From insptwo at msn.com Sat Oct 1 08:23:49 2011 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 10:23:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] whats in your boot? In-Reply-To: <20111001020100.29827.qmail@server278.com> References: <20111001020100.29827.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: I use a Clark forklift jack, fits in the boot quite well and really is close to the ground. Fits under the Healey even with the tire completely off the car. Bill BJ7 > From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 02:01:00 +0000 > Subject: [Healeys] whats in your boot? > > i bought one of those small hydraulic jacks a few years back(walmart, i think). before i put it in the "boot" i let the air out of both a front and back tire to see if i could get it under with the tire flat. had to take the grinder and grind off the little round thinggy that goes on top of the lift. mine would not fit under a flat tire unless i did that. works so far. hjim From ynotink at msn.com Sat Oct 1 13:05:25 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 19:05:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] whats in your boot? In-Reply-To: References: <20111001020100.29827.qmail@server278.com>, Message-ID: Did you have to do anything to the rear springs? > From: insptwo at msn.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 10:23:49 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] whats in your boot? > > I use a Clark forklift jack, fits in the boot quite well and really is close > to the ground. Fits under the Healey even with the tire completely off the > car. > Bill > BJ7 > > > > From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 02:01:00 +0000 > > Subject: [Healeys] whats in your boot? > > > > i bought one of those small hydraulic jacks a few years back(walmart, i > think). before i put it in the "boot" i let the air out of both a front and > back tire to see if i could get it under with the tire flat. had to take the > grinder and grind off the little round thinggy that goes on top of the lift. > mine would not fit under a flat tire unless i did that. works so far. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Oct 1 16:53:39 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 06:53:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Brake squeal In-Reply-To: <4E86989D.2040608@iinet.net.au> References: <4E86989D.2040608@iinet.net.au> Message-ID: Yes, I use EBC Redstuff on my Mk IX Jag, and it cured the squeek. Good stuff from EBC On Sat, Oct 1, 2011 at 12:35 PM, Noel and Helen standfast < hstandfa at iinet.net.au> wrote: > Hi Kenny > > I had the dreaded squeal with both my BN7 and BJ8 and tried all the usual > shims, stick on pads and anti squeal goops available and they all failed > after a short time. On the advice of a fellow AHOC member installed EBC > greenstuff pads and no more problems plus improved braking > > cheers > > > Noel S > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 1 20:03:53 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2011 19:03:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> I painted my transmission 6 days ago with epoxy primer. It is a little tacky in places and does not seem to have dried properly. Is this normal and can it be painted with engine enamel or do I need to remove it and prime it again? Thanks, John San Jose From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Oct 1 23:06:55 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 16:06:55 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6F588DB8-35B8-4C4D-A5DE-A459CAEA1C0E@gmail.com> John, Possibly a silly question, but was it a 2 part epoxy? Did you not add sufficent hardener? Maybe re read the instructions?? Chris Sent from my iPhone On 02/10/2011, at 1:03 PM, john spaur wrote: > I painted my transmission 6 days ago with epoxy primer. It is a > little tacky in places and does not seem to have dried properly. Is > this normal and can it be painted with engine enamel or do I need to > remove it and prime it again? > > Thanks, > John > San Jose > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Oct 1 23:13:00 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 22:13:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sounds like it didn't have enough catalyst mixed in. Not sure how to remove it.... On Oct 1, 2011 9:29 PM, "john spaur" wrote: > I painted my transmission 6 days ago with epoxy primer. It is a > little tacky in places and does not seem to have dried properly. Is > this normal and can it be painted with engine enamel or do I need to > remove it and prime it again? > > Thanks, > John > San Jose > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From rwil at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 2 00:14:06 2011 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2011 23:14:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Did you add the catalyst? It should have hardened within hours, not days. -Roland On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 19:03:53 -0700, you wrote: ::I painted my transmission 6 days ago with epoxy primer. It is a ::little tacky in places and does not seem to have dried properly. Is ::this normal and can it be painted with engine enamel or do I need to ::remove it and prime it again? :: ::Thanks, ::John ::San Jose From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 2 00:22:08 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 14:22:08 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Is this a two pack epoxy? If so it sounds like you didn't mix it well enough and part of it didn't get enough of the fixing agent/hardner. You can try spraying some fixer on it, or alternatively you can put the whole business in an oven for a couple hours at around 250 or so. You will need to replace the seals if you do this. On 10/2/11, john spaur wrote: > I painted my transmission 6 days ago with epoxy primer. It is a > little tacky in places and does not seem to have dried properly. Is > this normal and can it be painted with engine enamel or do I need to > remove it and prime it again? > > Thanks, > John > San Jose > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Oct 2 01:18:33 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 02:18:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <04304D93C3F7490CB3994DA2DEBE7B79@GregPC> Try a little heat, set it in the sun for a few hours or blow some hot (not so hot that you blister it mind you) air on it and see if that helps it to set up. easier than stripping and repainting. Greg Lemon From INSIDEDIM at aol.com Sun Oct 2 04:01:48 2011 From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 06:01:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer Message-ID: I know this is about epoxy, but just a reminder to all. I painted my BJ8 with PPG acrylic lacquer and there is a summer and winter acrylic thinner. If you use the wrong one you're screwed. Don't bother asking how I know. Bill F.H., MI In a message dated 10/2/2011 4:22:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rwil at sbcglobal.net writes: Did you add the catalyst? It should have hardened within hours, not days. -Roland On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 19:03:53 -0700, you wrote: ::I painted my transmission 6 days ago with epoxy primer. It is a ::little tacky in places and does not seem to have dried properly. Is ::this normal and can it be painted with engine enamel or do I need to ::remove it and prime it again? :: ::Thanks, ::John ::San Jose _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/insidedim at aol.com From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Sun Oct 2 07:08:32 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 08:08:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: john, on the can, did it say "for professional use only"? cheers, jerry On Sat, Oct 1, 2011 at 9:03 PM, john spaur wrote: > I painted my transmission 6 days ago with epoxy primer. It is a little > tacky in places and does not seem to have dried properly. Is this normal and > can it be painted with engine enamel or do I need to remove it and prime it > again? > > Thanks, > John > San Jose > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@**gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From scvc70 at epix.net Sun Oct 2 11:25:17 2011 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 13:25:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 top Message-ID: Listers, Having decided on a different color combination for my BN1, I no longer need a black vinyl top----bought new from Moss in 1997 (some projects take longer than planned....) If interested, please contact me OFF LIST. I can take it to Hershey with me. Sarah Carr BN1 in PA From mjb at autox.team.net Sun Oct 2 11:56:05 2011 From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 11:56:05 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] List issues Message-ID: <20111002175605.209DC187675@autox.team.net> Not only is the Team.Net server taking a loooong time to get list messages processed, the archives [ link below ] are not getting updated properly. In truth the messages are getting processed and put in the right place, but for some reason the top level archive page is not showing the updates. And of course the mailman interface is having problems, giving errors on various functions. Something odd is going on, I'm looking into it. I *really* need to get the new server up and running! mjb. 11:55 From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Oct 2 12:40:28 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 11:40:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts Message-ID: Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am putting my car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small parts. These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in place. They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, maybe I could find them. I don't know whether they are American or Whitworth or.......? At least I still have the master cylinder. Austin Healey 100-M BN2 Thanks in advance. Mike From ynotink at msn.com Sun Oct 2 15:06:08 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 21:06:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just from trying wrenches on my BN1 it looks like a 5/16" SAE (1/2" wrench). The next closest was a 1/4" Whitworth. I suggest you try both a 5/16" SAE bolt and a 1/4" BSF and see which fits the hole or which threads more easily. Good luck. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 > From: phoenix722 at comcast.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 11:40:28 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] lost parts > > Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am putting my > car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small parts. > These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in place. > They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, maybe > I could find them. I don't know whether they are American or Whitworth > or.......? > > At least I still have the master cylinder. > > Austin Healey 100-M > BN2 > > Thanks in advance. > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 2 15:32:32 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 05:32:32 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike - The only BSF threads on your car will be in and around the engine, although for a BN2 I think even most of these are UNF. Everything on the chassis will be UNF. I think that bolt offhand is a 7/16" UNF bolt, grade 5, somewhere around 4" long. You can get that bolt at your local ACE hardware, Pep Boys or Home Depot. UNF will also be called "SAE Fine" in the US. Alan On 10/3/11, Mike Sinclair wrote: > Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am putting > my > car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small parts. > These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in place. > They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, > maybe > I could find them. I don't know whether they are American or Whitworth > or.......? > > At least I still have the master cylinder. > > Austin Healey 100-M > BN2 > > Thanks in advance. > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Sun Oct 2 16:52:01 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 17:52:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> Alan seigrist is correct. All will be sae or unf except engine, which will be whithwort. jose Sent from my iPad On Oct 2, 2011, at 4:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Just from trying wrenches on my BN1 it looks like a 5/16" SAE (1/2" wrench). > The next closest was a 1/4" Whitworth. I suggest you try both a 5/16" SAE bolt > and a 1/4" BSF and see which fits the hole or which threads more easily. > > Good luck. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > >> From: phoenix722 at comcast.net >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 11:40:28 -0700 >> Subject: [Healeys] lost parts >> >> Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am putting > my >> car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small > parts. >> These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in place. >> They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, > maybe >> I could find them. I don't know whether they are American or Whitworth >> or.......? >> >> At least I still have the master cylinder. >> >> Austin Healey 100-M >> BN2 >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Mike >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From shop at justbrits.com Sun Oct 2 16:54:40 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2011 17:54:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E88EBB0.2070907@justbrits.com> << I think that bolt offhand is a 7/16" UNF bolt, grade 5, somewhere around 4" long. >> Sounds right. << You can get that bolt at your local ACE hardware, Pep Boys or Home Depot. >> Doubt it !! IIRC, it is a "shouldered" piece of a spec'ed length --- which IS important ! ! !. Ed 1] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com 2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at: www.spritenut.com Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED ! From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 2 18:53:27 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2011 17:53:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sticky primer In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111001190200.02072ac8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111002175123.020a5e18@pop.att.yahoo.com> More time in the sun seemed to have hardened the paint up. I bought the primer early last spring so it might have been a little old. My thanks to all of those that offered suggestions. John At 07:03 PM 10/1/2011 -0700, john spaur wrote: >The epoxy primer is a little tacky in places and does not seem to >have dried properly. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun Oct 2 18:56:35 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 17:56:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike, The two long bolts you need are slightly different in length. I will look and see if I can get you the exact measurements. Failing that, just take the master cylinder to your local hardware store and get two machine bolts where the thread protrudes past the housing and will thread into the captive threads on the frame (from about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch) Grade 5 will work fine (that's essentially equivalent to the Grade "R: bolts that were used originally), or Grade 8, but don't use Grade 2. Cheers, Curt On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am putting > my > car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small > parts. > These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in place. > They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, > maybe > I could find them. I don't know whether they are American or Whitworth > or.......? > > At least I still have the master cylinder. > > Austin Healey 100-M > BN2 > > Thanks in advance. > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 2 19:02:25 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 09:02:25 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <4E88EBB0.2070907@justbrits.com> References: <4E88EBB0.2070907@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ed / Mike - If you get the Grade 5 bolt from an automotive parts supplier like Pep Boys, it will almost definitely have the proper shoulder on it. Again, the size the bolt will be sold as will probably be 7/16". Put some UNF/SAE bolts in there and see which fits. Alan On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 6:54 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << I think that bolt offhand is a 7/16" UNF bolt, grade 5, > somewhere around 4" long. >> > > Sounds right. > > > << You can get that bolt at your local ACE hardware, Pep Boys > or Home Depot. >> > > Doubt it !! IIRC, it is a "shouldered" piece of a spec'ed > length --- which IS important ! ! !. > > Ed > 1] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com > 2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at: www.spritenut.com > Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED ! > > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 2 19:04:21 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 09:04:21 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jose - Technically speaking the bolts on the engine are BSF, which is different to Whitworth. I think one of the last major production cars to use Whitworth bolts and nuts was the MG TC. By the late 1940s, most British car manufacturers were using BSF. Cheers, Alan On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 6:52 AM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote: > Alan seigrist is correct. All will be sae or unf except engine, which will > be > whithwort. > > > jose > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Oct 2, 2011, at 4:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > > Just from trying wrenches on my BN1 it looks like a 5/16" SAE (1/2" > wrench). > > The next closest was a 1/4" Whitworth. I suggest you try both a 5/16" SAE > bolt > > and a 1/4" BSF and see which fits the hole or which threads more easily. > > > > Good luck. > > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > > >> From: phoenix722 at comcast.net > >> To: healeys at autox.team.net > >> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 11:40:28 -0700 > >> Subject: [Healeys] lost parts > >> > >> Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am > putting > > my > >> car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small > > parts. > >> These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in > place. > >> They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, > > maybe > >> I could find them. I don't know whether they are American or Whitworth > >> or.......? > >> > >> At least I still have the master cylinder. > >> > >> Austin Healey 100-M > >> BN2 > >> > >> Thanks in advance. > >> > >> Mike > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Sun Oct 2 19:35:56 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 20:35:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <83A88293-CBE8-44A5-8968-07770754B5C2@yahoo.com> As usual Alan is correct. I have an MG TC, a TD and the AH 100/4 plus a 1961 Mini, so I should known and having most of the BSF tap and dies In my workshop I flunked.... the only excuse is that I am begining to restore an Alfa Romeo duetto so I am beginning to think, eat, drink and speak Italian.... Besides I am expecting the arrival of a Maxjax, which has me very excited.... Jose Bogota, Colombia Sent from my iPad On Oct 2, 2011, at 8:04 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Jose - > > Technically speaking the bolts on the engine are BSF, which is different to Whitworth. I think one of the last major production cars to use Whitworth bolts and nuts was the MG TC. By the late 1940s, most British car manufacturers were using BSF. > > Cheers, > > Alan > > On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 6:52 AM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote: > Alan seigrist is correct. All will be sae or unf except engine, which will be > whithwort. > > > jose > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Oct 2, 2011, at 4:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > > Just from trying wrenches on my BN1 it looks like a 5/16" SAE (1/2" > wrench). > > The next closest was a 1/4" Whitworth. I suggest you try both a 5/16" SAE > bolt > > and a 1/4" BSF and see which fits the hole or which threads more easily. > > > > Good luck. > > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > > >> From: phoenix722 at comcast.net > >> To: healeys at autox.team.net > >> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 11:40:28 -0700 > >> Subject: [Healeys] lost parts > >> > >> Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am > putting > > my > >> car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small > > parts. > >> These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in place. > >> They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, > > maybe > >> I could find them. I don't know whether they are American or Whitworth > >> or.......? > >> > >> At least I still have the master cylinder. > >> > >> Austin Healey 100-M > >> BN2 > >> > >> Thanks in advance. > >> > >> Mike > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun Oct 2 21:04:22 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 20:04:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Alan and Fellow Listers, Technically speaking, yes and no. By definition, *Whitworth Fasteners* are those fasteners that have a 55 degree angle of the threads. As such the five basic Whitworth fasteners (there are several more not worth mentioning) , they include... BSW - British Standard Whitworth BSF - British Standard Fine BSP or BSP(P) - British Standard Pipe or British Standard Pipe (Parallel) BSPT- British Standard Pipe Tapered BSB - British Standard Brass Just because it doesn't have Whitworth in the name , doesn't mean it's not a Whitworth thread form. This a common misconception. Cheers, Curt On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 6:04 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Jose - > > Technically speaking the bolts on the engine are BSF, which is different to > Whitworth. I think one of the last major production cars to use Whitworth > bolts and nuts was the MG TC. By the late 1940s, most British car > manufacturers were using BSF. > > Cheers, > > Alan > > On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 6:52 AM, Jose Vicente Vargas >wrote: > > > Alan seigrist is correct. All will be sae or unf except engine, which > will > > be > > whithwort. > > > > > > jose > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > > On Oct 2, 2011, at 4:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > > > > Just from trying wrenches on my BN1 it looks like a 5/16" SAE (1/2" > > wrench). > > > The next closest was a 1/4" Whitworth. I suggest you try both a 5/16" > SAE > > bolt > > > and a 1/4" BSF and see which fits the hole or which threads more > easily. > > > > > > Good luck. > > > > > > Bill Lawrence > > > BN1 #554 > > > > > >> From: phoenix722 at comcast.net > > >> To: healeys at autox.team.net > > >> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 11:40:28 -0700 > > >> Subject: [Healeys] lost parts > > >> > > >> Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am > > putting > > > my > > >> car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small > > > parts. > > >> These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in > > place. > > >> They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what > size, > > > maybe > > >> I could find them. I don't know whether they are American or > Whitworth > > >> or.......? > > >> > > >> At least I still have the master cylinder. > > >> > > >> Austin Healey 100-M > > >> BN2 > > >> > > >> Thanks in advance. > > >> > > >> Mike > > >> _______________________________________________ > > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sun Oct 2 21:39:25 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 20:39:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fraz Comic Strip vs LBCs Message-ID: October 2 strip. http://www.gocomics.com/frazz/2011/10/02 (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From randey_brophy at telus.net Sun Oct 2 21:45:06 2011 From: randey_brophy at telus.net (Randey Brophy) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 20:45:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] battery draining or not holding charge Message-ID: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> I have a 1965 fully restored BJ8 I replaced the battery recently and after 3 weeks of running fine the new battery is now not holding a charge. I have nothing in the car that would drain the battery-no radio etc- except for a Viper GPS, which everyone tells me shouldn't tax the battery. The Viper periodically reports battery low while I'm traveling in the car and today the car wouldn't start after a fill up and needed a few attempts at a jump start before it would turn over. Cruising back to town at 70-85 MPH the overdrive stopped working for a bit car automatically went our of overdrive and wouldn't go back in,then the ignition light came on indicating the battery's not charging; after awhile the ignition light went out overdrive worked again, but when I got home parked it and turned it off it wouldn't start again..Zilch after a 50 mile drive which should have recharged the battery. Please advise what's going on and what to do to fix this..thanks Randey Brophy 1747 Trafalgar St Vancouver BC V6K3R9 C 604 928 1866 randey_brophy at telus.net "You are what you do." cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From shop at justbrits.com Sun Oct 2 22:08:07 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2011 23:08:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E893527.90901@justbrits.com> In SOME cases Alan, << Technically speaking the bolts on the engine are BSF, which is different to Whitworth. >> you are double incorrect ! ! ! ! Have you heard of French Whitworth ?!?!?!?!?!? Moi PS: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Oct 3 01:11:31 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2011 09:11:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] battery draining or not holding charge In-Reply-To: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> References: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> Message-ID: <4E896023.2030100@chello.nl> Generator/alternator not charging. Item may be faulty or the regulator is not working as it should. Also try to use the battery switch if present to eliminate any current leaks. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 3-10-2011 5:45, Randey Brophy schreef: > I have a 1965 fully restored BJ8 I replaced the battery recently and > after 3 weeks of running fine the new battery is now not holding a charge. > I have nothing in the car that would drain the battery-no radio etc- except > for a Viper GPS, which everyone tells me shouldn't tax the battery. The > Viper periodically reports battery low while I'm traveling in the car and > today the car wouldn't start after a fill up and needed a few attempts at a > jump start before it would turn over. Cruising back to town at 70-85 MPH the > overdrive stopped working for a bit car automatically went our of overdrive > and wouldn't go back in,then the ignition light came on indicating the > battery's not charging; after awhile the ignition light went out overdrive > worked again, but when I got home parked it and turned it off it wouldn't > start again..Zilch after a 50 mile drive which should have recharged the > battery. Please advise what's going on and what to do to fix this..thanks > > > > Randey Brophy > > 1747 Trafalgar St > > Vancouver BC > > V6K3R9 > > C 604 928 1866 > > randey_brophy at telus.net > > "You are what you do." > > cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1809 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4533 - datum van uitgifte: 10/02/11 From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Oct 3 01:31:43 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 08:31:43 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Just a correction here. On the early BN1, the gearbox (not including the overdrive) the rear axle if four stud spiral bevel and the front and rear suspension were BSF threads. A simple way of looking at this is to consider what were Austin major units and what were BMC. BMC units, often based on Morris, started to take over with the later 5 stud Hypoid rear axle. Then with the BN2 the rest of the units, except the engine, fitted BMC units with UNF threads.. The bolts for the master cylinder are 5/16" UNF x3" with spring washers under the heads. I assume that you have the triangular aluminium spacer that is fitted to the chassis first with a countersunk screw? Regards >Alan seigrist is correct. All will be sae or unf except engine, which will be >whithwort. >>> From: phoenix722 at comcast.net >>> Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am >putting >> my >>> car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small >> parts. >>> These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in place. >>> They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, >> maybe -- John Harper From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 03:19:41 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 17:19:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Oh boy, I think my BN1 is missing this spacer, that's why the brake master doesn't line up properly? I had been shoving washers in there to try to line it up, I thought my chassis was damaged. Learn something new every day. Alan On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 3:31 PM, John Harper wrote: > Just a correction here. On the early BN1, the gearbox (not including the > overdrive) the rear axle if four stud spiral bevel and the front and rear > suspension were BSF threads. > > A simple way of looking at this is to consider what were Austin major units > and what were BMC. BMC units, often based on Morris, started to take over > with the later 5 stud Hypoid rear axle. Then with the BN2 the rest of the > units, except the engine, fitted BMC units with UNF threads.. > > The bolts for the master cylinder are 5/16" UNF x3" with spring washers > under the heads. > > I assume that you have the triangular aluminium spacer that is fitted to > the chassis first with a countersunk screw? > > Regards > > Alan seigrist is correct. All will be sae or unf except engine, which will >> be >> whithwort. >> >>> From: phoenix722 at comcast.net >>>> >>>> Help. This is my first posting, so hope I am doing it right. I am >>>> >>> putting >> >>> my >>> >>>> car back together after a long time, and can't find a couple of small >>>> >>> parts. >>> >>>> These would be the two bolts that hold the brake master cylinder in >>>> place. >>>> They screw into threaded holes. If you could advise me as to what size, >>>> >>> maybe >>> >> -- > John Harper > > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Oct 3 06:02:18 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 05:02:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update Message-ID: <1317643338.28293.YahooMailClassic@web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Nothing dramatic, just slow progress. Check out my link to the British V8 site below to see some low buck Lizard Skin, cheap big box insulation and try to figure out how I spent six hours fitting the shift boot. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Oct 3 06:27:22 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 08:27:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cc81c7$cd5eaa30$681bfe90$@net> Sorry John, according to the Parts List, under Controls, Page 5, no spacer on LH drive cars. Also though I seem to recall 5/16" UNF threads on those bolts, why does the Parts List call for two 52K 1574 Setscrews, which are specific Austin part numbers instead of them being a standard BMC hardware number. That's why I thought they are BSF. Rich Chrysler -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: 2011-10-03 5:20 To: John Harper Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] lost parts Oh boy, I think my BN1 is missing this spacer, that's why the brake master doesn't line up properly? I had been shoving washers in there to try to line it up, I thought my chassis was damaged. Learn something new every day. Alan On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 3:31 PM, John Harper wrote: > Just a correction here. On the early BN1, the gearbox (not including the > overdrive) the rear axle if four stud spiral bevel and the front and rear > suspension were BSF threads. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Oct 3 06:39:06 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 06:39:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <4E893527.90901@justbrits.com> References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> <4E893527.90901@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <07CAE21C5CCD42E6A5C63220A80853FD@oscar> My history may be a bit sketchy, but what Ed is talking about, I think, is just prior to WWI the French company Hotchkiss moved their factory to the UK so as not to get bombed out by the Germans. Their tooling was subsequently bought by Morris, who didn't bother to change the threading and that is why an MG TC (for instance)has 3 distinctly different thread pitches.. If any of the historians out there can expand on this or correct me please feel free. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 07:22:50 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 21:22:50 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <000001cc81c7$cd5eaa30$681bfe90$@net> References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> <000001cc81c7$cd5eaa30$681bfe90$@net> Message-ID: Probably because the bolt had a custom length shoulder? On 10/3/11, Rich C wrote: > Sorry John, according to the Parts List, under Controls, Page 5, no spacer > on LH drive cars. Also though I seem to recall 5/16" UNF threads on those > bolts, why does the Parts List call for two 52K 1574 Setscrews, which are > specific Austin part numbers instead of them being a standard BMC hardware > number. That's why I thought they are BSF. > > Rich Chrysler > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: 2011-10-03 5:20 > To: John Harper > Cc: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] lost parts > > Oh boy, I think my BN1 is missing this spacer, that's why the brake master > doesn't line up properly? I had been shoving washers in there to try to > line it up, I thought my chassis was damaged. Learn something new every > day. > > Alan > > On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 3:31 PM, John Harper wrote: > >> Just a correction here. On the early BN1, the gearbox (not including the >> overdrive) the rear axle if four stud spiral bevel and the front and rear >> suspension were BSF threads. > > -- Sent from my mobile device From warthodson at aol.com Mon Oct 3 07:34:54 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 09:34:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] battery draining or not holding charge In-Reply-To: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> References: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> Message-ID: <8CE4FE85ECED69E-25E8-60B2D@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com> If the battery is new, then it is not the battery's fault. Besides the regulator &/or the generator being prime suspects you might also check the connections at the battery, the disconnect switch including the correct functioning of the switch & white/black grounding wire, the engine ground strap. Did you reverse the polarity so that you could use a GPS & make other modifications which might be contributing the the charging problems. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Randey Brophy To: healeys Sent: Sun, Oct 2, 2011 11:56 pm Subject: [Healeys] battery draining or not holding charge I have a 1965 fully restored BJ8 I replaced the battery recently and fter 3 weeks of running fine the new battery is now not holding a charge. have nothing in the car that would drain the battery-no radio etc- except or a Viper GPS, which everyone tells me shouldn't tax the battery. The iper periodically reports battery low while I'm traveling in the car and oday the car wouldn't start after a fill up and needed a few attempts at a ump start before it would turn over. Cruising back to town at 70-85 MPH the verdrive stopped working for a bit car automatically went our of overdrive nd wouldn't go back in,then the ignition light came on indicating the attery's not charging; after awhile the ignition light went out overdrive orked again, but when I got home parked it and turned it off it wouldn't tart again..Zilch after a 50 mile drive which should have recharged the attery. Please advise what's going on and what to do to fix this..thanks Randey Brophy 1747 Trafalgar St Vancouver BC V6K3R9 C 604 928 1866 randey_brophy at telus.net "You are what you do." cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of mage001.png] ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From scvc70 at epix.net Mon Oct 3 07:41:20 2011 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 09:41:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 -- message for Jorge Garcia Message-ID: Jorge -- you requested photos of the BN2 -- emails to your address are being rejected. Please contact me off-list with a working address. Sarah Carr BN1 in PA From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Mon Oct 3 07:57:10 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 08:57:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <07CAE21C5CCD42E6A5C63220A80853FD@oscar> References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> <4E893527.90901@justbrits.com> <07CAE21C5CCD42E6A5C63220A80853FD@oscar> Message-ID: <2704FAFA-17A3-4DE1-9315-6CA206B66110@yahoo.com> This is why we love british cars so much. A controversy never ends !! Sent from my iPad On Oct 3, 2011, at 7:39 AM, "David Porter" wrote: > My history may be a bit sketchy, but what Ed is talking about, I think, is > just prior to WWI the French company Hotchkiss moved their factory to the UK > so as not to get bombed out by the Germans. Their tooling was subsequently > bought by Morris, who didn't bother to change the threading and that is why > an MG TC (for instance)has 3 distinctly different thread pitches.. > If any of the historians out there can expand on this or correct me please > feel free. > dave > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From neilandcustom at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 07:58:03 2011 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 08:58:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below Message-ID: <002401cc81d4$7988a570$6c99f050$@com> This BJ8 was on BaT this morning. Except for a couple of mods, it looks to be quite complete, and decent original condition. The third owner has had car for forty years, 53,000 miles, asking $42,450. Is it worth the price?? Grab it before Steve Tanner does. BaT link: http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/03/seller-submission-1967-mkiii-austin-heal ey-bj8/ Seller link: http://www.astonmartin-lotus.com/inventory/detail/826-austin_healey_3000_mki ii Neil Anderson BT7 AN5 project From pieters at pt.lu Mon Oct 3 08:33:43 2011 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 16:33:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid Message-ID: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> Hi Guys, I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? Thanks as always, Piet From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 08:39:28 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 10:39:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Monday car-related humor Message-ID: *At a recent computer expo (COMDEX), Bill Gates reportedly compared the computer industry with the auto industry and stated, 'If Ford had kept up with technology like the computer industry has, we would all be driving $25 cars that got 1,000 miles to the gallon.' ** **In response to Bill's comments, Ford issued a press release stating**: ** **If Ford had developed technology like Microsoft, we would all be driving cars with the following characteristics (and I just love this part): 1. For no reason whatsoever, your car would crash.........Twice a day. 2.. Every time they repainted the lines in the road, you would have to buy a new car.* * **3... Occasionally your car would die on the freeway for no reason. You would have to pull to the side of the road, close all of the windows, shut off the car, restart it, and reopen the windows before you could continue. For some reason you would simply accept this. 4. Occasionally, executing a maneuver such as a left turn would cause your car to shut down and refuse to restart, in which case you would have to reinstall the engine.* * **5. Macintosh would make a car that was powered by the sun, was reliable, five times as fast and twice as easy to drive - but would run on only five percent of the roads. 6. The oil, water temperature, and alternator warning lights would all be replaced by a single 'This Car Has Performed An Illegal Operation' warning light.* * **I love the next one!!!* * **7. The airbag system would ask 'Are you sure?' before deploying. 8. Occasionally, for no reason whatsoever, your car would lock you out and refuse to let you in until you simultaneously lifted the door handle, turned the key and grabbed hold of the radio antenna.* * **9. Every time a new car was introduced car buyers would have to learn how to drive all over again because none of the controls would operate in the same manner as the old car. 10. You'd have to press the 'Start' button to turn the engine off.* * **11. And when all else fails, you could call 'customer service' in some foreign country and be instructed in some foreign language how to fix your car yourself.* * * *Best--Michael Oritt* --**** ** From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 08:52:15 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 10:52:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Spridget axle tip needed Message-ID: I need to replace the left end of my Elva Courier's rear axle housing as the threaded tip is worn out. Spridgets use the same axle as does the Courier, just a few inches shorter (narrower track). Does anyone have a Spridget or Morris axle housing they would be willing to sell me? If so it would be easiest to simply sawzall about six inches off the left end of the axle and send that. Please contact me offlist or call at: 305-793-9467. Best--Michael Oritt From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Mon Oct 3 09:11:46 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard Hartnett) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 11:11:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 6 Message-ID: <31234202.1317654706840.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> hello! http://sem-taky.hustej.net/fxizyrjvs4.html?njfortuneid=5aja From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 3 09:25:25 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 08:25:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] battery draining or not holding charge In-Reply-To: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> References: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> Message-ID: The generator is not charging the battery. Either a faulty generator or a faulty regulator. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Oct 2, 2011, at 8:45 PM, Randey Brophy wrote: > I have a 1965 fully restored BJ8 I replaced the battery recently > and > after 3 weeks of running fine the new battery is now not holding > a charge. > I have nothing in the car that would drain the battery-no radio > etc- except > for a Viper GPS, which everyone tells me shouldn't tax the battery. > The > Viper periodically reports battery low while I'm traveling in the > car and > today the car wouldn't start after a fill up and needed a few > attempts at a > jump start before it would turn over. Cruising back to town at > 70-85 MPH the > overdrive stopped working for a bit car automatically went our of > overdrive > and wouldn't go back in,then the ignition light came on indicating the > battery's not charging; after awhile the ignition light went out > overdrive > worked again, but when I got home parked it and turned it off it > wouldn't > start again..Zilch after a 50 mile drive which should have > recharged the > battery. Please advise what's going on and what to do to fix > this..thanks > > > > Randey Brophy > > 1747 Trafalgar St > > Vancouver BC > > V6K3R9 > > C 604 928 1866 > > randey_brophy at telus.net > > "You are what you do." > > cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a > name of image001.png] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From britishcars at shaw.ca Mon Oct 3 10:04:11 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 09:04:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> References: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> Message-ID: <001501cc81e6$17136530$453a2f90$@ca> How's the oil level in the transmission? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 7:34 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid Hi Guys, I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? Thanks as always, Piet _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 3 10:16:19 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 16:16:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> Message-ID: <505510322.1507593.1317658579529.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: "My only suspect it the solenoid" Why the rush to judgement without diagosis? The shop manual has a good diagnostic sequence. Had similar symptoms on my BJ8 a few years ago. Tracked it to the O/D relay--courtesy of the manual--and filed the points and the problem went away (you can carefully open up the relay to inspect the points). That's an easy/free check. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: "Healey List" Sent: Monday, October 3, 2011 7:33:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid Hi Guys, I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? Thanks as always, Piet From pieters at pt.lu Mon Oct 3 10:32:05 2011 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 18:32:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <001501cc81e6$17136530$453a2f90$@ca> References: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> <001501cc81e6$17136530$453a2f90$@ca> Message-ID: Up to the mark with Redline MT90 which I have used for fe years now with no issues. On 03/10/2011, at 6:04 PM, PG wrote: > How's the oil level in the transmission? > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 7:34 AM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid > > Hi Guys, > I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with > upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes > of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a > throttle > switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, > one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the > internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the > stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? > > 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety > of > prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the > same? > Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? > > Thanks as always, > Piet > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From pieters at pt.lu Mon Oct 3 10:36:01 2011 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 18:36:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <505510322.1507593.1317658579529.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <505510322.1507593.1317658579529.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0F6C0656-7AB4-461C-87F9-BB2448AB59F1@pt.lu> Bob, I haven't rushed to a conclusion. This has been going on for a few weeks now and I have checked everything I can. Oil pressure is good, oil level is good. I have checked and cleaned filters. Checked and filed the relay points. Adjusted, checked and rechecked the solenoid adjustment. I don't know a way of checking the internal solenoid switch of the strength of the smaller field coils. Hence my question, Pieter On 03/10/2011, at 6:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > re: "My only suspect it the solenoid" > > Why the rush to judgement without diagosis? The shop manual has a good diagnostic sequence. > > Had similar symptoms on my BJ8 a few years ago. Tracked it to the O/D relay--courtesy of the manual--and filed the points and the problem went away (you can carefully open up the relay to inspect the points). That's an easy/free check. > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > From: "Pieter and Linda" > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Monday, October 3, 2011 7:33:43 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid > > Hi Guys, > I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with > upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes > of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle > switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, > one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the > internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the > stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? > > 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of > prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? > Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? > > Thanks as always, > Piet From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Mon Oct 3 10:36:43 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 09:36:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] hello! In-Reply-To: <4E89E06E.2020005@pacbell.net> References: <30916045.1317654684731.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <4E89E06E.2020005@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <6D97FC75924849F9A79806B3E345EF2E@LeonardPCPC> Bill: What message? I obviously have a problem. I received over 50 'failure to deliver' messages this morning. Many of them to recipients that are not on the Healey Mail List. Someone get into my address book? If they were valid address, why did they fail to deliver? The last message I sent concerned the Fraz comic strip/british cars. Anyone else on The List get a bad e-mail from me? WHAT DO I DO NOW? I will run all my security scans again to see if anything is found. If nothing, then what??? (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: Mr. Bill To: Leonard Hartnett Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 9:18 AM Subject: Re: hello! Len, This e-mail from you sure looks like a virus to me! B~ When I was younger I could remember anything whether it had happened or not. But my facilities are decaying now and soon I shall be so I cannot remember anything but the things that never happened. -- Mark Twain On 10/3/2011 8:11 AM, Leonard Hartnett wrote: .. http://www.doctorayur.com/fxizyrjvs4.html?asgoogleid=88u2 From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Mon Oct 3 10:39:05 2011 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 12:39:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Monday car-related humor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003a01cc81ea$f918bc60$eb4a3520$@mindspring.com> Very very old one (vintage 1990's I think).... (Gates is more involved with his charity work than this stuff nowadays anyway) But then, this is a list for vintage stuff...:-) Thanks -skip- BJ7, BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 3 10:41:36 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 16:41:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below In-Reply-To: <002401cc81d4$7988a570$6c99f050$@com> Message-ID: <138979470.1509457.1317660096713.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> At first glance, it looks like a steal. However, I'd want to see the underside (it looks like there might be rust issues on the bottom edges of the body). The paint looks original, but overall it seems to be in rattier shape than you'd expect for such a low-mileage car. I have to wonder how it was stored. FWIW, my BJ8 had 64K miles when I bought it, and overall was in better shape (I know, it's been almost 30 years since I bought my car). Did the (very) later BJ8s come with two amber parking/turn lights (per side), and red valve covers and a yellow head? Did they also come with train horns? Just curious ... Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- This BJ8 was on BaT this morning. Except for a couple of mods, it looks to be quite complete, and decent original condition. The third owner has had car for forty years, 53,000 miles, asking $42,450. Is it worth the price?? Grab it before Steve Tanner does. BaT link: http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/03/seller-submission-1967-mkiii-austin-heal ey-bj8/ Seller link: http://www.astonmartin-lotus.com/inventory/detail/826-austin_healey_3000_mki ii Neil Anderson BT7 AN5 project _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 3 10:44:59 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 16:44:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <0F6C0656-7AB4-461C-87F9-BB2448AB59F1@pt.lu> Message-ID: <390919318.1509656.1317660299426.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Did you check/change the switch? All the wiring and connections to the O/D? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: "Healey List" Sent: Monday, October 3, 2011 9:36:01 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid Bob, I haven't rushed to a conclusion. This has been going on for a few weeks now and I have checked everything I can. Oil pressure is good, oil level is good. I have checked and cleaned filters. Checked and filed the relay points. Adjusted, checked and rechecked the solenoid adjustment. I don't know a way of checking the internal solenoid switch of the strength of the smaller field coils. Hence my question, Pieter On 03/10/2011, at 6:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: re: "My only suspect it the solenoid" Why the rush to judgement without diagosis? The shop manual has a good diagnostic sequence. Had similar symptoms on my BJ8 a few years ago. Tracked it to the O/D relay--courtesy of the manual--and filed the points and the problem went away (you can carefully open up the relay to inspect the points). That's an easy/free check. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" < pieters at pt.lu > To: "Healey List" < healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, October 3, 2011 7:33:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid Hi Guys, I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? Thanks as always, Piet From pieters at pt.lu Mon Oct 3 10:52:26 2011 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 18:52:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <390919318.1509656.1317660299426.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <390919318.1509656.1317660299426.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <99DA89C3-D3CE-463D-B2E1-70C9FC561706@pt.lu> I did and I ran for a while with a test light connected between the solenoid wire and earth. When the O/D cuts in and out the light remains steady which to me indicates that it is not an interruption in the power supply to the solenoid itself. Piet On 03/10/2011, at 6:44 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Did you check/change the switch? All the wiring and connections to the O/D? > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > From: "Pieter and Linda" > To: "Bob Spidell" > Cc: "Healey List" > Sent: Monday, October 3, 2011 9:36:01 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid > > Bob, > I haven't rushed to a conclusion. This has been going on for a few weeks now and I have checked everything I can. Oil pressure is good, oil level is good. I have checked and cleaned filters. Checked and filed the relay points. Adjusted, checked and rechecked the solenoid adjustment. I don't know a way of checking the internal solenoid switch of the strength of the smaller field coils. Hence my question, > Pieter > On 03/10/2011, at 6:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > re: "My only suspect it the solenoid" > > Why the rush to judgement without diagosis? The shop manual has a good diagnostic sequence. > > Had similar symptoms on my BJ8 a few years ago. Tracked it to the O/D relay--courtesy of the manual--and filed the points and the problem went away (you can carefully open up the relay to inspect the points). That's an easy/free check. > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > From: "Pieter and Linda" > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Monday, October 3, 2011 7:33:43 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid > > Hi Guys, > I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with > upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes > of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle > switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, > one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the > internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the > stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? > > 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of > prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? > Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? > > Thanks as always, > Piet From JPayne at ThorCon.net Mon Oct 3 10:56:06 2011 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 09:56:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is suffering from a low RPM miss. Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any hard data. Does anybody know: If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? Is there any way to identify them? What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From britishcars at shaw.ca Mon Oct 3 11:00:16 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 10:00:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: References: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> <001501cc81e6$17136530$453a2f90$@ca> Message-ID: <003b01cc81ed$ecb4dcd0$c61e9670$@ca> I've had a problem with a "weak" solenoid where it wouldn't hold. I replaced it with one I had kicking around and everything was fine.. So, I can't tell you where to buy one...sorry. If not the solenoid, it could be the pump which can be checked with a pressure guage.....bit of a hassle. I would assume the solenoid first. Paul -----Original Message----- From: Pieter and Linda [mailto:pieters at pt.lu] Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 9:32 AM To: PG Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid Up to the mark with Redline MT90 which I have used for fe years now with no issues. On 03/10/2011, at 6:04 PM, PG wrote: > How's the oil level in the transmission? > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 7:34 AM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid > > Hi Guys, > I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with > upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes > of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a > throttle > switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, > one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the > internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the > stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? > > 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety > of > prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the > same? > Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? > > Thanks as always, > Piet > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From kags at shaw.ca Mon Oct 3 12:05:05 2011 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 11:05:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> References: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> Message-ID: <6CBB84B251464118A735EC9C120E9D3D@KagsLaptop> Piet: I've had this happen a couple of times. Turned out to be the gearshift lever switch on the transmission - the one that allows the overdrive to work only in the 3 -4 position. The switch would engage - but barely - when the transmission was cold and then either drop out, or go in and out when everything warmed up. The test for me was to apply momentary pressure to the shift lever (to the right I believe - it was a long time ago). If the overdrive then shifts back in and holds, simply adjust the switch at it's mount by re-shimming it so that it's closer to the activation point so it closes reliably when the lever is in the 3-4 position. If this turns out to be the cause, you'll probably notice a wear spot on the ball end of the switch. You haven't stated which Healey model you are referring to, but the situation can happen on either the side or top-shift transmissions. Worked for me! Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: Pieter and Linda Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 7:33 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid Hi Guys, I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? Thanks as always, Piet From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Oct 3 12:08:11 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 11:08:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below In-Reply-To: <002401cc81d4$7988a570$6c99f050$@com> Message-ID: <1317665291.34934.YahooMailClassic@web180602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> --- On Mon, 10/3/11, Neil Anderson wrote: Is it worth the price?? Grab it before Steve Tanner does. Why, none of his golden beige restorations were original golden beige cars. Just an observation. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Oct 3 13:02:22 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 20:02:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <000001cc81c7$cd5eaa30$681bfe90$@net> References: <8EFE6B0B-3AEB-4727-A160-EE59480060E9@yahoo.com> <000001cc81c7$cd5eaa30$681bfe90$@net> Message-ID: Rich You are right. There is no spacer on LHD cars. Unless somebody tells me that we are considering a LHD car, I assume RHD. You will no doubt do the opposite Just to be sure and as I just happen to have a RHD 100 jacked up at present. I remove a bolt to check. They are definitely 5/16" UNF but the length of the one I checked was 2 3/4" long. I guess that either this or a 3" would be OK. A LHD would be around 2 3/8" or 2 1/2" long. When I was based at BMC Service the standard fixings were only just coming in. There was a lot of work going on. For example the Morris Minor numbers has all been six figure numeric only. Most of these were changed to AAAxxxx numbers. Also the same part used by Austin and Morris would need a new number so that duplicated stock was not held. It does not surprise me that a few fixings that were not used in high volumes ended up with Austin style numbers. One also has to add in the rivalry and vested interests that existed in BMC at its formation. 55 years on I have friend who was a Morris apprentice. He tells me that there was never any really good relationships built up with Austin apprentices. This was no doubt another reason why BMC went through a variety of mergers but failed in the end. All the best >Sorry John, according to the Parts List, under Controls, Page 5, no spacer >on LH drive cars. Also though I seem to recall 5/16" UNF threads on those >bolts, why does the Parts List call for two 52K 1574 Setscrews, which are >specific Austin part numbers instead of them being a standard BMC hardware >number. That's why I thought they are BSF. > >Rich Chrysler > -- John Harper From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Oct 3 13:25:02 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 15:25:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <20111003152502.LFY5W.244338.root@pamxwww05-z01> My understanding of them is that they either work or they don't. If they "go bad", they give no warning and your car will quit--not miss. But----I love them and keep a spart set---but haven't used it in 11 years. ---- Jonas Payne wrote: ============= It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is suffering from a low RPM miss. Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any hard data. Does anybody know: If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? Is there any way to identify them? What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Tue Oct 4 06:29:38 2011 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry rowe) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 05:29:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> References: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> Message-ID: <000001cc8291$48b741a0$da25c4e0$@net.au> Hi Pieter Have you checked the reverse lockout switch on the gearlever. Whilst driving try moving the lever side to side and see if it disengages and engages. If so that switch is atfault . Mine did this, I simply disconnected it, but have to remember before reverse Trust this finds this you well over there Cheers John & Kerry Rowe Queensland -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda Sent: Monday, 3 October 2011 7:34 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid Hi Guys, I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? Thanks as always, Piet From rpschauss at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 14:11:12 2011 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 16:11:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <6CBB84B251464118A735EC9C120E9D3D@KagsLaptop> References: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> <6CBB84B251464118A735EC9C120E9D3D@KagsLaptop> Message-ID: I have had a similar problem with my MGB which uses the same isolation switch. I found that on the new ones which Moss sells the ball does not stick out far enough to hold the switch reliably in the on position even if it is mounted without the washer. You may have a similar problem. On the other hand when the overdrive on my Healey started dropping out on me, the problem turned out to be the o-ring(s) on the accumulator. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 2:05 PM, Earl Kagna wrote: > Piet: > > I've had this happen a couple of times. > > Turned out to be the gearshift lever switch on the transmission - the one > that allows the overdrive to work only in the 3 -4 position. The switch > would engage - but barely - when the transmission was cold and then either > drop out, or go in and out when everything warmed up. The test for me was > to apply momentary pressure to the shift lever (to the right I believe - it > was a long time ago). If the overdrive then shifts back in and holds, > simply adjust the switch at it's mount by re-shimming it so that it's closer > to the activation point so it closes reliably when the lever is in the 3-4 > position. > > If this turns out to be the cause, you'll probably notice a wear spot on the > ball end of the switch. You haven't stated which Healey model you are > referring to, but the situation can happen on either the side or top-shift > transmissions. > > Worked for me! From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Oct 3 14:19:45 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 13:19:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below Message-ID: <1317673185.56233.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I think at that price the car is not nice enough to drive it as is, but if you bought it with the idea of restoring it, you'd be upside down pretty quickly. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 10/3/11, Neil Anderson wrote: From: Neil Anderson Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Monday, October 3, 2011, 9:58 AM This BJ8 was on BaT this morning. Except for a couple of mods, it looks to be quite complete, and decent original condition. The third owner has had car for forty years, 53,000 miles, asking $42,450. Is it worth the price?? Grab it before Steve Tanner does. BaT link: http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/03/seller-submission-1967-mkiii-austin-heal ey-bj8/ Seller link: http://www.astonmartin-lotus.com/inventory/detail/826-austin_healey_3000_mki ii Neil Anderson BT7 AN5 project From bruce_griffin at earthlink.net Mon Oct 3 14:54:16 2011 From: bruce_griffin at earthlink.net (Bruce Griffin) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 16:54:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Don=EF=BF=BDt_shy_to_tell_me_about_your_sexua?= =?utf-8?q?l_problems=2E_As_for_me=2C_I_solve_all_of_them_here=3A?= Message-ID: <25234704.1317675256919.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net> .Forget about visiting local drugstores! Visit this on-line shop now! http://www.dataflow.fr/com.friend.php?aven_yahoo=66r5 From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 3 15:04:26 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 21:04:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <99DA89C3-D3CE-463D-B2E1-70C9FC561706@pt.lu> Message-ID: <541298320.1525988.1317675866750.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Piet, Sounds like your diagnosis is correct. I bought a new solenoid years ago from Mike Salter, who had come across a batch at a fair price. Since I have a replacement the original insists on working fine after 170K miles. It's a Lucas part; I suspect all the usual suspects will have the same thing so you can probably order based on price, convenience, etc. (just make sure the vendor has a fair return policy in case the part is wrong or defective). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: "Healey List" Sent: Monday, October 3, 2011 9:52:26 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid I did and I ran for a while with a test light connected between the solenoid wire and earth. When the O/D cuts in and out the light remains steady which to me indicates that it is not an interruption in the power supply to the solenoid itself. Piet On 03/10/2011, at 6:44 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Did you check/change the switch? All the wiring and connections to the O/D? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 3 15:11:06 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 21:11:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below In-Reply-To: <1317665291.34934.YahooMailClassic@web180602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1282917947.1526449.1317676266578.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> He'll paint this one red. -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- --- On Mon, 10/3/11, Neil Anderson wrote: Is it worth the price?? Grab it before Steve Tanner does. Why, none of his golden beige restorations were original golden beige cars. Just an observation. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 _______________________________________________ From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Oct 3 15:18:22 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 14:18:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below In-Reply-To: <1282917947.1526449.1317676266578.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1317676702.39320.YahooMailClassic@web180612.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hey, wait a minute. Aren't we talking about Curt Tanner? Mike MacLean --- On Mon, 10/3/11, Bob Spidell wrote: From: Bob Spidell Subject: Re: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below To: "Michael MacLean" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, "Neil Anderson" Date: Monday, October 3, 2011, 9:11 PM #yiv995691806 p {margin:0;}He'll paint this one red. -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA --- On Mon, 10/3/11, Neil Anderson wrote: Is it worth the price?? Grab it before Steve Tanner does. Why, none of his golden beige restorations were original golden beige cars. Just an observation. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 _______________________________________________ From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Oct 3 15:27:49 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 17:27:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below In-Reply-To: <138979470.1509457.1317660096713.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20111003172749.G4P0B.245473.root@pamxwww05-z01> Why? I see a number of "wrong" things on it that will need to be redone for originality. And-------does the fact it was GMB "really" make it thatr much more valuable than a regular BJ8? ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= At first glance, it looks like a steal. However, I'd want to see the underside (it looks like there might be rust issues on the bottom edges of the body). The paint looks original, but overall it seems to be in rattier shape than you'd expect for such a low-mileage car. I have to wonder how it was stored. FWIW, my BJ8 had 64K miles when I bought it, and overall was in better shape (I know, it's been almost 30 years since I bought my car). Did the (very) later BJ8s come with two amber parking/turn lights (per side), and red valve covers and a yellow head? Did they also come with train horns? Just curious ... Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- This BJ8 was on BaT this morning. Except for a couple of mods, it looks to be quite complete, and decent original condition. The third owner has had car for forty years, 53,000 miles, asking $42,450. Is it worth the price?? Grab it before Steve Tanner does. BaT link: http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/03/seller-submission-1967-mkiii-austin-heal ey-bj8/ Seller link: http://www.astonmartin-lotus.com/inventory/detail/826-austin_healey_3000_mki ii Neil Anderson BT7 AN5 project _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From peter.svilans at rogers.com Mon Oct 3 15:30:13 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 17:30:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts Message-ID: <398BE83381E645CF8C714BEB83613D1C@9535DEE118EC44B> < My history may be a bit sketchy, but > Not sketchy at all, Dave. Hotchkiss had always had very strong management ties with England and the US, and was a major arms supplier to the Union Army in the Civil War. The Saint Denis plant in France was producing cars, engines and machine guns. By the start of WW 1, out of fear of being overrun by the Germans, management asked their chief engineer, a British officer by the name of Ainsworth, to transfer machine gun production to a new factory in Coventry. 50,000 guns were made there, but contracts dried up after the war. Meanwhile, word got round that William Morris was looking for an engine supplier. In particular, he wanted someone to copy the Detroit-made Continental Red Seal motor which he had been using in his Bullnose Cowley. Ainsworth knocked on Morris' door and, even though his Coventry plant had never made any engines before, said he could do it. The plant was sold to Morris in 1923. The British (Hotchkiss)-built, American-designed Continental motors used French Standard metric (not International Standard metric) threads because the Coventry factory was equipped with French metric tool heads from its machine-gun days. There was no money available to change tooling either from Mr. Morris who always demanded a rock-bottom price, or from Saint Denis. Also, in order that Whitworth wrenches could be used by the British workers in the plant, the metric nuts and bolts had Whitworth heads. The whole business was called "Morris' Mad Metric". The 1925 MG Kimber Special "Old Number One" used a Hotchkiss engine. Best Peter From ggilliam at usol.com Mon Oct 3 16:15:41 2011 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2011 22:15:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] battery draining or not holding charge In-Reply-To: <8CE4FE85ECED69E-25E8-60B2D@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com> References: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> <8CE4FE85ECED69E-25E8-60B2D@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8fd11485c2b90695bc438811c172fc29@usol.com> Could be a intermittently loose electrical connection at the generator, regulator box or battery, or engine ground strap, or lack of a good ground for the generator through the mounting bolts. On 10/03/2011 1:34 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > If the battery is new, then it is not the battery's fault. Besides > the > regulator &/or the generator being prime suspects you might also > check the > connections at the battery, the disconnect switch including the > correct > functioning of the switch & white/black grounding wire, the engine > ground > strap. Did you reverse the polarity so that you could use a GPS & > make other > modifications which might be contributing the the charging problems. > Gary > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Randey Brophy > To: healeys > Sent: Sun, Oct 2, 2011 11:56 pm > Subject: [Healeys] battery draining or not holding charge > > > I have a 1965 fully restored BJ8 I replaced the battery recently > and > fter 3 weeks of running fine the new battery is now not holding a > charge. > have nothing in the car that would drain the battery-no radio etc- > except > or a Viper GPS, which everyone tells me shouldn't tax the battery. > The > iper periodically reports battery low while I'm traveling in the car > and > oday the car wouldn't start after a fill up and needed a few attempts > at a > ump start before it would turn over. Cruising back to town at 70-85 > MPH the > verdrive stopped working for a bit car automatically went our of > overdrive > nd wouldn't go back in,then the ignition light came on indicating the > attery's not charging; after awhile the ignition light went out > overdrive > orked again, but when I got home parked it and turned it off it > wouldn't > tart again..Zilch after a 50 mile drive which should have recharged > the > attery. Please advise what's going on and what to do to fix > this..thanks > > Randey Brophy > 1747 Trafalgar St > Vancouver BC From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 3 16:20:27 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 22:20:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Golden Beige BJ8 on BaT and link below In-Reply-To: <20111003172749.G4P0B.245473.root@pamxwww05-z01> Message-ID: <1358333981.1530097.1317680427525.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Note I said 'first glance.' The closer you look, the less valuable it becomes. I suspect--since it's a New England car--the underside is pretty raunchy. The value, in my eyes, is in a (mostly) unmolested original--no restorations--which this appears to be but, yes, it'll need a lot of work. $30-35K would be a better (fairer) price. re: " does the fact it was GMB "really" make it thatr much more valuable than a regular BJ8?" Based on the anecdotal evidence I've seen, yes (maybe 10-20% more). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Why? I see a number of "wrong" things on it that will need to be redone for originality. And-------does the fact it was GMB "really" make it thatr much more valuable than a regular BJ8? ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= At first glance, it looks like a steal. However, I'd want to see the underside (it looks like there might be rust issues on the bottom edges of the body). The paint looks original, but overall it seems to be in rattier shape than you'd expect for such a low-mileage car. I have to wonder how it was stored. FWIW, my BJ8 had 64K miles when I bought it, and overall was in better shape (I know, it's been almost 30 years since I bought my car). Did the (very) later BJ8s come with two amber parking/turn lights (per side), and red valve covers and a yellow head? Did they also come with train horns? Just curious ... Bob From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 19:02:43 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 09:02:43 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: Jonas - Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil to go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of ballast in the coil. If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work fine. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx Regards, Alan On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly > enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is > suffering from a low RPM miss. > > Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a > lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any > hard data. > > Does anybody know: > > If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? > Is there any way to identify them? > What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 19:25:10 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 18:25:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] battery draining or not holding charge In-Reply-To: <8CE4FE85ECED69E-25E8-60B2D@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com> References: <000001cc817e$d7472c50$85d584f0$@net> <8CE4FE85ECED69E-25E8-60B2D@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Boy I wish I was as confidant as you are about the battery's condition. The very first step in every fault tracing guide for starting/charging is to verify the condition and state of charge of the battery. Without a known good battery fault tracing starting/charging issues is a waste of time. I don't care if you bought it yesterday make sure it's good FIRST. And yes I have brought home a brand new bad battery. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 3, 2011, at 6:34, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > If the battery is new, then it is not the battery's fault. From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Oct 3 20:08:19 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 02:08:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?lost_parts?= Message-ID: <20111004020819.1494.qmail@server278.com> hotchkiss may have moved their factory to england prior to ww1 but i am betting it was not because they feared bombing. cannot think of even one bomber that was built prior to ww1 in any number. hjim From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Oct 3 20:08:27 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 02:08:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?lost_parts?= Message-ID: <20111004020827.1620.qmail@server278.com> hotchkiss may have moved their factory to england prior to ww1 but i am betting it was not because they feared bombing. cannot think of even one bomber that was built prior to ww1 in any number. hjim From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Oct 3 20:58:09 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 19:58:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1317697089.22755.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Thanks for your kind words, Greg. I know Nasty Boys aren't everyone's cuppa, but I take solace in the fact that DMH found them interesting on his trips to the States. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 10/3/11, Greg Lemon wrote: From: Greg Lemon Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update To: "HealeyRick" Date: Monday, October 3, 2011, 10:29 PM Thanks for posting the updates Rick, I don't check everytime you post, but spent some time today "catching up" I find the engineering interesting and the commentary amusing. I also like what I believe is your approach on this, I have nothing against engine swaps, and have contemplated a few myself but never took the plunge, but I don't like the ones that end up looking like kit cars with a hodge podge of switches and guages replacing the original, in fact that is what scared me off, not shoehorning the motor in, but getting all the guages, electrics etc. functioning and looking reasonably well thought out. looks like you are doing a good job, I probably wouldn't have the patience to do it right Regards, Greg Lemon ----- Original Message ----- From: "HealeyRick" To: ; ; Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 7:02 AM Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update > Nothing dramatic, just slow progress. Check out my link to the British V8 > site below to see some low buck Lizard Skin, cheap big box insulation and try > to figure out how I spent six hours fitting the shift boot. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 3 21:28:58 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2011 20:28:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <4E8A7D7A.9010606@comcast.net> re: "... If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil to go with the Pertronix. " Soooooo ... the 4-cyl coils are different than the 6-cyl? I've run Pertronix with a stock (6-cyl) coil for years. Bob On 10/3/2011 6:02 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Jonas - > > Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a > ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil to > go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If > not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a > high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. > For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling > people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of > ballast in the coil. > > If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work fine. > > http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx > > Regards, > > Alan > > > > On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > >> It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly >> enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is >> suffering from a low RPM miss. >> >> Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a >> lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any >> hard data. >> >> Does anybody know: >> >> If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? >> Is there any way to identify them? >> What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? >> >> >> Jonas Payne >> PBR >> Cell: (702) 358-5084 >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 3 22:25:13 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 12:25:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: <4E8A7D7A.9010606@comcast.net> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <4E8A7D7A.9010606@comcast.net> Message-ID: They say if you have a V8 or V12, there's no need for ballast. 6cyl racer doesn't need it, but 6cyl street car should. 4cyl definitely. Something about an fully charged coil over heating the module. You're probably fine with the 6cyl but might have problems at idle on very hot days. On 10/4/11, Bob Spidell wrote: > re: "... If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil to go with > the Pertronix. " > > Soooooo ... the 4-cyl coils are different than the 6-cyl? > > I've run Pertronix with a stock (6-cyl) coil for years. > > Bob > > > On 10/3/2011 6:02 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: >> Jonas - >> >> Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a >> ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil >> to >> go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If >> not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a >> high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. >> For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling >> people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of >> ballast in the coil. >> >> If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work >> fine. >> >> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx >> >> Regards, >> >> Alan >> >> >> >> On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: >> >>> It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly >>> enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is >>> suffering from a low RPM miss. >>> >>> Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a >>> lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any >>> hard data. >>> >>> Does anybody know: >>> >>> If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? >>> Is there any way to identify them? >>> What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? >>> >>> >>> Jonas Payne >>> PBR >>> Cell: (702) 358-5084 >>> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > > -- Sent from my mobile device From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Oct 4 02:00:35 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 10:00:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <4E8ABD23.6060905@chello.nl> Alan, In the instructions I got with my Pertronix years ago it was clearly stated that the (total) resistance of the coil (or coil plus ballast resistor) should be at least 3 Ohms. If lower, damage to the ignition may occur. This is not something unique to Pertronix, same story with Luminition Optronic/Magtronic and others. I have seen many burned out systems because people (including professionals who should know better) fitted the electronic ignition straight to the coil without checking the resistance or bypassing the ballast resistor (both generally about 1,5 Ohms) and/or forgetting to disconnect the resistor bypass from the starter motor!!!. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 4-10-2011 3:02, Alan Seigrist schreef: > Jonas - > > Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a > ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil to > go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If > not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a > high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. > For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling > people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of > ballast in the coil. > > If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work fine. > > http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx > > Regards, > > Alan > > > > On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > >> It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly >> enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is >> suffering from a low RPM miss. >> >> Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a >> lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any >> hard data. >> >> Does anybody know: >> >> If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? >> Is there any way to identify them? >> What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? >> >> >> Jonas Payne >> PBR >> Cell: (702) 358-5084 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1809 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4535 - datum van uitgifte: 10/03/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Oct 4 02:02:24 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 10:02:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <20111004020819.1494.qmail@server278.com> References: <20111004020819.1494.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4E8ABD90.9040503@chello.nl> You do not need an aeroplane to bomb a place. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 4-10-2011 4:08, healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef: > hotchkiss may have moved their factory to england prior to ww1 but i am betting it was not because they feared bombing. cannot think of even one bomber that was built prior to ww1 in any number. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1809 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4535 - datum van uitgifte: 10/03/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Oct 4 02:07:22 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 10:07:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <398BE83381E645CF8C714BEB83613D1C@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <398BE83381E645CF8C714BEB83613D1C@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <4E8ABEBA.9090105@chello.nl> What is the difference between International or French metric, other than that the French ( and the Japs) use some odd sized threads like M5, M7, M9 etc. ? Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-10-2011 23:30, Peter Svilans schreef: > < My history may be a bit sketchy, but> > > Not sketchy at all, Dave. > > Hotchkiss had always had very strong management ties with England and the US, > and was a major arms supplier to the Union Army in the Civil War. The Saint > Denis plant in France was producing cars, engines and machine guns. > > By the start of WW 1, out of fear of being overrun by the Germans, management > asked their chief engineer, a British officer by the name of Ainsworth, to > transfer machine gun production to a new factory in Coventry. 50,000 guns > were made there, but contracts dried up after the war. > > Meanwhile, word got round that William Morris was looking for an engine > supplier. In particular, he wanted someone to copy the Detroit-made > Continental Red Seal motor which he had been using in his Bullnose Cowley. > Ainsworth knocked on Morris' door and, even though his Coventry plant had > never made any engines before, said he could do it. The plant was sold to > Morris in 1923. > > The British (Hotchkiss)-built, American-designed Continental motors used > French Standard metric (not International Standard metric) threads because the > Coventry factory was equipped with French metric tool heads from its > machine-gun days. There was no money available to change tooling either from > Mr. Morris who always demanded a rock-bottom price, or from Saint Denis. > Also, in order that Whitworth wrenches could be used by the British workers in > the plant, the metric nuts and bolts had Whitworth heads. The whole business > was called "Morris' Mad Metric". > > The 1925 MG Kimber Special "Old Number One" used a Hotchkiss engine. > > Best > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1809 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4535 - datum van uitgifte: 10/03/11 From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Oct 4 03:44:10 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 20:44:10 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update In-Reply-To: <1317697089.22755.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1317697089.22755.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7A6EEAF2-4141-4E13-9303-54101907979B@gmail.com> "DMH found them interesting on his trips to the States" Geez Rick. DMH was even interested when he was at home!!! Wasn't it DMH who had a 327 Chev stuffed into his Jensen 541 in lieu of the standard 4 litre Austin 6 for his personal tansport between the Midands and Cornwall??? ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 04/10/2011, at 1:58 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Thanks for your kind words, Greg. I know Nasty Boys aren't > everyone's cuppa, > but I take solace in the fact that DMH found them interesting on his > trips to > the States. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Mon, 10/3/11, Greg Lemon wrote: > > From: Greg Lemon > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update > To: "HealeyRick" > Date: Monday, October 3, 2011, 10:29 PM > > Thanks for posting the updates Rick, I don't check everytime you > post, but > spent some time today "catching up" I find the engineering > interesting and the > commentary amusing. > > I also like what I believe is your approach on this, I have nothing > against > engine swaps, and have contemplated a few myself but never took the > plunge From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Oct 4 04:20:46 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard Hartnett) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 06:20:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] x Message-ID: <643630.1317723646622.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> .. http://files-host.99k.org/agzvxwtmq9.html?ggmailID=06ucx From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Oct 4 04:46:08 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 06:46:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <20111004020827.1620.qmail@server278.com> References: <20111004020827.1620.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <000001cc8282$d359f870$7a0de950$@net> Shelling in the 1st War would be the greater threat. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sent: 2011-10-03 10:08 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] lost parts hotchkiss may have moved their factory to england prior to ww1 but i am betting it was not because they feared bombing. cannot think of even one bomber that was built prior to ww1 in any number. hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From theswed at hotmail.com Tue Oct 4 05:18:05 2011 From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 04:18:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: References: , <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>, Message-ID: Wish I had that info before I changed out my Pertronix and put in the original points. I was using a Lucus sports coil. Kenny61 BT7 > Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 09:02:43 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: JPayne at thorcon.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor > > Jonas - > > Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a > ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil to > go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If > not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a > high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. > For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling > people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of > ballast in the coil. > > If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work fine. > > http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx > > Regards, > > Alan > > > > On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > > It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly > > enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is > > suffering from a low RPM miss. > > > > Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a > > lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any > > hard data. > > > > Does anybody know: > > > > If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? > > Is there any way to identify them? > > What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? > > > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR > > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/theswed at hotmail.com From peter.svilans at rogers.com Tue Oct 4 05:22:53 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 07:22:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts Message-ID: <098B87321C614454BC4B78FAE941D75F@9535DEE118EC44B> The obsolete French Standard metric was in use before the ISO metric. Here is a site with about four dozen thread types. http://www.gewinde-normen.de/en/index.html The AustinHealey Experience website also has a chart of thread sizes: http://www.healeyexperience.com/article/thread-reference.html Where did the word "bombing" come into the picture ? I used the word "overrun", which to me is a bunch of people swarming across a field carrying guns. We see what we want to see, I guess. Peter From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Oct 4 06:38:50 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 05:38:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <4E8A7D7A.9010606@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E8AFE5A.7090504@comcast.net> Ah ... fewer cylinders==longer dwell==hotter module? Offhand, I don't know the dwell angle for a 4-cyl--anyone know?--think it's about 35deg for a 6-cyl. The Pertronix coil comes in 1.5 and 3.0 ohm versions; I think a stock Healey coil is about 1.5 ohms (not sure). You're right, their website should make it clear which impedance coil should be used with which engines--with a Pertronix--if it's significant. From the website: '... it's the perfect coil to go with the PerTronix Ignitor breakerless ignition ...' and '... coil can benefit virtually any distributor type inductive system ...' I see the Pertronix II has 'adjustable dwell' and senses coil impedance; too bad it doesn't come in a pos-ground version. I'm still not convinced there's a problem; unless the dwell for a 4-cyl is significantly longer than a 6-cyl. If their 1.5ohm coil won't work well with a Pertronix without ballast they should make that clear. My BJ8 doesn't have any ignition problems with heat, but I've only run it to 115degF in Death Valley (they're supposedly good to 300deg). Bob On 10/3/2011 9:25 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > They say if you have a V8 or V12, there's no need for ballast. 6cyl > racer doesn't need it, but 6cyl street car should. 4cyl definitely. > Something about an fully charged coil over heating the module. You're > probably fine with the 6cyl but might have problems at idle on very > hot days. > > > > On 10/4/11, Bob Spidell wrote: >> re: "... If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil to go with >> the Pertronix. " >> >> Soooooo ... the 4-cyl coils are different than the 6-cyl? >> >> I've run Pertronix with a stock (6-cyl) coil for years. >> >> Bob >> >> >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From sebring at hotkey.net.au Tue Oct 4 06:55:31 2011 From: sebring at hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 23:55:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <398BE83381E645CF8C714BEB83613D1C@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <398BE83381E645CF8C714BEB83613D1C@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <4E8B0243.8070900@hotkey.net.au> PETER YOUR KNOWLEDGE OF HISTORY NEVER CEASES TO AMAZE Am I to then assume that some of the people and/or companies you have mentioned invented the adjustable wrench due to the crazy mix of threads,diameters and head sizes!!!!!!!!!! Also when did Mr. Wolsley ,who was in Australia building sheep shearing equipment, get involved in all this? Peter Svilans wrote: >< My history may be a bit sketchy, but > > >Not sketchy at all, Dave. > >Hotchkiss had always had very strong management ties with England and the US, >and was a major arms supplier to the Union Army in the Civil War. The Saint >Denis plant in France was producing cars, engines and machine guns. > >By the start of WW 1, out of fear of being overrun by the Germans, management >asked their chief engineer, a British officer by the name of Ainsworth, to >transfer machine gun production to a new factory in Coventry. 50,000 guns >were made there, but contracts dried up after the war. > >Meanwhile, word got round that William Morris was looking for an engine >supplier. In particular, he wanted someone to copy the Detroit-made >Continental Red Seal motor which he had been using in his Bullnose Cowley. >Ainsworth knocked on Morris' door and, even though his Coventry plant had >never made any engines before, said he could do it. The plant was sold to >Morris in 1923. > >The British (Hotchkiss)-built, American-designed Continental motors used >French Standard metric (not International Standard metric) threads because the >Coventry factory was equipped with French metric tool heads from its >machine-gun days. There was no money available to change tooling either from >Mr. Morris who always demanded a rock-bottom price, or from Saint Denis. >Also, in order that Whitworth wrenches could be used by the British workers in >the plant, the metric nuts and bolts had Whitworth heads. The whole business >was called "Morris' Mad Metric". > >The 1925 MG Kimber Special "Old Number One" used a Hotchkiss engine. > >Best >Peter >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring at hotkey.net.au From shop at justbrits.com Tue Oct 4 07:59:25 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 08:59:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <000001cc8282$d359f870$7a0de950$@net> References: <20111004020827.1620.qmail@server278.com> <000001cc8282$d359f870$7a0de950$@net> Message-ID: <4E8B113D.5060302@justbrits.com> << Shelling in the... >> That would be a tourist 'hobby' when visiting the sea shore, Rich ?!? Tnx ! ! Anon PS: I wonder if it's a 'tourist hobby' down under ?? From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Oct 4 08:03:00 2011 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 15:03:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: References: , <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>, Message-ID: <000c01cc829e$5408faa0$fc1aefe0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Anyone know how much of the ballast resistor stuff is relevant/necessary to a 123 Ignition system. I have one of these fitted to my Mk II BT7 along with a Lucas "Sports" coil. (Is it called a "Sports"? It's green and purports be higher performance etcetc..) Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kenny J Sent: 04 October 2011 12:18 To: healey.nut at gmail.com; jpayne at thorcon.net Cc: Healeys Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor Wish I had that info before I changed out my Pertronix and put in the original points. I was using a Lucus sports coil. Kenny61 BT7 > Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 09:02:43 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: JPayne at thorcon.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor > > Jonas - > > Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a > ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil to > go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If > not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a > high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. > For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling > people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of > ballast in the coil. > > If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work fine. > > http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx > > Regards, > > Alan > > > > On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > > It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly > > enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is > > suffering from a low RPM miss. > > > > Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a > > lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any > > hard data. > > > > Does anybody know: > > > > If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? > > Is there any way to identify them? > > What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? > > > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR > > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/theswed at hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Oct 4 08:14:36 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 22:14:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: <4e8b1216.c8cae30a.16e0.514aSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <4e8b1216.c8cae30a.16e0.514aSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> Message-ID: I think the 123 is fine either way. On 10/4/11, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Anyone know how much of the ballast resistor stuff is relevant/necessary to > a 123 Ignition system. I have one of these fitted to my Mk II BT7 along with > a Lucas "Sports" coil. (Is it called a "Sports"? It's green and purports be > higher performance etcetc..) > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Kenny J > Sent: 04 October 2011 12:18 > To: healey.nut at gmail.com; jpayne at thorcon.net > Cc: Healeys Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor > > Wish I had that info before I changed out my Pertronix and put in the > original > points. I was using a Lucus sports coil. Kenny61 BT7 > > Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 09:02:43 +0800 >> From: healey.nut at gmail.com >> To: JPayne at thorcon.net >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor >> >> Jonas - >> >> Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a >> ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil > to >> go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If >> not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a >> high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. >> For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling >> people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of >> ballast in the coil. >> >> If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work > fine. >> >> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx >> >> Regards, >> >> Alan >> >> >> >> On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: >> >> > It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly >> > enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is >> > suffering from a low RPM miss. >> > >> > Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a >> > lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any >> > hard data. >> > >> > Does anybody know: >> > >> > If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? >> > Is there any way to identify them? >> > What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? >> > >> > >> > Jonas Payne >> > PBR >> > Cell: (702) 358-5084 >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/theswed at hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > > -- Sent from my mobile device From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Oct 4 08:26:29 2011 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 15:26:29 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <000001cc8282$d359f870$7a0de950$@net> References: <20111004020827.1620.qmail@server278.com> <000001cc8282$d359f870$7a0de950$@net> Message-ID: <000d01cc82a1$9c787fb0$d5697f10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Actually I imagine that the fear was of being overrun by the German army. Before the stagnation of the trenches, all three major participants expected a mobile war. ie the French and the Germans deployed and used cavalry in early '14, particularly the latter. (Cavalry is more use to the army which is advancing and chasing). I suspect that the Germans expected to force the French to surrender after a series of defeats, as in the Franco-Prussian War. (They had to knock the Western Powers out pbq in order to deal with the Russian Hordes). I further suspect that the British thought that they might not get enough troops over the Channel in time to prevent this collapse and I also suspect that a lot of the French High Command and politicians thought the same. In fact, the French did stop them, more or less on their own as the first small (Regular) British army was initially all but destroyed, even though it stopped the Germans also, but on a much smaller sector of the front. Do forgive the lecture and you're right if you suspect that I may know more about WW1 than about Healeys, though I'm happy to learn more about both. All flames to me personally please! Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler Sent: 04 October 2011 11:46 To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] lost parts Shelling in the 1st War would be the greater threat. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sent: 2011-10-03 10:08 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] lost parts hotchkiss may have moved their factory to england prior to ww1 but i am betting it was not because they feared bombing. cannot think of even one bomber that was built prior to ww1 in any number. hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Oct 4 08:49:04 2011 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 15:49:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor Message-ID: <000e01cc82a4$c3689440$4a39bcc0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Anyone know how much of the ballast resistor stuff is relevant/necessary to a 123 Ignition system. I have one of these fitted to my Mk II BT7 along with a Lucas "Sports" coil. (Is it called a "Sports"? It's green and purports be higher performance etcetc..) Simon From shop at justbrits.com Tue Oct 4 09:31:08 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 10:31:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts In-Reply-To: <4E8B0243.8070900@hotkey.net.au> References: <398BE83381E645CF8C714BEB83613D1C@9535DEE118EC44B> <4E8B0243.8070900@hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <4E8B26BC.4080202@justbrits.com> Joe, Joe, Joe.................. << Also when did Mr. Wolsley ,who was in Australia building sheep shearing equipment, get involved in all this? >> YOU of all people should KNOW the answer to that ! ! ! The [only one (1) - in that era] day the world turned UPSIDE- DOWN ! ! ! ! After all, we all know that Patrick Q. & the BN-3 got 'down there' on one of those "reverse" days ! ! ! Anon From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Oct 4 09:40:44 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 17:40:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: <000c01cc829e$5408faa0$fc1aefe0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: , <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>, <000c01cc829e$5408faa0$fc1aefe0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <4E8B28FC.3060005@chello.nl> Look on their website if you can find something. In the mean time assume a minimum of 3 Ohms is needed over the coil or coil plus resistor. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 4-10-2011 16:03, Simon Lachlan schreef: > Anyone know how much of the ballast resistor stuff is relevant/necessary to > a 123 Ignition system. I have one of these fitted to my Mk II BT7 along with > a Lucas "Sports" coil. (Is it called a "Sports"? It's green and purports be > higher performance etcetc..) > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Kenny J > Sent: 04 October 2011 12:18 > To: healey.nut at gmail.com; jpayne at thorcon.net > Cc: Healeys Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor > > Wish I had that info before I changed out my Pertronix and put in the > original > points. I was using a Lucus sports coil. Kenny61 BT7 > > Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 09:02:43 +0800 >> From: healey.nut at gmail.com >> To: JPayne at thorcon.net >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor >> >> Jonas - >> >> Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a >> ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil > to >> go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If >> not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a >> high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. >> For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling >> people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of >> ballast in the coil. >> >> If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work > fine. >> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx >> >> Regards, >> >> Alan >> >> >> >> On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: >> >>> It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly >>> enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is >>> suffering from a low RPM miss. >>> >>> Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a >>> lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any >>> hard data. >>> >>> Does anybody know: >>> >>> If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? >>> Is there any way to identify them? >>> What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? >>> >>> >>> Jonas Payne >>> PBR >>> Cell: (702) 358-5084 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/theswed at hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1809 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4536 - datum van uitgifte: 10/03/11 From peter.svilans at rogers.com Tue Oct 4 09:41:08 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 11:41:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] lost parts Message-ID: <053C1392D21F4E89BFB863949C53CFED@9535DEE118EC44B> Apologies for the "bombing" thing. When first read, it went into short term memory and poof, gone. The big saloon recipients of the C-Series engine beginning in 1954- the Morris Isis, Austin Westminster A-90/ 95/ 105, Wolseley 6/99 and Riley 2.9- all had crank handles, with holes in the bumper or grille. (The motors sat higher in the car.) The nut is actually called a "starting nut" in the parts lists, even the Healey one. Best Peter From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Oct 4 11:15:50 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 17:15:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: <000e01cc82a4$c3689440$4a39bcc0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <1608119767.16905.1317748550680.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I called PerTronix this morning and talked to a tech. Alan has it right; a 6-cyl engine can use a 1.5 or 3.0 ohm coil, a 4-cyl needs 3.0ohm impedance (either from the coil, ballast resistor, resistor wire, etc.). I haven't checked my BJ8's coil in years, but IIRC it was around 1-2 ohms. According to the tech (Carl) some early Ignitor units didn't have enough internal resistance and could fail with a low (1.5ohm) impedance coil. 'Later' units worked on a low-impedance coil, for 6- or 8-cylinders. So, if you want to run an Ignitor on a 100 best get a 3.0ohm coil (or some combination of coil, resistor, wire, etc. that will produce 3ohms impedance). He also told me Lucas Sports Coils are 3.0ohm, which should make them usable with other electronic points systems (although I've heard of other issues with LSCs). I lobbied for them to build a pos-ground version of the Ignitor II, which has automatic dwell adjustment and more flexibility with coils. He said they hadn't even thought of it; but that he'd check with 'the engineers' and get back to me. I don't think this will happen since the II has some internal logic that probably has to run on neg-ground. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Lachlan" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, October 4, 2011 7:49:04 AM Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor Anyone know how much of the ballast resistor stuff is relevant/necessary to a 123 Ignition system. I have one of these fitted to my Mk II BT7 along with a Lucas "Sports" coil. (Is it called a "Sports"? It's green and purports be higher performance etcetc..) Simon From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Oct 4 12:12:02 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 20:12:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor In-Reply-To: References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18B75@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <4e8b1216.c8cae30a.16e0.514aSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4E8B4C72.3060402@chello.nl> The resistance over the coil or coil and ballast resistor should NOT be less than 1 Ohm. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 4-10-2011 16:14, Alan Seigrist schreef: > I think the 123 is fine either way. > > On 10/4/11, Simon Lachlan wrote: >> Anyone know how much of the ballast resistor stuff is relevant/necessary to >> a 123 Ignition system. I have one of these fitted to my Mk II BT7 along with >> a Lucas "Sports" coil. (Is it called a "Sports"? It's green and purports be >> higher performance etcetc..) >> Simon >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Kenny J >> Sent: 04 October 2011 12:18 >> To: healey.nut at gmail.com; jpayne at thorcon.net >> Cc: Healeys Healeys >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor >> >> Wish I had that info before I changed out my Pertronix and put in the >> original >> points. I was using a Lucus sports coil. Kenny61 BT7 >> > Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 09:02:43 +0800 >>> From: healey.nut at gmail.com >>> To: JPayne at thorcon.net >>> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor >>> >>> Jonas - >>> >>> Probably most of the people getting the low speed miss are not using a >>> ballasted coil. If you have a 4 cyl motor, you have to get a 3 ohm coil >> to >>> go with the Pertronix. Simply swapping out the points is not enough. If >>> not, the EI unit will overheat at idle and start misfiring. If you have a >>> high energy coil like a Lucas Sports coil, the problem will only be worse. >>> For whatever reason, Pertronix does not do a very good job of telling >>> people that if they buy the original Ignitor module, they need 3 ohms of >>> ballast in the coil. >>> >>> If you buy an Ignitor II module, then a low resistance coil will work >> fine. >>> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx >>> >>> Regards, >>> >>> Alan >>> >>> >>> >>> On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 12:56 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: >>> >>>> It would appear that my Petronix Ignitor isn't working so hot. Oddly >>>> enough, a good friend who just installed on in his Lotus Esprit is >>>> suffering from a low RPM miss. >>>> >>>> Looking on the Morgan, Jag, Triumph and Healey Lists, there has been a >>>> lot of discussion about a "bad run" of these things, but I don't see any >>>> hard data. >>>> >>>> Does anybody know: >>>> >>>> If in fact the "bad run" has been acknowledged by Petronix? >>>> Is there any way to identify them? >>>> What is (are) the specific performance issue(s)? >>>> >>>> >>>> Jonas Payne >>>> PBR >>>> Cell: (702) 358-5084 >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/theswed at hotmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From phoenix722 at comcast.net Tue Oct 4 13:21:52 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 12:21:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bolts Message-ID: <71E3BB8C72AD4F8396526279FDC97369@Mike> First of all, thanks for the huge response to my question. Varied answers, but my worry was that they were some kind of odd thread that I would have trouble finding. Turns out they are 5/16 UNF, as most of you described, but the length was quite short. They screw into threaded holes in a box beam. The forward hole then is open to the inside of the box, but the aft hole only goes in about 3/8" (bllind). Maybe there is a broken bolt in there. I ended up using 2-1/4" long bolts, which is shorter than I would like, but they aren't holding a lot weight; biggest load is probably vibration. Anyway, it is installed. Of course, after I bolted it on, I had to take the bolts out, to allow some freedom of movement to get the hydraulic lines attached. Those threads have to be just right. So next step is to connect the rod from the brake pedal, and of course, I couldn't find the clevis pin, so had to buy one at the hardward store. But I am making progress--now need to refill and bleed, which is always a fun job. Thanks for your help. Mike From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 4 15:47:20 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 14:47:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> I have a MKII 3000 with a 10" clutch and carbon release bearing. I understand that the later clutches are 9-1/2. I am wondering if it is worthwhile to switch to a 9-1/2" diaphragm (many fingers) clutch in order to use the Denis Welch ball style release bearing. I believe I need to change to a later style flywheel too although I have been told that it just needs to be changed to a three dowel arrangement instead of the two dowel. Is this true? I am just building a nice driver. Thank you, John From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Oct 4 16:47:03 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 15:47:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch Message-ID: I just replaced the brake switch on my BJ8 and I wanted to be sure no sealant was supposed to be used. I found none on the old part and did not want to contaminate the brake fluid. Am I correct? Thanks Rich Kahn From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Oct 4 18:43:40 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 17:43:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E8BA83C.3020907@comcast.net> John, Don't think I'd change the clutch just to use a different throwout bearing--the carbon type last a long time if you don't ride the clutch and the ball-bearing type can have problems, too--but the diaphragm clutches require less pedal effort and may be smoother. Bob On 10/4/2011 2:47 PM, john spaur wrote: > I have a MKII 3000 with a 10" clutch and carbon release bearing. > > I understand that the later clutches are 9-1/2. > > I am wondering if it is worthwhile to switch to a 9-1/2" diaphragm (many fingers) clutch in order to use the Denis > Welch ball style release bearing. > > I believe I need to change to a later style flywheel too although I have been told that it just needs to be changed to > a three dowel arrangement instead of the two dowel. Is this true? > > I am just building a nice driver. > > Thank you, > John > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Oct 4 20:25:48 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 10:25:48 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rich - Never use any sort of sealant on your brake system anywhere. The fittings are compression fittings and they always seal by design, unless the fitting is damaged. If you have to use sealant/teflon tape, then you need to replace our fittings because it's not safe. Best, Alan On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I just replaced the brake switch on my BJ8 and I wanted to be sure no > sealant > was supposed to be used. I found none on the old part and did not want to > contaminate the brake fluid. Am I correct? > Thanks > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Tue Oct 4 20:40:20 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 19:40:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003701cc8308$200ea730$602bf590$@ca> Don't know about the clutch question but, I installed the Denis Welch ball throw-out and it's great......easier, less vibration, quieter....great. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 2:47 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion I have a MKII 3000 with a 10" clutch and carbon release bearing. I understand that the later clutches are 9-1/2. I am wondering if it is worthwhile to switch to a 9-1/2" diaphragm (many fingers) clutch in order to use the Denis Welch ball style release bearing. I believe I need to change to a later style flywheel too although I have been told that it just needs to be changed to a three dowel arrangement instead of the two dowel. Is this true? I am just building a nice driver. Thank you, John _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From ynotink at msn.com Tue Oct 4 22:11:46 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 04:11:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid In-Reply-To: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> References: <36D696C0-E359-46A6-A53F-39568112846F@pt.lu> Message-ID: Piet, You can check the condition of the overdrive solenoid by testing continuity and resistance. No continuity in one circuit or another of course indicates the solenoid is bad. The resistance should by quite low (2-3 ohms) across the pull in circuit and increase to a much higher value (approximately 20 ohms) when the hold in circuit is activated. Just push the armature into the solenoid bore. Bill Lawrence > From: pieters at pt.lu > Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 16:33:43 +0200 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive solenoid > > Hi Guys, > I have a perplexing problem with my overdrive. It is in good condition with > upgraded clutch, accumulator etc. It engages quickly but after a few minutes > of driving it starts to jump in and out of overdrive. I don't have a throttle > switch fitted. My only suspect it the solenoid. Since there are 2 windings, > one to engage the overdrive and one to keep it engaged, could it be that the > internal switch or winding fault is causing it to "drop out" and then the > stronger winding immediately re-engages the overdrive? Opinions? > > 2nd question is the replacement solenoid. There seems to be a wide variety of > prices for this part from all the usual suppliers. Are solenoids all the same? > Can anybody recommend which to buy or which to avoid? > > Thanks as always, > Piet > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Oct 4 23:04:36 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 22:04:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Thanks all for the conformation. Rich Kahn Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 10:25:48 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch From: healey.nut at gmail.com To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com CC: healeys at autox.team.net Rich - Never use any sort of sealant on your brake system anywhere. The fittings are compression fittings and they always seal by design, unless the fitting is damaged. If you have to use sealant/teflon tape, then you need to replace our fittings because it's not safe. Best, Alan On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: I just replaced the brake switch on my BJ8 and I wanted to be sure no sealant was supposed to be used. I found none on the old part and did not want to contaminate the brake fluid. Am I correct? Thanks Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 4 23:20:12 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2011 22:20:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion In-Reply-To: <4E8BA83C.3020907@comcast.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E8BA83C.3020907@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004215104.0202c7c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> I can be pretty hard on clutches due to my shifting habits; generally 75-80K miles. However, the Mitsubishi clutch had 150,000 miles on it before replacement. John At 05:43 PM 10/4/2011 -0700, Bob Spidell wrote: >John, >Don't think I'd change the clutch just to use a different throwout >bearing--the carbon type last a long time if you don't ride the >clutch and the ball-bearing type can have problems, too--but the >diaphragm clutches require less pedal effort and may be smoother. >Bob From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Oct 5 01:11:34 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 09:11:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004215104.0202c7c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E8BA83C.3020907@comcast.net> <6.2.3.4.2.20111004215104.0202c7c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E8C0326.6020100@chello.nl> Op 5-10-2011 7:20, john spaur schreef: > However, the Mitsubishi clutch had 150,000 miles on it before > replacement. > John Jeah, But that is Japanese!! Kees Oudesluijs From twillig at ruda.de Wed Oct 5 01:29:01 2011 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 09:29:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 696 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1645@dw01.ruda.local> Simon, 123 specifies that the coil should not have a resistance under 1 Ohm. They recommend a resistance of 3 Ohms for a four cylinder engine up to 6000 rpm and 1,5 Ohm for all six cylinder engines and four cylinders that rev up to 6500 rpm. Regards Thomas Willig From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Oct 5 01:36:05 2011 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 5 Oct 2011 09:36:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Petronix_Ignitor?= Message-ID: Simon, very relevant/necessary! Do not use any 123 system with a coil with a resistance lower than 1 ohm, unless it's a 8 cyl 123 system. This would destroy the electronics. Sorry, don't know the resistance of the green Lucas "Sports" coil, but if you have used it for some time with the 123, it should be ok. Kind regards Brits 'n' Pieces Eric Frenken 123ignition dealership Powerlite dealership bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb Von Simon Lachlan [simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk] An Kenny J[theswed at hotmail.com]; [healey.nut at gmail.com]; [jpayne at thorcon.net] CC Healeys Healeys[healeys at autox.team.net] Datum 04.10.2011 17:34:56 Betreff Re: [Healeys] Petronix Ignitor bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb Anyone know how much of the ballast resistor stuff is relevant/necessary to a 123 Ignition system. I have one of these fitted to my Mk II BT7 along with a Lucas "Sports" coil. (Is it called a "Sports"? It's green and purports be higher performance etcetc..) Simon From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Wed Oct 5 03:46:51 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard Hartnett) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 05:46:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] a Message-ID: <32214781.1317808011746.JavaMail.root@wamui-bucket.atl.sa.earthlink.net> . http://www.gofrench.com/dfijleoiw.html?btopicid=47r6 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Oct 5 05:30:42 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 07:30:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cc8352$373970d0$a5ac5270$@rr.com> I always use Teflon tape on threaded fittings, in the brake system and elsewhere, if not to prevent leaks then to prevent the fittings from seizing the next time I want to take them apart. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 10:26 PM To: Richard Kahn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Rich - Never use any sort of sealant on your brake system anywhere. The fittings are compression fittings and they always seal by design, unless the fitting is damaged. If you have to use sealant/teflon tape, then you need to replace our fittings because it's not safe. Best, Alan From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 5 06:16:24 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 05:16:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004215104.0202c7c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E8BA83C.3020907@comcast.net> <6.2.3.4.2.20111004215104.0202c7c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E8C4A98.6030605@comcast.net> Do you wear everything out, or just the throwout bearing? Bob On 10/4/2011 10:20 PM, john spaur wrote: > I can be pretty hard on clutches due to my shifting habits; generally 75-80K miles. However, the Mitsubishi clutch had > 150,000 miles on it before replacement. > John > > At 05:43 PM 10/4/2011 -0700, Bob Spidell wrote: >> John, >> Don't think I'd change the clutch just to use a different throwout bearing--the carbon type last a long time if you >> don't ride the clutch and the ball-bearing type can have problems, too--but the diaphragm clutches require less pedal >> effort and may be smoother. >> Bob > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Oct 5 06:44:53 2011 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 13:44:53 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 123 Ignition & ballast resistor Message-ID: <000b01cc835c$9463cc60$bd2b6520$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Thanks for all the kind advice. It seems that I'm OK as I am, ie without a ballast resistor. Simon From pyoas at yahoo.com Wed Oct 5 06:53:06 2011 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 05:53:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 696 Message-ID: <1317819186.24982.YahooMailClassic@web112513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> How do you measure the ohms? Where do you connect the meter test leads to? Patrick Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 09:29:01 +0200 From: "Thomas Willig" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 696 Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1645 at dw01.ruda.local> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Simon, 123 specifies that the coil should not have a resistance under 1 Ohm. They recommend a resistance of 3 Ohms for a four cylinder engine up to 6000 rpm and 1,5 Ohm for all six cylinder engines and four cylinders that rev up to 6500 rpm. Regards Thomas Willig From warthodson at aol.com Wed Oct 5 07:32:12 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 09:32:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004215104.0202c7c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com><4E8BA83C.3020907@comcast.net> <6.2.3.4.2.20111004215104.0202c7c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CE517A528FCC96-E40-22D6D@webmail-m169.sysops.aol.com> What are those shifting habits that are so hard on clutches? I can be pretty hard on clutches due to my shifting habits; From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 09:12:03 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 11:12:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <000901cc8352$373970d0$a5ac5270$@rr.com> References: <000901cc8352$373970d0$a5ac5270$@rr.com> Message-ID: I do as well--and for many years used it on flared fittings on diesel fuel systems--for the reasons Steve says. You simply need to be careful not to have any tape hanging so that it might get into an orifice or injector nozzle and I always wrap the tape in a clockwise direction so that tightening the nut will not back the tape out or lift the end. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 7:30 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > I always use Teflon tape on threaded fittings, in the brake system and > elsewhere, if not to prevent leaks then to prevent the fittings from > seizing > the next time I want to take them apart. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 10:26 PM > To: Richard Kahn > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > > Rich - > > Never use any sort of sealant on your brake system anywhere. The fittings > are compression fittings and they always seal by design, unless the fitting > is damaged. If you have to use sealant/teflon tape, then you need to > replace our fittings because it's not safe. > > Best, > > Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 09:15:15 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 11:15:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 696 In-Reply-To: <1317819186.24982.YahooMailClassic@web112513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1317819186.24982.YahooMailClassic@web112513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Take your reading between the positive and negative coil contacts but be sure to first disconnect all wires going to the coil. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 8:53 AM, Patrick Yoas wrote: > > How do you measure the ohms? Where do you connect the meter test leads to? > Patrick > > Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 09:29:01 +0200 > From: "Thomas Willig" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 696 > Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1645 at dw01.ruda.local> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Simon, > > 123 specifies that the coil should not have a resistance under 1 Ohm. > They recommend a resistance of 3 Ohms for a four cylinder engine up to > 6000 rpm and 1,5 Ohm for all six cylinder engines and four cylinders > that rev up to 6500 rpm. > > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Oct 5 09:27:28 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 17:27:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 696 In-Reply-To: <1317819186.24982.YahooMailClassic@web112513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1317819186.24982.YahooMailClassic@web112513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E8C7760.50001@chello.nl> Just accross the two terminals. Disconnect all wires to the coil first. Kees Oudesluijs Op 5-10-2011 14:53, Patrick Yoas schreef: > > How do you measure the ohms? Where do you connect the meter test leads to? > Patrick > > Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 09:29:01 +0200 > From: "Thomas Willig" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 696 > Message-ID:<4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1645 at dw01.ruda.local> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Simon, > > 123 specifies that the coil should not have a resistance under 1 Ohm. > They recommend a resistance of 3 Ohms for a four cylinder engine up to > 6000 rpm and 1,5 Ohm for all six cylinder engines and four cylinders > that rev up to 6500 rpm. > > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1809 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4538 - datum van uitgifte: 10/04/11 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Oct 5 10:05:05 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 11:05:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] x In-Reply-To: <643630.1317723646622.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <643630.1317723646622.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4E8C8031.1000604@justbrits.com> Folks, as a bunch of us know Len Hartnett and/or earthlink.net have a "problem". I lean towards earthlink as being the culprit as I have received six (6) other chaps' "mailings" and ALL are earthlink customers. A lot of us are aware that this 'example' started with the POS aol and has also shown up with another POS "free" eMail service yahoo. Apparently from my research it can [and does] get past some of the middle-tier Anti-viral 'Suites'. Some further digging has led me to a 'free', 10-day life program FROM Microsoft themselves. As I have not had the problem myself take this "lead for a cure" with a grain of salt and PLEASE report back to us [or at least me] whether it was totally successful, partially successful or didn't help at all !?!? http://www.microsoft.com/security/scanner/en-us/default.aspx Interesting note ref above, www.tinyurl.com will NOT work for that link ?!?!? If by some odd chance the above link does not work for you, write me direct and I will send to you [also] direct. Anyway, I did run it and found one (1) tiny 'bot' in a CNET download which the MS Program DID remove ! ! ! Good luck to all and HTHs ! ! ! ! Ed '63 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey] From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 5 10:06:53 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 09:06:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch conversion In-Reply-To: <4E8C4A98.6030605@comcast.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111004144145.0202cb30@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E8BA83C.3020907@comcast.net> <6.2.3.4.2.20111004215104.0202c7c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E8C4A98.6030605@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111005090525.020cf658@pop.att.yahoo.com> On other cars the clutch disk is usually worn down to the rivets. I have not had the Healey running long enough to know. John At 05:16 AM 10/5/2011 -0700, Bob Spidell wrote: >Do you wear everything out, or just the throwout bearing? > >Bob > > >On 10/4/2011 10:20 PM, john spaur wrote: >>I can be pretty hard on clutches due to my shifting habits; >>generally 75-80K miles. However, the Mitsubishi clutch had 150,000 >>miles on it before replacement. >>John From neilandcustom at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 11:21:20 2011 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 12:21:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Need starter push button Message-ID: <006a01cc8383$37bd9eb0$a738dc10$@com> Does anyone have a spare starter push button with the "S" in decent to good shape they would be willing to sell? I can refinish the Bakelite and repaint the "S", if need be. Please respond to my email. Thanks for any help. Neil Anderson Northern Illinois, Midwest club BT7 AN5 project From ruvino at ripnet.com Wed Oct 5 11:31:39 2011 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 13:31:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] spam Message-ID: <44137D1872DF45629E9A04209464217F@HPp6520f> I have been getting a message from bLeonard Hartlettb on the list advertising for a pharmacy. Anybody else? From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 5 11:32:49 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 17:32:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <315523312.68681.1317835969500.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I'm the 'belt-and-suspenders' type; e.g. I'll use sealant on (some) gaskets and have been known to use both threadlocker and lockwashers on bolts and nuts. However, I don't put Teflon tape on brake fittings; I think (speculate) some of the material will remain on the inside threads when the fitting is unscrewed, and this can get pushed back into the system when you re-install the fitting. Brake fittings shouldn't leak without tape; and if you can't get them off with a flare nut wrench you've got bigger problems anyway. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Oritt" To: "BJ8 Healeys" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 8:12:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch I do as well--and for many years used it on flared fittings on diesel fuel systems--for the reasons Steve says. You simply need to be careful not to have any tape hanging so that it might get into an orifice or injector nozzle and I always wrap the tape in a clockwise direction so that tightening the nut will not back the tape out or lift the end. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 7:30 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > I always use Teflon tape on threaded fittings, in the brake system and > elsewhere, if not to prevent leaks then to prevent the fittings from > seizing > the next time I want to take them apart. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 10:26 PM > To: Richard Kahn > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > > Rich - > > Never use any sort of sealant on your brake system anywhere. The fittings > are compression fittings and they always seal by design, unless the fitting > is damaged. If you have to use sealant/teflon tape, then you need to > replace our fittings because it's not safe. > > Best, > > Alan From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Wed Oct 5 13:49:14 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 12:49:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] spam In-Reply-To: <44137D1872DF45629E9A04209464217F@HPp6520f> References: <44137D1872DF45629E9A04209464217F@HPp6520f> Message-ID: Yes. > From: ruvino at ripnet.com > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 13:31:39 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] spam > > I have been getting a message from bLeonard Hartlettb on the list > advertising for a pharmacy. Anybody else? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From phoenix722 at comcast.net Wed Oct 5 13:53:14 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 12:53:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] teflon Message-ID: I agree with Bob. Teflon tape is really "magic stuff", but can be disastrous in the wrong place. I wouldn't use it on hydraulic fittings, on the chance that it would contaminate. I spent some time in the pulp and paper industry, and some paper mills completely outlawed teflon anywhere in the mill. Because it's density is close to that of water, it is almost impossible to remove, and can lead to holes in the sheet, which is not good. Hydraulic threads can be difficult to engage, but properly done, work fine. One has to be careful not to overtighten. Mike BN2 From dcongleton at embarqmail.com Wed Oct 5 13:57:01 2011 From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 15:57:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] spam References: <44137D1872DF45629E9A04209464217F@HPp6520f> Message-ID: <07D5C0C9982B4D9386030A46184E728E@your4dacd0ea75> Yes. and my anti virus program spam blocked it as a threat for some reason........ so I would suggest not opening the email. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: <> Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2011 1:31 PM Subject: [Healeys] spam >I have been getting a message from b Leonard Hartlettb on the list > advertising for a pharmacy. Anybody else? > _______________________________________________ From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 15:49:56 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 05:49:56 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] teflon In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Certain fittings and gaskets on the car are meant to "leak" if there is a problem. This includes all brake fittings and also all gaskets on rear axle. You should never use any sort of sealant on either system. If you have a leak, that means there's a problem you need to fix. Teflon or gasket sealants will mask the problem and you will risk damage to your car or even brake failure as a result. On 10/6/11, Mike Sinclair wrote: > I agree with Bob. Teflon tape is really "magic stuff", but can be > disastrous > in the wrong place. I wouldn't use it on hydraulic fittings, on the chance > that it would contaminate. I spent some time in the pulp and paper > industry, > and some paper mills completely outlawed teflon anywhere in the mill. > Because > it's density is close to that of water, it is almost impossible to remove, > and > can lead to holes in the sheet, which is not good. Hydraulic threads can be > difficult to engage, but properly done, work fine. One has to be careful > not > to overtighten. > > Mike > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Oct 5 16:03:42 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 18:03:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] spam In-Reply-To: References: <44137D1872DF45629E9A04209464217F@HPp6520f> Message-ID: <01e401cc83aa$a57a0ca0$f06e25e0$@verizon.net> Since they are coming in on the Healeys List, I would imagine that everyone on the list has received one. They are obvious so anyone who opens them has themselves to blame if they contain a virus or something more dire. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2011 3:49 PM To: ruvino at ripnet.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] spam Yes. > From: ruvino at ripnet.com > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 13:31:39 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] spam > > I have been getting a message from b Leonard Hartlettb on the list > advertising for a pharmacy. Anybody else? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Oct 5 17:16:31 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 19:16:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] teflon In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003001cc83b4$d16cc460$74464d20$@rr.com> Many maintenance practices are a matter of opinion, based on personal experience. I have never had any problem with contamination of brakes or anything else from using Teflon tape as an anti-seize material in 20 years of using it on all my cars. When I use Teflon on threads, I am careful to make sure that ONLY the male threads are covered. When I break a joint with Teflon, I am careful to remove all traces of the previous Teflon before resealing. If I had a bad experience with it, then I might reconsider; but my experience has been that without Teflon it can be very difficult to disconnect corroded or otherwise seized threads without damage to the nut. With Teflon, there are no leaks with less torque and no seizing, either. Recently I had occasion to break a rear brake line joint at the splitter block on my '69 Dodge Charger (I'm the original owner). The nut had never been loosened since the car left the factory. It would not turn with any kind of wrench or penetrant and I gave up when the nut shoulders started to round off. I'm a believer in Teflon, but then I don't make paper. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sinclair Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2011 3:53 PM To: Healey Forum Subject: [Healeys] teflon I agree with Bob. Teflon tape is really "magic stuff", but can be disastrous in the wrong place. I wouldn't use it on hydraulic fittings, on the chance that it would contaminate. I spent some time in the pulp and paper industry, and some paper mills completely outlawed teflon anywhere in the mill. Because it's density is close to that of water, it is almost impossible to remove, and can lead to holes in the sheet, which is not good. Hydraulic threads can be difficult to engage, but properly done, work fine. One has to be careful not to overtighten. Mike BN2 From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 17:42:13 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 16:42:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] teflon In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This correct. Think about it. The threads are NOT the seal in a brake system. Either the flair is the sealing area or in some cases copper crush washers are the seal (in the case of a banjo type fitting) Teflon tape or paste can only create problems and not solve any. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Oct 5, 2011, at 14:49, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Certain fittings and gaskets on the car are meant to "leak" if there > is a problem. This includes all brake fittings and also all gaskets > on rear axle. You should never use any sort of sealant on either > system. If you have a leak, that means there's a problem you need to > fix. Teflon or gasket sealants will mask the problem and you will > risk damage to your car or even brake failure as a result. > > > > On 10/6/11, Mike Sinclair wrote: >> I agree with Bob. Teflon tape is really "magic stuff", but can be >> disastrous >> in the wrong place. I wouldn't use it on hydraulic fittings, on the chance >> that it would contaminate. I spent some time in the pulp and paper >> industry, >> and some paper mills completely outlawed teflon anywhere in the mill. >> Because >> it's density is close to that of water, it is almost impossible to remove, >> and >> can lead to holes in the sheet, which is not good. Hydraulic threads can be >> difficult to engage, but properly done, work fine. One has to be careful >> not >> to overtighten. >> >> Mike >> BN2 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Wed Oct 5 18:40:55 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 17:40:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spam E-mail Message-ID: <142F43756BC94C5EAAC880DA07B84436@LeonardPCPC> THIS ONE IS FROM ME! The spam e-mail that you have been receiving was NOT sent by me. The last e-mail that I sent to The List had a link to the Fraz comic strip. From what I understand, this is not the link that is in any of the spam e-mail that you have been receiving. The first person to contact me about this situation was a Lister on 10/3 . I responded to him through The Healey Mail List asking, "what message"? I further stated that I had received over 50 'failure to deliver' messages that morning. Many of them to recipients that are not on the Healey Mail List. Someone get into my address book? If they were valid address, why did they fail to deliver? Did their security programs block them? What I noted was that although the names were familiar, the servers were not the same as currently in my address book. Of 19 addresses checked, only three were as shown in my Address Book. Nineteen were familiar names but the servers were different. Five were addresses/names that I did not know. I asked if anyone else on The List had gotten a bad e-mail from me. No one responded. That has changed over the last couple of days. I ran all my security scans again to see if anything showed up. Avast - nothing. AdAware - only cookies. However, SuperAntiSpyware noted two critical threats. They say they removed them. I could not tell what they were because full addresses were not provided. What was shown for both was, "c:\USERS\LEONARD-PC\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Wi...\webfile". I consider myself somewhat computer challenged (duh!) and those did not give me any clues as to what the threat was. My computer has not been turned on yesterday and most of today. When I turned it on about 4:30 PM, I had 184 e-mails, 46 of which were "Mail Delivery System" noting failed deliveries or returned messages. There were several other "From" addresses stating virtually the same thing. Since I do not have the technical knowledge to resolve this problem, any assistance that anyone can give in this matter will be greatly appreciated. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Oct 5 18:45:46 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 19:45:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] spam AND a "Subject: x In-Reply-To: <44137D1872DF45629E9A04209464217F@HPp6520f> References: <44137D1872DF45629E9A04209464217F@HPp6520f> Message-ID: <4E8CFA3A.4010303@justbrits.com> << Yes. and my anti virus program spam blocked it as a threat for some reason........ so I would suggest not opening the email. >> Yep, and if I was you Dallas [an d as I just said in a PM to him], WERE I YOU, I would run the FREE MS Program ! ! ! Did ANY of you read the "[Healeys] x" post from me ???? Here it is AGAIN ! ! ! *********************************** Folks, as a bunch of us know Len Hartnett and/or earthlink.net have a "problem". I lean towards earthlink as being the culprit as I have received six (6) other chaps' "mailings" and ALL are earthlink customers. A lot of us are aware that this 'example' started with the POS aol and has also shown up with another POS "free" eMail service yahoo. Apparently from my research it can [and does] get past some of the middle-tier Anti-viral 'Suites'. Some further digging has led me to a 'free', 10-day life program FROM Microsoft themselves. As I have not had the problem myself take this "lead for a cure" with a grain of salt and PLEASE report back to us [or at least me] whether it was totally successful, partially successful or didn't help at all !?!? http://www.microsoft.com/security/scanner/en-us/default.aspx Interesting note ref above, www.tinyurl.com will NOT work for that link ?!?!? If by some odd chance the above link does not work for you, write me direct and I will send to you [also] direct. Anyway, I did run it and found one (1) tiny 'bot' in a CNET download which the MS Program DID remove ! ! ! Good luck to all and HTHs ! ! ! ! Ed '63 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey] From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Oct 5 18:45:59 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 00:45:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?anti-seize?= Message-ID: <20111006004559.23617.qmail@server278.com> From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Oct 5 18:48:08 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 00:48:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?anti-sieze?= Message-ID: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> i use that copper anti-sieze stuff on bolts that i think might sieze up. have never used it on brake fittings but am wondering if there would be a problem with it. hjim From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Wed Oct 5 19:43:09 2011 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 20:43:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Furflex seals Again Message-ID: <000601cc83c9$4d8c7ea0$e8a57be0$@tx.rr.com> Does the screw that holds the furflex in the corner (CZZ 404) install from the inside to the outside or outside to the inside? TIA Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 5 21:05:15 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 20:05:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] anti-sieze In-Reply-To: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> References: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4E8D1AEB.5000808@comcast.net> Some of the brake fluid test strips test copper level in the fluid (high copper level may mean depletion of corrosion inhibitors). I suppose the copper from the anti-seize could give a false reading (although the real purpose of these strips may be to sell 'brake system flushes' at the local quickie lube). Also, copper can foul the ABS valves in your Healey* Bob * kidding On 10/5/2011 5:48 PM, healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: > i use that copper anti-sieze stuff on bolts that i think might sieze up. have never used it on brake fittings but am wondering if there would be a problem with it. hjim > _______________________________________________ > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Oct 5 21:21:25 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 20:21:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] anti-sieze In-Reply-To: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> References: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: I use the Kopper Shield paste on the electrical bullet connections as well as the exhaust studs. It precludes corrosion and never really dries out. Conducts electricity being copper suspended in the paste. Heck, I might ruin the Lucas reputation of reliability with this stuff. ;^) Mike MacLean Sent from my iPhone On Oct 5, 2011, at 17:48, wrote: > i use that copper anti-sieze stuff on bolts that i think might sieze up. have never used it on brake fittings but am wondering if there would be a problem with it. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 23:11:23 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 13:11:23 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Furflex seals Again In-Reply-To: <000601cc83c9$4d8c7ea0$e8a57be0$@tx.rr.com> References: <000601cc83c9$4d8c7ea0$e8a57be0$@tx.rr.com> Message-ID: Jim - I am pretty sure it is from the outside to the inside. Alan On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 9:43 AM, Richard J. Hockert wrote: > Does the screw that holds the furflex in the corner (CZZ 404) install from > the inside to the outside or outside to the inside? > > TIA > > Best regards, > Jim Hockert > Dallas, TX > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 23:12:22 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 13:12:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] anti-sieze In-Reply-To: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> References: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Anti Seize used sparingly on the male threads would probably be just fine. On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 8:48 AM, wrote: > i use that copper anti-sieze stuff on bolts that i think might sieze up. > have never used it on brake fittings but am wondering if there would be a > problem with it. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Wed Oct 5 23:14:29 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 07:14:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] anti-sieze In-Reply-To: References: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Use it with care /dont let it come in contact with the linings/, but You may use it at the brakes. It is heat resistant to a point, soo will not likely spalsh on the brake linings when You use the brakes just before the Mulsanne Corner /lol/. Although better to use Your car frequently and You will never see the brakes seizing. Gergo 2011/10/6 Mike MacLean > I use the Kopper Shield paste on the electrical bullet connections as well > as > the exhaust studs. It precludes corrosion and never really dries out. > Conducts electricity being copper suspended in the paste. Heck, I might > ruin > the Lucas reputation of reliability with this stuff. ;^) > Mike MacLean > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 5, 2011, at 17:48, wrote: > > > i use that copper anti-sieze stuff on bolts that i think might sieze up. > have never used it on brake fittings but am wondering if there would be a > problem with it. hjim > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Wed Oct 5 23:59:31 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 00:59:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spam E-mail In-Reply-To: <142F43756BC94C5EAAC880DA07B84436@LeonardPCPC> References: <142F43756BC94C5EAAC880DA07B84436@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <4E8D43C3.5000202@justbrits.com> << THIS ONE IS FROM ME! >> GOOD. Then READ [and FOLLOW] my TWO (2) posts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ed PS: AND the REST of you ALSO !!! Geeesh From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 6 02:38:55 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 10:38:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] anti-sieze In-Reply-To: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> References: <20111006004808.27316.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4E8D691F.9090500@chello.nl> There could be if the copper paste contaminates the brake fluid. Better to use dry Graphite powder rubbed on the threads.Should some powder get into the system there will not be any adverse effects. You can also apply some cavity wax on the tightened fittings afterward to prevent future corrosion. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 6-10-2011 2:48, healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef: > i use that copper anti-sieze stuff on bolts that i think might sieze up. have never used it on brake fittings but am wondering if there would be a problem with it. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1809 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4539 - datum van uitgifte: 10/05/11 From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Oct 6 03:50:27 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 05:50:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Hartnett Spam Message-ID: <4fe1c.3408f644.3bbed3e3@aol.com> In a message dated 10/5/11 9:57:39 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Since I do not have the technical knowledge to resolve this problem, any > assistance that anyone can give in this matter will be greatly > appreciated. > Nothing you can now do at your end, Len. Someone or something has gotten hold of one of your old address books and is using it to send out the messages. I've seen that happen to four or five of my friends in the past six months. Eventually they go away -- the spam systems seem to use an address book over a few months, and then stops. However, they're easy to spot when they come in -- no subject line, no content, just the click-link -- and everyone knows not to click a link you don't recognize, no matter where it comes from, if there's no reference, right? -- so they're easy to ignore. Nowadays, if someone doesn't put something in the subject line that I relate to, I delete it without even opening the email. Better an unimportant message not received than something worse. Gary From gmandas at yahoo.com Thu Oct 6 05:10:49 2011 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 07:10:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Furflex seals Again In-Reply-To: <000601cc83c9$4d8c7ea0$e8a57be0$@tx.rr.com> References: <000601cc83c9$4d8c7ea0$e8a57be0$@tx.rr.com> Message-ID: Sorry, dont know what CZZ 404 is. If you are talking about the furflex on the door jam on a bj8, there are two on mine, both inside to out. Pix attached. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image.jpeg] Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Oct 5, 2011, at 9:43 PM, "Richard J. Hockert" wrote: > Does the screw that holds the furflex in the corner (CZZ 404) install from > the inside to the outside or outside to the inside? > > TIA > > Best regards, > Jim Hockert > Dallas, TX > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Thu Oct 6 09:10:29 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 17:10:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 Message-ID: All I'm trying to help a guy identify a BN6 that doesn't have a Chassis number or body number plate on the bulkhead. Are these stamped anywhere else on the car, I seem to remember reading that the body number might be stamped on some parts on some cars (bonnet?) but I dont know if this applies to a BN6 and I don't have access to my reference books. Any help appreciated Derek From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Oct 6 09:38:07 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 08:38:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hartnett Spam - Reply In-Reply-To: <4fe1c.3408f644.3bbed3e3@aol.com> References: <4fe1c.3408f644.3bbed3e3@aol.com> Message-ID: <8F833A970BFC4536BAFBE013C9FD4A64@LeonardPCPC> Gary: Thank you for the words of support. I know it is annoying for the recipients but it is also annoying to me to receive 50 or more 'failed delivery' notices a day. Hopefully, it will go away soon. I am going to contact Earthlink and my security providers ASAP to see if they can help. Other options have been offered, also, that I may try. Thanks again. Len ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 2:50 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hartnett Spam > In a message dated 10/5/11 9:57:39 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> Since I do not have the technical knowledge to resolve this problem, any >> assistance that anyone can give in this matter will be greatly >> appreciated. >> > Nothing you can now do at your end, Len. Someone or something has gotten > hold of one of your old address books and is using it to send out the > messages. I've seen that happen to four or five of my friends in the past > six > months. Eventually they go away -- the spam systems seem to use an address > book > over a few months, and then stops. However, they're easy to spot when they > come in -- no subject line, no content, just the click-link -- and > everyone > knows not to click a link you don't recognize, no matter where it comes > from, > if there's no reference, right? -- so they're easy to ignore. Nowadays, if > someone doesn't put something in the subject line that I relate to, I > delete > it without even opening the email. Better an unimportant message not > received than something worse. > > Gary > _______________________________________________ From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Oct 6 11:12:54 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 10:12:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: you have to send the tranny and engine # British motor heritage trust. they did not stamp the chassis until later years, Maybe BJ7, but definitely BJ8s. if you post the engine # to the list, someone will tell you approx. production date On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 8:10 AM, Derek Job wrote: > All > > I'm trying to help a guy identify a BN6 that doesn't have a Chassis number > or body number plate on the bulkhead. > > Are these stamped anywhere else on the car, I seem to remember reading that > the body number might be stamped on some parts on some cars (bonnet?) but I > dont know if this applies to a BN6 and I don't have access to my reference > books. > > Any help appreciated > > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From phoenix722 at comcast.net Thu Oct 6 11:49:10 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 10:49:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 Message-ID: <63D032BA45754D7994E0318599D1DAC7@Mike> On my BN2, the body number is stamped on a plate on the RH firewall, but where is the engine number? I seem to remember someone once saying there was none. Doesn't seem right. Can someone help? Tx. Mike BN2 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- ----- Original Message ----- From: Derek Job To: Forum Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 8:10 AM Subject: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 All I'm trying to help a guy identify a BN6 that doesn't have a Chassis number or body number plate on the bulkhead. Are these stamped anywhere else on the car, I seem to remember reading that the body number might be stamped on some parts on some cars (bonnet?) but I dont know if this applies to a BN6 and I don't have access to my reference books. Any help appreciated Derek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Thu Oct 6 13:26:47 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 15:26:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Barbie healey Message-ID: Just saw a barbie healey that is missing something. Should it have a windshield or mirrors? Price is 79.00usd. Is that good? Bob Johnson BJ8 From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Oct 6 14:02:27 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 13:02:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 In-Reply-To: <63D032BA45754D7994E0318599D1DAC7@Mike> References: <63D032BA45754D7994E0318599D1DAC7@Mike> Message-ID: Mike, BOTH the batch and body numbers PLUS the chassis number should be on the firewall of your BN2. The engine number was on a small aluminum plate with rounded ends riveted to the right side of the engine block right below the cylinder head. Unfortuneatly if you don't remove this plate before you hot tank the engine prior to rebuilding, the aluminum plate will disintegrate, and be lost to history. FYI your engine number would have been the same as the chassis number for a BN2. See attached photos. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 10:49 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > On my BN2, the body number is stamped on a plate on the RH firewall, but > where > is the engine number? I seem to remember someone once saying there was > none. > Doesn't seem right. Can someone help? Tx. > > Mike > BN2 > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > --- > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Derek Job > To: Forum > Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 8:10 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 > > > All > > I'm trying to help a guy identify a BN6 that doesn't have a Chassis number > or body number plate on the bulkhead. > > Are these stamped anywhere else on the car, I seem to remember reading that > the body number might be stamped on some parts on some cars (bonnet?) but I > dont know if this applies to a BN6 and I don't have access to my reference > books. > > Any help appreciated > > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_4814.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0136.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0138.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of BN1L 224414.jpg] From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Oct 6 14:31:17 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 20:31:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 In-Reply-To: <63D032BA45754D7994E0318599D1DAC7@Mike> Message-ID: <102419660.130357.1317933077955.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Should be on a narrow, oval plate semi-permanently riveted (nailed) to the block, just above the distributor. Often missing, I would think. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Sinclair" To: "Healey Forum" Sent: Thursday, October 6, 2011 10:49:10 AM Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 On my BN2, the body number is stamped on a plate on the RH firewall, but where is the engine number? I seem to remember someone once saying there was none. Doesn't seem right. Can someone help? Tx. Mike BN2 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Oct 6 15:45:55 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 17:45:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003a01cc8471$5380e9b0$fa82bd10$@rr.com> Derek, my knowledge is of BJ8s only, so for what it's worth: Chassis numbers and body numbers are only stamped on the plates on the firewall. BJ8s in theory also have the chassis number stamped into the outboard vertical (1/2" high) surface of the right front shock absorber mounting tower, but as far as I know earlier models do not. If a BJ8 is missing both its VIN and body number plates and no legible number can be found on the shock tower, then options for identifying the correct chassis number are limited: The rear axle: some have serial numbers and some do not. BMIHT will not do a reverse search on a rear axle serial number to determine the original chassis number. This search would be manual and would be too time-consuming for them to do. A personal visit to the BMIHT archives might be useful in this case, if possible. The gearbox and/or engine serial number: BMIHT will do a reverse search on an engine serial number, but not a gearbox. But then, there is no guarantee that the engine or gearbox now in the car is original to it anyway. I know of many people who have ordered a certificate using the serial number of the engine in their car and got a certificate that turns out not to apply to their actual chassis as later identified. BMIHT will do an informal search of factory build cards without issuing a certificate, using their Archive Research Service available at their website. You seem to be referring to the reference numbers stamped on things such as the bonnet latch assembly, the bonnet hinge, and the boot lid prop rod attach flange. These have no use in identification of a specific chassis number. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 11:10 AM To: Forum Subject: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 All I'm trying to help a guy identify a BN6 that doesn't have a Chassis number or body number plate on the bulkhead. Are these stamped anywhere else on the car, I seem to remember reading that the body number might be stamped on some parts on some cars (bonnet?) but I dont know if this applies to a BN6 and I don't have access to my reference books. Any help appreciated Derek From racarbon at verizon.net Thu Oct 6 16:04:49 2011 From: racarbon at verizon.net (RACarbone) Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 18:04:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Furflex seals Again Message-ID: <22142FC048474E13A1C9C6A238F109D2@RACLaptop> Jim, It is from inside to outside. Ray (64BJ8P1) From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Oct 6 17:58:16 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 19:58:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Barbie healey In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20111006195816.6YZLZ.274340.root@pamxwww06-z01> Windshield yes----no mirrors. And---that price w/o a windshield is silly----$25 at most. I have 6 of them. tom ---- Bob Johnson wrote: ============= Just saw a barbie healey that is missing something. Should it have a windshield or mirrors? Price is 79.00usd. Is that good? Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From phoenix722 at comcast.net Thu Oct 6 18:15:40 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 17:15:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] numbers Message-ID: <9FC455D22D2C4EFDBD903A727EDD59C4@Mike> OK. On the right side of the block, top surface, above the distributor, there is a machined spot with two holes; looks like a good place for a number tag, but nothing there now. Rich's picture shows it exactly. But if, as you say, the engine number on a BN2 is the same as the chassis number, that is good, because it is what I used for the title. On the RH firewall are two plates, one with the chassis number, BN2L 231987, the other with two numbers: 13519 5820 which I assume are the batch and body numbers (which is which?). And, what is the definition of the batch number? Is this enough information to determine the date of manufacture? Can someone explain to me (or tell me where to look on the web) about the Heritage Trust? Enough questions for now. As for the brakes, I have it back together, but am experiencing some back pain from something, and not in the mood to go crawling underneath to bleed the lines. It will keep. Someone suggested I contact the previous owner, but this would be difficult, as I have owned the car since 1968, and have no idea who I bought it from. Mike BN2 From ynotink at msn.com Thu Oct 6 18:55:14 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 00:55:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spam E-mail In-Reply-To: <142F43756BC94C5EAAC880DA07B84436@LeonardPCPC> References: <142F43756BC94C5EAAC880DA07B84436@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: Well dogonit Len I was just about to order some Cialis from you. I was looking forward to that four hours... Well never mind. > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 17:40:55 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Spam E-mail > > THIS ONE IS FROM ME! The spam e-mail that you have been receiving was NOT > sent by me. The last e-mail that I sent to The List had a link to the Fraz > comic strip. From what I understand, this is not the link that is in any of > the spam e-mail that you have been receiving. > > The first person to contact me about this situation was a Lister on 10/3 . > I responded to him through The Healey Mail List asking, "what message"? I > further stated that I had received over 50 'failure to deliver' messages > that morning. Many of them to recipients that are not on the Healey Mail > List. Someone get into my address book? If they were valid address, why did > they fail to deliver? Did their security programs block them? > > What I noted was that although the names were familiar, the servers were not > the same as currently in my address book. Of 19 addresses checked, only > three were as shown in my Address Book. Nineteen were familiar names but > the servers were different. Five were addresses/names that I did not know. > > I asked if anyone else on The List had gotten a bad e-mail from me. No one > responded. That has changed over the last couple of days. I ran all my > security scans again to see if anything showed up. Avast - nothing. > AdAware - only cookies. However, SuperAntiSpyware noted two critical > threats. They say they removed them. I could not tell what they were > because full addresses were not provided. What was shown for both was, > "c:\USERS\LEONARD-PC\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Wi...\webfile". I consider > myself somewhat computer challenged (duh!) and those did not give me any > clues as to what the threat was. > > My computer has not been turned on yesterday and most of today. When I > turned it on about 4:30 PM, I had 184 e-mails, 46 of which were "Mail > Delivery System" noting failed deliveries or returned messages. There were > several other "From" addresses stating virtually the same thing. > > Since I do not have the technical knowledge to resolve this problem, any > assistance that anyone can give in this matter will be greatly appreciated. > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From mark at bradakis.com Thu Oct 6 19:02:07 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 19:02:07 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Hartnett Spam - Reply In-Reply-To: <8F833A970BFC4536BAFBE013C9FD4A64@LeonardPCPC> References: <4fe1c.3408f644.3bbed3e3@aol.com> <8F833A970BFC4536BAFBE013C9FD4A64@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <4E8E4F8F.3050802@bradakis.com> Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: > it is also annoying to me to receive 50 or more 'failed delivery' > notices a day. Gosh. I had a Team.Net address spoofed once and got about 12,000 notices in about 2 hours. That was a fun day. Luckily it only took me a few minutes to write a shell script to clean them out of the affected inbox. Sometimes I do wonder why I do this! mjb. From ynotink at msn.com Thu Oct 6 19:06:01 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 01:06:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 In-Reply-To: <003a01cc8471$5380e9b0$fa82bd10$@rr.com> References: , <003a01cc8471$5380e9b0$fa82bd10$@rr.com> Message-ID: The body number was also stamped on the back of the cockpit surround moldings. If they haven't been replaced or lost that should be enough information to identify the car. Bill Lawrence > From: sbyers at ec.rr.com > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 17:45:55 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 > > Derek, my knowledge is of BJ8s only, so for what it's worth: > > Chassis numbers and body numbers are only stamped on the plates on the > firewall. BJ8s in theory also have the chassis number stamped into the > outboard vertical (1/2" high) surface of the right front shock absorber > mounting tower, but as far as I know earlier models do not. If a BJ8 is > missing both its VIN and body number plates and no legible number can be > found on the shock tower, then options for identifying the correct chassis > number are limited: > > The rear axle: some have serial numbers and some do not. BMIHT will not do > a reverse search on a rear axle serial number to determine the original > chassis number. This search would be manual and would be too time-consuming > for them to do. A personal visit to the BMIHT archives might be useful in > this case, if possible. > > The gearbox and/or engine serial number: BMIHT will do a reverse search on > an engine serial number, but not a gearbox. But then, there is no guarantee > that the engine or gearbox now in the car is original to it anyway. I know > of many people who have ordered a certificate using the serial number of the > engine in their car and got a certificate that turns out not to apply to > their actual chassis as later identified. > > BMIHT will do an informal search of factory build cards without issuing a > certificate, using their Archive Research Service available at their > website. > > You seem to be referring to the reference numbers stamped on things such as > the bonnet latch assembly, the bonnet hinge, and the boot lid prop rod > attach flange. These have no use in identification of a specific chassis > number. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Derek Job > Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 11:10 AM > To: Forum > Subject: [Healeys] Chassis and Body Numbers on a BN6 > > All > > I'm trying to help a guy identify a BN6 that doesn't have a Chassis number > or body number plate on the bulkhead. > > Are these stamped anywhere else on the car, I seem to remember reading that > the body number might be stamped on some parts on some cars (bonnet?) but I > dont know if this applies to a BN6 and I don't have access to my reference > books. > > Any help appreciated > > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From phoenix722 at comcast.net Thu Oct 6 19:30:42 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 18:30:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] correction Message-ID: <7982E6B1D65D418EA5AF3BC0D58D1166@Mike> Just for the record, the chassis number is BN2L 231982. Mike BN2 From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Oct 6 20:02:17 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 19:02:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] numbers In-Reply-To: <9FC455D22D2C4EFDBD903A727EDD59C4@Mike> References: <9FC455D22D2C4EFDBD903A727EDD59C4@Mike> Message-ID: Mike, The first number is the batch number and the second is the body number, so 5820 is the batch number and 13519 is the body number. Since they made just over 14,000 BN1s and BN2s, yours is one of the last cars. Cars were built at Jensen in batches that could be from several cars to several hundred cars, hence the batch number. Just Google "British motor industry heritage trust certificate" BTW did you get my email with the photos? Curt On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 5:15 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > OK. On the right side of the block, top surface, above the distributor, > there > is a machined spot with two holes; looks like a good place for a number > tag, > but nothing there now. Rich's picture shows it exactly. But if, as you > say, > the engine number on a BN2 is the same as the chassis number, that is good, > because it is what I used for the title. > > On the RH firewall are two plates, one with the chassis number, BN2L > 231987, > the other with two numbers: > > 13519 > 5820 > > which I assume are the batch and body numbers (which is which?). > And, what is the definition of the batch number? > > Is this enough information to determine the date of manufacture? > > Can someone explain to me (or tell me where to look on the web) about the > Heritage Trust? > > Enough questions for now. As for the brakes, I have it back together, but > am > experiencing some back pain from something, and not in the mood to go > crawling > underneath to bleed the lines. It will keep. > > Someone suggested I contact the previous owner, but this would be > difficult, > as I have owned the car since 1968, and have no idea who I bought it from. > > Mike > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From phoenix722 at comcast.net Thu Oct 6 20:21:34 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 19:21:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] numbers References: <9FC455D22D2C4EFDBD903A727EDD59C4@Mike> Message-ID: <5824C861B51646E89BC2189A1B4C7D58@Mike> Tx. Yes on the photos. My firewall plates are painted over, but readable. Mike ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- ----- Original Message ----- From: Curt/Nancy Arndt To: Mike Sinclair Cc: Healey Forum Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 7:02 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] numbers Mike, The first number is the batch number and the second is the body number, so 5820 is the batch number and 13519 is the body number. Since they made just over 14,000 BN1s and BN2s, yours is one of the last cars. Cars were built at Jensen in batches that could be from several cars to several hundred cars, hence the batch number. Just Google "British motor industry heritage trust certificate" BTW did you get my email with the photos? Curt On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 5:15 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: OK. On the right side of the block, top surface, above the distributor, there is a machined spot with two holes; looks like a good place for a number tag, but nothing there now. Rich's picture shows it exactly. But if, as you say, the engine number on a BN2 is the same as the chassis number, that is good, because it is what I used for the title. On the RH firewall are two plates, one with the chassis number, BN2L 231987, the other with two numbers: 13519 5820 which I assume are the batch and body numbers (which is which?). And, what is the definition of the batch number? Is this enough information to determine the date of manufacture? Can someone explain to me (or tell me where to look on the web) about the Heritage Trust? Enough questions for now. As for the brakes, I have it back together, but am experiencing some back pain from something, and not in the mood to go crawling underneath to bleed the lines. It will keep. Someone suggested I contact the previous owner, but this would be difficult, as I have owned the car since 1968, and have no idea who I bought it from. Mike BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Oct 6 21:01:05 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 03:01:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?coil?= Message-ID: <20111007030105.10444.qmail@server278.com> guy in our car club ordered a new coil for his morgan. it is a 3.4ohm coil. i had told him he needed a 3 ohm coil and he wants to know if the 3.4 is okay. before i go out on a limb and tell him yes, any of you lucas electrical gurus disagree. hjim From rd_parker at juno.com Thu Oct 6 21:52:03 2011 From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 20:52:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vibration Dampener Nut Removal Socket. Message-ID: <20111006.205254.989.1806184@mailpop09.vgs.untd.com> Listers, Does anyone know the size of the vibration dampener nut removal socket for a 3000 engine; either in inches or millimeters? Thanks, Bob in Bellflower, Ca. ____________________________________________________________ Refinance for 2.625%/3.10% APR Loans under 729K usually qualify for US GOV backed refinance programs http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e8e77ce1548d864280st06vuc From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Oct 6 23:06:53 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 22:06:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hartnett Spam In-Reply-To: <4fe1c.3408f644.3bbed3e3@aol.com> References: <4fe1c.3408f644.3bbed3e3@aol.com> Message-ID: <0F4C1861-3DE3-4FFD-B72E-24A628185E5E@cox.net> Actually, these can be more complicated than that. They don't copy your address book, they exploit features of your mail program to actually forward the spam through your email account. For these types of email "viruses" you actually need to track your sent items and turn off features that can be used in this way. Wilko On Oct 6, 2011, at 2:50 AM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/5/11 9:57:39 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> Since I do not have the technical knowledge to resolve this problem, any >> assistance that anyone can give in this matter will be greatly >> appreciated. >> > Nothing you can now do at your end, Len. Someone or something has gotten > hold of one of your old address books and is using it to send out the > messages. From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Oct 6 23:26:54 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 16:26:54 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Vibration Dampener Nut Removal Socket. In-Reply-To: <20111006.205254.989.1806184@mailpop09.vgs.untd.com> References: <20111006.205254.989.1806184@mailpop09.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <8126186669754500B61CEF5D70543BAE@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Bob It just so happens that I know that. It's a 1 inch Whitworth socket that will have a 3/4 inch drive. It is the same for all C-series six-cylinder engines. I had the engine of the BN3/1 upside down on the 4-legged engine stand with a block of wood in the crankcase, the socket, a bar and a long piece of galvanised pipe. One huge pull and it was loose and yes there was a large dent in the wood. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rd_parker at juno.com Sent: Friday, 7 October 2011 2:52 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Vibration Dampener Nut Removal Socket. Listers, Does anyone know the size of the vibration dampener nut removal socket for a 3000 engine; either in inches or millimeters? Thanks, Bob in Bellflower, Ca. ____________________________________________________________ Refinance for 2.625%/3.10% APR Loans under 729K usually qualify for US GOV backed refinance programs http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e8e77ce1548d864280st06vuc _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From shop at justbrits.com Thu Oct 6 23:39:31 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 00:39:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: [...S...pridgets] Classic Car of the Year shortlist - Telegraph] Message-ID: <4E8E9093.1040407@justbrits.com> From the Spridgets List !!! Oughta make a chap down in AZ very happy as well as Big Healey Rally car lovers !!! And I DO want the Triumph Roadster ! ! ! http://tinyurl.com/3dj4nst or* * http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/picturegalleries/8808725/Classic-Car-of- the-Year-shortlist.html _______________________________________________ Ed From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Fri Oct 7 00:24:10 2011 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 7 Oct 2011 08:24:10 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?coil?= Message-ID: hjim, what engine is in the Morgan? 4 or 8 cylinder? Eric bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb Von healeymanjim at hansencc.net An healeys at autox.team.net CC Datum 07.10.2011 06:34:58 Betreff [Healeys] coil bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb guy in our car club ordered a new coil for his morgan. it is a 3.4ohm coil. i had told him he needed a 3 ohm coil and he wants to know if the 3.4 is okay. before i go out on a limb and tell him yes, any of you lucas electrical gurus disagree. hjim From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Oct 7 01:52:59 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 18:52:59 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Vibration Dampener Nut Removal Socket. In-Reply-To: <8126186669754500B61CEF5D70543BAE@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <20111006.205254.989.1806184@mailpop09.vgs.untd.com> <8126186669754500B61CEF5D70543BAE@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: G'day Again I should have added that the reason I am so knowledgeable about this piece of Austin-Healey trivia is thanks to Chris Dimmock who was very kind to lend me what was needed. Chris also gave a presentation at our last AH meeting about these large Whitworth sockets. Just had a typical Sydney late Spring electrical storm pass over and I was anxious to get rid of the message. Apart from a flood in our kitchen due to a clogged box drain (wet clothes from clearing it) and a stuffed phone we are shaken but not stirred. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn Sent: Friday, 7 October 2011 4:27 PM To: rd_parker at juno.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vibration Dampener Nut Removal Socket. G'day Bob It just so happens that I know that. It's a 1 inch Whitworth socket that will have a 3/4 inch drive. It is the same for all C-series six-cylinder engines. I had the engine of the BN3/1 upside down on the 4-legged engine stand with a block of wood in the crankcase, the socket, a bar and a long piece of galvanised pipe. One huge pull and it was loose and yes there was a large dent in the wood. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rd_parker at juno.com Sent: Friday, 7 October 2011 2:52 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Vibration Dampener Nut Removal Socket. Listers, Does anyone know the size of the vibration dampener nut removal socket for a 3000 engine; either in inches or millimeters? Thanks, Bob in Bellflower, Ca. ____________________________________________________________ Refinance for 2.625%/3.10% APR Loans under 729K usually qualify for US GOV backed refinance programs http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e8e77ce1548d864280st06vuc _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Oct 7 04:18:11 2011 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 06:18:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Vibration Dampener Nut Removal Socket. In-Reply-To: <20111006.205254.989.1806184@mailpop09.vgs.untd.com> References: <20111006.205254.989.1806184@mailpop09.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4E8ED1E3.20309@earthlink.net> Bob, If you don't have a 1" Whitworth, a 1-11/16" SAE socket will do the job - it's not quite as snug as the Whitworth socket (AF: 1.671" versus 1.687"). Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 10/06/2011 11:52 PM, rd_parker at juno.com wrote: > Listers, > > Does anyone know the size of the vibration dampener nut removal socket > for a 3000 engine; either in inches or millimeters? > Thanks, > Bob in Bellflower, Ca. > ____________________________________________________________ > Refinance for 2.625%/3.10% APR > Loans under 729K usually qualify for US GOV backed refinance programs > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e8e77ce1548d864280st06vuc > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Oct 7 05:50:35 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 19:50:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Hartnett Spam In-Reply-To: <0F4C1861-3DE3-4FFD-B72E-24A628185E5E@cox.net> References: <4fe1c.3408f644.3bbed3e3@aol.com> <0F4C1861-3DE3-4FFD-B72E-24A628185E5E@cox.net> Message-ID: It's even more complicated than that! They can spoof an email address in your address book and use that address as the sender address, so even if your computer is the one that is infected it is sending out emails under someone else's name. Either way someone's account somewhere is FUBAR. On Fri, Oct 7, 2011 at 1:06 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > Actually, these can be more complicated than that. They don't copy your > address book, they exploit features of your mail program to actually > forward > the spam through your email account. > For these types of email "viruses" you actually need to track your sent > items > and turn off features that can be used in this way. > > Wilko > > On Oct 6, 2011, at 2:50 AM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 10/5/11 9:57:39 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > > writes: > > > > > >> Since I do not have the technical knowledge to resolve this problem, any > >> assistance that anyone can give in this matter will be greatly > >> appreciated. > >> > > Nothing you can now do at your end, Len. Someone or something has gotten > > hold of one of your old address books and is using it to send out the > > messages. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From bighealey at charter.net Fri Oct 7 06:02:02 2011 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 05:02:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Barbie healey In-Reply-To: <20111006195816.6YZLZ.274340.root@pamxwww06-z01> References: <20111006195816.6YZLZ.274340.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: <004301cc84e8$ed30f6f0$c792e4d0$@charter.net> It's a shame to have them sit in a shelf in a box. My daughter still uses hers even now that she is an college. It is not a "shelf queen" it get used. Hehehehe shelf queen. Wow am I easily entertained. Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 4:58 PM To: Bob Johnson; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Barbie healey Windshield yes----no mirrors. And---that price w/o a windshield is silly----$25 at most. I have 6 of them. tom ---- Bob Johnson wrote: ============= Just saw a barbie healey that is missing something. Should it have a windshield or mirrors? Price is 79.00usd. Is that good? Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net From agrossman at pacific.net Fri Oct 7 08:04:36 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 07:04:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions Message-ID: I replaced the carpets in my '58 BN4. The rear wheel arches were carpeted by the po. Looking at Moss, it seems that I have the correct vinyl upper piece that is the forward section up to the top bow cavity (hope this makes sense) Anyone know where I could get the bottom part? Also the right front kick panel has a large hole, just like I see in Moss. Is there something (a map pocket?) that goes in there? Thanks, Alan From jhomonek at mindspring.com Fri Oct 7 08:10:40 2011 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 10:10:40 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] Huge Healey Only Event- Oct 20-23, 2011 with Special Guest - Gerry Coker - 2 Registrations Left Message-ID: <755916.1317996640351.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Call and register today and reserve your spot. We have only 2 rooms left and registrations to go along with those rooms. We have guests coming in as far north as Canada and as far west as New Mexico! October 20 b October 23, 2011 Lake Guntersville State Park Resort, AL (NE corner of AL) Southeastern Classic XXV Hosted by the Atlanta AHCA. Special Guests: Gerry Coker (designer of Healeys), Marian Coker and Reid Trummel (editor of Healey Marque) Contact Sander Slomovic or Debbie Harrington at 678.595.5022 or dhandss at gmail.com for more information. Get the Registration Form at: http://atlantahealeys.org/ See the promo video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKWM2pJaKK0&feature=youtu.be This is the 25th year for SE Classic! Expect to see 80+ Healeys at this Healey only event! We have reserved the entire lodge for our Healey friends. The lodge overlooks Lake Guntersville and the mountains. Expect to see beautiful fall colors and enjoy cooler weather this time of year. We are planning many fun events: a Rallye through the mountains, a Popular Car Show, Gymkhana, Arts/Crafts and Funkhana. This regional event will be like a mini-Conclave or Rendezvous! Register Now and then Book Your Room for this once in a lifetime event! See you there! John Homonek VP Atlanta Chapter AHCA 1958 BN7 - 1974 Jensen-Healey John Homonek bn7 at mindspring.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Oct 7 10:31:30 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 09:31:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vibration Dampener Nut Removal Socket. In-Reply-To: <4E8ED1E3.20309@earthlink.net> References: <20111006.205254.989.1806184@mailpop09.vgs.untd.com> <4E8ED1E3.20309@earthlink.net> Message-ID: http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/tools/conversion%20charts.htm 1" whitworth = 1 1/8" BSF On Fri, Oct 7, 2011 at 3:18 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Bob, > > If you don't have a 1" Whitworth, a 1-11/16" SAE socket will do the job - > it's not quite as snug as the Whitworth socket (AF: 1.671" versus 1.687"). > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_**3000mk1.php > > > On 10/06/2011 11:52 PM, rd_parker at juno.com wrote: > >> Listers, >> >> Does anyone know the size of the vibration dampener nut removal socket >> for a 3000 engine; either in inches or millimeters? >> Thanks, >> Bob in Bellflower, Ca. >> ______________________________**______________________________ >> Refinance for 2.625%/3.10% APR >> Loans under 729K usually qualify for US GOV backed refinance programs >> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.**com/TGL3141/**4e8e77ce1548d864280st06vuc >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/rchaskell@**earthlink.net >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Oct 7 10:33:04 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 09:33:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Barbie healey In-Reply-To: <004301cc84e8$ed30f6f0$c792e4d0$@charter.net> References: <20111006195816.6YZLZ.274340.root@pamxwww06-z01> <004301cc84e8$ed30f6f0$c792e4d0$@charter.net> Message-ID: made me giggle like a little girl.... Pretty dam funny On Fri, Oct 7, 2011 at 5:02 AM, Tracy Drummond wrote: > It's a shame to have them sit in a shelf in a box. My daughter still uses > hers even now that she is an college. It is not a "shelf queen" it get > used. > > Hehehehe shelf queen. Wow am I easily entertained. > > > Warm Regards, > > Tracy Drummond > > PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 > cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom Felts > Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 4:58 PM > To: Bob Johnson; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Barbie healey > > Windshield yes----no mirrors. And---that price w/o a windshield is > silly----$25 at most. > > I have 6 of them. > > tom > ---- Bob Johnson wrote: > > ============= > Just saw a barbie healey that is missing something. Should it have a > windshield or mirrors? Price is 79.00usd. Is that good? > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Oct 7 11:04:17 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 13:04:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000101cc8513$26479500$72d6bf00$@net> Alan, First we need to determine what interior your '58 BN4 should have. The BN4 built up to April of '58 will have the earlier so called "Longbridge style" of interior trimming. Production of the BN4 stopped in early April of '58 when they concentrated on producing the all new BN6. When they returned to BN4 production in September of '58 the rear quarters were completely redesigned along with the top bows and how they mount and fit. Does your car have small sliding tracks for the mounting of the top bows? If so, it will be the earlier "Longbridge" style interior. Therefore the compound curved rear wheel arches will be covered with matching interior vinyl and completed with a forward rear quarter trim panel as in this picture. In behind the lift out rear squab panel, your rear metal will also have matching interior vinyl glued all across that area where the top bows stow when down. I'm not sure what you refer to as "the bottom part" unless it's the rear quarter trim panel. That should be part of a full interior kit. I only deal with Heritage Upholstery and Trim so I cannot say what Moss may or may not have included. The front right interior trim panel always has the cutout with matching vinyl glued to the relief metal in behind. This was to allow clearance on a RH drive car for the driver's throttle foot. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Grossman Sent: 2011-10-07 10:05 To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions I replaced the carpets in my '58 BN4. The rear wheel arches were carpeted by the po. Looking at Moss, it seems that I have the correct vinyl upper piece that is the forward section up to the top bow cavity (hope this makes sense) Anyone know where I could get the bottom part? Also the right front kick panel has a large hole, just like I see in Moss. Is there something (a map pocket?) that goes in there? Thanks, Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of qtrpanel.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 6 Detail0010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 60002.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of casing.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of August 19 019.jpg] From agrossman at pacific.net Fri Oct 7 11:25:24 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 10:25:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions In-Reply-To: <000101cc8513$26479500$72d6bf00$@net> References: <000101cc8513$26479500$72d6bf00$@net> Message-ID: Thanks Rich and Steve, I know it takes some effort to include images and I really appreciate it! Yes I do have the sliding top fitting, so now I have a clear idea of what to do. I guess I'll get in touch with Heritage. I suppose I can find some matching vinyl and do it myself. It looks like there is some thin foam pad under the vinyl? On the subject of the top mount slide, Can you dircet me to a source for the parts that fit and the slide and mount the top frame? Again, I hope all is clear, and many thanks. Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Chrysler" To: "'Alan Grossman'" ; Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 10:04 AM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Interior questions > Alan, > > First we need to determine what interior your '58 BN4 should have. The BN4 > built up to April of '58 will have the earlier so called "Longbridge > style" > of interior trimming. Production of the BN4 stopped in early April of '58 > when they concentrated on producing the all new BN6. When they returned to > BN4 production in September of '58 the rear quarters were completely > redesigned along with the top bows and how they mount and fit. > > Does your car have small sliding tracks for the mounting of the top bows? > If > so, it will be the earlier "Longbridge" style interior. Therefore the > compound curved rear wheel arches will be covered with matching interior > vinyl and completed with a forward rear quarter trim panel as in this > picture. In behind the lift out rear squab panel, your rear metal will > also > have matching interior vinyl glued all across that area where the top bows > stow when down. > > I'm not sure what you refer to as "the bottom part" unless it's the rear > quarter trim panel. That should be part of a full interior kit. I only > deal > with Heritage Upholstery and Trim so I cannot say what Moss may or may not > have included. > > The front right interior trim panel always has the cutout with matching > vinyl glued to the relief metal in behind. This was to allow clearance on > a > RH drive car for the driver's throttle foot. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Grossman > Sent: 2011-10-07 10:05 > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions > > I replaced the carpets in my '58 BN4. The rear wheel arches were carpeted > by > the po. Looking at Moss, it seems that I have the correct vinyl upper > piece > that is the forward section up to the top bow cavity (hope this makes > sense) > Anyone know where I could get the bottom part? > > Also the right front kick panel has a large hole, just like I see in Moss. > Is > there something (a map pocket?) that goes in there? > > Thanks, Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Fri Oct 7 14:11:42 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 13:11:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spam Problem - Update Message-ID: <72A7A3C9351C4F2B97D3AACB3A96A1BD@LeonardPCPC> A funny thing happened on the way to the Mail List - uh - Forum. I won't know until tomorrow if the spam problem has been resolved. Last night I changed my password at Earthlink. This morning, I was able to download my start page and surf the Internet but I was not able to access my e-mail. For a long time, I have been using Zone Alarm Free and Avast Free as my firewall and anti-virus security protections on the recommendation of some of the members of this Mail List. After about an hour an a half and two different representatives, neither of which were able to gain access to my computer, I was directed to turn off Avast. My e-mail downloaded. Bottom line, the rep said the two programs were fighting each other and I was not protected at all. (Windows Firewall has always been turned OFF) I had been led to believe that one should never have two anti-virus programs or two firewall programs installed at the same time. I did not think that an anti-virus program and a firewall program were a no-no. Apparently, in this case, it was. There is the chance that something is still installed on my computer that is allowing it to pass through the spam messages. I have noted that not all recipients are Earthlink users and at least one of the recipients I have never sent an e-mail to. Go figure. If the messages are still going out under my e-mail address, I will continue to seek a solution. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Fri Oct 7 14:30:58 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 13:30:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spam Problem - Update Update Message-ID: I haven't received "Update" yet so you may receive this one (Update Update) first. Don't be confused. All will be revealed. ;- ) I just realized that I had only turned off Avast for an hour. It has been back on for a couple of hours and I am sending and receiving my e-mails normally. ????????????????????????? (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From edic at tampabay.rr.com Fri Oct 7 14:59:29 2011 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic at tampabay.rr.com) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 16:59:29 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol Message-ID: <4E8F6830.000009.08124@MEL-HP> Healey Folks, I receive an email from Hagerty News today with a video about ethanol damage that I thought I would pass on. http://www.historicvehicle org/Latest-News/September-2011/2011/09/22/Under-hood-ethanol-classic-car?utm_ ource=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=Client&utm_campaign= agerty%20News-October Mel Brunet HBJ8L/39749 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of grad.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 02_splash_emoticon_03b_en.gif] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Oct 7 15:13:25 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 17:13:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Web site updates Message-ID: <00c701cc8535$f47cc400$dd764c00$@verizon.net> Recent additions: 1. Link to an article on a rebuild of the relay box using relays instead of solenoids. On Technical page, Electrical section. 2. Link to Fatmat. Sound deadener which can be used as a heat shield. On Parts page, Body section. 3. Link to Arthur Gould Rebuilders. Rebuilders of water pumps and fuel pumps. On Parts Page, Engine section. 4. Bacon's Dozens. Source for sockets and wrenches of all types, Whitworth, BSF, Metric. Etc. PLUS a great conversion chart and other great information. On Parts page, Tools section. (Thanks, Ira) 5. Link to TS Imported Automotive. Rebuilders of water pumps and engines. 6. An article on brakes. Everything you want or need to know about brakes. On the Technical page, Brake section. This is a 28 page PDF and well worth spending some time reading it. I still have a big backlog of around 80 or so items but it is football season so I will have to get them on during bye weeks. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From cleona44 at hotmail.com Fri Oct 7 15:54:08 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 17:54:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions In-Reply-To: References: , <000101cc8513$26479500$72d6bf00$@net>, Message-ID: Alan - check out Derek Job's www.healeysix.net site especially for the interior http://www.healeysix.net/Longbridge2.htm where do you think you would like to include some thin foam? jim lesher > From: agrossman at pacific.net > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 10:25:24 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interior questions > > Thanks Rich and Steve, > I know it takes some effort to include images and I really appreciate it! > Yes I do have the sliding top fitting, so now I have a clear idea of what to > do. I guess I'll get in touch with Heritage. I suppose I can find some > matching vinyl and do it myself. It looks like there is some thin foam pad > under the vinyl? > > On the subject of the top mount slide, Can you dircet me to a source for the > parts that fit and the slide and mount the top frame? Again, I hope all is > clear, and many thanks. > > Alan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rich Chrysler" > To: "'Alan Grossman'" ; > Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 10:04 AM > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Interior questions > > > > Alan, > > > > First we need to determine what interior your '58 BN4 should have. The BN4 > > built up to April of '58 will have the earlier so called "Longbridge > > style" > > of interior trimming. Production of the BN4 stopped in early April of '58 > > when they concentrated on producing the all new BN6. When they returned to > > BN4 production in September of '58 the rear quarters were completely > > redesigned along with the top bows and how they mount and fit. > > > > Does your car have small sliding tracks for the mounting of the top bows? > > If > > so, it will be the earlier "Longbridge" style interior. Therefore the > > compound curved rear wheel arches will be covered with matching interior > > vinyl and completed with a forward rear quarter trim panel as in this > > picture. In behind the lift out rear squab panel, your rear metal will > > also > > have matching interior vinyl glued all across that area where the top bows > > stow when down. > > > > I'm not sure what you refer to as "the bottom part" unless it's the rear > > quarter trim panel. That should be part of a full interior kit. I only > > deal > > with Heritage Upholstery and Trim so I cannot say what Moss may or may not > > have included. > > > > The front right interior trim panel always has the cutout with matching > > vinyl glued to the relief metal in behind. This was to allow clearance on > > a > > RH drive car for the driver's throttle foot. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of Alan Grossman > > Sent: 2011-10-07 10:05 > > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions > > > > I replaced the carpets in my '58 BN4. The rear wheel arches were carpeted > > by > > the po. Looking at Moss, it seems that I have the correct vinyl upper > > piece > > that is the forward section up to the top bow cavity (hope this makes > > sense) > > Anyone know where I could get the bottom part? > > > > Also the right front kick panel has a large hole, just like I see in Moss. > > Is > > there something (a map pocket?) that goes in there? > > > > Thanks, Alan > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Oct 7 16:51:09 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 18:51:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: <4E8F6830.000009.08124@MEL-HP> References: <4E8F6830.000009.08124@MEL-HP> Message-ID: <00ce01cc8543$9b74ae00$d25e0a00$@verizon.net> Better link is: http://www.historicvehicle.org/Latest-News/September-2011/2011/09/22/Under-h ood-ethanol-classic-car OR http://tinyurl.com/44nyuzn John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of edic at tampabay.rr.com Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 4:59 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol Healey Folks, I receive an email from Hagerty News today with a video about ethanol damage that I thought I would pass on. http://www.historicvehicle org/Latest-News/September-2011/2011/09/22/Under-hood-ethanol-classic-car?utm _ ource=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=Client&utm_campaign = agerty%20News-October Mel Brunet HBJ8L/39749 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Oct 7 16:57:30 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 06:57:30 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: <4E8F6830.000009.08124@MEL-HP> References: <4E8F6830.000009.08124@MEL-HP> Message-ID: All - This is a must watch. Here's the tunyurl: *http://tinyurl.com/3t27eez* * * But heck it sells alot of corn. Don't even get me started on Sen. Chuck Grassley. Alan On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 4:59 AM, edic at tampabay.rr.com wrote: > Healey Folks, > > I receive an email from Hagerty News today with a video about ethanol > damage > that I thought I would pass on. > > http://www.historicvehicle > > org/Latest-News/September-2011/2011/09/22/Under-hood-ethanol-classic-car?utm_ > > ource=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=Client&utm_campaign= > agerty%20News-October > > Mel Brunet > HBJ8L/39749 > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > grad.gif] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > image.gif] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > 02_splash_emoticon_03b_en.gif] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Fri Oct 7 17:07:12 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 19:07:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Web site updates Message-ID: Thanks John, from me and ton of other folks also, I'm sure. Steven Kingsbury In a message dated 10/7/2011 3:20:04 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ahbn6 at verizon.net writes: Recent additions: 1. Link to an article on a rebuild of the relay box using relays instead of solenoids. On Technical page, Electrical section. 2. Link to Fatmat. Sound deadener which can be used as a heat shield. On Parts page, Body section. 3. Link to Arthur Gould Rebuilders. Rebuilders of water pumps and fuel pumps. On Parts Page, Engine section. 4. Bacon's Dozens. Source for sockets and wrenches of all types, Whitworth, BSF, Metric. Etc. PLUS a great conversion chart and other great information. On Parts page, Tools section. (Thanks, Ira) 5. Link to TS Imported Automotive. Rebuilders of water pumps and engines. 6. An article on brakes. Everything you want or need to know about brakes. On the Technical page, Brake section. This is a 28 page PDF and well worth spending some time reading it. I still have a big backlog of around 80 or so items but it is football season so I will have to get them on during bye weeks. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Oct 7 17:17:55 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 19:17:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions In-Reply-To: References: <000101cc8513$26479500$72d6bf00$@net> Message-ID: <000601cc8547$5847e260$08d7a720$@net> Alan, There is no padding under the vinyl that covers the waffle pattern panel behind the rear squab on the early style BN4. It's just matching trim vinyl glued directly onto the painted steel panel. The left and right tracks and brackets are readily available from Kilmartin Sheetmetal in Australia. While you're at it you may need the new channel strips that the early BN4 uses to mount the correct door threshold rubber weather strips. They also make superb alloy door threshold aluminum pieces and don't forget the anodized alloy finishers for the tops of the rear quarter trim panels. I always order these bits direct from Kilmartin and they're very quick to respond and ship. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Grossman Sent: 2011-10-07 1:25 To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interior questions Thanks Rich and Steve, I know it takes some effort to include images and I really appreciate it! Yes I do have the sliding top fitting, so now I have a clear idea of what to do. I guess I'll get in touch with Heritage. I suppose I can find some matching vinyl and do it myself. It looks like there is some thin foam pad under the vinyl? On the subject of the top mount slide, Can you dircet me to a source for the parts that fit and the slide and mount the top frame? Again, I hope all is clear, and many thanks. Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Chrysler" To: "'Alan Grossman'" ; Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 10:04 AM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Interior questions > Alan, > > First we need to determine what interior your '58 BN4 should have. The BN4 > built up to April of '58 will have the earlier so called "Longbridge > style" > of interior trimming. Production of the BN4 stopped in early April of '58 > when they concentrated on producing the all new BN6. When they returned to > BN4 production in September of '58 the rear quarters were completely > redesigned along with the top bows and how they mount and fit. > > Does your car have small sliding tracks for the mounting of the top bows? > If > so, it will be the earlier "Longbridge" style interior. Therefore the > compound curved rear wheel arches will be covered with matching interior > vinyl and completed with a forward rear quarter trim panel as in this > picture. In behind the lift out rear squab panel, your rear metal will > also > have matching interior vinyl glued all across that area where the top bows > stow when down. > > I'm not sure what you refer to as "the bottom part" unless it's the rear > quarter trim panel. That should be part of a full interior kit. I only > deal > with Heritage Upholstery and Trim so I cannot say what Moss may or may not > have included. > > The front right interior trim panel always has the cutout with matching > vinyl glued to the relief metal in behind. This was to allow clearance on > a > RH drive car for the driver's throttle foot. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Grossman > Sent: 2011-10-07 10:05 > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Interior questions > > I replaced the carpets in my '58 BN4. The rear wheel arches were carpeted > by > the po. Looking at Moss, it seems that I have the correct vinyl upper > piece > that is the forward section up to the top bow cavity (hope this makes > sense) > Anyone know where I could get the bottom part? > > Also the right front kick panel has a large hole, just like I see in Moss. > Is > there something (a map pocket?) that goes in there? > > Thanks, Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN9199 - Copy.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 6 Detail0008.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100_8_58_unmolested_c468-top-remote.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN9197 - Copy.JPG] From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Oct 7 18:59:21 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 20:59:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> Maybe it is true-maybe it isn't. Some of those components look like they came fro ancient cars left sitting for a long time. Naturally some of the rubber and components are corroded. How long have we been driving our LBC's using this stuff? ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= All - This is a must watch. Here's the tunyurl: *http://tinyurl.com/3t27eez* * * But heck it sells alot of corn. Don't even get me started on Sen. Chuck Grassley. Alan On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 4:59 AM, edic at tampabay.rr.com wrote: > Healey Folks, > > I receive an email from Hagerty News today with a video about ethanol > damage > that I thought I would pass on. > > http://www.historicvehicle > > org/Latest-News/September-2011/2011/09/22/Under-hood-ethanol-classic-car?utm_ > > ource=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=Client&utm_campaign= > agerty%20News-October > > Mel Brunet > HBJ8L/39749 > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > grad.gif] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > image.gif] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > 02_splash_emoticon_03b_en.gif] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Oct 7 19:28:39 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 09:28:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> References: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: Tom - The affects are much worse on American mechanical fuel pumps. On my old '66 Ford Bronco, one tank with ethanol in it was enough to fry the fuel pump. I fried three fuel pumps putting ethanol based fuel in that car. For LBCs, early on there were problems with HD diaphragms, but the newer ones seem to hold up fine. If your car has H series or HS series carbs, it is much less of an issue. If you have an SU pump, it will eventually fry the pump. The big picture is corn ethanol is a very wasteful and poor substitute for proper fuel. Alan On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > Maybe it is true-maybe it isn't. Some of those components look like they > came fro ancient cars left sitting for a long time. Naturally some of the > rubber and components are corroded. How long have we been driving our LBC's > using this stuff? > > > > ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: > > ============= > All - > > This is a must watch. Here's the tunyurl: > > *http://tinyurl.com/3t27eez* > * > * > But heck it sells alot of corn. Don't even get me started on Sen. Chuck > Grassley. > > Alan > > On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 4:59 AM, edic at tampabay.rr.com > wrote: > > > Healey Folks, > > > > I receive an email from Hagerty News today with a video about ethanol > > damage > > that I thought I would pass on. > > > > http://www.historicvehicle > > > > > org/Latest-News/September-2011/2011/09/22/Under-hood-ethanol-classic-car?utm_ > > > > > ource=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=Client&utm_campaign= > > agerty%20News-October > > > > Mel Brunet > > HBJ8L/39749 > > > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > > grad.gif] > > > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > > image.gif] > > > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > > 02_splash_emoticon_03b_en.gif] > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Oct 7 20:35:32 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 20:35:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> References: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: FWIW.. I attended a Q&A session with Paul Russell (www.paulrussell.com) and he allowed that after speaking with oil company chemists he was told that modern fuel w/ethanol has an absolute shelf life of only 6 months. If you car sits a lot, drain it or stabilize it. I'll add my two cents and that is the worst thing you can do is not drive the car(s) regularly Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 6:59 PM To: Alan Seigrist; edic at tampabay.rr.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Maybe it is true-maybe it isn't. Some of those components look like they came fro ancient cars left sitting for a long time. Naturally some of the rubber and components are corroded. How long have we been driving our LBC's using this stuff? From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Oct 7 22:24:43 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 00:24:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: References: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: <000501cc8572$34469a70$9cd3cf50$@net> So for my seasonally driven LBC that sits for almost 6 months in storage through our damp Ontario winters, we'd better be doing something like drain it, leaving an empty steel tank to gather condensation regardless, or try to stabilize it with something up to the task. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Porter Sent: 2011-10-07 10:36 To: 'Tom Felts'; 'Alan Seigrist'; edic at tampabay.rr.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol FWIW.. I attended a Q&A session with Paul Russell (www.paulrussell.com) and he allowed that after speaking with oil company chemists he was told that modern fuel w/ethanol has an absolute shelf life of only 6 months. If you car sits a lot, drain it or stabilize it. I'll add my two cents and that is the worst thing you can do is not drive the car(s) regularly Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 6:59 PM To: Alan Seigrist; edic at tampabay.rr.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol Maybe it is true-maybe it isn't. Some of those components look like they came fro ancient cars left sitting for a long time. Naturally some of the rubber and components are corroded. How long have we been driving our LBC's using this stuff? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Oct 8 00:41:34 2011 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 23:41:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Phil Hill Tribute in Los Angeles no Healey content Message-ID: THE PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM, THE PHIL HILL FAMILY AND THE CHECKERED FLAG 200 PRESENT Tribute to PHIL HILL on the 50TH Anniversary of Americas First Formula One World Championship Thursday November 10, 2011 6:00 p.m. at the Petersen Automotive Museum Join us for an extraordinary evening honoring Phil Hill one of the greatest drivers of all time! The Great Phil Hill was America's first Formula 1 world champion in 1961 for Ferrari. He won his very first competitive race in 1949 in an MG TC, and his last in 1967 in a Chaparral. He was the first American to win a postwar Grand Prix in 1960 at Monza, and the first American to win the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1958 in one of Scuderia Ferrari's three 250 Testa Rossa entries. In the deadliest-ever era of motorsport, he never broke a bone or shed a drop of blood. He was a talent in Formula 1 and a genius in sports cars, a man who won at night, in the rain, in the craziest of conditions, when everyone else backed off. Enjoy a delicious buffet dinner, live auction and a film program that will highlight Phil Hills Formula One racing career and his participation at Le Mans 24 Hours, where he drove from 1953 through 1967 during arguably the worlds most exciting era of long distance competition. Great Racing Drivers - Following the film, we will interview drivers who accompanied Hill to Europe, and others who came after, to share their stories of friendship and racing with the famous Phil Hill. Names such as Jesse Alexander, Dan Gurney, Parnelli Jones, Jim Hall, John Lamm, Denise McCluggage, and Carroll Shelby have been invited to attend. An exhibition of Phil Hill race cars, among them Bentley, Chaparral, Cobra, Ferrari, Mercedes and Porsche, some being racecars our honored guests drove to significant finishes, as well as memorabilia will be on display in the Museum. Tickets are available on the web at www.petersen.org or by contacting the Petersen Automotive Museum at 323-964-6359 or 323-964-6325. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Tribute to Phil Hill Flyer final.doc] From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Oct 8 01:06:51 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 18:06:51 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Accelerator Pedal Cross Shaft Message-ID: <86979286B75544A69ACEF222EFC7128E@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Sydney in the spring and it's raining of course. I have just removed the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals from the BN3. It's a normal RHD 100 arrangement with the brake/clutch pedals pivoting on a shaft, but the clutch is hydraulic. The accelerator pedal is also standard, but I am curious about the fasteners holding the accelerator cross shaft to the driver's floor. There are two brackets that the accelerator shaft passes through and each of these is attached to the floor by three brass straight slot screws, brass washers, shakeproof washers and brass nuts. You wouldn't know what's original with my car, but I am wondering if the brass fasteners are original on standard four-cylinder cars? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From tonup at tellink.net Sat Oct 8 03:45:16 2011 From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 05:45:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ignition/starter mystery Message-ID: <5B287FF4179E48088FDE465CF471FED6@FrankPC> Hi all, OK, maybe not interesting to me anymore. More like exacerbating! The car isn't a Healey but is a Jag. The parts are very similar if not the same. I've been having some trouble with my '61 Mk2 3.8 auto. This is a complicated story but I've tried simplify things. Here is the present situation: The problem is that it won't start when hot (warmed up). It starts cold just fine and seems to run fine. It will crank over OK when hot but won't catch. Every once in a while, just as I stop pressing the starter button, it would start. Thinking that this might be too low of a voltage to the ignition while cranking I attached a small 12V gel battery to the coil and distributor. It started just fine. Disconnect the extra battery and connect the coil back to the wiring harness, cranks fine but won't start. I still need to run a jumper directly from the battery to the coil to eliminate the ignition switch and the rest of the wiring harness as the problem. I'll also clean the battery terminals. I'm now thinking the starter is drawing too much current or the battery connection is weak. So my question is: Why would the starter draw so much current (if that is what is going on)? What should I do, does the starter need new bushings/bearings? Or is there a short in the starter? Now for the longer story-- This last Spring I took the car into town to get gas after having been parked for Winter, everything seemed fine. I filled it up and tried to start it up again and it cranked fine but wouldn't start. Ran the battery down and had it towed home. Charged the battery and it started right up (it had cooled down). So I bought a Pertronix and installed that. I go for a test drive and it begins to cut out on me. It eventually stops running and I can't get it started. I took a look and found the inside of the distributor cap is damp. After letting the car cool it then starts. On my way home it does this two more times. It looks like the upper radiator hose has some small cracks. I replaced the hose, ignition wires, distributor cap, and the Lucas Sport coil, removed the Pertronix and put the points back in. The spark plugs look fine with the insulators a light grey color so I put them back in instead of replacing them. Now the car starts fine when cold, runs fine when hot and doesn't seem to cut out (I haven't taken it out on the road yet). It won't start when warmed up unless I use a separate battery as I've described above. Looks like it might be three issues: 1) radiator hose- while a problem that needed to be fixed maybe it wasn't the cause of the no start problem 2) Pertronix- I still don't have enough information to arrive at a conclusion. I was using a sport coil without a ballast resistor, maybe it got too hot? 3) Not enough voltage to the coil when cranking. This looks to be the main problem but why is it happening? Does anyone have thoughts or ideas they'd like to share? Thanks, Frank From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Oct 8 05:38:20 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 07:38:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ignition/starter mystery In-Reply-To: <5B287FF4179E48088FDE465CF471FED6@FrankPC> References: <5B287FF4179E48088FDE465CF471FED6@FrankPC> Message-ID: Frank-- If the hot lead to the coil is going through a ballast resistor it is indeed possible that voltage is too low while cranking. For its Unilite and Maglite setups Mallory recommends pulling an additional (unballasted) lead to the coil energized off of the starter switch so that you get full voltage while starting and somewhat reduced voltage while running. Perhaps this will help with this part of your situation. Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 5:45 AM, Frank wrote: > Hi all, > > OK, maybe not interesting to me anymore. More like exacerbating! > > The car isn't a Healey but is a Jag. The parts are very similar if not the > same. > > > I've been having some trouble with my '61 Mk2 3.8 auto. This is a > complicated story but I've tried simplify things. Here is the present > situation: > > The problem is that it won't start when hot (warmed up). It starts cold > just fine and seems to run fine. It will crank over OK when hot but won't > catch. Every once in a while, just as I stop pressing the starter button, > it would start. Thinking that this might be too low of a voltage to the > ignition while cranking I attached a small 12V gel battery to the coil and > distributor. It started just fine. Disconnect the extra battery and > connect the coil back to the wiring harness, cranks fine but won't start. > > I still need to run a jumper directly from the battery to the coil to > eliminate the ignition switch and the rest of the wiring harness as the > problem. I'll also clean the battery terminals. I'm now thinking the > starter is drawing too much current or the battery connection is weak. > > So my question is: Why would the starter draw so much current (if that is > what is going on)? What should I do, does the starter need new > bushings/bearings? Or is there a short in the starter? > > > Now for the longer story-- > > This last Spring I took the car into town to get gas after having been > parked for Winter, everything seemed fine. I filled it up and tried to > start it up again and it cranked fine but wouldn't start. Ran the battery > down and had it towed home. Charged the battery and it started right up > (it > had cooled down). > > So I bought a Pertronix and installed that. I go for a test drive and it > begins to cut out on me. It eventually stops running and I can't get it > started. I took a look and found the inside of the distributor cap is > damp. > After letting the car cool it then starts. On my way home it does this two > more times. It looks like the upper radiator hose has some small cracks. > I > replaced the hose, ignition wires, distributor cap, and the Lucas Sport > coil, removed the Pertronix and put the points back in. The spark plugs > look fine with the insulators a light grey color so I put them back in > instead of replacing them. > > Now the car starts fine when cold, runs fine when hot and doesn't seem to > cut out (I haven't taken it out on the road yet). It won't start when > warmed up unless I use a separate battery as I've described above. > > Looks like it might be three issues: > 1) radiator hose- while a problem that needed to be fixed maybe it wasn't > the cause of the no start problem > 2) Pertronix- I still don't have enough information to arrive at a > conclusion. I was using a sport coil without a ballast resistor, maybe it > got too hot? > 3) Not enough voltage to the coil when cranking. This looks to be the main > problem but why is it happening? > > Does anyone have thoughts or ideas they'd like to share? > > Thanks, > Frank > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Oct 8 05:57:12 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 22:57:12 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: <000501cc8572$34469a70$9cd3cf50$@net> References: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> <000501cc8572$34469a70$9cd3cf50$@net> Message-ID: You all remember to add Methylated Spirits to you tank at least once a year, to absorb the condensation, don't you? Try it. Mix 100ml of tap water with 100ml of methylated spirits. What do you get?? About 175ml of liquid. Technically, metho is miscible with water. Enough to remove it from your tank, and still volitile enough to burn. Don't know about Ethanol in petrol. I suppose the issue is if you have 10% ethanol in your petrol, then your 50 litre tank has 5 litres of ethanol. I'm talking about 200ml of metho in a tank of your best premium/ avgas, once a year or so. My American friends call metho http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol Works for me. Your mileage and tank life may vary. Best. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 08/10/2011, at 3:24 PM, "Rich Chrysler" wrote: > So for my seasonally driven LBC that sits for almost 6 months in > storage > through our damp Ontario winters, we'd better be doing something > like drain > it, leaving an empty steel tank to gather condensation regardless, > or try to > stabilize it with something up to the task. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of David Porter > Sent: 2011-10-07 10:36 > To: 'Tom Felts'; 'Alan Seigrist'; edic at tampabay.rr.com > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > FWIW.. I attended a Q&A session with Paul Russell > (www.paulrussell.com) and > he allowed that after speaking with oil company chemists he was told > that > modern fuel w/ethanol has an absolute shelf life of only 6 months. > If you > car sits a lot, drain it or stabilize it. > I'll add my two cents and that is the worst thing you can do is not > drive > the car(s) regularly > Dave > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom Felts > Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 6:59 PM > To: Alan Seigrist; edic at tampabay.rr.com > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Maybe it is true-maybe it isn't. Some of those components look like > they > came fro ancient cars left sitting for a long time. Naturally some > of the > rubber and components are corroded. How long have we been driving > our LBC's > using this stuff? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Oct 8 06:02:05 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 08:02:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Accelerator Pedal Cross Shaft In-Reply-To: <86979286B75544A69ACEF222EFC7128E@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <86979286B75544A69ACEF222EFC7128E@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <001501cc85b2$190e9240$4b2bb6c0$@net> I can say that the LH drive cars use one of those alloy brackets and the 3 screws and I recall on a number of cars these becoming totally seized over the years because they are steel screws holding the alloy bracket casting. Certainly the brass screws would be an improvement by solving the corrosion problem there. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn Sent: 2011-10-08 3:07 To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Accelerator Pedal Cross Shaft G'day Sydney in the spring and it's raining of course. I have just removed the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals from the BN3. It's a normal RHD 100 arrangement with the brake/clutch pedals pivoting on a shaft, but the clutch is hydraulic. The accelerator pedal is also standard, but I am curious about the fasteners holding the accelerator cross shaft to the driver's floor. There are two brackets that the accelerator shaft passes through and each of these is attached to the floor by three brass straight slot screws, brass washers, shakeproof washers and brass nuts. You wouldn't know what's original with my car, but I am wondering if the brass fasteners are original on standard four-cylinder cars? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Oct 8 06:14:23 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 23:14:23 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ignition/starter mystery In-Reply-To: <5B287FF4179E48088FDE465CF471FED6@FrankPC> References: <5B287FF4179E48088FDE465CF471FED6@FrankPC> Message-ID: <8CE30419-D87A-49AA-993C-142ACFE261F8@gmail.com> Its a process. 1. Check your earth lead. Remove both ends. and Sand/Grind and degrease to bare metal. Use some light dielectric grease. 2. Clean both battery terminals. Clean to bare metal and degrease. Use some light dielectric grease . 3. Clean the battery lead to the starter. You know the drill.... The next steps are more detailed, but until you've done these, they are possibly unnecessary. Possible step 4 is swap out the coil. ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 08/10/2011, at 8:45 PM, "Frank" wrote: > Hi all, > > OK, maybe not interesting to me anymore. More like exacerbating! > > The car isn't a Healey but is a Jag. The parts are very similar if > not the > same. > > > I've been having some trouble with my '61 Mk2 3.8 auto. This is a > complicated story but I've tried simplify things. Here is the present > situation: > > The problem is that it won't start when hot (warmed up). It starts > cold > just fine and seems to run fine. It will crank over OK when hot but > won't > catch. Every once in a while, just as I stop pressing the starter > button, > it would start. Thinking that this might be too low of a voltage to > the > ignition while cranking I attached a small 12V gel battery to the > coil and > distributor. It started just fine. Disconnect the extra battery and > connect the coil back to the wiring harness, cranks fine but won't > start. > > I still need to run a jumper directly from the battery to the coil to > eliminate the ignition switch and the rest of the wiring harness as > the > problem. I'll also clean the battery terminals. I'm now thinking > the > starter is drawing too much current or the battery connection is weak. > > So my question is: Why would the starter draw so much current (if > that is > what is going on)? What should I do, does the starter need new > bushings/bearings? Or is there a short in the starter? > > > Now for the longer story-- > > This last Spring I took the car into town to get gas after having been > parked for Winter, everything seemed fine. I filled it up and tried > to > start it up again and it cranked fine but wouldn't start. Ran the > battery > down and had it towed home. Charged the battery and it started > right up (it > had cooled down). > > So I bought a Pertronix and installed that. I go for a test drive > and it > begins to cut out on me. It eventually stops running and I can't > get it > started. I took a look and found the inside of the distributor cap > is damp. > After letting the car cool it then starts. On my way home it does > this two > more times. It looks like the upper radiator hose has some small > cracks. I > replaced the hose, ignition wires, distributor cap, and the Lucas > Sport > coil, removed the Pertronix and put the points back in. The spark > plugs > look fine with the insulators a light grey color so I put them back in > instead of replacing them. > > Now the car starts fine when cold, runs fine when hot and doesn't > seem to > cut out (I haven't taken it out on the road yet). It won't start when > warmed up unless I use a separate battery as I've described above. > > Looks like it might be three issues: > 1) radiator hose- while a problem that needed to be fixed maybe it > wasn't > the cause of the no start problem > 2) Pertronix- I still don't have enough information to arrive at a > conclusion. I was using a sport coil without a ballast resistor, > maybe it > got too hot? > 3) Not enough voltage to the coil when cranking. This looks to be > the main > problem but why is it happening? > > Does anyone have thoughts or ideas they'd like to share? > > Thanks, > Frank > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Oct 8 06:29:45 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 06:29:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ignition/starter mystery In-Reply-To: <5B287FF4179E48088FDE465CF471FED6@FrankPC> References: <5B287FF4179E48088FDE465CF471FED6@FrankPC> Message-ID: <908AB2641B7D480190FE017B573CE567@oscar> Compression readings? Fuel pressure reading? Check the basics first. Exhaust side tappet sleeves moving? dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2011 3:45 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ignition/starter mystery Hi all, OK, maybe not interesting to me anymore. More like exacerbating! The car isn't a Healey but is a Jag. The parts are very similar if not the same. I've been having some trouble with my '61 Mk2 3.8 auto. This is a complicated story but I've tried simplify things. Here is the present situation: The problem is that it won't start when hot (warmed up). It starts cold just fine and seems to run fine. It will crank over OK when hot but won't catch. Every once in a while, just as I stop pressing the starter button, it would start. Thinking that this might be too low of a voltage to the ignition while cranking I attached a small 12V gel battery to the coil and distributor. It started just fine. Disconnect the extra battery and connect the coil back to the wiring harness, cranks fine but won't start. I still need to run a jumper directly from the battery to the coil to eliminate the ignition switch and the rest of the wiring harness as the problem. I'll also clean the battery terminals. I'm now thinking the starter is drawing too much current or the battery connection is weak. So my question is: Why would the starter draw so much current (if that is what is going on)? What should I do, does the starter need new bushings/bearings? Or is there a short in the starter? Now for the longer story-- This last Spring I took the car into town to get gas after having been parked for Winter, everything seemed fine. I filled it up and tried to start it up again and it cranked fine but wouldn't start. Ran the battery down and had it towed home. Charged the battery and it started right up (it had cooled down). So I bought a Pertronix and installed that. I go for a test drive and it begins to cut out on me. It eventually stops running and I can't get it started. I took a look and found the inside of the distributor cap is damp. After letting the car cool it then starts. On my way home it does this two more times. It looks like the upper radiator hose has some small cracks. I replaced the hose, ignition wires, distributor cap, and the Lucas Sport coil, removed the Pertronix and put the points back in. The spark plugs look fine with the insulators a light grey color so I put them back in instead of replacing them. Now the car starts fine when cold, runs fine when hot and doesn't seem to cut out (I haven't taken it out on the road yet). It won't start when warmed up unless I use a separate battery as I've described above. Looks like it might be three issues: 1) radiator hose- while a problem that needed to be fixed maybe it wasn't the cause of the no start problem 2) Pertronix- I still don't have enough information to arrive at a conclusion. I was using a sport coil without a ballast resistor, maybe it got too hot? 3) Not enough voltage to the coil when cranking. This looks to be the main problem but why is it happening? Does anyone have thoughts or ideas they'd like to share? Thanks, Frank _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Oct 8 07:29:57 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2011 15:29:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ignition/starter mystery In-Reply-To: References: <5B287FF4179E48088FDE465CF471FED6@FrankPC> Message-ID: <4E905055.7030607@chello.nl> This bypass wire is probably there, running from the starter solenoid (on bulk head or starter motor, which ever is applicable), often white with a yellow tracer. This wire may have been broken or disconnected. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 8-10-2011 13:38, Michael Oritt schreef: > Frank-- > > If the hot lead to the coil is going through a ballast resistor it is indeed > possible that voltage is too low while cranking. For its Unilite and > Maglite setups Mallory recommends pulling an additional (unballasted) lead > to the coil energized off of the starter switch so that you get full voltage > while starting and somewhat reduced voltage while running. Perhaps this > will help with this part of your situation. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 5:45 AM, Frank wrote: > >> Hi all, >> >> OK, maybe not interesting to me anymore. More like exacerbating! >> >> The car isn't a Healey but is a Jag. The parts are very similar if not the >> same. >> >> >> I've been having some trouble with my '61 Mk2 3.8 auto. This is a >> complicated story but I've tried simplify things. Here is the present >> situation: >> >> The problem is that it won't start when hot (warmed up). It starts cold >> just fine and seems to run fine. It will crank over OK when hot but won't >> catch. Every once in a while, just as I stop pressing the starter button, >> it would start. Thinking that this might be too low of a voltage to the >> ignition while cranking I attached a small 12V gel battery to the coil and >> distributor. It started just fine. Disconnect the extra battery and >> connect the coil back to the wiring harness, cranks fine but won't start. >> >> I still need to run a jumper directly from the battery to the coil to >> eliminate the ignition switch and the rest of the wiring harness as the >> problem. I'll also clean the battery terminals. I'm now thinking the >> starter is drawing too much current or the battery connection is weak. >> >> So my question is: Why would the starter draw so much current (if that is >> what is going on)? What should I do, does the starter need new >> bushings/bearings? Or is there a short in the starter? >> >> >> Now for the longer story-- >> >> This last Spring I took the car into town to get gas after having been >> parked for Winter, everything seemed fine. I filled it up and tried to >> start it up again and it cranked fine but wouldn't start. Ran the battery >> down and had it towed home. Charged the battery and it started right up >> (it >> had cooled down). >> >> So I bought a Pertronix and installed that. I go for a test drive and it >> begins to cut out on me. It eventually stops running and I can't get it >> started. I took a look and found the inside of the distributor cap is >> damp. >> After letting the car cool it then starts. On my way home it does this two >> more times. It looks like the upper radiator hose has some small cracks. >> I >> replaced the hose, ignition wires, distributor cap, and the Lucas Sport >> coil, removed the Pertronix and put the points back in. The spark plugs >> look fine with the insulators a light grey color so I put them back in >> instead of replacing them. >> >> Now the car starts fine when cold, runs fine when hot and doesn't seem to >> cut out (I haven't taken it out on the road yet). It won't start when >> warmed up unless I use a separate battery as I've described above. >> >> Looks like it might be three issues: >> 1) radiator hose- while a problem that needed to be fixed maybe it wasn't >> the cause of the no start problem >> 2) Pertronix- I still don't have enough information to arrive at a >> conclusion. I was using a sport coil without a ballast resistor, maybe it >> got too hot? >> 3) Not enough voltage to the coil when cranking. This looks to be the main >> problem but why is it happening? >> >> Does anyone have thoughts or ideas they'd like to share? >> >> Thanks, >> Frank >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4543 - datum van uitgifte: 10/07/11 From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Oct 8 07:35:54 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2011 06:35:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: References: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> <000501cc8572$34469a70$9cd3cf50$@net> Message-ID: <4E9051BA.9090001@comcast.net> Not sure if you're being sarcastic, Chris, but denatured alcohol IS ethanol, with something added to make it undrinkable (although the Polish type looks pretty tasty). In a weird way, our 'gasahol' is denatured alcohol, with distilled petroleum as the denaturing agent. When I was younger and (slightly) dumber, I worked at an ag chemical test lab. We had all kinds of solvents available, so occasionally I'd throw a quart or two of methanol in my '66 Mustang's tank to scavenge any water. AFAIK, the car suffered no adverse effects, though methanol--aka 'wood alcohol'--is much more corrosive than ethanol. Bob On 10/8/2011 4:57 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > You all remember to add Methylated Spirits to you tank at least once a year, to absorb the condensation, don't you? > Try it. Mix 100ml of tap water with 100ml of methylated spirits. What do you get?? About 175ml of liquid. > Technically, metho is miscible with water. Enough to remove it from your tank, and still volitile enough to burn. > Don't know about Ethanol in petrol. I suppose the issue is if you have 10% ethanol in your petrol, then your 50 litre > tank has 5 litres of ethanol. > I'm talking about 200ml of metho in a tank of your best premium/ avgas, once a year or so. > My American friends call metho http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol > Works for me. > Your mileage and tank life may vary. > Best. > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 08/10/2011, at 3:24 PM, "Rich Chrysler" wrote: > >> So for my seasonally driven LBC that sits for almost 6 months in storage >> through our damp Ontario winters, we'd better be doing something like drain >> it, leaving an empty steel tank to gather condensation regardless, or try to >> stabilize it with something up to the task. >> >> Rich >> > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Oct 8 08:42:34 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2011 16:42:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Accelerator Pedal Cross Shaft In-Reply-To: <001501cc85b2$190e9240$4b2bb6c0$@net> References: <86979286B75544A69ACEF222EFC7128E@PatrickQuinnPC> <001501cc85b2$190e9240$4b2bb6c0$@net> Message-ID: <4E90615A.8000904@chello.nl> Brass could create even more corrosion problems here as the potential difference is even higher. Best to use zinc or cadmium plated high grade screws and use aluminium based anti seize compound. Then spray wit anti corrosion wax. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 8-10-2011 14:02, Rich C schreef: > I can say that the LH drive cars use one of those alloy brackets and the 3 > screws and I recall on a number of cars these becoming totally seized over > the years because they are steel screws holding the alloy bracket casting. > Certainly the brass screws would be an improvement by solving the corrosion > problem there. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn > Sent: 2011-10-08 3:07 > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Accelerator Pedal Cross Shaft > > G'day > > > > Sydney in the spring and it's raining of course. > > > > I have just removed the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals from the BN3. > It's a normal RHD 100 arrangement with the brake/clutch pedals pivoting on a > shaft, but the clutch is hydraulic. The accelerator pedal is also standard, > but I am curious about the fasteners holding the accelerator cross shaft to > the driver's floor. > > > > There are two brackets that the accelerator shaft passes through and each of > these is attached to the floor by three brass straight slot screws, brass > washers, shakeproof washers and brass nuts. > > > > You wouldn't know what's original with my car, but I am wondering if the > brass fasteners are original on standard four-cylinder cars? > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2085/4543 - datum van uitgifte: 10/07/11 From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Oct 8 09:20:16 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 02:20:16 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol In-Reply-To: <4E9051BA.9090001@comcast.net> References: <20111007205921.HVL4G.281870.root@pamxwww06-z01> <000501cc8572$34469a70$9cd3cf50$@net> <4E9051BA.9090001@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4846A722-281D-4DE7-AC16-10286DE727B0@gmail.com> Hi Bob, Yeah. You got me. My point was 1/5 of a litre of metho, added once a year, is beneficial. It removes the condensation from your tank. Well, from my tank. But I never use Ethanol fuel. I just add my 1/5 of a litre of metho per year to petrol. To Proper petrol. The Highest octane petrol I can get. 5 litres of ethanol per tank isn't beneficial. Not for any reason I can understand. If you think it is, just add 5 litres of metho to your next tank of proper petrol and tell me how your car runs. Ok? ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 09/10/2011, at 12:35 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Not sure if you're being sarcastic, Chris, but denatured alcohol IS > ethanol, with something added to make it undrinkable (although the > Polish type looks pretty tasty). In a weird way, our 'gasahol' is > denatured alcohol, with distilled petroleum as the denaturing agent. > > When I was younger and (slightly) dumber, I worked at an ag chemical > test lab. We had all kinds of solvents available, so occasionally > I'd throw a quart or two of methanol in my '66 Mustang's tank to > scavenge any water. AFAIK, the car suffered no adverse effects, > though methanol--aka 'wood alcohol'--is much more corrosive than > ethanol. > > Bob > > > > On 10/8/2011 4:57 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: >> You all remember to add Methylated Spirits to you tank at least >> once a year, to absorb the condensation, don't you? >> Try it. Mix 100ml of tap water with 100ml of methylated spirits. >> What do you get?? About 175ml of liquid. >> Technically, metho is miscible with water. Enough to remove it from >> your tank, and still volitile enough to burn. >> Don't know about Ethanol in petrol. I suppose the issue is if you >> have 10% ethanol in your petrol, then your 50 litre tank has 5 >> litres of ethanol. >> I'm talking about 200ml of metho in a tank of your best premium/ >> avgas, once a year or so. >> My American friends call metho http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol >> Works for me. >> Your mileage and tank life may vary. >> Best. >> Chris >> www.myaustinhealey.com >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 08/10/2011, at 3:24 PM, "Rich Chrysler" > > wrote: >> >>> So for my seasonally driven LBC that sits for almost 6 months in >>> storage >>> through our damp Ontario winters, we'd better be doing something >>> like drain >>> it, leaving an empty steel tank to gather condensation regardless, >>> or try to >>> stabilize it with something up to the task. >>> >>> Rich >>> >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From tonup at tellink.net Sat Oct 8 15:49:01 2011 From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank) Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 17:49:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ignition/starter mystery Message-ID: <3A27B83CF8BF49CBA25EF772104F8285@FrankPC> Many thanks to all that replied with suggestions! The car now starts when hot with just a touch of the starter button. Upon examination I found the ground (+) lead from the battery to be faulty. The crimped on lug where it attaches to the firewall was a little corroded but the wire inside was blackened and the insulation had melted at the junction. I bought a new one which is a little thicker (4AWG vs 6AWG) for four dollars. I replaced the bolt with a stainless one and used a bronze lock washer and stainless star washer. All is well at the moment but I haven't put the pertronix ignition back in yet. I'm still concerned that is was what caused engine to cut out. Thanks, Frank From JPayne at ThorCon.net Sun Oct 9 11:23:30 2011 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 10:23:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> I have been experiencing a "clonk" when taking off from a start in reverse and 1st gear. When under load, I experience no noise, but when coasting, I'm getting a groaning/clicking sound from under the car. I jacked up the car, and the drive shaft is fine, but I can rotate the driveshaft back and forth about 5 degrees before I hear a click from inside the diff and it "engages". This seems excessive to me. But what should the tolerance be? Haven't checked the oil level yet..... Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Oct 9 13:58:00 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 19:58:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <1038915531.233729.1318190280652.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Sounds like a U-joint. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonas Payne" To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 10:23:30 AM Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft I have been experiencing a "clonk" when taking off from a start in reverse and 1st gear. When under load, I experience no noise, but when coasting, I'm getting a groaning/clicking sound from under the car. I jacked up the car, and the drive shaft is fine, but I can rotate the driveshaft back and forth about 5 degrees before I hear a click from inside the diff and it "engages". This seems excessive to me. But what should the tolerance be? Haven't checked the oil level yet..... Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 9 14:34:28 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 04:34:28 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: Jonas - Check for a Bad U Joint. Alan On 10/10/11, Jonas Payne wrote: > I have been experiencing a "clonk" when taking off from a start in > reverse and 1st gear. > > When under load, I experience no noise, but when coasting, I'm getting a > groaning/clicking sound from under the car. > > I jacked up the car, and the drive shaft is fine, but I can rotate the > driveshaft back and forth about 5 degrees before I hear a click from > inside the diff and it "engages". This seems excessive to me. But what > should the tolerance be? > > Haven't checked the oil level yet..... > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Oct 9 15:54:36 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 17:54:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <1038915531.233729.1318190280652.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20111009175436.3HBM8.289502.root@pamxwww06-z01> Clonk could be worn splines in the hubs and wheels---don't know on the groan. ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Sounds like a U-joint. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonas Payne" To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 10:23:30 AM Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft I have been experiencing a "clonk" when taking off from a start in reverse and 1st gear. When under load, I experience no noise, but when coasting, I'm getting a groaning/clicking sound from under the car. I jacked up the car, and the drive shaft is fine, but I can rotate the driveshaft back and forth about 5 degrees before I hear a click from inside the diff and it "engages". This seems excessive to me. But what should the tolerance be? Haven't checked the oil level yet..... Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From JPayne at ThorCon.net Sun Oct 9 16:29:02 2011 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 15:29:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <20111009175436.3HBM8.289502.root@pamxwww06-z01> References: <1038915531.233729.1318190280652.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <20111009175436.3HBM8.289502.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF2@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Removed Driveshaft and flange at differential after seeing movement at the driveshaft/diff. connection. I have about .007" runout in an egg shape at the pinion shaft. How much runout should there be? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 - From JPayne at ThorCon.net Sun Oct 9 16:46:48 2011 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 15:46:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Took apart, about 1/3 of the teeth from the ring gear are broken off Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun Oct 9 17:01:44 2011 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2011 15:01:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Next_Friday_funny?= Message-ID: <20111009230144.25323.qmail@hoster902.com> "We don't allow faster-than-light neutrinos in here," says the bartender. A neutrino walks into a bar. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 9 18:27:38 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 17:27:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Grace the little Healey that wouldn't quit Message-ID: <06D2BE9D-2233-4455-AC6D-0B6887CBCFAC@sbcglobal.net> Grace, the little Healey that could is a feature story in our local paper. While we are putting some new life into her. She will be getting her rebuilt engine installed on Monday in preparation of another showing at the Autumn Classic Car show in Morgan Hill on October 16 http://www.recordnet.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20111009/A_NEWS0803/11009 0312 David Nock British Car Specialists www.britishcarspecialists.com David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 9 18:32:00 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 08:32:00 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: Jonas - Are you serious?!!? Wow, that is the first time I've heard of that in a Healey. Must have been bone dry, or water got in there or something. Yikes... Alan On 10/10/11, Jonas Payne wrote: > Took apart, about 1/3 of the teeth from the ring gear are broken off > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 9 19:02:33 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:02:33 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Next Friday funny In-Reply-To: <20111009230144.25323.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20111009230144.25323.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <4E924429.4080709@bradakis.com> Steve B. Gerow wrote: > "We don't allow faster-than-light neutrinos in here," says the bartender. A neutrino walks into a bar. > > Odd. I was laughing before I read it... mjb. From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Oct 9 19:03:18 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2011 18:03:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <4E924456.9030007@comcast.net> Ouch. What on earth caused that? Bob On 10/9/2011 3:46 PM, Jonas Payne wrote: > Took apart, about 1/3 of the teeth from the ring gear are broken off > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mark at bradakis.com Sun Oct 9 19:21:39 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:21:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Next Friday funny In-Reply-To: <20111009230144.25323.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20111009230144.25323.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <4E9248A3.5090503@bradakis.com> My favorite physics joke has an officer pulling over a speeding motorist on the autobahn. Officer: Sir, do you know how fast you were going? Prof. Heisenberg: No, but I can tell you exactly where I am. Okay, what I meant to say was the I've made some progress on getting the archives working correctly, but not much. When I cut over to the new server, I may regenerate the archives from scratch, 20 plus years of email for dozens of lists - it will take the server a day or two to get that done! Maybe I'll try to figure out just how many messages have passed through Team.Net in all these years. mjb. From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Oct 9 20:38:26 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 13:38:26 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <983AB102-9CC7-4227-8580-C3C25776A5E2@gmail.com> Make sure you clean all of that crushed up metal out of the diff banjo, before you fit a new diff centre. And I'd be checking the wheel bearings too. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 10/10/2011, at 9:46 AM, "Jonas Payne" wrote: > Took apart, about 1/3 of the teeth from the ring gear are broken off > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun Oct 9 22:21:51 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 21:21:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Accelerator Pedal Cross Shaft In-Reply-To: <86979286B75544A69ACEF222EFC7128E@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <86979286B75544A69ACEF222EFC7128E@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: Guys I've attached some photos of an original bracket and screws from my 1955 BN1, LHD of course. The markings on the head and on the nut denote that they are UNF (10/32) versus either 2BA or 3/16 BSF. Also pictured are some stainless steel 10/32 oval head Phillips screws along with the properly sized SS nuts and washer. These are basically identical to the originals. These are available at any good hardware outlet, also most hardware stores have these same screws in steel with zinc plating with the same dimensions, if you want to go that route as Kees mentioned. Of course the stainless steel screws will work better in a wet environment, and in this application they are not seen being under the carpeting and on the underside of the car. Bead bast them first and they will look close to the originals. Cheers, Curt. On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 12:06 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > G'day > > > > Sydney in the spring and it's raining of course. > > > > I have just removed the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals from the BN3. > It's a normal RHD 100 arrangement with the brake/clutch pedals pivoting on > a > shaft, but the clutch is hydraulic. The accelerator pedal is also standard, > but I am curious about the fasteners holding the accelerator cross shaft to > the driver's floor. > > > > There are two brackets that the accelerator shaft passes through and each > of > these is attached to the floor by three brass straight slot screws, brass > washers, shakeproof washers and brass nuts. > > > > You wouldn't know what's original with my car, but I am wondering if the > brass fasteners are original on standard four-cylinder cars? > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Machinerys Handbook-British Unified Fastener Markings.pdf] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5443.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5434.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5435.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5436.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5438.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5440.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5441.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5442.JPG] From shop at justbrits.com Sun Oct 9 23:47:36 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 00:47:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <983AB102-9CC7-4227-8580-C3C25776A5E2@gmail.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <983AB102-9CC7-4227-8580-C3C25776A5E2@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E9286F8.4080707@justbrits.com> "checking" my foot, Chris [and Jonas].................. <> TRASH CAN. ALL the bearings !! And Jonas, take the 3rd member to a machine shop and have 'boiled' out. That many teeth = one HE|| of a lot of swarf ! ! ! ! Ed From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Mon Oct 10 00:31:41 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 08:31:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Next Friday funny In-Reply-To: <20111009230144.25323.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20111009230144.25323.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: Ouch. 2011/10/10 Steve B. Gerow > "We don't allow faster-than-light neutrinos in here," says the bartender. A > neutrino walks into a bar. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Oct 10 02:23:08 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:23:08 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <4E9286F8.4080707@justbrits.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <983AB102-9CC7-4227-8580-C3C25776A5E2@gmail.com> <4E9286F8.4080707@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <0A60DFB1-6579-4208-A399-C31492B8B856@gmail.com> I was just being polite Ed. Don't you "check" things before you chuck 'em in the bin? I always check a bearings part number, so I have a reference, before I chuck it. ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 10/10/2011, at 4:47 PM, "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: > "checking" my foot, Chris [and Jonas].................. > > <> > > TRASH CAN. ALL the bearings !! > > And Jonas, take the 3rd member to a machine shop > and have 'boiled' out. > > That many teeth = one HE|| of a lot of swarf ! ! ! ! > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Oct 10 06:57:51 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 06:57:51 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <983AB102-9CC7-4227-8580-C3C25776A5E2@gmail.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com><744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF4@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <983AB102-9CC7-4227-8580-C3C25776A5E2@gmail.com> Message-ID: <145C4A879544448CAE003EB53EB5E063@oscar> I recall that Mike Salter bent the crap out of his housing.. one should look to see if that's what caused the failure. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 8:38 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft Make sure you clean all of that crushed up metal out of the diff banjo, before you fit a new diff centre. And I'd be checking the wheel bearings too. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 10/10/2011, at 9:46 AM, "Jonas Payne" wrote: > Took apart, about 1/3 of the teeth from the ring gear are broken off > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 10 09:09:29 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 08:09:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Grace the little the could Message-ID: Grace, the little Healey that could is a feature story in our local paper. While we are putting some new life into her. She will be getting her rebuilt engine installed on Monday in preparation of another showing at the Autumn Classic Car show in Morgan Hill on October 16 http://www.recordnet.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=3D/20111009/ A_NEWS0803/110090312 David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Oct 9 14:15:47 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 13:15:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18BF0@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <000801cc86c0$3b40b140$b1c213c0$@ca> Are your shocks tight...a loose shock link will give a clonk when taking off or engaging the overdrive....check this before anything else. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 10:24 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Noisy rear end/driveshaft I have been experiencing a "clonk" when taking off from a start in reverse and 1st gear. When under load, I experience no noise, but when coasting, I'm getting a groaning/clicking sound from under the car. I jacked up the car, and the drive shaft is fine, but I can rotate the driveshaft back and forth about 5 degrees before I hear a click from inside the diff and it "engages". This seems excessive to me. But what should the tolerance be? Haven't checked the oil level yet..... Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From britcar1 at msn.com Mon Oct 10 13:20:41 2011 From: britcar1 at msn.com (DONALD N JOY) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 12:20:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Grace the little Healey that wouldn't quit In-Reply-To: <06D2BE9D-2233-4455-AC6D-0B6887CBCFAC@sbcglobal.net> References: <06D2BE9D-2233-4455-AC6D-0B6887CBCFAC@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Great story, David. Thanks for sharing it with the list. Don Joy '65 & '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: David Nock To: Healey List List Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 5:27 PM Subject: [Healeys] Grace the little Healey that wouldn't quit Grace, the little Healey that could is a feature story in our local paper. While we are putting some new life into her. She will be getting her rebuilt engine installed on Monday in preparation of another showing at the Autumn Classic Car show in Morgan Hill on October 16 http://www.recordnet.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20111009/A_NEWS0803/110 09 0312 David Nock British Car Specialists www.britishcarspecialists.com David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcar1 at msn.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 10 14:56:11 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 13:56:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft bolts Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111010135038.02046450@pop.att.yahoo.com> I have two different bolt sets for the drive shaft. One set is standard hex head. The other set is 1" long with a "T" style head meaning that it is flat on one side and it meant to set against the flat of the drive shaft u-joint to keep it from turning when tightened (it will not accept any type of wrench). Which end of the drive shaft is this bolt for; the OD end or the differential end? Thank you, John Spaur '62 MK II From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Oct 10 15:24:15 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 15:24:15 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Grace the little Healey that wouldn't quit In-Reply-To: References: <06D2BE9D-2233-4455-AC6D-0B6887CBCFAC@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <0AD2B26621F348E7B9A3FC3D52986EF4@oscar> ... well, the "A Texas gal drove a tractor-trailer rig to rescue him." Was from New Mexico, who never drove, but DID loan her SUV and covered trailer. Judy and I drove nearly to Amarillo from Albuquerque (all day out and back) and then worked till 3 in the morning on a temporary fix to the spun bearing, worn out oil pump, severely stuck/over advanced distributer that caused the burnt rings and melted piston lands and sundry other maladies. While it was a noble experiment and for a worthy cause, IMHO Mr. Nikas should have spent a little more time and money on his initial preparation. He told me they never checked the timing...!! Over advanced detonation- melted lands-low compression-low power-overheating-oil pressure loss-spun bearings-- a pretty simple progression. Throw that in with his picture of the speedo at 100MPH and I'd say he was damn lucky to find folks along the way to help him. the other Dave.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DONALD N JOY Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 1:21 PM To: Healey List List; David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grace the little Healey that wouldn't quit Great story, David. Thanks for sharing it with the list. Don Joy '65 & '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: David Nock To: Healey List List Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 5:27 PM Subject: [Healeys] Grace the little Healey that wouldn't quit Grace, the little Healey that could is a feature story in our local paper. While we are putting some new life into her. She will be getting her rebuilt engine installed on Monday in preparation of another showing at the Autumn Classic Car show in Morgan Hill on October 16 http://www.recordnet.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20111009/A_NEWS0803/110 09 0312 David Nock British Car Specialists www.britishcarspecialists.com David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcar1 at msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From BEAU2EVE at aol.com Mon Oct 10 17:13:34 2011 From: BEAU2EVE at aol.com (BEAU2EVE at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:13:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] car carrie's Thought's Message-ID: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> In a message dated 10/10/2011 7:11:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, BEAU2EVE at aol.com writes: Any one out there have any experience with a car carrier? I want to ship mine to Florida. Should I go open or closed. Beau From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 10 17:21:58 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 23:21:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft bolts In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111010135038.02046450@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1805376276.291446.1318288917145.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> The O/D end. There's a flat spot on the O/D casing which allows these to be used (you have to rotate the driveshaft 90deg to insert each bolt); a regular hex-head bolt will not go in here. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 1:56:11 PM Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft bolts I have two different bolt sets for the drive shaft. One set is standard hex head. The other set is 1" long with a "T" style head meaning that it is flat on one side and it meant to set against the flat of the drive shaft u-joint to keep it from turning when tightened (it will not accept any type of wrench). Which end of the drive shaft is this bolt for; the OD end or the differential end? Thank you, John Spaur '62 MK II _______________________________________________ From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 10 17:42:54 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 16:42:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft bolts In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111010135038.02046450@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111010135038.02046450@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The nuts and bolts are for the rear flange, The D headed bolts are for the transmission flange David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:56 PM, john spaur wrote: > I have two different bolt sets for the drive shaft. One set is > standard hex head. The other set is 1" long with a "T" style head > meaning that it is flat on one side and it meant to set against the > flat of the drive shaft u-joint to keep it from turning when > tightened (it will not accept any type of wrench). > > Which end of the drive shaft is this bolt for; the OD end or the > differential end? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 MK II > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From shop at justbrits.com Mon Oct 10 18:44:29 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] car carrie's Thought's In-Reply-To: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> References: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E93916D.1080703@justbrits.com> << Should I go open or closed. >> CLOSED, if you value your car Beau ! ! ! Er, IMVHO ! Passport or Intercity are only ones I would use, especially if any sort of long distance. Ed From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 10 19:31:13 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 09:31:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] car carrie's Thought's In-Reply-To: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> References: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> Message-ID: Beau - I was introduced to a great service called uship.com which aligns independent brokers and shippers on jobs. Specify what you want & when and you will get multiple bids. Pick the lowest one with the best ratings. I would always prefer to go with enclosed transport for a convertible, that will probably add 500 bucks to the price. Alan On 10/11/11, BEAU2EVE at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/10/2011 7:11:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > BEAU2EVE at aol.com writes: > > Any one out there have any experience with a car carrier? I want to ship > mine to Florida. Should I go open or closed. Beau > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From rpschauss at gmail.com Mon Oct 10 20:21:21 2011 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:21:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft bolts In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111010135038.02046450@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4e93a824.016be00a.4259.ffffd2f1@mx.google.com> The "T" style bolts go on the overdrive end of the drive shaft. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 4:56 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft bolts > > I have two different bolt sets for the drive shaft. One set is > standard hex head. The other set is 1" long with a "T" style head > meaning that it is flat on one side and it meant to set against the > flat of the drive shaft u-joint to keep it from turning when > tightened (it will not accept any type of wrench). > > Which end of the drive shaft is this bolt for; the OD end or the > differential end? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 MK II > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss at gmail.com From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 10 21:32:42 2011 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 20:32:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] car carrie's Thought's In-Reply-To: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> References: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> Message-ID: I have used Dependable Auto Shippers to move several cars from NorCal to Kentucky. (DAS) No issues with them. No financial interest etc.Richard of KYBN7 #440 > From: BEAU2EVE at aol.com > Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:13:34 -0400 > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] car carrie's Thought's > > In a message dated 10/10/2011 7:11:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > BEAU2EVE at aol.com writes: > > Any one out there have any experience with a car carrier? I want to ship > mine to Florida. Should I go open or closed. Beau > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 10 22:23:05 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 21:23:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft bolts In-Reply-To: <4e93a824.016be00a.4259.ffffd2f1@mx.google.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111010135038.02046450@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4e93a824.016be00a.4259.ffffd2f1@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111010212132.020760d8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Hey... I remember the method now. It has been a long time since I took it apart. Many thanks to everyone that responded! John At 10:21 PM 10/10/2011 -0400, Peter Schauss wrote: >The "T" style bolts go on the overdrive end of the drive shaft. > >Peter Schauss >1963 BJ7 >1980 MGB From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Mon Oct 10 23:28:40 2011 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 15:28:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture Message-ID: Hi All On my BT7 when I do a tune up the plugs always appear sooty indicating it is running rich However when I clean the plugs clean and adjust the points Remove the three air cleaners balance the carbs adjust the mixture screw lift the piston with raising pin the engine wants to stall. The car drive good engine perform as expected. However when on a trailing throttle down steep hill I get a burbling through toe exhaust Which would indicate to me that the mixture is about right But I cannot explain the sooty plugs. The engine does not burn or use oil any suggestions would be appreciated From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 00:36:22 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:36:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I set my BN4 with a wide band oxigen sensor, where I could track the mixture under all driving conditons. I found that my engine would only run good on rich mixture. Much richer than the stochiometric ratio. I tried everithing to adjust the mixture weaker like new needles, springs, different fuel levels, ignition timing etc, with no use. My carbs are completely rebuilt units. I concluded with a richer mixture, and the car is running fine with smooth idle and instant rev pickup. Soo I had to accept this richer mixture as appropriet. Sparks look normal after a run, but if I let it idle for longer, they get darker. Gergo 2011/10/11 Keith Bailey > Hi All > On my BT7 when I do a tune up the plugs always appear sooty > indicating it is running rich > However when I clean the plugs clean and adjust the points > Remove > the three air cleaners > balance the carbs adjust the mixture screw lift the piston with > raising pin the engine wants to stall. > The car drive good engine perform as expected. However when on a > trailing throttle down steep hill > I get a burbling through toe exhaust Which would indicate to me > that the mixture is about right > But I cannot explain the sooty plugs. The engine does not burn > or > use oil any suggestions would > be appreciated > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 01:53:10 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 15:53:10 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I find the settings as instructed by the manual to be a hair rich and often will spend a lot of time on mixture. Usually I set it per manual then back off mixture about a quarter turn and I get a leaner cleaner burn without any loss in power. Also, hotter plugs can help. Alan On 10/11/11, Keith Bailey wrote: > Hi All > On my BT7 when I do a tune up the plugs always appear sooty > indicating it is running rich > However when I clean the plugs clean and adjust the points > Remove > the three air cleaners > balance the carbs adjust the mixture screw lift the piston with > raising pin the engine wants to stall. > The car drive good engine perform as expected. However when on a > trailing throttle down steep hill > I get a burbling through toe exhaust Which would indicate to me > that the mixture is about right > But I cannot explain the sooty plugs. The engine does not burn > or > use oil any suggestions would > be appreciated > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Tue Oct 11 01:57:07 2011 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 17:57:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture Message-ID: <5CEB0817ED8447E09A2CB6199F361F00@KeithDell> Hi All The Plugs are NKGR BPR 5ES Regards Keith From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 02:14:12 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 16:14:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I should say check your needles for wear and make sure you have the right needles and springs before starting.... On 10/11/11, Keith Bailey wrote: > Hi All > On my BT7 when I do a tune up the plugs always appear sooty > indicating it is running rich > However when I clean the plugs clean and adjust the points > Remove > the three air cleaners > balance the carbs adjust the mixture screw lift the piston with > raising pin the engine wants to stall. > The car drive good engine perform as expected. However when on a > trailing throttle down steep hill > I get a burbling through toe exhaust Which would indicate to me > that the mixture is about right > But I cannot explain the sooty plugs. The engine does not burn > or > use oil any suggestions would > be appreciated > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Oct 11 02:30:25 2011 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 18:30:25 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Keith With unleaded fuel, plug colour isn't the good indicator of mixture it was with leaded fuel. If the carb tune is OK (lift the piston 1/32", if engine speeds up it's rich, if it wants to stall it's weak, if it speeds up momentarily & then settles back it's OK) the don't worry about it. My advice is give it a good run at speed on the highway eg to the Pierce's this weekend. Better still, let me loose in it at Lakeside again! Cheers Peter -----Original Message----- From: Keith Bailey Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 3:28 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture Hi All On my BT7 when I do a tune up the plugs always appear sooty indicating it is running rich However when I clean the plugs clean and adjust the points Remove the three air cleaners balance the carbs adjust the mixture screw lift the piston with raising pin the engine wants to stall. The car drive good engine perform as expected. However when on a trailing throttle down steep hill I get a burbling through toe exhaust Which would indicate to me that the mixture is about right But I cannot explain the sooty plugs. The engine does not burn or use oil any suggestions would be appreciated From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 02:34:45 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 16:34:45 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gergo - Your motor is fresh off a rebuild, correct? I would expect settings to change slightly as the rings bed in, you should be able to set leaner with time. Regards, Alan On 10/11/11, Austin Healey wrote: > I set my BN4 with a wide band oxigen sensor, where I could track the mixture > under all driving conditons. I found that my engine would only run good on > rich mixture. Much richer than the stochiometric ratio. I tried everithing > to adjust the mixture weaker like new needles, springs, different fuel > levels, ignition timing etc, with no use. My carbs are completely rebuilt > units. I concluded with a richer mixture, and the car is running fine with > smooth idle and instant rev pickup. Soo I had to accept this richer mixture > as appropriet. > Sparks look normal after a run, but if I let it idle for longer, they get > darker. > > Gergo > > 2011/10/11 Keith Bailey > >> Hi All >> On my BT7 when I do a tune up the plugs always appear sooty >> indicating it is running rich >> However when I clean the plugs clean and adjust the points >> Remove >> the three air cleaners >> balance the carbs adjust the mixture screw lift the piston >> with >> raising pin the engine wants to stall. >> The car drive good engine perform as expected. However when on >> a >> trailing throttle down steep hill >> I get a burbling through toe exhaust Which would indicate to me >> that the mixture is about right >> But I cannot explain the sooty plugs. The engine does not burn >> or >> use oil any suggestions would >> be appreciated >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 04:58:33 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 12:58:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The engine is fairly fresh, now with about 700miles since the rebuild. The engine is running nice on lambda 0.9 in the whole range. On hard acceleration the mixture is 0.8-0.85. The engine is still sensitive on the mixture. It is fast to backfire and run rough if the choke is pushed in too soon, especialy on colder days. Being honest I never had engines which needed significantly weaker mixture after running in, but we will see. If I ever build another Healey, I will check and report on it. Gergo 2011/10/11 Alan Seigrist > Gergo - > > Your motor is fresh off a rebuild, correct? I would expect settings > to change slightly as the rings bed in, you should be able to set > leaner with time. > > Regards, > > Alan > > On 10/11/11, Austin Healey wrote: > > I set my BN4 with a wide band oxigen sensor, where I could track the > mixture > > under all driving conditons. I found that my engine would only run good > on > > rich mixture. Much richer than the stochiometric ratio. I tried > everithing > > to adjust the mixture weaker like new needles, springs, different fuel > > levels, ignition timing etc, with no use. My carbs are completely rebuilt > > units. I concluded with a richer mixture, and the car is running fine > with > > smooth idle and instant rev pickup. Soo I had to accept this richer > mixture > > as appropriet. > > Sparks look normal after a run, but if I let it idle for longer, they get > > darker. > > > > Gergo > > > > 2011/10/11 Keith Bailey > > > >> Hi All > >> On my BT7 when I do a tune up the plugs always appear sooty > >> indicating it is running rich > >> However when I clean the plugs clean and adjust the points > >> Remove > >> the three air cleaners > >> balance the carbs adjust the mixture screw lift the piston > >> with > >> raising pin the engine wants to stall. > >> The car drive good engine perform as expected. However when > on > >> a > >> trailing throttle down steep hill > >> I get a burbling through toe exhaust Which would indicate to > me > >> that the mixture is about right > >> But I cannot explain the sooty plugs. The engine does not > burn > >> or > >> use oil any suggestions would > >> be appreciated > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Oct 11 07:10:05 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 07:10:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1D5CCA4C1DB54F1599B3F83EBE072F1B@oscar> I love you guys.. You keep me in business. These are not new engines with engine management systems to automatically adjust for everything from temperature, air flow, vacuum, ignition timing to altitude. They were designed to run decently under most conditions that might be experienced. The engines were/should be run on the rich side, certainly no less than 3% hydrocarbon. The then leaded fuel being used for valve lubrication and cooling the valves, besides the obvious octane boost too. The needles in the SU's rising and falling based on vacuum demands and the distributer working by simple mechanical means to meet general conditions. Face it, they were dirty running by any description. If you try to run them lean it will lead to problems down the road. Get used to the fact that changing spark plugs was a necessary routine chore. There are no separate circuits in an SU for idle or WOT (wide open throttle). One can spend hours, no days running the car at 70MPH coasting to a stop, pulling the plugs to examine them for mixture then installing a different needle taper to adjust the results or one can follow the factory specifications and be secure in the knowledge that you have a properly adjusted engine that meets most needs. Just saying.. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 07:16:51 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 00:16:51 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture Message-ID: <54179622-501A-42DC-94A1-2603FF6AD3B3@gmail.com> Hey Keith, That's the right plug for a standard engine, according to this http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/champion-un12y.html Is your engine standard? However, it doesn't sound right to me. Back in my Sprite days, we ran Champion N9Y in a road car, and N7Y in a modified road car. I'm pretty sure a higher number is colder in NGK. My BJ8 runs NGK racing B8EGV on the road, as I said earlier, and B85EGV on a full throttle circuit. Ie yours are 5, mine are 8. You are running a very hot plug. If it has soot, then either it's running is too rich; you have some crap fuel; or the engine is no where near operating temperature. Give it a run on a freeway and then do a plug cut. ie check the plug colour when you switch off after several minutes at over 4,000 rpm. I certainly wouldn't drive a car hard (over 5,000 rpm) for any sustained period of time (more than a few minutes) on a plug that hot. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 11/10/2011, at 6:57 PM, "Keith Bailey" wrote: > Hi All > The Plugs are NKGR BPR 5ES > Regards Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 11 07:19:32 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 09:19:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Difference between 3000 tops Message-ID: <000c01cc8818$6b3e4f20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Just came from the archives and am swimming with good top info but could not find this exact answer. I read where there are 3 different types of top bows for the 100/6 and 3000 cars. How many different tops were there for the 4 seater cars in this time spread. Were the tops the same or did they also use 3 different size tops. I have been going back and forth with a top company for a while and the tops they send are too short from side to side. I can get one turn button by the door to fasten but there is no way to pull this top down far enough on the other side of the car to get the other turn button to latch. And I haven't even opened up all the legs of the bow yet. I am installing the fasteners myself and the one turn button by the passenger door is all I have done so far. Yes, I set the top out in the sun for awhile. My car is a 60 3000 bt7 with the 13/16 " legged bow. I also have a Robbins top that I will size up on the car today, but man that rear window is HUGE. Not really a good look IMHO. MARK From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Oct 11 07:29:27 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 07:29:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture References: Message-ID: Clarification: that's 3% at the tail pipe.. frogeye at porterscustom.com -----Original Message----- From: David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 7:10 AM To: 'Austin Healey'; 'Alan Seigrist' Cc: 'Healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture I love you guys.. You keep me in business. These are not new engines with engine management systems to automatically adjust for everything from temperature, air flow, vacuum, ignition timing to altitude. They were designed to run decently under most conditions that might be experienced. The engines were/should be run on the rich side, certainly no less than 3% hydrocarbon. The then leaded fuel being used for valve lubrication and cooling the valves, besides the obvious octane boost too. The needles in the SU's rising and falling based on vacuum demands and the distributer working by simple mechanical means to meet general conditions. Face it, they were dirty running by any description. If you try to run them lean it will lead to problems down the road. Get used to the fact that changing spark plugs was a necessary routine chore. There are no separate circuits in an SU for idle or WOT (wide open throttle). One can spend hours, no days running the car at 70MPH coasting to a stop, pulling the plugs to examine them for mixture then installing a different needle taper to adjust the results or one can follow the factory specifications and be secure in the knowledge that you have a properly adjusted engine that meets most needs. Just saying.. dave From linwoodrose at mac.com Tue Oct 11 08:59:32 2011 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:59:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Mixture In-Reply-To: <1D5CCA4C1DB54F1599B3F83EBE072F1B@oscar> References: <1D5CCA4C1DB54F1599B3F83EBE072F1B@oscar> Message-ID: <737D7A51-4231-4F53-BCBB-C888504AAFE3@mac.com> Dave, So true, so true! I used to be one of those who said "come on, can't I lean this out a little more?, Can't I get rid of that smell of unburned fuel?" "Oh yeah, let's try this other set of needles." Yes, you can improve things - the car should be in good tune, but I have concluded the hard way that you are EXACTLY RIGHT. It is what it is. So now I just enjoy it, it performs well and it puts a smile on my face. Lin Lin Rose 1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body. 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have it! 1964 Jag MKII - current project On Oct 11, 2011, at 9:10 AM, David Porter wrote: > I love you guys.. You keep me in business. > These are not new engines with engine management systems to automatically > adjust for everything from temperature, air flow, vacuum, ignition timing to > altitude. They were designed to run decently under most conditions that > might be experienced. The engines were/should be run on the rich side, > certainly no less than 3% hydrocarbon. The then leaded fuel being used for > valve lubrication and cooling the valves, besides the obvious octane boost > too. > The needles in the SU's rising and falling based on vacuum demands and the > distributer working by simple mechanical means to meet general conditions. > Face it, they were dirty running by any description. If you try to run them > lean it will lead to problems down the road. Get used to the fact that > changing spark plugs was a necessary routine chore. There are no separate > circuits in an SU for idle or WOT (wide open throttle). One can spend hours, > no days running the car at 70MPH coasting to a stop, pulling the plugs to > examine them for mixture then installing a different needle taper to adjust > the results or one can follow the factory specifications and be secure in > the knowledge that you have a properly adjusted engine that meets most > needs. > Just saying.. > dave > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com From dan at warner-associates.com Tue Oct 11 09:44:29 2011 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:44:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Difference between 3000 tops In-Reply-To: <000c01cc8818$6b3e4f20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000c01cc8818$6b3e4f20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Mark: My understanding was that Robbins had corrected the large window issue and the tops they now offer have the proper gray color on the inside surface? Anyone recently order a BJ8 top from Robbins and have a report? Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 8:20 AM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Difference between 3000 tops Just came from the archives and am swimming with good top info but could not find this exact answer. I read where there are 3 different types of top bows for the 100/6 and 3000 cars. How many different tops were there for the 4 seater cars in this time spread. Were the tops the same or did they also use 3 different size tops. I have been going back and forth with a top company for a while and the tops they send are too short from side to side. I can get one turn button by the door to fasten but there is no way to pull this top down far enough on the other side of the car to get the other turn button to latch. And I haven't even opened up all the legs of the bow yet. I am installing the fasteners myself and the one turn button by the passenger door is all I have done so far. Yes, I set the top out in the sun for awhile. My car is a 60 3000 bt7 with the 13/16 " legged bow. I also have a Robbins top that I will size up on the car today, but man that rear window is HUGE. Not really a good look IMHO. MARK _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Tue Oct 11 10:11:33 2011 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 09:11:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] car carrie's Thought's References: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> <4E93916D.1080703@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <63908EAB7EDD421F8974A61CE2A02CF1@FRED> I shipped a freshly restored BN7 from Port Townsend, WA to Park City, Utah via Passport. The driver called and gave me updates on where he was and when he would arrive in Port Townsend. I was very impressed with how carefully the driver loaded the car and how carefully he tied it down. I certainly recommend Passport. John Snyder > << Should I go open or closed. >> > > CLOSED, if you value your car Beau ! ! ! Er, IMVHO ! > > Passport or Intercity are only ones I would use, especially > if any sort of long distance. > > Ed From jmcd206 at msn.com Tue Oct 11 10:32:21 2011 From: jmcd206 at msn.com (Jim McDermott) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 09:32:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] MG Engine for Sale Message-ID: Guys I got a call from a local guy that has an MG engine for sale. I know, this is the Healey list, but some of you are into other British Cars so: For Sale 1275 cc high compression MG engine with close ratio gearbox and oil cooler #12CD DA-H-13106 Make an offer! Mike Aarhaus Seattle, WA cell-206-935-2432 aarhaus at comcast.net ThanksJim McDermott100-Six BN4 From mikecallison at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 11:00:05 2011 From: mikecallison at gmail.com (Mike Callison) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 13:00:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Miss Fire Message-ID: Fellow Listers I am helping a fellow Healey owner (BT7) with an issue. I need your thoughts. After the car has been running for about fifteen minutes, it has a very significant hesitation. It is so severe that it chances the car to jerk violently. I first eliminated a fuel supply problem. Both original and backup fuel pumps are working correctly. I then turned to electrical. There is no obvious arching around the plug wires, coil or distributor. I need your thoughts on todays puzzler. Thanks Mike BJ8 From neilandcustom at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 11:48:04 2011 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 12:48:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Adjustable shocks Message-ID: <00d301cc883d$ef88e310$ce9aa930$@com> List, Peter Caldwell has written a highly interesting and detailed article about the fully adjustable Armstrong shocks he developed and produces for the many different cars that use Armstrongs. These are of similar concept to the original Armstrong 22s that are quite rare and hard to find these days. He markets the new shocks through his company, World Wide Imports of Madison. Here is the link to the article: http://www.sebringsprite.com/shockabsorbers.html Best, Neil Anderson N. Illinois BT7 AN5 Sebring project From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Oct 11 12:25:56 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 14:25:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Difference between 3000 tops In-Reply-To: References: <000c01cc8818$6b3e4f20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <000501cc8843$383f9860$a8bec920$@net> Dan and Mark, you guys are confusing the issue here. Mark is asking for feedback about the BT7 tops and Dan is at the same time asking about the BJ8 convertible tops. I ordered a top for a tricarb BT7 through my local Moss rep in August. He told me he "wouldn't take any chances with Moss" and ordered direct from Robbins. It was to be black Everflex with the light grey inside surface and we repeatedly asked that it be their "correct to original" pattern in every way and they assured us it was. The top I received was excellent in fit, seam placement, darts and every other detail except.....the window is still huge. It is a full 3" taller and 2" wider than the original and at that point (about 7 weeks ago) that's what they are offering. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist Sent: 2011-10-11 11:44 To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Difference between 3000 tops Mark: My understanding was that Robbins had corrected the large window issue and the tops they now offer have the proper gray color on the inside surface? Anyone recently order a BJ8 top from Robbins and have a report? Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 8:20 AM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Difference between 3000 tops Just came from the archives and am swimming with good top info but could not find this exact answer. I read where there are 3 different types of top bows for the 100/6 and 3000 cars. How many different tops were there for the 4 seater cars in this time spread. Were the tops the same or did they also use 3 different size tops. I have been going back and forth with a top company for a while and the tops they send are too short from side to side. I can get one turn button by the door to fasten but there is no way to pull this top down far enough on the other side of the car to get the other turn button to latch. And I haven't even opened up all the legs of the bow yet. I am installing the fasteners myself and the one turn button by the passenger door is all I have done so far. Yes, I set the top out in the sun for awhile. My car is a 60 3000 bt7 with the 13/16 " legged bow. I also have a Robbins top that I will size up on the car today, but man that rear window is HUGE. Not really a good look IMHO. MARK _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 11 12:34:32 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 11:34:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] MG Engine for Sale In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1318358072.6498.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> That would be a Midget engine for those interested. Mark --- On Tue, 10/11/11, Jim McDermott wrote: From: Jim McDermott Subject: [Healeys] MG Engine for Sale To: "Austin_Healey Healey_Net" Date: Tuesday, October 11, 2011, 12:32 PM Guys I got a call from a local guy that has an MG engine for sale. I know, this is the Healey list, but some of you are into other British Cars so: For Sale 1275 cc high compression MG engine with close ratio gearbox and oil cooler #12CD DA-H-13106 Make an offer! Mike Aarhaus Seattle, WA cell-206-935-2432 aarhaus at comcast.net ThanksJim McDermott100-Six BN4 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From Editorgary at aol.com Tue Oct 11 15:12:32 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 17:12:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Shipping Message-ID: <23b1d.4fb230fe.3bc60b40@aol.com> If I were shipping a car worth any more than $5,000, I would only ship it with one of the skilled and experienced mainline classic car shippers. When you nickle and dime something this valuable, the risk is that you wind up with a second-rate rig that isn't properly insured, driving by a person who isn't properly licensed and trained. Ship with Passport, Interstate, or one of the others, and you know you're getting someone who is used to dealing competently with million dollar cars, owns his (or their -- most are husband and wife teams) rig, and does nothing but ship cars. A little known fact is that the classic car hauler drivers are the best-paid in the business, because they've got to combine the skills of a first-class mechanic with those of a proper high-class butler to manage to deal with the cars and the people they work with all the time. My own money would be on Passport, because I've met their owner, their general manager, and several of their driver teams. It's an independent company, owned by a collector in St. Louis, with the general manager owning a minority share in the company. Walk into their offices in suburban St. Louis and you'll see a large video monitor that shows on a real-time GPS basis, the location of every one of their rigs at any given moment. These folks are real professionals at what they do. Sure, they charge standard market rates, but like the cars they haul, no excuses are acceptable. G. From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 11 18:38:59 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 20:38:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Measurement needed Message-ID: <000d01cc8877$5585a750$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Could someone send me the measurement of the top frame "main bow" to the top of the trany tunnel. My top frame may be standing a bit too tall . My car is a 60 BT7 with the 13/16 inch tube frame. Mark From phoenix722 at comcast.net Tue Oct 11 19:40:10 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 18:40:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] shipping cars Message-ID: <081553A2BFB04E98A9706837FA34D7BB@Mike> Something to consider--how often do you ship a car? It's not like you save a few bucks every other month; it's usually a one-time thing. Well worth doing it right. Your car will know if you don't treat it right! Mike BN2 From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 23:58:28 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:58:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] MG Engine for Sale In-Reply-To: <1318358072.6498.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1318358072.6498.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Same as the MkIV Sprite. Gergo 2011/10/11 mark lapierre > That would be a Midget engine for those interested. > > Mark > > --- On Tue, 10/11/11, Jim McDermott wrote: > > > From: Jim McDermott > Subject: [Healeys] MG Engine for Sale > To: "Austin_Healey Healey_Net" > Date: Tuesday, October 11, 2011, 12:32 PM > > > Guys I got a call from a local guy that has an MG engine for sale. I know, > this is the Healey list, but some of you are into other British Cars so: > > For Sale 1275 cc high compression MG engine with > close ratio gearbox > > and oil cooler > > #12CD DA-H-13106 > > Make an offer! > > > > Mike Aarhaus > > Seattle, WA > > cell-206-935-2432 > > aarhaus at comcast.net ThanksJim McDermott100-Six BN4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 12 10:50:21 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:50:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission bump clearance Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111012094750.020b97d8@pop.att.yahoo.com> There is a rubber bump between the transmission mounts. The parts book shows a shim "as needed". Should the bump be shimmed to sit against the frame or should a little clearance be left. It appears that there will be less than 1/8" between the bump and frame if I leave it un-shimmed. Thank you, John 62 BT7 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Oct 12 11:59:59 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 13:59:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More web site updates Message-ID: <001b01cc8908$c282afb0$47880f10$@verizon.net> Added within the past 10 days or so: 1. Conversion chart between Whitworth, BSF, etc. sockets. On the Technical page, Miscellaneous section. 2. Video and still photos of the 2011 "Brits on the Beach" show on the Video Page. Please excuse the misstatement by yours truly. 3. An article on Fully Adjustable Armstrong Shocks on the Technical page, Suspension Section. 4. Link on the Technical page, Ignition section to Green Spark Plug Company, Cheshire, England, whose site contains lots of technical articles on spark plugs. Very interesting stuff. Also listed on the Parts page, Major Vendors section as they sell ignition parts, fuel pumps and a lot of other "stuff" 5. Thermostat Check Device. Check your thermostat without taking it out of the car. Technical page, Engine section. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From csooch1 at aol.com Wed Oct 12 13:24:41 2011 From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 14:24:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission bump clearance In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111012094750.020b97d8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111012094750.020b97d8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <27703221-1BB6-4AF8-AE2F-868169A9CCC7@aol.com> My opinion is to shim as needed to achieve the proper driveshaft to opinion angle. Cheers, Chris BJ8 Sent from my iPhone On Oct 12, 2011, at 11:50 AM, john spaur wrote: > There is a rubber bump between the transmission mounts. The parts book shows a shim "as needed". Should the bump be shimmed to sit against the frame or should a little clearance be left. It appears that there will be less than 1/8" between the bump and frame if I leave it un-shimmed. > > Thank you, > John > 62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/csooch1 at aol.com From erysso at cfl.rr.com Wed Oct 12 14:29:44 2011 From: erysso at cfl.rr.com (Ernest Rysso) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:29:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trophy cars Message-ID: Hi, All Time to start cleaning out. Lost the trophies but saved the tops. Have four(4) A-H 3000's in a silver color and two (2) Scarab/Testa Rosa types in gold. Contact me off list if your interested. Ernie Rysso erysso at cfl.rr.com ex-BN2/BN7/AN5 From jarowe at westnet.com.au Wed Oct 12 19:10:29 2011 From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 21:10:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bill Pollack Message-ID: Bill Pollack - could you contact me off list please. regards John Rowe From fiat500f at aol.com Wed Oct 12 23:49:25 2011 From: fiat500f at aol.com (Paul Barnes) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 01:49:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! Message-ID: Today, while climbing through a OLD junkyard, I found a Austin Healey! I don't know if it was a 100-6 or a 3000 as quite a bit of it was gone, but I can say that it definitely was not a 100-4, a BJ8, and it was a four seater. It has four wheel drum brakes and wire wheels. It must have been there a long time. The front shroud is gone, as are the engine and gearbox. The rear shroud is there as are the rear fenders, rear axle and diff., front suspension, some interior bits. ID plates are gone. It was just so unexpected to see a Healey in a junkyard these days! Well, a big Healey I mean. There are like 6-7 Bugeyes in the same yard. - Paul B. From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Oct 13 01:12:35 2011 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 09:12:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] WG: More web site updates Message-ID: Dear John, I think there is again a need to tell you, you do a phantastic job with your web site. Its of extreme value what you do and its for free for all of us!!! Many thanks, go on. Josef Eckert Konigswinter / Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von John Sims Gesendet: Mittwoch, 12. Oktober 2011 20:00 An: Healey List Betreff: [Healeys] More web site updates Added within the past 10 days or so: 1. Conversion chart between Whitworth, BSF, etc. sockets. On the Technical page, Miscellaneous section. 2. Video and still photos of the 2011 "Brits on the Beach" show on the Video Page. Please excuse the misstatement by yours truly. 3. An article on Fully Adjustable Armstrong Shocks on the Technical page, Suspension Section. 4. Link on the Technical page, Ignition section to Green Spark Plug Company, Cheshire, England, whose site contains lots of technical articles on spark plugs. Very interesting stuff. Also listed on the Parts page, Major Vendors section as they sell ignition parts, fuel pumps and a lot of other "stuff" 5. Thermostat Check Device. Check your thermostat without taking it out of the car. Technical page, Engine section. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ From shop at justbrits.com Thu Oct 13 07:28:24 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 08:28:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E96E778.8000903@justbrits.com> WHERE is the 'yard', Paul ?!?!?!? Ed From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 13 08:16:34 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 07:16:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Help Needed for BT7 Top Message-ID: <1318515394.47004.YahooMailClassic@web180112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Sorry to repost this but I got skunked with my first post. Could someone that has the BT7 soft top arrangement on their car please contact me for a simple measurement. I won't bore the list with the details here. You can have the top installed or just have the top frame in place with no top installed, to get this measurement. Thanks in advance, Mark From m.brouillette at comcast.net Thu Oct 13 09:53:05 2011 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 15:53:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! In-Reply-To: <4E96E778.8000903@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <1432563771.608408.1318521185127.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Question I was curious about too. Sounds like a 100-6 from the description. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: "Paul Barnes" Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:28:24 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! WHERE is the 'yard', Paul ?!?!?!? Ed From pvoris at q.com Thu Oct 13 16:07:36 2011 From: pvoris at q.com (pvoris at q.com) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 18:07:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wow Message-ID: <630624399.128647.1318543656505.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> Sure sounds like a BN4 to me. Peter Las Cruces NM 56 BN2 51 Riley RMB From mark at bradakis.com Thu Oct 13 19:11:43 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 19:11:43 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net service Message-ID: <20111014011143.A03062E0EE@bradakis.com> Team.Net is going away, I'm shutting it off tomorrow morning. Okay, relax, it is only temporary. The local power company will be doing some maintenence and repairs in the area friday, October 14th. Rather than risk frying some crucial piece of hardware due to random power flucuations I'll be shutting down the servers in the morning before I go to work. I'll be bringing them back up friday evening when the power line work is done. So the email lists, amazingly outdated web pages, forums and such will be down for most of the day. All services should be back on the air late friday, so be patient. Too bad I'm not ready to cut over to the new server, this would be a good time to do so. Oh well, so it goes. Thank you for your patience. mjb. From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Oct 13 19:08:43 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 18:08:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: 4 seats, drum brakes = bn4 Or BN3! Sent from my iPhone, so autocorrects may have inserted some odd words. On Oct 12, 2011, at 10:49 PM, "Paul Barnes" wrote: > Today, while climbing through a OLD junkyard, I found a Austin Healey! I > don't know if it was a 100-6 or a 3000 as quite a bit of it was gone, but I > can say that it definitely was not a 100-4, a BJ8, and it was a four seater. > It has four wheel drum brakes and wire wheels. It must have been there a > long time. The front shroud is gone, as are the engine and gearbox. The rear > shroud is there as are the rear fenders, rear axle and diff., front > suspension, some interior bits. ID plates are gone. It was just so > unexpected to see a Healey in a junkyard these days! Well, a big Healey I > mean. There are like 6-7 Bugeyes in the same yard. > > - Paul B. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Oct 13 19:21:43 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 21:21:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wow In-Reply-To: <630624399.128647.1318543656505.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> References: <630624399.128647.1318543656505.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: <000801cc8a0f$a2909a70$e7b1cf50$@net> What are you all talking about? Did I miss one? rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pvoris at q.com Sent: 2011-10-13 6:08 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow Sure sounds like a BN4 to me. Peter Las Cruces NM 56 BN2 51 Riley RMB _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From rd_parker at juno.com Thu Oct 13 19:43:21 2011 From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 18:43:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Need BN1 Cylinder Head. Message-ID: <20111013.184409.989.1835070@mailpop09.vgs.untd.com> Dear Listers, A friend of mine who owns a 1955 BN1 needs a replacement cylinder head, which I understand is a four cylinder, as his head is no longer serviceable. Does anyone out there have a spare one that they are willing to part with? He has told me that he would also be interested in an aluminum replacement. Or, can anyone refer me to a reputable parts house, etc? His budget is not unlimited, but he is wiling to pay a fair price, whatever that is. Thank you in advance for your help. Regards, Bob P. (1961 BT7). Bellflower, Ca. ____________________________________________________________ 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25 Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e9793f0bb0a3a57986st05vuc From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Thu Oct 13 20:44:56 2011 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 19:44:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] route help Message-ID: any one live on Vancouver island BC? please contact me off list. thanks ron From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 13 22:50:40 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 21:50:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> So... I need to do a compression test. The engine is out of the healey sitting on a dolly. I plan on running jumper cables from another car to get the juice to turn the engine over. How should I switch the power on and off. I need a momentary switch. Can I take the solenoid out of the healey and use it? Are there any issues that I should look out for? Does anyone have another idea? Thank you, John Spaur San Jose, CA From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Oct 13 23:34:19 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 16:34:19 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2D580209C7274D83B60C052384C5CFA4@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Eric I just ran down to the garage and the only four-seater BN3 is still there. However it did spend some time in a junkyard during the late 1950s and perhaps Paul B. slipped through a time portal. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins Sent: Friday, 14 October 2011 12:09 PM To: Paul Barnes Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! 4 seats, drum brakes = bn4 Or BN3! Sent from my iPhone, so autocorrects may have inserted some odd words. On Oct 12, 2011, at 10:49 PM, "Paul Barnes" wrote: > Today, while climbing through a OLD junkyard, I found a Austin Healey! I > don't know if it was a 100-6 or a 3000 as quite a bit of it was gone, but I > can say that it definitely was not a 100-4, a BJ8, and it was a four seater. > It has four wheel drum brakes and wire wheels. It must have been there a > long time. The front shroud is gone, as are the engine and gearbox. The rear > shroud is there as are the rear fenders, rear axle and diff., front > suspension, some interior bits. ID plates are gone. It was just so > unexpected to see a Healey in a junkyard these days! Well, a big Healey I > mean. There are like 6-7 Bugeyes in the same yard. > > - Paul B. From fiat500f at aol.com Thu Oct 13 23:41:49 2011 From: fiat500f at aol.com (Paul Barnes) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 01:41:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] "Wow" Healey yard.. Message-ID: Ha! Yeah, I HATE when folks mention a car in a junkyard somewhere, and they don't say where, and then I went and did it myself! Oops, sorry! The junkyard is called Friendship Used Auto Parts and it's located in Tabernacle New Jersey. The address is: Friendship Used Auto Parts 58 New Road Tabernacle, NJ., 08088 Tel: 1-609-268-0365 You know how modern auto part "recycling centers" here in the US (and elsewhere, I assume) are getting all paranoid about lawsuits, etc.? So now, it's like you go to the front desk, tell them what you want, and they get it off their shelf from a car that they dismantled earlier? Well, Friendship is completely NOT like this. It's the way junkyards USED to be. There are thousands of cars in no particular order. There are cars there made in the 1920's all the way up to today. The place has been there a long time. They have a sign somewhere in there, I think on the office, that reads, "We never throw anything away", and I believe it. I've been there a bunch of times and EVERY time I've gone there, I've found another British car of some type. Last time was the Healey and a MG Magnette ZA. I must have walked past the MG fifty times and never "saw" it before. There are just so many car that it's a bit of a visual overload situation. There's A LOT of British cars in there, I'd guess about 75-80. Odd stuff (for an American) junkyard too, like three MGA's (ones a coupe), a Rover 2000, a late 50's Ford Anglia, an Austin Taxi (still with it's British plates), and more normal stuff, MGB's, Midgets, TR3's/4's/4A'/a super rough TR250/TR6/7, etc. I saw a Panhard Dyna in there. I had no idea what it was; it looks like a fish from the front! What IS it about climbing through junkyards that's so much fun? I equate it with shopping at the mall all day for women. Anyway, it's a fun day trip if you're nearby. - Paul B. From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri Oct 14 02:04:34 2011 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 01:04:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Jensen meetup. Y'all are invited (Phoenix, AZ, USA) Message-ID: Hey Folks, Our fledgling Jensen club is meeting at the Mesa Riverview Mall car show this coming Saturday at 5pm. I'd like to extend an invitation to any Austin Healey owners in the Phoenix area to join us. Cheers! Jody -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ https://www.facebook.com/pages/They-Might-Be-Racing/182813478411202 <--Follow us on Facebook! 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Oct 14 03:31:12 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 11:31:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E980160.6040807@chello.nl> Best to connect the solenoid in the car to the startermotor and engine to the chassis (earth) with jumper cables, however make sure the connections are solid and cannot fall off. Also make sure the engine is supported properly and cannot fall over. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 14-10-2011 6:50, john spaur schreef: > So... I need to do a compression test. > The engine is out of the healey sitting on a dolly. I plan on running > jumper cables from another car to get the juice to turn the engine > over. How should I switch the power on and off. I need a momentary > switch. Can I take the solenoid out of the healey and use it? Are > there any issues that I should look out for? Does anyone have another > idea? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2090/4549 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/13/11 From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Oct 14 04:11:27 2011 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 06:11:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E980ACF.7010101@earthlink.net> John, You could do a leak down test and not need to spin the engine over on the starter. Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 10/14/2011 12:50 AM, john spaur wrote: > So... I need to do a compression test. > The engine is out of the healey sitting on a dolly. I plan on running > jumper cables from another car to get the juice to turn the engine over. > How should I switch the power on and off. I need a momentary switch. Can > I take the solenoid out of the healey and use it? Are there any issues > that I should look out for? Does anyone have another idea? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Fri Oct 14 11:45:14 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 10:45:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20111014134514.DST65.1638348.imail@fed1rmwml4201> How 'bout like t his? http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/ihc/ihc0806/ihc080600159/3193115-man-creating-sparks-with-cables.jpg ---- john spaur wrote: > So... I need to do a compression test. > The engine is out of the healey sitting on a dolly. I plan on running > jumper cables from another car to get the juice to turn the engine > over. How should I switch the power on and off. I need a momentary > switch. Can I take the solenoid out of the healey and use it? Are > there any issues that I should look out for? Does anyone have another idea? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Fri Oct 14 11:47:58 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 10:47:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! In-Reply-To: <2D580209C7274D83B60C052384C5CFA4@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <20111014134758.X3N39.1638377.imail@fed1rmwml4201> Was making a "joke", knowing that you have that car. Was just looking at it the other day in "The Healey Book" Wilko BN6 ---- Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > G'day Eric > > I just ran down to the garage and the only four-seater BN3 is still there. > However it did spend some time in a junkyard during the late 1950s and > perhaps Paul B. slipped through a time portal. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins > Sent: Friday, 14 October 2011 12:09 PM > To: Paul Barnes > Cc: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow, I didn't think this happened anymore! > > 4 seats, drum brakes = bn4 > > Or BN3! > > Sent from my iPhone, so autocorrects may have inserted some odd words. > > On Oct 12, 2011, at 10:49 PM, "Paul Barnes" wrote: > > > Today, while climbing through a OLD junkyard, I found a Austin Healey! I > > don't know if it was a 100-6 or a 3000 as quite a bit of it was gone, but > I > > can say that it definitely was not a 100-4, a BJ8, and it was a four > seater. > > It has four wheel drum brakes and wire wheels. It must have been there a > > long time. The front shroud is gone, as are the engine and gearbox. The > rear > > shroud is there as are the rear fenders, rear axle and diff., front > > suspension, some interior bits. ID plates are gone. It was just so > > unexpected to see a Healey in a junkyard these days! Well, a big Healey I > > mean. There are like 6-7 Bugeyes in the same yard. > > > > - Paul B. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Oct 14 10:01:09 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 09:01:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical In-Reply-To: <4E980ACF.7010101@earthlink.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E980ACF.7010101@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I concur wholeheartedly with the leak down test versus a compression test. You'll get a much better indication of the condition of your engine. Compression test is a waste of time. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Oct 14, 2011 at 3:11 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > John, > > You could do a leak down test and not need to spin the engine over on the > starter. > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_**3000mk1.php > > > On 10/14/2011 12:50 AM, john spaur wrote: > >> So... I need to do a compression test. >> The engine is out of the healey sitting on a dolly. I plan on running >> jumper cables from another car to get the juice to turn the engine over. >> How should I switch the power on and off. I need a momentary switch. Can >> I take the solenoid out of the healey and use it? Are there any issues >> that I should look out for? Does anyone have another idea? >> >> Thank you, >> John Spaur >> San Jose, CA >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/rchaskell@**earthlink.net >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/cnaarndt@**gmail.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Fri Oct 14 09:04:32 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 08:04:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01cc8a82$945a01d0$bd0e0570$@ca> Better to consider a leak down test....will give you more information. Take all the plugs out so that the engine turns easier. Good luck, Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:51 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical So... I need to do a compression test. The engine is out of the healey sitting on a dolly. I plan on running jumper cables from another car to get the juice to turn the engine over. How should I switch the power on and off. I need a momentary switch. Can I take the solenoid out of the healey and use it? Are there any issues that I should look out for? Does anyone have another idea? Thank you, John Spaur San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From Editorgary at aol.com Fri Oct 14 22:24:02 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 00:24:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tabernacle? Message-ID: <303a5.53e30a1f.3bca64e2@aol.com> In a message dated 10/14/11 8:02:22 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > The junkyard is called Friendship Used Auto Parts and it's located in > Tabernacle New Jersey. > Definitely sounds like an apostolic time-warp Indiana Jones kind of place. Are you sure you didn't just get raptured to the place? G. From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Sat Oct 15 02:03:03 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 10:03:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical In-Reply-To: <000c01cc8a82$945a01d0$bd0e0570$@ca> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111013214720.020a13c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <000c01cc8a82$945a01d0$bd0e0570$@ca> Message-ID: Compression test is good to indicate differences detween the cylinders. Not much more info though. Leakdown. Gergo 2011/10/14 PG > Better to consider a leak down test....will give you more information. > Take > all the plugs out so that the engine turns easier. > > Good luck, > > Paul > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of john spaur > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:51 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical > > So... I need to do a compression test. > The engine is out of the healey sitting on a dolly. I plan on running > jumper cables from another car to get the juice to turn the engine > over. How should I switch the power on and off. I need a momentary > switch. Can I take the solenoid out of the healey and use it? Are > there any issues that I should look out for? Does anyone have another idea? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Sat Oct 15 07:34:11 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:34:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] MaxJax on a BN2 Message-ID: <5FE8ACC7-C48C-4F70-9B28-17F5C9D8B7BC@yahoo.com> I am installing my MaxJax and I am wondering if anyone is using a MaxJax with a BN2. I have concerns about clearances specially the muffler. Should I use extenders ? All input is welcomed Thanks Sent from my iPad From npaul72464 at aol.com Sat Oct 15 10:40:09 2011 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 12:40:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] MaxJax on a BN2 In-Reply-To: <5FE8ACC7-C48C-4F70-9B28-17F5C9D8B7BC@yahoo.com> References: <5FE8ACC7-C48C-4F70-9B28-17F5C9D8B7BC@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CE59703C60999D-132C-45014@Webmail-d107.sysops.aol.com> I use a MaxJax with my BN7. I cut two 3/4 inch squares the size of the rubber pads for the two rear arms so that it clears the exhaust. I just put an old work glove on the wood for some cushioning. Seems to work fine. Could probably cut a hole in the wood square and mount it under the pad so that the rubber contacts the frame. Let me know if I can help further. I do love the MaxJax...takes up little room, is heavy duty, and goes up just high enough for me to scoot around under the car on a rolling seat. Ned Paulsen, Webster, NY 1960 BN7 1958 TR3A -----Original Message----- From: Jose Vicente Vargas To: healeys Sent: Sat, Oct 15, 2011 7:02 am Subject: [Healeys] MaxJax on a BN2 I am installing my MaxJax and I am wondering if anyone is using a MaxJax with a BN2. I have concerns about clearances specially the muffler. Should I use extenders ? All input is welcomed Thanks Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Oct 15 11:00:24 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 10:00:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Ignitor II Message-ID: <4E99BC28.9080705@comcast.net> Inspired by our recent discussion about Pertronix Ignitors and coils (again), I called Pertronix to get the lowdown. In my discussion with Pertronix tech support, I asked if they had the Ignitor II for positive-ground Healeys. Answer was no, they'd never even given it any thought. However, I did mention that there's a fairly large enthusiast base who might be interested in such a gadget. From what I understand, the advantage of the II is that it can actively change dwell based on RPM, to give the best performance across a wider range of speeds (the 'original' Ignitor is basically electronic points; no active dwell control involved). It also has protective circuitry to prevent frying itself or the coil (e.g. forgetful LBC owner leaves key in 'run' position during beer break). http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx Thought I'd throw this out there to see if there's any interest. Pertronix said they'd want a commitment of at least 20-25 before they'd build a batch. One issue cited was size; there may be some issue with the Ignitor's magnet 'collar' fitting under the rotor in a Lucas distributor--anyone using a II on a neg-ground car?--but if the II is the same size/shape as the original it will fit OK under a Lucas 26D cap (barely). Just thought of more 'upside:' I'm currently carrying points as a backup to my Ignitor, if I got an Ignitor II I could carry the Ignitor for a backup (switching back to points on the roadside is doable, but it would be a lot easier to just slap a known-good Ignitor in). DISCLAIMER: I'm not a shill for Pertronix, just been very happy with my original Ignitor and can't resist messin' with a good thing. If this happens, I suspect Pertronix would want (at least) one person to commit to a batch purchase. I'm not volunteering to do this--and frankly, I'm not that energetic--but maybe one of the List vendors would be willing to make a batch purchase, and sell for a reasonable markup. If not, and there's enough interest, I might be persuaded to arrange this for a (very slight) markup to cover time and expense, etc. (though I suspect Pertronix might only wholesale to someone with a retailer's or jobber's license). Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Oct 15 12:24:09 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 14:24:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Ignitor II In-Reply-To: <4E99BC28.9080705@comcast.net> References: <4E99BC28.9080705@comcast.net> Message-ID: <01ea01cc8b67$a1bf4160$e53dc420$@verizon.net> OK. I am confused. I have a positive ground BN6 and have had a Pertronix Ignitor on it for years. You can see my wiring of it on my site on the Technical Page, Ignition section. Also wrote an article on this that appeared in Healey Marque Magazine a couple of years ago. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 1:00 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Ignitor II Inspired by our recent discussion about Pertronix Ignitors and coils (again), I called Pertronix to get the lowdown. In my discussion with Pertronix tech support, I asked if they had the Ignitor II for positive-ground Healeys. Answer was no, they'd never even given it any thought. However, I did mention that there's a fairly large enthusiast base who might be interested in such a gadget. From what I understand, the advantage of the II is that it can actively change dwell based on RPM, to give the best performance across a wider range of speeds (the 'original' Ignitor is basically electronic points; no active dwell control involved). It also has protective circuitry to prevent frying itself or the coil (e.g. forgetful LBC owner leaves key in 'run' position during beer break). http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx Thought I'd throw this out there to see if there's any interest. Pertronix said they'd want a commitment of at least 20-25 before they'd build a batch. One issue cited was size; there may be some issue with the Ignitor's magnet 'collar' fitting under the rotor in a Lucas distributor--anyone using a II on a neg-ground car?--but if the II is the same size/shape as the original it will fit OK under a Lucas 26D cap (barely). Just thought of more 'upside:' I'm currently carrying points as a backup to my Ignitor, if I got an Ignitor II I could carry the Ignitor for a backup (switching back to points on the roadside is doable, but it would be a lot easier to just slap a known-good Ignitor in). From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Oct 15 12:28:46 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 11:28:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Ignitor II In-Reply-To: <01ea01cc8b67$a1bf4160$e53dc420$@verizon.net> References: <4E99BC28.9080705@comcast.net> <01ea01cc8b67$a1bf4160$e53dc420$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4E99D0DE.2080007@comcast.net> I too, have a Pertronix (on my pos-grnd BJ8). The Ignitor II is a later model with more active dwell control (and, apparently, they're red--the Ignitor is black). Note 'Ignitor' vs. 'Ignitor II' (Ignitor 2). Bob On 10/15/2011 11:24 AM, John Sims wrote: > OK. I am confused. I have a positive ground BN6 and have had a Pertronix > Ignitor on it for years. You can see my wiring of it on my site on the > Technical Page, Ignition section. Also wrote an article on this that > appeared in Healey Marque Magazine a couple of years ago. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 1:00 PM > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Ignitor II > > Inspired by our recent discussion about Pertronix Ignitors and coils > (again), I called Pertronix to get the lowdown. In my discussion with > Pertronix tech support, I asked if they had the Ignitor II for > positive-ground Healeys. Answer was no, they'd never even given it any > thought. However, I did mention that there's a fairly large enthusiast base > who might be interested in such a gadget. From what I understand, the > advantage of the II is that it can actively change dwell based on RPM, to > give the best performance across a wider range of speeds (the 'original' > Ignitor is basically electronic points; no active dwell control involved). > It also has protective circuitry to prevent frying itself or the coil (e.g. > forgetful LBC owner leaves key in 'run' position during beer break). > > http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx > > Thought I'd throw this out there to see if there's any interest. Pertronix > said they'd want a commitment of at least > 20-25 before they'd build a batch. One issue cited was size; there may be > some issue with the Ignitor's magnet 'collar' > fitting under the rotor in a Lucas distributor--anyone using a II on a > neg-ground car?--but if the II is the same size/shape as the original it > will fit OK under a Lucas 26D cap (barely). > > Just thought of more 'upside:' I'm currently carrying points as a backup to > my Ignitor, if I got an Ignitor II I could carry the Ignitor for a backup > (switching back to points on the roadside is doable, but it would be a lot > easier to just slap a known-good Ignitor in). > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Oct 15 20:21:45 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 19:21:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa Message-ID: <1318731705.78013.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Oct 15 22:42:16 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:42:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: <1318731705.78013.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1318731705.78013.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: great footage! On Sat, Oct 15, 2011 at 7:21 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: > > http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 > > Rick > > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From shop at justbrits.com Sun Oct 16 00:13:59 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 01:13:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: <1318731705.78013.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1318731705.78013.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E9A7627.3050005@justbrits.com> << If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: >> Why Rick, is it a bone stock Frogeye whipping a Tricarb, a BJ-8 AND a Nasty Boy ?!?!? Anon PS: HAD too, just HAD tooooooooooooooooooooooo From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 00:31:57 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 17:31:57 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion Message-ID: Hey Guys, I have got a Torringtom roller bearing setup to replace the phosphor bronze bushes in the top of the king pin to trunnion, that I'm going to fit on my BJ8. I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and removing shims, then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with grease and reassemble. Is that correct?? Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? Hoping it will help low speed manouverability with lots of neg camber, 6in wheels and Penrite steering molasses in the steering box.... Best Chris www.myaustinhealey.com PS Go Casey Stoner you legend - Winner of the 2011 Moto GP championship today! And go the Wallabies tonight!!! Sent from my iPhone From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Sun Oct 16 04:26:38 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:26:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Chris I have fitted trunnion roller bearings to my BN1 but they may have been a different make. I have only driven the car a few miles since a full rebuild but so far all seems fine and with less steering effort although this is only subjective. I did however have a problem fitting these because they are, I believe slightly wider (taller) than the original bronze washer pack. Therefore the bearing was tight without any shims. On one I managed to still have the correct clearance with no shims at all but on the other I had to machine a small amount from the top of the stub/swivel axle. So - just a word of warning. It may not be a simple fitting job so allow some time for extra work. Best regards >I have got a Torringtom roller bearing setup to replace the phosphor >bronze bushes in the top of the king pin to trunnion, that I'm going >to fit on my BJ8. >I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a >minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and removing shims, >then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with >grease and reassemble. >Is that correct?? >Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? >Hoping it will help low speed manouverability with lots of neg camber, >6in wheels and Penrite steering molasses in the steering box.... >Best >Chris >www.myaustinhealey.com >PS Go Casey Stoner you legend - Winner of the 2011 Moto GP championship >today! And go the Wallabies tonight!!! > >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk -- John Harper From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Oct 16 07:19:00 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 06:19:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9AD9C4.1040502@comcast.net> re: "I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and removing shims, then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with grease and reassemble. Is that correct?? Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? " That's what I did. The Good Book (shop manual) has a clearance spec--think it's a little more than a thou, 2 maybe--but I just did it by feel (the suspension sits on the bearings, so I think you just need to make sure they aren't preloaded). I used the same Sta-Lube moly grease I use on all grease points. I also greased as normal after initial packing and install. Steering effort was reduced, but like John said it's subjective (hey, if you think it's less that's just as good). Bob On 10/15/2011 11:31 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey Guys, > I have got a Torringtom roller bearing setup to replace the phosphor bronze bushes in the top of the king pin to > trunnion, that I'm going to fit on my BJ8. > I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and > removing shims, then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with grease and reassemble. > Is that correct?? > Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? > Hoping it will help low speed manouverability with lots of neg camber, 6in wheels and Penrite steering molasses in the > steering box.... > Best > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > PS Go Casey Stoner you legend - Winner of the 2011 Moto GP championship today! And go the Wallabies tonight!!! > > Sent from my iPhone > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Oct 16 08:08:55 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 16:08:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9AE577.1090405@chello.nl> I do not think that you will find a clearly noticeable lighter steering effort by fitting these trunnion roller bearings compared with a well maintained original set up. The problem is the negative camber and wide rims/tires. Running higher tire pressures and fitting a larger steering wheel will help or even going as far as fitting electric power steering (which is fairly simple these days, lots of firms provide this service) may be the answer to improve on the heavy steering. Kees Oudesluijs NL > >> I have got a Torringtom roller bearing setup to replace the phosphor >> bronze bushes in the top of the king pin to trunnion, that I'm going >> to fit on my BJ8. >> I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a >> minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and removing shims, >> then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with >> grease and reassemble. >> Is that correct?? >> Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? >> Hoping it will help low speed manouverability with lots of neg >> camber, 6in wheels and Penrite steering molasses in the steering box.... >> Best >> Chris >> www.myaustinhealey.com >> PS Go Casey Stoner you legend - Winner of the 2011 Moto GP >> championship today! And go the Wallabies tonight!!! >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Oct 16 08:31:40 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 07:31:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion In-Reply-To: <4E9AD9C4.1040502@comcast.net> References: <4E9AD9C4.1040502@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000901cc8c10$523ac390$f6b04ab0$@ca> I did the same as Bob.......seems to work fine. I changed the camber on my car to negative 1 degree at the same time. Steering seems very comfortable. I've got some shims left over if you need some . Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 6:19 AM To: Chris Dimmock Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion re: "I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and removing shims, then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with grease and reassemble. Is that correct?? Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? " That's what I did. The Good Book (shop manual) has a clearance spec--think it's a little more than a thou, 2 maybe--but I just did it by feel (the suspension sits on the bearings, so I think you just need to make sure they aren't preloaded). I used the same Sta-Lube moly grease I use on all grease points. I also greased as normal after initial packing and install. Steering effort was reduced, but like John said it's subjective (hey, if you think it's less that's just as good). Bob On 10/15/2011 11:31 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey Guys, > I have got a Torringtom roller bearing setup to replace the phosphor bronze bushes in the top of the king pin to > trunnion, that I'm going to fit on my BJ8. > I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and > removing shims, then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with grease and reassemble. > Is that correct?? > Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? > Hoping it will help low speed manouverability with lots of neg camber, 6in wheels and Penrite steering molasses in the > steering box.... > Best > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > PS Go Casey Stoner you legend - Winner of the 2011 Moto GP championship today! And go the Wallabies tonight!!! > > Sent from my iPhone > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Oct 16 10:38:29 2011 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 12:38:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion Message-ID: I found that I had to use wheel bearing shims, because the normal trunnion shims were too thick- there was play to take up on both sides, but not much. Just as you described, I did it dry, and then assembled with grease once it was satisfactory. Stephen, BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Oct 16 10:45:55 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 09:45:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion In-Reply-To: <4E9AD9C4.1040502@comcast.net> References: <4E9AD9C4.1040502@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E9B0A43.8080501@comcast.net> I need to correct myself here (shouldn't post before the second cup of coffee kicks in). The suspension sits on the coils, of course, not on the bearings. However, too much slack in the upper trunnion bushing/bearing setup would batter the shocks more than necessary, likely resulting in greater wear and more leaks. Bob On 10/16/2011 6:19 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > re: "I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding > and removing shims, then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with grease and reassemble. > Is that correct?? > Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? " > > > That's what I did. The Good Book (shop manual) has a clearance spec--think it's a little more than a thou, 2 > maybe--but I just did it by feel (the suspension sits on the bearings, so I think you just need to make sure they > aren't preloaded). I used the same Sta-Lube moly grease I use on all grease points. I also greased as normal after > initial packing and install. > > Steering effort was reduced, but like John said it's subjective (hey, if you think it's less that's just as good). > > > Bob > > > > > > On 10/15/2011 11:31 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: >> Hey Guys, >> I have got a Torringtom roller bearing setup to replace the phosphor bronze bushes in the top of the king pin to >> trunnion, that I'm going to fit on my BJ8. >> I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and >> removing shims, then once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with grease and reassemble. >> Is that correct?? >> Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? >> Hoping it will help low speed manouverability with lots of neg camber, 6in wheels and Penrite steering molasses in >> the steering box.... >> Best >> Chris >> www.myaustinhealey.com >> PS Go Casey Stoner you legend - Winner of the 2011 Moto GP championship today! And go the Wallabies tonight!!! >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From AH at jharper.demon.co.uk Sun Oct 16 10:47:48 2011 From: AH at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 17:47:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion In-Reply-To: <4E9AE577.1090405@chello.nl> References: <4E9AE577.1090405@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees Have you fitted these and tried to compare before and after, admittedly subjectively, or is this just a personal opinion? Regards >I do not think that you will find a clearly noticeable lighter steering >effort by fitting these trunnion roller bearings compared with a well >maintained original set up. The problem is the negative camber and wide >rims/tires. >Running higher tire pressures and fitting a larger steering wheel will >help or even going as far as fitting electric power steering (which is >fairly simple these days, lots of firms provide this service) may be >the answer to improve on the heavy steering. >Kees Oudesluijs >NL > >> >>> I have got a Torringtom roller bearing setup to replace the phosphor >>>bronze bushes in the top of the king pin to trunnion, that I'm going >>>to fit on my BJ8. >>> I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a >>>minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and removing shims, >>>once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack with >>>grease and reassemble. >>> Is that correct?? >>> Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? >>> Hoping it will help low speed manouverability with lots of neg >>>camber, 6in wheels and Penrite steering molasses in the steering box.... >>> Best >>> Chris >>> www.myaustinhealey.com >>> PS Go Casey Stoner you legend - Winner of the 2011 Moto GP >>>championship today! And go the Wallabies tonight!!! >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk -- John Harper From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Sun Oct 16 12:13:29 2011 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:13:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa Message-ID: <1318788809.86226.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag drivers. A good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was the perfect cherry. Best JK On Sat Oct 15th, 2011 10:21 PM EDT HealeyRick wrote: >If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: > >http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 > >Rick > > > >Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Oct 16 12:17:41 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 12:17:41 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] another fluid question Message-ID: Needed to use my Porta Power on a TR6 cracked chassis and realized that it was low on "oil" I hunted high and low for some "hydraulic jack/ram" oil to no avail. I had gallons of brake fluid in the shop. ah, are they interchangeable? No specifics in the directions on the ram pump label.. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Oct 16 12:21:32 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 20:21:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion In-Reply-To: References: <4E9AE577.1090405@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4E9B20AC.4090704@chello.nl> I have done similar conversions on other cars, Landrover and MG, and although there may be a very small improvement, this is usually caused by the heavy steering because of worn parts before the conversion. OK, friction is a bit less as well than with the original set up, but this is negligible compared to wider tires and negative camber. I do have direct comparisons though when I fitted wider tires to my car (Jensen Healey), from 185/70R13 to 205/55R15 and the steering was quite a bit heavier, so I increased the tire pressure to compensate for a bit. It is still way more heavy though at parking manoeuvres. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 16-10-2011 18:47, John Harper schreef: > > Kees > > Have you fitted these and tried to compare before and after, > admittedly subjectively, or is this just a personal opinion? > > Regards > >> I do not think that you will find a clearly noticeable lighter >> steering effort by fitting these trunnion roller bearings compared >> with a well maintained original set up. The problem is the negative >> camber and wide rims/tires. >> Running higher tire pressures and fitting a larger steering wheel >> will help or even going as far as fitting electric power steering >> (which is fairly simple these days, lots of firms provide this >> service) may be the answer to improve on the heavy steering. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >>> >>>> I have got a Torringtom roller bearing setup to replace the >>>> phosphor bronze bushes in the top of the king pin to trunnion, that >>>> I'm going to fit on my BJ8. >>>> I'm guessing you fit them dry, with a hand full of shims, set a >>>> minimal end float (around a thou or so) by adding and removing >>>> shims, once you have required end float dry, pull apart and repack >>>> with grease and reassemble. >>>> Is that correct?? >>>> Any grease grade/ type comments?? Clearance comments? >>>> Hoping it will help low speed manouverability with lots of neg >>>> camber, 6in wheels and Penrite steering molasses in the steering >>>> box.... >>>> Best >>>> Chris >>>> www.myaustinhealey.com >>>> PS Go Casey Stoner you legend - Winner of the 2011 Moto GP >>>> championship today! And go the Wallabies tonight!!! >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Oct 16 13:05:44 2011 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 15:05:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation Message-ID: I've just noticed a strange discrepancy between my distributor cap, and all the reference photos I've got for BJ8 engines. There is only one way for the cap to fit the disributor, naturally, but , when snapped into place, the molded top of mine seems to be 180 degrees around from the other examples.... that is, the wires come out of cap towards the bottom left, rather than towards the top right- which makes more sense, because it's towards the coil. It may explain why I remember having to re-wire the cap, so that the vacuum unit didn't get too close to the block when I was adjusting the timing. Anyone else noticed this? It is a Lucas cap that I bought in England ages ago. Stephen, BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Sun Oct 16 13:08:22 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 14:08:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Torrington roller bearings trunnion In-Reply-To: <4E9B0A43.8080501@comcast.net> References: <4E9AD9C4.1040502@comcast.net> <4E9B0A43.8080501@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E9B2BA6.9090300@justbrits.com> << ...likely resulting in greater wear and more leaks. >> Not with shox re-built by Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts, Bob ! ! ! From bighealey3k at aim.com Sun Oct 16 13:58:29 2011 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 15:58:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] another fluid question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE5A551BD0F334-1510-63605@webmail-m133.sysops.aol.com> Is regular brake fluid still vegetable based fluid? If so, I don't think the vegetable base brake fluid will affect the rubber seals in the Porta Power but mineral base fluid will definitely mess up a brake systems seals. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: David Porter To: Healeys Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2011 3:28 pm Subject: [Healeys] another fluid question Needed to use my Porta Power on a TR6 cracked chassis and realized that it as low on "oil" I hunted high and low for some "hydraulic jack/ram" oil to o avail. I had gallons of brake fluid in the shop. ah, are they nterchangeable? No specifics in the directions on the ram pump label.. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE lbuquerque, NM USA 87107 05-352-1378 954 BN2 1959 AN5 orter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html allery: ttp://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice ictures-fun facts-my world ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 14:01:45 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 16:01:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] another fluid question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tractor Supply, auto parts stores where I live. Bob Johnson BJ8 On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 2:17 PM, David Porter wrote: > Needed to use my Porta Power on a TR6 cracked chassis and realized that it > was low on "oil" I hunted high and low for some "hydraulic jack/ram" oil to > no avail. I had gallons of brake fluid in the shop. ah, are they > interchangeable? > > No specifics in the directions on the ram pump label.. > > dave > > > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice > pictures-fun facts-my world > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8 at gmail.com From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 14:07:51 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 16:07:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale Message-ID: Ad in today's Charlotte (NC) Observer for 1967 Mk III. Healey Blue, 19,000 mi. O/D. $35000. 704-574-0738. Don't know anything more than this about it. Don't know who it belongs to. NFI, etc. Bob Johnson BJ8 From ynotink at msn.com Sun Oct 16 14:38:11 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 20:38:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: <1318788809.86226.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1318788809.86226.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yeah, that lightweight Jag near the end didn't take being passed very well. A perfect demonstration of the penalty for acting in anger... And what the hell are the specs for that car? Inquiring minds want to know... Bill Lawrence > Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:13:29 -0700 > From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com > To: healeyrick at yahoo.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa > > Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag drivers. A good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was the perfect cherry. > Best > JK > > > On Sat Oct 15th, 2011 10:21 PM EDT HealeyRick wrote: > > >If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: > > > >http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 > > > >Rick > > > > > > > >Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > >_______________________________________________ > >Healeys at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From ynotink at msn.com Sun Oct 16 14:44:19 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 20:44:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The distributor cap doesn't care how it's oriented. It's just a function of where the wires are placed. The standard orientation was determined by the manufacturer to provide the right clearances through the normal range of adjustment and to provide a standard layout for production. Unless it's a concours car it shouldn't matter. Bill Lawrence > Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 15:05:44 -0400 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > From: s.hutchings at rogers.com > Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation > > I've just noticed a strange discrepancy between my distributor cap, > and all the reference photos I've got for BJ8 engines. There is only > one way for the cap to fit the disributor, naturally, but , when > snapped into place, the molded top of mine seems to be 180 degrees > around from the other examples.... that is, the wires come out of cap > towards the bottom left, rather than towards the top right- which > makes more sense, because it's towards the coil. > It may explain why I remember having to re-wire the cap, so that the > vacuum unit didn't get too close to the block when I was adjusting > the timing. > Anyone else noticed this? It is a Lucas cap that I bought in England ages ago. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 15:06:46 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 23:06:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Golden age of Rally Message-ID: You may also enjoy this film just as I did. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TClxDryVT9Y Gergo From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Oct 16 15:07:47 2011 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 17:07:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation Message-ID: Oh, I realise that it doesn't matter, in the working of the distributor- that's why I re-wired the cap to give me more room for the timing adjustent... I just wondered if this was an oddball cap, or whether they arbitrarily made them both ways 'round. Stephen The distributor cap doesn't care how it's oriented. It's just a function of where the wires are placed. The standard orientation was determined by the manufacturer to provide the right clearances through the normal range of adjustment and to provide a standard layout for production. Unless it's a concours car it shouldn't matter. Bill Lawrence From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun Oct 16 15:12:55 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 14:12:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: <1318731705.78013.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1318731705.78013.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1DF65A8F-680C-4B79-95E3-067518460F8E@cox.net> Very fun footage of some really good driving. Thanks for that. On Oct 15, 2011, at 7:21 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: > > http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 > > Rick From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 16 15:14:37 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 14:14:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] another fluid question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111016141227.020e0c68@pop.att.yahoo.com> Not with brake fluid. I have some but I believe it is a lightweight oil like you would use in the stock healey shock absorbers. Granger carries it; google air tool oil. John At 12:17 PM 10/16/2011 -0600, you wrote: >Needed to use my Porta Power on a TR6 cracked chassis and realized that it >was low on "oil" I hunted high and low for some "hydraulic jack/ram" oil to >no avail. I had gallons of brake fluid in the shop. ah, are they >interchangeable? > > >dave From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 16:08:44 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 06:08:44 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Stephen - This is because when you motor was rebuilt last, or maybe when the PO took out the drive dog for the distributor for some reason, they put it in backwards. It's an easy mistake to make. It's quite easy to fix. Just pull thje drive dog out and turn it aroud 180 deg and then all will be back to factory orientation. Should take you less than 5 minutes to do. Shop manual tells you what to do. Of course, then you need to rewire :( . Best, Alan On 10/17/11, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I've just noticed a strange discrepancy between my distributor cap, > and all the reference photos I've got for BJ8 engines. There is only > one way for the cap to fit the disributor, naturally, but , when > snapped into place, the molded top of mine seems to be 180 degrees > around from the other examples.... that is, the wires come out of cap > towards the bottom left, rather than towards the top right- which > makes more sense, because it's towards the coil. > It may explain why I remember having to re-wire the cap, so that the > vacuum unit didn't get too close to the block when I was adjusting > the timing. > Anyone else noticed this? It is a Lucas cap that I bought in England ages > ago. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Oct 16 16:32:40 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 16:32:40 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] another fluid question In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111016141227.020e0c68@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111016141227.020e0c68@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sorry.. Poorly worded question. I know where to get it. I was wondering more about the difference. I think NM's own Bill Lawrence got it right or at least was confident in his reply. I was just wondering if bake fluid would foam too much, like in a hydraulic pump situation. Both rams and brake cylinders use rubber seals and clearly brake fluid is made for compression duties. I was just curious, didn't act on it...yet. Thanks to all dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: john spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 3:15 PM To: David Porter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] another fluid question Not with brake fluid. I have some but I believe it is a lightweight oil like you would use in the stock healey shock absorbers. Granger carries it; google air tool oil. John At 12:17 PM 10/16/2011 -0600, you wrote: >Needed to use my Porta Power on a TR6 cracked chassis and realized that it >was low on "oil" I hunted high and low for some "hydraulic jack/ram" oil to >no avail. I had gallons of brake fluid in the shop. ah, are they >interchangeable? > > >dave From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Oct 16 16:45:54 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 16:45:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The wire placement was done to accommodate distributer rotation without the vacuum chamber banging into the block or whatever might restrict adjustment. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 2:44 PM To: Stephen Hutchings; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation The distributor cap doesn't care how it's oriented. It's just a function of where the wires are placed. The standard orientation was determined by the manufacturer to provide the right clearances through the normal range of adjustment and to provide a standard layout for production. Unless it's a concours car it shouldn't matter. Bill Lawrence > Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 15:05:44 -0400 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > From: s.hutchings at rogers.com > Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation > > I've just noticed a strange discrepancy between my distributor cap, > and all the reference photos I've got for BJ8 engines. There is only > one way for the cap to fit the disributor, naturally, but , when > snapped into place, the molded top of mine seems to be 180 degrees > around from the other examples.... that is, the wires come out of cap > towards the bottom left, rather than towards the top right- which > makes more sense, because it's towards the coil. > It may explain why I remember having to re-wire the cap, so that the > vacuum unit didn't get too close to the block when I was adjusting > the timing. > Anyone else noticed this? It is a Lucas cap that I bought in England ages ago. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 17:20:54 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:20:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: References: <1318788809.86226.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I'd love to blame it on the Jag as well, but it looked to me the car that hit it was either taking a very dangerous line on the turn, or it actually had some sort of steering failure. Watch it closely. Alan On 10/17/11, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Yeah, that lightweight Jag near the end didn't take being passed very well. > A > perfect demonstration of the penalty for acting in anger... And what the > hell > are the specs for that car? Inquiring minds want to know... > Bill Lawrence > >> Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:13:29 -0700 >> From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa >> >> Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag drivers. A > good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was the > perfect cherry. >> Best >> JK >> >> >> On Sat Oct 15th, 2011 10:21 PM EDT HealeyRick wrote: >> >> >If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: >> > >> >http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 >> > >> >Rick >> > >> > >> > >> >Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo >> >_______________________________________________ >> >Healeys at autox.team.net >> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 17:51:54 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 19:51:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bill-- I'd guess that your distributor body is installed 180 degrees out. Take off the distributor cap and valve cover and pull #1 plug. Rotate the engine so that #1 piston is at the top of its travel with both valves closed which gives you top dead center. The rotor should be pointing roughly toward #1 cylinder but it sounds like your rotor will be pointing toward the passenger wheel well. If so loosen the distributor clamp, pull out the distributor and reengage the drive with the rotor in the correct position, then after you get the plug wires in their proper positions and firing order retime the car. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > The distributor cap doesn't care how it's oriented. It's just a function of > where the wires are placed. The standard orientation was determined by the > manufacturer to provide the right clearances through the normal range of > adjustment and to provide a standard layout for production. Unless it's a > concours car it shouldn't matter. > Bill Lawrence > > > Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 15:05:44 -0400 > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > From: s.hutchings at rogers.com > > Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation > > > > I've just noticed a strange discrepancy between my distributor cap, > > and all the reference photos I've got for BJ8 engines. There is only > > one way for the cap to fit the disributor, naturally, but , when > > snapped into place, the molded top of mine seems to be 180 degrees > > around from the other examples.... that is, the wires come out of cap > > towards the bottom left, rather than towards the top right- which > > makes more sense, because it's towards the coil. > > It may explain why I remember having to re-wire the cap, so that the > > vacuum unit didn't get too close to the block when I was adjusting > > the timing. > > Anyone else noticed this? It is a Lucas cap that I bought in England ages > ago. > > > > Stephen, BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From Editorgary at aol.com Sun Oct 16 18:54:55 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 20:54:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] That was no ordinary Healey Message-ID: <8fc6.6d86b6f5.3bccd6df@aol.com> In a message dated 10/16/11 3:45:21 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag drivers. > A good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was the > perfect cherry. > Best > JK > That was definitely no ordinary Healey. A real, standard (even race-standard) Healey in the day never, ever overtook Lotus 11s, much less Jaguars and Cobras on the straight. Great footage, but that car's engine preparation would definitely be illegal in any American vintage racing group. G. From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Oct 16 19:48:14 2011 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 21:48:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details Message-ID: OK everyone, I can see why you might think I have my distributor out by 180 degrees...I assure you that that is not the case. The distributor is not the issue here...it's the way the cap goes on to the body. There is a cut out for the cil wire, and it can only match up to the distributor in one way... So, Chris Dimmock has it right when he says that there are two models of cap that look the same, but are mirror images- as he explains in his email below. As soon as I saw all the 180 degree out advice, I realised that I may not have explained this clearly enough. Stephen, BJ8 Stephen, There are 2 caps that at first glance look the same. But they aren't. Lucas 54413902 That's the one that looks like a BJ8. But isn't. The cap is reversed. The coil lead from the cap v the white plastic tension lead is opposite. On a Lucas 54413902 cap the white plastic pick up is 180 degrees opposite the cap coil lead. I'll send you pics. Which one do you have? Chris From ynotink at msn.com Sun Oct 16 20:19:27 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 02:19:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: References: <1318788809.86226.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, , Message-ID: I'm not a racer, but it looked to me like the Jag was way off the line and moving way to fast for the corner. Wasn't that the place that blue car went off earlier? Very entertaining at any rate. Bill Lawrece > Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:20:54 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: ynotink at msn.com; jackson_krall at yahoo.com; healeyrick at yahoo.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > I'd love to blame it on the Jag as well, but it looked to me the car > that hit it was either taking a very dangerous line on the turn, or it > actually had some sort of steering failure. Watch it closely. > > Alan > > On 10/17/11, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > Yeah, that lightweight Jag near the end didn't take being passed very well. > > A > > perfect demonstration of the penalty for acting in anger... And what the > > hell > > are the specs for that car? Inquiring minds want to know... > > Bill Lawrence > > > >> Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:13:29 -0700 > >> From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com > >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com > >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa > >> > >> Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag drivers. A > > good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was the > > perfect cherry. > >> Best > >> JK > >> > >> > >> On Sat Oct 15th, 2011 10:21 PM EDT HealeyRick wrote: > >> > >> >If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: > >> > > >> >http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 > >> > > >> >Rick > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> >Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > >> >_______________________________________________ > >> >Healeys at autox.team.net > >> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> >Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device From ynotink at msn.com Sun Oct 16 20:24:07 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 02:24:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] That was no ordinary Healey In-Reply-To: <8fc6.6d86b6f5.3bccd6df@aol.com> References: <8fc6.6d86b6f5.3bccd6df@aol.com> Message-ID: It would sure be useful for teaching some of those damned rice burners some humility on the interstate though. Bill Lawrence > From: Editorgary at aol.com > Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 20:54:55 -0400 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] That was no ordinary Healey > > In a message dated 10/16/11 3:45:21 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > > > Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag drivers. > > A good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was the > > perfect cherry. > > Best > > JK > > > That was definitely no ordinary Healey. A real, standard (even > race-standard) Healey in the day never, ever overtook Lotus 11s, much less Jaguars and > Cobras on the straight. Great footage, but that car's engine preparation > would definitely be illegal in any American vintage racing group. > G. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 20:57:15 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 10:57:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have seen them before, I think those caps would be for distributors mounted on the other side of the motor, although not sure of the application. On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > OK everyone, I can see why you might think I have my distributor out > by 180 degrees...I assure you that that is not the case. > The distributor is not the issue here...it's the way the cap goes on > to the body. There is a cut out for the cil wire, and it can only > match up to the distributor in one way... > So, Chris Dimmock has it right when he says that there are two models > of cap that look the same, but are mirror images- as he explains in > his email below. > As soon as I saw all the 180 degree out advice, I realised that I may > not have explained this clearly enough. > Stephen, BJ8 > > Stephen, > There are 2 caps that at first glance look the same. But they aren't. > Lucas 54413902 > That's the one that looks like a BJ8. > But isn't. The cap is reversed. > The coil lead from the cap v the white plastic tension lead is opposite. > On a Lucas 54413902 cap the white plastic pick up is > 180 degrees opposite the cap coil lead. > I'll send you pics. > Which one do you have? > Chris > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Oct 16 21:31:16 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 21:31:16 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7DC5F5B159CD44E58C17A4058C76450D@oscar> Alfa used a Lucas distributer that turned clockwise. Different rotor too. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 7:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details OK everyone, I can see why you might think I have my distributor out by 180 degrees...I assure you that that is not the case. The distributor is not the issue here...it's the way the cap goes on to the body. There is a cut out for the cil wire, and it can only match up to the distributor in one way... So, Chris Dimmock has it right when he says that there are two models of cap that look the same, but are mirror images- as he explains in his email below. As soon as I saw all the 180 degree out advice, I realised that I may not have explained this clearly enough. Stephen, BJ8 Stephen, There are 2 caps that at first glance look the same. But they aren't. Lucas 54413902 That's the one that looks like a BJ8. But isn't. The cap is reversed. The coil lead from the cap v the white plastic tension lead is opposite. On a Lucas 54413902 cap the white plastic pick up is 180 degrees opposite the cap coil lead. I'll send you pics. Which one do you have? Chris _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Oct 16 22:59:42 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey]) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 15:59:42 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details In-Reply-To: <7DC5F5B159CD44E58C17A4058C76450D@oscar> References: <7DC5F5B159CD44E58C17A4058C76450D@oscar> Message-ID: Hi All Hard to email detail & links on tech issues from my phone, so I'll spell out more clearly what I explained to Stephen off list, as I inadvertently used the same part number twice... There are 2 different caps that at first glance look the same for the 25D6 as used on the BJ8, Jags, Wolsleys etc. But they aren't identical... The 'correct' cap for a 25D as fitted on a BJ8 is original Lucas part number 54412474. The high tension lead cut out in the cap is on the same side as the leads exit the cap; and when fitted to the distributor, the vacuum advance line nipple will be pointing towards the rear of the car, towards the block. Lucas 54412474 is the correct one. Here's a pic: http://72.47.197.171/bpmag/index.php/austin-healey/bn4-bj8/distributor-cap-bj7-bj8.html Note the low tension lead cutout is BELOW the coil lead. The 'incorrect' cap for a 25D as fitted on a BJ8 is original Lucas part number 54413902. The high tension lead cut out in the cap is on the OPPOSITE side to where the leads exit the cap; and when fitted to the distributor, so the leads can point towards the block, the vacuum advance line nipple will be pointing towards the FRONT of the car, towards the RHD steering box. These caps were used on 6 cyl princess/ wolseley sedans - and BJ8 based factory works cars (which didn't have vacuum advance - 23D6 based distributors) Yes, you can use it, by rewiring, and having your distributor look silly..... Lucas 54413902 is the wrong one - it is a wolseley/ 6/110 cap Here's a pic - http://www.retroclassiccarparts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&category_id=105&product_id=1569&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=155&vmcchk=1&Itemid=155 Notice the cutout at the 'back' of the cap, not under the coil lead? Bosch - in their infinite wisdom, decided that these caps were "interchangeable" - and have sold both caps under the same part number for at least the last 9 years. duh. So although I've quoted part numbers - remanuafacturered caps may not be correct.... you have to look at the relationship between the coil lead and the LT cutout..... Best Chris www.myaustinhealey.com On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 2:31 PM, David Porter wrote: > Alfa used a Lucas distributer that turned clockwise. Different rotor too. > dave > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings > Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 7:48 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details > > OK everyone, I can see why you might think I have my distributor out > by 180 degrees...I assure you that that is not the case. > The distributor is not the issue here...it's the way the cap goes on > to the body. There is a cut out for the cil wire, and it can only > match up to the distributor in one way... > So, Chris Dimmock has it right when he says that there are two models > of cap that look the same, but are mirror images- as he explains in > his email below. > As soon as I saw all the 180 degree out advice, I realised that I may > not have explained this clearly enough. > Stephen, BJ8 > > Stephen, > There are 2 caps that at first glance look the same. But they aren't. > Lucas 54413902 > That's the one that looks like a BJ8. > But isn't. The cap is reversed. > The coil lead from the cap v the white plastic tension lead is opposite. > On a Lucas 54413902 cap the white plastic pick up is > 180 degrees opposite the cap coil lead. > I'll send you pics. > Which one do you have? > Chris > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of healey distributor caps.jpg] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Oct 16 23:10:57 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:10:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] another fluid question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9BB8E1.2060001@chello.nl> I do not think brake fluid is suitable. Brake fluid is designed for automotive to withstand high temperatures and other specific characteristics and is hygroscopic. I seem to remember ATF as a suitable alternative, but I am not sure. Hydraulic fluid should be easy to find though. There are plenty of firms operating heavy lifting machines: cranes, jacks, trucks with moveable load area, lifts etc. I suppose google will show up something. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 16-10-2011 20:17, David Porter schreef: > Needed to use my Porta Power on a TR6 cracked chassis and realized that it > was low on "oil" I hunted high and low for some "hydraulic jack/ram" oil to > no avail. I had gallons of brake fluid in the shop. ah, are they > interchangeable? > > No specifics in the directions on the ram pump label.. > > dave > > > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice > pictures-fun facts-my world > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2090/4555 - datum van uitgifte: 10/16/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Oct 16 23:14:27 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:14:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9BB9B3.807@chello.nl> When did this discrepancy show up: when you changed the cap or when you (re)fitted the distributor? Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 16-10-2011 21:05, Stephen Hutchings schreef: > I've just noticed a strange discrepancy between my distributor cap, > and all the reference photos I've got for BJ8 engines. There is only > one way for the cap to fit the disributor, naturally, but , when > snapped into place, the molded top of mine seems to be 180 degrees > around from the other examples.... that is, the wires come out of cap > towards the bottom left, rather than towards the top right- which > makes more sense, because it's towards the coil. > It may explain why I remember having to re-wire the cap, so that the > vacuum unit didn't get too close to the block when I was adjusting the > timing. > Anyone else noticed this? It is a Lucas cap that I bought in England > ages ago. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2090/4555 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/16/11 From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Sun Oct 16 23:30:02 2011 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 22:30:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] That was no ordinary Healey Message-ID: <1318829402.8142.yint-ygo-j2me@web130222.mail.mud.yahoo.com> And those were no ordinary Jaguars Best JK On Sun Oct 16th, 2011 8:54 PM EDT Editorgary at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 10/16/11 3:45:21 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net >writes: > > >> Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag drivers. >> A good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was the >> perfect cherry. >> Best >> JK >> >That was definitely no ordinary Healey. A real, standard (even >race-standard) Healey in the day never, ever overtook Lotus 11s, much less Jaguars and >Cobras on the straight. Great footage, but that car's engine preparation >would definitely be illegal in any American vintage racing group. >G. >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 00:41:37 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 14:41:37 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation In-Reply-To: <4E9BC779.7030302@chello.nl> References: <4E9BC779.7030302@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees - on the BJ8 the drive dog is separate from the distributor drive. - Alan On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 2:13 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Problem is that the drive dog is off-set on the distributors, you can only > fit the distributor in one way. Taking off the drive dog from the > distributor shaft creates the chance that it will be refitted 180 degrees > off. It will be a bit longer than 5 minutes to fix as you have to drive out > and reinstall the rolling pin that fixes the drive dog to the shaft. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Op 17-10-2011 0:08, Alan Seigrist schreef: > > Stephen - >> >> This is because when you motor was rebuilt last, or maybe when the PO >> took out the drive dog for the distributor for some reason, they put >> it in backwards. It's an easy mistake to make. >> >> It's quite easy to fix. Just pull thje drive dog out and turn it >> aroud 180 deg and then all will be back to factory orientation. >> >> Should take you less than 5 minutes to do. Shop manual tells you what >> to do. Of course, then you need to rewire :( . >> >> Best, >> >> Alan >> >> On 10/17/11, Stephen Hutchings> >> wrote: >> >>> I've just noticed a strange discrepancy between my distributor cap, >>> and all the reference photos I've got for BJ8 engines. There is only >>> one way for the cap to fit the disributor, naturally, but , when >>> snapped into place, the molded top of mine seems to be 180 degrees >>> around from the other examples.... that is, the wires come out of cap >>> towards the bottom left, rather than towards the top right- which >>> makes more sense, because it's towards the coil. >>> It may explain why I remember having to re-wire the cap, so that the >>> vacuum unit didn't get too close to the block when I was adjusting >>> the timing. >>> Anyone else noticed this? It is a Lucas cap that I bought in England ages >>> ago. >>> >>> Stephen, BJ8 >>> ______________________________**_________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 00:44:18 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 14:44:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] another fluid question In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111016141227.020e0c68@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: For a Jack or anything carrying weight, just get proper hydraulic oil. If in a real jam, motorcycle fork oil or armstrong shock oil would be more appropriate, but still might cause problems. On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 6:32 AM, David Porter wrote: > Sorry.. Poorly worded question. I know where to get it. I was wondering > more > about the difference. I think NM's own Bill Lawrence got it right or at > least was confident in his reply. I was just wondering if bake fluid would > foam too much, like in a hydraulic pump situation. Both rams and brake > cylinders use rubber seals and clearly brake fluid is made for compression > duties. I was just curious, didn't act on it...yet. > Thanks to all > dave > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world > > > -----Original Message----- > From: john spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net] > Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 3:15 PM > To: David Porter > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] another fluid question > > Not with brake fluid. I have some but I believe it is a lightweight > oil like you would use in the stock healey shock absorbers. > > Granger carries it; google air tool oil. > > John > > At 12:17 PM 10/16/2011 -0600, you wrote: > >Needed to use my Porta Power on a TR6 cracked chassis and realized that it > >was low on "oil" I hunted high and low for some "hydraulic jack/ram" oil > to > >no avail. I had gallons of brake fluid in the shop. ah, are they > >interchangeable? > > > > > >dave > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Oct 17 00:13:13 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 08:13:13 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9BC779.7030302@chello.nl> Problem is that the drive dog is off-set on the distributors, you can only fit the distributor in one way. Taking off the drive dog from the distributor shaft creates the chance that it will be refitted 180 degrees off. It will be a bit longer than 5 minutes to fix as you have to drive out and reinstall the rolling pin that fixes the drive dog to the shaft. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 17-10-2011 0:08, Alan Seigrist schreef: > Stephen - > > This is because when you motor was rebuilt last, or maybe when the PO > took out the drive dog for the distributor for some reason, they put > it in backwards. It's an easy mistake to make. > > It's quite easy to fix. Just pull thje drive dog out and turn it > aroud 180 deg and then all will be back to factory orientation. > > Should take you less than 5 minutes to do. Shop manual tells you what > to do. Of course, then you need to rewire :( . > > Best, > > Alan > > On 10/17/11, Stephen Hutchings wrote: >> I've just noticed a strange discrepancy between my distributor cap, >> and all the reference photos I've got for BJ8 engines. There is only >> one way for the cap to fit the disributor, naturally, but , when >> snapped into place, the molded top of mine seems to be 180 degrees >> around from the other examples.... that is, the wires come out of cap >> towards the bottom left, rather than towards the top right- which >> makes more sense, because it's towards the coil. >> It may explain why I remember having to re-wire the cap, so that the >> vacuum unit didn't get too close to the block when I was adjusting >> the timing. >> Anyone else noticed this? It is a Lucas cap that I bought in England ages >> ago. >> >> Stephen, BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 01:17:30 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 15:17:30 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Golden age of Rally In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: great film. They genuinely seemed to have very nice things to say about the Healey 3000. On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 5:06 AM, Austin Healey wrote: > You may also enjoy this film just as I did. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TClxDryVT9Y > > Gergo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 04:42:49 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 12:42:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: References: <1318788809.86226.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I think the Jag driver was aware that he entered the corner at too high speed and wanted to reduce it before trying to turn the car in. He got panicked when the blue car came in from the left. This is for my eyes. The Healey always took shorter brake distances, soo approched the corners quicker. Not this time. The Jag was just a way to fast. Brake lights coming in very late. At least as I see it. Hard situation anyway, and some money smoked. Hope nobody got hurt. Gergo 2011/10/17 WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > I'm not a racer, but it looked to me like the Jag was way off the line and > moving way to fast for the corner. Wasn't that the place that blue car went > off earlier? > Very entertaining at any rate. > Bill Lawrece > > > Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:20:54 +0800 > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa > > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > > To: ynotink at msn.com; jackson_krall at yahoo.com; healeyrick at yahoo.com; > healeys at autox.team.net > > > > I'd love to blame it on the Jag as well, but it looked to me the car > > that hit it was either taking a very dangerous line on the turn, or it > > actually had some sort of steering failure. Watch it closely. > > > > Alan > > > > On 10/17/11, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > > Yeah, that lightweight Jag near the end didn't take being passed very > well. > > > A > > > perfect demonstration of the penalty for acting in anger... And what > the > > > hell > > > are the specs for that car? Inquiring minds want to know... > > > Bill Lawrence > > > > > >> Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:13:29 -0700 > > >> From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com > > >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net > > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa > > >> > > >> Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag > drivers. > A > > > good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was > the > > > perfect cherry. > > >> Best > > >> JK > > >> > > >> > > >> On Sat Oct 15th, 2011 10:21 PM EDT HealeyRick wrote: > > >> > > >> >If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: > > >> > > > >> >http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 > > >> > > > >> >Rick > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> >Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > >> >_______________________________________________ > > >> >Healeys at autox.team.net > > >> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >> >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > >> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > >> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > >> >Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > >> _______________________________________________ > > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from my mobile device > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 04:50:16 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 12:50:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: References: <1318788809.86226.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The other odd thing is that the Jag overtook the Healey in the straight very quickly. As before the Healey was always head-to--head or a little bit quicker, I would say that the Jag driver was pushing the engine above normal rev limit to avoid one shift. Aagin not a good decision on the long run. The Healey was quicker 60-70 percent of the track. Even he the Jag driver kills his engine he would have lost. Gergo 2011/10/17 Austin Healey > I think the Jag driver was aware that he entered the corner at too high > speed and wanted to reduce it before trying to turn the car in. He got > panicked when the blue car came in from the left. > This is for my eyes. > The Healey always took shorter brake distances, soo approched the corners > quicker. Not this time. The Jag was just a way to fast. Brake lights coming > in very late. > > At least as I see it. Hard situation anyway, and some money smoked. Hope > nobody got hurt. > > Gergo > > > 2011/10/17 WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > >> I'm not a racer, but it looked to me like the Jag was way off the line and >> moving way to fast for the corner. Wasn't that the place that blue car >> went >> off earlier? >> Very entertaining at any rate. >> Bill Lawrece >> >> > Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:20:54 +0800 >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa >> > From: healey.nut at gmail.com >> > To: ynotink at msn.com; jackson_krall at yahoo.com; healeyrick at yahoo.com; >> healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> > I'd love to blame it on the Jag as well, but it looked to me the car >> > that hit it was either taking a very dangerous line on the turn, or it >> > actually had some sort of steering failure. Watch it closely. >> > >> > Alan >> > >> > On 10/17/11, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> > > Yeah, that lightweight Jag near the end didn't take being passed very >> well. >> > > A >> > > perfect demonstration of the penalty for acting in anger... And what >> the >> > > hell >> > > are the specs for that car? Inquiring minds want to know... >> > > Bill Lawrence >> > > >> > >> Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:13:29 -0700 >> > >> From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com >> > >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com >> > >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa >> > >> >> > >> Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag >> drivers. >> A >> > > good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was >> the >> > > perfect cherry. >> > >> Best >> > >> JK >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> On Sat Oct 15th, 2011 10:21 PM EDT HealeyRick wrote: >> > >> >> > >> >If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: >> > >> > >> > >> >http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 >> > >> > >> > >> >Rick >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo >> > >> >_______________________________________________ >> > >> >Healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > >> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > >> >Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com >> > > _______________________________________________ >> > > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > >> > >> > -- >> > Sent from my mobile device >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From linwoodrose at mac.com Mon Oct 17 05:27:46 2011 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:27:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] zinc plating Message-ID: <55F7E95C-A5A2-4BA1-8364-810417CFE343@mac.com> I seem to have lost my contact information on vendors for re-zincing fasteners. Can someone help me? Thanks! Lin Lin Rose 1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body. 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have it! 1964 Jag MKII - current project From csooch1 at aol.com Mon Oct 17 06:42:01 2011 From: csooch1 at aol.com (chris.masucci@alumni.rutgers.edu) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 08:42:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tabernacle? In-Reply-To: <303a5.53e30a1f.3bca64e2@aol.com> References: <303a5.53e30a1f.3bca64e2@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CE5AE14CED1092-1194-70DF3@webmail-d134.sysops.aol.com> I grew up most of my life in South Jersey (Mt. Laurel) and spent the better part of my high school Saturdays scrounging around at Friendship. It is a time warp junkyard if I've ever seen one. They had an XK150 that I pulled some parts from for my Dad, and used to have a TR6 or two. I haven't been there in probably 12 years or so, but they still had 5 DeSoto's with the 392 Hemi...including the Magnesium dual-quad cross ram intakes. Bet those are worth a pretty penny. They still had hundreds and hundreds of 50's and 60's cars there. Cheers, Chris BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Editorgary To: healeys Sent: Sat, Oct 15, 2011 12:39 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tabernacle? In a message dated 10/14/11 8:02:22 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net rites: The junkyard is called Friendship Used Auto Parts and it's located in Tabernacle New Jersey. Definitely sounds like an apostolic time-warp Indiana Jones kind of place. re you sure you didn't just get raptured to the place? . ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/csooch1 at aol.com From warthodson at aol.com Mon Oct 17 07:30:32 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 09:30:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE5AE813D88F94-1328-580B8@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com> Speaking of distributors on the other side of the motor, I understand that the 100S used a standard 100 block but a different head with the intake & exhaust on the opposite (RH)side. But I have never read/heard how they moved the distributor to the opposite (LH) side of the block. Can someone provide a detailed description the 100S machining modifications that were required for the conversion? Also, out of curiosity, did anyone ever offer an aftermarket cross flow head for the 100? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Stephen Hutchings Cc: healeys Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2011 11:18 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details I have seen them before, I think those caps would be for distributors ounted on the other side of the motor, although not sure of the pplication. From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Oct 17 08:12:59 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 10:12:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tabernacle? In-Reply-To: <8CE5AE14CED1092-1194-70DF3@webmail-d134.sysops.aol.com> References: <303a5.53e30a1f.3bca64e2@aol.com> <8CE5AE14CED1092-1194-70DF3@webmail-d134.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <026401cc8cd6$e02b0ef0$a0812cd0$@verizon.net> I just did a Google Earth on it and from the sky the place looks similar to a golf course with a clubhouse. Only on zooming in can you see the hundreds of cars in the place. Gotta go there one day just to snoop around. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of chris.masucci at alumni.rutgers.edu Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 8:42 AM To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tabernacle? I grew up most of my life in South Jersey (Mt. Laurel) and spent the better part of my high school Saturdays scrounging around at Friendship. It is a time warp junkyard if I've ever seen one. They had an XK150 that I pulled some parts from for my Dad, and used to have a TR6 or two. I haven't been there in probably 12 years or so, but they still had 5 DeSoto's with the 392 Hemi...including the Magnesium dual-quad cross ram intakes. Bet those are worth a pretty penny. They still had hundreds and hundreds of 50's and 60's cars there. Cheers, Chris BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Editorgary To: healeys Sent: Sat, Oct 15, 2011 12:39 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tabernacle? In a message dated 10/14/11 8:02:22 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net rites: The junkyard is called Friendship Used Auto Parts and it's located in Tabernacle New Jersey. Definitely sounds like an apostolic time-warp Indiana Jones kind of place. re you sure you didn't just get raptured to the place? . ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/csooch1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 08:15:32 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 16:15:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: References: <1318788809.86226.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Fantastic driving, outbraking everybody and an amazingly agressive line through 'Eau Rouge'!! Derek On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 12:50 PM, Austin Healey wrote: > The other odd thing is that the Jag overtook the Healey in the straight > very > quickly. As before the Healey was always head-to--head or a little bit > quicker, I would say that the Jag driver was pushing the engine above > normal > rev limit to avoid one shift. Aagin not a good decision on the long run. > The > Healey was quicker 60-70 percent of the track. Even he the Jag driver kills > his engine he would have lost. > > Gergo > > 2011/10/17 Austin Healey > > > I think the Jag driver was aware that he entered the corner at too high > > speed and wanted to reduce it before trying to turn the car in. He got > > panicked when the blue car came in from the left. > > This is for my eyes. > > The Healey always took shorter brake distances, soo approched the corners > > quicker. Not this time. The Jag was just a way to fast. Brake lights > coming > > in very late. > > > > At least as I see it. Hard situation anyway, and some money smoked. Hope > > nobody got hurt. > > > > Gergo > > > > > > 2011/10/17 WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > > > >> I'm not a racer, but it looked to me like the Jag was way off the line > and > >> moving way to fast for the corner. Wasn't that the place that blue car > >> went > >> off earlier? > >> Very entertaining at any rate. > >> Bill Lawrece > >> > >> > Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:20:54 +0800 > >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa > >> > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > >> > To: ynotink at msn.com; jackson_krall at yahoo.com; healeyrick at yahoo.com; > >> healeys at autox.team.net > >> > > >> > I'd love to blame it on the Jag as well, but it looked to me the car > >> > that hit it was either taking a very dangerous line on the turn, or it > >> > actually had some sort of steering failure. Watch it closely. > >> > > >> > Alan > >> > > >> > On 10/17/11, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > >> > > Yeah, that lightweight Jag near the end didn't take being passed > very > >> well. > >> > > A > >> > > perfect demonstration of the penalty for acting in anger... And what > >> the > >> > > hell > >> > > are the specs for that car? Inquiring minds want to know... > >> > > Bill Lawrence > >> > > > >> > >> Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:13:29 -0700 > >> > >> From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com > >> > >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com > >> > >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net > >> > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa > >> > >> > >> > >> Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag > >> drivers. > >> A > >> > > good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was > >> the > >> > > perfect cherry. > >> > >> Best > >> > >> JK > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> On Sat Oct 15th, 2011 10:21 PM EDT HealeyRick wrote: > >> > >> > >> > >> >If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: > >> > >> > > >> > >> >http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 > >> > >> > > >> > >> >Rick > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> >Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > >> > >> >_______________________________________________ > >> > >> >Healeys at autox.team.net > >> > >> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > >> >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > >> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> > >> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> > >> >Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > >> > > _______________________________________________ > >> > > Healeys at autox.team.net > >> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > >> > > > >> > > >> > -- > >> > Sent from my mobile device > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage : > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Oct 17 08:18:08 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 10:18:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> looked to me like the jag driver was just playing with him and could pull away whenever he wanted. just my observation. ---- Austin Healey wrote: ============= The other odd thing is that the Jag overtook the Healey in the straight very quickly. As before the Healey was always head-to--head or a little bit quicker, I would say that the Jag driver was pushing the engine above normal rev limit to avoid one shift. Aagin not a good decision on the long run. The Healey was quicker 60-70 percent of the track. Even he the Jag driver kills his engine he would have lost. Gergo 2011/10/17 Austin Healey > I think the Jag driver was aware that he entered the corner at too high > speed and wanted to reduce it before trying to turn the car in. He got > panicked when the blue car came in from the left. > This is for my eyes. > The Healey always took shorter brake distances, soo approched the corners > quicker. Not this time. The Jag was just a way to fast. Brake lights coming > in very late. > > At least as I see it. Hard situation anyway, and some money smoked. Hope > nobody got hurt. > > Gergo > > > 2011/10/17 WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > >> I'm not a racer, but it looked to me like the Jag was way off the line and >> moving way to fast for the corner. Wasn't that the place that blue car >> went >> off earlier? >> Very entertaining at any rate. >> Bill Lawrece >> >> > Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:20:54 +0800 >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa >> > From: healey.nut at gmail.com >> > To: ynotink at msn.com; jackson_krall at yahoo.com; healeyrick at yahoo.com; >> healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> > I'd love to blame it on the Jag as well, but it looked to me the car >> > that hit it was either taking a very dangerous line on the turn, or it >> > actually had some sort of steering failure. Watch it closely. >> > >> > Alan >> > >> > On 10/17/11, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> > > Yeah, that lightweight Jag near the end didn't take being passed very >> well. >> > > A >> > > perfect demonstration of the penalty for acting in anger... And what >> the >> > > hell >> > > are the specs for that car? Inquiring minds want to know... >> > > Bill Lawrence >> > > >> > >> Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:13:29 -0700 >> > >> From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com >> > >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com >> > >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa >> > >> >> > >> Who was that masked man!? He must be very angry. Those poor Jag >> drivers. >> A >> > > good reason why not to "upgrade" to one. The Cobra(?) at the end was >> the >> > > perfect cherry. >> > >> Best >> > >> JK >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> On Sat Oct 15th, 2011 10:21 PM EDT HealeyRick wrote: >> > >> >> > >> >If you're into big Healey vintage racing, you'll love this: >> > >> > >> > >> >http://youtu.be/UD7TjvMkHK0 >> > >> > >> > >> >Rick >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo >> > >> >_______________________________________________ >> > >> >Healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > >> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > >> >Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com >> > > _______________________________________________ >> > > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > >> > >> > -- >> > Sent from my mobile device >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Oct 17 08:44:54 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 09:44:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tabernacle? In-Reply-To: <8CE5AE14CED1092-1194-70DF3@webmail-d134.sysops.aol.com> References: <303a5.53e30a1f.3bca64e2@aol.com> <8CE5AE14CED1092-1194-70DF3@webmail-d134.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <456146123E2441889055C9DFD4DB4B61@GregPC> There are still odd bits sitting in Junkyards, Not far from me: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/healeydoors1.jpg http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/healeydoors2.jpg http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/fiatfrt.jpg The sheet metal has been sitting out for years, but the door handles, etc. are in surprisingly good shape. The last care is a farely rare Fiat 1200 from the early sixties I think. There are some interesting cars and parts out there. I used to go out there and pick up odd bits, anytime now it will probqbly all be sold for scrap, last couple years I have no longer been able to reach the owners, city says the yard is dhut down. Greg Lemon From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 09:19:25 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 02:19:25 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In-Reply-To: <8CE5AE813D88F94-1328-580B8@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE5AE813D88F94-1328-580B8@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <376E9589-3E1C-4867-869F-AA406B5B43B1@gmail.com> A 100/S block is a completely different animal to a 100 block, as Mike Salter has explained here: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/100r/100rengine.html Sent from my iPhone On 18/10/2011, at 12:30 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Speaking of distributors on the other side of the motor, I > understand that the > 100S used a standard 100 block but a different head with the intake > & exhaust > on the opposite (RH)side. But I have never read/heard how they moved > the > distributor to the opposite (LH) side of the block. Can someone > provide a > detailed description the 100S machining modifications that were > required for > the conversion? Also, out of curiosity, did anyone ever offer an > aftermarket > cross flow head for the 100? > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Alan Seigrist > To: Stephen Hutchings > Cc: healeys > Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2011 11:18 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details > > > I have seen them before, I think those caps would be for distributors > ounted on the other side of the motor, although not sure of the > pplication. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Oct 17 10:35:47 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 18:35:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tabernacle? In-Reply-To: <456146123E2441889055C9DFD4DB4B61@GregPC> References: <303a5.53e30a1f.3bca64e2@aol.com> <8CE5AE14CED1092-1194-70DF3@webmail-d134.sysops.aol.com> <456146123E2441889055C9DFD4DB4B61@GregPC> Message-ID: <4E9C5963.30507@chello.nl> The FIAT? is a rare car anywhere in the world. The visible parts certainly look restorable and in reasonable state considering. Are you sure it is a FIAT and not an INNOCENTI (AH Sprite with and Italian body) Kees Oudesluijs Op 17-10-2011 16:44, Greg Lemon schreef: > There are still odd bits sitting in Junkyards, > > Not far from me: > > http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/healeydoors1.jpg > > http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/healeydoors2.jpg > > http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/fiatfrt.jpg > > The sheet metal has been sitting out for years, but the door handles, > etc. are in surprisingly good shape. > > The last care is a farely rare Fiat 1200 from the early sixties I > think. There are some interesting cars and parts out there. > > I used to go out there and pick up odd bits, anytime now it will > probqbly all be sold for scrap, last couple years I have no longer > been able to reach the owners, city says the yard is dhut down. > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2090/4557 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/17/11 From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Oct 17 12:57:50 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 13:57:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tabernacle? In-Reply-To: <4E9C5963.30507@chello.nl> References: <303a5.53e30a1f.3bca64e2@aol.com> <8CE5AE14CED1092-1194-70DF3@webmail-d134.sysops.aol.com> <456146123E2441889055C9DFD4DB4B61@GregPC> <4E9C5963.30507@chello.nl> Message-ID: <531D55F7E7074B3D92DBBF04954BAE54@GregPC> It is definitely a Fiat, the basic shell is there, but has been sitting outdoors for probably decades, floors gone, as I recall the valve cover and maybe the head is off the motor, so no protected very well, all that might still be good is probably body, wheels and some trim bits. Greg From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 13:10:12 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 15:10:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> References: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: Pretty obviously, whatever else was going on, the guy (well that's an assumpton) knew more about race driving than pretty much anyone else on the course, and many of the other drivers knew it, too. Can you really shift a standard Healey tranny that quickly? I know I can't. Bob Johnson BJ8 From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 13:24:01 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 15:24:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin Message-ID: The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? Thanks, Bob Johnson BJ8 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Oct 17 14:41:20 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 07:41:20 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In-Reply-To: <376E9589-3E1C-4867-869F-AA406B5B43B1@gmail.com> References: <8CE5AE813D88F94-1328-580B8@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com> <376E9589-3E1C-4867-869F-AA406B5B43B1@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0E36EFD5F54B409AB611B294B8A7F446@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day As far as it is known there were no aftermarket cross-flow cylinder heads for the 100 engine. However there were a number of oddities. The Hunter DOHC cylinder head was a crossflow design, but in the end there were problems keeping it all together. The standard 100S head was not crossflow, but there were a few made that were (to a degree). They were cast up to allow the fitting of four SU H6 carburettors with two on either side of the cylinder head. The exhaust pipe continued to run down the driver's side (RHD car). So it was cross flow. Then towards the end of Austin-Healey production Geoff Healey was advocating the reuse of the four-cylinder engine in 2.5 litre form with a cross-flow cylinder head. (It was still in production in diesel form for the London style taxi) In that form it was lighter and delivered a better power to weight ratio than the standard BJ8. GCH was a staunch four-cylinder supporter, however the powers that be within Leyland were hell bent on the Austin-Healey badged MGC, which Donald would not agree with. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2011 2:19 AM To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) A 100/S block is a completely different animal to a 100 block, as Mike Salter has explained here: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/100r/100rengine.html Sent from my iPhone On 18/10/2011, at 12:30 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Speaking of distributors on the other side of the motor, I > understand that the > 100S used a standard 100 block but a different head with the intake > & exhaust > on the opposite (RH)side. But I have never read/heard how they moved > the > distributor to the opposite (LH) side of the block. Can someone > provide a > detailed description the 100S machining modifications that were > required for > the conversion? Also, out of curiosity, did anyone ever offer an > aftermarket > cross flow head for the 100? > Gary Hodson From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 15:31:35 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 14:31:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You might try looking in the throat of the carb when pushing the pin. On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 12:24 PM, Bob Johnson wrote: > The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have > a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it > seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though > it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is > this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when > have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? > > Thanks, > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Oct 17 16:00:55 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 15:00:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tabernacle? In-Reply-To: <4E9C5963.30507@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1318888855.69112.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Looks like a FIAT 1200 Cabriolet. The Innocenti didn't have a hood scoop. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 10/17/11, Oudesluys wrote: From: Oudesluys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tabernacle? To: "Greg Lemon" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Monday, October 17, 2011, 12:35 PM The FIAT? is a rare car anywhere in the world. The visible parts certainly look restorable and in reasonable state considering. Are you sure it is a FIAT and not an INNOCENTI (AH Sprite with and Italian body) Kees Oudesluijs From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 16:04:24 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 06:04:24 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob - Probably my best skill is in balancing carbs. The lifting pin is useless. Always better to take the air cleaners off and use a small screwdriver to lift the dashpot pistons by hand. Regards, Alan On 10/18/11, Bob Johnson wrote: > The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have > a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it > seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though > it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is > this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when > have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? > > Thanks, > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Oct 17 16:15:36 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 15:15:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31B0867B-7240-4C52-8DF9-EF9B2D28C0DC@cox.net> That little pin is seriously misunderstood. Yes, you are correct, lift it 'til you contact the piston rim,then lift 1/32". You guys realize that 1/32 is a tiny increment, right? All it needs is a tiny little nudge to do what it's supposed to do. What's odd about it is that if you lift much further than that tiny little nudge, the behavior of the engine is completely different, often leading to the wrong conclusion about the mixture. Wilko On Oct 17, 2011, at 12:24 PM, Bob Johnson wrote: > The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have > a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it > seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though > it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is > this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when > have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? > > Thanks, > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 17 16:23:14 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 15:23:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111017151934.0211dc28@pop.att.yahoo.com> Good question. I have a set of HS4 carbs on my workbench right now. The pin moves about 1/4" before it hits the piston. After that, 1/32" is a very slight movement that I doubt I have ever achieved. When I tune my carbs I just move the pin and listen for the very slight changes in engine operation described in the workshop manual. John At 03:24 PM 10/17/2011 -0400, Bob Johnson wrote: >Does anyone have a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? >Bob Johnson >BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 17 17:12:55 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 23:12:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1044196741.608759.1318893175533.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> There's an inexpensive SU tuning kit that is little more than a couple plastic tubes you stick in the inner part of the vacuum piston, and a couple of bent wires you stick in the tubes (there's also a handy jet-centering 'tool;' it's almost worth buying the kit just for that). Anyway, you put the tubes in the vacuum pistons then set the wires in so they point exactly to each other. Then, when you lift the pin you can see the wire rise; the wire is about 1/32" thick so when it rises one of its widths you're close. Yes, the pin goes up a ways before it contacts the base of the vacuum piston. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? Thanks, Bob Johnson BJ8 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Oct 17 17:39:41 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 16:39:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Martin Jansen Message-ID: <1318894781.84834.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> This was posted on the BCF by "CaliforniaKid" I have no further info but wish Marty the best: "Dear Friends, I am putting up this post as an FYI... Martin Jansen of Jule Eneterprises recently had to be hospitalized and recieve treatment for his heart. I understand he is recovering and heading home soon, if not already there. As you all probably know, Martin has been a big participant in the Austin Healey community for some time - providing probably the best frame available for our cars. For well-wishers, I suggest sending a note by post to his office (he's not as big on web and/or e-mail as some of us). If you call, you may get a member of his staff who may not have any further information than I have stated here... This notice is one small way I can say 'Thank-You' to him for the work he has done for me over the last two years." Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 17:49:43 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 19:49:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob-- By removing the air filters you should be able to look down the throat of the carbs and see how much the pistons rise. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 3:24 PM, Bob Johnson wrote: > The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have > a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it > seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though > it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is > this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when > have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? > > Thanks, > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 18:06:14 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey]) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 11:06:14 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: References: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: Did a bit of googling.... Here's an outdated CV of the driver: http://www.campfield.co.uk/index.php?page=marc-campfield and his father: http://www.campfield.co.uk/index.php?page=paul-campfield Pretty impressive family of Healey drivers..... Chris On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 6:10 AM, Bob Johnson wrote: > Pretty obviously, whatever else was going on, the guy (well that's an > assumpton) knew more about race driving than pretty much anyone else > on the course, and many of the other drivers knew it, too. Can you > really shift a standard Healey tranny that quickly? I know I can't. > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Oct 17 18:19:34 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 20:19:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: <31B0867B-7240-4C52-8DF9-EF9B2D28C0DC@cox.net> References: <31B0867B-7240-4C52-8DF9-EF9B2D28C0DC@cox.net> Message-ID: <001601cc8d2b$9d6d2df0$d84789d0$@rr.com> I agree that the lifting pin is useless. At least, it always has been for me. The front pin is buried in a place where it's impossible for me to get a finger on it. I never seem to get any discernible reaction from lifting either pin until the engine stumbles. Bob, get a Colortune tool and you can ignore the lifting pin. Colortune lets you set the mixtures by watching the color of the flame in the cylinder as you turn the jet lever screw. Piece of cake. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 6:16 PM Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb lifting pin That little pin is seriously misunderstood. Yes, you are correct, lift it 'til you contact the piston rim,then lift 1/32". You guys realize that 1/32 is a tiny increment, right? All it needs is a tiny little nudge to do what it's supposed to do. What's odd about it is that if you lift much further than that tiny little nudge, the behavior of the engine is completely different, often leading to the wrong conclusion about the mixture. Wilko On Oct 17, 2011, at 12:24 PM, Bob Johnson wrote: > The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have > a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it > seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though > it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is > this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when > have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? > > Thanks, > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 From JPayne at ThorCon.net Mon Oct 17 18:59:29 2011 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 17:59:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield header rubber - BJ8 Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18C78@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> So, the 2nd product has now failed to adhere the rubber seal to the "lip" on my convertible top (the rubber gasket that makes the seal against the windshield top). 1st I used a rubber cement that supposedly attaches rubber trim to cars. The 2nd one was a 2 part epoxy that supposedly does the same thing. The epoxy has left behind a hard "plastic" on the header rail, but didn't stick to the rubber. What product should I be using for this? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Oct 17 19:02:45 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 18:02:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1318899765.613.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> The U.K. driver is Marc Campfield. Here's his C.V.: http://www.campfield.co.uk/index.php?page=marc-campfield I think he knows his way around a racecourse. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 10/17/11, Bob Johnson wrote: From: Bob Johnson Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa To: "Healeys" Date: Monday, October 17, 2011, 3:10 PM Pretty obviously, whatever else was going on, the guy (well that's an assumpton) knew more about race driving than pretty much anyone else on the course, and many of the other drivers knew it, too. Can you really shift a standard Healey tranny that quickly? I know I can't. Bob Johnson BJ8 From warthodson at aol.com Mon Oct 17 19:04:10 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 21:04:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: References: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: <8CE5B48FA375171-1448-43C33@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> It sounded like it might be a close ratio straight cut gear set in the gear box. I am not sure if they use synchronizers or if they have dog gears, like in a motorcycle gear box. They can be shifted very quickly. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Johnson To: Healeys Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2011 3:25 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa Pretty obviously, whatever else was going on, the guy (well that's an ssumpton) knew more about race driving than pretty much anyone else n the course, and many of the other drivers knew it, too. Can you eally shift a standard Healey tranny that quickly? I know I can't. Bob Johnson J8 From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Oct 17 19:20:50 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 19:20:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: <1044196741.608759.1318893175533.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1044196741.608759.1318893175533.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <906FC56CE10E4BCF833908E1A9DFCCB2@oscar> Here's the way it works, IMO... what is important is what changes are heard in the first second or two.. it speeds up or dies or nothing at all. The throttle butterfly is in a fixed position so when the piston is lifted the airflow across the jet head is "disrupted" or kills the velocity might be better. (probably a better word out there, but my dog just bit a neighbor's dog and I'm a bit distracted). So if it picks up slightly it is a little rich or lean if it slows. As I mentioned last week, it's better to err on the rich side for the reasons mentioned then. I'm heading in to the couch or the animal control center soon, so I may not be able to defend my explanation till later... dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 5:13 PM To: Bob Johnson Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb lifting pin There's an inexpensive SU tuning kit that is little more than a couple plastic tubes you stick in the inner part of the vacuum piston, and a couple of bent wires you stick in the tubes (there's also a handy jet-centering 'tool;' it's almost worth buying the kit just for that). Anyway, you put the tubes in the vacuum pistons then set the wires in so they point exactly to each other. Then, when you lift the pin you can see the wire rise; the wire is about 1/32" thick so when it rises one of its widths you're close. Yes, the pin goes up a ways before it contacts the base of the vacuum piston. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? Thanks, Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Oct 17 19:30:38 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 20:30:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111017151934.0211dc28@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111017151934.0211dc28@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0A535AAB55264EF297B726600742E6AD@GregPC> Everybody has different feel and experiences, that being said I have driven SU carb cars for 30+ years now and always worked on them myself. I find the pin trick pretty much useless, I can move the carb adjustment a number of flats or even turns either way and get the same result from the test, maybe my hands and ears just aren't sensitive enough, I also struggle with getting 1/32" of an inch on static item, let alone a vibrating motor. A proper mixture should pretty much run fine (from cold) on a hot day from start or with no or very little warm up and might or might not need choke to start, take a some choke to start and for a very little while on a cool day, under a minute or so, and take more choke for a longer period of time on a cold (like below freezing) day, and once warmed up in the varying fuzzy amount of times noted take throttle under load without missing or hesitation. Tune as above, read the plugs from the color picture charts in the books and on the internet. if they look like they should you should be good to go. My opinion and experience, your mileage may vary, but has always worked for me. Greg Lemon From warthodson at aol.com Mon Oct 17 19:34:16 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 21:34:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) Message-ID: <8CE5B4D2ECEFA3D-1448-443B7@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> Mike's article is very interesting, but I am not sure it answers my original question. Let me restate it. It is my understanding that the 100S engine used a 100 engine block. Was the 100S engine based on using use a 100 engine block casting (before it had been machined) and then machining it to 100S specifications or was it based on using an already machine 100 engine block & modifying it where necesssary? Also, how did they move the distributor from one side to the other side? I cannot picture how the distrbutor would be mounted on the side of the block not originally intended for the distributor. Also, how was the distributor driven? Finally, based on Mike's article, what did the factory deal with moving the head studs for the 100S engine? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Chris Dimmock To: warthodson Cc: healey.nut ; s.hutchings ; healeys Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2011 10:19 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) A 100/S block is a completely different animal to a 100 block, as Mike alter has explained here: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/100r/100rengine.html ent from my iPhone On 18/10/2011, at 12:30 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Speaking of distributors on the other side of the motor, I understand that the 100S used a standard 100 block but a different head with the intake & exhaust on the opposite (RH)side. But I have never read/heard how they moved the distributor to the opposite (LH) side of the block. Can someone provide a detailed description the 100S machining modifications that were required for the conversion? Also, out of curiosity, did anyone ever offer an aftermarket cross flow head for the 100? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Stephen Hutchings Cc: healeys Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2011 11:18 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details I have seen them before, I think those caps would be for distributors ounted on the other side of the motor, although not sure of the pplication. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com -----Original Message----- From: Chris Dimmock To: warthodson Cc: healey.nut ; s.hutchings ; healeys Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2011 10:19 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) A 100/S block is a completely different animal to a 100 block, as Mike alter has explained here: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/100r/100rengine.html ent from my iPhone On 18/10/2011, at 12:30 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Speaking of distributors on the other side of the motor, I understand that the 100S used a standard 100 block but a different head with the intake & exhaust on the opposite (RH)side. But I have never read/heard how they moved the distributor to the opposite (LH) side of the block. Can someone provide a detailed description the 100S machining modifications that were required for the conversion? Also, out of curiosity, did anyone ever offer an aftermarket cross flow head for the 100? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Stephen Hutchings Cc: healeys Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2011 11:18 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details I have seen them before, I think those caps would be for distributors ounted on the other side of the motor, although not sure of the pplication. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Oct 17 19:36:25 2011 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 21:36:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Original Austin Healey Book Message-ID: <20111017.183638.960.252966@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> I recently purchased a copy of Clausager's book "Original Austin-Healey", only to find I already had a copy. Really need to clean up the Healey room!! Anyway, I'll let it go for $25.00 with free media mail shipping. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 21:19:50 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 11:19:50 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield header rubber - BJ8 In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18C78@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18C78@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: Probably there are other better suggestions out there, but I used 3M Upholstery adhesive with good results. It keeps a good seal when the hood's up and locked down and the seal hasn't come off in 25 years. No water leaking at all. On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > So, the 2nd product has now failed to adhere the rubber seal to the > "lip" on my convertible top (the rubber gasket that makes the seal > against the windshield top). > > 1st I used a rubber cement that supposedly attaches rubber trim to cars. > The 2nd one was a 2 part epoxy that supposedly does the same thing. > > The epoxy has left behind a hard "plastic" on the header rail, but > didn't stick to the rubber. > > What product should I be using for this? > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Oct 17 21:30:21 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 23:30:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield header rubber - BJ8 In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18C78@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18C78@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <000001cc8d46$4443e870$cccbb950$@net> Jonas, You'll need to somehow clean off all the old glue and epoxy. Then use a good old fashioned stinky liquid brush on type contact cement, applied to both surfaces, wait 15 minutes then bond. The water based green stuff is no good and can break down with heat and moisture. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne Sent: 2011-10-17 8:59 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Windshield header rubber - BJ8 So, the 2nd product has now failed to adhere the rubber seal to the "lip" on my convertible top (the rubber gasket that makes the seal against the windshield top). 1st I used a rubber cement that supposedly attaches rubber trim to cars. The 2nd one was a 2 part epoxy that supposedly does the same thing. The epoxy has left behind a hard "plastic" on the header rail, but didn't stick to the rubber. What product should I be using for this? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Oct 17 23:22:53 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 16:22:53 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In-Reply-To: <8CE5B4D2ECEFA3D-1448-443B7@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE5B4D2ECEFA3D-1448-443B7@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: G'day Gary Let's just say that both engines had the same forebears. Had to call Steve Pike who confirmed my memory of the differences. The engine blocks for 100 and the 100S were two separate castings and quite dissimilar. However Steve says that it is possible to convert a 100 block into a 100S replica, but it takes about 30 hours of machining by someone who knows what they are doing. They do of course have very different cylinder heads. For instance the head stud configuration is different with the studs on the 100S being of a triangular pattern around each cylinder. So the answer is to machine plugs to be inserted into the 100 stud holes and drill/machine new ones in the 100S pattern. There are a myriad of other differences such as the generator is mounted on the opposite side. As to the distributor, yes it exits the engine on the opposite side. Both the distributor and tach drive exit the engine from the same place as the tach drive exits the 100 block. Both are connected to a common shaft that is driven off the oil pump. Not too unlike the six-cylinder arrangement. To think that I said no to buying a 100S in 1975 when the asking price was $3,500. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2011 12:34 PM To: austin.healey at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) Mike's article is very interesting, but I am not sure it answers my original question. Let me restate it. It is my understanding that the 100S engine used a 100 engine block. Was the 100S engine based on using use a 100 engine block casting (before it had been machined) and then machining it to 100S specifications or was it based on using an already machine 100 engine block & modifying it where necesssary? Also, how did they move the distributor from one side to the other side? I cannot picture how the distrbutor would be mounted on the side of the block not originally intended for the distributor. Also, how was the distributor driven? Finally, based on Mike's article, what did the factory deal with moving the head studs for the 100S engine? Gary Hodson From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Oct 18 00:22:14 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 08:22:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9D1B16.3020108@chello.nl> I never used the pin on the SU's on the Spitfire I had years ago, I simply used a flat blade screwdriver to lift the piston slightly and went from there. Later on I used the ColorTune to set the mixtures and did away with the awkward "lifting piston" procedure. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 17-10-2011 23:31, Richard Ewald schreef: > You might try looking in the throat of the carb when pushing the pin. > > On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 12:24 PM, Bob Johnson wrote: > >> The fuel mixture thread talked about the lifting pin. Does anyone have >> a good way to tell when you have raised the pin 1/32"? On my car it >> seems as though the pin raises maybe 1/16" before it feels as though >> it is contacting anything and then I start to raise the needle. Is >> this right? How can I tell if I'm actually raising anything and when >> have I raised the pin 1/32" when I can't see anything? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Bob Johnson >> BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2090/4557 - datum van uitgifte: 10/17/11 From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Oct 18 03:31:48 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 20:31:48 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In-Reply-To: <8CE5B4D2ECEFA3D-1448-443B7@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE5B4D2ECEFA3D-1448-443B7@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Hey Gary, Your basic premise is not correct. Production 100 blocks are different casting blocks. That's what Mike said in the article I referenced, and that's what Patrick said. If the blocks were the same casting, then the material would be there to redrill a 100 block to accept the 100/S studs. Wouldn't it? Same casting??? Did you read Mike's article? He had to add material. It wasn't in the casting of a std 100/4 block. Yes, you can add material. You can remachine. You can "make" a 100 block into a 100/S. 30 hours of a skilled machinist. Dennis welch even quotes it as a "call us" price. But that's not how the factory made 100/S blocks. They started with a different casting. A great machinist can make a 2.6 litre 100/6 block into a 3 litre. A great machinist can make a 948cc Bugeye into 1220cc A great machinist can make a 2 inch SU into a 2 1/8" carb at the butterfly A great machinist can make a 2.2 litre Austin A70 head fit a 100/4 A great machinist can make a 100/4 block take a 100/S head. But that's not what the factory did. That made a new casting. And machined it accordingly. Sent from my iPhone On 18/10/2011, at 12:34 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Mike's article is very interesting, but I am not sure it answers my > original question. Let me restate it. It is my understanding that > the 100S engine used a 100 engine block. Was the 100S engine based > on using use a 100 engine block casting (before it had been > machined) and then machining it to 100S specifications or was it > based on using an already machine 100 engine block & modifying it > where necesssary? Also, how did they move the distributor from one > side to the other side? I cannot picture how the distrbutor would be > mounted on the side of the block not originally intended for the > distributor. Also, how was the distributor driven? Finally, based on > Mike's article, what did the factory deal with moving the head > studs for the 100S engine? > Gary Hodson > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Chris Dimmock > To: warthodson > Cc: healey.nut ; s.hutchings >; healeys > Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2011 10:19 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap > orientation-details) > > A 100/S block is a completely different animal to a 100 block, as Mike > Salter has explained here: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/100r/100rengine.html > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 18/10/2011, at 12:30 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > > > Speaking of distributors on the other side of the motor, I > > understand that the > > 100S used a standard 100 block but a different head with the intake > > & exhaust > > on the opposite (RH)side. But I have never read/heard how they moved > > the > > distributor to the opposite (LH) side of the block. Can someone > > provide a > > detailed description the 100S machining modifications that were > > required for > > the conversion? Also, out of curiosity, did anyone ever offer an > > aftermarket > > cross flow head for the 100? > > Gary Hodson > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Alan Seigrist > > To: Stephen Hutchings > > Cc: healeys > > Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2011 11:18 pm > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor cap orientation-details > > > > > > I have seen them before, I think those caps would be for > distributors > > ounted on the other side of the motor, although not sure of the > > pplication. > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Oct 18 04:15:42 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 03:15:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Need BJ7 Seat Belt Bracket Location Message-ID: <1318932942.25254.YahooMailClassic@web161210.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> The BJ7 (and I think the BJ8 as well) has two holes drilled in the floor for the outboard seat belt bracket (the one with the removable mounting pin). I've done such a great job insulating the top and bottom of my floorboards, I can't find the holes now that it's time to mount the bracket. Can anyone give me some measurements from the inside sill and rear bulkhead so I can start dousing for the holes? Thanks in advance Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Oct 18 07:16:03 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 07:16:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield header rubber - BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18C78@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <54A3819D0A0A41BBA9B47B4B7E75D0DD@oscar> Sounds like a job for the Permatex product called the "Right Stuff" it's basically rubber in a can. I've used it with great success to hold window glass in the regulator channel. It is compressible so works well as a seal. Allow 24 hours for it to cure. Great product at all auto parts stores. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 9:20 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield header rubber - BJ8 Probably there are other better suggestions out there, but I used 3M Upholstery adhesive with good results. It keeps a good seal when the hood's up and locked down and the seal hasn't come off in 25 years. No water leaking at all. On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > So, the 2nd product has now failed to adhere the rubber seal to the > "lip" on my convertible top (the rubber gasket that makes the seal > against the windshield top). > > 1st I used a rubber cement that supposedly attaches rubber trim to cars. > The 2nd one was a 2 part epoxy that supposedly does the same thing. > > The epoxy has left behind a hard "plastic" on the header rail, but > didn't stick to the rubber. > > What product should I be using for this? > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Oct 18 11:32:57 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 10:32:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In-Reply-To: <0E36EFD5F54B409AB611B294B8A7F446@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <20111018133257.TNNCF.73623.imail@fed1rmwml46> In the early 90s Geoffrey built a high rev engine from that 2.5 litre deisel: "The Austin diesel engine has a bullet-proof block and crankshaft to withstand the 22:1 compression ratio necessary to run a compression ignition engine and therefore overcome the inherent weakness of the original A90 petrol engine. Both Dave Jeffery of SC Austin Healey Parts and John Chatham were keen to see if Geoff's original proposals could be made to work. Design and development started seriously at the beginning of 1990. It was decided to retain the shorter stroke of the diesel engine (101.5 mm compared to 111mm for the A90) in order to allow a higher revving engine and to avoid alterations to the substantial crankshaft. This is a nitrided EN40B forging with larger bearing sizes than the original. The block was over bored into the water passages, and then linered using specially made thick wall liners. These were then bored to virtually 91 mm for a capacity of 2615cc ( compared with 2670cc originally ). Ford Sierra Cosworth pistons were used and new con rods specially made ( the diesel rods being much too heavy for a high revving engine). The top of the diesel block has a multitude of studs, non of which lined up with the holes for the petrol cylinder head. Two studs were very close and one of SC's new 100/4 alloy heads was machined specially to suit these. The rest of the studs in the block face were blanked off and the remainder of the studs required to fit the head specially drilled. All of the studs were specially made in EN24 heat treated to 80 tons to enable torquing up to 125 lb ft. Because of the engine family resemblance, the pushrod holes and combustion chambers lined up well enough." The whole article is here at Larry Varley's awesome website: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/chatham.html Wilko ---- Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Then towards the end of Austin-Healey production Geoff Healey was advocating > the reuse of the four-cylinder engine in 2.5 litre form with a cross-flow > cylinder head. (It was still in production in diesel form for the London > style taxi) In that form it was lighter and delivered a better power to > weight ratio than the standard BJ8. GCH was a staunch four-cylinder > supporter, however the powers that be within Leyland were hell bent on the > Austin-Healey badged MGC, which Donald would not agree with. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock > Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2011 2:19 AM > To: warthodson at aol.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap > orientation-details) > > A 100/S block is a completely different animal to a 100 block, as Mike > Salter has explained here: > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/100r/100rengine.html > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 18/10/2011, at 12:30 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > > > Speaking of distributors on the other side of the motor, I > > understand that the > > 100S used a standard 100 block but a different head with the intake > > & exhaust > > on the opposite (RH)side. But I have never read/heard how they moved > > the > > distributor to the opposite (LH) side of the block. Can someone > > provide a > > detailed description the 100S machining modifications that were > > required for > > the conversion? Also, out of curiosity, did anyone ever offer an > > aftermarket > > cross flow head for the 100? > > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Oct 18 12:56:02 2011 From: paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk (Paul Baker) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 19:56:02 +0100 (BST) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Vintage Racing at Spa In-Reply-To: <8CE5B48FA375171-1448-43C33@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> References: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> <8CE5B48FA375171-1448-43C33@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1318964162.4833.YahooMailNeo@web29604.mail.ird.yahoo.com> The background to this clip is that Marc (Campfield) had to start at the back of the grid due to mechanical problems in qualifying. It was a one hour race and at the start he would have had about 120 litres of fuel on board but he would have been keen to get past the back markers. As you can tell Marc is a very talented young driver in his father's 3000 that is also raced in our UK based Healeysport race series. He was also racing on Dunlop L section tyres which would explain the amount of movement at the rear of the car and his gearbox would be a Healey box with either a 'Tulip' or more likely 'Sebring' gearset . The interesting part is that he filmed this by taping his iphone to the windscreen, which presumably explains why it stopped at 18 minutes. For info - other 3000, that was hit by the E type, was driven by Chris Clarkson, who also takes part in our series. Cheers Paul From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Oct 18 14:22:54 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Blue Healey) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 21:22:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In-Reply-To: <20111018133257.TNNCF.73623.imail@fed1rmwml46> References: <0E36EFD5F54B409AB611B294B8A7F446@PatrickQuinnPC> <20111018133257.TNNCF.73623.imail@fed1rmwml46> Message-ID: Hey Wilko I thought I had seen all the content on Larry's site and then you come up with that excellent page. I have searched the Larry's home page again and still can't find the link. Thanks for sharing. _____________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) http://tinyurl.com/healeyforum -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of e-wilkins at cox.net Sent: 18 October 2011 18:33 Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In the early 90s Geoffrey built a high rev engine from that 2.5 litre deisel: "The Austin diesel engine has a bullet-proof block and crankshaft to withstand the 22:1 compression ratio necessary to run a compression ignition engine and therefore overcome the inherent weakness of the original A90 petrol engine. Both Dave Jeffery of SC Austin Healey Parts and John Chatham were keen to see if Geoff's original proposals could be made to work. Design and development started seriously at the beginning of 1990. It was decided to retain the shorter stroke of the diesel engine (101.5 mm compared to 111mm for the A90) in order to allow a higher revving engine and to avoid alterations to the substantial crankshaft. This is a nitrided EN40B forging with larger bearing sizes than the original. The block was over bored into the water passages, and then linered using specially made thick wall liners. These were then bored to virtually 91 mm for a capacity of 2615cc ( compared with 2670cc originally ). Ford Sierra Cosworth pistons were used and new con rods specially made ( the diesel rods being much too heavy for a high revving engine). The top of the diesel block has a multitude of studs, non of which lined up with the holes for the petrol cylinder head. Two studs were very close and one of SC's new 100/4 alloy heads was machined specially to suit these. The rest of the studs in the block face were blanked off and the remainder of the studs required to fit the head specially drilled. All of the studs were specially made in EN24 heat treated to 80 tons to enable torquing up to 125 lb ft. Because of the engine family resemblance, the pushrod holes and combustion chambers lined up well enough." The whole article is here at Larry Varley's awesome website: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/chatham.html Wilko From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com Tue Oct 18 14:31:32 2011 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 22:31:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications Message-ID: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> DW makes the heads, but there could be others.. http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/100s-aluminium-cylinder-heads Kilmartin brothers do the chassis parts to a great level of detail.. At this point, a good replica is probably a matter of $$$$$.. :-) BR, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2011 12:34 PM To: austin.healey at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) Mike's article is very interesting, but I am not sure it answers my original question. Let me restate it. It is my understanding that the 100S engine used a 100 engine block. Was the 100S engine based on using use a 100 engine block casting (before it had been machined) and then machining it to 100S specifications or was it based on using an already machine 100 engine block & modifying it where necesssary? Also, how did they move the distributor from one side to the other side? I cannot picture how the distrbutor would be mounted on the side of the block not originally intended for the distributor. Also, how was the distributor driven? Finally, based on Mike's article, what did the factory deal with moving the head studs for the 100S engine? Gary Hodson ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys End of Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 725 *************************************** From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Tue Oct 18 15:58:58 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 17:58:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: <4E9D1B16.3020108@chello.nl> References: <4E9D1B16.3020108@chello.nl> Message-ID: As usual, a wealth of info and ideas. Think I'll try ColorTune as a next first try. Thanks to all who responded. Bob Johnson BJ8 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 18 17:12:58 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 16:12:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use bronze valve guides in a cast iron head. My engine is basically stock. I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast iron (stock I presume) and the other is manganese-bronze. What material should I use for the valve guides. What is a good source to purchase them from? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 18 17:29:51 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 16:29:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: compression electrical Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018161321.020a6dc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Many thanks to all that responded about my compression test. Most recommended that I do a leak down test. At it turned out I could not get enough juice to turn the engine over for a compression test. It is recommended that a leak down test be done on a warm engine but I had to do it cold because it was out of the car. I purchased a US General leak down tester from Harbor Freight but I question the accuracy for several reasons. The instructions say connect the air, screw the tester into the cylinder and then set the tester side of the gauge to zero. This produced a very uniform reading of about 2% per cylinder. Youtube videos show one connecting the air, setting the gauge to zero then connecting it to the cylinder to be tested. This generally showed a 20% loss per cylinder although a couple were lower and higher. I tested the cylinders four times and the readings varied. If I throw out the low and the average is: 1-20%, 2-19%, 3-24%, 4-23%, 5-18%, 6-19% A 1998 compression test right after the head was rebuilt was: 1-140psi, 2-130-135psi, 3-135-140psi, 4-125psi, 5-125-130psi, 6-125-130psi. On with the work. John >Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 21:50:40 -0700 >To: healeys at autox.team.net >From: john spaur >Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical > >So... I need to do a compression test. >John Spaur From rpschauss at gmail.com Tue Oct 18 17:52:27 2011 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 19:52:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb lifting pin In-Reply-To: <1044196741.608759.1318893175533.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4e9e1138.06afe00a.181e.5ae8@mx.google.com> I use the wires themselves to lift the vacuum pistons since one of my lifting pins sticks. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 7:13 PM > To: Bob Johnson > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb lifting pin > > There's an inexpensive SU tuning kit that is little more than a couple > plastic tubes you stick in the inner part of the vacuum piston, and a > couple of bent wires you stick in the tubes (there's also a handy jet- > centering 'tool;' it's almost worth buying the kit just for that). > > Anyway, you put the tubes in the vacuum pistons then set the wires in so > they point exactly to each other. Then, when you lift the pin you can see > the wire rise; the wire is about 1/32" thick so when it rises one of its > widths you're close. > > Yes, the pin goes up a ways before it contacts the base of the vacuum > piston. > > Bob From drmasucci at comcast.net Tue Oct 18 18:28:18 2011 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 20:28:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? References: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> <8CE5B48FA375171-1448-43C33@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <9DA6E79642444776AF0B0489AC865088@lab092908> Most of us know of the Sebring Healey replicas. Well I stumbled onto this page displaying a new version from Sebring International. I guess it's a modern interpretation of a Healey. Hmmm....let's see what you all think. The front has a bit of '54 Corvette. The front part of the front fender (wing!) with the sloped headlight reminds me of present day Mercedes. Curious to see a rear view. Go to the link below, and go a little more than a third of the way down the page. http://autopark.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html Dave BJ8 From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Tue Oct 18 18:59:57 2011 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 20:59:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications In-Reply-To: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Gary, I'll try to answer your questions. I'm not an expert on casting techniques but. as far as I can figure, to make the 100S block the pattern for the deck of the block was changed with repositioned bosses for the studs and incidentally more material where the generator would eventually mount. Moving the distributor to the other side of the block was necessitated by the manifolds which were located on the right side of the 100S head. The actual process of moving the distributor was not too difficult because there is already a 1/2 engine speed quill shaft over there which is used to drive the tachometer in the original 100 configuration. All they had to do was cast up a special pedestal, incorporating a tachometer drive (just like the one used on the pre BJ8 6 cylinder cars) and bolt it on. Michael Salter On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 4:31 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote: > DW makes the heads, but there could be others.. > > http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/100s-aluminium-cylinder-heads > > Kilmartin brothers do the chassis parts to a great level of detail.. > > At this point, a good replica is probably a matter of $$$$$.. :-) > > BR, Tadek > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2011 12:34 PM > To: austin.healey at gmail.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap > orientation-details) > > Mike's article is very interesting, but I am not sure it answers my > original > question. Let me restate it. It is my understanding that the 100S engine > used a 100 engine block. Was the 100S engine based on using use a 100 > engine > block casting (before it had been machined) and then machining it to 100S > specifications or was it based on using an already machine 100 engine block > & modifying it where necesssary? Also, how did they move the distributor > from one side to the other side? I cannot picture how the distrbutor would > be mounted on the side of the block not originally intended for the > distributor. > Also, how was the distributor driven? Finally, based on Mike's article, > what > did the factory deal with moving the head studs for the 100S engine? > Gary Hodson > > > ------------------------------ > > _ From drmasucci at comcast.net Tue Oct 18 19:19:51 2011 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 21:19:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Exalt References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018161321.020a6dc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: More pics of the Exalt. http://www.sebringinternational.co.uk/exalt.html From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Tue Oct 18 20:01:30 2011 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 22:01:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi John, Before you make the decision please read my blog post on the subject http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?s=bronze+valve+guides Michael Salter On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 7:12 PM, john spaur wrote: > I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use bronze valve > guides in a cast iron head. My engine is basically stock. > > I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast iron (stock > I presume) and the other is manganese-bronze. > > What material should I use for the valve guides. > > What is a good source to purchase them from? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/msalter@**precisionsportscar.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Oct 18 20:27:37 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 22:27:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: compression electrical In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018161321.020a6dc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018161321.020a6dc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John-- I am not clear on the "setting it to zero" part. I set the first guage measuring input pressure to 100 psi simply to give an easy frame of reference, then crack open the valve for the other guage and when the cylinder is at TDC with both intake and exhaust valves closed get the percentage reading. Judging by your readings of 18% to 24% you are iin for a valve job at the very least, maybe more. Perhaps you want to recheck your method and yes it is best to do this with a warm engine. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 7:29 PM, john spaur wrote: > Many thanks to all that responded about my compression test. Most > recommended that I do a leak down test. At it turned out I could not get > enough juice to turn the engine over for a compression test. It is > recommended that a leak down test be done on a warm engine but I had to do > it cold because it was out of the car. > > I purchased a US General leak down tester from Harbor Freight but I > question the accuracy for several reasons. The instructions say connect the > air, screw the tester into the cylinder and then set the tester side of the > gauge to zero. This produced a very uniform reading of about 2% per > cylinder. > > Youtube videos show one connecting the air, setting the gauge to zero then > connecting it to the cylinder to be tested. This generally showed a 20% loss > per cylinder although a couple were lower and higher. I tested the cylinders > four times and the readings varied. If I throw out the low and the average > is: > > 1-20%, 2-19%, 3-24%, 4-23%, 5-18%, 6-19% > > A 1998 compression test right after the head was rebuilt was: > > 1-140psi, 2-130-135psi, 3-135-140psi, 4-125psi, 5-125-130psi, 6-125-130psi. > > On with the work. > > John > > Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 21:50:40 -0700 >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> From: john spaur >> Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical >> >> So... I need to do a compression test. >> John Spaur >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/michael.oritt@**gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Oct 18 20:53:22 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 10:53:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications In-Reply-To: References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Yes, Actually if I recall correctly the distributor on a standard 100 runs of this same gear, but because it's on the wrong side it reaches across the crank to connect, that's why the distributor drive shaft is so long on the 100. On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Michael Salter < msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote: > Hi Gary, > I'll try to answer your questions. > I'm not an expert on casting techniques but. as far as I can figure, to > make > the 100S block the pattern for the deck of the block was changed with > repositioned bosses for the studs and incidentally more material where the > generator would eventually mount. > Moving the distributor to the other side of the block was necessitated by > the manifolds which were located on the right side of the 100S head. > The actual process of moving the distributor was not too difficult because > there is already a 1/2 engine speed quill shaft over there which is used to > drive the tachometer in the original 100 configuration. All they had to do > was cast up a special pedestal, incorporating a tachometer drive (just like > the one used on the pre BJ8 6 cylinder cars) and bolt it on. > > Michael Salter > > On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 4:31 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < > tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote: > > > DW makes the heads, but there could be others.. > > > > http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/100s-aluminium-cylinder-heads > > > > Kilmartin brothers do the chassis parts to a great level of detail.. > > > > At this point, a good replica is probably a matter of $$$$$.. :-) > > > > BR, Tadek > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com > > Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2011 12:34 PM > > To: austin.healey at gmail.com > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap > > orientation-details) > > > > Mike's article is very interesting, but I am not sure it answers my > > original > > question. Let me restate it. It is my understanding that the 100S engine > > used a 100 engine block. Was the 100S engine based on using use a 100 > > engine > > block casting (before it had been machined) and then machining it to 100S > > specifications or was it based on using an already machine 100 engine > block > > & modifying it where necesssary? Also, how did they move the distributor > > from one side to the other side? I cannot picture how the distrbutor > would > > be mounted on the side of the block not originally intended for the > > distributor. > > Also, how was the distributor driven? Finally, based on Mike's article, > > what > > did the factory deal with moving the head studs for the 100S engine? > > Gary Hodson > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > _ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Oct 18 21:23:08 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 20:23:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? In-Reply-To: <9DA6E79642444776AF0B0489AC865088@lab092908> Message-ID: <1318994588.18729.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Here's the website: http://www.sebringinternational.co.uk/exalt.html Prices start at 42,995 pounds. The more I see modern interpretations of a Healey the happier I am they stopped making them in 1967. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Tue, 10/18/11, David Masucci wrote: From: David Masucci Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, October 18, 2011, 8:28 PM Most of us know of the Sebring Healey replicas. Well I stumbled onto this page displaying a new version from Sebring International. I guess it's a modern interpretation of a Healey. Hmmm....let's see what you all think. The front has a bit of '54 Corvette. The front part of the front fender (wing!) with the sloped headlight reminds me of present day Mercedes. Curious to see a rear view. Go to the link below, and go a little more than a third of the way down the page. http://autopark.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html Dave BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Oct 18 21:33:36 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 23:33:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> Speaking of differences in Hundred engine blocks, I have a customer's Hundred engine here that has only one distributor clamp mounting hole, instead of the usual two. When looking at the distributor side of the engine there is the hole for the distributor body and only one threaded hole located just aft (to the left of) the distributor. Has anybody else seen this arrangement? Rich From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 18 21:52:17 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 20:52:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: compression electrical In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018161321.020a6dc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018204154.020d2690@pop.att.yahoo.com> From ynotink at msn.com Tue Oct 18 23:03:26 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 05:03:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? In-Reply-To: <9DA6E79642444776AF0B0489AC865088@lab092908> References: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01>, <8CE5B48FA375171-1448-43C33@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com>, <9DA6E79642444776AF0B0489AC865088@lab092908> Message-ID: I can't drum up much interest in most of the newer cars. I suppose the current crop of designers grew up with a collection of "Hot Wheels" and actually think that's how a car should look. Thus the enormous chintzy, plastic look chrome wheels with rubber bands for tires... I think I'm gonna hurl Garth. Bill Lawrence > From: drmasucci at comcast.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 20:28:18 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? > > Most of us know of the Sebring Healey replicas. Well I stumbled onto this > page displaying a new version from Sebring International. I guess it's a > modern interpretation of a Healey. Hmmm....let's see what you all think. The > front has a bit of '54 Corvette. The front part of the front fender (wing!) > with the sloped headlight reminds me of present day Mercedes. Curious to see > a rear view. > > Go to the link below, and go a little more than a third of the way down the > page. > > http://autopark.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html > > > Dave > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 00:05:28 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey]) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 17:05:28 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> Message-ID: Yes, I've seen two of these single distributor clamping hole blocks. I had one - it came A90. I suspect they are early A90 blocks/ early production. On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 2:33 PM, Rich Chrysler wrote: > Speaking of differences in Hundred engine blocks, I have a customer's > Hundred engine here that has only one distributor clamp mounting hole, > instead of the usual two. When looking at the distributor side of the > engine > there is the hole for the distributor body and only one threaded hole > located just aft (to the left of) the distributor. Has anybody else seen > this arrangement? > > Rich > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 00:10:38 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 14:10:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> Message-ID: If it has only one distributor clamp mount hole, that would mean the block is out of an Atlantic, or maybe an A70. Is there a part number? I can check my A90 parts manual. Alan On 10/19/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: > Speaking of differences in Hundred engine blocks, I have a customer's > Hundred engine here that has only one distributor clamp mounting hole, > instead of the usual two. When looking at the distributor side of the engine > there is the hole for the distributor body and only one threaded hole > located just aft (to the left of) the distributor. Has anybody else seen > this arrangement? > > Rich > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed Oct 19 00:13:49 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 17:13:49 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> Message-ID: <4DF6FD16D7CF4428B2E7E14FF8023C0D@PatrickQuinnPC> Hello Rich The block of the 2,660cc four-cylinder engine fitted to the Austin A90 Atlantic had just one distributor clamp retaining bolt. I was looking at the block in both an Atlantic and in a 100 just the other day and they both had the same block casting. If it's in a 100 it was originally built for an Atlantic. Perhaps it's an aftermarket replacement block and that's all they had at the time. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler Sent: Wednesday, 19 October 2011 2:34 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Block Speaking of differences in Hundred engine blocks, I have a customer's Hundred engine here that has only one distributor clamp mounting hole, instead of the usual two. When looking at the distributor side of the engine there is the hole for the distributor body and only one threaded hole located just aft (to the left of) the distributor. Has anybody else seen this arrangement? Rich _______________________________________________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Oct 19 00:17:09 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:17:09 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E9E6B65.3040608@chello.nl> The best/safest material for valve guides in a cast iron head is cast iron. It has the same expansion coefficient as the cast iron of the head so they can not detach themselves from the head. As the valves are iron too (steel) the tolerance between valves and guides can be slightly tighter. Bronze guides are better suited to aluminium heads as the difference in expansion is less. Bronze guides are used because of their better lubrication and thus presumably lesser wear between valves and guides. As the mileages we put up in these old cars are usually limited, wear is not an issue. It does not make much sense to deviate from the original. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 19-10-2011 1:12, john spaur schreef: > I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use bronze > valve guides in a cast iron head. My engine is basically stock. > > I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast iron > (stock I presume) and the other is manganese-bronze. > > What material should I use for the valve guides. > > What is a good source to purchase them from? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4559 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/18/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Oct 19 00:25:06 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:25:06 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: compression electrical In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018161321.020a6dc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018161321.020a6dc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E9E6D42.1040802@chello.nl> Readings on a cold engine are useless. You cannot make it work accurately as the oil is cold, thick and unevenly distributed, so the sealing of the piston rings varies. This goes for a compression test as well as a leak down test. Whatever the readings, do not rely on them for work on your engine. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 19-10-2011 1:29, john spaur schreef: > Many thanks to all that responded about my compression test. Most > recommended that I do a leak down test. At it turned out I could not > get enough juice to turn the engine over for a compression test. It is > recommended that a leak down test be done on a warm engine but I had > to do it cold because it was out of the car. > > I purchased a US General leak down tester from Harbor Freight but I > question the accuracy for several reasons. The instructions say > connect the air, screw the tester into the cylinder and then set the > tester side of the gauge to zero. This produced a very uniform reading > of about 2% per cylinder. > > Youtube videos show one connecting the air, setting the gauge to zero > then connecting it to the cylinder to be tested. This generally showed > a 20% loss per cylinder although a couple were lower and higher. I > tested the cylinders four times and the readings varied. If I throw > out the low and the average is: > > 1-20%, 2-19%, 3-24%, 4-23%, 5-18%, 6-19% > > A 1998 compression test right after the head was rebuilt was: > > 1-140psi, 2-130-135psi, 3-135-140psi, 4-125psi, 5-125-130psi, > 6-125-130psi. > > On with the work. > > John > >> Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 21:50:40 -0700 >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> From: john spaur >> Subject: [Healeys] compression electrical >> >> So... I need to do a compression test. >> John Spaur > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4559 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/18/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Oct 19 00:27:49 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:27:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? In-Reply-To: <9DA6E79642444776AF0B0489AC865088@lab092908> References: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> <8CE5B48FA375171-1448-43C33@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> <9DA6E79642444776AF0B0489AC865088@lab092908> Message-ID: <4E9E6DE5.9090605@chello.nl> Terrible looking thing. Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-10-2011 2:28, David Masucci schreef: > Most of us know of the Sebring Healey replicas. Well I stumbled onto > this page displaying a new version from Sebring International. I guess > it's a modern interpretation of a Healey. Hmmm....let's see what you > all think. The front has a bit of '54 Corvette. The front part of the > front fender (wing!) with the sloped headlight reminds me of present > day Mercedes. Curious to see a rear view. > > Go to the link below, and go a little more than a third of the way > down the page. > > http://autopark.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html > > > Dave > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4559 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/18/11 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Oct 19 00:49:01 2011 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:49:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> Message-ID: Rich, The block you mention is an early Austin A90 Atlantic block. I also have got one of these years ago. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rich Chrysler Gesendet: Mittwoch, 19. Oktober 2011 05:34 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 Block Speaking of differences in Hundred engine blocks, I have a customer's Hundred engine here that has only one distributor clamp mounting hole, instead of the usual two. When looking at the distributor side of the engine there is the hole for the distributor body and only one threaded hole located just aft (to the left of) the distributor. Has anybody else seen this arrangement? Rich From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Wed Oct 19 01:01:42 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:01:42 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> Message-ID: Rich Yes this is an A90 Atlantic block. Most Austin 16, A70, A90 and commercial 2.2 litre 4 cylinder petrol engines had only the one fixing bolt up until about 1952. A few A90 cars had two bolt fixings before production ceased but the majority had only one. A single bolt might legitimately have been fitted to a 100 because BMC sent out some reconditioned 100 engines with single bolt blocks. They produced a service sheet to explain how an extra hole could be drilled in the mounting distributor mounting plate. I believe that an extra spacer ring was required. If anybody is seriously interested I could dig out the service sheet. However it is more likely that an A90 engine acquired locally would have been fitted. I can quite understand why this modification was done. I had a distributor 'jump' out of its clamp on a long drive south in an A70 nearly 50 years ago. I had to retime it on the side of the road by trial and error. I still have 2 worn A90 Atlantic half engines but when I mention the distributor issue people loose interest. Best regards >Speaking of differences in Hundred engine blocks, I have a customer's >Hundred engine here that has only one distributor clamp mounting hole, >instead of the usual two. When looking at the distributor side of the engine >there is the hole for the distributor body and only one threaded hole >located just aft (to the left of) the distributor. Has anybody else seen >this arrangement? > >Rich >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk -- John Harper From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Wed Oct 19 01:17:48 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:17:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> Message-ID: Rich Yes this is an A90 Atlantic block. Most Austin 16, A70, A90 and commercial 2.2 litre 4 cylinder petrol engines had only the one fixing bolt up until about 1952. A few A90 cars had two bolt fixings before production ceased but the majority had only one. A single bolt might legitimately have been fitted to a 100 because BMC sent out some reconditioned 100 engines with single bolt blocks. They produced a service sheet to explain how an extra hole could be drilled in the mounting distributor mounting plate. I believe that an extra spacer ring was required. If anybody is seriously interested I could dig out the service sheet. However it is more likely that an A90 engine acquired locally would have been fitted. I can quite understand why this modification was done. I had a distributor 'jump' out of its clamp on a long drive south in an A70 nearly 50 years ago. I had to retime it on the side of the road by trial and error. I still have 2 worn A90 Atlantic half engines but when I mention the distributor issue people loose interest. Best regards >Speaking of differences in Hundred engine blocks, I have a customer's >Hundred engine here that has only one distributor clamp mounting hole, >instead of the usual two. When looking at the distributor side of the engine >there is the hole for the distributor body and only one threaded hole >located just aft (to the left of) the distributor. Has anybody else seen >this arrangement? > >Rich -- John Harper From derek.c.job at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 01:29:36 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 09:29:36 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? In-Reply-To: References: <20111017101808.WL9KT.353351.root@pamxwww02-z01> <8CE5B48FA375171-1448-43C33@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> <9DA6E79642444776AF0B0489AC865088@lab092908> Message-ID: Hideous! Derek On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 7:03 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I can't drum up much interest in most of the newer cars. I suppose the > current > crop of designers grew up with a collection of "Hot Wheels" and actually > think > that's how a car should look. Thus the enormous chintzy, plastic look > chrome > wheels with rubber bands for tires... I think I'm gonna hurl Garth. > > Bill Lawrence > > > From: drmasucci at comcast.net > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 20:28:18 -0400 > > Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? > > > > Most of us know of the Sebring Healey replicas. Well I stumbled onto > this > > page displaying a new version from Sebring International. I guess it's a > > modern interpretation of a Healey. Hmmm....let's see what you all think. > The > > front has a bit of '54 Corvette. The front part of the front fender > (wing!) > > with the sloped headlight reminds me of present day Mercedes. Curious to > see > > a rear view. > > > > Go to the link below, and go a little more than a third of the way down > the > > page. > > > > http://autopark.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html > > > > > > Dave > > BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Oct 19 02:46:05 2011 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 10:46:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: <4E9E6B65.3040608@chello.nl> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E9E6B65.3040608@chello.nl> Message-ID: When I restored my 100 first time I put in bronze valve guides, but had severe problems with stuck valves in the running in phase. So I took the head off and fitted iron guides and the problem was solved. Josef Eckert Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys Gesendet: Mittwoch, 19. Oktober 2011 08:17 An: john spaur Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Valve guides The best/safest material for valve guides in a cast iron head is cast iron. It has the same expansion coefficient as the cast iron of the head so they can not detach themselves from the head. As the valves are iron too (steel) the tolerance between valves and guides can be slightly tighter. Bronze guides are better suited to aluminium heads as the difference in expansion is less. Bronze guides are used because of their better lubrication and thus presumably lesser wear between valves and guides. As the mileages we put up in these old cars are usually limited, wear is not an issue. It does not make much sense to deviate from the original. Kees Oudesluijs NL From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 19 06:32:01 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 05:32:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: <4E9E6B65.3040608@chello.nl> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E9E6B65.3040608@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4E9EC341.6050004@comcast.net> FWIW, I've got bronze guides in my (iron) BJ8 head. No problems for 80K miles. Bob On 10/18/2011 11:17 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > The best/safest material for valve guides in a cast iron head is cast iron. It has the same expansion coefficient as > the cast iron of the head so they can not detach themselves from the head. As the valves are iron too (steel) the > tolerance between valves and guides can be slightly tighter. Bronze guides are better suited to aluminium heads as the > difference in expansion is less. > Bronze guides are used because of their better lubrication and thus presumably lesser wear between valves and guides. > As the mileages we put up in these old cars are usually limited, wear is not an issue. It does not make much sense to > deviate from the original. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Op 19-10-2011 1:12, john spaur schreef: >> I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use bronze valve guides in a cast iron head. My engine is >> basically stock. >> >> I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast iron (stock I presume) and the other is >> manganese-bronze. >> >> What material should I use for the valve guides. >> >> What is a good source to purchase them from? >> >> Thank you, >> John Spaur >> '62 BT7 > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 06:53:25 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 23:53:25 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <32093B82-E316-4A4B-8986-9ADA5218BEE8@gmail.com> I used the Dennis Welch Colisbro bronze guides. That have been in my BJ8 cast iron head for 13 years, no issues. No idea what the difference is between colisbro and manganese in bronze. http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/colisbro-bronze-valve-guides-1 Sent from my iPhone On 19/10/2011, at 10:12 AM, john spaur wrote: > I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use bronze > valve guides in a cast iron head. My engine is basically stock. > > I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast iron > (stock I presume) and the other is manganese-bronze. > > What material should I use for the valve guides. > > What is a good source to purchase them from? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From tld6008 at mchsi.com Wed Oct 19 07:46:19 2011 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:46:19 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? In-Reply-To: <9DA6E79642444776AF0B0489AC865088@lab092908> Message-ID: <467158640.11084521319031979671.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14> Ridiculous IMHO Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Masucci" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 7:28:18 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: [Healeys] Modern interpretation of a Healey?? Most of us know of the Sebring Healey replicas. Well I stumbled onto this page displaying a new version from Sebring International. I guess it's a modern interpretation of a Healey. Hmmm....let's see what you all think. The front has a bit of '54 Corvette. The front part of the front fender (wing!) with the sloped headlight reminds me of present day Mercedes. Curious to see a rear view. Go to the link below, and go a little more than a third of the way down the page. http://autopark.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html Dave BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008 at mchsi.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 08:13:19 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 01:13:19 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides Message-ID: <87D552BE-27AA-4931-9DE9-2331EF3EAC67@gmail.com> Ok, here is the difference, Bronze is a generic term. It could be almost anything. Colsibro is a purpose made alloy http://www.columbiametals.co.uk/products/details/index.php?id=83&category=&industry=&trademark=colsibro Sent from my iPhone On 19/10/2011, at 10:12 AM, john spaur wrote: > I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use bronze > valve guides in a cast iron head. My engine is basically stock. > > I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast iron > (stock I presume) and the other is manganese-bronze. > > What material should I use for the valve guides. > > What is a good source to purchase them from? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 19 09:41:40 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:41:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <15FE0250-E650-4BDF-BBEF-E0CDCD20EF16@sbcglobal.net> As Michael states in his blog there are many problems with bronze valve guides causing problems with sticking valves on acceleration. What we do is leave the cast guides and install a very thin bronze insert into the original guide. This get the advantage of both the cast iron and the bronze guides. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Oct 18, 2011, at 7:01 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi John, > Before you make the decision please read my blog post on the subject > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?s=bronze+valve+guides > > Michael Salter > > > On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 7:12 PM, john spaur > wrote: > >> I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use >> bronze valve >> guides in a cast iron head. My engine is basically stock. >> >> I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast >> iron (stock >> I presume) and the other is manganese-bronze. >> >> What material should I use for the valve guides. >> >> What is a good source to purchase them from? >> >> Thank you, >> John Spaur >> '62 BT7 >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html> donate.html> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/msalter@**precisionsportscar.com> autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> msalter at precisionsportscar.com> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 19 09:52:55 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:52:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> <002401cc8e0f$e2bfdc60$a83f9520$@net> Message-ID: <62F7B204-12F4-458B-94C7-C605C9129DD0@sbcglobal.net> Yes we have one of these blocks here. Another strange one we had a BN2 here that we restored about 15 years ago and cast into the side of the block just above the starter was the word "SPECIAL" couldn't find anything really different in the motor when rebuilding it. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Oct 18, 2011, at 8:33 PM, Rich Chrysler wrote: > Speaking of differences in Hundred engine blocks, I have a customer's > Hundred engine here that has only one distributor clamp mounting hole, > instead of the usual two. When looking at the distributor side of > the engine > there is the hole for the distributor body and only one threaded hole > located just aft (to the left of) the distributor. Has anybody else > seen > this arrangement? > > Rich > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 19 10:22:12 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:22:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: <32093B82-E316-4A4B-8986-9ADA5218BEE8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <527744582.693851.1319041332047.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> http://www.columbiametals.co.uk/products/details/index.php?id=49& -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- I used the Dennis Welch Colisbro bronze guides. That have been in my BJ8 cast iron head for 13 years, no issues. No idea what the difference is between colisbro and manganese in bronze. http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/colisbro-bronze-valve-guides-1 Sent from my iPhone On 19/10/2011, at 10:12 AM, john spaur wrote: > I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use bronze > valve guides in a cast iron head. My engine is basically stock. > > I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast iron > (stock I presume) and the other is manganese-bronze. > > What material should I use for the valve guides. > > What is a good source to purchase them from? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 From rplindsay at comcast.net Wed Oct 19 10:28:19 2011 From: rplindsay at comcast.net (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 12:28:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dot 3 vs. Dot 4 Message-ID: <52547B49-8132-4E70-A5BB-474361EBE1DC@comcast.net> Are these compatible? Can I mix the two? Price Lindsay 630-841-6300 Cell Sent from my iPhone From fandy at mediacombb.net Wed Oct 19 11:24:44 2011 From: fandy at mediacombb.net (Fred Anderson) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 12:24:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: <32093B82-E316-4A4B-8986-9ADA5218BEE8@gmail.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> <32093B82-E316-4A4B-8986-9ADA5218BEE8@gmail.com> Message-ID: I have also bronze valve guides in my BJ8 for 5 years.no problem. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Chris Dimmock" Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 7:53 AM To: "john spaur" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valve guides > I used the Dennis Welch Colisbro bronze guides. That have been in my BJ8 > cast iron head for 13 years, no issues. > No idea what the difference is between colisbro and manganese in bronze. > http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/colisbro-bronze-valve-guides-1 > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 19/10/2011, at 10:12 AM, john spaur wrote: > >> I checked the archives and there was a post saying not to use bronze >> valve guides in a cast iron head. My engine is basically stock. >> >> I noticed two there are two different valve guides; one is cast iron >> (stock I presume) and the other is manganese-bronze. >> >> What material should I use for the valve guides. >> >> What is a good source to purchase them from? >> >> Thank you, >> John Spaur >> '62 BT7 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fandy at mediacombb.net From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 19 12:52:22 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 18:52:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block In-Reply-To: <62F7B204-12F4-458B-94C7-C605C9129DD0@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <39209728.703190.1319050342544.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: "... cast into the side of the block just above the starter was the word "SPECIAL"" Gotta be worth an extra $20K at auction (but only if it's a 'factory' SPECIAL). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Yes we have one of these blocks here. Another strange one we had a BN2 here that we restored about 15 years ago and cast into the side of the block just above the starter was the word "SPECIAL" couldn't find anything really different in the motor when rebuilding it. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Oct 19 13:16:18 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 12:16:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap orientation-details) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20111019151618.VXRTH.2295971.imail@fed1rmwml37> There is no end to Larry Varley's website, specially if you follow a link to John Sims! I found the diesel-blocked racer by googling ("John Chatham" diesel) because I remembered having that magazine and reading about his use of diesel engine parts to make a high revving Healey. The link is on Larry Varley's page in the "magazine articles" section with road tests and such. ---- Blue Healey wrote: > Hey Wilko > I thought I had seen all the content on Larry's site and then you come up > with that excellent page. I have searched the Larry's home page again and > still can't find the link. > > Thanks for sharing. > _____________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) > (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > http://tinyurl.com/healeyforum From cantrall at wrcresearch.com Wed Oct 19 13:48:42 2011 From: cantrall at wrcresearch.com (cantrall at wrcresearch.com) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 15:48:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling -- out of office Message-ID: <326f591e0f5846d4b81e2af98856609e@76ec56113d95450bbdabf6669a59704c> Hi, I am out of the office until Tuesday, Oct. 25th. I will be checking e-mail and will get back to you as soon as possible.Thanks for your patience,Bill From mikecallison at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 14:34:22 2011 From: mikecallison at gmail.com (Mike Callison) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:34:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors Message-ID: Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. Thanks Mike 66 BJ8 From phoenix722 at comcast.net Wed Oct 19 15:29:14 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 14:29:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] nuts Message-ID: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> I'm trying to remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel of my BN2. They are not in the best of shape, and a couple refuse to turn. Basically, the flats have become rounded. The socket fits well, but can't get it to turn, just makes it worse. Anyone have some good idea?. I don't have an impact wrench; don't know if that would be a good idea, anyway, as they aren't all that tight, just can get ahold of it. I ready to apply a cold chisel and try to split the nut. Mike BN2 From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Wed Oct 19 16:20:05 2011 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 18:20:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications In-Reply-To: References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Yes quite correct as you will probably recall there is only one set of gear teeth on the cam, right in the middle. Michael S On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 10:53 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Yes, Actually if I recall correctly the distributor on a standard 100 runs > of this same gear, but because it's on the wrong side it reaches across the > crank to connect, that's why the distributor drive shaft is so long on the > 100. > > On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Michael Salter < > msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote: > >> Hi Gary, >> I'll try to answer your questions. >> I'm not an expert on casting techniques but. as far as I can figure, to >> make >> the 100S block the pattern for the deck of the block was changed with >> repositioned bosses for the studs and incidentally more material where the >> generator would eventually mount. >> Moving the distributor to the other side of the block was necessitated by >> the manifolds which were located on the right side of the 100S head. >> The actual process of moving the distributor was not too difficult because >> there is already a 1/2 engine speed quill shaft over there which is used >> to >> drive the tachometer in the original 100 configuration. All they had to do >> was cast up a special pedestal, incorporating a tachometer drive (just >> like >> the one used on the pre BJ8 6 cylinder cars) and bolt it on. >> >> Michael Salter >> >> On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 4:31 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < >> tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote: >> >> > DW makes the heads, but there could be others.. >> > >> > http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/100s-aluminium-cylinder-heads >> > >> > Kilmartin brothers do the chassis parts to a great level of detail.. >> > >> > At this point, a good replica is probably a matter of $$$$$.. :-) >> > >> > BR, Tadek >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >> > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> > On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com >> > Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2011 12:34 PM >> > To: austin.healey at gmail.com >> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S modifications (was Distributor cap >> > orientation-details) >> > >> > Mike's article is very interesting, but I am not sure it answers my >> > original >> > question. Let me restate it. It is my understanding that the 100S engine >> > used a 100 engine block. Was the 100S engine based on using use a 100 >> > engine >> > block casting (before it had been machined) and then machining it to >> 100S >> > specifications or was it based on using an already machine 100 engine >> block >> > & modifying it where necesssary? Also, how did they move the distributor >> > from one side to the other side? I cannot picture how the distrbutor >> would >> > be mounted on the side of the block not originally intended for the >> > distributor. >> > Also, how was the distributor driven? Finally, based on Mike's article, >> > what >> > did the factory deal with moving the head studs for the 100S engine? >> > Gary Hodson >> > >> > >> > ------------------------------ >> > >> > _ From Editorgary at aol.com Wed Oct 19 16:41:32 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 18:41:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid - connect the Dots Message-ID: <79b3b.28fabb5a.3bd0ac1c@aol.com> In a message dated 10/19/11 12:48:24 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Are these compatible? Can I mix the two? > > Price Lindsay > > 630-841-6300 Cell > Price, In a pinch, you can mix Dot 3 and Dot 4 brake fluid. Here's a quick and accurate summary from the Internet: (jimsgarage.wordpress.com) "What are those things in the title? Brake fluid is categorized as one of those three ratings. Most brake fluid that comes in a new car will be rated DOT 3. A few will Use DOT 4, and very few will ever use DOT 5 which is a silicone based product. "If you want to look at brake fluids from a chemical standpoint DOT 3 fluids are based on glycol and glycol esters. DOT 4 fluids are much like DOT 3 fluids, but also contain borate esters. There is another rating called DOT 5.1 that consists of borate esters." However, as a general practice, once you open a can of brake fluid, unless you're very careful to seal it back up again carefully, you don't want to use it again, since the open can will absorb moisture like crazy, losing its effectiveness. In any case, beyond what's written above, Dot 4 is better than Dot 3, and should be relied on if you can't find Dot 5.1 -- typical brand Castrol GT-LMA. We won't get into the silicone vs glycol/ester debate here. Suffice it to say that unless you know you've got a silicone -- DOT 5 -- brake fluid in the system already, you should never add that to the system. G. From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 17:27:04 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 07:27:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: For a BJ8 - For adjustment purposes it is better to have them within reach when in the car. There are several nice options which clip on the vent window frame and require no drilling if you go this route. For a complete sweep view of blind spots and for looking behind you when pulling out of a parallel parking space, mirrors over the wheel well are preferred. This is how many old racers used to do it. If you do it this way, get Talbot mirrors so that you won't have to reset the mirror if someone bumps it. They look nice as well. I prefer the latter, or no mirrors, but it's up to you. Best, Alan On 10/20/11, Mike Callison wrote: > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > Thanks Mike > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 17:56:01 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:56:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: where you can adjust them by yourself from the front seat. I think they look great out on the wings, but they always get bumped or rattle out of alignment and its pain to adjust them IMHO closer to the windscreen on driver's side and a bit forward on off side. On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 1:34 PM, Mike Callison wrote: > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > Thanks Mike > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Wed Oct 19 17:56:37 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:56:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I believe the dealers mounted them over the front wheel mostly cause they could get to the underside of the mounting. Not very useful at that distance. Image field too narrow. I mounted mine at 22 inches forward of the door seam. Better field. Many have put them on the door. this gives the best view. Sit in thew driver seat and have someone hold the mirror at different places and see what you like. Its personal as is the type of mirror you use. I like the dual vintage Talbot bullets (green dots) with convex mirrors. They are designed to be top mounted so you don't to get under the fender. You will need to drill the fender so, as they say, measure twice (at least) drill once. Rich Kahn > Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:34:22 -0400 > From: mikecallison at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors > > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > Thanks Mike > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From pennell at cox.net Wed Oct 19 18:03:03 2011 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 20:03:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20111019200303.WE6UU.2177842.imail@eastrmwml48> Mike, I assume you will mounting convex mirrors. IMHO they should be mounted toward the rear of the fender although most are mounted above the wheel opening. The farther forward the more the field of view is restricted and are essentially useless above the wheel. I mounted mine appox in line with the rear opening of the hood (bonnet). Keith ---- Mike Callison wrote: > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > Thanks Mike > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 19:11:17 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 09:11:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] nuts In-Reply-To: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> References: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> Message-ID: Mike - These babies from Craftsman work well: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SHC-952061 If you have a nearby Sears, they should have them in stock. Alan On Thu, Oct 20, 2011 at 5:29 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > I'm trying to remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel of my BN2. They are > not > in the best of shape, and a couple refuse to turn. Basically, the flats > have > become rounded. The socket fits well, but can't get it to turn, just makes > it > worse. Anyone have some good idea?. I don't have an impact wrench; don't > know if that would be a good idea, anyway, as they aren't all that tight, > just > can get ahold of it. I ready to apply a cold chisel and try to split the > nut. > > > Mike > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Wed Oct 19 19:11:25 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 18:11:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] nuts In-Reply-To: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> Message-ID: <1319073085.24621.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Go to Sears and get one of their "Bolt Out" sets with the correct sized socket. The "Bolt Out" socket will grasp the rounded edges of the nut. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Wed, 10/19/11, Mike Sinclair wrote: From: Mike Sinclair Subject: [Healeys] nuts To: "Healey Forum" Date: Wednesday, October 19, 2011, 5:29 PM I'm trying to remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel of my BN2. They are not in the best of shape, and a couple refuse to turn. Basically, the flats have become rounded. The socket fits well, but can't get it to turn, just makes it worse. Anyone have some good idea?. I don't have an impact wrench; don't know if that would be a good idea, anyway, as they aren't all that tight, just can get ahold of it. I ready to apply a cold chisel and try to split the nut. Mike BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 19:13:32 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 09:13:32 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Dot 3 vs. Dot 4 In-Reply-To: <52547B49-8132-4E70-A5BB-474361EBE1DC@comcast.net> References: <52547B49-8132-4E70-A5BB-474361EBE1DC@comcast.net> Message-ID: Price - Dot 4 and Dot 3 are compatable, but once mixed will take on the properties of Dot 3, which has lower performance characteristics. As long as you're not racing, it won't matter. Alan On Thu, Oct 20, 2011 at 12:28 AM, R. Price Lindsay wrote: > Are these compatible? Can I mix the two? > > Price Lindsay > > 630-841-6300 Cell From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 20:11:18 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 19:11:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dot 3 vs. Dot 4 In-Reply-To: <52547B49-8132-4E70-A5BB-474361EBE1DC@comcast.net> References: <52547B49-8132-4E70-A5BB-474361EBE1DC@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2BA6763C-445F-40CE-8461-125377C2821C@gmail.com> Yes they are compatible. You should use DOT 4 if you have disc brakes. Personally I use only Castrol GTLMA which is DOT 5.1 and is compatible with both 3 and 4. None of these three fluids are compatible with silicone fluid (DOT 5). Sent from my iPhone On Oct 19, 2011, at 9:28, "R. Price Lindsay" wrote: > Are these compatible? Can I mix the two? > > Price Lindsay > > 630-841-6300 Cell > > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From phoenix722 at comcast.net Wed Oct 19 20:16:58 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 19:16:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] nuts References: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> Message-ID: <5FC3A86800C34DF5A66B900AF123A878@Mike> Good point, Al. Yes, it was a 12-point. Not sure if a 6-point will rectify now. The Bolt Off from Sears sounds like the most promising. I am leery of banging with a chisel on a nut that is on a stud. Will let you all know how it works out. BTW, one of the nuts on the other rear wheel is a plain hex nut, and none of the original nuts look all that great. Might be a good idea to invest in a 6-point 11/16" socket. As it is, I have SAE, Whitworth, Metric tools I have gathered over the years, plus some odd ones that I don't even know how to categorize. Somewhere I have acquired a tooth-pulling pliers--showed it to my dentist and he immediately identified it as a third molar remover! I hate to spend money, like everybody, but sometimes one must. I assume these nuts, which are coned, and look like self-locking are available; any good place to buy some? Mike BN2 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- ----- Original Message ----- From: Al Malin To: Mike Sinclair Cc: Healey Forum Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 6:02 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] nuts Did you use a 6- or 12-point socket? A while back I used a 12-point and created the same problem. Al Malin Tricarb On Oct 19, 2011, at 5:29 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > I'm trying to remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel of my BN2. They are not > in the best of shape, and a couple refuse to turn. Basically, the flats have > become rounded. The socket fits well, but can't get it to turn, just makes it > worse. Anyone have some good idea?. I don't have an impact wrench; don't > know if that would be a good idea, anyway, as they aren't all that tight, just > can get ahold of it. I ready to apply a cold chisel and try to split the > nut. From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Oct 19 20:29:22 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 21:29:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] nuts In-Reply-To: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> References: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> Message-ID: <2B0BD01E916B4BEBBD2C2340E4958586@GregPC> PB Blaster to ease the removal and a big pair of vise grips, if the nuts are rounded they are due for replacement anyway. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Sinclair" To: "Healey Forum" Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 4:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] nuts > I'm trying to remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel of my BN2. They are > not > in the best of shape, and a couple refuse to turn. Basically, the flats > have > become rounded. The socket fits well, but can't get it to turn, just > makes it > worse. Anyone have some good idea?. I don't have an impact wrench; don't > know if that would be a good idea, anyway, as they aren't all that tight, > just > can get ahold of it. I ready to apply a cold chisel and try to split the > nut. > > > Mike > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Oct 19 22:07:36 2011 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 14:07:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <265922C686CF48878E39D3BFC0A029C6@Notebook> G'day Mike I got these - they clamp onto the front edge of the door. No drilling! Also easy to reach to adjust and the passenger side one is actually of some use. I did look at bullet style mirrors on the doors, but was put off by the drilling & the fact that the passenger side one had to be mounted at a weird angle to be of any use. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz -----Original Message----- From: Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2011 9:56 AM To: mikecallison at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors I believe the dealers mounted them over the front wheel mostly cause they could get to the underside of the mounting. Not very useful at that distance. Image field too narrow. I mounted mine at 22 inches forward of the door seam. Better field. Many have put them on the door. this gives the best view. Sit in thew driver seat and have someone hold the mirror at different places and see what you like. Its personal as is the type of mirror you use. I like the dual vintage Talbot bullets (green dots) with convex mirrors. They are designed to be top mounted so you don't to get under the fender. You will need to drill the fender so, as they say, measure twice (at least) drill once. Rich Kahn > Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:34:22 -0400 > From: mikecallison at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors > > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors > on > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > Thanks Mike > 66 BJ8 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of mirror.jpg] From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Oct 19 22:14:41 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 21:14:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Healey Abbott Drophead Coupe- on Ebay Message-ID: *http://tinyurl.com/3vl5s7g NFI * -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Oct 19 22:40:05 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 21:40:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I like 'em where mine are right now. See link: http://ewilkins.com/wilko/pics/frntquarter.jpg I've had three Healeys. Out over the wheel looks corny as they are just too far away to be of any use. On the windscreen frame or just below is too close so you really have to turn your head to use 'em. Again, not very ergonomic. On Oct 19, 2011, at 1:34 PM, Mike Callison wrote: > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > Thanks Mike > 66 BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 20 01:29:39 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 09:29:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dot 3 vs. Dot 4 In-Reply-To: <52547B49-8132-4E70-A5BB-474361EBE1DC@comcast.net> References: <52547B49-8132-4E70-A5BB-474361EBE1DC@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E9FCDE3.50806@chello.nl> You could but why would you. Drain the system and fill up with DOT4. You do not have to worry about replacing the seals. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 19-10-2011 18:28, R. Price Lindsay schreef: > Are these compatible? Can I mix the two? > > Price Lindsay > > 630-841-6300 Cell > > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4560 - datum van uitgifte: 10/18/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 20 01:37:11 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 09:37:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9FCFA7.8030709@chello.nl> Fit the mirrors for safety sake for function ! That will be on the doors, nearest to your eyes to have the largest view area behind and next to you. OK, in the past and originally they were often fitted on the front wings , but in modern traffic that location is pretty useless as the area of view is very limited. Use a flat or concave mirror on the drivers side and a concave on the passenger side. Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-10-2011 22:34, Mike Callison schreef: > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > Thanks Mike > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4560 - datum van uitgifte: 10/18/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 20 02:04:24 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 10:04:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] nuts In-Reply-To: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> References: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> Message-ID: <4E9FD608.7070104@chello.nl> You may try to grind down the flats evenly to a smaller size hexagon box spanner. Never use a 12 sided box spanner on wheel nuts. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 19-10-2011 23:29, Mike Sinclair schreef: > I'm trying to remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel of my BN2. They are not > in the best of shape, and a couple refuse to turn. Basically, the flats have > become rounded. The socket fits well, but can't get it to turn, just makes it > worse. Anyone have some good idea?. I don't have an impact wrench; don't > know if that would be a good idea, anyway, as they aren't all that tight, just > can get ahold of it. I ready to apply a cold chisel and try to split the > nut. > > > Mike > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4560 - datum van uitgifte: 10/18/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 20 02:11:49 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 10:11:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> Even when mirrors are top mounted it is wise to fit a thickish gauge steel backing plate under the skin of door/wing for reinforcement. The skin alone is to thin an will distort when the screws are tightened (to much) and the screws will become loose over time. Also a small knock to the mirror may damage/distort the skin. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 20-10-2011 1:56, Richard Kahn schreef: > I believe the dealers mounted them over the front wheel mostly cause they > could get to the underside of the mounting. Not very useful at that distance. > Image field too narrow. I mounted mine at 22 inches forward of the door seam. > Better field. Many have put them on the door. this gives the best view. Sit in > thew driver seat and have someone hold the mirror at different places and see > what you like. Its personal as is the type of mirror you use. I like the dual > vintage Talbot bullets (green dots) with convex mirrors. They are designed to > be top mounted so you don't to get under the fender. You will need to drill > the fender so, as they say, measure twice (at least) drill once. > Rich Kahn > >> Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:34:22 -0400 >> From: mikecallison at gmail.com >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors >> >> Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on >> the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the >> mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. >> >> Thanks Mike >> 66 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4560 - datum van uitgifte: 10/18/11 From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 20 05:00:43 2011 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 04:00:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Dot 3 vs. Dot 4 In-Reply-To: <4E9FCDE3.50806@chello.nl> References: <52547B49-8132-4E70-A5BB-474361EBE1DC@comcast.net> <4E9FCDE3.50806@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1319108443.23685.YahooMailRC@web83916.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> You would if you have one and checking a resevoir shows it neds a refill and it is not your car. Price was with my wife while I was getting parts, she looked at the level, he offered to help. When I returned we learned of the mixing of fluids. I'll clean it up over the winter. Bob ________________________________ You could but why would you. Drain the system and fill up with DOT4. You do not have to worry about replacing the seals. From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Oct 20 06:33:38 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 07:33:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> Message-ID: <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> It is a matter of opinion and personal preference on the best placement for side mirrors, I have never liked or used door mirrors much. Long ago I had an MGB GT, which has somewhat limited rear view because of the hatchback, it had convex mirrors mounted on the front fenders, first car I had with such an arrangement, I wondered why all carrs weren't set up this way, worked great, wide field of vision, no blind spot, yes things look smaller, but I don't need to see details, I just need to know if there is a car back there. Much easier to look at often, because they are closer to where you should be looking (ahead) when you are driving anyway. They are a pain to adjust and in the way when you are leaning over the fender, but great when driving. Obviously others feel door mirrors are the way to go, if you can get a chance to drive or at least sit in a car with various arrangements it would be good to do that before you decide, there isn't a right answer, if installed new they were dealer installed in various locations. Here is a pic of where they were mounted on the 100, flat mirrors when I got the car, I converted to convex, which in my opinion is much better for any side mirror (wider field of view). http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/000_0011.jpg Greg Lemon From adamnolde at yahoo.com Thu Oct 20 08:02:44 2011 From: adamnolde at yahoo.com (A) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 10:02:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Drop head Healey Message-ID: I've not seen one of these before. lovely grill. http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/19/earls-court-drophead-1951-healey-abbott/ From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Thu Oct 20 08:22:28 2011 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 10:22:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Very vaguely Healey related Message-ID: I apologize to the purists but I'm really stuck for a rear hub for my Carcamel http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=21 The earliest Chrysler minivans (Caravans) used 4 stud wheels. Unwisely, it turns out, I opted to use the rear hubs from these vehicles for the rear of the Carcamel and now one of them has some serious problems and is beyond repair... I have tried everywhere I can think of but have been unable to find a replacement.. Anyone know of a wreaking yard that has an early (stacked headlight) Caravan.. Michael S From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Oct 20 08:22:03 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 01:22:03 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny Message-ID: Yes. It's Friday in Oz. Technically, I think at least one quote is from Winston Churchill. But it's a joke. Ok?? The teacher said, "Let's begin by reviewing some American history. Who said 'Give me Liberty , or give me Death'?" She saw a sea of blank faces, except for Little Hodiaki a bright foreign exchange student from Japan, who had his hand up: 'Patrick Henry, 1775', he said. 'Very good!' Who said, 'Government of the People, by the People, for the People, shall not perish from the Earth?' Again, no response except from Little Hodiaki, 'Abraham Lincoln, 1863'. 'Excellent!', said the teacher continuing, 'let's try one a bit more difficult...' Who said, 'Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for your country?' Once again, Hodiaki's was the only hand in the air and he said: 'John F. Kennedy, 1961'. The teacher snapped at the class, 'Class, you should be ashamed of yourselves, Little Hodiaki isn't from this country and he knows more about our history than you do.' She heard a loud whisper: 'F . . k the Japs,' 'Who said that? I want to know right now!' she angrily demanded. Little Hodiaki put his hand up, 'General MacArthur, 1945.' At that point, a student in the back said, 'I'm gonna puke.' The teacher glared around and asks, 'All right! Now who said that!?' Again, Little Hodiaki said, 'George Bush to the Japanese Prime Minister, 1991.' Now furious, another student yelled, 'Oh yeah? Suck this!' Little Hodiaki jumped out of his chair waving his hand and shouted to the teacher, 'Bill Clinton, to Monica Lewinsky, 1997!' Now with almost mob hysteria someone said, 'You little shit. If you say anything else, I'll kill you.' Little Hodiaki frantically yelled at the top of his voice, "Michael Jackson to the child witness testifying against him, 2004.' The teacher fainted. As the class gathered around the teacher on the floor, someone said, 'Oh shit, We're screwed!' Little Hodiaki said quietly, 'The Australian Rugby Team, October, 2011..' It's just a joke. Like the current Wallabies.... ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Thu Oct 20 08:31:18 2011 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 10:31:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] nuts In-Reply-To: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> References: <9BC4482354534D06BAC2460929F31D9C@Mike> Message-ID: Hi Mike, because those nuts have a conical base they can be a real bear to remove. In addition to that they incorporate a couple of circumferential slots near the top which provide a self locking function but make gripping with vice grips etc really difficult. As a last resort I would recommend drilling a small hole right through the nut parallel to the stud. Try to stop as soon as you hit the hub. If you are careful in selecting the correct drill size you can then drive a taper punch into that hole which will split the nut right down to the bottom of the cone. Takes a bit of skill and a lot of patience but it works as a last resort. Michael Salter Still looking for a rear hub for my Carcamel http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=21 On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 5:29 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > I'm trying to remove the lug nuts from the rear wheel of my BN2. They are > not > in the best of shape, and a couple refuse to turn. Basically, the flats > have > become rounded. The socket fits well, but can't get it to turn, just makes > it > worse. Anyone have some good idea?. I don't have an impact wrench; don't > know if that would be a good idea, anyway, as they aren't all that tight, > just > can get ahold of it. I ready to apply a cold chisel and try to split the > nut. > > > Mike > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Oct 20 09:32:40 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 08:32:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Proper Mirror adjustment In-Reply-To: <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> Message-ID: <1319124760.96938.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Many years ago while working at Ford Motor Co. I learned how to properly adjust door & rear view mirrors. I have used this method since on all my cars and find that you can use your mirrors effectively with virtually no blind spots. The following web site is just one of many sites that accurately describe this method. http://www.wikihow.com/Set-Rearview-Mirrors-to-Eliminate-Blind-Spots Ron Mitchell ________________________________ From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Oct 20 09:42:19 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 08:42:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: <265922C686CF48878E39D3BFC0A029C6@Notebook> References: <265922C686CF48878E39D3BFC0A029C6@Notebook> Message-ID: I saw some motorcycle mirrors bolted into the side curtain holes on a roadster. they looked great. On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 9:07 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > G'day Mike > > I got these - they clamp onto the front edge of the door. No drilling! Also > easy to reach to adjust and the passenger side one is actually of some use. > I did look at bullet style mirrors on the doors, but was put off by the > drilling & the fact that the passenger side one had to be mounted at a > weird > angle to be of any use. > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Kahn > Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2011 9:56 AM > To: mikecallison at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors > > I believe the dealers mounted them over the front wheel mostly cause they > could get to the underside of the mounting. Not very useful at that > distance. > Image field too narrow. I mounted mine at 22 inches forward of the door > seam. > Better field. Many have put them on the door. this gives the best view. Sit > in > thew driver seat and have someone hold the mirror at different places and > see > what you like. Its personal as is the type of mirror you use. I like the > dual > vintage Talbot bullets (green dots) with convex mirrors. They are designed > to > be top mounted so you don't to get under the fender. You will need to drill > the fender so, as they say, measure twice (at least) drill once. > Rich Kahn > > > Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:34:22 -0400 > > From: mikecallison at gmail.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors > > > > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors > > on > > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > > > Thanks Mike > > 66 BJ8 > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > mirror.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Oct 20 10:07:37 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 12:07:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> Message-ID: <000001cc8f42$62ed63c0$28c82b40$@net> The most recent restoration we installed the mirrors out on the front wings adjacent to the firewall. This allows the driver and passenger to reach the mirror from inside the car for fine adjustments, gives a reasonably wide field of vision, is nicely clear of the engine bay when work is being done there and is still accessible from the engine bay for installation. Rich http://rightwayrestorations.ca/july-1954-bn1.html From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 20 10:08:34 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 18:08:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> Message-ID: <4EA04782.2050301@chello.nl> In Europe there are legal requirements (ECE directives) for the field of vision in car mirrors. There is no hope in hell that wing mirrors can meet these requirements. There is an exception for classic cars though, but I prefer to meet modern standards as much as possible in modern traffic. That is why I use TEX mirrors like they were fitted to the Mini, MGB, Jensen Healey and many others. Although not perfect they supply a decent field of vision. The requirements can only be met by door mirrors. If flat some can be huge mirrors, mainly used on HGV's, which means that most mirrors on ordinary cars are concave or double concave (2 different sections in one mirror). Judging the distance can be a bit awkward although one gets used to that. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 20-10-2011 14:33, Greg Lemon schreef: > It is a matter of opinion and personal preference on the best > placement for side mirrors, I have never liked or used door mirrors > much. Long ago I had an MGB GT, which has somewhat limited rear view > because of the hatchback, it had convex mirrors mounted on the front > fenders, first car I had with such an arrangement, I wondered why all > carrs weren't set up this way, worked great, wide field of vision, no > blind spot, yes things look smaller, but I don't need to see details, > I just need to know if there is a car back there. > > Much easier to look at often, because they are closer to where you > should be looking (ahead) when you are driving anyway. > > They are a pain to adjust and in the way when you are leaning over the > fender, but great when driving. > > Obviously others feel door mirrors are the way to go, if you can get a > chance to drive or at least sit in a car with various arrangements it > would be good to do that before you decide, there isn't a right > answer, if installed new they were dealer installed in various locations. > > Here is a pic of where they were mounted on the 100, flat mirrors when > I got the car, I converted to convex, which in my opinion is much > better for any side mirror (wider field of view). > > http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/000_0011.jpg > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4562 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/19/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 20 10:12:32 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 18:12:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Mirrors In-Reply-To: <4EA0484D.4050407@chello.nl> References: <4EA0484D.4050407@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4EA04870.5010504@chello.nl> -------- Originele bericht -------- Onderwerp: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors Datum: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 18:11:57 +0200 Van: Oudesluys Aan: Richard Kahn Rich, You are absolutely right, it should read convex. Should have looked it up in the Dutch-English dictionary first. This would widen the field but make the images smaller. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-10-2011 18:02, Richard Kahn schreef: > Do you mean convex? Wouldn't that make the field narrower? > Rich Kahn > > > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 09:37:11 +0200 > > From: coudesluijs at chello.nl > > To: mikecallison at gmail.com > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors > > > > Fit the mirrors for safety sake for function ! That will be on the > > doors, nearest to your eyes to have the largest view area behind and > > next to you. > > OK, in the past and originally they were often fitted on the front > wings > > , but in modern traffic that location is pretty useless as the area of > > view is very limited. > > Use a flat or concave mirror on the drivers side and a concave on the > > passenger side. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > Op 19-10-2011 22:34, Mike Callison schreef: > > > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view > mirrors on > > > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > > > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > > > > > Thanks Mike > > > 66 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > > > > > ----- > > > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > > > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > > > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4560 - datum van > uitgifte: 10/18/11 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com > > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4562 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/19/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 20 10:13:51 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 18:13:51 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: <4EA04782.2050301@chello.nl> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> <4EA04782.2050301@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4EA048BF.5010809@chello.nl> Again: convave should read convex. Sorry for that, Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 20-10-2011 18:08, Oudesluys schreef: > In Europe there are legal requirements (ECE directives) for the field > of vision in car mirrors. There is no hope in hell that wing mirrors > can meet these requirements. There is an exception for classic cars > though, but I prefer to meet modern standards as much as possible in > modern traffic. That is why I use TEX mirrors like they were fitted to > the Mini, MGB, Jensen Healey and many others. Although not perfect > they supply a decent field of vision. > The requirements can only be met by door mirrors. If flat some can be > huge mirrors, mainly used on HGV's, which means that most mirrors on > ordinary cars are concave or double concave (2 different sections in > one mirror). > Judging the distance can be a bit awkward although one gets used to that. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Thu Oct 20 10:34:58 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 12:34:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> Message-ID: Mine are the convex ones mounted over the wheel. I raised my dashboard mirror about 1 1/2" Now the right mirror is completely blocked from view from a normal driving position. Just something to think about. Bob Johnson BJ8 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Oct 20 11:36:36 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 10:36:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Drop head Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: same car I posted an ebay link to yesterday. very cool ride. On Thu, Oct 20, 2011 at 7:02 AM, A wrote: > I've not seen one of these before. lovely grill. > > > http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/19/earls-court-drophead-1951-healey-abbott/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From cantrall at wrcresearch.com Thu Oct 20 12:39:30 2011 From: cantrall at wrcresearch.com (cantrall at wrcresearch.com) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 14:39:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling -- out of office Message-ID: <4b6fd8fadd494d89b2c33601748f109e@189ffc986d8f4eb3b696596a30a56d4b> Hi, I am out of the office until Tuesday, Oct. 25th. I will be checking e-mail and will get back to you as soon as possible.Thanks for your patience,Bill From m.brouillette at comcast.net Thu Oct 20 12:45:05 2011 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 18:45:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1369655321.979797.1319136305422.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I have a couple Harley mirrors that I bolt into the side curtain holes. They look great and have had many compliments. ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: "Peter & Veronica" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, mikecallison at gmail.com Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2011 11:42:19 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors I saw some motorcycle mirrors bolted into the side curtain holes on a roadster. they looked great. On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 9:07 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > G'day Mike > > I got these - they clamp onto the front edge of the door. No drilling! Also > easy to reach to adjust and the passenger side one is actually of some use. > I did look at bullet style mirrors on the doors, but was put off by the > drilling & the fact that the passenger side one had to be mounted at a > weird > angle to be of any use. > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Kahn > Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2011 9:56 AM > To: mikecallison at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors > > I believe the dealers mounted them over the front wheel mostly cause they > could get to the underside of the mounting. Not very useful at that > distance. > Image field too narrow. I mounted mine at 22 inches forward of the door > seam. > Better field. Many have put them on the door. this gives the best view. Sit > in > thew driver seat and have someone hold the mirror at different places and > see > what you like. Its personal as is the type of mirror you use. I like the > dual > vintage Talbot bullets (green dots) with convex mirrors. They are designed > to > be top mounted so you don't to get under the fender. You will need to drill > the fender so, as they say, measure twice (at least) drill once. > Rich Kahn > > > Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:34:22 -0400 > > From: mikecallison at gmail.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors > > > > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors > > on > > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > > > Thanks Mike > > 66 BJ8 > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > mirror.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.brouillette at comcast.net From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Oct 20 12:51:01 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 11:51:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Proper Mirror adjustment In-Reply-To: <1319124760.96938.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> <1319124760.96938.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ron, Thanks for posting this information. I've been preaching this technique for years to deaf ears. If you adjust your mirrors correctly there is virtually NO BLIND SPOT. The bottom line is that when a car disappears from your rear view mirror it should then appear in your side mirrors and when said car then disappears from your side mirrors it will now appear in your peripheral vision... hence no blind spot. Still no defense for the idiot that wants to rapidly change two or more lanes at once. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Oct 20, 2011 at 8:32 AM, Ron Mitchell wrote: > Many years ago while working at Ford Motor Co. I learned how to properly > adjust door & rear view mirrors. I have used this method since on all my > cars > and find that you can use your mirrors effectively with virtually no blind > spots. The following web site is just one of many sites that accurately > describe this method. > http://www.wikihow.com/Set-Rearview-Mirrors-to-Eliminate-Blind-Spots > > Ron > Mitchell > > > > ________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From mikecallison at gmail.com Thu Oct 20 13:11:35 2011 From: mikecallison at gmail.com (Mike Callison) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 15:11:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors Message-ID: After all of the great ideas, I am considering not mounting mirrors at all and putting a wireless backup camera at the base of the convertible top. I can use the trim screw holes for a mounting bracket and not have to drill holes or modify the car in any way. Especially since the only time I need a rear view mirror is when the top is up. It would also save putting any additional holes in my new paint job. I read several reviews where people have done this when they had poor visability out the rear of the vehicle. They put the camera on a toogle, to the fuse box and turned it on when needed. They got a 20 degree side angle view mounting on the license plate. I thought by moving it higher and further up the car, I should be able to see the corners. Does anyone have any experience with this? By the way, I am aware of the polarity issues, but already know how to correct for that. Thanks Mike 66 BJ8 From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 20 13:49:06 2011 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 14:49:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: <265922C686CF48878E39D3BFC0A029C6@Notebook> Message-ID: <002c01cc8f61$5400a5b0$fc01f110$@net> Those were most likely Harley Davidson mirrors, available at and Harley dealer. The have the same bolt size and thread as the side curtain wing nuts on a 3000. They work great and do not look too bad. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2011 10:42 AM To: Peter & Veronica Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; mikecallison at gmail.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors I saw some motorcycle mirrors bolted into the side curtain holes on a roadster. they looked great. On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 9:07 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > G'day Mike > > I got these - they clamp onto the front edge of the door. No drilling! Also > easy to reach to adjust and the passenger side one is actually of some use. > I did look at bullet style mirrors on the doors, but was put off by the > drilling & the fact that the passenger side one had to be mounted at a > weird > angle to be of any use. > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Oct 20 14:17:15 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 07:17:15 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Drop head Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: G'day It appears that a little education in Healey History is required. Have a look at the website for The Association of Healey Owners at: http://www.healeyowners.co.uk/ There are Healeys and Nash Healeys and all the rest are Austin-Healeys. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of A Sent: Friday, 21 October 2011 1:03 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Drop head Healey I've not seen one of these before. lovely grill. http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/19/earls-court-drophead-1951-healey-abbott/ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From jstmorris at yahoo.com Thu Oct 20 14:30:46 2011 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 13:30:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler Website In-Reply-To: <000001cc8f42$62ed63c0$28c82b40$@net> Message-ID: <1319142646.78877.YahooMailClassic@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> So Rich; I gather that is your new website. Those projects look fantastic. And the name - Right Way Restoration - could be nothing else. :-) --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Thu, 10/20/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: From: Rich Chrysler Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors To: "'Greg Lemon'" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Received: Thursday, October 20, 2011, 12:07 PM The most recent restoration we installed the mirrors out on the front wings adjacent to the firewall. This allows the driver and passenger to reach the mirror from inside the car for fine adjustments, gives a reasonably wide field of vision, is nicely clear of the engine bay when work is being done there and is still accessible from the engine bay for installation. Rich http://rightwayrestorations.ca/july-1954-bn1.html From walt2727 at yahoo.com Thu Oct 20 15:20:18 2011 From: walt2727 at yahoo.com (Walt Peterson) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 14:20:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Me & My Wolseley-- Thanks: Message-ID: <1319145618.5817.YahooMailClassic@web161406.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Thanks Chris, Peter and Alan & Charlie B. , Jeff & anybody else who weighed-in on the Wolseley in August. I finally got it up here to Western Pa. about a month ago and we should have it fully apart in a few weeks. The mechanics at the garage pronounced the 3.54 diff, "Like new!" & the W had only 38K on the odo. The interior is shot but there are a lot of good body panels and glass that are free for the taking but Jeff says, "You got to get it out of here soon." I'll put the Healey parts to good use & if I don't hear about the body parts, it all gets scrapped. No, it doesn't have a title or that would go for my Jabro-Buick but negative-camber shocks, heavy-duty valves (Are the valves on the rear shocks "competition"?), front upright assembly with brakes, automatic trannymixer, engine (it's locked up but the crank & damper can be ok, I guess, carbs, manifolds, gen & starter: did I miss anything? One thing I learned-- don't go with the lowest shipping bid if it requires a downpayment (Ask me about All USA Shipping!) That was an education. Best, Walt From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Oct 20 16:07:08 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 18:07:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apology; Was Mirrors In-Reply-To: <000001cc8f42$62ed63c0$28c82b40$@net> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> <000001cc8f42$62ed63c0$28c82b40$@net> Message-ID: <004d01cc8f74$9c840da0$d58c28e0$@net> My apologies to the list. I had intended to give a web site address to view an appropriate photo regarding the mirror placement on a car. It was NOT my intention to send you to my entire site which is in early stages of construction and not yet "suitable for human consumption". Regards, Rich Chrysler -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler Sent: 2011-10-20 12:08 To: 'Greg Lemon' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors The most recent restoration we installed the mirrors out on the front wings adjacent to the firewall. This allows the driver and passenger to reach the mirror from inside the car for fine adjustments, gives a reasonably wide field of vision, is nicely clear of the engine bay when work is being done there and is still accessible from the engine bay for installation. Rich From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Oct 20 16:33:25 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 22:33:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20111020223326.D6PYH.22658.root@cdptpa-web25-z01> The wing mirrors on my BJ8 are centered over the chrome spears. The mirrors out there on the wings was actually one of the things that attracted me to the car in the first place because they looked so quaint and "oh, so British". They are that, but they are a real pain to adjust. To avoid excessive trial and error to adjust, it's necessary to have two people -- one to sit in the driver's seat and another to do the adjusting. And if anyone walks by the car after adjustment....they are no longer adjusted! But I like them just fine where they are. The presence and location of the wing/door mirrors is one of the external features of a car that I record in the BJ8 registry as an aid to identifying a car when neither the VIN plate nor the license plate number is visible. On another subject: on our way to Southeastern Healey Classic at Lake Guntersville, Alabama today, as we were entering Atlanta in the I-20 traffic, I suddenly felt the car lose power and sound "mushy". Realizing I was running out of gas, I just reached under the dash and flipped on the backup fuel pump and away we went again. It sure is nice to have that option. The main SU pump is approaching 10 years old and I have never had the cap off, so it may be time to clean the points. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC > On 10/20/11, Mike Callison wrote: > > Need your advise. I am getting ready to mount the two rear view mirrors on > > the front fenders of my BJ8. Is there a specified location for the > > mirrors. What is the best location for both aesthetics and function. > > > > Thanks Mike > > 66 BJ8 From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Oct 20 16:58:07 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 15:58:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm not sure where you live but some states REQUIRE at least a driver side outside mirror. California is one. I would check with your local DMV or AAA to see if the camera idea will pass. Rich Kahn > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 15:11:35 -0400 > From: mikecallison at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors > > After all of the great ideas, I am considering not mounting mirrors at all > and putting a wireless backup camera at the base of the convertible top. I > can use the trim screw holes for a mounting bracket and not have to drill > holes or modify the car in any way. Especially since the only time I need a > rear view mirror is when the top is up. It would also save putting any > additional holes in my new paint job. I read several reviews where people > have done this when they had poor visability out the rear of the vehicle. > They put the camera on a toogle, to the fuse box and turned it on when > needed. They got a 20 degree side angle view mounting on the license > plate. I thought by moving it higher and further up the car, I should be > able to see the corners. Does anyone have any experience with this? By the > way, I am aware of the polarity issues, but already know how to correct for > that. > > > > Thanks Mike > > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Oct 20 18:58:12 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 17:58:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Apology; Was Mirrors In-Reply-To: <004d01cc8f74$9c840da0$d58c28e0$@net> Message-ID: <1319158692.53515.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Rich, No need for an apology, we all enjoyed the pre opening day tour, That black over red BN1 color combo is beautiful. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Thu, 10/20/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: From: Rich Chrysler Subject: [Healeys] Apology; Was Mirrors To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, October 20, 2011, 6:07 PM My apologies to the list. I had intended to give a web site address to view an appropriate photo regarding the mirror placement on a car. It was NOT my intention to send you to my entire site which is in early stages of construction and not yet "suitable for human consumption". Regards, Rich Chrysler -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler Sent: 2011-10-20 12:08 To: 'Greg Lemon' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors The most recent restoration we installed the mirrors out on the front wings adjacent to the firewall. This allows the driver and passenger to reach the mirror from inside the car for fine adjustments, gives a reasonably wide field of vision, is nicely clear of the engine bay when work is being done there and is still accessible from the engine bay for installation. Rich _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From cleona44 at hotmail.com Thu Oct 20 19:34:23 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 21:34:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apology; Was Mirrors In-Reply-To: <004d01cc8f74$9c840da0$d58c28e0$@net> References: , <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC>, <000001cc8f42$62ed63c0$28c82b40$@net>, <004d01cc8f74$9c840da0$d58c28e0$@net> Message-ID: Rich - no apology required, simply amazing work!!! jobs well done but why no photos of a Longbridge? jim lesher > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 18:07:08 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Apology; Was Mirrors > > My apologies to the list. I had intended to give a web site address to view > an appropriate photo regarding the mirror placement on a car. It was NOT my > intention to send you to my entire site which is in early stages of > construction and not yet "suitable for human consumption". > > Regards, Rich Chrysler > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler > Sent: 2011-10-20 12:08 > To: 'Greg Lemon' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors > > The most recent restoration we installed the mirrors out on the front wings > adjacent to the firewall. This allows the driver and passenger to reach the > mirror from inside the car for fine adjustments, gives a reasonably wide > field of vision, is nicely clear of the engine bay when work is being done > there and is still accessible from the engine bay for installation. > > Rich > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Oct 21 01:17:41 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 09:17:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EA11C95.1000102@chello.nl> Easily done but there are some drawbacks. It will cover the rear but not the sides and then, where will you put the monitor? It is also an extra drain on your electrical system. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 20-10-2011 21:11, Mike Callison schreef: > After all of the great ideas, I am considering not mounting mirrors at all > and putting a wireless backup camera at the base of the convertible top. I > can use the trim screw holes for a mounting bracket and not have to drill > holes or modify the car in any way. Especially since the only time I need a > rear view mirror is when the top is up. It would also save putting any > additional holes in my new paint job. I read several reviews where people > have done this when they had poor visability out the rear of the vehicle. > They put the camera on a toogle, to the fuse box and turned it on when > needed. They got a 20 degree side angle view mounting on the license > plate. I thought by moving it higher and further up the car, I should be > able to see the corners. Does anyone have any experience with this? By the > way, I am aware of the polarity issues, but already know how to correct for > that. > > > > Thanks Mike > > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4563 - datum van uitgifte: 10/20/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Oct 21 01:19:53 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 09:19:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Drop head Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EA11D19.2090805@chello.nl> Objection! And Jensen Healeys. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 20-10-2011 22:17, Patrick and Caroline Quinn schreef: > G'day > > It appears that a little education in Healey History is required. > > Have a look at the website for The Association of Healey Owners at: > > http://www.healeyowners.co.uk/ > > There are Healeys and Nash Healeys and all the rest are Austin-Healeys. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon > 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of A > Sent: Friday, 21 October 2011 1:03 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Drop head Healey > > I've not seen one of these before. lovely grill. > > http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/19/earls-court-drophead-1951-healey-abbott/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4563 - datum van uitgifte: 10/20/11 From bluehealey at gmail.com Fri Oct 21 03:12:10 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 10:12:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Apology; Was Mirrors In-Reply-To: <004d01cc8f74$9c840da0$d58c28e0$@net> References: <4E9FD7C5.3090804@chello.nl> <9F490094CEF5489D80677B688C5CA388@GregPC> <000001cc8f42$62ed63c0$28c82b40$@net> <004d01cc8f74$9c840da0$d58c28e0$@net> Message-ID: You don't need to apologise Rich. That is an excellent preview of what I'm sure will become an excellent internet resource for the restoration of these cars. Whilst it may not be ready for use as a marketing tool for your services, those in the AH fraternity are already well aware of your credentials and support for the marque. I look forward to seeing the photo's of the Longbridge resto. On 20 October 2011 23:07, Rich Chrysler wrote: > My apologies to the list. I had intended to give a web site address to view > an appropriate photo regarding the mirror placement on a car. It was NOT my > intention to send you to my entire site which is in early stages of > construction and not yet "suitable for human consumption". > > Regards, Rich Chrysler > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler > Sent: 2011-10-20 12:08 > To: 'Greg Lemon' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mirrors > > The most recent restoration we installed the mirrors out on the front wings > adjacent to the firewall. This allows the driver and passenger to reach > the > mirror from inside the car for fine adjustments, gives a reasonably wide > field of vision, is nicely clear of the engine bay when work is being done > there and is still accessible from the engine bay for installation. > > Rich > _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Fri Oct 21 04:21:28 2011 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 06:21:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Books and brochure for sale Message-ID: <6B083575-878E-47BD-84D5-EAE9DA5626C8@cgocable.ca> Hi All One of Healey's friend (Bob Forest ) decide to sell is collection of books , phone and email (bottom) >> i,I have decided to sell my collection of Healey books and very old >> Healey pamphlets or brochures. Even have a Mklll BMC approved >> accessories brochure, and a Austin Healey Colour finishes for the >> 3000 and the sprite.a a Austin Healey club application brochure >> (British) from 1964. >> la liste des livres. >> 1-The Story of the Big Healey >> 2-Healey the Handsome Brute >> 3-Autin Healey 100 & 3000 >> 4-Autin Healey 100 super profile by John Wheatley >> 5-Austin Healey 100 Service Manual Leather bound by The Austin >> Healey Motor Company Limited >> Birmingham, England. July 1954 >> 6-Healey Autocar Given to me by the Austin Healey Club of Australia >> when I was there for 3 months in 1987 >> 7-Austin Healey Buyers Guide >> 8-Donald Healey my world of Cars >> 9-Healey the Specials >> 10-Austin Healey 100 &3000 by David McLavin & Andrew Tipping >> 11-Chilton's repair tune up guide with a 7 color peel away insert >> for the 100 sic ,3000 MKs and the >> Sprites. specification, troubleshooting and Maintenance. >> 12-Autin Healey 100, 1952-59 Brookland Books. >> 13-The Big Healeys by Graham Robson >> >> Merci, >> Bob b.forest at videotron.ca >> 514-697-6660 >> 514-497-2969 Cheers Gilbert Gauthier BT7 100M From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Oct 21 04:23:22 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 18:23:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Drop head Healey In-Reply-To: <4EA11D19.2090805@chello.nl> References: <4EA11D19.2090805@chello.nl> Message-ID: Triumph Dolomite? :) On 10/21/11, Oudesluys wrote: > Objection! And Jensen Healeys. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > Op 20-10-2011 22:17, Patrick and Caroline Quinn schreef: >> G'day >> >> It appears that a little education in Healey History is required. >> >> Have a look at the website for The Association of Healey Owners at: >> >> http://www.healeyowners.co.uk/ >> >> There are Healeys and Nash Healeys and all the rest are Austin-Healeys. >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia >> >> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon >> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/4 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of A >> Sent: Friday, 21 October 2011 1:03 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] 1951 Drop head Healey >> >> I've not seen one of these before. lovely grill. >> >> http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/19/earls-court-drophead-1951-healey-abbott/ >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> >> ----- >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com >> Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4563 - datum van uitgifte: >> 10/20/11 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From eorr at cogeco.ca Fri Oct 21 05:51:34 2011 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 07:51:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Very vaguely Healey related References: Message-ID: Hi Mike There is a wrecking yard near Grimsby ON Van Ryn Auto Wrecking , a very large yard with a lot of old minivans , give them a call 905-643-2557 . Ed Orr ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2011 10:22 AM Subject: [Healeys] Very vaguely Healey related >I apologize to the purists but I'm really stuck for a rear hub for my > Carcamel http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=21 > The earliest Chrysler minivans (Caravans) used 4 stud wheels. > Unwisely, it turns out, I opted to use the rear hubs from these vehicles > for > the rear of the Carcamel and now one of them has some serious problems and > is beyond repair... > I have tried everywhere I can think of but have been unable to find a > replacement.. > Anyone know of a wreaking yard that has an early (stacked headlight) > Caravan.. > > Michael S > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 696 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Oct 21 07:41:16 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 00:41:16 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Me & My Wolseley-- Thanks: In-Reply-To: <1319145618.5817.YahooMailClassic@web161406.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1319145618.5817.YahooMailClassic@web161406.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9BA34631-F5D2-47F6-9FC0-1A2A2751371F@gmail.com> Hey Walt, was that the $200 Wolsley on eBay? If so, glad it went to a good Healey home!! Not sure about the rear shock valves, as my Healey is a BJ8, which has the larger ( like MGB) rear shocks, and I can't remember which rear shocks that model Wolsley has? Generally speaking, a heavier sedan which has the same appearance shock as a Healey has the heavier 'competition' valving. The heavier the car, the more uprated the valving. The engine should be fine if it's only done 38,000 miles, it will probably have a standard size crank that may only need a linish and standard bores that may only need a light hone. What head has it got? The log integral manifold type, or the Healey 12 port type? Have fun pulling it apart! Best Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 21/10/2011, at 8:20 AM, Walt Peterson wrote: > > Thanks Chris, Peter and Alan & Charlie B. , Jeff & anybody else who > weighed-in > on the Wolseley in August. > > I finally got it up here to Western Pa. about a month ago and > we should > have it fully apart in a few weeks. The mechanics at the garage > pronounced the > 3.54 diff, "Like new!" & the W had only 38K on the odo. The interior > is shot > but there are a lot of good body panels and glass that are free for > the taking > but Jeff says, "You got to get it out of here soon." I'll put the > Healey > parts to good use & if I don't hear about the body parts, it all gets > scrapped. > > No, it doesn't have a title or that would go for my Jabro-Buick but > negative-camber shocks, heavy-duty valves (Are the valves on the > rear shocks > "competition"?), front upright assembly with brakes, automatic > trannymixer, > engine (it's locked up but the crank & damper can be ok, I guess, > carbs, > manifolds, gen & starter: did I miss anything? > > One thing I learned-- don't go with the lowest shipping bid if it > requires a > downpayment (Ask me about All USA Shipping!) That was an education. > > Best, > > Walt > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com Fri Oct 21 14:56:59 2011 From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 13:56:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] interior Message-ID: <1319230619.61379.YahooMailClassic@web120120.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> hi all i have a 3000 bj8 with rally vents the color combination is white with red coves red int and red carpets ,carpets are looking alittle ratty thinking of possibly going with black carpet just to change it around since i have the car over 20 yrs its not concourse and i have done a number of mods like smitty trans putske suspension alum rad what do u guys think ,also is there any advantage of a alum head and tripple su's let me know don't know how to attach a pic From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Oct 22 04:18:37 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 21:18:37 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Rear wheel cylinder diameters Message-ID: <9F30EC09-E8AC-4C15-9467-5C1D6661EE6E@gmail.com> Hey guys, can anyone tell me: 1. The diameter of the rear wheel cylinder on a 100/6 (which has front drums) 2. The diameter of the rear wheel cylinder on a bugeye sprite (which has front drums) 3. The diameter of the rear wheel cylinder on a MK 3 sprite (which has front disks) I've been tring to find these, but my Internet on a cellphone is hopeless, and I won't have access to a pc until Monday. Thanks Guys Chris Sent from my iPhone From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Oct 22 09:34:12 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 08:34:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] mirrors Message-ID: To whom ever asked about mirror placement, check this month's, October 2011, calender from the Austin Healey Club,USA. Nice street shot of a half dozen front ends, all with mirrors in a different spot. No bullets visable but quite an assortment of BJ8s. It looks like the first partial of the blue one has the mounting inboard of the fender bead. Rich Kahn From cantrall at wrcresearch.com Sat Oct 22 14:22:25 2011 From: cantrall at wrcresearch.com (cantrall at wrcresearch.com) Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 16:22:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling -- out of office Message-ID: <3bab303f41af4b4e8fe76c684a80e531@eeebad5e356c4e6d90bbabfc069ca1cc> Hi, I am out of the office until Tuesday, Oct. 25th. I will be checking e-mail and will get back to you as soon as possible.Thanks for your patience,Bill From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Sat Oct 22 20:54:20 2011 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 19:54:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] How to reach Doug Reid AKA Mr. Finespanner Message-ID: <1319338460.34891.YahooMailClassic@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> How can I reach Doug Reid? I tried the email address he posted with on this list a couple weeks ago and tried the phone number on his price list but no success. Is everything OK? Any other method to reach him? Bert From shop at justbrits.com Sun Oct 23 13:10:41 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 14:10:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] How to reach Doug Reid AKA Mr. Finespanner In-Reply-To: <1319338460.34891.YahooMailClassic@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1319338460.34891.YahooMailClassic@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4EA466B1.4020409@justbrits.com> << How can I reach Doug Reid? I tried the email address he posted with on this list a couple weeks ago >> Did you try the List's who (+)password command to compare what you have, Bert ?? With (+) OMITTED. Ed From cantrall at wrcresearch.com Sun Oct 23 14:35:39 2011 From: cantrall at wrcresearch.com (cantrall at wrcresearch.com) Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2011 16:35:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling -- out of office Message-ID: <4864a854f94b4fce8db377b4a31a3710@8b33a08c9f3d4c709b9e4327a7dd92d5> Hi, I am out of the office until Tuesday, Oct. 25th. I will be checking e-mail and will get back to you as soon as possible.Thanks for your patience,Bill From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Oct 23 18:32:31 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 11:32:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Works weber setup pics Message-ID: <7D1C9CDB-E48A-4773-B655-94EC6EA3012B@gmail.com> Hi guys, Has anyone got any pics of the factory triple weber setup for a works Healey? Not a repro setup, the genuine period type? Specifically, I'm interested in the detail of the linkages. Also any pics of the current DD300 webers with linkages? Thanks guys Chris Sent from my iPhone From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Oct 23 21:17:40 2011 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 03:17:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Works weber setup pics In-Reply-To: <7D1C9CDB-E48A-4773-B655-94EC6EA3012B@gmail.com> References: <7D1C9CDB-E48A-4773-B655-94EC6EA3012B@gmail.com> Message-ID: Chris: If you have a copy of Bill Piggott's book Austin-Healey, A celebration ofthe fabulous "Big" Healey, there is a photo, in black and white on page 139 that may help you. Jean Caron > From: austin.healey at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 11:32:31 +1100 > Subject: [Healeys] Works weber setup pics > > Hi guys, > Has anyone got any pics of the factory triple weber setup for a works > Healey? > Not a repro setup, the genuine period type? Specifically, I'm > interested in the detail of the linkages. > Also any pics of the current DD300 webers with linkages? > Thanks guys > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From ggilliam at usol.com Mon Oct 24 11:12:51 2011 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:12:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Calendar Message-ID: <9829c26ec412497037ad4509116cf875@usol.com> I received my new AH calendar and magazine today, both really nice work, well packaged and undamaged! Great job guy's! Gordy Longbridge BN4, almost ready for it's winter nap From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Oct 24 12:41:55 2011 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 18:41:55 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Two piece dash fascia for early BN1 - Message-ID: Listers: Anyone interested or in need of a two piece dash fascia, contact me off line. Thanks, Jean Caron From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Oct 24 12:52:43 2011 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 14:52:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb rebuilder Message-ID: <4EA5B3FB.3090604@earthlink.net> All, FWIW, I got a flyer in the goodie bag at Southeastern Classic for "SU Carburetor Rebuild". JT's Carburetors Bob Johnson - trained by Jim Taylor of Bartlesville, OK. Specialist in SU Carburetors Rebuilding & Restoration - All British Cars PO Box 493, Claremore, OK 74018 (918) 850-3905 jtcarburetor at gmail.com Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From fredwescoe at gmail.com Mon Oct 24 16:01:33 2011 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 18:01:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender Message-ID: List, In an effort to track down the issue with a non working fuel gauge, I removed the sending unit from the tank today. It has not worked in years but I simply drove 100 miles and filled up to be safe. Not knowing how deep the tank was made me not quite trust the "dip stick" method of measuring. On the bench, I put an ohm meter on the case and the terminal and got a low reading (empty) of 2.5 ohms and high (full) reading of 86 ohms. Does anyone know if this is the correct range for the sending unit? If not, how do I adjust it and to get what readings. Yes, the float is full of fuel. I will drill a hole, drain it and then seal the hole. I will try placing it in a pot of hot water to see if I can find the leak and if I do, I will solder that closed. Or, what is the part number for the Ford replacement float, if that is the better way to go. If the Ford float is not hollow plastic or metal and is something that will not hold fuel, it makes sense to simply replace the float. Which is better repair or replace? I will be sending the gauge and the sending unit in for rebuilding if the gauge still reads empty after resolving the float issue. What is the collective wisdom on this problem? I also measured the depth of the tank and it is just over 5" from the lip of the sender hole to the bottom of the tank. This is an original tank and it shows no or very little rust in it. I guess I just jinxed myself and it will now start to leak. Thanks in advance for the knowledge. Fred 63 BJ7 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Oct 24 18:01:17 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 17:01:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy First Drive - I Got a Sticker! Message-ID: <1319500877.86956.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I've been trying to get the Nasty Boy road legal before it gets too cold to play in my unheated New England garage. In order to legally operate a motor vehicle upon the ways of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, one must obtain a motor vehicle inspection sticker, known hereabouts as "gottagetastickah" (rhymes with "pissah"). I've had a primal fear about inspection stickers since 1967 when every 6 mos I'd try to get my well used bugeye through inspection. There was always something wrong with it and I'd hold my breath that it would pass and give me another six months on the road. So with more than a little trepidation, I brought the Healey in to get checked out. For older cars, it's not a huge deal. Lights, directionals, brake lights, brakes, emergency brake, horn, wipers, kingpins, etc. Car guys know which inspection stations are hot rod friendly and which ones aren't. Fortunately, I've got a local guy who's sympatico with the classic car guys. Passed with more or less flying colors. Once legal, I filled up the tank and did about five miles on it. So far, I'm enthralled. It's really solid. Between the balanced rear brake drums and additional bracing around the doghouse, there's no scuttle shake. It's running about 190 degrees, which makes me a little less concerned about the modified stock radiator and Texas Cooler mechanical fan. But the most exciting thing is this car is ... uhmmm... what's the word? Oh yeah .... FAST! I have to admit I was always a bit disappointed with the performance of the Big Healey. The six is a great sounding motor, but to me it never had the performance to keep up with those handsome lines. 345 hp changes all that. The pipes sound wonderful and it really moves! I know I need pictures and videos, but I've got a bunch of clean-up and detailing to go before he's ready for some beauty shots. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Oct 24 18:47:05 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 20:47:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <05d001cc92af$9eb64820$dc22d860$@verizon.net> Ford float part number is: COAZ-9202-B John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 6:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender List, In an effort to track down the issue with a non working fuel gauge, I removed the sending unit from the tank today. It has not worked in years but I simply drove 100 miles and filled up to be safe. Not knowing how deep the tank was made me not quite trust the "dip stick" method of measuring. On the bench, I put an ohm meter on the case and the terminal and got a low reading (empty) of 2.5 ohms and high (full) reading of 86 ohms. Does anyone know if this is the correct range for the sending unit? If not, how do I adjust it and to get what readings. Yes, the float is full of fuel. I will drill a hole, drain it and then seal the hole. I will try placing it in a pot of hot water to see if I can find the leak and if I do, I will solder that closed. Or, what is the part number for the Ford replacement float, if that is the better way to go. If the Ford float is not hollow plastic or metal and is something that will not hold fuel, it makes sense to simply replace the float. Which is better repair or replace? I will be sending the gauge and the sending unit in for rebuilding if the gauge still reads empty after resolving the float issue. What is the collective wisdom on this problem? I also measured the depth of the tank and it is just over 5" from the lip of the sender hole to the bottom of the tank. This is an original tank and it shows no or very little rust in it. I guess I just jinxed myself and it will now start to leak. Thanks in advance for the knowledge. Fred 63 BJ7 From linwoodrose at mac.com Mon Oct 24 20:12:10 2011 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 22:12:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy First Drive - I Got a Sticker! In-Reply-To: <1319500877.86956.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1319500877.86956.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6C7D005B-0963-4914-A35D-5EBA831DED53@mac.com> Congrats, Rick. I would have liked to have seen the smile on your face! Lin Sent from my iPhone On Oct 24, 2011, at 8:01 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > I've been trying to get the Nasty Boy road legal before it gets too cold > to > play in my unheated New England garage. In order to legally operate > a motor > vehicle upon the ways of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, one > must obtain a > motor vehicle inspection sticker, known hereabouts as > "gottagetastickah" > (rhymes with "pissah"). I've had a primal fear about > inspection stickers > since 1967 when every 6 mos I'd try to get my well > used bugeye through > inspection. There was always something wrong with > it and I'd hold my breath > that it would pass and give me another six > months on the road. > So with more than a little trepidation, I > brought the Healey in to get > checked out. For older cars, it's not a > huge deal. Lights, directionals, > brake lights, brakes, emergency brake, > horn, wipers, kingpins, etc. Car guys > know which inspection stations > are hot rod friendly and which ones aren't. > Fortunately, I've got a > local guy who's sympatico with the classic car guys. > Passed with more or less flying colors. > Once > legal, I filled up the tank and did about five miles on it. So far, > I'm enthralled. It's really solid. Between the balanced rear brake > drums > and additional bracing around the doghouse, there's no scuttle > shake. It's > running about 190 degrees, which makes me a little less > concerned about the > modified stock radiator and Texas Cooler mechanical > fan. > But the most exciting thing is this car is ... uhmmm... what's > the word? > Oh yeah .... FAST! I have to admit I was always a bit > disappointed with the > performance of the Big Healey. The six is a great > sounding motor, but to me > it never had the performance to keep up with > those handsome lines. 345 hp > changes all that. The pipes sound > wonderful and it really moves! > I know I need pictures and videos, > but I've got a bunch of clean-up and > detailing to go before he's ready > for some beauty shots. > > > > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Oct 24 21:07:51 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 20:07:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 fender repair panel Message-ID: <4EA62807.90801@comcast.net> I ordered a BN2 'tall' (18" high) L/H front fender repair panel from Kilmartin. Unfortunately, they sent a panel for a BN1, which of course has a different wheel well profile than a BN2. The panel goes from the backside of the wheel well--with the wire bead--to the front shut pillar, just below the swage line. The craftsmanship is excellent, just doesn't fit a BN2. Drop me a line if interested. Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Oct 25 00:51:51 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 08:51:51 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EA65C87.9090609@chello.nl> The impedance readings seem fine. They are not overly critical. It is not a laboratory instrument but a fairly inaccurate piece of kit. If the solder in the float has cracked, clean and resolder the joints (all). If there are multiple pinholes because of corrosion replace with any fitting float, LBC, Renault, Ford etc., brass or plastic. There are many options. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 25-10-2011 0:01, Fred Wescoe schreef: > List, > > In an effort to track down the issue with a non working fuel gauge, I > removed the sending unit from the tank today. It has not worked in years > but I simply drove 100 miles and filled up to be safe. Not knowing how deep > the tank was made me not quite trust the "dip stick" method of measuring. > > On the bench, I put an ohm meter on the case and the terminal and got a low > reading (empty) of 2.5 ohms and high (full) reading of 86 ohms. Does anyone > know if this is the correct range for the sending unit? If not, how do I > adjust it and to get what readings. > > Yes, the float is full of fuel. I will drill a hole, drain it and then seal > the hole. I will try placing it in a pot of hot water to see if I can find > the leak and if I do, I will solder that closed. Or, what is the part > number for the Ford replacement float, if that is the better way to go. If > the Ford float is not hollow plastic or metal and is something that will not > hold fuel, it makes sense to simply replace the float. Which is better > repair or replace? > > I will be sending the gauge and the sending unit in for rebuilding if the > gauge still reads empty after resolving the float issue. > > What is the collective wisdom on this problem? > > I also measured the depth of the tank and it is just over 5" from the lip of > the sender hole to the bottom of the tank. This is an original tank and it > shows no or very little rust in it. I guess I just jinxed myself and it > will now start to leak. > > Thanks in advance for the knowledge. > > Fred > 63 BJ7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1831 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4571 - datum van uitgifte: 10/24/11 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Oct 25 02:56:41 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 01:56:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] Nasty Boy First Drive - I Got a Sticker! In-Reply-To: <1E1ACFA85F37420B871A7270D81BE88A@blackbox2> Message-ID: <1319533001.65417.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Funny, I had that same internal discussion before undertaking the project. I thought about building a Daytona coupe and probably could have covered the cost of the kit by selling the Healey. I'd then have to do all the fiberglass work and paint prep, priming and tons of sanding before sending it out for paint. And there's still plenty of fabrication to do on a FF. When all is said and done, it's pretty easy to get $45-65k into a coupe before it's finished. Balanced against this, I had already done all the bodywork and paint on the Healey, the swap had been done plenty of times before and I had lots of help from some guys that had done it and could give me advice on the fabrication process.. The registration and titling laws in Massachusetts were in a state of flux in Mass, at the time and some owners were having difficulty getting their cars road legal, which is ironic and stupid considering Factory Five is located here. And I've been a Healey guy for almost 45 yrs, so the decision came down for the Healey. If I was in the market for a Factory Five now, I'd probably look at a completed one. There's some great deals out there. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 10/24/11, Dean Hedin wrote: From: Dean Hedin Subject: RE: [Spridgets] Nasty Boy First Drive - I Got a Sticker! To: "'HealeyRick'" , healeys at autox.team.net, spridgets at autox.team.net, modifiedhealeys at yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, October 24, 2011, 10:30 PM Wouldn't a Factory Five Roadster kit achieve the same effect more directly? No criticism here, as I had often thought of throwing a V-8 into an old British sports car. But I look at all the fabrication issues and other hurdles and I think "Why bother?" Why did you choose to do this as opposed to doing something like a Factory Five kit? From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Tue Oct 25 06:38:11 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 07:38:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy First Drive - I Got a Sticker! In-Reply-To: <1319500877.86956.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1319500877.86956.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: CONGRATS!! get ready for the oohs and ahhs. cheers, jerry On Mon, Oct 24, 2011 at 7:01 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > I've been trying to get the Nasty Boy road legal before it gets too cold > to > play in my unheated New England garage. In order to legally operate > a motor > vehicle upon the ways of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, one > must obtain a > motor vehicle inspection sticker, known hereabouts as > "gottagetastickah" > (rhymes with "pissah"). I've had a primal fear about > inspection stickers > since 1967 when every 6 mos I'd try to get my well > used bugeye through > inspection. There was always something wrong with > it and I'd hold my breath > that it would pass and give me another six > months on the road. > So with more than a little trepidation, I > brought the Healey in to get > checked out. For older cars, it's not a > huge deal. Lights, directionals, > brake lights, brakes, emergency brake, > horn, wipers, kingpins, etc. Car guys > know which inspection stations > are hot rod friendly and which ones aren't. > Fortunately, I've got a > local guy who's sympatico with the classic car guys. > Passed with more or less flying colors. > Once > legal, I filled up the tank and did about five miles on it. So far, > I'm enthralled. It's really solid. Between the balanced rear brake > drums > and additional bracing around the doghouse, there's no scuttle > shake. It's > running about 190 degrees, which makes me a little less > concerned about the > modified stock radiator and Texas Cooler mechanical > fan. > But the most exciting thing is this car is ... uhmmm... what's > the word? > Oh yeah .... FAST! I have to admit I was always a bit > disappointed with the > performance of the Big Healey. The six is a great > sounding motor, but to me > it never had the performance to keep up with > those handsome lines. 345 hp > changes all that. The pipes sound > wonderful and it really moves! > I know I need pictures and videos, > but I've got a bunch of clean-up and > detailing to go before he's ready > for some beauty shots. > > > > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Oct 25 15:36:37 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 17:36:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Help BJ8 Windscreen Message-ID: <000f01cc935e$2d0d5880$87280980$@net> Hello all, I need the top chrome piece for a BJ8 windscreen frame. The local glass shop removing the stubborn countersunk screws at each end ruined the surrounding metal. Can anybody help? Rich Chrysler Mount Hope, Ont. From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Oct 25 20:50:34 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 22:50:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008a01cc938a$08ecfa60$1ac6ef20$@rr.com> Fred, your readings are in the normal range. You can remove the fuel and reseal the float using the method you describe. The Ford hollow brass float is not a replacement for the stock float. It is a replacement for the plastic floats that come on replacement sending units now. It is designed to clip into the end of the float arm like the plastic floats, but the stock float is soldered to the arm. The BJ8 fuel tank capacity is a little over 13 gals. U.S., so I would assume the BJ7 tank is the same. Your problem might not be with the sending unit at all (since it checks out properly), but with a non-functioning gauge. If the gauge always reads empty, try tapping on the gauge face with a finger while the ignition switch is on. It may just be stuck, which is a common problem. Make sure you have the correct resistance readings between ground and the green/black wire at the gauge, just to be sure the gauge is receiving the correct signal from the sending unit. Make sure you have 12 volts at the green wire to the gauge. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 6:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender List, In an effort to track down the issue with a non working fuel gauge, I removed the sending unit from the tank today. It has not worked in years but I simply drove 100 miles and filled up to be safe. Not knowing how deep the tank was made me not quite trust the "dip stick" method of measuring. On the bench, I put an ohm meter on the case and the terminal and got a low reading (empty) of 2.5 ohms and high (full) reading of 86 ohms. Does anyone know if this is the correct range for the sending unit? If not, how do I adjust it and to get what readings. Yes, the float is full of fuel. I will drill a hole, drain it and then seal the hole. I will try placing it in a pot of hot water to see if I can find the leak and if I do, I will solder that closed. Or, what is the part number for the Ford replacement float, if that is the better way to go. If the Ford float is not hollow plastic or metal and is something that will not hold fuel, it makes sense to simply replace the float. Which is better repair or replace? I will be sending the gauge and the sending unit in for rebuilding if the gauge still reads empty after resolving the float issue. What is the collective wisdom on this problem? I also measured the depth of the tank and it is just over 5" from the lip of the sender hole to the bottom of the tank. This is an original tank and it shows no or very little rust in it. I guess I just jinxed myself and it will now start to leak. Thanks in advance for the knowledge. Fred 63 BJ7 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Oct 25 21:12:39 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 23:12:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides In-Reply-To: <4E9EC341.6050004@comcast.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4E9E6B65.3040608@chello.nl> <4E9EC341.6050004@comcast.net> Message-ID: <009501cc938d$1ed5c660$5c815320$@rr.com> I shied away from manganese-bronze guides when I rebuilt my head because at the time (1999) there was publicity about MG XPAG engine valves seizing in bronze guides. I went with standard cast iron guides and Stellite-faced exhaust valves and I, too, have 80K miles on the engine without any valve problems. Just returned from a 1600-mile roundtrip to Southeastern Healey Classic in Alabama. I had a temporary fuel pump hiccup entering Atlanta, but switched to the backup pump and kept going. The main pump is fine now and I drove halfway home on it. Also had a leaky tire, but wouldn't you know it: I was only about 50 miles west of Hendrix Wire Wheel and heading east.... Anyone miss me? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 8:32 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valve guides FWIW, I've got bronze guides in my (iron) BJ8 head. No problems for 80K miles. Bob From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 25 23:26:52 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 22:26:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] tappets - the pits :-( Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> Are tappet pits okay? This is really embarrassing! I just sent my rocker arm and tappets to a well known re-builder. Several tappets had what I thought was extensive pitting. This occurred after 1000 miles or so since resurfacing them. However, the engine was not run since 2003 due to other issues. BTW, there was no rust on them, just a well coated oil surface after eight years of benign neglect! The re-builder told me that the pitting was minor and typical; meaning that it might reoccur after another resurfacing. What causes tappet pitting? The cam looks fine. Could it be that the tappets, are not rotating in their bores? I want to solve this problem! Help!! John Spaur '62 BT7 From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Wed Oct 26 00:08:53 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 08:08:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] tappets - the pits :-( In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi John, Resurfacing in always risky. The pitting is generaly a problem caused by surface hairline cracks. You never know if You removed enough material to completely remove the cracks or not. I would advice You to use new tappets. Go for good quality there is high load in this item. Pay attention to run in the cam again /10-15 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm before using the car. Do not let it idle before this, use mineral base oil during this - things normaly work without this, but better to go for sure/ Gergo 2011/10/26 john spaur > Are tappet pits okay? This is really embarrassing! > > I just sent my rocker arm and tappets to a well known re-builder. Several > tappets had what I thought was extensive pitting. This occurred after 1000 > miles or so since resurfacing them. However, the engine was not run since > 2003 due to other issues. BTW, there was no rust on them, just a well coated > oil surface after eight years of benign neglect! > > The re-builder told me that the pitting was minor and typical; meaning that > it might reoccur after another resurfacing. > > What causes tappet pitting? The cam looks fine. Could it be that the > tappets, are not rotating in their bores? > > I want to solve this problem! > > Help!! > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Oct 26 00:19:40 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:19:40 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] tappets - the pits :-( In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi John - Tappet surfaces are supposed to be shaped slightly convex, which when in operation causes them to spin in circles which serves to bring in oil lubrication between the tappet and cam. The spinning of the tappets is often interrupted for many common reasons, then the cam just runs over one part of the tappet for a period of time, causing pitting. Usually it breaks loose and starts spinning again then sticks again, causing more pitting. It usually isn't a major issue, but pitted tappets will eventually wear down the surface of the cam lobe causing decreased performance, but this may take 100K miles to do so. If a tappet remains unpitted, usually the cam lobe won't wear at all. If pitting is minor, I wouldn't get too worked up about it. Alan On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 1:26 PM, john spaur wrote: > Are tappet pits okay? This is really embarrassing! > > I just sent my rocker arm and tappets to a well known re-builder. Several > tappets had what I thought was extensive pitting. This occurred after 1000 > miles or so since resurfacing them. However, the engine was not run since > 2003 due to other issues. BTW, there was no rust on them, just a well coated > oil surface after eight years of benign neglect! > > The re-builder told me that the pitting was minor and typical; meaning that > it might reoccur after another resurfacing. > > What causes tappet pitting? The cam looks fine. Could it be that the > tappets, are not rotating in their bores? > > I want to solve this problem! > > Help!! > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Oct 26 03:40:53 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 20:40:53 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] tappets - the pits :-( In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hey John, The area between the tappet and camshaft, and the oil pump drive spindle gear and the driving gear on a Healey cam, are the least lubricated, and therefore highest wearing, areas of a C Series engine - easpecially in a car that is revved. Like an Austin Healey. The wear doesn't show as quickly on a Wolsley 6/110 - or a car where 4,000 rpm is the exception, not the norm. They are also the least lubricated areas on a BMC A series engine. And a BMC B series engine. When they are revved. Like a Spridget or an MGB. I'd call that a fundamental design fault. That's another discussion..... But today, I'd look at your oil, and run in procedure. The design for getting lubrication to these major components is practically non existant. It's either "drip and hope" or "splash and hope" At 1,000 miles, the wear you are describing is a lubrication issue. Not enough lube of the correct type at startup most likely. These days, I'd never reface a cam follower. Steel quality today, and hardening techiques, are far better & cheaper than they were 50 years ago. I use Dennis Welch followers. No financial interest. These days, Jeremy Welch won't sell you a billet cam without the cam followers and appropriate lube. Dennis told me it dramatically reduced warranty cost. Me? I'd replace them, and get some serious reassemly lube. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 26/10/2011, at 4:26 PM, john spaur wrote: > Are tappet pits okay? This is really embarrassing! > > I just sent my rocker arm and tappets to a well known re-builder. > Several tappets had what I thought was extensive pitting. This > occurred after 1000 miles or so since resurfacing them. However, the > engine was not run since 2003 due to other issues. BTW, there was no > rust on them, just a well coated oil surface after eight years of > benign neglect! > > The re-builder told me that the pitting was minor and typical; > meaning that it might reoccur after another resurfacing. > > What causes tappet pitting? The cam looks fine. Could it be that the > tappets, are not rotating in their bores? > > I want to solve this problem! > > Help!! > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Oct 26 05:13:41 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 22:13:41 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] tappets - the pits :-( In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2FD4FD13-4E53-4432-B40C-9BCE2C43D6E5@gmail.com> Hey John, The area between the tappet and camshaft, and the oil pump drive spindle gear and the driving gear on a Healey cam, are the least lubricated, and therefore highest wearing, areas of a C Series engine - easpecially in a car that is revved. Like an Austin Healey. The wear doesn't show as quickly on a Wolsley 6/110 - or a car where 4,000 rpm is the exception, not the norm. They are also the least lubricated areas on a BMC A series engine. And a BMC B series engine. When they are revved. Like a Spridget or an MGB. I'd call that a fundamental design fault. That's another discussion..... But today, I'd look at your oil, and run in procedure. The design for getting lubrication to these major components is practically non existant. It's either "drip and hope" or "splash and hope" At 1,000 miles, the wear you are describing is a lubrication issue. Not enough lube of the correct type at startup most likely. That's my answer. The cause was Insufficent lubrication, of the correct type, following a corrct process, at initial startup. 2nd best guess? Incorrect hardening 10 years ago. These days, I'd never reface a cam follower. Steel quality today, and hardening techiques, are far better & cheaper than they were 50 years ago. New followers, hardened with current processes. I use Dennis Welch followers. No financial interest. These days, Jeremy Welch won't sell you a billet cam without the cam followers and appropriate lube. Dennis told me it dramatically reduced warranty cost. Me? I'd replace them, and get some serious reassemly lube. Best Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 26/10/2011, at 4:26 PM, john spaur wrote: > Are tappet pits okay? This is really embarrassing! > > I just sent my rocker arm and tappets to a well known re-builder. > Several tappets had what I thought was extensive pitting. This > occurred after 1000 miles or so since resurfacing them. However, the > engine was not run since 2003 due to other issues. BTW, there was no > rust on them, just a well coated oil surface after eight years of > benign neglect! > > The re-builder told me that the pitting was minor and typical; > meaning that it might reoccur after another resurfacing. > > What causes tappet pitting? The cam looks fine. Could it be that the > tappets, are not rotating in their bores? > > I want to solve this problem! > > Help!! > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > ______________________________ From autofarm at cyg.net Wed Oct 26 05:33:42 2011 From: autofarm at cyg.net (autofarm at cyg.net) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 07:33:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Help BJ8 Windscreen In-Reply-To: <000f01cc935e$2d0d5880$87280980$@net> References: <000f01cc935e$2d0d5880$87280980$@net> Message-ID: <20111026073342.21131rn6fho89sf4@www2.cyg.net> Yes Rich, we will likely have one. I am travelling until Thursday, but will be in touch when I return,Quoting Rich Chrysler : > Hello all, > > > > I need the top chrome piece for a BJ8 windscreen frame. The local glass shop > removing the stubborn countersunk screws at each end ruined the surrounding > metal. Can anybody help? > > > > Rich Chrysler > > Mount Hope, Ont. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net From warthodson at aol.com Wed Oct 26 06:26:26 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 08:26:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Stirling Moss Message-ID: <8CE61F19D1504FD-B58-6300F@webmail-m048.sysops.aol.com> A few months ago there was a link to a "vintage" article describing Stirling Moss's race driving techniques & philosophy. I cannot find it in the archives. Can someone help me find it again, please? Thanks, Gary Hodson From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Oct 26 07:11:00 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 00:11:00 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] tappets - the pits :-( In-Reply-To: <2FD4FD13-4E53-4432-B40C-9BCE2C43D6E5@gmail.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> <2FD4FD13-4E53-4432-B40C-9BCE2C43D6E5@gmail.com> Message-ID: I just reread your email John You mean valve rocker faces. The valve rocker end that rides on the valve top? If so, sorry. It looks like I grabbed the wrong end of the valve train. In that case, the only relevant bit is "Steel quality today, and hardening techiques, are far better & cheaper than they were 50 years ago" So I'd buy new ones. Don't look at me though. Mine are alloy arms, roller tipped, in steel posts, and run hardened lash caps on the valves. Total lift with cam and offset rockers (1.65) give over .500 lift at the valves. My advice? Steel quality today, and hardening techiques, are far better & cheaper than they were 50 years ago Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 26/10/2011, at 10:13 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey John, > The area between the tappet and camshaft, and the oil pump drive > spindle gear and the driving gear on a Healey cam, are the least > lubricated, and therefore highest wearing, areas of a C Series > engine - easpecially in a car that is revved. Like an Austin Healey. > The wear doesn't show as quickly on a Wolsley 6/110 - or a car where > 4,000 rpm is the exception, not the norm. > They are also the least lubricated areas on a BMC A series engine. > And a BMC B series engine. When they are revved. Like a Spridget or > an MGB. > I'd call that a fundamental design fault. > That's another discussion..... > But today, I'd look at your oil, and run in procedure. > The design for getting lubrication to these major components is > practically non existant. It's either "drip and hope" or "splash and > hope" > At 1,000 miles, the wear you are describing is a lubrication issue. > Not enough lube of the correct type at startup most likely. > That's my answer. The cause was Insufficent lubrication, of the > correct type, following a corrct process, at initial startup. 2nd > best guess? Incorrect hardening 10 years ago. > These days, I'd never reface a cam follower. Steel quality today, > and hardening techiques, are far better & cheaper than they were 50 > years ago. New followers, hardened with current processes. > I use Dennis Welch followers. No financial interest. These days, > Jeremy Welch won't sell you a billet cam without the cam followers > and appropriate lube. Dennis told me it dramatically reduced > warranty cost. > Me? I'd replace them, and get some serious reassemly lube. > Best > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > Sent from my iPhone > > On 26/10/2011, at 4:26 PM, john spaur wrote: > >> Are tappet pits okay? This is really embarrassing! >> >> I just sent my rocker arm and tappets to a well known re-builder. >> Several tappets had what I thought was extensive pitting. This >> occurred after 1000 miles or so since resurfacing them. However, >> the engine was not run since 2003 due to other issues. BTW, there >> was no rust on them, just a well coated oil surface after eight >> years of benign neglect! >> >> The re-builder told me that the pitting was minor and typical; >> meaning that it might reoccur after another resurfacing. >> >> What causes tappet pitting? The cam looks fine. Could it be that >> the tappets, are not rotating in their bores? >> >> I want to solve this problem! >> >> Help!! >> >> John Spaur >> '62 BT7 >> ______________________________ From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Oct 26 09:13:54 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:13:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tappets - the pits :-( In-Reply-To: <2FD4FD13-4E53-4432-B40C-9BCE2C43D6E5@gmail.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> <2FD4FD13-4E53-4432-B40C-9BCE2C43D6E5@gmail.com> Message-ID: John-- I don't remember if you said what kind of oil you are using but the issue of wear to cam lobes and tappets and zinc/phosphorus levels seems to be pretty real. I'd suggest using an oil additive such as ZDDPlus in addition to a premium oil with known high levels of these two elements. Also use an appropriate assembly lube when putting things together. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 7:13 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey John, > The area between the tappet and camshaft, and the oil pump drive > spindle gear and the driving gear on a Healey cam, are the least > lubricated, and therefore highest wearing, areas of a C Series engine > - easpecially in a car that is revved. Like an Austin Healey. The wear > doesn't show as quickly on a Wolsley 6/110 - or a car where 4,000 rpm > is the exception, not the norm. > They are also the least lubricated areas on a BMC A series engine. And > a BMC B series engine. When they are revved. Like a Spridget or an MGB. > I'd call that a fundamental design fault. > That's another discussion..... > But today, I'd look at your oil, and run in procedure. > The design for getting lubrication to these major components is > practically non existant. It's either "drip and hope" or "splash and > hope" > At 1,000 miles, the wear you are describing is a lubrication issue. > Not enough lube of the correct type at startup most likely. > That's my answer. The cause was Insufficent lubrication, of the > correct type, following a corrct process, at initial startup. 2nd best > guess? Incorrect hardening 10 years ago. > These days, I'd never reface a cam follower. Steel quality today, and > hardening techiques, are far better & cheaper than they were 50 years > ago. New followers, hardened with current processes. > I use Dennis Welch followers. No financial interest. These days, > Jeremy Welch won't sell you a billet cam without the cam followers and > appropriate lube. Dennis told me it dramatically reduced warranty cost. > Me? I'd replace them, and get some serious reassemly lube. > Best > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > Sent from my iPhone > > On 26/10/2011, at 4:26 PM, john spaur wrote: > > > Are tappet pits okay? This is really embarrassing! > > > > I just sent my rocker arm and tappets to a well known re-builder. > > Several tappets had what I thought was extensive pitting. This > > occurred after 1000 miles or so since resurfacing them. However, the > > engine was not run since 2003 due to other issues. BTW, there was no > > rust on them, just a well coated oil surface after eight years of > > benign neglect! > > > > The re-builder told me that the pitting was minor and typical; > > meaning that it might reoccur after another resurfacing. > > > > What causes tappet pitting? The cam looks fine. Could it be that the > > tappets, are not rotating in their bores? > > > > I want to solve this problem! > > > > Help!! > > > > John Spaur > > '62 BT7 > > ______________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From editor_reid at hotmail.com Wed Oct 26 10:14:28 2011 From: editor_reid at hotmail.com (Reid Trummel) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 09:14:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paging John Hodgman Message-ID: Does anyone have current phone and/or email for John? His email address, hodgman at rockbridge.net, bounced. His phone number, 540.464.5362, has been disconnected. Another Healeyist disappears into witness protection? Please reply off-list. Thanks. Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA From warthodson at aol.com Wed Oct 26 11:10:06 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:10:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100S modifications In-Reply-To: References: <002b01cc8dd4$ed789e70$c869db50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CE62193E61FD06-B58-68D3B@webmail-m048.sysops.aol.com> Thanks to everyone who replied to my question concerning how the 100S engine was originally made. I find it interesting that a special block was cast for the limited production 100S engines & it demonstrates the degree that the Donald Healey Motor Company & the Austin Motor Co. were willing to go to increase performance & the importance they placed on "racing on Sunday & selling on Monday". Gary Hodson Michael S On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 10:53 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: Yes, Actually if I recall correctly the distributor on a standard 100 runs of this same gear, but because it's on the wrong side it reaches across the crank to connect, that's why the distributor drive shaft is so long on the 100. On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote: Hi Gary, I'll try to answer your questions. I'm not an expert on casting techniques but. as far as I can figure, to make the 100S block the pattern for the deck of the block was changed with repositioned bosses for the studs and incidentally more material where the generator would eventually mount. Moving the distributor to the other side of the block was necessitated by the manifolds which were located on the right side of the 100S head. The actual process of moving the distributor was not too difficult because there is already a 1/2 engine speed quill shaft over there which is used to drive the tachometer in the original 100 configuration. All they had to do was cast up a special pedestal, incorporating a tachometer drive (just like the one used on the pre BJ8 6 cylinder cars) and bolt it on. Michael Salter From djg at gavinassociates.com Wed Oct 26 11:30:30 2011 From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:30:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass Message-ID: <007701cc9404$f5b3e7d0$e11bb770$@gavinassociates.com> Is one supplier better than another to source a windshield glass for my 63 BJ7? Are they all about the same? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Dennis Gavin 63 BJ7 63 E Type roadster 48 Jeepster From dan at warner-associates.com Wed Oct 26 13:19:21 2011 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:19:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valve guides/gas gauge In-Reply-To: <009501cc938d$1ed5c660$5c815320$@rr.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111018160509.020a5d78@pop.att.yahoo.com><4E9E6B65.3040608@chello.nl> <4E9EC341.6050004@comcast.net> <009501cc938d$1ed5c660$5c815320$@rr.com> Message-ID: We all missed you. Good advice on the gas gauge. Mine sticks and one or two taps and starts working fine just as you stated. There is a little bounce from time to time and I aim to pull the sender and solder the fine wire from the float to ground at the tank as some have suggested. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 10:13 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valve guides I shied away from manganese-bronze guides when I rebuilt my head because at the time (1999) there was publicity about MG XPAG engine valves seizing in bronze guides. I went with standard cast iron guides and Stellite-faced exhaust valves and I, too, have 80K miles on the engine without any valve problems. Just returned from a 1600-mile roundtrip to Southeastern Healey Classic in Alabama. I had a temporary fuel pump hiccup entering Atlanta, but switched to the backup pump and kept going. The main pump is fine now and I drove halfway home on it. Also had a leaky tire, but wouldn't you know it: I was only about 50 miles west of Hendrix Wire Wheel and heading east.... Anyone miss me? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 8:32 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valve guides FWIW, I've got bronze guides in my (iron) BJ8 head. No problems for 80K miles. Bob _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From jhomonek at mindspring.com Wed Oct 26 13:26:54 2011 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 15:26:54 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass Message-ID: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Dennis, try Pilkington Glass. See link below: http://www.pilkington.com/north-america/usa/english/automotive/agr/pilkington+classics/default1.htm. NFI but a satisfied customer. -----Original Message----- >From: Dennis Gavin >Sent: Oct 26, 2011 1:30 PM >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass > >Is one supplier better than another to source a windshield glass for my 63 >BJ7? Are they all about the same? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > > >Dennis Gavin > >63 BJ7 > >63 E Type roadster > >48 Jeepster >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jhomonek at mindspring.com John Homonek bn7 at mindspring.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Oct 26 14:13:34 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 16:13:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass In-Reply-To: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00cf01cc941b$bdb008c0$39101a40$@verizon.net> OK I have been all over their web site and can not find anything specific to an Austin Healey or, for that matter, a catalog or how to order. Any ideas?? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John H Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:27 PM To: Dennis Gavin; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass Dennis, try Pilkington Glass. See link below: http://www.pilkington.com/north-america/usa/english/automotive/agr/pilkingto n+classics/default1.htm. NFI but a satisfied customer. -----Original Message----- >From: Dennis Gavin >Sent: Oct 26, 2011 1:30 PM >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass > >Is one supplier better than another to source a windshield glass for my >63 BJ7? Are they all about the same? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > > >Dennis Gavin > >63 BJ7 > >63 E Type roadster > >48 Jeepster >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation >$12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jhomonek at mindspring.com John Homonek bn7 at mindspring.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 26 14:22:43 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:22:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] tappets - the pits :-( In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111025215809.020dba00@pop.att.yahoo.com> <2FD4FD13-4E53-4432-B40C-9BCE2C43D6E5@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111026132046.02044648@pop.att.yahoo.com> No, I meant the tappet faces that ride on the cam. My engine is stock except for a BJ8 cam. I might replace the tappets if the Moss ones are any good. About $10 each. Thanks! John At 12:11 AM 10/27/2011 +1100, Chris Dimmock wrote: >I just reread your email John > >You mean valve rocker faces. The valve rocker end that rides on the valve top? >If so, sorry. >It looks like I grabbed the wrong end of the valve train. In that >case, the only relevant bit is >"Steel quality today, and hardening techiques, are far better & >cheaper than they were 50 years ago" >So I'd buy new ones. Don't look at me though. Mine are alloy arms, >roller tipped, in steel posts, and run hardened lash caps on the >valves. Total lift with cam and offset rockers (1.65) give over .500 >lift at the valves. >My advice? Steel quality today, and hardening techiques, are far >better & cheaper than they were 50 years ago >Best >Chris From mgcharlie at comcast.net Wed Oct 26 15:36:16 2011 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 17:36:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass In-Reply-To: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4EA87D50.9080109@comcast.net> Pilkington also owns the Triplex brand, so if they offer date coded windshields with the LOF logo, perhaps they can be talked into the same with the Triplex logo. I doubt it though. Charlie On 10/26/2011 3:26 PM, John H wrote: > Dennis, > > try Pilkington Glass. See link below: > > http://www.pilkington.com/north-america/usa/english/automotive/agr/pilkington+classics/default1.htm. > > NFI but a satisfied customer. > > > -----Original Message----- >> From: Dennis Gavin >> Sent: Oct 26, 2011 1:30 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass >> >> Is one supplier better than another to source a windshield glass for my 63 >> BJ7? Are they all about the same? Any suggestions would be appreciated. >> >> >> >> Dennis Gavin >> >> 63 BJ7 >> >> 63 E Type roadster >> >> 48 Jeepster >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jhomonek at mindspring.com > > John Homonek > bn7 at mindspring.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4575 - Release Date: 10/26/11 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From dan at warner-associates.com Wed Oct 26 16:36:10 2011 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 17:36:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass In-Reply-To: <00cf01cc941b$bdb008c0$39101a40$@verizon.net> References: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <00cf01cc941b$bdb008c0$39101a40$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <97D5C384F1CE40F6A32FC43F73B8C125@DANSTROM> Moss catalog shows part # 021-852 windshield glass, Pilkington/Triplex for BJ7/BJ8. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:14 PM To: 'John H'; 'Dennis Gavin'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass OK I have been all over their web site and can not find anything specific to an Austin Healey or, for that matter, a catalog or how to order. Any ideas?? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John H Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:27 PM To: Dennis Gavin; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass Dennis, try Pilkington Glass. See link below: http://www.pilkington.com/north-america/usa/english/automotive/agr/pilkingto n+classics/default1.htm. NFI but a satisfied customer. -----Original Message----- >From: Dennis Gavin >Sent: Oct 26, 2011 1:30 PM >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass > >Is one supplier better than another to source a windshield glass for my >63 BJ7? Are they all about the same? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > > >Dennis Gavin > >63 BJ7 > >63 E Type roadster > >48 Jeepster >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation >$12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jhomonek at mindspring.com John Homonek bn7 at mindspring.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Wed Oct 26 16:36:58 2011 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 15:36:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] How to reach Doug Reid AKA Mr. Finespanner In-Reply-To: <1319338460.34891.YahooMailClassic@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1319338460.34891.YahooMailClassic@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1319668618.35004.YahooMailNeo@web36706.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for all suggestions and replies... including one from Doug. Since then we talked and I will be all set with new fuel lines, but email just doesn't seem to work. cheers, Bert ________________________________ From: Bert Van Brande To: List Healey Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2011 7:54 PM Subject: [Healeys] How to reach Doug Reid AKA Mr. Finespanner How can I reach Doug Reid? I tried the email address he posted with on this list a couple weeks ago and tried the phone number on his price list but no success. Is everything OK? Any other method to reach him? Bert _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Oct 26 18:04:14 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 20:04:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass In-Reply-To: <97D5C384F1CE40F6A32FC43F73B8C125@DANSTROM> References: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <00cf01cc941b$bdb008c0$39101a40$@verizon.net> <97D5C384F1CE40F6A32FC43F73B8C125@DANSTROM> Message-ID: <00df01cc943b$f6c46870$e44d3950$@verizon.net> The original post was to check the Pilkington web site and that is what I was referencing. All the better that Moss has it correctly attributed (congratulations to them) but Pilkington should on their web site also unless they do not wish to sell to individuals which, also, is contrary to the original post. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 6:36 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass Moss catalog shows part # 021-852 windshield glass, Pilkington/Triplex for BJ7/BJ8. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:14 PM To: 'John H'; 'Dennis Gavin'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass OK I have been all over their web site and can not find anything specific to an Austin Healey or, for that matter, a catalog or how to order. Any ideas?? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John H Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:27 PM To: Dennis Gavin; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass Dennis, try Pilkington Glass. See link below: http://www.pilkington.com/north-america/usa/english/automotive/agr/pilkingto n+classics/default1.htm. NFI but a satisfied customer. -----Original Message----- >From: Dennis Gavin >Sent: Oct 26, 2011 1:30 PM >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass > >Is one supplier better than another to source a windshield glass for my >63 BJ7? Are they all about the same? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > > >Dennis Gavin > >63 BJ7 > >63 E Type roadster > >48 Jeepster From austinbj8 at yahoo.com Wed Oct 26 18:10:05 2011 From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 17:10:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Windshied glass Message-ID: <1319674205.45474.YahooMailClassic@web34504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many years ago I bought a windshield from this company, Lo-Can, located in Woburn, Mass. At the time they were the only ones who had any type of glass for my car. If memory serves me the glass was LOF. Tel# 800-345-9595. Just for the record, no financial interest, just a previous happy customer. John G. From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Oct 26 19:56:01 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 18:56:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Windshied glass In-Reply-To: <1319674205.45474.YahooMailClassic@web34504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1319674205.45474.YahooMailClassic@web34504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4EA8BA31.5040805@comcast.net> I give up. What's 'LOF?' Bob On 10/26/2011 5:10 PM, john gillespie wrote: > Many years ago I bought a windshield from this company, Lo-Can, located in > Woburn, Mass. > At the time they were the only ones who had any type of glass for my car. If > memory serves me the glass was LOF. Tel# 800-345-9595. Just for the record, > no financial interest, just a previous happy customer. John G. > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Oct 26 19:56:29 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 18:56:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass In-Reply-To: <00df01cc943b$f6c46870$e44d3950$@verizon.net> References: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <00cf01cc941b$bdb008c0$39101a40$@verizon.net> <97D5C384F1CE40F6A32FC43F73B8C125@DANSTROM> <00df01cc943b$f6c46870$e44d3950$@verizon.net> Message-ID: They like phone calls....:) On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 5:04 PM, John Sims wrote: > The original post was to check the Pilkington web site and that is what I > was referencing. All the better that Moss has it correctly attributed > (congratulations to them) but Pilkington should on their web site also > unless they do not wish to sell to individuals which, also, is contrary to > the original post. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist > Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 6:36 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass > > Moss catalog shows part # 021-852 windshield glass, Pilkington/Triplex for > BJ7/BJ8. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of John Sims > Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:14 PM > To: 'John H'; 'Dennis Gavin'; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass > > OK I have been all over their web site and can not find anything specific > to > an Austin Healey or, for that matter, a catalog or how to order. Any > ideas?? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of John H > Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:27 PM > To: Dennis Gavin; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass > > Dennis, > > try Pilkington Glass. See link below: > > > http://www.pilkington.com/north-america/usa/english/automotive/agr/pilkingto > n+classics/default1.htm > . > > NFI but a satisfied customer. > > > -----Original Message----- > >From: Dennis Gavin > >Sent: Oct 26, 2011 1:30 PM > >To: healeys at autox.team.net > >Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass > > > >Is one supplier better than another to source a windshield glass for my > >63 BJ7? Are they all about the same? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > > > > > > >Dennis Gavin > > > >63 BJ7 > > > >63 E Type roadster > > > >48 Jeepster > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Wed Oct 26 21:28:58 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 20:28:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Message-ID: Has anyone noticed that the newer glass pits easily. My new one (now 8-9 years old) has pitted a bit where the original one was ok except for wiper blade fine scratches but it was almost 40 years old. I've saved it in hopes of having it refinished some day. Rich Kahn From eschulz at frontiernet.net Wed Oct 26 21:35:30 2011 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 23:35:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass References: <21887864.1319657214735.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net><00cf01cc941b$bdb008c0$39101a40$@verizon.net><97D5C384F1CE40F6A32FC43F73B8C125@DANSTROM><00df01cc943b$f6c46870$e44d3950$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <60B2E6A30CBB4018BD61FA7A8C313884@655vb01> I ordered a windshied for a BJ7 from Pilkington earlier this year. Try 800-848-1351. The price was $300, but the freight was pretty steep - $110. In fact the freight would have been considerably more if I wanted it shipped to my personal address rather than to a business address. Not sure why, but probably because of not having a loading dock. It came in a huge crate. I haven't installed it yet so I can't vouch for the fit. Elton ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: "John Sims" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 9:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass > They like phone calls....:) > > On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 5:04 PM, John Sims wrote: > >> The original post was to check the Pilkington web site and that is what I >> was referencing. All the better that Moss has it correctly attributed >> (congratulations to them) but Pilkington should on their web site also >> unless they do not wish to sell to individuals which, also, is contrary >> to >> the original post. >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist >> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 6:36 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass >> >> Moss catalog shows part # 021-852 windshield glass, Pilkington/Triplex >> for >> BJ7/BJ8. >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of John Sims >> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:14 PM >> To: 'John H'; 'Dennis Gavin'; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass >> >> OK I have been all over their web site and can not find anything specific >> to >> an Austin Healey or, for that matter, a catalog or how to order. Any >> ideas?? >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of John H >> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:27 PM >> To: Dennis Gavin; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield glass >> >> Dennis, >> >> try Pilkington Glass. See link below: >> >> >> http://www.pilkington.com/north-america/usa/english/automotive/agr/pilkingto >> n+classics/default1.htm >> . >> >> NFI but a satisfied customer. >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >From: Dennis Gavin >> >Sent: Oct 26, 2011 1:30 PM >> >To: healeys at autox.team.net >> >Subject: [Healeys] windshield glass >> > >> >Is one supplier better than another to source a windshield glass for my >> >63 BJ7? Are they all about the same? Any suggestions would be >> >appreciated. >> > >> > >> > >> >Dennis Gavin >> > >> >63 BJ7 >> > >> >63 E Type roadster >> > >> >48 Jeepster >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Oct 26 21:46:52 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 23:46:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Windshied glass In-Reply-To: <4EA8BA31.5040805@comcast.net> References: <1319674205.45474.YahooMailClassic@web34504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4EA8BA31.5040805@comcast.net> Message-ID: <010d01cc945b$110b9bd0$3322d370$@verizon.net> Libby Owens Ford. Originator of laminated glass for autos. Glass portion of business bought by Pilkinton in 1986 who was bought by Nippon Glass in 2006 who discontinued the LOF brand. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 9:56 PM To: john gillespie Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshied glass I give up. What's 'LOF?' Bob On 10/26/2011 5:10 PM, john gillespie wrote: > Many years ago I bought a windshield from this company, Lo-Can, > located in Woburn, Mass. > At the time they were the only ones who had any type of glass for my > car. If memory serves me the glass was LOF. Tel# 800-345-9595. Just > for the record, no financial interest, just a previous happy customer. John G. > _______________________________________________ > > -- From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Oct 27 01:42:14 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 09:42:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EA90B56.6010300@chello.nl> "Modern" glass of a laminated construction has a much softer outer glass pane compared to the old fashioned hardened single panes. I have the impression that the last 25 odd years the outer glass is even softer than the first generations of laminated windscreens. It has to do with the prevention of shattering into a million pieces and thus completely obstructing the vision as happened with the hardened glass. If a laminated screen is hit by a small stone it may crack when the glass is to hard, so I presume they made it softer to prevent cracking but the result is that pits are formed easier and wiper scratches are more common. This is what I presume, but there may well be other causes. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 27-10-2011 5:28, Richard Kahn schreef: > Has anyone noticed that the newer glass pits easily. My new one (now 8-9 years > old) has pitted a bit where the original one was ok except for wiper blade > fine scratches but it was almost 40 years old. I've saved it in hopes of > having it refinished some day. > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1834 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4575 - datum van uitgifte: 10/26/11 From jstmorris at yahoo.com Thu Oct 27 07:58:13 2011 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 06:58:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Stirling Moss Message-ID: <1319723893.72397.YahooMailClassic@web30306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Gary Hodson; Here is an article from Canada Track & Traffic January 1961 in which Stirling Moss provides "A Driving Lesson with Stirling Moss" at Harewood Acres near Simcoe, Ontario. I am sure there are plenty of more recent articles dealing with his driving techniques & philosophy but I thought this might be of interest to you. If you received links to other articles Gary, I would certainly be interested in them. John Sims; You may find this article appropriate for your website since they used Grant Clark's championship Austin Healey that Jack Boxstrom recently purchased. This car was used owned by Bill Bolton for many year. >From what I gather, Jack Boxstrom will have it divested of all the fancy modern bits that it had been endowed with in later years ( Toyota 5 speed tranny, etc.). From what I gather, he intends to get it back to the way it was. A copy of the 1960 ad is also attached. Enjoy!! --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 10/26/11, warthodson at aol.com wrote: << A few months ago there was a link to a "vintage" article describing Stirling Moss's race driving techniques & philosophy. I cannot find it in the archives. Can someone help me find it again, please? Thanks, Gary Hodson >> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of CT&T] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of CT&T] From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Oct 27 08:28:15 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Message-ID: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? Ron Mitchell 1959 BN6 1962 BN7 From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Oct 27 09:57:24 2011 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 15:57:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove in that movie. The car is red with white inset. Jean Caron > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > Ron Mitchell > 1959 > BN6 > 1962 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From phoenix722 at comcast.net Thu Oct 27 10:09:52 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 09:09:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bn Message-ID: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> Quick question. Can someone explain the signifigance of BN, BJ, etc.? Do the initials stand for something? Mike BN2 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Oct 27 11:25:14 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 10:25:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: References: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but no Healeys.... On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove > in > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > Jean Caron > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder > > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > > > Ron Mitchell > > 1959 > > BN6 > > 1962 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > tmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Oct 27 11:57:21 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 10:57:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> Message-ID: Mike, Simple yet confusing... B - refers to the engine size between 2 and 3 liter. N - refers to two seater, but not always as in the case of the BN4. Go figure. T - are the four seaters J - are the convertibles The number is the series. The L suffix is for left hand drive SO BN1L is.. B = 2 to 3 liter engine N = Two seater 1 = First car in series L = Left hand drive (there was no "R" suffix, just nothing) BTW the front of a Moss catalog explains all this information. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 9:09 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > Quick question. Can someone explain the signifigance of BN, BJ, etc.? Do > the > initials stand for something? > > Mike > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Oct 27 11:59:00 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 13:59:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> Message-ID: <014c01cc94d2$1b7f1ca0$527d55e0$@verizon.net> B means engine displacement between 2000cc and 3000 cc N means two seat tourer T means four seat tourer (except for the BN4 which is a four seat tourer) J means convertible (top fixed as opposed to completely removeable as in the N series cars. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sinclair Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 12:10 PM To: Healey Forum Subject: [Healeys] bn Quick question. Can someone explain the signifigance of BN, BJ, etc.? Do the initials stand for something? Mike BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 27 12:21:07 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 11:21:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1319739667.9958.YahooMailClassic@web180102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Oh come on you guys, whose gonna be looking at the cars anyway when Amber Heard is present in the film. You need to step out of your Man Caves for awhile. Mark L --- On Thu, 10/27/11, Jean Caron wrote: From: Jean Caron Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary To: healeyron at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, October 27, 2011, 11:57 AM According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove in that movie. The car is red with white inset. Jean Caron > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > Ron Mitchell > 1959 > BN6 > 1962 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Thu Oct 27 12:36:54 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 14:36:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Message-ID: <216aa.6b7fb0e5.3bdafec6@aol.com> Then you didn't search far enough, the Austin-Healey is driven by Aaron Eckhardt's character and Johnny Depp is a passenger in it. Interesting car, the spears are on the wrong sides, it sports red line tires, which I must admit I did put on my last 3000 and they looked great and only rubbed once in a while and as far as I know, isn't featured in any of the trailers. The photos of Depp in the car have been out for over a year now. Here's the link to the cars in the movie: _http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-wi th-some-very-cool-rides/3885_ (http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-with-some-very-cool-rides/3885) Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 10/27/2011 11:19:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, eyera3000 at gmail.com writes: I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but no Healeys.... On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove > in > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > Jean Caron > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder > > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > > > Ron Mitchell > > 1959 > > BN6 > > 1962 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > tmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Oct 27 12:49:13 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 11:49:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1319741353.64162.YahooMailNeo@web161003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> The following link has two trailers. The first trailer shows the Healey on the road at 1 min 35 seconds into the clip. The second trailer shows Depp in the passenger seat at 35 seconds into the clip. http://movies.yahoo.com/movie/1810077951/video/27031044 Yes there is also a scene where he is driving the 59 Corvette. Ron Mitchell 1959 BN6 1962 BN7 ________________________________ From: Ron Mitchell To: Healey List Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 10:28 AM Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? Ron Mitchell 1959 BN6 1962 BN7 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Oct 27 12:51:05 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 11:51:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: <216aa.6b7fb0e5.3bdafec6@aol.com> References: <216aa.6b7fb0e5.3bdafec6@aol.com> Message-ID: Thanks, very cool I could not imagine a Healeyista mistaking a Healey for a Corvette. Glad know its in the movie. On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 11:36 AM, wrote: > ** > Then you didn't search far enough, the Austin-Healey is driven by Aaron > Eckhardt's character and Johnny Depp is a passenger in it. Interesting car, > the spears are on the wrong sides, it sports red line tires, which I must > admit I did put on my last 3000 and they looked great and only rubbed once > in a while and as far as I know, isn't featured in any of the trailers. The > photos of Depp in the car have been out for over a year now. Here's the link > to the cars in the movie: > > http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-with-some-very-cool-rides/3885 > > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > In a message dated 10/27/2011 11:19:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > eyera3000 at gmail.com writes: > > I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows > a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but no > Healeys.... > > On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > > > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he > drove > > in > > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > > > Jean Caron > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > > > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > > > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. > Wonder > > > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > > > > > Ron Mitchell > > > 1959 > > > BN6 > > > 1962 BN7 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > > tmail.com< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho%0Atmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage : > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Oct 27 12:59:04 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 18:59:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1560308391.1080272.1319741944365.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Look here at about 1:36: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m0yqS3jodU Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: "Jean Caron" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 10:25:14 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but no Healeys.... On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove > in > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > Jean Caron From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Oct 27 13:00:30 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 19:00:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2015299603.1080341.1319742030336.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-with-some-very-cool-rides/3885 -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: "Jean Caron" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 10:25:14 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but no Healeys.... On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove > in > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > Jean Caron > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder > > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > > > Ron Mitchell > > 1959 > > BN6 > > 1962 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > tmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Oct 27 13:13:24 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 12:13:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1319742804.63966.YahooMailNeo@web161009.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> This Link take you to an E3 Spark Plug page showing Johnny Depp & Aaron Eckhart sitting in a Colorado Red MkI BN7. http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-with -some-very-cool-rides/3885 Ron Mitchell 1959 BN6 1962 BN7 ________________________________ From: Ron Mitchell To: Healey List Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 10:28 AM Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? Ron Mitchell 1959 BN6 1962 BN7 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From healey at hunterbane.com Thu Oct 27 13:21:32 2011 From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 15:21:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: References: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4EA9AF3C.2010009@hunterbane.com> There is definitely a red Healey in the trailer, as well as a red vette. The Healey was only shown for about 2 seconds. On 10/27/2011 1:25 PM, I Erbs wrote: > I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows > a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but no > Healeys.... > > On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron< > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > >> According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove >> in >> that movie. The car is red with white inset. >> >> Jean Caron >> >> >>> Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 >>> From: healeyron at yahoo.com >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary >>> >>> I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him >>> riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder >>> who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? >>> >>> Ron Mitchell >>> 1959 >>> BN6 >>> 1962 BN7 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho >> tmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From charliebt7 at gmail.com Thu Oct 27 13:53:56 2011 From: charliebt7 at gmail.com (Charlie O'Connors) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 14:53:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: References: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <079E1FAE-DC9A-46A9-AF00-B93D73677F35@gmail.com> Watch the video at 1:34 Http://www.rumsiarythemovie.com Charlie O'Connors Sent from My iPhone On Oct 27, 2011, at 12:25 PM, I Erbs wrote: > I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows > a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but no > Healeys.... > > On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > >> According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove >> in >> that movie. The car is red with white inset. >> >> Jean Caron >> >> >>> Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 >>> From: healeyron at yahoo.com >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary >>> >>> I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him >>> riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder >>> who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? >>> >>> Ron Mitchell >>> 1959 >>> BN6 >>> 1962 BN7 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho >> tmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/charliebt7 at gmail.com From m.fawcett at verizon.net Thu Oct 27 14:19:32 2011 From: m.fawcett at verizon.net (m.fawcett) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 13:19:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: References: <1319725695.78536.YahooMailNeo@web161020.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sorry to disagree but that is clearly a red Healey roadster. Mark Fawcett On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 10:25 AM, I Erbs wrote: > I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows > a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but no > Healeys.... > > On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > > > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he > drove > > in > > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > > > Jean Caron > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > > > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > > > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. > Wonder > > > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > > > > > Ron Mitchell > > > 1959 > > > BN6 > > > 1962 BN7 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > > tmail.com< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho%0Atmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage : > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at verizon.net From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Oct 27 14:38:57 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 07:38:57 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> Message-ID: <57294621D5C84C8DACAEE41FC0120367@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Mike Austin-Healey nomenclature will probably always remain a mystery of life, unless someone who was within the corridors of Longbridge or Abingdon lets out the secret. Yes everyone is correct, BN generally means a two-seater roadster, the four seater roadsters are the BTs and BJ stands for the convertible models. However then how do you explain the BN4? My car, the BN3/1 is a four-seater six-cylinder motor car, in fact it was the first four-seater Austin-Healey built. It wasn't the Donald Healey Motor Company who set out to confuse owners of the future, for if it was, my car wouldn't be a BN series car. My guess is that someone at Longbridge or Abingdon got it within their head that there should be some way of differentiating between the 4 and 2 seater cars. For some reason this didn't happen through the build period of the 100/6, but probably when the 3000 was under design. Confusing? Sure is. But after being involved for forty years it all becomes clear. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sinclair Sent: Friday, 28 October 2011 3:10 AM To: Healey Forum Subject: [Healeys] bn Quick question. Can someone explain the signifigance of BN, BJ, etc.? Do the initials stand for something? Mike BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From peter.svilans at rogers.com Thu Oct 27 15:07:26 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 17:07:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Message-ID: <2CC74D33D7044DBD9E8F083E4AB2675B@9535DEE118EC44B> The right side windshield post has the little "L" shaped clip for the Amco windwings but the left side doesn't. Peter From Healey100M at gmail.com Thu Oct 27 15:56:46 2011 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 17:56:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <57294621D5C84C8DACAEE41FC0120367@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> <57294621D5C84C8DACAEE41FC0120367@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <9D457EA0-15B3-4E28-A6A3-A419AF00C79A@gmail.com> True of most things!!!! :-) Woman being the exception. :-) Randy On Oct 27, 2011, at 4:38 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > Confusing? Sure is. But after being involved for forty years it all becomes > clear. From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Oct 27 17:41:02 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 16:41:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: <1319739667.9958.YahooMailClassic@web180102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1319739667.9958.YahooMailClassic@web180102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I guess everyone on the list but you :) I can enjoy hot chicks and cars without being confused or distracted.... On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 11:21 AM, mark lapierre wrote: > Oh come on you guys, whose gonna be looking at the cars anyway when Amber > Heard is > present in the film. You need to step out of your Man Caves for awhile. > > Mark L > > --- On Thu, 10/27/11, Jean Caron > > wrote: > > > From: Jean Caron > Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > To: healeyron at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thursday, October 27, 2011, 11:57 AM > > > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he drove > in > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > Jean Caron > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. Wonder > > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > > > Ron Mitchell > > 1959 > > BN6 > > 1962 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > tmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 27 23:37:15 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 22:37:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] shim value springs? Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027222944.02086380@pop.att.yahoo.com> I was looking for an oil pump and noticed Denis Welch had valve spring shims for sale. By coincidence I am rebuilding the engine head and noticed that it had valve spring shims which I must have reinstalled when I put NOS valve springs in the engine several years ago because the ones that were replaced were out of spec. How does one go about determining whether shims are needed (or wanted for some reason)? How do you measure for them or what is the selection criteria? Just curious. John Spaur '62 BT7 From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Fri Oct 28 06:40:55 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 07:40:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> Message-ID: in addition to the moss catalog, strange as it may seem, the info is contained in the general information section of the workshop manual. cheers, On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 11:09 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > Quick question. Can someone explain the signifigance of BN, BJ, etc.? Do > the > initials stand for something? > > Mike > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Oct 28 07:04:07 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 06:04:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] shim value springs? In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027222944.02086380@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027222944.02086380@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4EAAA847.5000600@comcast.net> John, I believe the test is to compress the spring to a specific pressure value, then measure the height of the spring. If it's not 'tall' enough compressed then shims are needed. There is a special rig to do this--which looks kinda like an arbor press with a pressure gauge--or may be done other ways: http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/comp-cams-how-valve-spring-tech-2047.htm http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTips/valve_spring_inserts.htm You can only use so much shim before the springs will bind. Bob On 10/27/2011 10:37 PM, john spaur wrote: > I was looking for an oil pump and noticed Denis Welch had valve spring shims for sale. By coincidence I am rebuilding > the engine head and noticed that it had valve spring shims which I must have reinstalled when I put NOS valve springs > in the engine several years ago because the ones that were replaced were out of spec. > > How does one go about determining whether shims are needed (or wanted for some reason)? How do you measure for them or > what is the selection criteria? > > Just curious. > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From phoenix722 at comcast.net Fri Oct 28 09:29:30 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 08:29:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bn References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> Message-ID: <5E9A61A866854BFAA901383B3E0FC748@Mike> Great idea, but apparently not in the BN1 manual. (I was kind of relieved to see it wasn't there, would have been a "doh" moment!) In any case, appreciate the info from all, although still not sure where the designations N, J, T originated. Maybe they are part of a larger system. Regards, Mike ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- ----- Original Message ----- From: jerry wall To: Mike Sinclair Cc: Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 5:40 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] bn in addition to the moss catalog, strange as it may seem, the info is contained in the general information section of the workshop manual. cheers, On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 11:09 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: Quick question. Can someone explain the signifigance of BN, BJ, etc.? Do the initials stand for something? Mike BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Fri Oct 28 10:09:32 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 11:09:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <5E9A61A866854BFAA901383B3E0FC748@Mike> References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> <5E9A61A866854BFAA901383B3E0FC748@Mike> Message-ID: mike, these were part of the overall BMC i.d. code starting with A for ambulance and ending with X for taxi. the N, J and T had no particular relevence other than this is where they happened to fall in the alphabet. cheers, jerry On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 10:29 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > ** > Great idea, but apparently not in the BN1 manual. (I was kind of relieved > to see it wasn't there, would have been a "doh" moment!) In any case, > appreciate the info from all, although still not sure where the designations > N, J, T originated. Maybe they are part of a larger system. > > Regards, Mike > ------------------------------ > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* jerry wall > *To:* Mike Sinclair > *Cc:* > *Sent:* Friday, October 28, 2011 5:40 AM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] bn > > in addition to the moss catalog, strange as it may seem, the info is > contained in the general information section of the workshop manual. > cheers, > > On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 11:09 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > >> Quick question. Can someone explain the signifigance of BN, BJ, etc.? Do >> the >> initials stand for something? >> >> Mike >> BN2 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com >> > > > > -- > jerry wall BN6 > rowlett, tx > > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Oct 28 10:41:26 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 12:41:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <5E9A61A866854BFAA901383B3E0FC748@Mike> References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> <5E9A61A866854BFAA901383B3E0FC748@Mike> Message-ID: <025401cc9590$706358d0$512a0a70$@verizon.net> The designations are British. Enough said. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sinclair Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 11:30 AM To: jerry wall Cc: Healey Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] bn Great idea, but apparently not in the BN1 manual. (I was kind of relieved to see it wasn't there, would have been a "doh" moment!) In any case, appreciate the info from all, although still not sure where the designations N, J, T originated. Maybe they are part of a larger system. Regards, Mike ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --- ----- Original Message ----- From: jerry wall To: Mike Sinclair Cc: Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 5:40 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] bn in addition to the moss catalog, strange as it may seem, the info is contained in the general information section of the workshop manual. cheers, On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 11:09 AM, Mike Sinclair wrote: Quick question. Can someone explain the signifigance of BN, BJ, etc.? Do the initials stand for something? Mike BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From peter.svilans at rogers.com Fri Oct 28 11:30:08 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 13:30:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn Message-ID: <2610969A7726484F91EFB63BF5364F98@9535DEE118EC44B> Hi Mike They are indeed part of a larger system used by BMC. !st letter (name): A- Austin G- MG H- Healey M- Morris R- Riley W- Wolseley 2nd letter (cubic capacity): L- up to 799cc A- 800cc- 999cc G- 1000- 1399cc H- 1400- 1999cc B- 2000- 2999cc D- 3000- 3999cc 3rd letter (body type): A- Ambulance C- Chassis D- Coupe E- GPO Engineers (post office) G- GPO Mail H- Hearse J- Convertible K- Truck L- Hire Car M- Limousine N- 2-seat Tourer P- Hard Top O- Chassis and Cab R- Chassis and Scuttle S- 4-door Saloon 2S- 2-door Saloon T- 4-Seat Tourer U- Pickup V- Van W- Dual Purpose X- Taxi They didn't really think of the BN4 as a true 4-seater at first. Geoffrey Healey says in his book "It was euphemistically called an occasional four seater" Best Peter From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Oct 28 11:36:33 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 13:36:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <5E9A61A866854BFAA901383B3E0FC748@Mike> References: <9D60B5D512B44B37BFFBF6CE4F697045@Mike> <5E9A61A866854BFAA901383B3E0FC748@Mike> Message-ID: <001401cc9598$230bb840$692328c0$@rr.com> All manufacturers use such codes in the VIN to designate different things concerning the vehicle. The N, J, T, etc. were just BMC code letters for "Two-Seat Tourer", "Convertible", "Four-Seat Tourer", etc. and were part of the code system applied to all BMC cars, not just Austin-Healeys. Why BMC chose to use an "N" to mean "Two-Seat Tourer", only BMC would know. Other codes used were: A = Ambulance D = Coupe S = 4-door Saloon V = Van H = Hearse K = Truck P = Hardtop 2S = 2-door Saloon U = Pickup W = Taxi Late in BJ8 production, BMC made changes in their codes. What used to be an "L" in the VIN (HBJ8L/XXXXX) now became a "U" to mean the same thing (North American specification), and a "G" was added to the end to designate a vehicle assembled at the MG Abingdon factory (HBJ8U/XXXXX G). All BJ8s were assembled there, of course, but now there was a code letter to show that. The codes were applied to all vehicle lines. My 1973 MG Midget has the "U" for North American specification and the "G" on the end of the VIN: GAN5UD126009 G, so it also came out of the MG factory at Abingdon. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sinclair Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 11:30 AM To: jerry wall Cc: Healey Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] bn Great idea, but apparently not in the BN1 manual. (I was kind of relieved to see it wasn't there, would have been a "doh" moment!) In any case, appreciate the info from all, although still not sure where the designations N, J, T originated. Maybe they are part of a larger system. Regards, Mike From peter.svilans at rogers.com Fri Oct 28 12:27:03 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 14:27:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn Message-ID: Further to the BN 4: The Healeys were no fools. They did not see the addition of two shallow tractor seats as anything much different than a TR3 with a flat one-inch foam pad behind the seats, and which was certainly not called a four seater. So it was a two seat tourer. Perhaps in 1959 the Austin lawyers got on their case saying "If we are marketing it as a four-seater, it had better be called one !" In "The Healey Story' Geoffrey says: "The Austin engineers could not comprehend that the vehicle was designed to carry a maximum of two adults plus two children. In their book cars were two-seaters, four seaters, and cars to carry more than four people. The Austin Road Test Department insisted that the car should be tested with four adults squeezed on board like any of their other products. As a result, the rear springs had a higher rate than those on the four-cylinder cars". So maybe this unyielding attitude was responsible for the change to the "T" designation. Peter From rjswain at hotmail.com Fri Oct 28 12:51:44 2011 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 18:51:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Jule Frame Message-ID: I have a friend who has decided to put a new frame under his Healey. We know what's involved - I did it myself using a Kilmartin frame. He's considering a Jule since he could drive to Ontario and pick up the frame. We know the Jule doesn't look like the original - that's not a problem for him. I've heard great things about the performance of Martin's frames but it seems that everybody who has raved about them has shipped, dropped off or had Martin pick up their car and had him do the work. My friend will be doing the work himself (with the help of a great fabricator) and that's who I'd like to have share their experience - people who have bought a Jule frame and installed it themselves. We'd appreciate any insights you can provide. You can reply to me off list. Thanks Rick Swain'59 BN4 From mgcharlie at comcast.net Fri Oct 28 13:32:09 2011 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 15:32:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <2610969A7726484F91EFB63BF5364F98@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <2610969A7726484F91EFB63BF5364F98@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <4EAB0339.2070005@comcast.net> So those of us that have other BMC cars can decode the suffix the same way. A Bugeye would be HAN. Are later Sprites HGN? An MGB would be GHN. Anybody have an MGB GT? What is the suffix for that? A MIdget would be GAN as Steve Byers said, but would not a '73 be a 1275 and therefore GGN? Perhaps this along with the Sprite above would keep the same designation throughout it's lifetime, even if a smaller capacity engine is enlarged later? Yes, it is confusing. On 10/28/2011 1:30 PM, Peter Svilans wrote: > Hi Mike > > They are indeed part of a larger system used by BMC. > > !st letter (name): > A- Austin > G- MG > H- Healey > M- Morris > R- Riley > W- Wolseley > > 2nd letter (cubic capacity): > L- up to 799cc > A- 800cc- 999cc > G- 1000- 1399cc > H- 1400- 1999cc > B- 2000- 2999cc > D- 3000- 3999cc > > 3rd letter (body type): > A- Ambulance > C- Chassis > D- Coupe > E- GPO Engineers (post office) > G- GPO Mail > H- Hearse > J- Convertible > K- Truck > L- Hire Car > M- Limousine > N- 2-seat Tourer > P- Hard Top > O- Chassis and Cab > R- Chassis and Scuttle > S- 4-door Saloon > 2S- 2-door Saloon > T- 4-Seat Tourer > U- Pickup > V- Van > W- Dual Purpose > X- Taxi > > They didn't really think of the BN4 as a true 4-seater at first. Geoffrey > Healey says in his book "It was euphemistically called an occasional four > seater" > > Best > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Oct 28 13:33:15 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 12:33:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <2610969A7726484F91EFB63BF5364F98@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <2610969A7726484F91EFB63BF5364F98@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: "They didn't really think of the BN4 as a true 4-seater at first. Geoffrey Healey says in his book "It was euphemistically called an occasional four seater" Only plausible explanation..... On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 10:30 AM, Peter Svilans wrote: > Hi Mike > > They are indeed part of a larger system used by BMC. > > !st letter (name): > A- Austin > G- MG > H- Healey > M- Morris > R- Riley > W- Wolseley > > 2nd letter (cubic capacity): > L- up to 799cc > A- 800cc- 999cc > G- 1000- 1399cc > H- 1400- 1999cc > B- 2000- 2999cc > D- 3000- 3999cc > > 3rd letter (body type): > A- Ambulance > C- Chassis > D- Coupe > E- GPO Engineers (post office) > G- GPO Mail > H- Hearse > J- Convertible > K- Truck > L- Hire Car > M- Limousine > N- 2-seat Tourer > P- Hard Top > O- Chassis and Cab > R- Chassis and Scuttle > S- 4-door Saloon > 2S- 2-door Saloon > T- 4-Seat Tourer > U- Pickup > V- Van > W- Dual Purpose > X- Taxi > > They didn't really think of the BN4 as a true 4-seater at first. Geoffrey > Healey says in his book "It was euphemistically called an occasional four > seater" > > Best > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From cleona44 at hotmail.com Fri Oct 28 14:11:16 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 16:11:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early Longbridge BN4 tool bag Message-ID: Does anyone have a early Longbridge BN4 tool bag or a photo of this rare creature. Thanks for any assistance that you can provide jim lesher From phoenix722 at comcast.net Fri Oct 28 14:46:08 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 13:46:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bn References: <2610969A7726484F91EFB63BF5364F98@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: "occasional" is the correct word. My college roomate owned a Singer. Same word. Regards, Mike ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Svilans To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 10:30 AM Subject: [Healeys] bn Hi Mike They are indeed part of a larger system used by BMC. !st letter (name): A- Austin G- MG H- Healey M- Morris R- Riley W- Wolseley 2nd letter (cubic capacity): L- up to 799cc A- 800cc- 999cc G- 1000- 1399cc H- 1400- 1999cc B- 2000- 2999cc D- 3000- 3999cc 3rd letter (body type): A- Ambulance C- Chassis D- Coupe E- GPO Engineers (post office) G- GPO Mail H- Hearse J- Convertible K- Truck L- Hire Car M- Limousine N- 2-seat Tourer P- Hard Top O- Chassis and Cab R- Chassis and Scuttle S- 4-door Saloon 2S- 2-door Saloon T- 4-Seat Tourer U- Pickup V- Van W- Dual Purpose X- Taxi They didn't really think of the BN4 as a true 4-seater at first. Geoffrey Healey says in his book "It was euphemistically called an occasional four seater" Best Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net From phoenix722 at comcast.net Fri Oct 28 14:51:21 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 13:51:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bn References: Message-ID: Well, my TD had a compartment behind the seats that could be used as a seat, provided you didn't have legs and such, and it was good weather. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Svilans To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 11:27 AM Subject: [Healeys] bn Further to the BN 4: The Healeys were no fools. They did not see the addition of two shallow tractor seats as anything much different than a TR3 with a flat one-inch foam pad behind the seats, and which was certainly not called a four seater. So it was a two seat tourer. Perhaps in 1959 the Austin lawyers got on their case saying "If we are marketing it as a four-seater, it had better be called one !" In "The Healey Story' Geoffrey says: "The Austin engineers could not comprehend that the vehicle was designed to carry a maximum of two adults plus two children. In their book cars were two-seaters, four seaters, and cars to carry more than four people. The Austin Road Test Department insisted that the car should be tested with four adults squeezed on board like any of their other products. As a result, the rear springs had a higher rate than those on the four-cylinder cars". So maybe this unyielding attitude was responsible for the change to the "T" designation. Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net From mgcharlie at comcast.net Fri Oct 28 14:53:58 2011 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 16:53:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Jule Frame In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EAB1666.6010302@comcast.net> Please don't reply off list. I'm sure that many others are interested in what you have to say on this subject. Charlie On 10/28/2011 2:51 PM, Rick Swain wrote: > I have a friend who has decided to put a new frame under his Healey. We know > what's involved - I did it myself using a Kilmartin frame. He's considering a > Jule since he could drive to Ontario and pick up the frame. We know the Jule > doesn't look like the original - that's not a problem for him. I've heard > great things about the performance of Martin's frames but it seems that > everybody who has raved about them has shipped, dropped off or had Martin pick > up their car and had him do the work. My friend will be doing the work himself > (with the help of a great fabricator) and that's who I'd like to have share > their experience - people who have bought a Jule frame and installed it > themselves. > We'd appreciate any insights you can provide. You can reply to me off list. > Thanks > Rick Swain'59 BN4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Oct 28 15:09:51 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 17:09:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <4EAB0339.2070005@comcast.net> References: <2610969A7726484F91EFB63BF5364F98@9535DEE118EC44B> <4EAB0339.2070005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <005601cc95b5$ef1fce40$cd5f6ac0$@rr.com> Yeah, according to the code definitions my 1275 Midget should be GGN instead of GAN. The codes changed over time, and evidence from documenting BJ8 data proves to me that these changes weren't always done in any strict consistent manner. Some early cars got late number formats, and some late one got the earlier format, and some got a mixture of both early and late. The lists like those below are useful, but are not 100% reality. A couple years ago, someone provided a strange VIN plate to me for identification. It was obviously a BMC plate and as much as we could make out from the available data it was from an Austin sedan; but we couldn't completely make the VIN match up with any list of codes available. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 3:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] bn So those of us that have other BMC cars can decode the suffix the same way. A Bugeye would be HAN. Are later Sprites HGN? An MGB would be GHN. Anybody have an MGB GT? What is the suffix for that? A MIdget would be GAN as Steve Byers said, but would not a '73 be a 1275 and therefore GGN? Perhaps this along with the Sprite above would keep the same designation throughout it's lifetime, even if a smaller capacity engine is enlarged later? Yes, it is confusing. On 10/28/2011 1:30 PM, Peter Svilans wrote: > Hi Mike > > They are indeed part of a larger system used by BMC. > > !st letter (name): > A- Austin > G- MG > H- Healey From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Oct 28 15:50:36 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 17:50:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <4EAB0339.2070005@comcast.net> References: <2610969A7726484F91EFB63BF5364F98@9535DEE118EC44B> <4EAB0339.2070005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00b001cc95bb$a058aa10$e109fe30$@net> An MGB/GT is coded GHD..... no confusion there. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: 2011-10-28 3:32 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] bn So those of us that have other BMC cars can decode the suffix the same way. A Bugeye would be HAN. Are later Sprites HGN? An MGB would be GHN. Anybody have an MGB GT? What is the suffix for that? A MIdget would be GAN as Steve Byers said, but would not a '73 be a 1275 and therefore GGN? Perhaps this along with the Sprite above would keep the same designation throughout it's lifetime, even if a smaller capacity engine is enlarged later? Yes, it is confusing. On 10/28/2011 1:30 PM, Peter Svilans wrote: > Hi Mike > > They are indeed part of a larger system used by BMC. > > !st letter (name): > A- Austin > G- MG > H- Healey > M- Morris > R- Riley > W- Wolseley > > 2nd letter (cubic capacity): > L- up to 799cc > A- 800cc- 999cc > G- 1000- 1399cc > H- 1400- 1999cc > B- 2000- 2999cc > D- 3000- 3999cc > > 3rd letter (body type): > A- Ambulance > C- Chassis > D- Coupe > E- GPO Engineers (post office) > G- GPO Mail > H- Hearse > J- Convertible > K- Truck > L- Hire Car > M- Limousine > N- 2-seat Tourer > P- Hard Top > O- Chassis and Cab > R- Chassis and Scuttle > S- 4-door Saloon > 2S- 2-door Saloon > T- 4-Seat Tourer > U- Pickup > V- Van > W- Dual Purpose > X- Taxi > > They didn't really think of the BN4 as a true 4-seater at first. Geoffrey > Healey says in his book "It was euphemistically called an occasional four > seater" > > Best > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From peter.svilans at rogers.com Fri Oct 28 15:56:42 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 17:56:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn Message-ID: <99A81977BF114EDB9E6FF960A3405E3F@9535DEE118EC44B> Charlie, The Spridgets continued to use the same BMC code letters as the first models throughout their long run, ignoring the increases of engine size, which would have meant a change in the second letter : Bugeye: HAN5 Sprite MK II, Midget Mk I: HAN 6, GAN 1 Sprite Mk III, Midget Mk 2: HAN 7, GAN 2 ......and so on up to: Sprite Mk IV, Midget Mk 3: HAN 10, GAN 5 (HAN 10 changed to AAN 10 when "Healey" was dropped.) (The Spitfire-engined Midget 1500 was GAN 6) The MGA at first used their old Nuffield system, in which H stood for MG MGA, the second letter D for open 2 seater or M for coupe, the third for colour. Then it changed to the standard BMC system, where the MGA was a GHN roadster or GHD coupe. The MGA Twin Cam used its own unique system based on the old Nuffield one. It was always a Y. The MGB used the standard BMC system, where they were all GHN roadsters or GHD coupes, with series 3 being the MK I, 4 being MK II, and up to 1979 being 5. Except for the MGC. The H should have been replaced by B for the six cylinder's displacement, but they used C instead, 'cause it was cool. For the V8, they returned to the BMC system, using a D for displacement. But the body was now 2D for two door coupe (despite there being three doors). And the last year of the MGB went to the new Leyland VIN number system. Best Peter From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Oct 28 16:34:53 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 06:34:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Jule Frame In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rick - It depends on what your friend wants for his car. If he wants that modern car handling experience, then the Jule Frame is an appropriate choice. Martin will be a first rate gentleman to his client and strive to get the job done well and professionally. If he's looking to have a classic car experience when driving and showing, then Kilmartin. The good thing here is since you did a Kilmartin on your car, you can advise and help your friend with this. Note, in my opinion the original frame still provides for excellent handling... frankly almost as good as a modern car. If your friend seeks to maintain the value of all the work and money he will put in his car, then Kilmartin is the only way to go. This is said with nothing but respect for Martin, but his frame doesn't really ad to the underlying value of the car, that's the main drawback with his product. Alan On 10/29/11, Rick Swain wrote: > I have a friend who has decided to put a new frame under his Healey. We know > what's involved - I did it myself using a Kilmartin frame. He's considering > a > Jule since he could drive to Ontario and pick up the frame. We know the Jule > doesn't look like the original - that's not a problem for him. I've heard > great things about the performance of Martin's frames but it seems that > everybody who has raved about them has shipped, dropped off or had Martin > pick > up their car and had him do the work. My friend will be doing the work > himself > (with the help of a great fabricator) and that's who I'd like to have share > their experience - people who have bought a Jule frame and installed it > themselves. > We'd appreciate any insights you can provide. You can reply to me off list. > Thanks > Rick Swain'59 BN4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From ynotink at msn.com Fri Oct 28 17:27:24 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 23:27:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: <216aa.6b7fb0e5.3bdafec6@aol.com> References: <216aa.6b7fb0e5.3bdafec6@aol.com> Message-ID: I'll never understand the backward side spears thing. Is it just ignorance or do the owners actually think they are better stylists than Gerry Coker? Idiots! Bill Lawrence PS: I hope this doesn't hurt any feelings, but if the shoe fits... > From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 14:36:54 -0400 > To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > Then you didn't search far enough, the Austin-Healey is driven by Aaron > Eckhardt's character and Johnny Depp is a passenger in it. Interesting car, > the spears are on the wrong sides, it sports red line tires, which I must > admit I did put on my last 3000 and they looked great and only rubbed once in > a while and as far as I know, isn't featured in any of the trailers. The > photos of Depp in the car have been out for over a year now. Here's the link > to the cars in the movie: > _http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-wi > th-some-very-cool-rides/3885_ > (http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-wit h-some-very-cool-rides/3885) > > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > > In a message dated 10/27/2011 11:19:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > eyera3000 at gmail.com writes: > > I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly shows > a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but > no > Healeys.... > > On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > > > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he > drove > > in > > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > > > Jean Caron > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > > > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows him > > > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. > Wonder > > > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > > > > > Ron Mitchell > > > 1959 > > > BN6 > > > 1962 BN7 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > > > tmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage : > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Oct 28 18:57:27 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 17:57:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] bn In-Reply-To: <99A81977BF114EDB9E6FF960A3405E3F@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <1319849847.30807.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Peter, I think you're right as far as the Sprite MK II and Midget Mark I cars go, but no bugeye/frogeye carried the "H" prefix. They were all AN5s. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 10/28/11, Peter Svilans wrote: From: Peter Svilans Subject: [Healeys] bn To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, October 28, 2011, 5:56 PM Charlie, The Spridgets continued to use the same BMC code letters as the first models throughout their long run, ignoring the increases of engine size, which would have meant a change in the second letter : Bugeye: HAN5 Sprite MK II, Midget Mk I: HAN 6, GAN 1 Sprite Mk III, Midget Mk 2: HAN 7, GAN 2 ......and so on up to: Sprite Mk IV, Midget Mk 3: HAN 10, GAN 5 (HAN 10 changed to AAN 10 when "Healey" was dropped.) (The Spitfire-engined Midget 1500 was GAN 6) The MGA at first used their old Nuffield system, in which H stood for MG MGA, the second letter D for open 2 seater or M for coupe, the third for colour. Then it changed to the standard BMC system, where the MGA was a GHN roadster or GHD coupe. The MGA Twin Cam used its own unique system based on the old Nuffield one. It was always a Y. The MGB used the standard BMC system, where they were all GHN roadsters or GHD coupes, with series 3 being the MK I, 4 being MK II, and up to 1979 being 5. Except for the MGC. The H should have been replaced by B for the six cylinder's displacement, but they used C instead, 'cause it was cool. For the V8, they returned to the BMC system, using a D for displacement. But the body was now 2D for two door coupe (despite there being three doors). And the last year of the MGB went to the new Leyland VIN number system. Best Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Oct 28 19:20:35 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 18:20:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1319851235.42442.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Backwards spears are probably a "Danger Will Robinson!" moment when you're looking to buy a Healey. If they can't get something this simple straight, God knows how they handled the complicated bits. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 10/28/11, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary To: atightprod at aol.com, eyera3000 at gmail.com, vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, October 28, 2011, 7:27 PM I'll never understand the backward side spears thing. Is it just ignorance or do the owners actually think they are better stylists than Gerry Coker? Idiots! Bill Lawrence PS: I hope this doesn't hurt any feelings, but if the shoe fits... From peter.svilans at rogers.com Fri Oct 28 20:04:40 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 22:04:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bn Message-ID: You're absolutely right, Rick. No "H". Just wrote it off the top of my head without checking the Bugeye shop manual first. My '66 Midget GAN 3 with wires was one of my favourite cars, despite its appetite for halfshafts. Peter From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 28 23:33:47 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 22:33:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary - why they do it In-Reply-To: <1319851235.42442.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo .com> References: <1319851235.42442.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111028222817.020a9248@pop.att.yahoo.com> I was at the Autumn Classic car show and noticed a BJ8 with spears pointing in the wrong direction. The owner told me it helped cover a hole on the wing! John At 06:20 PM 10/28/2011 -0700, HealeyRick wrote: >Backwards spears .... If they can't get something this simple straight, ... > >Rick From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Oct 29 01:34:15 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 09:34:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Early Longbridge BN4 tool bag In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim Check this page on my website and you will see an original tool roll with the tools laid out. http://www.healeysix.net/original2.htm Derek On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 10:11 PM, Jim Lesher wrote: > Does anyone have a early Longbridge BN4 tool bag or a photo of this rare > creature. Thanks for any assistance that you can provide > jim lesher > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Oct 29 01:47:29 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 09:47:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Jule Frame In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I respectfully have to disagree with this comment I have owned cars with and without a Jule frame and whilst the Jule frame is more rigid I did not find that it distracted in any way from the 'classic' car' driving experience, there really is not much difference at all in that respect, except you don't get scuttle shake, it's the engine, gearbox, suspension, steering, brakes etc that really make the classic experience. Fitting a Toyota gearbox will make it a far more 'modern driving experience. If you have a bog standard Healey, and by that I mean one that is of no particular historical interest like most of our cars aren't then I would also say that a Jule frame doesn't affect value, just as having a non original engine doesn't either. I sold my Jule frame car in France and got a higher price than expected in part because of the Jule frame. regards Derek On Sat, Oct 29, 2011 at 12:34 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Rick - > > It depends on what your friend wants for his car. If he wants that > modern car handling experience, then the Jule Frame is an appropriate > choice. Martin will be a first rate gentleman to his client and > strive to get the job done well and professionally. > > If he's looking to have a classic car experience when driving and > showing, then Kilmartin. The good thing here is since you did a > Kilmartin on your car, you can advise and help your friend with this. > > Note, in my opinion the original frame still provides for excellent > handling... frankly almost as good as a modern car. > > If your friend seeks to maintain the value of all the work and money > he will put in his car, then Kilmartin is the only way to go. This is > said with nothing but respect for Martin, but his frame doesn't really > ad to the underlying value of the car, that's the main drawback with > his product. > > Alan > > > > On 10/29/11, Rick Swain wrote: > > I have a friend who has decided to put a new frame under his Healey. We > know > > what's involved - I did it myself using a Kilmartin frame. He's > considering > > a > > Jule since he could drive to Ontario and pick up the frame. We know the > Jule > > doesn't look like the original - that's not a problem for him. I've heard > > great things about the performance of Martin's frames but it seems that > > everybody who has raved about them has shipped, dropped off or had Martin > > pick > > up their car and had him do the work. My friend will be doing the work > > himself > > (with the help of a great fabricator) and that's who I'd like to have > share > > their experience - people who have bought a Jule frame and installed it > > themselves. > > We'd appreciate any insights you can provide. You can reply to me off > list. > > Thanks > > Rick Swain'59 BN4 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From rjswain at hotmail.com Sat Oct 29 05:44:46 2011 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 11:44:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Jule Frame In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Thanks for your replies about the Jule frame. Once again people have had good things to say about the performance of the frame. Again, the replies have been from people who have had Martin do the work of welding the bulkheads, inner fenders, etc. from their cars to the new frame. What I'm looking for is feedback from people who have done that work themselves. How difficult was it to cut off these components from the old frames and fit them to the new? Surely, of the over 500 frames that Martin has sold, some people have tackled that work themselves. That's who we'd like to hear from. When we put a new Kilmartin frame under my car, the transfer of the old components was straightforward. Where Martin's frame differs somewhat from the originals, we're wondering if this presents any problems in moving stuff from the old to the new. Thanks Rick From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Oct 29 07:33:59 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 15:33:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Jule Frame In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <4EAC00C7.6020306@chello.nl> Why not ask the man himself what is involved/needed. He should know best. He also seems to be a genuine fellow who will assist if needed/asked. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 29-10-2011 13:44, Rick Swain schreef: > Thanks for your replies about the Jule frame. Once again people have had good > things to say about the performance of the frame. Again, the replies have been > from people who have had Martin do the work of welding the bulkheads, inner > fenders, etc. from their cars to the new frame. What I'm looking for is > feedback from people who have done that work themselves. How difficult was it > to cut off these components from the old frames and fit them to the new? > Surely, of the over 500 frames that Martin has sold, some people have tackled > that work themselves. That's who we'd like to hear from. > When we put a new Kilmartin frame under my car, the transfer of the old > components was straightforward. Where Martin's frame differs somewhat from the > originals, we're wondering if this presents any problems in moving stuff from > the old to the new. > Thanks > Rick > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1834 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4581 - datum van uitgifte: 10/28/11 From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Oct 29 08:53:59 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 14:53:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Radiator hose Message-ID: <104673405.1822014.1319900039985.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, The bottom radiator outlet on my BN4 measures 1 1/2". The inlet on the engine is 1 1/4". Of course the correct hose will not fit. Is anyone aware of an adapter that might work? Any other suggestions on how to solve this problem other than pulling the radiator and taking it to a shop? Thanks, Ed Woods From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Oct 29 09:58:56 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 17:58:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Radiator hose In-Reply-To: <104673405.1822014.1319900039985.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <104673405.1822014.1319900039985.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4EAC22C0.4070207@chello.nl> Just slip a small length of radiator hose 1 1/4" over the inlet on the engine and fit the 1 1/2" hose over that. Simple cheap and effective. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 29-10-2011 16:53, fogbro1 at comcast.net schreef: > List, > > > > The bottom radiator outlet on my BN4 measures 1 1/2". The inlet on the engine is 1 1/4". Of course the correct hose will not fit. Is anyone aware of an adapter that might work? Any other suggestions on how to solve this problem other than pulling the radiator and taking it to a shop? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1834 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4581 - datum van uitgifte: 10/28/11 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Oct 29 10:02:27 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 09:02:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Radiator hose In-Reply-To: <104673405.1822014.1319900039985.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1319904147.25525.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Ed http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-7810/?rtype=10 Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 10/29/11, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: From: fogbro1 at comcast.net Subject: [Healeys] Radiator hose To: "Healey List" Date: Saturday, October 29, 2011, 10:53 AM List, The bottom radiator outlet on my BN4 measures 1 1/2". The inlet on the engine is 1 1/4". Of course the correct hose will not fit. Is anyone aware of an adapter that might work? Any other suggestions on how to solve this problem other than pulling the radiator and taking it to a shop? Thanks, Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From britcrs at gmail.com Sat Oct 29 12:58:47 2011 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 11:58:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary In-Reply-To: References: <216aa.6b7fb0e5.3bdafec6@aol.com> Message-ID: I drive a low miles BT7 that is absolutely original except for a mediocre repaint done many years before I got it ay which time the spears were reinstalled backwards. At this time, it is part of the character of this particular car and I have no intention of changing them. It's also a good conversation starter. Marv J P.S. No way could you hurt my feelings. Name Calling is more a reflection on the Name Caller than on Name Callee, but if the shoe fits... On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 4:27 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I'll never understand the backward side spears thing. Is it just ignorance > or > do the owners actually think they are better stylists than Gerry Coker? > > Idiots! > > Bill Lawrence > > PS: I hope this doesn't hurt any feelings, but if the shoe fits... > > > From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 14:36:54 -0400 > > To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > Then you didn't search far enough, the Austin-Healey is driven by Aaron > > Eckhardt's character and Johnny Depp is a passenger in it. Interesting > car, > > the spears are on the wrong sides, it sports red line tires, which I > must > > admit I did put on my last 3000 and they looked great and only rubbed > once > in > > a while and as far as I know, isn't featured in any of the trailers. The > > photos of Depp in the car have been out for over a year now. Here's the > link > > to the cars in the movie: > > > _ > http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-wi > > th-some-very-cool-rides/3885_ > > > ( > http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-wit > h-some-very-cool-rides/3885) > > > > Steven Kingsbury > > BN1 #598 > > > > > > In a message dated 10/27/2011 11:19:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > > eyera3000 at gmail.com writes: > > > > I just did a google search for rum diary movie trailer and it clearly > shows > > a red over white corvette. A cool Fiat 500, and a bunch of old cars, but > > no > > Healeys.... > > > > On Thu, Oct 27, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jean Caron < > > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > > > > > According to Autoblog, Johnny Depp was given a 1959 Corvette that he > > drove > > > in > > > that movie. The car is red with white inset. > > > > > > Jean Caron > > > > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 07:28:15 -0700 > > > > From: healeyron at yahoo.com > > > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > > > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > > > > > > > > I viewed a trailer for The Rum Diary starring Johnny Depp. It shows > him > > > > riding as a passenger in an Austin Healey Colorado Red BN7 or BN6. > > Wonder > > > > who's car was used for the Movie. Anyone have any info? > > > > > > > > Ron Mitchell > > > > 1959 > > > > BN6 > > > > 1962 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > > > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > > > > > > tmail.com< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_rest > oration at ho%0Atmail.com> > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage >: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Ira Erbs > > Portland, OR > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Sat Oct 29 13:13:09 2011 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 12:13:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Jule Frame In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1319915589.70353.YahooMailClassic@web121803.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hi Rick, Your question about the difficulty re Jule vs Kilmartin. the process for both is similar. the advantage to the Jule chassis provides an advantage in that the structural members are stronger. You do not have to per-load the chassis with engine and passenger weights.Our chassis maintains the structural integrity during the build process therefore allowing us to put more heat into the welds for better penetration unlike other products. As you know, welds with proper penetration will pull and quench. Our chassis will withstand these stresses better. The original chassis welds were often cold welds and fewer welds. I mention this because as you install the chassis you will be welding new parts onto this chassis. There is a lot of welding involved. I have seen many cars come into my shop where the parts can be just pulled off because the welds had neither heat or penetration. Although our chassis does not look like the Kilmartin chassis it is dimensionally correct meaning the fitting of panels will be no different. A difference may occur depending on how much heat you introduce through welding on the weaker chassis. It has been our experience that our customers who have sold their cars with a Jule frame have received 15-20% higher than one restored on original chassis- better handling and lack of scuttle shake- quality and durability have always been the mark of true value. As well as providing less stress to exterior body panels and running components. The chassis is the key most factor in an automobile.that is where the money is. We have customers entering their 25th and 26th year on our product with no structural failures to date. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From pvoris at q.com Sat Oct 29 17:14:33 2011 From: pvoris at q.com (pvoris at q.com) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 19:14:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] County parts In-Reply-To: <446813779.186677.1319929529150.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: <1963015084.186865.1319930073185.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> Finally I've had a first-hand experience of what I've seen in the past on the list about "County" parts . Had to replace a front wheel cylinder on the BN2 (a fun experience in itself). Ordered replacement from my trusty Moss guy friend. Set about changing it out today. Should be easy, right? Not. Got all the way to bleeding the fool thing and discovered a leak around the cross-over tube where it goes into the replacement cylinder. The machining on the cylinder was just a hair too deep for the cross-over tube to seat. Luckily my neighborhood hardware store had some copper washers in stock that, with some judicious machining at home, would fit into the recess nicely and compress to form a seal. Ummm....is that the way parts are supposed to come out of the box? Any comments? Peter Voris '56 BN2 '51 Riley RMB From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Oct 29 18:42:35 2011 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 17:42:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bolts Message-ID: Update on my problem with removing the hub attach bolts: After a gallon or so of Liquid Wrench and various socket/handle arrangements, I broke down and spent $20 for the Sears "Bolt Off". Of the two bolts that were stuck, one came off reasonably easily, but the other refused. I finally whaled on the Bolt Off with the hammer, and with a little effort and some magic words, it came off. Was pretty tight; on removing the nut from the Bolt Off, I discovered the outer half of the bolt sheared off from the inner half! Anyway, it is off, and now I have to find the source of the brake fluid leak. Doesn't seem to be the cylinder, but in the line connection. Thanks to whoever suggested that tool. It worked. Mike BN2 From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sat Oct 29 19:40:10 2011 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 02:40:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] County parts In-Reply-To: <1963015084.186865.1319930073185.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> References: <1963015084.186865.1319930073185.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: Unfortunately all County parts are crap! Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 30 okt 2011 kl. 01:14 skrev pvoris at q.com: > Finally I've had a first-hand experience of what I've seen in the past on the list about "County" parts . Had to replace a front wheel cylinder on the BN2 (a fun experience in itself). Ordered replacement from my trusty Moss guy friend. Set about changing it out today. Should be easy, right? Not. Got all the way to bleeding the fool thing and discovered a leak around the cross-over tube where it goes into the replacement cylinder. The machining on the cylinder was just a hair too deep for the cross-over tube to seat. Luckily my neighborhood hardware store had some copper washers in stock that, with some judicious machining at home, would fit into the recess nicely and compress to form a seal. Ummm....is that the way parts are supposed to come out of the box? > Any comments? > > Peter Voris > '56 BN2 > '51 Riley RMB > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net From shepard7107 at msn.com Sun Oct 30 06:57:02 2011 From: shepard7107 at msn.com (Michael Shepard) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 09:57:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] County parts In-Reply-To: <1963015084.186865.1319930073185.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> References: <1963015084.186865.1319930073185.JavaMail.root@md22.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: I am replacing the water pump in my BJ8 today. I had tried to find a replacement which looked like the original but no luck. The original pump has a conical shaped extension from the v-belt pulley to the fan mounting flange whereas the new pumps all have a cylindrical shape that is radiused at the fan flange. To make matters worse the new pump is made by County! Anybody got a tapered style BJ8 water pump they want to sell? Michael 36596 ----- Original Message ----- From: Magnus Karlsson To: Healey Lista Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2011 9:40 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] County parts Unfortunately all County parts are crap! Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com Sun Oct 30 07:00:14 2011 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 15:00:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100S brakes maintenance notes Message-ID: <000c01cc970c$42f47320$c8dd5960$@gmail.com> Has anyone seen this literature? Interesting to see the very early drawing of the Dunlop calipers. Tadek From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com Sun Oct 30 07:45:05 2011 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 15:45:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100S brakes maintenance notes In-Reply-To: References: <000c01cc970c$42f47320$c8dd5960$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <001101cc9712$8681a2b0$9384e810$@gmail.com> Oops, sorry: http://tinyurl.com/43p7svt -----Original Message----- From: Jose Vicente Vargas [mailto:jvvmusme at yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 3:21 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S brakes maintenance notes No link.... No attachment.... Jose Sent from my iPad On Oct 30, 2011, at 9:00 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: Has anyone seen this literature? Interesting to see the very early drawing of the Dunlop calipers. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Oct 30 09:28:31 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 09:28:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] County parts Message-ID: During my restoring, I replaced my water pump. It did not leak, but its been in there for 36 years. I now have a new County pump. I'm feeling less secure with my new pump.... hopefully all will be OK. I might send the old one out to be rebuilt. Just in case.... From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sun Oct 30 13:12:07 2011 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 15:12:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Healey Message-ID: http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-with -some-very-cool-rides/3885 Not sure if you guys saw this...Always good to have a Healey star. Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sun Oct 30 13:52:33 2011 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 15:52:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] RECALL: The Rum Diary Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Found previous discussion...Der... Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY ---------------------------------------- > From: ahpowered at hotmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 15:12:07 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Healey > > http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-with > -some-very-cool-rides/3885 > > Not sure if you guys saw this...Always good to have a Healey star. > > Cheers, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahpowered at hotmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 30 17:04:42 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 17:04:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027223744.020860f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> I did not find out much using the archives. I have a standard gear type oil pump which seemed to work fine when I took it out. I have not taken it apart yet. Should I? Are these straight forward to rebuild? Are the replacement pumps made by "Country"? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 30 17:07:58 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 17:07:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cam shaft Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111030170447.020594f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> With the cost of a new camshaft I think I am about to be shafted! My camshaft was reground to BJ8 specs a few years back. It appears it needs replacement. I have been told you cannot grind them multiple times. What do people recommend; AH Spares, Denis Welch, some other? I have a pretty standard engine with only the BJ8 upgrade. Thank you, John '62 BT7 From cleona44 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 30 17:38:59 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 20:38:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100S brakes maintenance notes In-Reply-To: <001101cc9712$8681a2b0$9384e810$@gmail.com> References: <000c01cc970c$42f47320$c8dd5960$@gmail.com>, , <001101cc9712$8681a2b0$9384e810$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Yes, this is a very rare literature piece. It is shown in Bill Emerson's book on p 119. But there is even a rarer piece of the same booklet in black, which was included with each S, from the factory. jim lesher From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com > To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 15:45:05 +0100 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S brakes maintenance notes > > Oops, sorry: > > http://tinyurl.com/43p7svt > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jose Vicente Vargas [mailto:jvvmusme at yahoo.com] > Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 3:21 PM > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S brakes maintenance notes > > No link.... > No attachment.... > > Jose > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Oct 30, 2011, at 9:00 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz > wrote: > > Has anyone seen this literature? > > > > Interesting to see the very early drawing of the Dunlop calipers. > > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 30 18:20:42 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:20:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] F1 Riccardo Patrese & Wife Message-ID: If you haven't seen this, I thought you would enjoy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpo8RDyOEWY From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 30 18:23:45 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:23:45 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027223744.020860f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027223744.020860f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John - Several bad reviews on this list about County pumps. If your pump is still within spec, I'd leave it, and put it back in. Main issue is scoring on the housing, and if there's no scoring, there won't be a need to replace it. You can pull it apart to inspect, it's a very simple set up. two gears and two housing halves. Check for scoring, and also check to make sure the gear peg holes aren't out of round. If driving on the street, you can replace with the earlier rotary vane pump, which is marginally better for street use - I don't think County makes the rotary vane type. Alan On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 8:04 AM, john spaur wrote: > I did not find out much using the archives. > > I have a standard gear type oil pump which seemed to work fine when I took > it out. I have not taken it apart yet. Should I? Are these straight forward > to rebuild? Are the replacement pumps made by "Country"? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Oct 30 18:26:17 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 21:26:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027223744.020860f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027223744.020860f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00d601cc976c$1656c830$43045890$@net> John, The twin gear pump from your BT7 will have two places that can wear. The most prone is the bottom end plate which is aluminum and it's had a pair of steel gears spinning on its surface for all its life. This action tends to cause a milling action that can wear twin circular grooves in the softer aluminum end plate. Back in the day, it was common for BMC to recondition these pumps by simply milling that end surface smooth and flat again. So much for that end wear. In addition the twin steel gears can wear slightly against each other and are readily available and can simply be dropped into the original pump body. Job done, wear eliminated. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: 2011-10-30 8:05 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump I did not find out much using the archives. I have a standard gear type oil pump which seemed to work fine when I took it out. I have not taken it apart yet. Should I? Are these straight forward to rebuild? Are the replacement pumps made by "Country"? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 _______________________________________________ From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Oct 30 18:29:26 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:29:26 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Cam shaft In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111030170447.020594f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111030170447.020594f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John - Maybe send your cam to Elgin Cams and have them inspect it and let you know what they think before you drop 400 quid on a new cam? http://www.elgincams.com/catalog.html http://www.elgincams.com/c-aus.html Lots of good feedback over the years on the list about Elgin Cams. Best, Alan On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 8:07 AM, john spaur wrote: > With the cost of a new camshaft I think I am about to be shafted! > > My camshaft was reground to BJ8 specs a few years back. It appears it > needs replacement. I have been told you cannot grind them multiple times. > What do people recommend; AH Spares, Denis Welch, some other? > > I have a pretty standard engine with only the BJ8 upgrade. > > Thank you, > John > '62 BT7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From cleona44 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 30 21:53:16 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 00:53:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early Longbridge BN4 tool bag In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Derek - thanks. I have used that page a lot over the years, but remember that Longbridge featured BN4 was built at Abingdon in March 1958. Supposedly, that plastic tool bag is not the correct bag to be used with the early Longbridge cars. per the parts list for the 100-Six, AKD 1423, pub 3/60 the tool bag part # is ZA 5412 - I assume the Z should actually be a 2 while the the parts list for the 100-Six,(BN6), AKD 855 Preliminary list of Service Parts, no date provided, does not even include the tool bag while the the parts list for the 100-Six,(BN6), AKD 855 (2nd ed),pub 8/59, the tool bag part # is 2A 5412 while the the parts list for the 100-Six,(BN6), AKD 855 (3rd ed),pub 7/62, the tool bag part # is 2A 5412, but if that is not available use # 11H 169 while the earliest parts list for the BN4, that I am aware to be in existence the parts list for the 100-Six, publication #1050A,pub 2/57, the tool bag part # is 2A 5413, but also listed to include Tape # 2A 5414, and 2 of these which would make me think that the earliest Longbridge tool bag is not the plastic bag with the heat sealed attached plastic ties, but rather cotton ties as used in the early mga tool bags. I am simply looking for the correct answer. jim Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 09:34:15 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early Longbridge BN4 tool bag From: derek.c.job at gmail.com To: cleona44 at hotmail.com CC: healeys at autox.team.net Jim Check this page on my website and you will see an original tool roll with the tools laid out. http://www.healeysix.net/original2.htm Derek On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 10:11 PM, Jim Lesher wrote: Does anyone have a early Longbridge BN4 tool bag or a photo of this rare creature. Thanks for any assistance that you can provide jim lesher _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Oct 31 01:00:37 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 08:00:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump In-Reply-To: <00d601cc976c$1656c830$43045890$@net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027223744.020860f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <00d601cc976c$1656c830$43045890$@net> Message-ID: John Adding to what Rich has said, the 100 pump is very similar. However even though the bottom can be machined to take the grooves out of the bottom aluminium plate it is also likely that the end float of the gears will be greater than the recommended 0.003". Although there does not appear to be grooves in the top of the housing there is still wear in some cases where the gears run. Gravity should eliminate this but this does not appear to be the case. Therefore it might be that you have to also machine the housing. I assume that the grooves are due to debris getting into the pump. Although I would not necessarily recommend this I have successfully 'machined' both faces using abrasive paste on a sheet of thick plate glass. Best regards > >The twin gear pump from your BT7 will have two places that can wear. The >most prone is the bottom end plate which is aluminum and it's had a pair of >steel gears spinning on its surface for all its life. This action tends to >cause a milling action that can wear twin circular grooves in the softer >aluminum end plate. Back in the day, it was common for BMC to recondition >these pumps by simply milling that end surface smooth and flat again. So >much for that end wear. >In addition the twin steel gears can wear slightly against each other and >are readily available and can simply be dropped into the original pump body. > >Job done, wear eliminated. > >Rich > >-----Original Message----- >From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >On Behalf Of john spaur >Sent: 2011-10-30 8:05 >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump > >I did not find out much using the archives. > >I have a standard gear type oil pump which seemed to work fine when I >took it out. I have not taken it apart yet. Should I? Are these >straight forward to rebuild? Are the replacement pumps made by "Country"? > >Thank you, >John Spaur >'62 BT7 >_______________________________________________ >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk -- John Harper From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Oct 31 02:08:52 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 10:08:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027223744.020860f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111027223744.020860f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4EAE65A4.3030705@chello.nl> If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 31-10-2011 1:04, john spaur schreef: > I did not find out much using the archives. > > I have a standard gear type oil pump which seemed to work fine when I > took it out. I have not taken it apart yet. Should I? Are these > straight forward to rebuild? Are the replacement pumps made by "Country"? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1834 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4585 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/30/11 From twillig at ruda.de Mon Oct 31 04:11:49 2011 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 12:11:49 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B9@dw01.ruda.local> References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B6@dw01.ruda.local> <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E15B9@dw01.ruda.local> Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E16C7@dw01.ruda.local> Thanks to everyone who contributed to solve this problem. The problem were balls in the control- and check valves. After replacing both of them, all was well. Thanks again Thomas Willig Von: Thomas Willig Gesendet: Montag, 12. September 2011 14:38 An: 'Austin Healey' Cc: Healey List Betreff: AW: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot ..after about 30 seconds after the car stops, the pressure reaches 20 psi Thomas Willig Von: Austin Healey [mailto:pajtamuvek at gmail.com] Gesendet: Montag, 12. September 2011 09:43 An: Thomas Willig Cc: Healey List Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive slow to engage when hot How fast do You loose the pressure after switching off the engine hot/cold? G 2011/9/12 Austin Healey Maybe worn ball or seating/weakend spring at the valve. G 2011/9/12 Thomas Willig Gentlemen, I am facing the problem that the Overdrive on my BN2 is quite slow to engage when the gearbox is hot. Here are the symptoms /parameters: 1. I am using Penrite 30 gearbox oil -a non detergent oil 2. I installed a OD pressure gauge that can be read when driving the car. 3. Gearbox / Engine cold, pressure is 490 Psi -Looks perfect to me 4. OD engages faultlessly 5. Gearbox / Engine warm (Engine Oil 200 F) OD pressure 360 Psi -Too low. 6. The overdrive needs about 4-5 seconds to engage in other words the OD pressure takes that long to reach the 360 Psi again. ? Am I facing a worn oil pump? Any advice what I can/should do. Best regards Thomas Willig BN2L-230649 01. Feb. 1956 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage : http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From Paull at glasgows.co.uk Mon Oct 31 05:43:40 2011 From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 12:43:40 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06FAD8CD@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Hi Marv My BN4 was also restored by a PO (back in 1989) and had the spears replaced on the wrong wings. Unfortunately, they dented the paint work and so could not cannot be reversed without revealing an ugly indentation on each wing. One day, if/when I can afford a new paint job, I will probably change them back, but until then ... Hey, perhaps we should start a 'dodgy spears' register ... I'm sure those lots more out there in denial :) Cheers Paul BN4 Lancashire Message: 1 Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 11:58:47 -0700 From: Marvin James To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I drive a low miles BT7 that is absolutely original except for a mediocre repaint done many years before I got it ay which time the spears were reinstalled backwards. At this time, it is part of the character of this particular car and I have no intention of changing them. It's also a good conversation starter. Marv J P.S. No way could you hurt my feelings. Name Calling is more a reflection on the Name Caller than on Name Callee, but if the shoe fits... From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Oct 31 07:50:00 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 07:50:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Interesting that E3 spark plugs lists the ARMSTRONG-SIDDELEY, but not the Austin Healey or any Austin, or ant Healey. Some interesting cars on their list... On Sun, Oct 30, 2011 at 1:12 PM, scott willis wrote: > > http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-with > -some-very-cool-rides/3885 > > Not sure if you guys saw this...Always good to have a Healey star. > > Cheers, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 31 08:19:36 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 11:19:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06FAD8CD@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: <003701cc97e0$808e4e20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> There's even one pictured in Clausagers Original Healey book. Go figure. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Leeks" To: Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 8:43 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Rum Diary > Hi Marv > > My BN4 was also restored by a PO (back in 1989) and had the spears > replaced > on the wrong wings. Unfortunately, they dented the paint work and so > could > not cannot be reversed without revealing an ugly indentation on each wing. > > One day, if/when I can afford a new paint job, I will probably change them > back, but until then ... > > Hey, perhaps we should start a 'dodgy spears' register ... I'm sure those > lots more out there in denial :) > > Cheers > Paul >://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Oct 31 08:35:35 2011 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 08:35:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump Message-ID: And then again - If it ain't broke fix it till it is. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Oudesluys To: john spaur Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 2:08 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sump oil pump If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 31-10-2011 1:04, john spaur schreef: > I did not find out much using the archives. > > I have a standard gear type oil pump which seemed to work fine when I > took it out. I have not taken it apart yet. Should I? Are these > straight forward to rebuild? Are the replacement pumps made by "Country"? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1834 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4585 - datum van uitgifte: > 10/30/11 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/medlabinc at msn.com From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Oct 31 15:32:59 2011 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 18:32:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Paul Schwartz Message-ID: <20111031.153358.1710.26601@mailpop22.dca.untd.com> Does anyone know how to contact Paul Schwartz (no sure if this is the correct spelling)? TIA. Doug ____________________________________________________________ 60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27 Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4eaf22618907b130b395st06duc From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Oct 31 16:41:22 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:41:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] The Rum Diary Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All the great cars but a modern turbopropped boat plane in the preview sort of killed it for me. There are so many Grumman Gooses and PBYs around Florida, you think they could have properly sorted that detail without too much effort... On 10/31/11, I Erbs wrote: > Interesting that E3 spark plugs lists the ARMSTRONG-SIDDELEY, but not the > Austin Healey or any Austin, or ant Healey. Some interesting cars on their > list... > > On Sun, Oct 30, 2011 at 1:12 PM, scott willis wrote: > >> >> http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/news/the-rum-diary-rolls-onto-the-big-screen-with >> -some-very-cool-rides/3885 >> >> Not sure if you guys saw this...Always good to have a Healey star. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Scott Willis >> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >> 59 MGA >> 66 E-Type FHC >> >> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ >> BG Euro Classics Car Club President >> Bowling Green, KY >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Mon Oct 31 17:20:42 2011 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 00:20:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Cam shaft In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111030170447.020594f0@pop.att.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: I god cam grinder can take your BJ8 cam and copy it, thereby making a new "master". They can then regrind your same BJ8 cam, using the new master, and only taking off a few thousandths of an inch to clean up your cam. A new master should not cost more than about $75 and the regrind something like $90. Call around. There are cam grinders all over the country. Try Oregon Cam - they are in Vancouver, Washington. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:29:26 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam shaft > > John - > > Maybe send your cam to Elgin Cams and have them inspect it and let you know > what they think before you drop 400 quid on a new cam? > > http://www.elgincams.com/catalog.html > http://www.elgincams.com/c-aus.html > > Lots of good feedback over the years on the list about Elgin Cams. > > Best, > > Alan > > On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 8:07 AM, john spaur wrote: > > > With the cost of a new camshaft I think I am about to be shafted! > > > > My camshaft was reground to BJ8 specs a few years back. It appears it > > needs replacement. I have been told you cannot grind them multiple times. > > What do people recommend; AH Spares, Denis Welch, some other? > > > > I have a pretty standard engine with only the BJ8 upgrade. > > > > Thank you, > > John > > '62 BT7 > > ______________________________**_________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Mon Oct 31 18:21:04 2011 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 21:21:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cam shaft In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111030170447.020594f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111030170447.020594f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I suspect John that the BJ8 grind that you had done has brought the back of the lobes down to the shaft and there is no more lobe that can be removed to produce the BJ8 lift. You can have each of the 12 lobes built up with weld than ground back to spec, find and other pre BJ8 cam and have it ground to BJ8 specs, some Wolseley and Austin Westminster cams can also be used (be careful to get the correct cam and oil pump gears), or buy a new BJ8 cam from one of the usual suspects. In my experiance building up lobes costs about $50 per lobe so if they are all worn it can get a bit expensive.. Once you have your new cam be VERY careful to use the correct oil.. This is worth reviewing.http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=49 Michael Salter On Sun, Oct 30, 2011 at 8:07 PM, john spaur wrote: > With the cost of a new camshaft I think I am about to be shafted! > > My camshaft was reground to BJ8 specs a few years back. It appears it > needs replacement. I have been told you cannot grind them multiple times. > What do people recommend; AH Spares, Denis Welch, some other? > > I have a pretty standard engine with only the BJ8 upgrade. > > Thank you, > John > '62 BT7 From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Oct 31 18:57:15 2011 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 21:57:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sump oil pump Message-ID: Kees Oudesluijs said "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."...and I think it's worth reminding ourselves of this sometimes. A while back, I was removing my cam and had asked a question of the list about removing the pulleys without stressing the timing chain. I got jumped on by several listers who said something like " of course you will change the timing chain while you're in there - timing chains are inexpensive!" Well, I did change the timing chain, and everything is back tiogether, but the one I took out had about 15,000 miles on it, and it was an original BMC supplied chain I had bought years ago...the replacement turns out to be a "county" model. I kind of wish I'd stuck to the original plan. Stephen, BJ8 From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Mon Oct 31 21:01:09 2011 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 21:01:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nikas wins at the US Mille Miglia in Grace, his "Drive Away Cancer" 53 - AH 100 BN1 Message-ID: <1320120069.46290.YahooMailNeo@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> John Nikas won the Mille Miglia North America held in Southern California from 25-28th october. During these 4 days he won all 7 stages outright and I heard there were some fierce battles with a couple ferraris worth 6 and 10MUSD, having 3x the number of cylinders and in particular with a 53 Corvette. John also won the participant's award and is invited to the "Mille" in Italy all expenses paid. I went to the sunday Concours D'elegance in Santa Barbara on sunday and met with Steven Kingsbury who is tirelessly following John and capturing everything on video. I saw "Grace" a month ago in Agoura Hills after it's 7000+ mile run when Richie Sambora of Bon Jovi fame signed the car. When John drove up the field at the Concours yesterday Grace seem to be transformed with an engine rebuild, new exhaust, 100m carbs, cold air box... I don't know where exactly all credits are due so I hope Steven can help me out here but I believe BCS and Moss contributed greatly to this cause as well as a number of Healey owners. The car now sports 3000 signatures from people John encountered on the road. This car became a symbol for people battling cancer and a running memorial for people who lost loved ones to cancer. Check out the video of the start of the Mille at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWwbFqZfOu4 or some great pics at http://www.facebook.com/driveawaycancernow you can donate and support this cause at http://driveawaycancernow.org/ I am closing with a prayer for all currently battling cancer including my father in law and in memory of my own father who passed away after a battle with cancer 6 years ago. Bert