From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Tue Nov  1 00:45:44 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 17:45:44 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky sideshift gearbox
Message-ID: <FC210AC9BB7848BBA698D17392E39F8F@Notebook>

Gbday list

One of our new Queensland members has just taken delivery of his bnewb
BT7. It was restored some years ago by a specialist and has done relatively
few miles since. One thing thatbs a puzzle is that the gearbox is very
bnotchyb for want of a better word. Ibve driven it and although Ibm
not that familiar with 4 speed side-shift boxes, I found it very hard to get
into gear. It seems almost to hit a bstopb ie there is a great deal of
resistance that takes a heftier (in my view) shove to overcome than it should.
The gearbox was apparently overhauled during the restoration, although we
donbt know the extent of that. We are told that the detent balls and springs
were replaced before the car was sent up to Queensland in an attempt to
resolve the problem b which it clearly hasnbt!

Any thoughts?

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Nov  1 01:47:07 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 19:47:07 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky sideshift gearbox
In-Reply-To: <FC210AC9BB7848BBA698D17392E39F8F@Notebook>
References: <FC210AC9BB7848BBA698D17392E39F8F@Notebook>
Message-ID: <E0D5CD09-AD3C-47EC-ABD7-1AE6F8C506CA@gmail.com>

Firstly Peter,
If every one else replaces an inappropriate b with a ' - then your
emaIl will make more sense!
Back to the issue. Jack up the front, and see how much clutch pedal
travel there is on a single press. Full stroke?
If not, bleed.
How much oil in the gearbox?
Which oil??
Check the clutch movement first. If insufficent, could be as easy as
bleeding, worn clevis pins, worn clevis pin holes... You can really
only tell by looking....
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 01/11/2011, at 6:45 PM, "Peter & Veronica"
<greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote:

> Gbday list
>
> One of our new Queensland members has just taken delivery of his
> bnewb
> BT7. It was restored some years ago by a specialist and has done
> relatively
> few miles since. One thing thatbs a puzzle is that the gearbox is
> very
> bnotchyb for want of a better word. Ibve driven it and although
> Ibm
> not that familiar with 4 speed side-shift boxes, I found it very
> hard to get
> into gear. It seems almost to hit a bstopb ie there is a great
> deal of
> resistance that takes a heftier (in my view) shove to overcome than
> it should.
> The gearbox was apparently overhauled during the restoration,
> although we
> donbt know the extent of that. We are told that the detent balls
> and springs
> were replaced before the car was sent up to Queensland in an attempt
> to
> resolve the problem b which it clearly hasnbt!
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Nov  1 01:47:32 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 16:47:32 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky sideshift gearbox
In-Reply-To: <FC210AC9BB7848BBA698D17392E39F8F@Notebook>
References: <FC210AC9BB7848BBA698D17392E39F8F@Notebook>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKLv0+QaZXRnEZGtvjjY3tZzc9n+fsdeHRVL+nNL1sPZg@mail.gmail.com>

Peter -

Reported on the list several times apparently there is a raft of
synchroniser cones out there which have a slightly incorrect cone angle,
causing the the synchronisers not to grab very well. So if the box was
rebuilt, they may have used these bad cones.

As far as I am aware, the only real solution is to take the box out and
replace the cones with proper cones from a Healey parts specialist who
knows where to source the correct cones.

Alan

On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 3:45 PM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>wrote:

> Gb day list
>
> One of our new Queensland members has just taken delivery of his b newb
> BT7. It was restored some years ago by a specialist and has done relatively
> few miles since. One thing thatb s a puzzle is that the gearbox is very
> b notchyb  for want of a better word. Ib ve driven it and although Ib m
> not that familiar with 4 speed side-shift boxes, I found it very hard to
> get
> into gear. It seems almost to hit a b stopb  ie there is a great deal of
> resistance that takes a heftier (in my view) shove to overcome than it
> should.
> The gearbox was apparently overhauled during the restoration, although we
> donb t know the extent of that. We are told that the detent balls and
> springs
> were replaced before the car was sent up to Queensland in an attempt to
> resolve the problem b  which it clearly hasnb t!
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Tue Nov  1 02:09:08 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 19:09:08 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky sideshift gearbox
In-Reply-To: <E0D5CD09-AD3C-47EC-ABD7-1AE6F8C506CA@gmail.com>
References: <FC210AC9BB7848BBA698D17392E39F8F@Notebook>
	<E0D5CD09-AD3C-47EC-ABD7-1AE6F8C506CA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5521A9334BAF43009F183996F2BE3ACF@Notebook>

Don't know why that happens Chris - I type quote marks " "

I did notice that there doesn't seem to be much travel on the clutch ie it 
engages very close to the floor. I'll get him to check that out

Cheers

peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: Chris Dimmock
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 6:47 PM
To: Peter & Veronica
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sticky sideshift gearbox

Firstly Peter,
If every one else replaces an inappropriate b with a ' - then your
emaIl will make more sense!
Back to the issue. Jack up the front, and see how much clutch pedal
travel there is on a single press. Full stroke?
If not, bleed.
How much oil in the gearbox?
Which oil??
Check the clutch movement first. If insufficent, could be as easy as
bleeding, worn clevis pins, worn clevis pin holes... You can really
only tell by looking....
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 01/11/2011, at 6:45 PM, "Peter & Veronica"
<greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote:

> Gbday list
>
> One of our new Queensland members has just taken delivery of his  b
newb

> BT7. It was restored some years ago by a specialist and has done 
> relatively
> few miles since. One thing thatbs a puzzle is that the gearbox is  very
> b
notchyb
 for want of a better word. Ibve driven it and although  Ibm
> not that familiar with 4 speed side-shift boxes, I found it very  hard to 
> get
> into gear. It seems almost to hit a b
stopb
 ie there is a great  deal of
> resistance that takes a heftier (in my view) shove to overcome than  it 
> should.
> The gearbox was apparently overhauled during the restoration,  although we
> donbt know the extent of that. We are told that the detent balls  and 
> springs
> were replaced before the car was sent up to Queensland in an attempt  to
> resolve the problem b which it clearly hasnbt!
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Nov  1 02:34:47 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 17:34:47 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky sideshift gearbox
In-Reply-To: <E0D5CD09-AD3C-47EC-ABD7-1AE6F8C506CA@gmail.com>
References: <FC210AC9BB7848BBA698D17392E39F8F@Notebook>
	<E0D5CD09-AD3C-47EC-ABD7-1AE6F8C506CA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK-oObXYUdzqstA+0szP0gDSK_a4HnWVQ-tXuAZpt5N-Q@mail.gmail.com>

Peter / Chris -

Oh right, good thought.  Also if someone put a BJ8 brake master in for the
BT7 clutch master (easy mistake to make, they can look identical on the
outside) you will have this same problem.

Alan

On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 4:47 PM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>wrote:

> Firstly Peter,
> If every one else replaces an inappropriate b with a ' - then your
> emaIl will make more sense!
> Back to the issue. Jack up the front, and see how much clutch pedal
> travel there is on a single press. Full stroke?
> If not, bleed.
> How much oil in the gearbox?
> Which oil??
> Check the clutch movement first. If insufficent, could be as easy as
> bleeding, worn clevis pins, worn clevis pin holes... You can really
> only tell by looking....
> Best
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 01/11/2011, at 6:45 PM, "Peter & Veronica"
> <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote:
>
>  Gb day list
>>
>> One of our new Queensland members has just taken delivery of his
>> b newbBT7. It was restored some years ago by a specialist and has done
>>
>> relatively
>> few miles since. One thing thatb s a puzzle is that the gearbox is
>> very
>> b notchyb  for want of a better word. Ib ve driven it and although
>> Ib m
>> not that familiar with 4 speed side-shift boxes, I found it very
>> hard to get
>> into gear. It seems almost to hit a b stopb  ie there is a great
>> deal of
>> resistance that takes a heftier (in my view) shove to overcome than
>> it should.
>> The gearbox was apparently overhauled during the restoration,
>> although we
>> donb t know the extent of that. We are told that the detent balls
>> and springs
>> were replaced before the car was sent up to Queensland in an attempt
>> to
>> resolve the problem b  which it clearly hasnb t!
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> Peter Linn
>> Brisbane Oz

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Tue Nov  1 03:46:10 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2011 11:46:10 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky sideshift gearbox
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK-oObXYUdzqstA+0szP0gDSK_a4HnWVQ-tXuAZpt5N-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC210AC9BB7848BBA698D17392E39F8F@Notebook>
	<E0D5CD09-AD3C-47EC-ABD7-1AE6F8C506CA@gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkK-oObXYUdzqstA+0szP0gDSK_a4HnWVQ-tXuAZpt5N-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EAFCDF2.1010206@bredband.net>

Hi
I'll step in with a thought too. If the clutch and flywheel have been 
changed to the BJ8 type, the release bearing also have to be changed to 
one that is a little thicker.

Per in Sweden

Alan Seigrist skrev 2011-11-01 10:34:
> Peter / Chris -
>
> Oh right, good thought.  Also if someone put a BJ8 brake master in for the
> BT7 clutch master (easy mistake to make, they can look identical on the
> outside) you will have this same problem.
>
> Alan

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Nov  1 08:44:49 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 15:44:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 centrifugal switch
Message-ID: <488391570.1967226.1320162289628.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List,



I would like to use the overdrive extension casting from a BN1 on another
overdrive application. This means that I'd either have to leave the BN1's
centrifugal switch in place, unused, or find a another way to plug the
opening.



Has anyone ever found a plug for this opening? Or, does anyone know the thread
size of the switch. It appears to have a 1.5mm pitch and around a 32mm
diameter.



OrB I just take it to my favorite welder?



Thanks,



Ed Woods

From martin_93555 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  1 09:39:39 2011
From: martin_93555 at yahoo.com (Martin's)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 09:39:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Valve Cover
Message-ID: <1320165579.36338.YahooMailNeo@web84003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I am looking for a stock valve cover and cap for my '66 BJ8.  The previous
owner replaced the original with an aftermarket one.  It needs a new cap and
we can't locate one that will fit so we are going to go back to stock.  Please
reply off-list.
Thanks, Kathy Martin

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov  1 11:31:06 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 11:31:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Valve Cover
In-Reply-To: <1320165579.36338.YahooMailNeo@web84003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1320165579.36338.YahooMailNeo@web84003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3C331DA4-275A-41FE-8101-3EA12EE44A6D@sbcglobal.net>

We can supply you with a used OE valve cover and cap.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 1, 2011, at 9:39 AM, Martin's wrote:

> I am looking for a stock valve cover and cap for my '66 BJ8.  The  
> previous
> owner replaced the original with an aftermarket one.  It needs a  
> new cap and
> we can't locate one that will fit so we are going to go back to  
> stock.  Please
> reply off-list.
> Thanks, Kathy Martin
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Tue Nov  1 12:01:30 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 15:01:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Nikas wins at the US Mille Miglia in Grace,
 his  "Drive Away  Ca...
Message-ID: <22305.10997feb.3be19c09@aol.com>

To add to Bert's post. I am working on some videos right now of John and  
"Grace" which will be posted on youtube.com soon. Unfortunately, we were 
unable  to get any video of John actually driving the hell out of her, but I got 
lots of  video of her arrival, grandstand drive through and the Santa 
Barbara Concours  d'Elegance show, in addition to some interviews with John, 
other drivers and  some very special folks who made this all possible. Stay 
tuned for  updates.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
 
In a message dated 10/31/2011 9:17:35 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
bertvanbrande at yahoo.com writes:

John  Nikas won the Mille Miglia North America held in Southern California  
from
25-28th october.  During these 4 days he won all 7 stages  outright and I 
heard
there were some fierce battles with a couple ferraris  worth 6 and 10MUSD,
having 3x the number of cylinders and in particular  with a 53 Corvette.  
John
also won the participant's award and is  invited to the "Mille" in Italy all
expenses paid.  

I went to  the sunday Concours D'elegance in Santa Barbara on
sunday and met with  Steven Kingsbury who is tirelessly following John and
capturing everything  on video.  I saw "Grace" a month ago in Agoura Hills
after it's 7000+  mile run when Richie Sambora of Bon Jovi fame signed the 
car.
When John  drove up the field at the Concours yesterday Grace seem to be
transformed  with an engine rebuild, new exhaust, 100m carbs, cold air 
box...
I don't  know where exactly all credits are due so I hope Steven can help me
out  here but I believe BCS and Moss contributed greatly to this cause as  
well
as a number of Healey owners.

The car now sports 3000  signatures from people
John encountered on the road.  This car became  a symbol for people battling
cancer and a running memorial for people who  lost loved ones to cancer.    
Check out the video of the start  of the Mille at 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWwbFqZfOu4

or some  great pics at 
http://www.facebook.com/driveawaycancernow

you can  donate and support this
cause at  

http://driveawaycancernow.org/

I am closing with a prayer for  all
currently battling cancer including my father in law and in memory of  my 
own
father who passed away after a battle with cancer 6 years  ago.

Bert
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/o
ptions/healeys/atightprod at aol.com

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Tue Nov  1 13:11:24 2011
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 20:11:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 centrifugal switch
In-Reply-To: <488391570.1967226.1320162289628.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <488391570.1967226.1320162289628.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <M+4lRLFsJFsOFwRS@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Dear Ed

I don't have time or parts available to quickly check this but I have in 
the back of my mind that the screwed plug that covers the lower end of 
the 100 distributor drive on the engine might fit. If you have a parts 
list; 8G 500 Engine - plate A2.

Mind you I could be wrong so don't rely on this

Regards

>
>I would like to use the overdrive extension casting from a BN1 on another
>overdrive application. This means that I'd either have to leave the BN1's
>centrifugal switch in place, unused, or find a another way to plug the
>opening.
>
>
>
>Has anyone ever found a plug for this opening? Or, does anyone know the thread
>size of the switch. It appears to have a 1.5mm pitch and around a 32mm
>diameter.
>
>Ed Woods
-- 
John Harper

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Tue Nov  1 18:19:04 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 01:19:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shaft
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ8iSU_QXgjeo=Hrdw9KT+LnONMnW2axUCH_RfKGzfZAg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111030170447.020594f0@pop.att.yahoo.com>,
	<CAB3i7LJ8iSU_QXgjeo=Hrdw9KT+LnONMnW2axUCH_RfKGzfZAg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY168-W9332EC0C895E569888BBAAC0D40@phx.gbl>

Mike,
If the back of the lobes are ground down to the same plane as the shaft,
instead of building the lobes, you can simply undercut the shaft around the
lobes by about .010" for less than $50 and you can use save that camshaft.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 21:21:04 -0400
> From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com
> To: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam shaft
>
> I suspect John that the BJ8 grind that you had done has brought the back of
> the lobes down to the shaft and there is no more lobe that can be removed
> to produce the BJ8 lift.
> You can have each of the 12 lobes built up with weld than ground back to
> spec, find and other pre BJ8 cam and have it ground to BJ8 specs, some
> Wolseley and Austin Westminster cams can also be used (be careful to get
> the correct cam and oil pump gears), or buy a new BJ8 cam from one of the
> usual suspects.
> In my experiance building up lobes costs about $50 per lobe so if they are
> all worn it can get a bit expensive..
> Once you have your new cam be VERY careful to use the correct oil..
> This is worth reviewing.http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=49
>
> Michael Salter
>
>
> > > '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Wed Nov  2 16:35:19 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 19:35:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer at the Santa Barbara Concours d'Elegance
Message-ID: <218e7.3bfc2f1.3be32db7@aol.com>

Here ya' go folks, John Nikas talking about driving "Grace" at the first  
Mille Miglia Tribute North America. A pretty amazing feat and a true 
testament  to all of those involved in keeping "Grace" on the road, hope you enjoy 
the  video:  _http://youtu.be/g815nnkLEW4_ (http://youtu.be/g815nnkLEW4)  
And here's a link to just a little fun at the same event:  
_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToeiAd6dPjA&feature=youtu.be_ 
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToeiAd6dPjA&feature=youtu.be) 

Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Nov  2 20:18:56 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2011 03:18:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?petronix?=
Message-ID: <20111103031856.14355.qmail@server278.com>

want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and sputtering" problem.  he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about these things.  what should i be looking for.  suspected a coil and had it replaced, but did not solve problem.   will naturally check carbs, etc., but suspect ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms up.  any help appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here.   

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Nov  2 21:15:51 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 23:15:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] So you want to ship your car..............
Message-ID: <4EB21577.1060303@justbrits.com>

CHEAPLY ? ! ? ! ? ! ?

********************************************************************
How Not to UN-load your sports car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlqsUQIoV3s&feature=related
*********************************************************************

Wanna RE-think that "idea" ? ! ?

Anon

From healey at hunterbane.com  Wed Nov  2 21:16:17 2011
From: healey at hunterbane.com (Healey)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 00:16:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <20111103031856.14355.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20111103031856.14355.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <DD9C4866-27E7-488F-943E-901F4FB2A220@hunterbane.com>

Pertronix will not resolve a bad distributer.  Not sure what distributer the
Morgan has, but most likely it has centrifugal advance, and the springs are
worn.  I had the same issue with a Porsche that worked ok on points, but the
Pertronix highlighted the real problem.  After rebuilding the dizzy, the same
pertronix unit worked great.  My suggestion to him is to send the distributer
(if Lucas) to Advance Distributers and have him rebuild it.  That was who did
mine for the Healey.  After 50+ years and 100,000+ miles or so, those springs
loose their strength and the lack of lubrication on the weights will throw off
an otherwise well tuned motor.

Olin Brimberry
61 3000 MKII
BT7 Sideshifter TriCarb
healey at hunterbane.com
www.hunterbane.com



On Nov 2, 2011, at 11:18 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
<healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and
sputtering" problem.  he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about these
things.  what should i be looking for.  suspected a coil and had it replaced,
but did not solve problem.   will naturally check carbs, etc., but suspect
ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms up.  any help
appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey at hunterbane.com

From edic at tampabay.rr.com  Thu Nov  3 03:57:16 2011
From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 06:57:16 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
References: <20111103031856.14355.qmail@server278.com>
	<DD9C4866-27E7-488F-943E-901F4FB2A220@hunterbane.com>
Message-ID: <4EB2738B.000005.01116@MEL-HP>

January 2009 I sent my distributor (BJ8) to Jeff Schlemmer of Advanced
Distributors for a rebuild. He didn't rebuild it because it was not needed,
but cleaned it up and added a Petronix. That unit failed about 8 months
later at our All British Car show in Safety Harbor, Fl. My car had to be
pushed to its assigned spot on Main Street. Oh the joys of antique cars.
Anyway, that was in 2010 and I sent the unit to Petronix for evaluation and
they said my Hall Cell was bad and replaced the unit. There is a 3 year
warranty. Its been a year later and I finally decided to take another
chance on the Petronix and I just reinstalled it. Once burned, twice shy.
 After the reinstall I got sputtering on a test drive, so I timed the car to
10-14 degrees BTDC at idle without vacuum, as specified by Jeff. It starts
quicker and runs great, so far. Anyway, I would contact Jeff, as Olin has
written, and get the straight and skinny from him. His number is (612)
804-5543. His address is 1149 Quincy Street, Shakopee, MN 55379. I have no
financial interest with Jeff just an interest in Healeys.
Good luck.
Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/39749
Land O Lakes, Fl




-------Original Message-------

From: Healey
Date: 11/3/2011 12:54:54 AM
To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix

Pertronix will not resolve a bad distributer.  Not sure what distributer the
Morgan has, but most likely it has centrifugal advance, and the springs are
worn.  I had the same issue with a Porsche that worked ok on points, but the
Pertronix highlighted the real problem.  After rebuilding the dizzy, the
same
pertronix unit worked great.  My suggestion to him is to send the
distributer
(if Lucas) to Advance Distributers and have him rebuild it.  That was who
did
mine for the Healey.  After 50+ years and 100,000+ miles or so, those
springs
loose their strength and the lack of lubrication on the weights will throw
off
an otherwise well tuned motor.

Olin Brimberry
61 3000 MKII
BT7 Sideshifter TriCarb
healey at hunterbane.com
www.hunterbane.com



On Nov 2, 2011, at 11:18 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
<healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and
sputtering" problem.  he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about these
things.  what should i be looking for.  suspected a coil and had it replaced

but did not solve problem.   will naturally check carbs, etc., but suspect
ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms up.  any help
appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey at hunterbane.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edic at tampabay.rr.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 01_splash_puppy_03b_en.gif]

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Nov  3 05:38:33 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 06:38:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <20111103031856.14355.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20111103031856.14355.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <E3D7314AD55B4DA5B1BF0AD743728A5B@oscar>

Since most DIY'rs don't have a "scope" simply hook up your timing light
(which most have) and see if it quits blinking in sync with the missing and
sputtering. Nice thing about this is you can drive the car with this
arrangement.
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 9:19 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] petronix

want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and
sputtering" problem.  he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about these
things.  what should i be looking for.  suspected a coil and had it
replaced, but did not solve problem.   will naturally check carbs, etc., but
suspect ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms up.
any help appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here.   
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov  3 06:41:17 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2011 06:41:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <E3D7314AD55B4DA5B1BF0AD743728A5B@oscar>
References: <20111103031856.14355.qmail@server278.com>
	<E3D7314AD55B4DA5B1BF0AD743728A5B@oscar>
Message-ID: <4EB299FD.8000309@comcast.net>

Great idea.

My BJ8 has an audio 'scope.'  Tune the BMC AM radio between stations and you can hear every plug fire (or miss) and fuel 
pump stroke.

Sorry, neighbors.

Bob



On 11/3/2011 5:38 AM, David Porter wrote:
> Since most DIY'rs don't have a "scope" simply hook up your timing light
> (which most have) and see if it quits blinking in sync with the missing and
> sputtering. Nice thing about this is you can drive the car with this
> arrangement.
> dave
>
> frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> cars:
>   www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net
> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 9:19 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] petronix
>
> want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and
> sputtering" problem.  he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about these
> things.  what should i be looking for.  suspected a coil and had it
> replaced, but did not solve problem.   will naturally check carbs, etc., but
> suspect ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms up.
> any help appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here.
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Nov  3 06:43:47 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 21:43:47 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <4EB2738B.000005.01116@MEL-HP>
References: <20111103031856.14355.qmail@server278.com>
	<DD9C4866-27E7-488F-943E-901F4FB2A220@hunterbane.com>
	<4EB2738B.000005.01116@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJddBoFbjEq4_sWDzJ4pbR7=gAoXv4LrLC_ar+=wbM=DA@mail.gmail.com>

Mel -

A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.  Is
that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.

You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
will prevent further burnouts.

Alan

On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 6:57 PM, edic at tampabay.rr.com
<edic at tampabay.rr.com>wrote:

> January 2009 I sent my distributor (BJ8) to Jeff Schlemmer of Advanced
> Distributors for a rebuild. He didn't rebuild it because it was not needed,
> but cleaned it up and added a Petronix. That unit failed about 8 months
> later at our All British Car show in Safety Harbor, Fl. My car had to be
> pushed to its assigned spot on Main Street. Oh the joys of antique cars.
> Anyway, that was in 2010 and I sent the unit to Petronix for evaluation and
> they said my Hall Cell was bad and replaced the unit. There is a 3 year
> warranty. It s been a year later and I finally decided to take another
> chance on the Petronix and I just reinstalled it. Once burned, twice shy.
>  After the reinstall I got sputtering on a test drive, so I timed the car
> to
> 10-14 degrees BTDC at idle without vacuum, as specified by Jeff. It starts
> quicker and runs great, so far. Anyway, I would contact Jeff, as Olin has
> written, and get the straight and skinny from him. His number is (612)
> 804-5543. His address is 1149 Quincy Street, Shakopee, MN 55379. I have no
> financial interest with Jeff just an interest in Healeys.
> Good luck.
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/39749
> Land O Lakes, Fl
>
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Healey
> Date: 11/3/2011 12:54:54 AM
> To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>
> Pertronix will not resolve a bad distributer.  Not sure what distributer
> the
> Morgan has, but most likely it has centrifugal advance, and the springs are
> worn.  I had the same issue with a Porsche that worked ok on points, but
> the
> Pertronix highlighted the real problem.  After rebuilding the dizzy, the
> same
> pertronix unit worked great.  My suggestion to him is to send the
> distributer
> (if Lucas) to Advance Distributers and have him rebuild it.  That was who
> did
> mine for the Healey.  After 50+ years and 100,000+ miles or so, those
> springs
> loose their strength and the lack of lubrication on the weights will throw
> off
> an otherwise well tuned motor.
>
> Olin Brimberry
> 61 3000 MKII
> BT7 Sideshifter TriCarb
> healey at hunterbane.com
> www.hunterbane.com
>
>
>
> On Nov 2, 2011, at 11:18 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
>
> > want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and
> sputtering" problem.  he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about
> these
> things.  what should i be looking for.  suspected a coil and had it
> replaced
>
> but did not solve problem.   will naturally check carbs, etc., but suspect
> ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms up.  any help
> appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey at hunterbane.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edic at tampabay.rr.com
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
> 01_splash_puppy_03b_en.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov  3 08:24:31 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 15:24:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJddBoFbjEq4_sWDzJ4pbR7=gAoXv4LrLC_ar+=wbM=DA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1298760397.1393443.1320333871795.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Alan, are you sure? I was told by tech support at Pertonix that the Lucas Sport Coil has 3-ohm resistance (stock coil has less). 

I ask because we're thinking of putting Pertronix in our BN2--can't find proper points at the 'usual suspects'--and need to know for sure. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

Mel - 

A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance 
coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods. Is 
that what you were running? If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix. 

You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that 
will prevent further burnouts. 

Alan 

On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 6:57 PM, edic at tampabay.rr.com 
<edic at tampabay.rr.com>wrote: 

> January 2009 I sent my distributor (BJ8) to Jeff Schlemmer of Advanced 
> Distributors for a rebuild. He didn't rebuild it because it was not needed, 
> but cleaned it up and added a Petronix. That unit failed about 8 months 
> later at our All British Car show in Safety Harbor, Fl. My car had to be 
> pushed to its assigned spot on Main Street. Oh the joys of antique cars. 
> Anyway, that was in 2010 and I sent the unit to Petronix for evaluation and 
> they said my Hall Cell was bad and replaced the unit. There is a 3 year 
> warranty. It s been a year later and I finally decided to take another 
> chance on the Petronix and I just reinstalled it. Once burned, twice shy. 
> After the reinstall I got sputtering on a test drive, so I timed the car 
> to 
> 10-14 degrees BTDC at idle without vacuum, as specified by Jeff. It starts 
> quicker and runs great, so far. Anyway, I would contact Jeff, as Olin has 
> written, and get the straight and skinny from him. His number is (612) 
> 804-5543. His address is 1149 Quincy Street, Shakopee, MN 55379. I have no 
> financial interest with Jeff just an interest in Healeys. 
> Good luck. 
> Mel Brunet 
> HBJ8L/39749 
> Land O Lakes, Fl 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------Original Message------- 
> 
> From: Healey 
> Date: 11/3/2011 12:54:54 AM 
> To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net 
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix 
> 
> Pertronix will not resolve a bad distributer. Not sure what distributer 
> the 
> Morgan has, but most likely it has centrifugal advance, and the springs are 
> worn. I had the same issue with a Porsche that worked ok on points, but 
> the 
> Pertronix highlighted the real problem. After rebuilding the dizzy, the 
> same 
> pertronix unit worked great. My suggestion to him is to send the 
> distributer 
> (if Lucas) to Advance Distributers and have him rebuild it. That was who 
> did 
> mine for the Healey. After 50+ years and 100,000+ miles or so, those 
> springs 
> loose their strength and the lack of lubrication on the weights will throw 
> off 
> an otherwise well tuned motor. 
> 
> Olin Brimberry 
> 61 3000 MKII 
> BT7 Sideshifter TriCarb 
> healey at hunterbane.com 
> www.hunterbane.com 
> 
> 
> 
> On Nov 2, 2011, at 11:18 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> 
> <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote: 
> 
> > want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and 
> sputtering" problem. he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about 
> these 
> things. what should i be looking for. suspected a coil and had it 
> replaced 
> 
> but did not solve problem. will naturally check carbs, etc., but suspect 
> ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms up. any help 
> appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here. 

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Nov  3 09:47:17 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 09:47:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bleeding
Message-ID: <COL121-W57D5813BB40356FE511E57A4D50@phx.gbl>

I have installed new clutch and brake master cylinders forgetting to bench
bleed first. Can it be done now on the car (BJ8)? I have a Mityvac (sorry for
spelling). Can I draw brake fluid from the car's reservoir into the cylinders
successfully at the out ports  and get rid of the air? If I need to remove the
cylinder to bench bleed where can I get the correct sized fittings to connect
clear tubes to the masters?  Sorry for such a basic question but I couldn't
find the Sim's sight which would probably tell me everything.
Thanks
Rich Kahn

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Thu Nov  3 10:07:00 2011
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 17:07:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <1298760397.1393443.1320333871795.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkJddBoFbjEq4_sWDzJ4pbR7=gAoXv4LrLC_ar+=wbM=DA@mail.gmail.com>,
	<1298760397.1393443.1320333871795.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W33E7F10945B5017CAA2EC3B5D50@phx.gbl>

Bob et al
I think a Pertronix is fine with a Lucas Sport coil. I hope so because I've
had the Pertronix in my BN4 for two years and 6000 miles with no problems.
Distributor was rebuilt by Jeff Schlemmer and he supplied the Pertronix. He
knew what I was running for a coil and didn't warn me or suggest replacing
it.
Cheers
Rick'59 BN4

> Alan, are you sure? I was told by tech support at Pertonix that the Lucas
Sport Coil has 3-ohm resistance (stock coil has less).
>
> I ask because we're thinking of putting Pertronix in our BN2--can't find
proper points at the 'usual suspects'--and need to know for sure.
>
> Bob

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Nov  3 11:58:09 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 11:58:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
Message-ID: <1320346689.47567.YahooMailClassic@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

--- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:



I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is
required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance or
greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one in my Bugeye
with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer rebuilt my distributor 4
years ago.  It has been working flawlessly ever since.  I even called the guys
at Pertronix to make sure about the coil.  They were the ones that told me the
minimum resistance required and how to measure it on the coil.
Mike MacLean
60 AN5
56 BN2

--- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
To:
 "edic at tampabay.rr.com" <edic at tampabay.rr.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM

Mel -

A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.  Is
that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.

You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
will prevent further burnouts.

Alan

From ssanders at midsouthinc.com  Thu Nov  3 13:35:46 2011
From: ssanders at midsouthinc.com (Steve Sanders)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 15:35:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
Message-ID: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>

Is there anyone that rebuilds fuel level sending units?  I  replaced my
original unit on my 61 BT-7 with a new unit at the beginning of the summer,
but now that one has gone bad.  I would like to have the original rewound -
float and mechanism are fine.

Steve Sanders
61  BT-7

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Nov  3 14:31:15 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2011 17:31:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Washer Bottle
Message-ID: <02d501cc9a6f$eaef7230$c0ce5690$@verizon.net>

Is there any way to clean years of stains off of the plastic windscreen
washer bottle? Or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  3 14:44:12 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 14:44:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bleeding
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W57D5813BB40356FE511E57A4D50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W57D5813BB40356FE511E57A4D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYpPqq=XdzrxgLK6dAYSVaTiotR+UAfhRY9Aj842=j5e_w@mail.gmail.com>

www.healey6.com
yes you can bleed it on the car, it just takes longer, don't run the
reservoir dry.





On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 9:47 AM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> I have installed new clutch and brake master cylinders forgetting to bench
> bleed first. Can it be done now on the car (BJ8)? I have a Mityvac (sorry
> for
> spelling). Can I draw brake fluid from the car's reservoir into the
> cylinders
> successfully at the out ports  and get rid of the air? If I need to remove
> the
> cylinder to bench bleed where can I get the correct sized fittings to
> connect
> clear tubes to the masters?  Sorry for such a basic question but I couldn't
> find the Sim's sight which would probably tell me everything.
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Nov  3 14:47:42 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 14:47:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
In-Reply-To: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
Message-ID: <1320356862.90763.YahooMailClassic@web180608.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Ebay item 200617867576

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

--- On Thu, 11/3/11, Steve Sanders <ssanders at midsouthinc.com> wrote:

From: Steve Sanders <ssanders at midsouthinc.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
To: "healey OwnersAutox" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 8:35 PM

Is there anyone that rebuilds fuel level sending units?  I  replaced my
original unit on my 61 BT-7 with a new unit at the beginning of the summer,
but now that one has gone bad.  I would like to have the original rewound -
float and mechanism are fine.

Steve Sanders
61  BT-7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Nov  3 15:16:53 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 15:16:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
In-Reply-To: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
References: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRsHhbiRvQUmn6vp4SHtrugfpjv5ZmKMDm_Z+A3208jHg@mail.gmail.com>

Steve,

Roger Moment does mine.  Fantastic job as is everything that Roger does.

"Roger Moment" <rmoment at comcast.net>

Cheers,

Curt

On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 1:35 PM, Steve Sanders <ssanders at midsouthinc.com>wrote:

> Is there anyone that rebuilds fuel level sending units?  I  replaced my
> original unit on my 61 BT-7 with a new unit at the beginning of the summer,
> but now that one has gone bad.  I would like to have the original rewound -
> float and mechanism are fine.
>
> Steve Sanders
> 61  BT-7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Thu Nov  3 17:51:02 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:51:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <1298760397.1393443.1320333871795.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1298760397.1393443.1320333871795.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CE68A2F5F41EF1-634-170AFF@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>

I bought a new 3 ohm  lucas sport coil in April.  In early June the coil
failed and fried the Pertronix.  I bought a new Pertronix with the 3 ohm flame
thrower and no problem at all.


Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Nov 3, 2011 8:24 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix


Alan, are you sure? I was told by tech support at Pertonix that the Lucas
Sport
Coil has 3-ohm resistance (stock coil has less).

I ask because we're thinking of putting Pertronix in our BN2--can't find
proper
points at the 'usual suspects'--and need to know for sure.

Bob


--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

----- Original Message -----

Mel -

A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods. Is
that what you were running? If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.

You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
will prevent further burnouts.

Alan

On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 6:57 PM, edic at tampabay.rr.com
<edic at tampabay.rr.com>wrote:

> January 2009 I sent my distributor (BJ8) to Jeff Schlemmer of Advanced
> Distributors for a rebuild. He didn't rebuild it because it was not needed,
> but cleaned it up and added a Petronix. That unit failed about 8 months
> later at our All British Car show in Safety Harbor, Fl. My car had to be
> pushed to its assigned spot on Main Street. Oh the joys of antique cars.
> Anyway, that was in 2010 and I sent the unit to Petronix for evaluation and
> they said my Hall Cell was bad and replaced the unit. There is a 3 year
> warranty. It s been a year later and I finally decided to take another
> chance on the Petronix and I just reinstalled it. Once burned, twice shy.
> After the reinstall I got sputtering on a test drive, so I timed the car
> to
> 10-14 degrees BTDC at idle without vacuum, as specified by Jeff. It starts
> quicker and runs great, so far. Anyway, I would contact Jeff, as Olin has
> written, and get the straight and skinny from him. His number is (612)
> 804-5543. His address is 1149 Quincy Street, Shakopee, MN 55379. I have no
> financial interest with Jeff just an interest in Healeys.
> Good luck.
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/39749
> Land O Lakes, Fl
>
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Healey
> Date: 11/3/2011 12:54:54 AM
> To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>
> Pertronix will not resolve a bad distributer. Not sure what distributer
> the
> Morgan has, but most likely it has centrifugal advance, and the springs are
> worn. I had the same issue with a Porsche that worked ok on points, but
> the
> Pertronix highlighted the real problem. After rebuilding the dizzy, the
> same
> pertronix unit worked great. My suggestion to him is to send the
> distributer
> (if Lucas) to Advance Distributers and have him rebuild it. That was who
> did
> mine for the Healey. After 50+ years and 100,000+ miles or so, those
> springs
> loose their strength and the lack of lubrication on the weights will throw
> off
> an otherwise well tuned motor.
>
> Olin Brimberry
> 61 3000 MKII
> BT7 Sideshifter TriCarb
> healey at hunterbane.com
> www.hunterbane.com
>
>
>
> On Nov 2, 2011, at 11:18 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
>
> > want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and
> sputtering" problem. he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about
> these
> things. what should i be looking for. suspected a coil and had it
> replaced
>
> but did not solve problem. will naturally check carbs, etc., but suspect
> ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms up. any help
> appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Nov  3 18:08:32 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 21:08:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <1320346689.47567.YahooMailClassic@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20111103210832.FS551.79029.root@pamxwww02-z01>

FWIW, I have had a Pertronix with a Lucas Sport Coil for 10 years with MANY miles--once across Europe for 47 days--over 6000 miles.  Still going strong with same units 10 years later.

BJ8-----does that make a difference?

tom

---- Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote: 

=============
--- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:



I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is
required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance or
greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one in my Bugeye
with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer rebuilt my distributor 4
years ago.  It has been working flawlessly ever since.  I even called the guys
at Pertronix to make sure about the coil.  They were the ones that told me the
minimum resistance required and how to measure it on the coil.
Mike MacLean
60 AN5
56 BN2

--- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
To:
 "edic at tampabay.rr.com" <edic at tampabay.rr.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM

Mel -

A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.  Is
that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.

You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
will prevent further burnouts.

Alan
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Nov  3 19:00:21 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 19:00:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bleeding
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYpPqq=XdzrxgLK6dAYSVaTiotR+UAfhRY9Aj842=j5e_w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W57D5813BB40356FE511E57A4D50@phx.gbl>
	<CACPMnYpPqq=XdzrxgLK6dAYSVaTiotR+UAfhRY9Aj842=j5e_w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <989C7675-EE6F-42D4-B0B2-640D00CC1374@gmail.com>

It can be a real bitch to bleed a totally dry master brake cylinder on the car
if it was not bench bled first.
The best way if you don't want to take it off and we are talking a driver not
a trailer queen is to pack the area below the master cylinder with clean rags
and have someone pump up the pedal hold it down the you loosen the hydraulic
fitting at the master. Tighten and repeat until only fluid comes out.
Then bleed at the wheels.
If we are talking a show car I would pull the master and bench bleed it.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 3, 2011, at 14:44, I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> www.healey6.com
> yes you can bleed it on the car, it just takes longer, don't run the
> reservoir dry.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 9:47 AM, Richard Kahn
<tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> I have installed new clutch and brake master cylinders forgetting to bench
>> bleed first. Can it be done now on the car (BJ8)? I have a Mityvac (sorry
>> for
>> spelling). Can I draw brake fluid from the car's reservoir into the
>> cylinders
>> successfully at the out ports  and get rid of the air? If I need to remove
>> the
>> cylinder to bench bleed where can I get the correct sized fittings to
>> connect
>> clear tubes to the masters?  Sorry for such a basic question but I
couldn't
>> find the Sim's sight which would probably tell me everything.
>> Thanks
>> Rich Kahn
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>   _______                                  _______
>     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>         (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Nov  3 19:33:01 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 21:33:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <20111103210832.FS551.79029.root@pamxwww02-z01>
References: <20111103210832.FS551.79029.root@pamxwww02-z01>
Message-ID: <CD1A8596EA1942F782AC57E52640DD02@GregPC>

I used a Pertronix for 10 years with a Lucas Sport coil too, no  issues, 
although I also believe I have heard the story from  more people than just 
Alan that it might not be the best mix.

Saw the new Senna movie tonight, it was very good, wife even liked it. quite 
a story, quite an amazing talent.

Greg Lemon




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>
To: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>; <edic at tampabay.rr.com>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix


> FWIW, I have had a Pertronix with a Lucas Sport Coil for 10 years with 
> MANY miles--once across Europe for 47 days--over 6000 miles.  Still going 
> strong with same units 10 years later.
>
> BJ8-----does that make a difference?
>
> tom
>
> ---- Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is
> required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance or
> greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one in my 
> Bugeye
> with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer rebuilt my 
> distributor 4
> years ago.  It has been working flawlessly ever since.  I even called the 
> guys
> at Pertronix to make sure about the coil.  They were the ones that told me 
> the
> minimum resistance required and how to measure it on the coil.
> Mike MacLean
> 60 AN5
> 56 BN2
>
> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
> To:
> "edic at tampabay.rr.com" <edic at tampabay.rr.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM
>
> Mel -
>
> A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
> coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.  Is
> that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.
>
> You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
> will prevent further burnouts.
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov  3 22:25:49 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2011 22:25:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
In-Reply-To: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
References: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111103222007.0211fd70@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I recently purchased a restored original from West Valley 
Instruments. Morris is the owner and the rebuilt original I have 
looks perfect. I hope it works as well as it looks!

http://westvalleyinstruments.com/index.htm

westvalleyinstruments at gmail.com

John Spaur
'62 BT7

At 03:35 PM 11/3/2011 -0500, Steve Sanders wrote:
>Is there anyone that rebuilds fuel level sending units?
>Steve Sanders
>61  BT-7

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Nov  3 22:27:42 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 16:27:42 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bleeding
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W57D5813BB40356FE511E57A4D50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W57D5813BB40356FE511E57A4D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <30F1850F-C4AF-4D20-8093-A5C5141C233D@gmail.com>

I did this last weekend on my BJ8. Fitted new calipers, new fluid  
canister, new booster, rebuilt brake master cyl, and replaced all pads  
& linings. All were dry.
Just takes a little longer to bleed, and I had the car up on a hoist,  
which made it far easier.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 04/11/2011, at 3:47 AM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I have installed new clutch and brake master cylinders forgetting to  
> bench
> bleed first. Can it be done now on the car (BJ8)? I have a Mityvac  
> (sorry for
> spelling). Can I draw brake fluid from the car's reservoir into the  
> cylinders
> successfully at the out ports  and get rid of the air? If I need to  
> remove the
> cylinder to bench bleed where can I get the correct sized fittings  
> to connect
> clear tubes to the masters?  Sorry for such a basic question but I  
> couldn't
> find the Sim's sight which would probably tell me everything.
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Nov  3 23:43:07 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 07:43:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Washer Bottle
In-Reply-To: <02d501cc9a6f$eaef7230$c0ce5690$@verizon.net>
References: <02d501cc9a6f$eaef7230$c0ce5690$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBNNOm7h-xP2x3HXr8wV3oJrBvjvgBdpABz_CW-khRN+Q@mail.gmail.com>

Put it into the wash mashine. Dont laugh, it usualy works.

Gergo

2011/11/3 John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>

> Is there any way to clean years of stains off of the plastic windscreen
> washer bottle? Or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one?
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Nov  4 05:54:51 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 08:54:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111103222007.0211fd70@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20111103222007.0211fd70@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000f01cc9af0$f1530480$d3f90d80$@net>

Is this Moma Instruments under a new name? According to their web site the
fellow's name is Morris Mintz.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: 2011-11-04 1:26
To: Steve Sanders
Cc: healey OwnersAutox
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit

I recently purchased a restored original from West Valley 
Instruments. Morris is the owner and the rebuilt original I have 
looks perfect. I hope it works as well as it looks!

http://westvalleyinstruments.com/index.htm

westvalleyinstruments at gmail.com

John Spaur
'62 BT7

At 03:35 PM 11/3/2011 -0500, Steve Sanders wrote:
>Is there anyone that rebuilds fuel level sending units?
>Steve Sanders
>61  BT-7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Nov  4 06:10:55 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 9:10:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <CD1A8596EA1942F782AC57E52640DD02@GregPC>
Message-ID: <20111104091055.NR5O8.466983.root@pamxwww10-z01>

I simply don't understand.  When I bought the Pertronix I was specifically told that I HAD to install a Lucus Sport Coil or it would not function properly.  (??)

tom


---- Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote: 

=============
I used a Pertronix for 10 years with a Lucas Sport coil too, no  issues, 
although I also believe I have heard the story from  more people than just 
Alan that it might not be the best mix.

Saw the new Senna movie tonight, it was very good, wife even liked it. quite 
a story, quite an amazing talent.

Greg Lemon




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>
To: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>; <edic at tampabay.rr.com>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix


> FWIW, I have had a Pertronix with a Lucas Sport Coil for 10 years with 
> MANY miles--once across Europe for 47 days--over 6000 miles.  Still going 
> strong with same units 10 years later.
>
> BJ8-----does that make a difference?
>
> tom
>
> ---- Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is
> required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance or
> greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one in my 
> Bugeye
> with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer rebuilt my 
> distributor 4
> years ago.  It has been working flawlessly ever since.  I even called the 
> guys
> at Pertronix to make sure about the coil.  They were the ones that told me 
> the
> minimum resistance required and how to measure it on the coil.
> Mike MacLean
> 60 AN5
> 56 BN2
>
> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
> To:
> "edic at tampabay.rr.com" <edic at tampabay.rr.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM
>
> Mel -
>
> A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
> coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.  Is
> that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.
>
> You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
> will prevent further burnouts.
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Nov  4 06:24:30 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 08:24:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Washer Bottle
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmBNNOm7h-xP2x3HXr8wV3oJrBvjvgBdpABz_CW-khRN+Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <02d501cc9a6f$eaef7230$c0ce5690$@verizon.net>
	<CA+QDXmBNNOm7h-xP2x3HXr8wV3oJrBvjvgBdpABz_CW-khRN+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EB3E78E.2080708@justbrits.com>

<< Put it into the wash mashine. >>

Agreed Gergo,  BUT I recommend on e does so with a 3/4 to full load of 
towels,
T Shirts and/or blue jeans ! ! !

<< Dont laugh,>>

NOPE ! ! :-) ;-) BTDT !

<< it usualy works.>>

Has to about 90% to 95% great results [at least on MGB ones :-D ].

Ed

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Nov  4 06:57:21 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 09:57:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
In-Reply-To: <000f01cc9af0$f1530480$d3f90d80$@net>
References: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20111103222007.0211fd70@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<000f01cc9af0$f1530480$d3f90d80$@net>
Message-ID: <032801cc9af9$ad562560$08027020$@verizon.net>

MOMA is in Albuquerque, NMex according to the last information that I have.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 8:55 AM
To: 'john spaur'; 'Steve Sanders'
Cc: 'healey OwnersAutox'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit

Is this Moma Instruments under a new name? According to their web site the
fellow's name is Morris Mintz.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: 2011-11-04 1:26
To: Steve Sanders
Cc: healey OwnersAutox
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit

I recently purchased a restored original from West Valley Instruments.
Morris is the owner and the rebuilt original I have looks perfect. I hope it
works as well as it looks!

http://westvalleyinstruments.com/index.htm

westvalleyinstruments at gmail.com

John Spaur
'62 BT7

At 03:35 PM 11/3/2011 -0500, Steve Sanders wrote:
>Is there anyone that rebuilds fuel level sending units?
>Steve Sanders
>61  BT-7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Nov  4 07:24:31 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 10:24:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] So you want to ship your car..............
Message-ID: <033401cc9afd$78e8fc40$6abaf4c0$@verizon.net>

WOW. I shipped my Detroit iron AND my Healey in regular moving vans many
many times across the country during my working days and never had a
problem. Of course, my company used regular moving companies such as United
Van Lines, etc. and they always built a protective cage around the cars AND
used steel ramps. You get what you pay for.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of " Just Brits " Shop
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 12:16 AM
To: 4 - Healeys; 4 - MG List; 4 - MG Ts; 4 - Spridgets
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam][Healeys] So you want to ship your
car..............

CHEAPLY ? ! ? ! ? ! ?

********************************************************************
How Not to UN-load your sports car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlqsUQIoV3s&feature=related
*********************************************************************

Wanna RE-think that "idea" ? ! ?

Anon
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Nov  4 07:26:52 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 07:26:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] West valley instruments
Message-ID: <CABXhz88tBgVZrRUXqyKj=8LPvDE_oUcf0=e=-D4a8NmUWvtxTA@mail.gmail.com>

I had them rebuild my gauges 35+ years ago...... they still work an look
good. Don't know who owns them today.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Nov  4 07:31:09 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 07:31:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <20111104091055.NR5O8.466983.root@pamxwww10-z01>
References: <20111104091055.NR5O8.466983.root@pamxwww10-z01>
Message-ID: <4EB3F72D.6050105@comcast.net>

Tom,

Who told you that?  Carl at Pertronix tech support told me the Ignitor needs a coil with higher impedance--e.g. a Lucas 
Sports or Pertronix coil--on 4-cyl cars due to the longer dwell.

I've had an Ignitor with stock coil on my BJ8 for probably 8 years or so, with nary a problem.

Bob




On 11/4/2011 6:10 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> I simply don't understand.  When I bought the Pertronix I was specifically told that I HAD to install a Lucus Sport Coil or it would not function properly.  (??)
>
> tom
>
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Nov  4 07:42:36 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 10:42:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] WEb Site Updates
Message-ID: <033801cc9aff$ff3604d0$fda20e70$@verizon.net>

The following are recent updates:

1. Link to Rich Chrysler's web site showing restoration photos on the Links
page, Best of the Best, Restoration Photos and Restoration Business
Sections.

2. How to set rear view mirrors to eliminate blind spots. Link to article on
Technical page, Safety section.

3. Updated information for MacGregor Auto Parts (source for Bristleflex) on
the Parts page, Body section. Martin called me on 10/24/11 and explained
that his web site is six years out of date and that he offers many more
colors (at a higher price) than what appears on the site. I would assume
also that he has more products now than listed.

4. Inclusion of the web site URL for West Valley Instruments in Reseda, CA.
Rebuilders of Gauges. On the Parts page, Gauge section.

5. Interesting article on additives for Gasahol to prevent water buildup.
Technical page, Fuel system Section.


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Nov  4 07:45:27 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 10:45:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <4EB3F72D.6050105@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20111104104527.0MBCV.467975.root@pamxwww10-z01>

The people who sold me the Pertronix.  Been so long I don't remember who it was.  In any event, the SC hasn't hurt anything.  At worse, I just wasted my money.

tom




---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
Tom,

Who told you that?  Carl at Pertronix tech support told me the Ignitor needs a coil with higher impedance--e.g. a Lucas 
Sports or Pertronix coil--on 4-cyl cars due to the longer dwell.

I've had an Ignitor with stock coil on my BJ8 for probably 8 years or so, with nary a problem.

Bob




On 11/4/2011 6:10 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> I simply don't understand.  When I bought the Pertronix I was specifically told that I HAD to install a Lucus Sport Coil or it would not function properly.  (??)
>
> tom
>
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Fri Nov  4 07:46:26 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 15:46:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Washer Bottle
In-Reply-To: <4EB3E78E.2080708@justbrits.com>
References: <02d501cc9a6f$eaef7230$c0ce5690$@verizon.net>
	<CA+QDXmBNNOm7h-xP2x3HXr8wV3oJrBvjvgBdpABz_CW-khRN+Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EB3E78E.2080708@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmDuQkvmNRJ9pSssR=Knv6L7XVC3SnL247ik1rLJ1-diKg@mail.gmail.com>

Dishwasher also works sometimes, but I use fabric softner in the
wasmashine, and it restores the soft touch of the plastic items.
Neither will make the Wife happy though :D.

Gergo

2011/11/4 " Just Brits " Shop <shop at justbrits.com>

> << Put it into the wash mashine. >>
>
> Agreed Gergo,  BUT I recommend on e does so with a 3/4 to full load of
> towels,
> T Shirts and/or blue jeans ! ! !
>
> << Dont laugh,>>
>
> NOPE ! ! :-) ;-) BTDT !
>
> << it usualy works.>>
>
> Has to about 90% to 95% great results [at least on MGB ones :-D ].
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Nov  4 07:57:19 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 10:57:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
In-Reply-To: <000f01cc9af0$f1530480$d3f90d80$@net>
References: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20111103222007.0211fd70@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<000f01cc9af0$f1530480$d3f90d80$@net>
Message-ID: <001901cc9b02$0d2db180$27891480$@rr.com>

I have used West Valley Instruments in Reseda and Van Nuys several times
over the years since 1990, and have been very happy with their service.
Morris (somebody) is, I believe, the original "Mo" of Mo Ma in New Mexico,
but WV is not a new name for Mo Ma.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 8:55 AM
To: 'john spaur'; 'Steve Sanders'
Cc: 'healey OwnersAutox'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit

Is this Moma Instruments under a new name? According to their web site the
fellow's name is Morris Mintz.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: 2011-11-04 1:26
To: Steve Sanders
Cc: healey OwnersAutox
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit

I recently purchased a restored original from West Valley 
Instruments. Morris is the owner and the rebuilt original I have 
looks perfect. I hope it works as well as it looks!

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Fri Nov  4 07:59:37 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 07:59:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <20111104091055.NR5O8.466983.root@pamxwww10-z01>
References: <CD1A8596EA1942F782AC57E52640DD02@GregPC>
	<20111104091055.NR5O8.466983.root@pamxwww10-z01>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D2F@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

Any of this discussion affected with the use of a Mallory dual point
dist.?  I was under the impression that the Petronix/Coil compatibility
issues had something to do with the dwell angle on 4 cyl engines - what
is the effect lengthening of the dwell angle with a dual point dist?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 6:11 AM
To: Michael MacLean; edic at tampabay.rr.com; Greg Lemon;
healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix

I simply don't understand.  When I bought the Pertronix I was
specifically told that I HAD to install a Lucus Sport Coil or it would
not function properly.  (??)

tom


---- Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

=============
I used a Pertronix for 10 years with a Lucas Sport coil too, no  issues,
although I also believe I have heard the story from  more people than
just Alan that it might not be the best mix.

Saw the new Senna movie tonight, it was very good, wife even liked it.
quite a story, quite an amazing talent.

Greg Lemon




----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>
To: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>; <edic at tampabay.rr.com>;
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix


> FWIW, I have had a Pertronix with a Lucas Sport Coil for 10 years with

> MANY miles--once across Europe for 47 days--over 6000 miles.  Still
> going strong with same units 10 years later.
>
> BJ8-----does that make a difference?
>
> tom
>
> ---- Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is

> required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance

> or greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one
> in my Bugeye with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer
> rebuilt my distributor 4 years ago.  It has been working flawlessly
> ever since.  I even called the guys at Pertronix to make sure about
> the coil.  They were the ones that told me the minimum resistance
> required and how to measure it on the coil.
> Mike MacLean
> 60 AN5
> 56 BN2
>
> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
> To:
> "edic at tampabay.rr.com" <edic at tampabay.rr.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM
>
> Mel -
>
> A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low
> resistance coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended
> running periods.  Is that what you were running?  If so, that's what
burned out your Pertronix.
>
> You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance,
> that will prevent further burnouts.
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Nov  4 08:04:56 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 16:04:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <20111104091055.NR5O8.466983.root@pamxwww10-z01>
References: <20111104091055.NR5O8.466983.root@pamxwww10-z01>
Message-ID: <4EB3FF18.20705@chello.nl>

Bullshit.
It will function fine with most 12V 3 Ohm coils or with coils plus 
ballast resistor with a total resistance of 3+ Ohm.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 4-11-2011 14:10, Tom Felts schreef:
> I simply don't understand.  When I bought the Pertronix I was specifically told that I HAD to install a Lucus Sport Coil or it would not function properly.  (??)
>
> tom
>
>
> ---- Greg Lemon<glemon at neb.rr.com>  wrote:
>
> =============
> I used a Pertronix for 10 years with a Lucas Sport coil too, no  issues,
> although I also believe I have heard the story from  more people than just
> Alan that it might not be the best mix.
>
> Saw the new Senna movie tonight, it was very good, wife even liked it. quite
> a story, quite an amazing talent.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Felts"<tomfelts at windstream.net>
> To: "Michael MacLean"<rrengineer.mike at att.net>;<edic at tampabay.rr.com>;
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>
>
>> FWIW, I have had a Pertronix with a Lucas Sport Coil for 10 years with
>> MANY miles--once across Europe for 47 days--over 6000 miles.  Still going
>> strong with same units 10 years later.
>>
>> BJ8-----does that make a difference?
>>
>> tom
>>
>> ---- Michael MacLean<rrengineer.mike at att.net>  wrote:
>>
>> =============
>> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean<rrengineer.mike at att.net>  wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is
>> required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance or
>> greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one in my
>> Bugeye
>> with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer rebuilt my
>> distributor 4
>> years ago.  It has been working flawlessly ever since.  I even called the
>> guys
>> at Pertronix to make sure about the coil.  They were the ones that told me
>> the
>> minimum resistance required and how to measure it on the coil.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 60 AN5
>> 56 BN2
>>
>> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>
>> From: Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>> To:
>> "edic at tampabay.rr.com"<edic at tampabay.rr.com>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM
>>
>> Mel -
>>
>> A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
>> coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.  Is
>> that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.
>>
>> You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
>> will prevent further burnouts.
>>
>> Alan
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4594 - datum van uitgifte: 11/03/11

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Nov  4 08:23:46 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 08:23:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <4EB3FF18.20705@chello.nl>
References: <20111104091055.NR5O8.466983.root@pamxwww10-z01>
	<4EB3FF18.20705@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <E7BBD647-1E29-4B2E-9F28-1018468327CE@att.net>

I agree. If yours burned out it was probably because you left the ignition on
too long without running the engine. A known Pertronix killer.
Mike MacLean

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 4, 2011, at 8:04, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Bullshit.
> It will function fine with most 12V 3 Ohm coils or with coils plus ballast
resistor with a total resistance of 3+ Ohm.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 4-11-2011 14:10, Tom Felts schreef:
>> I simply don't understand.  When I bought the Pertronix I was specifically
told that I HAD to install a Lucus Sport Coil or it would not function
properly.  (??)
>>
>> tom
>>
>>
>> ---- Greg Lemon<glemon at neb.rr.com>  wrote:
>>
>> =============
>> I used a Pertronix for 10 years with a Lucas Sport coil too, no  issues,
>> although I also believe I have heard the story from  more people than just
>> Alan that it might not be the best mix.
>>
>> Saw the new Senna movie tonight, it was very good, wife even liked it.
quite
>> a story, quite an amazing talent.
>>
>> Greg Lemon
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tom Felts"<tomfelts at windstream.net>
>> To: "Michael MacLean"<rrengineer.mike at att.net>;<edic at tampabay.rr.com>;
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:08 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>>
>>
>>> FWIW, I have had a Pertronix with a Lucas Sport Coil for 10 years with
>>> MANY miles--once across Europe for 47 days--over 6000 miles.  Still going
>>> strong with same units 10 years later.
>>>
>>> BJ8-----does that make a difference?
>>>
>>> tom
>>>
>>> ---- Michael MacLean<rrengineer.mike at att.net>  wrote:
>>>
>>> =============
>>> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean<rrengineer.mike at att.net>  wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is
>>> required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance or
>>> greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one in my
>>> Bugeye
>>> with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer rebuilt my
>>> distributor 4
>>> years ago.  It has been working flawlessly ever since.  I even called the
>>> guys
>>> at Pertronix to make sure about the coil.  They were the ones that told
me
>>> the
>>> minimum resistance required and how to measure it on the coil.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>> 60 AN5
>>> 56 BN2
>>>
>>> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>>
>>> From: Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>>> To:
>>> "edic at tampabay.rr.com"<edic at tampabay.rr.com>
>>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM
>>>
>>> Mel -
>>>
>>> A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low
resistance
>>> coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.
Is
>>> that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your
Pertronix.
>>>
>>> You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
>>> will prevent further burnouts.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4594 - datum van uitgifte:
11/03/11

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Nov  4 08:25:20 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 11:25:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <4EB3FF18.20705@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <20111104112520.O628O.468400.root@pamxwww10-z01>

Never used a ballast resister.  Good to know though.  They must have really wanted to sell me something---and I "bought" it.  Isn't correct info great?

tom



---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
Bullshit.
It will function fine with most 12V 3 Ohm coils or with coils plus 
ballast resistor with a total resistance of 3+ Ohm.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 4-11-2011 14:10, Tom Felts schreef:
> I simply don't understand.  When I bought the Pertronix I was specifically told that I HAD to install a Lucus Sport Coil or it would not function properly.  (??)
>
> tom
>
>
> ---- Greg Lemon<glemon at neb.rr.com>  wrote:
>
> =============
> I used a Pertronix for 10 years with a Lucas Sport coil too, no  issues,
> although I also believe I have heard the story from  more people than just
> Alan that it might not be the best mix.
>
> Saw the new Senna movie tonight, it was very good, wife even liked it. quite
> a story, quite an amazing talent.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Felts"<tomfelts at windstream.net>
> To: "Michael MacLean"<rrengineer.mike at att.net>;<edic at tampabay.rr.com>;
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>
>
>> FWIW, I have had a Pertronix with a Lucas Sport Coil for 10 years with
>> MANY miles--once across Europe for 47 days--over 6000 miles.  Still going
>> strong with same units 10 years later.
>>
>> BJ8-----does that make a difference?
>>
>> tom
>>
>> ---- Michael MacLean<rrengineer.mike at att.net>  wrote:
>>
>> =============
>> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean<rrengineer.mike at att.net>  wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is
>> required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance or
>> greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one in my
>> Bugeye
>> with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer rebuilt my
>> distributor 4
>> years ago.  It has been working flawlessly ever since.  I even called the
>> guys
>> at Pertronix to make sure about the coil.  They were the ones that told me
>> the
>> minimum resistance required and how to measure it on the coil.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 60 AN5
>> 56 BN2
>>
>> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>
>> From: Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>> To:
>> "edic at tampabay.rr.com"<edic at tampabay.rr.com>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM
>>
>> Mel -
>>
>> A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
>> coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.  Is
>> that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.
>>
>> You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
>> will prevent further burnouts.
>>
>> Alan
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4594 - datum van uitgifte: 11/03/11

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Nov  4 08:26:57 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 11:26:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <E7BBD647-1E29-4B2E-9F28-1018468327CE@att.net>
Message-ID: <20111104112657.2LHK2.468418.root@pamxwww10-z01>

Mine has never burned out----it has worked fine with the LSC for 10 years--but it is good to know it will work fine with the original coil.


---- Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote: 

=============
I agree. If yours burned out it was probably because you left the ignition on too long without running the engine. A known Pertronix killer.
Mike MacLean

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 4, 2011, at 8:04, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Bullshit.
> It will function fine with most 12V 3 Ohm coils or with coils plus ballast resistor with a total resistance of 3+ Ohm.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> 
> 
> Op 4-11-2011 14:10, Tom Felts schreef:
>> I simply don't understand.  When I bought the Pertronix I was specifically told that I HAD to install a Lucus Sport Coil or it would not function properly.  (??)
>> 
>> tom
>> 
>> 
>> ---- Greg Lemon<glemon at neb.rr.com>  wrote:
>> 
>> =============
>> I used a Pertronix for 10 years with a Lucas Sport coil too, no  issues,
>> although I also believe I have heard the story from  more people than just
>> Alan that it might not be the best mix.
>> 
>> Saw the new Senna movie tonight, it was very good, wife even liked it. quite
>> a story, quite an amazing talent.
>> 
>> Greg Lemon
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tom Felts"<tomfelts at windstream.net>
>> To: "Michael MacLean"<rrengineer.mike at att.net>;<edic at tampabay.rr.com>;
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:08 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>> 
>> 
>>> FWIW, I have had a Pertronix with a Lucas Sport Coil for 10 years with
>>> MANY miles--once across Europe for 47 days--over 6000 miles.  Still going
>>> strong with same units 10 years later.
>>> 
>>> BJ8-----does that make a difference?
>>> 
>>> tom
>>> 
>>> ---- Michael MacLean<rrengineer.mike at att.net>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> =============
>>> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Michael MacLean<rrengineer.mike at att.net>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I don't know where you get your information from Alan, but all that is
>>> required for the Pertronix unit is a coil that has 3.0 ohms resistance or
>>> greater.  The Lucas Sport Coil has this and I have been using one in my
>>> Bugeye
>>> with a Pertronix unit installed since Jeff Schlemmer rebuilt my
>>> distributor 4
>>> years ago.  It has been working flawlessly ever since.  I even called the
>>> guys
>>> at Pertronix to make sure about the coil.  They were the ones that told me
>>> the
>>> minimum resistance required and how to measure it on the coil.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>> 60 AN5
>>> 56 BN2
>>> 
>>> --- On Thu, 11/3/11, Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> From: Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
>>> To:
>>> "edic at tampabay.rr.com"<edic at tampabay.rr.com>
>>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Date: Thursday, November 3, 2011, 1:43 PM
>>> 
>>> Mel -
>>> 
>>> A standard Pertronix unit is unable to handle a high energy low resistance
>>> coil like the Lucas Sport Coil (common) over extended running periods.  Is
>>> that what you were running?  If so, that's what burned out your Pertronix.
>>> 
>>> You need to get a Pertronix coil with a 3 ohm internal resistance, that
>>> will prevent further burnouts.
>>> 
>>> Alan
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>> 
>> 
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4594 - datum van uitgifte: 11/03/11

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Nov  4 09:11:43 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 09:11:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] WEb Site Updates
In-Reply-To: <033801cc9aff$ff3604d0$fda20e70$@verizon.net>
References: <033801cc9aff$ff3604d0$fda20e70$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYoprJO0ZNGeZb0UD7DGWxqyfCvrM3=_WOJyM6s-iuhkUw@mail.gmail.com>

Wow Morris is still there at West Valley Instruments! We were all so young
then.... 36 years ago.....

On Fri, Nov 4, 2011 at 7:42 AM, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:

> The following are recent updates:
>
> 1. Link to Rich Chrysler's web site showing restoration photos on the Links
> page, Best of the Best, Restoration Photos and Restoration Business
> Sections.
>
> 2. How to set rear view mirrors to eliminate blind spots. Link to article
> on
> Technical page, Safety section.
>
> 3. Updated information for MacGregor Auto Parts (source for Bristleflex) on
> the Parts page, Body section. Martin called me on 10/24/11 and explained
> that his web site is six years out of date and that he offers many more
> colors (at a higher price) than what appears on the site. I would assume
> also that he has more products now than listed.
>
> 4. Inclusion of the web site URL for West Valley Instruments in Reseda, CA.
> Rebuilders of Gauges. On the Parts page, Gauge section.
>
> 5. Interesting article on additives for Gasahol to prevent water buildup.
> Technical page, Fuel system Section.
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Nov  4 09:40:58 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 09:40:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
In-Reply-To: <000f01cc9af0$f1530480$d3f90d80$@net>
References: <4A858BF2272744EF8841C9C7D543AE94@C>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20111103222007.0211fd70@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<000f01cc9af0$f1530480$d3f90d80$@net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeS_QmKrCANEeL9V-5B4=GQmBoWAmT6faa8HaS3=H2uhMA@mail.gmail.com>

Rich,

MoMa comes from MOrris Mintz and MArgaret Lucas.  They separated many years
ago.

After Morris ruined the faces on my 100 gauges and never made good on the
mistake, I vowed to NEVER use him again.  Margaret did good work, don't
know if she still does.  If you want Concours work out of Margaret you MUST
be specific in your directions to her.

Cheers.

Curt

On Fri, Nov 4, 2011 at 5:54 AM, Rich Chrysler <richchrysler at quickclic.net>wrote:

> Is this Moma Instruments under a new name? According to their web site the
> fellow's name is Morris Mintz.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of john spaur
> Sent: 2011-11-04 1:26
> To: Steve Sanders
> Cc: healey OwnersAutox
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repair of fuel level sending unit
>
> I recently purchased a restored original from West Valley
> Instruments. Morris is the owner and the rebuilt original I have
> looks perfect. I hope it works as well as it looks!
>
> http://westvalleyinstruments.com/index.htm
>
> westvalleyinstruments at gmail.com
>
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
>
> At 03:35 PM 11/3/2011 -0500, Steve Sanders wrote:
> >Is there anyone that rebuilds fuel level sending units?
> >Steve Sanders
> >61  BT-7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From agrossman at pacific.net  Fri Nov  4 12:58:37 2011
From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 12:58:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trunk latch ???
Message-ID: <506D830C3AD847C78DF6A385F05261FA@AlanPC>

Hi,
Still trying to improve a few things on the '58 BN4 I acquired recently.
So the car came with a new trunk w/strip, that appears to be correct. I glued
it to the lid, big hump to the outside (per moss catalog) and as expected I
need to rework the latch/strike relationship.

First, what are the correct machine screws to attach latch to lid? Head shape,
diameter, etc. The 1/4 20 bolts in there now are a real pain, can barely get
an open end wrench on the heads.
Next, I am using some putty stuck to the strike to try and dial things in,
anybody have any suggestions for the easy way to make this work? It seems
clear that I will need to make some shims, any suggestions on what thickness
to start with?

Hope I am being clear, and thanks in advance
Cheers, Alan

From hubrick at gmail.com  Fri Nov  4 15:35:13 2011
From: hubrick at gmail.com (Rick Huber)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 17:35:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer quit
Message-ID: <CAPVcQafKKHQyKkh-CtEwUV-Km8r=5=Wr9AEd-ksyR+2v=9dJEA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Guys,
Any quick fix for a tachometer that dropped to zero while driving one day
and never has moved again.  All connections on the back of the gauge are
clean, tight. I have a Phase I BJ8.
Cheers,
Rick Huber

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Nov  4 16:13:54 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 19:13:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trunk latch ???
In-Reply-To: <506D830C3AD847C78DF6A385F05261FA@AlanPC>
References: <506D830C3AD847C78DF6A385F05261FA@AlanPC>
Message-ID: <03b501cc9b47$6c767e70$45637b50$@verizon.net>

According to my original parts manual they are part number CMZ0412 which
translates to Phillips head Countersunk machine screw 1/4" diameter 3/4"
long with UNF   thread along with the appropriate washer, lock washer and
nut.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Grossman
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 3:59 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Trunk latch ???

Hi,
Still trying to improve a few things on the '58 BN4 I acquired recently.
So the car came with a new trunk w/strip, that appears to be correct. I
glued it to the lid, big hump to the outside (per moss catalog) and as
expected I need to rework the latch/strike relationship.

First, what are the correct machine screws to attach latch to lid? Head
shape, diameter, etc. The 1/4 20 bolts in there now are a real pain, can
barely get an open end wrench on the heads.
Next, I am using some putty stuck to the strike to try and dial things in,
anybody have any suggestions for the easy way to make this work? It seems
clear that I will need to make some shims, any suggestions on what thickness
to start with?

Hope I am being clear, and thanks in advance Cheers, Alan
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  4 21:46:21 2011
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 21:46:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
In-Reply-To: <20111104112657.2LHK2.468418.root@pamxwww10-z01>
References: <E7BBD647-1E29-4B2E-9F28-1018468327CE@att.net>
	<20111104112657.2LHK2.468418.root@pamxwww10-z01>
Message-ID: <1320468381.98375.YahooMailNeo@web36705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If have a pertronix for sale for the 100-4 positive ground, brand new, never
used.
LU149 P12 - BN1 Chassis 230361 and up, BN2 (later model distributor)
Contact me off list if interested,  I will make a good deal for listers.

Bert

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sat Nov  5 08:06:40 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 08:06:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
Message-ID: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>

Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I bought a
bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a British
car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store. I'll
have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
Rich Kahn

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  5 09:49:02 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 09:49:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
Message-ID: <1320511742.17796.YahooMailClassic@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Richard; This article from the Rocky Mountain AHC may be of some help. 
I downloaded it from  http://www.rmahc.com/brakes.html  a few years ago.

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada         - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Sat, 11/5/11, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:


From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Received: Saturday, November 5, 2011, 11:06 AM


Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I bought a
bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a British
car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store. I'll
have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Brake]

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat Nov  5 10:18:17 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 10:18:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYqkWnXSt8muo3dfQdhwX4H8Nu+B0yKnPEVqaUPqQcHa6Q@mail.gmail.com>

"They figured that a British
car would have metric. "
Don't trust their advice. They don't know shit.
Not one single original metric nut,bolt.screw on out LBCs.
Some strange Whitworth yes, metric no way!!
Brake fittings are standard sized....

On Sat, Nov 5, 2011 at 8:06 AM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I bought
> a
> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a British
> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store. I'll
> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Nov  5 11:33:49 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 19:33:49 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl>

An old British car with metric thread. Even today they don't know what 
metric is. Do NAPA know where or what Great Britain is? How stupid can 
you get?
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 5-11-2011 16:06, Richard Kahn schreef:
> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I bought a
> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a British
> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store. I'll
> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4596 - datum van uitgifte: 11/04/11

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Nov  5 13:06:04 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 16:06:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <002f01cc9bf6$5975e360$0c61aa20$@verizon.net>

That's OK. I can not tell you how many Pep Boys I have been in trying to
find 30wt ND oil only to be told each and every time at each and every store
that such oil has not been produced for at least 10 years. I even bought
some recently at an Advance Auto Parts and took a can to my local Pep Boys,
showed it to the manager who told me that the can must be mislabeled.

Needless to say, I never buy anything there -- just go in to taunt them when
I feel a little dicey. Unfortunately, they hire clerks -- not automotive
people.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 2:34 PM
To: Richard Kahn
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?

An old British car with metric thread. Even today they don't know what
metric is. Do NAPA know where or what Great Britain is? How stupid can you
get?
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 5-11-2011 16:06, Richard Kahn schreef:
> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I
> bought a bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured
> that a British car would have metric.  One more delay with another
> trip to the store. I'll have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  5 13:06:15 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 13:06:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals Not Working
Message-ID: <1320523575.96678.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

1963 BJ7 stock wiring.  Turn signals worked fine when I got my inspection
sticker, then stopped.  All four lights are not working.  Sidelamps and brake
lights work.  When I move the directional lever on the trafficator, I can hear
a click from the flasher relay at the left front fender.  Replaced the Lucas
flasher can with a NAPA 550, still not working. Dash indicator does not work 
Any thoughts where to look next?

Thanks in advance,



Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From healeymnster at gmail.com  Sat Nov  5 13:16:13 2011
From: healeymnster at gmail.com (Ed Townley)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 14:16:13 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Morgan (was petronix)
Message-ID: <CANAtPAzN1gnU3WDzrEG13Eac3LYmF_BEeteF5L6zf1o7eMBshQ@mail.gmail.com>

Jim:  recently helped a friend with a morgan that sputtered and popped
really bad,--this was a "totally" restored, beautiful example of a 59
morgan, that had never run properly since my friend purchased it.---long
story short, we finally discovered that two lower nuts on intake manifold
were missing (hard to see, and even harder to reach under the carbs) so,
even though the top row of nuts were torqued (probably too) tight, the
lower side of manifold was "sucking"--might be worth checking
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA

From: <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
Message-ID: <20111103031856.14355.qmail at server278.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

want to help a guy in our club with a morgan that has a "missing and
sputtering" problem.  he has a petronix in it and i know nothing about
these things.  what should i be looking for.  suspected a coil and had it
replaced, but did not solve problem.   will naturally check carbs, etc.,
but suspect ignition as car apparently starts and runs ok until it warms
up.  any help appreciated as i will be "flying blind" here.

From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Sat Nov  5 13:29:04 2011
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:29:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com>

Kees,

Why would you expect someone in their 20's or 30's (i.e., people who weren't
even born when our LBC's stopped being made) should know anything other than
metric?  Not so stupid, just a different era.  Those of us with these cars
should know what to ask for.

Larry Swift

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 2:34 PM
To: Richard Kahn
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?

An old British car with metric thread. Even today they don't know what 
metric is. Do NAPA know where or what Great Britain is? How stupid can 
you get?
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 5-11-2011 16:06, Richard Kahn schreef:
> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I bought
a
> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
British
> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store.
I'll
> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4596 - datum van uitgifte:
11/04/11
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sat Nov  5 13:33:16 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 20:33:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY168-W103D47CF2C18B49387F8EE7C0DB0@phx.gbl>

When these clowns at the parts stores try to tell me that our British cars are
metric, I ask them who they think gave America its English language and the
inch system.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 08:06:40 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>
> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I bought
a
> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a British
> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store. I'll
> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Nov  5 13:37:59 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 21:37:59 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <002f01cc9bf6$5975e360$0c61aa20$@verizon.net>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl>
	<002f01cc9bf6$5975e360$0c61aa20$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4EB59EA7.3080907@chello.nl>

We dearly miss that pensioner with a fag in the corner of his mouth, 
greasy cap on his head, dirty finger nails, who did not know any part 
number and did not need any cross references but knew instantly what you 
wanted and on which shelve it was.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 5-11-2011 21:06, John Sims schreef:
> That's OK. I can not tell you how many Pep Boys I have been in trying to
> find 30wt ND oil only to be told each and every time at each and every store
> that such oil has not been produced for at least 10 years. I even bought
> some recently at an Advance Auto Parts and took a can to my local Pep Boys,
> showed it to the manager who told me that the can must be mislabeled.
>
> Needless to say, I never buy anything there -- just go in to taunt them when
> I feel a little dicey. Unfortunately, they hire clerks -- not automotive
> people.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>   
> http://www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Oudesluys
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 2:34 PM
> To: Richard Kahn
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>
> An old British car with metric thread. Even today they don't know what
> metric is. Do NAPA know where or what Great Britain is? How stupid can you
>
> get?
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 5-11-2011 16:06, Richard Kahn schreef:
>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I
>> bought a bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured
>> that a British car would have metric.  One more delay with another
>> trip to the store. I'll have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>> Rich Kahn
>> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4598 - datum van uitgifte: 11/05/11

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Nov  5 13:41:58 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 21:41:58 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl> <000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com>
Message-ID: <4EB59F96.2080502@chello.nl>

Those someones should sell bits and pieces they know nothing about. If 
you sell whatever you sell you have to know the basics of the goods. 
Anyway since when are they doing metric in the US?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 5-11-2011 21:29, Team.net schreef:
> Kees,
>
> Why would you expect someone in their 20's or 30's (i.e., people who weren't
> even born when our LBC's stopped being made) should know anything other than
> metric?  Not so stupid, just a different era.  Those of us with these cars
> should know what to ask for.
>
> Larry Swift
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Oudesluys
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 2:34 PM
> To: Richard Kahn
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>
> An old British car with metric thread. Even today they don't know what
> metric is. Do NAPA know where or what Great Britain is? How stupid can
> you get?
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 5-11-2011 16:06, Richard Kahn schreef:
>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I bought
> a
>> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
> British
>> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store.
> I'll
>> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>> Rich Kahn
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4596 - datum van uitgifte:
> 11/04/11
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4598 - datum van uitgifte: 11/05/11

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Nov  5 16:23:48 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:23:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <4EB59F96.2080502@chello.nl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl> <000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com>
	<4EB59F96.2080502@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <12A75CCE-A74B-41EA-880B-3BC182211F4F@gmail.com>

I would just like to point out that post 1967 LBCs went metric. So you just
might want to cut the parts guy who quite likely not alive when you car was
built just a bit of slack.
$.02

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 5, 2011, at 13:41, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Those someones should sell bits and pieces they know nothing about. If you
sell whatever you sell you have to know the basics of the goods. Anyway since
when are they doing metric in the US?
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 5-11-2011 21:29, Team.net schreef:
>> Kees,
>>
>> Why would you expect someone in their 20's or 30's (i.e., people who
weren't
>> even born when our LBC's stopped being made) should know anything other
than
>> metric?  Not so stupid, just a different era.  Those of us with these cars
>> should know what to ask for.
>>
>> Larry Swift
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Oudesluys
>> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 2:34 PM
>> To: Richard Kahn
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>>
>> An old British car with metric thread. Even today they don't know what
>> metric is. Do NAPA know where or what Great Britain is? How stupid can
>> you get?
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>> Op 5-11-2011 16:06, Richard Kahn schreef:
>>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I
bought
>> a
>>> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
>> British
>>> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store.
>> I'll
>>> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>>> Rich Kahn
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>
>>> -----
>>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4596 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 11/04/11
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4598 - datum van uitgifte:
11/05/11
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Nov  5 16:25:05 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:25:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals Not Working
In-Reply-To: <1320523575.96678.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1320535505.66036.YahooMailClassic@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Replacing the flasher unit was the final insult for your British car.  What's
next, Stewart Warner gauges? ;^)

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
02 Heritage Springer

--- On Sat, 11/5/11, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

 Replaced the Lucas
flasher can with a NAPA 550, still not working. Dash indicator does not work
Any thoughts where to look next?

Thanks in advance,



Rick

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  5 16:44:25 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:44:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals Not Working
In-Reply-To: <1320535505.66036.YahooMailClassic@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1320536665.28347.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Mike,

You misunderstand.  I did a quick and dirty NAPA change of the flasher can to
see if that was the problem.  If so, I would have replaced it with a genuine
Lucas.  I'm trying to do my swap with the least amount of modification
possible.  I have to say, though, after a few miles of sea trials I'm thrilled
about the motor change.  It totally transforms the Healey into a high
performance sports car. 

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 11/5/11, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signals Not Working
To: healeys at autox.team.net, "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Date: Saturday, November 5, 2011, 7:25 PM

Replacing the flasher unit was the final insult for your British car.  What's
next, Stewart Warner gauges? ;^)

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
02 Heritage Springer

--- On Sat, 11/5/11, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

 Replaced the Lucas
flasher can with a NAPA 550, still not working. Dash indicator does not work
Any thoughts where to look next?

Thanks in advance,



Rick

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Nov  5 17:17:24 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 20:17:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <12A75CCE-A74B-41EA-880B-3BC182211F4F@gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl> <000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com>
	<4EB59F96.2080502@chello.nl>
	<12A75CCE-A74B-41EA-880B-3BC182211F4F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc9c19$75ca7620$615f6260$@rr.com>

My 1973 MG Midget, which is of the LBC persuasion, is not metric.  My
neighbor's 1979 Triumph Spitfire is also not metric.  However, all cars
built in the USA have been metric for as long as instrument panel gauges,
knobs, and switches have had icons and not English words.

To be fair to the parts clerks, most of them never see anyone looking for
old British car parts and they are too young to have any personal knowledge
of the cars.  I ordered front brake pads for my BJ8 over the phone last week
from my local Autozone store.  When I called to see if the order was in yet,
I told the clerk it was for an "Austin-Healey".  After checking, he said
they had no order listed under my name.  I asked what name that was, since I
hadn't told them my name.  Yes, you did, he said.  What name was that?
"Austin Healey".

Sent from my PC

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 7:24 PM
To: Oudesluys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?

I would just like to point out that post 1967 LBCs went metric. So you just
might want to cut the parts guy who quite likely not alive when you car was
built just a bit of slack.
$.02

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 5, 2011, at 13:41, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Those someones should sell bits and pieces they know nothing about. If you
sell whatever you sell you have to know the basics of the goods. Anyway
since
when are they doing metric in the US?
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Nov  5 17:27:15 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 20:27:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer quit
In-Reply-To: <CAPVcQafKKHQyKkh-CtEwUV-Km8r=5=Wr9AEd-ksyR+2v=9dJEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPVcQafKKHQyKkh-CtEwUV-Km8r=5=Wr9AEd-ksyR+2v=9dJEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000201cc9c1a$d60bc4c0$82234e40$@rr.com>

Rick, if your fuel gauge is working, then you should have 12 volts on the
green wire to the back of the tach (since it's the same wire).  If the tach
ground connection is also secure, how about the white wire with the loop on
the back of the tach?  Is it connected to the ignition switch and to the
coil?  If all that checks out, I would say you have an internal tach problem
and it should be repaired by Nisongers, Mo Ma, West Valley Instruments, etc.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rick Huber
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 6:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer quit

Hi Guys,
Any quick fix for a tachometer that dropped to zero while driving one day
and never has moved again.  All connections on the back of the gauge are
clean, tight. I have a Phase I BJ8.
Cheers,
Rick Huber

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Nov  5 17:56:09 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 08:56:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals Not Working
In-Reply-To: <1320536665.28347.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1320535505.66036.YahooMailClassic@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<1320536665.28347.YahooMailClassic@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKML5+hoT=nPUZd+vQDxoTSjLOBL83JoDUVL9zmP9D7aQ@mail.gmail.com>

Rick -

Sounds to me you should break open your flasher relay and file the contacts.

Alan

On 11/6/11, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Mike,
>
> You misunderstand.  I did a quick and dirty NAPA change of the flasher can
> to
> see if that was the problem.  If so, I would have replaced it with a genuine
> Lucas.  I'm trying to do my swap with the least amount of modification
> possible.  I have to say, though, after a few miles of sea trials I'm
> thrilled
> about the motor change.  It totally transforms the Healey into a high
> performance sports car.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sat, 11/5/11, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signals Not Working
> To: healeys at autox.team.net, "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> Date: Saturday, November 5, 2011, 7:25 PM
>
> Replacing the flasher unit was the final insult for your British car.
> What's
> next, Stewart Warner gauges? ;^)
>
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
> 02 Heritage Springer
>
> --- On Sat, 11/5/11, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>  Replaced the Lucas
> flasher can with a NAPA 550, still not working. Dash indicator does not work
> Any thoughts where to look next?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Nov  5 18:57:10 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 09:57:10 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <000001cc9c19$75ca7620$615f6260$@rr.com>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl> <000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com>
	<4EB59F96.2080502@chello.nl>
	<12A75CCE-A74B-41EA-880B-3BC182211F4F@gmail.com>
	<000001cc9c19$75ca7620$615f6260$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKYwU-oSMK2PPBU4ikXmHmRn1WsakfQc9U36Me2=Y_ooA@mail.gmail.com>

Luckily in California, with all the old cars around, there are a few
places like NAPA where some of the clerks still know what you are
talking about....

On 11/6/11, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> My 1973 MG Midget, which is of the LBC persuasion, is not metric.  My
> neighbor's 1979 Triumph Spitfire is also not metric.  However, all cars
> built in the USA have been metric for as long as instrument panel gauges,
> knobs, and switches have had icons and not English words.
>
> To be fair to the parts clerks, most of them never see anyone looking for
> old British car parts and they are too young to have any personal knowledge
> of the cars.  I ordered front brake pads for my BJ8 over the phone last week
> from my local Autozone store.  When I called to see if the order was in yet,
> I told the clerk it was for an "Austin-Healey".  After checking, he said
> they had no order listed under my name.  I asked what name that was, since I
> hadn't told them my name.  Yes, you did, he said.  What name was that?
> "Austin Healey".
>
> Sent from my PC
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 7:24 PM
> To: Oudesluys
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>
> I would just like to point out that post 1967 LBCs went metric. So you just
> might want to cut the parts guy who quite likely not alive when you car was
> built just a bit of slack.
> $.02
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 5, 2011, at 13:41, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Those someones should sell bits and pieces they know nothing about. If you
> sell whatever you sell you have to know the basics of the goods. Anyway
> since
> when are they doing metric in the US?
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sat Nov  5 20:46:28 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 19:46:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] master cylinder fitting
Message-ID: <COL121-W50E116E9D6934C3E7A6D23A4D80@phx.gbl>

Well, the Napa guys tried the "standard" fittngs into  my old master cylinder
and the larger one worked on the forward opening but none of the other sizes
fit the rear opening. Now I am at a  loss for ideas.
Rich Kahn

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sat Nov  5 22:28:39 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 21:28:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder again
Message-ID: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>

Old fittings fit new master cylinder. I cannot be the only one who is having
this problem. I'm at the point where I will by pass the bench bleeding. What
do the restoration shops do? I've worked on LBCs  since the 70's and have
always been able to get around the these things. This one just has me
frustrated.
Rich Kahn

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov  5 22:37:20 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 22:37:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder again
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4EB61D10.1030907@comcast.net>

When I bench bleed, I just (carefully) pour fluid into the inlet port and (gently) pump the pushrod until nothing but 
fluid comes out the outlet port.

Am I not making this complicated enough?

Bob


On 11/5/2011 10:28 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> Old fittings fit new master cylinder. I cannot be the only one who is having
> this problem. I'm at the point where I will by pass the bench bleeding. What
> do the restoration shops do? I've worked on LBCs  since the 70's and have
> always been able to get around the these things. This one just has me
> frustrated.
> Rich Kahn
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov  6 01:55:53 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2011 09:55:53 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <12A75CCE-A74B-41EA-880B-3BC182211F4F@gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl> <000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com>
	<4EB59F96.2080502@chello.nl>
	<12A75CCE-A74B-41EA-880B-3BC182211F4F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EB64B99.9090507@chello.nl>

I have had several LBC's from the 60'2 and 70'2 but none had metric 
bolts and nuts except the Lotus engine in the Jensen Healey. The rest of 
that car has UNF, UNC, BSF and what have you. Maybe Vauxhall had some 
metric threads after 19?? but that was basicallly Opel and later on only 
rebadged Opels build in Germany.
Perhaps you are confused with the UK currency. That went metric to some 
extend around that date I believe.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 6-11-2011 0:23, Richard Ewald schreef:
> I would just like to point out that post 1967 LBCs went metric. So you just might want to cut the parts guy who quite likely not alive when you car was built just a bit of slack.
> $.02
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 5, 2011, at 13:41, Oudesluys<coudesluijs at chello.nl>  wrote:
>
>> Those someones should not sell bits and pieces they know nothing about. If you sell whatever you sell you have to know the basics of the goods. Anyway since when are they doing metric in the US?
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
>> Op 5-11-2011 21:29, Team.net schreef:
>>> Kees,
>>>
>>> Why would you expect someone in their 20's or 30's (i.e., people who weren't
>>> even born when our LBC's stopped being made) should know anything other than
>>> metric?  Not so stupid, just a different era.  Those of us with these cars
>>> should know what to ask for.
>>>
>>> Larry Swift
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> On Behalf Of Oudesluys
>>> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 2:34 PM
>>> To: Richard Kahn
>>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>>>
>>> An old British car with metric thread. Even today they don't know what
>>> metric is. Do NAPA know where or what Great Britain is? How stupid can
>>> you get?
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>> Op 5-11-2011 16:06, Richard Kahn schreef:
>>>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I bought
>>> a
>>>> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
>>> British
>>>> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the store.
>>> I'll
>>>> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>>>> Rich Kahn
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>> -----
>>>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>>>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>>>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4596 - datum van uitgifte:
>>> 11/04/11
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4598 - datum van uitgifte: 11/05/11
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4599 - datum van uitgifte: 11/05/11

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Nov  6 08:56:57 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 09:56:57 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <4EB64B99.9090507@chello.nl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl><4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl>
	<000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com><4EB59F96.2080502@chello.nl><12A75CCE-A74B-41EA-880B-3BC182211F4F@gmail.com>
	<4EB64B99.9090507@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CD8B6A46ACB644C9A7CA440B8FEEBF4D@GregPC>

My '68 TR250 does not have any metric fittings, later TR6s do have metric 
fittings on the brake calipers, I am not aware of them having them anywhere 
else.

The British must have embraced metric conversion with the same enthusiasm we 
did in the states.   I have no idea what is on newer Jaguars and Land Rovers 
and such.

Yes the parts counter guys ask "isn't that metric?"  I suppose because all 
the foreign cars they are normally exposed to are metric.

I do get a kick out of when I tell them I have a '54 Austin Healey or a '68 
Triumph or whatever, and the first question is "who makes those?"

I do miss the shops with the old timers that actually knew about what they 
were selling, no parts shops around here like that anymore, all the chain 
stores put them out of business.  If you don't have a year make and model to 
match it to on the computer the part might as well not be in the store.

Greg Lemon 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Nov  6 10:01:15 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2011 12:01:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <CD8B6A46ACB644C9A7CA440B8FEEBF4D@GregPC>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl><4EB5818D.3010405@chello.nl>
	<000301cc9bf9$909ad550$b1d07ff0$@com><4EB59F96.2080502@chello.nl><12A75CCE-A74B-41EA-880B-3BC182211F4F@gmail.com>
	<4EB64B99.9090507@chello.nl> <CD8B6A46ACB644C9A7CA440B8FEEBF4D@GregPC>
Message-ID: <006c01cc9ca5$b2a582b0$17f08810$@verizon.net>

I agree with the fact that if you do not specify a make and year, you might
as well not even search. I have had correspondence with the executive
offices of both Lowes and Home Depot because their web sites insist on
having you pick a specific store to see if they have an item in stock. The
response is always along the lines of "we want to serve you better by
directing you to the closest store. BS. I have three that are all
equidistant from my home so in order to not go through their nonsense, I go
to the nearest True Value. Might pay a little more but it is worth it. Also,
I have an independent auto parts store who has my business because if he
does not stock an item, he knows where to get it on special order. Try
asking a Pep Boys to do that and you have to explain what special order is.

Enough soapbox, the 49ers are about to come on.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 10:57 AM
To: Oudesluys; Richard Ewald
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?

My '68 TR250 does not have any metric fittings, later TR6s do have metric
fittings on the brake calipers, I am not aware of them having them anywhere
else.

The British must have embraced metric conversion with the same enthusiasm we

did in the states.   I have no idea what is on newer Jaguars and Land Rovers

and such.

Yes the parts counter guys ask "isn't that metric?"  I suppose because all
the foreign cars they are normally exposed to are metric.

I do get a kick out of when I tell them I have a '54 Austin Healey or a '68
Triumph or whatever, and the first question is "who makes those?"

I do miss the shops with the old timers that actually knew about what they
were selling, no parts shops around here like that anymore, all the chain
stores put them out of business.  If you don't have a year make and model to
match it to on the computer the part might as well not be in the store.

Greg Lemon
_______________________________________________

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  6 11:09:32 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 10:09:32 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] great parts store
Message-ID: <CACPMnYqPWGfndk6LU4kZexkO+pfeoVgWkZ_ddMH5x5cD5LufBw@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.allcarparts.calls.net/    All Car Parts
For those of you who live in the San Fernando Valley area north of LA, and *he
does mail order.*
Call Bill and tell him you know me. I worked with him over 30 years ago
when I put myself through college working in the parts biz. Ho owns
Healeys, he is a LBC lover an his staff knows what they are doing.
NFI. I just know they are type of people and would never suggest your
Healey has metric....
When I'm down visiting family I always stop in the talk with them.
They have a decent NOS inventory too.

-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From rjh.co at tx.rr.com  Sun Nov  6 11:22:51 2011
From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (Richard J. Hockert)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 12:22:51 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder again
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000f01cc9cb1$18833c20$4989b460$@tx.rr.com>

You can get everything that you need here:

http://goodridge.brakes-hoses-fittings.co.uk/fittings-accessories.htm

Best regards,
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 12:29 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder again

Old fittings fit new master cylinder. I cannot be the only one who is having
this problem. I'm at the point where I will by pass the bench bleeding. What
do the restoration shops do? I've worked on LBCs  since the 70's and have
always been able to get around the these things. This one just has me
frustrated.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjh.co at tx.rr.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Nov  6 12:42:26 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 11:42:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder again
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL121-W2111C96D1505D6132E0D90A4D80@phx.gbl>

I went to an O'Reilly this morning and they had a bleeding kit with a dozen
sizes of fittings. We opened it and I got a fit. They didn't know what a
master cylinder bleeding kit was and this was the only one they had and it was
stuffed in the back of the shelf. It was left over from when they were a
Kragen store. They weren't much help but my wife spotted it. So, we are good
to go (or should I say stop).
Thanks for all the help and for putting up with my ranting.
Rich Kahn

> From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 21:28:39 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder again
>
> Old fittings fit new master cylinder. I cannot be the only one who is
having
> this problem. I'm at the point where I will by pass the bench bleeding.
What
> do the restoration shops do? I've worked on LBCs  since the 70's and have
> always been able to get around the these things. This one just has me
> frustrated.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

From robertlarson at att.net  Sun Nov  6 14:31:01 2011
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2011 16:31:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder again
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W2111C96D1505D6132E0D90A4D80@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>
	<COL121-W2111C96D1505D6132E0D90A4D80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4EB6FC95.6070902@att.net>

Did you wife get a job offer?

Sounds like they should hire her as manager.

Bob

On 11/6/2011 2:42 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> I went to an O'Reilly this morning and they had a bleeding kit with a dozen
> sizes of fittings. We opened it and I got a fit. They didn't know what a
> master cylinder bleeding kit was and this was the only one they had and it was
> stuffed in the back of the shelf. It was left over from when they were a
> Kragen store. They weren't much help but my wife spotted it. So, we are good
> to go (or should I say stop).
> Thanks for all the help and for putting up with my ranting.
> Rich Kahn

From ghess4 at cox.net  Sun Nov  6 16:03:20 2011
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 15:03:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Good Mechanic!!
Message-ID: <220CF333DF9049FABB7FCEE333BE85B3@GalePC>

Not a healey note but a great embodiment of the spirit that it takes to own
and enjoy a healey.http://tinyurl.com/3fcjsbd

Gale Hess

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Nov  6 17:10:57 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:10:57 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Good Mechanic!!
In-Reply-To: <220CF333DF9049FABB7FCEE333BE85B3@GalePC>
References: <220CF333DF9049FABB7FCEE333BE85B3@GalePC>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJg19BeSSsEGwNRvdty0O2VF+x1-6_cqU9aeKurrvyaYA@mail.gmail.com>

Well, when I'm 102 I'll probably want a 1930's Packard too, it has to be
just about the easiest car to get into!

On Mon, Nov 7, 2011 at 7:03 AM, Ghess4 <ghess4 at cox.net> wrote:

> Not a healey note but a great embodiment of the spirit that it takes to own
> and enjoy a healey.http://tinyurl.com/3fcjsbd
>
> Gale Hess

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Nov  6 19:14:07 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 18:14:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder again
In-Reply-To: <4EB6FC95.6070902@att.net>
References: <COL121-W59A29E211DB9A0128DF1A8A4D80@phx.gbl>
	<COL121-W2111C96D1505D6132E0D90A4D80@phx.gbl>,
	<4EB6FC95.6070902@att.net>
Message-ID: <COL121-W60CFC5913A2FAEDAFDA53AA4D90@phx.gbl>

She probably makes more than all their staff combined. She use to be an admin.
assistant in the engeneering dept at one of the major casino and knows her
hardware from all the inventory the did.

> Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 16:31:01 -0500
> From: robertlarson at att.net
> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder again
>
> Did you wife get a job offer?
>
> Sounds like they should hire her as manager.
>
> Bob
>
> On 11/6/2011 2:42 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> > I went to an O'Reilly this morning and they had a bleeding kit with a
dozen
> > sizes of fittings. We opened it and I got a fit. They didn't know what a
> > master cylinder bleeding kit was and this was the only one they had and it
was
> > stuffed in the back of the shelf. It was left over from when they were a
> > Kragen store. They weren't much help but my wife spotted it. So, we are
good
> > to go (or should I say stop).
> > Thanks for all the help and for putting up with my ranting.
> > Rich Kahn

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun Nov  6 20:11:12 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 03:11:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?good_mechanic?=
Message-ID: <20111107031112.25971.qmail@server278.com>

when i was about 10 years old my brother and i mowed the lawn for a neighbor who had a 1935 Packard V-12 coupe convertible.  he had been badly wounded on okinawa and could not drive it so it sat in their barn. we would sit in that car and pretend we could drive.  i cannot see a packard today what i do not think of that huge car.  hjim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Nov  6 22:53:16 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 13:53:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Just another unfortunate reminder - fire
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLXR5TDYKTiFSvPWaJU_28p6OsR08xGeV-bnbc0048bfg@mail.gmail.com>

Once you see smoke, first thing you do is shut off the battery switch THEN
use your extinguisher which you should have within reach.  On all my LBC
cars, I add a battery cutoff switch even if the car didn't have it to start
with.

It appears the owner of this Jag Mk II did not keep a fire extinguisher in
his car.

I would say most LBC fires I've ever seen are related to a short in the
wiring harness.  Even if it is a fuel system problem, shutting off the
battery switch will cut the circuit to the pump.

http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/a-few-old-flames-turn-up-to-mar-couples-big-day/story-e6frea6u-1226186723232

Alan

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sun Nov  6 23:34:56 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 16:34:56 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Just another unfortunate reminder - fire
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLXR5TDYKTiFSvPWaJU_28p6OsR08xGeV-bnbc0048bfg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkLXR5TDYKTiFSvPWaJU_28p6OsR08xGeV-bnbc0048bfg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9140DE47AE304D3F9F672CD4E306515F@Notebook>

Pity they opened the bonnet fully too - should have just cracked it enough 
to get the extinguisher nozzle in. Fire + air = more fire!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 3:53 PM
To: Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Just another unfortunate reminder - fire

Once you see smoke, first thing you do is shut off the battery switch THEN
use your extinguisher which you should have within reach.  On all my LBC
cars, I add a battery cutoff switch even if the car didn't have it to start
with.

It appears the owner of this Jag Mk II did not keep a fire extinguisher in
his car.

I would say most LBC fires I've ever seen are related to a short in the
wiring harness.  Even if it is a fuel system problem, shutting off the
battery switch will cut the circuit to the pump.

http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/a-few-old-flames-turn-up-to-mar-couples-big-day/story-e6frea6u-1226186723232

Alan
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Nov  7 01:15:36 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 16:15:36 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Just another unfortunate reminder - fire
In-Reply-To: <9140DE47AE304D3F9F672CD4E306515F@Notebook>
References: <CAFBXTkLXR5TDYKTiFSvPWaJU_28p6OsR08xGeV-bnbc0048bfg@mail.gmail.com>
	<9140DE47AE304D3F9F672CD4E306515F@Notebook>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKjmwr__3YVxU6e+qRdcsV38F8tG8xkwe+Nbcv=4J3wZg@mail.gmail.com>

I am sure the owner of the car service knows this, and his idiot driver was
clueless.  Of course, it would be his responsibility to train his driver
how to handle a situation like this.

On Mon, Nov 7, 2011 at 2:34 PM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>wrote:

> Pity they opened the bonnet fully too - should have just cracked it enough
> to get the extinguisher nozzle in. Fire + air = more fire!
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 3:53 PM
> To: Healey
> Subject: [Healeys] Just another unfortunate reminder - fire
>
>
> Once you see smoke, first thing you do is shut off the battery switch THEN
> use your extinguisher which you should have within reach.  On all my LBC
> cars, I add a battery cutoff switch even if the car didn't have it to start
> with.
>
> It appears the owner of this Jag Mk II did not keep a fire extinguisher in
> his car.
>
> I would say most LBC fires I've ever seen are related to a short in the
> wiring harness.  Even if it is a fuel system problem, shutting off the
> battery switch will cut the circuit to the pump.
>
> http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/**a-few-old-flames-turn-up-to-**
> mar-couples-big-day/story-**e6frea6u-1226186723232<http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/a-few-old-flames-turn-up-to-mar-couples-big-day/story-e6frea6u-1226186723232>
>
> Alan
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/greylinn@**ozemail.com.au<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au>

From daniel.ceccarelli at gmail.com  Mon Nov  7 02:04:30 2011
From: daniel.ceccarelli at gmail.com (Daniele Ceccarelli)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 10:04:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys]  Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
Message-ID: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello I'm a new member of mailing list. My name is Daniele and I'm
restoring an AH 3000 BT7 MKI of 1959.
Does anyone know if the pedal box was modified to install the HD6 carb
with thermo choke? I ask that because I can't install my carbs.  When
I disassemble the car I noticed that the pedal box in the point near
the rear carb was just a little bit bent by some hammer blow (see the
picture attach). During the body work we repair the pedal box but now
I can't install the carbs. You think I should bent the pedal box
again? Does anyone send me pictures of pedal box area of car with
thermo choke system?
Sorry for my terrible English.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 00047.jpg]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Nov  7 05:24:10 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 07:24:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
In-Reply-To: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cc9d48$27800810$76801830$@net>

Hello Daniele,

The pedal box area on your BT7 should not be different than other models
until they got to the BJ8 where they formed a bit more clearance for the air
filter of the bigger HD8 carbs.
If you have the stock twin carb HD6 setup with thermal choke arrangement,
there should be good clearance there when fitting things. If there is not, I
would suspect the engine mounts are either sagged and collapsed through age
or the engine mount assemblies may be reversed....left to right and right to
left. These are canted onto a slight angle and will certainly make a
difference how the engine sits in the engine bay.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Daniele Ceccarelli
Sent: 2011-11-07 4:05
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke

Hello I'm a new member of mailing list. My name is Daniele and I'm
restoring an AH 3000 BT7 MKI of 1959.
Does anyone know if the pedal box was modified to install the HD6 carb
with thermo choke? I ask that because I can't install my carbs.  When
I disassemble the car I noticed that the pedal box in the point near
the rear carb was just a little bit bent by some hammer blow (see the
picture attach). During the body work we repair the pedal box but now
I can't install the carbs. You think I should bent the pedal box
again? Does anyone send me pictures of pedal box area of car with
thermo choke system?
Sorry for my terrible English.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
00047.jpg]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 3000 Rdstr Detail 0030.jpg]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov  7 06:50:22 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 05:50:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
In-Reply-To: <000c01cc9d48$27800810$76801830$@net>
References: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>
	<000c01cc9d48$27800810$76801830$@net>
Message-ID: <4EB7E21E.5070508@comcast.net>

Hi Daniele,

Welcome to the 'Healey List.'  This is a great place to get info, share tricks and stories and, yes, even start an 
argument or two.

He's too much the gentleman--and too modest--to announce it, but Rich is an Austin-Healey restorer, a member of the 
Concours Committee and an expert on all things Austin-Healey.  Along with Curt Arndt, David Nock and several others, we 
have some real authorities on the List and any answer they give can be 'taken to the bank.'  The rest of us, well, we 
get lucky sometimes.

Oh, the List doesn't allow attachments, for security reasons.  If you want to send photos you'll need to send them 
directly to a member's email or, better yet, post them on a website (like Flickr or Picasa).

Cheers,
Bob


On 11/7/2011 4:24 AM, Rich C wrote:
> Hello Daniele,
>
> The pedal box area on your BT7 should not be different than other models
> until they got to the BJ8 where they formed a bit more clearance for the air
> filter of the bigger HD8 carbs.
> If you have the stock twin carb HD6 setup with thermal choke arrangement,
> there should be good clearance there when fitting things. If there is not, I
> would suspect the engine mounts are either sagged and collapsed through age
> or the engine mount assemblies may be reversed....left to right and right to
> left. These are canted onto a slight angle and will certainly make a
> difference how the engine sits in the engine bay.
>
> Rich
>
>
>
> Hello I'm a new member of mailing list. My name is Daniele and I'm
> restoring an AH 3000 BT7 MKI of 1959.
> Does anyone know if the pedal box was modified to install the HD6 carb
> with thermo choke? I ask that because I can't install my carbs.  When
> I disassemble the car I noticed that the pedal box in the point near
> the rear carb was just a little bit bent by some hammer blow (see the
> picture attach). During the body work we repair the pedal box but now
> I can't install the carbs. You think I should bent the pedal box
> again? Does anyone send me pictures of pedal box area of car with
> thermo choke system?
> Sorry for my terrible English.
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> 00047.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Nov  7 07:21:47 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 01:21:47 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
In-Reply-To: <000c01cc9d48$27800810$76801830$@net>
References: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>
	<000c01cc9d48$27800810$76801830$@net>
Message-ID: <3F573978-FB61-4CE9-87D3-F58012FBE5E8@gmail.com>

Of course, we (I'm using the the royal "we"), of the right hand drive  
persuasion, (the correct way these cars were designed and assembled),  
have no idea what you are talking about!!
There is no way that "we" can have our carbs interefere with "our"  
pedal boxes. And that's the way they were made.
Good clearance? Geez, they are on the other side of the engine!
At least they are in my Healey!
;-)
Ok?
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com


Sent from my iPhone

On 07/11/2011, at 11:24 PM, "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Hello Daniele,
>
> The pedal box area on your BT7 should not be different than other  
> models
> until they got to the BJ8 where they formed a bit more clearance for  
> the air
> filter of the bigger HD8 carbs.
> If you have the stock twin carb HD6 setup with thermal choke  
> arrangement,
> there should be good clearance there when fitting things. If there  
> is not, I
> would suspect the engine mounts are either sagged and collapsed  
> through age
> or the engine mount assemblies may be reversed....left to right and  
> right to
> left. These are canted onto a slight angle and will certainly make a
> difference how the engine sits in the engine bay.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Daniele Ceccarelli
> Sent: 2011-11-07 4:05
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
>
> Hello I'm a new member of mailing list. My name is Daniele and I'm
> restoring an AH 3000 BT7 MKI of 1959.
> Does anyone know if the pedal box was modified to install the HD6 carb
> with thermo choke? I ask that because I can't install my carbs.  When
> I disassemble the car I noticed that the pedal box in the point near
> the rear carb was just a little bit bent by some hammer blow (see the
> picture attach). During the body work we repair the pedal box but now
> I can't install the carbs. You think I should bent the pedal box
> again? Does anyone send me pictures of pedal box area of car with
> thermo choke system?
> Sorry for my terrible English.
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a  
> name of
> 00047.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a  
> name of 3000 Rdstr Detail 0030.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 09:10:21 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:10:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E8870F10-2AD8-4829-883F-79D6CA17A256@sbcglobal.net>

NO British cars used Metrics until the Jaguars  in the mid 80s.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 5, 2011, at 8:06 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:

> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I  
> bought a
> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a  
> British
> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the  
> store. I'll
> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Nov  7 09:24:55 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 11:24:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
In-Reply-To: <3F573978-FB61-4CE9-87D3-F58012FBE5E8@gmail.com>
References: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>
	<000c01cc9d48$27800810$76801830$@net>
	<3F573978-FB61-4CE9-87D3-F58012FBE5E8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cc9d69$c9772f60$5c658e20$@net>

Ah, Chris, but the diagonal steel gusseting that contains the pedal boxes
for either right or left hand drive cars are the same and that's what is
causing close clearance for Daniele.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] 
Sent: 2011-11-07 9:22
To: Rich C
Cc: Daniele Ceccarelli; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke

Of course, we (I'm using the the royal "we"), of the right hand drive  
persuasion, (the correct way these cars were designed and assembled),  
have no idea what you are talking about!!
There is no way that "we" can have our carbs interefere with "our"  
pedal boxes. And that's the way they were made.
Good clearance? Geez, they are on the other side of the engine!
At least they are in my Healey!
;-)
Ok?
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com


Sent from my iPhone

On 07/11/2011, at 11:24 PM, "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Hello Daniele,
>
> The pedal box area on your BT7 should not be different than other  
> models
> until they got to the BJ8 where they formed a bit more clearance for  
> the air
> filter of the bigger HD8 carbs.
> If you have the stock twin carb HD6 setup with thermal choke  
> arrangement,
> there should be good clearance there when fitting things. If there  
> is not, I
> would suspect the engine mounts are either sagged and collapsed  
> through age
> or the engine mount assemblies may be reversed....left to right and  
> right to
> left. These are canted onto a slight angle and will certainly make a
> difference how the engine sits in the engine bay.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Daniele Ceccarelli
> Sent: 2011-11-07 4:05
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
>
> Hello I'm a new member of mailing list. My name is Daniele and I'm
> restoring an AH 3000 BT7 MKI of 1959.
> Does anyone know if the pedal box was modified to install the HD6 carb
> with thermo choke? I ask that because I can't install my carbs.  When
> I disassemble the car I noticed that the pedal box in the point near
> the rear carb was just a little bit bent by some hammer blow (see the
> picture attach). During the body work we repair the pedal box but now
> I can't install the carbs. You think I should bent the pedal box
> again? Does anyone send me pictures of pedal box area of car with
> thermo choke system?
> Sorry for my terrible English.
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a  
> name of
> 00047.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a  
> name of 3000 Rdstr Detail 0030.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 09:27:25 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:27:25 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
In-Reply-To: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <872C5E64-895E-4B12-8D18-4B70E8D5CAEF@sbcglobal.net>

The pedal boxes on the 6 cylinder cars are all the same except for  
the small cut out to make room for the air filter on the BJ8 when  
they changed to the HD8 carbs





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 7, 2011, at 1:04 AM, Daniele Ceccarelli wrote:

> Hello I'm a new member of mailing list. My name is Daniele and I'm
> restoring an AH 3000 BT7 MKI of 1959.
> Does anyone know if the pedal box was modified to install the HD6 carb
> with thermo choke? I ask that because I can't install my carbs.  When
> I disassemble the car I noticed that the pedal box in the point near
> the rear carb was just a little bit bent by some hammer blow (see the
> picture attach). During the body work we repair the pedal box but now
> I can't install the carbs. You think I should bent the pedal box
> again? Does anyone send me pictures of pedal box area of car with
> thermo choke system?
> Sorry for my terrible English.
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a  
> name of 00047.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 09:30:06 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:30:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer quit
In-Reply-To: <CAPVcQafKKHQyKkh-CtEwUV-Km8r=5=Wr9AEd-ksyR+2v=9dJEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPVcQafKKHQyKkh-CtEwUV-Km8r=5=Wr9AEd-ksyR+2v=9dJEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <27843406-789E-4B5E-BBB4-31E09BE0C2C1@sbcglobal.net>

If the green wire to the tach has power and there is still a good  
ground then the only thing that can go wrong is internal of the tach.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 4, 2011, at 3:35 PM, Rick Huber wrote:

> Hi Guys,
> Any quick fix for a tachometer that dropped to zero while driving  
> one day
> and never has moved again.  All connections on the back of the  
> gauge are
> clean, tight. I have a Phase I BJ8.
> Cheers,
> Rick Huber
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 09:34:16 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:34:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Valve Cover
In-Reply-To: <1320165579.36338.YahooMailNeo@web84003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1320165579.36338.YahooMailNeo@web84003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E434233A-ECA2-4568-92FA-8D85551815F8@sbcglobal.net>

Martin, we have used valve covers in stock




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 1, 2011, at 9:39 AM, Martin's wrote:

> I am looking for a stock valve cover and cap for my '66 BJ8.  The  
> previous
> owner replaced the original with an aftermarket one.  It needs a  
> new cap and
> we can't locate one that will fit so we are going to go back to  
> stock.  Please
> reply off-list.
> Thanks, Kathy Martin
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From agrossman at pacific.net  Mon Nov  7 11:00:07 2011
From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 10:00:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <E8870F10-2AD8-4829-883F-79D6CA17A256@sbcglobal.net>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<E8870F10-2AD8-4829-883F-79D6CA17A256@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <707016B19766437E8E93AC443D1E41C0@AlanPC>

Renault powered Lotus Europa? Just askin'

Cheers, Alan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?


> NO British cars used Metrics until the Jaguars  in the mid 80s.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Nov 5, 2011, at 8:06 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>
>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I
>> bought a
>> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
>> British
>> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the
>> store. I'll
>> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>> Rich Kahn
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net 

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Mon Nov  7 11:36:45 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 13:36:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <707016B19766437E8E93AC443D1E41C0@AlanPC>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<E8870F10-2AD8-4829-883F-79D6CA17A256@sbcglobal.net>
	<707016B19766437E8E93AC443D1E41C0@AlanPC>
Message-ID: <4EB8253D.4000704@comcast.net>

There may be some other cases where metric fasteners were used on 
vintage British cars.  The T series MGs had what was referred to as 
'French' metric thread forms on the engines and gearboxes.  This was 
because the tooling used for these was leftover French tooling and 
Nuffield/BMC elected to use the threads and put British Standard/ 
Whitworth heads on the bolts.  What I have found on my TD is that the 
French metric form is similar to fine thread metric.  I know that many 
years ago (early '70s), before metric fasteners were at all popular, I 
got some replacement bolts from a VW dealer.

On 11/7/2011 1:00 PM, Alan Grossman wrote:
> Renault powered Lotus Europa? Just askin'
>
> Cheers, Alan
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 8:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>
>
>> NO British cars used Metrics until the Jaguars  in the mid 80s.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> .
>> .
>>
>> On Nov 5, 2011, at 8:06 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>>
>>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I
>>> bought a
>>> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
>>> British
>>> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the
>>> store. I'll
>>> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>>> Rich Kahn
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Nov  7 11:38:50 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 19:38:50 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <707016B19766437E8E93AC443D1E41C0@AlanPC>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<E8870F10-2AD8-4829-883F-79D6CA17A256@sbcglobal.net>
	<707016B19766437E8E93AC443D1E41C0@AlanPC>
Message-ID: <4EB825BA.8090602@chello.nl>

Lotus is one of the exceptions as they used metric in their own engines 
from the 907 engine. Do not know if they used metric in the bodies.
Of course a Continental Europe (Renault France) produced engine had 
metric threads. Even long before the war there were very few exceptions 
to that.
Saab used a Triumph engine so I presume that the threads on those 
engines are not metric, however if these were produced in licence by 
Saab they might. Also Volvo may have used some UNF threads I believe.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 7-11-2011 19:00, Alan Grossman schreef:
> Renault powered Lotus Europa? Just askin'
>
> Cheers, Alan
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 8:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>
>
>> NO British cars used Metrics until the Jaguars  in the mid 80s.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> .
>> .
>>
>> On Nov 5, 2011, at 8:06 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>>
>>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I
>>> bought a
>>> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
>>> British
>>> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the
>>> store. I'll
>>> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>>> Rich Kahn
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4602 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 11/07/11

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 11:59:43 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 10:59:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <707016B19766437E8E93AC443D1E41C0@AlanPC>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<E8870F10-2AD8-4829-883F-79D6CA17A256@sbcglobal.net>
	<707016B19766437E8E93AC443D1E41C0@AlanPC>
Message-ID: <BF80759A-19CD-4FE6-886C-535D850E5983@sbcglobal.net>

I assume that there may be a couple of exceptions to those  
manufacturers that sourced engines out of country. But as far as the  
Lucas, Lockhead, Girling systems as well as all the BMC stuff up  
until the mid 80s Jaguar they used all BSF, BSW, UNF, UNC Threads  
along with some other real weird threads. BSP and a Bicycle thread.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 7, 2011, at 10:00 AM, Alan Grossman wrote:

> Renault powered Lotus Europa? Just askin'
>
> Cheers, Alan
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock"  
> <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 8:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>
>
>> NO British cars used Metrics until the Jaguars  in the mid 80s.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> .
>> .
>>
>> On Nov 5, 2011, at 8:06 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>>
>>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I
>>> bought a
>>> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
>>> British
>>> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the
>>> store. I'll
>>> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>>> Rich Kahn
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
>> agrossman at pacific.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From daniel.ceccarelli at gmail.com  Mon Nov  7 12:02:07 2011
From: daniel.ceccarelli at gmail.com (Daniele Ceccarelli)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 20:02:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Pedal box and HD6 thermo choke
In-Reply-To: <872C5E64-895E-4B12-8D18-4B70E8D5CAEF@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAJEqveiv29SwNC_Rrim8iciouxwUH+TpYYH5pgYUWjOoLMmFtA@mail.gmail.com>
	<872C5E64-895E-4B12-8D18-4B70E8D5CAEF@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAJEqvehZBqmPrVVWRTLX-N23bBziA=uDoBZq1pi9d7AeH=7y6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you very much for your warm welcome, how suggested by Rich in
the next days I'll check if the engine mounts are in the correct
position (left and right) because they are new . I'll send you a
picture of problem as soon as possible. To install the rear carb, the
engine should be higher than it is now. Then I should see if there are
problems with the front shroud and the hood.
Daniele

2011/11/7 David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>:
> The pedal boxes on the 6 cylinder cars are all the same except for the
small
> cut out to make room for the air filter on the BJ8 when they changed to the
> HD8 carbs
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
>
> British Car Specialists
>
> Stockton Ca 95205
>
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> .
>
> .
>
> On Nov 7, 2011, at 1:04 AM, Daniele Ceccarelli wrote:
>
> Hello I'm a new member of mailing list. My name is Daniele and I'm
> restoring an AH 3000 BT7 MKI of 1959.
> Does anyone know if the pedal box was modified to install the HD6 carb
> with thermo choke? I ask that because I can't install my carbs.  When
> I disassemble the car I noticed that the pedal box in the point near
> the rear carb was just a little bit bent by some hammer blow (see the
> picture attach). During the body work we repair the pedal box but now
> I can't install the carbs. You think I should bent the pedal box
> again? Does anyone send me pictures of pedal box area of car with
> thermo choke system?
> Sorry for my terrible English.
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> 00047.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From nconklin at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 12:34:56 2011
From: nconklin at sbcglobal.net (nconklin at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 11:34:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Metric Threads
Message-ID: <1320694496.82082.YahooMailClassic@web83708.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

British cars were using metric threads in the '70's, for example the TR's   7
and 8's sported a sticker warning the owner that the cars were equipped with
brake systems with metric thread.. Nick C.

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Mon Nov  7 12:39:58 2011
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 11:39:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] leak
Message-ID: <48A2826EC0EA4755BE3CFE29E5EF1B5E@Mike>

Need some opinions.  Have a brake fluid leak at a rear wheel.  Thought it was
the cylinder, but on inspection, it is leaking from the fitting.  It is not
leaking across the threads, but through the center of the fitting, coming out
where the brake line enters.  I super-cleaned everything, but still leaks.
Maybe the flare is damaged.  Any ideas?  Would it be worth just replacing the
brake line?  Is that available easily?  I'd rather not replace the cylinder,
of course, but maybe will have to.  Inconvenient not to have brakes.

Mike
BN2

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Mon Nov  7 12:40:18 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 14:40:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
In-Reply-To: <4EB825BA.8090602@chello.nl>
References: <COL121-W63AE05834C42846BA72414A4DB0@phx.gbl>
	<E8870F10-2AD8-4829-883F-79D6CA17A256@sbcglobal.net>
	<707016B19766437E8E93AC443D1E41C0@AlanPC> <4EB825BA.8090602@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4EB83422.9060304@comcast.net>

I have owned a few vintage Volvos (pre-early '70s) and they had mostly 
UNC threads with standard (to Americans) inch bolt heads.  These Volvos 
used Girling brakes in many cases and SU carbs.  Where they used ATE 
brakes and Bosch electrical components, they were metric.  Bodies, 
engines, gearboxes, rear axles, etc. were all UNC.  Many of the rear 
axles were by Dana, with similar ones used in Studebakers and Sunbeams.  
The earliest 1800s, of course, were built in the UK.
Charlie

On 11/7/2011 1:38 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
> Lotus is one of the exceptions as they used metric in their own 
> engines from the 907 engine. Do not know if they used metric in the 
> bodies.
> Of course a Continental Europe (Renault France) produced engine had 
> metric threads. Even long before the war there were very few 
> exceptions to that.
> Saab used a Triumph engine so I presume that the threads on those 
> engines are not metric, however if these were produced in licence by 
> Saab they might. Also Volvo may have used some UNF threads I believe.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 7-11-2011 19:00, Alan Grossman schreef:
>> Renault powered Lotus Europa? Just askin'
>>
>> Cheers, Alan
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock" 
>> <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>> To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
>> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 8:10 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master cylinder-Metric?
>>
>>
>>> NO British cars used Metrics until the Jaguars  in the mid 80s.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> David Nock
>>> British Car Specialists
>>> Stockton Ca 95205
>>> 209-948-8767
>>>
>>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>>> .
>>> .
>>>
>>> On Nov 5, 2011, at 8:06 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>>>
>>>> Are the fittings for the brake and clutch master cylinder metric? I
>>>> bought a
>>>> bench bleeding kit from Napa that does not fit. They figured that a
>>>> British
>>>> car would have metric.  One more delay with another trip to the
>>>> store. I'll
>>>> have to bring the old unit in for sizing.
>>>> Rich Kahn
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>>>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4602 - datum van uitgifte: 
>> 11/07/11
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov  7 13:23:00 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 20:23:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] OFF TOPIC: British Aviator
Message-ID: <2138473078.1568055.1320697380890.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I know there's some aviation buffs on here who might find this interesting: 

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/military-obituaries/naval-obituaries/8873213/Brigadier-General-Dick-Lord.html 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov  7 13:35:58 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 20:35:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] leak
In-Reply-To: <48A2826EC0EA4755BE3CFE29E5EF1B5E@Mike>
Message-ID: <1182172300.1568863.1320698158742.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My dad and I just dealt with a similar problem on his '46 Chevy 2-ton truck. Couldn't get a seal at the rear slave for nothing. 

Cylinder was freshly-rebuilt by Apple. Rebuild job was OK, but we ended up pulling the cylinder (no fun on one of the 4 rear wheels of a 2-ton). Upon close inspection, Dad found a tiny, hairline crack where the bleeder screw beds into the cylinder. Either the metal gave out from fatigue or the bleeder had been overtightened (or both). You could have a similar problem where the brake line connects or, as you suggested, the flare might be bad (cracked). Resist the temptation to crank down on the fitting, lest you end up with a similar crack in the cylinder. 

I think you have to pull the cylinder. The brake pipes are available, from the 'usual suspects' or Doug Reid, or you might have enough 'slack' in the pipe to just re-flare the end of the pipe (if it's a cracked flare). 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

Need some opinions. Have a brake fluid leak at a rear wheel. Thought it was 
the cylinder, but on inspection, it is leaking from the fitting. It is not 
leaking across the threads, but through the center of the fitting, coming out 
where the brake line enters. I super-cleaned everything, but still leaks. 
Maybe the flare is damaged. Any ideas? Would it be worth just replacing the 
brake line? Is that available easily? I'd rather not replace the cylinder, 
of course, but maybe will have to. Inconvenient not to have brakes. 

Mike 
BN2 
_______________________________________________ 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Nov  7 13:19:19 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 21:19:19 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] leak
In-Reply-To: <48A2826EC0EA4755BE3CFE29E5EF1B5E@Mike>
References: <48A2826EC0EA4755BE3CFE29E5EF1B5E@Mike>
Message-ID: <4EB83D47.2020506@chello.nl>

Just replace the complete brake line and fittings. Cheap and effective.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 7-11-2011 20:39, Mike Sinclair schreef:
> Need some opinions.  Have a brake fluid leak at a rear wheel.  Thought it was
> the cylinder, but on inspection, it is leaking from the fitting.  It is not
> leaking across the threads, but through the center of the fitting, coming out
> where the brake line enters.  I super-cleaned everything, but still leaks.
> Maybe the flare is damaged.  Any ideas?  Would it be worth just replacing the
> brake line?  Is that available easily?  I'd rather not replace the cylinder,
> of course, but maybe will have to.  Inconvenient not to have brakes.
>
> Mike
> BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4602 - datum van uitgifte: 11/07/11

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Nov  7 14:11:34 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 16:11:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] leak
In-Reply-To: <4EB83D47.2020506@chello.nl>
References: <48A2826EC0EA4755BE3CFE29E5EF1B5E@Mike>
	<4EB83D47.2020506@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <00ff01cc9d91$d4d32d50$7e7987f0$@verizon.net>

And you can get pre bent lines from Doug Reid (Mr. Finespanner) and at the
same time get a clutch slave cylinder extension. Sooner or later you will
have to bleed the clutch slave cylinder and it is a real pain in the
posterior if you do not have the extension. Go here and click on the graphic
for a price list and ordering information.
http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical/brakelines.html


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 3:19 PM
To: Mike Sinclair
Cc: Healey Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] leak

Just replace the complete brake line and fittings. Cheap and effective.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 7-11-2011 20:39, Mike Sinclair schreef:
> Need some opinions.  Have a brake fluid leak at a rear wheel.  Thought
> it was the cylinder, but on inspection, it is leaking from the
> fitting.  It is not leaking across the threads, but through the center
> of the fitting, coming out where the brake line enters.  I super-cleaned
everything, but still leaks.
> Maybe the flare is damaged.  Any ideas?  Would it be worth just
> replacing the brake line?  Is that available easily?  I'd rather not
> replace the cylinder, of course, but maybe will have to.  Inconvenient not
to have brakes.
>
> Mike
> BN2
> _______________________________________________

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Mon Nov  7 14:17:01 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 13:17:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Carb needles
In-Reply-To: <CAO4jdW+0ge9djZ7T_EUm=oXc-LxkxD0oVLAcWutnRwsDwAwNfA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1320700621.27888.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Alan;  Well I finally got around to it and the two files for all Big Healey
and Sprite carb models and numbers are now on the AHC of Southern Ontario
website at:  http://www.ahcso.com/Technical.html   The two pdf files are at
the bottom of the page.
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 3000 MkI BN7 & '62 3000 MkII BT7
 - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Wed, 7/6/11, Alan Bromfield <bluehealey at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Alan Bromfield <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb needles
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Received: Wednesday, July 6, 2011, 11:36 AM


Now that sounds like a file that should be on John Sims site.
My 2 cents.


On 6 July 2011 16:12, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com> wrote:

Hello Reinhart;  Attached is a file with all the carb information for the Big
Healey.  The information was sourced primarily from Burlen's over a decade
ago
and the link I used does not work today.  According to the data, the standard
needle is 'QW' and the rich needle is 'QA'

You should be able to confirm at http://www.burlen.co.uk/
or   http://www.sucarb.co.uk/
 --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada         - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Tue, 7/5/11, Reinhart Rosner <reinhart.rosner at aon.at> wrote:<< After a
big rebuild ofthe engine of my 100 the carbs (H4) are running too rich at dle
and too lean at higher revs. Some years ago with installing K&N filters
we changed to "QW" which are still in there. My mechanic told me
that "QA" should be the right needles for the engine setup. But he seems to
have difficulties to get these.  Anyone who knows a source for these,
preferable in Europe? >> 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Nov  7 15:19:05 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 17:19:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Carb needles
In-Reply-To: <1320700621.27888.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <CAO4jdW+0ge9djZ7T_EUm=oXc-LxkxD0oVLAcWutnRwsDwAwNfA@mail.gmail.com>
	<1320700621.27888.YahooMailClassic@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <010601cc9d9b$4396a6a0$cac3f3e0$@verizon.net>

I have the SU Manual on my site on the Bulletins page. It is a very large
PDF file. It is very comprehensive and gives theory, etc.  Scott's extract
is very useful and I will place a link to it ASAP

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 4:17 PM
To: Alan Bromfield; Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb needles

Hi Alan;  Well I finally got around to it and the two files for all Big
Healey and Sprite carb models and numbers are now on the AHC of Southern
Ontario
website at:  http://www.ahcso.com/Technical.html   The two pdf files are at
the bottom of the page.
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 3000 MkI BN7 & '62 3000 MkII
BT7
 - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Wed, 7/6/11, Alan Bromfield <bluehealey at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Alan Bromfield <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb needles
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Received: Wednesday, July 6, 2011, 11:36 AM


Now that sounds like a file that should be on John Sims site.
My 2 cents.


On 6 July 2011 16:12, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com> wrote:

Hello Reinhart;  Attached is a file with all the carb information for the
Big Healey.  The information was sourced primarily from Burlen's over a
decade ago and the link I used does not work today.  According to the data,
the standard needle is 'QW' and the rich needle is 'QA'

You should be able to confirm at http://www.burlen.co.uk/
or   http://www.sucarb.co.uk/
 --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada         - Keep Smiling, Murphy
Lives

--- On Tue, 7/5/11, Reinhart Rosner <reinhart.rosner at aon.at> wrote:<< After
a big rebuild ofthe engine of my 100 the carbs (H4) are running too rich at
dle and too lean at higher revs. Some years ago with installing K&N filters
we changed to "QW" which are still in there. My mechanic told me that "QA"
should be the right needles for the engine setup. But he seems to have
difficulties to get these.  Anyone who knows a source for these, preferable
in Europe? >> _______________________________________________

Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From hubrick at gmail.com  Mon Nov  7 17:22:55 2011
From: hubrick at gmail.com (Rick Huber)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 18:22:55 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer quit
Message-ID: <CAPVcQaekt0nGFU2Z1scPBNrrLh1wc_uT_anmVqeB5j79tYtU9w@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Bob, Steve, David,
I'll check out your suggestions when I get back home. Thanks for the
valuable advice.
Cheers,
Rick
64 BJ8 Phase I

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 18:12:22 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 17:12:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
Message-ID: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>

My father in law never threw anything away, even if he had stopped
using it.  After his death I found two full cases of cans (not
bottles) of SE-CC rated 30 weight Penzoil.  I am hoping that it is
chock full of ZDDP and all the stuff that made our old engines run
right.  More specifically I am hoping that it would be a good oil to
use in a newly rebuilt engine in our BN1 when it gets installed and
fired up next spring.

Does anybody know for sure?  I don't want to ruin a new engine but I
don't want to pass up this oil if it will do the break in phase well.

-Roland
BN1 #724

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 18:18:43 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 17:18:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] leak
In-Reply-To: <48A2826EC0EA4755BE3CFE29E5EF1B5E@Mike>
References: <48A2826EC0EA4755BE3CFE29E5EF1B5E@Mike>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111107171642.0206dda8@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Probably a cracked brake line at the flare. Steel lines can crack at 
the seam. If it is a steel line you can make it up By a line with 
flares then shape it and cut it to size and flare it or just buy a new line.
John

At 11:39 AM 11/7/2011 -0800, Mike Sinclair wrote:
>Need some opinions.  Have a brake fluid leak at a rear wheel.  Thought it was
>the cylinder, but on inspection, it is leaking from the fitting.  It is not
>leaking across the threads, but through the center of the fitting, coming out
>where the brake line enters.  I super-cleaned everything, but still leaks.
>Maybe the flare is damaged.  Any ideas?  Would it be worth just replacing the
>brake line?  Is that available easily?  I'd rather not replace the cylinder,
>of course, but maybe will have to.  Inconvenient not to have brakes.
>
>Mike
>BN2
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>
>__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
>signature database 6609 (20111107) __________
>
>The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>http://www.eset.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Nov  7 19:19:57 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 10:19:57 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJQwX7LsPeY7uYGN5UdnYxsR1GXDwZKAJ9Kzkaifp51CQ@mail.gmail.com>

Roland -

A couple of thoughts on this.

The first thing is to open one of the oil cans and see if there is
discolored sludge on the bottom of the can.  If so, this means the
additives have separated out from the oil (possibly including the ZDDP).
 This usually happens if the oil was out in the shed and subject to big
swings in temperature over years.  I would suggest you could use it in an
emergency to add a quart to the motor, but I'm not so sure I'd use it
exclusively on your next oil change.

If the oil has remained sealed in its container, the oil is still clear and
there is no sludge at the bottom, then it will probably be ok....

However, some of the cans may have contamination in them, and some types of
bacteria can breakdown the oil over extended periods of time, but if the
cans are sealed this will be a low risk.

It's up to you, is it worth the risk to you to use?

Alan


On Tue, Nov 8, 2011 at 9:12 AM, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> My father in law never threw anything away, even if he had stopped
> using it.  After his death I found two full cases of cans (not
> bottles) of SE-CC rated 30 weight Penzoil.  I am hoping that it is
> chock full of ZDDP and all the stuff that made our old engines run
> right.  More specifically I am hoping that it would be a good oil to
> use in a newly rebuilt engine in our BN1 when it gets installed and
> fired up next spring.
>
> Does anybody know for sure?  I don't want to ruin a new engine but I
> don't want to pass up this oil if it will do the break in phase well.
>
> -Roland
> BN1 #724
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Nov  7 20:46:36 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 21:46:36 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJQwX7LsPeY7uYGN5UdnYxsR1GXDwZKAJ9Kzkaifp51CQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
	<CAFBXTkJQwX7LsPeY7uYGN5UdnYxsR1GXDwZKAJ9Kzkaifp51CQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EB8A61C.4090502@justbrits.com>

On 11/7/2011 8:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> It's up to you, is it worth the risk to you to use?
***********************************************************
Roland, Alan has some good points but "forgot" the ONLY 'idea'
I'll be happy to impart <G> ! ! !

Go to Pennzoil site, find addy to write to and ASK them ! ! !

My $ 1.00 [especially for NEW motors <G>] !

Ed

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  7 21:20:27 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 20:20:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <4EB8A61C.4090502@justbrits.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
	<CAFBXTkJQwX7LsPeY7uYGN5UdnYxsR1GXDwZKAJ9Kzkaifp51CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EB8A61C.4090502@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <cebhb7943vqbpoela0keqqli046stk0puc@4ax.com>

Thanks, Alan.  Thanks, Ed, now why didn't I think of that?

-Roland

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 21:46:36 -0600, you wrote:

::On 11/7/2011 8:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
::> It's up to you, is it worth the risk to you to use?
::***********************************************************
::Roland, Alan has some good points but "forgot" the ONLY 'idea'
::I'll be happy to impart <G> ! ! !
::
::Go to Pennzoil site, find addy to write to and ASK them ! ! !
::
::My $ 1.00 [especially for NEW motors <G>] !
::
::Ed

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Nov  8 01:05:18 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:05:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <4EB8E2BE.4050206@chello.nl>

Do not use old oil. Although it may have been sealed I would not use it 
in a good engine. It may be allright but the chance is that it has gone 
off and oxidized/deteriorated over the years. If you use good old fresh 
20W50, that will be good enough. If worried use a ZDDP aditive, however 
I never use(d) it.
Use the oil in your small oiling can for small jobs if you want to be 
frugal.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Op 8-11-2011 2:12, Roland Wilhelmy schreef:
> My father in law never threw anything away, even if he had stopped
> using it.  After his death I found two full cases of cans (not
> bottles) of SE-CC rated 30 weight Penzoil.  I am hoping that it is
> chock full of ZDDP and all the stuff that made our old engines run
> right.  More specifically I am hoping that it would be a good oil to
> use in a newly rebuilt engine in our BN1 when it gets installed and
> fired up next spring.
>
> Does anybody know for sure?  I don't want to ruin a new engine but I
> don't want to pass up this oil if it will do the break in phase well.
>
> -Roland
> BN1 #724
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4602 - datum van uitgifte: 11/07/11

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov  8 09:31:06 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 08:31:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <4EB8E2BE.4050206@chello.nl>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
	<4EB8E2BE.4050206@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>

I have six gallons of the oil.  that is going to take a very long time
to use up in my oiling can :-)

-Roland

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:05:18 +0100, you wrote:

::Do not use old oil. Although it may have been sealed I would not use it
::in a good engine. It may be allright but the chance is that it has gone
::off and oxidized/deteriorated over the years. If you use good old fresh
::20W50, that will be good enough. If worried use a ZDDP aditive, however
::I never use(d) it.
::Use the oil in your small oiling can for small jobs if you want to be
::frugal.
::Kees Oudesluijs
::NL
::
::

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Nov  8 08:55:41 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 16:55:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
	<4EB8E2BE.4050206@chello.nl>
	<q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <4EB950FD.3060809@chello.nl>

A real pity but I would not chance it in a proper motor. Perhaps one of 
your mates has an old Landie. They will take anything you throw at them.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 8-11-2011 17:31, Roland Wilhelmy schreef:
> I have six gallons of the oil.  that is going to take a very long time
> to use up in my oiling can :-)
>
> -Roland
>
> On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:05:18 +0100, you wrote:
>
> ::Do not use old oil. Although it may have been sealed I would not use it
>
> ::in a good engine. It may be allright but the chance is that it has gone
>
> ::off and oxidized/deteriorated over the years. If you use good old fresh
>
> ::20W50, that will be good enough. If worried use a ZDDP aditive, however
>
> ::I never use(d) it.
> ::Use the oil in your small oiling can for small jobs if you want to be
> ::frugal.
> ::Kees Oudesluijs
> ::NL
> ::
> ::
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4604 - datum van uitgifte: 11/08/11

From dlcaudle at morrisbb.net  Tue Nov  8 10:09:31 2011
From: dlcaudle at morrisbb.net (J. David & Lisa Caudle)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 12:09:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] (Healey) mechanic SC
Message-ID: <000e01cc9e39$2f115010$8d33f030$@net>

Can anyone recommend Healey repair/service in the Greenville SC area? I have
a guy who is interested in purchasing my car but does not want to do any
hands on stuff and we would appreciate your help.

 

Thanks,

Dave Caudle 

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Nov  8 10:11:46 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 10:11:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com><4EB8E2BE.4050206@chello.nl>
	<q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <86494A62C13042D384B427C2D84B5ADB@oscar>

Use it in your lawn mower/snow blower etc....

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Roland Wilhelmy
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 9:31 AM
To: Oudesluys
Cc: 'Austin Healey list'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?

I have six gallons of the oil.  that is going to take a very long time
to use up in my oiling can :-)

-Roland

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:05:18 +0100, you wrote:

::Do not use old oil. Although it may have been sealed I would not use it
::in a good engine. It may be allright but the chance is that it has gone
::off and oxidized/deteriorated over the years. If you use good old fresh
::20W50, that will be good enough. If worried use a ZDDP aditive, however
::I never use(d) it.
::Use the oil in your small oiling can for small jobs if you want to be
::frugal.
::Kees Oudesluijs
::NL
::
::
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov  8 10:21:53 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:21:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
	<4EB8E2BE.4050206@chello.nl>
	<q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111108092056.020fc5c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

There are some light oils that come out of the ground ready to use 
without refining after being their for millions of years!

At 08:31 AM 11/8/2011 -0800, Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
>I have six gallons of the oil.  that is going to take a very long time
>to use up in my oiling can :-)
>
>-Roland
>
>On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:05:18 +0100, you wrote:
>
>::Do not use old oil. Although it may have been sealed I would not use it
>::in a good engine. It may be allright but the chance is that it has gone
>::off and oxidized/deteriorated over the years. If you use good old fresh
>::20W50, that will be good enough. If worried use a ZDDP aditive, however
>::I never use(d) it.
>::Use the oil in your small oiling can for small jobs if you want to be
>::frugal.
>::Kees Oudesluijs
>::NL
>::
>::
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>
>__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
>signature database 6611 (20111108) __________
>
>The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>http://www.eset.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue Nov  8 13:05:00 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 21:05:00 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111108092056.020fc5c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
	<4EB8E2BE.4050206@chello.nl>
	<q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20111108092056.020fc5c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmDUwutFmrDfr0Q=U+=Mz1aOXtCP6=cM0BphvpK_Zbj1Og@mail.gmail.com>

If something had been developed quite well in the car industry, it is oil.
Use hitech stuff here.

Gergo

2011/11/8 john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>

> There are some light oils that come out of the ground ready to use without
> refining after being their for millions of years!
>
>
> At 08:31 AM 11/8/2011 -0800, Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
>
>> I have six gallons of the oil.  that is going to take a very long time
>> to use up in my oiling can :-)
>>
>> -Roland
>>
>> On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:05:18 +0100, you wrote:
>>
>> ::Do not use old oil. Although it may have been sealed I would not use it
>> ::in a good engine. It may be allright but the chance is that it has gone
>> ::off and oxidized/deteriorated over the years. If you use good old fresh
>> ::20W50, that will be good enough. If worried use a ZDDP aditive, however
>> ::I never use(d) it.
>> ::Use the oil in your small oiling can for small jobs if you want to be
>> ::frugal.
>> ::Kees Oudesluijs
>> ::NL
>> ::
>> ::
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/jmsdarch@**sbcglobal.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>> signature database 6611 (20111108) __________
>>
>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>
>> http://www.eset.com
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Tue Nov  8 14:18:39 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 16:18:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmDUwutFmrDfr0Q=U+=Mz1aOXtCP6=cM0BphvpK_Zbj1Og@mail.gmail.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
	<4EB8E2BE.4050206@chello.nl>
	<q6mib7d3uv5evm3p5b76nmoegmcmp9e7bn@4ax.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20111108092056.020fc5c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CA+QDXmDUwutFmrDfr0Q=U+=Mz1aOXtCP6=cM0BphvpK_Zbj1Og@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJTyXLQZmUYeY+=E9413M=i9AYsZXFpyQUKqPOgQ7qPwoyGHhQ@mail.gmail.com>

Won't argue that today's oils are more advanced. Don't know why oil
would oxidize in a metal can. Probably this is one of those things
where we all have opinions, but very little knowledge of the chemistry
of motor oil. What I'd do; Take a can and turn it upside down for a
few days so that the "sludge" that was mentioned can fall back up
through the oil. Then open a can. Pour the oil into a clear container,
letting it drain very well. Then look at. Is it is a nice light color
like new oil? Smell it. Does it smell OK? Does it feel OK? If all
seems OK, then I would use it, but then I'm really cheap. I probably
would be inclined to maybe use it half and half with new oil (somehow
I expect to be taken to task on this), but again this is just my
opinion.

If you decide that it is best not to use it, then sell it by the quart
on ebay as a collectible/antique with a buy it now price of $6 per qt.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From rbeni3000 at wowway.com  Tue Nov  8 14:44:31 2011
From: rbeni3000 at wowway.com (BOB BENISEK)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 16:44:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <1245716554.47713.1320788657289.JavaMail.root@md08.wow.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <1637286399.47723.1320788671150.JavaMail.root@md08.wow.synacor.com>

In the May issue of Road & Track's Tech Advice Q&A section someone asked about
the shelf life of conventional and synthetic motor oil . There answer was,
"Our short answer is multiple decades for both types of oil, but when dealing
with longterm questions such as yours, manufacturers won't give an absolute
answer because they haven't done any formal testing over such long time spans,
and they don't have control or confidence in how the product was stored (the
proverbial cool, dark, place)."


----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin Healey" <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Austin Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 8, 2011 2:05:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?

If something had been developed quite well in the car industry, it is oil.
Use hitech stuff here.

Gergo

2011/11/8 john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>

> There are some light oils that come out of the ground ready to use without
> refining after being their for millions of years!
>
>
> At 08:31 AM 11/8/2011 -0800, Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
>
>> I have six gallons of the oil. B that is going to take a very long time
>> to use up in my oiling can :-)
>>
>> -Roland
>>
>> On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 09:05:18 +0100, you wrote:
>>
>> ::Do not use old oil. Although it may have been sealed I would not use it
>> ::in a good engine. It may be allright but the chance is that it has gone
>> ::off and oxidized/deteriorated over the years. If you use good old fresh
>> ::20W50, that will be good enough. If worried use a ZDDP aditive, however
>> ::I never use(d) it.
>> ::Use the oil in your small oiling can for small jobs if you want to be
>> ::frugal.
>> ::Kees Oudesluijs
>> ::NL
>> ::
>> ::
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation B $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/healeys/jmsdarch@**sbcglobal.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/option
s/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>> signature database 6611 (20111108) __________
>>
>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>
>> http://www.eset.com
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation B $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>
options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/
healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rbeni3000 at wowway.com

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov  8 14:46:32 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 13:46:32 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <sh8jb7la7hll4a1bhcumakb0fhan7boij5@4ax.com>

I have emailed my question to Shell, the parent of Pennzoil now at
pqsandcarcaretechnical-us at shell.com  (thank you, Google)

So far I have an automated reply that they have received it and will
reply to my question.  Maybe they'll want my oil for their museum?

-Roland

On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 17:12:22 -0800, you wrote:

::My father in law never threw anything away, even if he had stopped
::using it.  After his death I found two full cases of cans (not
::bottles) of SE-CC rated 30 weight Penzoil.  I am hoping that it is
::chock full of ZDDP and all the stuff that made our old engines run
::right.  More specifically I am hoping that it would be a good oil to
::use in a newly rebuilt engine in our BN1 when it gets installed and
::fired up next spring.

::-Roland
::BN1 #724

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Nov  8 16:07:43 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 07:07:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <sh8jb7la7hll4a1bhcumakb0fhan7boij5@4ax.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
	<sh8jb7la7hll4a1bhcumakb0fhan7boij5@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL-M7+jY3FfmGBjmAUWv8A5Lsr-CcnMMTXR5NGMAoT6BA@mail.gmail.com>

I suspect their response will be "buy new pennzoil" .... but maybe I'm
just jaded.

On 11/9/11, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I have emailed my question to Shell, the parent of Pennzoil now at
> pqsandcarcaretechnical-us at shell.com  (thank you, Google)
>
> So far I have an automated reply that they have received it and will
> reply to my question.  Maybe they'll want my oil for their museum?
>
> -Roland
>
> On Mon, 07 Nov 2011 17:12:22 -0800, you wrote:
>
> ::My father in law never threw anything away, even if he had stopped
> ::using it.  After his death I found two full cases of cans (not
> ::bottles) of SE-CC rated 30 weight Penzoil.  I am hoping that it is
> ::chock full of ZDDP and all the stuff that made our old engines run
> ::right.  More specifically I am hoping that it would be a good oil to
> ::use in a newly rebuilt engine in our BN1 when it gets installed and
> ::fired up next spring.
>
> ::-Roland
> ::BN1 #724
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Nov  8 16:55:05 2011
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 17:55:05 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
Message-ID: <9294577.2069381.1320796505600.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

/yQli4w: Permission denied

From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Nov  8 16:58:33 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 18:58:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?
In-Reply-To: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
References: <stvgb7tvjjqnj7lifbocttqcn3fjs4ico6@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <8CE6C8974B4662F-1774-1BF18@angweb-usd005.sysops.aol.com>

Roland
The net produced the following:
Petrol Engines  SC - Obsolete, For model year 1967 and older engines.
Diesel Engines  CC - Obsolete, Introduced in 1961 for all diesels.
Probably dates your cans to mid 60's.

Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html#ixzz1d9sKM3kT

With that in mind, I didn't have much problems with oil back in the late
sixties, but that was a long time ago.
If your new found treasure was mine, I'd keep a can or two for the memories
and offer the rest on eBay. Amazing what empty Pennzoil oil cans sell for.
Unopened cans seem to be bring even more.  If you can get the current asking
price of $10 to $25 a can, or even a lot less, you can then buy new break in
oil for the BN1 and take some one special to dinner!.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
To: 'Austin Healey list' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 7, 2011 8:36 pm
Subject: [Healeys] old oil for an old car?


My father in law never threw anything away, even if he had stopped
sing it.  After his death I found two full cases of cans (not
ottles) of SE-CC rated 30 weight Penzoil.  I am hoping that it is
hock full of ZDDP and all the stuff that made our old engines run
ight.  More specifically I am hoping that it would be a good oil to
se in a newly rebuilt engine in our BN1 when it gets installed and
ired up next spring.
Does anybody know for sure?  I don't want to ruin a new engine but I
on't want to pass up this oil if it will do the break in phase well.
-Roland
N1 #724
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com

From rmemler at gmail.com  Tue Nov  8 18:46:29 2011
From: rmemler at gmail.com (Robert Memler)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 20:46:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Differentials
Message-ID: <CAMi=r2fNCiWwPc7uV3vke3nUOwtn-uWAXaQ5wZJ07KfMarARZA@mail.gmail.com>

I am inquiring about the person who was selling the 3.5:1 differentials for
my 100. If anyone knows who he was would they please respond off-line.
TIA, Bob Memler

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Nov  8 22:37:58 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 21:37:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
Message-ID: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>

I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too).  I'm
getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next push
gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm
guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front wheel.
Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder?
Thanks for all the earlier advice.
Rich Kahn

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov  9 07:38:55 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 06:38:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Garage sale items, front fenders
Message-ID: <1320849535.57234.YahooMailClassic@web180109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I have an original left and right front big healey fender for sale.    Good
usable condition.  No patches necessary but some sanding and smoothing will be
necessary.   Pictures available. 
 
Shipping will be rediculous of course.     A big savings  if they are  picked 
up.  I will do
some traveling to help if necessary but don't get crazy.  
 
FYI,    $85.   to box each one by a professioal shipper.   So figure that into
shipping costs.
 
I need $200.  for each fender.  
 
A parts list will follow soon.
 
Mark

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov  9 07:46:15 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 06:46:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Sale Items
Message-ID: <1320849975.5179.YahooMailClassic@web180108.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Sorry,  My location is South Bend,  IN.   46615

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov  9 07:55:48 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 06:55:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1320850548.77264.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

My books all say to start from the bleeder that is furthest away from the
cylinder.   Also,  many times my brakes have gotten better when they sat for a
few days after bleeding.  
 
Mark

--- On Wed, 11/9/11, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:


From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 12:37 AM


I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too).  I'm
getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next
push
gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm
guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front
wheel.
Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder?
Thanks for all the earlier advice.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Nov  9 08:40:44 2011
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 10:40:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ99ShJ0nVe=zmHsvrgZOY53_g_GsEuiGBkq0DHc7Zbxg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Richard,
If you are getting a good pedal on the first push I don't think that air in
the system is your problem. My guess is that the brakes need adjusting and
that possibly you have a restricted brake hose.
I would recommend carefully clamping off the brake hoses (just enough
clamping to prevent fluid flow)  one at a time to determine whether the
problem is in the rear or in one of the front brakes. At least that way you
know where to concentrate your efforts.

Michael Salter
If you aren't living on the edge
you are taking up too much room.


On Wed, Nov 9, 2011 at 12:37 AM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too).  I'm
> getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next
> push
> gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm
> guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front
> wheel.
> Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder?
> Thanks for all the earlier advice.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov  9 08:49:34 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 15:49:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <1320850548.77264.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1588053754.1662322.1320853774406.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: "While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front wheel." 

Fix that first. 


Some general observations on brake bleeding: 

- if you're doing it the 'old-fashioned way;' i.e. pumping the pedal, use slow and steady strokes on the pedal (not 'three quick pumps and open the bleeder') 
- if you're doing pressure bleeding, use the lowest pressure that causes fluid to flow 
- vacuum bleeding: never had any luck with it 
- bleeding brakes is a PITA (but necessary, and the immediate feedback--a firm pedal--is satisfying) 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


My books all say to start from the bleeder that is furthest away from the 
cylinder. Also, many times my brakes have gotten better when they sat for a 
few days after bleeding. 

Mark 

--- On Wed, 11/9/11, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote: 


I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too). I'm 
getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next 
push 
gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm 
guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front 
wheel. 
Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder? 
Thanks for all the earlier advice. 
Rich Kahn 
_______________________________________________ 

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Nov  9 08:55:18 2011
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2011 09:55:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <1320850548.77264.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo .com>
References: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>
	<1320850548.77264.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201111090755611.SM01420@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Richard,
     Sometimes that pedal action means that the shoes need 
adjustment. The first push gets them close to the drum, the second 
gets them touching. The rear cylinders don't move very much. Then, 
after a bit, the springs will have pulled them too far away again.
         Peter C
--
At 08:55 AM 11/9/2011, mark lapierre wrote:
>My books all say to start from the bleeder that is furthest away from the
>cylinder.   Also,  many times my brakes have gotten better when they sat for a
>few days after bleeding.
>
>Mark
>
>--- On Wed, 11/9/11, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
>Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 12:37 AM
>
>
>I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too).  I'm
>getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next
>push
>gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm
>guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front
>wheel.
>Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder?
>Thanks for all the earlier advice.
>Rich Kahn

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Nov  9 09:06:00 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 08:06:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ99ShJ0nVe=zmHsvrgZOY53_g_GsEuiGBkq0DHc7Zbxg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<CAB3i7LJ99ShJ0nVe=zmHsvrgZOY53_g_GsEuiGBkq0DHc7Zbxg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W40794F4A68563E7EAD1D92A4DF0@phx.gbl>

All brake and clutch lines are new and tight. Thanks for the thought.

Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 10:40:44 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com
To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com
CC: healeys at autox.team.net

Hi Richard,
If you are getting a good pedal on the first push I don't think that air in
the system is your problem. My guess is that the brakes need adjusting and
that possibly you have a restricted brake hose.
I would recommend carefully clamping off the brake hoses (just enough clamping
to prevent fluid flow)  one at a time to determine whether the problem is in
the rear or in one of the front brakes. At least that way you know where to
concentrate your efforts.


Michael Salter
If you aren't living on the edge
you are taking up too much room.


On Wed, Nov 9, 2011 at 12:37 AM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
wrote:

I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too).  I'm

getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next
push

gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm

guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front
wheel.

Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder?

Thanks for all the earlier advice.

Rich Kahn

_______________________________________________

Healeys at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Nov  9 09:12:26 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 08:12:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <201111090755611.SM01420@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<1320850548.77264.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<201111090755611.SM01420@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W3290AE5270BFCBF27B9435A4DF0@phx.gbl>

I will recheck the adjuster. I hadn't thought of that.
Thanks
Rich Kahn
> Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 09:55:18 -0600
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> From: peter at nosimport.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
>
> Richard,
>      Sometimes that pedal action means that the shoes need
> adjustment. The first push gets them close to the drum, the second
> gets them touching. The rear cylinders don't move very much. Then,
> after a bit, the springs will have pulled them too far away again.
>          Peter C
> --
> At 08:55 AM 11/9/2011, mark lapierre wrote:
> >My books all say to start from the bleeder that is furthest away from the
> >cylinder.   Also,  many times my brakes have gotten better when they sat
for a
> >few days after bleeding.
> >
> >Mark
> >
> >--- On Wed, 11/9/11, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> >Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
> >To: healeys at autox.team.net
> >Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 12:37 AM
> >
> >
> >I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too).  I'm
> >getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next
> >push
> >gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm
> >guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front
> >wheel.
> >Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder?
> >Thanks for all the earlier advice.
> >Rich Kahn

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov  9 09:28:08 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 08:28:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <972963F9-C54E-4E70-9EF6-F26E33F2E57E@sbcglobal.net>

When bleeding brakes always work from the longest distance to the  
shortest distance from the master cylinder. On all the Healeys you  
would do left rear, right rear, left front, right front.  No reason  
to start at the master unless you are installing a new master cylinder.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 8, 2011, at 9:37 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:

> I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch  
> too).  I'm
> getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure.  
> The next push
> gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re- 
> bleed, I'm
> guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right  
> front wheel.
> Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master  
> cylinder?
> Thanks for all the earlier advice.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Thu Nov 10 13:44:47 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 12:44:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Starting Problem
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D69@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

Been having problems re-starting my car after it is hot.  Starter
engages, but will not turn motor over.  Even if it sits for 8-10 hours,
it still won't turn over, but if it sits for a few days, it has no
problems starting on the 1st twist of the key.

Ground from engine to chassis is good.

Car has also had issues with not being able to stay in OD at night with
the headlamps on.

I'm thinking I have a charging and or battery issue that is causing both
- any thoughts?

Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Nov  9 19:01:18 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2011 20:01:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <1588053754.1662322.1320853774406.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1588053754.1662322.1320853774406.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4EBB306E.2040400@justbrits.com>

<< - vacuum bleeding: never had any luck with it >>

DITTO and Amen, Bob ! ! !    SERIOUS PITA !

<<  - bleeding brakes is a PITA (but necessary, and the immediate feedback
--a firm pedal--is satisfying)>>

"Almost" a joy with eEzibleed<VBG>  ! ! !   Er, unless one is "silly" enough to
be trying to use "SillyCrap"<G>  <G>  ! ! !

Ed

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed Nov  9 16:27:13 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 15:27:13 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Flared Fenders
Message-ID: <002201cc9f37$1cce6dd0$566b4970$@ca>

Hi All,

 

I couple of years ago, I acquired 4 ali fenders from Cape International in
the UK.

 

The fenders I acquired are flared about 1".   I'm now having second thoughts
about the flaring and whether to go back to no flared stock.

 

I've only seen a couple of pictures of cars with the flares and I'm not sure
if it's what I want.  If I did go with the flares, I would get offset wire
wheels so that they filled out the wheel well.

 

I would be interested in hearing back from the list as  to their opinions
and seeing additional pictures of cars with flares if anybody has any.

 

Some pictures of cars with flares can be found at
https://picasaweb.google.com/114109475966603976384/FlaredFendersHealey#

 

Thanks

Paul

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 10 16:33:33 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:33:33 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pennzoil's reply about old oil
Message-ID: <unnob71i21jmoim7t7kb8mria1uq8k134h@4ax.com>

I sent this a couple of days ago but apparently there was a problem
with the list's server right then, so here it is again:

It took a little cage rattling, but I got my answer (see below).   It
doesn't say whether the 'separated' additives would blend back in if
stirred.  The operation of the engine would certainly stir up
everything.  However, it isn't worth the risk.

 The best idea I have received is to sell the old oil on eBay for $10+
per qt, buy some super good ZDDP-laden break in oil and spend the rest
of the money on a dinner out.

Thanks to all.

-Roland
::From: <pqsandcarcaretechnical-us at shell.com>
::Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 10:57:12 -0600
::
::Hello,
::
::We appreciate you e-mailing our company.
::We do not recommend using any motor oil that is longer than 5 years
::old. Additives in motor oil  would start  separating over a period of
::time.  Please recycle it accordingly.
::
::Should you desire to speak with a technical representative to discuss
::this issue in more detail please call Pennzoil-Quaker State Technical
::Information at 1-800-237-8645.
::
::Sincerely
::Product Technical Service

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 10 18:20:58 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:20:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <972963F9-C54E-4E70-9EF6-F26E33F2E57E@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

David,

Isn't the right rear farther away from the M/C than the left rear in a LHD
car?

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 11/9/11, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 11:28 AM

When bleeding brakes always work from the longest distance to the 
shortest distance from the master cylinder. On all the Healeys you 
would do left rear, right rear, left front, right front.  No reason 
to start at the master unless you are installing a new master cylinder.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 8, 2011, at 9:37 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:

> I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch 
> too).  I'm
> getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. 
> The next push
> gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-
> bleed, I'm
> guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right 
> front wheel.
> Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master 
> cylinder?
> Thanks for all the earlier advice.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Thu Nov 10 01:41:11 2011
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 08:41:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <201111090755611.SM01420@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <COL121-W65DB3E1D4AA121D6A1418EA4DF0@phx.gbl>
	<1320850548.77264.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<201111090755611.SM01420@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <5yooSbBn44uOFw3O@jharper.demon.co.uk>

May I add something here.

On front drum brake big A-Hs that fit Girling units, the adjusters allow 
the pistons to remain part way up the cylinders. The shoes will 
therefore not push the pistons fully in. This sometimes leaves air in 
the cylinders. The fluid can therefore pass straight from the input pipe 
to the outlet pipe or bleed nipple. In this case it is necessary to 
fully slacken the adjusters and allow the pistons to be fully pushed 
home in the cylinders.

Regards


>    Sometimes that pedal action means that the shoes need adjustment. 
>The first push gets them close to the drum, the second gets them 
>touching. The rear cylinders don't move very much. Then, after a bit, 
>the springs will have pulled them too far away again.
>        Peter C
>--
>At 08:55 AM 11/9/2011, mark lapierre wrote:
>>My books all say to start from the bleeder that is furthest away from the
>>cylinder.   Also,  many times my brakes have gotten better when they sat for a
>>few days after bleeding.
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>--- On Wed, 11/9/11, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
>>Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
>>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 12:37 AM
>>
>>
>>I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch too).  I'm
>>getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. The next
>>push
>>gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-bleed, I'm
>>guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right front
>>wheel.
>>Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master cylinder?
>>Thanks for all the earlier advice.
>>Rich Kahn
-- 
John Harper

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Thu Nov 10 23:12:10 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 01:12:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer
Message-ID: <26c4.289e8da7.3bee16ba@aol.com>

Tried this earlier, but it  came back. 
 
Here's a link to a video interview I did with Michael Grant from Moss  
Motors talking about their involvement with Drive Away  Cancer.  
 
   _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82F773YBvow&feature=related_ 
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82F773YBvow&feature=related) 
 
I am also just finishing a video with David Nock which I will be posting  
later today, so that link will be on its way soon.

 
And here are two more links to two new videos:
 
            Mike  Chaput, from Moss Motors talking about Drive Away  Cancer:
_http://youtu.be/qZE0_KsoHd8_ (http://youtu.be/qZE0_KsoHd8)  

David  Nock, British Car Specialists, talking about his experiences with 
Drive Away  Cancer:
_http://youtu.be/vB1zbavZtl0_ (http://youtu.be/vB1zbavZtl0)  


Cheers,
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1  #598    

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Fri Nov 11 00:35:16 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 08:35:16 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Flared Fenders
In-Reply-To: <002201cc9f37$1cce6dd0$566b4970$@ca>
References: <002201cc9f37$1cce6dd0$566b4970$@ca>
Message-ID: <CAAh8etk_d6coCRNPm36=zgqa15hSsMWVhXymXwOnq66TXZPV7g@mail.gmail.com>

Paul,

My personal view is that they look OK if you are going for the full Race /
Rally look as per the photos you posted. If not I'd stick with regular
fenders.

You might also consider having flared fenders only on the front. I've seen
that done before and I think I prefer it.

regards

Derek
On Thu, Nov 10, 2011 at 12:27 AM, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
>
> I couple of years ago, I acquired 4 ali fenders from Cape International in
> the UK.
>
>
>
> The fenders I acquired are flared about 1".   I'm now having second
> thoughts
> about the flaring and whether to go back to no flared stock.
>
>
>
> I've only seen a couple of pictures of cars with the flares and I'm not
> sure
> if it's what I want.  If I did go with the flares, I would get offset wire
> wheels so that they filled out the wheel well.
>
>
>
> I would be interested in hearing back from the list as  to their opinions
> and seeing additional pictures of cars with flares if anybody has any.
>
>
>
> Some pictures of cars with flares can be found at
> https://picasaweb.google.com/114109475966603976384/FlaredFendersHealey#
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Nov 11 01:18:33 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:18:33 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Starting Problem
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D69@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D69@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKNqpvwRdOErMyiZess7542kURJv2bdDxeShSY51yNMJA@mail.gmail.com>

Try cleaning your battery terminals with a wire cleaner then see if that helps.

On 11/11/11, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
> Been having problems re-starting my car after it is hot.  Starter
> engages, but will not turn motor over.  Even if it sits for 8-10 hours,
> it still won't turn over, but if it sits for a few days, it has no
> problems starting on the 1st twist of the key.
>
> Ground from engine to chassis is good.
>
> Car has also had issues with not being able to stay in OD at night with
> the headlamps on.
>
> I'm thinking I have a charging and or battery issue that is causing both
> - any thoughts?
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Nov 11 01:58:06 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 09:58:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Starting Problem
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D69@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D69@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <4EBCE39E.1050609@chello.nl>

Loose/corroded battery terminals, worn/burned battery switch or starter 
relay, worn/sticking starter motor brushes.
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 10-11-2011 21:44, Jonas Payne schreef:
> Been having problems re-starting my car after it is hot.  Starter
> engages, but will not turn motor over.  Even if it sits for 8-10 hours,
> it still won't turn over, but if it sits for a few days, it has no
> problems starting on the 1st twist of the key.
>
> Ground from engine to chassis is good.
>
> Car has also had issues with not being able to stay in OD at night with
> the headlamps on.
>
> I'm thinking I have a charging and or battery issue that is causing both
> - any thoughts?
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4608 - datum van uitgifte: 11/10/11

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Nov 11 02:06:16 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 10:06:16 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <4EBB306E.2040400@justbrits.com>
References: <1588053754.1662322.1320853774406.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4EBB306E.2040400@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4EBCE588.9090705@chello.nl>

Eezibleed is definitely the way to go. Simple, effective and a one man 
show. You do not run the risk of ruining the master brake/clutch 
cylinder seal over the rim of crud. No chance of entering air  in the 
system because of a vacuum.
The only negative point can be brake fluid spillage if you do not fit 
the cannister properly or when you remove it. I have used it or the old 
mechanics replacement with a bicycle inner tire for more the 4 decades.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 10-11-2011 3:01, " Just Brits " Shop schreef:
> <<  - vacuum bleeding: never had any luck with it>>
>
> DITTO and Amen, Bob ! ! !    SERIOUS PITA !
>
> <<   - bleeding brakes is a PITA (but necessary, and the immediate feedback
> --a firm pedal--is satisfying)>>
>
> "Almost" a joy with eEzibleed<VBG>   ! ! !   Er, unless one is "silly" enough to
> be trying to use "SillyCrap"<G>   <G>   ! ! !
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4608 - datum van uitgifte: 11/10/11

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Nov 11 04:44:21 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 06:44:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <972963F9-C54E-4E70-9EF6-F26E33F2E57E@sbcglobal.net>
	<1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002401cca067$40bb63c0$c2322b40$@net>

You have to really consider the distance from the 4 way junction, not the
master cylinder. Therefore with the junction being on the front right side
of the car, the rear left will be furthest away and require bleeding first.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: 2011-11-10 8:21
To: Richard Kahn; David Nock
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes

David,

Isn't the right rear farther away from the M/C than the left rear in a LHD
car?

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 11/9/11, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 11:28 AM

When bleeding brakes always work from the longest distance to the 
shortest distance from the master cylinder. On all the Healeys you 
would do left rear, right rear, left front, right front.  No reason 
to start at the master unless you are installing a new master cylinder.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 8, 2011, at 9:37 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:

> I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch 
> too).  I'm
> getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure. 
> The next push
> gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-
> bleed, I'm
> guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right 
> front wheel.
> Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master 
> cylinder?
> Thanks for all the earlier advice.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 11 06:23:02 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 05:23:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Flared Fenders
In-Reply-To: <CAAh8etk_d6coCRNPm36=zgqa15hSsMWVhXymXwOnq66TXZPV7g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1321017782.93926.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I agree with Derek.  Ultimately, the decision to stray away from stock is a
personal one and the modifier has to be willing to accept the potential loss
of value that usually accompanies a highly visible mod.  I really like the
looks of the Healey blue car you've pictured.  And you're definitely on the
right track with wheel selection.  The center-laced Cobra style wheels really
make the look of that car.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Fri, 11/11/11, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flared Fenders
To: "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, November 11, 2011, 2:35 AM

Paul,

My personal view is that they look OK if you are going for the full Race /
Rally look as per the photos you posted. If not I'd stick with regular
fenders.

You might also consider having flared fenders only on the front. I've seen
that done before and I think I prefer it.

regards

Derek
On Thu, Nov 10, 2011 at 12:27 AM, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
>
> I couple of years ago, I acquired 4 ali fenders from Cape International in
> the UK.
>
>
>
> The fenders I acquired are flared about 1".   I'm now having second
> thoughts
> about the flaring and whether to go back to no flared stock.
>
>
>
> I've only seen a couple of pictures of cars with the flares and I'm not
> sure
> if it's what I want.  If I did go with the flares, I would get offset wire
> wheels so that they filled out the wheel well.
>
>
>
> I would be interested in hearing back from the list as  to their opinions
> and seeing additional pictures of cars with flares if anybody has any.

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Fri Nov 11 08:38:49 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 07:38:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Starting Problem
In-Reply-To: <4EBCE39E.1050609@chello.nl>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D69@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<4EBCE39E.1050609@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D6A@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

Parts store confirmed a bad battery.  Replaced battery, same problem.

Attempted to manually "throw" the solenoid - starter clicks but does not
turn over engine

Shorted solenoid between posts - starter clicks but does not turn over
engine

Confirmed that solenoid properly is working when starter button is
engaged using the multimeter.

Based on this I pulled the starter - the shaft has significant movement,
so I'm thinking it's cooked.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From edriver at sasktel.net  Fri Nov 11 09:26:58 2011
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 10:26:58 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Remembrance/Veterans Day
Message-ID: <4EBD4CD2.2020703@sasktel.net>

Deep felt thanks to all those who served and never came home;
to those that have served; and to those who are serving so that
we continue treasure  the freedom  we have.

Regards
E.A. Driver
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

From agrossman at pacific.net  Fri Nov 11 17:33:58 2011
From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:33:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Remembrance/Veterans Day
In-Reply-To: <4EBD4CD2.2020703@sasktel.net>
References: <4EBD4CD2.2020703@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <8E497160FC5B46C7B0F4C6BEA9200AAC@AlanPC>

Yes, absolutely. Very well said.

Best, Alan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 8:26 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Remembrance/Veterans Day


> Deep felt thanks to all those who served and never came home;
> to those that have served; and to those who are serving so that
> we continue treasure  the freedom  we have.
>
> Regards
> E.A. Driver
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov 11 20:09:12 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:09:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9719395B-F0FF-4E8A-9864-8B7DD8403A8B@sbcglobal.net>

No the brake lines run down the right frame rail then to the rear end and
cross from left to right


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On Nov 10, 2011, at 5:20 PM, HealeyRick wrote:

> David,
>
> Isn't the right rear farther away from the M/C than the left rear in a LHD
car?
>
> Rick
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Wed, 11/9/11, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
> To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 11:28 AM
>
> When bleeding brakes always work from the longest distance to the
> shortest distance from the master cylinder. On all the Healeys you
> would do left rear, right rear, left front, right front.  No reason
> to start at the master unless you are installing a new master cylinder.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Nov 8, 2011, at 9:37 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>
> > I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch
> > too).  I'm
> > getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure.
> > The next push
> > gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-
> > bleed, I'm
> > guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right
> > front wheel.
> > Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master
> > cylinder?
> > Thanks for all the earlier advice.
> > Rich Kahn
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Nov 12 02:28:44 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 17:28:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone in Detroit, MI area?
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKrkgHj8rAa-Z=L-uOcJ1Pb2jWCCJ8u74QqAfekUquCrw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not sure yet but I may need some help with my BN1 which is
currently in storage there.

Many thanks,

Alan

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sat Nov 12 03:13:34 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:13:34 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <9719395B-F0FF-4E8A-9864-8B7DD8403A8B@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<9719395B-F0FF-4E8A-9864-8B7DD8403A8B@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BF5119F8-8F62-4377-AF85-593FEB9E0C47@gmail.com>

I always get confused with this "right" "left" thing on Healeys on an  
international email list.
My Healey is right hand drive. So when I sit in my Healey, my  
passenger is on my left, from my perspective.
So if people say "right" or "left" is that from the perspective of  
sitting in the car, or from standing in front of it???
At least "near side" (nearest to kerb) and "off side" give a  
perspective of the view!
All the lines (fuel, brake) run down the same side on the chassis on  
my RHD Healey. That would be my drivers side. Or the off side. Or the  
left hand side facing my car when standing in front of it.
Perspective.
No matter which direction I face, my right hand is never confused with  
my left....
So that would be the right Hand side, standing at the front, looking  
at the car, David????
I'm not being a smartarse.
My Healeys have always been RHD. As sold from the factory.
And I never knew a pedal box could interfere with a HD8!!
sincerely.
Chris.

Sent from my iPhone

On 12/11/2011, at 2:09 PM, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> No the brake lines run down the right frame rail then to the rear  
> end and
> cross from left to right
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> On Nov 10, 2011, at 5:20 PM, HealeyRick wrote:
>
>> David,
>>
>> Isn't the right rear farther away from the M/C than the left rear  
>> in a LHD
> car?
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>>
>> --- On Wed, 11/9/11, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
>> To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 11:28 AM
>>
>> When bleeding brakes always work from the longest distance to the
>> shortest distance from the master cylinder. On all the Healeys you
>> would do left rear, right rear, left front, right front.  No reason
>> to start at the master unless you are installing a new master  
>> cylinder
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 8, 2011, at 9:37 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>>
>>> I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch
>>> too).  I'm
>>> getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure.
>>> The next push
>>> gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-
>>> bleed, I'm
>>> guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right
>>> front wheel.
>>> Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master
>>> cylinder?
>>> Thanks for all the earlier advice.
>>> Rich Kah

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Nov 12 04:51:01 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 06:51:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <BF5119F8-8F62-4377-AF85-593FEB9E0C47@gmail.com>
References: <1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<9719395B-F0FF-4E8A-9864-8B7DD8403A8B@sbcglobal.net>
	<BF5119F8-8F62-4377-AF85-593FEB9E0C47@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006b01cca131$5981f3e0$0c85dba0$@net>

Chris,

The right side of the car is always when sitting in the car looking forward.

The brake bleeding issue is again dealt with from the pint furthest away
from the 4 way pipe junction, and that doesn't matter whether the car is
right or left hand drive. 

The interference between an HD8 air filter is more correctly described as
being with the diagonal brace on the left side of the engine bay which has a
relief pressed into it. On left hand drive cars, the master cylinders and
pedal assembly are mounted up into this area. Hence probably the confusion
in terminology. I am enclosing a picture to Chris of the relief area on the
diagonal strut I'm describing. I am also including a picture of the 4 way
junction always mounted on the inner right front area of the engine bay.
>From that point, the furthest distance , therefore the bleed screw to begin
bleeding is the rear left.

Rich

Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes

I always get confused with this "right" "left" thing on Healeys on an  
international email list.
My Healey is right hand drive. So when I sit in my Healey, my  
passenger is on my left, from my perspective.
So if people say "right" or "left" is that from the perspective of  
sitting in the car, or from standing in front of it???
At least "near side" (nearest to kerb) and "off side" give a  
perspective of the view!
All the lines (fuel, brake) run down the same side on the chassis on  
my RHD Healey. That would be my drivers side. Or the off side. Or the  
left hand side facing my car when standing in front of it.
Perspective.
No matter which direction I face, my right hand is never confused with  
my left....
So that would be the right Hand side, standing at the front, looking  
at the car, David????
I'm not being a smartarse.
My Healeys have always been RHD. As sold from the factory.
And I never knew a pedal box could interfere with a HD8!!
sincerely.
Chris.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jul409 016.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jul409 024.jpg]

From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 12 08:03:16 2011
From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 07:03:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] lighhtened flywheel
Message-ID: <1321110196.32565.YahooMailClassic@web120115.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

anyone have one for a 66 bj8

From pieters at pt.lu  Sat Nov 12 13:24:02 2011
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:24:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing
Message-ID: <6D5A335A-9F91-4EEA-BD07-6A7A7E5E8514@pt.lu>

I am looking to verify a diagnosis. I am running rear disc brakes and have
developed a rythmic clicking noise from the right rear that stops when the
brakes are applied lightly.  I thought I had a warped disc and the noise was
the disc slapping the brake pad on each rotation. I jacked up the rear and
found I could move both rear wheels in and out slightly but the right rear I
can "rock" . That is if I grab the front and rear of the tyre I can pull the
front out and rear in and vice versa. Rims are near new and the splines are in
good condition. The wheel spinners were of course tight.

 I suspect it is wear in the hub bearing as I have disassembled the right rear
and can find nothing else broken or worn. The bearing runs quietly but there
is some in out play.

 It there anything else I should be checking before I order new bearing etc?

 Thanks
Pieter

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sat Nov 12 15:03:19 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 23:03:19 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Left & Right, was:  re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <BF5119F8-8F62-4377-AF85-593FEB9E0C47@gmail.com>
References: <1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<9719395B-F0FF-4E8A-9864-8B7DD8403A8B@sbcglobal.net>
	<BF5119F8-8F62-4377-AF85-593FEB9E0C47@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EBEED27.4030700@bredband.net>

Hi
The left hand is where the thumb is to the right and
the right hand is where the thumb is to the left.
Clear as mud.

Per in Sweden

From hstandfa at iinet.net.au  Sat Nov 12 16:44:17 2011
From: hstandfa at iinet.net.au (Noel and Helen standfast)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 09:44:17 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 heater tap at water pump
Message-ID: <4EBF04D1.1040709@iinet.net.au>

Hi Listers

I am looking for a heater control tap for the original cast iron water 
pump on my BN1 and I can't find a new one in the catalogues of the usual 
suppliers, does anyone know where I can buy one or alternately is any 
one willing to sell me a good second hand one?  Also I need to clean up 
the thread in the water pump after drilling out a stubborn plug, the 
thread appears to be an unusual 16 TPI thread, is it 5/8 x 16 Whitworth?

thanks


Noel S

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Nov 12 17:11:53 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 19:11:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 heater tap at water pump
In-Reply-To: <4EBF04D1.1040709@iinet.net.au>
References: <4EBF04D1.1040709@iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <024c01cca198$d997b1c0$8cc71540$@verizon.net>

Try British Car Specialists in Stockton, CA. They usually can find these
unobtainable parts.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Noel and Helen standfast
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 6:44 PM
To: Healeys list
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 heater tap at water pump

Hi Listers

I am looking for a heater control tap for the original cast iron water pump
on my BN1 and I can't find a new one in the catalogues of the usual
suppliers, does anyone know where I can buy one or alternately is any one
willing to sell me a good second hand one?  Also I need to clean up the
thread in the water pump after drilling out a stubborn plug, the thread
appears to be an unusual 16 TPI thread, is it 5/8 x 16 Whitworth?

thanks


Noel S
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From normcay at volcano.net  Sat Nov 12 18:52:21 2011
From: normcay at volcano.net (Norman Cay)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 17:52:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Left & Right, was:  re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <4EBEED27.4030700@bredband.net>
References: <1320974458.86689.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<9719395B-F0FF-4E8A-9864-8B7DD8403A8B@sbcglobal.net>
	<BF5119F8-8F62-4377-AF85-593FEB9E0C47@gmail.com>
	<4EBEED27.4030700@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <4EBF22D5.4060504@volcano.net>

Is this when you are looking at the palm or at the back of the hand?
Norm

On 11/12/2011 2:03 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
> Hi
> The left hand is where the thumb is to the right and
> the right hand is where the thumb is to the left.
> Clear as mud.
>
> Per in Sweden

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov 12 19:17:14 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 02:17:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing
In-Reply-To: <6D5A335A-9F91-4EEA-BD07-6A7A7E5E8514@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <1537642346.1824092.1321150634314.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I haven't encountered this particular phenomenon, yet, but it doesn't sound like the hub bearing. Those are roller bearings and, unlike tapered bearings (like in the front hubs) they aren't designed in particular to really limit end or fore-and-aft play. 

What could allow this type of 'rocking' would be looseness in the differential, namely the splines on the end of the axle and in--might have the wrong term or part, here--the carrier. I'd pull the axle and have a look at the splines before pulling the hubs (you have to pull the axles to get the hubs out anyway). 

I had the 'clicking noise' problem on a front wheel for years. Finally got rid of it with new brake pads. Some pads can leave residue on the rotor which feigns 'warping,' but it's really just uneven buildup of deposits from the pads (Carroll Smith wrote an article about this way back). 

My guess is you have a similar problem. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I am looking to verify a diagnosis. I am running rear disc brakes and have 
developed a rythmic clicking noise from the right rear that stops when the 
brakes are applied lightly. I thought I had a warped disc and the noise was 
the disc slapping the brake pad on each rotation. I jacked up the rear and 
found I could move both rear wheels in and out slightly but the right rear I 
can "rock" . That is if I grab the front and rear of the tyre I can pull the 
front out and rear in and vice versa. Rims are near new and the splines are in 
good condition. The wheel spinners were of course tight. 

I suspect it is wear in the hub bearing as I have disassembled the right rear 
and can find nothing else broken or worn. The bearing runs quietly but there 
is some in out play. 

It there anything else I should be checking before I order new bearing etc? 

Thanks 
Pieter 

From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Nov 12 19:26:15 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:26:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing
In-Reply-To: <1537642346.1824092.1321150634314.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1537642346.1824092.1321150634314.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CE6FC2C0C1D22F-5F0-2D853@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com>

Bob
I think the rear hub bearings are ball type not roller. Could be wrong.
Aloha
Perry
Bob wrote: I haven't encountered this particular phenomenon, yet, but it
doesn't sound like
he hub bearing. Those are roller bearings and,...

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sat Nov 12 19:34:42 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 02:34:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing
In-Reply-To: <6D5A335A-9F91-4EEA-BD07-6A7A7E5E8514@pt.lu>
References: <6D5A335A-9F91-4EEA-BD07-6A7A7E5E8514@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <BAY168-W1170BF62182A3ED7497B2C6C0C30@phx.gbl>

I doubt that it is a worn bearing. These bearings never seem to wear out. What
usually happens (for whatever reason) is that hub gets loose and the inside
spacer ring (it may be called a "distance piece")  no longer pinches the
bearing properly so that the outer race of the bearing then begins to spin in
the hub. This allows the outer bearing race to grind itself deeper into the
hub. The spacer ring is now useless and the hub can rock. If the bearing has
not gone too deep, you can drive out the studs and machine the face of the
hub. The ring is supposed to stand proud of the hub, with the gasket in place,
about .002" or .003". Check the manual on this for the exact amount. If the
bearing is too deep into the hub then you must replace the hub. You may also
have to use a bearing retaining compound to install the bearing into the hub
as it may no longer be a snug fit.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> From: pieters at pt.lu
> Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:24:02 +0100
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing
>
> I am looking to verify a diagnosis. I am running rear disc brakes and have
> developed a rythmic clicking noise from the right rear that stops when the
> brakes are applied lightly.  I thought I had a warped disc and the noise
was
> the disc slapping the brake pad on each rotation. I jacked up the rear and
> found I could move both rear wheels in and out slightly but the right rear
I
> can "rock" . That is if I grab the front and rear of the tyre I can pull
the
> front out and rear in and vice versa. Rims are near new and the splines are
in
> good condition. The wheel spinners were of course tight.
>
>  I suspect it is wear in the hub bearing as I have disassembled the right
rear
> and can find nothing else broken or worn. The bearing runs quietly but
there
> is some in out play.
>
>  It there anything else I should be checking before I order new bearing
etc?
>
>  Thanks
> Pieter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov 12 19:42:57 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 02:42:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing
In-Reply-To: <1537642346.1824092.1321150634314.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <601616186.1824641.1321152177366.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Oops ... meant 'ball' bearings, not 'roller.' 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> 
To: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu> 
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 6:17:14 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing 

I haven't encountered this particular phenomenon, yet, but it doesn't sound like the hub bearing. Those are roller bearings and, unlike tapered bearings (like in the front hubs) they aren't designed in particular to really limit end or fore-and-aft play. 

What could allow this type of 'rocking' would be looseness in the differential, namely the splines on the end of the axle and in--might have the wrong term or part, here--the carrier. I'd pull the axle and have a look at the splines before pulling the hubs (you have to pull the axles to get the hubs out anyway). 

I had the 'clicking noise' problem on a front wheel for years. Finally got rid of it with new brake pads. Some pads can leave residue on the rotor which feigns 'warping,' but it's really just uneven buildup of deposits from the pads (Carroll Smith wrote an article about this way back). 

My guess is you have a similar problem. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message ----- 


I am looking to verify a diagnosis. I am running rear disc brakes and have 
developed a rythmic clicking noise from the right rear that stops when the 
brakes are applied lightly. I thought I had a warped disc and the noise was 
the disc slapping the brake pad on each rotation. I jacked up the rear and 
found I could move both rear wheels in and out slightly but the right rear I 
can "rock" . That is if I grab the front and rear of the tyre I can pull the 
front out and rear in and vice versa. Rims are near new and the splines are in 
good condition. The wheel spinners were of course tight. 

I suspect it is wear in the hub bearing as I have disassembled the right rear 
and can find nothing else broken or worn. The bearing runs quietly but there 
is some in out play. 

It there anything else I should be checking before I order new bearing etc? 

Thanks 
Pieter 
_______________________________________________ 
Healeys at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
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From pieters at pt.lu  Sun Nov 13 01:56:29 2011
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 09:56:29 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing
In-Reply-To: <BAY168-W1170BF62182A3ED7497B2C6C0C30@phx.gbl>
References: <6D5A335A-9F91-4EEA-BD07-6A7A7E5E8514@pt.lu>
	<BAY168-W1170BF62182A3ED7497B2C6C0C30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1590C769-1B3E-4FD0-8109-BAAC9E7C0B5D@pt.lu>

Good call Richard.
 Closer inspection shows that the bearing spacer sits flush with the face of
the hub. Allowing for the thickness of the gasket means it is now a loose fit.
The spacer and face of the outer bearing race both show signs of fretting due
to movement.  Machining the hub could be a bit hard here for me so I will try
a new bearing with a shim between hub and bearing and some bearing seating
compound,
Thanks again,
Pieter
On 13/11/2011, at 3:34 AM, richard mayor wrote:

> I doubt that it is a worn bearing. These bearings never seem to wear out.
What usually happens (for whatever reason) is that hub gets loose and the
inside spacer ring (it may be called a "distance piece")  no longer pinches
the bearing properly so that the outer race of the bearing then begins to spin
in the hub. This allows the outer bearing race to grind itself deeper into the
hub. The spacer ring is now useless and the hub can rock. If the bearing has
not gone too deep, you can drive out the studs and machine the face of the
hub. The ring is supposed to stand proud of the hub, with the gasket in place,
about .002" or .003". Check the manual on this for the exact amount. If the
bearing is too deep into the hub then you must replace the hub. You may also
have to use a bearing retaining compound to install the bearing into the hub
as it may no longer be a snug fit.
>
> Richard Mayor
> BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
> Portland, Oregon
>
>
> > From: pieters at pt.lu
> > Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:24:02 +0100
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing
> >
> > I am looking to verify a diagnosis. I am running rear disc brakes and
have
> > developed a rythmic clicking noise from the right rear that stops when
the
> > brakes are applied lightly. I thought I had a warped disc and the noise
was
> > the disc slapping the brake pad on each rotation. I jacked up the rear
and
> > found I could move both rear wheels in and out slightly but the right rear
I
> > can "rock" . That is if I grab the front and rear of the tyre I can pull
the
> > front out and rear in and vice versa. Rims are near new and the splines
are in
> > good condition. The wheel spinners were of course tight.
> >
> > I suspect it is wear in the hub bearing as I have disassembled the right
rear
> > and can find nothing else broken or worn. The bearing runs quietly but
there
> > is some in out play.
> >
> > It there anything else I should be checking before I order new bearing
etc?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Pieter
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From sebring at hotkey.net.au  Sun Nov 13 02:29:38 2011
From: sebring at hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 20:29:38 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Flared Fenders
In-Reply-To: <1321017782.93926.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321017782.93926.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4EBF8E02.1070203@hotkey.net.au>

BLOKES

I have just read a detailed track test of John Chatham's  DD300 as raced 
in 1969 and it is almost unrecogniseable to all except the serious and 
long term Healey history types;

10 inch wide JA Pearce mag. wheels with FLARES
red body with a wide white stripe across the guards and bonnet, from one 
wheel arch to the other.

Current trend in Australia is to cut the fenders from the headlight back 
to the windscreen and insert approx 23 30 mm of metal and thus maintain 
the standard appearance but provide cover for widened rims.  Very hard 
to detect until you look at the wheel offset and ask, how did they do thaf?


HealeyRick wrote:

>I agree with Derek.  Ultimately, the decision to stray away from stock is a
>personal one and the modifier has to be willing to accept the potential loss
>of value that usually accompanies a highly visible mod.  I really like the
>looks of the Healey blue car you've pictured.  And you're definitely on the
>right track with wheel selection.  The center-laced Cobra style wheels really
>make the look of that car.
>
>Rick
>
>
>Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
>--- On Fri, 11/11/11, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flared Fenders
>To: "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca>
>Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>Date: Friday, November 11, 2011, 2:35 AM
>
>Paul,
>
>My personal view is that they look OK if you are going for the full Race /
>Rally look as per the photos you posted. If not I'd stick with regular
>fenders.
>
>You might also consider having flared fenders only on the front. I've seen
>that done before and I think I prefer it.
>
>regards
>
>Derek
>On Thu, Nov 10, 2011 at 12:27 AM, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>
>>
>>I couple of years ago, I acquired 4 ali fenders from Cape International in
>>the UK.
>>
>>
>>
>>The fenders I acquired are flared about 1".   I'm now having second
>>thoughts
>>about the flaring and whether to go back to no flared stock.
>>
>>
>>
>>I've only seen a couple of pictures of cars with the flares and I'm not
>>sure
>>if it's what I want.  If I did go with the flares, I would get offset wire
>>wheels so that they filled out the wheel well.
>>
>>
>>
>>I would be interested in hearing back from the list as  to their opinions
>>and seeing additional pictures of cars with flares if anybody has any.
>>    
>>
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring at hotkey.net.au

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov 13 02:40:39 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 10:40:39 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <4EBE4AC2.2070607@chello.nl>
References: <4EBE4AC2.2070607@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4EBF9097.5060802@chello.nl>

Onderwerp: 	Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
Datum: 	Sat, 12 Nov 2011 11:30:26 +0100
Van: 	Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Aan: 	Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>



near side, off side, left hand side, right hannd side, LHD, RHD!!  It
all gets complicated with all the possibilities, habits, nationality,
country, e.g. near side in the USA is off side in the UK.
Right and left is as seen from the perspective of the driver sitting in
his car.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL (where near side is right hand side)





Op 12-11-2011 11:13, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>  I always get confused with this "right" "left" thing on Healeys on an
>  international email list.
>  My Healey is right hand drive. So when I sit in my Healey, my
>  passenger is on my left, from my perspective.
>  So if people say "right" or "left" is that from the perspective of
>  sitting in the car, or from standing in front of it???
>  At least "near side" (nearest to kerb) and "off side" give a
>  perspective of the view!
>  All the lines (fuel, brake) run down the same side on the chassis on
>  my RHD Healey. That would be my drivers side. Or the off side. Or the
>  left hand side facing my car when standing in front of it.
>  Perspective.
>  No matter which direction I face, my right hand is never confused with
>  my left....
>  So that would be the right Hand side, standing at the front, looking
>  at the car, David????
>  I'm not being a smartarse.
>  My Healeys have always been RHD. As sold from the factory.
>  And I never knew a pedal box could interfere with a HD8!!
>  sincerely.
>  Chris.
>
>  Sent from my iPhone
>
>  On 12/11/2011, at 2:09 PM, David Nock<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>  wrote:
>
>>  No the brake lines run down the right frame rail then to the rear end
>>  and
>>  cross from left to right
>>
>>  David Nock
>>  British Car Specialists
>>  Stockton Ca
>>  www.britishcarspecialists.com
>>
>>  On Nov 10, 2011, at 5:20 PM, HealeyRick wrote:
>>
>>>  David,
>>>
>>>  Isn't the right rear farther away from the M/C than the left rear in
>>>  a LHD
>>  car?
>>>
>>>  Rick
>>>
>>>  Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>>>
>>>  --- On Wed, 11/9/11, David Nock<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>  wrote:
>>>
>>>  From: David Nock<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>>>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
>>>  To: "Richard Kahn"<tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
>>>  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>>>  Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 11:28 AM
>>>
>>>  When bleeding brakes always work from the longest distance to the
>>>  shortest distance from the master cylinder. On all the Healeys you
>>>  would do left rear, right rear, left front, right front.  No reason
>>>  to start at the master unless you are installing a new master cylinder
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  On Nov 8, 2011, at 9:37 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>>>
>>>>  I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch
>>>>  too).  I'm
>>>>  getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure.
>>>>  The next push
>>>>  gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-
>>>>  bleed, I'm
>>>>  guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right
>>>>  front wheel.
>>>>  Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master
>>>>  cylinder?
>>>>  Thanks for all the earlier advice.
>>>>  Rich Kah
>  _______________________________________________
>  Healeys at autox.team.net
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
>  -----
>  Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>  Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>  Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4611 - datum van uitgifte:
>  11/11/11

From edic at tampabay.rr.com  Sun Nov 13 06:40:10 2011
From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 08:40:10 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Oil Alert For Older Cars
Message-ID: <4EBFC8BA.000006.03116@MEL-HP>

I know this subject has been discussed before, but just in case some newer
members are not aware, I am submitting this article to the list.

http://goo.gl/TNxyw



 Mel Brunet
HBJ8L39749
Land O Lakes, Fl

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of stampa_girl_line_en.gif]

From rich_holman at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 13 09:55:05 2011
From: rich_holman at yahoo.com (Rich Holman)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 08:55:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Oil Alert For Older Cars
In-Reply-To: <4EBFC8BA.000006.03116@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <1321203305.95248.YahooMailClassic@web161601.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I switched to Rotella T three years ago and have had no problems.  In fact it
starts easier that with the Valvoline Racing Oil I was using.
Rich57 BN4

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Nov 13 12:23:16 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 11:23:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Oil Alert For Older Cars
In-Reply-To: <4EBFC8BA.000006.03116@MEL-HP>
References: <4EBFC8BA.000006.03116@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <4EC01924.8020209@comcast.net>

EOS is still available.


Bob



On 11/13/2011 5:40 AM, edic at tampabay.rr.com wrote:
> I know this subject has been discussed before, but just in case some newer
> members are not aware, I am submitting this article to the list.
>
> http://goo.gl/TNxyw
>
>
>
>   Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L39749
> Land O Lakes, Fl
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 13 14:33:38 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:33:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Ride Along
Message-ID: <1321220018.27049.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

All the hard work is done and the small block Ford V-8 is nestled happily under the bonnet of my BJ7. Come along for a ride:


http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,27183

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Sun Nov 13 15:01:25 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 16:01:25 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Ride Along
In-Reply-To: <1321220018.27049.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321220018.27049.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAKBTmU5KF_S+h=q6-BR4U4rQ=fUsoBiJFjXRC27i_YCbLGYxXA@mail.gmail.com>

rick,
sounds great and appears to handle well also.  again, congrats!!
cheers,
jerry

On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 3:33 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

> All the hard work is done and the small block Ford V-8 is nestled happily
> under the bonnet of my BJ7. Come along for a ride:
>
>
> http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,27183
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From amalin at mac.com  Sun Nov 13 15:59:11 2011
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:59:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Ride Along
In-Reply-To: <1321220018.27049.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321220018.27049.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0C0DB28A-C3A3-4292-904C-D1D56BE708AD@mac.com>

Rick,

Very nice.

I bought a radar detector after a recent ticket --- with that engine you may want one, too.

Al Malin


On Nov 13, 2011, at 4:33 PM, HealeyRick wrote:

> All the hard work is done and the small block Ford V-8 is nestled happily under the bonnet of my BJ7. Come along for a ride:
> 
> 
> http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,27183
> 
> Rick

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 13 17:43:23 2011
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:43:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <4EBF9097.5060802@chello.nl>
References: <4EBE4AC2.2070607@chello.nl> <4EBF9097.5060802@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BLU166-ds16EF01A41F429D6BA2907FB3C00@phx.gbl>

When one is driving the car (either RHD or LHD) and is told to "turn right", 
which way would most of us turn?  We turn "right".  I feel that that makes 
that side of the car the "right" side, agreeing with Kees & others.
GaryB

-----Original Message----- 
From: Oudesluys
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 4:40 AM
To: 4 - Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: re-bleeding brakes

Onderwerp: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
Datum: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 11:30:26 +0100
Van: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Aan: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>



near side, off side, left hand side, right hannd side, LHD, RHD!!  It
all gets complicated with all the possibilities, habits, nationality,
country, e.g. near side in the USA is off side in the UK.
Right and left is as seen from the perspective of the driver sitting in
his car.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL (where near side is right hand side)





Op 12-11-2011 11:13, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>  I always get confused with this "right" "left" thing on Healeys on an
>  international email list.
>  My Healey is right hand drive. So when I sit in my Healey, my
>  passenger is on my left, from my perspective.
>  So if people say "right" or "left" is that from the perspective of
>  sitting in the car, or from standing in front of it???
>  At least "near side" (nearest to kerb) and "off side" give a
>  perspective of the view!
>  All the lines (fuel, brake) run down the same side on the chassis on
>  my RHD Healey. That would be my drivers side. Or the off side. Or the
>  left hand side facing my car when standing in front of it.
>  Perspective.
>  No matter which direction I face, my right hand is never confused with
>  my left....
>  So that would be the right Hand side, standing at the front, looking
>  at the car, David????
>  I'm not being a smartarse.
>  My Healeys have always been RHD. As sold from the factory.
>  And I never knew a pedal box could interfere with a HD8!!
>  sincerely.
>  Chris.
>
>  Sent from my iPhone
>
>  On 12/11/2011, at 2:09 PM, David Nock<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>  wrote:
>
>>  No the brake lines run down the right frame rail then to the rear end
>>  and
>>  cross from left to right
>>
>>  David Nock
>>  British Car Specialists
>>  Stockton Ca
>>  www.britishcarspecialists.com
>>
>>  On Nov 10, 2011, at 5:20 PM, HealeyRick wrote:
>>
>>>  David,
>>>
>>>  Isn't the right rear farther away from the M/C than the left rear in
>>>  a LHD
>>  car?
>>>
>>>  Rick
>>>
>>>  Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>>>
>>>  --- On Wed, 11/9/11, David Nock<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>  wrote:
>>>
>>>  From: David Nock<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>>>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
>>>  To: "Richard Kahn"<tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
>>>  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>>>  Date: Wednesday, November 9, 2011, 11:28 AM
>>>
>>>  When bleeding brakes always work from the longest distance to the
>>>  shortest distance from the master cylinder. On all the Healeys you
>>>  would do left rear, right rear, left front, right front.  No reason
>>>  to start at the master unless you are installing a new master cylinder
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  On Nov 8, 2011, at 9:37 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>>>
>>>>  I spent the day replacing the brake master cylinder (and clutch
>>>>  too).  I'm
>>>>  getting good braking with a little travel on the first pressure.
>>>>  The next push
>>>>  gives less pedal travel with again good braking. I need to re-
>>>>  bleed, I'm
>>>>  guessing.While bleeding the right rear, I had a leak at the right
>>>>  front wheel.
>>>>  Is that a good guess as to where to begin? Or back at the master
>>>>  cylinder?
>>>>  Thanks for all the earlier advice.
>>>>  Rich Kah
>  _______________________________________________
>  Healeys at autox.team.net
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
>  -----
>  Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>  Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>  Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4611 - datum van uitgifte:
>  11/11/11
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton at hotmail.com 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Nov 13 18:20:21 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 20:20:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  re-bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <BLU166-ds16EF01A41F429D6BA2907FB3C00@phx.gbl>
References: <4EBE4AC2.2070607@chello.nl> <4EBF9097.5060802@chello.nl>
	<BLU166-ds16EF01A41F429D6BA2907FB3C00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005101cca26b$94777980$bd666c80$@verizon.net>

Your solution to this very monumental problem is too logical and does not
fit into the realm of Healeydom where the illogical often is the logical.
(tongue in cheek as I continue to tackle problems left to me from the DPO -
now replacing pop rivets where my original parts list shows clearly that
they do not belong.)

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary R. Brierton
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 7:43 PM
To: Oudesluys; 4 - Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: re-bleeding brakes

When one is driving the car (either RHD or LHD) and is told to "turn right",
which way would most of us turn?  We turn "right".  I feel that that makes
that side of the car the "right" side, agreeing with Kees & others.
GaryB

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 4:40 AM
To: 4 - Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: re-bleeding brakes

Onderwerp: Re: [Healeys] re-bleeding brakes
Datum: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 11:30:26 +0100
Van: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Aan: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Nov 13 20:19:42 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:19:42 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone in Detroit, MI area?
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKrkgHj8rAa-Z=L-uOcJ1Pb2jWCCJ8u74QqAfekUquCrw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKrkgHj8rAa-Z=L-uOcJ1Pb2jWCCJ8u74QqAfekUquCrw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLbOmqictmQp3Ze1NhBDfB9+96m7LHuhPExfb8f88RP=A@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All -

I just wanted to get back to everyone in Michigan who has offered to help.
 I am completely blown away by the hospitality and the MULTIPLE kind offers
to help.

At this time I will probably need to sort stuff out with my shipper on
Monday (hopefully) and if so I will know better if I need help or not.  I
really appreciate this, it's not fun dealing with this from Hong Kong, let
me tell you!

Best Regards,

Alan

On Sat, Nov 12, 2011 at 5:28 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm not sure yet but I may need some help with my BN1 which is
> currently in storage there.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Alan
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Nov 14 03:52:17 2011
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 10:52:17 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 front bumper
Message-ID: <1321267937.88805.YahooMailNeo@web24001.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

 The plating is starting to peal on my BN2's front bumper. I have been quoted
#150 - #200 (that's GBP) plus the dreaded VAT for a strip and re-chrome. A
replacement bumper from AHSpares is #189 plus VAT. I would be keen to get the
original chromed if indeed it really is the original. Any clues as to how I
can tell if I still have the original bumper?

Rgds

Mike Brooks
'56 BN2
Scotland
Reply to: mike.brooks at alumni.warwick.ac.uk 

From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 14 07:58:46 2011
From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 06:58:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
Message-ID: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

hi same old question i have a 3000 bj8 that sits just way too high in the rear springs have been on for yrs and still not settling one solution is using lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding them any one have this prob and know where to get them or what to do 

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon Nov 14 08:20:27 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 15:20:27 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001c01cca2e0$f0563fa0$d102bee0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Not an issue that I've encountered here, on the list, or anywhere. Usually,
3000s sit too low, don't they? Are the springs the usual ones? Has someone
done something (too) clever to the shocks or something? If it's not a
standard setup, people will be hard pushed to make useful comments....
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ralph Cap
Sent: 14 November 2011 14:59
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks

hi same old question i have a 3000 bj8 that sits just way too high in the
rear springs have been on for yrs and still not settling one solution is
using lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding them any one have
this prob and know where to get them or what to do 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 14 09:16:54 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:16:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJTyXLQq47VpJ3V8+aCSib4Q4R8qdu1QO=E_D8D1qxPnP8LDkA@mail.gmail.com>

The lowering blocks that I used on my 49 Ford back in the 50s were
nothing but 1/4 in steel rectangles that any machine shop could make.
I had 4" blocks on the Ford, very extreme. I can't imagine that you
would want very much lowering though. You would probably need to get
the U-bolts fabricated as well to get the extra length.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 14 09:35:58 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 08:35:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 heater tap at water pump
In-Reply-To: <4EBF04D1.1040709@iinet.net.au>
References: <4EBF04D1.1040709@iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <6C89084C-1A30-439E-9D78-D4C31E4B471B@sbcglobal.net>

Noel, we have these available used




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 12, 2011, at 3:44 PM, Noel and Helen standfast wrote:

> Hi Listers
>
> I am looking for a heater control tap for the original cast iron  
> water pump on my BN1 and I can't find a new one in the catalogues  
> of the usual suppliers, does anyone know where I can buy one or  
> alternately is any one willing to sell me a good second hand one?   
> Also I need to clean up the thread in the water pump after drilling  
> out a stubborn plug, the thread appears to be an unusual 16 TPI  
> thread, is it 5/8 x 16 Whitworth?
>
> thanks
>
>
> Noel S
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From dlcaudle at morrisbb.net  Mon Nov 14 09:41:11 2011
From: dlcaudle at morrisbb.net (J. David & Lisa Caudle)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:41:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <CAJTyXLQq47VpJ3V8+aCSib4Q4R8qdu1QO=E_D8D1qxPnP8LDkA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAJTyXLQq47VpJ3V8+aCSib4Q4R8qdu1QO=E_D8D1qxPnP8LDkA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000601cca2ec$381a48d0$a84eda70$@net>

I lowered my bj8 and my mechanic picked up u bolts at the NAPA store and
placed 1/2 inch (?) block in to lower. This gave the look I wanted.
Dave Caudle

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 11:17 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] lowering blocks

The lowering blocks that I used on my 49 Ford back in the 50s were
nothing but 1/4 in steel rectangles that any machine shop could make.
I had 4" blocks on the Ford, very extreme. I can't imagine that you
would want very much lowering though. You would probably need to get
the U-bolts fabricated as well to get the extra length.

Bob Johnson
BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dlcaudle at morrisbb.net

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Mon Nov 14 10:02:53 2011
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 12:02:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLfkniQmvoajkikOYBxi+Z5N4ZocDD_bqGFSAy-aiBGHg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Ralph I presume that you are aware that a post 65 BJ8 does sit 1" higher
than the earlier cars; as I recall the distance from the top of the wheel
arch should be 28 1/2" (someone correct me if that is wrong) both front and
rear.
However that said, if you are going to use lowering blocks to bring the car
down to the correct height you will also have to find some longer U bolts
of the correct arch and material diameter which can be difficult.
I have found that the best thing to use for such blocks is billet aluminum
which you can purchase at most metal supply houses. U can use several
layers of 1/4" material to provide adjustment as required. The supply house
may be able to cut them to size for you but you will probably have to drill
the holes yourself using the spring alignment plate as a guide. Don't
forget to drill a hole for the axle locating pin and keep the holes for the
U bolts accurate to size to prevent the axle from shifting back and forth.
I do recall taking the rear of an ex race car apart many years ago and
finding lowering blocks made of hardwood which looked as though they had
been there for years!!
Michael S

On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 9:58 AM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> hi same old question i have a 3000 bj8 that sits just way too high in the
> rear springs have been on for yrs and still not settling one solution is
> using lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding them any one have
> this prob and know where to get them or what to do
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 14 10:19:47 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:19:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] bleeding the bloody brakes again
Message-ID: <COL121-W12C6D7DB26DF5C7DA1D364A4C00@phx.gbl>

I just did another round of wheel cylinder bleeding (after replacing the
master cylinder). I am getting 2 to 3 inches of play before the brakes become
hard pedal. If I pump the pedal a couple of times I get 1 inch of free play
before hard pedal. Is this correct or acceptable? This is getting old.
Rich Kahn

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Nov 14 10:28:22 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 12:28:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ford V*
Message-ID: <24bbe.136b66c6.3bf2a9b6@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/14/11 8:52:30 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> All the hard work is done and the small block Ford V-8 is nestled happily 
> under the bonnet of my BJ7. Come along for a ride:
> 

Which engine/which year did you use?   
G.

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 14 10:56:34 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:56:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
Message-ID: <CACPMnYqMWuhyrNTR_=eN_ssDZGv0=ZLZ6+KGrTR4Dei=a_Dn_g@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy,
 My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top
Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix?
Other than replace the radiator? Is there a product out there that you have
used to seal the threads on a pressurized system that works.
Thanks

-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From dlcaudle at morrisbb.net  Mon Nov 14 11:08:11 2011
From: dlcaudle at morrisbb.net (J. David & Lisa Caudle)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 13:08:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <CAJTyXLQq47VpJ3V8+aCSib4Q4R8qdu1QO=E_D8D1qxPnP8LDkA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAJTyXLQq47VpJ3V8+aCSib4Q4R8qdu1QO=E_D8D1qxPnP8LDkA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001a01cca2f8$5f622b40$1e2681c0$@net>

I lowered my bj8 and my mechanic picked up u bolts at the NAPA store and
placed 1/2 inch (?) block in to lower. This gave the look I wanted.
Dave Caudle


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 11:17 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] lowering blocks

The lowering blocks that I used on my 49 Ford back in the 50s were
nothing but 1/4 in steel rectangles that any machine shop could make.
I had 4" blocks on the Ford, very extreme. I can't imagine that you
would want very much lowering though. You would probably need to get
the U-bolts fabricated as well to get the extra length.

Bob Johnson
BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dlcaudle at morrisbb.net

From dlcaudle at morrisbb.net  Mon Nov 14 11:23:51 2011
From: dlcaudle at morrisbb.net (J. David & Lisa Caudle)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 13:23:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
References: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAJTyXLQq47VpJ3V8+aCSib4Q4R8qdu1QO=E_D8D1qxPnP8LDkA@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <002101cca2fa$8f9e6d30$aedb4790$@net>

I lowered my bj8 and my mechanic picked up u bolts at the NAPA store and
placed 1/2 inch (?) block in to lower. This gave the look I wanted.
Dave Caudle

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 11:17 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] lowering blocks

The lowering blocks that I used on my 49 Ford back in the 50s were
nothing but 1/4 in steel rectangles that any machine shop could make.
I had 4" blocks on the Ford, very extreme. I can't imagine that you
would want very much lowering though. You would probably need to get
the U-bolts fabricated as well to get the extra length.

Bob Johnson
BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dlcaudle at morrisbb.net

From ghess4 at cox.net  Mon Nov 14 11:30:41 2011
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 10:30:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FDD98B37C4C845648CF628C55057DDB1@GalePC>

Ralph, you might want to talk to Martin Jansen at 
jule_interprisesah at yahoo.com .  He has a replacement rear springs for the 
BJ8 that leveled my car perfectly.
Regards
Gale Hess

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ralph Cap" <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 6:58 AM
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks


> hi same old question i have a 3000 bj8 that sits just way too high in the 
> rear springs have been on for yrs and still not settling one solution is 
> using lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding them any one have 
> this prob and know where to get them or what to do
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghess4 at cox.net

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Mon Nov 14 11:48:04 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 10:48:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Starting Problem - Solved
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D71@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

Apparently the field coil in the starter was bad.  Had it re-done
locally for a very reasonable price and all seems well.

Looking into why/how heat would affect a field coil to satisfy my
curiosity now.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov 14 12:02:46 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:02:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYqMWuhyrNTR_=eN_ssDZGv0=ZLZ6+KGrTR4Dei=a_Dn_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1503692928.1880505.1321297366912.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Is it a machine or pipe thread? Either way, I believe there are thread inserts available; I'd go with that (use red threadlocker to both lock and seal the threads on the outside of the insert). No goop, tape, etc. is going to do the job (for long). 

Better to do it right than spring for a new transmission when the half-arsed 'fix' fails and you lose your fluid. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Howdy, 
My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top 
Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix? 
Other than replace the radiator? Is there a product out there that you have 
used to seal the threads on a pressurized system that works. 
Thanks 

-- 
Ira Erbs 
Portland, OR 
_______ _______ 
(______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) 
(_________________________) 
_______________________________________________ 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Nov 14 12:10:05 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:10:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYqMWuhyrNTR_=eN_ssDZGv0=ZLZ6+KGrTR4Dei=a_Dn_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYqMWuhyrNTR_=eN_ssDZGv0=ZLZ6+KGrTR4Dei=a_Dn_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TreLrosSBwWwOwHZE4D1xz7nO8Z_px-aN-40ywxj4x2rQ@mail.gmail.com>

Been there, done that.
If the fitting is like other tranny lines I have seen, it is a flare
fitting, so the threads don't do the sealing, the flare does.
Again assuming you damaged the threads like I have, the damage is on the
radiator, and the cooler lines are fine
Go get a small triangular file and dress the threads on the radiator until
you can thread it on correctly.
Good luck
Rick

On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 9:56 AM, I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Howdy,
>  My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top
> Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix?
> Other than replace the radiator? Is there a product out there that you have
> used to seal the threads on a pressurized system that works.
> Thanks
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>   _______                                  _______
>     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>         (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From robertlarson at att.net  Mon Nov 14 12:33:40 2011
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 14:33:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYqMWuhyrNTR_=eN_ssDZGv0=ZLZ6+KGrTR4Dei=a_Dn_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYqMWuhyrNTR_=eN_ssDZGv0=ZLZ6+KGrTR4Dei=a_Dn_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EC16D14.3000204@att.net>

Hi Ira,

            A couple of years ago repaired a radiator that had the A/C system 
running thru it on a 99
Nissan.  Almost $350 for the radiator or a $45 gamble on a Helicoil kit from 
McMaster Carr. The
gamble worked just fine was still holding even for the next owner of the car. Here:


http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-repair-kits/=exm7zr

Bob

On 11/14/2011 12:56 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> Howdy,
>   My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top
> Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix?
> Other than replace the radiator? Is there a product out there that you have
> used to seal the threads on a pressurized system that works.
> Thanks

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 14 12:35:34 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:35:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear lowering blocks - easy to do.
In-Reply-To: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1321299334.84197.YahooMailClassic@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ralph, I also have a 65BJ8 that suffered from the high rear end problem that
was brought about by the suspension redesign on the 65-67 cars.  The factory
did this to help with the ground clearance of the rear transverse mufflers,
but the result was an ugly gap between the rear tire top and the body wheel
arch.
I hated it so I had some simple blocks made to lower the car back to the 63-64
height where the tire is concentric with the body arch. Looke 500% better with
no reide degredation.
The blocks are easy to have cnc machined from a solid alu bar/block, and don't
cost much.  I can send you a dimensioned drawing of my block if you want it.
You can also make the 2 sides different height to accomodate a lazy drivers
side rear spring if your springs are original.  I did that as my drivers side
was about 1/2 inch lower at the wheel arch.  Now the car sits level and
correct height as I wanted.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com


--- On Mon, 11/14/11, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, November 14, 2011, 6:58 AM
> hi same old question i have a 3000
> bj8 that sits just way too high in the rear springs have
> been on for yrs and still not settling one solution is using
> lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding them any
> one have this prob and know where to get them or what to do

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Nov 14 12:39:16 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 14:39:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20111114143916.GQSBD.41502.root@pamxwww10-z01>

When I bought new springs for mine I took them to a commercial spring company had had them "pre-stressed" about 25% which gave me a good looking ride height.  I hate the jacked up look of the BJ8 with new springs.

tom
---- Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
hi same old question i have a 3000 bj8 that sits just way too high in the rear springs have been on for yrs and still not settling one solution is using lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding them any one have this prob and know where to get them or what to do 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov 14 12:41:47 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:41:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Starting Problem - Solved
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18D71@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <1393087197.1883055.1321299707661.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: "... Looking into why/how heat would affect a field coil ..." 

(SPOILER ALERT) 

Heat increases resistance (to current flow). Not enough current, not enough electromagnetism in the coils. 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Apparently the field coil in the starter was bad. Had it re-done 
locally for a very reasonable price and all seems well. 

Looking into why/how heat would affect a field coil to satisfy my 
curiosity now. 


Jonas Payne 
PBR 
Cell: (702) 358-5084 
_______________________________________________ 

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 14 12:58:15 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:58:15 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <1503692928.1880505.1321297366912.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.eme
	ryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CACPMnYqMWuhyrNTR_=eN_ssDZGv0=ZLZ6+KGrTR4Dei=a_Dn_g@mail.gmail.com>
	<1503692928.1880505.1321297366912.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111114115540.020f0cd0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Loctite has a product called Quicktape 249. I have not used it but it 
is a medium strength thread locker tape like there blue liquid 
product. I believe it would be good for your application. Check it 
out at the Loctite website.

John

At 07:02 PM 11/14/2011 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote:
>Is it a machine or pipe thread? Either way, I believe there are 
>thread inserts available; I'd go with that (use red threadlocker to 
>both lock and seal the threads on the outside of the insert). No 
>goop, tape, etc. is going to do the job (for long).
>Bob
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>Howdy,
>My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top
>Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix?
>Ira Erbs

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Nov 14 13:19:05 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 15:19:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <1503692928.1880505.1321297366912.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CACPMnYqMWuhyrNTR_=eN_ssDZGv0=ZLZ6+KGrTR4Dei=a_Dn_g@mail.gmail.com>
	<1503692928.1880505.1321297366912.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4t8pzDa5zhceF3dBn6qw6LwvYRm-hHDuvWNcsnR-0wow@mail.gmail.com>

I just repaired the stripped threads on the magnesium differential housing
of my sportsracer using these:   www.*ezlok*.com

They're way better than using Helicoils or the like which are simply
springs--here you are actually putting new material into the metal for a
permanent fix.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 2:02 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Is it a machine or pipe thread? Either way, I believe there are thread
> inserts available; I'd go with that (use red threadlocker to both lock and
> seal the threads on the outside of the insert). No goop, tape, etc. is
> going to do the job (for long).
>
> Better to do it right than spring for a new transmission when the
> half-arsed 'fix' fails and you lose your fluid.
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> Howdy,
> My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top
> Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix?
> Other than replace the radiator? Is there a product out there that you have
> used to seal the threads on a pressurized system that works.
> Thanks
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov 14 14:08:57 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 21:08:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111114115540.020f0cd0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <406725946.1888796.1321304937348.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have a roll of this. Good for when the liquid just won't do (runs off too fast), but it's not for thread repair. 

Also, very expensive ($20+ for a roll). 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Loctite has a product called Quicktape 249. I have not used it but it 
is a medium strength thread locker tape like there blue liquid 
product. I believe it would be good for your application. Check it 
out at the Loctite website. 

John 

At 07:02 PM 11/14/2011 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote: 
>Is it a machine or pipe thread? Either way, I believe there are 
>thread inserts available; I'd go with that (use red threadlocker to 
>both lock and seal the threads on the outside of the insert). No 
>goop, tape, etc. is going to do the job (for long). 
>Bob 
> 
>----- Original Message ----- 
> 
> 
>Howdy, 
>My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top 
>Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix? 
>Ira Erbs 

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Nov 14 14:52:24 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 08:52:24 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321282726.95285.YahooMailClassic@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9BE90FAE-315C-4ED1-B9FD-23FBA5F8E217@gmail.com>

If you head down this path, as others mentioned, you need lowering  
blocks and longer U bolts. Depending on how much you lower the car,  
you also need a longer centre bolt. The centre bolt passes through the  
spring to lock it down, and the round head of the centre bolt needs to  
also pass through the lowering block, and engage in the hole in the  
diff banjo. It must engage in the diff banjo.
I'm sure you can buy all this stuff off the shelf now, but when I did  
it 15 years ago, we had to make the lowering blocks and a new longer  
centre bolt. My lowering blocks are about (from memory) 2 3/4 inches  
passengers side and 2 1/4 inches drivers side.
Best chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 15/11/2011, at 1:58 AM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> hi same old question i have a 3000 bj8 that sits just way too high  
> in the rear springs have been on for yrs and still not settling one  
> solution is using lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding  
> them any one have this prob and know where to get them or what to do
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Nov 14 14:55:04 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 16:55:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <406725946.1888796.1321304937348.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111114115540.020f0cd0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<406725946.1888796.1321304937348.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6eAbTTP4Os_fDa9V-NJNk-9HJKgGmU3QB-3JpLbBN8hA@mail.gmail.com>

As I recall Ira said the fitting was cross-threaded.  If he wants to repair
it he should use an insert--if he only wants to fix it he may as well use
JB Weld.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 4:08 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I have a roll of this. Good for when the liquid just won't do (runs off
> too fast), but it's not for thread repair.
>
> Also, very expensive ($20+ for a roll).
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> Loctite has a product called Quicktape 249. I have not used it but it
> is a medium strength thread locker tape like there blue liquid
> product. I believe it would be good for your application. Check it
> out at the Loctite website.
>
> John
>
> At 07:02 PM 11/14/2011 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote:
> >Is it a machine or pipe thread? Either way, I believe there are
> >thread inserts available; I'd go with that (use red threadlocker to
> >both lock and seal the threads on the outside of the insert). No
> >goop, tape, etc. is going to do the job (for long).
> >Bob
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >
> >
> >Howdy,
> >My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top
> >Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix?
> >Ira Erbs
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From gardner5 at comcast.net  Mon Nov 14 15:35:26 2011
From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 22:35:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] lowering blocks
In-Reply-To: <9BE90FAE-315C-4ED1-B9FD-23FBA5F8E217@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351503203.2373971.1321310126208.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I had mine machined from Stainless Steel and had a hole machined on the bottom
surface where the centerbolt of the leaf spring engages B and a corresponding
dowel machined to the exact dimensions of the centerbolt that wasB  inserted
on the top surface .B  Also had U-bolts made to the new specs (about 1.5inch
change).B  Shortly after having gone through this effort, I found a kit (I
just can't remember where) in a catalog of Healey parts and upgrades.B  The
kit consists of 2 aluminum blocks, I think 2/3 inch, and longer U-bolts.B  The
blocks look for similar to the ones IB designed and had machined.B  Mine were
just 1/2 inch bigger. B  So you can probably find this online somewhere if the
dimesions work for you.



Joel

BN2



----- Original Message -----


From: "Chris Dimmock" <austin.healey at gmail.com>
To: "Ralph Cap" <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 3:52:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] lowering blocks

If you head down this path, as others mentioned, you need lowering B 
blocks and longer U bolts. Depending on how much you lower the car, B 
you also need a longer centre bolt. The centre bolt passes through the B 
spring to lock it down, and the round head of the centre bolt needs to B 
also pass through the lowering block, and engage in the hole in the B 
diff banjo. It must engage in the diff banjo.
I'm sure you can buy all this stuff off the shelf now, but when I did B 
it 15 years ago, we had to make the lowering blocks and a new longer B 
centre bolt. My lowering blocks are about (from memory) 2 3/4 inches B 
passengers side and 2 1/4 inches drivers side.
Best chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 15/11/2011, at 1:58 AM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> hi same old question i have a 3000 bj8 that sits just way too high B 
> in the rear springs have been on for yrs and still not settling one B 
> solution is using lowering blocks but i'm having a hard time finding B 
> them any one have this prob and know where to get them or what to do
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation B $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gardner5 at comcast.net

From gblack at hextrans.com  Mon Nov 14 15:51:43 2011
From: gblack at hextrans.com (Gary Black)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 14:51:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Bleeding
Message-ID: <B65E84FE2CC6C84C9D90EBA33F9A12081945A78686@DRAGSTER.hextrans.com>

I had the same problem, unable to get the brakes properly bled. Turns out the
master cylinder, although new, was defective. Another new master cylinder
fixed the problem.


Gary Black, AICP
President
Hexagon Transportation Consultants, Inc.
San Jose | Gilroy | Phoenix | Pleasanton

111 W. St. John St, Suite 850 | San Jose, California 95113 | ' 408.971.6100 |
7 408.971.6102

www.hextrans.com<http://www.hextrans.com>
P  Please consider the environment before printing this material.

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 14 16:43:45 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 15:43:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ford V*
Message-ID: <1321314225.22967.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hi Gary,

I tried to do this swap with the least changes possible to the Healey, much
like Kent Lacy did with his 100M that you featured in 2007 in the
Austin-Healey Magazine.  (Kent was very kind and helpful in my swap, I might
add)  I also wanted it to look like a period swap.  The Ford 289 is in my view
the best choice for the Healey as it's narrower than the small block Chevy and
requires less cutting of the footwells.  Rather than finding an old 289, I
went with the modern equivalent.  It's a 5.0L 2001 Ford Explorer motor
converted to carb.  With a new cam, it dyno'ed at 345 hp at the crank.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 11/14/11, Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:

From: Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford V*
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, November 14, 2011, 12:28 PM

In a message dated 11/14/11 8:52:30 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> All the hard work is done and the small block Ford V-8 is nestled happily
> under the bonnet of my BJ7. Come along for a ride:
>

Which engine/which year did you use?   
G.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 14 17:22:08 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 16:22:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
Message-ID: <COL121-W28C496BF91BF335D19A291A4C10@phx.gbl>

Taking the advice of many on this forum, I re-adjusted the rear brakes and
drove ten miles. All seems well. No soft pedal. Hard at 1 1/2 inches of push.
I'll wait and see what it is like after sitting a couple of days. Thanks for
the suggestions and help. This ordeal got to me. I've done MGBs and Jags and
never had this much trouble.
Again thanks.
Rich Kahn

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 14 19:11:18 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 18:11:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6eAbTTP4Os_fDa9V-NJNk-9HJKgGmU3QB-3JpLbBN8hA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111114115540.020f0cd0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<406725946.1888796.1321304937348.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<CAPTa0B6eAbTTP4Os_fDa9V-NJNk-9HJKgGmU3QB-3JpLbBN8hA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYq1vVuCxCpPchE2n0HGDiTQT7Nr3LXeSBOABVn6e877wg@mail.gmail.com>

I want to fix it, so my son does not continue to have issues, but we bought
a new radiator and he cross threaded both fittings. I was able to repair
the bottom one, but the top is still leaking. He's a college kid working
part time and I'm way under employed.
I thought about JBweld, but did not know how it would handle the heat and
pressure from the tranny fluid.
Thanks all.

On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 1:55 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>wrote:

> As I recall Ira said the fitting was cross-threaded.  If he wants to repair
> it he should use an insert--if he only wants to fix it he may as well use
> JB Weld.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 4:08 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > I have a roll of this. Good for when the liquid just won't do (runs off
> > too fast), but it's not for thread repair.
> >
> > Also, very expensive ($20+ for a roll).
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------
> > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> >
> > Loctite has a product called Quicktape 249. I have not used it but it
> > is a medium strength thread locker tape like there blue liquid
> > product. I believe it would be good for your application. Check it
> > out at the Loctite website.
> >
> > John
> >
> > At 07:02 PM 11/14/2011 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote:
> > >Is it a machine or pipe thread? Either way, I believe there are
> > >thread inserts available; I'd go with that (use red threadlocker to
> > >both lock and seal the threads on the outside of the insert). No
> > >goop, tape, etc. is going to do the job (for long).
> > >Bob
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >
> > >
> > >Howdy,
> > >My son and I replaced the radiator in his Aerostar Ford van, The top
> > >Automatic tranny line got cross threaded. Has anyone come up with a fix?
> > >Ira Erbs
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 14 20:10:05 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:10:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] non Healey fix help
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYq1vVuCxCpPchE2n0HGDiTQT7Nr3LXeSBOABVn6e877wg@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111114115540.020f0cd0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<406725946.1888796.1321304937348.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<CAPTa0B6eAbTTP4Os_fDa9V-NJNk-9HJKgGmU3QB-3JpLbBN8hA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CACPMnYq1vVuCxCpPchE2n0HGDiTQT7Nr3LXeSBOABVn6e877wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111114190432.0210ec00@pop.att.yahoo.com>

There is J-B Kwik and J-B Weld. J-B Weld is slow drying and handles 
temperatures to 600 degrees F and has a tensile strength of 3960 PSI. 
Check the back of the product packaging if you still have it.
John

At 06:11 PM 11/14/2011 -0800, I Erbs wrote:
>I want to fix it, so my son does not continue to have issues, but we bought
>a new radiator and he cross threaded both fittings. I was able to repair
>the bottom one, but the top is still leaking. He's a college kid working
>part time and I'm way under employed.
>I thought about JBweld, but did not know how it would handle the heat and
>pressure from the tranny fluid.
>Thanks all.

From spartan0199 at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 15 14:08:18 2011
From: spartan0199 at hotmail.com (Justin Laborde)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 16:08:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Enjoy!
Message-ID: <BLU157-W48E497467022A39F7726F1A5C10@phx.gbl>

 What a nice present http://blog.joeyikemotophotography.com/inf.php Enjoy it!

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 15 15:04:14 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 14:04:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] More Spam Mial
Message-ID: <D69A7CD6-4B28-433F-9550-F6A059BB4024@sbcglobal.net>

Just received a mail from the list from Justin Laborde  Subject:  
Enjoy,    Its another one of those ones junk mailers came thru the  
list and has an attachment

From douglas.barker at videotron.ca  Tue Nov 15 15:28:46 2011
From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (Douglas Barker)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 17:28:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Enjoy!
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W48E497467022A39F7726F1A5C10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU157-W48E497467022A39F7726F1A5C10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <89D4709F7DEF45FB96C44F63DFBCC3D7@douglasPC>

can somebody get rid of this plague or shall we call the RCMP!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199 at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 4:08 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Enjoy!


> What a nice present http://blog.joeyikemotophotography.com/inf.php Enjoy 
> it!
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/douglas.barker at videotron.ca

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 15 15:34:45 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 14:34:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Enjoy!
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W48E497467022A39F7726F1A5C10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU157-W48E497467022A39F7726F1A5C10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYpZESRotO5MP7fg9j39CtVprf-JfWrTsXE4CkgnoJGAiA@mail.gmail.com>

Spam redirect do not hit link

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
On Nov 15, 2011 1:08 PM, "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199 at hotmail.com> wrote:

>  What a nice present http://blog.joeyikemotophotography.com/inf.php Enjoy
> it!
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Tue Nov 15 15:51:30 2011
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 17:51:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] More Spam Mial
In-Reply-To: <D69A7CD6-4B28-433F-9550-F6A059BB4024@sbcglobal.net>
References: <D69A7CD6-4B28-433F-9550-F6A059BB4024@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001301cca3e9$1daa28a0$58fe79e0$@mindspring.com>

Did it actually have an attachment?... If so, it probably didn't actually go
through the mail system.   Instead, it was spam that captured your email
address from someone else's computer and used the list email address as a
"cover".    It may even have come from that other person's computer because
they've had their computer converted to a "bot"   

(The term "bot", short for "robot", is what we in the cyber warfare world
call a computer that has been taken over by a "bot master" and used to
disguise the origin of messages.... the world of "bot" management is so
sophisticated that you can even rent bots by the hour!... Usually sold in
lots of 10,000 or 100,000 computers, the bot masters allow you to use those
computers for whatever nepharious purpose strikes your fancy.    And, if you
are having difficulty getting your bots to work for you, they even have
"help desks" where you can call for technical support!.... The cyber world
is rather complex nowadays.   It really pays to stay vigilant.)


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 5:04 PM
To: Healey List List
Subject: [Healeys] More Spam Mial

Just received a mail from the list from Justin Laborde  Subject:  
Enjoy,    Its another one of those ones junk mailers came thru the  
list and has an attachment

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Nov 15 16:05:46 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 18:05:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Enjoy!
In-Reply-To: <89D4709F7DEF45FB96C44F63DFBCC3D7@douglasPC>
References: <BLU157-W48E497467022A39F7726F1A5C10@phx.gbl>
	<89D4709F7DEF45FB96C44F63DFBCC3D7@douglasPC>
Message-ID: <00f501cca3eb$1c078a40$54169ec0$@verizon.net>

Spam, spoofing, etc. is a way of life in the digital age. Only two ways to
stop it -- never boot up your computer or shoot the guys who are doing it
except that it is impossible to find them. But if you shoot them and are
tried in a court of law, ask for a jury trial and you are sure to be
acquitted.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Douglas Barker
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 5:29 PM
To: Justin Laborde; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Enjoy!

can somebody get rid of this plague or shall we call the RCMP!

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 15 16:35:57 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 15:35:57 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] More Spam Mial
In-Reply-To: <001301cca3e9$1daa28a0$58fe79e0$@mindspring.com>
References: <D69A7CD6-4B28-433F-9550-F6A059BB4024@sbcglobal.net>
	<001301cca3e9$1daa28a0$58fe79e0$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYoq3J_n9LgVJ7ysLA7KUvV4ork8iAr_rWm3NutDHmNnBQ@mail.gmail.com>

came through in the body of the email I got

On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 2:51 PM, Skip Saunders <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>wrote:

> Did it actually have an attachment?... If so, it probably didn't actually
> go
> through the mail system.   Instead, it was spam that captured your email
> address from someone else's computer and used the list email address as a
> "cover".    It may even have come from that other person's computer because
> they've had their computer converted to a "bot"
>
> (The term "bot", short for "robot", is what we in the cyber warfare world
> call a computer that has been taken over by a "bot master" and used to
> disguise the origin of messages.... the world of "bot" management is so
> sophisticated that you can even rent bots by the hour!... Usually sold in
> lots of 10,000 or 100,000 computers, the bot masters allow you to use those
> computers for whatever nepharious purpose strikes your fancy.    And, if
> you
> are having difficulty getting your bots to work for you, they even have
> "help desks" where you can call for technical support!.... The cyber world
> is rather complex nowadays.   It really pays to stay vigilant.)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of David Nock
> Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 5:04 PM
> To: Healey List List
> Subject: [Healeys] More Spam Mial
>
> Just received a mail from the list from Justin Laborde  Subject:
> Enjoy,    Its another one of those ones junk mailers came thru the
> list and has an attachment
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From jwhlyadv at aol.com  Wed Nov 16 13:04:59 2011
From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 15:04:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed
In-Reply-To: <398328955.1321460389407.JavaMail.ysi@sjcprdngw02.prod.yousendit.com>
References: <398328955.1321460389407.JavaMail.ysi@sjcprdngw02.prod.yousendit.com>
Message-ID: <8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>

I keep getting this email and I don't like to open attachments or links from
strangers. Is this from AHCUSA or what?


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey J. Eakin <delivery at yousendit.com>
To: jwhlyadv <jwhlyadv at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Nov 16, 2011 11:19 am
Subject: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed



jeff.eakin at comcast.net has sent you the following via YouSendIt








Letter to Lapsed Members.pdf
Size: 60.14 KB    Content will be available for download until November 30,
2011 08:18 PST.


Download




If the above link does not work, you can paste the following address into your
browser:
https://rcpt.yousendit.com/1287383040/4f915b171da1c29ef5c152ce4d4dba3f










YouSendIt, Inc. | Privacy Policy
1919 S. Bascom Ave., Campbell, CA 95008

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Nov 16 13:57:24 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 15:57:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed
In-Reply-To: <8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
References: <398328955.1321460389407.JavaMail.ysi@sjcprdngw02.prod.yousendit.com>
	<8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <008201cca4a2$57678100$06368300$@rr.com>

Jeff Eakin is the editor of Austin-Healey Magazine, but it seems to me
messages to lapsed AHCUSA members should be handled by the Membership
Director.  I'll ask him.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Werner
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed

I keep getting this email and I don't like to open attachments or links from
strangers. Is this from AHCUSA or what?


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey J. Eakin <delivery at yousendit.com>
To: jwhlyadv <jwhlyadv at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Nov 16, 2011 11:19 am
Subject: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed



jeff.eakin at comcast.net has sent you the following via YouSendIt








Letter to Lapsed Members.pdf
Size: 60.14 KB    Content will be available for download until November 30,
2011 08:18 PST.


Download




If the above link does not work, you can paste the following address into
your
browser:
https://rcpt.yousendit.com/1287383040/4f915b171da1c29ef5c152ce4d4dba3f










YouSendIt, Inc. | Privacy Policy
1919 S. Bascom Ave., Campbell, CA 95008
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4620 - Release Date: 11/16/11

From roadwarriordave at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 16 13:59:45 2011
From: roadwarriordave at hotmail.com (Dave Murphy)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 15:59:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed
In-Reply-To: <8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
References: <398328955.1321460389407.JavaMail.ysi@sjcprdngw02.prod.yousendit.com>,
	<8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT133-W372DC197921A0517E2D408A3C60@phx.gbl>

Jim,
The message looks suspisious to me.
A week or so ago, I received a message from Membership Director AHCUSA that my
membership had "expired" (not lapsed). And it said to Go to the website
http://healey.org/ log in and choose User Menu and My Subscription to renew
online.
-Dave Murphy
'66 BJ8
SEMAHC


> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> From: jwhlyadv at aol.com
> Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 15:04:59 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed
>
> I keep getting this email and I don't like to open attachments or links
from
> strangers. Is this from AHCUSA or what?
>
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeffrey J. Eakin <delivery at yousendit.com>
> To: jwhlyadv <jwhlyadv at aol.com>
> Sent: Wed, Nov 16, 2011 11:19 am
> Subject: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed
>
>
>
> jeff.eakin at comcast.net has sent you the following via YouSendIt
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Letter to Lapsed Members.pdf
> Size: 60.14 KB Content will be available for download until November 30,
> 2011 08:18 PST.
>
>
> Download
>
>
>
>
> If the above link does not work, you can paste the following address into
your
> browser:
> https://rcpt.yousendit.com/1287383040/4f915b171da1c29ef5c152ce4d4dba3f
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> YouSendIt, Inc. | Privacy Policy
> 1919 S. Bascom Ave., Campbell, CA 95008
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roadwarriordave at hotmail.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Nov 16 14:21:06 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 14:21:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed
In-Reply-To: <8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
References: <398328955.1321460389407.JavaMail.ysi@sjcprdngw02.prod.yousendit.com>
	<8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C1AE17DC9ED34DEA95A45E37CA559D5A@oscar>

Google yousendit.com   It's some sort of file management deal...

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Werner
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 1:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed

I keep getting this email and I don't like to open attachments or links from
strangers. Is this from AHCUSA or what?


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey J. Eakin <delivery at yousendit.com>
To: jwhlyadv <jwhlyadv at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Nov 16, 2011 11:19 am
Subject: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed



jeff.eakin at comcast.net has sent you the following via YouSendIt








Letter to Lapsed Members.pdf
Size: 60.14 KB    Content will be available for download until November 30,
2011 08:18 PST.


Download




If the above link does not work, you can paste the following address into
your
browser:
https://rcpt.yousendit.com/1287383040/4f915b171da1c29ef5c152ce4d4dba3f










YouSendIt, Inc. | Privacy Policy
1919 S. Bascom Ave., Campbell, CA 95008
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 16 15:04:58 2011
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:04:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Vinyl
Message-ID: <BLU166-ds15B5BAEBA6A6612ED81259B3C60@phx.gbl>

I have a btopperb for my BJ8, some call it a bportable garageb, that
snaps onto the car when I park it.  The last time I used it, when I removed
it, the material cracked in about 3 dozen places (it was very frosty that
morning).  Now I need a product that I can pour, brush or spray on the topper
to re-seal it.  My preference would be a black liquid that will stay flexible
in the cold and is, of course, is waterproof.  I probably need to coat the
entire surface (20 b 30 square feet?).
Thanks in advance,
GaryB

From dlcaudle at morrisbb.net  Wed Nov 16 16:35:40 2011
From: dlcaudle at morrisbb.net (J. David & Lisa Caudle)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 18:35:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] (healey) topper/vinyl
Message-ID: <002201cca4b8$73e7ca90$5bb75fb0$@net>

Does anyone know what the $ value of a topper. The vinyl portable garage
that fits over the BJ8 soft top and prevents any water leakage.

Dave Caudle

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 16 17:47:42 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 16:47:42 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
Message-ID: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>

Has anyone been successful with the Gunson Colortune on their Healey?  I'm
considering buying one again. I had no luck on my MGB many years ago and gave
it away but I have heard so positive about it recently.
Rich Kahn

From kbeck100 at rcn.com  Wed Nov 16 18:04:30 2011
From: kbeck100 at rcn.com (Ken Beck)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 20:04:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] car carrie's       Thought's
References: <13696.47ce47f2.3bc4d61e@aol.com> <4E93916D.1080703@justbrits.com>
	<63908EAB7EDD421F8974A61CE2A02CF1@FRED>
Message-ID: <47678BB3AD5D4EE29A74CCBA20D785B0@na719y7xok2egp>

I have a car waiting to be picked up by Passport.  They told me 7-10 days. 
That was 3 weeks ago and they still can't tell me when is will ship.  It's 
already paid for also.

Ken
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Snyder" <helyjohn at cablespeed.com>
To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" <shop at justbrits.com>; <BEAU2EVE at aol.com>
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car carrie's Thought's


>I shipped a freshly restored BN7 from Port Townsend, WA to Park City, Utah 
>via Passport.  The driver called and gave me updates on where he was and 
>when he would arrive in Port Townsend.  I was very impressed with how 
>carefully the driver loaded the car and how carefully he tied it down.  I 
>certainly recommend Passport.  John Snyder
>
>
>> << Should I go open or closed. >>
>>
>> CLOSED, if you value your car Beau ! ! !  Er, IMVHO !
>>
>> Passport or Intercity are only ones I would use, especially
>> if any sort of long distance.
>>
>> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kbeck100 at rcn.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Nov 16 18:09:52 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 20:09:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed
In-Reply-To: <8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
References: <398328955.1321460389407.JavaMail.ysi@sjcprdngw02.prod.yousendit.com>
	<8CE72B227555684-B80-7556B@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <009401cca4c5$9ca6ee40$d5f4cac0$@rr.com>

Jeff Eakin tells me that the President of AHCUSA, Mark Schneider, is sending
the lapsed membership messages out, and they are legitimate.  He says he
will inform Mark of the comment so he will be aware.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Werner
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed

I keep getting this email and I don't like to open attachments or links from
strangers. Is this from AHCUSA or what?


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey J. Eakin <delivery at yousendit.com>
To: jwhlyadv <jwhlyadv at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Nov 16, 2011 11:19 am
Subject: Austin-Healey Club Membership Lapsed



jeff.eakin at comcast.net has sent you the following via YouSendIt








Letter to Lapsed Members.pdf
Size: 60.14 KB    Content will be available for download until November 30,
2011 08:18 PST.


Download




If the above link does not work, you can paste the following address into
your
browser:
https://rcpt.yousendit.com/1287383040/4f915b171da1c29ef5c152ce4d4dba3f










YouSendIt, Inc. | Privacy Policy
1919 S. Bascom Ave., Campbell, CA 95008
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4620 - Release Date: 11/16/11

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 16 19:35:49 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 21:35:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Vinyl
In-Reply-To: <BLU166-ds15B5BAEBA6A6612ED81259B3C60@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU166-ds15B5BAEBA6A6612ED81259B3C60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAJTyXLR=RD3jaSWnAcFHC93nBZtPfZK2Uz_c5a8aAtco7jN8Bg@mail.gmail.com>

Have you seen this spray on rubber sealant that has been all over the tv
the past couple of weeks? Claims to be flexible as well as waterproof and
probably cures gout as well, but might do what you need.

Bob Johnson
BJ8
On Nov 16, 2011 5:30 PM, "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I have a b topperb  for my BJ8, some call it a b portable garageb , that
> snaps onto the car when I park it.  The last time I used it, when I removed
> it, the material cracked in about 3 dozen places (it was very frosty that
> morning).  Now I need a product that I can pour, brush or spray on the
> topper
> to re-seal it.  My preference would be a black liquid that will stay
> flexible
> in the cold and is, of course, is waterproof.  I probably need to coat the
> entire surface (20 b  30 square feet?).
> Thanks in advance,
> GaryB
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8 at gmail.com

From mjb at autox.team.net  Wed Nov 16 20:32:57 2011
From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 20:32:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spam and such
Message-ID: <4EC48069.7090009@autox.team.net>

When I finally do cut over to the new server I plan on being more
effective in stopping spam messages from users who have been
hijacked.  At the moment all I can do is close the barn door after
the horse is gone, so to speak, by blocking these hapless users
from posting.  I almost did the switch this past weekend, but
another round of testing showed some errors in configurations
and such.  Maybe this weekend.

mjb.

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 16 20:34:46 2011
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 19:34:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] (healey) topper/vinyl
In-Reply-To: <002201cca4b8$73e7ca90$5bb75fb0$@net>
References: <002201cca4b8$73e7ca90$5bb75fb0$@net>
Message-ID: <1321500886.49605.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Check with Lee Williams email address:  leewilliams at insightbb.com  Phone:
(502) 777-7874 .  I ordered one for a BN7 in early October. I received it
within 2 weeks.  Excellent workmanship I was very satisfied with the finished
Product.      

I can send a picture of mine if you like.

Lee is in
Louisville, KY.  

No Financial Interest, just a satisfied customer.
Ron
Mitchell
BN7
BN6



________________________________
From: J. David & Lisa
Caudle <dlcaudle at morrisbb.net>
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday,
November 16, 2011 6:35 PM
Subject: [Healeys] (healey) topper/vinyl

Does
anyone know what the $ value of a topper. The vinyl portable garage
that fits
over the BJ8 soft top and prevents any water leakage.

Dave Caudle
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Nov 16 21:15:19 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 22:15:19 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Spam and such
In-Reply-To: <4EC48069.7090009@autox.team.net>
References: <4EC48069.7090009@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4EC48A57.6070306@justbrits.com>

<< ...by blocking these hapless users from posting. >>

ALL 'aol'ers, Mark ? ? ?

:-D :-D 8-)

Ed

From autofarm at cyg.net  Wed Nov 16 21:57:03 2011
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 23:57:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] (healey) topper/vinyl
References: <002201cca4b8$73e7ca90$5bb75fb0$@net>
Message-ID: <E286C78351F3408FA89A14B2F6891D9D@OFFICE>

    Hi Dave, we at Autofarm Ltd.  make a "portable garage" or topper from 
space age car cover material which is waterproof and silver in colour so it 
reflects sunlight, heat.  We have sold many of these, they come in their own 
storage bag, and when folded will fit into the glove box of a BJ8.  They 
cost $195.00 and shipping anywhere in the States is $22.00.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J. David & Lisa Caudle" <dlcaudle at morrisbb.net>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 6:35 PM
Subject: [Healeys] (healey) topper/vinyl


> Does anyone know what the $ value of a topper. The vinyl portable garage
> that fits over the BJ8 soft top and prevents any water leakage.
>
> Dave Caudle
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net 

From nconklin at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 16 22:28:29 2011
From: nconklin at sbcglobal.net (nconklin at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 21:28:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Color Tune
Message-ID: <1321507709.10246.YahooMailClassic@web83705.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Best thing since Apple Pie....that a Unisyn ...and a decent SU toolkit will
dial them in just fine. Dont get lulled into the single color check ..follow
through all phases to get the carbs dialed in correctly. The set will come
with a color chart...at idle...at mid range...and open throttle....dial it in
at all levels and/or average to your best adjustment for the best/smoothest
run. Nick C.

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed Nov 16 22:54:05 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 21:54:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Gunson_Colortune?=
Message-ID: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>

I bought 2 of them for #2 & 5 sparkplugs.

My experience was that when you adjust the mixture to the "bunsen" blue per the instructions, it's way too lean. 
When the mixture is adjusted to run properly, the Colortunes show all the way rich yellow on the left side of the scale.

Your mileage may vary.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Wed Nov 16 23:31:24 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 07:31:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>

If You can afford, buy a proper wide brand oxigen sensor and analizer
device. I use an Innovate Motorsport LM2, and it is easy to use, and will
make carb setting spot on. You can log it, map it, or use it directy.

Gergo

2011/11/17 Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>

> I bought 2 of them for #2 & 5 sparkplugs.
>
> My experience was that when you adjust the mixture to the "bunsen" blue
> per the instructions, it's way too lean.
> When the mixture is adjusted to run properly, the Colortunes show all the
> way rich yellow on the left side of the scale.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena, CA
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 17 00:01:43 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 08:01:43 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4EC4B157.1020404@chello.nl>

I have always been succesful with my Colortunes (I use one for each 
cilinder simultaniously on my car, ) with a variety of carbs and cars, 
even on a moped, SU-carbs, DellOrto, Zenith, Stromberg, Bing, Solex, 
Triumph Spitfire / TR6, Renault, Peugeot, Jensen Healey, Puch, VW, MGB, 
DAF etc. I have been using them since the early 1970's.  I have known 
people  though who could not work them.
You do need to play around with them first for some time to get the hang 
of them and to interpreted the colours properly. Once mastered they 
operate flawlessly in my view.
They are only for setting the mixture at idling, they are not suitable 
for balancing or testing the mixture for the full range of operation.
As long as you have the correct needle and jet they are perfect for the job.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 17-11-2011 1:47, Richard Kahn schreef:
> Has anyone been successful with the Gunson Colortune on their Healey?  I'm
> considering buying one again. I had no luck on my MGB many years ago and gave
> it away but I have heard so positive about it recently.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4620 - datum van uitgifte: 11/16/11

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 17 00:09:42 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 08:09:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EC4B336.3060907@chello.nl>

Problem with exhaust gas analysing equipment with multi carb engines is 
that you cannot tune the carbs individually, you do not know which carb 
to work on and when it is set properly. One can be a tad to rich while 
the other is lean resulting in an overall acceptable exhaust gas result.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 17-11-2011 7:31, Austin Healey schreef:
> If You can afford, buy a proper wide brand oxigen sensor and analizer
> device. I use an Innovate Motorsport LM2, and it is easy to use, and will
> make carb setting spot on. You can log it, map it, or use it directy.
>
> Gergo
>
> 2011/11/17 Steve B. Gerow<steveg at abrazosdata.com>
>
>> I bought 2 of them for #2&  5 sparkplugs.
>>
>> My experience was that when you adjust the mixture to the "bunsen" blue
>> per the instructions, it's way too lean.
>> When the mixture is adjusted to run properly, the Colortunes show all the
>> way rich yellow on the left side of the scale.
>>
>> Your mileage may vary.
>>
>> --
>> Steve Gerow
>> Altadena, CA
>> BN6
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4620 - datum van uitgifte: 11/16/11

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Nov 17 00:18:02 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 08:18:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <4EC4B336.3060907@chello.nl>
References: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4B336.3060907@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmCFVBrrPmkb87F4vttTZU5x6UsY8W7v=tbXTCcSuObDzQ@mail.gmail.com>

The device I use is driven by a wideband lambda sensor, which can be put
into the downpipes. We have two on the Healey, soo it gives spot-on
measurements for each carbs. Some devices can even handle two wideband
sensors at one time, soo You can adjust the carbs simultanously. Not mine
unfortunatly, but I will update to a twin-sensor soon.
The main profit of the gas analizer is that You can see the mixture under
real driving conditions: under load, decelarating, hard acceleration etc.

Gergo

2011/11/17 Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>

> Problem with exhaust gas analysing equipment with multi carb engines is
> that you cannot tune the carbs individually, you do not know which carb to
> work on and when it is set properly. One can be a tad to rich while the
> other is lean resulting in an overall acceptable exhaust gas result.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Op 17-11-2011 7:31, Austin Healey schreef:
>
>> If You can afford, buy a proper wide brand oxigen sensor and analizer
>> device. I use an Innovate Motorsport LM2, and it is easy to use, and will
>> make carb setting spot on. You can log it, map it, or use it directy.
>>
>> Gergo
>>
>> 2011/11/17 Steve B. Gerow<steveg at abrazosdata.com>
>>
>>  I bought 2 of them for #2&  5 sparkplugs.
>>>
>>>
>>> My experience was that when you adjust the mixture to the "bunsen" blue
>>> per the instructions, it's way too lean.
>>> When the mixture is adjusted to run properly, the Colortunes show all the
>>> way rich yellow on the left side of the scale.
>>>
>>> Your mileage may vary.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Steve Gerow
>>> Altadena, CA
>>> BN6
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/coudesluijs@**chello.nl<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4620 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 11/16/11

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 17 01:13:28 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 09:13:28 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmCFVBrrPmkb87F4vttTZU5x6UsY8W7v=tbXTCcSuObDzQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4B336.3060907@chello.nl>
	<CA+QDXmCFVBrrPmkb87F4vttTZU5x6UsY8W7v=tbXTCcSuObDzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EC4C228.7030708@chello.nl>

That will indeed help but needs an adaptor on each downpipe. But it 
still would not work on a tri-carb.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 17-11-2011 8:18, Austin Healey schreef:
> The device I use is driven by a wideband lambda sensor, which can be 
> put into the downpipes. We have two on the Healey, soo it gives 
> spot-on measurements for each carbs. Some devices can even handle two 
> wideband sensors at one time, soo You can adjust the carbs 
> simultanously. Not mine unfortunatly, but I will update to a 
> twin-sensor soon.
> The main profit of the gas analizer is that You can see the mixture 
> under real driving conditions: under load, decelarating, hard 
> acceleration etc.
>
> Gergo
>
> 2011/11/17 Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl 
> <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>>
>
>     Problem with exhaust gas analysing equipment with multi carb
>     engines is that you cannot tune the carbs individually, you do not
>     know which carb to work on and when it is set properly. One can be
>     a tad to rich while the other is lean resulting in an overall
>     acceptable exhaust gas result.
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>     NL
>
>     Op 17-11-2011 7:31, Austin Healey schreef:
>
>         If You can afford, buy a proper wide brand oxigen sensor and
>         analizer
>         device. I use an Innovate Motorsport LM2, and it is easy to
>         use, and will
>         make carb setting spot on. You can log it, map it, or use it
>         directy.
>
>         Gergo
>
>         2011/11/17 Steve B. Gerow<steveg at abrazosdata.com
>         <mailto:steveg at abrazosdata.com>>
>
>             I bought 2 of them for #2&  5 sparkplugs.
>
>
>             My experience was that when you adjust the mixture to the
>             "bunsen" blue
>             per the instructions, it's way too lean.
>             When the mixture is adjusted to run properly, the
>             Colortunes show all the
>             way rich yellow on the left side of the scale.
>
>             Your mileage may vary.
>
>             --
>             Steve Gerow
>             Altadena, CA
>             BN6
>             ______________________________ _________________
>             Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>             Donate: http://www.team.net/donate. html
>             <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>             Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>             Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>             gmail.com
>             <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
>
>         ______________________________ _________________
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate. html
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>         options/healeys/coudesluijs@ chello.nl
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl>
>
>
>         -----
>         Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>         Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>         Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4620 - datum van
>         uitgifte: 11/16/11
>
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2012.0.1869 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4620 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 11/16/11

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Thu Nov 17 03:21:07 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 11:21:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmCFVBrrPmkb87F4vttTZU5x6UsY8W7v=tbXTCcSuObDzQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4B336.3060907@chello.nl>
	<CA+QDXmCFVBrrPmkb87F4vttTZU5x6UsY8W7v=tbXTCcSuObDzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EC4E013.4090900@bredband.net>

Gergo
You are forgetting that the  two carburettors are mounted on a common 
intake manifold, so both carbs feed all 6 cylinders. I theory, and I 
think also in practice, you would be able to run the engine with only 
one carburettor. It will not run very well but still be running on all 
cylinders. As someone mentioned, the three carb model doesn't have this 
common intake.

Per in Sweden

Austin Healey skrev 2011-11-17 08:18:
> The device I use is driven by a wideband lambda sensor, which can be put
> into the downpipes. We have two on the Healey, soo it gives spot-on
> measurements for each carbs. Some devices can even handle two wideband
> sensors at one time, soo You can adjust the carbs simultanously. Not mine
> unfortunatly, but I will update to a twin-sensor soon.
> The main profit of the gas analizer is that You can see the mixture under
> real driving conditions: under load, decelarating, hard acceleration etc.
>
> Gergo

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 17 03:54:15 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 11:54:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <4EC4E013.4090900@bredband.net>
References: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4B336.3060907@chello.nl>
	<CA+QDXmCFVBrrPmkb87F4vttTZU5x6UsY8W7v=tbXTCcSuObDzQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4E013.4090900@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <4EC4E7D7.7030001@chello.nl>

The two throats are connected with a balancing pipe, which is different. 
Although there is some influence from one carb to the other, you can 
still tune using a Colortune or the set up Gergo is using by alternating 
and repeating the process per carb a few times or by temporarily 
blocking the bypass.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 17-11-2011 11:21, Per Schoerner schreef:
> Gergo
> You are forgetting that the  two carburettors are mounted on a common 
> intake manifold, so both carbs feed all 6 cylinders. I theory, and I 
> think also in practice, you would be able to run the engine with only 
> one carburettor. It will not run very well but still be running on all 
> cylinders. As someone mentioned, the three carb model doesn't have 
> this common intake.
>
> Per in Sweden
>
> Austin Healey skrev 2011-11-17 08:18:
>> The device I use is driven by a wideband lambda sensor, which can be put
>> into the downpipes. We have two on the Healey, soo it gives spot-on
>> measurements for each carbs. Some devices can even handle two wideband
>> sensors at one time, soo You can adjust the carbs simultanously. Not 
>> mine
>> unfortunatly, but I will update to a twin-sensor soon.
>> The main profit of the gas analizer is that You can see the mixture 
>> under
>> real driving conditions: under load, decelarating, hard acceleration 
>> etc.
>>
>> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1872 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4621 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 11/16/11

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Nov 17 04:03:25 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 12:03:25 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <4EC4E013.4090900@bredband.net>
References: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4B336.3060907@chello.nl>
	<CA+QDXmCFVBrrPmkb87F4vttTZU5x6UsY8W7v=tbXTCcSuObDzQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4E013.4090900@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBcVx0nSyi6ucFaDCWdjQ3S1pu8c2N8f+fqfnA+inQM3w@mail.gmail.com>

By theory You are all right, but practicaly the WBO worked perfectly on the
car. It reacted at the slightest adjustment of the mixture or alteration of
the needle/spring/oil/fuel level. I think under normal operating
conditions, the front cylinders are fed at least 90% by the front carb and
the reasr by the rear carb. I my opinion, we dont need any more
"perfection" on our engines. Working out the tree carb would realy be
challenging, though I think with a good balace-tool, it would still be
possible to achieve a good result.

Gergo

2011/11/17 Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>

> Gergo
> You are forgetting that the  two carburettors are mounted on a common
> intake manifold, so both carbs feed all 6 cylinders. I theory, and I think
> also in practice, you would be able to run the engine with only one
> carburettor. It will not run very well but still be running on all
> cylinders. As someone mentioned, the three carb model doesn't have this
> common intake.
>
> Per in Sweden
>
> Austin Healey skrev 2011-11-17 08:18:
>
>  The device I use is driven by a wideband lambda sensor, which can be put
>> into the downpipes. We have two on the Healey, soo it gives spot-on
>> measurements for each carbs. Some devices can even handle two wideband
>> sensors at one time, soo You can adjust the carbs simultanously. Not mine
>> unfortunatly, but I will update to a twin-sensor soon.
>> The main profit of the gas analizer is that You can see the mixture under
>> real driving conditions: under load, decelarating, hard acceleration etc.
>>
>> Gergo
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Nov 17 03:58:25 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 11:58:25 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <4EC4E013.4090900@bredband.net>
References: <20111117055405.20161.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<CA+QDXmBB20eOOpM=TQSAnAELWPNshi5OC-14zBzAaxp5sbBXSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4B336.3060907@chello.nl>
	<CA+QDXmCFVBrrPmkb87F4vttTZU5x6UsY8W7v=tbXTCcSuObDzQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EC4E013.4090900@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB60305D37B9@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Per,
Just to make it clear, the three carb model also has a balance pipe to connect
all three intakes, but its much smaller in diameter.
But the imperfections on the Austin-Healey engine/carburetter/exhaust design
do not allow a perfect adjustment with a wideband lambda sensor. There is also
a high dependency on the climate, temperature, altitude.
For a good adjustment of the mixture two colortune plugs or with 3carbs 3
colortune plugs will do the job.

Josef Eckert
Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Per Schoerner
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 17. November 2011 11:21
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune

Gergo
You are forgetting that the  two carburettors are mounted on a common intake
manifold, so both carbs feed all 6 cylinders. I theory, and I think also in
practice, you would be able to run the engine with only one carburettor. It
will not run very well but still be running on all cylinders. As someone
mentioned, the three carb model doesn't have this common intake.

Per in Sweden

Austin Healey skrev 2011-11-17 08:18:
> The device I use is driven by a wideband lambda sensor, which can be
> put into the downpipes. We have two on the Healey, soo it gives
> spot-on measurements for each carbs. Some devices can even handle two
> wideband sensors at one time, soo You can adjust the carbs
> simultanously. Not mine unfortunatly, but I will update to a twin-sensor
soon.
> The main profit of the gas analizer is that You can see the mixture
> under real driving conditions: under load, decelarating, hard acceleration
etc.
>
> Gergo

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 17 05:03:58 2011
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 04:03:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colotune
Message-ID: <1321531438.89742.YahooMailClassic@web112512.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
Cc: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>,
    "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
 
 
** I have personally seen carbs tuned by "turning off" each carb while the
other carb was being tuned. A mechanic I used to use while stationed in the
Navy in Rhode Island used to do it.
 
Engine warm and in tune (timing, dwell, etc.)
 
Slacken connecting carb linkage
 
Turn off carb you're not adjusting by raising the jet to "flush" position and
inserting a screwdriver to lift up the carb piston about 1/2" for carb not
adjusting.
 
You will have to set carb your're adjusting to a fast idle to keep enging
running. Do not set too fast but only enough so that engine runs.
 
Using a tach that has a large read scale and doesn't jump all over the place
you will be able to adjust the mixture just like in the book with a slight
increase and a slight tapering off when it's adjusted correctly. Do not use
the small piston on the outsude of the carb but instead use a small
screwdriver to lift the large piston a "skoosh" to check mixture strength.
 
When done adjusting with this carb, do the same to the other carb including
turning it off. Count the turns on the jet screw so that when you are done
adjusting with the other carb you can re-set this carb.
Patrick
Owned BJ8 since 1972

Problem with exhaust gas analysing equipment with multi carb engines is
that you cannot tune the carbs individually, you do not know which carb
to work on and when it is set properly. One can be a tad to rich while
the other is lean resulting in an overall acceptable exhaust gas result.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Nov 17 06:33:53 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 06:33:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vinyl
In-Reply-To: <CAJTyXLR=RD3jaSWnAcFHC93nBZtPfZK2Uz_c5a8aAtco7jN8Bg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU166-ds15B5BAEBA6A6612ED81259B3C60@phx.gbl>
	<CAJTyXLR=RD3jaSWnAcFHC93nBZtPfZK2Uz_c5a8aAtco7jN8Bg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1D3E70377D5643AEBC2E5E3A6A47F11A@oscar>

Bob and Gary,
..and that stuff is the same as undercoating available at the parts houses.
Don't pay the TV prices!
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 7:36 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vinyl

Have you seen this spray on rubber sealant that has been all over the tv
the past couple of weeks? Claims to be flexible as well as waterproof and
probably cures gout as well, but might do what you need.

Bob Johnson
BJ8
On Nov 16, 2011 5:30 PM, "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I have a b topperb  for my BJ8, some call it a b portable garageb , that
> snaps onto the car when I park it.  The last time I used it, when I
removed
> it, the material cracked in about 3 dozen places (it was very frosty that
> morning).  Now I need a product that I can pour, brush or spray on the
> topper
> to re-seal it.  My preference would be a black liquid that will stay
> flexible
> in the cold and is, of course, is waterproof.  I probably need to coat the
> entire surface (20 b  30 square feet?).
> Thanks in advance,
> GaryB
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Thu Nov 17 06:59:50 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 05:59:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Gunson_Colortune?=
Message-ID: <20111117135950.8536.qmail@hoster902.com>

I went to an air-fuel meter, the K&N:

http://tinyurl.com/76t9dlb

I mounted two O2 sensors on the downpipes with a dash switch between the two.

I agree this is the best way to go because you can watch each carb's mixture while driving.

Note - you don't have to buy their O2 sensors - any single wire sensor will do.


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Thu Nov 17 07:34:28 2011
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 06:34:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey Membership Lapsed
Message-ID: <6D4E9B8F-8CB6-4467-B0F8-9B25215AAECA@comcast.net>

Listers,

The letter that has caused concern a legitimate communication.   I am the
President of the AHCUSA.  I issued the letter. It was not an attempt to pam
anyone.

The club has an account with a corporation providing "secure file sharing,
management, and transfer".  The intent of my email letter was to contact
members of the USA Club whose membership records indicated failure to renew.
The body of the letter included my email address and my name was in the
signature block.   I assumed that  was sufficient to identify me as the
sender.  I was assured by the the corporation that a strict adherence to a
rigid email protocol was in effect.  I apologize for the discomfort and
concern my actions caused.

Mark Schneider, President
Austin-Healey Club USA

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov 17 08:16:29 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 07:16:29 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <20111117135950.8536.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20111117135950.8536.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <4EC5254D.2060505@comcast.net>

Unfortunately, no help for us with 'pure' British essence: positive ground (yes, I know some 'Merkin cars were +gnd, too).

Bob


On 11/17/2011 5:59 AM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
> I went to an air-fuel meter, the K&N:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/76t9dlb
>
> I mounted two O2 sensors on the downpipes with a dash switch between the two.
>
> I agree this is the best way to go because you can watch each carb's mixture while driving.
>
> Note - you don't have to buy their O2 sensors - any single wire sensor will do.
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Nov 17 08:17:47 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 10:17:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001701cca53c$108defe0$31a9cfa0$@rr.com>

I have used a Colortune for years, and it works just fine.  For me, it has
been the only satisfactory way of tuning the SU carbs.  According to the SU
manual, it is only necessary to set the correct mixture for an SU carburetor
at the specified idle speed.  If the carburetors are working as designed and
the needles and springs are correct, the idle mixture is good for the entire
operating range of the carburetor.  
If correct engine performance cannot be attained when the combustion flame
is a Bunsen blue, then there is probably something not right about the
carburetor you're trying to tune, since the Bunsen blue flame indicates
maximum efficiency of combustion.

About a year ago, I was trying to tune my MG Midget 1275 engine with the
Colortune.  It had always worked fine in the past, but that time I could not
get the front carb to lean out from rich (yellow flame) to blue (correct).
I found later that for some reason the fuel pump was suddenly putting out
much too high a pressure at the front carb.  On a 1275, the fuel line from
the pump goes to the front carb first. 

Considering that the parts are mostly plastic, the only problem I have with
the Colortune is its high price. 

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 7:48 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune

Has anyone been successful with the Gunson Colortune on their Healey?  I'm
considering buying one again. I had no luck on my MGB many years ago and
gave
it away but I have heard so positive about it recently.
Rich Kahn

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Nov 17 08:47:01 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 16:47:01 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <4EC5254D.2060505@comcast.net>
References: <20111117135950.8536.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<4EC5254D.2060505@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmCCdvPWZ2OwiHjyk0e4ArQWV-77OuQu+WcZYWo7GLc38g@mail.gmail.com>

You can use it on + ground cars with no problem. Just have to isolate it
from the chassis. My car is also + ground.
BTW it may be good to point out, that there are two different types of O2
sensors awailable. The wideband and the narrow band. Though the narrow band
may be usefull as a controll device, it is not particulary usefull when
setting up an engine. Esp. if the negine is nonstandard.

Gergo


2011/11/17 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>

> Unfortunately, no help for us with 'pure' British essence: positive ground
> (yes, I know some 'Merkin cars were +gnd, too).
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 11/17/2011 5:59 AM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>
>> I went to an air-fuel meter, the K&N:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/76t9dlb
>>
>> I mounted two O2 sensors on the downpipes with a dash switch between the
>> two.
>>
>> I agree this is the best way to go because you can watch each carb's
>> mixture while driving.
>>
>> Note - you don't have to buy their O2 sensors - any single wire sensor
>> will do.
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Nov 17 09:21:23 2011
From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 16:21:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <20111117135950.8536.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20111117135950.8536.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF63314F780C0@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>

I tried a single wire and the readings are too erratic. It isn't hot enough. I
now have a three wire but not yet installed.
Ken Freese

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve B. Gerow
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 6:00 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune

I went to an air-fuel meter, the K&N:

http://tinyurl.com/76t9dlb

I mounted two O2 sensors on the downpipes with a dash switch between the two.

I agree this is the best way to go because you can watch each carb's mixture
while driving.

Note - you don't have to buy their O2 sensors - any single wire sensor will
do.


--
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ken.freese at aerojet.com

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Thu Nov 17 09:45:07 2011
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 11:45:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PLf3j=pyjj3v_NcoaAsEsSmsZ9LU3+0afvgFCkneu8kBQ@mail.gmail.com>

I found the plastic tube that holds the mirror will melt if you leave it in
place too long.   Now I use an old Heathkit gas analyzer I bought off Ebay.
 BJ8's separate the exhaust gases, so I measure the richness at the pipe of
the carb I'm adjusting.

- Tom

On Wed, Nov 16, 2011 at 7:47 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Has anyone been successful with the Gunson Colortune on their Healey?  I'm
> considering buying one again. I had no luck on my MGB many years ago and
> gave
> it away but I have heard so positive about it recently.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov 17 09:52:56 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 16:52:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmCCdvPWZ2OwiHjyk0e4ArQWV-77OuQu+WcZYWo7GLc38g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <574695710.2029717.1321548776297.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Would be very interested in exactly how you did this. How do you isolate an O2 sensor? They emit a (very small) voltage signal, referenced to chassis ground, and I was told by K&N tech support that their indicators absolutely would not work on +gnd, because of their input polarity (isolation or no). 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


You can use it on + ground cars with no problem. Just have to isolate it from the chassis. My car is also + ground. 
BTW it may be good to point out, that there are two different types of O2 sensors awailable. The wideband and the narrow band. Though the narrow band may be usefull as a controll device, it is not particulary usefull when setting up an engine. Esp. if the negine is nonstandard. 

Gergo 



2011/11/17 Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net > 


Unfortunately, no help for us with 'pure' British essence: positive ground (yes, I know some 'Merkin cars were +gnd, too). 

Bob 



On 11/17/2011 5:59 AM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: 

<blockquote>
I went to an air-fuel meter, the K&N: 

http://tinyurl.com/76t9dlb 

I mounted two O2 sensors on the downpipes with a dash switch between the two. 

I agree this is the best way to go because you can watch each carb's mixture while driving. 

Note - you don't have to buy their O2 sensors - any single wire sensor will do. 






-- 
****************************** ****************************** ******* 
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net 

****************************** ****************************** ******* 



______________________________ _________________ 
Healeys at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate. html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/pajtamuvek@ gmail.com 

</blockquote>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov 17 09:55:53 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 16:55:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <001701cca53c$108defe0$31a9cfa0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1205204806.2029848.1321548953418.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Besides setting idle, you can confirm the SU's 'enrichment' system by blipping the throttle. The flame should change from blue to yellow/orange briefly, then settle back to blue when engine speed stabilizes. 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I have used a Colortune for years, and it works just fine. For me, it has 
been the only satisfactory way of tuning the SU carbs. According to the SU 
manual, it is only necessary to set the correct mixture for an SU carburetor 
at the specified idle speed. If the carburetors are working as designed and 
the needles and springs are correct, the idle mixture is good for the entire 
operating range of the carburetor. 
If correct engine performance cannot be attained when the combustion flame 
is a Bunsen blue, then there is probably something not right about the 
carburetor you're trying to tune, since the Bunsen blue flame indicates 
maximum efficiency of combustion. 

About a year ago, I was trying to tune my MG Midget 1275 engine with the 
Colortune. It had always worked fine in the past, but that time I could not 
get the front carb to lean out from rich (yellow flame) to blue (correct). 
I found later that for some reason the fuel pump was suddenly putting out 
much too high a pressure at the front carb. On a 1275, the fuel line from 
the pump goes to the front carb first. 

Considering that the parts are mostly plastic, the only problem I have with 
the Colortune is its high price. 

Steve Byers 
HBJ8L/36666 
BJ8 Registry 
Havelock, NC USA 

Has anyone been successful with the Gunson Colortune on their Healey? I'm 
considering buying one again. I had no luck on my MGB many years ago and 
gave 
it away but I have heard so positive about it recently. 
Rich Kahn 

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Thu Nov 17 10:07:49 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 18:07:49 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <574695710.2029717.1321548776297.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CA+QDXmCCdvPWZ2OwiHjyk0e4ArQWV-77OuQu+WcZYWo7GLc38g@mail.gmail.com>
	<574695710.2029717.1321548776297.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmCgpqgEmY2c30mfzN5YE6Wb=FVkcUmkvibrpNBpDYxhJQ@mail.gmail.com>

You dont have to isolate the sensor, only the meter. The sensor is a 3 wire
type (heater, sensor, ground). The sensor does not use the exhaust as a
ground. Its not theory. Been there done that.

Gergo



2011/11/17 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>

> Would be very interested in exactly how you did this.  How do you isolate
> an O2 sensor?  They emit a (very small) voltage signal, referenced to
> chassis ground, and I was told by K&N tech support that their indicators
> absolutely would not work on +gnd, because of their input polarity
> (isolation or no).
>
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ------------------------------
> **
>
> You can use it on + ground cars with no problem. Just have to isolate it
> from the chassis. My car is also + ground.
> BTW it may be good to point out, that there are two different types of O2
> sensors awailable. The wideband and the narrow band. Though the narrow band
> may be usefull as a controll device, it is not particulary usefull when
> setting up an engine. Esp. if the negine is nonstandard.
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2011/11/17 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>
>> Unfortunately, no help for us with 'pure' British essence: positive
>> ground (yes, I know some 'Merkin cars were +gnd, too).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>> On 11/17/2011 5:59 AM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>>
>>> I went to an air-fuel meter, the K&N:
>>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/76t9dlb
>>>
>>> I mounted two O2 sensors on the downpipes with a dash switch between the
>>> two.
>>>
>>> I agree this is the best way to go because you can watch each carb's
>>> mixture while driving.
>>>
>>> Note - you don't have to buy their O2 sensors - any single wire sensor
>>> will do.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> ***********************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>>
>> ***********************************************************************
>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From jmnewt at comcast.net  Thu Nov 17 10:49:16 2011
From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 10:49:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Free Club Mags
Message-ID: <C494FFACE7674E79BF8F7086D180A0CA@jackspc>

I have a collection of older Austin Healey Club  magazines (both clubs) 
dating back to the late '80s which I will give to any interested listers. 
You will need to pay book rate shipping and small packaging cost.  Contact 
me off list with any inquiries.
Jack
BN-1, BN-2 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov 17 10:50:34 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 17:50:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PLf3j=pyjj3v_NcoaAsEsSmsZ9LU3+0afvgFCkneu8kBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <289293553.2032756.1321552234123.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I got a small ($250) bonus one time, but it came in the form of a gift card (hate those--gimme cash!). Anyway, trying to spend most of the card on one item I ended up buying a Gunson exhaust gas analyzer. Although the readings (mostly) made sense, I didn't think the effort accomplished much more than you could get with Colortunes (plus, the EGA used plastic tubing that started to melt). 

I think, overall, you can get pretty good results just setting the mixture for best/fastest idle, then enrichening an eighth to a quarter turn to be on the safe/power side of the curve. Most fixed venturi--i.e. 'American-style'--carbs are set this way, but set 50RPM on the lean side of best idle for smog reasons. If you're tweaking for max performance at certain RPMs you're pretty much gonna need a dyno, IMO. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

I found the plastic tube that holds the mirror will melt if you leave it in 
place too long. Now I use an old Heathkit gas analyzer I bought off Ebay. 
BJ8's separate the exhaust gases, so I measure the richness at the pipe of 
the carb I'm adjusting. 

- Tom 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Nov 17 11:14:35 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 13:14:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <1205204806.2029848.1321548953418.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <001701cca53c$108defe0$31a9cfa0$@rr.com>
	<1205204806.2029848.1321548953418.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003901cca554$c38040e0$4a80c2a0$@rr.com>

Yes, thatbs true.


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:56 AM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune

Besides setting idle, you can confirm the SU's 'enrichment' system by blipping
the throttle.  The flame should change from blue to yellow/orange briefly,
then settle back to blue when engine speed stabilizes.
--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Nov 17 11:17:41 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 13:17:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PLf3j=pyjj3v_NcoaAsEsSmsZ9LU3+0afvgFCkneu8kBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
	<CANQM1PLf3j=pyjj3v_NcoaAsEsSmsZ9LU3+0afvgFCkneu8kBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>

The Colortune kit instructions caution against leaving the parts installed
too long because of the heat.  I've found that they hold up just fine for
the amount of time it takes to adjust both carburetors.

Can anyone who has the kit tell me what the chemical is that is used to
clean the spark plug view window?  Mine is so old that the label on the
bottle is no longer legible.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:45 AM
To: Richard Kahn
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune

I found the plastic tube that holds the mirror will melt if you leave it in
place too long.   Now I use an old Heathkit gas analyzer I bought off Ebay.
 BJ8's separate the exhaust gases, so I measure the richness at the pipe of
the carb I'm adjusting.

- Tom

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Nov 17 11:53:12 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 19:53:12 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>
References: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
	<CANQM1PLf3j=pyjj3v_NcoaAsEsSmsZ9LU3+0afvgFCkneu8kBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB60305D3C67@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Hi Steve,
I use brake cleaner or silicone remover. That works fine.

Josef Eckert
Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von BJ8 Healeys
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 17. November 2011 19:18
An: 'Tom'; 'Richard Kahn'
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune

The Colortune kit instructions caution against leaving the parts installed too
long because of the heat.  I've found that they hold up just fine for the
amount of time it takes to adjust both carburetors.

Can anyone who has the kit tell me what the chemical is that is used to clean
the spark plug view window?  Mine is so old that the label on the bottle is no
longer legible.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov 17 11:59:41 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 18:59:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <889934484.2036355.1321556381988.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Don't have my Colourtune kits handy, but IIRC it's acetic acid (found in vinegar and good at cleaning boiler scale and other alkaline deposits). 

If it smells like vinegar that's what it is. 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


The Colortune kit instructions caution against leaving the parts installed 
too long because of the heat. I've found that they hold up just fine for 
the amount of time it takes to adjust both carburetors. 

Can anyone who has the kit tell me what the chemical is that is used to 
clean the spark plug view window? Mine is so old that the label on the 
bottle is no longer legible. 

Steve Byers 
HBJ8L/36666 
BJ8 Registry 
Havelock, NC USA 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov 17 12:02:58 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 19:02:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <CA+QDXmCgpqgEmY2c30mfzN5YE6Wb=FVkcUmkvibrpNBpDYxhJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1495469044.2036567.1321556578423.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: "The sensor does not use the exhaust as a ground" 

I believe the one-wire sensors do. All the ones I've installed have come with a special (copper-based?) anti-seize to guarantee a good ground to the exhaust. 

Since three-wires have a separate ground I can see how it would work. I think the K&N guy assumed you would use their sensors, which I believe are one-wire. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


You dont have to isolate the sensor, only the meter. The sensor is a 3 wire type (heater, sensor, ground). The sensor does not use the exhaust as a ground. Its not theory. Been there done that. 

Gergo 




2011/11/17 Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net > 




Would be very interested in exactly how you did this. How do you isolate an O2 sensor? They emit a (very small) voltage signal, referenced to chassis ground, and I was told by K&N tech support that their indicators absolutely would not work on +gnd, because of their input polarity (isolation or no). 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 







You can use it on + ground cars with no problem. Just have to isolate it from the chassis. My car is also + ground. 
BTW it may be good to point out, that there are two different types of O2 sensors awailable. The wideband and the narrow band. Though the narrow band may be usefull as a controll device, it is not particulary usefull when setting up an engine. Esp. if the negine is nonstandard. 

Gergo 

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Thu Nov 17 12:06:42 2011
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 19:06:42 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>
References: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl><CANQM1PLf3j=pyjj3v_NcoaAsEsSmsZ9LU3+0afvgFCkneu8kBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <41B6366731C248359604A162F6EEF3C6@TomVistaPC>

Hi Steve, I have an original Colortune500 kit which must be 30 Years old and 
it still has all of the original documentation with it.

The bottle doesn't have any labels or markings on it but the documentation 
states that the cleaning fluid is Ammonium Acetate SOL. B.P. (Diluted 50% in 
Water)

Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 
Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 
705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 
Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with 
company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: "'Tom'" <ah3000me at gmail.com>; "'Richard Kahn'" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune


> The Colortune kit instructions caution against leaving the parts installed
> too long because of the heat.  I've found that they hold up just fine for
> the amount of time it takes to adjust both carburetors.
>
> Can anyone who has the kit tell me what the chemical is that is used to
> clean the spark plug view window?  Mine is so old that the label on the
> bottle is no longer legible.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Tom
> Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:45 AM
> To: Richard Kahn
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
>
> I found the plastic tube that holds the mirror will melt if you leave it 
> in
> place too long.   Now I use an old Heathkit gas analyzer I bought off 
> Ebay.
> BJ8's separate the exhaust gases, so I measure the richness at the pipe of
> the carb I'm adjusting.
>
> - Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 17 12:20:11 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 20:20:11 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>
References: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl>
	<CANQM1PLf3j=pyjj3v_NcoaAsEsSmsZ9LU3+0afvgFCkneu8kBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4EC55E6B.6090407@chello.nl>

As far as I am concerned it is just cleaning vinegar. That is what I use 
now since the old stuff was used up. Rinse well with water afterwards.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 17-11-2011 19:17, BJ8 Healeys schreef:
> The Colortune kit instructions caution against leaving the parts installed
> too long because of the heat.  I've found that they hold up just fine for
> the amount of time it takes to adjust both carburetors.
>
> Can anyone who has the kit tell me what the chemical is that is used to
> clean the spark plug view window?  Mine is so old that the label on the
> bottle is no longer legible.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666	
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Tom
> Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:45 AM
> To: Richard Kahn
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
>
> I found the plastic tube that holds the mirror will melt if you leave it in
> place too long.   Now I use an old Heathkit gas analyzer I bought off Ebay.
>   BJ8's separate the exhaust gases, so I measure the richness at the pipe of
> the carb I'm adjusting.
>
> - Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1872 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4622 - datum van uitgifte: 11/17/11

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Nov 17 12:24:20 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 14:24:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <41B6366731C248359604A162F6EEF3C6@TomVistaPC>
References: <COL121-W233ADD686C9F9C5C826D41A4C70@phx.gbl><CANQM1PLf3j=pyjj3v_NcoaAsEsSmsZ9LU3+0afvgFCkneu8kBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<003e01cca555$31d86450$95892cf0$@rr.com>
	<41B6366731C248359604A162F6EEF3C6@TomVistaPC>
Message-ID: <002101cca55e$817b6bc0$84724340$@rr.com>

Yeah, Tom, now that I see your response that's what I remember was on my
bottle label.  My kit is close to 25 years old.

Thanks to everyone for the other alternatives, too.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd
[mailto:enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk] 
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 2:07 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune

Hi Steve, I have an original Colortune500 kit which must be 30 Years old and

it still has all of the original documentation with it.

The bottle doesn't have any labels or markings on it but the documentation 
states that the cleaning fluid is Ammonium Acetate SOL. B.P. (Diluted 50% in

Water)

Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 
Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 
705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 
Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with 
company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Nov 17 12:44:54 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 11:44:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune
In-Reply-To: <1495469044.2036567.1321556578423.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CA+QDXmCgpqgEmY2c30mfzN5YE6Wb=FVkcUmkvibrpNBpDYxhJQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1495469044.2036567.1321556578423.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CACOF-Tp+Y4kg1cUexDCvHzsaOUcYifco6jsSygFyckVsXS9Z8g@mail.gmail.com>

Single wire and Three wire sensors do use the exhaust/engine as a ground.
On a single wire sensor this is obvious.
On a three wire sensor there is a sensor lead, and power and ground for the
heater circuit.  The heater circuit ground is NOT shared with the signal
ground. The ground is through the threads of the sensor to the exhaust and
up to the engine.
A four wire sensor would be independent of the exhaust/ engine.
Five and six wire sensors would not be compatible with anything you could
cook up at home easily.
Rick

On Thu, Nov 17, 2011 at 11:02 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "The sensor does not use the exhaust as a ground"
>
> I believe the one-wire sensors do. All the ones I've installed have come
> with a special (copper-based?) anti-seize to guarantee a good ground to the
> exhaust.
>
> Since three-wires have a separate ground I can see how it would work. I
> think the K&N guy assumed you would use their sensors, which I believe are
> one-wire.
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> You dont have to isolate the sensor, only the meter. The sensor is a 3
> wire type (heater, sensor, ground). The sensor does not use the exhaust as
> a ground. Its not theory. Been there done that.
>
> Gergo
>
>
>
>
> 2011/11/17 Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net >
>
>
>
>
> Would be very interested in exactly how you did this. How do you isolate
> an O2 sensor? They emit a (very small) voltage signal, referenced to
> chassis ground, and I was told by K&N tech support that their indicators
> absolutely would not work on +gnd, because of their input polarity
> (isolation or no).
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> You can use it on + ground cars with no problem. Just have to isolate it
> from the chassis. My car is also + ground.
> BTW it may be good to point out, that there are two different types of O2
> sensors awailable. The wideband and the narrow band. Though the narrow band
> may be usefull as a controll device, it is not particulary usefull when
> setting up an engine. Esp. if the negine is nonstandard.
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Nov 18 10:36:51 2011
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 11:36:51 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Used oil pump Free + post
Message-ID: <201111180936327.SM01420@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Rotor vane type. 6 cylinder early version.  Postage only.

Peter C

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sat Nov 19 09:22:16 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 08:22:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
Message-ID: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>

I haven't had any Healey activity in a couple of days.
Rich Kahn

From pieters at pt.lu  Sat Nov 19 09:53:32 2011
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 17:53:32 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>

Me either,
Pieter
On 19/11/2011, at 5:22 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:

> I haven't had any Healey activity in a couple of days.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pieters at pt.lu

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Nov 19 10:22:39 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 09:22:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <252F98F509064AF49C5CBC6243C23F96@LeonardPCPC>

Rich:  I think Mark is working on the system.  It has been very minimal for 
several days.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.comTo: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 8:22 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?


>I haven't had any Healey activity in a couple of days.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov 19 10:30:40 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 09:30:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
	<EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <4EC7E7C0.3010904@comcast.net>

OK, you asked for it ...

What kind of oil should I use?  Brake fluid?

What tyres?  Wheels?

My Healey runs hot, what should I do?

My speedometer is erratic, what gives?

Do I need ZDDP?

etc., etc. ...


On 11/19/2011 8:53 AM, Pieter and Linda wrote:
> Me either,
> Pieter
> On 19/11/2011, at 5:22 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>
>> I haven't had any Healey activity in a couple of days.
>> Rich Kahn
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Nov 19 10:41:21 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 12:41:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00b601cca6e2$73f3d0c0$5bdb7240$@verizon.net>

I have. Removed the windscreen and pillars, scuttle top, left door and wing
for replacement of some rubber parts, etc. Replaced the cold air to heater
duct. Oh, you were referring to the Healey List. Sorry.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 11:22 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?

I haven't had any Healey activity in a couple of days.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Nov 19 12:23:21 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 11:23:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <4EC7E7C0.3010904@comcast.net>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl><EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>
	<4EC7E7C0.3010904@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4F567C9FED4F4D49981CCB958D880C36@LeonardPCPC>

Or, as Click and Clack (The hosts of Car Talk are brothers Tom and Ray 
Magliozzi, also known as Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers) suggested to 
a person considering the purchase of an old British automobile, buy a Miata 
and avoid all those problems.

What fun and adventure is that?  How are people like them allowed to stay on 
the air or in the newspapers?   ;-)   <TIC>

(No flaming from Miata owners, please.  They suggested it, not me)

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hello?


> OK, you asked for it ...
>
> What kind of oil should I use?  Brake fluid?
>
> What tyres?  Wheels?
>
> My Healey runs hot, what should I do?
>
> My speedometer is erratic, what gives?
>
> Do I need ZDDP?
>
> etc., etc. ...
>
>
> On 11/19/2011 8:53 AM, Pieter and Linda wrote:
>> Me either,
>> Pieter
>> On 19/11/2011, at 5:22 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>>
>>> I haven't had any Healey activity in a couple of days.
>>> Rich Kahn
>>> _______________________________________________

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sat Nov 19 12:39:33 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 11:39:33 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <4F567C9FED4F4D49981CCB958D880C36@LeonardPCPC>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl><EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>,
	<4EC7E7C0.3010904@comcast.net>,
	<4F567C9FED4F4D49981CCB958D880C36@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <COL121-W544764527E1B1904EA035CA4C50@phx.gbl>

Len, I saw that in the paper. I had a good laugh. British cars are more than
(reliable) transportation. They are a family of friends and a hobby to keep
you busy when you are not driving. Youb don't get that with a Miata.
Rich Kahn

> From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 11:23:21 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hello?
>
> Or, as Click and Clack (The hosts of Car Talk are brothers Tom and Ray
> Magliozzi, also known as Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers) suggested to
> a person considering the purchase of an old British automobile, buy a Miata
> and avoid all those problems.
>
> What fun and adventure is that?  How are people like them allowed to stay on
> the air or in the newspapers?   ;-)   <TIC>
>
> (No flaming from Miata owners, please.  They suggested it, not me)
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 9:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hello?
>
>
> > OK, you asked for it ...
> >
> > What kind of oil should I use?  Brake fluid?
> >
> > What tyres?  Wheels?
> >
> > My Healey runs hot, what should I do?
> >
> > My speedometer is erratic, what gives?
> >
> > Do I need ZDDP?
> >
> > etc., etc. ...
> >
> >
> > On 11/19/2011 8:53 AM, Pieter and Linda wrote:
> >> Me either,
> >> Pieter
> >> On 19/11/2011, at 5:22 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> >>
> >>> I haven't had any Healey activity in a couple of days.
> >>> Rich Kahn
> >>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sat Nov 19 12:46:37 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 11:46:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
In-Reply-To: <4F567C9FED4F4D49981CCB958D880C36@LeonardPCPC>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl><EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>
	<4EC7E7C0.3010904@comcast.net>
	<4F567C9FED4F4D49981CCB958D880C36@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <439703BD-7589-4AF5-852C-B19A232C9944@cox.net>

What are you guys with collapsable steering columns doing for the center
control?

I love the stationary stock trafficator control.
Thanks,
Rick

From 55healey at comcast.net  Sat Nov 19 12:56:45 2011
From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 11:56:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
In-Reply-To: <00b601cca6e2$73f3d0c0$5bdb7240$@verizon.net>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
	<00b601cca6e2$73f3d0c0$5bdb7240$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <7701D971-4B7C-4943-A475-C4270219EEB7@comcast.net>

Hi Rich and John,

I replaced the windshield, rewired the horn, replaced the points,  
plugs,  ignition wires, rebuilt the rear radius arms and bushings on  
the '60 Frogeye.
We are up and running.

Rob


On Nov 19, 2011, at 9:41 AM, John Sims wrote:

> I have. Removed the windscreen and pillars, scuttle top, left door  
> and wing
> for replacement of some rubber parts, etc. Replaced the cold air to  
> heater
> duct. Oh, you were referring to the Healey List. Sorry.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> ]
> On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
> Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 11:22 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Hello?
>
> I haven't had any Healey activity in a couple of days.
> Rich Kahn

From mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de  Sat Nov 19 13:31:32 2011
From: mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de (Eberhard Pietzsch)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 21:31:32 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Size of steering wheel nut
Message-ID: <4EC81224.8070207@eberhard-pietzsch.de>

Hello,

I am actually dismantling a BN6 for restoration. I wonder
which size my spanner has to be when I want to unscrew the
steering wheel (non-adjustable).

Can anybody help me? Inch size and approximate metric size
welcome.

Thanks a lot,
Eberhard


-- 
Eberhard Pietzsch
T|bingen

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Nov 19 14:26:47 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 13:26:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Size of steering wheel nut
In-Reply-To: <4EC81224.8070207@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
References: <4EC81224.8070207@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQiZ=CXfoh65=cncHQQTsm=DfN7RQyEj9HBeQdPoHQ=6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Eberhard

1 & 1/2 inches across the flats.

C

On Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 12:31 PM, Eberhard Pietzsch <
mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am actually dismantling a BN6 for restoration. I wonder
> which size my spanner has to be when I want to unscrew the
> steering wheel (non-adjustable).
>
> Can anybody help me? Inch size and approximate metric size
> welcome.
>
> Thanks a lot,
> Eberhard
>
>
> --
> Eberhard Pietzsch
> T|bingen
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/cnaarndt@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com>

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Nov 19 14:29:46 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 13:29:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
In-Reply-To: <439703BD-7589-4AF5-852C-B19A232C9944@cox.net>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
	<EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>
	<4EC7E7C0.3010904@comcast.net>
	<4F567C9FED4F4D49981CCB958D880C36@LeonardPCPC>
	<439703BD-7589-4AF5-852C-B19A232C9944@cox.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeT6JUBozN9FFKay2qnZEhYXns4GgkaPESi0EEGsNdOLHA@mail.gmail.com>

Rick,

Not certain what you are asking, but I have three non-adjustable and six
adjustable control heads (trafficators) in stock for anyone that is
interested.  See my attached brochure.

Curt

On Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 11:46 AM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>wrote:

> What are you guys with collapsable steering columns doing for the center
> control?
>
> I love the stationary stock trafficator control.
> Thanks,
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Austin Healey-AC Trafficator Restoration Flyer-III.doc]

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sat Nov 19 18:41:04 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 17:41:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeT6JUBozN9FFKay2qnZEhYXns4GgkaPESi0EEGsNdOLHA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
	<EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>
	<4EC7E7C0.3010904@comcast.net>
	<4F567C9FED4F4D49981CCB958D880C36@LeonardPCPC>
	<439703BD-7589-4AF5-852C-B19A232C9944@cox.net>
	<CAJKrNeT6JUBozN9FFKay2qnZEhYXns4GgkaPESi0EEGsNdOLHA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <66CA2E96-B4B9-41B9-A8AB-F5CD7E207464@cox.net>

I'm asking about cars where the column is replaced with something else.
Modern, collapsable types for safety and such. The factory Healey unit is held
vertical at the steering box and the wheel spins while the trafficator stays
put.





On Nov 19, 2011, at 1:29 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Not certain what you are asking, but I have three non-adjustable and six
adjustable control heads (trafficators) in stock for anyone that is
interested.  See my attached brochure.
>
> Curt
>
> On Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 11:46 AM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>
wrote:
> What are you guys with collapsable steering columns doing for the center
> control?
>
> I love the stationary stock trafficator control.
> Thanks,
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> <Austin Healey-AC Trafficator Restoration Flyer-III.doc>

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Nov 19 19:40:26 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 20:40:26 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
In-Reply-To: <66CA2E96-B4B9-41B9-A8AB-F5CD7E207464@cox.net>
References: <COL121-W25142E67FAD0DFA1E3A63BA4C50@phx.gbl>
	<EED0EF48-CC0F-4BB6-9FC1-650D343D3EB2@pt.lu>
	<4EC7E7C0.3010904@comcast.net>
	<4F567C9FED4F4D49981CCB958D880C36@LeonardPCPC>
	<439703BD-7589-4AF5-852C-B19A232C9944@cox.net>
	<CAJKrNeT6JUBozN9FFKay2qnZEhYXns4GgkaPESi0EEGsNdOLHA@mail.gmail.com>
	<66CA2E96-B4B9-41B9-A8AB-F5CD7E207464@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4EC8689A.6000405@justbrits.com>

It's Dennis Welch item, I think Rick.  Rings a bell anyhow <G> !!  
Seems to me he
also has a rack-&-pinion set-up also ?!?

On 11/19/2011 7:41 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote:
> I'm asking about cars where the column is replaced with something else.
> Modern, collapsable types for safety and such. The

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 19 21:20:39 2011
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 20:20:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
In-Reply-To: <439703BD-7589-4AF5-852C-B19A232C9944@cox.net>
Message-ID: <1321762839.88626.YahooMailClassic@web121801.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

We started using a collapsible steering column when we began installing rack
and pinion steering several years ago. You will find a picture of this set up
on our website under BN6 fuel injected page.
I understand Dennis Welch operates the signals with toggle switches on the
dash with his set up.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Sat, 11/19/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:

From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
To:
Cc: "AH Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Saturday, November 19, 2011, 2:46 PM

What are you guys with collapsable steering columns doing for the center
control?

I love the stationary stock trafficator control.
Thanks,
Rick
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sat Nov 19 21:28:16 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 20:28:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
In-Reply-To: <1321762839.88626.YahooMailClassic@web121801.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321762839.88626.YahooMailClassic@web121801.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FD418C06-1D5F-4EE9-B2E4-3DFBB4C0FA19@cox.net>

Thanks for that. The rack and conversion part is pretty straight forward. What
I am specifally interested in is if there are people running with the original
style center hub assemblies, and how  that is wired--if at all.

Dash switches seems pretty easy to do.


On Nov 19, 2011, at 8:20 PM, Martin Jansen wrote:

> We started using a collapsible steering column when we began installing rack
and pinion steering several years ago. You will find a picture of this set up
on our website under BN6 fuel injected page.
> I understand Dennis Welch operates the signals with toggle switches on the
dash with his set up.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>  Marty
> www.jule-enterprises.com
>
>
> --- On Sat, 11/19/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:
>
> From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
> To:
> Cc: "AH Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Received: Saturday, November 19, 2011, 2:46 PM
>
> What are you guys with collapsable steering columns doing for the center
> control?
>
> I love the stationary stock trafficator control.
> Thanks,
> Rick

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Nov 19 21:49:29 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 12:49:29 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
In-Reply-To: <FD418C06-1D5F-4EE9-B2E4-3DFBB4C0FA19@cox.net>
References: <1321762839.88626.YahooMailClassic@web121801.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<FD418C06-1D5F-4EE9-B2E4-3DFBB4C0FA19@cox.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+vGb9hO5=fgOTXZ5+h70LxLK=+mm02V4fwcmBKh7_D5Q@mail.gmail.com>

Eric -

Ahead4Healeys offers to convert your box to collapsible.  You keep
everything as stock, hardly noticeable.

Alan

On 11/20/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:
> Thanks for that. The rack and conversion part is pretty straight forward.
> What
> I am specifally interested in is if there are people running with the
> original
> style center hub assemblies, and how  that is wired--if at all.
>
> Dash switches seems pretty easy to do.
>
>
> On Nov 19, 2011, at 8:20 PM, Martin Jansen wrote:
>
>> We started using a collapsible steering column when we began installing
>> rack
> and pinion steering several years ago. You will find a picture of this set
> up
> on our website under BN6 fuel injected page.
>> I understand Dennis Welch operates the signals with toggle switches on the
> dash with his set up.
>>
>> Happy Healeying,
>>  Marty
>> www.jule-enterprises.com
>>
>>
>> --- On Sat, 11/19/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:
>>
>> From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] trafficator controller with collapsable column?
>> To:
>> Cc: "AH Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Received: Saturday, November 19, 2011, 2:46 PM
>>
>> What are you guys with collapsable steering columns doing for the center
>> control?
>>
>> I love the stationary stock trafficator control.
>> Thanks,
>> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Nov 19 21:56:01 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 04:56:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?miata?=
Message-ID: <20111120045601.12360.qmail@server278.com>

one of my younger brothers owns a miata.  it always starts and and never breaks down.  what sense of adventure do you get with a car like that?  give me a missing, farting, belching british car anyday.  live for the moment!!!   hjim

From thehealeyguy at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 04:26:04 2011
From: thehealeyguy at gmail.com (Bob Abbott)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 06:26:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
Message-ID: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>

I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100 -
completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during the
restoration.
Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to miss and
buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on the
throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with another bran-new
one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all seem to be
spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all ideas will
be followed up
Bob

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 04:47:41 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 06:47:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5Z0vevwFLfjX+dEYdjpJ2bFmX-9C0Q--SdHwnNUVtjaw@mail.gmail.com>

Bob--

You don't say if you have a solid state ignition but assuming you do not
and Jeff has okayed the distributor I would be checking the coil as well as
the integrity of connections to it.  Also carefully inspect the leads from
the disty to the plugs.  Please come back and keep us apprised of your
progress.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:26 AM, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:

> I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100 -
> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during the
> restoration.
> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to miss and
> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on the
> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with another bran-new
> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all seem to be
> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all ideas will
> be followed up
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Sun Nov 20 05:08:52 2011
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 12:08:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mIcKQzGU3OyOFwWq@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Bob

Could be your coil. I had a similar problem when I started up after a 
rebuild. It was an oil filled Sports coil that had leaked its oil. It 
failed when it became hot. I also noticed that the case was almost too 
hot to touch.

It tested OK when cold but it appears that a simple test is not 
sufficient.

Regards
>I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100 -
>completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during the
>restoration.
>Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to miss and
>buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on the
>throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with another bran-new
>one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
>rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all seem to be
>spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all ideas will
>be followed up
>Bob
>_______________________________________________
>

-- 
John Harper

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 05:51:25 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 20:51:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJdg0w8oBezs26zbx=Tun3DR_WYK9bmAmZ0Ve0THseOSg@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

When it is hot and bucking, is the fuel pump clicking erratically?  If
so you are getting intermittent vapor lock.  I solved that on my BN1
by wrapping header tape around the exhaust pipe below the fuel pump.

Alan

On 11/20/11, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:
> I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100 -
> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during the
> restoration.
> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to miss and
> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on the
> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with another bran-new
> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all seem to be
> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all ideas will
> be followed up
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Sun Nov 20 06:44:51 2011
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 14:44:51 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey tech videos
Message-ID: <40BFD753-444D-42A6-A6AF-86C9C8A92194@bornet.net>

I have just posted two new videos on my homepage.

One is an addendum of my previous video on gearboxes and mostly deals with the
mainshaft. The other one is about testing and adjusting the overdrive.

For those of you that might be interested, please click the following link:

http://www.concourshealeys.com/videos/


Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com

From thehealeyguy at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 07:29:56 2011
From: thehealeyguy at gmail.com (Bob Abbott)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 09:29:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Z0vevwFLfjX+dEYdjpJ2bFmX-9C0Q--SdHwnNUVtjaw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPTa0B5Z0vevwFLfjX+dEYdjpJ2bFmX-9C0Q--SdHwnNUVtjaw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPT3jVvteoxis_9TGc-PJ88MA=u9fAotBdws4UZ=WQcvcbuFJQ@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,
I'll recheck all of the leads tomorrow. Remember that EVERYTHING is new. Do
you know of a good way to test a coil? Also, the car started bucking when
the engine got warm - the temp here is cool and the gauge never went above
180 - not hot. Its a points ignition
Bob

On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>wrote:

> Bob--
>
> You don't say if you have a solid state ignition but assuming you do not
> and Jeff has okayed the distributor I would be checking the coil as well as
> the integrity of connections to it.  Also carefully inspect the leads from
> the disty to the plugs.  Please come back and keep us apprised of your
> progress.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:26 AM, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100
>> -
>> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during the
>> restoration.
>> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to miss and
>> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on the
>> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with another
>> bran-new
>> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
>> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all seem to be
>> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all ideas will
>> be followed up
>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From bispmotala at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 20 08:46:18 2011
From: bispmotala at hotmail.com (Ulla & Sven Ordell)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:46:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <CAPT3jVvteoxis_9TGc-PJ88MA=u9fAotBdws4UZ=WQcvcbuFJQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPTa0B5Z0vevwFLfjX+dEYdjpJ2bFmX-9C0Q--SdHwnNUVtjaw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPT3jVvteoxis_9TGc-PJ88MA=u9fAotBdws4UZ=WQcvcbuFJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY157-ds17290BD2BA46872E0EB12ADDCA0@phx.gbl>

Bob
I know this is just short of stupid, but --oil in the carburetor dashpots?
Wrong type of coil is most likely however.
Just a thought...
Sven
Sweden

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Fvr Bob Abbott
Skickat: den 20 november 2011 15:30
Till: Michael Oritt
Kopia: healeys at autox.team.net
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car

Michael,
I'll recheck all of the leads tomorrow. Remember that EVERYTHING is new. Do
you know of a good way to test a coil? Also, the car started bucking when
the engine got warm - the temp here is cool and the gauge never went above
180 - not hot. Its a points ignition
Bob

On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Michael Oritt
<michael.oritt at gmail.com>wrote:

> Bob--
>
> You don't say if you have a solid state ignition but assuming you do not
> and Jeff has okayed the distributor I would be checking the coil as well
as
> the integrity of connections to it.  Also carefully inspect the leads from
> the disty to the plugs.  Please come back and keep us apprised of your
> progress.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:26 AM, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100
>> -
>> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during the
>> restoration.
>> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to miss
and
>> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on the
>> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with another
>> bran-new
>> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
>> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all seem to be
>> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all ideas
will
>> be followed up
>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bispmotala at hotmail.com

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Nov 20 08:53:22 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 10:53:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
Message-ID: <20111120.075412.1639.8426@mailpop21.dca.untd.com>

Hey Bob,

Actually, not stupid at all and an excellent observation. Had the same
problem myself for that very reason. 

Doug

> Bob
> I know this is just short of stupid, but --oil in the carburetor 
> dashpots?
> Wrong type of coil is most likely however.
> Just a thought...
> Sven
> Sweden
> 
> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> Fren: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> Fvr Bob Abbott
> Skickat: den 20 november 2011 15:30
> Till: Michael Oritt
> Kopia: healeys at autox.team.net
> Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
> 
> Michael,
> I'll recheck all of the leads tomorrow. Remember that EVERYTHING is 
> new. Do
> you know of a good way to test a coil? Also, the car started bucking 
> when
> the engine got warm - the temp here is cool and the gauge never went 
> above
> 180 - not hot. Its a points ignition
> Bob
> 
> On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Michael Oritt
> <michael.oritt at gmail.com>wrote:
> 
> > Bob--
> >
> > You don't say if you have a solid state ignition but assuming you 
> do not
> > and Jeff has okayed the distributor I would be checking the coil 
> as well
> as
> > the integrity of connections to it.  Also carefully inspect the 
> leads from
> > the disty to the plugs.  Please come back and keep us apprised of 
> your
> > progress.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> > On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:26 AM, Bob Abbott 
> <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>wrote:
> >
> >> I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car 
> is a 100
> >> -
> >> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during 
> the
> >> restoration.
> >> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to 
> miss
> and
> >> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on 
> the
> >> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with 
> another
> >> bran-new
> >> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
> >> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all 
> seem to be
> >> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all 
> ideas
> will
> >> be followed up
> >> Bob
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage 
> <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> >> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bispmotala at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ec922d28b93b2e005fst05duc

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sun Nov 20 09:55:16 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 08:55:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <20111120.075412.1639.8426@mailpop21.dca.untd.com>
References: <20111120.075412.1639.8426@mailpop21.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <29A76C82-0F8B-45F1-BE3F-77020CCF44FE@cox.net>

That, or an air leak in the manifold.

Carbs not tied together? one will open, the other will stay closed. (I don't
know the 100's well--I have Sixes--they are linked together by the throttle
shafts)

Wilko

On Nov 20, 2011, at 7:53 AM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote:

> Hey Bob,
>
> Actually, not stupid at all and an excellent observation. Had the same
> problem myself for that very reason.
>
> Doug
>
>> Bob
>> I know this is just short of stupid, but --oil in the carburetor
>> dashpots?
>> Wrong type of coil is most likely however.
>> Just a thought...
>> Sven
>> Sweden
>>
>> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
>> Fren: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> Fvr Bob Abbott
>> Skickat: den 20 november 2011 15:30
>> Till: Michael Oritt
>> Kopia: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
>>
>> Michael,
>> I'll recheck all of the leads tomorrow. Remember that EVERYTHING is
>> new. Do
>> you know of a good way to test a coil? Also, the car started bucking
>> when
>> the engine got warm - the temp here is cool and the gauge never went
>> above
>> 180 - not hot. Its a points ignition
>> Bob
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Michael Oritt
>> <michael.oritt at gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> Bob--
>>>
>>> You don't say if you have a solid state ignition but assuming you
>> do not
>>> and Jeff has okayed the distributor I would be checking the coil
>> as well
>> as
>>> the integrity of connections to it.  Also carefully inspect the
>> leads from
>>> the disty to the plugs.  Please come back and keep us apprised of
>> your
>>> progress.
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:26 AM, Bob Abbott
>> <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>wrote:
>>>
>>>> I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car
>> is a 100
>>>> -
>>>> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during
>> the
>>>> restoration.
>>>> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to
>> miss
>> and
>>>> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on
>> the
>>>> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with
>> another
>>>> bran-new
>>>> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
>>>> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all
>> seem to be
>>>> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all
>> ideas
>> will
>>>> be followed up
>>>> Bob
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage
>> <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>>>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bispmotala at hotmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com
>>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
> The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ec922d28b93b2e005fst05duc
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 20 11:28:23 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 10:28:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bob, Interesting one .... key seems to be cold vs hot issues meaning something
is wrong when the material temp rises....probably not wiring, and since you
have done fuel pump, timing, floats.....

I would be looking at:

1. Air leak in inlet manifolks/gaskets
2. One carb dash has no oil
3. Coil - just try another one - leakage tough to trace.
4. Condenser in distributor - just replace it - ditto.
5. Replace the rotor - lots of bad China stuff - hair line cracks.
6. Bad gasoline?

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Sun, 11/20/11, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, November 20, 2011, 3:26 AM
> I need the group'.s help with a
> problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100 -
> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new
> during the
> restoration.
> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It
> then begins to miss and
> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be
> hard on the
> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with
> another bran-new
> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check
> his
> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and
> all seem to be
> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and
> all ideas will
> be followed up
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 11:56:50 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 10:56:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYokU0NKaUeYwV=2e8NWHUhFQ1G+89vzJSaz=WJ112Jqcg@mail.gmail.com>

missed a cog on the timing gear? do not have dizzy in at TDC when
re-installing?
water in gas? loose ground strap, intermittent contact with metal
expansion?  curse of Joseph Lucas?

On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 10:28 AM, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Bob, Interesting one .... key seems to be cold vs hot issues meaning
> something
> is wrong when the material temp rises....probably not wiring, and since you
> have done fuel pump, timing, floats.....
>
> I would be looking at:
>
> 1. Air leak in inlet manifolks/gaskets
> 2. One carb dash has no oil
> 3. Coil - just try another one - leakage tough to trace.
> 4. Condenser in distributor - just replace it - ditto.
> 5. Replace the rotor - lots of bad China stuff - hair line cracks.
> 6. Bad gasoline?
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Sun, 11/20/11, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > From: Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Sunday, November 20, 2011, 3:26 AM
> > I need the group'.s help with a
> > problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100 -
> > completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new
> > during the
> > restoration.
> > Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It
> > then begins to miss and
> > buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be
> > hard on the
> > throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with
> > another bran-new
> > one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check
> > his
> > rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and
> > all seem to be
> > spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and
> > all ideas will
> > be followed up
> > Bob
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 20 12:05:27 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 11:05:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <29A76C82-0F8B-45F1-BE3F-77020CCF44FE@cox.net>
References: <20111120.075412.1639.8426@mailpop21.dca.untd.com>
	<29A76C82-0F8B-45F1-BE3F-77020CCF44FE@cox.net>
Message-ID: <feiic79mnoe7vqb932cpsq494njp94ivko@4ax.com>

A temperature-dependent air leak on the intake side of the engine
would be my first guess, too,  followed by a possible problem in the
high voltage circuitry from coil to plugs.  It is simple to swap out a
known good coil to make sure it isn't a bad new coil.  A temperature
dependent loose connection in the wiring would be a real possibility
given that everything is new and hence probably untested.

If a loose connection doesn't seem to be the problem, you want to have
spares, right?  So buy a full set of everything from the dizzy cap to
spark plugs, not forgetting the condenser and rotor, and try the new,
new set. ( Keep all the good spares for later.)  If you want to be
methodical you can swap out the pieces one at a time so you'll know
when/if you replace something that is failing, or have tightened a
loose connection.

You should be able to check for vapor lock by shutting down the engine
quickly while it is acting up, and checking the float chambers for
fuel level.

It might not be temperature related at all, just a flow blockage
somewhere between the tank and the carbs, with debris that accumulates
over some minutes of operation and then falls apart when you stop.
Fuel tank pickups have been known to do this, also rubber fuel lines.
-Roland

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 08:55:16 -0800, Rick wrote:

::That, or an air leak in the manifold.
::
::Carbs not tied together? one will open, the other will stay closed. (I
don't
::know the 100's well--I have Sixes--they are linked together by the throttle
::shafts)
::
::Wilko
::

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 20 12:09:20 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 11:09:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] connecting rod bolts
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I am working on the engine and have realized that the connecting rod 
bolts might be the original ones. I have read that they can stretch 
and should be replaced. However, it does not appear that they are 
available for a 1962 engine. I noticed that the Moss catalog lists 
ones for a BJ7 and BJ8 with the difference between those and the BT7 
engine being the length of the locking pin.

Should I consider replacing the bolts (very expensive)?

Thank you,
John

From csooch1 at aol.com  Sun Nov 20 13:05:21 2011
From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 14:05:21 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] connecting rod bolts
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <93116D48-94C7-4EE8-98A4-E675AF89513F@aol.com>

Why not have them measured for stretch and taper at your machinist?  Bring the
conn rods too in case they have to knurl the bolt to get a consistent clamp
and big end diameter.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...being sanded

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:09 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I am working on the engine and have realized that the connecting rod bolts
might be the original ones. I have read that they can stretch and should be
replaced. However, it does not appear that they are available for a 1962
engine. I noticed that the Moss catalog lists ones for a BJ7 and BJ8 with the
difference between those and the BT7 engine being the length of the locking
pin.
>
> Should I consider replacing the bolts (very expensive)?
>
> Thank you,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/csooch1 at aol.com

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 13:08:46 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 12:08:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] connecting rod bolts
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYoTpVO3b4yK+EWzFNeazzaOOfWeAkk3=iXC_t0YRy6mkA@mail.gmail.com>

VERY important to have the right bolts,. catastrophic engine failure could
result. This is not apart you want to make due with. The cost of the
correct bolt is far less than a rebuild.
Contact the Nocks or other vendors for the bolts
NFI.
We had a collection of bent rods on the wall of the shop from folks who
used the wrong bolts

On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 11:09 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I am working on the engine and have realized that the connecting rod bolts
> might be the original ones. I have read that they can stretch and should be
> replaced. However, it does not appear that they are available for a 1962
> engine. I noticed that the Moss catalog lists ones for a BJ7 and BJ8 with
> the difference between those and the BT7 engine being the length of the
> locking pin.
>
> Should I consider replacing the bolts (very expensive)?
>
> Thank you,
> John
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 20 13:52:06 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 12:52:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] connecting rod bolts
In-Reply-To: <93116D48-94C7-4EE8-98A4-E675AF89513F@aol.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<93116D48-94C7-4EE8-98A4-E675AF89513F@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120124652.020fb410@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I did not find a spec in the workshop manual; will a machine shop 
know the specs?
Thank you,
John
BT7 waiting for the engine!

At 02:05 PM 11/20/2011 -0600, Chris Masucci wrote:
>Why not have them measured for stretch and taper at your 
>machinist?  Bring the conn rods too in case they have to knurl the 
>bolt to get a consistent clamp and big end diameter.
>
>Cheers,
>Chris
>BJ8...being sanded
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:09 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Nov 20 14:07:54 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:07:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE75DF9A937E00-FA8-AB5BA@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>

This discussion is very interesting to me because a friend had almost exactly
the same problem on a newly restored, no corners cut, BJ7. The car is stock
except that the engine was rebuilt to BJ8 specifications including the cam &
carbs. The engine does not ping on premium fuel. We believe the compression is
under 10:1.
His car would run great when it was cold & even when warmed up, but if he
stopped for a few minutes (like at a gas station or convenience store) it
restarted fine but would run rough & buck so bad it was almost undriveable.
The water temp. was only 180 degrees & this was verified with a thermometer. I
know what this sounds like, but wait. The fuel line is in the stock location.
The carb spacers & head shield are all installed as original. The car does not
have a header. We double checked the timing, readjusted the carbs, retorqued
the head, checked the valve adjustment, checked for air leaks, electrical
wiring issues, did a compression test & a leak down test, etc. Over a period
of time we replaced (one at a time) the spark plugs, the fuel pump, the coil,
the distributor cap, ignition wires, the Pertronics, the entire distributor,
the carbs with another set of recently rebuild carbs & a different intake
manifold. None of which improved the situation. After we ran out of ideas, the
car went to a shop where it spent almost two months. The shop eventually
replaced the stock BJ8 needles with the rich BJ8 needles & the problem seems
to have improved slightly but is not gone. I will get a copy of the shops
written report & post a summary of it hear in the next few days.
Gary Hodson




--- On Sun, 11/20/11, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:
> From: Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>
 Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Date: Sunday, November 20, 2011, 3:26 AM
 I need the group'.s help with a
 problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100 -
 completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new
 during the
 restoration.
 Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It
 then begins to miss and
 buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be
 hard on the
 throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with
 another bran-new
 one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check
 his
 rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and
 all seem to be
 spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and
 all ideas will
 be followed up
 Bob

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 20 16:44:14 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 18:44:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car -- fresh paint
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYokU0NKaUeYwV=2e8NWHUhFQ1G+89vzJSaz=WJ112Jqcg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<CACPMnYokU0NKaUeYwV=2e8NWHUhFQ1G+89vzJSaz=WJ112Jqcg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <91AEEE5C-8766-4E17-B459-A552FC07C664@yahoo.com>

Something in this thread makes me wonder about grounding on a fresh rebuild,
meaning a freshly painted car.

When rewiring the grounds after a complete repaint, do you need to grind away
the paint when attaching grounds?

Greg
65BJ8

Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.


On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:56 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> missed a cog on the timing gear? do not have dizzy in at TDC when
> re-installing?
> water in gas? loose ground strap, intermittent contact with metal
> expansion?  curse of Joseph Lucas?
>
> On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 10:28 AM, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Bob, Interesting one .... key seems to be cold vs hot issues meaning
>> something
>> is wrong when the material temp rises....probably not wiring, and since
you
>> have done fuel pump, timing, floats.....
>>
>> I would be looking at:
>>
>> 1. Air leak in inlet manifolks/gaskets
>> 2. One carb dash has no oil
>> 3. Coil - just try another one - leakage tough to trace.
>> 4. Condenser in distributor - just replace it - ditto.
>> 5. Replace the rotor - lots of bad China stuff - hair line cracks.
>> 6. Bad gasoline?
>>
>> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- On Sun, 11/20/11, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> From: Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Date: Sunday, November 20, 2011, 3:26 AM
>>> I need the group'.s help with a
>>> problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100 -
>>> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new
>>> during the
>>> restoration.
>>> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It
>>> then begins to miss and
>>> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be
>>> hard on the
>>> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with
>>> another bran-new
>>> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check
>>> his
>>> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and
>>> all seem to be
>>> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and
>>> all ideas will
>>> be followed up
>>> Bob
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>   _______                                  _______
>     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>         (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com

From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Nov 20 16:48:29 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 18:48:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] tri-carb question
Message-ID: <8CE75F6098527A5-B0C-B9DCF@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com>

On tri-carb Healeys was there a spacer between the metal heat shield & the
intake manifolds or just a gasket? I know that on the later tri-carbs with
asbestos heat shields on both sides of the metal shield there was a spacer
between the carb & metal shield but not on the earlier tri-carbs.
Gary Hodson

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Nov 20 16:58:08 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:58:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car -- fresh paint
In-Reply-To: <91AEEE5C-8766-4E17-B459-A552FC07C664@yahoo.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<CACPMnYokU0NKaUeYwV=2e8NWHUhFQ1G+89vzJSaz=WJ112Jqcg@mail.gmail.com>
	<91AEEE5C-8766-4E17-B459-A552FC07C664@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4EC99410.3070007@bradakis.com>

Greg Mandas wrote:
> Something in this thread makes me wonder about grounding on a fresh rebuild,
> meaning a freshly painted car.
>
> When rewiring the grounds after a complete repaint, do you need to grind away
> the paint when attaching grounds?
>

It depends.  If the ground is made through a threaded fastener you
just need to make sure you are getting metal to metal contact on the
threads.  It may require chasing the threads with a tap to get a clean
surface.  If you have a male tab and a female connector going over it,
you should scrape away some of the paint to get a good ground.  A bit
of dielectric grease on the connection will help retard the rust.

mjb.

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 20 17:33:59 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:33:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished
Message-ID: <1321835639.5963.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I just watched a video about refurbishing old nuts, bolts and even washers to
reuse on restorations and general maintenance on our cars.    The fasteners
were tumbled clean and then zinc plated.   
 
At what point and in what areas is it not a good idea to reuse these
fasteners.  I have mixed
emotions on which way I would want my total restoration handled.  If I was
paying the big bucks
then I would expect  to have new hardward used.  
 
 Seems like there would be a failure issue or a stretching of the threads
coming into play here after 40 some years.
 
Is the old style British hardware with the circles on the heads still
available new anymore or is it necessary to use old hardware to get the
original look?
 
I guess my point here is that I am very surprised that old hardware is used on
high dollar
restorations.   Curious how other restorers handle this issue.
 
Mark  

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Sun Nov 20 17:40:23 2011
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 19:40:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished
In-Reply-To: <1321835639.5963.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321835639.5963.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4EC99DF7.7030205@htcnet.org>

I restore most of mine, using a Zinc plating kit.  Most fasteners can be 
reused without any concern.  Just in more critical areas, as in the 
suspension, use new bolts.

John
BJ8s

On 11/20/2011 7:33 PM, mark lapierre wrote:
> I just watched a video about refurbishing old nuts, bolts and even washers to
> reuse on restorations and general maintenance on our cars.    The fasteners
> were tumbled clean and then zinc plated.
>
> At what point and in what areas is it not a good idea to reuse these
> fasteners.  I have mixed
> emotions on which way I would want my total restoration handled.  If I was
> paying the big bucks
> then I would expect  to have new hardward used.
>
>   Seems like there would be a failure issue or a stretching of the threads
> coming into play here after 40 some years.
>
> Is the old style British hardware with the circles on the heads still
> available new anymore or is it necessary to use old hardware to get the
> original look?
>
> I guess my point here is that I am very surprised that old hardware is used on
> high dollar
> restorations.   Curious how other restorers handle this issue.

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 20 19:51:05 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 18:51:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished
In-Reply-To: <1321835639.5963.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo. com>
References: <1321835639.5963.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120184406.020fd6d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I started out using stainless steel in some locations then I started 
re-plating original nuts, bolts and washers because some are unique. 
Nuts with circles on the flats, bolts that I could tell were 
originals by the markings and specially sized washers. In some not 
very visible areas subject to rusting, I used stainless steel. I also 
used some SS fasteners in the engine compartment too. I mixed things 
up a bit. I have been using a Caswell plating kit to zinc plate. A 
restorer I talked with recommends clear cadmium but you need to send 
that out to a plater. He just loads everything into a box and sends 
to somewhere in southern California.

John

At 04:33 PM 11/20/2011 -0800, mark lapierre wrote:
>I just watched a video about refurbishing old nuts, bolts and even washers to
>reuse on restorations and general maintenance on our cars.    The fasteners
>were tumbled clean and then zinc plated.
>
>At what point and in what areas is it not a good idea to reuse these
>fasteners.  I have mixed
>emotions on which way I would want my total restoration handled.  If I was
>paying the big bucks
>then I would expect  to have new hardward used.
>
>  Seems like there would be a failure issue or a stretching of the threads
>coming into play here after 40 some years.
>
>Is the old style British hardware with the circles on the heads still
>available new anymore or is it necessary to use old hardware to get the
>original look?
>
>I guess my point here is that I am very surprised that old hardware is used on
>high dollar
>restorations.   Curious how other restorers handle this issue.
>
>Mark

From waschu2 at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 20:26:52 2011
From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 22:26:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rough running, bucking car
Message-ID: <4EC9C4FC.10808@gmail.com>

HI,

                        I have seen similar problems when bronze guide 
are used and the clearance is too tight. The expand when hot and the 
valves hang up.  The last car I saw this on was an MGB that would run 
fine around town but, would start to miss and buck after five miles on 
the highway at speed.

                                                                                                Wayne

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 21:07:06 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:07:06 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+8kZCJNnCwW7ZccbaUNYc3ti=U0bAksFzC_73e7Xud6g@mail.gmail.com>

It's amazing what you find in your dad's garage when you don't know your
*** from a hole in your pimped Honda

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170732196166&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

From agrossman at pacific.net  Sun Nov 20 21:48:27 2011
From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 20:48:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+8kZCJNnCwW7ZccbaUNYc3ti=U0bAksFzC_73e7Xud6g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+8kZCJNnCwW7ZccbaUNYc3ti=U0bAksFzC_73e7Xud6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <870CCC1393654A1F8B087FFD743D3FAB@AlanPC>

Yee haw. Now that's funny!


But really, as much as the seller is a...., er, straining credulity; I blame 
ebay. It's nearly impossible to search any vintage parts these days, without 
looking thru 100 auctions for plastic wheel covers, leapard skin steering 
wheel gloves, fake KOs and I don't know what else.

Cheers, Alan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 8:07 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part


> It's amazing what you find in your dad's garage when you don't know your
> *** from a hole in your pimped Honda
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170732196166&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net 

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Nov 20 22:09:04 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 21:09:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+8kZCJNnCwW7ZccbaUNYc3ti=U0bAksFzC_73e7Xud6g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+8kZCJNnCwW7ZccbaUNYc3ti=U0bAksFzC_73e7Xud6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DF6F4C516A744CDA379A653F91FC90D@LeonardPCPC>

Does that come with attachment hardware for installing on my Healey?  And 
where, exactly, does it go?  On the... um ... or the ... uh ...  ?????   It 
must be the front bumper 'cause that's where it is on the (other?) off road 
vehicles.   It must be trouble free in operation because I don't see an 
article about it in Norman's Tech Book.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 8:07 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part


> It's amazing what you find in your dad's garage when you don't know your
> *** from a hole in your pimped Honda
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170732196166&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Nov 20 22:31:43 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 21:31:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part
In-Reply-To: <4DF6F4C516A744CDA379A653F91FC90D@LeonardPCPC>
References: <CAFBXTk+8kZCJNnCwW7ZccbaUNYc3ti=U0bAksFzC_73e7Xud6g@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DF6F4C516A744CDA379A653F91FC90D@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TrR3YLjhzpSf34EeNRm_j3-=WPz3MeckyOX679xKjNSxA@mail.gmail.com>

No, no, no.  You should never mount a winch on the front bumper.  It will
only pull you in deeper..

On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 9:09 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett <
thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Does that come with attachment hardware for installing on my Healey?  And
> where, exactly, does it go?  On the... um ... or the ... uh ...  ?????   It
> must be the front bumper 'cause that's where it is on the (other?) off road
> vehicles.   It must be trouble free in operation because I don't see an
> article about it in Norman's Tech Book.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 8:07 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part
>
>
>  It's amazing what you find in your dad's garage when you don't know your
>> *** from a hole in your pimped Honda
>>
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/**eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=**
>> 170732196166&ssPageName=ADME:**B:SS:US:1123<http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170732196166&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/thehartnetts@**earthlink.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/richard.ewald@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com>

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 20 22:39:00 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 21:39:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part
In-Reply-To: <4DF6F4C516A744CDA379A653F91FC90D@LeonardPCPC>
References: <CAFBXTk+8kZCJNnCwW7ZccbaUNYc3ti=U0bAksFzC_73e7Xud6g@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DF6F4C516A744CDA379A653F91FC90D@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120213707.02071a28@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Hello... you give it to the person kind enough to stop and tow your 
Healey to the next repair garage! Need I explain more? :-)
John

At 09:09 PM 11/20/2011 -0800, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote:
>Does that come with attachment hardware for installing on my 
>Healey?  And where, exactly, does it go?  On the... um ... or the 
>... uh ...  ?????   It must be the front bumper 'cause that's where 
>it is on the (other?) off road vehicles.   It must be trouble free 
>in operation because I don't see an article about it in Norman's Tech Book.
>
>(The Other) Len
>Vacaville, CA, USA
>1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 8:07 PM
>Subject: [Healeys] Long Lost AH OEM part
>
>
>>It's amazing what you find in your dad's garage when you don't know your
>>*** from a hole in your pimped Honda
>>
>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170732196166&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
>>_______________________________________________
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>
>__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
>signature database 6646 (20111120) __________
>
>The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>http://www.eset.com

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Nov 21 00:25:57 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 18:25:57 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120184406.020fd6d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <1321835639.5963.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20111120184406.020fd6d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <36465F58-BBCC-4BA9-963E-9ADE59E18740@gmail.com>

I replaced most, and had everything electroless nickel plated - new  
and reused. We made new head studs and manifold studs, and had them  
electroless nickel plated, new head nuts etc. Critical items were all  
replaced e.g flywheel bolts
Also used some new stainless steel fasteners.
Reused fasteners/ washers that weren't high torque - eg sump/ front  
timing case cover bolts and the load spreading washers that were good  
(after replating)
Replaced things like brass manifold nuts. Every one was oiled or  
greased or copraslipped before refitting.
It can add a lot to the project, but now, 12 years later, it's a joy  
to work on...
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 21/11/2011, at 1:51 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I started out using stainless steel in some locations then I started  
> re-plating original nuts, bolts and washers because some are unique.  
> Nuts with circles on the flats, bolts that I could tell were  
> originals by the markings and specially sized washers. In some not  
> very visible areas subject to rusting, I used stainless steel. I  
> also used some SS fasteners in the engine compartment too. I mixed  
> things up a bit. I have been using a Caswell plating kit to zinc  
> plate. A restorer I talked with recommends clear cadmium but you  
> need to send that out to a plater. He just loads everything into a  
> box and sends to somewhere in southern California.
>
> John
>
> At 04:33 PM 11/20/2011 -0800, mark lapierre wrote:
>> I just watched a video about refurbishing old nuts, bolts and even  
>> washers to
>> reuse on restorations and general maintenance on our cars.    The  
>> fasteners
>> were tumbled clean and then zinc plated.
>>
>> At what point and in what areas is it not a good idea to reuse these
>> fasteners.  I have mixed
>> emotions on which way I would want my total restoration handled.   
>> If I was
>> paying the big bucks
>> then I would expect  to have new hardward used.
>>
>> Seems like there would be a failure issue or a stretching of the  
>> threads
>> coming into play here after 40 some years.
>>
>> Is the old style British hardware with the circles on the heads still
>> available new anymore or is it necessary to use old hardware to get  
>> the
>> original look?
>>
>> I guess my point here is that I am very surprised that old hardware  
>> is used on
>> high dollar
>> restorations.   Curious how other restorers handle this issue.
>>
>> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Mon Nov 21 01:13:33 2011
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 08:13:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <CAPT3jVvteoxis_9TGc-PJ88MA=u9fAotBdws4UZ=WQcvcbuFJQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPTa0B5Z0vevwFLfjX+dEYdjpJ2bFmX-9C0Q--SdHwnNUVtjaw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPT3jVvteoxis_9TGc-PJ88MA=u9fAotBdws4UZ=WQcvcbuFJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <43y9$UCtggyOFwXP@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Bob

A good coil will produce a spark up to 1/2" long. A simple test when it 
is in the car is to pull out the centre lead from the disturber and 
either lodge the end so that it is about 3/8" away from the engine. The 
water tap body might be the most convenient. Then turn on the ignition 
and press the starter using the solenoid button if necessary. The 
alternative is to hold the insulated section of the HT coil lead away 
from the engine but for this I would recommend wearing rubber gloves.

In my case of loss of coil oil and overheating, I had lost almost all of 
the spark when my engine failed. It had a job to produce a spark more 
that 1/8".

Interestingly when everything had cooled down the full length spark 
returned. So in theory I could have driven another 1/4 mile or so before 
misfiring and subsequent failure.

Regards


>I'll recheck all of the leads tomorrow. Remember that EVERYTHING is new. Do
>you know of a good way to test a coil? Also, the car started bucking when
>the engine got warm - the temp here is cool and the gauge never went above
>180 - not hot. Its a points ignition
>Bob
>
>On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Bob--
>>
>> You don't say if you have a solid state ignition but assuming you do not
>> and Jeff has okayed the distributor I would be checking the coil as well as
>> the integrity of connections to it.  Also carefully inspect the leads from
>> the disty to the plugs.  Please come back and keep us apprised of your
>> progress.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 6:26 AM, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car is a 100
>>> -
>>> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during the
>>> restoration.
>>> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to miss and
>>> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on the
>>> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with another
>>> bran-new
>>> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
>>> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all seem to be
>>> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all ideas will
>>> be followed up
>>> Bob
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk

-- 
John Harper

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Nov 21 01:34:59 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 09:34:59 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished
In-Reply-To: <1321835639.5963.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1321835639.5963.YahooMailClassic@web180110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ECA0D33.8060201@chello.nl>

As long as the bolts and nuts are in good condition and not weakened by 
corrosion, there is no problem except in a few high stress areas like  
studs/bolts/nuts for the cylinder head, conrods, some suspension bolts etc.
New hardware is generally cheaper than cleaning and replating old stuff, 
but if you are going for 100% originality, the new hardware may not be 
identical in appearance to the old stuff. In that case replating is the 
only way.
Also the old nuts and bolts were plated differently, and often to a 
higher standard, than modern replacements.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 21-11-2011 1:33, mark lapierre schreef:
> I just watched a video about refurbishing old nuts, bolts and even washers to
> reuse on restorations and general maintenance on our cars.    The fasteners
> were tumbled clean and then zinc plated.
>
> At what point and in what areas is it not a good idea to reuse these
> fasteners.  I have mixed
> emotions on which way I would want my total restoration handled.  If I was
> paying the big bucks
> then I would expect  to have new hardward used.
>
>   Seems like there would be a failure issue or a stretching of the threads
> coming into play here after 40 some years.
>
> Is the old style British hardware with the circles on the heads still
> available new anymore or is it necessary to use old hardware to get the
> original look?
>
> I guess my point here is that I am very surprised that old hardware is used on
> high dollar
> restorations.   Curious how other restorers handle this issue.
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1872 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4628 - datum van uitgifte: 11/20/11

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Mon Nov 21 06:02:15 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 14:02:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <8CE75DF9A937E00-FA8-AB5BA@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8CE75DF9A937E00-FA8-AB5BA@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4ECA4BD7.8030500@bredband.net>

Hi
Now, this happens because the fuel boils in the float bowls and fuel 
lines closest to the engine. After running for half a mile or so the 
engine starts to run normally again, doesn't it? This is because the 
wind cools down the engine compartment again. Nothing you did changed 
anything really, apart maybe from changing the needles. The only remedy 
in this case is to keep the fuel cold while the engine is stopped. Have 
seen people installing electrical fans that blow air on the fuel lines 
and carbs, don't know if it helps. It puzzles me that the temp gauge 
didn't show more.
This is not related to an engine that runs good when cold and bad when hot.

Per in Sweden

warthodson at aol.com skrev 2011-11-20 22:07:
> This discussion is very interesting to me because a friend had almost exactly
> the same problem on a newly restored, no corners cut, BJ7. The car is stock
> except that the engine was rebuilt to BJ8 specifications including the cam&
> carbs. The engine does not ping on premium fuel. We believe the compression is
> under 10:1.
> His car would run great when it was cold&  even when warmed up, but if he
> stopped for a few minutes (like at a gas station or convenience store) it
> restarted fine but would run rough&  buck so bad it was almost undriveable.
> The water temp. was only 180 degrees&  this was verified with a thermometer. I
> know what this sounds like, but wait. The fuel line is in the stock location.
> The carb spacers&  head shield are all installed as original. The car does not
> have a header. We double checked the timing, readjusted the carbs, retorqued
> the head, checked the valve adjustment, checked for air leaks, electrical
> wiring issues, did a compression test&  a leak down test, etc. Over a period
> of time we replaced (one at a time) the spark plugs, the fuel pump, the coil,
> the distributor cap, ignition wires, the Pertronics, the entire distributor,
> the carbs with another set of recently rebuild carbs&  a different intake
> manifold. None of which improved the situation. After we ran out of ideas, the
> car went to a shop where it spent almost two months. The shop eventually
> replaced the stock BJ8 needles with the rich BJ8 needles&  the problem seems
> to have improved slightly but is not gone. I will get a copy of the shops
> written report&  post a summary of it hear in the next few days.
> Gary Hodson

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Nov 21 06:17:35 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 05:17:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished
In-Reply-To: <4ECA0D33.8060201@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1321881455.82557.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

You want fasteners, check this catalog in PDF out:

http://www.anglodesign.be/images_ap/Tools_accessories_catalogue.pdf

It will take a while to download.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 An5

--- On Mon, 11/21/11, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished
To: "mark lapierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, November 21, 2011, 8:34 AM

As long as the bolts and nuts are in good condition and not weakened by
corrosion, there is no problem except in a few high stress areas like 
studs/bolts/nuts for the cylinder head, conrods, some suspension bolts etc.
New hardware is generally cheaper than cleaning and replating old stuff,
but if you are going for 100% originality, the new hardware may not be
identical in appearance to the old stuff. In that case replating is the
only way.
Also the old nuts and bolts were plated differently, and often to a
higher standard, than modern replacements.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 21-11-2011 1:33, mark lapierre schreef:
> I just watched a video about refurbishing old nuts, bolts and even washers
to
> reuse on restorations and general maintenance on our cars.    The fasteners
> were tumbled clean and then zinc plated.
>
> At what point and in what areas is it not a good idea to reuse these
> fasteners.  I have mixed
> emotions on which way I would want my total restoration handled.  If I was
> paying the big bucks
> then I would expect  to have new hardward used.
>
>   Seems like there would be a failure issue or a stretching of the threads
> coming into play here after 40 some years.
>
> Is the old style British hardware with the circles on the heads still
> available new anymore or is it necessary to use old hardware to get the
> original look?
>
> I guess my point here is that I am very surprised that old hardware is used
on
> high dollar
> restorations.   Curious how other restorers handle this issue.
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1872 / Virusdatabase: 2092/4628 - datum van uitgifte:
11/20/11
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Nov 21 07:10:34 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 09:10:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished
In-Reply-To: <1321881455.82557.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <4ECA0D33.8060201@chello.nl>
	<1321881455.82557.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <012501cca857$56a978f0$03fc6ad0$@verizon.net>

W O W!!!  O'll have a link to it on my site later today. Gotta do some
honeydoes first.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 8:18 AM
To: mark lapierre; Oudesluys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Fasteners or Refurbished

You want fasteners, check this catalog in PDF out:

http://www.anglodesign.be/images_ap/Tools_accessories_catalogue.pdf

It will take a while to download.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 An5

--- On

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Mon Nov 21 08:15:12 2011
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:15:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I am thinking about mounting driving lights on my BJ7 this winter.

What is the collective experiences and thoughts of the list on how to
mount, what type of lamp and the use of relays/wiring/switches etc.  How do
I avoid the vibrations and the resulting loss of bulbs I have experienced
on my TR3.

hanks,

Fred

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Nov 21 08:20:08 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:20:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Updates
Message-ID: <012901cca861$0e681ce0$2b3856a0$@verizon.net>

Recent updates to the Web Site:

1. Service provided by Kent Lacy (Concourse Committee) to punch louvers to
100M specifications on AH100 bonnets. Parts page, Body section.

2. Article from "way back then" on the conversion of a 100 to a 100M. On the
Technical page, Miscellaneous section.

3. Link to All Car Parts, San Fernando Valley, CA recommended by ex-employee
of theirs Ira Erbs. Parts page, Major Vendors section.

4. Link to Goodridge Hose and Fittings. Supplier of brake lines located in
England. Parts page, Brake section.

5. Link to Sailbrite. Supplier of hard to find fittings for tonneau covers,
etc. Parts page, Miscellaneous section.

6. Another link to Anglo Parts, Belgium. This links to their fastener and
tools catalog which is extensive. Links page, Body section.


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Nov 21 08:20:54 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:20:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <4ECA4BD7.8030500@bredband.net>
References: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CE75DF9A937E00-FA8-AB5BA@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>
	<4ECA4BD7.8030500@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <8CE76784B768519-1848-11C960@webmail-m155.sysops.aol.com>

I agree with your analysis & that is what we thought the problem was too. It
is true that if he lets the car cool down when sitting or if he can get it up
to a decent speed for a long enough time while it is bucking it will
eventually clear up. But this is almost impossible because of the
extreme/serious bucking. However, as I said, his fuel line runs down the right
side of the frame & across to the carbs in the stock BJ7 location. The HD8s
including intake manifold, heat shield insulating spacers are all stock. The
fuel pump should run continuously if the fuel is boiling in the float
chambers. It is not. The car is not running hot. He is using premium fuel & we
have drained the tank & re-filled with other brands of fuel. We have checked
the entire fuel system for restrictions, clogged filters faulty pickup tubes,
etc. This only happens to his car. When we are traveling in a group (same
conditions) & it does not happen to any of the other cars including several
BJ7s & BJ8s.
Currently, I am leaning towards the sticky valve guide theory. However, I do
not know how to verify this theory. Any suggestions?
Gary



-----Original Message-----
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 21, 2011 7:08 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car


Hi
eilds

Now, this happens because the fuel boils in the float bowls and fuel
ines closest to the engine. After running for half a mile or so the
ngine starts to run normally again, doesn't it? This is because the
ind cools down the engine compartment again. Nothing you did changed
nything really, apart maybe from changing the needles. The only remedy
n this case is to keep the fuel cold while the engine is stopped. Have
een people installing electrical fans that blow air on the fuel lines
nd carbs, don't know if it helps. It puzzles me that the temp gauge
idn't show more.
his is not related to an engine that runs good when cold and bad when hot.
Per in Sweden
warthodson at aol.com skrev 2011-11-20 22:07:
 This discussion is very interesting to me because a friend had almost
exactly
 the same problem on a newly restored, no corners cut, BJ7. The car is stock
 except that the engine was rebuilt to BJ8 specifications including the cam&
 carbs. The engine does not ping on premium fuel. We believe the compression
is
 under 10:1.
 His car would run great when it was cold&  even when warmed up, but if he
 stopped for a few minutes (like at a gas station or convenience store) it
 restarted fine but would run rough&  buck so bad it was almost undriveable.
 The water temp. was only 180 degrees&  this was verified with a thermometer.
I
 know what this sounds like, but wait. The fuel line is in the stock
location.
 The carb spacers&  head shield are all installed as original. The car does
not
 have a header. We double checked the timing, readjusted the carbs, retorqued
 the head, checked the valve adjustment, checked for air leaks, electrical
 wiring issues, did a compression test&  a leak down test, etc. Over a period
 of time we replaced (one at a time) the spark plugs, the fuel pump, the
coil,
 the distributor cap, ignition wires, the Pertronics, the entire distributor,
 the carbs with another set of recently rebuild carbs&  a different intake
 manifold. None of which improved the situation. After we ran out of ideas,
the
 car went to a shop where it spent almost two months. The shop eventually
 replaced the stock BJ8 needles with the rich BJ8 needles&  the problem seems
 to have improved slightly but is not gone. I will get a copy of the shops
 written report&  post a summary of it hear in the next few days.
 Gary Hodson
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Nov 21 08:54:44 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 16:54:44 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <8CE76784B768519-1848-11C960@webmail-m155.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CE75DF9A937E00-FA8-AB5BA@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>
	<4ECA4BD7.8030500@bredband.net>
	<8CE76784B768519-1848-11C960@webmail-m155.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4ECA7444.80309@chello.nl>

If vapour lock in the fuel line is a constant problem you could try to 
fit a return fuel line at the end if the existing line.
The return line has to go back to the fuel tank at any convenient point, 
e.g. to the rubber connecting hose between filler and tank or through 
the flange of the fuel meter sensor. In the return fuel line an 
adjustable restrictor should be fitted so that you can experiment a bit 
with flow and pressure. Pressure should be around 4psi. A small 
accumulator may be needed. Easily made from a 4" length of 1/2" or 
larger copper tube.
This way you will pump relatively cool fuel through the fuel line 
continuously and cool the system once the ignition (and electric fuel 
pump) is switched on.
Sticky valves are not the problem I think, as the problem clears after 
the engine is hot and up to speed again (if you can get there). With 
sticky valves the problem would worsen AFAIAC.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 21-11-2011 16:20, warthodson at aol.com schreef:
> I agree with your analysis&  that is what we thought the problem was too. It
> is true that if he lets the car cool down when sitting or if he can get it up
> to a decent speed for a long enough time while it is bucking it will
> eventually clear up. But this is almost impossible because of the
> extreme/serious bucking. However, as I said, his fuel line runs down the right
> side of the frame&  across to the carbs in the stock BJ7 location. The HD8s
> including intake manifold, heat shield insulating spacers are all stock. The
> fuel pump should run continuously if the fuel is boiling in the float
> chambers. It is not. The car is not running hot. He is using premium fuel&  we
> have drained the tank&  re-filled with other brands of fuel. We have checked
> the entire fuel system for restrictions, clogged filters faulty pickup tubes,
> etc. This only happens to his car. When we are traveling in a group (same
> conditions)&  it does not happen to any of the other cars including several
> BJ7s&  BJ8s.
> Currently, I am leaning towards the sticky valve guide theory. However, I do
> not know how to verify this theory. Any suggestions?
> Gary

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Nov 21 09:15:11 2011
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 08:15:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] connecting rod bolts
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYoTpVO3b4yK+EWzFNeazzaOOfWeAkk3=iXC_t0YRy6mkA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CACPMnYoTpVO3b4yK+EWzFNeazzaOOfWeAkk3=iXC_t0YRy6mkA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003801cca868$bef627d0$3ce27770$@com>

This thread made me recall when I tore my engine down in 2004 because I
suspected a bad main bearing from a poor rebuild when the car was restored
prior to being purchased by the previous owner.  Not only did I find bad
bearings (the crank pulley was about 10/1,000s out of round), but the nuts
on the rod bolts were tack welded to the caps!  

Bruce
Brea, CA
1960 BN7


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 12:09 PM
To: john spaur
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] connecting rod bolts

VERY important to have the right bolts,. catastrophic engine failure could
result. This is not apart you want to make due with. The cost of the correct
bolt is far less than a rebuild.
Contact the Nocks or other vendors for the bolts NFI.
We had a collection of bent rods on the wall of the shop from folks who used
the wrong bolts

On Sun, Nov 20, 2011 at 11:09 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I am working on the engine and have realized that the connecting rod 
> bolts might be the original ones. I have read that they can stretch 
> and should be replaced. However, it does not appear that they are 
> available for a 1962 engine. I noticed that the Moss catalog lists 
> ones for a BJ7 and BJ8 with the difference between those and the BT7 
> engine being the length of the locking pin.
>
> Should I consider replacing the bolts (very expensive)?
>
> Thank you,
> John
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: 
> http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** 
> options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/op
> tions/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>



--
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Nov 21 09:24:11 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 11:24:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005801cca86a$009f4760$01ddd620$@rr.com>

Fred, I installed a set of Lucas repro driving lights on my badge bar (from
Moss Motors).  The badge bar is designed to support the lights.  I have not
had a vibration problem in the four years and 21K miles the lights have been
installed, and only this month have I ever had to replace a bulb.

I have a wiring diagram for wiring the lights available if you want it.  I
used a SPDT switch and relay to control them, so that I can turn them on
manually for use as daytime running lights or to adjust them, or so that
they will work with the high beams of the headlights.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 10:15 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights

Listers,

I am thinking about mounting driving lights on my BJ7 this winter.

What is the collective experiences and thoughts of the list on how to
mount, what type of lamp and the use of relays/wiring/switches etc.  How do
I avoid the vibrations and the resulting loss of bulbs I have experienced
on my TR3.

hanks,

Fred

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Nov 21 10:02:07 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:02:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <4ECA7444.80309@chello.nl>
References: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CE75DF9A937E00-FA8-AB5BA@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com><4ECA4BD7.8030500@bredband.net><8CE76784B768519-1848-11C960@webmail-m155.sysops.aol.com>
	<4ECA7444.80309@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <82180BCBF52348B9BD8E9F5C053DD79E@oscar>

Did this recently with a Bentley, though an in tank pump was employed and a
pressure relief valve at the fuel rail. So far so good.
 Here in the southwest the road temps can get so hot that the fuel, with the
damn alcohol, will actually boil between the tank and the pump!
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 8:55 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car

If vapour lock in the fuel line is a constant problem you could try to 
fit a return fuel line at the end if the existing line.
The return line has to go back to the fuel tank at any convenient point, 
e.g. to the rubber connecting hose between filler and tank or through 
the flange of the fuel meter sensor. In the return fuel line an 
adjustable restrictor should be fitted so that you can experiment a bit 
with flow and pressure. Pressure should be around 4psi. A small 
accumulator may be needed. Easily made from a 4" length of 1/2" or 
larger copper tube.
This way you will pump relatively cool fuel through the fuel line 
continuously and cool the system once the ignition (and electric fuel 
pump) is switched on.
Sticky valves are not the problem I think, as the problem clears after 
the engine is hot and up to speed again (if you can get there). With 
sticky valves the problem would worsen AFAIAC.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 21-11-2011 16:20, warthodson at aol.com schreef:
> I agree with your analysis&  that is what we thought the problem was too.
It
> is true that if he lets the car cool down when sitting or if he can get it
up
> to a decent speed for a long enough time while it is bucking it will
> eventually clear up. But this is almost impossible because of the
> extreme/serious bucking. However, as I said, his fuel line runs down the
right
> side of the frame&  across to the carbs in the stock BJ7 location. The
HD8s
> including intake manifold, heat shield insulating spacers are all stock.
The
> fuel pump should run continuously if the fuel is boiling in the float
> chambers. It is not. The car is not running hot. He is using premium fuel&
we
> have drained the tank&  re-filled with other brands of fuel. We have
checked
> the entire fuel system for restrictions, clogged filters faulty pickup
tubes,
> etc. This only happens to his car. When we are traveling in a group (same
> conditions)&  it does not happen to any of the other cars including
several
> BJ7s&  BJ8s.
> Currently, I am leaning towards the sticky valve guide theory. However, I
do
> not know how to verify this theory. Any suggestions?
> Gary
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Mon Nov 21 10:18:28 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:18:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
Message-ID: <80335.1ea90a39.3bfbe1e4@aol.com>

I had the same problem with my BN1. Granted it's not the same, but if I got 
 even close to 190 around town, the car would buck and jerk and backfire 
and  embarrass the hell out of me. Once out on the road though, it would calm 
down  and run just fine. It would run fine even over 200 degrees if I was 
going  down the freeway on long trips. I installed a marine bilge fan that 
sucked  in cold air from right behind the grill and then blew it directly on to 
my  front float bowl. Cured the problem right away. I got the bilge fan off 
of ebay  for about $26, painted it flat black and it took a couple of hours 
to  install. Have an on/off switch inside the cockpit sitting on my parcel 
shelf and  if the car gets close to getting hot, I turn it on and problem 
solved. I have  now just installed a new fan I got from David Nock at British 
Car  Specialists and what a difference. This thing really moves the air and 
since  installing the new fan, I haven't had to use the bilge fan. I'm sure 
I will need  it when summer rolls back around and I get stuck in LA traffic, 
but this worked  for me, so it might be worth a shot for you. 
    If you'd like photos, let me know and I'll send  some out. 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
In a message dated 11/21/2011 7:23:30 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
warthodson at aol.com writes:

I agree  with your analysis & that is what we thought the problem was too. 
It
is  true that if he lets the car cool down when sitting or if he can get it 
 up
to a decent speed for a long enough time while it is bucking it  will
eventually clear up. But this is almost impossible because of  the
extreme/serious bucking. However, as I said, his fuel line runs down  the 
right
side of the frame & across to the carbs in the stock BJ7  location. The HD8s
including intake manifold, heat shield insulating  spacers are all stock. 
The
fuel pump should run continuously if the fuel is  boiling in the float
chambers. It is not. The car is not running hot. He is  using premium fuel 
& we
have drained the tank & re-filled with  other brands of fuel. We have 
checked
the entire fuel system for  restrictions, clogged filters faulty pickup 
tubes,
etc. This only happens  to his car. When we are traveling in a group (same
conditions) & it  does not happen to any of the other cars including several
BJ7s &  BJ8s.
Currently, I am leaning towards the sticky valve guide theory.  However, I 
do
not know how to verify this theory. Any  suggestions?
Gary

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 21 10:52:59 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 09:52:59 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] connecting rod bolts
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111120110349.020da770@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A36BD2F1-A981-4882-90F6-05AB66B0642B@sbcglobal.net>

Healey's rarely have a problem with rod bolts stretching. If you hold  
them up at arms length and look at the bottom of the threads you will  
see if they are stretched.  Bolts usually will show a problem at the  
bottom part of the threads when they have stretched.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 20, 2011, at 11:09 AM, john spaur wrote:

> I am working on the engine and have realized that the connecting  
> rod bolts might be the original ones. I have read that they can  
> stretch and should be replaced. However, it does not appear that  
> they are available for a 1962 engine. I noticed that the Moss  
> catalog lists ones for a BJ7 and BJ8 with the difference between  
> those and the BT7 engine being the length of the locking pin.
>
> Should I consider replacing the bolts (very expensive)?
>
> Thank you,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 21 11:14:39 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:14:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPT3jVs1dChKwCTDJODTBcdH6hZX0B4dEL+pTS9u5fZLTOS4yQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82D726CE-BC0F-473B-B713-267CA584AA7F@sbcglobal.net>

Check the tops of the float bowls. There are two styles of lids and  
bolts. The early style did not have the bronze fitting with the  
overflow pipe. It had a  aluminium cap and there were two small cuts  
in the lid to allow the float bowl to breath. If you have the wrong  
set up you will run out of fuel to the engine on acceleration and  
high speeds.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 20, 2011, at 3:26 AM, Bob Abbott wrote:

> I need the group'.s help with a problem that has me stumped. Car is  
> a 100 -
> completely restored. Not 100 miles on it. Everything new during the
> restoration.
> Starts fine, runs smoothly,  until it warms up. It then begins to  
> miss and
> buck. Its worse on acceleration but you don't need to be hard on the
> throttle for it to happen. Replaced the new fuel pump with another  
> bran-new
> one. Sent the distributor back to Jeff to have him check his
> rebuild.Checked mixture, timing,float bowl level, etc. and all seem  
> to be
> spot on. I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Any and all  
> ideas will
> be followed up
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 21 12:07:56 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 14:07:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
In-Reply-To: <82180BCBF52348B9BD8E9F5C053DD79E@oscar>
References: <1321813703.29225.YahooMailClassic@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8CE75DF9A937E00-FA8-AB5BA@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>
	<4ECA4BD7.8030500@bredband.net>
	<8CE76784B768519-1848-11C960@webmail-m155.sysops.aol.com>
	<4ECA7444.80309@chello.nl> <82180BCBF52348B9BD8E9F5C053DD79E@oscar>
Message-ID: <CAJTyXLTytkAKFdn2jiA5PL=8_3PQv0zVQvaMKNA9GgFD66c1ew@mail.gmail.com>

Don't know about chokes on early cars like this, but I have had a
problem with the cam shoe and rod on my BJ8 wherein the rod was all
but frozen in place so that when you pushed in the choke knob you did
not actually release the choke. As a result I was running very rich
and a hot engine was very hard to start and ran rough. It was drowning
in fuel. Found that and things got much better. At least for a while,
but that will be a different thread to follow.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 21 12:22:35 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 14:22:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky cam shoe rod
Message-ID: <CAJTyXLQ1dO2S=hsci0k2N6w-c+tbgxS00nqaaWNa0CKghLsmkg@mail.gmail.com>

After my engine has warmed (to 160F) I can push in my choke. But what
happens is the cam shoe rod is still sticky. I have tried wet and dry
and no lube on the rod over time, nothing seems to clear the problem.
As a result of the stickiness, when I push in the choke cable the shoe
is slow to return and whilt it is slowly returning, it wil slightly
twist, just enough for the cam to then sit on the side of the shoe,
which keeps the mixture just slightly rich to give a smooth run. I can
tell when it has happened because the power is not quite right and the
note is just a little rough. Any ideas?

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Nov 21 12:54:05 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:54:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky cam shoe rod
In-Reply-To: <CAJTyXLQ1dO2S=hsci0k2N6w-c+tbgxS00nqaaWNa0CKghLsmkg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJTyXLQ1dO2S=hsci0k2N6w-c+tbgxS00nqaaWNa0CKghLsmkg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F547A371BD7C4BB8AF10CA2AA3237626@oscar>

New product test opportunity. StarTron.com (Google) An enzyme based fuel
stabilizer/revitalizer. Claims to reduce "stickiness" among many other
attributes. I've had some very good reports from other "classic" car shops
of the products effectiveness.
dp

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 12:23 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky cam shoe rod

After my engine has warmed (to 160F) I can push in my choke. But what
happens is the cam shoe rod is still sticky. I have tried wet and dry
and no lube on the rod over time, nothing seems to clear the problem.
As a result of the stickiness, when I push in the choke cable the shoe
is slow to return and whilt it is slowly returning, it wil slightly
twist, just enough for the cam to then sit on the side of the shoe,
which keeps the mixture just slightly rich to give a smooth run. I can
tell when it has happened because the power is not quite right and the
note is just a little rough. Any ideas?

Bob Johnson
BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Nov 21 12:57:29 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 14:57:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky cam shoe rod
In-Reply-To: <CAJTyXLQ1dO2S=hsci0k2N6w-c+tbgxS00nqaaWNa0CKghLsmkg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJTyXLQ1dO2S=hsci0k2N6w-c+tbgxS00nqaaWNa0CKghLsmkg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801cca887$ccdbf400$6693dc00$@rr.com>

Bob, many people, including me, have solved the problem by adding return
springs to the choke levers.  That is a more positive way of returning the
chokes than relying on the cam rod.  Which springs?  Well, I just used some
that were long enough to run from the choke levers to an attach point below
the carbs, and weren't too strong to make pulling out the choke difficult.
A suitable lower attach point is not easy to find, so I drilled a small hole
and installed a self-tapping screw to attach the lower end of the spring for
each carb.

An alternative suggested by Ed Kaler several years ago is to use ballpoint
pen springs on the end of the choke cables.  I did this, and it worked well
for a while.  I found that I needed two springs end-to-end to allow the
choke cable to be fully retracted without binding the spring, which made
them a bit difficult to handle until I made an assembly.  I bonded small
washers on each end, with a washer between the two springs, using J-B Weld.
The assembly was much easier to deal with.  I still have those springs on my
choke cables, but found that I still needed the other springs eventually.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 2:23 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Sticky cam shoe rod

After my engine has warmed (to 160F) I can push in my choke. But what
happens is the cam shoe rod is still sticky. I have tried wet and dry
and no lube on the rod over time, nothing seems to clear the problem.
As a result of the stickiness, when I push in the choke cable the shoe
is slow to return and whilt it is slowly returning, it wil slightly
twist, just enough for the cam to then sit on the side of the shoe,
which keeps the mixture just slightly rich to give a smooth run. I can
tell when it has happened because the power is not quite right and the
note is just a little rough. Any ideas?

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Mon Nov 21 13:21:41 2011
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 13:21:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dimmer switch wiring routing
Message-ID: <SNT134-W2438CF5CDE9298B11FD50090CB0@phx.gbl>

Hello group, I've ot the wires routed across the front of the footwell, but do
they pass through the wiring loop that routes wires to the back of the car?
infront of the carb linkage? a clip on the side of the footwell?  Cheers Henry
Morrison

From llennep at verizon.net  Mon Nov 21 16:12:47 2011
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 17:12:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ruff running, bucking car
Message-ID: <22797169.149568.1321917167644.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>


From edic at tampabay.rr.com  Mon Nov 21 17:41:44 2011
From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 19:41:44 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
Message-ID: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>

Bob Johnson, Steve Byers and David Porter:
Last Saturday, 19 Nov., the Tampa Bay Austin Healey Club had a Tech Session
at Paul Tsikuiss shop, Tsikuiss Classics, Lakeland Florida. Paul is a
charter member of our club and has been restoring cars for 31 years.
Our tech session was about carburetors.
 Paul asked the BJ8 owners if they had to place one hand on the dash before
pulling the choke cable, and if we had return springs installed. Of course
we all answered that we did. He showed us why that is.
There is a leather piece that the cam sits on and when it is new it rotates,
but after years of heat and cold, water and oil and whatever, it becomes
hard and the cam cannot rotate on it, so consequently the choke lever does
not return to it resting place without the help of a spring. What Paul did
to correct that problem was to: 1. Remove the brass cam shaft and polish it
2. Remove the leather piece and install a piece of brass tubing, he used an
old throttle shaft cut to fit the opening and secured it with a nail, head
on one side and peened on the other. If you dont have a throttle shaft I
believe he said a 5/16 brass tube cut to size would work. Each of us got to
hold the carb he had set up and it worked perfectly, no springs will be
needed. Also, when he reinserted the cam shaft he lubricated it with
Dri-Slide. This is graphite in a liquid that once applied, the liquid
evaporates and the graphite stays, and no dirt will stick to it. This
Dri-Slide can be bought at gun shops. I hope I explained it well enough
because I am going to do it myself and I plan to do mine in the near future.
Also, Paul showed us Nash Healey #1 that he had just finished restoring and
it was magnificent.

Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/39749
Land O Lakes, FL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of xmas_tree_en.gif]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov 21 18:05:50 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 17:05:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
In-Reply-To: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>
References: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <4ECAF56E.8050203@comcast.net>

Sure would like to see some photos ... I can't visualize where the leather goes.

Bob


On 11/21/2011 4:41 PM, edic at tampabay.rr.com wrote:
> Bob Johnson, Steve Byers and David Porter:
> Last Saturday, 19 Nov., the Tampa Bay Austin Healey Club had a Tech Session
> at Paul Tsikuiss shop, Tsikuiss Classics, Lakeland Florida. Paul is a
> charter member of our club and has been restoring cars for 31 years.
> Our tech session was about carburetors.
>   Paul asked the BJ8 owners if they had to place one hand on the dash before
> pulling the choke cable, and if we had return springs installed. Of course
> we all answered that we did. He showed us why that is.
> There is a leather piece that the cam sits on and when it is new it rotates,
> but after years of heat and cold, water and oil and whatever, it becomes
> hard and the cam cannot rotate on it, so consequently the choke lever does
> not return to it resting place without the help of a spring. What Paul did
> to correct that problem was to: 1. Remove the brass cam shaft and polish it
> 2. Remove the leather piece and install a piece of brass tubing, he used an
> old throttle shaft cut to fit the opening and secured it with a nail, head
> on one side and peened on the other. If you dont have a throttle shaft I
> believe he said a 5/16 brass tube cut to size would work. Each of us got to
> hold the carb he had set up and it worked perfectly, no springs will be
> needed. Also, when he reinserted the cam shaft he lubricated it with
> Dri-Slide. This is graphite in a liquid that once applied, the liquid
> evaporates and the graphite stays, and no dirt will stick to it. This
> Dri-Slide can be bought at gun shops. I hope I explained it well enough
> because I am going to do it myself and I plan to do mine in the near future.
> Also, Paul showed us Nash Healey #1 that he had just finished restoring and
> it was magnificent.
>
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/39749
> Land O Lakes, FL
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of xmas_tree_en.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Mon Nov 21 18:39:52 2011
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 20:39:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
In-Reply-To: <4ECAF56E.8050203@comcast.net>
References: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>
  <4ECAF56E.8050203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4ECAFD68.8030307@htcnet.org>

The leather he is referring to, is the small roller on the end of the 
shoe portion of the
brass cam shaft, which rides on a lever of the jet housing, raising and 
lowering the jet.
Pauls fix is to replace that piece of leather with a brass replacement.  
Very clever.
Item 26 of page MD7 of the parts list.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 11/21/2011 8:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Sure would like to see some photos ... I can't visualize where the 
> leather goes.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 11/21/2011 4:41 PM, edic at tampabay.rr.com wrote:
>> Bob Johnson, Steve Byers and David Porter:
>> Last Saturday, 19 Nov., the Tampa Bay Austin Healey Club had a Tech 
>> Session
>> at Paul Tsikuiss shop, Tsikuiss Classics, Lakeland Florida. Paul is a
>> charter member of our club and has been restoring cars for 31 years.
>> Our tech session was about carburetors.
>>   Paul asked the BJ8 owners if they had to place one hand on the dash 
>> before
>> pulling the choke cable, and if we had return springs installed. Of 
>> course
>> we all answered that we did. He showed us why that is.
>> There is a leather piece that the cam sits on and when it is new it 
>> rotates,
>> but after years of heat and cold, water and oil and whatever, it becomes
>> hard and the cam cannot rotate on it, so consequently the choke lever 
>> does
>> not return to it resting place without the help of a spring. What 
>> Paul did
>> to correct that problem was to: 1. Remove the brass cam shaft and 
>> polish it
>> 2. Remove the leather piece and install a piece of brass tubing, he 
>> used an
>> old throttle shaft cut to fit the opening and secured it with a nail, 
>> head
>> on one side and peened on the other. If you dont have a throttle 
>> shaft I
>> believe he said a 5/16 brass tube cut to size would work. Each of us 
>> got to
>> hold the carb he had set up and it worked perfectly, no springs will be
>> needed. Also, when he reinserted the cam shaft he lubricated it with
>> Dri-Slide. This is graphite in a liquid that once applied, the liquid
>> evaporates and the graphite stays, and no dirt will stick to it. This
>> Dri-Slide can be bought at gun shops. I hope I explained it well enough
>> because I am going to do it myself and I plan to do mine in the near 
>> future.
>> Also, Paul showed us Nash Healey #1 that he had just finished 
>> restoring and
>> it was magnificent.
>>
>> Mel Brunet
>> HBJ8L/39749
>> Land O Lakes, FL

From kags at shaw.ca  Mon Nov 21 19:30:32 2011
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 18:30:32 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
In-Reply-To: <4ECAFD68.8030307@htcnet.org>
References: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>
	<4ECAF56E.8050203@comcast.net> <4ECAFD68.8030307@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <DA42BE9F00734C77BF64B29E15B88602@KagsLaptop>

All - The little roller referred to is actually a fibre roller - not 
leather.  The problem is that over the years the roller gets stiff, won't 
roll properly and the cam shoe wears a flat spot on it from the sliding 
action.  I've done the piece of brass throttle shaft fix a few times - works 
well.  When my carb rebuilder did my carbs, he simply replaced the cam 
rod/shoe/roller assemblies with new replacement parts from Burlen.  I'm sure 
that the rollers in the new parts are metal, not fibre.

Further to Steve's post, when I was setting everything up, I f**ted around 
for hours with different versions of ball-point pen springs / washers, etc. 
Couldn't get the choke function to work really 'happily'.  Went back to the 
tried and true system that has worked for me for 30 years with my BJ8 - 
lever return assist springs, just like the dealers used back in the day to 
deal with the same problem.  In my case, I use a couple of the throttle 
return springs hooked to the hydraulic pipe right below the carbs, and the 
choke levers.  For ease of servicing, I sort of crimp the lower spring hook 
so that it won't fall off the pipe when the top hook is released.  It has 
worked for me all those years - the 'weight' on the choke cable system is 
just about right at the dash.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

----Original Message----- 
From: John Vrugtman
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 5:39 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking

The leather he is referring to, is the small roller on the end of the
shoe portion of the
brass cam shaft, which rides on a lever of the jet housing, raising and
lowering the jet.
Pauls fix is to replace that piece of leather with a brass replacement.
Very clever.
Item 26 of page MD7 of the parts list.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 11/21/2011 8:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Sure would like to see some photos ... I can't visualize where the leather 
> goes.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 11/21/2011 4:41 PM, edic at tampabay.rr.com wrote:
>> Bob Johnson, Steve Byers and David Porter:
>> Last Saturday, 19 Nov., the Tampa Bay Austin Healey Club had a Tech 
>> Session
>> at Paul Tsikuiss shop, Tsikuiss Classics, Lakeland Florida. Paul is a
>> charter member of our club and has been restoring cars for 31 years.
>> Our tech session was about carburetors.
>>   Paul asked the BJ8 owners if they had to place one hand on the dash 
>> before
>> pulling the choke cable, and if we had return springs installed. Of 
>> course
>> we all answered that we did. He showed us why that is.
>> There is a leather piece that the cam sits on and when it is new it 
>> rotates,
>> but after years of heat and cold, water and oil and whatever, it becomes
>> hard and the cam cannot rotate on it, so consequently the choke lever 
>> does
>> not return to it resting place without the help of a spring. What Paul 
>> did
>> to correct that problem was to: 1. Remove the brass cam shaft and polish 
>> it
>> 2. Remove the leather piece and install a piece of brass tubing, he used 
>> an
>> old throttle shaft cut to fit the opening and secured it with a nail, 
>> head
>> on one side and peened on the other. If you dont have a throttle shaft I
>> believe he said a 5/16 brass tube cut to size would work. Each of us got 
>> to
>> hold the carb he had set up and it worked perfectly, no springs will be
>> needed. Also, when he reinserted the cam shaft he lubricated it with
>> Dri-Slide. This is graphite in a liquid that once applied, the liquid
>> evaporates and the graphite stays, and no dirt will stick to it. This
>> Dri-Slide can be bought at gun shops. I hope I explained it well enough
>> because I am going to do it myself and I plan to do mine in the near 
>> future.
>> Also, Paul showed us Nash Healey #1 that he had just finished restoring 
>> and
>> it was magnificent.
>>
>> Mel Brunet
>> HBJ8L/39749
>> Land O Lakes, FL
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Nov 21 19:48:27 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:48:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
In-Reply-To: <4ECAF56E.8050203@comcast.net>
References: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>
  <4ECAF56E.8050203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <018301cca8c1$3667f980$a337ec80$@verizon.net>

If you send to me I will post on my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 8:06 PM
To: edic at tampabay.rr.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking

Sure would like to see some photos ... I can't visualize where the leather
goes.

Bob


On 11/21/2011 4:41 PM, edic at tampabay.rr.com wrote:
> Bob Johnson, Steve Byers and David Porter:
> Last Saturday, 19 Nov., the Tampa Bay Austin Healey Club had a Tech
> Session at Paul Tsikuiss shop, Tsikuiss Classics, Lakeland Florida.
> Paul is a charter member of our club and has been restoring cars for 31
years.
> Our tech session was about carburetors.
>   Paul asked the BJ8 owners if they had to place one hand on the dash
> before pulling the choke cable, and if we had return springs
> installed. Of course we all answered that we did. He showed us why that
is.
> There is a leather piece that the cam sits on and when it is new it
> rotates, but after years of heat and cold, water and oil and whatever,
> it becomes hard and the cam cannot rotate on it, so consequently the
> choke lever does not return to it resting place without the help of a
> spring. What Paul did to correct that problem was to: 1. Remove the
> brass cam shaft and polish it 2. Remove the leather piece and install
> a piece of brass tubing, he used an old throttle shaft cut to fit the
> opening and secured it with a nail, head on one side and peened on the
> other. If you dont have a throttle shaft I believe he said a 5/16
> brass tube cut to size would work. Each of us got to hold the carb he
> had set up and it worked perfectly, no springs will be needed. Also,
> when he reinserted the cam shaft he lubricated it with Dri-Slide. This
> is graphite in a liquid that once applied, the liquid evaporates and
> the graphite stays, and no dirt will stick to it. This Dri-Slide can
> be bought at gun shops. I hope I explained it well enough because I am
going to do it myself and I plan to do mine in the near future.
> Also, Paul showed us Nash Healey #1 that he had just finished
> restoring and it was magnificent.
>
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/39749
> Land O Lakes, FL

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Nov 21 20:35:52 2011
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 03:35:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dimmer switch wiring routing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-W2438CF5CDE9298B11FD50090CB0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-W2438CF5CDE9298B11FD50090CB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY166-W1751F1596BD0593BB12C69A5C80@phx.gbl>

Hank,

Don't know if it's anything like original, but mine comes from the switch, up
in front of the footwell and then back over the top of the footwell and ties
in above the trans tunnel. As I say I don't know if it's close to original,
but it keeps the wiring up out of the weather.

Good luck and give my best to your parents.

Bill

> From: dos_gusanos at msn.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 13:21:41 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] 100M dimmer switch wiring routing
>
> Hello group, I've ot the wires routed across the front of the footwell, but
do
> they pass through the wiring loop that routes wires to the back of the car?
> infront of the carb linkage? a clip on the side of the footwell?  Cheers
Henry
> Morrison
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Nov 21 20:42:44 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 20:42:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
In-Reply-To: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>
References: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <132EBB729ECC4211A524EA79A477C239@oscar>

I'm the first to admit that I have NEVER in my life seen this leather bit on
the fast run cam. I'll also admit that HD8 SU's don't have a fast run cam.
The choke cable acts directly on the jet/diaphragm mixture thingy. Most of
the Healeys do have leather bushes on the throttle linkage however. So I'm
not sure what you saw.
 When pulling the choke cable one should also depress the throttle pedal so
there is no frictional resistance from the cam, if fitted (mostly other
marques). Also every 20 years or less (grin) one should lubricate the cable
for Pete's sake if nothing else. If the dash is coming out with the cable
then it's probably past time to lube the cable or fix what ever is binding.
 Note: early cars did have the fast run cam on H4 types and the HS6's had a
weird non adjustable lift bracket of sorts that was not adjustable except
for the amount the linkage could pull the jet down.
 Pretty sure we aren't on the same page.
Don't be put off... I called my physicians office at 9am today and was told
he'd call back by lunch. I called back at one and was told he had the
message on his desk... no call back. I'm pissed that they take our money or
the insurance co's but, can't answer a single question when the cell phone
is in their smock's pocket... vent, rant curse...  OK I'm better now..
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of edic at tampabay.rr.com
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 5:42 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking

Bob Johnson, Steve Byers and David Porter:
Last Saturday, 19 Nov., the Tampa Bay Austin Healey Club had a Tech Session
at Paul Tsikuiss shop, Tsikuiss Classics, Lakeland Florida. Paul is a
charter member of our club and has been restoring cars for 31 years.
Our tech session was about carburetors.
 Paul asked the BJ8 owners if they had to place one hand on the dash before
pulling the choke cable, and if we had return springs installed. Of course
we all answered that we did. He showed us why that is.
There is a leather piece that the cam sits on and when it is new it rotates,
but after years of heat and cold, water and oil and whatever, it becomes
hard and the cam cannot rotate on it, so consequently the choke lever does
not return to it resting place without the help of a spring. What Paul did
to correct that problem was to: 1. Remove the brass cam shaft and polish it
2. Remove the leather piece and install a piece of brass tubing, he used an
old throttle shaft cut to fit the opening and secured it with a nail, head
on one side and peened on the other. If you dont have a throttle shaft I
believe he said a 5/16 brass tube cut to size would work. Each of us got to
hold the carb he had set up and it worked perfectly, no springs will be
needed. Also, when he reinserted the cam shaft he lubricated it with
Dri-Slide. This is graphite in a liquid that once applied, the liquid
evaporates and the graphite stays, and no dirt will stick to it. This
Dri-Slide can be bought at gun shops. I hope I explained it well enough
because I am going to do it myself and I plan to do mine in the near future.
Also, Paul showed us Nash Healey #1 that he had just finished restoring and
it was magnificent.

Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/39749
Land O Lakes, FL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
xmas_tree_en.gif]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Nov 21 20:55:52 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 20:55:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
In-Reply-To: <4ECAFD68.8030307@htcnet.org>
References: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP> 
	<4ECAF56E.8050203@comcast.net> <4ECAFD68.8030307@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <E41DF3AC96534ECFA32D696E8CA393D8@oscar>

OMG! If you are referring to the shaft that acts on the jet (Housing
assembly) and if that, which I've never had reason to take apart in over 45
years due to wear has got to take the award for finding the most obscure
leather bushing in automotive history! I've been dumping them in the most
caustic carb cleaner brews for years and have never noticed any leather??
..or ill effects from doing so. What on earth caused the one Mel saw
refurbished to fail? That has to be a story in and of itself
dp

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Vrugtman
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 6:40 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking

The leather he is referring to, is the small roller on the end of the
shoe portion of the
brass cam shaft, which rides on a lever of the jet housing, raising and
lowering the jet.
Pauls fix is to replace that piece of leather with a brass replacement.
Very clever.
Item 26 of page MD7 of the parts list.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 11/21/2011 8:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Sure would like to see some photos ... I can't visualize where the
> leather goes.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 11/21/2011 4:41 PM, edic at tampabay.rr.com wrote:
>> Bob Johnson, Steve Byers and David Porter:
>> Last Saturday, 19 Nov., the Tampa Bay Austin Healey Club had a Tech
>> Session
>> at Paul Tsikuiss shop, Tsikuiss Classics, Lakeland Florida. Paul is a
>> charter member of our club and has been restoring cars for 31 years.
>> Our tech session was about carburetors.
>>   Paul asked the BJ8 owners if they had to place one hand on the dash
>> before
>> pulling the choke cable, and if we had return springs installed. Of
>> course
>> we all answered that we did. He showed us why that is.
>> There is a leather piece that the cam sits on and when it is new it
>> rotates,
>> but after years of heat and cold, water and oil and whatever, it becomes
>> hard and the cam cannot rotate on it, so consequently the choke lever
>> does
>> not return to it resting place without the help of a spring. What
>> Paul did
>> to correct that problem was to: 1. Remove the brass cam shaft and
>> polish it
>> 2. Remove the leather piece and install a piece of brass tubing, he
>> used an
>> old throttle shaft cut to fit the opening and secured it with a nail,
>> head
>> on one side and peened on the other. If you dont have a throttle
>> shaft I
>> believe he said a 5/16 brass tube cut to size would work. Each of us
>> got to
>> hold the carb he had set up and it worked perfectly, no springs will be
>> needed. Also, when he reinserted the cam shaft he lubricated it with
>> Dri-Slide. This is graphite in a liquid that once applied, the liquid
>> evaporates and the graphite stays, and no dirt will stick to it. This
>> Dri-Slide can be bought at gun shops. I hope I explained it well enough
>> because I am going to do it myself and I plan to do mine in the near
>> future.
>> Also, Paul showed us Nash Healey #1 that he had just finished
>> restoring and
>> it was magnificent.
>>
>> Mel Brunet
>> HBJ8L/39749
>> Land O Lakes, FL
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Nov 21 21:01:02 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:01:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dimmer switch wiring routing
In-Reply-To: <BAY166-W1751F1596BD0593BB12C69A5C80@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT134-W2438CF5CDE9298B11FD50090CB0@phx.gbl>
	<BAY166-W1751F1596BD0593BB12C69A5C80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3DE1E1CA88574FCA91327F3D86C90921@oscar>

Bill, the 3 wire dip switch harness goes through the kickbox top and
connects into the harness about mid firewall.

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 8:36 PM
To: dos_gusanos at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M dimmer switch wiring routing

Hank,

Don't know if it's anything like original, but mine comes from the switch,
up
in front of the footwell and then back over the top of the footwell and ties
in above the trans tunnel. As I say I don't know if it's close to original,
but it keeps the wiring up out of the weather.

Good luck and give my best to your parents.

Bill

> From: dos_gusanos at msn.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 13:21:41 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] 100M dimmer switch wiring routing
>
> Hello group, I've ot the wires routed across the front of the footwell,
but
do
> they pass through the wiring loop that routes wires to the back of the
car?
> infront of the carb linkage? a clip on the side of the footwell?  Cheers
Henry
> Morrison
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Nov 21 21:07:18 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:07:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
In-Reply-To: <132EBB729ECC4211A524EA79A477C239@oscar>
References: <4ECAEFC8.000008.08448@MEL-HP>
	<132EBB729ECC4211A524EA79A477C239@oscar>
Message-ID: <3A1C09D50E2E4E8AB1A9C55D1E5D012F@oscar>

Quote: "I'll also admit that HD8 SU's don't have a fast run cam."

Ok that is not really a cam.. it's another weird device with a roller like
thingy that pushes up and acts on the throttle shaft to bump the idle..
 It's not a cam and that's all there is to it. Big grin...

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Mon Nov 21 22:24:12 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:24:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Cam_shoe_rod_sticking?=
Message-ID: <20111122052412.14093.qmail@hoster902.com>

I replaced the choke cables with teflon-lined bicycle cable housings substituting the original solid wires for the multi-
strand bicycle cables.

Installed set screws at front and back of each cable which hold the housings in place when the cable is operated. 
Therefore when the choke is pushed in, the levers are fully seated. No extra springs necessary.


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
Modified BN6 / 29D engine

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Mon Nov 21 22:48:24 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 06:48:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dimmer switch wiring routing
Message-ID: <CAACjjXdANOa8Au6y794vqhDekhuSKueoGSDRMjb-_oe1EicrvQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,

It's barely visible on this photo, but almost there:
http://tinyurl.com/a5w
It goes freely up on the rail that you see up front, with 2 separate clips
and then on to the bulkhead.

Check other photos, unfortunately there is none that show excacly the
cable..

Best, Tadek

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Tue Nov 22 03:00:58 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 11:00:58 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dimmer switch wiring routing
In-Reply-To: <CAACjjXdANOa8Au6y794vqhDekhuSKueoGSDRMjb-_oe1EicrvQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAACjjXdANOa8Au6y794vqhDekhuSKueoGSDRMjb-_oe1EicrvQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAACjjXeJ=i1h0spJUUgOYtGmQoF6y0j6qeXs=zHFA2Mk=D-5ww@mail.gmail.com>

What would I do withour Ed ;-)

The link is:
*http://tinyurl.com/d4axhd7*

**



On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 6:48 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <
tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> It's barely visible on this photo, but almost there:
> http://tinyurl.com/a5w
> It goes freely up on the rail that you see up front, with 2 separate clips
> and then on to the bulkhead.
>
> Check other photos, unfortunately there is none that show excacly the
> cable..
>
> Best, Tadek

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 22 03:39:39 2011
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 05:39:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] TinyV-12
Message-ID: <BLU166-ds1ECB213B73171578E35D1B3C80@phx.gbl>

Amazing!     http://www.wimp.com/tiniestengine/
GaryB

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Nov 22 05:57:21 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 23:57:21 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Cam shoe rod sticking
Message-ID: <E919DEA4-5E4E-4DD1-B5EE-CF689CE10EAB@gmail.com>

Wow!
I love webers!! I'd forgotten all the issues with SU's
I don't even need a choke!!!!!
I had a twin webered, 1600cc Cosworth Ford powered, Lenham bodied  
sprite, UK rego 152 FLY. You can read some articles here http://www.lenhamspridgetregister.com/Magazine%20Articles%20List.htm 
  before i owned it - But don't tell HealeyRick because he thinks I'm  
some kind of concours nut or something... Let alone me owning a  
foreign engined Healey - with an aftermarket body - for over 10 years!
Anyway, I have had my triple webered Healey BJ8 for about 17 years.
My last SU carbed healeys were my 100/4 and my Bugeye. I haven't  
driven an SU carbed Healey for over 17 years
Webers? 3 pumps of the accelerator pedal once the fuel pump has  
stopped, and webers start first time.... Every time! No choke required!
And the black and white car hasn't been on a dyno, or had it's carbs  
'tuned' for over 10 years!
;-{) <-- that's a Movember smilie.
Sincerely.
Chris
<men's health announcement>
You can sponsor my Movember Mo at
http://au.movember.com/mospace/613/
I've done Movember for 7 years, and this year I'm dedicating my Mo to  
Charles Britten, ex President of the Austin Healey Owners Club NSW,  
who lost his 6 year battle with Prostate Cancer just a few months ago.  
I miss you Charlie.
</end of men's health announcement>

Sent from my iPhone

On 22/11/2011, at 2:42 PM, "David Porter" <frogeye at porterscustom.com>  
wrote:

> I'm the first to admit that I have NEVER in my life seen this  
> leather bit on
> the fast run cam. I'll also admit that HD8 SU's don't have a fast  
> run cam.
> The choke cable acts directly on the jet/diaphragm mixture thingy.  
> Most of
> the Healeys do have leather bushes on the throttle linkage however.  
> So I'm
> not sure what you saw.
> When pulling the choke cable one should also depress the throttle  
> pedal so
> there is no frictional resistance from the cam, if fitted (mostly  
> other
> marques). Also every 20 years or less (grin) one should lubricate  
> the cable
> for Pete's sake if nothing else. If the dash is coming out with the  
> cable
> then it's probably past time to lube the cable or fix what ever is  
> binding.
> Note: early cars did have the fast run cam on H4 types and the HS6's  
> had a
> weird non adjustable lift bracket of sorts that was not adjustable  
> except
> for the amount the linkage could pull the jet down.
> Pretty sure we aren't on the same page.
> Don't be put off... I called my physicians office at 9am today and  
> was told
> he'd call back by lunch. I called back at one and was told he had the
> message on his desk... no call back. I'm pissed that they take our  
> money or
> the insurance co's but, can't answer a single question when the cell  
> phone
> is in their smock's pocket... vent, rant curse...  OK I'm better now..

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Nov 22 06:29:39 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 05:29:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>

Fred,

Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams so they come on while hi beam
is on.   I use a badge bar with the light mounts.

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 7:15 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights

Listers,

I am thinking about mounting driving lights on my BJ7 this winter.

What is the collective experiences and thoughts of the list on how to mount,
what type of lamp and the use of relays/wiring/switches etc.  How do I avoid
the vibrations and the resulting loss of bulbs I have experienced on my TR3.

hanks,

Fred
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of S_Alpine500_2007-motto0008.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of headlight_relays_revb.pdf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Fog-light-wiring.jpg]

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Nov 22 06:46:22 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 8:46:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <20111122084623.IBYP6.140128.root@pamxwww08-z01>

Hooked up mine to the dash light switch.  Hooked the dash lights to the headlight sw so headlights and dash lights come on at the same time.  Use a relay.

Tom
65 BJ8


---- Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net> wrote: 

=============
Fred,

Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams so they come on while hi beam
is on.   I use a badge bar with the light mounts.

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 7:15 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights

Listers,

I am thinking about mounting driving lights on my BJ7 this winter.

What is the collective experiences and thoughts of the list on how to mount,
what type of lamp and the use of relays/wiring/switches etc.  How do I avoid
the vibrations and the resulting loss of bulbs I have experienced on my TR3.

hanks,

Fred
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of S_Alpine500_2007-motto0008.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of headlight_relays_revb.pdf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Fog-light-wiring.jpg]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Nov 22 08:14:17 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:14:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Paging Perry Small
Message-ID: <007a01cca929$673c7370$35b55a50$@rr.com>

If Perry Small is still monitoring the list, please get in touch with me.
 
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666      
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Tue Nov 22 09:10:17 2011
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 08:10:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] TinyV-12
References: <BLU166-ds1ECB213B73171578E35D1B3C80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B871B6DB8D6B46C7B7836D7997583BE7@Mike>

Wow.  How to learn patience.

Mike
BN2

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Gary R. Brierton
  To: healeys at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 2:39 AM
  Subject: [Healeys] TinyV-12


  Amazing!     http://www.wimp.com/tiniestengine/
  GaryB
  _______________________________________________
  Healeys at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Tue Nov 22 12:29:45 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 11:29:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <EEB4CCA3-D9D0-463F-92D7-870DB584E307@cox.net>

That option might be fun, but is illegal in many US states. Proper wiring will
switch the extra lamps off when the high beam switch is activated.

Wiring instructions come with relay kits sold at many car parts stores.

Cheers,
Wilko (CA)
Lamps mounted on Cape International Rally style brackets.
http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/lamps.htm


On Nov 22, 2011, at 5:29 AM, Tracy Drummond wrote:

> Fred,
>
> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams so they come on while hi beam
> is on.   I use a badge bar with the light mounts.
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> Tracy Drummond

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Tue Nov 22 15:51:59 2011
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 14:51:59 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8P17aFaEwEQRtgAUU2V++m_zgzOC7Vpo-kN+Z4wmtR9u-JEQ@mail.gmail.com>

 Fred,
> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams so they come on while hi beam
> is on.

and I have a switch so that i can have the driving lights on or off w
the high beams, but they only work w the high beams on.  ron rader

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Tue Nov 22 15:57:55 2011
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 14:57:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] nuts
Message-ID: <445148F5BE4F4A84BB05E3D0E2DF4C8C@Mike>

Well, nuts is the right word, I guess.  I wrote earlier about removing the
nuts holding on the rear hub of my BN2.  Finally got them all off, but had to
use "Bolt Off", which sort of destroyed those nuts.  But at least it got them
off.  Now, where can I find some replacements?  I don't want to just put a
regular hex nut on, although I guess it would work.  Maybe.  I tried Moss, but
couldn't find.  I have been away from this so long I don't know where the
parts stores are, anymore.  So, any suggestions?  I live in the NW, so the
nearer here the better.
TIA.

Mike
BN2

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 22 16:04:33 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:04:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights - spot/fan?
In-Reply-To: <EEB4CCA3-D9D0-463F-92D7-870DB584E307@cox.net>
Message-ID: <1322003073.60979.YahooMailClassic@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Eric, That depends on whether the driving lights are spots or fanouts.

Typically you need the fans on the low beam, and the spots/long range on for
high beam when rallying/night driving.  In many cases fans on all the time
with either low/high heads, as they do not interfere with on coming traffic.

Some folks choose two of the same type, some one of each - depends on the
driving need of course.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Tue, 11/22/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:

> From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights
> To:
> Cc: "AH Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, November 22, 2011, 11:29 AM
> That option might be fun, but is
> illegal in many US states. Proper wiring will
> switch the extra lamps off when the high beam switch is
> activated.
>
> Wiring instructions come with relay kits sold at many car
> parts stores.
>
> Cheers,
> Wilko (CA)
> Lamps mounted on Cape International Rally style brackets.
> http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/lamps.htm
>
>
> On Nov 22, 2011, at 5:29 AM, Tracy Drummond wrote:
>
> > Fred,
> >
> > Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams so
> they come on while hi beam
> > is on.   I use a badge bar with the
> light mounts.
> >
> > Warm Regards,
> >
> > Tracy Drummond
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From 55healey at comcast.net  Tue Nov 22 17:02:40 2011
From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 16:02:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe
Message-ID: <BB676F1A-5C3E-4F98-A528-1DE1B43B24CA@comcast.net>

OK,


I am baffled (not unusual).   Is the heater return pipe along the top  
of the engine supposed to be natural copper color on the 100?
I have also seen it silver, engine green and black.

What is the vote?

Thanks,

Rob

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Nov 22 17:31:01 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 19:31:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe
In-Reply-To: <BB676F1A-5C3E-4F98-A528-1DE1B43B24CA@comcast.net>
References: <BB676F1A-5C3E-4F98-A528-1DE1B43B24CA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001cca977$2deb75f0$89c261d0$@net>

Rob,

The heater pipe was originally brush painted a dull silver along with the
fuel pipe feeding up to and between the carbs and the carb float steady
straps.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of robert westcott
Sent: 2011-11-22 7:03
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe

OK,


I am baffled (not unusual).   Is the heater return pipe along the top  
of the engine supposed to be natural copper color on the 100?
I have also seen it silver, engine green and black.

What is the vote?

Thanks,

Rob
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-269.jpg]

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 22 17:34:43 2011
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 18:34:43 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe
In-Reply-To: <BB676F1A-5C3E-4F98-A528-1DE1B43B24CA@comcast.net>
References: <BB676F1A-5C3E-4F98-A528-1DE1B43B24CA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001501cca977$becb7930$3c626b90$@net>

There can't be a vote if  by "suppose to be"  you mean what was original.
Read the Originality Guide published by the Austin-Healey Concours Registry.
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of robert westcott
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:03 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe
 
OK,
 
 
I am baffled (not unusual).   Is the heater return pipe along the top  
of the engine supposed to be natural copper color on the 100?
I have also seen it silver, engine green and black.
 
What is the vote?
 
Thanks,
 
Rob

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Nov 22 17:36:59 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:36:59 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] nuts
In-Reply-To: <445148F5BE4F4A84BB05E3D0E2DF4C8C@Mike>
References: <445148F5BE4F4A84BB05E3D0E2DF4C8C@Mike>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJqimabWw7=Pm7HUy=1Tb+XOnoOA5gM8b6hnuEXKHS4wg@mail.gmail.com>

Mike -

Try British Car Specialists in Stockton CA, they will have the correct ones
in stock.

By the way if you are in the NW, you have these guys who have a fair number
of common parts:

http://www.bpnorthwest.com/

Best,

Alan

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 6:57 AM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net>wrote:

> Well, nuts is the right word, I guess.  I wrote earlier about removing the
> nuts holding on the rear hub of my BN2.  Finally got them all off, but had
> to
> use "Bolt Off", which sort of destroyed those nuts.  But at least it got
> them
> off.  Now, where can I find some replacements?  I don't want to just put a
> regular hex nut on, although I guess it would work.  Maybe.  I tried Moss,
> but
> couldn't find.  I have been away from this so long I don't know where the
> parts stores are, anymore.  So, any suggestions?  I live in the NW, so the
> nearer here the better.
> TIA.
>
> Mike
> BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Nov 22 17:42:09 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:42:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] nuts
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJqimabWw7=Pm7HUy=1Tb+XOnoOA5gM8b6hnuEXKHS4wg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <445148F5BE4F4A84BB05E3D0E2DF4C8C@Mike>
	<CAFBXTkJqimabWw7=Pm7HUy=1Tb+XOnoOA5gM8b6hnuEXKHS4wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLEgKN0n0uJa5Wv2J5Me9OHm+me0jj57Ao33mXtPYtCnA@mail.gmail.com>

Mike -

By the way, do you mean the big octagonal nut?  If so you will probably
have to get it used.

Alan



On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike -
>
> Try British Car Specialists in Stockton CA, they will have the correct
> ones in stock.
>
> By the way if you are in the NW, you have these guys who have a fair
> number of common parts:
>
> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 6:57 AM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net>wrote:
>
>> Well, nuts is the right word, I guess.  I wrote earlier about removing the
>> nuts holding on the rear hub of my BN2.  Finally got them all off, but
>> had to
>> use "Bolt Off", which sort of destroyed those nuts.  But at least it got
>> them
>> off.  Now, where can I find some replacements?  I don't want to just put a
>> regular hex nut on, although I guess it would work.  Maybe.  I tried
>> Moss, but
>> couldn't find.  I have been away from this so long I don't know where the
>> parts stores are, anymore.  So, any suggestions?  I live in the NW, so the
>> nearer here the better.
>> TIA.
>>
>> Mike
>> BN2
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From sebring at hotkey.net.au  Tue Nov 22 20:17:19 2011
From: sebring at hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 14:17:19 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Works Healeys and left over bits  1969
Message-ID: <4ECC65BF.9020809@hotkey.net.au>

I was excited by the huge response to my previous mail re John Chatham's 
DD300 and flared guards that I felt additional info on this iconic 
owner/racer/allround character and his Healey exploits would be warmly 
welcomed.

Autosport's 1968 RACING SURVEY showed John Chatham and his Healey to be 
the "second highest winningest driver"
Incidently he was beaten by "1968's Golden Boy Tim Schenken" who just 
happens to be Australian and went on to drive F.1 and then Ferrari World 
Championship sports cars.  He currently runs the Australian F.1 race at 
Albert Park , Melbourne

Taken from an advert in the Feb 1969 Autosport magazine where DD300 is 
FOR SALE is the following info;

. Fastest 3-litre Special Sports Car in the country

.Ten lap records

. Largest amount of race wins for single car in the country, during 1968

. PRICE   UK Pound  1450


To show how Chatham could compete at such a hign number events, the 
following list of redundant ( to him at least ) parts would be a dream 
to have today;

. New 3000 convertible hood with frame   25 pound
.New 3000 MK111  rear axle, complete brakes etc.   25 pound
.3000 Convertible windscreen assemblies, with frame  20 pound
.Steering boxes to suit all models  10 pound
.Front and rear bumper bar assemblies ( over-riders brackets etc.) 

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 22 20:22:52 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 19:22:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] nuts
In-Reply-To: <445148F5BE4F4A84BB05E3D0E2DF4C8C@Mike>
References: <445148F5BE4F4A84BB05E3D0E2DF4C8C@Mike>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYr0BCwPw7N4xPVhxpvRt0SXWA7O1O_WndpoXBfA0sJVRQ@mail.gmail.com>

Try Tome Monaco at http://tomsimport.com/new/index.asp
He's in Beaverton, OR, just outside of Portland

On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 2:57 PM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net>wrote:

> Well, nuts is the right word, I guess.  I wrote earlier about removing the
> nuts holding on the rear hub of my BN2.  Finally got them all off, but had
> to
> use "Bolt Off", which sort of destroyed those nuts.  But at least it got
> them
> off.  Now, where can I find some replacements?  I don't want to just put a
> regular hex nut on, although I guess it would work.  Maybe.  I tried Moss,
> but
> couldn't find.  I have been away from this so long I don't know where the
> parts stores are, anymore.  So, any suggestions?  I live in the NW, so the
> nearer here the better.
> TIA.
>
> Mike
> BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Tue Nov 22 20:54:15 2011
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 19:54:15 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] nuts
References: <445148F5BE4F4A84BB05E3D0E2DF4C8C@Mike>
	<CACPMnYr0BCwPw7N4xPVhxpvRt0SXWA7O1O_WndpoXBfA0sJVRQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1F9A067AFC5A49A3917A9367A5D58F8B@Mike>

Tx.  Will do.

Mike
BN2
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: I Erbs
  To: Mike Sinclair
  Cc: Healey Forum
  Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 7:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] nuts


  Try Tome Monaco at http://tomsimport.com/new/index.asp
  He's in Beaverton, OR, just outside of Portland


  On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 2:57 PM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net>
wrote:

    Well, nuts is the right word, I guess.  I wrote earlier about removing
the
    nuts holding on the rear hub of my BN2.  Finally got them all off, but had
to
    use "Bolt Off", which sort of destroyed those nuts.  But at least it got
them
    off.  Now, where can I find some replacements?  I don't want to just put
a
    regular hex nut on, although I guess it would work.  Maybe.  I tried Moss,
but
    couldn't find.  I have been away from this so long I don't know where the
    parts stores are, anymore.  So, any suggestions?  I live in the NW, so
the
    nearer here the better.
    TIA.

    Mike
    BN2
    _______________________________________________
    Healeys at autox.team.net
    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    Suggested annual donation  $12.75
    Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
    Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
    Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com






  --
  Ira Erbs
  Portland, OR
     _______                                  _______
       (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
           (_________________________)

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Tue Nov 22 20:53:55 2011
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 19:53:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] nuts
References: <445148F5BE4F4A84BB05E3D0E2DF4C8C@Mike><CAFBXTkJqimabWw7=Pm7HUy=1Tb+XOnoOA5gM8b6hnuEXKHS4wg@mail.gmail.com><CAFBXTkLEgKN0n0uJa5Wv2J5Me9OHm+me0jj57Ao33mXtPYtCnA@mail.gmail.com><B7A60C3093D245508703ADDE244FCF1E@Mike>
	<CAFBXTkL2tZwH53hCTG9buRFP4XKam7eO=MpLkWD5Vvt8RE9yJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7F8AAE7BD3444B52B163A5C13F69B826@Mike>

DOH.  I told you it had been a long time since I worked on this car.  Maybe I
shoulda bought a Miata.

Tx.

Mike
BN2
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Alan Seigrist
  To: Mike Sinclair
  Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] nuts


  Hi Mike -


  Moss will have these in stock for sure.  You've probably looked up the wrong
part number.


        57 031-294 $3.60 NUT, U.N.F.
       BN1 from C.E.222571, BN2, BN4, BN6 10




  On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 9:57 AM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net>
wrote:

    No.  The nuts on the studs that hold the brake drum on.  Sorry for the
confusion.  Car has WW.

    Mike
    BN2
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Alan Seigrist
      To: Mike Sinclair
      Cc: Healey Forum
      Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 4:42 PM
      Subject: Re: [Healeys] nuts


      Mike -


      By the way, do you mean the big octagonal nut?  If so you will probably
have to get it used.


      Alan





      On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
wrote:

        Mike -


        Try British Car Specialists in Stockton CA, they will have the correct
ones in stock.


        By the way if you are in the NW, you have these guys who have a fair
number of common parts:


        http://www.bpnorthwest.com/


        Best,


        Alan



        On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 6:57 AM, Mike Sinclair
<phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:

          Well, nuts is the right word, I guess.  I wrote earlier about
removing the
          nuts holding on the rear hub of my BN2.  Finally got them all off,
but had to
          use "Bolt Off", which sort of destroyed those nuts.  But at least it
got them
          off.  Now, where can I find some replacements?  I don't want to just
put a
          regular hex nut on, although I guess it would work.  Maybe.  I tried
Moss, but
          couldn't find.  I have been away from this so long I don't know
where the
          parts stores are, anymore.  So, any suggestions?  I live in the NW,
so the
          nearer here the better.
          TIA.

          Mike
          BN2
          _______________________________________________
          Healeys at autox.team.net
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From editor_reid at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 22 21:49:58 2011
From: editor_reid at hotmail.com (Reid Trummel)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:49:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Paging Austin-Healey Club of Argentina
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4408.1322020499.8174.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4408.1322020499.8174.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT112-W284F0C45821995379C66FB8BC90@phx.gbl>

Does anyone have contact with any member of this club?

Or perhaps the URL of their website (I have been to several outdated/inactive
websites for them; need the current, correct one).

Thanks in advance.

RT

Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA

From editor_reid at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 22 22:13:21 2011
From: editor_reid at hotmail.com (Reid Trummel)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 21:13:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Paging Austin-Healey Club of Southern Africa
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4408.1322020499.8174.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4408.1322020499.8174.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT112-W21041EEF6B4549886CA1558BC90@phx.gbl>

I guess it's just my week to reach out...

Does anyone have contact with any member of this club?

(Their website is down for "Restoration" - cute, but makes it hard to contact
them.)

Thanks in advance.

RT


Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Nov 23 02:32:21 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:32:21 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <CAO8P17aFaEwEQRtgAUU2V++m_zgzOC7Vpo-kN+Z4wmtR9u-JEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>
	<CAO8P17aFaEwEQRtgAUU2V++m_zgzOC7Vpo-kN+Z4wmtR9u-JEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ECCBDA5.60208@chello.nl>

I think there is some confusion about various types of lights.
It depends how you define the various terms.
In my view (but others may differ):

-Town lights (USA) are the small front lights, often combined with 
indicator lights, or incorporated in the headlights. Usually 5W. They 
are switched on together with the rear lights.
-Side lights (USA) are the lights front and rear on the front and rear 
wings on the side of a car. They are switched on together with the lights.
-Side lights (EU/UK) are the lights referred to as town lights in the 
USA, see above.
-Driving lights are separate front lights that are used during driving 
at all time, day and night, like e.g. in Sweden. They are switched on as 
soon as you switch on the ignition. Modern cars have them now as LED 
lights. They are more intense than town or side lights and are used on 
their own (no rear lights) if the other lights are not in use. Sometimes 
they are switched of automaticly when the head lights are on.
-Spot lights are long range high intensity lights (blinding) and should 
only be used in combination with high beam, as is laid down in law in 
many states/countries. Often referred to as driving lights in the USA.
-Fog lights are short broad range high intensity lights (non blinding) 
and should only be used with dimmed headlights or town lights. Only for 
use in dense fog. Often illegal when visibility is more than 200 
meters/yards.

Spot and Fog lights should be wired in using relays.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 22-11-2011 23:51, F Ronald Rader schreef:
>   Fred,
>> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams so they come on while hi beam
>> is on.
> and I have a switch so that i can have the driving lights on or off w
> the high beams, but they only work w the high beams on.  ron rader
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4633 - datum van uitgifte: 11/22/11

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Wed Nov 23 05:06:45 2011
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 07:06:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
Message-ID: <7841D6BE-770D-4B19-8A93-DA2E86F19BF4@cgocable.ca>

Here a good description of the 100S that will be on sale on the  
december 1st at Bonhams :

https://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/433/

It would be great if someone from our Team could buy it .....

Good luck on bidding


Cheers


Gilbert

BT7

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 23 05:41:51 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 07:41:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <7841D6BE-770D-4B19-8A93-DA2E86F19BF4@cgocable.ca>
References: <7841D6BE-770D-4B19-8A93-DA2E86F19BF4@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <86B92D98-E6AA-4824-82DB-F6244BB32B75@yahoo.com>

I guess it will go for around 1 million....



Sent from my iPad


On Nov 23, 2011, at 7:06 AM, Gilbert Gauthier <comkanuk at cgocable.ca> wrote:

Here a good description of the 100S that will be on sale on the december 1st
at Bonhams :

https://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/433/

It would be great if someone from our Team could buy it .....

Good luck on bidding


Cheers


Gilbert

BT7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Nov 23 06:32:25 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 8:32:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <4ECCBDA5.60208@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <20111123083226.AQF5K.240817.root@pamxwww04-z01>

I think owners of old Brit cars used the term "driving lights" to indicate the extra lights mounted up front long before the "modern" car "driving light" term came about.

So---to me, with reference to old Brit cars, the separate large lights on them were "driving lights".

tom
  
---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
I think there is some confusion about various types of lights.
It depends how you define the various terms.
In my view (but others may differ):

-Town lights (USA) are the small front lights, often combined with 
indicator lights, or incorporated in the headlights. Usually 5W. They 
are switched on together with the rear lights.
-Side lights (USA) are the lights front and rear on the front and rear 
wings on the side of a car. They are switched on together with the lights.
-Side lights (EU/UK) are the lights referred to as town lights in the 
USA, see above.
-Driving lights are separate front lights that are used during driving 
at all time, day and night, like e.g. in Sweden. They are switched on as 
soon as you switch on the ignition. Modern cars have them now as LED 
lights. They are more intense than town or side lights and are used on 
their own (no rear lights) if the other lights are not in use. Sometimes 
they are switched of automaticly when the head lights are on.
-Spot lights are long range high intensity lights (blinding) and should 
only be used in combination with high beam, as is laid down in law in 
many states/countries. Often referred to as driving lights in the USA.
-Fog lights are short broad range high intensity lights (non blinding) 
and should only be used with dimmed headlights or town lights. Only for 
use in dense fog. Often illegal when visibility is more than 200 
meters/yards.

Spot and Fog lights should be wired in using relays.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 22-11-2011 23:51, F Ronald Rader schreef:
>   Fred,
>> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams so they come on while hi beam
>> is on.
> and I have a switch so that i can have the driving lights on or off w
> the high beams, but they only work w the high beams on.  ron rader
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4633 - datum van uitgifte: 11/22/11
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Nov 23 06:37:12 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 8:37:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <7841D6BE-770D-4B19-8A93-DA2E86F19BF4@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <20111123083712.29KJK.240860.root@pamxwww04-z01>

A "true" 100S??


---- Gilbert Gauthier <comkanuk at cgocable.ca> wrote: 

=============
Here a good description of the 100S that will be on sale on the  
december 1st at Bonhams :

https://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/433/

It would be great if someone from our Team could buy it .....

Good luck on bidding


Cheers


Gilbert

BT7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 23 06:49:29 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:49:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <20111123083712.29KJK.240860.root@pamxwww04-z01>
References: <20111123083712.29KJK.240860.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Message-ID: <A86E1082-3D8A-4FFA-80A9-11FA127B9F22@yahoo.com>

A true 100s.... The true 100s....read the description



Sent from my iPad


On Nov 23, 2011, at 8:37 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

A "true" 100S??


---- Gilbert Gauthier <comkanuk at cgocable.ca> wrote:

=============
Here a good description of the 100S that will be on sale on the
december 1st at Bonhams :

https://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/433/

It would be great if someone from our Team could buy it .....

Good luck on bidding


Cheers


Gilbert

BT7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Nov 23 07:52:54 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 9:52:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
Message-ID: <20111123095254.3SCW8.241436.root@pamxwww04-z01>

The only reason I asked was that this appeared to be a "prototype" leading to the 100S--------but not "technically" one of the 52 100S's.

It was listed as "1953-55 Austin-Healey Special Test Car/100S Prototype Sports-", and they said "As part of his original Austin-Healey Hundred production agreement with Leonard Lord of the British Motor Corporation, specialist constructor Donald Healey had undertaken to produce four Special Test Cars for racing and record breaking"

So, it is a historic and very valuable car, but my question was --was it truly one of THE 52 (I believe) 100S models that we hear so much about.

No problem either way--it is a valuable car.

tom,



---- Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
A true 100s.... The true 100s....read the description



Sent from my iPad


On Nov 23, 2011, at 8:37 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

A "true" 100S??


---- Gilbert Gauthier <comkanuk at cgocable.ca> wrote: 

=============
Here a good description of the 100S that will be on sale on the  
december 1st at Bonhams :

https://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/433/

It would be great if someone from our Team could buy it .....

Good luck on bidding


Cheers


Gilbert

BT7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
_______________________________________________
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Nov 23 08:17:18 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:17:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <EEB4CCA3-D9D0-463F-92D7-870DB584E307@cox.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>
	<EEB4CCA3-D9D0-463F-92D7-870DB584E307@cox.net>
Message-ID: <009c01cca9f2$fd54bab0$f7fe3010$@rr.com>

A cursory research on the internet does not provide any clear answer to the
question of how to use the driving lights in conjunction with the
headlights.  The law appears to vary depending on which state you are in.
Most of the information I find has to do with modern vehicles, many of which
have auxiliary lights from the factory.  Eric may be right that it is
illegal in some states to use the driving lights with the high beams.
However, I don't understand the logic of that.

The Healey headlights, even on high beam, are nowhere near as bright as
modern vehicle lights.  I wanted to use my driving lights as an auxiliary
light source at night to supplement what is available from the headlights.
Thus, on the automatic side of the switch I wired them to come on with the
high beams.  The thought is, if I'm using high beams/driving lights at night
and meet oncoming traffic, I switch to low beams with the floor switch and
the driving lights go out, too.  On a two-lane road at night without
traffic, what is the problem with high beams and driving lights together?
During the day, I can also turn on the driving lights manually to use as
daytime running lights if I choose while leaving the headlights off.  I
usually do this only on two-lane roads to help oncoming traffic see me.

As someone who has done quite a bit of driving on back roads all over the
country between midnight and 6:00 am, I am convinced that high beams are
becoming useless.  No matter where you are, or at what time of the night,
turning on your high beams is a guarantee that another car will appear on
the curve ahead of you.  There is just too much traffic for high beams now.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 2:30 PM
Cc: AH Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights

That option might be fun, but is illegal in many US states. Proper wiring
will
switch the extra lamps off when the high beam switch is activated.

Wiring instructions come with relay kits sold at many car parts stores.

Cheers,
Wilko (CA)

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Nov 23 08:18:18 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 07:18:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <CAO8P17aFaEwEQRtgAUU2V++m_zgzOC7Vpo-kN+Z4wmtR9u-JEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net>
	<CAO8P17aFaEwEQRtgAUU2V++m_zgzOC7Vpo-kN+Z4wmtR9u-JEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004c01cca9f3$21742a70$645c7f50$@charter.net>

Ron,

I use the "overdrive switch" since I have a 5 speed.

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of F Ronald Rader
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 2:52 PM
To: List Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights

 Fred,
> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams so they come on while hi 
> beam is on.

and I have a switch so that i can have the driving lights on or off w the
high beams, but they only work w the high beams on.  ron rader
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 08:29:22 2011
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:29:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <20111123095254.3SCW8.241436.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Message-ID: <1744551439.189382.1322062162808.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Interesting question as also brought up by the auction house is if you owned this car, to what period would you restore this car if you did?  Would it be brought back to the original 1953 or the 1955 iteration?  Nice problem to have if you were made of money...

Mike Brouillette
59 Bt7 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>
To: "Jose Vicente Vargas" <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 9:52:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

The only reason I asked was that this appeared to be a "prototype" leading to the 100S--------but not "technically" one of the 52 100S's.

It was listed as "1953-55 Austin-Healey Special Test Car/100S Prototype Sports-", and they said "As part of his original Austin-Healey Hundred production agreement with Leonard Lord of the British Motor Corporation, specialist constructor Donald Healey had undertaken to produce four Special Test Cars for racing and record breaking"

So, it is a historic and very valuable car, but my question was --was it truly one of THE 52 (I believe) 100S models that we hear so much about.

No problem either way--it is a valuable car.

tom,

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Nov 23 08:41:14 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:41:14 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <1744551439.189382.1322062162808.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1744551439.189382.1322062162808.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4ECD141A.4010000@chello.nl>

This car has such a stunning history that in my view  it should be left 
largely as is but made in a car that can be driven in events that it was 
designed, build, improved, modified for. No paint just restore rot and 
repair mechanicals.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 23-11-2011 16:29, m.brouillette at comcast.net schreef:
> Interesting question as also brought up by the auction house is if you owned this car, to what period would you restore this car if you did?  Would it be brought back to the original 1953 or the 1955 iteration?  Nice problem to have if you were made of money...
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 Bt7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Felts"<tomfelts at windstream.net>
> To: "Jose Vicente Vargas"<jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
> Cc: "Healey List"<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 9:52:54 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
>
> The only reason I asked was that this appeared to be a "prototype" leading to the 100S--------but not "technically" one of the 52 100S's.
>
> It was listed as "1953-55 Austin-Healey Special Test Car/100S Prototype Sports-", and they said "As part of his original Austin-Healey Hundred production agreement with Leonard Lord of the British Motor Corporation, specialist constructor Donald Healey had undertaken to produce four Special Test Cars for racing and record breaking"
>
> So, it is a historic and very valuable car, but my question was --was it truly one of THE 52 (I believe) 100S models that we hear so much about.
>
> No problem either way--it is a valuable car.
>
> tom,
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4633 - datum van uitgifte: 11/22/11

From robertlarson at att.net  Wed Nov 23 08:51:30 2011
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:51:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <20111123083226.AQF5K.240817.root@pamxwww04-z01>
References: <20111123083226.AQF5K.240817.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Message-ID: <4ECD1682.2000205@att.net>

I thought by Joe Lucas's definition "driving lights" were any that actually 
worked while the vehicle was moving under its own power.

Bob

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Nov 23 08:58:03 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:58:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <4ECD141A.4010000@chello.nl>
References: <1744551439.189382.1322062162808.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4ECD141A.4010000@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925E99@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

To leave it as it is, the car will be too expensive. As there is no real value
in a car which looks awful (have seen and touched the car last year) as it is
today, I presume the owner wants to bring it back to drivable condition. And I
am sure the new owner knows what he will do with it. Any way then its his car
and his decision. Perhaps he may have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But why
shall we care? We can`t influence him.
Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car again,
when it goes into a private collection.

Josef Eckert
Germany



-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Oudesluys
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 16:41
An: m.brouillette at comcast.net
Cc: Healey List
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

This car has such a stunning history that in my view  it should be left
largely as is but made in a car that can be driven in events that it was
designed, build, improved, modified for. No paint just restore rot and repair
mechanicals.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 23-11-2011 16:29, m.brouillette at comcast.net schreef:
> Interesting question as also brought up by the auction house is if you owned
this car, to what period would you restore this car if you did?  Would it be
brought back to the original 1953 or the 1955 iteration?  Nice problem to have
if you were made of money...
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 Bt7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Felts"<tomfelts at windstream.net>
> To: "Jose Vicente Vargas"<jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
> Cc: "Healey List"<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 9:52:54 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
>
> The only reason I asked was that this appeared to be a "prototype" leading
to the 100S--------but not "technically" one of the 52 100S's.
>
> It was listed as "1953-55 Austin-Healey Special Test Car/100S Prototype
Sports-", and they said "As part of his original Austin-Healey Hundred
production agreement with Leonard Lord of the British Motor Corporation,
specialist constructor Donald Healey had undertaken to produce four Special
Test Cars for racing and record breaking"
>
> So, it is a historic and very valuable car, but my question was --was it
truly one of THE 52 (I believe) 100S models that we hear so much about.
>
> No problem either way--it is a valuable car.
>
> tom,

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 23 09:04:58 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:04:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925E99@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
References: <1744551439.189382.1322062162808.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4ECD141A.4010000@chello.nl>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925E99@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <1322064298.41998.YahooMailNeo@web120501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The only thing we could do is make a contest on the final price.

My estimate
1.2 million dollars


 

> Sent:Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:58 AM
>Subject:[Healeys] Lot No: 433
> 
>To leave it as it is, the car will be too
expensive. As there is no real value
>in a car which looks awful (have seen
and touched the car last year) as it is
>today, I presume the owner wants to
bring it back to drivable condition. And I
>am sure the new owner knows what
he will do with it. Any way then its his car
>and his decision. Perhaps he may
have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But why
>shall we care? We can`t influence
him.
>Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car
again,
>when it goes into a private collection.
>
>Josef Eckert
>Germany
>
>
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von:
healeys-bounces at autox.team.net[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Oudesluys
>Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 16:41
>An:
m.brouillette at comcast.net
>Cc: Healey List
>Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
>
>This car has such a stunning history that in my view  it should be left
>largely as is but made in a car that can be driven in events that it was
>designed, build, improved, modified for. No paint just restore rot and repair
>mechanicals.
>Kees Oudesluijs
>NL
>
>Op 23-11-2011 16:29,
m.brouillette at comcast.netschreef:
>> Interesting question as also brought up
by the auction house is if you owned
>this car, to what period would you
restore this car if you did?  Would it be
>brought back to the original 1953
or the 1955 iteration?  Nice problem to have
>if you were made of money...
>>
>> Mike Brouillette
>> 59 Bt7
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tom
Felts"<tomfelts at windstream.net>
>> To: "Jose Vicente
Vargas"<jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
>> Cc: "Healey List"<healeys at autox.team.net>
>>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 9:52:54 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lot
No: 433
>>
>> The only reason I asked was that this appeared to be a
"prototype" leading
>to the 100S--------but not "technically" one of the 52
100S's.
>>
>> It was listed as "1953-55 Austin-Healey Special Test Car/100S
Prototype
>Sports-", and they said "As part of his original Austin-Healey
Hundred
>production agreement with Leonard Lord of the British Motor
Corporation,
>specialist constructor Donald Healey had undertaken to produce
four Special
>Test Cars for racing and record breaking"
>>
>> So, it is a
historic and very valuable car, but my question was --was it
>truly one of THE
52 (I believe) 100S models that we hear so much about.
>>
>> No problem either
way--it is a valuable car.
>>
>> tom,
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Nov 23 09:09:33 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:09:33 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <1322064298.41998.YahooMailNeo@web120501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1744551439.189382.1322062162808.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4ECD141A.4010000@chello.nl>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925E99@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<1322064298.41998.YahooMailNeo@web120501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EBE@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

I am with you

Von: Josi Vicente Vargas [mailto:jvvmusme at yahoo.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 17:05
An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

The only thing we could do is make a contest on the final price.

My estimate 1.2 million dollars




Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:58 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

To leave it as it is, the car will be too expensive. As there is no real
value
in a car which looks awful (have seen and touched the car last year) as it is
today, I presume the owner wants to bring it back to drivable condition. And
I
am sure the new owner knows what he will do with it. Any way then its his car
and his decision. Perhaps he may have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But why
shall we care? We can`t influence him.
Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car again,
when it goes into a private collection.

Josef Eckert
Germany

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Nov 23 09:15:01 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:15:01 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EBE@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
References: <1744551439.189382.1322062162808.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4ECD141A.4010000@chello.nl>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925E99@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<1322064298.41998.YahooMailNeo@web120501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EBE@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EC4@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

I am with you, but not in dollars, my estimate is 1.2 Pound Sterling

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Eckert, Josef
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 17:10
An: Healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

I am with you

Von: Josi Vicente Vargas [mailto:jvvmusme at yahoo.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 17:05
An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

The only thing we could do is make a contest on the final price.

My estimate 1.2 million dollars




Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:58 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

To leave it as it is, the car will be too expensive. As there is no real value
in a car which looks awful (have seen and touched the car last year) as it is
today, I presume the owner wants to bring it back to drivable condition. And I
am sure the new owner knows what he will do with it. Any way then its his car
and his decision. Perhaps he may have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But why
shall we care? We can`t influence him.
Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car again,
when it goes into a private collection.

Josef Eckert
Germany

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Nov 23 09:28:19 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:28:19 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EDD@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

I am with you, but not in dollars, my estimate is 1.2 Pound Sterling

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Eckert, Josef
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 17:10
An: Healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

I am with you

Von: Josi Vicente Vargas [mailto:jvvmusme at yahoo.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 17:05
An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

The only thing we could do is make a contest on the final price.

My estimate 1.2 million dollars




Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:58 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

To leave it as it is, the car will be too expensive. As there is no real value
in a car which looks awful (have seen and touched the car last year) as it is
today, I presume the owner wants to bring it back to drivable condition. And I
am sure the new owner knows what he will do with it. Any way then its his car
and his decision. Perhaps he may have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But why
shall we care? We can`t influence him.
Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car again,
when it goes into a private collection.

Josef Eckert
Germany

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 09:35:40 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:35:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EC4@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <307164860.174262.1322066140529.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Nah ... no more than $750K (US$). 

As is, it's only a museum piece. Restored and driveable, it loses its cachet. But, if some gazillionaire 'just has to have it' who knows ... 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I am with you, but not in dollars, my estimate is 1.2 Pound Sterling 



I am with you 


The only thing we could do is make a contest on the final price. 

My estimate 1.2 million dollars 




Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:58 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433 

To leave it as it is, the car will be too expensive. As there is no real value 
in a car which looks awful (have seen and touched the car last year) as it is 
today, I presume the owner wants to bring it back to drivable condition. And I 
am sure the new owner knows what he will do with it. Any way then its his car 
and his decision. Perhaps he may have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But why 
shall we care? We can`t influence him. 
Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car again, 
when it goes into a private collection. 

Josef Eckert 
Germany 
_______________________________________________ 

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Nov 23 09:39:36 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:39:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <307164860.174262.1322066140529.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EC4@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<307164860.174262.1322066140529.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EF7@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

As far as I know the seller refused an offer of 750 K Pound Sterling already!

Von: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 17:36
An: Eckert, Josef
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

Nah ... no more than $750K (US$).

As is, it's only a museum piece.  Restored and driveable, it loses its cachet.  But, if some gazillionaire 'just has to have it' who knows ...

Bob
--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

________________________________


I am with you, but not in dollars, my estimate is 1.2 Pound Sterling



I am with you


The only thing we could do is make a contest on the final price.

My estimate 1.2 million dollars




Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:58 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

To leave it as it is, the car will be too expensive. As there is no real value
in a car which looks awful (have seen and touched the car last year) as it is
today, I presume the owner wants to bring it back to drivable condition. And I
am sure the new owner knows what he will do with it. Any way then its his car
and his decision. Perhaps he may have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But why
shall we care? We can`t influence him.
Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car again,
when it goes into a private collection.

Josef Eckert
Germany
_______________________________________________

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 09:57:48 2011
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:57:48 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
References: <CAPAC+V6rpDtEVjJ5DW5sd2NnNJHPm94cTfS5614OmKLF4smH+Q@mail.gmail.com><002401cca91a$c988eea0$5c9acbe0$@charter.net><CAO8P17aFaEwEQRtgAUU2V++m_zgzOC7Vpo-kN+Z4wmtR9u-JEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4ECCBDA5.60208@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <194CDC62617B4CFCBE51DE0A5676FAB5@Mike>

I once was told that long ago, the lights on British cars did not have high
and low beams, but were adjusted so that the near side was aimed farther down
the road, and when the lights were "dipped", that light went out, and the
light on the wing showed where the edge of the car was.

I also have heard that the side lamps came on when the brake lights came on,
so as to alert pedestrians you were stopping for them.

Maybe, maybe not.

Mike
BN2

From edriver at sasktel.net  Wed Nov 23 10:18:45 2011
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 11:18:45 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EDD@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
References: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EDD@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <4ECD2AF5.500@sasktel.net>

Hi Josef

I'm in at 1.35 million GBP
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon



Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote:
> I am with you, but not in dollars, my estimate is 1.2 Pound Sterling
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von Eckert, Josef
> Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 17:10
> An: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 10:33:15 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:33:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925EF7@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <1028678915.178369.1322069595896.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Interesting, but doesn't mean he'll get more than that at auction. Of course, he could get a lot more. 

Strange things happen at auctions. 

bs 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

As far as I know the seller refused an offer of 750 K Pound Sterling already! 



Nah ... no more than $750K (US$). 

As is, it's only a museum piece. Restored and driveable, it loses its cachet. But, if some gazillionaire 'just has to have it' who knows ... 

Bob 
-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

________________________________ 


I am with you, but not in dollars, my estimate is 1.2 Pound Sterling 



I am with you 


The only thing we could do is make a contest on the final price. 

My estimate 1.2 million dollars 




Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:58 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433 

To leave it as it is, the car will be too expensive. As there is no real value 
in a car which looks awful (have seen and touched the car last year) as it is 
today, I presume the owner wants to bring it back to drivable condition. And I 
am sure the new owner knows what he will do with it. Any way then its his car 
and his decision. Perhaps he may have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But why 
shall we care? We can`t influence him. 
Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car again, 
when it goes into a private collection. 

Josef Eckert 
Germany 

From editor_reid at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 23 11:10:24 2011
From: editor_reid at hotmail.com (Reid Trummel)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:10:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4579.1322069619.8174.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4579.1322069619.8174.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT112-W45DCD1C02365453F47902C8BC90@phx.gbl>

There will be a major feature on this car and this sale in an upcoming issue
of HEALEY MARQUE, with several never-before/seldom seen photos and some
insider info.  For example, an inside source has told us that he expects the
car to sell for a figure beginning with a 7 or an 8, as in 700,000-899,999 UK
Pounds.  There's more.

This is a fascinating chapter in the history of what could be labeled the most
interesting Austin-Healey ever made.   I predicted in 2008 that it would not
be too long before a 100S sold for more than $1m, and I think that this is
going to be that sale.

My vote for what to do with it (not that the new owner is likely to put it to
a vote!) is to restore it to the high point of its history; namely, what it
looked like at the beginning of the 1955 Le Mans.

Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA


> Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:58:03 +0100
> From: <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
> Message-ID:
>
<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925E99 at HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM
>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> To leave it as it is, the car will be too expensive. As there is no real
value
> in a car which looks awful (have seen and touched the car last year) as it
is
> today, I presume the owner wants to bring it back to drivable condition. And
I
> am sure the new owner knows what he will do with it. Any way then its his
car
> and his decision. Perhaps he may have sleepless nights, perhaps not. But
why
> shall we care? We can`t influence him.
> Anyway we may need to await his decision, perhaps we never see the car
again,
> when it goes into a private collection.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Germany

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 23 11:58:18 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:58:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <4ECCBDA5.60208@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1322074698.40124.YahooMailClassic@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

No confusion here - all lights are driving lights or they would not be on the
car for a particular purpose .....

everyone understands pecific lights are side, head low beam, head high beam,
spots, fog/fanouts, reversing, break, rear fog/bright red, indicators,and of
course roof spot/navigator.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Wed, 11/23/11, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights
> To: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>
> Cc: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, November 23, 2011, 1:32 AM
> I think there is some confusion about
> various types of lights.
> It depends how you define the various terms.
> In my view (but others may differ):
>
> -Town lights (USA) are the small front lights, often
> combined with indicator lights, or incorporated in the
> headlights. Usually 5W. They are switched on together with
> the rear lights.
> -Side lights (USA) are the lights front and rear on the
> front and rear wings on the side of a car. They are switched
> on together with the lights.
> -Side lights (EU/UK) are the lights referred to as town
> lights in the USA, see above.
> -Driving lights are separate front lights that are used
> during driving at all time, day and night, like e.g. in
> Sweden. They are switched on as soon as you switch on the
> ignition. Modern cars have them now as LED lights. They are
> more intense than town or side lights and are used on their
> own (no rear lights) if the other lights are not in use.
> Sometimes they are switched of automaticly when the head
> lights are on.
> -Spot lights are long range high intensity lights
> (blinding) and should only be used in combination with high
> beam, as is laid down in law in many states/countries. Often
> referred to as driving lights in the USA.
> -Fog lights are short broad range high intensity lights
> (non blinding) and should only be used with dimmed
> headlights or town lights. Only for use in dense fog. Often
> illegal when visibility is more than 200 meters/yards.
>
> Spot and Fog lights should be wired in using relays.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 22-11-2011 23:51, F Ronald Rader schreef:
> >   Fred,
> >> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams
> so they come on while hi beam
> >> is on.
> > and I have a switch so that i can have the driving
> lights on or off w
> > the high beams, but they only work w the high beams
> on.  ron rader
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> > Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4633 - datum
> van uitgifte: 11/22/11
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 23 11:59:43 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:59:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <4ECCBDA5.60208@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1322074783.220.YahooMailClassic@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Sorry, 'break' should of course be 'brake' .....

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Wed, 11/23/11, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights
> To: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>
> Cc: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, November 23, 2011, 1:32 AM
> I think there is some confusion about
> various types of lights.
> It depends how you define the various terms.
> In my view (but others may differ):
>
> -Town lights (USA) are the small front lights, often
> combined with indicator lights, or incorporated in the
> headlights. Usually 5W. They are switched on together with
> the rear lights.
> -Side lights (USA) are the lights front and rear on the
> front and rear wings on the side of a car. They are switched
> on together with the lights.
> -Side lights (EU/UK) are the lights referred to as town
> lights in the USA, see above.
> -Driving lights are separate front lights that are used
> during driving at all time, day and night, like e.g. in
> Sweden. They are switched on as soon as you switch on the
> ignition. Modern cars have them now as LED lights. They are
> more intense than town or side lights and are used on their
> own (no rear lights) if the other lights are not in use.
> Sometimes they are switched of automaticly when the head
> lights are on.
> -Spot lights are long range high intensity lights
> (blinding) and should only be used in combination with high
> beam, as is laid down in law in many states/countries. Often
> referred to as driving lights in the USA.
> -Fog lights are short broad range high intensity lights
> (non blinding) and should only be used with dimmed
> headlights or town lights. Only for use in dense fog. Often
> illegal when visibility is more than 200 meters/yards.
>
> Spot and Fog lights should be wired in using relays.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 22-11-2011 23:51, F Ronald Rader schreef:
> >   Fred,
> >> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams
> so they come on while hi beam
> >> is on.
> > and I have a switch so that i can have the driving
> lights on or off w
> > the high beams, but they only work w the high beams
> on.  ron rader
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> > Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4633 - datum
> van uitgifte: 11/22/11
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 12:58:42 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:58:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <SNT112-W45DCD1C02365453F47902C8BC90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <944949907.186121.1322078322677.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: "... what could be labeled the most interesting Austin-Healey ever made..." 


... or, Donald's personal 100 'coupe' with 100S running gear. 


bs 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


There will be a major feature on this car and this sale in an upcoming issue 
of HEALEY MARQUE, with several never-before/seldom seen photos and some 
insider info. For example, an inside source has told us that he expects the 
car to sell for a figure beginning with a 7 or an 8, as in 700,000-899,999 UK 
Pounds. There's more. 

This is a fascinating chapter in the history of what could be labeled the most 
interesting Austin-Healey ever made. I predicted in 2008 that it would not 
be too long before a 100S sold for more than $1m, and I think that this is 
going to be that sale. 

My vote for what to do with it (not that the new owner is likely to put it to 
a vote!) is to restore it to the high point of its history; namely, what it 
looked like at the beginning of the 1955 Le Mans. 

Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA 

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 12:59:58 2011
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:59:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <944949907.186121.1322078322677.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <644214011.205259.1322078398795.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I think I'd rather have the coupe...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 2:58:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

re: "... what could be labeled the most interesting Austin-Healey ever made..." 


... or, Donald's personal 100 'coupe' with 100S running gear. 


bs 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


There will be a major feature on this car and this sale in an upcoming issue 
of HEALEY MARQUE, with several never-before/seldom seen photos and some 
insider info. For example, an inside source has told us that he expects the 
car to sell for a figure beginning with a 7 or an 8, as in 700,000-899,999 UK 
Pounds. There's more. 

This is a fascinating chapter in the history of what could be labeled the most 
interesting Austin-Healey ever made. I predicted in 2008 that it would not 
be too long before a 100S sold for more than $1m, and I think that this is 
going to be that sale. 

My vote for what to do with it (not that the new owner is likely to put it to 
a vote!) is to restore it to the high point of its history; namely, what it 
looked like at the beginning of the 1955 Le Mans. 

Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.brouillette at comcast.net

From cynicbass at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 13:15:58 2011
From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 20:15:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <644214011.205259.1322078398795.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <644214011.205259.1322078398795.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <42B35262-0851-4AA4-B53C-219803E131D7@gmail.com>

Me too...

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On Nov 23, 2011, at 19:59, m.brouillette at comcast.net wrote:

> I think I'd rather have the coupe...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 2:58:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
>
> re: "... what could be labeled the most interesting Austin-Healey ever
made..."
>
>
> ... or, Donald's personal 100 'coupe' with 100S running gear.
>
>
> bs
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> There will be a major feature on this car and this sale in an upcoming issue
> of HEALEY MARQUE, with several never-before/seldom seen photos and some
> insider info. For example, an inside source has told us that he expects the
> car to sell for a figure beginning with a 7 or an 8, as in 700,000-899,999
UK
> Pounds. There's more.
>
> This is a fascinating chapter in the history of what could be labeled the
most
> interesting Austin-Healey ever made. I predicted in 2008 that it would not
> be too long before a 100S sold for more than $1m, and I think that this is
> going to be that sale.
>
> My vote for what to do with it (not that the new owner is likely to put it
to
> a vote!) is to restore it to the high point of its history; namely, what it
> looked like at the beginning of the 1955 Le Mans.
>
> Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.brouillette at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 23 13:13:59 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 12:13:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <42B35262-0851-4AA4-B53C-219803E131D7@gmail.com>
References: <644214011.205259.1322078398795.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<42B35262-0851-4AA4-B53C-219803E131D7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1322079239.88327.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I rather have both !!!!
 
Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321 3740
Cel.
(57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota, Colombia
>________________________________
> From: Richard Korn <cynicbass at gmail.com>
>To: "m.brouillette at comcast.net" <m.brouillette at comcast.net> 
>Cc:
"healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>; Reid Trummel
<editor_reid at hotmail.com> 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 3:15 PM
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
> 
>Me too...
>
>Sent from Ricky's iPad
>
>On Nov 23, 2011, at 19:59, m.brouillette at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> I think I'd
rather have the coupe...
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bob
Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: "Reid Trummel"
<editor_reid at hotmail.com>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wednesday,
November 23, 2011 2:58:42 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
>>
>> re:
"... what could be labeled the most interesting Austin-Healey ever
>made..."
>>
>>
>> ... or, Donald's personal 100 'coupe' with 100S running gear.
>>
>>
>> bs
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------
>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>>
>> There will be a major feature on
this car and this sale in an upcoming issue
>> of HEALEY MARQUE, with several
never-before/seldom seen photos and some
>> insider info. For example, an
inside source has told us that he expects the
>> car to sell for a figure
beginning with a 7 or an 8, as in 700,000-899,999
>UK
>> Pounds. There's more.
>>
>> This is a fascinating chapter in the history of what could be labeled
the
>most
>> interesting Austin-Healey ever made. I predicted in 2008 that it
would not
>> be too long before a 100S sold for more than $1m, and I think
that this is
>> going to be that sale.
>>
>> My vote for what to do with it
(not that the new owner is likely to put it
>to
>> a vote!) is to restore it
to the high point of its history; namely, what it
>> looked like at the
beginning of the 1955 Le Mans.
>>
>> Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA
>>
_______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.brouillette at comcast.net
>>
_______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Nov 23 13:24:46 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 21:24:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <1322079239.88327.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <644214011.205259.1322078398795.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<42B35262-0851-4AA4-B53C-219803E131D7@gmail.com>
	<1322079239.88327.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037925F7B@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

I would sell both if they are brought by Father Christmas. An ordinary Healey
gives me the same fun then one of these two. Even more, as I do not have to
care that much.

Josef Eckert
Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Josi Vicente Vargas
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 23. November 2011 21:14
An: Richard Korn
Cc: Healey List
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Lot No: 433

I rather have both !!!!

Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Wed Nov 23 13:39:12 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:39:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey, but fun
Message-ID: <20cec.36121ab5.3bfeb3f0@aol.com>

I shoot a lot of video and post a lot to youtube, and now one of my videos  
is close to one million views on youtube. It's a short clip from the end of 
the  Mille Miglia tribute just held here in California. Only 25 seconds 
long and I'm  passing this along as I thought the community might enjoy this 
car related clip.  So go ahead and chuckle and know there was no one hurt in 
this "accident".
 
_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToeiAd6dPjA_ 
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToeiAd6dPjA) 
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Nov 23 15:02:31 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:02:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
Message-ID: <6a804.13235b7.3bfec777@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/23/11 11:03:46 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> My vote for what to do with it (not that the new owner is likely to put 
> it to
> a vote!) is to restore it to the high point of its history; namely, what 
> it
> looked like at the beginning of the 1955 Le Mans.
> 
I'm with Reid up to that point -- I've got a print of a painting by 
Nicholas Watts on my wall of that car exiting Tertre Rouge in an early lap of that 
race -- British Racing Green with a large white roundel and the number 26, 
plus Lucas driving lights, and the racing windscreen that it appears to still 
have. That's the high point of its entire career and the way it should be 
seen and remembered. 

However, I'm entering this pool with a "no sale" guess. If it does sell, I 
don't think this car is yet worth a million dollars. (But I'd only make that 
bet with at least 2-1 odds in my favor.)

G.

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 23 15:14:06 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 14:14:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <6a804.13235b7.3bfec777@aol.com>
References: <6a804.13235b7.3bfec777@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2561D083-5AB8-41A3-B43D-81813EA1924F@sbcglobal.net>

We definitely do not want it to look like the photo I have on the  
wall here at the shop. I have a shot of the car right after the  
accident up against the fence where the car came to rest, as well as  
one of it in the pits prior to the race and one during the race just  
past the Dunlap bridge.

It might be fun to get a collection of all the photos people have of  
this historic car all in one place.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 23, 2011, at 2:02 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 11/23/11 11:03:46 AM, healeys- 
> request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
>> My vote for what to do with it (not that the new owner is likely  
>> to put
>> it to
>> a vote!) is to restore it to the high point of its history;  
>> namely, what
>> it
>> looked like at the beginning of the 1955 Le Mans.
>>
> I'm with Reid up to that point -- I've got a print of a painting by
> Nicholas Watts on my wall of that car exiting Tertre Rouge in an  
> early lap of that
> race -- British Racing Green with a large white roundel and the  
> number 26,
> plus Lucas driving lights, and the racing windscreen that it  
> appears to still
> have. That's the high point of its entire career and the way it  
> should be
> seen and remembered.
>
> However, I'm entering this pool with a "no sale" guess. If it does  
> sell, I
> don't think this car is yet worth a million dollars. (But I'd only  
> make that
> bet with at least 2-1 odds in my favor.)
>
> G.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 23 15:15:45 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 14:15:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <6a804.13235b7.3bfec777@aol.com>
References: <6a804.13235b7.3bfec777@aol.com>
Message-ID: <402DEDEA-E200-49C0-B0AB-471ACDCE7719@sbcglobal.net>

I could put a page up on our site if anyone has some of this most  
historic car to post.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 23, 2011, at 2:02 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 11/23/11 11:03:46 AM, healeys- 
> request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
>> My vote for what to do with it (not that the new owner is likely  
>> to put
>> it to
>> a vote!) is to restore it to the high point of its history;  
>> namely, what
>> it
>> looked like at the beginning of the 1955 Le Mans.
>>
> I'm with Reid up to that point -- I've got a print of a painting by
> Nicholas Watts on my wall of that car exiting Tertre Rouge in an  
> early lap of that
> race -- British Racing Green with a large white roundel and the  
> number 26,
> plus Lucas driving lights, and the racing windscreen that it  
> appears to still
> have. That's the high point of its entire career and the way it  
> should be
> seen and remembered.
>
> However, I'm entering this pool with a "no sale" guess. If it does  
> sell, I
> don't think this car is yet worth a million dollars. (But I'd only  
> make that
> bet with at least 2-1 odds in my favor.)
>
> G.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Nov 23 15:19:30 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:19:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <2561D083-5AB8-41A3-B43D-81813EA1924F@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6a804.13235b7.3bfec777@aol.com>
	<2561D083-5AB8-41A3-B43D-81813EA1924F@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <022201ccaa2d$f8d10580$ea731080$@verizon.net>

I'll host them if there is an interest.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 5:14 PM
To: Editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] NOJ 393

We definitely do not want it to look like the photo I have on the wall here
at the shop. I have a shot of the car right after the accident up against
the fence where the car came to rest, as well as one of it in the pits prior
to the race and one during the race just past the Dunlap bridge.

It might be fun to get a collection of all the photos people have of this
historic car all in one place.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 23, 2011, at 2:02 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

From mslechta at chartermi.net  Wed Nov 23 15:24:42 2011
From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:24:42 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival 2011
In-Reply-To: <E67707C2-2D7E-4BB4-B50B-D9B746AA3AEE@bornet.net>
References: <E67707C2-2D7E-4BB4-B50B-D9B746AA3AEE@bornet.net>
Message-ID: <F82C9980F14D4D929B4C57526BC131AB@MikesLaptop>

Very well done - including the background music!!  Definately have added this
to my bucket list.
Thanks,    Mike S.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Magnus Karlsson
  To: Healey Lista
  Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 10:09 AM
  Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival 2011


  I had the priviege to vist this years Godwood Revival Meet in England. I
have
  published my photos from the meet on my website. If interested please click
on
  the following link:

  http://www.concourshealeys.com/glorious-goodwood-revival-2011/


  Magnus Karlsson
  www.concourshealeys.com
  _______________________________________________
  Healeys at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 15:46:58 2011
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:46:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Driving Lights
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V4=sFf-d8cLpqHviugBmra9vN_-HvRo=NT+aEjv+0_8Rw@mail.gmail.com>

List,

A few days ago, I asked about adding driving lights to my car this winter
and received a huge response with many great ideas.

Once again this proves the quality, camaraderie and a willingness to share
wisdom by the members of this list!

Many, many thanks to all of those who responded!

I guess my question now is what size light and power should I use and
should they be spot lights, flame throwers, fog or a combination?  What
sources are there, other than Ebay?

Everyone, thanks again!

Fred

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 16:04:20 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 23:04:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <2561D083-5AB8-41A3-B43D-81813EA1924F@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <980411232.194972.1322089460564.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Just finished the Piggott book on the '100;' it has a lot of photos of the car (including the crash scene). 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


We definitely do not want it to look like the photo I have on the 
wall here at the shop. I have a shot of the car right after the 
accident up against the fence where the car came to rest, as well as 
one of it in the pits prior to the race and one during the race just 
past the Dunlap bridge. 

It might be fun to get a collection of all the photos people have of 
this historic car all in one place. 


David Nock 
British Car Specialists 
Stockton Ca 95205 
209-948-8767 

www.britishcarspecialists.com 

From kimobriske at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 16:17:07 2011
From: kimobriske at gmail.com (Kimo Briske)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 13:17:07 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey Friend
Message-ID: <CANqsgC7afGqbq_av+jREcDq65NR2RWHwEMZfn44sZ67o6qXcNw@mail.gmail.com>

A close friend of mine and a great friend to Healey's, Roy Moore [
Victoria, B.C. Canada ] passed away this morning. Roy's restorations and
the knowledge he shared with the Healey community are a lasting legacy from
a cherished friend.  Aloha Blessings, Roy. It was an honor and privilege to
be your friend. This isn't goodbye, but rather, I'll see you later,
brother. * * Jim Briske

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Nov 23 16:19:48 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 18:19:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
Message-ID: <023501ccaa36$65602f20$30208d60$@verizon.net>

These photos are now on my site on the Photo Album page. They are not in any
particular order and not properly captioned. This will be done, as well as a
write-up, when I return from Thanksgiving which we celebrate out of town.
Probably Sunday if the 49ers and Green Bay win on Thursday and Cal on
Friday. Otherwise, it will take me another day or two to get my mind back on
Healeys.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Nov 23 16:19:54 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:19:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <1322074698.40124.YahooMailClassic@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1322074698.40124.YahooMailClassic@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BDC922819B2A4C7ABEBADCEBD29874ED@LeonardPCPC>

AND - Daytime running lights.

"A daytime running lamp (DRL, also daylight running lamp or daytime running 
light) is an automotive lighting device on the front of a roadgoing motor 
vehicle, installed in pairs, automatically switched on when the vehicle is 
moving forward, emitting white, yellow, or amber light to increase the 
conspicuity of the vehicle during daylight conditions....Sweden was the 
first country to require widespread DRLs in 1977."    Wikipedia.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>; "Oudesluys" 
<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Cc: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights


>
> everyone understands pecific lights are side, head low beam, head high 
> beam,
> spots, fog/fanouts, reversing, break, rear fog/bright red, indicators,and 
> of
> course roof spot/navigator.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 23 16:40:54 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:40:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
Message-ID: <COL121-W350E5ADC245DC076E3850A4C90@phx.gbl>

This is all very interesting in that modern cars have their "fog" (auxiliary)
lights hooked so that they go OFF with the high beams and only can be turned
on along with the low beams. When I hoked mine up many years ago it did it
that way. I replaced the dash light switch (on/off) with a three position
switch as the light switch is. Top position is off, middle position is dash
lights and bottom position is dash plus fog (or what ever). They go off and on
with the dipper foot switch as the modern cars. You all now have me interested
in changing the fogs to the high beams but wouldn't that just flare back in
fog or snow?
Rich Kahn

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 23 16:53:04 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:53:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <023501ccaa36$65602f20$30208d60$@verizon.net>
References: <023501ccaa36$65602f20$30208d60$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <45E19FAB-59D7-4956-94EC-98EACD31A558@sbcglobal.net>

Look closely at the last photo on the first page. In the back ground  
is the streamliner Healey, Geoff Healey and Donald Healey.

I will send you what i have John to post.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 23, 2011, at 3:19 PM, John Sims wrote:

> These photos are now on my site on the Photo Album page. They are  
> not in any
> particular order and not properly captioned. This will be done, as  
> well as a
> write-up, when I return from Thanksgiving which we celebrate out of  
> town.
> Probably Sunday if the 49ers and Green Bay win on Thursday and Cal on
> Friday. Otherwise, it will take me another day or two to get my  
> mind back on
> Healeys.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Nov 23 17:00:54 2011
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 18:00:54 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
Message-ID: <28725362.357117.1322092854083.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

/dRXMYr: Permission denied

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Nov 23 17:00:45 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:00:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W350E5ADC245DC076E3850A4C90@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W350E5ADC245DC076E3850A4C90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1C32F1E13649488DA7E6EEF4CBF52D3A@LeonardPCPC>

Rich:  Yes.  Flare back would occur.  I thought sure that the CA Vehicle 
Code stated that fog lights were only to be used in conjunction with low 
beam.  I don't see it in 24403.  It does say, "...foglamps...may be used 
with, but shall not be used in substitution of, headlamps...".

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 3:40 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights

>
> You all now have me interested
> in changing the fogs to the high beams but wouldn't that just flare back 
> in
> fog or snow?
>
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 23 17:08:14 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:08:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
Message-ID: <1322093294.83343.yint-ygo-j2me@web130205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

David, I could be wrong but I think that is a Cunningham team car. It looks like Briggs standing at front of car w/hands in pockets.
Best
JK

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 6:53 PM EST David Nock wrote:

>Look closely at the last photo on the first page. In the back ground  
>is the streamliner Healey, Geoff Healey and Donald Healey.
>
>I will send you what i have John to post.
>
>
>David Nock
>British Car Specialists
>Stockton Ca 95205
>209-948-8767
>
>www.britishcarspecialists.com
>.
>.
>
>On Nov 23, 2011, at 3:19 PM, John Sims wrote:
>
>> These photos are now on my site on the Photo Album page. They are  
>> not in any
>> particular order and not properly captioned. This will be done, as  
>> well as a
>> write-up, when I return from Thanksgiving which we celebrate out of  
>> town.
>> Probably Sunday if the 49ers and Green Bay win on Thursday and Cal on
>> Friday. Otherwise, it will take me another day or two to get my  
>> mind back on
>> Healeys.
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>
>> http://www.healey6.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com

From seansxton at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 17:39:45 2011
From: seansxton at gmail.com (Sean Sexton)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 18:39:45 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <1322093294.83343.yint-ygo-j2me@web130205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1322093294.83343.yint-ygo-j2me@web130205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANx0aR5Rsk6DDt5s6kgZiOyazS+Un3tF+qbb2-YYwLN30SwAUA@mail.gmail.com>

The history is interesting, I like the color.  Any background on colors,
especially the cove.

Thanks,
Sean

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Nov 23 17:41:45 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:41:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
In-Reply-To: <1C32F1E13649488DA7E6EEF4CBF52D3A@LeonardPCPC>
References: <COL121-W350E5ADC245DC076E3850A4C90@phx.gbl>
	<1C32F1E13649488DA7E6EEF4CBF52D3A@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <001c01ccaa41$d80d53d0$8827fb70$@charter.net>

I found my spots with high beams very handy when driving windy roads at
night.  When "cross eyed" they provide good lighting of shoulders and
corners.  They saved me from hitting wild life more than once on Hwy 1 to
and from Canada.  In snow (Alpine 500 Rally) I always use low beams and fog
well I just make due.

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 4:01 PM
To: AH Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights

Rich:  Yes.  Flare back would occur.  I thought sure that the CA Vehicle
Code stated that fog lights were only to be used in conjunction with low
beam.  I don't see it in 24403.  It does say, "...foglamps...may be used
with, but shall not be used in substitution of, headlamps...".

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031



----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 3:40 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights

>
> You all now have me interested
> in changing the fogs to the high beams but wouldn't that just flare 
> back in fog or snow?
>
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From dwflagg at juno.com  Wed Nov 23 17:50:20 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:50:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Birthday!!
Message-ID: <20111123.165100.1619.16019@mailpop23.dca.untd.com>

'I'm sure I speak for all on this list in wishing Rich Chrysler a very
happy birthday, with many more to come. I don't know what we would do
without you!!

Regards,

Doug
____________________________________________________________
57 Year Old Mom Looks 27
Mom Reveals $3 Wrinkle Trick Angering Doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ecd9503751c94887f1st01duc

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 17:52:22 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:52:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <1322093294.83343.yint-ygo-j2me@web130205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1322093294.83343.yint-ygo-j2me@web130205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYobCQSTMr6jGfa2NNHd7j67FuqaoC08BaSeV-1Ryhe0CA@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like LeMonstre` Cunningham to me in the background.
Thanks John for posting the photos.

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 4:08 PM, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall at yahoo.com>wrote:

> David, I could be wrong but I think that is a Cunningham team car. It
> looks like Briggs standing at front of car w/hands in pockets.
> Best
> JK
>
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 6:53 PM EST David Nock wrote:
>
> >Look closely at the last photo on the first page. In the back ground
> >is the streamliner Healey, Geoff Healey and Donald Healey.
> >
> >I will send you what i have John to post.
> >
> >
> >David Nock
> >British Car Specialists
> >Stockton Ca 95205
> >209-948-8767
> >
> >www.britishcarspecialists.com
> >.
> >.
> >
> >On Nov 23, 2011, at 3:19 PM, John Sims wrote:
> >
> >> These photos are now on my site on the Photo Album page. They are
> >> not in any
> >> particular order and not properly captioned. This will be done, as
> >> well as a
> >> write-up, when I return from Thanksgiving which we celebrate out of
> >> town.
> >> Probably Sunday if the 49ers and Green Bay win on Thursday and Cal on
> >> Friday. Otherwise, it will take me another day or two to get my
> >> mind back on
> >> Healeys.
> >>
> >> John Sims, BN6
> >> Aberdeen, NJ
> >>
> >> http://www.healey6.com
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> >> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >_______________________________________________
> >Healeys at autox.team.net
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 17:54:21 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:54:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] little LBC, and I need Ford alternator help
Message-ID: <CACPMnYqQuO1_XW2HkDGxV31PkPvTXVdQ3GN1=3WHi5+jXH31mA@mail.gmail.com>

Hey all, Hope all  yanks have a great Thanksgiving no matter were we  are
in the world.
To the rest of you, Have a happy Thursday.
My son's 1990 Ford Aerostar van ran the battery flat while parked for the
day. He left something on.
After the car was started from another car it ran until he turned on the
lights after a few minutes of run time. The van quit. He called AAA the tow
truck driver told him he had a bad alternator and we had it towed to my
house. I put it on a rapid charge and then started it after the charger
showed a full charge. It runs fine and the volatge gauge shows a steady 11+
volts. So how to do I test the alternator? It seems to be putting out the
correct charge.
Thanks all.
BTW. Top Gear had the show were they drive a British sports car form back
in the day for each of the hosts. A Jensen Healey, a TVR and a front
engined Lotus. They then drove to the defunct factory for each of the
marques. Fun and sad at the same time.
I've been working 7 days a week for a while as my partner has been injured.
So I hope to get back to my beauty before long.

-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 18:09:21 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:09:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Birthday!!
In-Reply-To: <20111123.165100.1619.16019@mailpop23.dca.untd.com>
References: <20111123.165100.1619.16019@mailpop23.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYrBHkrCaeC_YJ+kWLpkabFWfthXOeCfPXTgvRQCAV69OQ@mail.gmail.com>

I would not be as far along in my resto without him. Hope you had a great
day!

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 4:50 PM, <dwflagg at juno.com> wrote:

> 'I'm sure I speak for all on this list in wishing Rich Chrysler a very
> happy birthday, with many more to come. I don't know what we would do
> without you!!
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug
> ____________________________________________________________
> 57 Year Old Mom Looks 27
> Mom Reveals $3 Wrinkle Trick Angering Doctors...
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ecd9503751c94887f1st01duc
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Wed Nov 23 18:28:47 2011
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 20:28:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <1322093294.83343.yint-ygo-j2me@web130205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1322093294.83343.yint-ygo-j2me@web130205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3DAD247E-A07E-46C0-BB0E-98A6B414DA23@cgocable.ca>

I wonder if someone from UK Healey clubs will be there to film the
auction , i don't think it will be webcast on the net .

Gilbert
Le 11-11-23 ` 19:08, Jackson Krall a icrit :

> David, I could be wrong but I think that is a Cunningham team car.
> It looks like Briggs standing at front of car w/hands in pockets.
> Best
> JK
>
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 6:53 PM EST David Nock wrote:
>
>> Look closely at the last photo on the first page. In the back ground
>> is the streamliner Healey, Geoff Healey and Donald Healey.
>>
>> I will send you what i have John to post.
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> .
>> .
>>
>> On Nov 23, 2011, at 3:19 PM, John Sims wrote:
>>
>>> These photos are now on my site on the Photo Album page. They are
>>> not in any
>>> particular order and not properly captioned. This will be done, as
>>> well as a
>>> write-up, when I return from Thanksgiving which we celebrate out of
>>> town.
>>> Probably Sunday if the 49ers and Green Bay win on Thursday and Cal
>>> on
>>> Friday. Otherwise, it will take me another day or two to get my
>>> mind back on
>>> Healeys.
>>>
>>> John Sims, BN6
>>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>>
>>> http://www.healey6.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 18:35:37 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:35:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393
In-Reply-To: <CANx0aR5Rsk6DDt5s6kgZiOyazS+Un3tF+qbb2-YYwLN30SwAUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1322093294.83343.yint-ygo-j2me@web130205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<CANx0aR5Rsk6DDt5s6kgZiOyazS+Un3tF+qbb2-YYwLN30SwAUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ECD9F69.8010408@comcast.net>

The Piggott book has the following comment alongside the same photo used by the auction house:

"The colour scheme on NOJ 393 is interesting, to say the least.  Still, there's no accounting for what was done 40 years 
ago - 'the past is another country' as they say."


The car was rebuilt after the LeMans crash, presumably the paint was applied then.

Also from the book:

"Jack Scott heard rumours of its existence and he and two others finally purchased it, each contributing 50# (pounds) to 
the cost so the story goes.  Jack bought the two friends out to become sole owner, which he still is more than 35 years 
later."

Gotta be the ultimate barn find, for sure.

Bob



On 11/23/2011 4:39 PM, Sean Sexton wrote:
> The history is interesting, I like the color.  Any background on colors,
> especially the cove.
>
> Thanks,
> Sean
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 18:41:16 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:41:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] little LBC, and I need Ford alternator help
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYqQuO1_XW2HkDGxV31PkPvTXVdQ3GN1=3WHi5+jXH31mA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYqQuO1_XW2HkDGxV31PkPvTXVdQ3GN1=3WHi5+jXH31mA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ECDA0BC.70006@comcast.net>

It's already failed one test--assuming your voltage gauge is correct--the alternator should be putting out about 13.7V 
to charge the battery.

At this point, you could pull the alternator and take it to an Autozone, etc. for testing.

Bob


On 11/23/2011 4:54 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> Hey all, Hope all  yanks have a great Thanksgiving no matter were we  are
> in the world.
> To the rest of you, Have a happy Thursday.
> My son's 1990 Ford Aerostar van ran the battery flat while parked for the
> day. He left something on.
> After the car was started from another car it ran until he turned on the
> lights after a few minutes of run time. The van quit. He called AAA the tow
> truck driver told him he had a bad alternator and we had it towed to my
> house. I put it on a rapid charge and then started it after the charger
> showed a full charge. It runs fine and the volatge gauge shows a steady 11+
> volts. So how to do I test the alternator? It seems to be putting out the
> correct charge.
> Thanks all.
> BTW. Top Gear had the show were they drive a British sports car form back
> in the day for each of the hosts. A Jensen Healey, a TVR and a front
> engined Lotus. They then drove to the defunct factory for each of the
> marques. Fun and sad at the same time.
> I've been working 7 days a week for a while as my partner has been injured.
> So I hope to get back to my beauty before long.
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Nov 23 18:57:37 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 20:57:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Birthday!!
In-Reply-To: <20111123.165100.1619.16019@mailpop23.dca.untd.com>
References: <20111123.165100.1619.16019@mailpop23.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <023f01ccaa4c$7185c3d0$54914b70$@verizon.net>

Happy Birthday, Rich. Thanks for all of the help in giving me items for my
site but more importantly in giving me insight into what is needed to
correct little problems on my BN6 that creep up from time to time. I am sure
that the List appreciates your willingness to always jump in with priceless
comments.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dwflagg at juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 7:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Birthday!!

'I'm sure I speak for all on this list in wishing Rich Chrysler a very happy
birthday, with many more to come. I don't know what we would do without
you!!

Regards,

Doug
____________________________________________________________
57 Year Old Mom Looks 27
Mom Reveals $3 Wrinkle Trick Angering Doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ecd9503751c94887f1st01duc
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 23 19:15:56 2011
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 02:15:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
In-Reply-To: <7841D6BE-770D-4B19-8A93-DA2E86F19BF4@cgocable.ca>
References: <7841D6BE-770D-4B19-8A93-DA2E86F19BF4@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W46E3CBE428A3EDD2342603D1CE0@phx.gbl>

You really have to give it to the Brits, they have a way with words. I read
the description of NOJ393 twice on Bonham's site and while there is no doubt
that this car is historically significant, yet it has never won a race either,
so comparing it to some of the cars they compare it with is stretching it just
a little. I believe that it will sell for quite a sum of money and I am as
fond of Austin-Healey as much as anyone but I wonder what is all the fuss
about. It is not really a "barn find", a lot of people knew of the existence
of this car, as a matter of fact it was discussed in an issue of the Chatter
magazine in the 1990's. It simply was not seen in public and for good reason,
it is not in running order.
It is an important car as one of the first "Special Test Car" and its rebuilt
following the LeMans 1955 crash was done hastily in order to sell it. If you
look closely at the scruteering photos prior to Le Mans in 1955, you can see
the "quick filler cap" and after the rebuilt, it's not there. Not much is
known or not written about its history after it was sold following the
rebuilt, likely because it became a Club Racer, and it then acquired this odd
paintwork.
If the owner actually turned down the money someone mentioned he was offered,
I tend to think he should have taken it, just my opinion. Given the state of
the economy in North America and Europe right now, not so sure it will sell
for 800,000 pounds. Then again, some guys are flush with cash so who really
knows.

Jean


> From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 07:06:45 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Lot No: 433
>
> Here a good description of the 100S that will be on sale on the
> december 1st at Bonhams :
>
> https://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/433/
>
> It would be great if someone from our Team could buy it .....
>
> Good luck on bidding
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Gilbert
>
> BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho
tmail.com

From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Nov 23 19:18:37 2011
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 20:18:37 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights
Message-ID: <20378526.366406.1322101117531.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>


From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 19:35:35 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 18:35:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] little LBC, and I need Ford alternator help
In-Reply-To: <4ECDA0BC.70006@comcast.net>
References: <CACPMnYqQuO1_XW2HkDGxV31PkPvTXVdQ3GN1=3WHi5+jXH31mA@mail.gmail.com>
	<4ECDA0BC.70006@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A25A4AB4-69F4-4D10-B6DC-06E32717AF8E@gmail.com>

It more than failed one test it has failed them all.
A fully charged 12v battery produces 12.6V+(12.72V if you want to get picky).
There is an internal resistance in the battery that the alternator has to
overcome to charge the battery. That requires about .2V per cell or 1.2V for
the battery.
So to fully charge a 12V battery you need the alternator to produce 12.72V +
1.2V = 13.92V
If the system voltage is 11V with the car running I would suspect
A) a bad battery.  A fully charged battery should not fall into the 11V range
right after start when freshly charged. Have it tested.
B) Assuming the battery is good either the alternator or the wiring is toast.
But test the battery first

Rick


Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 17:41, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> It's already failed one test--assuming your voltage gauge is correct--the
alternator should be putting out about 13.7V to charge the battery.
>
> At this point, you could pull the alternator and take it to an Autozone,
etc. for testing.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 11/23/2011 4:54 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>> Hey all, Hope all  yanks have a great Thanksgiving no matter were we  are
>> in the world.
>> To the rest of you, Have a happy Thursday.
>> My son's 1990 Ford Aerostar van ran the battery flat while parked for the
>> day. He left something on.
>> After the car was started from another car it ran until he turned on the
>> lights after a few minutes of run time. The van quit. He called AAA the
tow
>> truck driver told him he had a bad alternator and we had it towed to my
>> house. I put it on a rapid charge and then started it after the charger
>> showed a full charge. It runs fine and the volatge gauge shows a steady
11+
>> volts. So how to do I test the alternator? It seems to be putting out the
>> correct charge.
>> Thanks all.
>> BTW. Top Gear had the show were they drive a British sports car form back
>> in the day for each of the hosts. A Jensen Healey, a TVR and a front
>> engined Lotus. They then drove to the defunct factory for each of the
>> marques. Fun and sad at the same time.
>> I've been working 7 days a week for a while as my partner has been
injured.
>> So I hope to get back to my beauty before long.
>>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Nov 23 20:29:12 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 22:29:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] NOJ 393 Photos Posted on Internet
In-Reply-To: <CAJYRN6Fs=5k2WPis6U7rLOELarUV2zKFuZLT+OuFMoiZOMXb7w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJYRN6Fs=5k2WPis6U7rLOELarUV2zKFuZLT+OuFMoiZOMXb7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <024301ccaa59$3c70f9f0$b552edd0$@verizon.net>

In view of the below, I have removed the subject photos from my site.



John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ



http://www.healey6.com



From: reid.trummel at gmail.com [mailto:reid.trummel at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Reid
Trummel
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 9:20 PM
To: info at healeymuseum.nl
Cc: John Sims
Subject: NOJ 393 Photos Posted on Internet



Hello again Hans and Peter,

Thanks again for exclusive permission to publish the photos you sent.  That is
much appreciated and I will, of course, properly credit the Healey Museum.

However, today I have seen that these same photos have been posted to a
website <http://www.healey6.com> and I wanted to make sure that you know that
I was NOT the source for those photos.  I do not know how or where the website
owner, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>, obtained the photos, but an announcement
has been made via email to hundreds of Healey owners that the photos are there
and available for viewing (see the message immediately below).  I did not want
you to think that I had violated our agreement that I would not allow them to
be posted on the Internet.  I well understand how important it is to keep them
off the Internet as they are so easily copied and distributed when provided in
electronic form.

I will, of course, continue to respect our agreement and the copyright of the
photos.  Perhaps the Bonhams website is the source, and they may also be
interested in copyright violation.

Thank you again and best regards,
--
Reid Trummel
Editor, HEALEY MARQUE  bbbb
Official Publication of the Austin-Healey Club of America

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 20:41:45 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 04:41:45 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] AHX11 at Bonhams too...
Message-ID: <CAACjjXdXi403PWmHnq_aqzCFUyDPLoZgBy3EVVfra3ykigTBtw@mail.gmail.com>

There is another surprize at Bonhams in December:
http://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/452/#

Anyone knows how to open the boot lid??

Tadek

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 23 20:42:45 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:42:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Birthday!!
In-Reply-To: <023f01ccaa4c$7185c3d0$54914b70$@verizon.net>
References: <20111123.165100.1619.16019@mailpop23.dca.untd.com>
	<023f01ccaa4c$7185c3d0$54914b70$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4ECDBD35.2080907@comcast.net>

Happy Birthday, Rich (from another beneficiary of your knowledge).

Bob


On 11/23/2011 5:57 PM, John Sims wrote:
> Happy Birthday, Rich. Thanks for all of the help in giving me items for my
> site but more importantly in giving me insight into what is needed to
> correct little problems on my BN6 that creep up from time to time. I am sure
> that the List appreciates your willingness to always jump in with priceless
> comments.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> 'I'm sure I speak for all on this list in wishing Rich Chrysler a very happy
> birthday, with many more to come. I don't know what we would do without
> you!!
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug
> ____________________________________________________________
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 20:52:39 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:52:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] AHX11 at Bonhams too...
In-Reply-To: <CAACjjXdXi403PWmHnq_aqzCFUyDPLoZgBy3EVVfra3ykigTBtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAACjjXdXi403PWmHnq_aqzCFUyDPLoZgBy3EVVfra3ykigTBtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+nSMw+gHCNOw-MSnjB2ZnsUujs=NnwHoDHWDsDKh708w@mail.gmail.com>

Tadek -

Donald Healey and Gerry Coker had experimented with cable latches on the
boot to preserve the lines of the vehicle.  I don't know why they didn't do
it, the E-types later had the cable latch.  Probably because if the cable
broke you couldn't open the boot without damaging the lid.

Actually, if you look at the picture of the inside of the boot lid, you can
see the cable.  The angle it bends to with the boot open would not be ideal
for cable maintenance.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 11:41 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <
tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:

> There is another surprize at Bonhams in December:
> http://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/452/#
>
> Anyone knows how to open the boot lid??
>
> Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 23 22:14:08 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 21:14:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights - spots and fogs.
In-Reply-To: <20111123083226.AQF5K.240817.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Message-ID: <1322111648.14027.YahooMailClassic@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tom, Not so....maybe American divers of old British cars called them all
driving lights, but British drivers of British cars called them 'spot lights'
[pencil beam] or fog lights [fan beam]. I rallied as a kid at college in
England.

Quite simply the Brits say that all lights are for 'driving'.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Wed, 11/23/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights
> To: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>, "Oudesluys"
<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Cc: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, November 23, 2011, 5:32 AM
> I think owners of old Brit cars used
> the term "driving lights" to indicate the extra lights
> mounted up front long before the "modern" car "driving
> light" term came about.
>
> So---to me, with reference to old Brit cars, the separate
> large lights on them were "driving lights".
>
> tom
>  
> ---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> wrote:
>
> =============
> I think there is some confusion about various types of
> lights.
> It depends how you define the various terms.
> In my view (but others may differ):
>
> -Town lights (USA) are the small front lights, often
> combined with
> indicator lights, or incorporated in the headlights.
> Usually 5W. They
> are switched on together with the rear lights.
> -Side lights (USA) are the lights front and rear on the
> front and rear
> wings on the side of a car. They are switched on together
> with the lights.
> -Side lights (EU/UK) are the lights referred to as town
> lights in the
> USA, see above.
> -Driving lights are separate front lights that are used
> during driving
> at all time, day and night, like e.g. in Sweden. They are
> switched on as
> soon as you switch on the ignition. Modern cars have them
> now as LED
> lights. They are more intense than town or side lights and
> are used on
> their own (no rear lights) if the other lights are not in
> use. Sometimes
> they are switched of automaticly when the head lights are
> on.
> -Spot lights are long range high intensity lights
> (blinding) and should
> only be used in combination with high beam, as is laid down
> in law in
> many states/countries. Often referred to as driving lights
> in the USA.
> -Fog lights are short broad range high intensity lights
> (non blinding)
> and should only be used with dimmed headlights or town
> lights. Only for
> use in dense fog. Often illegal when visibility is more
> than 200
> meters/yards.
>
> Spot and Fog lights should be wired in using relays.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 22-11-2011 23:51, F Ronald Rader schreef:
> >   Fred,
> >> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high beams
> so they come on while hi beam
> >> is on.
> > and I have a switch so that i can have the driving
> lights on or off w
> > the high beams, but they only work w the high beams
> on.  ron rader
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> > Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4633 - datum
> van uitgifte: 11/22/11
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 22:53:51 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 21:53:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 service parts book pages
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_GrXaDLT1JGfywah3WFCP9rby3GRa1C8zCav9uE+oFHw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,
I'm looking for copies of the carbs and choke setup pages. I have the BT7
book for my car, but I am installing bj8 carbs and choke assembly. So
either a file emailed to me or snail mailed. Would pay for postage, but
prefer scanned files.thanks.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 24 00:20:53 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 08:20:53 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Driving Lights
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4=sFf-d8cLpqHviugBmra9vN_-HvRo=NT+aEjv+0_8Rw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4=sFf-d8cLpqHviugBmra9vN_-HvRo=NT+aEjv+0_8Rw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ECDF055.6060800@chello.nl>

In this case size does not matter. Presuming you will use halogen lights 
with H1 or H7 bulbs, they are standard 55W but can also be had in higher 
power versions up to 180W.  If you use a good design reflector/lens 55W 
is plenty enough. Even your headlamps can be good enough if you replace 
the Lucas head lamps or the sealed beams with Hella halogen headlamps 
fitted with standard H4 bulbs 60/55W or higher, say up to 120/55W, 
should give you enough light without the need of spot lights. However 
all these should be wired through relays with thicker wires and used in 
combination with a higher output dynamo/alternator.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 23-11-2011 23:46, Fred Wescoe schreef:
> List,
>
> A few days ago, I asked about adding driving lights to my car this winter
> and received a huge response with many great ideas.
>
> Once again this proves the quality, camaraderie and a willingness to share
> wisdom by the members of this list!
>
> Many, many thanks to all of those who responded!
>
> I guess my question now is what size light and power should I use and
> should they be spot lights, flame throwers, fog or a combination?  What
> sources are there, other than Ebay?
>
> Everyone, thanks again!
>
> Fred
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4634 - datum van uitgifte: 11/23/11

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 24 00:32:58 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 08:32:58 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] little LBC, and I need Ford alternator help
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYqQuO1_XW2HkDGxV31PkPvTXVdQ3GN1=3WHi5+jXH31mA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYqQuO1_XW2HkDGxV31PkPvTXVdQ3GN1=3WHi5+jXH31mA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ECDF32A.8020601@chello.nl>

11V it far to low for a battery to charge. It should read between 13.8V 
and 14,4V with 14,7 as a maximum.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 24-11-2011 1:54, I Erbs schreef:
> Hey all, Hope all  yanks have a great Thanksgiving no matter were we  are
> in the world.
> To the rest of you, Have a happy Thursday.
> My son's 1990 Ford Aerostar van ran the battery flat while parked for the
> day. He left something on.
> After the car was started from another car it ran until he turned on the
> lights after a few minutes of run time. The van quit. He called AAA the tow
> truck driver told him he had a bad alternator and we had it towed to my
> house. I put it on a rapid charge and then started it after the charger
> showed a full charge. It runs fine and the volatge gauge shows a steady 11+
> volts. So how to do I test the alternator? It seems to be putting out the
> correct charge.
> Thanks all.
> BTW. Top Gear had the show were they drive a British sports car form back
> in the day for each of the hosts. A Jensen Healey, a TVR and a front
> engined Lotus. They then drove to the defunct factory for each of the
> marques. Fun and sad at the same time.
> I've been working 7 days a week for a while as my partner has been injured.
> So I hope to get back to my beauty before long.

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Nov 24 00:41:00 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 08:41:00 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] AHX11 at Bonhams too...
In-Reply-To: <CAACjjXdXi403PWmHnq_aqzCFUyDPLoZgBy3EVVfra3ykigTBtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAACjjXdXi403PWmHnq_aqzCFUyDPLoZgBy3EVVfra3ykigTBtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037926075@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Hi Tadek,
I know how to open it. I judged that car at Int. Healey Weekend at Warwick in
2009.
Have a look to the results of that Concours on the Austin-Healey Club UK site
(Trophies/Concours).

Josef Eckert
Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 24. November 2011 04:42
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] AHX11 at Bonhams too...

There is another surprize at Bonhams in December:
http://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/452/#

Anyone knows how to open the boot lid??

Tadek

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 24 06:37:10 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 05:37:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] 2GD2BTRU? $20k 100 Racer
Message-ID: <1322141830.42150.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Seems like a good price on this 100 vintage racer:
 http://bringatrailer.com/2011/11/23/1954-austin-healey-100-4-race-car/ Anyone
know the car?

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Nov 24 06:42:25 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 8:42:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights - spots and fogs.
In-Reply-To: <1322111648.14027.YahooMailClassic@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20111124084225.Y751B.235337.root@pamxwww02-z01>

I'm sure you are correct, but us "Mericans" don't always use the British
lingo:)

tom


---- Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:

=============
Tom, Not so....maybe American divers of old British cars called them all
driving lights, but British drivers of British cars called them 'spot lights'
[pencil beam] or fog lights [fan beam]. I rallied as a kid at college in
England.

Quite simply the Brits say that all lights are for 'driving'.

Robert N. BlairB  Yellow 65BJ8B  RNBmail at yahoo.com
B 



--- On Wed, 11/23/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights
> To: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>, "Oudesluys"
<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Cc: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, November 23, 2011, 5:32 AM
> I think owners of old Brit cars used
> the term "driving lights" to indicate the extra lights
> mounted up front long before the "modern" car "driving
> light" term came about.
>
> So---to me, with reference to old Brit cars, the separate
> large lights on them were "driving lights".
>
> tom
> B 
> ---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> wrote:
>
> =============
> I think there is some confusion about various types of
> lights.
> It depends how you define the various terms.
> In my view (but others may differ):
>
> -Town lights (USA) are the small front lights, often
> combined with
> indicator lights, or incorporated in the headlights.
> Usually 5W. They
> are switched on together with the rear lights.
> -Side lights (USA) are the lights front and rear on the
> front and rear
> wings on the side of a car. They are switched on together
> with the lights.
> -Side lights (EU/UK) are the lights referred to as town
> lights in the
> USA, see above.
> -Driving lights are separate front lights that are used
> during driving
> at all time, day and night, like e.g. in Sweden. They are
> switched on as
> soon as you switch on the ignition. Modern cars have them
> now as LED
> lights. They are more intense than town or side lights and
> are used on
> their own (no rear lights) if the other lights are not in
> use. Sometimes
> they are switched of automaticly when the head lights are
> on.
> -Spot lights are long range high intensity lights
> (blinding) and should
> only be used in combination with high beam, as is laid down
> in law in
> many states/countries. Often referred to as driving lights
> in the USA.
> -Fog lights are short broad range high intensity lights
> (non blinding)
> and should only be used with dimmed headlights or town
> lights. Only for
> use in dense fog. Often illegal when visibility is more
> than 200
> meters/yards.
>
> Spot and Fog lights should be wired in using relays.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 22-11-2011 23:51, F Ronald Rader schreef:
> >B B B Fred,
> >> Do use a relay.B  I tie mine to the high beams
> so they come on while hi beam
> >> is on.
> > and I have a switch so that i can have the driving
> lights on or off w
> > the high beams, but they only work w the high beams
> on.B  ron rader
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> > Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4633 - datum
> van uitgifte: 11/22/11
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Nov 24 07:13:38 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 06:13:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Assembling BN2
Message-ID: <4ECE5112.7070103@comcast.net>

Listers,

We're close to finishing the paint on our BN2/100M resto.  Hopefully, we can get her (mostly) reassembled by springtime 
(hard to work in an unheated shop, though).

I would be most interested--and grateful--for any and all tips, gotchas, timesavers, etc. that any Listers could offer 
(assembly order, tips to get the fitment straight--we did a lot before painting--ideas for preserving the paint, and so 
on).   Also, since the interior will be next any and all suggestions welcome (I'm leaning towards Heritage/McGregor, but 
would appreciate any time/money-saving advice).

Cheers,
Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 24 07:47:49 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 09:47:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Assembling BN2
In-Reply-To: <4ECE5112.7070103@comcast.net>
References: <4ECE5112.7070103@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7F4A7E80-9398-499E-B2F5-36CBE9C75CAE@yahoo.com>

You can check my flicker


http://www.flickr.com/photos/10185785 at N02/


Sent from my iPad


On Nov 24, 2011, at 9:13 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Listers,

We're close to finishing the paint on our BN2/100M resto.  Hopefully, we can
get her (mostly) reassembled by springtime (hard to work in an unheated shop,
though).

I would be most interested--and grateful--for any and all tips, gotchas,
timesavers, etc. that any Listers could offer (assembly order, tips to get the
fitment straight--we did a lot before painting--ideas for preserving the
paint, and so on).   Also, since the interior will be next any and all
suggestions welcome (I'm leaning towards Heritage/McGregor, but would
appreciate any time/money-saving advice).

Cheers,
Bob

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Nov 24 07:57:22 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 06:57:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] AHX11 at Bonhams too...
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+nSMw+gHCNOw-MSnjB2ZnsUujs=NnwHoDHWDsDKh708w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAACjjXdXi403PWmHnq_aqzCFUyDPLoZgBy3EVVfra3ykigTBtw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTk+nSMw+gHCNOw-MSnjB2ZnsUujs=NnwHoDHWDsDKh708w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeR90Xa7T3vQojx15k-J_OGW9c-GjQo9-FBtA3SBhEj3Fg@mail.gmail.com>

Alan,

Most likely because you could lock the doors on the XKE, not so with the
100s.  I believe that there were some locking pull cables madw but not
certain they were available in 1952, plus cost may have been an issue.

Cheers,

Curt

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 7:52 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Tadek -
>
> Donald Healey and Gerry Coker had experimented with cable latches on the
> boot to preserve the lines of the vehicle.  I don't know why they didn't do
> it, the E-types later had the cable latch.  Probably because if the cable
> broke you couldn't open the boot without damaging the lid.
>
> Actually, if you look at the picture of the inside of the boot lid, you can
> see the cable.  The angle it bends to with the boot open would not be ideal
> for cable maintenance.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 11:41 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <
> tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > There is another surprize at Bonhams in December:
> > http://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/452/#
> >
> > Anyone knows how to open the boot lid??
> >
> > Tadek
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Nov 24 11:33:28 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:33:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights - spots and fogs.
In-Reply-To: <20111124084225.Y751B.235337.root@pamxwww02-z01>
References: <20111124084225.Y751B.235337.root@pamxwww02-z01>
Message-ID: <8D4610AB-FE90-4DBB-B657-4AB0CF4DDCE6@cox.net>

My Healey has "Flamethrowers"

Now both are long range SLR700(link has one of each):

http://ewilkins.com/wilko/lamps.htm

On Nov 24, 2011, at 5:42 AM, Tom Felts wrote:

> I'm sure you are correct, but us "Mericans" don't always use the British
> lingo:)
> 
> tom

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 24 11:59:55 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 19:59:55 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights - spots and fogs.
In-Reply-To: <8D4610AB-FE90-4DBB-B657-4AB0CF4DDCE6@cox.net>
References: <20111124084225.Y751B.235337.root@pamxwww02-z01>
	<8D4610AB-FE90-4DBB-B657-4AB0CF4DDCE6@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4ECE942B.7090104@chello.nl>

These are quite good, but prone to corrosion. Good reflector design and 
lens. These have tungsten bulbs of about 40W I believe, but I could be 
wrong.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 24-11-2011 19:33, Eric (Rick) Wilkins schreef:
> My Healey has "Flamethrowers"
>
> Now both are long range SLR700(link has one of each):
>
> http://ewilkins.com/wilko/lamps.htm
>
> On Nov 24, 2011, at 5:42 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
>
>> I'm sure you are correct, but us "Mericans" don't always use the British
>> lingo:)
>>
>> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4636 - datum van uitgifte: 11/24/11

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Nov 24 12:04:04 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:04:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights - spots and fogs.
In-Reply-To: <4ECE942B.7090104@chello.nl>
References: <20111124084225.Y751B.235337.root@pamxwww02-z01>
	<8D4610AB-FE90-4DBB-B657-4AB0CF4DDCE6@cox.net>
	<4ECE942B.7090104@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1E439BBA-B69C-4220-A4D1-B4144D40D47C@cox.net>

I put in some modern (55 watt, IIRC) Halogen lamps in the old Lucas bodies.

On Nov 24, 2011, at 10:59 AM, Oudesluys wrote:

> These are quite good, but prone to corrosion. Good reflector design and
lens. These have tungsten bulbs of about 40W I believe, but I could be wrong.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Op 24-11-2011 19:33, Eric (Rick) Wilkins schreef:
>> My Healey has "Flamethrowers"
>>
>> Now both are long range SLR700(link has one of each):
>>
>> http://ewilkins.com/wilko/lamps.htm
>>
>> On Nov 24, 2011, at 5:42 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
>>
>>> I'm sure you are correct, but us "Mericans" don't always use the British
>>> lingo:)
>>>
>>> tom
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4636 - datum van uitgifte:
11/24/11

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Nov 24 16:44:10 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 07:44:10 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] AHX11 at Bonhams too...
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeR90Xa7T3vQojx15k-J_OGW9c-GjQo9-FBtA3SBhEj3Fg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAACjjXdXi403PWmHnq_aqzCFUyDPLoZgBy3EVVfra3ykigTBtw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTk+nSMw+gHCNOw-MSnjB2ZnsUujs=NnwHoDHWDsDKh708w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAJKrNeR90Xa7T3vQojx15k-J_OGW9c-GjQo9-FBtA3SBhEj3Fg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLd3fhHkzHzyWtV5MuGfaeU=Dh4W94b0LPZ-06+2w+Abw@mail.gmail.com>

Ah yes, makes sense.

Probably also the latches at the time were for bonnets which had
spring hinges or latches, which may not have worked for the delicate
design of the boot lid.  I imagine opening the boot on this car
requires two people, one to pull the cable and the other to lift the
boot lid.

On 11/24/11, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
> Alan,
>
> Most likely because you could lock the doors on the XKE, not so with the
> 100s.  I believe that there were some locking pull cables madw but not
> certain they were available in 1952, plus cost may have been an issue.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 7:52 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Tadek -
>>
>> Donald Healey and Gerry Coker had experimented with cable latches on the
>> boot to preserve the lines of the vehicle.  I don't know why they didn't
>> do
>> it, the E-types later had the cable latch.  Probably because if the cable
>> broke you couldn't open the boot without damaging the lid.
>>
>> Actually, if you look at the picture of the inside of the boot lid, you
>> can
>> see the cable.  The angle it bends to with the boot open would not be
>> ideal
>> for cable maintenance.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 11:41 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <
>> tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > There is another surprize at Bonhams in December:
>> > http://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/452/#
>> >
>> > Anyone knows how to open the boot lid??
>> >
>> > Tadek
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From michael.bowie at fivepointsix.com  Thu Nov 24 17:11:24 2011
From: michael.bowie at fivepointsix.com (Michael Bowie)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 18:11:24 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 803
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18.1322161217.23847.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.18.1322161217.23847.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001ccab06$c5ab19a0$51014ce0$@bowie@fivepointsix.com>

Beautiful turkey...butt ugly trash can.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeys-request at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 1:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 803

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
	healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Driving lights - spots and fogs. (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:33:28 -0800
From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" <e-wilkins at cox.net>
Cc: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights - spots and fogs.
Message-ID: <8D4610AB-FE90-4DBB-B657-4AB0CF4DDCE6 at cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

My Healey has "Flamethrowers"

Now both are long range SLR700(link has one of each):

http://ewilkins.com/wilko/lamps.htm

On Nov 24, 2011, at 5:42 AM, Tom Felts wrote:

> I'm sure you are correct, but us "Mericans" don't always use the British
> lingo:)
> 
> tom


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Healeys mailing list
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


End of Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 803
***************************************

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Nov 24 20:56:41 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 22:56:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] reassembly
Message-ID: <c971.4d794013.3c006bf9@aol.com>

Bob,
All the suggestions you might need for reassembly have been contained in 
Roger Moment's series of articles in Austin-Healey Magazine, which are also 
available to AHCUSA members in pdf form on the healey.org website.

For my money, Heritage is the very best for interior upholstery, seats, 
door panels, etc.

Gary

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 24 21:27:32 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 20:27:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Driving lights - spots and fogs.
In-Reply-To: <20111124084225.Y751B.235337.root@pamxwww02-z01>
Message-ID: <1322195252.75397.YahooMailClassic@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yep, I know it ..... and visa versa.... makes it interesting.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Thu, 11/24/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights - spots and fogs.
> To: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>, "F Ronald Rader"
<f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>, "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Cc: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, November 24, 2011, 5:42 AM
> I'm sure you are correct, but us
> "Mericans" don't always use the British lingo:)
>
> tom
>
>
> ---- Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> =============
> Tom, Not so....maybe American divers of old British cars
> called them all driving lights, but British drivers of
> British cars called them 'spot lights' [pencil beam] or fog
> lights [fan beam]. I rallied as a kid at college in England.
>
>
> Quite simply the Brits say that all lights are for
> 'driving'. 
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
>
>  
>
>
>
> --- On Wed, 11/23/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> wrote:
>
> > From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving lights
> > To: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>,
> "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> > Cc: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Date: Wednesday, November 23, 2011, 5:32 AM
> > I think owners of old Brit cars used
> > the term "driving lights" to indicate the extra
> lights
> > mounted up front long before the "modern" car
> "driving
> > light" term came about.
> >
> > So---to me, with reference to old Brit cars, the
> separate
> > large lights on them were "driving lights".
> >
> > tom
> >  
> > ---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> > wrote:
> >
> > =============
> > I think there is some confusion about various types
> of
> > lights.
> > It depends how you define the various terms.
> > In my view (but others may differ):
> >
> > -Town lights (USA) are the small front lights, often
> > combined with
> > indicator lights, or incorporated in the headlights.
> > Usually 5W. They
> > are switched on together with the rear lights.
> > -Side lights (USA) are the lights front and rear on
> the
> > front and rear
> > wings on the side of a car. They are switched on
> together
> > with the lights.
> > -Side lights (EU/UK) are the lights referred to as
> town
> > lights in the
> > USA, see above.
> > -Driving lights are separate front lights that are
> used
> > during driving
> > at all time, day and night, like e.g. in Sweden. They
> are
> > switched on as
> > soon as you switch on the ignition. Modern cars have
> them
> > now as LED
> > lights. They are more intense than town or side lights
> and
> > are used on
> > their own (no rear lights) if the other lights are not
> in
> > use. Sometimes
> > they are switched of automaticly when the head lights
> are
> > on.
> > -Spot lights are long range high intensity lights
> > (blinding) and should
> > only be used in combination with high beam, as is laid
> down
> > in law in
> > many states/countries. Often referred to as driving
> lights
> > in the USA.
> > -Fog lights are short broad range high intensity
> lights
> > (non blinding)
> > and should only be used with dimmed headlights or
> town
> > lights. Only for
> > use in dense fog. Often illegal when visibility is
> more
> > than 200
> > meters/yards.
> >
> > Spot and Fog lights should be wired in using relays.
> >
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > NL
> >
> >
> > Op 22-11-2011 23:51, F Ronald Rader schreef:
> > >   Fred,
> > >> Do use a relay.  I tie mine to the high
> beams
> > so they come on while hi beam
> > >> is on.
> > > and I have a switch so that i can have the
> driving
> > lights on or off w
> > > the high beams, but they only work w the high
> beams
> > on.  ron rader
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> > >
> > >
> > > -----
> > > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> > > Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4633 -
> datum
> > van uitgifte: 11/22/11
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From akronzips at aol.com  Thu Nov 24 23:08:50 2011
From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 01:08:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] reassembly//question
In-Reply-To: <c971.4d794013.3c006bf9@aol.com>
References: <c971.4d794013.3c006bf9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE794FD5CEBC83-1E54-56C82@webmail-m170.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Gary:
Howard in Ohio with a 1961 BT7 about to be reassembled . My question is about
door fitment. Currently the car is in primer and about to be shot with the
Healey blue and white cove colors. We are having trouble with the door lines
on the passenger side door. The door gap is extremely tight on the top section
of the rear part of the door. Will the articles from the AHCUSA answer these
fitment questions . We've tried door shimes, grinding and still have a tight
fit. We have spent hours on the door fitting and got the driver side perfect
but the passenger side is driving us up the wall, (door has been repaired
(welded) and yes it is the same size as the drivers door..
Do you think the articles will help?  Healey Articles from AHCUSA or
Norm,David Nock's technical book be of help?
Thanks Howard in Ohio
akronzips at aol.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary <Editorgary at aol.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Nov 24, 2011 10:58 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] reassembly


Bob,
ll the suggestions you might need for reassembly have been contained in
oger Moment's series of articles in Austin-Healey Magazine, which are also
vailable to AHCUSA members in pdf form on the healey.org website.
For my money, Heritage is the very best for interior upholstery, seats,
oor panels, etc.
Gary
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Fri Nov 25 01:19:22 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 09:19:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] reassembly//question
In-Reply-To: <8CE794FD5CEBC83-1E54-56C82@webmail-m170.sysops.aol.com>
References: <c971.4d794013.3c006bf9@aol.com>
	<8CE794FD5CEBC83-1E54-56C82@webmail-m170.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmBArCy=vPXhr5vkAyy=QNqZgz2h8CoJwE2ti59ezkaqkw@mail.gmail.com>

Not quite easy online, but...

I would try to refit the front fender, and try tol ower the front a bit.
You may even have to partialy refit the front fender also. This will enable
You to shim the lower door hinge and/or grind the top and You wont ruin the
front gap. Sometimes You may even get the same effect by lifting the rear
of the door up hard thus bending the front pillar section a bit (wont be
noticable) and get the door to position (or maybe lovering a bit afterwards
at the hinges).
As an alternative method, You may remove the rear fender and hammer/shape
the rear door pillar area and lower the rear part of the rear fender a
bit.

Gergo


2011/11/25 <akronzips at aol.com>

> Hi Gary:
> Howard in Ohio with a 1961 BT7 about to be reassembled . My question is
> about
> door fitment. Currently the car is in primer and about to be shot with the
> Healey blue and white cove colors. We are having trouble with the door
> lines
> on the passenger side door. The door gap is extremely tight on the top
> section
> of the rear part of the door. Will the articles from the AHCUSA answer
> these
> fitment questions . We've tried door shimes, grinding and still have a
> tight
> fit. We have spent hours on the door fitting and got the driver side
> perfect
> but the passenger side is driving us up the wall, (door has been repaired
> (welded) and yes it is the same size as the drivers door..
> Do you think the articles will help?  Healey Articles from AHCUSA or
> Norm,David Nock's technical book be of help?
> Thanks Howard in Ohio
> akronzips at aol.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary <Editorgary at aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Nov 24, 2011 10:58 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] reassembly
>
>
> Bob,
> ll the suggestions you might need for reassembly have been contained in
> oger Moment's series of articles in Austin-Healey Magazine, which are also
> vailable to AHCUSA members in pdf form on the healey.org website.
> For my money, Heritage is the very best for interior upholstery, seats,
> oor panels, etc.
> Gary
> ______________________________________________
> ealeys at autox.team.net
> onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> uggested annual donation  $12.75
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Nov 25 04:44:12 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 06:44:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] reassembly//question
In-Reply-To: <8CE794FD5CEBC83-1E54-56C82@webmail-m170.sysops.aol.com>
References: <c971.4d794013.3c006bf9@aol.com>
	<8CE794FD5CEBC83-1E54-56C82@webmail-m170.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001c01ccab67$8d339190$a79ab4b0$@net>

Sounds like typical sag of the body panels when the inner sill was being
repaired, in turn due to the car's structure having been supported in the
wrong places. 

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of akronzips at aol.com
Sent: 2011-11-25 1:09
To: Editorgary at aol.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] reassembly//question

Hi Gary:
Howard in Ohio with a 1961 BT7 about to be reassembled . My question is
about
door fitment. Currently the car is in primer and about to be shot with the
Healey blue and white cove colors. We are having trouble with the door lines
on the passenger side door. The door gap is extremely tight on the top
section
of the rear part of the door. Will the articles from the AHCUSA answer these
fitment questions . We've tried door shimes, grinding and still have a tight
fit. We have spent hours on the door fitting and got the driver side perfect
but the passenger side is driving us up the wall, (door has been repaired
(welded) and yes it is the same size as the drivers door..
Do you think the articles will help?  Healey Articles from AHCUSA or
Norm,David Nock's technical book be of help?
Thanks Howard in Ohio
akronzips at aol.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary <Editorgary at aol.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Nov 24, 2011 10:58 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] reassembly


Bob,
ll the suggestions you might need for reassembly have been contained in
oger Moment's series of articles in Austin-Healey Magazine, which are also
vailable to AHCUSA members in pdf form on the healey.org website.
For my money, Heritage is the very best for interior upholstery, seats,
oor panels, etc.
Gary
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From bn2cars at gmail.com  Fri Nov 25 07:56:10 2011
From: bn2cars at gmail.com (Don Tate)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 09:56:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe
In-Reply-To: <001501cca977$becb7930$3c626b90$@net>
References: <BB676F1A-5C3E-4F98-A528-1DE1B43B24CA@comcast.net>
	<001501cca977$becb7930$3c626b90$@net>
Message-ID: <C6075F38-3B86-4A36-A449-B233C40A5E0E@gmail.com>

Does anyone know a source and/or product to use for the correct dull silver
?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 22, 2011, at 7:34 PM, "Ron Ray" <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> There can't be a vote if  by "suppose to be"  you mean what was original.
> Read the Originality Guide published by the Austin-Healey Concours
Registry.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of robert westcott
> Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:03 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe
>
> OK,
>
>
> I am baffled (not unusual).   Is the heater return pipe along the top
> of the engine supposed to be natural copper color on the 100?
> I have also seen it silver, engine green and black.
>
> What is the vote?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn2cars at gmail.com

From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Nov 25 08:58:05 2011
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 09:58:05 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Healeys] reassembly//question
Message-ID: <25325420.438438.1322236685065.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>


From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Fri Nov 25 10:53:47 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 12:53:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
Message-ID: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>

Just got the sad news that Bill Barnett passed away last evening. I don't  
know all of the details as of yet, but as soon as I do, I'll pass them along 
as  well. For those of you who knew Bill, you know what a handful he could 
be at  times, but a bigger heart you'll never find. And for those of you who 
didn't,  you missed out on one of the truly great characters who make up 
this  Austin-Healey community. He will be missed.
Steven Kingsbury

From akronzips at aol.com  Fri Nov 25 11:29:04 2011
From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 13:29:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] reassembly//question
In-Reply-To: <25325420.438438.1322236685065.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
References: <25325420.438438.1322236685065.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
Message-ID: <8CE79B73E5BE332-694-34991@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks Kieth, Gergo:
     I printed off the suggestions and I'm taking them over to my body man and
he and I will try them this afternoon.
Things we have tried:
1. we removed the rear passenger fender and adjusted the rear piller with
rubber mallet (a little better fit but still not enough room)
2. Shimmed the lower hinge on the passenger door.
3. ground on the door  and the rear fender seam where it meets the rear door
piller. result ground through the door edge skin ,2 " line, will need to
braise//weld the seam and also ground the edge of the rear fender seam where
it meets the door pillar and split it so will need to brade and  or weld it.
(We will grind down o where we need it then braise //weld it)
4. We are reluctant to move the front fender as the lines are perfect on
top(where the stainless bead fis) and up front on the headlight buckets.

I will keep you posted if you're interested . Note framed seems straight as an
arrow
Thanks again for your suggestions
Howard
1961 BT7  Mark I tri-car
(I know Mark II's and 1962 are the true tri carbs)



-----Original Message-----
From: llennep <llennep at verizon.net>
To: pajtamuvek <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>; akronzips <akronzips at aol.com>
Cc: Editorgary <Editorgary at aol.com>; Healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Nov 25, 2011 10:58 am
Subject: Re: Re: [Healeys] reassembly//question



If in the first line you mean rear fender I would concur with Gergo
suggestions.  I had severe trouble like this on the BN7 resto and wound up
tweaking the frame.


Keith


On 11/25/11, Austin Healey<pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

Not quite easy online, but...

I would try to refit the front fender, and try tol ower the front a bit.
You may even have to partialy refit the front fender also. This will enable
You to shim the lower door hinge and/or grind the top and You wont ruin the
front gap. Sometimes You may even get the same effect by lifting the rear
of the door up hard thus bending the front pillar section a bit (wont be
noticable) and get the door to position (or maybe lovering a bit afterwards
at the hinges).
As an alternative method, You may remove the rear fender and hammer/shape
the rear door pillar area and lower the rear part of the rear fender a
bit.

Gergo


2011/11/25 <akronzips at aol.com>

> Hi Gary:
> Howard in Ohio with a 1961 BT7 about to be reassembled . My question is
> about
> door fitment. Currently the car is in primer and about to be shot with the
> Healey blue and white cove colors. We are having trouble with the door
> lines
> on the passenger side door. The door gap is extremely tight on the top
> section
> of the rear part of the door. Will the articles from the AHCUSA answer
> these
> fitment questions . We've tried door shimes, grinding and still have a
> tight
> fit. We have spent hours on the door fitting and got the driver side
> perfect
> but the passenger side is driving us up the wall, (door has been repaired
> (welded) and yes it is the same size as the drivers door..
> Do you think the articles will help? Healey Articles from AHCUSA or
> Norm,David Nock's technical book be of help?
> Thanks Howard in Ohio
> akronzips at aol.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary <Editorgary at aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Nov 24, 2011 10:58 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] reassembly
>
>
> Bob,
> ll the suggestions you might need for reassembly have been contained in
> oger Moment's series of articles in Austin-Healey Magazine, which are also
> vailable to AHCUSA members in pdf form on the healey.org website.
> For my money, Heritage is the very best for interior upholstery, seats,
> oor panels, etc.
> Gary
> ______________________________________________
> ealeys at autox.team.net
> onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> uggested annual donation $12.75
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 25 11:31:00 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 10:31:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
References: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYqSyGqtpAaM=zkK7tRyAW4zt1aVHSjNi4qLZQB7bqo-SQ@mail.gmail.com>

So sorry to hear this. Never had the chance to meet him, but we traded many
emails over the years, and he was always willing to share what he knew or
engage in a good debate.


On Fri, Nov 25, 2011 at 9:53 AM, <ATIGHTPROD at aol.com> wrote:

> Just got the sad news that Bill Barnett passed away last evening. I don't
> know all of the details as of yet, but as soon as I do, I'll pass them
> along
> as  well. For those of you who knew Bill, you know what a handful he could
> be at  times, but a bigger heart you'll never find. And for those of you
> who
> didn't,  you missed out on one of the truly great characters who make up
> this  Austin-Healey community. He will be missed.
> Steven Kingsbury
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Fri Nov 25 12:56:48 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 11:56:48 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
References: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EE2A380C8EE047F8AC3BB86FA51EB8B2@LeonardPCPC>

Marge and I met Bill and his then wife enroute to the west coast Eureka meet 
in 1976.  Distance between Vacaville and southern California kept us apart 
but I have a collection of e-mails that span part of the time period between 
then and now.  We would 'confront' each other periodically at shows that we 
both attended.

Marge and Bill had an on-going friendly 'hate' relationship when Marge found 
out his birth date and we sent him a Happy Birthday e-mail.  He wanted to 
know how she found out and she would not tell him.  Bill began calling her 
the "Witchy Woman".  When he arranged to stop by our house in 2008, we 
greeted him with Marge wearing a witch's hat.  He never found out that he 
had mentioned his birth date during a telephone conversation.

We both had one other connection that kept us in contact each year.  June 
27th marked both his birthday and our wedding anniversary.

We will miss him.  God Bless his (sometimes ornery) soul.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2011 9:53 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett


> Just got the sad news that Bill Barnett passed away last evening. I don't
> know all of the details as of yet, but as soon as I do, I'll pass them 
> along
> as  well. For those of you who knew Bill, you know what a handful he could
> be at  times, but a bigger heart you'll never find. And for those of you 
> who
> didn't,  you missed out on one of the truly great characters who make up
> this  Austin-Healey community. He will be missed.
> Steven Kingsbury
> _______________________________________________

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Nov 25 13:16:15 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 15:16:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe
In-Reply-To: <C6075F38-3B86-4A36-A449-B233C40A5E0E@gmail.com>
References: <BB676F1A-5C3E-4F98-A528-1DE1B43B24CA@comcast.net>
	<001501cca977$becb7930$3c626b90$@net>
	<C6075F38-3B86-4A36-A449-B233C40A5E0E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003201ccabaf$15bdd290$413977b0$@net>

Don, 

No need to be fussy about that. The factory certainly wasn't. A medium
silver paint that was hand brushed and often had streaks and hardened drips
on the underside of the pipe was not uncommon.

Rich Chrysler
Hundred Registrar

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Don Tate
Sent: 2011-11-25 9:56
To: Ron Ray
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe

Does anyone know a source and/or product to use for the correct dull silver
?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 22, 2011, at 7:34 PM, "Ron Ray" <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> There can't be a vote if  by "suppose to be"  you mean what was original.
> Read the Originality Guide published by the Austin-Healey Concours
Registry.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of robert westcott
> Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:03 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1 return pipe
>
> OK,
>
>
> I am baffled (not unusual).   Is the heater return pipe along the top
> of the engine supposed to be natural copper color on the 100?
> I have also seen it silver, engine green and black.
>
> What is the vote?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn2cars at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-269.jpg]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Nov 25 13:31:18 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 15:31:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
References: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003701ccabb1$2f949710$8ebdc530$@net>

So sorry to hear of Bill's passing. I believe he was the original owner of
an early '53 BN1 which he absolutely loved. Last I spoke to him, he was
interested in developing the machining for replacement laygear and first
gears for the BN1. A very enthusiastic fellow. He will certainly be missed.

Rich Chrysler

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD at aol.com
Sent: 2011-11-25 12:54
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett

Just got the sad news that Bill Barnett passed away last evening. I don't  
know all of the details as of yet, but as soon as I do, I'll pass them along

as  well. For those of you who knew Bill, you know what a handful he could 
be at  times, but a bigger heart you'll never find. And for those of you who

didn't,  you missed out on one of the truly great characters who make up 
this  Austin-Healey community. He will be missed.
Steven Kingsbury

From edriver at sasktel.net  Fri Nov 25 14:20:00 2011
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 15:20:00 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <003701ccabb1$2f949710$8ebdc530$@net>
References: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
	<003701ccabb1$2f949710$8ebdc530$@net>
Message-ID: <4ED00680.7020107@sasktel.net>

I wish to echo Rich's comments, I had a lengthy sets of correspondence 
with Bill.  The last of our
correspondence dealt with the purchase of of Lempert c&p gear set which 
he was considering
for his BT7. He was truly fired up to have the c&p installed.  Somewhere 
along the line
I owed him a couple of pints - sorry Bill!   You and the great e-mails 
will be missed!

Ed Driver
Saskatoon

Rich Chrysler wrote:
> So sorry to hear of Bill's passing. I believe he was the original owner of
> an early '53 BN1 which he absolutely loved. Last I spoke to him, he was
> interested in developing the machining for replacement laygear and first
> gears for the BN1. A very enthusiastic fellow. He will certainly be missed.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD at aol.com
> Sent: 2011-11-25 12:54
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
>
> Just got the sad news that Bill Barnett passed away last evening. I don't  
> know all of the details as of yet, but as soon as I do, I'll pass them along
>
> as  well. For those of you who knew Bill, you know what a handful he could 
> be at  times, but a bigger heart you'll never find. And for those of you who
>
> didn't,  you missed out on one of the truly great characters who make up 
> this  Austin-Healey community. He will be missed.
> Steven Kingsbury
> _______________________________________________

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Nov 25 14:30:00 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 08:30:00 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
References: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6D273CABA7B040E4ADD101A427A4D99A@PatrickQuinnPC>

Hello Steven

Many thanks for passing on the sad news about Bill.

How well Caroline and I remember the first time we met Bill. It was April
1980 when after an Australian National Rally in Melbourne, Bill and around
25+ other Americans arrived en mass aboard a Greyhound bus at our home in
suburban Sydney.

Bill was big man who greeted me with a big and friendly handshake. He
quickly settled into the welcoming celebrations we had planned for that
evening and the sightseeing over the next few days. I seem to recall that he
liked an ale or three.

His Austin-Healey knowledge was vast, and being Bill he wasn't backward at
saying his piece. Bill called a spade a shovel, and we Australians like that
in a bloke.

We all develop as the years pass by, but it was always a pleasure to
correspond with Bill Barnett and we will miss him dearly.

Best wishes

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, 26 November 2011 4:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett

Just got the sad news that Bill Barnett passed away last evening. I don't  
know all of the details as of yet, but as soon as I do, I'll pass them along

as  well. For those of you who knew Bill, you know what a handful he could 
be at  times, but a bigger heart you'll never find. And for those of you who

didn't,  you missed out on one of the truly great characters who make up 
this  Austin-Healey community. He will be missed.
Steven Kingsbury

From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Nov 25 15:28:03 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:28:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
References: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE79D8A1BE7EEA-16D0-6FC6A@webmail-d179.sysops.aol.com>

Have not heard from Bill since early October and his passing is a tough pill
to swallow.
At the end of his emails, at least for a long while he would add the following
quote from Mark Twain:

When I was younger, I could remember anything whether it had happened
or not. But now my facilities are decaying and soon I shall be so I
cannot remember anything but the things that never happened.

In a sense we are all decaying but I will retain the good memories of Mr. Bill
and his little red car,
You'll be missed my friend
Aloha
Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: ATIGHTPROD <ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Nov 25, 2011 12:57 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett


Just got the sad news that Bill Barnett passed away last evening. Steven
Kingsbury
______________________________________________

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Nov 25 19:02:39 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 21:02:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
Message-ID: <3a959.72126bde.3c01a2bf@aol.com>

As editor of Austin-Healey Magazine, I traded correspondence with Bill on 
numerous occasions and saw him fairly often at Southern California Healey 
meets. He knew more about the cars than most enthusiasts I've met (and hated 
seeing errors in other peoples' information), and worked extensively on them. 
In spite of having some physical challenges, he did a lot of his own work, 
and made a point to drive his cars as often and as enthusiastically, as 
possible. I can imagine how much his presence and his knowledge will be missed in 
Southern California.

Gary Anderson
Former editor, Austin-Healey Magazine

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Nov 25 21:14:30 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 04:14:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?bill_barnett?=
Message-ID: <20111126041430.28929.qmail@server278.com>

bill and his housekeeper/driver came to see me on time when they were in vegas.  he was telling me all about his red healey and was showing pictures when i blurted out "how in the hell do both of you get in that car".  his driver, who was a bit "chunky" said "are you saying we are fat?"  i immedietely realized i had inserted foot in mouth and started to apologize, but bill just laughed it off and said yes they were.  i saw him a few time after that and we would laugh about it.  hjim

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 25 21:31:59 2011
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 20:31:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <3a959.72126bde.3c01a2bf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1322281919.86640.YahooMailClassic@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bill had his own photo section on our SoCal club website:
http://www.austin-healey.org/image/tid/28
Some fun pictures there, some going back 49 years.  Like Bill under the bonnet
of his "green car".  If you click on the title there are captions that Bill
wrote to go with the pictures.
His beautiful Carmine Red BN1 is featured on our website banner. You might
need to wait a couple seconds as images rotate.
Bill will be missed in Healey-land.
Bert

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 25 23:31:34 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 22:31:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <1322281919.86640.YahooMailClassic@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <3a959.72126bde.3c01a2bf@aol.com>
	<1322281919.86640.YahooMailClassic@web36707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYq5ZN1=uoFriPbzcJ_0zuwXHO3jH=VKcyVhC77w62+s0Q@mail.gmail.com>

I was active in the Healey club when I lived in Studio City from 1977-1982
I even went to Lake Arrowhead for a big meet, in 1980, rather than go to my
college graduation ceremony. I thought I knew him from back in the day.

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
On Nov 25, 2011 8:31 PM, "Bert Van Brande" <bertvanbrande at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Bill had his own photo section on our SoCal club website:
> http://www.austin-healey.org/image/tid/28
> Some fun pictures there, some going back 49 years.  Like Bill under the
> bonnet
> of his "green car".  If you click on the title there are captions that Bill
> wrote to go with the pictures.
> His beautiful Carmine Red BN1 is featured on our website banner. You might
> need to wait a couple seconds as images rotate.
> Bill will be missed in Healey-land.
> Bert
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com

From ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com  Fri Nov 25 23:36:20 2011
From: ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com (Todd Taylor)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 01:36:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] steering spacer
Message-ID: <4ED088E4.6030305@twcny.rr.com>

Does any on have an extra steering spacer,   part of one of mine broke off.
The spacer that goes in the frame to hold the steering gear box or the 
idler arm.
gets pinched in there with bolts..

From sebring at hotkey.net.au  Sat Nov 26 05:32:31 2011
From: sebring at hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 23:32:31 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
Message-ID: <4ED0DC5F.7060603@hotkey.net.au>

What a great time you had when visiting Bill.

He took Lenore and me,  and along with the late Rene we went to 
Riverside Historic races. I still remember the Faspec Sprite going 
around the outside of Ferraris and other exotics.

He also took us to a Healey Club of Sth. California celebration and cake 
cutting for a anniversary of x years of club action.

We then returned home and Bill had the great idea we all retire to the 
hot tub and relax before the long flight.  We talked Healeys and 
reviewed his visit to Australia where we had meet when he attended the 
National Rally mentioned by Pat Quinn.  Hot tub was cool ( is that 
possible ) and we stayed wet and wrinkled, drinking and chatting until 
it was daybreak and we had to catch a plane home.

Must tell Bernie from NZ that  he features in Bill's photo collection.

Bill was one of the great characters that the Healey Hilton has enabled 
many of us to meet and enjoy.

Joe

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov 26 08:54:58 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 15:54:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] steering spacer
In-Reply-To: <4ED088E4.6030305@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1019333346.259302.1322322898593.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

British Car Specialists is a good source for hard-to-find parts. If you strike out, I would think yours could be repaired by a good welder/machinist, depending on how it's broken. This part is only under compression, and would be safe if repaired properly. 

How did you manage to break one of these? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

Does any on have an extra steering spacer, part of one of mine broke off. 
The spacer that goes in the frame to hold the steering gear box or the 
idler arm. 
gets pinched in there with bolts.. 
_______________________________________________ 

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Nov 26 09:06:03 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 09:06:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] steering spacer
In-Reply-To: <1019333346.259302.1322322898593.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4ED088E4.6030305@twcny.rr.com>
	<1019333346.259302.1322322898593.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <680CF680B7E84D16BF7785AA49A84F41@oscar>

I have one. Part# 1B 6195 
Let me know. dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 8:55 AM
To: Todd Taylor
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering spacer

British Car Specialists is a good source for hard-to-find parts. If you
strike out, I would think yours could be repaired by a good
welder/machinist, depending on how it's broken. This part is only under
compression, and would be safe if repaired properly. 

How did you manage to break one of these? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

Does any on have an extra steering spacer, part of one of mine broke off. 
The spacer that goes in the frame to hold the steering gear box or the 
idler arm. 
gets pinched in there with bolts.. 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov 26 09:09:39 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:09:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] The List ...
Message-ID: <1155833874.259729.1322323779663.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

... has been much more responsive lately. Must be due to the server upgrades. 

Thanks, Mark. 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Nov 26 09:18:44 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 09:18:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The List ...
In-Reply-To: <1155833874.259729.1322323779663.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1155833874.259729.1322323779663.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <62334837EFD349D484158FBAF5D38452@oscar>

I can't reply to MSN.com or hotmail address messages without frequent bounce
errors. Very bad for business... sigh.
dp

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 9:10 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] The List ...

... has been much more responsive lately. Must be due to the server
upgrades. 

Thanks, Mark. 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Nov 26 09:21:25 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 09:21:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The List ...
In-Reply-To: <62334837EFD349D484158FBAF5D38452@oscar>
References: <1155833874.259729.1322323779663.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<62334837EFD349D484158FBAF5D38452@oscar>
Message-ID: <9CDFBBA2D3884458AE500325C4E4AD4B@oscar>

Sorry, didn't mean to imply it's due to this lists new server.. just another
unexplained glitch in the web.....
dp

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Porter
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 9:19 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The List ...

I can't reply to MSN.com or hotmail address messages without frequent bounce
errors. Very bad for business... sigh.
dp

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sat Nov 26 11:58:38 2011
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 10:58:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett
In-Reply-To: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
References: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003b01ccac6d$68d31b20$3a795160$@com>

I would like to let the listers know that the December issue of Healey Motor
News, the monthly newsletter of the Austin-Healey Association of Southern
California, will be dedicated to Bill.  For those who have interest, it will
be posted on the public portion of our website, www.austin-healey.org, by
December 1.  We invite everyone, whether they knew Bill casually or well, to
drop by and enjoy the remembrances.  A collage of photos of Bill is
currently posted on our home page.

Bruce Steele
President
Austin-Healey Association of Southern California
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

From mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de  Sat Nov 26 12:01:57 2011
From: mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de (Eberhard Pietzsch)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 20:01:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
Message-ID: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>

Hi,

I have a problem removing the steering wheel of my BN6.

I recently managed to unscrew the large nut of the steering
wheel. Washer as well as aluminium (or alloy?) ring with nose
for indicator could be taken off.

Now the steering should be free to be pulled off. But it is
sticky. I can only move it about 1 cm forwand and backward.
I have made some fotos of this:

http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t1.jpg
http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t2.jpg

I can freely move the wheel between these two positions but
I have no chance to pull it of. There seems to be another
protection against pulling but I can't find it. Can someone
of you help me?

Thanks,
Eberhard

-- 
Eberhard Pietzsch
Tuebingen

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Sat Nov 26 12:22:42 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 20:22:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037D1AD4A@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Hi Eberhard,
It seems you have a non adjustable steering wheel. It should slide out when
you have removed the nut, washer and aluminium ring. Use some penetrating oil
or WD40 and move it in and out to get it off.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Eberhard Pietzsch
Gesendet: Samstag, 26. November 2011 20:02
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky

Hi,

I have a problem removing the steering wheel of my BN6.

I recently managed to unscrew the large nut of the steering wheel. Washer as
well as aluminium (or alloy?) ring with nose for indicator could be taken
off.

Now the steering should be free to be pulled off. But it is sticky. I can only
move it about 1 cm forwand and backward.
I have made some fotos of this:

http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t1.jpg
http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t2.jpg

I can freely move the wheel between these two positions but I have no chance
to pull it of. There seems to be another protection against pulling but I
can't find it. Can someone of you help me?

Thanks,
Eberhard

--
Eberhard Pietzsch
Tuebingen
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Sat Nov 26 13:25:12 2011
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 15:25:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037D1AD4A@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037D1AD4A@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <000601ccac79$80f6f3f0$82e4dbd0$@com>

Isn't there a circlip around the steering shaft that needs to be removed.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 2:23 PM
To: mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky

Hi Eberhard,
It seems you have a non adjustable steering wheel. It should slide out when
you have removed the nut, washer and aluminium ring. Use some penetrating
oil
or WD40 and move it in and out to get it off.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Im
Auftrag von Eberhard Pietzsch
Gesendet: Samstag, 26. November 2011 20:02
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky

Hi,

I have a problem removing the steering wheel of my BN6.

I recently managed to unscrew the large nut of the steering wheel. Washer as
well as aluminium (or alloy?) ring with nose for indicator could be taken
off.

Now the steering should be free to be pulled off. But it is sticky. I can
only
move it about 1 cm forwand and backward.
I have made some fotos of this:

http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t1.jpg
http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t2.jpg

I can freely move the wheel between these two positions but I have no chance
to pull it of. There seems to be another protection against pulling but I
can't find it. Can someone of you help me?

Thanks,
Eberhard

--
Eberhard Pietzsch
Tuebingen
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Nov 26 13:33:21 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 15:33:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <000601ccac79$80f6f3f0$82e4dbd0$@com>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037D1AD4A@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<000601ccac79$80f6f3f0$82e4dbd0$@com>
Message-ID: <000b01ccac7a$a3b1fc40$eb15f4c0$@net>

There is a circlip in a small groove only on the adjustable wheel
arrangement. This non adjustable wheel should pull straight off its spline. 

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: 2011-11-26 3:25
To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com; mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de;
Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky

Isn't there a circlip around the steering shaft that needs to be removed.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 2:23 PM
To: mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky

Hi Eberhard,
It seems you have a non adjustable steering wheel. It should slide out when
you have removed the nut, washer and aluminium ring. Use some penetrating
oil
or WD40 and move it in and out to get it off.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Im
Auftrag von Eberhard Pietzsch
Gesendet: Samstag, 26. November 2011 20:02
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky

Hi,

I have a problem removing the steering wheel of my BN6.

I recently managed to unscrew the large nut of the steering wheel. Washer as
well as aluminium (or alloy?) ring with nose for indicator could be taken
off.

Now the steering should be free to be pulled off. But it is sticky. I can
only
move it about 1 cm forwand and backward.
I have made some fotos of this:

http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t1.jpg
http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t2.jpg

I can freely move the wheel between these two positions but I have no chance
to pull it of. There seems to be another protection against pulling but I
can't find it. Can someone of you help me?

Thanks,
Eberhard

--
Eberhard Pietzsch
Tuebingen
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Sat Nov 26 13:36:07 2011
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 15:36:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <000601ccac79$80f6f3f0$82e4dbd0$@com>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037D1AD4A@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
	<000601ccac79$80f6f3f0$82e4dbd0$@com>
Message-ID: <4ED14DB7.5090700@htcnet.org>

The nonadjustable ones only used a nut to hold them on.

John

On 11/26/2011 3:25 PM, Team.net wrote:
> Isn't there a circlip around the steering shaft that needs to be removed.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 2:23 PM
> To: mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de; Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
>
> Hi Eberhard,
> It seems you have a non adjustable steering wheel. It should slide out when
> you have removed the nut, washer and aluminium ring. Use some penetrating
> oil
> or WD40 and move it in and out to get it off.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> Im
> Auftrag von Eberhard Pietzsch
> Gesendet: Samstag, 26. November 2011 20:02
> An: healeys at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a problem removing the steering wheel of my BN6.
>
> I recently managed to unscrew the large nut of the steering wheel. Washer as
> well as aluminium (or alloy?) ring with nose for indicator could be taken
> off.
>
> Now the steering should be free to be pulled off. But it is sticky. I can
> only
> move it about 1 cm forwand and backward.
> I have made some fotos of this:
>
> http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t1.jpg
> http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t2.jpg
>
> I can freely move the wheel between these two positions but I have no chance
> to pull it of. There seems to be another protection against pulling but I
> can't find it. Can someone of you help me?
>
> Thanks,
> Eberhard
>
> --
> Eberhard Pietzsch
> Tuebingen
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef.eckert at t-systems.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 26 14:45:05 2011
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 13:45:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] 4-cyl engine questions.
Message-ID: <1322343905.33400.YahooMailClassic@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on restoration in
2006.  A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the previous
owner but never finished.  Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was
reportedly rebuild.
When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head.  I found new
pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot.  After
rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine
started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly.  We ran the engine
a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing.  Too
bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get a
reading.  There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either.
Fast forward 6 years,  I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I
have a few engine related questions.   I am refurbishing a couple parts on the
engine:  new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I
rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil
delivery pipe.  
How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump housing?
 Just with the threads of the couplings?   Do I need to use a sealant here?  
Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine.   My current plan is to drop
the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see oil
pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get compression
readings and do a leak down test.  Any recommendations regarding startup
procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly?  
I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently.  The pistons
have a shallow dish,  I din't actually measure the dish and will only be able
to do so if/when I take the head off again.   I can take a photo of the
underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on.  Would it be
possible to identify the pistons based on photos?  If so I'll post them
online.

Bert

From jwhlyadv at aol.com  Sat Nov 26 14:56:40 2011
From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:56:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Early Bird Gets the Bourbon Cake!
Message-ID: <8CE7A9D696552E6-1ADC-586AD@webmail-m012.sysops.aol.com>

Early Bird Gets the Bourbon Cake



Itbs never too early to start the party!

And what kind of party is it without cake?

Webre getting ready for you in Louisville next summer and thanks to our
friends at Adam Matthews bakeries we have a special gift for anyone that
registers for Conclave 2012 before February 29, 2012. The Kentucky Bourbon
Barrel Cake cake!

The cake is the original, one and only Bourbon Barrel Cake and is a moist
brown sugar cake with pure maple and chocolate cake, topped with walnuts,
chocolate and caramel bourbon icing. Seven year aged Kentucky bourbon is used
to give the cake a very unique nutty maple flavor.

Anyone that registers before February 29, 2012 will receive this special gift
at registration check-in during Conclave.

This is a special limited time offer!



Visit www.2012conclave.com for more information.






Jim Werner
Louisville, KY

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov 26 15:27:13 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 22:27:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 4-cyl engine questions.
In-Reply-To: <1322343905.33400.YahooMailClassic@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <167110350.269673.1322346433087.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

We put the flex oil pipe in our BN2/100M. I seem to (barely) recall there were some washers on the (AN-style) fittings; if not, I had no concern the line wouldn't seal with whatever came with the line (it's the Denis Welch product). We have excellent oil pressure. 

100 pistons are dished, the higher-compression 100M pistons have a wider flat ring around the edge. Yes, someone can probably tell from photos if the pistons look correct. If your engine ran well before I'd just go with that until you have a real reason to dismantle the engine (you will, sooner or later). 

Before you start again, I'd put one of the ZDDP additives in the oil. It sounds like you may not have run enough to bed in the cam and lifters; next time you start let the engine run at about 2,000RPM for about 15 min. to finish bedding in the cam. 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on restoration in 
2006. A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the previous 
owner but never finished. Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was 
reportedly rebuild. 
When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head. I found new 
pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot. After 
rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine 
started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly. We ran the engine 
a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing. Too 
bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get a 
reading. There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either. 
Fast forward 6 years, I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I 
have a few engine related questions. I am refurbishing a couple parts on the 
engine: new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I 
rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil 
delivery pipe. 
How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump housing? 
Just with the threads of the couplings? Do I need to use a sealant here? 
Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine. My current plan is to drop 
the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see oil 
pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get compression 
readings and do a leak down test. Any recommendations regarding startup 
procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly? 
I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently. The pistons 
have a shallow dish, I din't actually measure the dish and will only be able 
to do so if/when I take the head off again. I can take a photo of the 
underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on. Would it be 
possible to identify the pistons based on photos? If so I'll post them 
online. 

Bert 
_______________________________________________ 
Healeys at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Nov 26 16:17:45 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:17:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 4-cyl engine questions.
In-Reply-To: <167110350.269673.1322346433087.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1322343905.33400.YahooMailClassic@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<167110350.269673.1322346433087.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7krY7P1KhBmC02_b48uMdhAXoShWeYxtfDtqQgzoO6_g@mail.gmail.com>

Bert--

You don't need and should not use any sealants with the oil pump line.  The
AN threads/fittings are designed to seal on tightening.  BTW not all of
these oil lines are created equally:   After my original copper line broke
at the block end (luckily I just happened to have my eye on the OP guage,
saw the needle fall and shut down in time to prevent catastrophic damage) I
ordered one through a major Healey parts supplier.  They sent me one that
did not have swivel fittings at both ends and installation was not easy.
 The DW pipes have swivels at both ends.

If the engine was not run in properly--which I would define as 20-30
minutes of continuous running at 2500 or so RPM's with oil containing high
levels of ZDDP--there is not much you can do about it now, as whatever wear
that took place to the tappets and cam surfaces is irreversible.  So I
would simply hope for the best and pretend you are starting out from
scratch.  If the cam/lifters go south they will do so in pretty short order
and you'll see it in the tappet clearances and general flat performance.

Run it in, drain the oil and change the filter and let us know how it goes.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Nov 26, 2011 at 5:27 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> We put the flex oil pipe in our BN2/100M. I seem to (barely) recall there
> were some washers on the (AN-style) fittings; if not, I had no concern the
> line wouldn't seal with whatever came with the line (it's the Denis Welch
> product). We have excellent oil pressure.
>
> 100 pistons are dished, the higher-compression 100M pistons have a wider
> flat ring around the edge. Yes, someone can probably tell from photos if
> the pistons look correct. If your engine ran well before I'd just go with
> that until you have a real reason to dismantle the engine (you will, sooner
> or later).
>
> Before you start again, I'd put one of the ZDDP additives in the oil. It
> sounds like you may not have run enough to bed in the cam and lifters; next
> time you start let the engine run at about 2,000RPM for about 15 min. to
> finish bedding in the cam.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on
> restoration in
> 2006. A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the
> previous
> owner but never finished. Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was
> reportedly rebuild.
> When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head. I found new
> pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot. After
> rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine
> started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly. We ran the
> engine
> a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing.
> Too
> bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get
> a
> reading. There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either.
> Fast forward 6 years, I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I
> have a few engine related questions. I am refurbishing a couple parts on
> the
> engine: new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I
> rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil
> delivery pipe.
> How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump
> housing?
> Just with the threads of the couplings? Do I need to use a sealant here?
> Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine. My current plan is to
> drop
> the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see
> oil
> pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get
> compression
> readings and do a leak down test. Any recommendations regarding startup
> procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly?
> I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently. The
> pistons
> have a shallow dish, I din't actually measure the dish and will only be
> able
> to do so if/when I take the head off again. I can take a photo of the
> underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on. Would it be
> possible to identify the pistons based on photos? If so I'll post them
> online.
>
> Bert
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Nov 26 17:07:09 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:07:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <4ED14DB7.5090700@htcnet.org>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de><C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB6037D1AD4A@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM><000601ccac79$80f6f3f0$82e4dbd0$@com>
	<4ED14DB7.5090700@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <40243B572017448CB683EB7950565FA3@GregPC>

PBblaster or other penetrating oil, then if still stuck try gently hitting 
the shaft with a hammer (lead or copper faced it you have one) while you are 
firmly supporting/pulling the hub from the back with your other hand, good 
luck!

Greg Lemon

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Nov 26 19:19:16 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:19:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
Message-ID: <20111126211916.T54IY.275633.root@pamxwww01-z01>

Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.  

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm

tom

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 26 19:43:53 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:43:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <20111126211916.T54IY.275633.root@pamxwww01-z01>
Message-ID: <1322361833.67255.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Tom,

Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
suffered from the application of too much horsepower!

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM

Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy. 

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm

tom
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From amalin at mac.com  Sat Nov 26 20:28:13 2011
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 22:28:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 4-cyl engine questions.
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7krY7P1KhBmC02_b48uMdhAXoShWeYxtfDtqQgzoO6_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1322343905.33400.YahooMailClassic@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<167110350.269673.1322346433087.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<CAPTa0B7krY7P1KhBmC02_b48uMdhAXoShWeYxtfDtqQgzoO6_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <75F457E7-ADBA-4459-8813-30A3B0835594@mac.com>

An interesting question is which API Service Rating oil has been in the engine during the brief times it has been run since the long-ago rebuild. The oil could have had the higher levels of ZDDP needed for the flat tappet engine since Service Rating SM wasn't introduced until November 2004, and then it was specified for 2005 and newer engines.

The PO could not have used oil with Service Rating SM (lower ZDDP) if Bert acquired the car prior to November 2004.

The mystery is: which oil did Bert use a few years back?  Service Rated SL (or earlier) could be the only oil the engine has seen.

An interesting question is: if the PO ran the re-built engine, how long did he run it?

Al Malin
Tricarb



On Nov 26, 2011, at 6:17 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:

> Bert--

> <snip/>
> 
> If the engine was not run in properly--which I would define as 20-30
> minutes of continuous running at 2500 or so RPM's with oil containing high
> levels of ZDDP--there is not much you can do about it now, as whatever wear
> that took place to the tappets and cam surfaces is irreversible.  So I
> would simply hope for the best and pretend you are starting out from
> scratch.  If the cam/lifters go south they will do so in pretty short order
> and you'll see it in the tappet clearances and general flat performance.
> 
> Run it in, drain the oil and change the filter and let us know how it goes.
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 
>> 
>> --------------------------------
>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> 
>> I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on
>> restoration in
>> 2006. A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the
>> previous
>> owner but never finished. Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was
>> reportedly rebuild.
>> When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head. I found new
>> pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot. After
>> rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine
>> started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly. We ran the
>> engine
>> a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing.
>> Too
>> bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get
>> a
>> reading. There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either.
>> Fast forward 6 years, I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I
>> have a few engine related questions. I am refurbishing a couple parts on
>> the
>> engine: new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I
>> rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil
>> delivery pipe.
>> How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump
>> housing?
>> Just with the threads of the couplings? Do I need to use a sealant here?
>> Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine. My current plan is to
>> drop
>> the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see
>> oil
>> pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get
>> compression
>> readings and do a leak down test. Any recommendations regarding startup
>> procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly?
>> I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently. The
>> pistons
>> have a shallow dish, I din't actually measure the dish and will only be
>> able
>> to do so if/when I take the head off again. I can take a photo of the
>> underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on. Would it be
>> possible to identify the pistons based on photos? If so I'll post them
>> online.
>> 
>> Bert
>> _________

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Nov 26 20:31:01 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 19:31:01 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Main bearing cap felt seals
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111126192930.01ffeb08@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I noticed the Moss catalog does not have the main bearing cap felt 
seals. I have three but I need four.

What are people using to replace the seals?

Thank you,
John
'62 BT7

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Nov 26 21:19:27 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 20:19:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Timing chain tensinoer
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20111126201432.01ffe9c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I bought I new timing chain tensioner and unbeknownst to me it is a 
County brand.

It lacks the oil hole and I am concerned that the rubber is pour 
quality and could become un-bonded.

Are people having problems with these? If the rubber is good I could 
use the original body with the oil hole.

What about the Denis Welch tensioner (expensive).

John
'62 BT7

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sat Nov 26 23:36:22 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 16:36:22 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <1322361833.67255.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1322361833.67255.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <06822AA7887145D785A190A385A4D78E@Notebook>

Nice to see another V6! I've seen one other - a 100 with a Mitsubishi Magna 
motor - in NZ. Pity they cover everything up with plastic mouldings on later 
motors. There seem to be many parallels between this one and my car (which 
is also on British V8) although this one seems better engineered. Anyone 
know what the Ford V6 puts out? (The Holden is 165bhp)

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 V6 Holden (Buick)

-----Original Message----- 
From: HealeyRick
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:43 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Tom Felts
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy

Tom,

Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
suffered from the application of too much horsepower!

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM

Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm

tom

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Nov 27 00:18:25 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 15:18:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Timing chain tensinoer
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111126201432.01ffe9c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111126201432.01ffe9c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLtDbUeEaoRASXzooiNO=q-5KuYP_fk8XVo8+ELZOM2SQ@mail.gmail.com>

John -

these things are cheap as chips.  Always get your parts from  a proper
specialist in AH parts:

http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/TENSIONER---TIMING-CHAIN-id2115.html

Oh look, a hole!!!

I'm sure David Nock of British Car Specialists has the right kind.

Best,

Alan

On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 at 12:19 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I bought I new timing chain tensioner and unbeknownst to me it is a County
> brand.
>
> It lacks the oil hole and I am concerned that the rubber is pour quality
> and could become un-bonded.
>
> Are people having problems with these? If the rubber is good I could use
> the original body with the oil hole.
>
> What about the Denis Welch tensioner (expensive).
>
> John
> '62 BT7
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com>

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun Nov 27 01:40:19 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 09:40:19 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <06822AA7887145D785A190A385A4D78E@Notebook>
References: <1322361833.67255.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<06822AA7887145D785A190A385A4D78E@Notebook>
Message-ID: <CA+QDXmB9NOWQ2ipFhNxhPnfBEvGUkHCRbaBAE=BfaD5rfy8n2w@mail.gmail.com>

Not my taste, but a very neat job.

Gergo

2011/11/27 Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>

> Nice to see another V6! I've seen one other - a 100 with a Mitsubishi
> Magna motor - in NZ. Pity they cover everything up with plastic mouldings
> on later motors. There seem to be many parallels between this one and my
> car (which is also on British V8) although this one seems better
> engineered. Anyone know what the Ford V6 puts out? (The Holden is 165bhp)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 V6 Holden (Buick)
>
> -----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:43 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Tom Felts
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
>
>
> Tom,
>
> Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
> suffered from the application of too much horsepower!
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>
> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM
>
> Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
> looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/**Other/NormanRest.htm<http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm>
>
> tom
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com>

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov 27 01:50:28 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 09:50:28 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 4-cyl engine questions.
In-Reply-To: <1322343905.33400.YahooMailClassic@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1322343905.33400.YahooMailClassic@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ED1F9D4.4080902@chello.nl>

Bert,
Prior to starting up I would fill up the engine to well over the crank 
journals with 20W50, some squirts (penetrating) oil containing 
Molybdenumdisulfide or Graphite through the plug holes, turn the engine 
slowly by hand for a couple of times to get some oil in all bearings, 
drain the oil to normal level, turn the engine on the starter, still 
without plugs, until you have oil pressure, refit plugs and fire up the 
engine and leave running until hot (1-2 hours) and check all systems for 
leaks and proper working. Do not do this in the garage as there will be 
a massive amount of smoke from the burned oil for a few minutes.
Running in is a matter of opinion. I prefer to run in my engines for 
longevity, low loads (never full throttle) and max 2500-3000 rpm 
depending on the engines stroke, for the long stroke AH engine I would 
choose no more than 2500rpm for about 750mls. After that you can 
gradually increase rpm and load. The engine is fully run in after about 
5000mls.
Change oil and filter after the first start up, than at 500mls, than at 
normal intervals.
Some think this way the engine becomes "lazy". They prefer to break in 
the engine at full load and throttle. This may or may not result in a 
more responsive engine (which I very much doubt), it will also reduce 
the life of the engine.
There is little use to take compression readings until the engine is run in.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 26-11-2011 22:45, Bert Van Brande schreef:
> I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on restoration in
> 2006.  A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the previous
> owner but never finished.  Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was
> reportedly rebuild.
> When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head.  I found new
> pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot.  After
> rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine
> started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly.  We ran the engine
> a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing.  Too
> bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get a
> reading.  There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either.
> Fast forward 6 years,  I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I
> have a few engine related questions.   I am refurbishing a couple parts on the
> engine:  new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I
> rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil
> delivery pipe.
> How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump housing?
>   Just with the threads of the couplings?   Do I need to use a sealant here?
> Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine.   My current plan is to drop
> the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see oil
> pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get compression
> readings and do a leak down test.  Any recommendations regarding startup
> procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly?
> I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently.  The pistons
> have a shallow dish,  I din't actually measure the dish and will only be able
> to do so if/when I take the head off again.   I can take a photo of the
> underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on.  Would it be
> possible to identify the pistons based on photos?  If so I'll post them
> online.
>
> Bert
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4640 - datum van uitgifte: 11/26/11

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Sun Nov 27 02:31:19 2011
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 01:31:19 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <06822AA7887145D785A190A385A4D78E@Notebook>
References: <1322361833.67255.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<06822AA7887145D785A190A385A4D78E@Notebook>
Message-ID: <A3DBEBDD-AAF5-44EC-A11F-83EFFBC6C248@gmail.com>

not being a smart ass but the BJ8 makes 150 stock and I believe over 200 HP
can be achieved.
why swap for 15 HP??

 ron  rader
Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 26, 2011, at 10:36 PM, "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
wrote:

> Nice to see another V6! I've seen one other - a 100 with a Mitsubishi Magna
motor - in NZ. Pity they cover everything up with plastic mouldings on later
motors. There seem to be many parallels between this one and my car (which is
also on British V8) although this one seems better engineered. Anyone know
what the Ford V6 puts out? (The Holden is 165bhp)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 V6 Holden (Buick)
>
> -----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:43 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Tom Felts
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
>
> Tom,
>
> Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
> suffered from the application of too much horsepower!
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>
> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM
>
> Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
> looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm
>
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Nov 27 03:01:17 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 02:01:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <A3DBEBDD-AAF5-44EC-A11F-83EFFBC6C248@gmail.com>
References: <1322361833.67255.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<06822AA7887145D785A190A385A4D78E@Notebook>
	<A3DBEBDD-AAF5-44EC-A11F-83EFFBC6C248@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7F8592B3-03CB-497C-B652-8ACB0879EB1B@att.net>

The V6 is probably a lighter engine'
Mike MacLean

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 27, 2011, at 1:31, F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com> wrote:

> not being a smart ass but the BJ8 makes 150 stock and I believe over 200 HP
> can be achieved.
> why swap for 15 HP??
>
> ron  rader
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 26, 2011, at 10:36 PM, "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
> wrote:
>
>> Nice to see another V6! I've seen one other - a 100 with a Mitsubishi
Magna
> motor - in NZ. Pity they cover everything up with plastic mouldings on
later
> motors. There seem to be many parallels between this one and my car (which
is
> also on British V8) although this one seems better engineered. Anyone know
> what the Ford V6 puts out? (The Holden is 165bhp)
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Peter Linn
>> Brisbane Oz
>> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
>> BN1 V6 Holden (Buick)
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick
>> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:43 PM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Tom Felts
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
>> suffered from the application of too much horsepower!
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>>
>> --- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>>
>> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM
>>
>> Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
>> looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.
>>
>> http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm
>>
>> tom
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Nov 27 04:01:08 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 22:01:08 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
Message-ID: <649F95EF8D4D4110A732DF8F6CEE8379@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Eberhard

I am having the same problem removing the steering wheel in my car. It moves
about 5mm and then stops. It's as if there is a stepped spline that is
stopping it. I recall the same problem thirty years ago when it was first
removed. That was done by a friend who asked me to not watch when he used a
BIG hammer.

This time I have tried a rubber hammer, leverage etc. but no success. Next
is a steering wheel puller, however I have noticed two small holes in the
boss and one of these may lead to a detent ball arrangement.

Heavens knows what's original with the BN3/1.

Watch this space.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Eberhard Pietzsch
Sent: Sunday, 27 November 2011 6:02 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky

Hi,

I have a problem removing the steering wheel of my BN6.

I recently managed to unscrew the large nut of the steering
wheel. Washer as well as aluminium (or alloy?) ring with nose
for indicator could be taken off.

Now the steering should be free to be pulled off. But it is
sticky. I can only move it about 1 cm forwand and backward.
I have made some fotos of this:

http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t1.jpg
http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t2.jpg

I can freely move the wheel between these two positions but
I have no chance to pull it of. There seems to be another
protection against pulling but I can't find it. Can someone
of you help me?

Thanks,
Eberhard

-- 
Eberhard Pietzsch
Tuebingen

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 27 04:47:16 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 03:47:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <06822AA7887145D785A190A385A4D78E@Notebook>
Message-ID: <1322394436.42144.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Peter,

The SHO V6 with a Yamaha designed head will put out 220 bhp in stock form. 
Turboed and supercharged cars can put out 400 hp

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 11/27/11, Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote:

From: Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
To: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net, "Tom Felts"
<tomfelts at windstream.net>
Date: Sunday, November 27, 2011, 1:36 AM

Nice to see another V6! I've seen one other - a 100 with a Mitsubishi Magna
motor - in NZ. Pity they cover everything up with plastic mouldings on later
motors. There seem to be many parallels between this one and my car (which is
also on British V8) although this one seems better engineered. Anyone know
what the Ford V6 puts out? (The Holden is 165bhp)

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 V6 Holden (Buick)

-----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:43 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Tom Felts
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy

Tom,

Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
suffered from the application of too much horsepower!

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM

Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm

tom

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 27 06:12:15 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 05:12:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Rallye Spec Videos
Message-ID: <1322399535.30049.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Here's an interesting collection of Rallye spec car videos I stumbled across: 
http://wn.com/Austin_Healey_3000_rallying

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sun Nov 27 06:12:13 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 23:12:13 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <A3DBEBDD-AAF5-44EC-A11F-83EFFBC6C248@gmail.com>
References: <1322361833.67255.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<06822AA7887145D785A190A385A4D78E@Notebook>
	<A3DBEBDD-AAF5-44EC-A11F-83EFFBC6C248@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5C2EAA2E03FA4B38ABE082FDA6B14AD2@Notebook>

Hi Ron

Mine is a BN1 so would have had 90bhp standard. Also look at the before 
photos on the British V8 website & you'll se why it has a non-standard motor

Regards

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: F Ronald Rader
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 7:31 PM
To: Peter & Veronica
Cc: HealeyRick ; <healeys at autox.team.net> ; Tom Felts
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy

not being a smart ass but the BJ8 makes 150 stock and I believe over 200 HP 
can be achieved.
why swap for 15 HP??

ron  rader
Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 26, 2011, at 10:36 PM, "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> 
wrote:

> Nice to see another V6! I've seen one other - a 100 with a Mitsubishi 
> Magna motor - in NZ. Pity they cover everything up with plastic mouldings 
> on later motors. There seem to be many parallels between this one and my 
> car (which is also on British V8) although this one seems better 
> engineered. Anyone know what the Ford V6 puts out? (The Holden is 165bhp)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 V6 Holden (Buick)
>
> -----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:43 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Tom Felts
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
>
> Tom,
>
> Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
> suffered from the application of too much horsepower!
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>
> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM
>
> Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
> looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm
>
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com 

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Nov 27 06:47:50 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 8:47:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <5C2EAA2E03FA4B38ABE082FDA6B14AD2@Notebook>
Message-ID: <20111127084750.4CL3D.122542.root@pamxwww10-z01>

Had he not rescued this car from the muddy field, it would today be an even larger rust pile.  I'm amazed that he could do what he did considering the "before" condition of the car---not to mention that there was no engine with it.  He did a real service to the car.

tom

---- Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote: 

=============
Hi Ron

Mine is a BN1 so would have had 90bhp standard. Also look at the before 
photos on the British V8 website & you'll se why it has a non-standard motor

Regards

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: F Ronald Rader
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 7:31 PM
To: Peter & Veronica
Cc: HealeyRick ; <healeys at autox.team.net> ; Tom Felts
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy

not being a smart ass but the BJ8 makes 150 stock and I believe over 200 HP 
can be achieved.
why swap for 15 HP??

ron  rader
Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 26, 2011, at 10:36 PM, "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> 
wrote:

> Nice to see another V6! I've seen one other - a 100 with a Mitsubishi 
> Magna motor - in NZ. Pity they cover everything up with plastic mouldings 
> on later motors. There seem to be many parallels between this one and my 
> car (which is also on British V8) although this one seems better 
> engineered. Anyone know what the Ford V6 puts out? (The Holden is 165bhp)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 V6 Holden (Buick)
>
> -----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:43 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Tom Felts
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
>
> Tom,
>
> Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
> suffered from the application of too much horsepower!
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>
> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM
>
> Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
> looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm
>
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com 

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Nov 27 06:52:25 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 8:52:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
In-Reply-To: <20111127084750.4CL3D.122542.root@pamxwww10-z01>
Message-ID: <20111127085225.9J5E0.122555.root@pamxwww10-z01>

BTW, in that same British V8 website, there is a Bug Eye with a 4 cyl BMW engine in it if anyone is interested.  

---- Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote: 

=============
Had he not rescued this car from the muddy field, it would today be an even larger rust pile.  I'm amazed that he could do what he did considering the "before" condition of the car---not to mention that there was no engine with it.  He did a real service to the car.

tom

---- Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote: 

=============
Hi Ron

Mine is a BN1 so would have had 90bhp standard. Also look at the before 
photos on the British V8 website & you'll se why it has a non-standard motor

Regards

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: F Ronald Rader
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 7:31 PM
To: Peter & Veronica
Cc: HealeyRick ; <healeys at autox.team.net> ; Tom Felts
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy

not being a smart ass but the BJ8 makes 150 stock and I believe over 200 HP 
can be achieved.
why swap for 15 HP??

ron  rader
Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 26, 2011, at 10:36 PM, "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> 
wrote:

> Nice to see another V6! I've seen one other - a 100 with a Mitsubishi 
> Magna motor - in NZ. Pity they cover everything up with plastic mouldings 
> on later motors. There seem to be many parallels between this one and my 
> car (which is also on British V8) although this one seems better 
> engineered. Anyone know what the Ford V6 puts out? (The Holden is 165bhp)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 V6 Holden (Buick)
>
> -----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 12:43 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Tom Felts
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
>
> Tom,
>
> Norman's car is a very well executed "Nasty".  Never knew a Healey that
> suffered from the application of too much horsepower!
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sat, 11/26/11, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>
> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, November 26, 2011, 9:19 PM
>
> Was looking the net and stumbled across this 100---with a V6.  Fantastic
> looking car done first class.  Thought you would enjoy.
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/Other/NormanRest.htm
>
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Nov 27 09:37:50 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 11:37:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Main bearing cap felt seals
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20111126192930.01ffeb08@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111126192930.01ffeb08@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001ccad22$e7b25860$b7170920$@net>

Autofarm usually has these in stock.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: 2011-11-26 10:31
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Main bearing cap felt seals

I noticed the Moss catalog does not have the main bearing cap felt 
seals. I have three but I need four.

What are people using to replace the seals?

Thank you,
John
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 27 09:47:17 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 08:47:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] steering spacer
In-Reply-To: <4ED088E4.6030305@twcny.rr.com>
References: <4ED088E4.6030305@twcny.rr.com>
Message-ID: <31E157E1-39CD-4841-A491-511CF731E96E@sbcglobal.net>

Todd, We have these available used. You can contact me at the shop on Monday I
can double check my parts inventory.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On Nov 25, 2011, at 10:36 PM, Todd Taylor wrote:

> Does any on have an extra steering spacer,   part of one of mine broke off.
> The spacer that goes in the frame to hold the steering gear box or the idler
arm.
> gets pinched in there with bolts..
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov 27 10:34:50 2011
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 11:34:50 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
In-Reply-To: <000001ccad22$e7b25860$b7170920$@net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111126192930.01ffeb08@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<000001ccad22$e7b25860$b7170920$@net>
Message-ID: <000601ccad2a$dd811e00$98835a00$@net>

Folks,
 
A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has a light
coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most practical way
to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less expensive
process?
 
Thanks,
  Ron

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 27 10:56:43 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 09:56:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
Message-ID: <1322416603.14007.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

At Home Depot you should find "Phosphoric Prep and Etch" by Klean-Strip in the paint dept. and "Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover" by Zep in the cleaner and chemical isle over near the chainsaws.
Best
JK

On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 12:34 PM EST Ron Ray wrote:

>Folks,
> 
>A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has a light
>coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
>Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most practical way
>to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less expensive
>process?
> 
>Thanks,
>  Ron
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 27 11:12:49 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 10:12:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable flange
Message-ID: <COL121-W13FD615AE73ACE8D5299FFA4CD0@phx.gbl>

While nosing around in the boot, I realized the battery cable going through
the wall between the battery and the gas filler tube (BJ8) had a metal flange.
On my car, it is between the wall and the Armorcor  (not visible from the
boot). On Ebay Healeys for sale, half had it exposed. The Anderson /Moment
Restoration book shows it mounted as mine. Any comments on the correct way?
Rich Kahn

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Nov 27 11:15:53 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 10:15:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
In-Reply-To: <1322416603.14007.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1322416603.14007.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ED27E59.4060700@comcast.net>

Then apply a good gas tank sealant.  I've had the Bill Hirsch product in the BJ8 for over 20 years with nary a problem 
(on what passes for gasoline in California, to boot).

Bob



On 11/27/2011 9:56 AM, Jackson Krall wrote:
> At Home Depot you should find "Phosphoric Prep and Etch" by Klean-Strip in the paint dept. and "Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover" by Zep in the cleaner and chemical isle over near the chainsaws.
> Best
> JK
>
> On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 12:34 PM EST Ron Ray wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has a light
>> coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
>> Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most practical way
>> to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less expensive
>> process?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>   Ron
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sun Nov 27 11:17:06 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 10:17:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
In-Reply-To: <1322416603.14007.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1322416603.14007.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <02441D21-A07E-4299-9D49-F9AAFBDD4B73@cox.net>

Or a popular product called C.L.R. that you can use to clean/neutralize light
rust.

Wilko

On Nov 27, 2011, at 9:56 AM, Jackson Krall wrote:

> At Home Depot you should find "Phosphoric Prep and Etch" by Klean-Strip in
the paint dept. and "Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover" by Zep in the cleaner and
chemical isle over near the chainsaws.
> Best
> JK
>
> On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 12:34 PM EST Ron Ray wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has a
light
>> coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
>> Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most practical way
>> to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less expensive
>> process?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ron

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Nov 27 11:17:14 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 13:17:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable flange
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W13FD615AE73ACE8D5299FFA4CD0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W13FD615AE73ACE8D5299FFA4CD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000101ccad30$c9fc91b0$5df5b510$@net>

Rich, 

The metal sleeved bulkhead grommet assembly screws directly to the painted
bulkhead, then the cable itself protrudes through a small + cut in the
Armacord. You should not see the metal of the grommet when all is assembled.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: 2011-11-27 1:13
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable flange

While nosing around in the boot, I realized the battery cable going through
the wall between the battery and the gas filler tube (BJ8) had a metal
flange.
On my car, it is between the wall and the Armorcor  (not visible from the
boot). On Ebay Healeys for sale, half had it exposed. The Anderson /Moment
Restoration book shows it mounted as mine. Any comments on the correct way?
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Nov 27 11:25:46 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 11:25:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
In-Reply-To: <4ED27E59.4060700@comcast.net>
References: <1322416603.14007.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4ED27E59.4060700@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <75AE0D859B7C4853ACD05807000FD3DF@oscar>

Pretty sure I mentioned this a few days ago. A new product Star Tron. An
enzyme fuel restoration and stabilizer. It also breaks up water globules and
disperses them so it is burned along with the gasoline and ethanol.
 A small amount of surface rust is not an issue to worry about.
I wouldn't add metal prep acids to a tank, likely to cause seal and gasket
degradation issues (WAG)
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 11:16 AM
To: Jackson Krall
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust

Then apply a good gas tank sealant.  I've had the Bill Hirsch product in the
BJ8 for over 20 years with nary a problem 
(on what passes for gasoline in California, to boot).

Bob



On 11/27/2011 9:56 AM, Jackson Krall wrote:
> At Home Depot you should find "Phosphoric Prep and Etch" by Klean-Strip in
the paint dept. and "Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover" by Zep in the cleaner and
chemical isle over near the chainsaws.
> Best
> JK
>
> On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 12:34 PM EST Ron Ray wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has a
light
>> coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
>> Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most practical
way
>> to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less expensive
>> process?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>   Ron
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Sun Nov 27 12:14:49 2011
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 14:14:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
In-Reply-To: <4ED27E59.4060700@comcast.net>
References: <1322416603.14007.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4ED27E59.4060700@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4ED28C29.8040002@htcnet.org>

Bob makes a very good point.
   If there was rust in the tank, then what ever coating there was to 
prevent rusting,(tin or zinc), has been compromised and without 
treatment will rust in the future, particularly with our alcohol 
enhanced(:-( ) fuel.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 11/27/2011 1:15 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Then apply a good gas tank sealant.  I've had the Bill Hirsch product 
> in the BJ8 for over 20 years with nary a problem (on what passes for 
> gasoline in California, to boot).
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 11/27/2011 9:56 AM, Jackson Krall wrote:
>> At Home Depot you should find "Phosphoric Prep and Etch" by 
>> Klean-Strip in the paint dept. and "Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover" by 
>> Zep in the cleaner and chemical isle over near the chainsaws.
>> Best
>> JK
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 12:34 PM EST Ron Ray wrote:
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has 
>>> a light
>>> coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
>>> Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most 
>>> practical way
>>> to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less expensive
>>> process?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>   Ron
>>> _______________________________________________

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 27 12:15:36 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 11:15:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
Message-ID: <1322421336.76088.yint-ygo-j2me@web130210.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Dave, caution is good.
 The Zep product seems to be agri-based.
And indeed, what unsealed gas tank doesn't have some rust? 
I've been using the phosphoric product quite a bit and not had any unwanted degradation issues other than skin and clothing.
Best
JK

On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 1:25 PM EST David Porter wrote:

>Pretty sure I mentioned this a few days ago. A new product Star Tron. An
>enzyme fuel restoration and stabilizer. It also breaks up water globules and
>disperses them so it is burned along with the gasoline and ethanol.
> A small amount of surface rust is not an issue to worry about.
>I wouldn't add metal prep acids to a tank, likely to cause seal and gasket
>degradation issues (WAG)
>dave
>
>frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
>Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
>Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
>505-352-1378
>1954 BN2  1959 AN5
>Porter Custom Bicycles
>
>cars:
> www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
>gallery:
>http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
>GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
>Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 11:16 AM
>To: Jackson Krall
>Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
>
>Then apply a good gas tank sealant.  I've had the Bill Hirsch product in the
>BJ8 for over 20 years with nary a problem 
>(on what passes for gasoline in California, to boot).
>
>Bob
>
>
>
>On 11/27/2011 9:56 AM, Jackson Krall wrote:
>> At Home Depot you should find "Phosphoric Prep and Etch" by Klean-Strip in
>the paint dept. and "Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover" by Zep in the cleaner and
>chemical isle over near the chainsaws.
>> Best
>> JK
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 12:34 PM EST Ron Ray wrote:
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has a
>light
>>> coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
>>> Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most practical
>way
>>> to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less expensive
>>> process?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>   Ron
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>
>
>-- 
>*******************************************************************
>Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
>*******************************************************************
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Nov 27 13:52:07 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 15:52:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for wire wheels
Message-ID: <8CE7B5D8F9E42ED-950-6C088@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com>

Looking for some "roll around the garage" 15 inch wire wheels that I can use
for projects. When we made the move from Hawaii to PA all the nasty broken
spoke rusty wheels with bald tires got recycled. My priorities were all messed
up at the time as I did ship about 50 brake drums. Go figure!  Looking to
replace these essential bits that are most often in the way with something
usable. Hopefully near to western Pennsylvania so that I can pick up
personally.  My brother in law just delivered his BN4, that has been in his
garage for 25 years, without usable wheels and tires and I have to keep the
car mobile.  Let me know what you may have off line.  Thanks
healeyguy at aol.com
Aloha (old habits die hard)
Perry

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 27 14:46:25 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 13:46:25 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable flange
In-Reply-To: <000101ccad30$c9fc91b0$5df5b510$@net>
References: <COL121-W13FD615AE73ACE8D5299FFA4CD0@phx.gbl>,
	<000101ccad30$c9fc91b0$5df5b510$@net>
Message-ID: <COL121-W238E99C05E9B7F249FCC95A4CD0@phx.gbl>

Thank you. I wasn't looking for any more work.
Rich Kahn

> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Battery cable flange
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 13:17:14 -0500
>
> Rich,
>
> The metal sleeved bulkhead grommet assembly screws directly to the painted
> bulkhead, then the cable itself protrudes through a small + cut in the
> Armacord. You should not see the metal of the grommet when all is
assembled.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
> Sent: 2011-11-27 1:13
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable flange
>
> While nosing around in the boot, I realized the battery cable going through
> the wall between the battery and the gas filler tube (BJ8) had a metal
> flange.
> On my car, it is between the wall and the Armorcor  (not visible from the
> boot). On Ebay Healeys for sale, half had it exposed. The Anderson /Moment
> Restoration book shows it mounted as mine. Any comments on the correct way?
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Nov 27 14:54:39 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 16:54:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable flange
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W238E99C05E9B7F249FCC95A4CD0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W13FD615AE73ACE8D5299FFA4CD0@phx.gbl>,
	<000101ccad30$c9fc91b0$5df5b510$@net>
	<COL121-W238E99C05E9B7F249FCC95A4CD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <016001ccad4f$29b76c10$7d264430$@verizon.net>

We should all know by now that a little task always gives way to a bigger
one. I just started what I thought was a one day project and am now in the
second week and hope to finish when the snow gets off the ground in March.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 4:46 PM
To: richchrysler at quickclic.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Battery cable flange

Thank you. I wasn't looking for any more work.
Rich Kahn

> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Battery cable flange
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 13:17:14 -0500
>
> Rich,
>
> The metal sleeved bulkhead grommet assembly screws directly to the
> painted bulkhead, then the cable itself protrudes through a small +
> cut in the Armacord. You should not see the metal of the grommet when
> all is
assembled.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
> Sent: 2011-11-27 1:13
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable flange
>
> While nosing around in the boot, I realized the battery cable going
> through the wall between the battery and the gas filler tube (BJ8) had
> a metal flange.
> On my car, it is between the wall and the Armorcor  (not visible from
> the boot). On Ebay Healeys for sale, half had it exposed. The Anderson
> /Moment Restoration book shows it mounted as mine. Any comments on the
correct way?
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.n
> et
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 27 14:58:18 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 13:58:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune follow-up
Message-ID: <COL121-W52EE92AABA244C6F1FB57BA4CD0@phx.gbl>

The Gunson Colortune arrived yesterday and I tried it today. It was very
simple and I found the front carb to be too rich. I adjusted to bunsen blue
and it made a world of difference in the evenness of the exhaust sound and the
car ran quite well. I use to watch the plug color and use Unison or tube to
ear. This is better!  No removing the air cleaners and very fast adjustments.
Rich Kahn

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov 27 15:16:58 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 23:16:58 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson Colortune follow-up
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W52EE92AABA244C6F1FB57BA4CD0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W52EE92AABA244C6F1FB57BA4CD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4ED2B6DA.4040204@chello.nl>

Remember you can only set the mixture of the carbs. but you cannot 
balancing them using the Colortune.
Balancing can be done quite accurately by listening to the hiss of the 
carbs (should be even for both carbs) using a legth of tube or an open 
ended stethoscope. This works better than a Unison.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 27-11-2011 22:58, Richard Kahn schreef:
> The Gunson Colortune arrived yesterday and I tried it today. It was very
> simple and I found the front carb to be too rich. I adjusted to bunsen blue
> and it made a world of difference in the evenness of the exhaust sound and the
> car ran quite well. I use to watch the plug color and use Unison or tube to
> ear. This is better!  No removing the air cleaners and very fast adjustments.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4642 - datum van uitgifte: 11/27/11

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 27 16:40:09 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 23:40:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Main bearing cap felt seals
In-Reply-To: <000001ccad22$e7b25860$b7170920$@net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20111126192930.01ffeb08@pop.att.yahoo.com>,
	<000001ccad22$e7b25860$b7170920$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY168-W9867DC24EB7DF110FD2AEDC0CD0@phx.gbl>

Use some cotton string. Make a punch by flattening the point of a framing
nail. Feed the string into the hole using the nail as a punch to compact the
string. When the hole is full, put a dab of silicone on top.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 11:37:50 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main bearing cap felt seals
>
> Autofarm usually has these in stock.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of john spaur
> Sent: 2011-11-26 10:31
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Main bearing cap felt seals
>
> I noticed the Moss catalog does not have the main bearing cap felt
> seals. I have three but I need four.
>
> What are people using to replace the seals?
>
> Thank you,
> John
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From llennep at verizon.net  Sun Nov 27 19:51:35 2011
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 20:51:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
Message-ID: <17141761.605640.1322448695465.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

/eObyy5: Permission denied

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun Nov 27 21:15:50 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 04:15:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?sticky_steering_wheel?=
Message-ID: <20111128041550.28184.qmail@server278.com>

i have a non adjustable on the bn6 and when i had to take it off it took a few days of soaking with penetrant and then lots of tapping on the back with a dead blow hammer.  moved a millimeter or so each try.  took a while but i bested the recalcitrant bugger.   

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 27 22:12:36 2011
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 21:12:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] 4 cyl engine questions - follow up
Message-ID: <1322457156.22687.YahooMailClassic@web36705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all advice.  I installed the flex oil delivery pipe dry without
sealer/sealant. 
When I test ran the car 7 almost 8 years ago I used SL rated 20W50.  I still
have 1.5 qt left so I checked the bottles.   Also when I got the car I drained
about 11-12 qt of oil, I assume the previous owner had either the foresight of
over-filling it for storage or maybe squirted oil in the cylinders every
winter or so.
I'll treat the engine as a freshly rebuild engine and will follow the proper
engine startup and run-in process.  I have a pint bottle of ZDDP additive
ready.  Kees' method of filling the engine above the journals seems a simple
method to bring oil to the crankshaft bearings and then manually cranking till
oil start flowing to the rest of the engine.  I can prime the pump via the oil
pressure port if needed.  In the archives are also plenty of references of
just running the engine on the starter motor with spark plugs removed.
As I said the engine ran perfect with no oil consumption/blue smoke.  My
friend who helped me owned/worked on 20+ British cars including a 100-6 and
called it perfect.   The big unknown is how the engine was run-in to embed
cam/tappets.   I'll keep an eye on clearances and performance and at least I
am for-warned now about the potential premature wear.  Since we don't know the
history of the engine I hope for the best.
I'll keep you posted.
Bert

From stephen.j.cuss at btinternet.com  Mon Nov 28 08:11:50 2011
From: stephen.j.cuss at btinternet.com (STEPHEN CUSS)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 15:11:50 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Radiator cap
Message-ID: <1322493110.7625.YahooMailNeo@web87012.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hi,
 
Can someone help me find out what model of radiator cap should fit a
standard 100/4 radiator. The cap I have doeas not seem to push the spring down
as you would normally expect, Should the cap be long reach? Also what is the
pressure in Lbs before the spring gives as I know not all caps are the same.
 
Thanks in advance for any help with this matter.

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Nov 28 08:19:55 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 10:19:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <1322493110.7625.YahooMailNeo@web87012.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <1322493110.7625.YahooMailNeo@web87012.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE7BF8519626C6-103C-7E5D1@webmail-d048.sysops.aol.com>

If your radiator is original you will need a long reach cap. I am not sure
what the original cap rating was on a 100, but I would think something around
7 Lbs. would be appropriate.
Gary Hodson



-----Original Message-----
From: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss at btinternet.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 28, 2011 9:12 am
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Radiator cap


Hi,

an someone help me find out what model of radiator cap should fit a
tandard 100/4 radiator. The cap I have doeas not seem to push the spring down
s you would normally expect, Should the cap be long reach? Also what is the
ressure in Lbs before the spring gives as I know not all caps are the same.

hanks in advance for any help with this matter.
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 28 09:12:55 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 08:12:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
Message-ID: <B24EBE3D-2198-43CD-9D10-E9E8F52A514F@sbcglobal.net>

This is a very common problem on the non adjustable steering column  
on all the Healeys. I have tried several pullers and non have been  
able to remove the wheel.  What will work is to use a large cresent  
adjustable wrench, open it up so that it fits over the steering  
column then use a large hammer to knock the wheel off hitting the  
side of the crescent wrench NOT the steering wheel.

I have never seen why the wheel will not move but they are always  
that way.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 26, 2011, at 11:01 AM, Eberhard Pietzsch wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have a problem removing the steering wheel of my BN6.
>
> I recently managed to unscrew the large nut of the steering
> wheel. Washer as well as aluminium (or alloy?) ring with nose
> for indicator could be taken off.
>
> Now the steering should be free to be pulled off. But it is
> sticky. I can only move it about 1 cm forwand and backward.
> I have made some fotos of this:
>
> http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t1.jpg
> http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t2.jpg
>
> I can freely move the wheel between these two positions but
> I have no chance to pull it of. There seems to be another
> protection against pulling but I can't find it. Can someone
> of you help me?
>
> Thanks,
> Eberhard
>
> -- 
> Eberhard Pietzsch
> Tuebingen
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Nov 28 09:36:52 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 10:36:52 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] sticky steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <20111128041550.28184.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20111128041550.28184.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4ED3B8A4.7020908@justbrits.com>

As this "problem" is SOP om MGBs and Spridgets [and I have done a LOT 
of them<G>],
I thought a few 'experienced' hints would be inorder.

<< ....few days of soaking with penetrant and then lots of tapping on 
the back with a
dead bow hammer. >>

On of the more important 'steps' ! !  I strongly suggest that you 
"foam" your favourite
penetrate on the shaft.  By "foaming" I mean that with the little 
[usually] red straw, one
uses a VERY lite touch on the button and the stuff will almost dribble 
out.  BUT, the
liquid will just SLOWLY spread and flow down the shaft threads.  Now, 
here is a "Step
2";  using a LARGE socket, knock the wheel ON --- re-foam & let sit.

A MAJOR WARNING here:
         PUT THE NUT BACK ON !!  only needs to be 1.5 to 2.0 full 
turns ON.
The above mentioned groups WILL tell you that the wheel can [and 
frequently does]
  come loose/off all of a sudden and depending on YOUR force applied 
--- at a high
rate of speed [& headed right at you chin & chest <G>].

Back to removal.  Sitting in the seat with your knees firmly placed 
behind the wheel,
Apply [I prefer] large rubber mallet to wheel 'arms' while also 
applying 'off pressure'
to top of wheel.  Four (4) to six (6) whacks will do for THIS 'try'.  
Re-foam and go
have a brew<G> !!  After it, using said socket, GENTLY smack wheel 
back ON and
re-foam.  An other brew !  Then back to seat and give "removal" effort 
again.

<< ...moved a millimeter or so each try. >>

Yep.  See previous paragraph.  Just keep up the "off" & re-foam; "on" 
& re-foam;
"off" & re-foam; "on" & re-foam; and it WILL come off.

<< ...took a while but i bested the recalcitrant bugger. >>

Yep.  Just one of the "endearing" PITA things our LBCs "offer up" to 
us ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  A search of MGs & Spridgets List Archives will offer up the "nut" 
usage tales<G> !

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Nov 28 09:55:49 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 11:55:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <1322493110.7625.YahooMailNeo@web87012.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <1322493110.7625.YahooMailNeo@web87012.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001ccadee$94fef3e0$befcdba0$@net>

A Hundred uses a radiator cap with a 1" reach and a 7 lb. pressure rating.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of STEPHEN CUSS
Sent: 2011-11-28 10:12
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Radiator cap

Hi,
 
Can someone help me find out what model of radiator cap should fit a
standard 100/4 radiator. The cap I have doeas not seem to push the spring
down
as you would normally expect, Should the cap be long reach? Also what is the
pressure in Lbs before the spring gives as I know not all caps are the same.
 
Thanks in advance for any help with this matter.

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 28 10:57:04 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 09:57:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 throttle shaft part needed
Message-ID: <CACPMnYrrE5uj=Q_BM08PaW-JS_R_=jOFdCPiZ270AB_HdAXY2Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,
 I need some help with locating a part of getting a measured idea of it's
size.
In some photo copied pages I got a viwe of the Technical Service Parts LIst
page of parts that make up the choke/ throttle parts for the HD8 conversion
on my BT7.
 It is part # 46. It is a flat plate that seems to work as a throttle stop
against the manifold. It has one hole and I would gues to be no more than
2" in lenght. Any help onsourcing the part would be great.

-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Mon Nov 28 13:47:52 2011
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 21:47:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 throttle shaft part needed
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYrrE5uj=Q_BM08PaW-JS_R_=jOFdCPiZ270AB_HdAXY2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYrrE5uj=Q_BM08PaW-JS_R_=jOFdCPiZ270AB_HdAXY2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2DE23E5B-6BBC-4597-B723-869576A1BDA7@bornet.net>

Kilmartin does them.

Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com





28 nov 2011 kl. 18:57 skrev I Erbs:

> Hello,
> I need some help with locating a part of getting a measured idea of it's
> size.
> In some photo copied pages I got a viwe of the Technical Service Parts LIst
> page of parts that make up the choke/ throttle parts for the HD8 conversion
> on my BT7.
> It is part # 46. It is a flat plate that seems to work as a throttle stop
> against the manifold. It has one hole and I would gues to be no more than
> 2" in lenght. Any help onsourcing the part would be great.
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>   _______                                  _______
>     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>         (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Nov 28 15:02:27 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 06:02:27 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 throttle shaft part needed
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYrrE5uj=Q_BM08PaW-JS_R_=jOFdCPiZ270AB_HdAXY2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYrrE5uj=Q_BM08PaW-JS_R_=jOFdCPiZ270AB_HdAXY2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKDg6bgrOpcS9fn6_FHNHmVaAs0YzgdC70vLqWEv+74mQ@mail.gmail.com>

I know David Nock will have them in stock.

On 11/29/11, I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>  I need some help with locating a part of getting a measured idea of it's
> size.
> In some photo copied pages I got a viwe of the Technical Service Parts LIst
> page of parts that make up the choke/ throttle parts for the HD8 conversion
> on my BT7.
>  It is part # 46. It is a flat plate that seems to work as a throttle stop
> against the manifold. It has one hole and I would gues to be no more than
> 2" in lenght. Any help onsourcing the part would be great.
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From scvc70 at epix.net  Mon Nov 28 16:58:00 2011
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 18:58:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
	<B24EBE3D-2198-43CD-9D10-E9E8F52A514F@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <92A56E73345B4517BE6F039D7F612881@valuedea617bbe>

Wish we'd known this before we fought with mine -- would have made the job a 
lot quicker!  (It finally came off--while we weren't around--after sitting 
for days with a tightened wheel puller on it plus liberal squirts of various 
lubricants.)

Maybe a coating of wire-wheel anti-seize compound would be a good idea at 
reassembly?

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Eberhard Pietzsch" <mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky


> This is a very common problem on the non adjustable steering column
> on all the Healeys. I have tried several pullers and non have been
> able to remove the wheel.  What will work is to use a large cresent
> adjustable wrench, open it up so that it fits over the steering
> column then use a large hammer to knock the wheel off hitting the
> side of the crescent wrench NOT the steering wheel.
>
> I have never seen why the wheel will not move but they are always
> that way.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 28 17:18:40 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 19:18:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
In-Reply-To: <75AE0D859B7C4853ACD05807000FD3DF@oscar>
References: <1322416603.14007.yint-ygo-j2me@web130215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4ED27E59.4060700@comcast.net>
	<75AE0D859B7C4853ACD05807000FD3DF@oscar>
Message-ID: <1E680C3B-4CA4-44EC-ACCE-5D1B3699F0FB@yahoo.com>

Use Startron I'm all my piston engines, 2 and 4 stroke.

Greg
65BJ8

"You brought me here to fix this thing and people are key." Jobs

Sent from my iPhone.


On Nov 27, 2011, at 1:25 PM, "David Porter" <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
wrote:

> Pretty sure I mentioned this a few days ago. A new product Star Tron. An
> enzyme fuel restoration and stabilizer. It also breaks up water globules
and
> disperses them so it is burned along with the gasoline and ethanol.
> A small amount of surface rust is not an issue to worry about.
> I wouldn't add metal prep acids to a tank, likely to cause seal and gasket
> degradation issues (WAG)
> dave
>
> frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> cars:
> www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 11:16 AM
> To: Jackson Krall
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
>
> Then apply a good gas tank sealant.  I've had the Bill Hirsch product in
the
> BJ8 for over 20 years with nary a problem
> (on what passes for gasoline in California, to boot).
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 11/27/2011 9:56 AM, Jackson Krall wrote:
>> At Home Depot you should find "Phosphoric Prep and Etch" by Klean-Strip in
> the paint dept. and "Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover" by Zep in the cleaner and
> chemical isle over near the chainsaws.
>> Best
>> JK
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 12:34 PM EST Ron Ray wrote:
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has a
> light
>>> coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
>>> Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most practical
> way
>>> to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less expensive
>>> process?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>  Ron
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Nov 28 17:21:57 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 08:21:57 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Favorite adjustable spanner uses (Crescent Wrench)
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL3UjDJaQq0Mjdq7AWKH5jdCBaP8Q=E1dbC5L-JWfG_6A@mail.gmail.com>

All -

After seeing David Nock's suggestion to use an adjustable spanner as
a mallet-lever to get the steering wheel off, I thought I'd list some of my
favorite healey uses for the adjustable tool:

1) Sheet metal shape adjuster - This is the one my dad taught me (he made
B-24s in LaJolla before he signed up to fly in the Pacific).  Usually if
someone has a sheet metal edge they want to bend a bit this way or that,
they pick up a pair of pliers and damage the metal.  My dad showed me that
if you put an adjustable spanner over the edge of the sheet metal, then
close up the jaws, you can use the spanner to adjust the shape of the
sheetmetal without damaging the metal surface.  In fact, because of the
secure hold, it allows you very fine adjustment - with just a bit of care
this can be used on chrome trim surfaces and other finished surfaces.

2) Octagonal Hub nut remover - Yes, almost every nut I've ever seen has
been chipped away with a screwdriver to get the thing undone -
Neanderthals!  If you don't have an octagonal hub socket, there's a great
substitute.  Get a large adjustable spanner (with teeth wide enough to span
the nut) and set the spanner on the nut at a 90 deg angle to the nut's
rotation.  Then get a smaller adjustable spanner and adjust the teeth to
fit over the handle flat of the large spanner... then twist!  voila!  This
works VERY well.

I am sure some of you have other off-spec uses for the adjustable
spanner... would love to hear them.

Cheers,

Alan

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Nov 28 17:43:14 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 17:43:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <92A56E73345B4517BE6F039D7F612881@valuedea617bbe>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de><B24EBE3D-2198-43CD-9D10-E9E8F52A514F@sbcglobal.net>
	<92A56E73345B4517BE6F039D7F612881@valuedea617bbe>
Message-ID: <F86BADDFC1CD461BA798FF339A07FB60@oscar>

..all those years of pushing the car or braking and bracing yourself with
the steering wheel have pushed a nice ridge ring into the column splines
despite the big nut - that pretty much only keeps the SW from coming off the
shaft.
 So the problem (above) can only be overcome with a bit of finessed brute
strength, if that makes any sense.
 While gently rocking fore and aft, all 360 degrees (to push the splines
down again) and pulling (after a good dose of penetrant) with a fair amount
of force they will release. 
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 4:58 PM
To: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky

Wish we'd known this before we fought with mine -- would have made the job a

lot quicker!  (It finally came off--while we weren't around--after sitting 
for days with a tightened wheel puller on it plus liberal squirts of various

lubricants.)

Maybe a coating of wire-wheel anti-seize compound would be a good idea at 
reassembly?

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Eberhard Pietzsch" <mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stearing wheel sticky


> This is a very common problem on the non adjustable steering column
> on all the Healeys. I have tried several pullers and non have been
> able to remove the wheel.  What will work is to use a large cresent
> adjustable wrench, open it up so that it fits over the steering
> column then use a large hammer to knock the wheel off hitting the
> side of the crescent wrench NOT the steering wheel.
>
> I have never seen why the wheel will not move but they are always
> that way.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 28 17:50:40 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 16:50:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 throttle shaft part needed
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKDg6bgrOpcS9fn6_FHNHmVaAs0YzgdC70vLqWEv+74mQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYrrE5uj=Q_BM08PaW-JS_R_=jOFdCPiZ270AB_HdAXY2Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkKDg6bgrOpcS9fn6_FHNHmVaAs0YzgdC70vLqWEv+74mQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYqY4-sHq8eESikF1NGGcMwC91_x=0gfA=piHiLkae2xPg@mail.gmail.com>

I sent an email to the Nocks,'thanks to all who replied

On Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 2:02 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> I know David Nock will have them in stock.
>
> On 11/29/11, I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Hello,
> >  I need some help with locating a part of getting a measured idea of it's
> > size.
> > In some photo copied pages I got a viwe of the Technical Service Parts
> LIst
> > page of parts that make up the choke/ throttle parts for the HD8
> conversion
> > on my BT7.
> >  It is part # 46. It is a flat plate that seems to work as a throttle
> stop
> > against the manifold. It has one hole and I would gues to be no more than
> > 2" in lenght. Any help onsourcing the part would be great.
> >
> > --
> > Ira Erbs
> > Portland, OR
> >    _______                                  _______
> >      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> >          (_________________________)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 28 20:20:38 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 19:20:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Parts For Sale List
Message-ID: <1322536838.14499.YahooMailClassic@web180113.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Here are a few items that I will be selling from a 1960
3000 roadster.    Location is IN. 46615 for shipping ideas.
 
4- rear seats     $50.00 for all 4
 
1- Complete Heater box, light
surface rust    $40.00
 
1- Front Bumper for rechroming     $40.00
 
1- Rear Bumper for rechroming      $40.00
 
1- Aluminum Cockpit Trim set         $60.00
 
E-pics are available if you are seriously interested in any of these above
items.
 
I also have some original vinyl interior pieces,  carpet and various
small old parts that I just can't throw away if anyone wants them for the
cost of shipping.   If really interested I can pull out the boxes and send
more detail on what these parts are.   Pistons, camshaft, oil pump, water
pump,
Time to clear it out.  
 
Mark,   South Bend, IN. 46615
 
 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Nov 29 00:18:44 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 08:18:44 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Favorite adjustable spanner uses (Crescent  Wrench)
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkL3UjDJaQq0Mjdq7AWKH5jdCBaP8Q=E1dbC5L-JWfG_6A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkL3UjDJaQq0Mjdq7AWKH5jdCBaP8Q=E1dbC5L-JWfG_6A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ED48754.1070808@chello.nl>

If at all possible I avoid the use of an adjustable spanner (Bahco). Get 
a proper fitting spanner. I only use it in emergencies when nothing else 
is at hand, e.g. at the road side. I have 4 different sizes.
However the sheet metal work with it is a good tip. I have used it that 
way many a time.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 29-11-2011 1:21, Alan Seigrist schreef:
> All -
>
> After seeing David Nock's suggestion to use an adjustable spanner as
> a mallet-lever to get the steering wheel off, I thought I'd list some of my
> favorite healey uses for the adjustable tool:
>
> 1) Sheet metal shape adjuster - This is the one my dad taught me (he made
> B-24s in LaJolla before he signed up to fly in the Pacific).  Usually if
> someone has a sheet metal edge they want to bend a bit this way or that,
> they pick up a pair of pliers and damage the metal.  My dad showed me that
> if you put an adjustable spanner over the edge of the sheet metal, then
> close up the jaws, you can use the spanner to adjust the shape of the
> sheetmetal without damaging the metal surface.  In fact, because of the
> secure hold, it allows you very fine adjustment - with just a bit of care
> this can be used on chrome trim surfaces and other finished surfaces.
>
> 2) Octagonal Hub nut remover - Yes, almost every nut I've ever seen has
> been chipped away with a screwdriver to get the thing undone -
> Neanderthals!  If you don't have an octagonal hub socket, there's a great
> substitute.  Get a large adjustable spanner (with teeth wide enough to span
> the nut) and set the spanner on the nut at a 90 deg angle to the nut's
> rotation.  Then get a smaller adjustable spanner and adjust the teeth to
> fit over the handle flat of the large spanner... then twist!  voila!  This
> works VERY well.
>
> I am sure some of you have other off-spec uses for the adjustable
> spanner... would love to hear them.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1873 / Virusdatabase: 2101/4644 - datum van uitgifte: 11/28/11

From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Tue Nov 29 02:23:27 2011
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 19:23:27 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
Message-ID: <BBC5B1D6675E4CC18F23320246BD13A5@KeithDell>

Hi List
            As any one on the list used or heard any reports on hard tops made
and supplied by Smooth Line
            Regards Keith

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Tue Nov 29 07:21:10 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 08:21:10 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
In-Reply-To: <BBC5B1D6675E4CC18F23320246BD13A5@KeithDell>
References: <BBC5B1D6675E4CC18F23320246BD13A5@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <CAKBTmU7FLG8E2=TVhKBCy4dBnf5pVVZ=xDpCCoqMYUbfDTxCGw@mail.gmail.com>

they bear no resemblence to the factory hardtop. try to find either a
restored or restorable factory unit.
cheers,

On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:

> Hi List
>            As any one on the list used or heard any reports on hard tops
> made
> and supplied by Smooth Line
>            Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 29 08:57:55 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 07:57:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
In-Reply-To: <CAKBTmU7FLG8E2=TVhKBCy4dBnf5pVVZ=xDpCCoqMYUbfDTxCGw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1322582275.5340.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

How ever there would be a significant price difference between the two.   It
really depends if
your looking for originality and willing to pay the price or if your just
looking for the comfort and sound proofing of a hardtop.  They both accomplish
the same thing except for the originality
factor.  And of course the resale factor would be higher with an origianl
top involved than an after market unit.
 
Mark 

--- On Tue, 11/29/11, jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com> wrote:


From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
To: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
Cc: "<healeys at Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 29, 2011, 9:21 AM


they bear no resemblence to the factory hardtop. try to find either a
restored or restorable factory unit.
cheers,

On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Keith Bailey
<keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:

> Hi List
>            As any one on the list used or heard any reports on hard tops
> made
> and supplied by Smooth Line
>            Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



--
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From cwbrown39 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 29 09:04:56 2011
From: cwbrown39 at gmail.com (Carl Brown)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:04:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
In-Reply-To: <1322582275.5340.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1322582275.5340.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5EE2D5AB160C4B02AAF5F3CB0FF2A83F@CompacPC>

I have a Parish Hardtop which was originally made back in the time and then 
sold to Smoothline; therefore, it represents a period piece for the car 
although not the factory original.
Carl Brown

-----Original Message----- 
From: mark lapierre
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 10:57 AM
To: Keith Bailey ; jerry wall
Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops

How ever there would be a significant price difference between the two.   It
really depends if
your looking for originality and willing to pay the price or if your just
looking for the comfort and sound proofing of a hardtop.  They both 
accomplish
the same thing except for the originality
factor.  And of course the resale factor would be higher with an origianl
top involved than an after market unit.

Mark

--- On Tue, 11/29/11, jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com> wrote:


From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
To: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
Cc: "<healeys at Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 29, 2011, 9:21 AM


they bear no resemblence to the factory hardtop. try to find either a
restored or restorable factory unit.
cheers,

On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Keith Bailey
<keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:

> Hi List
>            As any one on the list used or heard any reports on hard tops
> made
> and supplied by Smooth Line
>            Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



--
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cwbrown39 at gmail.com 

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Nov 29 09:35:45 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 16:35:45 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Red wire to rear lights
Message-ID: <002201ccaeb4$f1d6e340$d584a9c0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Hi,

Help from the Gurus, Great & Small please.....

I am thinking about putting in a fuse to the red wire that powers the rear
lights. (Whilst I install an additional LED strip)

Looking at the wiring diagram relevant to my MkII BT7, I see that there is a
connector where 1) the wire from the light switch on the dash, 2) the wires
from the front lights & 3) the wire from the rear lights all connect.

It seems that between that connector and wire 3) might be a good place for
the fuse if I want to have the fuse in my "extra" fuses block.

Where is this connector?

Thanks,

Simon

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Nov 29 09:44:23 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 16:44:23 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3rd brake light
Message-ID: <002701ccaeb6$267a1e40$736e5ac0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

With reference to my previous email re. the connector on the red wire
lighting circuit, do you guys go for a third brake light or a third side
light option? I'd contemplated the latter option but see that most of the
material available refers to the former ie that most additional LED strips
are linked to the brake lights....

Simon

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Nov 29 10:02:58 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 12:02:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 3rd brake light
In-Reply-To: <002701ccaeb6$267a1e40$736e5ac0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <002701ccaeb6$267a1e40$736e5ac0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <033501ccaeb8$bf7800b0$3e680210$@verizon.net>

I went with the third brake light mounted on the rear shroud after a
18-wheeler got a little too close behind me. It is a safety issue.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 11:44 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 3rd brake light

With reference to my previous email re. the connector on the red wire
lighting circuit, do you guys go for a third brake light or a third side
light option? I'd contemplated the latter option but see that most of the
material available refers to the former ie that most additional LED strips
are linked to the brake lights....

Simon

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 29 10:25:14 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 09:25:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Red wire to rear lights
In-Reply-To: <002201ccaeb4$f1d6e340$d584a9c0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <002201ccaeb4$f1d6e340$d584a9c0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <2311F43B-0366-49C8-9574-E600765EDB7F@sbcglobal.net>

Go behind the dash and install a inline fuse on the red wire at the  
headlight switch. This will fuse the tail, dash and front marker lights.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 29, 2011, at 8:35 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Help from the Gurus, Great & Small please.....
>
> I am thinking about putting in a fuse to the red wire that powers  
> the rear
> lights. (Whilst I install an additional LED strip)
>
> Looking at the wiring diagram relevant to my MkII BT7, I see that  
> there is a
> connector where 1) the wire from the light switch on the dash, 2)  
> the wires
> from the front lights & 3) the wire from the rear lights all connect.
>
> It seems that between that connector and wire 3) might be a good  
> place for
> the fuse if I want to have the fuse in my "extra" fuses block.
>
> Where is this connector?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 29 10:32:13 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 09:32:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
Message-ID: <1322587933.90610.yint-ygo-j2me@web130206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 12:30 PM EST Jackson Krall wrote:

>As Carl states, Parish has become Smoothline. I still have my Parish available for BN7 if anyone is interested.
>Best
>JK
>
>On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 11:04 AM EST Carl Brown wrote:
>
>>I have a Parish Hardtop which was originally made back in the time and then sold to Smoothline; therefore, it represents a period piece for the car although not the factory original.
>>Carl Brown
>>
>>-----Original Message----- From: mark lapierre
>>Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 10:57 AM
>>To: Keith Bailey ; jerry wall
>>Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
>>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
>>
>>How ever there would be a significant price difference between the two.   It
>>really depends if
>>your looking for originality and willing to pay the price or if your just
>>looking for the comfort and sound proofing of a hardtop.  They both accomplish
>>the same thing except for the originality
>>factor.  And of course the resale factor would be higher with an origianl
>>top involved than an after market unit.
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>--- On Tue, 11/29/11, jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
>>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
>>To: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
>>Cc: "<healeys at Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>Date: Tuesday, November 29, 2011, 9:21 AM
>>
>>
>>they bear no resemblence to the factory hardtop. try to find either a
>>restored or restorable factory unit.
>>cheers,
>>
>>On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Keith Bailey
>><keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:
>>
>>> Hi List
>>>            As any one on the list used or heard any reports on hard tops
>>> made
>>> and supplied by Smooth Line
>>>            Regards Keith
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>jerry wall  BN6
>>rowlett, tx
>>_______________________________________________
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>_______________________________________________
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cwbrown39 at gmail.com _______________________________________________
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Tue Nov 29 11:09:18 2011
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 13:09:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
In-Reply-To: <5EE2D5AB160C4B02AAF5F3CB0FF2A83F@CompacPC>
References: <1322582275.5340.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<5EE2D5AB160C4B02AAF5F3CB0FF2A83F@CompacPC>
Message-ID: <8CE7CD9259F4552-1490-B40BA@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com>

I too have a Parish Plastics Hardtop and am very satisfied with it.  It allows
the car to retain the convertible top in the folded position with no need to
remove it from the car.  I installed it approximately in 1970.


Larry
'67 BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Brown <cwbrown39 at gmail.com>
To: mark lapierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; Keith Bailey
<keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>; jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 29, 2011 6:05 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops


I have a Parish Hardtop which was originally made back in the time and then
sold to Smoothline; therefore, it represents a period piece for the car
although not the factory original.
Carl Brown

-----Original Message-----
From: mark lapierre
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 10:57 AM
To: Keith Bailey ; jerry wall
Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops

How ever there would be a significant price difference between the two.   It
really depends if
your looking for originality and willing to pay the price or if your just
looking for the comfort and sound proofing of a hardtop.  They both
accomplish
the same thing except for the originality
factor.  And of course the resale factor would be higher with an origianl
top involved than an after market unit.

Mark

--- On Tue, 11/29/11, jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com> wrote:


From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
To: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
Cc: "<healeys at Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 29, 2011, 9:21 AM


they bear no resemblence to the factory hardtop. try to find either a
restored or restorable factory unit.
cheers,

On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Keith Bailey
<keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:

> Hi List
>            As any one on the list used or heard any reports on hard tops
> made
> and supplied by Smooth Line
>            Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



--
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Nov 29 11:52:57 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 13:52:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
In-Reply-To: <8CE7CD9259F4552-1490-B40BA@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1322582275.5340.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><5EE2D5AB160C4B02AAF5F3CB0FF2A83F@CompacPC>
	<8CE7CD9259F4552-1490-B40BA@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE7CDF3E49AD4D-281C-E5621@webmail-d151.sysops.aol.com>

I have an original roadster hardtop for a 4 seater for sale. It is in
restorable condition, but is missing some parts such as the headliner frame &
the front latches. Reasonable price. I would prefer to not have to crate it
up. If interested, contact me off list. Photos available.
Gary Hodson



-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k at aim.com>
To: cwbrown39 <cwbrown39 at gmail.com>; lapierrem <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>;
keithbailey5 <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>; jwbn6hrdtp <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 29, 2011 12:10 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops


I too have a Parish Plastics Hardtop and am very satisfied with it.  It
allows
he car to retain the convertible top in the folded position with no need to
emove it from the car.  I installed it approximately in 1970.

arry
67 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
rom: Carl Brown <cwbrown39 at gmail.com>
o: mark lapierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; Keith Bailey
keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>; jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
c: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
ent: Tue, Nov 29, 2011 6:05 am
ubject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops

 have a Parish Hardtop which was originally made back in the time and then
old to Smoothline; therefore, it represents a period piece for the car
lthough not the factory original.
arl Brown
-----Original Message-----
rom: mark lapierre
ent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 10:57 AM
o: Keith Bailey ; jerry wall
c: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
ubject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
How ever there would be a significant price difference between the two.   It
eally depends if
our looking for originality and willing to pay the price or if your just
ooking for the comfort and sound proofing of a hardtop.  They both
ccomplish
he same thing except for the originality
actor.  And of course the resale factor would be higher with an origianl
op involved than an after market unit.
Mark
--- On Tue, 11/29/11, jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com> wrote:

rom: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
ubject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
o: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
c: "<healeys at Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
ate: Tuesday, November 29, 2011, 9:21 AM

hey bear no resemblence to the factory hardtop. try to find either a
estored or restorable factory unit.
heers,
On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Keith Bailey
keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:
> Hi List
            As any one on the list used or heard any reports on hard tops
 made
 and supplied by Smooth Line
            Regards Keith
 _______________________________________________
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe/Manage:
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com


--
erry wall  BN6
owlett, tx
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Nov 29 11:54:55 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 13:54:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] hardtop
Message-ID: <8CE7CDF84C5723E-281C-E56F1@webmail-d151.sysops.aol.com>

Sorry, if this is a duplicate.
I have an original roadster hardtop for a 4 seater for sale. It is in
restorable condition, but is missing some parts such as the headliner frame &
the front latches. Reasonable price. I would prefer to not have to crate it
up. If interested, contact me off list. Photos available.
Gary Hodson

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 29 12:30:38 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:30:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
In-Reply-To: <8CE7CD9259F4552-1490-B40BA@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1322582275.5340.YahooMailClassic@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<5EE2D5AB160C4B02AAF5F3CB0FF2A83F@CompacPC>
	<8CE7CD9259F4552-1490-B40BA@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C76329A2-E523-4F1D-81E2-BF51D3D393E4@sbcglobal.net>

We install a Lucas  35 amp fuse which is a 17.5 amp continues fuse  
that blows at 35 amps.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 29, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Larry Wendland wrote:

> I too have a Parish Plastics Hardtop and am very satisfied with  
> it.  It allows
> the car to retain the convertible top in the folded position with  
> no need to
> remove it from the car.  I installed it approximately in 1970.
>
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carl Brown <cwbrown39 at gmail.com>
> To: mark lapierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; Keith Bailey
> <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>; jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Nov 29, 2011 6:05 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
>
>
> I have a Parish Hardtop which was originally made back in the time  
> and then
> sold to Smoothline; therefore, it represents a period piece for the  
> car
> although not the factory original.
> Carl Brown
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mark lapierre
> Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 10:57 AM
> To: Keith Bailey ; jerry wall
> Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
>
> How ever there would be a significant price difference between the  
> two.   It
> really depends if
> your looking for originality and willing to pay the price or if  
> your just
> looking for the comfort and sound proofing of a hardtop.  They both
> accomplish
> the same thing except for the originality
> factor.  And of course the resale factor would be higher with an  
> origianl
> top involved than an after market unit.
>
> Mark
>
> --- On Tue, 11/29/11, jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
> To: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
> Cc: "<healeys at Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, November 29, 2011, 9:21 AM
>
>
> they bear no resemblence to the factory hardtop. try to find either a
> restored or restorable factory unit.
> cheers,
>
> On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Keith Bailey
> <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:
>
>> Hi List
>>            As any one on the list used or heard any reports on  
>> hard tops
>> made
>> and supplied by Smooth Line
>>            Regards Keith
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>>
>
>
>
> --
> jerry wall  BN6
> rowlett, tx
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Nov 29 12:41:33 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 14:41:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 3rd brake light
In-Reply-To: <002701ccaeb6$267a1e40$736e5ac0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <002701ccaeb6$267a1e40$736e5ac0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4ED5356D.6010707@comcast.net>

Simon,
Why not retain the original look and just convert your reflectors to 
come on with the brakes and turn signals?
You can probably find every thing that you need in the UK.
Charlie

On 11/29/2011 11:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
> With reference to my previous email re. the connector on the red wire
> lighting circuit, do you guys go for a third brake light or a third side
> light option? I'd contemplated the latter option but see that most of the
> material available refers to the former ie that most additional LED strips
> are linked to the brake lights....
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of A-H Reflector conversion.doc]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 29 13:47:06 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 12:47:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
In-Reply-To: <C76329A2-E523-4F1D-81E2-BF51D3D393E4@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1322599626.411.YahooMailClassic@web180102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I would think that all Healey hardtops should have a 35 amp fuse installed
just in case Lucas
decides to flare up.
 
Mark

--- On Tue, 11/29/11, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops
To: "Larry Wendland" <bighealey3k at aim.com>
Cc: cwbrown39 at gmail.com, lapierrem at sbcglobal.net, keithbailey5 at bigpond.com,
jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, November 29, 2011, 2:30 PM



We install a Lucas  35 amp fuse which is a 17.5 amp continues fuse that blows
at 35 amps. 









David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767


www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.


On Nov 29, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Larry Wendland wrote:


I too have a Parish Plastics Hardtop and am very satisfied with it.  It
allows
the car to retain the convertible top in the folded position with no need to
remove it from the car.  I installed it approximately in 1970.




Larry
'67 BJ8






-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Brown <cwbrown39 at gmail.com>
To: mark lapierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; Keith Bailey
<keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>; jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 29, 2011 6:05 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard Tops




I have a Parish Hardtop which was originally made back in the time and then
sold to Smoothline; therefore, it represents a period piece for the car
although not the factory original.
Carl Brown

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Nov 29 14:42:31 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 16:42:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank light rust
Message-ID: <73f93af7.11a4f.133f1477524.Webtop.45@charter.net>

Beware the fuel filter inside the tank (Bugeyes or maybe just Migets and 
later tanks).  It will get clogged from the sealant.  Remove it and use 
an external filter.Here is a good way to clean these tanks.  Fill with 
water and but on a BBQ for 4 to 6 hours and boil out the varnish.  I did 
this with a Midget tank and no sealant was required.  What I thought was 
rust was only varnish.  I had to brak off ther pick-up filter in the 
tank using a long screwdriver through the sending unit hole.


On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 at 10:15 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> Then apply a good gas tank sealant.  I've had the Bill Hirsch product 
> in the BJ8 for over 20 years with nary a problem (on what passes for 
> gasoline in California, to boot).
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 11/27/2011 9:56 AM, Jackson Krall wrote:
>> At Home Depot you should find "Phosphoric Prep and Etch" by 
>> Klean-Strip in the paint dept. and "Metal Prep Dip Rust Remover" by 
>> Zep in the cleaner and chemical isle over near the chainsaws.
>> Best
>> JK
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 12:34 PM EST Ron Ray wrote:
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> A friend has his relative new Bugeye fuel tank repaired and now has 
>>> a light
>>> coat of "flash" rust on the inside.
>>> Is the Moss fuel tank cleaner (part number 220-620) the most 
>>> practical way
>>> to remove this light rust coating, or is there a simpler less 
>>> expensive
>>> process?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>   Ron
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>
>
> -- 
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 29 15:34:43 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 14:34:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
Message-ID: <COL121-W27C680B62851FFB68BBE6FA4B30@phx.gbl>

Is the top foam inside the BJ8 door available with out changing the vinyl? It
is the piece next to the window glass.  Mine is getting "crunchy" but looks
fine. I cannot find it in the Moss book so I don't know what to call it.
Thanks
Rich Kahn

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 29 15:50:35 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 14:50:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W27C680B62851FFB68BBE6FA4B30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W27C680B62851FFB68BBE6FA4B30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <26179E47-59A2-418F-8733-B4237AAC9FE9@sbcglobal.net>

That is a water barrier to stop moisture getting to the wooden door  
panel. You could use a piece of self adhesive plastic and stick it to  
the door prior to installing the door panel.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 29, 2011, at 2:34 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:

> Is the top foam inside the BJ8 door available with out changing the  
> vinyl? It
> is the piece next to the window glass.  Mine is getting "crunchy"  
> but looks
> fine. I cannot find it in the Moss book so I don't know what to  
> call it.
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Nov 29 16:16:56 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 18:16:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W27C680B62851FFB68BBE6FA4B30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W27C680B62851FFB68BBE6FA4B30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000601ccaeec$fd498330$f7dc8990$@net>

Rich Kahn asked:


Is the top foam inside the BJ8 door available with out changing the vinyl?
It
is the piece next to the window glass.  Mine is getting "crunchy" but looks
fine. I cannot find it in the Moss book so I don't know what to call it.
Thanks
Rich Kahn

I believe you are referring to the inboard door capping piece that is
composed of a molded foam rubber of a triangular cross section that is
bonded to its steel mounting strip and is covered by black vinyl. Yes, this
foam can gradually get brittle as it begins to break down with age,
especially the driver's side. 
Replacement assemblies are available but the only ones I've seen have a half
round section which is not correct for BJ8's. I don't know of the
availability of just the correct foam unless you can find one from a parted
out BJ8. The original foams are not handed so possibly a good one could be
retrieved from the passenger's side of a parts car.

Rich

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Nov 29 16:53:44 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 18:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
In-Reply-To: <26179E47-59A2-418F-8733-B4237AAC9FE9@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <20111129185345.RR8A2.267877.root@pamxwww06-z01>

That brings up a concern I have.  In the 32 years I have owned my BJ8, the door panels have always ended up warping shortly after installation.  I put a (well sealed) thick plastic sheet between it and the inner door each time.

I've alway wondered how a panel made of lexan or plexiglass would work----warp or not?

Anyone else have the warping problem and if so, how did you solve it?

Thanks
tom

---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 

=============
That is a water barrier to stop moisture getting to the wooden door  
panel. You could use a piece of self adhesive plastic and stick it to  
the door prior to installing the door panel.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 29, 2011, at 2:34 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:

> Is the top foam inside the BJ8 door available with out changing the  
> vinyl? It
> is the piece next to the window glass.  Mine is getting "crunchy"  
> but looks
> fine. I cannot find it in the Moss book so I don't know what to  
> call it.
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Nov 29 16:56:17 2011
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 18:56:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
In-Reply-To: <000601ccaeec$fd498330$f7dc8990$@net>
Message-ID: <20111129185617.5934I.267906.root@pamxwww06-z01>

I've recovered these, but never found any of the foam pieces.  Maybe a good re-covering will be all he needs to do (?)




---- Rich Chrysler <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote: 

=============
Rich Kahn asked:


Is the top foam inside the BJ8 door available with out changing the vinyl?
It
is the piece next to the window glass.  Mine is getting "crunchy" but looks
fine. I cannot find it in the Moss book so I don't know what to call it.
Thanks
Rich Kahn

I believe you are referring to the inboard door capping piece that is
composed of a molded foam rubber of a triangular cross section that is
bonded to its steel mounting strip and is covered by black vinyl. Yes, this
foam can gradually get brittle as it begins to break down with age,
especially the driver's side. 
Replacement assemblies are available but the only ones I've seen have a half
round section which is not correct for BJ8's. I don't know of the
availability of just the correct foam unless you can find one from a parted
out BJ8. The original foams are not handed so possibly a good one could be
retrieved from the passenger's side of a parts car.

Rich
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From healey100m at gmail.com  Tue Nov 29 17:36:22 2011
From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 17:36:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
In-Reply-To: <20111129185617.5934I.267906.root@pamxwww06-z01>
References: <20111129185617.5934I.267906.root@pamxwww06-z01>
Message-ID: <4EFB521B-AB25-4D32-A01E-37F1B33BA3A2@gmail.com>

I replaced mine with a half round piece of dense foam. While not correct
originality, it does provide me at least an inch more shoulder room & is much
more comfortable to lean against on extended tours. Interior seems much
roomier if you are broad shouldered.

Randy



On Nov 29, 2011, at 4:56 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> I've recovered these, but never found any of the foam pieces.  Maybe a good
re-covering will be all he needs to do (?)
>
>
>
>
> ---- Rich Chrysler <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> Rich Kahn asked:
>
>
> Is the top foam inside the BJ8 door available with out changing the vinyl?
> It
> is the piece next to the window glass.  Mine is getting "crunchy" but looks
> fine. I cannot find it in the Moss book so I don't know what to call it.
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
>
> I believe you are referring to the inboard door capping piece that is
> composed of a molded foam rubber of a triangular cross section that is
> bonded to its steel mounting strip and is covered by black vinyl. Yes, this
> foam can gradually get brittle as it begins to break down with age,
> especially the driver's side.
> Replacement assemblies are available but the only ones I've seen have a
half
> round section which is not correct for BJ8's. I don't know of the
> availability of just the correct foam unless you can find one from a parted
> out BJ8. The original foams are not handed so possibly a good one could be
> retrieved from the passenger's side of a parts car.
>
> Rich
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Tue Nov 29 18:12:36 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 17:12:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W27C680B62851FFB68BBE6FA4B30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W27C680B62851FFB68BBE6FA4B30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00f601ccaefd$259f5660$70de0320$@ca>

I believe that Heritage Interiors sell them.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 2:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement

Is the top foam inside the BJ8 door available with out changing the vinyl?
It
is the piece next to the window glass.  Mine is getting "crunchy" but looks
fine. I cannot find it in the Moss book so I don't know what to call it.
Thanks
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Nov 29 18:30:55 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 19:30:55 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Hard Tops
In-Reply-To: <BBC5B1D6675E4CC18F23320246BD13A5@KeithDell>
References: <BBC5B1D6675E4CC18F23320246BD13A5@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <4ED5874F.1060103@justbrits.com>

On 11/29/2011 3:23 AM, Keith Bailey wrote:
> As any one on the list used or heard any reports on hard tops made
> and supplied by Smooth Line
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Sure, Keith <G> !!!!

http://www.smoothline.com/

Ed

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 29 21:53:05 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 20:53:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
In-Reply-To: <000601ccaeec$fd498330$f7dc8990$@net>
References: <COL121-W27C680B62851FFB68BBE6FA4B30@phx.gbl>,
	<000601ccaeec$fd498330$f7dc8990$@net>
Message-ID: <COL121-W50E7EF402C32997DF79DA7A4B00@phx.gbl>

Yes, exactly. Maybe I can open it and put a piece of cardboard or something
stiff over the decayed foam.
Thanks,
Rich Kahn

> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Foam replacement
> Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 18:16:56 -0500
>
> Rich Kahn asked:
>
>
> Is the top foam inside the BJ8 door available with out changing the vinyl?
> It
> is the piece next to the window glass.  Mine is getting "crunchy" but looks
> fine. I cannot find it in the Moss book so I don't know what to call it.
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
>
> I believe you are referring to the inboard door capping piece that is
> composed of a molded foam rubber of a triangular cross section that is
> bonded to its steel mounting strip and is covered by black vinyl. Yes, this
> foam can gradually get brittle as it begins to break down with age,
> especially the driver's side.
> Replacement assemblies are available but the only ones I've seen have a
half
> round section which is not correct for BJ8's. I don't know of the
> availability of just the correct foam unless you can find one from a parted
> out BJ8. The original foams are not handed so possibly a good one could be
> retrieved from the passenger's side of a parts car.
>
> Rich

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Nov 29 22:24:33 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 23:24:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey)
Message-ID: <09469DC7C5B743CD9D6AE794866A90CE@GregPC>

http://tinyurl.com/6nws2ab

From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Nov 30 08:12:47 2011
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 09:12:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Healeys] Foam replacement
Message-ID: <19499282.876955.1322665967441.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>


From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Wed Nov 30 08:49:31 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:49:31 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3rd brake light.
Message-ID: <000701ccaf77$a664ba90$f32e2fb0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Thank you everybody for your advice. All sorted. Project will now lurch
forward at usual breakneck crawl.

Simon.

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Nov 30 09:16:58 2011
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:16:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
Message-ID: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@[192.168.1.100]>

Now that gives a whole new meaning to hideously ugly!
The Daimler was already a pretty weird design exercise; as though 
they refused to leave out any ideas of styling.

Stephen, BJ8

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Nov 30 09:52:21 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:52:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey)
In-Reply-To: <09469DC7C5B743CD9D6AE794866A90CE@GregPC>
References: <09469DC7C5B743CD9D6AE794866A90CE@GregPC>
Message-ID: <03be01ccaf80$6de79530$49b6bf90$@verizon.net>

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as the old saying goes.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 12:25 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey)

http://tinyurl.com/6nws2ab

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 30 09:54:24 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 08:54:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
In-Reply-To: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@192.168.1.100>
References: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@192.168.1.100>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYrKpKYSFZnSzdNzg-+qyOOw154X2t_xX4BHP1GB2h+n-w@mail.gmail.com>

wow, when you think nothing could be uglier than a SP 250 Dart. this guy
comes along a makes it even uglier......

On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 8:16 AM, Stephen Hutchings
<s.hutchings at rogers.com>wrote:

> Now that gives a whole new meaning to hideously ugly!
> The Daimler was already a pretty weird design exercise; as though they
> refused to leave out any ideas of styling.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Nov 30 10:04:54 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:04:54 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
In-Reply-To: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@[192.168.1.100]>
References: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@[192.168.1.100]>
Message-ID: <4ED66236.9020705@justbrits.com>

<< ...hideously ugly... >>

Stephen, you are demeaning both "hideous(ly)" AND "ugly" ! !

Off hand, I would agree with those words as applied to "The Worst of 
the Decade" and/or
"The SECOND worst" at:    http://www.justbrits.com/AHcars.html
but that SP 250 "as depicted" deserves "better" ! ! !

<VBG> !

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Nov 30 10:08:18 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:08:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYrKpKYSFZnSzdNzg-+qyOOw154X2t_xX4BHP1GB2h+n-w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@192.168.1.100>
	<CACPMnYrKpKYSFZnSzdNzg-+qyOOw154X2t_xX4BHP1GB2h+n-w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ED66302.6010505@justbrits.com>

<< ...this guy comes along a makes it even uglier...... >>

At least it's Primer Gray, Ira ! ! ! !

Just 'think' of what it "could" be !?!

<G>

Ed

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Nov 30 10:09:46 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 09:09:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
In-Reply-To: <4ED66236.9020705@justbrits.com>
References: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@[192.168.1.100]>
	<4ED66236.9020705@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <7AB5EBD4-6EBF-4F67-B677-CC885BD66CA0@gmail.com>

My eyes, ze goggles zey do nothing!

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 30, 2011, at 9:04, "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:

> << ...hideously ugly... >>
>
> Stephen, you are demeaning both "hideous(ly)" AND "ugly" ! !
>
> Off hand, I would agree with those words as applied to "The Worst of
> the Decade" and/or
> "The SECOND worst" at:    http://www.justbrits.com/AHcars.html
> but that SP 250 "as depicted" deserves "better" ! ! !
>
> <VBG> !
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Nov 30 13:01:59 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:01:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David  Ward
In-Reply-To: <A44747BA13A4427197210452AD6A48F3@DavidPC>
References: <A44747BA13A4427197210452AD6A48F3@DavidPC>
Message-ID: <03d401ccaf9a$ebae6100$c30b2300$@verizon.net>

The most famous 100S of them all

Austin-Healey racing car at centre of 1955 Le Mans disaster that killed 84
is set to sell for #1m

The Austin-Healey racing car involved in the infamous 1955 Le Mans disaster
is set to fetch #1m at auction after being locked away in a garage for 42
years.

Full Story:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2068015/Austin-Healey-racing-car-inv
olved-1955-Le-Mans-disaster-sell-1m.html

30 November 2011
www.dailymail.co.uk

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Nov 30 13:13:05 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:13:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David  Ward
In-Reply-To: <03d401ccaf9a$ebae6100$c30b2300$@verizon.net>
References: <A44747BA13A4427197210452AD6A48F3@DavidPC>
	<03d401ccaf9a$ebae6100$c30b2300$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <03d901ccaf9c$78d31480$6a793d80$@verizon.net>

Again but with Tiny URL:

http://tinyurl.com/d53f7zj


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 3:02 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David Ward

The most famous 100S of them all

Austin-Healey racing car at centre of 1955 Le Mans disaster that killed 84
is set to sell for #1m

The Austin-Healey racing car involved in the infamous 1955 Le Mans disaster
is set to fetch #1m at auction after being locked away in a garage for 42
years.

Full Story:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2068015/Austin-Healey-racing-car-inv
olved-1955-Le-Mans-disaster-sell-1m.html

30 November 2011
www.dailymail.co.uk

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Wed Nov 30 13:24:11 2011
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:24:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David   Ward
In-Reply-To: <03d901ccaf9c$78d31480$6a793d80$@verizon.net>
References: <A44747BA13A4427197210452AD6A48F3@DavidPC>
	<03d401ccaf9a$ebae6100$c30b2300$@verizon.net>
	<03d901ccaf9c$78d31480$6a793d80$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <7D3E4A22-7A79-401A-B18F-3B830D1D6DF2@cgocable.ca>

Tomorrow also this nice 100 will be  on the block

Lot No: 452
The ex-Turin Motor Show
1953 Austin-Healey 100 Pre-production Prototype
Registration no. AHX 11
Chassis no. BN1L 134370
Engine no. 1B 136788

http://www.bonhams.com/eur/auction/19293/lot/452/


G Gauthier

BT7

Qc.




Le 11-11-30 ` 15:13, John Sims a icrit :

> Again but with Tiny URL:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/d53f7zj
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> ]
> On Behalf Of John Sims
> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 3:02 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David Ward
>
> The most famous 100S of them all
>
> Austin-Healey racing car at centre of 1955 Le Mans disaster that
> killed 84
> is set to sell for #1m
>
> The Austin-Healey racing car involved in the infamous 1955 Le Mans
> disaster
> is set to fetch #1m at auction after being locked away in a garage
> for 42
> years.
>
> Full Story:
>
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2068015/Austin-Healey-racing-car-inv
> olved-1955-Le-Mans-disaster-sell-1m.html
>
> 30 November 2011
> www.dailymail.co.uk
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Wed Nov 30 13:47:47 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 12:47:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] British Motor Heritage Certificates
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A18EB6@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

How long does it typically take to receive your certificate stateside?


Jonas Payne
PB R
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de  Wed Nov 30 14:10:52 2011
From: mail at eberhard-pietzsch.de (Eberhard Pietzsch)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 22:10:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Solved: Stearing wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
Message-ID: <4ED69BDC.6080004@eberhard-pietzsch.de>

Hi,

many thanks to those of you who replied to my posting.
I finally managed to remove my steering wheel. Here the
solution, if you are interested:

- Take a really large pipe wrench or a equally large
   open-end spanner (the pipe wrench might be cheaper)
   http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t3.jpg

- Put it behind the steering wheel. Try to protect the
   aluminium wheel against the steel of the wrench using
   some old cloth or similar
   http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t4.jpg

- Take a respectable hammer
   http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t5.jpg

- Strongly hit the wrench from behind (it might help
   to close both eyes)
   http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t6.jpg

That's it,
Eberhard


On 11/26/2011 08:01 PM, Eberhard Pietzsch wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have a problem removing the steering wheel of my BN6.
>
> I recently managed to unscrew the large nut of the steering
> wheel. Washer as well as aluminium (or alloy?) ring with nose
> for indicator could be taken off.
>
> Now the steering should be free to be pulled off. But it is
> sticky. I can only move it about 1 cm forwand and backward.
> I have made some fotos of this:
>
> http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t1.jpg
> http://www.eberhard-pietzsch.de/healey/t2.jpg
>
> I can freely move the wheel between these two positions but
> I have no chance to pull it of. There seems to be another
> protection against pulling but I can't find it. Can someone
> of you help me?
>
> Thanks,
> Eberhard
>

-- 
Dr. Eberhard Pietzsch
T|bingen

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Wed Nov 30 14:23:43 2011
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 13:23:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Solved: Steering wheel sticky
In-Reply-To: <4ED69BDC.6080004@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
References: <4ED137A5.6080801@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
	<4ED69BDC.6080004@eberhard-pietzsch.de>
Message-ID: <ABDAF642D7334CD0BEFA56B2FA6540DE@JerryPC>

Any solution that involves a big hammer is good in my book! 

Jerry

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Nov 30 15:19:05 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 06:19:05 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
In-Reply-To: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@192.168.1.100>
References: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@192.168.1.100>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKoeK_bECQoMdnrwDGBXn13kr2mqkQscnjt158ZrMmA7A@mail.gmail.com>

The worst part is he removed the car's best feature - the Damlier 2.5
L V8.  Wonderful motor.

On 12/1/11, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
> Now that gives a whole new meaning to hideously ugly!
> The Daimler was already a pretty weird design exercise; as though
> they refused to leave out any ideas of styling.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 30 16:01:10 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:01:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey in Mille Miglia
Message-ID: <9F11CF59-1706-4389-8077-72CA885D9998@sbcglobal.net>

Tonight on Velocity channel part of Discovery at 5pm  and 8 pm  
pacific time that are showing this years Mille Race and one of the  
cars they are featuring is the Drive Away Cancer Healey ran the race  
after completing its Coast to Coast to Coast run last August.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Nov 30 16:55:48 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 10:55:48 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKoeK_bECQoMdnrwDGBXn13kr2mqkQscnjt158ZrMmA7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@192.168.1.100>
	<CAFBXTkKoeK_bECQoMdnrwDGBXn13kr2mqkQscnjt158ZrMmA7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <090AD10C2F7B41FBBEFA0AD704559DBF@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Alan

I agree Alan, the Edward Turner designed V8 in either 2.5 or 4.5 litre form
is up there with the best V8s ever.

I had a friend with a 2.5 in a Morris Minor which was a lot of fun.

A well turned out and original Daimler SP250 is quite a nice car.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Thursday, 1 December 2011 9:19 AM
To: Stephen Hutchings; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey

The worst part is he removed the car's best feature - the Damlier 2.5
L V8.  Wonderful motor.

On 12/1/11, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
> Now that gives a whole new meaning to hideously ugly!
> The Daimler was already a pretty weird design exercise; as though
> they refused to leave out any ideas of styling.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Nov 30 17:44:03 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 19:44:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey in Mille Miglia
In-Reply-To: <9F11CF59-1706-4389-8077-72CA885D9998@sbcglobal.net>
References: <9F11CF59-1706-4389-8077-72CA885D9998@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <03f501ccafc2$5379a8e0$fa6cfaa0$@verizon.net>

Thanks. I did not even know that I had that channel!

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 6:01 PM
To: Healey List List
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey in Mille Miglia

Tonight on Velocity channel part of Discovery at 5pm  and 8 pm pacific time
that are showing this years Mille Race and one of the cars they are
featuring is the Drive Away Cancer Healey ran the race after completing its
Coast to Coast to Coast run last August.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Nov 30 18:21:01 2011
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 01:21:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David   Ward
In-Reply-To: <03d901ccaf9c$78d31480$6a793d80$@verizon.net>
References: <A44747BA13A4427197210452AD6A48F3@DavidPC>,
	<03d401ccaf9a$ebae6100$c30b2300$@verizon.net>,
	<03d901ccaf9c$78d31480$6a793d80$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <BAY166-W1774916EE1AD632CE48C56A5B10@phx.gbl>

Typically there was as much misinformation in the article as information. And
the commenters are a bunch of incontinent old ladies. They want to blame the
car for the accident. One guy thinks it should be crushed another thinks
racing should be banned etc. I think they should stick to knitting. You can
live until you die of boredom that way...

Bill Lawrence

> From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:13:05 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] FW:  FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David  Ward
>
> Again but with Tiny URL:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/d53f7zj
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of John Sims
> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 3:02 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David Ward
>
> The most famous 100S of them all
>
> Austin-Healey racing car at centre of 1955 Le Mans disaster that killed 84
> is set to sell for #1m
>
> The Austin-Healey racing car involved in the infamous 1955 Le Mans disaster
> is set to fetch #1m at auction after being locked away in a garage for 42
> years.
>
> Full Story:
>
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2068015/Austin-Healey-racing-car-inv
> olved-1955-Le-Mans-disaster-sell-1m.html
>
> 30 November 2011
> www.dailymail.co.uk
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Nov 30 18:40:28 2011
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 17:40:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Barnett's Funeral Service
References: <bd6be.311636b2.3c01302b@aol.com>
	<003b01ccac6d$68d31b20$3a795160$@com>
	<533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF63314F90172@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com> 
Message-ID: <007101ccafca$352e40a0$9f8ac1e0$@com>

For the listers who have expressed interest in attending the funeral service
for Bill Barnett, it will be held Saturday, December 10, 10:00 a.m. at St.
Matthew Church, 1111 West Town & Country Road, Orange, CA 92868.  A
reception and lunch will follow the service at the church.  Members of the
Austin-Healey Association of Southern California will be meeting at Bill's
house, 2505 West Manly Ave., Santa Ana, CA 92704 at 9:00 a.m. in their
Healeys to caravan to the service, a distance of approximately 8 miles.
Bill requested as many Healeys as possible participate, as well as other
British and vintage cars.  All who knew Bill and wish to pay their respects
are welcome to join our caravan.

Bruce Steele
President
Austin-Healey Association of Southern California
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Wed Nov 30 19:00:02 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 12:00:02 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
In-Reply-To: <090AD10C2F7B41FBBEFA0AD704559DBF@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@192.168.1.100><CAFBXTkKoeK_bECQoMdnrwDGBXn13kr2mqkQscnjt158ZrMmA7A@mail.gmail.com>
	<090AD10C2F7B41FBBEFA0AD704559DBF@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <AD005597F9334A369B229C9EAA7FD5A2@Notebook>

Just got back from G.EA.R day at Lakeside - SP250 out there - ex-US race 
car. 10:1 CR sounds great! I had a 2.5 litre V8 sedan for 12 years - great 
car except for horrible Borg Warner type 35 3 speed auto

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane

-----Original Message----- 
From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 9:55 AM
To: 'Alan Seigrist' ; 'Stephen Hutchings' ; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey

G'day Alan

I agree Alan, the Edward Turner designed V8 in either 2.5 or 4.5 litre form
is up there with the best V8s ever.

I had a friend with a 2.5 in a Morris Minor which was a lot of fun.

A well turned out and original Daimler SP250 is quite a nice car.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Thursday, 1 December 2011 9:19 AM
To: Stephen Hutchings; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey

The worst part is he removed the car's best feature - the Damlier 2.5
L V8.  Wonderful motor.

On 12/1/11, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
> Now that gives a whole new meaning to hideously ugly!
> The Daimler was already a pretty weird design exercise; as though
> they refused to leave out any ideas of styling.
>
> Stephen, BJ8

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Nov 30 19:08:44 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 13:08:44 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] FW: FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David Ward
In-Reply-To: <BAY166-W1774916EE1AD632CE48C56A5B10@phx.gbl>
References: <A44747BA13A4427197210452AD6A48F3@DavidPC>,
	<03d401ccaf9a$ebae6100$c30b2300$@verizon.net>,
	<03d901ccaf9c$78d31480$6a793d80$@verizon.net>
	<BAY166-W1774916EE1AD632CE48C56A5B10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0475B836798448DB991A0EC3981F5596@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Bill

Yes I agree. It was very short on correct information.

No mentioned that the AH was impounded by the French police and let go 18
months with no blame and too bad that the French investigation report was
not mentioned which stated:

"Mr Hawthorn, driver of Jaguar car No. 6  . overtook on the left the car No
26 driven by Lance Macklin, then suddenly came back on the right and braked;
Macklin, surprised by such driving inclined to the left just as he was
joined by car No. 20 driven by Levegh who, trying to pass on the extreme
left of the track, happened to collide with the left side of car No. 26 and
ran against the safety banking."

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Thursday, 1 December 2011 12:21 PM
To: ahbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David Ward

Typically there was as much misinformation in the article as information.
And
the commenters are a bunch of incontinent old ladies. They want to blame the
car for the accident. One guy thinks it should be crushed another thinks
racing should be banned etc. I think they should stick to knitting. You can
live until you die of boredom that way...

Bill Lawrence

> From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:13:05 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] FW:  FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David  Ward
>
> Again but with Tiny URL:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/d53f7zj
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of John Sims
> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 3:02 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] FW: A dailymail.co.uk article from David Ward
>
> The most famous 100S of them all
>
> Austin-Healey racing car at centre of 1955 Le Mans disaster that killed 84
> is set to sell for #1m
>
> The Austin-Healey racing car involved in the infamous 1955 Le Mans
disaster
> is set to fetch #1m at auction after being locked away in a garage for 42
> years.
>
> Full Story:
>
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2068015/Austin-Healey-racing-car-inv
> olved-1955-Le-Mans-disaster-sell-1m.html
>
> 30 November 2011
> www.dailymail.co.uk

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Nov 30 20:45:30 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey])
Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 14:45:30 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000
Message-ID: <CAKAwfjdRu0y49Ynw8sAePAtmcLQX5thFGO_Da-EmiPNow=8S7Q@mail.gmail.com>

On eBay now..

http://bit.ly/trf7YV

or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-1961-titled-1962-Austin-Healey-3000-MKII-red-4-place-DeLuxe-HBT7-15724-wires-/260906266342

Did anyone outside of Australia ever see the Movie "The Castle"?
A memorable line comes to mind...
"Tell him he's dreaming"....

Chris

Not too late to donate to my Movember Moustache at
http://au.movember.com/mospace/613/

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Nov 30 21:05:24 2011
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 20:05:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000
In-Reply-To: <CAKAwfjdRu0y49Ynw8sAePAtmcLQX5thFGO_Da-EmiPNow=8S7Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKAwfjdRu0y49Ynw8sAePAtmcLQX5thFGO_Da-EmiPNow=8S7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008401ccafde$745cefb0$5d16cf10$@com>

Surely they can't be serious...

Bruce
Brea, CA
1960 BN7


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock [Healey]
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:46 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000

On eBay now..

http://bit.ly/trf7YV

or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-1961-titled-1962-Austin-Healey-
3000-MKII-red-4-place-DeLuxe-HBT7-15724-wires-/260906266342

Did anyone outside of Australia ever see the Movie "The Castle"?
A memorable line comes to mind...
"Tell him he's dreaming"....

Chris

Not too late to donate to my Movember Moustache at
http://au.movember.com/mospace/613/
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 30 21:19:35 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 20:19:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000
In-Reply-To: <008401ccafde$745cefb0$5d16cf10$@com>
References: <CAKAwfjdRu0y49Ynw8sAePAtmcLQX5thFGO_Da-EmiPNow=8S7Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<008401ccafde$745cefb0$5d16cf10$@com>
Message-ID: <4ED70057.5040905@comcast.net>

Maybe it was at the '55 LeMans ...




On 11/30/2011 8:05 PM, Healey Bruce wrote:
> Surely they can't be serious...
>
> Bruce
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock [Healey]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:46 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000
>
> On eBay now..
>
> http://bit.ly/trf7YV
>
> or
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-1961-titled-1962-Austin-Healey-
> 3000-MKII-red-4-place-DeLuxe-HBT7-15724-wires-/260906266342
>
> Did anyone outside of Australia ever see the Movie "The Castle"?
> A memorable line comes to mind...
> "Tell him he's dreaming"....
>
> Chris
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Nov 30 21:24:13 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 22:24:13 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey
In-Reply-To: <090AD10C2F7B41FBBEFA0AD704559DBF@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <a06240801cafc06e5d0a0@192.168.1.100><CAFBXTkKoeK_bECQoMdnrwDGBXn13kr2mqkQscnjt158ZrMmA7A@mail.gmail.com>
	<090AD10C2F7B41FBBEFA0AD704559DBF@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <B4AA7890D23140CE88923B621DD85F35@GregPC>

The Daimler SP250 was quickly moved up to C production class by the SCCA 
after its introduction in the early sixties, a class above the big Healey, 
and in the same class as the AC Ace and early jag roadsters, as noted a 
shame to swap out the sweet and somewhat rare V-8 in the car.

It is sometimes said the most beautiful cars are reflections of nature, if a 
big Healey has something of a big cat ready to pounce in profile, the SP250 
has a little bit of bottom feeding catfish in the front view.

Still a neat and uniqe car, on my bucket list of things to own.

Greg Lemon

From seansxton at gmail.com  Wed Nov 30 21:51:01 2011
From: seansxton at gmail.com (Sean Sexton)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 22:51:01 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000
In-Reply-To: <4ED70057.5040905@comcast.net>
References: <CAKAwfjdRu0y49Ynw8sAePAtmcLQX5thFGO_Da-EmiPNow=8S7Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<008401ccafde$745cefb0$5d16cf10$@com> <4ED70057.5040905@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANx0aR5Jc1=jo9SKWCmWAuuX2-UKQT6iHovxhP8bq6DNUxoZ4A@mail.gmail.com>

I asked if they meant $45000.

On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:19 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Maybe it was at the '55 LeMans ...
>
>
>
>
>
> On 11/30/2011 8:05 PM, Healey Bruce wrote:
>
>> Surely they can't be serious...
>>
>> Bruce
>> Brea, CA
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.**
>> team.net <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>]
>> On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock [Healey]
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:46 PM
>> To: Healeys
>> Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000
>>
>> On eBay now..
>>
>> http://bit.ly/trf7YV
>>
>> or
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/**ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-1961-**
>> titled-1962-Austin-Healey-<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-1961-titled-1962-Austin-Healey->
>> 3000-MKII-red-4-place-DeLuxe-**HBT7-15724-wires-/260906266342
>>
>> Did anyone outside of Australia ever see the Movie "The Castle"?
>> A memorable line comes to mind...
>> "Tell him he's dreaming"....
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/seansxton@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/seansxton at gmail.com>

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 30 22:11:31 2011
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 21:11:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000
In-Reply-To: <008401ccafde$745cefb0$5d16cf10$@com>
References: <CAKAwfjdRu0y49Ynw8sAePAtmcLQX5thFGO_Da-EmiPNow=8S7Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<008401ccafde$745cefb0$5d16cf10$@com>
Message-ID: <CACPMnYozzu-AAWmFsHoTb2a8=chfoFydsGXmOzfePEPcrGiMzQ@mail.gmail.com>

Montey Shelton is  local Car dealer and has many classic cars for sale. I
would think it was a typo. They were a BMC dealer back in the day.
My story. One day 10-12 years ago, they had a BT7 in their sales garage
with the bonnet up. I walked in to look at it. I had my hands in my back
pockets and was leaning in to look at the engine. A sales man walks out,
takes a look at my beard and hair, jeans and T shirt, closed the bonnet,
stared at me, and then asked if he could be of any help. I asked him if he
had any idea how much money I had in the bank? He stared at me. I then
said, I own one of these, and thought of buying another, but would not do
so from such a rude, judgmental dealership. spun on my heals and walked out.

On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 8:05 PM, Healey Bruce <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>wrote:

> Surely they can't be serious...
>
> Bruce
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock [Healey]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:46 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on ebay - buy it now for just $445,000
>
> On eBay now..
>
> http://bit.ly/trf7YV
>
> or
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-1961-titled-1962-Austin-Healey-
> 3000-MKII-red-4-place-DeLuxe-HBT7-15724-wires-/260906266342<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-1961-titled-1962-Austin-Healey-%0A3000-MKII-red-4-place-DeLuxe-HBT7-15724-wires-/260906266342>
>
> Did anyone outside of Australia ever see the Movie "The Castle"?
> A memorable line comes to mind...
> "Tell him he's dreaming"....
>
> Chris
>
> Not too late to donate to my Movember Moustache at
> http://au.movember.com/mospace/613/
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 30 22:33:14 2011
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 21:33:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey)
In-Reply-To: <09469DC7C5B743CD9D6AE794866A90CE@GregPC>
Message-ID: <1322717594.16343.YahooMailClassic@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

...the only scary part is that the seller has only 1 feedback on ebay and the
account has not been active for at least 12 months.  Inactive ebay accounts
have been hijacked before.   I would not buy without contacting with seller by
phone or preferably seeing the car in person.
B.

--- On Wed, 11/30/11, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Not for the Faint of Heart (non-healey)
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, November 30, 2011, 6:24 AM

http://tinyurl.com/6nws2ab
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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