belt stickers
here: 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMC-Britax-Seatbelt-Stickers-Mini-Cooper-S-Seven-7-
MK1-/330507485406?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cf3c800de 
although I think even these are too late for the 100.  These are my best
guesses and
 I think are pretty accurate for the mid-late 60s Healeys, but could certainly
be wrong for the earlier models.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 9/12/11, Richard Korn <cynicbass at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Richard Korn <cynicbass at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
To: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, September 12, 2011, 4:34 PM

I got my lap belts from Bob Yule, you can see them next week when I come by,
depending upon the weather :)
Richard
BN2

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On Sep 12, 2011, at 20:02, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a good source for correct, period lap type seat belts for
a
> 100? (or close at
 least - not racing type belt)
>
> Got aset from Moss today and will need to return.
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M  White/Black
> '56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
> '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 12 18:40:21 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 20:40:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque - Sept ....
References: <1315807013.9617.YahooMailClassic@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000601cc71ad$b88a3d10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I don't think Reid is on this list any longer.  You may try his blog or the 
email in the magazine.

ML

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 1:56 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque - Sept ....


> Reid, Great Sept issue - especially article on Sonoma Racing, and the 
> original
> owner BJ8 story ....and a GREAT pic on p14.
>
> Robert N. Blair
> San Jose, CA,
> Yellow 65BJ8
> RNBmail at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From dwflagg at juno.com  Mon Sep 12 19:11:19 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 21:11:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque - Sept ....
Message-ID: <20110912.181217.995.684539@mailpop07.dca.untd.com>

 And why is that??

> I don't think Reid is on this list any longer.  You may try his blog 
> or the 
> email in the magazine.
> 
> ML
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 1:56 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque - Sept ....
> 
> 
> > Reid, Great Sept issue - especially article on Sonoma Racing, and 
> the 
> > original
> > owner BJ8 story ....and a GREAT pic on p14.
> >
> > Robert N. Blair
> > San Jose, CA,
> > Yellow 65BJ8
> > RNBmail at yahoo.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> > 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Soaring 3000%
Sign up for Free to find out what the next 3000% Stock Winner is!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e6eae0385beb3d5c57st04duc

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Mon Sep 12 23:42:57 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 01:42:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
Message-ID: <0607AE33BB964D94802D8119F27A39B8@9535DEE118EC44B>

General seat belt awareness and availability parallelled the Austin Healey's
life fairly closely.  A page-by-page, month-by-month search through Road and
Track shows not a single reference to seat belts anywhere in the extensive
Christmas (accessory) Showcase December 1953 issue.

Marion Weber's MG Mitten company begins including nylon "safety belts" in her
ads towards the end of 1954.  Three colours (no black).  They were a pricey
item at $ 19.50 / pr, the same price as a finned aluminum valve cover.  A
convertible top cost $ 29.50 at the time.  Military supplier Mareco of
California offered belts both in nylon and cheaper cotton ("as used by TWA")
shortly after.  BAP/ Geon offered racing harnesses, but we're talking general
public awareness of belts here.

Leslie Irvin designed a seat belt for Barney Oldfield in 1922. His company,
the Irvin Air Chute company (of which he lost control) supplied a great many
of the early seat belts for both US and European makes.  Corvettes offered
them as dealer-installed options in 1956.  Deranged Corvette originality nuts
seek out these early Irvin belts and pay $ 500 for a NOS lap belt set:
http://www.wernersparts.com/Seat%20Belts.htm  .  Or repros can be had from
places like Andover Restraints, with either early polished aluminum buckles or
later chrome ones.   Austin-Healey began fitting mounting plates with the 3000
Mark II model.

As well as Irvin (with its distinctive parachute logo), British cars used
Britax brand belts and the wonderful fall-apart Kangol Magnet type.  The
earliest Kangol Magnet belts of the fifties had a rounded cast lifting tab
made of a dark metal, which was replaced by the familiar black plastic lifting
tab with a logo sticker, in the early sixties.  My examples of the very early
Kangol type all have a webbing of a distinctively British rectangular pattern,
are all in a silver-grey colour, and incorporate detailed plastic sleeving and
snaps.

The majority of vintage belts I've rescued from old British sportscars tend to
have an American coarse pebble-grain webbing with no visible "stripes".  Most
with chrome buckles, except for the odd off-brand.  A great variety of colours
was available to match the upholstery, and this webbing could still be found
new fairly recently.

Old period seatbelt webbing is distinctive in being thick and coarse-grained.
Virtually all modern belts, including the lap-belt repros, are now made of the
familiar thin, smooth, four-stripe type, which became necessary when the
inertia-reel belts (invented in 1963) required tight packing and a smooth
sliding action.

So the static belt pretty much followed the production life of the Austin
Healey.

Best
Peter

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Sep 13 02:24:55 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 10:24:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
In-Reply-To: <0607AE33BB964D94802D8119F27A39B8@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <0607AE33BB964D94802D8119F27A39B8@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <4E6F1357.2000101@chello.nl>

Don't mess about with safety belts. If you don't drive the thing get no 
or original spec belts for a trailer queen. If you do serious driving in 
modern traffic get the best you can install and use new modern materials 
and buckles. Best would be 5-point harness (track), second best 4-point 
harness (track & road) and the minimum is a 3-point fixed (best) or 
automatic reel (for comfort) belt.
The 3-point is the most practical solution for day to day driving

Make very sure that the lap portion is positioned over the thighs/lower 
part of the pelvis and that the top of the buckle is level with the seat 
cushion just in front of the seat  back. A lap belt over the abdomen is 
absolutely lethal in even smallish accidents, most certainly for the 
persons that generally drive these cars: older and overweight men. It 
will cause massive internal trauma.

The guide or fixed point for the shoulder strap can be fitted on top of 
the rear wheel well or somewhere near. The reel can be fitted 
(vertically) somewhere below the shoulder strap guide. You may have to 
weld a bracket for the reel on the rear wheel well. There are reels that 
can be fitted directly at the shoulder strap fixing point

If no fixing points are available originally you have to use steel 
backing plates of around 2" x 3" and 0,15" thick. Use  grade 8 quality 
7/16" UNF bolts and nuts, the usual standard for safety belt bolts. You 
can tack the nuts to the backing plates for easier fitting.

Always check the position and orientation the reel has to be fitted in. 
Some can be adjusted I believe.

For the 4 and 5 point harnesses there are variations with a reel. In 
these cases the 2 shoulder straps are joined and fixed to a single strap 
on an automatic reel which is fitted straight behind the seat near or on 
the rear deck. But you have to strengthen the area it is fixed to.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Tue Sep 13 06:07:21 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:07:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-fhbxLcA7HXwCGAwXY2W=Gcb2d34L8M-4HiAWdR2shsqQ@mail.gmail.com>

My apologies if I missed this information. When I bought my Bugeye, seat
belts were a dealer option. At that time seat belts didn't come with metal
to metal latches. There was one latch and you threaded the other potion
through it, then tightened the strap and secured it by pressing down on the
latch.

My BT7, cane with  two point belt and had metal to metal latches.

You can buy the seat belt hardware from British Car Specialist.  I have no
special interest other than being a happy customer. I also appreciate David
following the list and sharing his expertise as did he father before him.

Some  shops will not install them unless they to do a restoration. The first
shop I asked refused and also refused to explain why. The second shop said
they would do it if I agreed not to leave a paper trail. He explained that
he had no way of knowing if the sheet metal had deteriorated and belts
should not be installed until the metal was verified. It was a matter of
liability.
I never got further than that and still have the parts.

Jack

Jack

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Sep 13 06:23:42 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 8:23:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
In-Reply-To: <4E6F1357.2000101@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <20110913082342.QGBDB.89427.root@pamxwww04-z01>

Good info Kees.  I only have the lap belts in my BJ8 and have often thought of adding the over-the-shoulder types.  do you have any links to good examples of them?  Also, where do you attach the added shoulder straps.  I assume on the two rear side bolts on either side of the jump seats?

thanks
tom

---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
Don't mess about with safety belts. If you don't drive the thing get no 
or original spec belts for a trailer queen. If you do serious driving in 
modern traffic get the best you can install and use new modern materials 
and buckles. Best would be 5-point harness (track), second best 4-point 
harness (track & road) and the minimum is a 3-point fixed (best) or 
automatic reel (for comfort) belt.
The 3-point is the most practical solution for day to day driving

Make very sure that the lap portion is positioned over the thighs/lower 
part of the pelvis and that the top of the buckle is level with the seat 
cushion just in front of the seat  back. A lap belt over the abdomen is 
absolutely lethal in even smallish accidents, most certainly for the 
persons that generally drive these cars: older and overweight men. It 
will cause massive internal trauma.

The guide or fixed point for the shoulder strap can be fitted on top of 
the rear wheel well or somewhere near. The reel can be fitted 
(vertically) somewhere below the shoulder strap guide. You may have to 
weld a bracket for the reel on the rear wheel well. There are reels that 
can be fitted directly at the shoulder strap fixing point

If no fixing points are available originally you have to use steel 
backing plates of around 2" x 3" and 0,15" thick. Use  grade 8 quality 
7/16" UNF bolts and nuts, the usual standard for safety belt bolts. You 
can tack the nuts to the backing plates for easier fitting.

Always check the position and orientation the reel has to be fitted in. 
Some can be adjusted I believe.

For the 4 and 5 point harnesses there are variations with a reel. In 
these cases the 2 shoulder straps are joined and fixed to a single strap 
on an automatic reel which is fitted straight behind the seat near or on 
the rear deck. But you have to strengthen the area it is fixed to.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 13 07:50:28 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 06:50:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
Message-ID: <1315921828.8841.YahooMailClassic@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Actually Peter, the Austin Service Journal bulletin, dated November 16, 1961,
shows that seat belts with anchorage fittings for either driverbs or front
passengerbs use were available as follows:-
B  Healey 100 Six (BN4 & BN6) Part No. AHB9141
B  Healey 3000 (BN7 & BT7) up to Car No. 13750 Part No. AHB9141
B  Healey Sprite (AN5) Part No. AHA6283
B 
You may wish to check out the AHC Southern Ontario website technical page:
http://www.ahcso.com/Technical.html and specifically
http://www.ahcso.com/pdfs/seat_belt_asj.pdf

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, OntarioB B B B B B B B B B B B B  B - Keep Smiling,
Murphy Lives

--- On Tue, 9/13/11, Peter Svilans <peter.svilans at rogers.com> wrote: <<
......B Austin-Healey began fitting mounting plates with the 3000 Mark II
model. ...... >>

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Tue Sep 13 08:45:20 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 10:45:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
Message-ID: <4423EA8999204868B6830D10302E70A6@9535DEE118EC44B>

Thanks for that, Scott.

I'm aware of that Technical Bulletin.  It was issued BMC-wide at the same time
Nov 17, 1961, and can also be found in the yellow MG Tech Bulletins with the
same diagrams but using MG serial numbers.

The key word in it is "drill".  It shows how to retrofit belts into previous
as well as current models.  No argument there, but the same procedure, without
the Tech Bulletin, could have been followed installing a set of Irvin belts a
decade earlier.

My point was that the Austin-Healey bodyshell first incorporated pressings and
permanent welded reinforcing plates for dealer accessory belts with the
introduction of the Mark II in March of 1961 at chassis no. 13751, at last
making the commitment to belts official.

Best,
Peter

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 13 09:21:44 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 08:21:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Healey Marque - Sept ....
Message-ID: <1315927304.20557.YahooMailClassic@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Reid, Someone said you do not watch the list anymore ....so here again.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 
--- On Sun, 9/11/11, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Healey Marque - Sept ....
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, September 11, 2011, 10:56 PM

> Reid, Great Sept issue - especially
> article on Sonoma Racing, and the original owner BJ8 story
> ....and a GREAT pic on p14.
>
> Robert N. Blair 
> San Jose, CA,
> Yellow 65BJ8 
> RNBmail at yahoo.com
>
>  

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Sep 13 11:55:44 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 19:55:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
In-Reply-To: <20110913082342.QGBDB.89427.root@pamxwww04-z01>
References: <20110913082342.QGBDB.89427.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Message-ID: <4E6F9920.5050801@chello.nl>

Tom,
I do not know where these points in the rear are exactly located. If 
these fixings are far apart you may have to cross the shoulder straps, 
left shoulder to right fixing point etc. Ideally you should fit the 
belts as high as possible, but there are obviously no proper mounting 
points fitted near the deck. If you have a roll over bar, you can weld 
some brackets onto that in suitable places. It has to be done expertly 
as these points have to withstand 18.000N minimum (before 
breaking/collapsing, you may allow distortion)
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Tue Sep 13 12:04:15 2011
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 11:04:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Phil Newey Cars
Message-ID: <D6BEF4E9A8E74435B58981E71DC0345D@JerryPC>

Has Anyone done business with this guy?  He has contacted me to buy one of my
cars, and is willing to buy the car without ever seeing the car in person.
He is a dealer and sells classics.
Feedback on Ebay is good, some other comments on the web not as good.

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car-dealer/La+Habra-CA/Phil+Newey+S
ports+Cars-1391821.xhtml

Jerry
TR3A
BN4
BJ8

From britcrs at gmail.com  Tue Sep 13 16:21:03 2011
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 15:21:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Phil Newey Cars
In-Reply-To: <D6BEF4E9A8E74435B58981E71DC0345D@JerryPC>
References: <D6BEF4E9A8E74435B58981E71DC0345D@JerryPC>
Message-ID: <CAHuLBP8zXYs6Eefw4Bub_dutVFqBbEkLm_qT68BrU0JaYVeR9w@mail.gmail.com>

I went to his showroom several years ago to look at a Tri-Carb he had on
eBay. I didn't think the car lived up to his description (and it was
overpriced IMHO). I don't know how it would be to deal with him as a seller.

Marv J

On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 11:04 AM, Jerry Costanzo
<grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>wrote:

> Has Anyone done business with this guy?  He has contacted me to buy one of
> my
> cars, and is willing to buy the car without ever seeing the car in person.
> He is a dealer and sells classics.
> Feedback on Ebay is good, some other comments on the web not as good.
>
>
> http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car-dealer/La+Habra-CA/Phil+Newey+S
> ports+Cars-1391821.xhtml
>
> Jerry
> TR3A
> BN4
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com

From dwflagg at juno.com  Tue Sep 13 18:42:54 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 20:42:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tom Felts
Message-ID: <20110913.174357.961.565210@mailpop09.dca.untd.com>

Tom,

Please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e6ff8ee5e22f417eaast06duc

From caddi5 at comcast.net  Wed Sep 14 04:09:04 2011
From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 10:09:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] inner sill replacement
Message-ID: <1731997455.595012.1315994944247.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello,
I am finally installing the inner sills on my 59 bn4............anyone have detailed pictures,measurements.....I am having problems ....sill appears to high.......I have the frame sitting on sawhorses positioned as Rich said (just in front of front outrigger 6" and just behind rear outrigger 6")  frame is level .....end of outriggers are level to each other.........but the end of outriggers to frame rails seem to be 1/2" high?? both of them.............I am using kilmartin sills.............I am lost... any help would be gratefully accepted!!!
frame/chassis is stripped down ...NO engine,suspension,doors,fenders,shrouds,etc...........

Mitch Simmons
59 bn4

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Sep 14 06:41:45 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 08:41:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] inner sill replacement
In-Reply-To: <1731997455.595012.1315994944247.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1731997455.595012.1315994944247.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000d01cc72db$a98287d0$fc879770$@net>

Mitch, 

As stated many times before, (plus it's probably noted in the archives)
there is a chassis diagram for your model in the Body section of the
original workshop manual. The top surfaces of the outriggers are all on the
exact flat plane as the top of the chassis rails. The inner wall surface of
the inner sills sit on the ends of the outriggers which are stepped on the
ends  to receive the sills. The top surface of the inner sill is 3" above
that of the top surface of the chassis, outriggers and therefore floors.
That and many other dimensions are noted on the diagram. It's in fine print
so you may want to copy and enlarge the diagram to see everything easier.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of caddi5 at comcast.net
Sent: 2011-09-14 6:09
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] inner sill replacement

Hello,
I am finally installing the inner sills on my 59 bn4............anyone have
detailed pictures,measurements.....I am having problems ....sill appears to
high.......I have the frame sitting on sawhorses positioned as Rich said
(just in front of front outrigger 6" and just behind rear outrigger 6")
frame is level .....end of outriggers are level to each other.........but
the end of outriggers to frame rails seem to be 1/2" high?? both of
them.............I am using kilmartin sills.............I am lost... any
help would be gratefully accepted!!!
frame/chassis is stripped down ...NO
engine,suspension,doors,fenders,shrouds,etc...........

Mitch Simmons
59 bn4
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Wed Sep 14 08:20:03 2011
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 10:20:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Victoria British fuel pump query
Message-ID: <8D17BE61468647F7887264E0E6BFFDC8@atc0f226cd3237>

Does anyone know if the 3-084 fuel pump Victoria British sells

 (described and shown here) 
http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/ah/AHFP2.htm

is a direct bolt-in replacement for the original SU on a BT7?   Has anyone 
tried one of these low cost plastic-housed pumps?

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm 

From bstarke at telus.net  Wed Sep 14 09:59:35 2011
From: bstarke at telus.net (Bruce Starke)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 09:59:35 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Victoria British fuel pump query
In-Reply-To: <8D17BE61468647F7887264E0E6BFFDC8@atc0f226cd3237>
References: <8D17BE61468647F7887264E0E6BFFDC8@atc0f226cd3237>
Message-ID: <9D71CB5CCEAB43EB81F1A48784C0E763@BruceStarkePC>

I bought 2 pumps looking exactly like this one ( marked MOPROD) a few years 
ago. They were about 1/2 the price of an SU pump . One lasted 2000 miles and 
the second 5 miles-----had to push the car home but fortunately was only a 
block away. Now paid the extra and put in an SU with electronic points and 
all is well so far but only 1500 miles on it The plastic bodied pumps do fit 
in the original location and on the original mounting.
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
Tricarb

> Does anyone know if the 3-084 fuel pump Victoria British sells
>
> (described and shown here) 
> http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/ah/AHFP2.htm
>
> is a direct bolt-in replacement for the original SU on a BT7?   Has anyone 
> tried one of these low cost plastic-housed pumps?
>
> == Alex in Maine
>     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
>     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
>     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
>     1965 MG Midget
>     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm 

From kags at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 14 10:04:31 2011
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 09:04:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Victoria British fuel pump query
In-Reply-To: <8D17BE61468647F7887264E0E6BFFDC8@atc0f226cd3237>
References: <8D17BE61468647F7887264E0E6BFFDC8@atc0f226cd3237>
Message-ID: <6C6EAAD4FBD946AC8493A3B3C687D6E9@KagsLaptop>

Alex:

That pump looks identical to the 'Moprod' branded pump that I have been 
using successfully in both the BT7 and the BJ8 for many years.  There might 
be a very slight bit of tweaking to get the fuel line banjo fittings lined 
up to the sockets on the pump, but it's pretty well a replacement fit.  The 
pump can be hooked up either POS or NEG ground.  The white flat ring seals 
supplied with the pump are far better than the original fibre washers - I 
think that they are a relatively soft neoprene.

If you do it, just slightly past hand tight is the way to go - you're 
threading the banjo bolts into plastic!  They don't seem to leak at all, in 
my experience.

Definitely worth a try.

Where in Maine are you?

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb



-----Original Message----- 
From: Alex
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 7:20 AM
To: Healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Victoria British fuel pump query

Does anyone know if the 3-084 fuel pump Victoria British sells

(described and shown here)
http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/ah/AHFP2.htm

is a direct bolt-in replacement for the original SU on a BT7?   Has anyone
tried one of these low cost plastic-housed pumps?

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed Sep 14 14:28:23 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 12:28:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Phil_Newey_Cars?=
Message-ID: <20110914202823.20491.qmail@hoster902.com>

I interacted with Phil in 1999 when I was looking for my BN6. He was running a picture of a BN6 or 7 in Autotrader.com for a very low price - $12k as I recall. 

I went over to his store and it turned out to be a BN4 or BT7 in totally rough condition that looked like generations of chickens had been roosting in it. He claimed his web guy had made a mistake with the picture. "Lovely straight body" was how he referred to the car. It needed _everything_!

That said, that was 12 years ago and he's still doing business in the same place in La Habra so he must be pleasing some people.

He did have some decent cars at decent prices at the time.


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Sep 14 14:42:14 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 16:42:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Selling Sight Unseen
Message-ID: <17bb1.791494f0.3ba26ba6@aol.com>

Has Anyone done business with this guy?  He has contacted me to buy one of
my
cars, and is willing to buy the car without ever seeing the car in person.
He is a dealer and sells classics.
Feedback on Ebay is good, some other comments on the web not as good.

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car-dealer/La+Habra-CA/Phil+Newey+
S
ports+Cars-1391821.xhtml

Even though there appears to be a physical location for the person offering
to buy your car, I'd still be extremely cautious. How is it likely that
someone stays in business buying from individual sellers sight unseen. Even a
good crystal ball wouldn't support that kind of policy.
On the other hand, if he's willing to do a bank transfer directly into your
account (set up a separate one just for the transaction if you go this way)
rather than a certified check, and doesn't expect you to pay the truck
driver out of your pocket or with the "excess from his check" you could
probably
chance it. Just make sure that your bank says that the money is in your
account, and they aren't going to take it back out again before you ship the
car -- on a truck that he's arranged and paid for.

In other words, this could be a version of the old cashier's check fraud,
only done with the cover of an apparently legitimate dealer.

I'd sure feel more confident dealing on a face-to-face basis with the
person, or their local representative.

G.

From insptwo at msn.com  Wed Sep 14 19:34:43 2011
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 21:34:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Selling Sight Unseen
In-Reply-To: <17bb1.791494f0.3ba26ba6@aol.com>
References: <17bb1.791494f0.3ba26ba6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W1765DF050D50138D73ACAAD070@phx.gbl>

I would be extremely leery of this person. My son almost got taken last year
on this "jive". Turns out that the checking account didn't exist and they were
buying the car unseen, sending their own truck to pick it up. Beware of "fake"
cashiers checks. They look great and are almost worth the price of the paper
it took to print it.
Bill
BJ7


> From: Editorgary at aol.com
> Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 16:42:14 -0400
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selling Sight Unseen
>
> Has Anyone done business with this guy? He has contacted me to buy one of
> my
> cars, and is willing to buy the car without ever seeing the car in person.
> He is a dealer and sells classics.
> Feedback on Ebay is good, some other comments on the web not as good.
>
>
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car-dealer/La+Habra-CA/Phil+Newey+
> S
> ports+Cars-1391821.xhtml
>
> Even though there appears to be a physical location for the person offering
> to buy your car, I'd still be extremely cautious. How is it likely that
> someone stays in business buying from individual sellers sight unseen. Even
a
> good crystal ball wouldn't support that kind of policy.
> On the other hand, if he's willing to do a bank transfer directly into your
> account (set up a separate one just for the transaction if you go this way)
> rather than a certified check, and doesn't expect you to pay the truck
> driver out of your pocket or with the "excess from his check" you could
> probably
> chance it. Just make sure that your bank says that the money is in your
> account, and they aren't going to take it back out again before you ship
the
> car -- on a truck that he's arranged and paid for.
>
> In other words, this could be a version of the old cashier's check fraud,
> only done with the cover of an apparently legitimate dealer.
>
> I'd sure feel more confident dealing on a face-to-face basis with the
> person, or their local representative.
>
> G.

From fiat500f at aol.com  Thu Sep 15 00:32:03 2011
From: fiat500f at aol.com (Paul Barnes)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 02:32:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
Message-ID: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>

More Chinese parts problems.  Why not just make them right?

http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html?utm_source=Mos
sMotors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall

Paul B.

From coll44 at msn.com  Thu Sep 15 02:49:36 2011
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 04:49:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
In-Reply-To: <20110913082342.QGBDB.89427.root@pamxwww04-z01>
References: <4E6F1357.2000101@chello.nl>,
	<20110913082342.QGBDB.89427.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Message-ID: <BLU165-W4781047B7D4BE50FD23065C9070@phx.gbl>

Tom, Vicky Brits has them on pg 28 of the current catalog.  I've been thinking
of getting them and wonder if anyone here has any pros or cons on those belts.
Terry Coll  '64 BJ8
 > Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 08:23:42 -0400
> From: tomfelts at windstream.net
> To: peter.svilans at rogers.com; coudesluijs at chello.nl
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
>
> Good info Kees.  I only have the lap belts in my BJ8 and have often thought
of adding the over-the-shoulder types.  do you have any links to good examples
of them?  Also, where do you attach the added shoulder straps.  I assume on
the two rear side bolts on either side of the jump seats?
>
> thanks
> tom
>
> ---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
> =============
> Don't mess about with safety belts. If you don't drive the thing get no
> or original spec belts for a trailer queen. If you do serious driving in
> modern traffic get the best you can install and use new modern materials
> and buckles. Best would be 5-point harness (track), second best 4-point
> harness (track & road) and the minimum is a 3-point fixed (best) or
> automatic reel (for comfort) belt.
> The 3-point is the most practical solution for day to day driving
>
> Make very sure that the lap portion is positioned over the thighs/lower
> part of the pelvis and that the top of the buckle is level with the seat
> cushion just in front of the seat  back. A lap belt over the abdomen is
> absolutely lethal in even smallish accidents, most certainly for the
> persons that generally drive these cars: older and overweight men. It
> will cause massive internal trauma.
>
> The guide or fixed point for the shoulder strap can be fitted on top of
> the rear wheel well or somewhere near. The reel can be fitted
> (vertically) somewhere below the shoulder strap guide. You may have to
> weld a bracket for the reel on the rear wheel well. There are reels that
> can be fitted directly at the shoulder strap fixing point
>
> If no fixing points are available originally you have to use steel
> backing plates of around 2" x 3" and 0,15" thick. Use  grade 8 quality
> 7/16" UNF bolts and nuts, the usual standard for safety belt bolts. You
> can tack the nuts to the backing plates for easier fitting.
>
> Always check the position and orientation the reel has to be fitted in.
> Some can be adjusted I believe.
>
> For the 4 and 5 point harnesses there are variations with a reel. In
> these cases the 2 shoulder straps are joined and fixed to a single strap
> on an automatic reel which is fitted straight behind the seat near or on
> the rear deck. But you have to strengthen the area it is fixed to.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
coudesluijs.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 04:49:40 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 20:49:40 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
Message-ID: <E1230507-1B7F-46AC-A6C1-14F6AEA1FB2B@gmail.com>

I think in these more modern, transparent times, it's a good call from  
Moss.
I've never bought anything from Moss -mainly because I live in  
Australia, and I've typically dealt with UK businesses, having lived  
in Warwick in the early 1990's. AH Spares, Denis Welch, and more  
recently, ahead4healeys got my resto dollars.
Even with legislation, reading that recall notice, anyone would be  
hard pressed to prove that their mcyl killed them after the fact.  
(irony intended)
Good on Moss for owning up and doing a recall. I have more respect for  
them.
Not a customer. But maybe I might.
Sincerely.
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com


Sent from my iPhone

On 15/09/2011, at 4:32 PM, "Paul Barnes" <fiat500f at aol.com> wrote:

> More Chinese parts problems.  Why not just make them right?
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html?utm_source=Mos
> sMotors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall
>
> Paul B.
> __________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 06:00:13 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 20:00:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>

Why on earth would you want to make brake parts correctly, when you can make
them oh so much cheaper. They're just brakes, it doesn't matter.

By the way, I have some really cheap baby formula to sell you.  It's really
cheap!

Alan

On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Paul Barnes <fiat500f at aol.com> wrote:

> More Chinese parts problems.  Why not just make them right?
>
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html?utm_source=Mos
> sMotors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall
>
> Paul B.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Sep 15 07:46:32 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 9:46:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
Message-ID: <20110915094632.SMHER.106580.root@pamxwww09-z01>

Try this link

http://tinyurl.com/6gfsr3s
 tom

---- Paul Barnes <fiat500f at aol.com> wrote: 

=============
More Chinese parts problems.  Why not just make them right?

http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html?utm_source=Mos
sMotors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall

Paul B.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Sep 15 08:39:12 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:39:12 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
	<CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>

Why do the Chinese want to make things cheap?
Not their fault but the fault of greedy (Western) consumers who do not 
want to part with their cash, thus killing proper manufacturers.
You cannot blame the Chinese, blame yourselves.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 15 08:44:10 2011
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 10:44:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] aux power in pos. ground car
Message-ID: <SNT143-W45004FAE996889D6FEEAADD4070@phx.gbl>

I found a nice 3M automotive twin (can do two cars) power cord (#03873na) that
Wal-mart sells for about $6.00.  It is fully insulated with a plastic end cap.
I plan to cut the cig lighter plug from the end and attach bullet connectors
and a inline fuse.  I am going to plug into a power source and ground under
the dash.  Being pos ground (and I want to keep it that way- no reason why,
other then I want it that way) as long as I keep the GPS unit or cell phone
charger/ phone fully isolated from any grounding source it will not be an
issue.  I plan to keep the power outlet under the dash probably on the parcel
shelve.

Wanted to get a second option on two things:  The positive would be the center
of the cig lighter jack(lack of a better term- nipple).  And the inline fuse
should go on the positive side and not the negative side, right?

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

"Rust is just natures way of saying- should have been a hole there".

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 08:49:41 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:49:41 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
	<CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry, have to disagree.  I know of no other culture on earth that would
consider it perfectly fine to produce baby formula made of melamine,
imitation cancer/heart medicines made of sugar, or kindergartens made of low
PSI concrete in an earthquake zone.

Any self respecting enterprise would not source brake components from China
unless they had absolute full QA/QC control on the shop floor.  Clearly Moss
did not do that.

Moss quality is improving, but they should not source brake parts from
anywhere except the OECD.

2011/9/15 Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>

> Why do the Chinese want to make things cheap?
> Not their fault but the fault of greedy (Western) consumers who do not want
> to part with their cash, thus killing proper manufacturers.
> You cannot blame the Chinese, blame yourselves.
> Kees Oudesluijs

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Thu Sep 15 08:53:33 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 07:53:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A46@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

Given the mode of failure for these parts, I think that Moss is going
"above and beyond" in this case and should be applauded.

The mode of failure is so unlikely, it borders on the absurd.

As to the "cheap chinese parts", lets move on.
	1.  This appears to be a design flaw
	2.  We live in a global economy, and without "Cheap Chinese
parts" it wouldn't be possible for the average hobbyist to keep there
car running
	3.  The Original parts weren't that great in the 1st place


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 15 08:57:48 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 07:57:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Moss Motors recall of Brake Master Cylinders
Message-ID: <1316098668.67034.YahooMailClassic@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good Day;  From another list, I have just received notice that Moss Motors has
issued a voluntary recall of Brake Master Cylinders under the brand name
Classic Gold that they had received and sold between March 1, 2010 and
February 1, 2011. 
 
You can check out the recall at:
ttp://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html?utm_source=Moss
Motors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall  
 
or   http://tinyurl.com/5t3z8xc
 
 
Regarding the Austin Healey, it applies to:
 
1.  Brake Master Cylinder for Austin Healey BN7, BT7, BJ7 (Cars without a
brake servo);

2.  Clutch Master Cylinder for Austin Healey BN4 from CE 48863, BN6, BN7, BT7,
BJ7, BJ8 without a brake servo; and
 
3.  Austin Healey 3000s (BN7, BT7, BJ7, BJ8) with power brakes
 
--Scott Morris;  Simcoe, Ontario, Canada           - Keep Smiling, Murphy
Lives

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 15 09:30:13 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 08:30:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
In-Reply-To: <BLU165-W4781047B7D4BE50FD23065C9070@phx.gbl>
References: <4E6F1357.2000101@chello.nl>, ,
	<20110913082342.QGBDB.89427.root@pamxwww04-z01>,
	<BLU165-W4781047B7D4BE50FD23065C9070@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL121-W59A440D3411760F261BE63A4070@phx.gbl>

If you use the tonneau cover, you might like the detachable belt that Moss
sells. The over the shoulder part can be threaded through the tonneau flap
covered slots very easily.
Richard Kahn

> From: coll44 at msn.com
> To: tomfelts at windstream.net
> Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 04:49:36 -0400
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
>
> Tom, Vicky Brits has them on pg 28 of the current catalog.  I've been
thinking
> of getting them and wonder if anyone here has any pros or cons on those
belts.
> Terry Coll  '64 BJ8
>  > Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 08:23:42 -0400
> > From: tomfelts at windstream.net
> > To: peter.svilans at rogers.com; coudesluijs at chello.nl
> > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat belts for a 100
> >
> > Good info Kees.  I only have the lap belts in my BJ8 and have often
thought
> of adding the over-the-shoulder types.  do you have any links to good
examples
> of them?  Also, where do you attach the added shoulder straps.  I assume on
> the two rear side bolts on either side of the jump seats?
> >
> > thanks
> > tom
> >
> > ---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> >
> > =============
> > Don't mess about with safety belts. If you don't drive the thing get no
> > or original spec belts for a trailer queen. If you do serious driving in
> > modern traffic get the best you can install and use new modern materials
> > and buckles. Best would be 5-point harness (track), second best 4-point
> > harness (track & road) and the minimum is a 3-point fixed (best) or
> > automatic reel (for comfort) belt.
> > The 3-point is the most practical solution for day to day driving
> >
> > Make very sure that the lap portion is positioned over the thighs/lower
> > part of the pelvis and that the top of the buckle is level with the seat
> > cushion just in front of the seat  back. A lap belt over the abdomen is
> > absolutely lethal in even smallish accidents, most certainly for the
> > persons that generally drive these cars: older and overweight men. It
> > will cause massive internal trauma.
> >
> > The guide or fixed point for the shoulder strap can be fitted on top of
> > the rear wheel well or somewhere near. The reel can be fitted
> > (vertically) somewhere below the shoulder strap guide. You may have to
> > weld a bracket for the reel on the rear wheel well. There are reels that
> > can be fitted directly at the shoulder strap fixing point
> >
> > If no fixing points are available originally you have to use steel
> > backing plates of around 2" x 3" and 0,15" thick. Use  grade 8 quality
> > 7/16" UNF bolts and nuts, the usual standard for safety belt bolts. You
> > can tack the nuts to the backing plates for easier fitting.
> >
> > Always check the position and orientation the reel has to be fitted in.
> > Some can be adjusted I believe.
> >
> > For the 4 and 5 point harnesses there are variations with a reel. In
> > these cases the 2 shoulder straps are joined and fixed to a single strap
> > on an automatic reel which is fitted straight behind the seat near or on
> > the rear deck. But you have to strengthen the area it is fixed to.
> >
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > NL
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
of
> coudesluijs.vcf]
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coll44 at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

From nelson_wd at msn.com  Thu Sep 15 09:34:49 2011
From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 10:34:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Insallation
Message-ID: <BLU161-W16A0EEDB34B3D2B1166F1B9C070@phx.gbl>

I am installing my headlamp buckets on my 59" 3000.  The buckets have three
brass colored receptacle with threads inside for the lamp adjusting screws and
threads outside (which I assume are for nuts to attach from the back side of
the fender to hold the bucket in place.  My issue is how are the rubber seals
installed.  it appears they go between the bucket and the outside of the
fender, however the seals have nodules into which the brass colored fittings
are inserted.  With the fitting inserted into the rubber nodule, then how do
you attach a nut to the outside threads.  Do I razor blade off the rubber
nodule (I did not use "tit" to describe that portion of the seal for gender
respect), put on the nut and then slip on the nodule over the brass fitting.
Thanks for any guidance.  bill

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep 15 10:20:46 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:20:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1982266061.698770.1316103646228.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

More to this story: 

http://triumphregister.lefora.com/2011/07/24/update-warning-moss-classic-gold-master-cylinders/ 

Looks like we lose (yet) another option. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl> 
To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com> 
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 7:39:12 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall 

Why do the Chinese want to make things cheap? 
Not their fault but the fault of greedy (Western) consumers who do not 
want to part with their cash, thus killing proper manufacturers. 
You cannot blame the Chinese, blame yourselves. 
Kees Oudesluijs 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 15 10:22:49 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 09:22:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <20110915094632.SMHER.106580.root@pamxwww09-z01>
References: <20110915094632.SMHER.106580.root@pamxwww09-z01>
Message-ID: <03FF6440-6E18-4FA7-BC29-5777F61EA180@sbcglobal.net>

So i guess we should also start slamming GM, Ford, Toyota, and every  
other auto manufacturer for the quality of their parts and tell them  
to go to the highest bidder for their parts. Since the most expensive  
supplier must make a better part.

Moss found a problem with a part and stopped selling it immediatly.  
They then contacted all those that purchased the cylinder. They are  
going to replace the cylinder and paying $75.00 labor plus $25.00 for  
the inconvienence.

Now yes there is a problem that they do not have the replacement  
cylinder at this time.

The other options there was a Girling Cylinder not available at this  
time.  You can sleeve the original cylinder and install a new kit.  
Both of these options are much more than the new $80.00 cylinder that  
Moss had which is the subject of the recall.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 15, 2011, at 6:46 AM, Tom Felts wrote:

> Try this link
>
> http://tinyurl.com/6gfsr3s
>  tom
>
> ---- Paul Barnes <fiat500f at aol.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> More Chinese parts problems.  Why not just make them right?
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html? 
> utm_source=Mos
> sMotors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall
>
> Paul B.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> tomfelts at windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 11:32:04 2011
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 13:32:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V5cV=B-5AF5QyuGjfNR06o+Msaq9RuUek7jPBffO5abWA@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have a recommendation for a source for rebuilding my gas gauge
and sending unit or should I just get new and if so from who?

TIA

Fred

From rd_parker at juno.com  Thu Sep 15 11:50:12 2011
From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 10:50:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
Message-ID: <20110915.105056.962.1778180@mailpop05.vgs.untd.com>

You guys that argue back about quality, cost, etc., etc., design flaws,
problems, OEM parts ad nauseum. Your arguements go on forever. The bottom
line is: He who can make the crappiest part and the reap the greatest
profit will always work that way, " put it in a box and ship it." Ethics
are out the door, it's all BS when it comes to quality; PROFIT is the
underlying motive, no matter who the manufacturer is and on which side of
the globe he makes it.  Sorry, but I have seen it all, and that is my
conclustion.  If people want to get better parts, stop buying CRAP
period. Ship it back and get a refund. If you car does not run, get the
part made right, or do it yourself, or let it sit until you find a
solution.  Do it right, or don't do it at all.  You want good parts? Stop
buying the junk period. And if you are one of the ones who manufactures
parts with known defects, shame on you, you get what you deserve.

Bob, Bellflower, CA. '61 Mark I. 
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 07:53:33 -0700 "Jonas Payne" <JPayne at ThorCon.net>
writes:
> Given the mode of failure for these parts, I think that Moss is 
> going
> "above and beyond" in this case and should be applauded.
> 
> The mode of failure is so unlikely, it borders on the absurd.
> 
> As to the "cheap chinese parts", lets move on.
>         1.  This appears to be a design flaw
>         2.  We live in a global economy, and without "Cheap Chinese
> parts" it wouldn't be possible for the average hobbyist to keep 
> there
> car running
>         3.  The Original parts weren't that great in the 1st place
> 
> 
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker at juno.com
> 
 

____________________________________________________________
Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat!
http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Thu Sep 15 12:07:48 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 11:07:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42><CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com><4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

As evidenced by the fact that the fellows in charge of the Melamine
incident were publicly executed, I think it's a safe bet that the
Chinese culture did not find it "perfectly fine".

I have a pile of crap parts made in Germany, Great Britain, Australia,
Mexico, Romania, Italy and the Good Ol' USA that have failed as well.

Anybody want to talk about fuel filler necks on Ford Pintos?  Self
immolating Lotus Esprits?  Volvo's explosive bumper shocks?

I don't mind a healthy discourse about parts, but lets leave racism and
cultural bias out of the equation.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 7:50 AM
To: Oudesluys
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall

Sorry, have to disagree.  I know of no other culture on earth that would
consider it perfectly fine to produce baby formula made of melamine,
imitation cancer/heart medicines made of sugar, or kindergartens made of
low PSI concrete in an earthquake zone.

Any self respecting enterprise would not source brake components from
China unless they had absolute full QA/QC control on the shop floor.
Clearly Moss did not do that.

Moss quality is improving, but they should not source brake parts from
anywhere except the OECD.

2011/9/15 Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>

> Why do the Chinese want to make things cheap?
> Not their fault but the fault of greedy (Western) consumers who do not

> want to part with their cash, thus killing proper manufacturers.
> You cannot blame the Chinese, blame yourselves.
> Kees Oudesluijs
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net

From frankyow_99 at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 15 12:11:26 2011
From: frankyow_99 at yahoo.com (frank yow)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 11:11:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] terrific forum
Message-ID: <1316110286.63770.YahooMailNeo@web161425.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Healey friends: I recently asked advice to deal with my car missing after about 30to 40 minutes, had done many things to find prob., a number o the forum members suggested dist. cap and or wires. Got both from BCS, installed, problem solved, sometimes the simplest solution is the best, this group is the best. Thanks to all who sent advice. Frank Yow, 62 BT7

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Thu Sep 15 14:30:48 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 12:30:48 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Moss_brake_recall_-_rant?=
Message-ID: <20110915203048.23572.qmail@hoster902.com>

I think referring to these parts as "junk" is over the top. I think Moss is making an honest effort to sell a high-quality part at a reasonable price. Given the issues, they're handling them correctly. How would any of us do it differently, other than to not manufacture and sell the part in the first place?

These comments about Chinese junk remind me of the same comments 40 years ago when Hondas, Yamahas, Sonys, Panasonics, etc were sweeping the competition before them. These problems get handled.

Have to say I think we're all damn lucky to have Moss, with all their faults. The parts do improve over time.

Excuse my rant.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 15 14:48:47 2011
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:48:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Insallation
In-Reply-To: <BLU161-W16A0EEDB34B3D2B1166F1B9C070@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU161-W16A0EEDB34B3D2B1166F1B9C070@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W634618CEBCF7F719A409B7C8070@phx.gbl>

Hi Bill,
Those "nodules" are positioning studs and have nothing to do with the threaded
studs that go through the fender holes.  Place the rubber gasket with one
rubber stud at the 12 o'clock position and another at the 9 o'clock for the
left light and 3 o'clock for the right light.  There should already be holes
in the fender and shroud surrounding the large light opening.  Dry fit your
bucket to the fender/shroud holes with the wires on the top of the bucket and
rotate the bucket until the threaded studs enter their respective holes,
remembering that the 12 o'clock hole is for the rubber gasket stud and the
wires need to come out at the upper area of the bucket.  The adjusters fit on
a totally different ring of the head light mechanism.  If you have a Moss
catalogue look at the blow up to see generally how the rings and gaskets are
set up.  I have a bj8 (single light) but I don't think there is much
difference in this area.  Wish I had a picture of this area on my car but I
don't although I do have a pre headlight installation picture which shows all
the holes surrounding the headlight hole which I will forward.  Hope this
helps.  It's really an easy installation once you figure out the orientation.

Good luck,

George Haywood
'65 bj8


> From: nelson_wd at msn.com
>> Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 10:34:49 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Insallation
>
> I am installing my headlamp buckets on my 59" 3000. The buckets have three
> brass colored receptacle with threads inside for the lamp adjusting screws
and
> threads outside (which I assume are for nuts to attach from the back side
of
> the fender to hold the bucket in place. My issue is how are the rubber
seals
> installed. it appears they go between the bucket and the outside of the
> fender, however the seals have nodules into which the brass colored
fittings
> are inserted. With the fitting inserted into the rubber nodule, then how do
> you attach a nut to the outside threads. Do I razor blade off the rubber
> nodule (I did not use "tit" to describe that portion of the seal for gender
> respect), put on the nut and then slip on the nodule over the brass
fitting.
> Thanks for any guidance. bill

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]

From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Thu Sep 15 14:56:10 2011
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas J. Morrione)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:56:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Moss Brake master Cylinder recall
Message-ID: <CA97DEA9.BD03%tjmorrio@colby.edu>

Chris  I'm echoing your sentiment. I'm restoring my 1964 BJ8 and just sent
back the "Gold" master cylinder that I received from Moss a couple of months
ago. They sent me an e-mail recall notice as well as a posted letter. The
replacement master cylinder came with "Lucas" in raised letters on the side
and and I'm pleased that they credited me with 75 dollars for labor and 25
dollars for postage. The "Lucas" cylinder has a small sticker on it that
says "Taiwan." Welcome to the global world.

I have more respect for Moss in that they owned up to the situation quickly
and dealt with it effectively  at least in my case, this time.

Tom

From rfinucane at aol.com  Thu Sep 15 14:57:42 2011
From: rfinucane at aol.com (Robert Finucane)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:57:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Missing
Message-ID: <8CE42013EF850EF-1B84-7C34@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com>

Frank, I too found my Healey missing for 30 to 40 minutes. Found it had rolled
down the driveway onto my neighbors lawn. It started right up and has
performed wonderfully ever since!
 Bob BJ-8 25809

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Sep 15 15:05:37 2011
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:05:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.ontheneto
	ffice.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
	<CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <201109151405275.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

At 01:07 PM 9/15/2011, Jonas Payne wrote:

>Jonas Payne
>PBR
====
Jonas, I have to ask.....  what is PBR?     I sell their brake parts, 
I drink their beer on occasion, do you ride bulls?

Seriously

Peter C. 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Sep 15 15:11:28 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 17:11:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Installation
In-Reply-To: <BLU161-W16A0EEDB34B3D2B1166F1B9C070@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU161-W16A0EEDB34B3D2B1166F1B9C070@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003f01cc73ec$08e2d020$1aa87060$@net>

Hello Bill,

Your '59 3000 will take the earlier 3 adjuster headlamp buckets as you
describe. However, the brass adjuster bodies that will be located at 12, 3
and 9 o'clock do not have threads on their exterior, but they have a series
of serrations on their outer diameter. These are to hold a press-on plastic
protector sleeve with a blind end to protect the inner thread and adjuster
screw from getting dirty. The very early 3 adjuster bucket had 3 red plastic
sleeves over these adjusters. Later ones (like yours) will have black
plastic protector sleeves.
Also it sounds like you have incorrect headlamp rubber gaskets. The 3
adjuster gasket has 3 simple open through holes about 3/8" diameter for the
3 adjuster bodies and plastic sleeves to fit through. The later 2 adjuster
buckets use a different much more slender adjuster that fits within the
rubber spigot you are finding  on your bucket gaskets.
The buckets and their rubber gaskets fasten to the car with 4 Phillips 10-32
thread machine screws, these pass through 4 holes situated roughly at 2, 4,
8 and 10 o'clock. There are small flat washers and special brass acorn nuts
(readily available from all the usual suppliers) to fasten the 4 screws into
place on the wing and shroud.
I am including a picture that shows the brass acorn mounting nuts. This also
shows 3 black adjuster caps, but please note that the wiring harness
arrangement is that of a BN1, and should not be followed for your 3000.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of W.D. Nelson
Sent: 2011-09-15 11:35
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Insallation

I am installing my headlamp buckets on my 59" 3000.  The buckets have three
brass colored receptacle with threads inside for the lamp adjusting screws
and
threads outside (which I assume are for nuts to attach from the back side of
the fender to hold the bucket in place.  My issue is how are the rubber
seals
installed.  it appears they go between the bucket and the outside of the
fender, however the seals have nodules into which the brass colored fittings
are inserted.  With the fitting inserted into the rubber nodule, then how do
you attach a nut to the outside threads.  Do I razor blade off the rubber
nodule (I did not use "tit" to describe that portion of the seal for gender
respect), put on the nut and then slip on the nodule over the brass fitting.
Thanks for any guidance.  bill
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of April 06 pics 015.jpg]

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Thu Sep 15 15:21:02 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 14:21:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <201109151405275.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
	<CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<201109151405275.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A59@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

By day, I run preconstruction and estimating for a national construction
company.

On nights and weekends, I run a very small licensed shop (Payne British
Restorations - PBR) from which I slowly restore and work on British cars
for myself and a few clients.

It occurred to me that I was one of the younger guys fiddling with
antique british stuff, so I started it 2 years ago to partially offset
the cost of the hobby.   I'm working and learning in the hopes to make
it my second career in about 10 years or so.



Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Caldwell [mailto:peter at nosimport.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:06 PM
To: Jonas Payne; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall

At 01:07 PM 9/15/2011, Jonas Payne wrote:

>Jonas Payne
>PBR
====
Jonas, I have to ask.....  what is PBR?     I sell their brake parts,
I drink their beer on occasion, do you ride bulls?

Seriously

Peter C.

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Sep 15 15:33:26 2011
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:33:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A59@otnoex3.ontheneto
	ffice.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
	<CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<201109151405275.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A59@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <201109151433962.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Ah....  Thanks!    If you ever need parts, let me know.
     Peter
==
At 04:21 PM 9/15/2011, Jonas Payne wrote:
>By day, I run preconstruction and estimating for a national construction
>company.
>
>On nights and weekends, I run a very small licensed shop (Payne British
>Restorations - PBR) from which I slowly restore and work on British cars
>for myself and a few clients.
>
>It occurred to me that I was one of the younger guys fiddling with
>antique british stuff, so I started it 2 years ago to partially offset
>the cost of the hobby.   I'm working and learning in the hopes to make
>it my second career in about 10 years or so.
>
>
>
>Jonas Payne
>Director of Preconstruction
>Thor Construction
>PH:    (702) 269-2007
>Fax:   (702) 269-7095
>Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Caldwell [mailto:peter at nosimport.com]
>Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:06 PM
>To: Jonas Payne; Healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
>
>At 01:07 PM 9/15/2011, Jonas Payne wrote:
>
> >Jonas Payne
> >PBR
>====
>Jonas, I have to ask.....  what is PBR?     I sell their brake parts,
>I drink their beer on occasion, do you ride bulls?
>
>Seriously
>
>Peter C.
>
>
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3898 - Release Date: 09/15/11

From nelson_wd at msn.com  Thu Sep 15 15:38:18 2011
From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:38:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Installation
In-Reply-To: <003f01cc73ec$08e2d020$1aa87060$@net>
References: <BLU161-W16A0EEDB34B3D2B1166F1B9C070@phx.gbl>,
	<003f01cc73ec$08e2d020$1aa87060$@net>
Message-ID: <BLU161-W544225D995D01E4D113D769C070@phx.gbl>

Rich:  Thanks very much for the photo and the information.  I was aware I had
the incorrect seals but thought the three adjuster series had the similar
protector sleeves.  My misunderstanding came from the thought that those
serrations were threads.  I am good to go and will install one this evening.
Thanks,  bill n


> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: nelson_wd at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Installation
> Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 17:11:28 -0400
>
> Hello Bill,
>
> Your '59 3000 will take the earlier 3 adjuster headlamp buckets as you
> describe. However, the brass adjuster bodies that will be located at 12, 3
> and 9 o'clock do not have threads on their exterior, but they have a series
> of serrations on their outer diameter. These are to hold a press-on plastic
> protector sleeve with a blind end to protect the inner thread and adjuster
> screw from getting dirty. The very early 3 adjuster bucket had 3 red
plastic
> sleeves over these adjusters. Later ones (like yours) will have black
> plastic protector sleeves.
> Also it sounds like you have incorrect headlamp rubber gaskets. The 3
> adjuster gasket has 3 simple open through holes about 3/8" diameter for the
> 3 adjuster bodies and plastic sleeves to fit through. The later 2 adjuster
> buckets use a different much more slender adjuster that fits within the
> rubber spigot you are finding on your bucket gaskets.
> The buckets and their rubber gaskets fasten to the car with 4 Phillips
10-32
> thread machine screws, these pass through 4 holes situated roughly at 2, 4,
> 8 and 10 o'clock. There are small flat washers and special brass acorn nuts
> (readily available from all the usual suppliers) to fasten the 4 screws
into
> place on the wing and shroud.
> I am including a picture that shows the brass acorn mounting nuts. This
also
> shows 3 black adjuster caps, but please note that the wiring harness
> arrangement is that of a BN1, and should not be followed for your 3000.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of W.D. Nelson
> Sent: 2011-09-15 11:35
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Insallation
>
> I am installing my headlamp buckets on my 59" 3000. The buckets have three
> brass colored receptacle with threads inside for the lamp adjusting screws
> and
> threads outside (which I assume are for nuts to attach from the back side
of
> the fender to hold the bucket in place. My issue is how are the rubber
> seals
> installed. it appears they go between the bucket and the outside of the
> fender, however the seals have nodules into which the brass colored
fittings
> are inserted. With the fitting inserted into the rubber nodule, then how do
> you attach a nut to the outside threads. Do I razor blade off the rubber
> nodule (I did not use "tit" to describe that portion of the seal for gender
> respect), put on the nut and then slip on the nodule over the brass
fitting.
> Thanks for any guidance. bill
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From mikecallison at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 16:32:28 2011
From: mikecallison at gmail.com (Mike Callison)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:32:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts
Message-ID: <CAJUzrsCRTJUZ4DmJb=PXxmpFQ=bdtr+=-nKMpk0+MM52Xbhfig@mail.gmail.com>

I bought the 3 point belt for my 66 BJ8 from Moss motors.  I am pleased with
the quality.  What I did discover later  that it doesn't fit the two bolts
on the sides next to the back seat.  Healey Surgeons sells a nice chrome
adapter that allows you to install the belt without modification.  You can
find them on the web at Healeysurgeons.com.  They also carry the seat belt.
As far as comfort.  The shoulder harness wants to slip off the shoulder and
only stays in place if you really tighten the belts down really snug.

Good Luck.

Mike
66 BJ8

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Thu Sep 15 16:53:36 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 00:53:36 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] aux power in pos. ground car
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-W45004FAE996889D6FEEAADD4070@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-W45004FAE996889D6FEEAADD4070@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E7281F0.5060406@bredband.net>

Hi
Well, in theory it doesn't really matter which one you put the fuse on. 
But.... in this case you will connect the center of the jack to ground 
(somewhere near the jack I suppuse) and the outer ring will be connected 
to power from the battery. So you should put the fuse on that, because 
that is where the fault can happen, like the cable is rubbed against 
some metal part of the car that damage the insulation of the cable.

Per in Sweden

S and T Miller skrev 2011-09-15 16:44:
> I found a nice 3M automotive twin (can do two cars) power cord (#03873na) that
> Wal-mart sells for about $6.00.  It is fully insulated with a plastic end cap.
> I plan to cut the cig lighter plug from the end and attach bullet connectors
> and a inline fuse.  I am going to plug into a power source and ground under
> the dash.  Being pos ground (and I want to keep it that way- no reason why,
> other then I want it that way) as long as I keep the GPS unit or cell phone
> charger/ phone fully isolated from any grounding source it will not be an
> issue.  I plan to keep the power outlet under the dash probably on the parcel
> shelve.
>
> Wanted to get a second option on two things:  The positive would be the center
> of the cig lighter jack(lack of a better term- nipple).  And the inline fuse
> should go on the positive side and not the negative side, right?
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
> "Rust is just natures way of saying- should have been a hole there".
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3898 - Release Date: 09/15/11

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Sep 15 16:55:15 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:55:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Missing
Message-ID: <1a430f1b.19b03.1326f4d17f4.Webtop.48@charter.net>

If your mother in law was in the car would you have abandoned it?


On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 1:57 PM, Robert Finucane wrote:

> Frank, I too found my Healey missing for 30 to 40 minutes. Found it 
> had rolled
> down the driveway onto my neighbors lawn. It started right up and has
> performed wonderfully ever since!
>  Bob BJ-8 25809
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 16:56:06 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 15:56:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
	<CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-Tq5GturR5GGaQbVXnEMTiCrLE6hchqf1z5rAZH1FBHHyA@mail.gmail.com>

??? Explosive bumper shocks?  Say what?  Admittedly I only have about 25
years working on Volvos but I have never heard of this.
Rick

On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 11:07 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:

>  Volvo's explosive bumper shocks?
>
> I don't mind a healthy discourse about parts, but lets leave racism and
> cultural bias out of the equation.

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Sep 15 17:08:16 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:08:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] terrific forum
Message-ID: <6d2ea531.19d57.1326f58ffd4.Webtop.48@charter.net>

Frank,

No financial interest just experience from many thousands of Healey 
touring miles. Always carry a spare prewired dist cap.  Always use NOS 
original Lucas rotors (can you say hen's teeth?).  Or get red ones from 
Jeff at Advanced Distributor (about 15$/pair).

Glad your back on the road at full speed.

Tracy


On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 11:11 AM, frank yow wrote:

> Healey friends: I recently asked advice to deal with my car missing 
> after about 30to 40 minutes, had done many things to find prob., a 
> number o the forum members suggested dist. cap and or wires. Got both 
> from BCS, installed, problem solved, sometimes the simplest solution 
> is the best, this group is the best. Thanks to all who sent advice. 
> Frank Yow, 62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Sep 15 17:16:02 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:16:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] aux power in pos. ground car
Message-ID: <1108679a.19eb0.1326f601d6f.Webtop.48@charter.net>

In your case yes.  Center tit must be positive, outer surround negative. 
Keep the outer part away from anything exposed and connected to your 
chassis (positive ground) lest let out much bad harness melting smoke.


On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 7:44 AM, S and T Miller wrote:

> I found a nice 3M automotive twin (can do two cars) power cord 
> (#03873na) that
> Wal-mart sells for about $6.00.  It is fully insulated with a plastic 
> end cap.
> I plan to cut the cig lighter plug from the end and attach bullet 
> connectors
> and a inline fuse.  I am going to plug into a power source and ground 
> under
> the dash.  Being pos ground (and I want to keep it that way- no reason 
> why,
> other then I want it that way) as long as I keep the GPS unit or cell 
> phone
> charger/ phone fully isolated from any grounding source it will not be 
> an
> issue.  I plan to keep the power outlet under the dash probably on the 
> parcel
> shelve.
>
> Wanted to get a second option on two things:  The positive would be 
> the center
> of the cig lighter jack(lack of a better term- nipple).  And the 
> inline fuse
> should go on the positive side and not the negative side, right?
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a 
> test
> drive."
>
> "Rust is just natures way of saying- should have been a hole there".
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 15 17:39:02 2011
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:39:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Installation
In-Reply-To: <003f01cc73ec$08e2d020$1aa87060$@net>
References: <BLU161-W16A0EEDB34B3D2B1166F1B9C070@phx.gbl>,
	<003f01cc73ec$08e2d020$1aa87060$@net>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W9DE307D21B314F5F40606C8070@phx.gbl>

Thanks Rich for correcting my errors.  It was so long ago that I installed my
headlights I forgot those details.

George



> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: nelson_wd at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 17:11:28 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Installation
> i
> Hello Bill,
>
> Your '59 3000 will take the earlier 3 adjuster headlamp buckets as you
> describe. However, the brass adjuster bodies that will be located at 12, 3
> and 9 o'clock do not have threads on their exterior, but they have a series
> of serrations on their outer diameter. These are to hold a press-on plastic
> protector sleeve with a blind end to protect the inner thread and adjuster
> screw from getting dirty. The very early 3 adjuster bucket had 3 red
plastic
> sleeves over these adjusters. Later ones (like yours) will have black
> plastic protector sleeves.
> Also it sounds like you have incorrect headlamp rubber gaskets. The 3
> adjuster gasket has 3 simple open through holes about 3/8" diameter for the
> 3 adjuster bodies and plastic sleeves to fit through. The later 2 adjuster
> buckets use a different much more slender adjuster that fits within the
> rubber spigot you are finding on your bucket gaskets.
> The buckets and their rubber gaskets fasten to the car with 4 Phillips
10-32
> thread machine screws, these pass through 4 holes situated roughly at 2, 4,
> 8 and 10 o'clock. There are small flat washers and special brass acorn nuts
> (readily available from all the usual suppliers) to fasten the 4 screws
into
> place on the wing and shroud.
> I am including a picture that shows the brass acorn mounting nuts. This
also
> shows 3 black adjuster caps, but please note that the wiring harness
> arrangement is that of a BN1, and should not be followed for your 3000.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of W.D. Nelson
> Sent: 2011-09-15 11:35
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Headlamp Bucket Insallation
>
> I am installing my headlamp buckets on my 59" 3000. The buckets have three
> brass colored receptacle with threads inside for the lamp adjusting screws
> and
> threads outside (which I assume are for nuts to attach from the back side
of
> the fender to hold the bucket in place. My issue is how are the rubber
> seals
> installed. it appears they go between the bucket and the outside of the
> fender, however the seals have nodules into which the brass colored
fittings
> are inserted. With the fitting inserted into the rubber nodule, then how do
> you attach a nut to the outside threads. Do I razor blade off the rubber
> nodule (I did not use "tit" to describe that portion of the seal for gender
> respect), put on the nut and then slip on the nodule over the brass
fitting.
> Thanks for any guidance. bill
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
April 06 pics 015.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/haywoodone at hotmail.com

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 17:45:23 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:45:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-fGyX9vf=BESowd4eTHfRfnoCgwROU0CeTEqaEoMqdHBQ@mail.gmail.com>

Seems Moss misses something. I can understand the cost of  "incoming
inspection," but any supplier, especially one that sells parts critical to
safety, should be testing samples from lots before they go on sale. The
factory should be testing as they manufacture, Who was it that said "Trust,
but verify." That goes double in manufacturing.

My first High School summer job was at Motorola in their incoming inspection
department. We tested a statistical sample of incoming components used in
their products. As a Product Manger of terminals for Teletype Corp., a
sample of all our products underwent inspection before being shipped. We
knew that zero defects was a myth, but still had a reputation to uphold so
we increased the statistical sample of our product beyond industry
standards..

Someone is not doing their job.

Jack

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 15 19:42:06 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 21:42:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Repair business, was  Moss brake recall
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42><CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com><4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl><CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com><744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com><201109151405275.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A59@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <001201cc7411$d7dc5930$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Don't quit your day job.
Keep it as a hobby and help your friends out for an agreeable fee.
Seems like every one is jumping on the car repair business thanks to all the 
internet help available now.
Theres a video for every car  repair these days.

Take a look at our monthly car mags.  Each month there's a new business
card listed, advertising a repair business.  With in a year you don't see 
those cards anymore.  There just isn't enough of these cars in one area to 
make a reasonable living anymore.   And a lot of repairs are being done by 
the local club get togethers just for the cost of the parts.

Just my 2 cents, not trying to kill anyones dream.
Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jonas Payne" <JPayne at ThorCon.net>
To: "Peter Caldwell" <peter at nosimport.com>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall


> By day, I run preconstruction and estimating for a national construction
> company.
>
> On nights and weekends, I run a very small licensed shop (Payne British
> Restorations - PBR) from which I slowly restore and work on British cars
> for myself and a few clients.
>
> It occurred to me that I was one of the younger guys fiddling with
> antique british stuff, so I started it 2 years ago to partially offset
> the cost of the hobby.   I'm working and learning in the hopes to make
> it my second career in about 10 years or so.
>
>>PBR
> ====
> Jonas, I have to ask.....  what is PBR?     I sell their brake parts,
> I drink their beer on occasion, do you ride bulls?
>
> Seriously
>
> Peter C.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 20:10:44 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 12:10:44 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-fGyX9vf=BESowd4eTHfRfnoCgwROU0CeTEqaEoMqdHBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-fGyX9vf=BESowd4eTHfRfnoCgwROU0CeTEqaEoMqdHBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47DAD27B-AD48-4DEF-BD0B-6BBE9080D3CF@gmail.com>

Did anyone actually read the reason for the recall????
<quote>
Foot valve failures were experienced during the extreme pressure test
at 3,000 psi and after 10,000 cycles at 248B: F during a heat
durability test. The pressures and temperatures used in the tests far
exceed the pressure and temperatures you would experience with the
master cylinder installed in a car, but the failure of a foot valve is
serious because it closes off the port to the brake fluid reservoir
when you step on the brake pedal. If the foot valve fails to close,
the pedal will go to the floor without putting any pressure on the
brake shoes or pads.
</quote>

Sent from my iPhone

On 16/09/2011, at 9:45 AM, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:

> Seems Moss misses something. I can understand the cost of  "incoming
> inspection," but any supplier, especially one that sells parts
> critical to
> safety, should be testing samples from lots before they go on sale.
> The
> factory should be testing as they manufacture, Who was it that said
> "Trust,
> but verify." That goes double in manufacturing.
>
> My first High School summer job was at Motorola in their incoming
> inspection
> department. We tested a statistical sample of incoming components
> used in
> their products. As a Product Manger of terminals for Teletype Corp., a
> sample of all our products underwent inspection before being
> shipped. We
> knew that zero defects was a myth, but still had a reputation to
> uphold so
> we increased the statistical sample of our product beyond industry
> standards..
>
> Someone is not doing their job.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Thu Sep 15 20:15:14 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:15:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Repair business, was  Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <001201cc7411$d7dc5930$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42><CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com><4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl><CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com><744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com><201109151405275.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A59@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<001201cc7411$d7dc5930$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A63@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

10 year plan - if I believed there was any money to be made at it, I
would have done it already........  Even in a crap economy, I do OK in
construction.

Frankly, I enjoy wrenching and restoring, and if I can offset a part of
my own costs, I'm happy.




Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark LaPierre [mailto:lapierrem at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 6:42 PM
To: Jonas Payne; Peter Caldwell; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Repair business, was Moss brake recall

Don't quit your day job.
Keep it as a hobby and help your friends out for an agreeable fee.
Seems like every one is jumping on the car repair business thanks to all
the internet help available now.
Theres a video for every car  repair these days.

Take a look at our monthly car mags.  Each month there's a new business
card listed, advertising a repair business.  With in a year you don't
see those cards anymore.  There just isn't enough of these cars in one
area to
make a reasonable living anymore.   And a lot of repairs are being done
by
the local club get togethers just for the cost of the parts.

Just my 2 cents, not trying to kill anyones dream.
Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonas Payne" <JPayne at ThorCon.net>
To: "Peter Caldwell" <peter at nosimport.com>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall


> By day, I run preconstruction and estimating for a national
construction
> company.
>
> On nights and weekends, I run a very small licensed shop (Payne
British
> Restorations - PBR) from which I slowly restore and work on British
cars
> for myself and a few clients.
>
> It occurred to me that I was one of the younger guys fiddling with
> antique british stuff, so I started it 2 years ago to partially offset
> the cost of the hobby.   I'm working and learning in the hopes to make
> it my second career in about 10 years or so.
>
>>PBR
> ====
> Jonas, I have to ask.....  what is PBR?     I sell their brake parts,
> I drink their beer on occasion, do you ride bulls?
>
> Seriously
>
> Peter C.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep 15 20:59:06 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:59:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-fGyX9vf=BESowd4eTHfRfnoCgwROU0CeTEqaEoMqdHBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-fGyX9vf=BESowd4eTHfRfnoCgwROU0CeTEqaEoMqdHBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E72BB7A.5060800@comcast.net>

re: "Who was it that said "Trust, but verify."

Ronald Reagan, I believe (stakes were higher, too).

Bob


On 9/15/2011 4:45 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
> Seems Moss misses something. I can understand the cost of  "incoming
> inspection," but any supplier, especially one that sells parts critical to
> safety, should be testing samples from lots before they go on sale. The
> factory should be testing as they manufacture, Who was it that said "Trust,
> but verify." That goes double in manufacturing.
>
> My first High School summer job was at Motorola in their incoming inspection
> department. We tested a statistical sample of incoming components used in
> their products. As a Product Manger of terminals for Teletype Corp., a
> sample of all our products underwent inspection before being shipped. We
> knew that zero defects was a myth, but still had a reputation to uphold so
> we increased the statistical sample of our product beyond industry
> standards..
>
> Someone is not doing their job.
>
> Jack
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Sep 15 21:13:23 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 03:13:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?parts?=
Message-ID: <20110916031323.11780.qmail@server278.com>

i recently pulled the transmission on the bn6 to fix an oil leak.  while checking it over i discovered the clutch release bearing was totally gone. another few miles and i would have been metal to metal.  i have no idea how this happened as the ring on the pressure plate was shiny and smooth.  since i have less than 1500 miles on the car and i do not ride the clutch it is a mystery.  i do not know where the bearing was made or where i bought it, but that is the first time i have seen something like this.  anyone have any guesses as to what happened and how to prevent it from happening again?   hjim

From fiat500f at aol.com  Thu Sep 15 23:10:21 2011
From: fiat500f at aol.com (Paul Barnes)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 01:10:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall - rant
Message-ID: <FC6B609347BC488AB8282A4B6CEDB882@deepthought42>

- "Have to say I think we're all damn lucky to have Moss, with all their
faults."

I have to say that I think that your statement is the heart of the problem.
I would think that Moss would agree with your statement, and consequently,
can make parts of any quality it likes (as Classic Gold IS Moss) and we, the
British car hobbyists, are "just damn lucky to have them".  No, we are not.
Moss makes/sells MANY poor quality parts, I've seen them myself.  But since
they have nice catalogues, they are the easiest to buy from.  They are not
the stockists of the best quality parts, and they seem to be becoming less
and less knowledgeable about the parts they sell, regardless of what they
say in THEIR British Motoring magazine.  To me, and I guess this has always
been true, the best quality parts are carried by various shops, depending on
the part.   However, I think it comes down to the part sellers.  There are
certain parts shops/sellers that actually know the cars, know the parts, and
won't sell the crap parts.  We all can name a few.
But, y'know, I have to think along the lines of, just how hard IS it to
RE-manufacture a brake master cylinder?  I mean, get an original cylinder,
then copy it.  If it's being made in China, or wherever, it's just 'here,
copy this exactly", then you check it when you get the cylinder.  Not the
same?  Get someone else to do it.  It's reverse engineering in it's simplest
form.  I'm of the opinion that there is no excuse for the brake master
cylinder manufacturing problem at Moss.  Moss knows how to get stuff made,
they know about checking prototypes, they know about lot testing, they know
going for super low cost manufacturing gets them crap parts (Moss Healey
bumpers anyone?).  Moss is not a bunch of amateurs, I think they knew
exactly what they were doing and got exactly what they asked for.
Having recently bought a 1960 Mini, and having gotten about 85% wrong or
junk parts from them in my first 3-4 orders, and now the brake thing, well,
I think I'm pretty well done with them.  At least, at this point, I can't
think of a single reason to continue with them.  My two pence.
 - Paul B.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall - rant


>I think referring to these parts as "junk" is over the top. I think Moss is
>making an honest effort to sell a high-quality part at a reasonable price.
>Given the issues, they're handling them correctly. How would any of us do
>it differently, other than to not manufacture and sell the part in the
>first place?
>
> These comments about Chinese junk remind me of the same comments 40 years
> ago when Hondas, Yamahas, Sonys, Panasonics, etc were sweeping the
> competition before them. These problems get handled.
>
> Have to say I think we're all damn lucky to have Moss, with all their
> faults. The parts do improve over time.
>
> Excuse my rant.
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena, CA
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fiat500f at aol.com

From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Thu Sep 15 23:43:25 2011
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 17:43:25 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <201109151433962.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42><CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com><4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl><CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com><744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com><201109151405275.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com><744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A59@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<201109151433962.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <9ABBA9B7201C47D7ABF07FEDDAB1E669@IBMD038403EC0B>

Gentlemen,
Down here in New Zealand and Australia we know PBR as Paton's Brake
Replacements.  I've used their products on my cars for years.

http://www.pbr.com.au/technical/documents/HYDRAULICBRAKESYSTEMSGUIDE.p
df

Cheers
Mark Donaldson
Auckland. NZ

----------------------------------------------------------------------
--

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Caldwell [mailto:peter at nosimport.com] 
Sent: Friday, 16 September 2011 9:33 a.m.
To: Jonas Payne; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall

Ah....  Thanks!    If you ever need parts, let me know.
     Peter
==
At 04:21 PM 9/15/2011, Jonas Payne wrote:
>By day, I run preconstruction and estimating for a national
construction
>company.
>
>On nights and weekends, I run a very small licensed shop (Payne
British
>Restorations - PBR) from which I slowly restore and work on British
cars
>for myself and a few clients.
>
>It occurred to me that I was one of the younger guys fiddling with
>antique british stuff, so I started it 2 years ago to partially
offset
>the cost of the hobby.   I'm working and learning in the hopes to
make
>it my second career in about 10 years or so.
>
>
>
>Jonas Payne
>Director of Preconstruction
>Thor Construction
>PH:    (702) 269-2007
>Fax:   (702) 269-7095
>Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Caldwell [mailto:peter at nosimport.com]
>Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:06 PM
>To: Jonas Payne; Healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
>
>At 01:07 PM 9/15/2011, Jonas Payne wrote:
>
> >Jonas Payne
> >PBR
>====
>Jonas, I have to ask.....  what is PBR?     I sell their brake parts,
>I drink their beer on occasion, do you ride bulls?
>
>Seriously
>
>Peter C.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 23:59:22 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:59:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <4E72BB7A.5060800@comcast.net>
References: <CAGhWe-fGyX9vf=BESowd4eTHfRfnoCgwROU0CeTEqaEoMqdHBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E72BB7A.5060800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CB3168A-FB33-4B57-AD30-F24A007406C6@gmail.com>

The motto of a quality control person is:  Trust everybody but always cut the
cards.


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 15, 2011, at 19:59, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "Who was it that said "Trust, but verify."
>
> Ronald Reagan, I believe (stakes were higher, too).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 9/15/2011 4:45 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
>> Seems Moss misses something. I can understand the cost of  "incoming
>> inspection," but any supplier, especially one that sells parts critical to
>> safety, should be testing samples from lots before they go on sale. The
>> factory should be testing as they manufacture, Who was it that said
"Trust,
>> but verify." That goes double in manufacturing.
>>
>> My first High School summer job was at Motorola in their incoming
inspection
>> department. We tested a statistical sample of incoming components used in
>> their products. As a Product Manger of terminals for Teletype Corp., a
>> sample of all our products underwent inspection before being shipped. We
>> knew that zero defects was a myth, but still had a reputation to uphold so
>> we increased the statistical sample of our product beyond industry
>> standards..
>>
>> Someone is not doing their job.
>>
>> Jack
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From dnewman2 at pacbell.net  Fri Sep 16 00:27:20 2011
From: dnewman2 at pacbell.net (Don Newman)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 23:27:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <4E72BB7A.5060800@comcast.net>
References: <CAGhWe-fGyX9vf=BESowd4eTHfRfnoCgwROU0CeTEqaEoMqdHBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E72BB7A.5060800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACj+LpM/4nlCqGRevY3tNxvCgAAAEAAAAFHLh6pIPapPpexTnCxuuX0BAAAAAA==@pacbell.net>

You got it on both counts.

Den

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 7:59 PM
To: Jack Feldman
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall

re: "Who was it that said "Trust, but verify."

Ronald Reagan, I believe (stakes were higher, too).

Bob


On 9/15/2011 4:45 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
> Seems Moss misses something. I can understand the cost of  "incoming 
> inspection," but any supplier, especially one that sells parts 
> critical to safety, should be testing samples from lots before they go 
> on sale. The factory should be testing as they manufacture, Who was it 
> that said "Trust, but verify." That goes double in manufacturing.
>
> My first High School summer job was at Motorola in their incoming 
> inspection department. We tested a statistical sample of incoming 
> components used in their products. As a Product Manger of terminals 
> for Teletype Corp., a sample of all our products underwent inspection 
> before being shipped. We knew that zero defects was a myth, but still 
> had a reputation to uphold so we increased the statistical sample of 
> our product beyond industry standards..
>
> Someone is not doing their job.
>
> Jack
>
>


--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dnewman2 at pacbell.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep 16 08:10:42 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 07:10:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42><CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com><4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <4E7358E2.5070903@comcast.net>

Alan has unique perspective on Chinese culture.  I'm with him on this.

Yes, every country/culture produces crap.  And, it's a fine line between 'cultural bias' and informed observation.  In 
general, I believe the following:

- Germans over-engineer pretty much everything (one of the reasons they lost WWII; good/best hardware, couldn't build 
enough of it)
- British build brilliant but quirky stuff (Jag D-Type, Merlin engines, Austin-Healeys)
- Japanese started out as cheap imitators but an obsession with quality--inspired by an American rejected by his own 
'culture'--let them to the head of the pack (they've come back a little lately)
- Italians good at style
- Americans good at building lots of decent 'middle-of-pack' and occasionally extraordinary stuff (SR-71 tops the list)
- French are French

Chinese are at the 'cheap imitator' stage; remains to be seen if they move past it.  Should be interesting.

I googled, but couldn't find the country of manufacture for the 'Classic Gold' products.  Do we know for sure they were 
made in China?

Bob



On 9/15/2011 11:07 AM, Jonas Payne wrote:
> As evidenced by the fact that the fellows in charge of the Melamine
> incident were publicly executed, I think it's a safe bet that the
> Chinese culture did not find it "perfectly fine".
>
> I have a pile of crap parts made in Germany, Great Britain, Australia,
> Mexico, Romania, Italy and the Good Ol' USA that have failed as well.
>
> Anybody want to talk about fuel filler necks on Ford Pintos?  Self
> immolating Lotus Esprits?  Volvo's explosive bumper shocks?
>
> I don't mind a healthy discourse about parts, but lets leave racism and
> cultural bias out of the equation.
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
>
> Sorry, have to disagree.  I know of no other culture on earth that would
> consider it perfectly fine to produce baby formula made of melamine,
> imitation cancer/heart medicines made of sugar, or kindergartens made of
> low PSI concrete in an earthquake zone.
>
> Any self respecting enterprise would not source brake components from
> China unless they had absolute full QA/QC control on the shop floor.
> Clearly Moss did not do that.
>
> Moss quality is improving, but they should not source brake parts from
> anywhere except the OECD.
>
> 2011/9/15 Oudesluys<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
>
>> Why do the Chinese want to make things cheap?
>> Not their fault but the fault of greedy (Western) consumers who do not
>> want to part with their cash, thus killing proper manufacturers.
>> You cannot blame the Chinese, blame yourselves.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Sep 16 08:21:59 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 10:21:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Bonnet for sale
Message-ID: <20110916102159.KYZ77.118986.root@pamxwww03-z01>

Before I put it on EBay, wanted to see if anyone here has an interest.

Excellent condition--no rust.  has the bonnet latches and prop rod.

Contact me off list if interested.

tom

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 16 08:39:42 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 22:39:42 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
	<CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E720E10.5050601@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkK1N8HjHrWrq2esLmz-bXKGsVK093pGfF4b+3FjcTFiYw@mail.gmail.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18A52@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL7U-=VJxBmGNJE+FHtagxa4VeFDixWTqqSFAO__oWpGw@mail.gmail.com>

Jonas -

Normally I would let it slide, but as a person of notable Chinese heritage
and also living, working and investing in China I believe I have a right to
answer a charge of racism.  The cultural norm that exists in the PROC is not
a traditional Chinese culture but a norm that is the ultimate result of
several decades of personality cult worship.

Intentionally poisoning, harming or killing hundreds of thousands of
children to make a profit would never have happened in the more traditional
Chinese cultures that still exist in Taiwan, Vietnam, Philippines, Hong Kong
or Singapore, so it's not a racial point that's being made.  Yes the
Taiwanese used to make crappy parts also, but not at the expense of
someone's life as I can ever recall.

Chinese parents throughout China, to this day, mail order imported
baby formula from Hong Kong because the issue and the problem is lingering.
 There are still enough people on the street in the PROC that think it's
perfectly ok to kill people with their product if it means making a profit,
and the milk powder problem has not gone away.

They publicly executed two mid level milk processors, but the rest of the
people involved with the sale and packaging of melamine in the supply chain
have been ignored, especially the well connected ones... and rather
shockingly have thrown a grandfather of
a victim in prison simply because he was investigating the matter
"too publicly."

The problems you mention with Ford/Volvo etc., are engineering design
faults which were discovered to be flawed after the product was in use,
and later fixed.  This is much different than a contractor that knowingly
builds a kindergarten in an earthquake zone with inferior concrete
which does not meet the government's specified standards for concrete - all
to save a few thousand dollars.  Of course building something that would
later kill thousands of children didn't even merit a second thought by the
builders, inspectors or officials involved in the practice.

If you have your own trusted inspector in the factory checking
the metallurgy, machining, metal treatment, and basic design features of the
brake component, then sourcing brake parts from China is fine, otherwise I
would not do it.

Kudos to Moss for doing the recall, shame on Moss for sourcing
brake components from China because it's cheaper to do so.

Alan

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Sep 16 09:09:26 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 01:09:26 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACj+LpM/4nlCqGRevY3tNxvCgAAAEAAAAFHLh6pIPapPpexTnCxuuX0BAAAAAA==@pacbell.net>
References: <CAGhWe-fGyX9vf=BESowd4eTHfRfnoCgwROU0CeTEqaEoMqdHBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E72BB7A.5060800@comcast.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACj+LpM/4nlCqGRevY3tNxvCgAAAEAAAAFHLh6pIPapPpexTnCxuuX0BAAAAAA==@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <A6573435-B986-4363-9F81-6DD66C4A0372@gmail.com>

Geez. You guys are so ready to chuck shit at Moss.
Read the document.
10,000 cycles at 3,000 psi. At what temperature?? In a Master Cylinder??
Maybe you need to understand that the front brake caliper seals in a  
front running race Healey 3000 with standard bj8 type discs need to be  
replaced after 50 laps. They MELT! The outer dust seals are toast  
after 5 or 10 laps.
Doesn't make a difference who makes them, it's a compound limitation.  
It's temperature at the caliper. Where the real temperature is.
That test - 10,000 cycles, At 3,000 psi. At just under the boiling  
point of wet DOT 3 fluid, was IN THE MASTER CYLINDER!
Try and achieve that temperature in your master cylinder in a road car.
You guys are dreaming.
Yep.
Read the release.
Everyone is entiltled to an opinion.
My advice? At least read the document presented.
And I'd at least understand brake temperature issues on a Healey  
before I bagged someone. Or a supplier.
Just my opinion.
Never bought anything from Moss, no financial interest, yaddah yaddah.
But based on this disclosure, I personally think they are the type of  
supplier I think we need in the game.
Even for you guys who don't understand anything about your car.
Seriously. WTF.
If you think I'm over reacting, then pull out your master cylinder,  
and give it to a testing house and put YOUR master cylinder through  
the same test.
I'd bet yours fails too.
Go on. Test it. At 3,000 PSI.
Read the document.
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

On 16/09/2011, at 4:27 PM, "Don Newman" <dnewman2 at pacbell.net> wrote:

> You got it on both counts.
>
> Den
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 7:59 PM
> To: Jack Feldman
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
>
> re: "Who was it that said "Trust, but verify."
>
> Ronald Reagan, I believe (stakes were higher, too).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 9/15/2011 4:45 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
>> Seems Moss misses something. I can understand the cost of  "incoming
>> inspection," but any supplier, especially one that sells parts
>> critical to safety, should be testing samples from lots before they  
>> go
>> on sale. The factory should be testing as they manufacture, Who was  
>> it
>> that said "Trust, but verify." That goes double in manufacturing.
>>
>> My first High School summer job was at Motorola in their incoming
>> inspection department. We tested a statistical sample of incoming
>> components used in their products. As a Product Manger of terminals
>> for Teletype Corp., a sample of all our products underwent inspection
>> before being shipped. We knew that zero defects was a myth, but still
>> had a reputation to uphold so we increased the statistical sample of
>> our product beyond industry standards..
>>
>> Someone is not doing their job.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 16 09:18:55 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 23:18:55 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] aux power in pos. ground car
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-W45004FAE996889D6FEEAADD4070@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-W45004FAE996889D6FEEAADD4070@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+XPrhM-J9ByRoTkXgWr=b81mj=FERcAFXt+mfL9e3oEg@mail.gmail.com>

The safer thing to do would be to put a small inverter in your car (creates
a 24 V potential) then you can use the same ground.  Much safer this way.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/230672490898?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y

Since you don't plan to run a high powered radio, this converter will work
very well.

Alan

On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 10:44 PM, S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>wrote:

> I found a nice 3M automotive twin (can do two cars) power cord (#03873na)
> that
> Wal-mart sells for about $6.00.  It is fully insulated with a plastic end
> cap.
> I plan to cut the cig lighter plug from the end and attach bullet
> connectors
> and a inline fuse.  I am going to plug into a power source and ground under
> the dash.  Being pos ground (and I want to keep it that way- no reason why,
> other then I want it that way) as long as I keep the GPS unit or cell phone
> charger/ phone fully isolated from any grounding source it will not be an
> issue.  I plan to keep the power outlet under the dash probably on the
> parcel
> shelve.
>
> Wanted to get a second option on two things:  The positive would be the
> center
> of the cig lighter jack(lack of a better term- nipple).  And the inline
> fuse
> should go on the positive side and not the negative side, right?
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
> "Rust is just natures way of saying- should have been a hole there".
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep 16 09:30:36 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 15:30:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <A6573435-B986-4363-9F81-6DD66C4A0372@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1123105001.746368.1316187036052.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Uh, just for the record--since my off-topic reply got mixed into this--I'm a (mostly) satisfied Moss customer. 

I also posted the link to the TR site where the Moss guy said pretty much the same thing Chris just did. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Geez. You guys are so ready to chuck shit at Moss. 
Read the document. 
10,000 cycles at 3,000 psi. At what temperature?? In a Master Cylinder?? 
Maybe you need to understand that the front brake caliper seals in a 
front running race Healey 3000 with standard bj8 type discs need to be 
replaced after 50 laps. They MELT! The outer dust seals are toast 
after 5 or 10 laps. 
Doesn't make a difference who makes them, it's a compound limitation. 
It's temperature at the caliper. Where the real temperature is. 
That test - 10,000 cycles, At 3,000 psi. At just under the boiling 
point of wet DOT 3 fluid, was IN THE MASTER CYLINDER! 
Try and achieve that temperature in your master cylinder in a road car. 
You guys are dreaming. 
Yep. 
Read the release. 
Everyone is entiltled to an opinion. 
My advice? At least read the document presented. 
And I'd at least understand brake temperature issues on a Healey 
before I bagged someone. Or a supplier. 
Just my opinion. 
Never bought anything from Moss, no financial interest, yaddah yaddah. 
But based on this disclosure, I personally think they are the type of 
supplier I think we need in the game. 
Even for you guys who don't understand anything about your car. 
Seriously. WTF. 
If you think I'm over reacting, then pull out your master cylinder, 
and give it to a testing house and put YOUR master cylinder through 
the same test. 
I'd bet yours fails too. 
Go on. Test it. At 3,000 PSI. 
Read the document. 
Chris 


Sent from my iPhone 

On 16/09/2011, at 4:27 PM, "Don Newman" <dnewman2 at pacbell.net> wrote: 

> You got it on both counts. 
> 
> Den 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell 
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 7:59 PM 
> To: Jack Feldman 
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss brake recall 
> 
> re: "Who was it that said "Trust, but verify." 
> 
> Ronald Reagan, I believe (stakes were higher, too). 
> 
> Bob 
> 
> 
> On 9/15/2011 4:45 PM, Jack Feldman wrote: 
>> Seems Moss misses something. I can understand the cost of "incoming 
>> inspection," but any supplier, especially one that sells parts 
>> critical to safety, should be testing samples from lots before they 
>> go 
>> on sale. The factory should be testing as they manufacture, Who was 
>> it 
>> that said "Trust, but verify." That goes double in manufacturing. 
>> 
>> My first High School summer job was at Motorola in their incoming 
>> inspection department. We tested a statistical sample of incoming 
>> components used in their products. As a Product Manger of terminals 
>> for Teletype Corp., a sample of all our products underwent inspection 
>> before being shipped. We knew that zero defects was a myth, but still 
>> had a reputation to uphold so we increased the statistical sample of 
>> our product beyond industry standards.. 
>> 
>> Someone is not doing their job. 

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Fri Sep 16 13:21:40 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 14:21:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-fvMvcHRSUCVJsYhuk8dR+hdQrevAFnLB+5eRurHKz3Mw@mail.gmail.com>

No need to re-engineer a product. I don't know how many drawings the
Heritage Motor Trust has, but I'll bet they have most of them, even for
small parts. That's how they re manufactured the MG body shell. But I don't
think Moss really cares about authenticity.

Way back in 1959 when I bought my Bugeye, mirrors were a dealer option. They
were one of several options I added. The dealer mounted them on the wings,
over the front axle, no doubt following BMC instructions. They also were
convex. I learned that the convex mirror showed me a great view of what was
behind me on both sides. Even better, I didn't have to turn my head away
from the road in front of me to see the mirrors as I do on a car with door
mounted mirrors.

When I got a car I would buy the convex mirrors and have them mounted over
the front axle. My BT7 came with flat mirrors so I order a pair of convex
ones, but for some reason the I didn't get the view I expected. I checked
them against my other cars and found that the convex portion was incorrect.
I called Moss got a runaround, and eventually my complaint was ignored.

Back again to my previous job as Product Manager. Every part has a drawing
with dimensions. The arc of the convex mirror was specified. Moss didn't
care if the arc was correct, just that they had a part to sell in the
catalog. In effect, they were welling an inferior product with the buyer
beware sight on it.

Since I attach a wide mirror to the existing mirror of my cars I don't need
the mirror on the right. I took a proper right hand mirror from another car
and swapped it for the left on the Healey.

There are a number of other vendors out there. We don't need to buy from
Moss. Since these other vendors are individuals rather than a company, they
care about what they sell. Even when I buy Moss parts I don't buy them from
Moss, but through LBC. Jeff cares about his customers.

Jack

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 16 13:52:49 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 12:52:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss recall
Message-ID: <COL121-W6201C866E74C693C044D82A4060@phx.gbl>

Moss did a good thing, no question. I'm just curious what event drove them to
make the decision to recall. Did something happen at "normal driving pressure
and temperature" that led to the dissecting of the master cylinder? I
purchased a master cylinder on Ebay earlier this year and I'm not sure who
made it. It did not say "Lucas"  or "Classic Gold" as some have mentioned. I
would like to be able to identify the part before I install it. Since I don't
race or ride the brakes I will not experience the heat and pressure mentioned.
If they had one that failed under normal use that triggered this event, then I
will be concerned.
Richard Kahn

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Sep 16 14:09:14 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 13:09:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake recall
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2F02AC8684554534ACB85894B71FEFFC@deepthought42>
	<CAFBXTkJZm2qcUUF1QyzCY7jvuK6NUuZZFMbRKt7hZ7u_iD1JVQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_FFgEb=baPFYKhcjNLbnWhTtRxj1O5cW9r_C92XPhwpg@mail.gmail.com>

Alan,
I was with you up to the Ford Into comments. The Ford been counters decided
it was cheaper to pay out death claims, rather then spend $10.00 a car to
fix the problem. That point was documented when the scandal unfolded.

On Sep 15, 2011 6:23 AM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
> Why on earth would you want to make brake parts correctly, when you can
make
> them oh so much cheaper. They're just brakes, it doesn't matter.
>
> By the way, I have some really cheap baby formula to sell you. It's really
> cheap!
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Paul Barnes <fiat500f at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> More Chinese parts problems. Why not just make them right?
>>
>>
>>
http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html?utm_source=Mos
>> sMotors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall
>>
>> Paul B.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com

From tonup at tellink.net  Fri Sep 16 14:53:24 2011
From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 16:53:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts (throw out bearing)
Message-ID: <4EC2F620083D45ABAF767A65ECF869F2@FrankPC>

I think there was a modern replacement available when I replaced the one on my
MGB many years ago.  It might be worth searching to find a bearing that has
moving parts as opposed to the graphite type.

Hope this helps,
Frank

From csooch1 at aol.com  Fri Sep 16 15:30:21 2011
From: csooch1 at aol.com (csooch1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 17:30:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Value of a distributor
Message-ID: <8CE42CEF8BAB124-22B8-1696D@webmail-m049.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Folks,

Perhaps you can help me.  I have a few parts that I no longer need and was
wondering if you could give me an idea of what to ask for them?

DM6A distributor for 6 cyl
Distributor tach drive assy
Intake manifold 6-port for 1 7/8" carbs
Rear exhaust manifold for 6 cyl

Cheers,
Chris

From rplindsay at comcast.net  Fri Sep 16 18:02:01 2011
From: rplindsay at comcast.net (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 19:02:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts
Message-ID: <9CD4CA39-7AE3-4CA7-86E1-012045DB4E37@comcast.net>

List - I ordered and received three point belts from Moss. What I received is
different than the photos in the on line catalog - the plastic cover for the
upper anchor and the adjuster were missing. I'm not too concerned about the
plastic cover but what do I do with the excess webbing once I adjust the
shoulder belt?  I presumed the adjuster held the excess. Any suggestions?

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep 16 18:17:31 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 17:17:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Parts (throw out bearing)
In-Reply-To: <4EC2F620083D45ABAF767A65ECF869F2@FrankPC>
References: <4EC2F620083D45ABAF767A65ECF869F2@FrankPC>
Message-ID: <4E73E71B.4080803@comcast.net>

I'm wondering if the clutch hydraulics were holding pressure on the bearing?

Or, maybe there's a bad batch of graphite bearings out there.

Bob

On 9/16/2011 1:53 PM, Frank wrote:
> I think there was a modern replacement available when I replaced the one on my
> MGB many years ago.  It might be worth searching to find a bearing that has
> moving parts as opposed to the graphite type.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Frank
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From mrfinespanner at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 16 21:32:19 2011
From: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net (Mr. Finespanner)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 20:32:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake cylinder recall
Message-ID: <91587EC78DBA4282A0558E6EABBB0358@ElComputero>

Pegasus still offers genuine Girling master cylinders and that has
been my choice even before this Wal-Moss recall.  You will likely
need to swap over your old push rod to the new cylinder, but that's
certainly easy enough.  If your old push rod has an elongated hole
you just cut off the bad end, run some threads down the shaft, and
screw on a new clevis (available from McMaster for $5 - $7) with
a jam nut like a BJ8 brake master push rod arrangement.  Now you have a new 
rod that lets you adjust pedal height, and Robert is your
father's brother.

What I can't understand is why Wal-Moss can't offer real Girling
when Pegasus can.  Why not provide the real thing, whenever
possible, for those who are willing to pay the higher cost, and
have a second line of bargain-priced Asian stuff for those with
more limited fundage?  They already do that to a certain extent in
the catalog, but it could be much expanded.  With the bucks some
of the cars have been selling for these days it's obvious that at least
a few folks have deep pockets and don't mind spending.  I am not well versed 
in matters of big business and finance, but it seems to me that if a company 
like Moss started buying from a geniune supplier, like Girling, then the 
genuine supplier would be less inclined to discontinue production of those 
bits.  That's just my opinion; I could be wrong.

regards,
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

From dwflagg at juno.com  Fri Sep 16 20:10:49 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 22:10:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts
Message-ID: <20110916.191111.19010.602489@mailpop03.dca.untd.com>

Send it back!! That is the only way they will know they have a problem
and that you are not satisfied.
 
> List - I ordered and received three point belts from Moss. What I 
> received is
> different than the photos in the on line catalog - the plastic cover 
> for the
> upper anchor and the adjuster were missing. I'm not too concerned 
> about the
> plastic cover but what do I do with the excess webbing once I adjust 
> the
> shoulder belt?  I presumed the adjuster held the excess. Any 
> suggestions?
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e7401e934e684f1368st05duc

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Fri Sep 16 20:49:42 2011
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 22:49:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] B/U fuel pump question
Message-ID: <016A344AEC984BCCA33FEB17F90D7E6E@atc0f226cd3237>

Has anyone any experience with a backup fuel pump that could be mounted at 
the carburetter feed point?

The reason I ask is that a friend who runs a British car shop nearby says 
one of the small pumps can be installed at the fuel line where it feeds the 
float chambers.

Will a low pressure Facet (or similar) pump pull all the way from the petrol 
tank, and through the SU as well?

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 16 22:03:07 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 12:03:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake cylinder recall
In-Reply-To: <91587EC78DBA4282A0558E6EABBB0358@ElComputero>
References: <91587EC78DBA4282A0558E6EABBB0358@ElComputero>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLzeDuCy2=f9gg78nWuVysHovMWZdqpoj+jBiyG8vJ-vg@mail.gmail.com>

Doug -

Been trying to call you and email you for a month.   What's the best
way to contact you?

Sorry to put this through the list but I think your spam blocker is
blocking pretty much everything.  Yes, I am putting "brake lines" in
the subject line.... It doesn't get through.

Sorry to everyone else!

Thanks,

Alan

On 9/17/11, Mr. Finespanner <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Pegasus still offers genuine Girling master cylinders and that has
> been my choice even before this Wal-Moss recall.  You will likely
> need to swap over your old push rod to the new cylinder, but that's
> certainly easy enough.  If your old push rod has an elongated hole
> you just cut off the bad end, run some threads down the shaft, and
> screw on a new clevis (available from McMaster for $5 - $7) with
> a jam nut like a BJ8 brake master push rod arrangement.  Now you have a new
> rod that lets you adjust pedal height, and Robert is your
> father's brother.
>
> What I can't understand is why Wal-Moss can't offer real Girling
> when Pegasus can.  Why not provide the real thing, whenever
> possible, for those who are willing to pay the higher cost, and
> have a second line of bargain-priced Asian stuff for those with
> more limited fundage?  They already do that to a certain extent in
> the catalog, but it could be much expanded.  With the bucks some
> of the cars have been selling for these days it's obvious that at least
> a few folks have deep pockets and don't mind spending.  I am not well versed
> in matters of big business and finance, but it seems to me that if a company
> like Moss started buying from a geniune supplier, like Girling, then the
> genuine supplier would be less inclined to discontinue production of those
> bits.  That's just my opinion; I could be wrong.
>
> regards,
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 17 01:30:31 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 02:30:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] B/U fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <016A344AEC984BCCA33FEB17F90D7E6E@atc0f226cd3237>
References: <016A344AEC984BCCA33FEB17F90D7E6E@atc0f226cd3237>
Message-ID: <4E744C97.6030804@justbrits.com>

<< Has anyone any experience with a backup fuel pump that could be 
mounted at the carburetter feed point? >>

UNfortunately, yes Alex.  When one has a shop, one gets ALL kinds
of "odd" things in the door to make lots of 'found' money <G> !

<< The reason I ask is that a friend who runs a British car shop nearby 
says one of the small pumps can be installed at the fuel line where it 
feeds the float chambers. >>

Yep, can be done.  But let me ask you something;  if it was such a
"good" idea, don't you think you would see LOTS of LBCs set up
that way [and from the Factory, at that] ?!? 

<< Will a low pressure Facet (or similar) pump pull all the way from the 
petrol tank, and through the SU as well? >>

Another "Yep"  !!  BUT the 'pump' has to be a "puller" type, NOT
a "pusher" as most stock arrangements are.

NAPA would prolly have to order, if they can get.

Ed

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Sep 17 02:46:50 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 10:46:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake cylinder recall
In-Reply-To: <91587EC78DBA4282A0558E6EABBB0358@ElComputero>
References: <91587EC78DBA4282A0558E6EABBB0358@ElComputero>
Message-ID: <4E745E7A.6010802@chello.nl>

The Girling parts nowadays are probably NOS or also made in China, 
Taiwan, India, Malaysia, Philippines etc. under the Girling name.
Girling has gone out of bussiness a long time ago and was renamed 
several times (amongst others as Lucas) and now operates under TRW, a 
USA based firm with production plants in many countries all over the world.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Sep 17 06:26:01 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 08:26:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts applications
Message-ID: <000601cc7534$f685e120$e391a360$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
Can anyone tell me the model application for exhaust manifolds, AEC 2050 and
AEC 2051 [BJ7/BJ8 parts numbers are different]?
 
Engine front side cover/generator bracket AEC 689 [BJ7 uses this, but BJ8s
use a different number].  Any other models use it?
 
Front brake caliper, P/N DA 17500 [not in BJ7/BJ8 parts manual].
 
Distributor housing with mechanical tach drive, P/N AEC 685 [BJ7].  Do other
models use this, too?
 
Thanks for the help!
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Sat Sep 17 08:02:04 2011
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 10:02:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] B/U fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <016A344AEC984BCCA33FEB17F90D7E6E@atc0f226cd3237>
References: <016A344AEC984BCCA33FEB17F90D7E6E@atc0f226cd3237>
Message-ID: <000f01cc7542$61a69460$24f3bd20$@mindspring.com>

It probably would work ok in cool weather when the car is moving with enough
speed to ensure lots of outside air is getting into the engine compartment.
But, if your car is like most, the heat in the engine compartment would
easily make the fuel lines to the pump susceptible to vapor lock.   When
that happens the "suck" part of the pump (trying to draw fuel from the tank)
would become challenged.   (Talk to anyone who owned an early 240Z car... )
The Healey folk were quite wise when they placed the fuel pump in the back
where things were cooler.   Vapor lock in a line downstream from the pump
doesn't affect the pump's prime, so it will continue applying pressure that
can blow the vapor lock (should it occur) through the lines.   "sucking on
vapors" isn't very effective.

My recommendation is pass on recommendations from your friend.

-skip-
BJ8, BJ7 

-----Original Message-----

Has anyone any experience with a backup fuel pump that could be mounted at
the carburetter feed point?

The reason I ask is that a friend who runs a British car shop nearby says
one of the small pumps can be installed at the fuel line where it feeds the
float chambers.

Will a low pressure Facet (or similar) pump pull all the way from the petrol
tank, and through the SU as well?

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Sep 17 08:14:48 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 14:14:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Moss brake cylinder recall
In-Reply-To: <91587EC78DBA4282A0558E6EABBB0358@ElComputero>
Message-ID: <20110917141449.BT4D2.25816.root@hrndva-web28-z02>

Good point Doug The Roadster Factory and British Parts Northwest (for those not familiar I would describe them as middle sized parts houses compared to Moss) both offer a lot of items in lower and higher quality.
Greg Lemon

---- "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net> wrote: 
> Pegasus still offers genuine Girling master cylinders and that has
> been my choice even before this Wal-Moss recall.  You will likely
> need to swap over your old push rod to the new cylinder, but that's
> certainly easy enough.  If your old push rod has an elongated hole
> you just cut off the bad end, run some threads down the shaft, and
> screw on a new clevis (available from McMaster for $5 - $7) with
> a jam nut like a BJ8 brake master push rod arrangement.  Now you have a new 
> rod that lets you adjust pedal height, and Robert is your
> father's brother.
> 
> What I can't understand is why Wal-Moss can't offer real Girling
> when Pegasus can.  Why not provide the real thing, whenever
> possible, for those who are willing to pay the higher cost, and
> have a second line of bargain-priced Asian stuff for those with
> more limited fundage?  They already do that to a certain extent in
> the catalog, but it could be much expanded.  With the bucks some
> of the cars have been selling for these days it's obvious that at least
> a few folks have deep pockets and don't mind spending.  I am not well versed 
> in matters of big business and finance, but it seems to me that if a company 
> like Moss started buying from a geniune supplier, like Girling, then the 
> genuine supplier would be less inclined to discontinue production of those 
> bits.  That's just my opinion; I could be wrong.
> 
> regards,
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com

From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Sep 17 09:15:00 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 11:15:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
Message-ID: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>

A friend purchased a Healey 6 cylinder head at a swap meet recently. It has
AEC721 cast into it. My BJ8 head has AEC960 cast into it. Interestingly, the
Denis Welch aluminum cylinder head has AEC721 cast into it. How many different
6 cylinder heads were fitted to the big Healeys & what were the differences
between them?  Is there any reason you know for Denis Welch using the AEC721
for the basis of their aluminum head? I did notice that the boss for the water
temperature sensor is much more accessible (I.E. getting a wrench on the nut)
on the AEC721 vs. the AEC960 which raises the question why did the factory
change the design?
Gary Hodson

From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Sep 17 09:46:58 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 11:46:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Parts applications
In-Reply-To: <000601cc7534$f685e120$e391a360$@rr.com>
References: <000601cc7534$f685e120$e391a360$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CE43682AAA96F2-223C-31A91@webmail-d133.sysops.aol.com>

Pretty sure the manifolds are for a tri carb engine. Can't find my books to
check the other numbers.
Aloha
Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 17, 2011 10:16 am
Subject: [Healeys] Parts applications


Hello, Healeyphiles -

an anyone tell me the model application for exhaust manifolds, AEC 2050 and
EC 2051 [BJ7/BJ8 parts numbers are different]?

ngine front side cover/generator bracket AEC 689 [BJ7 uses this, but BJ8s
se a different number].  Any other models use it?

ront brake caliper, P/N DA 17500 [not in BJ7/BJ8 parts manual].

istributor housing with mechanical tach drive, P/N AEC 685 [BJ7].  Do other
odels use this, too?

hanks for the help!

teve Byers
BJ8L/36666
J8 Registry
avelock, NC  USA
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Sep 17 10:30:07 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 10:30:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] B/U fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <000f01cc7542$61a69460$24f3bd20$@mindspring.com>
References: <016A344AEC984BCCA33FEB17F90D7E6E@atc0f226cd3237>
	<000f01cc7542$61a69460$24f3bd20$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <6C750DA3F9954D299A3D92B83B3A4C62@oscar>

...or find one of the Datsun fuel rail cooling fans.. it would work well for
Healey float bowls with heat issues..
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Skip Saunders
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 8:02 AM
To: 'Alex'; Healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] B/U fuel pump question

It probably would work ok in cool weather when the car is moving with enough
speed to ensure lots of outside air is getting into the engine compartment.
But, if your car is like most, the heat in the engine compartment would
easily make the fuel lines to the pump susceptible to vapor lock.   When
that happens the "suck" part of the pump (trying to draw fuel from the tank)
would become challenged.   (Talk to anyone who owned an early 240Z car... )
The Healey folk were quite wise when they placed the fuel pump in the back
where things were cooler.   Vapor lock in a line downstream from the pump
doesn't affect the pump's prime, so it will continue applying pressure that
can blow the vapor lock (should it occur) through the lines.   "sucking on
vapors" isn't very effective.

My recommendation is pass on recommendations from your friend.

-skip-
BJ8, BJ7 

-----Original Message-----

Has anyone any experience with a backup fuel pump that could be mounted at
the carburetter feed point?

The reason I ask is that a friend who runs a British car shop nearby says
one of the small pumps can be installed at the fuel line where it feeds the
float chambers.

Will a low pressure Facet (or similar) pump pull all the way from the petrol
tank, and through the SU as well?
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Sat Sep 17 14:02:29 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 15:02:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Parts applications
In-Reply-To: <000601cc7534$f685e120$e391a360$@rr.com>
References: <000601cc7534$f685e120$e391a360$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <005101cc7574$bd0f62a0$372e27e0$@qwest.net>

Steve
Manifolds are for BN7/BT7 tri carb
AEC 689 and AEC 685 are listed in the BN7/BT7 parts book
Caliper
>From my BT7 tri carb
RH
Mounting side of caliper DA18303, T64325233
OTHER HALF DA18305, T64325237 
LH
Mounting side of caliper DA183XX, XX=NUMBERS MACHINED OFF FOR MOUNTING EAR,
T64325232
OTHER HALF DA18304, T64325236
I suspect the caliper # are casting # as they do not appear in the parts
book.

Herb Miller



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 7:26 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Parts applications

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
Can anyone tell me the model application for exhaust manifolds, AEC 2050 and
AEC 2051 [BJ7/BJ8 parts numbers are different]?
 
Engine front side cover/generator bracket AEC 689 [BJ7 uses this, but BJ8s
use a different number].  Any other models use it?
 
Front brake caliper, P/N DA 17500 [not in BJ7/BJ8 parts manual].
 
Distributor housing with mechanical tach drive, P/N AEC 685 [BJ7].  Do other
models use this, too?
 
Thanks for the help!
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3901 - Release Date: 09/16/11

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Sat Sep 17 14:03:46 2011
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 13:03:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge
Message-ID: <D1BFEF1E18AC46B1BB6EB3BC8F64B360@FRED>

I have a problem with the gas gauge or the gas level sensor in the tank in my
BN7 MK2.  The gauge reads Full all the time, no matter how much is in the tank
unless I really stand on the accelerator, and then the gauge drops to 1/4 and
then comes back to full.  The gauge was rebuilt by Mo-Ma in 2005, and the
sensor has never been rebuilt or replaced.   Is there an easy way to check the
tank sensor?  John Snyder, Port Townsend, WA

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Sep 17 14:32:28 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 16:32:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts applications
In-Reply-To: <005101cc7574$bd0f62a0$372e27e0$@qwest.net>
References: <000601cc7534$f685e120$e391a360$@rr.com>
	<005101cc7574$bd0f62a0$372e27e0$@qwest.net>
Message-ID: <002b01cc7578$eb53e150$c1fba3f0$@rr.com>

Thanks very much Herb!  That will do it.  I needed a response from someone
with a parts book different from BJ7/BJ8.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Herbert Miller [mailto:hgmiller3 at qwest.net] 
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 4:02 PM
To: 'BJ8 Healeys'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Parts applications

Steve
Manifolds are for BN7/BT7 tri carb
AEC 689 and AEC 685 are listed in the BN7/BT7 parts book
Caliper
>From my BT7 tri carb
RH
Mounting side of caliper DA18303, T64325233
OTHER HALF DA18305, T64325237 
LH
Mounting side of caliper DA183XX, XX=NUMBERS MACHINED OFF FOR MOUNTING EAR,
T64325232
OTHER HALF DA18304, T64325236
I suspect the caliper # are casting # as they do not appear in the parts
book.

Herb Miller

From bce257 at yahoo.co.nz  Sat Sep 17 16:46:05 2011
From: bce257 at yahoo.co.nz (Andrew Thorp)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 15:46:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN4 muffler
Message-ID: <1316299565.82610.YahooMailClassic@web160309.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Does anyone have an original BN4 single-outlet muffler in any condition they'd
part with? I'd like to open one up and copy/remake it for my car.

Andy.

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Sep 17 17:34:30 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 19:34:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts applications
In-Reply-To: <002b01cc7578$eb53e150$c1fba3f0$@rr.com>
References: <000601cc7534$f685e120$e391a360$@rr.com>
	<005101cc7574$bd0f62a0$372e27e0$@qwest.net>
	<002b01cc7578$eb53e150$c1fba3f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <006101cc7592$59454a50$0bcfdef0$@verizon.net>

According to my original parts book AKD855 Third Edition dated  July 1962
for a BN6, Part number AEC 689   is described and pictured as
"Cover for cylinder side (front)". Part number AEC685 is described and
pictured as "Housing for distributor and tachometer" So, to answer your
original question, they are used on a BN6.


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 4:32 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: kkbcrb at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts applications

Thanks very much Herb!  That will do it.  I needed a response from someone
with a parts book different from BJ7/BJ8.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Herbert Miller [mailto:hgmiller3 at qwest.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 4:02 PM
To: 'BJ8 Healeys'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Parts applications

Steve

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Sep 17 17:39:32 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 19:39:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge
In-Reply-To: <D1BFEF1E18AC46B1BB6EB3BC8F64B360@FRED>
References: <D1BFEF1E18AC46B1BB6EB3BC8F64B360@FRED>
Message-ID: <006201cc7593$0d6fe120$284fa360$@verizon.net>

Not to start a flame war, but my gauge works when it damn well feels like it
-- not when I want it to work. I use the method devised by a lister some
time ago in which I ran the tank empty, poured in a gallon, stuck a wooden
rod down, marked it with a notch where it was wet, added another gallon,
marked it, etc. etc, until the tank was full. After a long drive, I measure
the gallons left in the tank and this tells me how much longer I have before
I have to fill up. Hasn't failed me yet but the gauge sure does look nice on
my dash.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Snyder
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 4:04 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge

I have a problem with the gas gauge or the gas level sensor in the tank in
my
BN7 MK2.  The gauge reads Full all the time, no matter how much is in the
tank unless I really stand on the accelerator, and then the gauge drops to
1/4 and then comes back to full.  The gauge was rebuilt by Mo-Ma in 2005,
and the
sensor has never been rebuilt or replaced.   Is there an easy way to check
the
tank sensor?  John Snyder, Port Townsend, WA
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sat Sep 17 18:49:56 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 10:49:56 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6DF0A4A0-E384-4C1F-83B2-1794DB37EB67@gmail.com>

Hey Gary,
Factory alloy heads are all based on the AEC721 - the original 12 port  
head - casting. Even Joe Armors BJ8 based 1965 Sebring car has a  
factory alloy head based on the earlier AEC721 casting, not the later  
3000 AEC960 casting.
Denis Welch wanted his head accepted by the FIA - it had to be a  
replica of the factory alloy head. Hence AEC721
All the AEC 960 heads i have seen are wrongly machined. See
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/aec960-healey-cylinder-head.html
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

On 18/09/2011, at 1:15 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:

> A friend purchased a Healey 6 cylinder head at a swap meet recently.  
> It has
> AEC721 cast into it. My BJ8 head has AEC960 cast into it.  
> Interestingly, the
> Denis Welch aluminum cylinder head has AEC721 cast into it. How many  
> different
> 6 cylinder heads were fitted to the big Healeys & what were the  
> differences
> between them?  Is there any reason you know for Denis Welch using  
> the AEC721
> for the basis of their aluminum head? I did notice that the boss for  
> the water
> temperature sensor is much more accessible (I.E. getting a wrench on  
> the nut)
> on the AEC721 vs. the AEC960 which raises the question why did the  
> factory
> change the design?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Sat Sep 17 19:13:11 2011
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 21:13:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge
References: <D1BFEF1E18AC46B1BB6EB3BC8F64B360@FRED>
Message-ID: <AA47D80FBA304C1EAE35880BF8B38B27@atc0f226cd3237>

John, the easiest way to check the sensor is to remove it from the tank, but 
leave it electrically connected. Be sure to attach a clip lead in order to 
ground it appropriately. Turn on the battery power. Avoid sparking.

Then, move the swing arm and watch your gauge. It should move through its 
complete mechanical travel from Full to Empty.

You can also use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the variable 
resistance element (the sensor is called a rheostat or potentiometer). Turn 
off the battery when you do this, and disconnect the lead going into the 
harness. Measure across the element using your ohmmeter. You will have to 
research the resistance value of the sensor; perhaps someone on the 
reflector knows the correct resistance value. I seem to recall 90 ohms.  In 
any case, as you swing the float arm, you will see the resistance value 
change on your ohmmeter, from near zero to perhaps 90 ohms or so.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Snyder" <helyjohn at cablespeed.com>
To: "Healey List" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 4:03 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge


>I have a problem with the gas gauge or the gas level sensor in the tank in 
>my
> BN7 MK2.  The gauge reads Full all the time, no matter how much is in the 
> tank
> unless I really stand on the accelerator, and then the gauge drops to 1/4 
> and
> then comes back to full.  The gauge was rebuilt by Mo-Ma in 2005, and the
> sensor has never been rebuilt or replaced.   Is there an easy way to check 
> the
> tank sensor?  John Snyder, Port Townsend, WA

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Sep 17 19:13:29 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 21:13:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge
In-Reply-To: <D1BFEF1E18AC46B1BB6EB3BC8F64B360@FRED>
References: <D1BFEF1E18AC46B1BB6EB3BC8F64B360@FRED>
Message-ID: <003c01cc75a0$2d2aab50$878001f0$@rr.com>

John, pull off the green wire with black tracer from the T terminal of the
gauge.  With a full tank, you should measure 95 to 107 ohms between that
wire and ground.  With an empty tank, it should read 3.5 - 3.9 ohms.  Those
figures are nominal, so if your measurements are fairly close to those your
sending unit should be O.K.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Snyder
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2011 4:04 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge

I have a problem with the gas gauge or the gas level sensor in the tank in
my
BN7 MK2.  The gauge reads Full all the time, no matter how much is in the
tank
unless I really stand on the accelerator, and then the gauge drops to 1/4
and
then comes back to full.  The gauge was rebuilt by Mo-Ma in 2005, and the
sensor has never been rebuilt or replaced.   Is there an easy way to check
the
tank sensor?  John Snyder, Port Townsend, WA

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep 17 21:17:33 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 11:17:33 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLbCj6zxBZGAHLJQXRgAvX2dJ-yDUargxUzNHh+rstVaA@mail.gmail.com>

gary -

there are two main versions of the head that i am aware of, the earlier
version which does not have a side gallery next to the thermostat and the
head that does.  i think the only purpose of that side gallery was to
provide a mounting spot for the otter switch for the auxiliary enrichment
device they put on some bt7s.  dw probably uses the earlier head because it
gives more clearance for the temp gauge bulb.

alan


On Saturday, September 17, 2011,  <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
> A friend purchased a Healey 6 cylinder head at a swap meet recently. It
has
> AEC721 cast into it. My BJ8 head has AEC960 cast into it. Interestingly,
the
> Denis Welch aluminum cylinder head has AEC721 cast into it. How many
different
> 6 cylinder heads were fitted to the big Healeys & what were the
differences
> between them?  Is there any reason you know for Denis Welch using the
AEC721
> for the basis of their aluminum head? I did notice that the boss for the
water
> temperature sensor is much more accessible (I.E. getting a wrench on the
nut)
> on the AEC721 vs. the AEC960 which raises the question why did the factory
> change the design?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Sep 17 21:50:53 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 03:50:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?brake_recall?=
Message-ID: <20110918035053.11959.qmail@server278.com>

my brother just ordered a new clutch kit for his 68 Chevelle.  he wanted an quality unit and ordered one made by Sachs in germany.  the pressure plate was made in brazil, the clutch disk came from korea, and the release bearing was made in poland. i think all big companies are outsourcing whatever they can to reduce costs.  hjim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep 17 23:52:47 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 13:52:47 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge
In-Reply-To: <D1BFEF1E18AC46B1BB6EB3BC8F64B360@FRED>
References: <D1BFEF1E18AC46B1BB6EB3BC8F64B360@FRED>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+AZ0VaTBebVNnEf-UyU8ooi0bGWVPu=M2ddWDwFtYmOg@mail.gmail.com>

John -

The lead in your tank may be grounding out, a common problem.  Take
off the armachord, remove the lead, and check to make sure the lead is
properly isolated from ground.  If you leave it like this, galvanic
corrosion will eventually eat away the top of the sender.  Of course
JB weld will work perfectly here to fill up any holes.

Alan


On 9/18/11, John Snyder <helyjohn at cablespeed.com> wrote:
> I have a problem with the gas gauge or the gas level sensor in the tank in
> my
> BN7 MK2.  The gauge reads Full all the time, no matter how much is in the
> tank
> unless I really stand on the accelerator, and then the gauge drops to 1/4
> and
> then comes back to full.  The gauge was rebuilt by Mo-Ma in 2005, and the
> sensor has never been rebuilt or replaced.   Is there an easy way to check
> the
> tank sensor?  John Snyder, Port Townsend, WA
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 19 03:40:08 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 02:40:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Car Question, not LBC
Message-ID: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I have a 96 Honda accord that has an irratic speedo problem and am in need for
a help list
similar to our healey list.   In my search I came accross one of the web
sights that offer help
from  " certified on line techs now" .   Its  $38.  but you can withdraw your
offer if your not happy with the answer you are given, or so they say.   The
rub is that they now have all your credit
card info.
 
Anyone have a comment on these web sights or have you ever used one?
 
Thanks,  Mark

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Sep 19 06:30:13 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 08:30:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Car Question, not LBC
In-Reply-To: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00a701cc76c7$e1af6700$a50e3500$@verizon.net>

I used one once for a computer problem. They gave absolutely lousy
information. (It was a major computer manufacturer who charged after the
warrantee expired). I called my credit card company and the charges were
reversed after a lot of back and forth. Been several years, no additional
charges by them. The card has now been through the expired/renewal date so
the CVN (or whatever it is called on the back of the card) number is no
longer valid. But I held my breath for a while. Upshot is that I would never
ever do it again.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of mark lapierre
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2011 5:40 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Car Question, not LBC

I have a 96 Honda accord that has an irratic speedo problem and am in need
for a help list
similar to our healey list.   In my search I came accross one of the web
sights that offer help
from  " certified on line techs now" .   Its  $38.  but you can withdraw
your
offer if your not happy with the answer you are given, or so they say.   The
rub is that they now have all your credit card info.

Anyone have a comment on these web sights or have you ever used one?

Thanks,  Mark
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 19 07:49:02 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 08:49:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Car Question, not LBC
In-Reply-To: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EEC95AD8-4EE3-4CF6-B22B-E17CD87752A3@yahoo.com>

Pay using paypal....

Change the speedo cable


Or what is the probleM ?


Sent from my iPad


On Sep 19, 2011, at 4:40 AM, mark lapierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I have a 96 Honda accord that has an irratic speedo problem and am in need
for
> a help list
> similar to our healey list.   In my search I came accross one of the web
> sights that offer help
> from  " certified on line techs now" .   Its  $38.  but you can withdraw
your
> offer if your not happy with the answer you are given, or so they say.
The
> rub is that they now have all your credit
> card info.
>
> Anyone have a comment on these web sights or have you ever used one?
>
> Thanks,  Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Sep 19 07:50:52 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 15:50:52 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Car Question, not LBC
In-Reply-To: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E7748BC.1060309@chello.nl>

DON'T!!!
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Sep 19 08:18:35 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 10:18:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer angle drive
Message-ID: <8CE44EE26CD5741-12CC-5243F@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com>

A club member has been experiencing problems with his speedometer. It has been
rebuilt recently, the cable was checked to verify that the inner cable did not
protrude too far & the angle drive had the correct washer installed to prevent
binding. After replacing the angle drive several times (3 or 4) it was finally
determined that the end of the angle drive that accepts the cable did not have
a square hole but rather a round hole. After a few miles of use the cable
would begin to slip inside the angle drive. The entire inventory at Victoria
British was found to have this issue.
Gary Hodson

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Sep 19 11:53:55 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 10:53:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Car Question, not LBC
In-Reply-To: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TrsJUiA0W5SPLatV_VRvrNNLN5t1L+vdXpgux2wM0H_bA@mail.gmail.com>

Pay for play services vary in the their abilities.  Depending on the
problem, they may go "Oh sure, seen it 20 times, do this" or they may go
"Never seen it WTF?"
But with that said as a guy that has spent over 40 years in the automotive
business, fix a rattle over the phone?  you have to be kidding me.  At all
of the shops I have worked at I had an ironclad rule.  You got a rattle?
 You have to take me for a test drive and demonstrate the rattle.  If you
make it rattle I will fix it.  No can't make it rattle, I won't even go
look.
YMMV, but I would suggest a good local shop (either independent or a dealer)
that will go for a ride and listen to the car.
.02
Rick

On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 2:40 AM, mark lapierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I have a 96 Honda accord that has an irratic speedo problem and am in need
> for
> a help list
> similar to our healey list.   In my search I came accross one of the web
> sights that offer help
> from  " certified on line techs now" .   Its  $38.  but you can withdraw
> your
> offer if your not happy with the answer you are given, or so they say.
> The
> rub is that they now have all your credit
> card info.
>
> Anyone have a comment on these web sights or have you ever used one?
>
> Thanks,  Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep 19 16:52:52 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 17:52:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Car Question, not LBC
In-Reply-To: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A6F1039C408B4C619F8690114A319CD6@GregPC>

I have not done it for Accord, but there are online forums for most all late 
model cars, I have used them with my son's cars and mine with some success. 
Basically do it yourselfers and shop guys, google Honda Accord forum, find 
one that looks active (frequent posts, many users online at any one time), 
join up, post your question, like the list here you may get differing 
opinions, but with any luck you will get a few been there done that 
suggestions that may be useful.

No experience with this one, but came up on a quick google: 
http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/
100 users online in the tech help section when I checked.

Greg Lemon 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep 19 17:11:38 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 07:11:38 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>

All -

Ok, so I live in Hong Kong but I like to keep my California driver's license
up to date.  I get my once-every-5 year's-renewal notice and I go into the
DMV today to renew my license.  I think it will be simple... .... guess
again.

So the lady tells me they can't renew my license because I have an unpaid
traffic ticket from when I lived in South Carolina in.... drum roll please
.... 1992.  (now press the button here: http://sadtuba.com/)

They've renewed my license 4 times since 1992 no problem, but all of a
sudden they discover I have an unpaid ticket from 20 years ago?

This begs two questions:

1) If I steal some money, the statue of limitations on that is only 7 years,
but an unpaid traffic ticket is for life?
2) If I ask the state of California for a breakdown of how they spend tax
money, they will laugh at me, but somehow or another they know I have an
unpaid traffic ticket from 20 years ago?

Sorry just venting.  I suspect I will be able to clear this up in the
morning, but nonetheless sometimes I have to question the priorities of
government....

Best,

Alan

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 19 17:33:35 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:33:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] great photos sort of LBC
Message-ID: <CACPMnYrf6SsmPHY4RaFiCbLkhwLSzP=PsDuAf985K99rMqeNgg@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-14896856



Mods and rockers, great British bikes and scooter 50 years later

Goodwood pics

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-14912747

-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep 19 21:33:42 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 22:33:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5D496BB23B85499CAE329E19B658D883@GregPC>

Alan, I would be frustrated too, but, by way of explantion, I am sure you 
got nailed now because more and more data is shared between jurisdictions, 
they do it because they can, if they could have easily years ago they would 
have.  Your ticket counts against you because it is a mere civil violation 
or infraction, so things like innocent until proven guilty and such do not 
apply like they would in a charge involving possible jail time or 
imprisonment.

Don't do the crime if you can't do the time. (trivia question: lyrics from 
them song from what 70s cop show?, and bonus what was the actual name of the 
song)

Greg Lemon

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 19 23:01:51 2011
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 22:01:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>

Yup, I went thru the same ordeal a while ago with my son getting a local
license in KY with a $10 parking ticket from RI more than 10 years previous.
It took several months to get RI to unscramble the details so KY just waited.
No rush from RI as it pays them good interest plus ever see a DMV rush with
anything except to chase you for money? Ended up over $250 with penalties and
interest to the great (?) state of RI...Big brother doesn't stop watching and
it is a one way street. Richard of KYBN7 #440

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Sep 20 01:33:24 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 09:33:24 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Car Question, not LBC
In-Reply-To: <A6F1039C408B4C619F8690114A319CD6@GregPC>
References: <1316425208.50568.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<A6F1039C408B4C619F8690114A319CD6@GregPC>
Message-ID: <4E7841C4.1040002@chello.nl>

These forums exist for many things, not only cars. They can help you fix 
the washing machine, central heating, air conditioning etc. I have found 
them very helpful in the past.
The participants are usually enthusiastic DIY people and there are also 
helpful professionals to help you out.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 20 06:11:15 2011
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 05:11:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1316520675.55913.YahooMailRC@web83916.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

________________________________


So the lady tells me they can't renew
my license because I have an unpaid
traffic ticket from when I lived in South
Carolina in.... drum roll please
.... 1992.  (now press the button here:
http://sadtuba.com/)


Alan,
As one that passes through customs regularly,,
just wait until you miss a ticket 
and the state issues a warrant for your
arrest. The border folks stopped us 
retirning from Conclave in 2009
(Kingston, ON). My 30 some year old son had a 
warrant based on a unpaid
ticket in (you guessed South Carolina). Fortunately it 
was a non-extraditable
offense and after a short delay we were on the road 
again. The ticket was
paid promptly upon our return to Illinois, his current 
residence.
Bob

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Tue Sep 20 08:21:36 2011
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 10:21:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001b01cc77a0$9b33aeb0$d19b0c10$@mindspring.com>

Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.   You
receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.  

The "ticket blew off the windshield" or "ticket was taken by a bystander"
arguments don't really hold much water with me either.   Those kinds of
events are simply way way too rare to be honest portrayals of events.
(Usually, the sight of a ticket promotes a response like..."Boy, wouldn't
you like to see the person's face when they get back to the car and see the
ticket!")  

Parking spots are regulated for good reason(s).  If people don't abide by
the regulations it makes finding a parking space for legitimate parkers even
worse than things already are...or worse, it compromises safety (when people
park in front of fire hydrants, or too close to corners and cause
blind-spots for intersections, for example).  Whenever I see a ticket on a
windshield, it tells me the driver is being intentionally selfish with
respect to the needs of his/her fellow person.... or it tells me that some
poor person simply lost track of time, and therefore needs a reminder that
there are penalties for not paying attention.   

Yep, I know there are instances where the meter-maid arrives just as the
meter expires; but that too is rare.  Usually a ticket means a flagrant
disregard for parking regulations... So, as I said at the outset.  No one
gets sympathy from me for legal tangles caused by double infractions.  (You
earned the ticket in the first place, and you double earned your troubles by
failing to pay it.)

-skip-
BJ7, BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 1:02 AM
To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Webmeister
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs

Yup, I went thru the same ordeal a while ago with my son getting a local
license in KY with a $10 parking ticket from RI more than 10 years previous.
It took several months to get RI to unscramble the details so KY just
waited.
No rush from RI as it pays them good interest plus ever see a DMV rush with
anything except to chase you for money? Ended up over $250 with penalties
and interest to the great (?) state of RI...Big brother doesn't stop
watching and it is a one way street. Richard of KYBN7 #440
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 20 09:11:43 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 23:11:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <001b01cc77a0$9b33aeb0$d19b0c10$@mindspring.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>
	<001b01cc77a0$9b33aeb0$d19b0c10$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLG2yS8QbbDYGVGQ_D3=fkqJzizmnymjnxreQ4y+RO+_w@mail.gmail.com>

Skip -

I agree 100% with your message, the weird thing is, I've never skipped
a ticket in my life so I can't even figure where this is coming from
...

Alan

On 9/20/11, Skip Saunders <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com> wrote:
> Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.   You
> receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.
>
> The "ticket blew off the windshield" or "ticket was taken by a bystander"
> arguments don't really hold much water with me either.   Those kinds of
> events are simply way way too rare to be honest portrayals of events.
> (Usually, the sight of a ticket promotes a response like..."Boy, wouldn't
> you like to see the person's face when they get back to the car and see the
> ticket!")
>
> Parking spots are regulated for good reason(s).  If people don't abide by
> the regulations it makes finding a parking space for legitimate parkers even
> worse than things already are...or worse, it compromises safety (when people
> park in front of fire hydrants, or too close to corners and cause
> blind-spots for intersections, for example).  Whenever I see a ticket on a
> windshield, it tells me the driver is being intentionally selfish with
> respect to the needs of his/her fellow person.... or it tells me that some
> poor person simply lost track of time, and therefore needs a reminder that
> there are penalties for not paying attention.
>
> Yep, I know there are instances where the meter-maid arrives just as the
> meter expires; but that too is rare.  Usually a ticket means a flagrant
> disregard for parking regulations... So, as I said at the outset.  No one
> gets sympathy from me for legal tangles caused by double infractions.  (You
> earned the ticket in the first place, and you double earned your troubles by
> failing to pay it.)
>
> -skip-
> BJ7, BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
> Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 1:02 AM
> To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Webmeister
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
>
> Yup, I went thru the same ordeal a while ago with my son getting a local
> license in KY with a $10 parking ticket from RI more than 10 years previous.
> It took several months to get RI to unscramble the details so KY just
> waited.
> No rush from RI as it pays them good interest plus ever see a DMV rush with
> anything except to chase you for money? Ended up over $250 with penalties
> and interest to the great (?) state of RI...Big brother doesn't stop
> watching and it is a one way street. Richard of KYBN7 #440
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com
>
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Tue Sep 20 09:28:37 2011
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 11:28:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PKdceEybPxPpXihZ00FH3-6540=hWvpWLZ_MxgR+Zj8KA@mail.gmail.com>

I couldn't get a drivers license when we moved from ME to NH because some
guy in NY with a similar name (but not the same name) had an unpaid NY
ticket.  I had to clear things up in the state of NY before NH would issue
me a license.  Aiyiyi..

- Tom


On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 7:11 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> All -
>
> Ok, so I live in Hong Kong but I like to keep my California driver's
> license
> up to date.  I get my once-every-5 year's-renewal notice and I go into the
> DMV today to renew my license.  I think it will be simple... .... guess
> again.
>
> So the lady tells me they can't renew my license because I have an unpaid
> traffic ticket from when I lived in South Carolina in.... drum roll please
> .... 1992.  (now press the button here: http://sadtuba.com/)
>
> They've renewed my license 4 times since 1992 no problem, but all of a
> sudden they discover I have an unpaid ticket from 20 years ago?
>
> This begs two questions:
>
> 1) If I steal some money, the statue of limitations on that is only 7
> years,
> but an unpaid traffic ticket is for life?
> 2) If I ask the state of California for a breakdown of how they spend tax
> money, they will laugh at me, but somehow or another they know I have an
> unpaid traffic ticket from 20 years ago?
>
> Sorry just venting.  I suspect I will be able to clear this up in the
> morning, but nonetheless sometimes I have to question the priorities of
> government....
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Tue Sep 20 09:45:57 2011
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 11:45:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002601cc77ac$642cce40$2c866ac0$@mindspring.com>

Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.   You
receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.  

The "ticket blew off the windshield" or "ticket was taken by a bystander"
arguments don't really hold much water with me either.   Those kinds of
events are simply way way too rare to be honest portrayals of events.
(Usually, the sight of a ticket promotes a response like..."Boy, wouldn't
you like to see the person's face when they get back to the car and see the
ticket!")  

Parking spots are regulated for good reason(s).  If people don't abide by
the regulations it makes finding a parking space for legitimate parkers even
worse than things already are...or worse, it compromises safety (when people
park in front of fire hydrants, or too close to corners and cause
blind-spots for intersections, for example).  Whenever I see a ticket on a
windshield, it tells me the driver is being intentionally selfish with
respect to the needs of his/her fellow person.... or it tells me that some
poor person simply lost track of time, and therefore needs a reminder that
there are penalties for not paying attention.   

Yep, I know there are instances where the meter-maid arrives just as the
meter expires; but that too is rare.  Usually a ticket means a flagrant
disregard for parking regulations... So, as I said at the outset.  No one
gets sympathy from me for legal tangles caused by double infractions.  (You
earned the ticket in the first place, and you double earned your troubles by
failing to pay it.)

-skip-
BJ7, BJ8

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 20 11:21:22 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 10:21:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Jenson by Healey Sports Cars Switzerland
Message-ID: <2031A9D2FF3C4E14AF5437D3D692B618@LeonardPCPC>

 Healey related by Subject only?


http://www.autoweek.com/article/20110920/CARNEWS/110929997?utm_source=DailyDr
ive20110920&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=image4&utm_content=20110920-U.K._
firm_plans_modern_Jensen_Interceptor&utm_campaign=awdailydrive


Sorry.  I'm not familiar with converting into TinyURL.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 20 11:34:55 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 10:34:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLG2yS8QbbDYGVGQ_D3=fkqJzizmnymjnxreQ4y+RO+_w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>
	<001b01cc77a0$9b33aeb0$d19b0c10$@mindspring.com>
	<CAFBXTkLG2yS8QbbDYGVGQ_D3=fkqJzizmnymjnxreQ4y+RO+_w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1316540095.60950.YahooMailNeo@web120528.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

you could argue that the check is on the mail.... for the past 20 years.....
 
Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype:
jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota, Colombia
>________________________________
>From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>To: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>; Richard Collins
<gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>; Webmeister <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent:
Tuesday, September 20, 2011 10:11 AM
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crazy crazy
California - S. Carolina DMVs
>
>Skip -
>
>I agree 100% with your message, the
weird thing is, I've never skipped
>a ticket in my life so I can't even figure
where this is coming from
>...
>
>Alan
>
>On 9/20/11, Skip Saunders
<tfsbj7 at mindspring.com> wrote:
>> Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the
"victims" in this thread.   You
>> receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and
get it reversed.
>>
>> The "ticket blew off the windshield" or "ticket was
taken by a bystander"
>> arguments don't really hold much water with me
either.   Those kinds of
>> events are simply way way too rare to be honest
portrayals of events.
>> (Usually, the sight of a ticket promotes a response
like..."Boy, wouldn't
>> you like to see the person's face when they get back
to the car and see the
>> ticket!")
>>
>> Parking spots are regulated for good
reason(s).  If people don't abide by
>> the regulations it makes finding a
parking space for legitimate parkers even
>> worse than things already
are...or worse, it compromises safety (when people
>> park in front of fire
hydrants, or too close to corners and cause
>> blind-spots for intersections,
for example).  Whenever I see a ticket on a
>> windshield, it tells me the
driver is being intentionally selfish with
>> respect to the needs of his/her
fellow person.... or it tells me that some
>> poor person simply lost track of
time, and therefore needs a reminder that
>> there are penalties for not
paying attention.
>>
>> Yep, I know there are instances where the meter-maid
arrives just as the
>> meter expires; but that too is rare.  Usually a ticket
means a flagrant
>> disregard for parking regulations... So, as I said at the
outset.  No one
>> gets sympathy from me for legal tangles caused by double
infractions.  (You
>> earned the ticket in the first place, and you double
earned your troubles by
>> failing to pay it.)
>>
>> -skip-
>> BJ7, BJ8
>>
>>
-----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 1:02 AM
>> To: healey.nut at gmail.com;
Webmeister
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
>>
>> Yup, I went thru the same ordeal a while ago with my son getting a local
>> license in KY with a $10 parking ticket from RI more than 10 years
previous.
>> It took several months to get RI to unscramble the details so KY
just
>> waited.
>> No rush from RI as it pays them good interest plus ever see
a DMV rush with
>> anything except to chase you for money? Ended up over $250
with penalties
>> and interest to the great (?) state of RI...Big brother
doesn't stop
>> watching and it is a one way street. Richard of KYBN7 #440
>>
_______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com
>>
>>
>
>-- 
>Sent from my mobile device
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From kaynmike.bham at juno.com  Tue Sep 20 12:51:19 2011
From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 18:51:19 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Back to the Electricals.   BN2
Message-ID: <20110920.115119.16758.0@webmail56.vgs.untd.com>

Was on here a few weeks ago and got good advice from this bunch. Turn
signals/brake lights stopped working-again. The "fix" was to replace the relay
box on the inner left fender. Presto-it all worked. Drove the car yesterday
afternoon the green indicator light said -"all's well." Went out last night to
put the car in the garage-nope, no lights (stop&turnindicator.) Is there a
test for the relay box without removing it fron the car?
Mike Gougeon  '56 BN2

From wpollock at inbox.com  Tue Sep 20 13:43:08 2011
From: wpollock at inbox.com (Bill Plck)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 11:43:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy-Crazy Calif DMV-SC DMV
Message-ID: <5A19A20F7A8.000003DAwpollock@inbox.com>

Its now pretty tough and expensive to try to evade paying a traffic fine under
the system set up by the states under mandates from the Federal Highway Admin
and DOT.

Back in the early to mid 80s or there bouts,states were mandated to design a
system to prevent commercial drivers from having a license from more than one
state. After setting it up states were allowed to also check to see if non
commercial drivers had multi state licenses. Within the system was a check for
suspensions by one state and the other states did not know about it. If state
"A" suspended a commercial driver,that driver could and usually did continue
driving because they had licenses from other states. As long as they did not
drive in state A who had suspended him or her,there was not problem. When
states started checking commercial drivers though this system,the driver had
to choose one state to be licensed in and the other licenses hold by the
person were taken. Today because of this system truckers and commercial
drivers have only one license held in the state of their choice. At renewal
time the system is checked for outstanding tickets,suspensions,warrants
etc....though all 50 states and it only takes a minute or so.

Prior to 9-11 it was voluntary on the part of states to check non commercial
drivers though this system. Today it is required of all states to check all
drivers,newly licensed,renewal licenses,moving from one state to another, for
outstanding tickets,violations etc..
The system today is so fine tuned,that parking tickets which are a major money
raiser for cities and states are included. If the parking tickets in question
had been moving violations such as speeding,the consequence could have been a
suspension by SC which CA would have enforced and its down hill from there.
One of things now that occurs when a law enforcement officer stops a car is a
check of this multi state computer system from the in-car computer that many
police cars carry as part of the equipment.
The system is now used by other federal and state agencies to track drivers
and vehicles as well as DMVs. This is why the driver from Ill had a problem
returning home from Canada.

So bottom line is,if you get an out of state ticket,pay it within the time
period and caulk it up,lesson learned. Big brother or not,this is the system
we have to live with.
The next step is national uniform license with lots of information embedded in
a chip,that will serve as a national ID card. Some states like NH are
resisting this.



Bill Pollock
CT

____________________________________________________________
Publish your photos in seconds for FREE
TRY IM TOOLPACK at http://www.imtoolpack.com/default.aspx?rc=if4

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 20 14:59:35 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 04:59:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] UPDATE: Cal vs S. Carolina DMV madness
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLsrOUNsGziy+1eFjGiAqiZSFL-BPsu4kHS5hNy1YK9xw@mail.gmail.com>

So -

I call S. Carolina DMV this morning and ask them why are they holding up the
renewal of my DL?

They tell me that I had a car accident in 1990 (which I did) and they are
holding up my DL renewal because.... if you can believe this... they don't
have a record that I ever showed anyone from the state that I had proof of
insurance in 1990.

I think the loophole here was I was working at the Savannah River Plant, and
when I had my accident at the plant, I showed my insurance to the DOE
facility police and then they never passed that information to the SC
authorities.

I explained to her the situation and I said there's no way I can prove I had
insurance in 1990, and asked her is there a way around this.  She said, yes,
you can pay a $100 fee.  I said fine, take my credit card.  She said they
don't take credit cards and I have to send a check and wait for it to clear.
 I then told her "so you are telling me that my license will expire and I
wont be able to drive because of a non existent infraction from 20 years
ago, and also because you can't process my payment efficiently?"

Well bless Southern hospitality because the nice DMV lady felt pretty bad,
and given the situation she finally did agree to waive the charge and remove
the block from my driver's license renewal.

So, be prepared.  All of the DMVs are under orders to raise money any way
possible and they will be tagging any and all infractions, perceived or
actual, current or prehistoric, to your Driver's License renewal.  I was
lucky because the lady was nice, but I would HIGHLY suggest that if you have
to renew your driver's license that you do it at least a month in advance,
so that when these grabs for cash show up you have time to deal with it.

Good luck all -

Alan

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Tue Sep 20 15:30:26 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 16:30:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-fmzsUXbK_H5OLSAHZOU+stJdwaaj_wMP6CU=uhmmpYGw@mail.gmail.com>

*Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.   You
receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.

*The ticket is not always justified. In the Chicago area the village of
Bellwood has a red light camera scam, and I'm not sure what to do about it.

One day the mail contained a red light violation from Bellwood for my wife.
It was a pay up with* no court date* for protest. She didn't know how it
happened since she is one of those gray haired old ladies that are so
cautions they drive other drivers to distraction. We paid.

Recently, on the same corner, I found out how they did it. I arrived at the
intersection with a green light showing. The light was green when the front
bumper of the car entered the intersection. When the hood (it is a Chevy),
was 2/3rds into the intersection the light turned yellow. Before the entire
hood was in the intersection the light turned red. The yellow was on for
about 2 seconds. I am awaiting the ticket and will probably have to go to
the court house to see if I can get a date to protest. These tickets used
add a penalty if you protested them, but that was stopped.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to stop these folks? Any Chicago based
lawyers on the list?

Jack

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Tue Sep 20 15:37:44 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 17:37:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] New Jenson by Healey Sports Cars Switzerland
In-Reply-To: <2031A9D2FF3C4E14AF5437D3D692B618@LeonardPCPC>
References: <2031A9D2FF3C4E14AF5437D3D692B618@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <8CE45F4AAD4F4DA-DC8-5054A@Webmail-d116.sysops.aol.com>

Nice looking car.


 Bill Wilkman
BT7, AN5






-----Original Message-----
From: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
To: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 4:08 pm
Subject: [Healeys] New Jenson by Healey Sports Cars Switzerland


 Healey related by Subject only?


http://www.autoweek.com/article/20110920/CARNEWS/110929997?utm_source=DailyDr
ive20110920&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=image4&utm_content=20110920-U.K._
firm_plans_modern_Jensen_Interceptor&utm_campaign=awdailydrive


Sorry.  I'm not familiar with converting into TinyURL.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From cgmoog at optonline.net  Tue Sep 20 16:15:05 2011
From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 18:15:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <001b01cc77a0$9b33aeb0$d19b0c10$@mindspring.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>
	<001b01cc77a0$9b33aeb0$d19b0c10$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <4E791069.6010500@optonline.net>

While I would agree, twice in the last 20 years I have had my license 
suspended for a parking ticket issued in Garden City Long Island (I live 
in NYS but not near LI).  In neither case had I been on Long Island 
during the year that the tickets were issued.  In both cases I had to 
write asking for the ticket.  In neither case did the description of the 
vehicle match mine (though the plate number did).  I each case, even 
though the DMV records (which the town had to look up to get my mailing 
address) showed a vehicle mis-match, I had to send copies of my 
registration showing my plate number and a different vehicle description 
and ask that the ticket be dismissed.  The whole time this mail-go-round 
was going on my drivers license was officially suspended.

Luckily at the time the police did not have the auto plate readers now 
in use, so I just had to drive carefully, not speed and avoid parking 
anywhere I might get a ticket.



On 2011-09-20 10:21 AM, Skip Saunders wrote:
> Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.   You
> receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.
>
> The "ticket blew off the windshield" or "ticket was taken by a bystander"
> arguments don't really hold much water with me either.   Those kinds of
> events are simply way way too rare to be honest portrayals of events.
> (Usually, the sight of a ticket promotes a response like..."Boy, wouldn't
> you like to see the person's face when they get back to the car and see the
> ticket!")

From ktee20 at gmail.com  Tue Sep 20 16:31:02 2011
From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 08:31:02 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJBOvRSViPjSvzg2yxesQ+99qE+yzVfXO+Zun0T8ujP6f+xGFw@mail.gmail.com>

Try living in the land of OZ    During a house move I failed to vote in a
minor Council election
( voting is compulsory here )  I received a penalty notice 2 years later
advising me if I did not pay $75 my LICENCE & REGISTRATION would be
cancelled . Had the purchaser of my previous home not forwarded this on to
me the consequences of being in say a minor accident boggles the mind
....unlicensed....unregistered  =  uninsured........

To put compulsory voting in perspective   Our Local MP came from a union
sectary job to politics  He is now trying to stare down the fraudulent use
of his Union credit card ( $100K of members money )  to pay for Hookers
...Long lunches....School fees...cash withdrawals ++

We are expected under penalty of possible prison time to vote for these
scumbags
.Worse I believe Australia is the only democratic country to have compulsory
voting

This happened 22 years ago & I still seethe at the thought of it

Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL
AUSTRALIA


On 20 September 2011 09:11, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> All -
>
> Ok, so I live in Hong Kong but I like to keep my California driver's
> license
> up to date.  I get my once-every-5 year's-renewal notice and I go into the
> DMV today to renew my license.  I think it will be simple... .... guess
> again.
>
> So the lady tells me they can't renew my license because I have an unpaid
> traffic ticket from when I lived in South Carolina in.... drum roll please
> .... 1992.  (now press the button here: http://sadtuba.com/)
>
> They've renewed my license 4 times since 1992 no problem, but all of a
> sudden they discover I have an unpaid ticket from 20 years ago?
>
> This begs two questions:
>
> 1) If I steal some money, the statue of limitations on that is only 7
> years,
> but an unpaid traffic ticket is for life?
> 2) If I ask the state of California for a breakdown of how they spend tax
> money, they will laugh at me, but somehow or another they know I have an
> unpaid traffic ticket from 20 years ago?
>
> Sorry just venting.  I suspect I will be able to clear this up in the
> morning, but nonetheless sometimes I have to question the priorities of
> government....
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ktee20 at gmail.com

From wkollar at nycap.rr.com  Tue Sep 20 16:51:37 2011
From: wkollar at nycap.rr.com (Bill)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 17:51:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <001b01cc77a0$9b33aeb0$d19b0c10$@mindspring.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com><BLU117-W14057AC014C9176049FB9ABF0A0@phx.gbl>
	<001b01cc77a0$9b33aeb0$d19b0c10$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <75518C71022B49AA9721E4140EF34A56@Leviathon>

You have got to be kidding me!

All of this drivel for something as silly as this incident.

And do you genuflect to each police officer you meet? ? ?


-----Original Message----- 
From: Skip Saunders
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 9:21 AM
To: 'Richard Collins' ; healey.nut at gmail.com ; 'Webmeister'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs

Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.   You
receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.

The "ticket blew off the windshield" or "ticket was taken by a bystander"
arguments don't really hold much water with me either.   Those kinds of
events are simply way way too rare to be honest portrayals of events.
(Usually, the sight of a ticket promotes a response like..."Boy, wouldn't
you like to see the person's face when they get back to the car and see the
ticket!")

Parking spots are regulated for good reason(s).  If people don't abide by
the regulations it makes finding a parking space for legitimate parkers even
worse than things already are...or worse, it compromises safety (when people
park in front of fire hydrants, or too close to corners and cause
blind-spots for intersections, for example).  Whenever I see a ticket on a
windshield, it tells me the driver is being intentionally selfish with
respect to the needs of his/her fellow person.... or it tells me that some
poor person simply lost track of time, and therefore needs a reminder that
there are penalties for not paying attention.

Yep, I know there are instances where the meter-maid arrives just as the
meter expires; but that too is rare.  Usually a ticket means a flagrant
disregard for parking regulations... So, as I said at the outset.  No one
gets sympathy from me for legal tangles caused by double infractions.  (You
earned the ticket in the first place, and you double earned your troubles by
failing to pay it.)

-skip-
BJ7, BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 1:02 AM
To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Webmeister
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs

Yup, I went thru the same ordeal a while ago with my son getting a local
license in KY with a $10 parking ticket from RI more than 10 years previous.
It took several months to get RI to unscramble the details so KY just
waited.
No rush from RI as it pays them good interest plus ever see a DMV rush with
anything except to chase you for money? Ended up over $250 with penalties
and interest to the great (?) state of RI...Big brother doesn't stop
watching and it is a one way street. Richard of KYBN7 #440
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com 

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Sep 20 19:15:50 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 21:15:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-fmzsUXbK_H5OLSAHZOU+stJdwaaj_wMP6CU=uhmmpYGw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-fmzsUXbK_H5OLSAHZOU+stJdwaaj_wMP6CU=uhmmpYGw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4UgHKMSX8pv9boc3KwNLkACrmfZwAYSLG1DGkcT-aXUg@mail.gmail.com>

Jack--

Even assuming she was traveling at 10 mph (15 feet per second) the math just
doesn't work out.  My non-Illinois legal opinion is to pay the ticket.

Best--Michael

On Tue, Sep 20, 2011 at 5:30 PM, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>wrote:

> *Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.
> You
> receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.
>
> *The ticket is not always justified. In the Chicago area the village of
> Bellwood has a red light camera scam, and I'm not sure what to do about it.
>
> One day the mail contained a red light violation from Bellwood for my wife.
> It was a pay up with* no court date* for protest. She didn't know how it
> happened since she is one of those gray haired old ladies that are so
> cautions they drive other drivers to distraction. We paid.
>
> Recently, on the same corner, I found out how they did it. I arrived at the
> intersection with a green light showing. The light was green when the front
> bumper of the car entered the intersection. When the hood (it is a Chevy),
> was 2/3rds into the intersection the light turned yellow. Before the entire
> hood was in the intersection the light turned red. The yellow was on for
> about 2 seconds. I am awaiting the ticket and will probably have to go to
> the court house to see if I can get a date to protest. These tickets used
> add a penalty if you protested them, but that was stopped.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions on how to stop these folks? Any Chicago based
> lawyers on the list?
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 20 19:22:10 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 18:22:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKbAamo4ebihEz8eNpYqMYugOy4wm8BtLJZUBCJNYmHUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1316568130.9268.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Alan, Love it - keep us posted .... it may be useful one day.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Mon, 9/19/11, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
> To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, September 19, 2011, 4:11 PM
> All -
>
> Ok, so I live in Hong Kong but I like to keep my California
> driver's license
> up to date.  I get my once-every-5 year's-renewal
> notice and I go into the
> DMV today to renew my license.  I think it will be
> simple... .... guess
> again.
>
> So the lady tells me they can't renew my license because I
> have an unpaid
> traffic ticket from when I lived in South Carolina in....
> drum roll please
> .... 1992.  (now press the button here: http://sadtuba.com/)
>
> They've renewed my license 4 times since 1992 no problem,
> but all of a
> sudden they discover I have an unpaid ticket from 20 years
> ago?
>
> This begs two questions:
>
> 1) If I steal some money, the statue of limitations on that
> is only 7 years,
> but an unpaid traffic ticket is for life?
> 2) If I ask the state of California for a breakdown of how
> they spend tax
> money, they will laugh at me, but somehow or another they
> know I have an
> unpaid traffic ticket from 20 years ago?
>
> Sorry just venting.  I suspect I will be able to clear
> this up in the
> morning, but nonetheless sometimes I have to question the
> priorities of
> government....
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From factodon at aol.com  Tue Sep 20 19:51:13 2011
From: factodon at aol.com (factodon at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 21:51:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
Message-ID: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>

Any experiences with re-built water pumps. for a BJ 8....positive or
negative??  I have a couple of sources from  Hemmings..they want about  70-80
%  of the cost of a new one.  I would appreciate any names of rebuilders that
folks have had  a reliable product
Thanks in advance
Don Factor

From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Tue Sep 20 20:03:20 2011
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 14:03:20 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <6DF0A4A0-E384-4C1F-83B2-1794DB37EB67@gmail.com>
References: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>
	<6DF0A4A0-E384-4C1F-83B2-1794DB37EB67@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D2D15F4EFAD44E87A6CF77DB55D5101C@IBMD038403EC0B>

Chris and Gary,
I also have an original works head.  It too has the AEC 721 number
cast into the top.
As an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after
hours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently
made from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down.
I've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or
blue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also a
slight difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being
considered the better designed one. 
One of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8 with
the 721.  He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in
performance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was  . . .  that
was back in the 70s.

Cheers
Mark Donaldson
Auckland. NZ



-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, 18 September 2011 12:50 p.m.
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

Hey Gary,
Factory alloy heads are all based on the AEC721 - the original 12 port

head - casting. Even Joe Armors BJ8 based 1965 Sebring car has a  
factory alloy head based on the earlier AEC721 casting, not the later

3000 AEC960 casting.
Denis Welch wanted his head accepted by the FIA - it had to be a  
replica of the factory alloy head. Hence AEC721
All the AEC 960 heads i have seen are wrongly machined. See
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/aec960-healey-cylinder-head.html
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

On 18/09/2011, at 1:15 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:

> A friend purchased a Healey 6 cylinder head at a swap meet recently.

> It has
> AEC721 cast into it. My BJ8 head has AEC960 cast into it.  
> Interestingly, the
> Denis Welch aluminum cylinder head has AEC721 cast into it. How many

> different
> 6 cylinder heads were fitted to the big Healeys & what were the  
> differences
> between them?  Is there any reason you know for Denis Welch using  
> the AEC721
> for the basis of their aluminum head? I did notice that the boss for

> the water
> temperature sensor is much more accessible (I.E. getting a wrench on

> the nut)
> on the AEC721 vs. the AEC960 which raises the question why did the  
> factory
> change the design?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Tue Sep 20 21:26:53 2011
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 23:26:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-fmzsUXbK_H5OLSAHZOU+stJdwaaj_wMP6CU=uhmmpYGw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-fmzsUXbK_H5OLSAHZOU+stJdwaaj_wMP6CU=uhmmpYGw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001201cc780e$4f042a10$ed0c7e30$@mindspring.com>

Your story makes possible one step beyond getting a court to reverse the
fine... You should make a movie that proves your 2 second story, take it to
a lawyer who will help you sue the village for enough money to retire in
luxury (or at least pay for a good Healey restoration).   

:-)
-skip-

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jack Feldman
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 5:30 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs

*Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.   You
receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.

*The ticket is not always justified. In the Chicago area the village of
Bellwood has a red light camera scam, and I'm not sure what to do about it.

One day the mail contained a red light violation from Bellwood for my wife.
It was a pay up with* no court date* for protest. She didn't know how it
happened since she is one of those gray haired old ladies that are so
cautions they drive other drivers to distraction. We paid.

Recently, on the same corner, I found out how they did it. I arrived at the
intersection with a green light showing. The light was green when the front
bumper of the car entered the intersection. When the hood (it is a Chevy),
was 2/3rds into the intersection the light turned yellow. Before the entire
hood was in the intersection the light turned red. The yellow was on for
about 2 seconds. I am awaiting the ticket and will probably have to go to
the court house to see if I can get a date to protest. These tickets used
add a penalty if you protested them, but that was stopped.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to stop these folks? Any Chicago based
lawyers on the list?

Jack
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 21 00:01:00 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 01:01:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
In-Reply-To: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <92A3F338-FC67-4A71-B5B5-528675A9913B@yahoo.com>

Negative
For 70-80% of a new one....do not fool around. It is as important as the oil
pump....
Buy a new one



Sent from my iPad


On Sep 20, 2011, at 8:51 PM, factodon at aol.com wrote:

> Any experiences with re-built water pumps. for a BJ 8....positive or
> negative??  I have a couple of sources from  Hemmings..they want about
70-80
> %  of the cost of a new one.  I would appreciate any names of rebuilders
that
> folks have had  a reliable product
> Thanks in advance
> Don Factor
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Sep 21 06:26:00 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 08:26:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
In-Reply-To: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000801cc7859$9f6c9e60$de45db20$@rr.com>

My experience may be too old to be useful, but I have had a rebuilt water
pump from TS Imported Automotive in Pandora, OH on my BJ8 since 1993.  It
now has 82,000 miles on it.  I have never had any problem with it.
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of factodon at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 9:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump

Any experiences with re-built water pumps. for a BJ 8....positive or
negative??  I have a couple of sources from  Hemmings..they want about
70-80
%  of the cost of a new one.  I would appreciate any names of rebuilders
that
folks have had  a reliable product
Thanks in advance
Don Factor

From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Sep 21 07:06:15 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 09:06:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <D2D15F4EFAD44E87A6CF77DB55D5101C@IBMD038403EC0B>
References: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>
	<6DF0A4A0-E384-4C1F-83B2-1794DB37EB67@gmail.com>
	<D2D15F4EFAD44E87A6CF77DB55D5101C@IBMD038403EC0B>
Message-ID: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>

Chris & Mark,
Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both have the
plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris' information &
photographs.
If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never corrected
it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance.
Gary






-----Original Message-----
From: ardmorebusiness <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
To: 'Chris Dimmock' <austin.healey at gmail.com>; warthodson
<warthodson at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 9:03 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] cylinder head questions


Chris and Gary,
 also have an original works head.  It too has the AEC 721 number
ast into the top.
s an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after
ours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently
ade from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down.
've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or
lue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also a
light difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being
onsidered the better designed one.
ne of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8 with
he 721.  He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in
erformance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was  . . .  that
as back in the 70s.
Cheers
ark Donaldson
uckland. NZ

-----Original Message-----
rom: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
ent: Sunday, 18 September 2011 12:50 p.m.
o: warthodson at aol.com
c: healeys at autox.team.net
ubject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
Hey Gary,
actory alloy heads are all based on the AEC721 - the original 12 port
head - casting. Even Joe Armors BJ8 based 1965 Sebring car has a
actory alloy head based on the earlier AEC721 casting, not the later
3000 AEC960 casting.
enis Welch wanted his head accepted by the FIA - it had to be a
eplica of the factory alloy head. Hence AEC721
ll the AEC 960 heads i have seen are wrongly machined. See
ttp://www.myaustinhealey.com/aec960-healey-cylinder-head.html
hris

ent from my iPhone
On 18/09/2011, at 1:15 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
> A friend purchased a Healey 6 cylinder head at a swap meet recently.
> It has
 AEC721 cast into it. My BJ8 head has AEC960 cast into it.
 Interestingly, the
 Denis Welch aluminum cylinder head has AEC721 cast into it. How many
> different
 6 cylinder heads were fitted to the big Healeys & what were the
 differences
 between them?  Is there any reason you know for Denis Welch using
 the AEC721
 for the basis of their aluminum head? I did notice that the boss for
> the water
 temperature sensor is much more accessible (I.E. getting a wrench on
> the nut)
 on the AEC721 vs. the AEC960 which raises the question why did the
 factory
 change the design?
 Gary Hodson
 _______________________________________________
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe/Manage:
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From amalin at mac.com  Wed Sep 21 07:07:00 2011
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 09:07:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-fmzsUXbK_H5OLSAHZOU+stJdwaaj_wMP6CU=uhmmpYGw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-fmzsUXbK_H5OLSAHZOU+stJdwaaj_wMP6CU=uhmmpYGw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1128DB13-A38A-44D0-A62A-CA6DCF6CAF99@mac.com>

Enforcement traps are government fund raisers and no one could have said it clearer than Former Governor Janet Napolitano about her Arizona speed cameras.

Article quote: "Arizona Governor Janet Napolitano announced on Friday her expectation that the state's new freeway speed cameras would generate $90 million in net profit for fiscal year 2009, plus $34 million for the private companies selected to operate the program."

http://www.thenewspaper.com/news/21/2180.asp

Al


On Sep 20, 2011, at 5:30 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:

> *Sorry... I don't have much sympathy for the "victims" in this thread.   You
> receive a ticket; pay it or go to court and get it reversed.
> 
> *The ticket is not always justified. In the Chicago area the village of
> Bellwood has a red light camera scam, and I'm not sure what to do about it.
> 
> One day the mail contained a red light violation from Bellwood for my wife.
> It was a pay up with* no court date* for protest. She didn't know how it
> happened since she is one of those gray haired old ladies that are so
> cautions they drive other drivers to distraction. We paid.
> 
> Recently, on the same corner, I found out how they did it. I arrived at the
> intersection with a green light showing. The light was green when the front
> bumper of the car entered the intersection. When the hood (it is a Chevy),
> was 2/3rds into the intersection the light turned yellow. Before the entire
> hood was in the intersection the light turned red. The yellow was on for
> about 2 seconds. I am awaiting the ticket and will probably have to go to
> the court house to see if I can get a date to protest. These tickets used
> add a penalty if you protested them, but that was stopped.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on how to stop these folks? Any Chicago based
> lawyers on the list?
> 
> Jack

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 07:32:52 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 23:32:52 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>
	<6DF0A4A0-E384-4C1F-83B2-1794DB37EB67@gmail.com>
	<D2D15F4EFAD44E87A6CF77DB55D5101C@IBMD038403EC0B>
	<8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <9287436A-5AA6-4BF3-A662-D60A6C835ADD@gmail.com>

Hi Gary,
I had the spark plug seats on my head machined in 1998.
No one I've spoken to since has said "oh yeah, knew about that" - most  
Healey people had no idea until I discussed it here and put up that  
webpage.
As for the excessive advance on a standard BJ8 - it's still a mystery.
As I've said before, I originally wrongly thought the 960 was specific  
to the Bj8 - so that in some way explained the advance in my mind.
But the 960 head is not bj8 specific - so I still don't know why there  
is so much advance in BJ8's.
Especially when a BJ8 has the 'hottest' cam of all stock C series  
engines.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 21/09/2011, at 11:06 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:

> Chris & Mark,
> Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both  
> have the plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris'  
> information & photographs.
> If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never  
> corrected it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance.
> Gary
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ardmorebusiness <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> To: 'Chris Dimmock' <austin.healey at gmail.com>; warthodson <warthodson at aol.com 
> >
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 9:03 pm
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
>
> Chris and Gary,
> I also have an original works head.  It too has the AEC 721 number
> cast into the top.
> As an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after
> hours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently
> made from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down.
> I've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or
> blue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also a
> slight difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being
> considered the better designed one.
> One of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8 with
> the 721.  He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in
> performance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was  . . .  that
> was back in the 70s.
>
> Cheers
> Mark Donaldson
> Auckland. NZ
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
> Sent: Sunday, 18 September 2011 12:50 p.m.
> To: warthodson at aol.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
>
> Hey Gary,
> Factory alloy heads are all based on the AEC721 - the original 12 port
>
> head - casting. Even Joe Armors BJ8 based 1965 Sebring car has a
> factory alloy head based on the earlier AEC721 casting, not the later
>
> 3000 AEC960 casting.
> Denis Welch wanted his head accepted by the FIA - it had to be a
> replica of the factory alloy head. Hence AEC721
> All the AEC 960 heads i have seen are wrongly machined. See
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/aec960-healey-cylinder-head.html
> Chris
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 18/09/2011, at 1:15 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>
> > A friend purchased a Healey 6 cylinder head at a swap meet recently.
>
> > It has
> > AEC721 cast into it. My BJ8 head has AEC960 cast into it.
> > Interestingly, the
> > Denis Welch aluminum cylinder head has AEC721 cast into it. How many
>
> > different
> > 6 cylinder heads were fitted to the big Healeys & what were the
> > differences
> > between them?  Is there any reason you know for Denis Welch using
> > the AEC721
> > for the basis of their aluminum head? I did notice that the boss for
>
> > the water
> > temperature sensor is much more accessible (I.E. getting a wrench on
>
> > the nut)
> > on the AEC721 vs. the AEC960 which raises the question why did the
> > factory
> > change the design?
> > Gary Hodson
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Sep 21 07:33:26 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (nk)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 09:33:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
In-Reply-To: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE467A2D4791F0-130C-EA85@Webmail-d115.sysops.aol.com>

The trouble with repro parts is that you never can be sure if they are any
good or were made as cheaply as possible or that they will even fit.


I had mine rebuilt by Arthur Gould Rebuilders, 631-269-0093
http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/
Read the description of what they do to rebuild a water pump. It is better
that original or repros & it will look exactly original (assuming yours is
original) & it will fit.
I have about 18,000 miles on mine so far.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: factodon <factodon at aol.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 11:57 pm
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump


Any experiences with re-built water pumps. for a BJ 8....positive or
egative??  I have a couple of sources from  Hemmings..they want about  70-80
  of the cost of a new one.  I would appreciate any names of rebuilders that
olks have had  a reliable product
hanks in advance
on Factor
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 08:29:16 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 09:29:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-d0WFYJLjsAoj6tkA9SBq3Fu7873Z6ORwAKoTLCSqhORQ@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,

Thanks for the reply.

Since neither of us knew of the trap at the time we did pay her fine. Could
you elaborate on the math?

I am concerned about my fine which I know is not justified.

Jack

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Oritt michael.oritt at gmail.com to me, healeys


Jack--

Even assuming she was traveling at 10 mph (15 feet per second) the math just
doesn't work out.  My non-Illinois legal opinion is to pay the ticket.

Best--Michael

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 08:39:36 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 09:39:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>

The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as trim
cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then didn't
hold.

How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
trim cement.

Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get the
yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?

Thanks,

Jack

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 08:56:26 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 10:56:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Australian Humor
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6cVWe4cZcPhu9csCn6hePUF0Ymf_weL2q32p7p6d+_xA@mail.gmail.com>

Here's a good one that our members from the Antipodes will perhaps
appreciate most--

Best--Michael Oritt
----------------------------------------

Poor old Granddad's passed away, cut off in his prime,
He never had a day off crook - gone before his time,

We found him in the dunny, collapsed there on the seat,
A startled look upon his face, his trousers around his feet.

The doctor said his heart was good - fit as any trout,
The Constable he had his say, 'foul play' was not ruled out.

There were theories at the inquest of snakebite without trace,
Of redbacks quietly creeping and death from outer space,

No-one had a clue at all - the judge was in some doubt,
When Dad was called to have his say as to how it came about,

'I reckon I can clear it up,' said Dad with trembling breath,
'You see it's quite a story - but it could explain his death.'

'This here exploration mob had been looking at our soil,
And they reckoned that our farm was just the place for oil,
So they came and put a bore down and said they'd make some trials,
They drilled a hole as deep as hell, they said about three miles.

Well, they never found a trace of oil and off they went, post haste,
And I couldn't see a hole like that go to flamin' waste,

So I moved the dunny over it - real smart move I thought,
I'd never have to dig again - I'd never be 'caught short'.

The day I moved the dunny, it looked a proper sight,
But I didn't dream poor Granddad would pass away that night,

Now I reckon what has happened - poor Granddad didn't know,
The dunny was re-located when that night he had to go.

And you'll probably be wondering how poor Granddad did his dash--
Well, he always used to hold his breath Until he heard the splash!!

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Sep 21 09:07:55 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 15:07:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I couldn't get from Chris' page what the 'solution' is; mill out the plug hole, or the inside of the chamber? 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Chris & Mark, 
Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both have the 
plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris' information & 
photographs. 
If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never corrected 
it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance. 
Gary 




Chris and Gary, 
also have an original works head. It too has the AEC 721 number 
ast into the top. 
s an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after 
ours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently 
ade from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down. 
've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or 
lue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also a 
light difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being 
onsidered the better designed one. 
ne of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8 with 
he 721. He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in 
erformance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was . . . that 
as back in the 70s. 
Cheers 
ark Donaldson 
uckland. NZ 

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Wed Sep 21 09:23:52 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 11:23:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
In-Reply-To: <000801cc7859$9f6c9e60$de45db20$@rr.com>
References: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
	<000801cc7859$9f6c9e60$de45db20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CE46899A5A7F38-18A8-5D60D@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>

 The question in regard to rebuilt versus new is a matter of the quality of
the  original part and the capability of the rebuilder.  I have generally
given up buying new parts when an original part can be rebuilt.  I send my
brake parts to White Post for resleeving and rebuilding and I have found they
last much longer than reproductions currently available.  I send my
generators, voltage regulators, and starters to British Auto Electric for
rebuilding and I have found the quality of the work to be outstanding.
Reproduction parts are often just not well made in the first place.  There can
also be issues of reproduction parts not fitting.  I believe if you have an
original part that has failed you are better off having it rebuilt than you
are buying a new reproduction part.  The key is to find an outstanding
rebuilding service.

Bill Wilkman
BT7, AN5








-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2011 9:58 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump


My experience may be too old to be useful, but I have had a rebuilt water
pump from TS Imported Automotive in Pandora, OH on my BJ8 since 1993.  It
now has 82,000 miles on it.  I have never had any problem with it.
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of factodon at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 9:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump

Any experiences with re-built water pumps. for a BJ 8....positive or
negative??  I have a couple of sources from  Hemmings..they want about
70-80
%  of the cost of a new one.  I would appreciate any names of rebuilders
that
folks have had  a reliable product
Thanks in advance
Don Factor
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com

From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Sep 21 09:47:41 2011
From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 15:47:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE4363B3E201D6-F10-2FA33@webmail-d165.sysops.aol.com>
	<6DF0A4A0-E384-4C1F-83B2-1794DB37EB67@gmail.com>
	<D2D15F4EFAD44E87A6CF77DB55D5101C@IBMD038403EC0B>
	<8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075F5E7F@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>

I figured the advance was related to the change in camshaft.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 6:06 AM
To: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz; austin.healey at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

Chris & Mark,
Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both have the
plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris' information &
photographs.
If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never corrected
it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance.
Gary






-----Original Message-----
From: ardmorebusiness <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
To: 'Chris Dimmock' <austin.healey at gmail.com>; warthodson
<warthodson at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 9:03 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] cylinder head questions


Chris and Gary,
 also have an original works head.  It too has the AEC 721 number
ast into the top.
s an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after
ours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently
ade from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down.
've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or
lue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also a
light difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being
onsidered the better designed one.
ne of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8 with
he 721.  He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in
erformance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was  . . .  that
as back in the 70s.
Cheers
ark Donaldson
uckland. NZ

-----Original Message-----
rom: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
ent: Sunday, 18 September 2011 12:50 p.m.
o: warthodson at aol.com
c: healeys at autox.team.net
ubject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
Hey Gary,
actory alloy heads are all based on the AEC721 - the original 12 port
head - casting. Even Joe Armors BJ8 based 1965 Sebring car has a
actory alloy head based on the earlier AEC721 casting, not the later
3000 AEC960 casting.
enis Welch wanted his head accepted by the FIA - it had to be a
eplica of the factory alloy head. Hence AEC721
ll the AEC 960 heads i have seen are wrongly machined. See
ttp://www.myaustinhealey.com/aec960-healey-cylinder-head.html
hris

ent from my iPhone
On 18/09/2011, at 1:15 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
> A friend purchased a Healey 6 cylinder head at a swap meet recently.
> It has
 AEC721 cast into it. My BJ8 head has AEC960 cast into it.
 Interestingly, the
 Denis Welch aluminum cylinder head has AEC721 cast into it. How many
> different
 6 cylinder heads were fitted to the big Healeys & what were the
 differences
 between them?  Is there any reason you know for Denis Welch using
 the AEC721
 for the basis of their aluminum head? I did notice that the boss for
> the water
 temperature sensor is much more accessible (I.E. getting a wrench on
> the nut)
 on the AEC721 vs. the AEC960 which raises the question why did the
 factory
 change the design?
 Gary Hodson
 _______________________________________________
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 21 11:26:50 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 10:26:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] waterpump
Message-ID: <1316626010.70326.yint-ygo-j2me@web130224.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

SU guru, Joe Curto, also does waterpumps.
Best
JK

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 21 11:38:02 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 10:38:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1316626682.76407.YahooMailClassic@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

The Bristle flex from McGregor and Moss has a heavy duty metal grabbing core. 
The stuff from VB that I bought years ago had an aluminum core that won't stay
in place by itself for very long.
Which do you have?
 
Mark

--- On Wed, 9/21/11, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, September 21, 2011, 10:39 AM


The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as trim
cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then didn't
hold.

How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
trim cement.

Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get the
yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?

Thanks,

Jack
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Sep 21 11:41:14 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 12:41:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E7A21BA.5040201@justbrits.com>

<< The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. >>

I prolly know the answer Jack,  BUT the question must be asked;
WHERE did you get it ?@?@?

Ed
'63 BJ-7

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 21 11:52:11 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 10:52:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W374575D9AC044D1353876DA40D0@phx.gbl>

I just did some with black silicon adhesive. Due to a need to reposition
stuff, I had to get it apart after 2 weeks. Major job cause that stuff sticks
but stays pliable. Got it a Napa. Black is good  cause excess is hardy
noticeable.  If you separate the metal clamps you can crimp it in place again
and get some extra hold.
Rich Kahn

> Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 09:39:36 -0500
> From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
>
> The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
> mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
> some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as
trim
> cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then
didn't
> hold.
>
> How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
> trim cement.
>
> Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get
the
> yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Sep 21 12:08:30 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:08:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2067862132.976581.1316628510433.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My guess is the yellow stuff is 3M Trim Adhesive--aka 'yellow snot'--same as the stuff you've got (it comes in black and yellow). 

3M makes an adhesive remover that works well on, you guessed it, 3M adhesives. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the 
mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried 
some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as trim 
cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then didn't 
hold. 

How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M 
trim cement. 

Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get the 
yellow stuff, which dried solid, off the car? 

Thanks, 

Jack 
_______________________________________________ 

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Sep 21 12:38:32 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 14:38:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E7A2F28.4050009@comcast.net>

Jack,
There a couple of types of the furflex door seal available.  What was 
sold for quite a few years had aluminum inside the fuzzy part that just 
did not do it's job like the original steel did and would not stay on 
the flange that you press it onto.  Moss sold some extra steel clips 
with it, but I don't know if they do the job
Martin Macgregor has an improved seal that stays on and works very well, 
but is not totally original looking.
http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/  There have been reports that Martin 
is slow at filling orders and in answering correspondence.  He came up 
with a product that filled a niche and now can't keep up with the orders.
I think that you may have the first type.
Charlie

On 9/21/2011 10:39 AM, Jack Feldman wrote:
> The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
> mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
> some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as trim
> cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then didn't
> hold.
>
> How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
> trim cement.
>
> Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get the
> yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Sep 21 12:54:47 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:54:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?clutch_problem?=
Message-ID: <20110921185447.10525.qmail@server278.com>

i think i have discovered the source of my clutch problem.  after putting the new release bearing in and hooking up the slave cylinder, i discovered that the slave cylinder rod extended out to put pressure on the bearing.  it is always pressing against the pressure plate ring.  i do not think this is the way it is supposed to be.  would it be a master cylinder problem?  both were new when i rebuilt the car.  i have temporarily relieved the pressure on the plate with a small spring, but the clutch pedal goes down about 2 inches before engaging when it has sat for a while.  any ideas.    hjim

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Sep 21 16:04:43 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:04:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
Message-ID: <220c0ccc.5a7d8.1328e04fa29.Webtop.49@charter.net>

Also the originals are iron and the newer ones are alloy.  Since we use 
it (MGA) for the alternator mount it must be iron lest it breaks 
(twice).



On Wed, Sep 21, 2011 at 8:23 AM, wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:

> The question in regard to rebuilt versus new is a matter of the 
> quality of
> the  original part and the capability of the rebuilder.  I have 
> generally
> given up buying new parts when an original part can be rebuilt.  I 
> send my
> brake parts to White Post for resleeving and rebuilding and I have 
> found they
> last much longer than reproductions currently available.  I send my
> generators, voltage regulators, and starters to British Auto Electric 
> for
> rebuilding and I have found the quality of the work to be outstanding.
> Reproduction parts are often just not well made in the first place. 
> There can
> also be issues of reproduction parts not fitting.  I believe if you 
> have an
> original part that has failed you are better off having it rebuilt 
> than you
> are buying a new reproduction part.  The key is to find an outstanding
> rebuilding service.
>
> Bill Wilkman
> BT7, AN5
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2011 9:58 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
>
>
> My experience may be too old to be useful, but I have had a rebuilt 
> water
> pump from TS Imported Automotive in Pandora, OH on my BJ8 since 1993. 
> It
> now has 82,000 miles on it.  I have never had any problem with it.
> http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of factodon at aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 9:51 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
>
> Any experiences with re-built water pumps. for a BJ 8....positive or
> negative??  I have a couple of sources from  Hemmings..they want about
> 70-80
> %  of the cost of a new one.  I would appreciate any names of 
> rebuilders
> that
> folks have had  a reliable product
> Thanks in advance
> Don Factor
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 21 16:39:55 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 15:39:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
	<2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00f001cc78af$62e8b6d0$28ba2470$@ca>

You mill out the plug hole from the outside so that the sparkplug goes
deeper into the cylinder and the spark gap is not shrouded.......ideally you
then index the plug to face the chamber....the milling is about .25"

My machine shop was initially nervous about doing it as he was worried about
the remaining strength.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 8:08 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

I couldn't get from Chris' page what the 'solution' is; mill out the plug
hole, or the inside of the chamber? 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Chris & Mark, 
Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both have the 
plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris' information & 
photographs. 
If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never
corrected 
it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance. 
Gary 




Chris and Gary, 
also have an original works head. It too has the AEC 721 number 
ast into the top. 
s an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after 
ours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently 
ade from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down. 
've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or 
lue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also a 
light difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being 
onsidered the better designed one. 
ne of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8 with 
he 721. He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in 
erformance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was . . . that 
as back in the 70s. 
Cheers 
ark Donaldson 
uckland. NZ 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 16:46:39 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 15:46:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crazy crazy California - S. Carolina DMVs
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-d0WFYJLjsAoj6tkA9SBq3Fu7873Z6ORwAKoTLCSqhORQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-d0WFYJLjsAoj6tkA9SBq3Fu7873Z6ORwAKoTLCSqhORQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-Tp2uQmGLEk1xCf_oo-MJ+j1wGPDfpqegic4DS9W1c8E-Q@mail.gmail.com>

10 miles traveled in 1  hour = 52,800 feet.
Divide 52,800 by 60 minutes in 1 hour = 880 feet per minute
880 divided by 60 seconds in a minute = 14.66 feet per second.
Two seconds = roughly 29 feet (and change)
Rick

On Wed, Sep 21, 2011 at 7:29 AM, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>wrote:

> Michael,
>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> Since neither of us knew of the trap at the time we did pay her fine. Could
> you elaborate on the math?
>
> I am concerned about my fine which I know is not justified.
>
> Jack
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael Oritt michael.oritt at gmail.com to me, healeys
>
>
> Jack--
>
> Even assuming she was traveling at 10 mph (15 feet per second) the math
> just
> doesn't work out.  My non-Illinois legal opinion is to pay the ticket.
>
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 21 17:04:31 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 16:04:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re:  New Jenson by Healey Sports Cars Switzerland
Message-ID: <1316646271.36765.YahooMailClassic@web161210.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

It does look nice, doesn't it?  http://tinyurl.com/3p45b92 OK, I've lost
track.  Who is Healey Spolrts Cars of Switzerland?  Can we start talking about
a Healey revival soon?

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Tue, 9/20/11, wilkmanracing at aol.com <wilkmanracing at aol.com> wrote:

From: wilkmanracing at aol.com <wilkmanracing at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Jenson by Healey Sports Cars Switzerland
To: thehartnetts at earthlink.net, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, September 20, 2011, 5:37 PM

Nice looking car.


 Bill Wilkman
BT7, AN5






-----Original Message-----
From: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
To: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 20,
 2011 4:08 pm
Subject: [Healeys] New Jenson by Healey Sports Cars Switzerland


 Healey related by Subject only?


http://www.autoweek.com/article/20110920/CARNEWS/110929997?utm_source=DailyDr
ive20110920&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=image4&utm_content=20110920-U.K._
firm_plans_modern_Jensen_Interceptor&utm_campaign=awdailydrive


Sorry.  I'm not familiar with converting into TinyURL.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
_______________________________________________

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 17:15:53 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 09:15:53 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C1DDAB5E-0432-432C-B5BD-DB62B0C93417@gmail.com>

Hi Bob. The issue is that when the plugs are screwed in, and  
tightened, they don't go in far enough for the end of the plug to go  
into the combustion chamber - as it does on all other Westlake  
designed heads. The plugs are up to 200 thou away from the roof of the  
combustion chamber in the 960 head.
So you machine the plug seat, on the outside of the head, where the  
plugs screw in. By removing metal from the head where the plug screws  
in and seats, you allow the plugs to be able to screw down so they  
reach the roof of the combustion chamber, as Harry Westlake originally  
designed it, and as the pics of other Westlake designed heads show.
Obviously measure each one.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 22/09/2011, at 1:07 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I couldn't get from Chris' page what the 'solution' is; mill out the  
> plug hole, or the inside of the chamber?
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> Chris & Mark,
> Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both  
> have the
> plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris' information &
> photographs.
> If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never  
> corrected
> it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance.
> Gary
>
>
>
>
> Chris and Gary,
>  also have an original works head.  It too has the AEC 721 number
> ast into the top.
> s an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after
> ours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently
> ade from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down.
> 've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or
> lue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also a
> light difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being
> onsidered the better designed one.
> ne of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8 with
> he 721.  He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in
> erformance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was  . . .  that
> as back in the 70s.
> Cheers
> ark Donaldson
> uckland. NZ

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Sep 21 17:16:16 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 23:16:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] clutch problem
In-Reply-To: <20110921185447.10525.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <1944930666.994003.1316646976829.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: " would it be a master cylinder problem?" 


Possibly your clutch flex line has collapsed internally, keeping pressure on the slave. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 11:54:47 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] clutch problem 

i think i have discovered the source of my clutch problem. after putting the new release bearing in and hooking up the slave cylinder, i discovered that the slave cylinder rod extended out to put pressure on the bearing. it is always pressing against the pressure plate ring. i do not think this is the way it is supposed to be. would it be a master cylinder problem? both were new when i rebuilt the car. i have temporarily relieved the pressure on the plate with a small spring, but the clutch pedal goes down about 2 inches before engaging when it has sat for a while. any ideas. hjim 

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 18:37:51 2011
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 20:37:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Great fun today
Message-ID: <A59B7844-552A-4D4E-BB74-A2483EFF15DA@gmail.com>

List member Richard Korn, from Iceland, drove his 13,000 mile BN2 up from CT
to SE Massachusetts today to see my "new" 33,000 mile '56 100M. The cars were
built 4 days apart in 1956. It was a great day driving cars and telling
stories.

His car is a delight to drive, very tight and solid. A very pretty, original
example.

Richard drove the my 100M and BJ8. The 1st 6 cylinder Healey he had driven.
Quite surprised by the difference but enjoyed the experience. Thanks for
coming up Richard and letting me drive your car. It was a treat!!!!  :-)

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M  White/Black
'56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 21 19:13:17 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:13:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <2067862132.976581.1316628510433.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1316653997.77519.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

While in college in the late 60s - early 70s, I pursued a liberal arts
degree.  I probably learned more, however, by hanging out at a local junkyard
and an autobody shop during the same period.  There I learned the important
terms of "gorilla snot" (what you refer to as "yellow snot") and "dum dum" 
(pliable rope caulk)  Sure, college taught me a lot about how to earn a
living,  but I'd be lost in the real world without all the lessons I received
in human nature, cheats, frauds, lyin' s.o.b.s and general skulduggery I
learned in the junkyard and autobody trade.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 9/21/11, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
To: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, September 21, 2011, 2:08 PM

My guess is the yellow stuff is 3M Trim Adhesive--aka 'yellow snot'--same as
the stuff you've got (it comes in black and yellow).

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 21 19:15:31 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:15:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt vs. New - was rebuilt water pump
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110921181510.020c6380@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I had my original mirror re-chromed and new glass cut. To me it looks 
far better than the reproduction stainless steel one I have.

My rebuilt shock links look great too when compared to the 
after-market ones as do many other restored and rebuilt items on my car.

Long term durability is still a question to be answered but I am 
willing to find.

However, as many people know, this is not always the least expensive 
nor the easiest route to go.

John Spaur
'62 BT7

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 19:16:56 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:16:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
In-Reply-To: <8CE46899A5A7F38-18A8-5D60D@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE461814063474-7CC-52010@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
	<000801cc7859$9f6c9e60$de45db20$@rr.com>
	<8CE46899A5A7F38-18A8-5D60D@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYo+GMOizyNzDOeX0yxysABGjVTU=bL-1auaHQOVbZZ+Vw@mail.gmail.com>

I replaced the water pump on my car during the restoration. It was not
leaking, but I thought I would do it as preventative maintenance. I see that
it is a County Water Pump, and I am leery that it will fail.... I have been
busy of late and have not been working on the car, but I am close to
restarting it.
I need to replace the oil pipe to my gauge( Moss supplied one was short),
hang my exhaust, dial in my Dizzy, install the radiator and hook up my water
hoses....
Almost there.

On Wed, Sep 21, 2011 at 8:23 AM, <wilkmanracing at aol.com> wrote:

>  The question in regard to rebuilt versus new is a matter of the quality of
> the  original part and the capability of the rebuilder.  I have generally
> given up buying new parts when an original part can be rebuilt.  I send my
> brake parts to White Post for resleeving and rebuilding and I have found
> they
> last much longer than reproductions currently available.  I send my
> generators, voltage regulators, and starters to British Auto Electric for
> rebuilding and I have found the quality of the work to be outstanding.
> Reproduction parts are often just not well made in the first place.  There
> can
> also be issues of reproduction parts not fitting.  I believe if you have an
> original part that has failed you are better off having it rebuilt than you
> are buying a new reproduction part.  The key is to find an outstanding
> rebuilding service.
>
> Bill Wilkman
> BT7, AN5
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2011 9:58 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
>
>
> My experience may be too old to be useful, but I have had a rebuilt water
> pump from TS Imported Automotive in Pandora, OH on my BJ8 since 1993.  It
> now has 82,000 miles on it.  I have never had any problem with it.
> http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of factodon at aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 9:51 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] rebuilt water pump
>
> Any experiences with re-built water pumps. for a BJ 8....positive or
> negative??  I have a couple of sources from  Hemmings..they want about
> 70-80
> %  of the cost of a new one.  I would appreciate any names of rebuilders
> that
> folks have had  a reliable product
> Thanks in advance
> Don Factor
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 21 20:34:14 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 22:34:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7B802D52-959B-46B4-BFC6-879767BCFF32@yahoo.com>

On my, PO reportedly original, BJ8 there's a screw at the top.

Greg
65BJ8

Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.


On Sep 21, 2011, at 10:39 AM, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:

> The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
> mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
> some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as
trim
> cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then
didn't
> hold.
>
> How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
> trim cement.
>
> Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get
the
> yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 21 21:22:09 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 20:22:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday funny #2
Message-ID: <001101cc78d6$d00ed830$702c8890$@ca>

 Don't ever marry a Barbie

 

One day a father gets out of work and on his way home he suddenly remembers
that it's his daughter's birthday. 

He pulls over to a Toy Shop and asks the sales person, 'How much for one of
those Barbie's in the display window?' The salesperson answers, 'Which one
do you mean, Sir? We have: Work Out Barbie for $19.95, Shopping Barbie for
$19.95, Beach Barbie for $19.95, Disco Barbie for $19.95, Ballerina Barbie
for $19.95, Astronaut Barbie for $19.95, Skater Barbie for $19.95, and
Divorced Barbie for $265.95'. 

The amazed father asks: 'It's what?! Why is the Divorced Barbie $265.95 and
the others only $19.95?' 

The annoyed salesperson rolls her eyes, sighs, and answers: 'Sir...,
Divorced Barbie comes with: Ken's Car, Ken's House, Ken's Boat, Ken's
Furniture, Ken's Computer, one of Ken's Friends, and a key chain made with
Ken's balls.

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed Sep 21 22:24:10 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 20:24:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?cylinder_head_questions?=
Message-ID: <20110922042410.7105.qmail@hoster902.com>

Cris,
My car has a 960 head. Were they only used on BJ8s?

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena CA
BN6 with 29D engine

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Sep 21 23:06:49 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 15:06:49 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <20110922042410.7105.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20110922042410.7105.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <7B49451E-EDB2-4559-9AD0-F763F454FF01@gmail.com>

No.
The 721 was the original 12 port head on the 12 port 100/6.
The 960 casting was subsequently used on most later 3000 engines -  
don't know the exact changeover.
So no 960 is not peculiar to the BJ8. At one point I thought it was,  
but it isn't.
There was also some weird 'smog'/ air head but I haven't ever seen it,  
don't know the casting number.
The 'majority' of c series 12 port heads are 721 (100/6) or 960 (3000).
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 22/09/2011, at 2:24 PM, "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>  
wrote:

> Cris,
> My car has a 960 head. Were they only used on BJ8s?
>
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena CA
> BN6 with 29D engine

From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Wed Sep 21 23:41:11 2011
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 17:41:11 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <C1DDAB5E-0432-432C-B5BD-DB62B0C93417@gmail.com>
References: <2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<C1DDAB5E-0432-432C-B5BD-DB62B0C93417@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6BD42E1ABD164345AAEBAFDB669CBFA3@IBMD038403EC0B>

Chris,
Can I assume you made the spark plug hole mods to your BJ8 - CD 3000.
If so, was there a noticeable improvement in performance?
In particular I was wondering about idling, and pickup response when
you accelerate.

Cheers
Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, 22 September 2011 11:16 a.m.
To: Bob Spidell; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

Hi Bob. The issue is that when the plugs are screwed in, and  
tightened, they don't go in far enough for the end of the plug to go  
into the combustion chamber - as it does on all other Westlake  
designed heads. The plugs are up to 200 thou away from the roof of the

combustion chamber in the 960 head.
So you machine the plug seat, on the outside of the head, where the  
plugs screw in. By removing metal from the head where the plug screws

in and seats, you allow the plugs to be able to screw down so they  
reach the roof of the combustion chamber, as Harry Westlake originally

designed it, and as the pics of other Westlake designed heads show.
Obviously measure each one.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 22/09/2011, at 1:07 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I couldn't get from Chris' page what the 'solution' is; mill out the

> plug hole, or the inside of the chamber?
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> Chris & Mark,
> Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both  
> have the
> plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris' information &
> photographs.
> If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never

> corrected
> it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance.
> Gary
>
>
>
>
> Chris and Gary,
> I also have an original works head.  It too has the AEC 721 number
> cast into the top.
> As an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after
> ours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently
> ade from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down.
> 've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or
> lue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also
a
> light difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being
> onsidered the better designed one.
> ne of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8
with
> he 721.  He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in
> erformance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was  . . .
that
> as back in the 70s.
> Cheers
> Mark Donaldson
> Auckland. NZ

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Sep 22 00:25:50 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 08:25:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <00f001cc78af$62e8b6d0$28ba2470$@ca>
References: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
	<2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<00f001cc78af$62e8b6d0$28ba2470$@ca>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F15F925@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Why should I do that??
It worked as it is (as it was done by the factory) for 50 years with my car
and all others, so it will work another 30 years of my live!
If I want it different I would buy a new aluminium head.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von PG
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. September 2011 00:40
An: 'Bob Spidell'; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz; healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

You mill out the plug hole from the outside so that the sparkplug goes deeper
into the cylinder and the spark gap is not shrouded.......ideally you then
index the plug to face the chamber....the milling is about .25"

My machine shop was initially nervous about doing it as he was worried about
the remaining strength.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 8:08 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

I couldn't get from Chris' page what the 'solution' is; mill out the plug
hole, or the inside of the chamber?

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

----- Original Message -----


Chris & Mark,
Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both have the
plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris' information &
photographs.
If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never corrected
it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance.
Gary




Chris and Gary,
also have an original works head. It too has the AEC 721 number ast into the
top.
s an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after ours' when
production had stopped for the day. They were apparently ade from recycled
diff. heads that had been melted down.
've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or lue-printed
either of them, but I have been told that there is also a light difference in
the squish area in the heads, the 721 being onsidered the better designed one.
ne of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8 with he 721.
He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in erformance. I don't know how
scientific his analysis was . . . that as back in the 70s.
Cheers
ark Donaldson
uckland. NZ
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef.eckert at t-systems.com

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Sep 22 01:21:23 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 17:21:23 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <6BD42E1ABD164345AAEBAFDB669CBFA3@IBMD038403EC0B>
References: <2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<C1DDAB5E-0432-432C-B5BD-DB62B0C93417@gmail.com>
	<6BD42E1ABD164345AAEBAFDB669CBFA3@IBMD038403EC0B>
Message-ID: <EBCC86F6-68D1-41A1-92D6-FA92F4D160E9@gmail.com>

Hi Mark, yes, we made that mod on my black and white car.
But it was done during the total rebuild.  So when the car came off  
the road it had triple webers etc, but the engine  was pretty tired.  
When it went back on the road 6 months later, it had the spark plug  
seat mod, but also Cosworth pistons, roller rockers, a 300 degree cam,  
higher compression, lighter everthing else, a straight cut close ratio  
gearbox and a total rebuild of everything (body, chassis, mechanicals)  
- everything except the interior. It still has it's original dash and  
original leather seats.
So any comparision from my end is moot.
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone

On 22/09/2011, at 3:41 PM, <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> wrote:

> Chris,
> Can I assume you made the spark plug hole mods to your BJ8 - CD 3000.
> If so, was there a noticeable improvement in performance?
> In particular I was wondering about idling, and pickup response when
> you accelerate.
>
> Cheers
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 22 September 2011 11:16 a.m.
> To: Bob Spidell; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
>
> Hi Bob. The issue is that when the plugs are screwed in, and
> tightened, they don't go in far enough for the end of the plug to go
> into the combustion chamber - as it does on all other Westlake
> designed heads. The plugs are up to 200 thou away from the roof of the
>
> combustion chamber in the 960 head.
> So you machine the plug seat, on the outside of the head, where the
> plugs screw in. By removing metal from the head where the plug screws
>
> in and seats, you allow the plugs to be able to screw down so they
> reach the roof of the combustion chamber, as Harry Westlake originally
>
> designed it, and as the pics of other Westlake designed heads show.
> Obviously measure each one.
> Best
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 22/09/2011, at 1:07 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I couldn't get from Chris' page what the 'solution' is; mill out the
>
>> plug hole, or the inside of the chamber?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> --------------------------------
>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> Chris & Mark,
>> Thanks for the information. I checked my two 960 heads & they both
>> have the
>> plugs recessed in the combustion chamber as per Chris' information &
>> photographs.
>> If this is a machining mistake it is still a mystery why they never
>
>> corrected
>> it. And why the BJ8 is the only model a greater advance.
>> Gary
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Chris and Gary,
>> I also have an original works head.  It too has the AEC 721 number
>> cast into the top.
>> As an aside, I was told long ago that the heads were made 'after
>> ours' when production had stopped for the day. They were apparently
>> ade from recycled diff. heads that had been melted down.
>> 've not done a side-by-side comparison of the 721 and the 960 or
>> lue-printed either of them, but I have been told that there is also
> a
>> light difference in the squish area in the heads, the 721 being
>> onsidered the better designed one.
>> ne of our racers here in NZ actually replaced the 960 on his BJ8
> with
>> he 721.  He reckoned it gave him a marginal improvement in
>> erformance. I don't know how scientific his analysis was  . . .
> that
>> as back in the 70s.
>> Cheers
>> Mark Donaldson
>> Auckland. NZ

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Sep 22 04:51:06 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 20:51:06 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F15F925@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
References: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
	<2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<00f001cc78af$62e8b6d0$28ba2470$@ca>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F15F925@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <EFC55987-4056-4B5F-AA59-3E38D2BD0E6E@gmail.com>

Hi Josef.
I'm sorry. I pretty much just use my phone on this email account. I  
couldn't remember who guided me to the original casting numbers, a few  
years back, and corrected me on the 960 being just for BJ8's. I'm  
pretty sure it was was you. Thanks for that.
As you said. If all is fine, don't change it. But if you want your car  
to perform as it was originally "designed", then this is a serious  
issue. Harry Westlake designed BMC A, B and C series heads. And 100/4  
heads. His name "Westlake patents" is cast into many BMC products.   
Harry NEVER wrote in his patents "it's ok if the end of the spark plug  
is give or take a couple of hundred thou up the spark plug hole".
Well. Not in the paper ones I read.
If your car is ok, that's fine.
I'm just trying to help other owners (with info Peter Molloy  
identified in my engine rebuild 12 years ago - and Peter is the only  
race engineer in the Australian Motorsports hall of fame).
And I got around to taking pics a year ago. And I've spent 5 years in  
a very nasty divorce, so maybe I'm just lazy.
But generally, I've shared most "secret squirrel" Healey performance  
stuff that I found in my Healey, that many Healey guys never share  
publically. I ALWAYS have shared.
Personally, my philosphy is I'm happy to help a Healey beat a Jag, an  
MG, a Triumph etc. I really don't care if I help another Healey beat  
me. Never cared.  I want Healeys to win. Who cares who's Healey it is.  
It's about Healeys being up there. I'm not alone. Why does e.g Rich or  
Roger or David or whoever tell everyone what is concours correct?  
Because they want to see a higher standard. Me? I'm the same, but from  
a performance perspective.
If you are happy with your head - you shouldn't  do it.
Yeah. A 960 head "works". So do stub axles on non BJ8 3000's. Should  
you crack test your non BJ8 stub axles?
It's your call. You dont need to crack test them because they work?
Geoff Healey was compelled enough to write a tech Bulletin to explain  
that non BJ8 stub axles will fail in competition. Back in about 1990.
About 25 years after the cars were out of production, Geoff wrote an  
article warning about failure rates of pre BJ8 stub axles. Over 50%  
failure rates.
If you've got pre BJ8 stub axles, and never had yours crack tested,  
and they are "fine", and you know the intimate history of your car,  
then all is good in your garage. Or not?
You asked "Why should you do that?"
You don't have to do anything. It's your car. I'm just sharing my  
information.  Take it all with a grain of salt.
Everyone has an opinion. Even Geoff Healey.
This list is for sharing information.
Asking "why should I do that???" is not conducive to people presenting  
opinions, and evidence to prove their opinions. Look at the pics on my  
website. You tell me how you have a correctly machined 960 head.
Sincerely.
Chris
PS the aluminium head you but WON'T be based on the 960 design, if  
it's FIA approved as a homologated replacement.


Sent from my iPhone

On 22/09/2011, at 4:25 PM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:

> Why should I do that??
> It worked as it is (as it was done by the factory) for 50 years with  
> my car
> and all others, so it will work another 30 years of my live!
> If I want it different I would buy a new aluminium head.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von PG
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. September 2011 00:40
> An: 'Bob Spidell'; warthodson at aol.com
> Cc: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz; healeys at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
>
> You mill out the plug hole from the outside so that the sparkplug  
> goes deeper
> into the cylinder and the spark gap is not shrouded.......ideally  
> you then
> index the plug to face the chamber....the milling is about .25"
>
> My machine shop was initially nervous about doing it as he was  
> worried about
> the remaining strength.
>
> Paul

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Sep 22 06:58:53 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 08:58:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Great fun today
In-Reply-To: <A59B7844-552A-4D4E-BB74-A2483EFF15DA@gmail.com>
References: <A59B7844-552A-4D4E-BB74-A2483EFF15DA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000601cc7927$61a3c530$24eb4f90$@net>

Randy,

You guys have all the fun. Wish I'd been there.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randy Hicks
Sent: 2011-09-21 8:38
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Great fun today

List member Richard Korn, from Iceland, drove his 13,000 mile BN2 up from CT
to SE Massachusetts today to see my "new" 33,000 mile '56 100M. The cars
were
built 4 days apart in 1956. It was a great day driving cars and telling
stories.

His car is a delight to drive, very tight and solid. A very pretty, original
example.

Richard drove the my 100M and BJ8. The 1st 6 cylinder Healey he had driven.
Quite surprised by the difference but enjoyed the experience. Thanks for
coming up Richard and letting me drive your car. It was a treat!!!!  :-)

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M  White/Black
'56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Sep 22 07:03:06 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 09:03:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <7B802D52-959B-46B4-BFC6-879767BCFF32@yahoo.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
	<7B802D52-959B-46B4-BFC6-879767BCFF32@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000701cc7927$f85fdfe0$e91f9fa0$@net>

Greg,
 
Yes, that is correct for the factory to have installed a very small screw at
the top of the door seal's climb up the shut pillar edge, right where the
furflex has to make a very abrupt and tight turn and leap over to the top
edge of the rear quarter trim panel.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Mandas
Sent: 2011-09-21 10:34
To: Jack Feldman
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Furflex Problem

On my, PO reportedly original, BJ8 there's a screw at the top.

Greg
65BJ8

Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.


On Sep 21, 2011, at 10:39 AM, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:

> The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
> mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
> some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as
trim
> cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then
didn't
> hold.
>
> How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
> trim cement.
>
> Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get
the
> yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Sep 22 07:51:17 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 15:51:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <EFC55987-4056-4B5F-AA59-3E38D2BD0E6E@gmail.com>
References: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
	<2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<00f001cc78af$62e8b6d0$28ba2470$@ca>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F15F925@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<EFC55987-4056-4B5F-AA59-3E38D2BD0E6E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E7B3D55.6020807@chello.nl>

Oh dear, oh dear, here we go again.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Thu Sep 22 08:05:10 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 09:05:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem Resolved
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-fJGtY-hehyKag2FmO+DAi2BDre44vO=ypzdeRGu0dFxw@mail.gmail.com>

In response to some inquiries. I bought it from the founder of MGC register
at an annual event.

It is the aluminum type, which explains why it failed.

As soon as I click on SEND, I will call McGregor!

Thanks to all the wonderful folks who answered, end even those who thought
about it but never did!

Jack

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Thu Sep 22 08:27:18 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 10:27:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE474ADDC84320-18A8-6B22F@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>

 Moss sells two types of furflex.  One is crap and the other works great.  I
bought the crap at first for my Sprite and had the same experience as you.
Sent it back and bought the more expensive stuff.  It works great.  Don't know
why Moss still sells the crap.




 Bill Wilkman
BT7, AN5



-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2011 11:51 am
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem


The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as trim
cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then didn't
hold.

How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
trim cement.

Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get the
yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?

Thanks,

Jack
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu Sep 22 10:35:13 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 09:35:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <8CE474ADDC84320-18A8-6B22F@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CE474ADDC84320-18A8-6B22F@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <002001cc7945$9b0c4a40$d124dec0$@ca>

Moss get's its higher Quality Furflex from McGregor.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2011 7:27 AM
To: qualitas.jack at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Furflex Problem

 Moss sells two types of furflex.  One is crap and the other works great.  I
bought the crap at first for my Sprite and had the same experience as you.
Sent it back and bought the more expensive stuff.  It works great.  Don't
know
why Moss still sells the crap.




 Bill Wilkman
BT7, AN5



-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2011 11:51 am
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem


The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as trim
cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then didn't
hold.

How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
trim cement.

Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get the
yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?

Thanks,

Jack
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep 22 10:46:52 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 16:46:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <8CE474ADDC84320-18A8-6B22F@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <458617231.1025054.1316710012891.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: " Don't know why Moss still sells the crap." 


Because some people want cheap above all else. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Moss sells two types of furflex. One is crap and the other works great. I 
bought the crap at first for my Sprite and had the same experience as you. 
Sent it back and bought the more expensive stuff. It works great. Don't know 
why Moss still sells the crap. 




Bill Wilkman 
BT7, AN5 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Sep 22 11:28:55 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 13:28:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <8CE474ADDC84320-18A8-6B22F@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CE474ADDC84320-18A8-6B22F@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001b01cc794d$1aae8770$500b9650$@net>

The more expensive stuff is actually Martin MacGregor's "Bristleflex".

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com
Sent: 2011-09-22 10:27
To: qualitas.jack at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Furflex Problem

 Moss sells two types of furflex.  One is crap and the other works great.  I
bought the crap at first for my Sprite and had the same experience as you.
Sent it back and bought the more expensive stuff.  It works great.  Don't
know
why Moss still sells the crap.




 Bill Wilkman
BT7, AN5



-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2011 11:51 am
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem


The fuzzy trim around the door of my BT7 won't stay in place. At first the
mechanic just pinched the metal part. That didn't stay on. Next he tried
some sort of (trim?) cement which is yellow, and not at all flexible as trim
cement should be. I suspect he used something that dried out and then didn't
hold.

How do I get the trim to stay in place? I do have a nice fresh tube of 3M
trim cement.

Does anyone have a guess as to what the yellow stuff is and how do I get the
yellow stuff, which dried  solid, off the car?

Thanks,

Jack
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep 22 11:53:29 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 12:53:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem
In-Reply-To: <8CE474ADDC84320-18A8-6B22F@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CAGhWe-faj==0QS=bgRYaS9KUPzyCYPGJLhkwv5t-_bLbt3U7Pw@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CE474ADDC84320-18A8-6B22F@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E7B7619.1060508@justbrits.com>

<< Don't know why Moss still sells the crap. >>

Simple, Bill <G> !  "SMART" folks KNOW it's "crap" but figure
they can make it work and save money ! !

'Course  3 or 4 hours of their time, couple different 'containers'
of different 'glues', couple phone calls seeking buddys "Help"<G>,
and last but not lease --- call to Moss [for Marty's Product<G>]
or call to Marty [direct] to order the CORRECT [ "Furflex"]
stuff <VBG> ! ! ! !

Ed

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Sep 22 12:35:23 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 20:35:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <EFC55987-4056-4B5F-AA59-3E38D2BD0E6E@gmail.com>
References: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
	<2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<00f001cc78af$62e8b6d0$28ba2470$@ca>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F15F925@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<EFC55987-4056-4B5F-AA59-3E38D2BD0E6E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F1D09BA@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Hi Chris,
I see the "thicker" cylinder head wall around the spark plugs as an
improvement to the 100 and 100/6 cylinder head castings. The earlier heads are
prone to have hairline cracks from valves to the spark plug hole. This might
be cured with the thicker wall. Often factory modifications had good reasons.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. September 2011 12:51
An: Eckert, Josef
Cc: <britishcars at shaw.ca>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

Hi Josef.
I'm sorry. I pretty much just use my phone on this email account. I couldn't
remember who guided me to the original casting numbers, a few years back, and
corrected me on the 960 being just for BJ8's. I'm pretty sure it was was you.
Thanks for that.
As you said. If all is fine, don't change it. But if you want your car to
perform as it was originally "designed", then this is a serious issue. Harry
Westlake designed BMC A, B and C series heads. And 100/4
heads. His name "Westlake patents" is cast into many BMC products.
Harry NEVER wrote in his patents "it's ok if the end of the spark plug is give
or take a couple of hundred thou up the spark plug hole".
Well. Not in the paper ones I read.
If your car is ok, that's fine.
I'm just trying to help other owners (with info Peter Molloy identified in my
engine rebuild 12 years ago - and Peter is the only race engineer in the
Australian Motorsports hall of fame).
And I got around to taking pics a year ago. And I've spent 5 years in a very
nasty divorce, so maybe I'm just lazy.
But generally, I've shared most "secret squirrel" Healey performance stuff
that I found in my Healey, that many Healey guys never share publically. I
ALWAYS have shared.
Personally, my philosphy is I'm happy to help a Healey beat a Jag, an MG, a
Triumph etc. I really don't care if I help another Healey beat me. Never
cared.  I want Healeys to win. Who cares who's Healey it is.
It's about Healeys being up there. I'm not alone. Why does e.g Rich or Roger
or David or whoever tell everyone what is concours correct?
Because they want to see a higher standard. Me? I'm the same, but from a
performance perspective.
If you are happy with your head - you shouldn't  do it.
Yeah. A 960 head "works". So do stub axles on non BJ8 3000's. Should you crack
test your non BJ8 stub axles?
It's your call. You dont need to crack test them because they work?
Geoff Healey was compelled enough to write a tech Bulletin to explain that non
BJ8 stub axles will fail in competition. Back in about 1990.
About 25 years after the cars were out of production, Geoff wrote an article
warning about failure rates of pre BJ8 stub axles. Over 50% failure rates.
If you've got pre BJ8 stub axles, and never had yours crack tested, and they
are "fine", and you know the intimate history of your car, then all is good in
your garage. Or not?
You asked "Why should you do that?"
You don't have to do anything. It's your car. I'm just sharing my information.
Take it all with a grain of salt.
Everyone has an opinion. Even Geoff Healey.
This list is for sharing information.
Asking "why should I do that???" is not conducive to people presenting
opinions, and evidence to prove their opinions. Look at the pics on my
website. You tell me how you have a correctly machined 960 head.
Sincerely.
Chris
PS the aluminium head you but WON'T be based on the 960 design, if it's FIA
approved as a homologated replacement.

From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 22 12:43:34 2011
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 11:43:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Cylinder Head Question
Message-ID: <1316717014.97679.YahooMailClassic@web160606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Just a thought .. spark plugs come in 'ER'  - Extended Reach - designations,
ie, the threaded portion of the plug is longer than 'normal'  plugs .. Could
these heads have been originally made for these "ER" plugs?

   Jim

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Sep 22 13:56:18 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 21:56:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F1D09D7@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Hi Chris,
I see the "thicker" cylinder head wall around the spark plugs as an
improvement to the 100 and 100/6 cylinder head castings. The earlier heads are
prone to have hairline cracks from valves to the spark plug hole. This might
be cured with the thicker wall. Often factory modifications had good reasons.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany



Hi Josef.
I'm sorry. I pretty much just use my phone on this email account. I couldn't
remember who guided me to the original casting numbers, a few years back, and
corrected me on the 960 being just for BJ8's. I'm pretty sure it was was you.
Thanks for that.
As you said. If all is fine, don't change it. But if you want your car to
perform as it was originally "designed", then this is a serious issue. Harry
Westlake designed BMC A, B and C series heads. And 100/4
heads. His name "Westlake patents" is cast into many BMC products.
Harry NEVER wrote in his patents "it's ok if the end of the spark plug is give
or take a couple of hundred thou up the spark plug hole".
Well. Not in the paper ones I read.
If your car is ok, that's fine.
I'm just trying to help other owners (with info Peter Molloy identified in my
engine rebuild 12 years ago - and Peter is the only race engineer in the
Australian Motorsports hall of fame).
And I got around to taking pics a year ago. And I've spent 5 years in a very
nasty divorce, so maybe I'm just lazy.
But generally, I've shared most "secret squirrel" Healey performance stuff
that I found in my Healey, that many Healey guys never share publically. I
ALWAYS have shared.
Personally, my philosphy is I'm happy to help a Healey beat a Jag, an MG, a
Triumph etc. I really don't care if I help another Healey beat me. Never
cared.  I want Healeys to win. Who cares who's Healey it is.
It's about Healeys being up there. I'm not alone. Why does e.g Rich or Roger
or David or whoever tell everyone what is concours correct?
Because they want to see a higher standard. Me? I'm the same, but from a
performance perspective.
If you are happy with your head - you shouldn't  do it.
Yeah. A 960 head "works". So do stub axles on non BJ8 3000's. Should you crack
test your non BJ8 stub axles?
It's your call. You dont need to crack test them because they work?
Geoff Healey was compelled enough to write a tech Bulletin to explain that non
BJ8 stub axles will fail in competition. Back in about 1990.
About 25 years after the cars were out of production, Geoff wrote an article
warning about failure rates of pre BJ8 stub axles. Over 50% failure rates.
If you've got pre BJ8 stub axles, and never had yours crack tested, and they
are "fine", and you know the intimate history of your car, then all is good in
your garage. Or not?
You asked "Why should you do that?"
You don't have to do anything. It's your car. I'm just sharing my information.
Take it all with a grain of salt.
Everyone has an opinion. Even Geoff Healey.
This list is for sharing information.
Asking "why should I do that???" is not conducive to people presenting
opinions, and evidence to prove their opinions. Look at the pics on my
website. You tell me how you have a correctly machined 960 head.
Sincerely.
Chris
PS the aluminium head you but WON'T be based on the 960 design, if it's FIA
approved as a homologated replacement.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Sep 22 15:19:31 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 16:19:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Cylinder Head Question
In-Reply-To: <1316717014.97679.YahooMailClassic@web160606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1316717014.97679.YahooMailClassic@web160606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F140BC7D80574A24846896FD60A54788@GregPC>

I was having a similar conversation with Chris Dimmock offline, wondering if 
a longer reach plug was an option, he said when he machined the head it was 
already off and being modified and he couldn't find an appropriate plug 
anyway.

Not to say there might not be one for those who don't have or plan to have 
their head off in the near future and want to try it.

Heck if you found the right plug you could swap out and do some empirical 
tests would think if the plug in the chamber makes it more effiecient maybe 
and MPG test would be in order with standaard and long reach plugs..

Found a website that lets you search plugs by spec, but didn't go through 
the effort of actually trying to find an approperiate plug. 
http://www.sparkplugs.com/search_char.asp   Looks like a handy site for 
tuners in any event, as the parts stores seem to only be able to find plugs 
by "what's it for?" and plugging year make and model into the computer these 
days.

Of course you would not want to go too long and have anything striking 
anything as the motor goes round and round...

Greg Lemon


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jim" <ab7vf at yahoo.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2011 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cylinder Head Question


> Just a thought .. spark plugs come in 'ER'  - Extended Reach - 
> designations,
> ie, the threaded portion of the plug is longer than 'normal'  plugs .. 
> Could
> these heads have been originally made for these "ER" plugs?
>
>   Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep 22 15:43:25 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 21:43:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Cylinder Head Question
In-Reply-To: <1316717014.97679.YahooMailClassic@web160606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <939690995.1042036.1316727805227.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My BJ8 manual calls for 'Champion NY12' plugs (IIRC); no mention of 'ER.' 

Possible idea, though. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Just a thought .. spark plugs come in 'ER' - Extended Reach - designations, 
ie, the threaded portion of the plug is longer than 'normal' plugs .. Could 
these heads have been originally made for these "ER" plugs? 

Jim 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 22 16:03:28 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 15:03:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem Resolved
In-Reply-To: <CAGhWe-fJGtY-hehyKag2FmO+DAi2BDre44vO=ypzdeRGu0dFxw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1316729008.44224.YahooMailClassic@web180107.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

FyI,  Moss carrys the Bristle Flex now if you don't want to wait for Mr
Macgreggor.
 
Mark

--- On Thu, 9/22/11, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex Problem Resolved
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, September 22, 2011, 10:05 AM


In response to some inquiries. I bought it from the founder of MGC register
at an annual event.

It is the aluminum type, which explains why it failed.

As soon as I click on SEND, I will call McGregor!

Thanks to all the wonderful folks who answered, end even those who thought
about it but never did!

Jack
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Thu Sep 22 17:25:56 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 18:25:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Furflex
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-dpBtDpaxqGK3LhyzyXUao3ekAXq=Qnb5Wx7pG6y7xuGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Didn't realized what I had started.

As indicated in the last post I called McGregor. As Ed indicated,
interesting chap. My car is Colorado Red over Black with a red interior. He
produces two versions of red according to him. A traditional bright red, and
a more subdued red that he said most people want.

He wouldn't take my order until he sends me a sample of each. He did mention
that the stuff was selling so well that he is behind. Hope I get it before
winter sets in. It sounds worth it.

I'll check my Moss catalog, but would rather deal with an individual rather
than a company.

Jack

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep 22 19:07:57 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 20:07:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] B-J
Message-ID: <4E7BDBED.4040400@justbrits.com>

Check our the P/U on Speed !?!?!?!?

Ed

From davzu29 at cox.net  Fri Sep 23 00:49:18 2011
From: davzu29 at cox.net (davzu29 at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 2:49:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] I am finally became Boss.
Message-ID: <20110923024918.11XKI.1791784.imail@eastrmwml30>

Hey there.
I had reached my wits end I cant believe how much this exceeded expectations my success was effortless just wanted to share the wealth
http://apartmani-tereza.com/AnthonyKing62.html
c ya...

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Fri Sep 23 06:13:04 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 14:13:04 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <DBD914FE-53BD-4453-B5FB-6DA8B392CC11@bellsouth.net>
References: <8CE467660D911F2-1AD8-88B74@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com>
	<2130604611.964121.1316617675183.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<00f001cc78af$62e8b6d0$28ba2470$@ca>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F15F925@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<EFC55987-4056-4B5F-AA59-3E38D2BD0E6E@gmail.com>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F1D09BA@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<DBD914FE-53BD-4453-B5FB-6DA8B392CC11@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F1D0F41@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Hi Barry,
With my 100 I went with a new alloy head. When its painted this head is very
hardly distinguishable from an original head (at least from the outside). I
keep the good cast iron original one in my shelf in the loft.
No thicker version was made for the BN2. So you only have the alternative of
an alloy head instead of the cast iron original one.
The 960 head was introduced with the early 3000 MK1s and is common to all
3000s up.

Josef Eckert

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Dr. Barry Simmons [mailto:bsdds at bellsouth.net]
Gesendet: Freitag, 23. September 2011 00:04
An: Eckert, Josef
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

Hi Josef, So what model is your recommendation for a "thicker"
cylinder head for a 1956 100M. I am in the process of searching/ buying  an M
and wondered whether I should buy the alloy version from Denis Welch to avoid
the hairline cracks of the "thinner" version?
 From your note to Chris, do I understand the 960 was just for the BJ8? Was
there a thicker version made for the BN2? Thank you for your help with this.
Barry Simmons On Sep 22, 2011, at 2:35 PM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>
wrote:

> Hi Chris,
> I see the "thicker" cylinder head wall around the spark plugs as an
> improvement to the 100 and 100/6 cylinder head castings. The earlier
> heads are prone to have hairline cracks from valves to the spark plug
> hole.
> This might
> be cured with the thicker wall. Often factory modifications had good
> reasons.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany

From agrossman at pacific.net  Fri Sep 23 09:06:57 2011
From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 08:06:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
Message-ID: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>

Hi,
My "restored" BN4 is missing the exhaust heat shield. No wonder it's so hot in
there! Given the Moss price it seems like something that would be pretty easy
to fabricate. Of course I don't know exactly what that entails since I don't
have an exemplar. Any thoughts?

Also, the seat runner above it has extra long bolts in it, that are obviously
not the originals. Before I tack in some shorter ones, I want to make sure
that those are not attachment points for the missing shield.

Thx, Alan
Norcal
1958 BN 4

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Sep 23 09:17:05 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 01:17:05 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F1D09D7@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
References: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F1D09D7@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <1D62CAE8-D616-4609-A9DC-E865734B427B@gmail.com>

Josef, the "extra" metal is no where near the valves. Read what I  
posted. It is on the outside of the head where the spark plug seats,  
not in the combustion chamber.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 23/09/2011, at 5:56 AM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:

> Hi Chris,
> I see the "thicker" cylinder head wall around the spark plugs as an
> improvement to the 100 and 100/6 cylinder head castings. The earlier  
> heads are
> prone to have hairline cracks from valves to the spark plug hole.  
> This might
> be cured with the thicker wall. Often factory modifications had good  
> reasons.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
>
>
> Hi Josef.
> I'm sorry. I pretty much just use my phone on this email account. I  
> couldn't
> remember who guided me to the original casting numbers, a few years  
> back, and
> corrected me on the 960 being just for BJ8's. I'm pretty sure it was  
> was you.
> Thanks for that.
> As you said. If all is fine, don't change it. But if you want your  
> car to
> perform as it was originally "designed", then this is a serious  
> issue. Harry
> Westlake designed BMC A, B and C series heads. And 100/4
> heads. His name "Westlake patents" is cast into many BMC products.
> Harry NEVER wrote in his patents "it's ok if the end of the spark  
> plug is give
> or take a couple of hundred thou up the spark plug hole".
> Well. Not in the paper ones I read.
> If your car is ok, that's fine.
> I'm just trying to help other owners (with info Peter Molloy  
> identified in my
> engine rebuild 12 years ago - and Peter is the only race engineer in  
> the
> Australian Motorsports hall of fame).
> And I got around to taking pics a year ago. And I've spent 5 years  
> in a very
> nasty divorce, so maybe I'm just lazy.
> But generally, I've shared most "secret squirrel" Healey performance  
> stuff
> that I found in my Healey, that many Healey guys never share  
> publically. I
> ALWAYS have shared.
> Personally, my philosphy is I'm happy to help a Healey beat a Jag,  
> an MG, a
> Triumph etc. I really don't care if I help another Healey beat me.  
> Never
> cared.  I want Healeys to win. Who cares who's Healey it is.
> It's about Healeys being up there. I'm not alone. Why does e.g Rich  
> or Roger
> or David or whoever tell everyone what is concours correct?
> Because they want to see a higher standard. Me? I'm the same, but  
> from a
> performance perspective.
> If you are happy with your head - you shouldn't  do it.
> Yeah. A 960 head "works". So do stub axles on non BJ8 3000's. Should  
> you crack
> test your non BJ8 stub axles?
> It's your call. You dont need to crack test them because they work?
> Geoff Healey was compelled enough to write a tech Bulletin to  
> explain that non
> BJ8 stub axles will fail in competition. Back in about 1990.
> About 25 years after the cars were out of production, Geoff wrote an  
> article
> warning about failure rates of pre BJ8 stub axles. Over 50% failure  
> rates.
> If you've got pre BJ8 stub axles, and never had yours crack tested,  
> and they
> are "fine", and you know the intimate history of your car, then all  
> is good in
> your garage. Or not?
> You asked "Why should you do that?"
> You don't have to do anything. It's your car. I'm just sharing my  
> information.
> Take it all with a grain of salt.
> Everyone has an opinion. Even Geoff Healey.
> This list is for sharing information.
> Asking "why should I do that???" is not conducive to people presenting
> opinions, and evidence to prove their opinions. Look at the pics on my
> website. You tell me how you have a correctly machined 960 head.
> Sincerely.
> Chris
> PS the aluminium head you but WON'T be based on the 960 design, if  
> it's FIA
> approved as a homologated replacement.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Sep 23 12:00:02 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 14:00:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>
Message-ID: <4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>

Alan,
The heat shield above the muffler didn't come along until the Mk.II 
model, so it is correct that your BN4 does not have it.  Why not 
insulate under the carpet to keep the heat out?  While you are at it 
upgrade the insulation under all of the carpet.  You will find many 
using expensive products like Dynamat and Koolmat, but you can have very 
good luck with less expensive products also.
Check 
http://www.jcwhitney.com/heat/sound-insulation/p2010475.jcwx?filterid=j1
Charlie

On 9/23/2011 11:06 AM, Alan Grossman wrote:
> Hi,
> My "restored" BN4 is missing the exhaust heat shield. No wonder it's so hot in
> there! Given the Moss price it seems like something that would be pretty easy
> to fabricate. Of course I don't know exactly what that entails since I don't
> have an exemplar. Any thoughts?
>
> Also, the seat runner above it has extra long bolts in it, that are obviously
> not the originals. Before I tack in some shorter ones, I want to make sure
> that those are not attachment points for the missing shield.
>
> Thx, Alan
> Norcal
> 1958 BN 4
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Fri Sep 23 12:53:39 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 20:53:39 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] cylinder head questions
In-Reply-To: <1D62CAE8-D616-4609-A9DC-E865734B427B@gmail.com>
References: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F1D09D7@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<1D62CAE8-D616-4609-A9DC-E865734B427B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB601F1D10F7@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Chris,
You think yours, I think mine and keep the head as it is. I learnt all
modifications from factory spec cause troubles more or less.
What works for such a long time is good enough for me.
Josef

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Freitag, 23. September 2011 17:17
An: Eckert, Josef; healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] cylinder head questions

Josef, the "extra" metal is no where near the valves. Read what I posted. It
is on the outside of the head where the spark plug seats, not in the
combustion chamber.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 23/09/2011, at 5:56 AM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:

> Hi Chris,
> I see the "thicker" cylinder head wall around the spark plugs as an
> improvement to the 100 and 100/6 cylinder head castings. The earlier
> heads are prone to have hairline cracks from valves to the spark plug
> hole.
> This might
> be cured with the thicker wall. Often factory modifications had good
> reasons.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
>
>
> Hi Josef.
> I'm sorry. I pretty much just use my phone on this email account. I
> couldn't remember who guided me to the original casting numbers, a few
> years back, and corrected me on the 960 being just for BJ8's. I'm
> pretty sure it was was you.
> Thanks for that.
> As you said. If all is fine, don't change it. But if you want your car
> to perform as it was originally "designed", then this is a serious
> issue. Harry Westlake designed BMC A, B and C series heads. And 100/4
> heads. His name "Westlake patents" is cast into many BMC products.
> Harry NEVER wrote in his patents "it's ok if the end of the spark plug
> is give or take a couple of hundred thou up the spark plug hole".
> Well. Not in the paper ones I read.
> If your car is ok, that's fine.
> I'm just trying to help other owners (with info Peter Molloy
> identified in my engine rebuild 12 years ago - and Peter is the only
> race engineer in the Australian Motorsports hall of fame).
> And I got around to taking pics a year ago. And I've spent 5 years in
> a very nasty divorce, so maybe I'm just lazy.
> But generally, I've shared most "secret squirrel" Healey performance
> stuff that I found in my Healey, that many Healey guys never share
> publically. I ALWAYS have shared.
> Personally, my philosphy is I'm happy to help a Healey beat a Jag, an
> MG, a Triumph etc. I really don't care if I help another Healey beat
> me.
> Never
> cared.  I want Healeys to win. Who cares who's Healey it is.
> It's about Healeys being up there. I'm not alone. Why does e.g Rich or
> Roger or David or whoever tell everyone what is concours correct?
> Because they want to see a higher standard. Me? I'm the same, but from
> a performance perspective.
> If you are happy with your head - you shouldn't  do it.
> Yeah. A 960 head "works". So do stub axles on non BJ8 3000's. Should
> you crack test your non BJ8 stub axles?
> It's your call. You dont need to crack test them because they work?
> Geoff Healey was compelled enough to write a tech Bulletin to explain
> that non
> BJ8 stub axles will fail in competition. Back in about 1990.
> About 25 years after the cars were out of production, Geoff wrote an
> article warning about failure rates of pre BJ8 stub axles. Over 50%
> failure rates.
> If you've got pre BJ8 stub axles, and never had yours crack tested,
> and they are "fine", and you know the intimate history of your car,
> then all is good in your garage. Or not?
> You asked "Why should you do that?"
> You don't have to do anything. It's your car. I'm just sharing my
> information.
> Take it all with a grain of salt.
> Everyone has an opinion. Even Geoff Healey.
> This list is for sharing information.
> Asking "why should I do that???" is not conducive to people presenting
> opinions, and evidence to prove their opinions. Look at the pics on my
> website. You tell me how you have a correctly machined 960 head.
> Sincerely.
> Chris
> PS the aluminium head you but WON'T be based on the 960 design, if
> it's FIA approved as a homologated replacement.

From gstigen at msn.com  Fri Sep 23 16:31:55 2011
From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 15:31:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>,
	<4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT114-W29CAE579D9DDD1F56351CAA00F0@phx.gbl>

I've had over a dozen Healeys starting with my first '60 3000 MK 1 in 1969,
they all had the asbestos heat shield. I've parted out  10 or 12 & don't
remember any not having them. My '63 & '67 do, have to look under my '53 BN1,
can't remember. cheers Geno

> Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 14:00:02 -0400
> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
>
> Alan,
> The heat shield above the muffler didn't come along until the Mk.II
> model, so it is correct that your BN4 does not have it.  Why not
> insulate under the carpet to keep the heat out?  While you are at it
> upgrade the insulation under all of the carpet.  You will find many
> using expensive products like Dynamat and Koolmat, but you can have very
> good luck with less expensive products also.
> Check
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/heat/sound-insulation/p2010475.jcwx?filterid=j1
> Charlie
>
> On 9/23/2011 11:06 AM, Alan Grossman wrote:
> > Hi,
> > My "restored" BN4 is missing the exhaust heat shield. No wonder it's so
hot in
> > there! Given the Moss price it seems like something that would be pretty
easy
> > to fabricate. Of course I don't know exactly what that entails since I
don't
> > have an exemplar. Any thoughts?
> >
> > Also, the seat runner above it has extra long bolts in it, that are
obviously
> > not the originals. Before I tack in some shorter ones, I want to make
sure
> > that those are not attachment points for the missing shield.
> >
> > Thx, Alan
> > Norcal
> > 1958 BN 4
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Sep 23 18:56:39 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 20:56:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <SNT114-W29CAE579D9DDD1F56351CAA00F0@phx.gbl>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>,
	<4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
	<SNT114-W29CAE579D9DDD1F56351CAA00F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000b01cc7a54$d13b0790$73b116b0$@net>

Geno, 

If the under floor insulation panel has been applied to any Healey prior to
the MK 2 tricarb, somebody did it after the fact. Of course the aftermarket
suppliers have been offering these kits for years and usually include the
under floor panel as well, but it was not original on earlier cars.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of gene stigen
Sent: 2011-09-23 6:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question

I've had over a dozen Healeys starting with my first '60 3000 MK 1 in 1969,
they all had the asbestos heat shield. I've parted out  10 or 12 & don't
remember any not having them. My '63 & '67 do, have to look under my '53
BN1,
can't remember. cheers Geno

> Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 14:00:02 -0400
> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
>
> Alan,
> The heat shield above the muffler didn't come along until the Mk.II
> model, so it is correct that your BN4 does not have it.  Why not
> insulate under the carpet to keep the heat out?  While you are at it
> upgrade the insulation under all of the carpet.  You will find many
> using expensive products like Dynamat and Koolmat, but you can have very
> good luck with less expensive products also.
> Check
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/heat/sound-insulation/p2010475.jcwx?filterid=j1
> Charlie
>
> On 9/23/2011 11:06 AM, Alan Grossman wrote:
> > Hi,
> > My "restored" BN4 is missing the exhaust heat shield. No wonder it's so
hot in
> > there! Given the Moss price it seems like something that would be pretty
easy
> > to fabricate. Of course I don't know exactly what that entails since I
don't
> > have an exemplar. Any thoughts?
> >
> > Also, the seat runner above it has extra long bolts in it, that are
obviously
> > not the originals. Before I tack in some shorter ones, I want to make
sure
> > that those are not attachment points for the missing shield.
> >
> > Thx, Alan
> > Norcal
> > 1958 BN 4
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
of
mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Sep 24 03:06:32 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 11:06:32 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>
	<4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4E7D9D98.4080909@chello.nl>

If you apply heat insulation do it on the outside, around the heat 
source. Insulation on the inside under the carpet is far less effective 
as the heat will be soaking in the metal of the body and be transmitted 
over a larger area.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From jarowe at westnet.com.au  Sat Sep 24 04:21:04 2011
From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 18:21:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related but New England travel and Cooper race
	Cars
Message-ID: <4E7DAF10.9050201@westnet.com.au>

Some months ago I mentioned that we were planning a trip to the New 
England area to see the Fall colours.

We received many replies from Healey listers but unfortunately*I *have 
lost their contact details (operator error) except for Bill Pollock in CT.

If any who replied earlier or any other for that matter would care to 
reply again I would be most grateful.

We, 3 Healey couples from Perth Western Australia, are staying at or 
going via

New York, Stratford CT, Great Barrington MA, Boston MA, Jamaica VT, 
Alton Bay NH, Newport RI, Old Saybrook CT and back to New York NY.

On the way we would also like to see any Type 43, 45 or 51 Cooper cars 
for sale or viewing or Healeys of any kind what so ever.

Any leads would be appreciated. Also better through in some Quilting 
displays as well.

cheers from West Oz

John Rowe




=======
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Sep 24 04:36:59 2011
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 06:36:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trummel book
Message-ID: <4E7DB2CB.5000600@earthlink.net>

All,

Looks like Reid Trummel is working on a book called "Big Healeys (The 
Essential Buyer's Guide)" to be published in April of 2012.

Paperback: 64 pages
Publisher: Veloce Publishing
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1845843924
ISBN-13: 978-1845843922

http://www.amazon.com/Big-Healeys-Models-Essential-Buyers/dp/1845843924/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1316859865&sr=8-6


Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 24 07:35:35 2011
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 09:35:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trummel book
In-Reply-To: <4E7DB2CB.5000600@earthlink.net>
References: <4E7DB2CB.5000600@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <SNT133-W2217C3F49268EB981A0E38C50E0@phx.gbl>

Is that a Longbridge on the cover? That does not seem to be Reid.  I have
placed my order.
But only 64 pages?


> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 06:36:59 -0400
> From: rchaskell at earthlink.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Trummel book
>
> All,
>
> Looks like Reid Trummel is working on a book called "Big Healeys (The
> Essential Buyer's Guide)" to be published in April of 2012.
>
> Paperback: 64 pages
> Publisher: Veloce Publishing
> Language: English
> ISBN-10: 1845843924
> ISBN-13: 978-1845843922
>
>
http://www.amazon.com/Big-Healeys-Models-Essential-Buyers/dp/1845843924/ref=s
r_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1316859865&sr=8-6
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

From pieters at pt.lu  Sat Sep 24 09:43:32 2011
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 17:43:32 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Cam
Message-ID: <FEA6DE56-EE1A-44A2-B36D-65E0A8A8C248@pt.lu>

Hi All,
 Can anybody tell me if it is possible to change the camshaft in a BJ7 without
pulling the motor out of the car?
cheers

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 24 11:11:17 2011
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins )
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 17:11:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys]  Carb Exhaust heat shield question
Message-ID: <BLU117-DS42DE73CA20546FF157BD0BF0E0@phx.gbl>

When did they appear? My BN7 does not have one but I have one to install to
help with curing vapor lock on hot summer days intown driving. Problem is I
don't have enough thread on the carb fastener stud to add it without removing
a gasket.
Richard of KY
BN7 440
Regards, Richard C, via my Blackberry

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 09:06:32
To: <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question

If you apply heat insulation do it on the outside, around the heat 
source.
Insulation on the inside under the carpet is far less effective 
as the heat
will be soaking in the metal of the body and be transmitted 
over a larger
area.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type
text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com

From akronzips at aol.com  Sat Sep 24 13:17:37 2011
From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 15:17:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield /alternative
In-Reply-To: <SNT114-W29CAE579D9DDD1F56351CAA00F0@phx.gbl>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>,
	<4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
	<SNT114-W29CAE579D9DDD1F56351CAA00F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CE4905C14B6BD0-1D58-88C05@webmail-m060.sysops.aol.com>

Alan:
I'm restoring my my 1961 BT7 and I'm using a product called Lizard Skin.Lizard
Skin is sold in  a back and a white bucket. (www.lizardskin.com) or look on
ebay. They sell two products the one in the black bucket is a sound deadner
the one in the white bucket is a ceramic heat shield. The amazing thing is
that these spray on like a bedlinner using a spray gun.
I can atest to the affective use of both they were just installed by my
painter. Very easy application no smell no overspray and is water soluable and
easy to mix.
There is a demo on you tube under( lizard skin application.)

i just thought I'd mention this incase you were looking for an alternative
source for a heat shield.

Contact me off list if you'd like more info . (Not a sales rep just a Healey
lover)

Howard
akronzips at aol.com
1961 BT7 Tri-carb
65 BSA L/R
69 BSA Royal Star
70 Triumph T120R









-----Original Message-----
From: gene stigen <gstigen at msn.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Sep 23, 2011 8:36 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question


I've had over a dozen Healeys starting with my first '60 3000 MK 1 in 1969,
hey all had the asbestos heat shield. I've parted out  10 or 12 & don't
emember any not having them. My '63 & '67 do, have to look under my '53 BN1,
an't remember. cheers Geno
> Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 14:00:02 -0400
 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question

 Alan,
 The heat shield above the muffler didn't come along until the Mk.II
 model, so it is correct that your BN4 does not have it.  Why not
 insulate under the carpet to keep the heat out?  While you are at it
 upgrade the insulation under all of the carpet.  You will find many
 using expensive products like Dynamat and Koolmat, but you can have very
 good luck with less expensive products also.
 Check
 http://www.jcwhitney.com/heat/sound-insulation/p2010475.jcwx?filterid=j1
 Charlie

 On 9/23/2011 11:06 AM, Alan Grossman wrote:
 > Hi,
 > My "restored" BN4 is missing the exhaust heat shield. No wonder it's so
ot in
 > there! Given the Moss price it seems like something that would be pretty
asy
 > to fabricate. Of course I don't know exactly what that entails since I
on't
 > have an exemplar. Any thoughts?
 >
 > Also, the seat runner above it has extra long bolts in it, that are
bviously
 > not the originals. Before I tack in some shorter ones, I want to make
ure
 > that those are not attachment points for the missing shield.
 >
 > Thx, Alan
 > Norcal
 > 1958 BN 4
 > _______________________________________________
 > Healeys at autox.team.net
 > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 > Unsubscribe/Manage:
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
gcharlie.vcf]
 _______________________________________________
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe/Manage:
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 24 13:21:19 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 12:21:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related but New England travel and Cooper
 race Cars
In-Reply-To: <4E7DAF10.9050201@westnet.com.au>
Message-ID: <1316892079.36319.YahooMailClassic@web65912.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

John,

I'm in Western CT just above Stamford. I'm not sure my Pre-restoration 65 BJ8 is worth a stop, but if you're in the area on a Saturday or Sunday, maybe we can get a few members from the area to meet up at one of the local eateries.  Sunday brunches are big in the U.S.

I assume you are going up route 7.  Great Choice!! The Housatonic is a great ride.  There's a Great Indian restaurant with a Sunday buffet, Thali, on route 7 north of Stamford, just south of Danbury.  Just off 7 on 107 is the Redding Road House. Good burgers and guinness on tap. Saturday afternoons local collectors randomly show up. Just to mention two of a thousand places.

As for quilting, I don't know what's going on right now, but check out http://www.kutztownfestival.com/ . I know it's in July, but the quilts are amazing.  Might be worth a trip back.

Do you, and any western CT listers, think it's worth a shot?

Greg

--- On Sat, 9/24/11, John Rowe <jarowe at westnet.com.au> wrote:

> From: John Rowe <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
> Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related but New England travel and Cooper race Cars
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, September 24, 2011, 6:21 AM
> Some months ago I mentioned that we
> were planning a trip to the New 
> England area to see the Fall colours.
> 
> We received many replies from Healey listers but
> unfortunately*I *have 
> lost their contact details (operator error) except for Bill
> Pollock in CT.
> 
> If any who replied earlier or any other for that matter
> would care to 
> reply again I would be most grateful.
> 
> We, 3 Healey couples from Perth Western Australia, are
> staying at or 
> going via
> 
> New York, Stratford CT, Great Barrington MA, Boston MA,
> Jamaica VT, 
> Alton Bay NH, Newport RI, Old Saybrook CT and back to New
> York NY.
> 
> On the way we would also like to see any Type 43, 45 or 51
> Cooper cars 
> for sale or viewing or Healeys of any kind what so ever.
> 
> Any leads would be appreciated. Also better through in some
> Quilting 
> displays as well.
> 
> cheers from West Oz
> 
> John Rowe

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Sep 24 13:51:32 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 15:51:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <BLU117-DS42DE73CA20546FF157BD0BF0E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU117-DS42DE73CA20546FF157BD0BF0E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000b01cc7af3$5c89ad30$159d0790$@net>

Richard, 

The under floor heat shields originally appeared with the commencement of
the Mk 2 BN7 and BT7. However, you are talking about the insulation on the
carb heat shield, a whole other matter. There should be an insulation pad on
the engine side lower portion of your BN7 carb heat shield.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Collins 
Sent: 2011-09-24 1:11
To: Oudesluys ; mgcharlie at comcast.net 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Exhaust heat shield question

When did they appear? My BN7 does not have one but I have one to install to
help with curing vapor lock on hot summer days intown driving. Problem is I
don't have enough thread on the carb fastener stud to add it without
removing
a gasket.
Richard of KY
BN7 440
Regards, Richard C, via my Blackberry

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 09:06:32
To: <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question

If you apply heat insulation do it on the outside, around the heat 
source.
Insulation on the inside under the carpet is far less effective 
as the heat
will be soaking in the metal of the body and be transmitted 
over a larger
area.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type
text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Sep 24 14:54:37 2011
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:54:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <BLU117-DS42DE73CA20546FF157BD0BF0E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU117-DS42DE73CA20546FF157BD0BF0E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E7E438D.6000008@earthlink.net>

We seem to be talking about two heat shields: the one between the carbs 
and the manifolds and the one attached to the floor board above the 
front muffler.

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 09/24/2011 01:11 PM, Richard Collins wrote:
> When did they appear? My BN7 does not have one but I have one to install to
> help with curing vapor lock on hot summer days intown driving. Problem is I
> don't have enough thread on the carb fastener stud to add it without removing
> a gasket.
> Richard of KY
> BN7 440
> Regards, Richard C, via my Blackberry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Oudesluys<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 09:06:32
> To:<mgcharlie at comcast.net>
> Cc:<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
>
> If you apply heat insulation do it on the outside, around the heat
> source.
> Insulation on the inside under the carpet is far less effective
> as the heat
> will be soaking in the metal of the body and be transmitted
> over a larger
> area.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type
> text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sun Sep 25 08:01:07 2011
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry rowe)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 07:01:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <BLU117-DS42DE73CA20546FF157BD0BF0E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU117-DS42DE73CA20546FF157BD0BF0E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000301cc7b8b$92a2b8b0$b7e82a10$@net.au>

Richard
I think others have gone off on a tangent here
My early BT7,(HBT7L3347) had one prior to fitting webers. It is only a sheet
of thin metal with approx 3/16"asbestos fixed to the underside but not near
the mounting of the carbs which is metal only (probably 1/32" in this area).
Should not make any difference to the length of stud available.
Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Collins 
Sent: Saturday, 24 September 2011 10:11 AM
To: Oudesluys ; mgcharlie at comcast.net 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Exhaust heat shield question

When did they appear? My BN7 does not have one but I have one to install to
help with curing vapor lock on hot summer days intown driving. Problem is I
don't have enough thread on the carb fastener stud to add it without
removing
a gasket.
Richard of KY
BN7 440
Regards, Richard C, via my Blackberry

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 09:06:32
To: <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question

If you apply heat insulation do it on the outside, around the heat 
source.
Insulation on the inside under the carpet is far less effective 
as the heat
will be soaking in the metal of the body and be transmitted 
over a larger
area.
Kees Oudesluijs

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sun Sep 25 08:34:45 2011
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry rowe)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 07:34:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Exhaust heat shield question
References: <BLU117-DS42DE73CA20546FF157BD0BF0E0@phx.gbl> 
Message-ID: <000001cc7b90$4553d210$cffb7630$@net.au>

Richard
I also parted out an Austin A99 (3000 with gallery (8 port) head. It also
had the heat shield so I presume it has always been there on the Healeys. My
BN1 also has one
 John Rowe
Qld Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: John & Kerry rowe [mailto:jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au] 
Sent: Sunday, 25 September 2011 7:01 AM
To: 'Richard Collins '
Cc: Healey List
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carb Exhaust heat shield question

Richard
I think others have gone off on a tangent here
My early BT7,(HBT7L3347) had one prior to fitting webers. It is only a sheet
of thin metal with approx 3/16"asbestos fixed to the underside but not near
the mounting of the carbs which is metal only (probably 1/32" in this area).
Should not make any difference to the length of stud available.
Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Collins 
Sent: Saturday, 24 September 2011 10:11 AM
To: Oudesluys ; mgcharlie at comcast.net 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Exhaust heat shield question

When did they appear? My BN7 does not have one but I have one to install to
help with curing vapor lock on hot summer days intown driving. Problem is I
don't have enough thread on the carb fastener stud to add it without
removing
a gasket.
Richard of KY
BN7 440
Regards, Richard C, via my Blackberry

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 09:06:32
To: <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question

If you apply heat insulation do it on the outside, around the heat 
source.
Insulation on the inside under the carpet is far less effective 
as the heat
will be soaking in the metal of the body and be transmitted 
over a larger
area.
Kees Oudesluijs

From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com  Sat Sep 24 16:48:18 2011
From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 18:48:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related but New England travel and Cooper
 race Cars
In-Reply-To: <1316892079.36319.YahooMailClassic@web65912.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1316892079.36319.YahooMailClassic@web65912.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <95C9B5E2-7763-4A69-9BB2-AA54CFDBB41C@gmail.com>

I'm in the town next old saybrook (westbrook) and have 2 big healeys, one a
racecar. ( A third is a 100-6 being restored). Plenty of good seafood up this
way. Bills Seafood in westbrook is on the water but might be cool outdoors.
For a fancy meal, cant beat Cafe Routier In old saybrook, Livs Oyster Bar has
a great raw bar. Feel free to contact me when you're in the area.
Jon einhorn

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 24, 2011, at 3:21 PM, Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com> wrote:

> John,
>
> I'm in Western CT just above Stamford. I'm not sure my Pre-restoration 65
BJ8 is worth a stop, but if you're in the area on a Saturday or Sunday, maybe
we can get a few members from the area to meet up at one of the local
eateries.  Sunday brunches are big in the U.S.
>
> I assume you are going up route 7.  Great Choice!! The Housatonic is a great
ride.  There's a Great Indian restaurant with a Sunday buffet, Thali, on route
7 north of Stamford, just south of Danbury.  Just off 7 on 107 is the Redding
Road House. Good burgers and guinness on tap. Saturday afternoons local
collectors randomly show up. Just to mention two of a thousand places.
>
> As for quilting, I don't know what's going on right now, but check out
http://www.kutztownfestival.com/ . I know it's in July, but the quilts are
amazing.  Might be worth a trip back.
>
> Do you, and any western CT listers, think it's worth a shot?
>
> Greg
>
> --- On Sat, 9/24/11, John Rowe <jarowe at westnet.com.au> wrote:
>
>> From: John Rowe <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related but New England travel and Cooper
race Cars
>> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Saturday, September 24, 2011, 6:21 AM
>> Some months ago I mentioned that we
>> were planning a trip to the New
>> England area to see the Fall colours.
>>
>> We received many replies from Healey listers but
>> unfortunately*I *have
>> lost their contact details (operator error) except for Bill
>> Pollock in CT.
>>
>> If any who replied earlier or any other for that matter
>> would care to
>> reply again I would be most grateful.
>>
>> We, 3 Healey couples from Perth Western Australia, are
>> staying at or
>> going via
>>
>> New York, Stratford CT, Great Barrington MA, Boston MA,
>> Jamaica VT,
>> Alton Bay NH, Newport RI, Old Saybrook CT and back to New
>> York NY.
>>
>> On the way we would also like to see any Type 43, 45 or 51
>> Cooper cars
>> for sale or viewing or Healeys of any kind what so ever.
>>
>> Any leads would be appreciated. Also better through in some
>> Quilting
>> displays as well.
>>
>> cheers from West Oz
>>
>> John Rowe
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice at gmail.com

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 24 17:44:37 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 18:44:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator piece needed
Message-ID: <44172C8A-29E4-4E09-AE64-F3236FC9DB0D@yahoo.com>

I need the trafficator piece made of plastic that is behind the one that holds
the horn button.
I am talking about the one that has 3 nuts inserted. The traficator has 3
plastic pieces.
1. The horn button
2. The one that holds the horn button
3 the rear one. I need this one

Its for a BN2

Price and location please


Thanks



Jose



Sent from my iPad

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Sat Sep 24 17:48:42 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 00:48:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Cam
In-Reply-To: <FEA6DE56-EE1A-44A2-B36D-65E0A8A8C248@pt.lu>
References: <FEA6DE56-EE1A-44A2-B36D-65E0A8A8C248@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <000801cc7b14$7dda6990$798f3cb0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Well, I did just that with a Mk II BT7 and I'd be pretty sure that you cld
do it with yr BJ7. Not aware of any reason why not, but wouldn't bet my life
on it as don't know BJ7s. Can't recall taking the grille out which is a pig
of a job (putting it back).
It's all in the manual.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda
Sent: 24 September 2011 16:44
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Cam

Hi All,
 Can anybody tell me if it is possible to change the camshaft in a BJ7
without
pulling the motor out of the car?
cheers
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Sat Sep 24 18:47:47 2011
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 20:47:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] new book
In-Reply-To: <C4122387132641D3979B53C433829FF8@ElComputero>
References: <C4122387132641D3979B53C433829FF8@ElComputero>
Message-ID: <4E7E7A33.8040101@htcnet.org>

Just finished this book, and have to agree with Doug, it is both a 
learning experience and a hilarious adventure into British car repair.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 9/11/2011 7:40 PM, Mr. Finespanner wrote:
> Hey List,
> I found the most pleasant surprise in my mail last week.  It was the 
> new book "It Came With Oil" by Alan Cowan, an old buddy of mine who 
> runs the Falconworks garage in Tucson, AZ.  Alan has been twisting 
> wrenches on English iron even longer than me, and is
> probably the best and most knowledgeable british car mechanic I've
> ever met.  He finally sat down and wrote a collection of tales from 
> 40+ years of road and shop experiences, and the result is a truly
> engaging and often hilarious work told from a shop owner's perspective 
> (names have been altered or omitted to protect the guilty).
>
> If you like great yarns about the trials, tribulations, and triumphs of
> motoring, plus some real insights into the right techniques to use to
> keep british sports cars alive, I highly recommend "It Came With 
> Oil".  A web search using the title will bring up the vendors.
>
> regards,
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 24 19:09:34 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 20:09:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield /alternative
In-Reply-To: <8CE4905C14B6BD0-1D58-88C05@webmail-m060.sysops.aol.com>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>,
	<4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
	<SNT114-W29CAE579D9DDD1F56351CAA00F0@phx.gbl>
	<8CE4905C14B6BD0-1D58-88C05@webmail-m060.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E7E7F4E.5010805@justbrits.com>

<< I can atest to the affective use of both they were just
installed by my painter. >>

Howard, could/would you please explain a tad further ??

One on top of the the other ??  Which first ??
One one place and the other a different place ??

TIA !!

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
'63 BJ-7
[ HORTENSE The Healey wearing STD IL Plates   AH BJ 7   ]
'70 El Camino
[ For Sale and in NEED of TOTAL resto - 2nd Owner ]
'73 Black Tulip MGB
[ MURIAL wearing STD IL Plates   CINSB73   (possibly For Sale) ]

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 24 19:17:51 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 20:17:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator piece needed
References: <44172C8A-29E4-4E09-AE64-F3236FC9DB0D@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B4610587-D373-445B-B0D2-404CE0CBBEB4@yahoo.com>

> I need the trafficator piece made of plastic that is behind the one that
holds the horn button.
> I am talking about the one that has 3 nuts inserted. The traficator has 3
plastic pieces.
> 1. The horn button
> 2. The one that holds the horn button
> 3 the rear one. I need this one. Where the 4 cables screw.


>
> Its for a BN2
>
> Price and location please
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Jose
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 24 20:08:48 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 21:08:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator piece needed
In-Reply-To: <44172C8A-29E4-4E09-AE64-F3236FC9DB0D@yahoo.com>
References: <44172C8A-29E4-4E09-AE64-F3236FC9DB0D@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E7E8D30.8050907@justbrits.com>

Jose, if he doesn't pipe up, write Curt Arndt [I am including him
as a 'cc' in this mail] direct.

To the best of MY knowledge, Curt *IS* Mr. Trafficator <G> ! !

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
'63 BJ-7
[ HORTENSE The Healey wearing STD IL Plates   AH BJ 7   ]
'70 El Camino
[ For Sale and in NEED of TOTAL resto - 2nd Owner ]
'73 Black Tulip MGB
[ MURIAL wearing STD IL Plates   CINSB73   (possibly For Sale) ]

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Sun Sep 25 08:09:17 2011
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 10:09:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys]  Not Healey related but New England travel and,
 Cooper  race Cars
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15.1316887212.27335.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15.1316887212.27335.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4E7F360D.6080105@comcast.net>

John Rowe wrote:
> Also better through in some Quilting displays as well.

When in NH, in wouldn't hurt to point the ladies to the League of
NH Craftsmen. They should be able to find some quilts and lots of
other homey things. Retail stores can be found all around Lake 
Winnipesaukee. I've enjoyed my visits, just to admire the old-world
craftsmanship on the items, especially wood tables and chests.

Store locations:
<http://www.nhcrafts.org/retail_galleries/retail.html>

While they are browsing the store, you should be able to find a
good pint. If you travel NH-112 (The Kancamagus Highway), try
something local:

The Woodstock Inn Station & Brewery:
<http://www.woodstockinnnh.com/>

And if you pass through Concord NH, we could meet for a pint at
the Barley House:
<www.thebarleyhouse.com>

Enjoy!

-
Kent McLean
1956 100 BN2

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Sun Sep 25 10:09:53 2011
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 18:09:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival 2011
Message-ID: <E67707C2-2D7E-4BB4-B50B-D9B746AA3AEE@bornet.net>

I had the priviege to vist this years Godwood Revival Meet in England. I have
published my photos from the meet on my website. If interested please click on
the following link:

http://www.concourshealeys.com/glorious-goodwood-revival-2011/


Magnus Karlsson
www.concourshealeys.com

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sun Sep 25 11:02:56 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 03:02:56 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey tribute Sydney for Charlie Britten
References: <002e01cc7b83$c4878610$4d969230$@net.au>
Message-ID: <080CD008-1141-48FC-A75D-984B1C5D8372@gmail.com>

Just got the sad news that Charlie Britten, past president of the  
Austin Healey Owners Club NSW (AHOC NSW), and one of the nicest blokes  
you could ever meet, has lost his battle with prostate cancer.
His funeral will be this week, and Kay is asking we drive Healeys to  
his funeral.
I'd also like to add that supporting Movember - which raises funds for  
research into Prostate Cancer - is a charity well worth researching  
and supporting.
We'll all miss you Charlie.
Sincerely.

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> Date: 25 September 2011 11:05:13 PM AEST
> Subject: Healey tribute

> Dear Healey Club members,
> Following the sad passing of Charlie Britten this morning, and with  
> funeral arrangements currently being planned, Kay has indicated that  
> a display of Healeys at the service would be appreciated.
>
> If you are able to attend in your Healey, please do so.
>
> Please check the SMH for details of the service, which I believe  
> will be later this week.
>
> Regards,
>
> Allan

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 25 12:24:40 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 11:24:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival 2011
In-Reply-To: <E67707C2-2D7E-4BB4-B50B-D9B746AA3AEE@bornet.net>
References: <E67707C2-2D7E-4BB4-B50B-D9B746AA3AEE@bornet.net>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYp2xPQJiuNY5vCKrsgmot8aXo5hAF2pT=+HXtRs+tHcmg@mail.gmail.com>

Fantastic photos and captions. Thanks. An event at Goodwood  is on my Bucket
list

On Sun, Sep 25, 2011 at 9:09 AM, Magnus Karlsson
<magnuskarlsson at bornet.net>wrote:

> I had the priviege to vist this years Godwood Revival Meet in England. I
> have
> published my photos from the meet on my website. If interested please click
> on
> the following link:
>
> http://www.concourshealeys.com/glorious-goodwood-revival-2011/
>
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> www.concourshealeys.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Sun Sep 25 14:04:07 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 15:04:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival 2011
In-Reply-To: <E67707C2-2D7E-4BB4-B50B-D9B746AA3AEE@bornet.net>
References: <E67707C2-2D7E-4BB4-B50B-D9B746AA3AEE@bornet.net>
Message-ID: <CAKBTmU5u9TXP8JE5Q3HrFYLKRRT04kGH4sBQh8RGXZ_DAmXVwQ@mail.gmail.com>

magnus,
thanks for sharing your great pics.
cheers,
jerry

On Sun, Sep 25, 2011 at 11:09 AM, Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson at bornet.net
> wrote:

> I had the priviege to vist this years Godwood Revival Meet in England. I
> have
> published my photos from the meet on my website. If interested please click
> on
> the following link:
>
> http://www.concourshealeys.com/glorious-goodwood-revival-2011/
>
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> www.concourshealeys.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From davzu29 at cox.net  Sun Sep 25 15:07:10 2011
From: davzu29 at cox.net (davzu29 at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 17:07:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Im free now.
Message-ID: <20110925170710.1ZEZ9.1804202.imail@eastrmwml44>

whats up
what have you been up to You should look here
http://dierenasielaaime.woelmuis.nl/PaulHarrison78.html
see you later

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 25 15:47:10 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 21:47:10 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Cam
In-Reply-To: <FEA6DE56-EE1A-44A2-B36D-65E0A8A8C248@pt.lu>
References: <FEA6DE56-EE1A-44A2-B36D-65E0A8A8C248@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <BAY168-W365BA367BB3A2DE0343E01C0F20@phx.gbl>

Yes, it is possible, but it is not fun. I have done it in the middle of a race
weekend when I had the energy to work through the night, with no sleep, and
then go racing the next day with a different camshaft (and lifters) in my race
motor.
You will have to remove the grill and the radiator. The front crossmember,
between the shock towers, will not allow you enough clearance to get a socket
on the crankshaft nut so you will have to jack up the front of the engine so
that you can get a big socket on that crankshaft nut. You will have to unbolt
the motor mounts from the chassis and disconnect the throttle linkage so you
do not bend it. It may be necessary for you to unbolt the exhaust downpipes.
Once you have the damper off, you can remove the timing chain cover and remove
the cam and crank sprockets along with the timing chain.
Also, you must drop the oil pan and the oil pump to get the oil pump drive
shaft out of the way. You must remove the valve cover and unbolt the rocker
shaft so you can remove the pushrods, then you can remove the tappets.
If your engine has more than 20 thousand miles on it, I suggest you pull it
out and do a complete freshen up and change the camshaft at the same time.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> From: pieters at pt.lu
> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 17:43:32 +0200
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Cam
>
> Hi All,
>  Can anybody tell me if it is possible to change the camshaft in a BJ7
without
> pulling the motor out of the car?
> cheers
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon Sep 26 04:02:06 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 11:02:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Cam
In-Reply-To: <BAY168-W365BA367BB3A2DE0343E01C0F20@phx.gbl>
References: <FEA6DE56-EE1A-44A2-B36D-65E0A8A8C248@pt.lu>
	<BAY168-W365BA367BB3A2DE0343E01C0F20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000601cc7c33$59c8a600$0d59f200$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Yes, that's what I did.
My previous reference to the grille was confusing at best, wrong as it read
on paper. Having recently suffered the joys of replacing the oval grille
surround I was thinking of that wretched thing. In fact, once the radiator
is out the vertical grille portion comes out reasonably(!?) easily. The
whole camshaft job is slow and fairly protracted but nothing too complex.
I'd not done it before so I took my BMC manual and went through the various
sections and listed the relevant paragraphs in numerical order, simply
progressing from section to section/job to job until it was out and thence
replaced. (No chance of a regrind in my case!)
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of richard mayor
Sent: 25 September 2011 22:47
To: pieters at pt.lu; healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Cam

Yes, it is possible, but it is not fun. I have done it in the middle of a
race
weekend when I had the energy to work through the night, with no sleep,
and....
........If your engine has more than 20 thousand miles on it, I suggest you
pull it
out and do a complete freshen up and change the camshaft at the same time.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> From: pieters at pt.lu
> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 17:43:32 +0200
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Cam
>
> Hi All,
>  Can anybody tell me if it is possible to change the camshaft in a BJ7
without
> pulling the motor out of the car?
> cheers

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 26 10:36:48 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 09:36:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator piece needed
In-Reply-To: <44172C8A-29E4-4E09-AE64-F3236FC9DB0D@yahoo.com>
References: <44172C8A-29E4-4E09-AE64-F3236FC9DB0D@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <621C9E56-5FAB-4B8B-9C36-B33F0DFC606C@sbcglobal.net>

That is the piece that always is broken. There are two different  
ones. Sometimes you can repair if you have all the pieces, you can  
try super glue to put it bask together.  You can send me a pic of  
yours and I can see if I have one available.

The next option is to get a new switch and convert it over to the  
100/4 style.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 24, 2011, at 4:44 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote:

> I need the trafficator piece made of plastic that is behind the one  
> that holds
> the horn button.
> I am talking about the one that has 3 nuts inserted. The traficator  
> has 3
> plastic pieces.
> 1. The horn button
> 2. The one that holds the horn button
> 3 the rear one. I need this one
>
> Its for a BN2
>
> Price and location please
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Jose
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Mon Sep 26 11:30:10 2011
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 13:30:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] DW new steering box
Message-ID: <9F13B718-1CBE-4E1F-85D5-B0FF1BAB9DA9@gmail.com>

Hi all, posting for a friend with BJ8 who's not on the list.

Has anyone installed and used Denis Welch's new steering box set-up?
Understood that its expensive but any other experience with it?

Thanks,

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Sep 26 12:13:49 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 12:13:49 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator piece needed
In-Reply-To: <621C9E56-5FAB-4B8B-9C36-B33F0DFC606C@sbcglobal.net>
References: <44172C8A-29E4-4E09-AE64-F3236FC9DB0D@yahoo.com>
	<621C9E56-5FAB-4B8B-9C36-B33F0DFC606C@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <B0D71D17A5E848188B982AC5095796B0@oscar>

Use Q-Bond to repair cracks. Incredible repair product. Available at most
auto parts and home repair/hardware outlets.. I love it!!! 
Dave p

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 10:37 AM
To: Jose Vicente Vargas
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator piece needed

That is the piece that always is broken. There are two different  
ones. Sometimes you can repair if you have all the pieces, you can  
try super glue to put it bask together.  You can send me a pic of  
yours and I can see if I have one available.

The next option is to get a new switch and convert it over to the  
100/4 style.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 24, 2011, at 4:44 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote:

> I need the trafficator piece made of plastic that is behind the one  
> that holds
> the horn button.
> I am talking about the one that has 3 nuts inserted. The traficator  
> has 3
> plastic pieces.
> 1. The horn button
> 2. The one that holds the horn button
> 3 the rear one. I need this one
>
> Its for a BN2
>
> Price and location please
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Jose
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 26 17:42:47 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 16:42:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] DW new steering box
In-Reply-To: <9F13B718-1CBE-4E1F-85D5-B0FF1BAB9DA9@gmail.com>
References: <9F13B718-1CBE-4E1F-85D5-B0FF1BAB9DA9@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9D94593F-513C-44DA-8A5C-FDC1F5E1EB9D@sbcglobal.net>

We have not installed their complete box. But we have installed  
several of their steering shaft and worm assembly.  They work very  
smooth and there is no snug spot in the center of the steering, so  
the adjustment is the same from end to end of the steering.

The only problem is if you have a early car that has the steel top  
steering box, you have to convert to the later style box and they are  
getting hard to find



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 26, 2011, at 10:30 AM, Randy Hicks wrote:

> Hi all, posting for a friend with BJ8 who's not on the list.
>
> Has anyone installed and used Denis Welch's new steering box set-up?
> Understood that its expensive but any other experience with it?
>
> Thanks,
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From go2ghill at aol.com  Mon Sep 26 22:59:11 2011
From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 00:59:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Confused over size
Message-ID: <8CE4AE9546FB652-498-A92A2@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com>

 Noticing a little play in my front wheel on my BN4 and thought I needed to
replace the bearings. Ordered inside bearing, Timken 07087 and race 07196,
from Moss, but when I tried to put the outside bearing on my hub, it was too
small.

 I called Moss and everything seemed right to them. The part number was
correct and it was the right spec.(opening approximately .87). However, the
bearing won't even go over the threads at the end of my hub. Not sure if
anybody has experienced a similar problem or has advice for me.

Moss also thought if the bearing was okay I could take out the play by
removing one or two of the shims.

Greg Hill
BN4
Wheeless in Seattle

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue Sep 27 09:47:07 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 17:47:07 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>

Dear Friends,

My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
something faulty in the ignition system?

Gergo

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Tue Sep 27 11:16:23 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 10:16:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18AE8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

I went through a similar run in my Morgan +4 a few years ago - I now
keep 3 or 4 with me at all times.  Now that I have a handful of them, I
haven't needed another in 4 years.................


Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healey
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:47 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault

Dear Friends,

My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
something faulty in the ignition system?

Gergo
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Tue Sep 27 11:38:47 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 13:38:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAC8_WWNw0eUmYyojMVb6+kaiWV3K6w1h=QgHZb5B3T6fJFpdEQ@mail.gmail.com>

I once had a condenser which was DOA but it was obvious as soon as I
started the engine with the bad condenser in place.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 11:47 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
> Dear Friends,
>
> My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
> something faulty in the ignition system?
>
> Gergo

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 27 13:20:18 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 03:20:18 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJLsVQ9P7tWSh9f9P8Zp=wJksWuudQaxC8BmX=aio-j3w@mail.gmail.com>

Gergo -

Aside from improper gaps, this is a somewhat abnormal yet painfully
normal situation with contacts and condensors.  There were times that
I burned through condensors just like you back in the 1980s and 1990s
before I finally changed my religion about contacts...  Just another
good reason to go with Pertonix.

Ok... FLAME AWAY!!!

Alan

On 9/27/11, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
> Dear Friends,
>
> My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
> something faulty in the ignition system?
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From nelson_wd at msn.com  Tue Sep 27 13:44:57 2011
From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 14:44:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CAC8_WWNw0eUmYyojMVb6+kaiWV3K6w1h=QgHZb5B3T6fJFpdEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CAC8_WWNw0eUmYyojMVb6+kaiWV3K6w1h=QgHZb5B3T6fJFpdEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU161-W181EEBC87F773574A098BD9CF00@phx.gbl>

Speaking electronics:  I have two questions;
1.  I want to change to an electronic system such as Petronix or the XR-700.
I have had one tech-type tell me there is too much voltage generated by
Petronix that may cause problems later on.  Any experience with this?
2.  Where does the engine ground cable mount?
Thanks,  bill


> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 13:38:47 -0400
> From: rpschauss at gmail.com
> To: pajtamuvek at gmail.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
>
> I once had a condenser which was DOA but it was obvious as soon as I
> started the engine with the bad condenser in place.
>
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
> On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 11:47 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
wrote:
> > Dear Friends,
> >
> > My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
> > something faulty in the ignition system?
> >
> > Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nelson_wd at msn.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue Sep 27 14:00:05 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 22:00:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <BLU161-W181EEBC87F773574A098BD9CF00@phx.gbl>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAC8_WWNw0eUmYyojMVb6+kaiWV3K6w1h=QgHZb5B3T6fJFpdEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU161-W181EEBC87F773574A098BD9CF00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmDWUURz1MuqzwR0xaMQUyMcdg5fJRC7LT+Fcd=Sg9XDpQ@mail.gmail.com>

1. Usualy no problem with theese hall effect ignition systems. I always use
them on minis. You will need a proper coil and good ignition cables with as
low resistance as possible - I usualy use oldschool copper hi-tension wires
with nonresistant screw-on caps. Spark plug gaps may need to be experienced
with.
2. They usualy have two wires, one going on the - one on the + pole of the
coil. At least on the systems I met.
3. be carefull while working on the system. It realy uses significantly
higher currant.

Gergo

2011/9/27 W.D. Nelson <nelson_wd at msn.com>

>  Speaking electronics:  I have two questions;
> 1.  I want to change to an electronic system such as Petronix or the
> XR-700.  I have had one tech-type tell me there is too much voltage
> generated by Petronix that may cause problems later on.  Any experience with
> this?
> 2.  Where does the engine ground cable mount?
> Thanks,  bill
>
>  > Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 13:38:47 -0400
> > From: rpschauss at gmail.com
> > To: pajtamuvek at gmail.com
> > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
>
> >
> > I once had a condenser which was DOA but it was obvious as soon as I
> > started the engine with the bad condenser in place.
> >
> > Peter Schauss
> > 1963 BJ7
> > 1980 MGB
> >
> > On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 11:47 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > > Dear Friends,
> > >
> > > My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
> > > something faulty in the ignition system?
> > >
> > > Gergo
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nelson_wd at msn.com

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Tue Sep 27 14:20:26 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 22:20:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Confused over size
In-Reply-To: <8CE4AE9546FB652-498-A92A2@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE4AE9546FB652-498-A92A2@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E82300A.5010909@bredband.net>

Greg
I don't get it. Your new bearings should be the same size as the old 
ones. It's just to compare them, and tell Moss that they gave you the 
wrong item.
Do you have the workshop manual? In there is described exactly how to 
replace the bearings, it's very important to follow the description and 
to use the distance piece between the bearings, hence the shims.

Per in Sweden

Greg Hill skrev 2011-09-27 06:59:
>   Noticing a little play in my front wheel on my BN4 and thought I needed to
> replace the bearings. Ordered inside bearing, Timken 07087 and race 07196,
> from Moss, but when I tried to put the outside bearing on my hub, it was too
> small.
>
>   I called Moss and everything seemed right to them. The part number was
> correct and it was the right spec.(opening approximately .87). However, the
> bearing won't even go over the threads at the end of my hub. Not sure if
> anybody has experienced a similar problem or has advice for me.
>
> Moss also thought if the bearing was okay I could take out the play by
> removing one or two of the shims.
>
> Greg Hill
> BN4
> Wheeless in Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3920 - Release Date: 09/26/11

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Sep 27 15:38:18 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 23:38:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJLsVQ9P7tWSh9f9P8Zp=wJksWuudQaxC8BmX=aio-j3w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJLsVQ9P7tWSh9f9P8Zp=wJksWuudQaxC8BmX=aio-j3w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E82424A.3010309@chello.nl>

It is the only proper way with the quality of points and condensors 
these days.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 27-9-2011 21:20, Alan Seigrist schreef:
> Gergo -
>
> Aside from improper gaps, this is a somewhat abnormal yet painfully
> normal situation with contacts and condensors.  There were times that
> I burned through condensors just like you back in the 1980s and 1990s
> before I finally changed my religion about contacts...  Just another
> good reason to go with Pertonix.
>
> Ok... FLAME AWAY!!!
>
> Alan
>
> On 9/27/11, Austin Healey<pajtamuvek at gmail.com>  wrote:
>> Dear Friends,
>>
>> My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
>> something faulty in the ignition system?
>>
>> Gergo
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Sep 27 16:32:32 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 22:32:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmDWUURz1MuqzwR0xaMQUyMcdg5fJRC7LT+Fcd=Sg9XDpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1834947903.1266036.1317162752973.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Output voltage from Pertronix electronic points won't be any higher than with standard points (and may be a smidgen lower due to internal resistance). As far as current, I don't know how a Pertronix could switch more current than points, which are essentially a dead short when closed (current is limited only by coil impedance). If you go with a 'sports' or Pertronix coil you might get higher secondary voltage if you increase your plug gaps, so the secondary ignition system needs to be in good shape (maybe that's what the 'tech type' was thinking of). 

Pertronix switches power--'upstream,' if you will, from the coil--not to ground like points. Therefore, the coil will need a ground lead. The 'anti-theft' lead to the battery switch makes a convenient ground, but you have to move it to the same (large) terminal on the switch (as the battery ground). That way, you're opening the ignition and battery-to-ground circuits with the switch in the 'OFF' position, and maintaining the 'anti-theft' aspect of the cutoff switch. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

1. Usualy no problem with theese hall effect ignition systems. I always use 
them on minis. You will need a proper coil and good ignition cables with as 
low resistance as possible - I usualy use oldschool copper hi-tension wires 
with nonresistant screw-on caps. Spark plug gaps may need to be experienced 
with. 
2. They usualy have two wires, one going on the - one on the + pole of the 
coil. At least on the systems I met. 
3. be carefull while working on the system. It realy uses significantly 
higher currant. 

Gergo 

2011/9/27 W.D. Nelson <nelson_wd at msn.com> 

> Speaking electronics: I have two questions; 
> 1. I want to change to an electronic system such as Petronix or the 
> XR-700. I have had one tech-type tell me there is too much voltage 
> generated by Petronix that may cause problems later on. Any experience with 
> this? 
> 2. Where does the engine ground cable mount? 
> Thanks, bill 
> 
> > Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 13:38:47 -0400 
> > From: rpschauss at gmail.com 
> > To: pajtamuvek at gmail.com 
> > CC: healeys at autox.team.net 
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault 
> 
> > 
> > I once had a condenser which was DOA but it was obvious as soon as I 
> > started the engine with the bad condenser in place. 
> > 
> > Peter Schauss 
> > 1963 BJ7 
> > 1980 MGB 
> > 
> > On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 11:47 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> 
> wrote: 
> > > Dear Friends, 
> > > 
> > > My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or 
> > > something faulty in the ignition system? 
> > > 
> > > Gergo 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Sep 27 17:29:56 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 19:29:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <BLU161-W181EEBC87F773574A098BD9CF00@phx.gbl>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CAC8_WWNw0eUmYyojMVb6+kaiWV3K6w1h=QgHZb5B3T6fJFpdEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU161-W181EEBC87F773574A098BD9CF00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <044d01cc7d6d$5ec0e970$1c42bc50$@verizon.net>

Just don't forget that the Pertronix units are polarity sensitive. For
installation on a positive ground car, see the Ignition section on the
Technical page of my site. I installed one several years ago and love it.

For your second question, my ground strap is connected to frame at a
location opposite from the transmission bell housing where you should see a
nut welded on the frame. The other end is attached to the bell housing at
the bolt nearest the frame. I'll send a photo if this is not clear.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of W.D. Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 3:45 PM
To: rpschauss at gmail.com; pajtamuvek at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault

Speaking electronics:  I have two questions; 1.  I want to change to an
electronic system such as Petronix or the XR-700.
I have had one tech-type tell me there is too much voltage generated by
Petronix that may cause problems later on.  Any experience with this?
2.  Where does the engine ground cable mount?
Thanks,  bill

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Sep 27 18:43:21 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 19:43:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <1834947903.1266036.1317162752973.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1834947903.1266036.1317162752973.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4E826DA9.3080700@justbrits.com>

<< If you go with a 'sports' or Pertronix coil... >>

Make SURE the coil is rated for the Petronix Unit being installed.
I *smoked* a couple Petronix Units with the "Lucas Sports Coil"
Customer had installed with his points. 

Couldn't figure out WTF was going on until Petronix called ME
and asked if I was using a "LSC".  Bingo.  Problem solved<G> !

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Tue Sep 27 20:45:53 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 22:45:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJLsVQ9P7tWSh9f9P8Zp=wJksWuudQaxC8BmX=aio-j3w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJLsVQ9P7tWSh9f9P8Zp=wJksWuudQaxC8BmX=aio-j3w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE4B9FDFA9B80F-140C-5C701@webmail-d158.sysops.aol.com>

 When I worked for a foreign car repair shop in the 1960s, the most respected
mechanic there had a policy of never changing a condenser.  It was his belief
that if a condenser was still in good working condition, there was no reason
to change it.  Given the dicey situation regarding reproduction parts, this
advise may be doubly wise.

Bill Wilkman
BT7 and AN5








-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>; Healey List
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 3:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault


Gergo -

Aside from improper gaps, this is a somewhat abnormal yet painfully
normal situation with contacts and condensors.  There were times that
I burned through condensors just like you back in the 1980s and 1990s
before I finally changed my religion about contacts...  Just another
good reason to go with Pertonix.

Ok... FLAME AWAY!!!

Alan

On 9/27/11, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
> Dear Friends,
>
> My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
> something faulty in the ignition system?
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

--
Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue Sep 27 23:08:55 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 07:08:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <8CE4B9FDFA9B80F-140C-5C701@webmail-d158.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJLsVQ9P7tWSh9f9P8Zp=wJksWuudQaxC8BmX=aio-j3w@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CE4B9FDFA9B80F-140C-5C701@webmail-d158.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBtVw=iCgJhb_=+u5SciPyxmpsxmdMgWYqG6JjtQ=pmdw@mail.gmail.com>

You got it Bill. I will putthe original condenser in my car and give it a
try.

Gergo

2011/9/28 <wilkmanracing at aol.com>

>  When I worked for a foreign car repair shop in the 1960s, the most
> respected mechanic there had a policy of never changing a condenser.  It was
> his belief that if a condenser was still in good working condition, there
> was no reason to change it.  Given the dicey situation regarding
> reproduction parts, this advise may be doubly wise.
>
> Bill Wilkman
> BT7 and AN5
>
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>; Healey List <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 3:39 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
>
>  Gergo -
>
> Aside from improper gaps, this is a somewhat abnormal yet painfully
> normal situation with contacts and condensors.  There were times that
> I burned through condensors just like you back in the 1980s and 1990s
> before I finally changed my religion about contacts...  Just another
> good reason to go with Pertonix.
>
> Ok... FLAME AWAY!!!
>
> Alan
>
> On 9/27/11, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Dear Friends,
> >
> > My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
> > something faulty in the ignition system?
> >
> > Gergo
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Tue Sep 27 23:40:01 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 01:40:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmBtVw=iCgJhb_=+u5SciPyxmpsxmdMgWYqG6JjtQ=pmdw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com><CAFBXTkJLsVQ9P7tWSh9f9P8Zp=wJksWuudQaxC8BmX=aio-j3w@mail.gmail.com><8CE4B9FDFA9B80F-140C-5C701@webmail-d158.sysops.aol.com>
	<CA+QDXmBtVw=iCgJhb_=+u5SciPyxmpsxmdMgWYqG6JjtQ=pmdw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE4BB8335BF720-2310-129DD3@webmail-m171.sysops.aol.com>

The mechanic, George Eastham, told me condensors don't need to be replaced
every time the points are changed.  Just because a tune up kit includes a
condensor, is no reason to replace an existing working unit.


Bill Wilkman


-----Original Message-----
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
To: wilkmanracing <wilkmanracing at aol.com>
Cc: healey.nut <healey.nut at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 10:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault


You got it Bill. I will putthe original condenser in my car and give it a
try.


Gergo


2011/9/28 <wilkmanracing at aol.com>

When I worked for a foreign car repair shop in the 1960s, the most respected
mechanic there had a policy of never changing a condenser.  It was his belief
that if a condenser was still in good working condition, there was no reason
to change it.  Given the dicey situation regarding reproduction parts, this
advise may be doubly wise.

Bill Wilkman
BT7 and AN5









-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>; Healey List
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 3:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault





Gergo -
Aside from improper gaps, this is a somewhat abnormal yet painfully
ormal situation with contacts and condensors.  There were times that
 burned through condensors just like you back in the 1980s and 1990s
efore I finally changed my religion about contacts...  Just another
ood reason to go with Pertonix.
Ok... FLAME AWAY!!!
Alan
On 9/27/11, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
 Dear Friends,

 My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
 something faulty in the ignition system?

 Gergo
 _______________________________________________
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe/Manage:
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

--
ent from my mobile device
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums

nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue Sep 27 23:46:51 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 07:46:51 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <8CE4BB8335BF720-2310-129DD3@webmail-m171.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJLsVQ9P7tWSh9f9P8Zp=wJksWuudQaxC8BmX=aio-j3w@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CE4B9FDFA9B80F-140C-5C701@webmail-d158.sysops.aol.com>
	<CA+QDXmBtVw=iCgJhb_=+u5SciPyxmpsxmdMgWYqG6JjtQ=pmdw@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CE4BB8335BF720-2310-129DD3@webmail-m171.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmB_wb-zQinuQ-AXXZ95iHgc0Jxjaj415s8wTYJjaB0qNg@mail.gmail.com>

Its a good idea. Though my car stood for 25 years and condensers may dry
out. Thats why I replaced it automaticly.

Gergo

2011/9/28 <wilkmanracing at aol.com>

> The mechanic, George Eastham, told me condensors don't need to be replaced
> every time the points are changed.  Just because a tune up kit includes a
> condensor, is no reason to replace an existing working unit.
>
>  Bill Wilkman
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
> To: wilkmanracing <wilkmanracing at aol.com>
> Cc: healey.nut <healey.nut at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 10:08 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
>
> You got it Bill. I will putthe original condenser in my car and give it a
> try.
>
>  Gergo
>
> 2011/9/28 <wilkmanracing at aol.com>
>
>> When I worked for a foreign car repair shop in the 1960s, the most
>> respected mechanic there had a policy of never changing a condenser.  It was
>> his belief that if a condenser was still in good working condition, there
>> was no reason to change it.  Given the dicey situation regarding
>> reproduction parts, this advise may be doubly wise.
>>
>> Bill Wilkman
>> BT7 and AN5
>>
>>
>>
>>  -----Original Message-----
>> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>; Healey List <
>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 3:39 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
>>
>>
>> Gergo -
>>
>> Aside from improper gaps, this is a somewhat abnormal yet painfully
>> normal situation with contacts and condensors.  There were times that
>> I burned through condensors just like you back in the 1980s and 1990s
>> before I finally changed my religion about contacts...  Just another
>> good reason to go with Pertonix.
>>
>> Ok... FLAME AWAY!!!
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On 9/27/11, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
>> > Dear Friends,
>> >
>> > My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
>> > something faulty in the ignition system?
>> >
>> > Gergo
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>> >
>>
>> --
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 28 11:39:25 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 10:39:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What's in your boot?
Message-ID: <COL121-W20DD3271F1662AE8BCE94EA4F10@phx.gbl>

At the Ironstone concours last weekend one of the Healeys had a  flat. With
amazing speed, Dave Nock jumped in with a floor jack and some 2 x 6's and had
the wheel changed in seconds. The car was in deep grass and driven onto the
wood then jacked up. Great tech session on changing a flat. Now the only
question is where does he store all that stuff in the boot?
Rich Kahn

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Wed Sep 28 12:28:01 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 14:28:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] What's in your boot?
Message-ID: <10d92.4513941f.3bb4c131@aol.com>

David Nock, never leave home without him. 
 
 
In a message dated 9/28/2011 11:25:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tahoehealey at hotmail.com writes:

At the  Ironstone concours last weekend one of the Healeys had a  flat.  
With
amazing speed, Dave Nock jumped in with a floor jack and some 2 x 6's  and 
had
the wheel changed in seconds. The car was in deep grass and driven  onto the
wood then jacked up. Great tech session on changing a flat. Now  the only
question is where does he store all that stuff in the  boot?
Rich  Kahn
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com

From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Wed Sep 28 14:16:13 2011
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (sdesalvo at frontiernet.net)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 20:16:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] identify transmission
Message-ID: <1043018293.34220.1317240973376.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>

Hi all,
I have a late BN1 which sometimes has BN2 parts. I am trying to identify the transmission, the manual is not helping because it refers to the number stamped just below the dipstick. There is no dipstick, just a filler plug on the right side of the tranny. Can anyone tell me how to identify the BN1 tranny vs the BN2? Thanks in advance for any help.
Sam

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Sep 28 14:58:29 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 16:58:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] What's in your boot?
In-Reply-To: <10d92.4513941f.3bb4c131@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20110928165829.XY1SH.219396.root@pamxwww01-z01>

I keep a 2T hydraulic jack in the boot all the time and it has been a lifesaver for me on a few flats.  Yep--it takes up a little room, but saves a lot of hassle when it is needed.

tom   BJ8
---- ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: 

=============
David Nock, never leave home without him. 
 
 
In a message dated 9/28/2011 11:25:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tahoehealey at hotmail.com writes:

At the  Ironstone concours last weekend one of the Healeys had a  flat.  
With
amazing speed, Dave Nock jumped in with a floor jack and some 2 x 6's  and 
had
the wheel changed in seconds. The car was in deep grass and driven  onto the
wood then jacked up. Great tech session on changing a flat. Now  the only
question is where does he store all that stuff in the  boot?
Rich  Kahn
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Sep 28 15:19:29 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:19:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] identify transmission
In-Reply-To: <1043018293.34220.1317240973376.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
References: <1043018293.34220.1317240973376.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4cEWHqnEuwHN_N6NEz=hS+CSmYM4QfCdCGmM9hH82=1g@mail.gmail.com>

Sam--

The BN1 transmission does not have a separate bell housing--it is a part of
the transmission.  The BN2 bell housing is a separate piece bolted to the
transmission as with most cars.

Also the shift pattern on a BN1 is "backwards" with first (blanked off) on
upper right and fourth on lower left.  A BN2 has a conventional four-speed
pattern.

Best--Michael Oritt
------------------------

On Wed, Sep 28, 2011 at 4:16 PM, <sdesalvo at frontiernet.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
> I have a late BN1 which sometimes has BN2 parts. I am trying to identify
> the transmission, the manual is not helping because it refers to the number
> stamped just below the dipstick. There is no dipstick, just a filler plug on
> the right side of the tranny. Can anyone tell me how to identify the BN1
> tranny vs the BN2? Thanks in advance for any help.
> Sam
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Sep 28 15:45:44 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 05:45:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] identify transmission
In-Reply-To: <1043018293.34220.1317240973376.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
References: <1043018293.34220.1317240973376.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLN6P4nBxOvoOh=qWKLtsFuWEgOXGTUSSBS52QPvyjc6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Sam -

If the gearbox only has a filler plug on the right side, it is a BN1
gearbox.  If the gearbox has a dipstick on the top, then it is a BN2 box.

Also, if the bellhousing & gearbox are all cast as one piece, then it's a
BN1 box.  If the bell housing is bolted to the gearbox as a separate piece,
then the box is for a BN2.

Hope that helps.

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2011 at 4:16 AM, <sdesalvo at frontiernet.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
> I have a late BN1 which sometimes has BN2 parts. I am trying to identify
> the transmission, the manual is not helping because it refers to the number
> stamped just below the dipstick. There is no dipstick, just a filler plug on
> the right side of the tranny. Can anyone tell me how to identify the BN1
> tranny vs the BN2? Thanks in advance for any help.
> Sam
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 28 16:40:19 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 15:40:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] identify transmission
In-Reply-To: <1043018293.34220.1317240973376.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
References: <1043018293.34220.1317240973376.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <1AAAB2EB-4A5D-4586-B4BD-F3D282733DF2@sbcglobal.net>

Trans is either a 3 speed or a 4 speed unless the block is removed in  
the 3 speed. Then the next way is the 3 speed trans shift patter is  
reversed and the 4 speed trans is a standard shift pattern




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 28, 2011, at 1:16 PM, sdesalvo at frontiernet.net wrote:

> Hi all,
> I have a late BN1 which sometimes has BN2 parts. I am trying to  
> identify the transmission, the manual is not helping because it  
> refers to the number stamped just below the dipstick. There is no  
> dipstick, just a filler plug on the right side of the tranny. Can  
> anyone tell me how to identify the BN1 tranny vs the BN2? Thanks in  
> advance for any help.
> Sam
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Wed Sep 28 17:44:32 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:44:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>
	<4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CE4C4FB4C74486-136C-2B181@web-mmc-d07.sysops.aol.com>

 I put Dynamat in my BN7 and was very pleased with the result.  But, when it
came time to do my TR3A I looked for a less expensive alternative and found
"Fatma."  Very similar to Dynamat but for a fraction the price.  It's for sale
on Amazon.com.

Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY








-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Sep 23, 2011 3:52 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question


Alan,
The heat shield above the muffler didn't come along until the Mk.II
model, so it is correct that your BN4 does not have it.  Why not
insulate under the carpet to keep the heat out?  While you are at it
upgrade the insulation under all of the carpet.  You will find many
using expensive products like Dynamat and Koolmat, but you can have very
good luck with less expensive products also.
Check
http://www.jcwhitney.com/heat/sound-insulation/p2010475.jcwx?filterid=j1
Charlie

On 9/23/2011 11:06 AM, Alan Grossman wrote:
> Hi,
> My "restored" BN4 is missing the exhaust heat shield. No wonder it's so hot
in
> there! Given the Moss price it seems like something that would be pretty
easy
> to fabricate. Of course I don't know exactly what that entails since I
don't
> have an exemplar. Any thoughts?
>
> Also, the seat runner above it has extra long bolts in it, that are
obviously
> not the originals. Before I tack in some shorter ones, I want to make sure
> that those are not attachment points for the missing shield.
>
> Thx, Alan
> Norcal
> 1958 BN 4
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 28 18:43:29 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:43:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Just Got Back from the Goodwood Revival
Message-ID: <1317257009.69266.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Virtually, that is.  OK, it's on my bucket list but not in the cards this
year.  British ITV4 did a nice job of covering it, but didn't show any
Healeys.  If you want to see it though,  you need to have a UK IP address. No
worries, mate. Go here and download the player to get a UK IP:
[url=http://www.expatshield.com]Expat Shield[/url] then enter this for a url
to see the video: [url=http://www.itv.com/itvplayer/video/?Filter=276686]Video
- ITV Player[/url]
It's a PITA, but totally worth it.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From theswed at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 28 19:37:48 2011
From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 18:37:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] squeaky brakes
Message-ID: <SNT125-W3FEDA9A02F0C762A7BAADB3F60@phx.gbl>

About a year ago I replaced my front brakes with new rotors and pads.  I also
installed the antil-squeal

shims.  I never had a problem with my brakes squealing before installing the
new brakes.  After the installation, my brakes began to (and continue to)
squeal.  Any suggestions?   Kenny'61 BT7

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Sep 28 21:32:56 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 23:32:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <8CE4C4FB4C74486-136C-2B181@web-mmc-d07.sysops.aol.com>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>
	<4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
	<8CE4C4FB4C74486-136C-2B181@web-mmc-d07.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <04f001cc7e58$7b72ba80$72582f80$@verizon.net>

Do you mean "Fatmat"? Sold on Amazon as a sound deadener.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of npaul72464 at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 7:45 PM
To: mgcharlie at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question

 I put Dynamat in my BN7 and was very pleased with the result.  But, when it
came time to do my TR3A I looked for a less expensive alternative and found
"Fatma."  Very similar to Dynamat but for a fraction the price.  It's for
sale on Amazon.com.

Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Sep 29 07:30:14 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 09:30:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN4 Muffler Search
Message-ID: <001c01cc7eab$eb99bbd0$c2cd3370$@net>

Hello all,

 

I am looking (on behalf of a friend) for a proper to original 2 in/1 out
muffler for an early BN4. Any leads out there?

 

Rich Chrysler

From scvc70 at epix.net  Thu Sep 29 09:37:45 2011
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 11:37:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hershey
Message-ID: <4CF13B2B3BDE4FB69AF19A3FC37B8195@valuedea617bbe>

Any/all Listers planning to come to Hershey next week are welcome to stop by
our spaces in the Chocolate Field,  CU 40 - 41, at least to say hello even if
you don't buy anything!  Look for the British flag overhead---------

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

From Healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 29 12:18:36 2011
From: Healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 11:18:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock Interview
Message-ID: <71C65125-9015-4119-8482-54FFCB92AC6F@sbcglobal.net>

We have added a new feature to our web site.

Steve Kingsbury came by our shop about 3 years ago, only about 1 year  
before my father passed away. He shot a 30 minute documentary about  
him and how we got started the the British Car Repairs.

Please feel free to check it out on the Home page of our web site.






David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Thu Sep 29 14:58:57 2011
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 16:58:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock Interview
In-Reply-To: <71C65125-9015-4119-8482-54FFCB92AC6F@sbcglobal.net>
References: <71C65125-9015-4119-8482-54FFCB92AC6F@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001f01cc7eea$9b808540$d2818fc0$@mindspring.com>

Thanks... very entertaining.
-skip-
BJ7, BJ8

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Thu Sep 29 15:35:05 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 13:35:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?squeaky_brakes?=
Message-ID: <20110929213505.27741.qmail@hoster902.com>

Spray the backs of the pads with Brake Stop Squeal from the auto parts store. Did this on my wife's Z-car years ago and the squeal went away for ever.

Have heard a layer or two of duct tape is good. Or multiple layers of paint so it becomes kind of thick and rubbery.


-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Sep 29 17:21:14 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 19:21:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Web Site upates
Message-ID: <054501cc7efe$7bf812b0$73e83810$@verizon.net>

More updates.

1. Video of the audible flashers on a BJ8 on the Technical page, Safety
section. A better rendition of the schematic and video will be forthcoming.

2. Link to a supplier of plate zinc sheets that can be cut to size to use as
"lubricating" spacers on leaf springs.

3. A link to the Southeastern Classic XXV 2012 sponsored by the Atlanta
Austin Healey Club. On the Links page, Shows section.

4. A link to the  Conclave 2012 on the Links page, Shows section.

5. More information on shock absorbers on the Technical page, Suspension
section.

6. An article with lots of photos from John Homenek on the restoration of a
hardtop for a BN6-BN7.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Sep 29 18:11:22 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 20:11:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] squeaky brakes
In-Reply-To: <SNT125-W3FEDA9A02F0C762A7BAADB3F60@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT125-W3FEDA9A02F0C762A7BAADB3F60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CE4D1C9EA1268B-21C-F9C9@webmail-m162.sysops.aol.com>

Kenny
Brake squeal is usually caused by pad vibration and that can be caused by a
bunch of things. You mentioned that you replaced the pads and rotors.  Are the
rotor bolts tight and are the rotors running true? Did you rebuild the
calipers and are the mounting bolts tight? The anti-squeal shims or compound
on the pads can help but a caliper piston that is hanging up due to corrosion
will cause brake squeal too.
Aloha
Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Kenny J <theswed at hotmail.com>
To: Healeys Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 28, 2011 11:04 pm
Subject: [Healeys] squeaky brakes


About a year ago I replaced my front brakes with new rotors and pads.  I also
nstalled the antil-squeal
shims.  I never had a problem with my brakes squealing before installing the
ew brakes.  After the installation, my brakes began to (and continue to)
queal.  Any suggestions?   Kenny'61 BT7
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep 29 22:48:30 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 23:48:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <04f001cc7e58$7b72ba80$72582f80$@verizon.net>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC>
	<4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net>
	<8CE4C4FB4C74486-136C-2B181@web-mmc-d07.sysops.aol.com>
	<04f001cc7e58$7b72ba80$72582f80$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4E854A1E.9020705@justbrits.com>

<< Do you mean "Fatmat"? >>

Dats what I found around 7:30 AM John ( & Ned )??  Doc appt at 7:50 AM
[ WHERE do they get these times <F> ?? ] and then had to go for "testing".
So it's been awhile until I got to this one <G> ! ! !

<< Sold on Amazon as a sound deadener. >>

Found that also (1st) then on half dozen hot-rod pages.  Not one
even mentioned "heat shielding" !?!?!  IIRC, one of the DYI Hot Rod
sites had it under stereos, etc. heading ?!?.

Nothing I 'found' <G> had any mention of heat shielding, Ned.
Did you find something John & I didn't ?!?

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 23:25:00 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 07:25:00 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] squeaky brakes
In-Reply-To: <8CE4D1C9EA1268B-21C-F9C9@webmail-m162.sysops.aol.com>
References: <SNT125-W3FEDA9A02F0C762A7BAADB3F60@phx.gbl>
	<8CE4D1C9EA1268B-21C-F9C9@webmail-m162.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmCFEzWq23rb7EWsboTuNepQ+Y1qAZ8+8M8aQv-UA2cMmQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bad brake pad material can also result in squealing. May halp if You cut the
edges of the pad.

Gergo

2011/9/30 <healeyguy at aol.com>

> Kenny
> Brake squeal is usually caused by pad vibration and that can be caused by a
> bunch of things. You mentioned that you replaced the pads and rotors.  Are
> the
> rotor bolts tight and are the rotors running true? Did you rebuild the
> calipers and are the mounting bolts tight? The anti-squeal shims or
> compound
> on the pads can help but a caliper piston that is hanging up due to
> corrosion
> will cause brake squeal too.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kenny J <theswed at hotmail.com>
> To: Healeys Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Sep 28, 2011 11:04 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] squeaky brakes
>
>
> About a year ago I replaced my front brakes with new rotors and pads.  I
> also
> nstalled the antil-squeal
> shims.  I never had a problem with my brakes squealing before installing
> the
> ew brakes.  After the installation, my brakes began to (and continue to)
> queal.  Any suggestions?   Kenny'61 BT7
> ______________________________________________
> ealeys at autox.team.net
> onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> uggested annual donation  $12.75
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Sep 30 02:02:39 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey])
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 18:02:39 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] What's in your boot?
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W20DD3271F1662AE8BCE94EA4F10@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W20DD3271F1662AE8BCE94EA4F10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAKAwfjdggxeTiQVz33qJXGiV7+EZgUcCzRvOp36x9rSBZHuRRw@mail.gmail.com>

I always carry a 6in wide x 4in high x 3 ft long piece of timber in my boot
- cut at an angle like a ramp.
So about 2 ft of the length is tapered from 0ins high to 4 ins - then there
is a flat 12 in section 4ins off the ground.
Then I've attached a piece of old carpet about 4 ft long to the underside of
the 'ramp' - with about 18ins of the carpet sticking out - leading up to the
tapered section.
So when I need to get over speed humps, put a trolley jack under my car, I
can use this...
You put the carpet edge in front of the tyre, drive onto the carpet (the
weight of the car then stops the ramp moving forward as you drive on) and
then you have one wheel 4 ins higher...
I actually have 4 of these - which I use to put the car up 4 ins in the air
when I want to lift the whole car with trolley jacks & axle stands - but I
have one in my boot.
Thats what's in my boot. No point in having a spare if you can't get a jack
under it....
:-)
Chris


__________________________________

On Thu, Sep 29, 2011 at 3:39 AM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> At the Ironstone concours last weekend one of the Healeys had a  flat. With
> amazing speed, Dave Nock jumped in with a floor jack and some 2 x 6's and
> had
> the wheel changed in seconds. The car was in deep grass and driven onto the
> wood then jacked up. Great tech session on changing a flat. Now the only
> question is where does he store all that stuff in the boot?
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Fri Sep 30 06:16:29 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 08:16:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question
In-Reply-To: <4E854A1E.9020705@justbrits.com>
References: <A330FE27D339451DB8AF5DFB01A1B68D@AlanPC><4E7CC922.2060508@comcast.net><8CE4C4FB4C74486-136C-2B181@web-mmc-d07.sysops.aol.com><04f001cc7e58$7b72ba80$72582f80$@verizon.net>
	<4E854A1E.9020705@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <8CE4D81EB1B1833-109C-10D48@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com>

 Yes, I mean Fatmat.  Following is an Amazon review and a page from Fatmat
indicating what it can be used for.

I'm interested mainly in the heat insulation and I also want to seal the floor
to protect from when rain comes in.





-----Original Message-----
From: Shop at " Just Brits " <shop at justbrits.com>
Yes, it's Fatmat.  I bought it mainly for heat shielding and to seal the floor
from water from rain storms.

Following are an Amazon review and a link  from the company showing what it
can be used for.  Hope this helps.

Ned



        Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?)

        This review is from: 100 Sq Ft FatMat 50 mil Sound Deadener w/Install
Kit
received my rolls in about a week, i ordered the 100sq ft of it and you cant
beat the price that they sell it for. i used it to block heat radiating from
my transmission tunnel into the cab of the car and as far as i can tell it has
been a huge difference, install kit comes with a razor and roller. The roller
looks cheap and generic but when you start to apply the mat and actually use
the roller it helps a lot

http://fatmat.com/

To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Sep 30, 2011 2:00 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust heat shield question


<< Do you mean "Fatmat"? >>

Dats what I found around 7:30 AM John ( & Ned )??  Doc appt at 7:50 AM
[ WHERE do they get these times <F> ?? ] and then had to go for "testing".
So it's been awhile until I got to this one <G> ! ! !

<< Sold on Amazon as a sound deadener. >>

Found that also (1st) then on half dozen hot-rod pages.  Not one
even mentioned "heat shielding" !?!?!  IIRC, one of the DYI Hot Rod
sites had it under stereos, etc. heading ?!?.

Nothing I 'found' <G> had any mention of heat shielding, Ned.
Did you find something John & I didn't ?!?

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Fri Sep 30 07:32:03 2011
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 06:32:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What's in your boot?
In-Reply-To: <CAKAwfjdggxeTiQVz33qJXGiV7+EZgUcCzRvOp36x9rSBZHuRRw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W20DD3271F1662AE8BCE94EA4F10@phx.gbl>
	<CAKAwfjdggxeTiQVz33qJXGiV7+EZgUcCzRvOp36x9rSBZHuRRw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9435EA4C-9DC1-4D48-B360-63CC3D572B99@gmail.com>

I went to pep boys yesterday a bought a small two ton jack.
It is no larger than the scissor jack that I now carry and weighs about the
same.
I am getting too old to crank up the scissor jack high enough to get the car
off of the ground to get the spare tire on.
It was only $20.00!
Ron
> _________________________________
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2011 at 3:39 AM, Richard Kahn
<tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> At the Ironstone concours last weekend one of the Healeys had a  flat.
With
>> amazing speed, Dave Nock jumped in with a floor jack and some 2 x 6's and
>> had
>> the wheel changed in seconds. The car was in deep grass and driven onto
the
>> wood then jacked up. Great tech session on changing a flat. Now the only
>> question is where does he store all that stuff in the boot?
>> Rich Kahn

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Fri Sep 30 08:21:04 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 09:21:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder
Message-ID: <000001cc7f7c$3084e5f0$918eb1d0$@qwest.net>

What are the differences between the servo and non-servo master cylinders?

 

Herb Miller

1962 BT7

1967 BJ8

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Sep 30 14:52:36 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 22:52:36 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] squeaky brakes
In-Reply-To: <SNT125-W3FEDA9A02F0C762A7BAADB3F60@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT125-W3FEDA9A02F0C762A7BAADB3F60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E862C14.90601@chello.nl>

The old ones may have contained asbestos, possibly fitted as NOS. These 
hardly ever squealed. The new ones are probably modern pattern parts  
and are asbestos free. These are know to squeal  in many instances. You 
can try to chamfer the edges.
Also use some copper grease on the sliding surfaces of the pad/calliper 
and on the back of the pad/anti squeal shims. Make sure you do not 
contaminate the friction material or the brake disc.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Op 29-9-2011 3:37, Kenny J schreef:
> About a year ago I replaced my front brakes with new rotors and pads.  I also
> installed the antil-squeal
>
> shims.  I never had a problem with my brakes squealing before installing the
> new brakes.  After the installation, my brakes began to (and continue to)
> squeal.  Any suggestions?   Kenny'61 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
>
> -----
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 30 16:12:04 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 06:12:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <000001cc7f7c$3084e5f0$918eb1d0$@qwest.net>
References: <000001cc7f7c$3084e5f0$918eb1d0$@qwest.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+Q_p6wQdvfWhuzWBboZm31fU6RzatASooEPhRb1v3qRw@mail.gmail.com>

The non Servo master cylinder is the same as the clutch master on the
3000's, same size, diameter, etc.  The servo master is smaller in diameter.

On Fri, Sep 30, 2011 at 10:21 PM, Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net>wrote:

> What are the differences between the servo and non-servo master cylinders?
>
>
>
> Herb Miller
>
> 1962 BT7
>
> 1967 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Fri Sep 30 17:25:58 2011
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:25:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <000001cc7f7c$3084e5f0$918eb1d0$@qwest.net>
References: <000001cc7f7c$3084e5f0$918eb1d0$@qwest.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLyROwP6FcWkipZM0u4YUaDk2Oz+sTidrfuQe-KuhSO3w@mail.gmail.com>

The servo cylinder has a larger bore diameter.
>From memory the non servo cylinder is 5/8" diameter and the BJ8 (servo) one
is 7/8" dia.

Michael Salter.

On Fri, Sep 30, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net>wrote:

> What are the differences between the servo and non-servo master cylinders?
>
>
>
> Herb Miller
>
> 1962 BT7
>
> 1967 BJ8

From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Sep 30 17:46:06 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:46:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+Q_p6wQdvfWhuzWBboZm31fU6RzatASooEPhRb1v3qRw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001cc7f7c$3084e5f0$918eb1d0$@qwest.net>
	<CAFBXTk+Q_p6wQdvfWhuzWBboZm31fU6RzatASooEPhRb1v3qRw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE4DE24164F0BE-5BC-18F8D@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

Alan
One correction. The servo master cylinders are 7/8 inch diameter, which is
larger than the non servo versions.
Aloha
Perry


Alan wrote:


"The servo master is smaller in diameter."

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 30 17:53:19 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 07:53:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <8CE4DE24164F0BE-5BC-18F8D@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000001cc7f7c$3084e5f0$918eb1d0$@qwest.net>
	<CAFBXTk+Q_p6wQdvfWhuzWBboZm31fU6RzatASooEPhRb1v3qRw@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CE4DE24164F0BE-5BC-18F8D@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+23ipDrKwtPMGZVMKKZcAxbXwxEUkGSYbx2Xk5ojW=Xw@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry, I always get that backwards.  Hydraulic engineer I am not!

On 10/1/11, healeyguy at aol.com <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>
> Alan
> One correction. The servo master cylinders are 7/8 inch diameter, which is
> larger than the non servo versions.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
> Alan wrote:
>
>
> "The servo master is smaller in diameter."
>>
>
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From scvc70 at epix.net  Fri Sep 30 18:49:55 2011
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 20:49:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] derelict BN2 for sale
Message-ID: <6D46A3616C8749F58B082CAE64993B71@valuedea617bbe>

Listers,

This past summer we hauled home a BN2 (ex-F/P race car) that had been left
outside for too many years -- its owner was going to junk it.  (Some people
rescue stray dogs; I rescue old cars....)  Shrouds and boot lid are rough but
useable; radiator and front shocks look good; grille surprisingly nice; engine
is a big lump of rust (car had no hood); not sure about gearbox or rear end;
no dash/interior, and frame is rotted.  If any of you are interested, please
contact me OFF LIST for pix/further details.  It's going to eBay if not sold
within a month.

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Sep 30 20:01:00 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2011 02:01:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?whats_in_your_boot=3F?=
Message-ID: <20111001020100.29827.qmail@server278.com>

 i bought one of those small hydraulic jacks a few years back(walmart, i think).  before i put it in the "boot" i let the air out of both a front and back tire to see if i could get it under with the tire flat.  had to take the grinder and grind off the little round thinggy that goes on top of the lift.  mine would not fit under a flat tire unless i did that.  works so far.    hjim

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Sep 30 20:40:07 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey])
Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 12:40:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <8CE4DE24164F0BE-5BC-18F8D@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000001cc7f7c$3084e5f0$918eb1d0$@qwest.net>
	<CAFBXTk+Q_p6wQdvfWhuzWBboZm31fU6RzatASooEPhRb1v3qRw@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CE4DE24164F0BE-5BC-18F8D@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAKAwfjf=gzHsOueHcd1v_r09WUX_-5inPh99eA7sn=cQAO3gyw@mail.gmail.com>

I've been looking at Healey brake balance a bit lately.
If you look at the evolution of Healey 3000 brakes, as I undestand it, we
had:
Rear wheel cylinder diameter of 3/4 in, 11 inch drum - with a type 14 (1.893
in dia piston) front caliper - with a 3/4in master cylinder
Rear wheel cylinder diameter of 3/4 in, 11 in drum - with a Type 16 ( 2.125
in dia piston) front caliper - with a 3/4 in master cylinder
Rear wheel cylinder diameter of 3/4 in, 11 in drum - with a type 16 (2.125
in dia piston) front caliper -  with a 7/8in master cylinder - and a booster

So the front brakes increased - but the rears didn't????
So who has EVER locked their Healey 3000 rear brakes? I'm betting no
one.....

Has anyone tried 7/8in rear wheel cylinders on a BJ8? Morgan ones look the
perfect swap over....

Chris

On Sat, Oct 1, 2011 at 9:46 AM, <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

> Alan
> One correction. The servo master cylinders are 7/8 inch diameter, which is
> larger than the non servo versions.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
> Alan wrote:
>
>
> "The servo master is smaller in diameter."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From hstandfa at iinet.net.au  Fri Sep 30 22:35:41 2011
From: hstandfa at iinet.net.au (Noel and Helen standfast)
Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2011 14:35:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake squeal
Message-ID: <4E86989D.2040608@iinet.net.au>

Hi Kenny

I had the dreaded squeal with both my BN7 and BJ8 and tried all the 
usual shims, stick on pads and anti squeal goops available and they all 
failed after a short time.  On the advice of a fellow AHOC member 
installed EBC greenstuff pads and no more problems plus improved braking

cheers


Noel S

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Sep 30 22:45:38 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 23:45:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey History Mystery
Message-ID: <F9D1E4407D8746C0A06C78F1A96E40AC@GregPC>

I was reading the latest issue of Road and Track (November), in the letters
section a Mr. Andrew Wortman of Santa Monica California, USA, tells the story
of how he met Phil Hill at Monza in 1959:  "..Where I paid to test my specual
Austin Healey...the car was an unexpected new model that could not be
delivered and I was given a very fast version specially prepared for the
press"

Anybody know or have an educated or wild ass guess of the car in question or
any other circumstances surrounding this interesting little tidbit?

Greg Lemon

From slomo100 at sisna.com  Fri Sep 30 23:18:29 2011
From: slomo100 at sisna.com (John Morrison)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 23:18:29 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition condenser fault
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+QDXmAQ_aiKFG9a_mNFCBf39XvkN1nT_qqKZ83H=AX0Qhrekg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGpHTdxnDhG_JEyvsVOx0JkML9anxpEB7p2FVS0HiwBEFhOuqw@mail.gmail.com>

What Coil are you using?  If it isn't ballasted you need to install an
external ballast.

On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 9:47 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> Dear Friends,
>
> My BN4 ate 2 new condensers during 360 miles. Bad quality items, or
> something faulty in the ignition system?
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/slomo100 at sisna.com

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 30 23:37:54 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 22:37:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <CAKAwfjf=gzHsOueHcd1v_r09WUX_-5inPh99eA7sn=cQAO3gyw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1317447474.62928.YahooMailClassic@web65912.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I lock up the rears all the time. I think it has to do with the
modern-asbestos-free pads being less sticky. I "heard tell" BMW reformulated
the steel in the rotors when "they" took asbestos out of the pads.

Greg

---
On Fri, 9/30/11, Chris Dimmock [Healey] <austin.healey at gmail.com> wrote:

>
From: Chris Dimmock [Healey] <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Brake master cylinder
> To: healeyguy at aol.com,
msalter at precisionsportscar.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday,
September 30, 2011, 10:40 PM
> I've been looking at Healey brake
> balance a
bit lately.
> If you look at the evolution of Healey 3000 brakes, as I
>
undestand it, we
> had:
> Rear wheel cylinder diameter of 3/4 in, 11 inch drum
- with
> a type 14 (1.893
> in dia piston) front caliper - with a 3/4in master
> cylinder
> Rear wheel cylinder diameter of 3/4 in, 11 in drum - with a
>
Type 16 ( 2.125
> in dia piston) front caliper - with a 3/4 in master
>
cylinder
> Rear wheel cylinder diameter of 3/4 in, 11 in drum - with a
> type
16 (2.125
> in dia piston) front caliper -  with a 7/8in master
> cylinder -
and a booster
> 
> So the front brakes increased - but the rears didn't????
>
So who has EVER locked their Healey 3000 rear brakes? I'm
> betting no
>
one.....
> 
> Has anyone tried 7/8in rear wheel cylinders on a BJ8?
> Morgan
ones look the
> perfect swap over....
> 
> Chris
> 
> On Sat, Oct 1, 2011 at
9:46 AM, <healeyguy at aol.com>
> wrote:
> 
> > Alan
> > One correction. The
servo master cylinders are 7/8
> inch diameter, which is
> > larger than the
non servo versions.
> > Aloha
> > Perry
> >
> >
> > Alan wrote:
> >
> >
> >
"The servo master is smaller in diameter."
> >
_______________________________________________