From shop at justbrits.com  Sun May  1 00:02:20 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 01:02:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank....Part # 2
In-Reply-To: <F420DCF41D9844959554C72EAF0DFF1F@GregPC>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop>
	<0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<F420DCF41D9844959554C72EAF0DFF1F@GregPC>
Message-ID: <4DBCF76C.7000706@justbrits.com>

Part # 2:

Then there is "Step # 2" which Bob Spidell touches on<G>:
<quote>
...the station would need three tanks instead of two,
</quote>

Around here and places I've seen "on East Coast" including
OH, PA, VAs, etc., they have FOUR at new R & Rs. 
Now let's toss in the 'monkey wrench' !  LOL  In those
"areas" I have come across "fume recovery nozzles" which
seem to be State-Level Mandated but apparently ONLY on
"upgrading" [ of what ? ].

<quote>
...the trucks would need 3 sections, etc.  (all the gas trucks
I've seen have two trailers and two outlets).
</quote>

Funny Bob [ and I DO pay "rig" attention ], I have NEVER
seen a rig like you have OUT of Calif. !!!
Around here [ and areas mentioned above ] everything is
single trailer with up to SIX [ 6 ] compartments/outlets.

Now a "REAL" "MONKEY WRENCH, left handed" <G> !
Truck returns to Loading Depot and Dispatch AND Driver
get Computer Instruction mixed up.  The Trailer Section
that HAD contained [ say ] Mid-grade is accidentally filled
with LO-grade.  The previous Section of Mid-grade made
with Formula # 55 including Ethanol # 88.  This Section
has NOW been FILLED with LO-grade Formula 31 which
includes Ethanol # 52,

So you go and fill up your [ any ] car and what do you have?

A TRUE & REAL "CRAP-SHOOT" !!

And you "think" you "know" WHAT yer pumping <VBG> ???

NAH !

Ed

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May  1 01:37:40 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 09:37:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure relief valve
In-Reply-To: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>

The 70psi oil pressure should not present a problem, not on the bypass 
valve for the filter either as this operates as a differential valve. 
Even if the by pass valves would open it will only be very slight and 
the main quantity of oil will pass through the filter.
However check with a good oil pressure gauge, preferably properly 
calibrated.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May  1 01:47:33 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 09:47:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Tools
In-Reply-To: <70C99B6CEC304725BF9E13D3A5765E66@LeonardPCPC>
References: <70C99B6CEC304725BF9E13D3A5765E66@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <4DBD1015.7010905@chello.nl>

Metrinch spanners are a very clever design that will cover nearly all 
AF, imperial and metric sizes with one set and cause much less damage to 
nuts and bolt heads as they work on the bolt/head flanks and not on the 
tops as conventional spanners do. The only problem is that you need a 
bit more space as the angle necessary to move is slightly larger.
They are looking very smart as they have a good finish. There is a 
downside though. The quality of the material is, while good, less than 
the top brands and therefore the design is not as slim as it could be.
It is used by amateurs and professionals.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May  1 02:20:33 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 10:20:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop><0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl>

In the Netherlands there are only 2 or 3 refineries. ALL brands big and 
small get their fuel from these. It even goes as far as trucks from 
Shell, Esso, Texaco, BP etc supplying other brands or each other. 
Supposedly the "specially formulated and branded"  dopes are added after 
the fuel has been loaded, Yeah.
Differences in the various brands? My foot!!
I do not expect it to be very much different in any country across the 
globe.
Any of you really had a proven problem because of modern fuel, other 
than dissolved coatings and rubber hoses causing some blockages and 
gumming up?
Premium fuel? It is a lot more expensive. Results? Negative. Not even 
the real octane rating is higher. Sometimes I even doubt if the product 
at the pump is different. So keep your money in the pocket and use the 
regular fuel. If your engine really requires high octane fuel, get real 
tetra ethyl lead from a can and add to your fuel or get the special 
racing formulated fuel if you can.
I have never had any problems with the cheapest brand fuel I could find 
in any of my cars since the mid sixties when I started driving. When 
leaded 98-100 octane (EU) fuel was phased out I had to retard some but 
not all of the ignitions of the older cars, that was all.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun May  1 05:59:39 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 21:59:39 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Ratchet Spanners
In-Reply-To: <4DBC13D0.9050401@comcast.net>
References: <DD21FD95FD27419DAB68BB30880C4A7A@PatrickQuinnPC><4DBB91A5.4030600@comcast.net><3CCEABAA-C01A-43E6-9254-4D5DA10799DD@cox.net><BANLkTinLffALXKN0Qv0z-doVq6NjisnQ8w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DBC13D0.9050401@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AEF5ED9BC1214962B4A12F8B4B44724E@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Many thanks to everyone who responded.

I already have an account with Amazon and have purchased a set of seven
GearWrench spanners through them for Aus$52 landed in Australia which is
very good value. That's about US$57.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, 30 April 2011 11:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ratchet Spanners

They also have an SAE set:

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-9317-Ratcheting-16-Inch-Standard/dp/B0009RL
PT4/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b

However, these don't have the lever for switching directions (you have to
flip the wrench over).  I think the ability to 
switch directions easily is worth the extra money.  For instance, to remove
a rusted-on or partly stripped nut it often 
helps to go back-and-forth, and removing, flipping and re-applying the
wrench is extra hassle.

Bob

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  1 06:10:07 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 05:10:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank....Part # 2
In-Reply-To: <4DBCF76C.7000706@justbrits.com>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop>
	<0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<F420DCF41D9844959554C72EAF0DFF1F@GregPC>
	<4DBCF76C.7000706@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4DBD4D9F.9070500@comcast.net>

Yeah, I got that wrong.  Two trailers wouldn't work in city traffic.

Damn liberal media.


bs


On 4/30/2011 11:02 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote:
>
>
> <quote>
> ...the trucks would need 3 sections, etc.  (all the gas trucks
> I've seen have two trailers and two outlets).
> </quote>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  1 06:12:35 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 05:12:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure relief valve
In-Reply-To: <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net>

My main concern would be putting too much of a load on the gear that drives the pump (and distributor).  I've heard they 
can wear prematurely and even fail if the load (resistance, torque) is too great.

Bob


On 5/1/2011 12:37 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> The 70psi oil pressure should not present a problem, not on the bypass valve for the filter either as this operates as 
> a differential valve. Even if the by pass valves would open it will only be very slight and the main quantity of oil 
> will pass through the filter.
> However check with a good oil pressure gauge, preferably properly calibrated.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May  1 06:25:46 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 14:25:46 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure relief valve
In-Reply-To: <4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DBD514A.6010406@chello.nl>

If in good condition I would not worry about is. Failure of this kind is 
mainly caused by lack of servicing i.e. old and dirty oil, blocked oil 
filter, not enough oil supply because of blocked passages etc. in fact 
when it is already (partly) worn.
If you are worried it is a simple job to reduce the pressure to 50-60 psi.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  1 06:39:52 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 05:39:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop><0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>

My Mustang will run on anything from 87-octane on up.  The specs say I get 10ft-lbs more torque in the midrange if I run 
91-octane or higher.  It's pretty subjective--you'd have to put it on a dyno to be sure--but there is a slight, 
occasional hesitation when I punch it with the low-test.  It seems to run a tad smoother on the high-test, too.  I've 
mixed 93, 95 and 100 octane fuel in and didn't notice much difference (you'd need to raise the CR to get any gain from 
higher octane,  I suspect).  Again, totally subjective.

I don't know about Europe, but I believe there is a difference in octane ratings.  The refiners know what they're 
making, and unless there's a screwup you should be getting what the pump says (some brands only put their 'special' 
additives in their premium).  The Bureau of Weights and Measures checks the volumes the pumps dispense (I used to work 
there).  There should be a sticker on every pump showing the last time it was checked.  I don't know who checks the fuel 
octane--probably the refiner; I think that's a fairly complex test--so some may cheat, though.  Would make an 
interesting 'investigative reporting' episode.

What do you think of 'Top Tier' fuel?

Bob


On 5/1/2011 1:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> In the Netherlands there are only 2 or 3 refineries. ALL brands big and
> small get their fuel from these. It even goes as far as trucks from
> Shell, Esso, Texaco, BP etc supplying other brands or each other.
> Supposedly the "specially formulated and branded"  dopes are added after
> the fuel has been loaded, Yeah.
> Differences in the various brands? My foot!!
> I do not expect it to be very much different in any country across the
> globe.
> Any of you really had a proven problem because of modern fuel, other
> than dissolved coatings and rubber hoses causing some blockages and
> gumming up?
> Premium fuel? It is a lot more expensive. Results? Negative. Not even
> the real octane rating is higher. Sometimes I even doubt if the product
> at the pump is different. So keep your money in the pocket and use the
> regular fuel. If your engine really requires high octane fuel, get real
> tetra ethyl lead from a can and add to your fuel or get the special
> racing formulated fuel if you can.
> I have never had any problems with the cheapest brand fuel I could find
> in any of my cars since the mid sixties when I started driving. When
> leaded 98-100 octane (EU) fuel was phased out I had to retard some but
> not all of the ignitions of the older cars, that was all.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun May  1 07:05:19 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 09:05:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop><0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl> <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <008d01cc0800$6d8c5f80$48a51e80$@verizon.net>

I doubt if anyone is testing the octane rating any more and with the
computers controlling everything on a car nowdays it may not be necessary if
the rating is off a point or two.
That being said, In the mid 50's while in high school I worked for Western
Union as a messenger and one of our services was "Purchase Pack and Ship" A
major nationwide customer was the Ethyl Corp. We would buy a gallon of gas
periodically randomly and ship it back to them via Railway Express (remember
them) where they would test it to see if the quantity of tetraethyl lead was
proper. If not, they would go after the refinery.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2011 8:40 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys

My Mustang will run on anything from 87-octane on up.  The specs say I get
10ft-lbs more torque in the midrange if I run 91-octane or higher.  It's
pretty subjective--you'd have to put it on a dyno to be sure--but there is a
slight, occasional hesitation when I punch it with the low-test.  It seems
to run a tad smoother on the high-test, too.  I've mixed 93, 95 and 100
octane fuel in and didn't notice much difference (you'd need to raise the CR
to get any gain from higher octane,  I suspect).  Again, totally subjective.

I don't know about Europe, but I believe there is a difference in octane
ratings.  The refiners know what they're making, and unless there's a
screwup you should be getting what the pump says (some brands only put their
'special'
additives in their premium).  The Bureau of Weights and Measures checks the
volumes the pumps dispense (I used to work there).  There should be a
sticker on every pump showing the last time it was checked.  I don't know
who checks the fuel octane--probably the refiner; I think that's a fairly
complex test--so some may cheat, though.  Would make an interesting
'investigative reporting' episode.

What do you think of 'Top Tier' fuel?

Bob

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May  1 07:11:55 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 15:11:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop><0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl> <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DBD5C1B.4090804@chello.nl>

What is "top tier" fuel? Never heard of it in EU.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Sun May  1 07:22:43 2011
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 14:22:43 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure relief valve
In-Reply-To: <4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Bob

I agree. I have seen a 100 gear type pump where the woodruff key that 
drives the first gear has been ripped out of the shaft. In the process 
the gear might have been split but there was so much damage it was hard 
to tell.

The relief valve had been packed out so that it would hardly open

Best regards


>My main concern would be putting too much of a load on the gear that 
>drives the pump (and distributor).  I've heard they can wear 
>prematurely and even fail if the load (resistance, torque) is too great.
>
>Bob
>
>
>On 5/1/2011 12:37 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
>> The 70psi oil pressure should not present a problem, not on the 
>>bypass valve for the filter either as this operates as  a differential 
>>valve. Even if the by pass valves would open it will only be very 
>>slight and the main quantity of oil  will pass through the filter.
>> However check with a good oil pressure gauge, preferably properly calibrated.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>
>

-- 
John Harper

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Sun May  1 07:51:43 2011
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 08:51:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net> <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net>

Folks,
 
Recently I replaced the angle drive on my 1959 3000 in hopes of eliminating
the factory optional bouncing speedometer.
While this did result in somewhat less bouncing, it is far from the results
I had hoped for.
 
The speedometer was rebuilt twice by MO MA a few years ago, after the
initial rebuild failed to correct problems with the odometer. The second
attempt by MO MA simply changed one odometer problem to another odometer
problem, so I gave up n MO MA. 
 
The speedometer cable is relative new and the distance the cable extends
into the speedometer is correct per Norm Nock's book.
 
Any suggestions?
 
Thanks
   Ron

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May  1 08:10:21 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 16:10:21 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop><0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl> <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DBD69CD.8000502@chello.nl>

What is "top tier" fuel? Never heard of it in EU.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From jagwarman at gmail.com  Sun May  1 08:34:18 2011
From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 10:34:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel expectations
Message-ID: <BANLkTikhk9u+34Kz8C17DB8oFSog4sWk=Q@mail.gmail.com>

Here is an observation and a question? I live in an area where the town has
one gas station and no one buys premium. Here is the reason. The pumps are
under 10 years old and have three different nozzles. 1 for diesel and 2 for
the unleaded , mid grade and premium, humm shouldn't there be 3 nozzles for
the gasoline side and one for diesel since there are four types of fuel. I
found out from an employee that one nozzle runs mid grade and premium but I
was told don't buy premium cause there isn't any and no actual tank for
premium but they show it and charge for it. Everyone local knows not to buy
premium but tourist don't . Humm honesty in America. Also when looking at
the pump there are three registers like a trip meter showing the fuel being
drawn out of the tanks at the station 1 for diesel, 1 for unleaded, and one
gauge for the remaining two grades. Check this out at your local gas pump
before filling your tank!

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun May  1 09:43:30 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 11:43:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net> <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net>
Message-ID: <002c01cc0816$85974d90$90c5e8b0$@net>

Ron, 

I think there is probably some information in the archives on this but the
summary of the causes of a bouncing speedometer can be two things:
 1. the speedometer cable is kinked in some way causing it to repeatedly
stick, wind up and let go, then stick again, etc. The best way to check for
this is to completely withdraw the inner core and lay it on a clean flat
surface. Bring the ends almost together in a large loop. Carefully turn one
end while the cable is remaining completely flat on the table surface. Watch
to see if the other end is lifting and flopping at all at the end or
anywhere along its length. Ideally it should lie completely flat and turn
smoothly.
 2. there is excessive lubricant that has travelled up the cable and entered
into the speedometer head. This is most commonly caused by oil escaping past
a worn seal in the brass sleeve that the 90 degree gear drive screws into on
the side of the overdrive unit. Most people don't realize that there is a
seal within the brass drive sleeve. When worn, gearbox oil can escape and
travel right up the cable like an auger, and enter the speedo, causing the
problem. 
I deal only with Nissonger Instruments (long story). When they encounter
this oil contamination problem they clean and test the unit and return it
with a preprinted warranty label stating the problem and that it must be
fixed on the car or their cleaning repair warranty will not be honoured.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Ray
Sent: 2011-05-01 9:52
To: 'healeylist'
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer

Folks,
 
Recently I replaced the angle drive on my 1959 3000 in hopes of eliminating
the factory optional bouncing speedometer.
While this did result in somewhat less bouncing, it is far from the results
I had hoped for.
 
The speedometer was rebuilt twice by MO MA a few years ago, after the
initial rebuild failed to correct problems with the odometer. The second
attempt by MO MA simply changed one odometer problem to another odometer
problem, so I gave up n MO MA. 
 
The speedometer cable is relative new and the distance the cable extends
into the speedometer is correct per Norm Nock's book.
 
Any suggestions?
 
Thanks
   Ron

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  1 09:45:44 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 08:45:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <4DBD5C1B.4090804@chello.nl>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop><0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl> <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
	<4DBD5C1B.4090804@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4DBD8028.4080504@comcast.net>

http://www.toptiergas.com/

It's a) a legitimate effort to qualify fuel, b) marketing BS, c) both.

I think it's all three.


Bob



On 5/1/2011 6:11 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> What is "top tier" fuel? Never heard of it in EU.
> Kees Oudesluijs


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  1 10:11:45 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 09:11:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net> <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net>
Message-ID: <4DBD8641.1040500@comcast.net>

It so happens I've been studying/working on/swearing at my BJ8's speedometer extensively for the last few years (got 
tired of dropping $200 at the speedo shop).  I'm not a hexpert, but I've learned a lot.

If the bounce is 'rhythmic;' that is, the needle is steady then pops at an even period--particularly when the odometer 
or tripmeter increments--it's probably a cracked or stripped odometer or tripmeter drive gear, respectively.

If it's more or less random--and since you have a fresh cable and angle drive--it's probably due to some resistance in 
the mechanism.  There is a surprising (to me) amount of resistance to the cable even in a properly functioning speedo.  
Anything that adds to that resistance will cause the cable to wind up slightly, then when you're past the resistance the 
cable snaps back and bingo--a bounce.

Remove the cable at the back of the speedo, insert a small screwdriver and turn it (you can do this with the speedo in 
the car if you're a contortionist).  It should turn smoothly through 360deg--if it binds at all you'll need to pull it 
out and inspect the guts.  There's no mystery--no 'jeweled bearings' etc.--just a small shaft that looks like a 
miniature camshaft that drives the magnet carrier.  The magnet pulls the drag cup, which turns the needle.  The odometer 
and tripmeter are driven by two gears off a large spiral gear on the shaft.

I don't want to start a debate on the best lube for the cable--I use silicone oil; graphite is good but messy, and light 
grease is OK but might gunk up over time.  Dry is probably just fine, too.

I've attached a doc that might help.

Bob


On 5/1/2011 6:51 AM, Ron Ray wrote: ..

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Repairing Speedo-2002.pdf]

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun May  1 11:55:16 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 10:55:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel expectations
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikhk9u+34Kz8C17DB8oFSog4sWk=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikhk9u+34Kz8C17DB8oFSog4sWk=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=_EAeXX-sz9zcNZNXjSAM9a7+Q1Q@mail.gmail.com>

I don't know where you are at, but if a station tried that in California the
county department  of weights and measures AND State department of consumer
protection would be all over that station like stink on shit.
It is easy to tell if this is true or not, when you go to the station
(assuming it has underground tanks) look for the tank covers, these are
usually metal and 18"-24" in diameter.  Here in California they are raised
slightly from the surrounding pavement.  Count the number of covers.  The
number of covers will be equal to the number of tanks.
If the station has above ground tanks, well you get the picture.
If your counting comes up one short of the number of grades sold, drop a
dime on them.
Rick

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May  1 11:57:23 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 19:57:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <4DBD8028.4080504@comcast.net>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop><0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl> <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
	<4DBD5C1B.4090804@chello.nl> <4DBD8028.4080504@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DBD9F03.5050103@chello.nl>

It is probably similar to e.g. BP excellium or whatever fancy names are 
given. The claims made are totally unproven and cannot be established.
Many have often tried to research scientifically it but all gains or 
even losses are within the accuracies of measuring equipment so not at 
all significant.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun May  1 12:10:04 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 11:10:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <4DBD8028.4080504@comcast.net>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop>
	<0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl> <4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
	<4DBD5C1B.4090804@chello.nl> <4DBD8028.4080504@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinr8t2mxw6gBfMmL0mqDg8H73WSxQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
Did you read your link?
Top tier is not an effort by the oil companies to make themselves look good,
but rather an effort by the car companies to make sure they cars can and
will stay in compliance with smog regulations over the long haul.
the problem here is if the customer goes out and buys the cheapest fuel
available, over the long haul it will hurt performance and emissions on the
vehicle.  When the car fails smog, the car maker gets the blame even though
the root cause is the shitty *coughARCOcough* gas the customer has been
purchasing.
I find it interesting to note that Chevron met Top Tier with no
reformulation of their existing fuels.
You should not find it surprising that I use Chevron in my car and
recommended it (and other top tier fuels) to my customers.
Rick

On Sun, May 1, 2011 at 8:45 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> http://www.toptiergas.com/

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun May  1 14:24:42 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 16:24:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <002c01cc0816$85974d90$90c5e8b0$@net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net> <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net>
	<002c01cc0816$85974d90$90c5e8b0$@net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=w=_9fW7KmcbCd1k8c5wC5X2n8SA@mail.gmail.com>

A cable on its way to failure can also cause bounce as the wire strands
alternately lay and unlay.

Best--Michael Oritt
-------------------------------------------

On Sun, May 1, 2011 at 11:43 AM, Rich Chrysler
<richchrysler at quickclic.net>wrote:

> Ron,
>
> I think there is probably some information in the archives on this but the
> summary of the causes of a bouncing speedometer can be two things:
>  1. the speedometer cable is kinked in some way causing it to repeatedly
> stick, wind up and let go, then stick again, etc. The best way to check for
> this is to completely withdraw the inner core and lay it on a clean flat
> surface. Bring the ends almost together in a large loop. Carefully turn one
> end while the cable is remaining completely flat on the table surface.
> Watch
> to see if the other end is lifting and flopping at all at the end or
> anywhere along its length. Ideally it should lie completely flat and turn
> smoothly.
>  2. there is excessive lubricant that has travelled up the cable and
> entered
> into the speedometer head. This is most commonly caused by oil escaping
> past
> a worn seal in the brass sleeve that the 90 degree gear drive screws into
> on
> the side of the overdrive unit. Most people don't realize that there is a
> seal within the brass drive sleeve. When worn, gearbox oil can escape and
> travel right up the cable like an auger, and enter the speedo, causing the
> problem.
> I deal only with Nissonger Instruments (long story). When they encounter
> this oil contamination problem they clean and test the unit and return it
> with a preprinted warranty label stating the problem and that it must be
> fixed on the car or their cleaning repair warranty will not be honoured.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron Ray
> Sent: 2011-05-01 9:52
> To: 'healeylist'
> Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
>
> Folks,
>
> Recently I replaced the angle drive on my 1959 3000 in hopes of eliminating
> the factory optional bouncing speedometer.
> While this did result in somewhat less bouncing, it is far from the results
> I had hoped for.
>
> The speedometer was rebuilt twice by MO MA a few years ago, after the
> initial rebuild failed to correct problems with the odometer. The second
> attempt by MO MA simply changed one odometer problem to another odometer
> problem, so I gave up n MO MA.
>
> The speedometer cable is relative new and the distance the cable extends
> into the speedometer is correct per Norm Nock's book.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>   Ron
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  1 15:03:51 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 14:03:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Steel Fuel Tank for Big Healeys
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinr8t2mxw6gBfMmL0mqDg8H73WSxQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <49856.66356.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<0CCD53440BCF418E8E2949FDBE947ABC@MikesLaptop>
	<0094EE09AB3A471BAC480595EDE69BE8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBCD51D.4050602@pacbell.net>
	<DF100F48868944BD8D29CA2D1EF7B808@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DBD17D1.4050209@chello.nl>	<4DBD5498.6050009@comcast.net>
	<4DBD5C1B.4090804@chello.nl>	<4DBD8028.4080504@comcast.net>
	<BANLkTinr8t2mxw6gBfMmL0mqDg8H73WSxQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DBDCAB7.7010609@comcast.net>

Richard,

Did you read my message?

"http://www.toptiergas.com/

It's a) a legitimate effort to qualify fuel, b) marketing BS, c) both.

I think it's all three. "


Where did I say "an effort by the oil companies to make themselves look good?"   Sheesh, I write enough stuff you can 
legitimately take issue with--you don't need to put words in my mouth.


Bob


On 5/1/2011 11:10 AM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> Bob,
> Did you read your link?
> Top tier is not an effort by the oil companies to make themselves look good, but rather an effort by the car companies 
> to make sure they cars can and will stay in compliance with smog regulations over the long haul.
> the problem here is if the customer goes out and buys the cheapest fuel available, over the long haul it will hurt 
> performance and emissions on the vehicle.  When the car fails smog, the car maker gets the blame even though the root 
> cause is the shitty *coughARCOcough* gas the customer has been purchasing.
> I find it interesting to note that Chevron met Top Tier with no reformulation of their existing fuels.
> You should not find it surprising that I use Chevron in my car and recommended it (and other top tier fuels) to my 
> customers.
> Rick
>
> On Sun, May 1, 2011 at 8:45 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     http://www.toptiergas.com/
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From barrie at look.ca  Sun May  1 15:24:02 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 17:24:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust pipes
Message-ID: <E1QGe7d-0004kE-VN@theta.look.ca>

  I have two exhaust pipes for a BJ8 (I think) which I believe were 
left over when I restored my BJ8 way back in the late 80's !

Anyone interested - photos available.

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun May  1 16:40:07 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 17:40:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust pipes
In-Reply-To: <E1QGe7d-0004kE-VN@theta.look.ca>
References: <E1QGe7d-0004kE-VN@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <4DBDE147.1050808@justbrits.com>

"Interesting" Barrie <G> !!!!
 
<< I have two exhaust pipes for a BJ8 (I think) which I believe were
left over when I restored my BJ8 way back in the late 80's ! >>

I have a pair  of down pipes for BJ-8  !!  
They just "kept on coming"<G> !!

<< Anyone interested - photos available. >>

I will have.  And I'll get Part #s also - LOL !!

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun May  1 19:16:32 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 18:16:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure relief valve
In-Reply-To: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <251097.51690.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Result is what I would expect - 70 cold should not a problem, but dont run it
at 4krpm till it warms a bit.

A coil spring exerts a pressure proportional to the compression.  So by
compressing the spring more when seated, you require a higher pressure to move
it of the seat.  You are simply moving its operationg point up the pressure
curve.

Ideal 3k rpm hot would be 55ish, 1k idle hot would be 35ish.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Sat, 4/30/11, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure relief valve
> To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, April 30, 2011, 7:16 PM
> Background: my BJ8 has run low oil
> pressure at idle for as long as I've had it. At startup I
> get 60psi, but after running on hot days I would register,
> for all intents and purposes, zero psi at idle. In spite of
> this, the engine has run and performed well for me for over
> 100K miles. I use 20W-50 dino oil.
>
> There has been a lot of discussion on the BCF about
> replacement relief valve springs being shorter than
> spec.  It has been suggested that putting washers or
> other shims or a 1/4-inch bolt behind the spring could
> increase running pressure.  I actually didn't believe
> it because AFAIK the valve is there to keep pressure from
> getting too high, and presumably would be fully closed at
> normal running pressure.  But, I was curious ...
>
> So today I pulled the relief valve and measured the spring
> at 2 & 11/32"; quite a bit less than 'spec.' So I
> installed the 1/4-inch bolt and fired her up; 70psi on cold
> start/fast idle--not too surprising. What's surprising is
> even after the engine has warmed-up--when I would normally
> see 10-20psi, before a long run in hot weather--I am getting
> 40psi. And the max pressure is still at 70psi; so the effect
> is max pressure is up 10psi, but the hot idle pressure could
> be up 10-20psi!
>
> My questions to the forum are: is 70psi too high a max oil
> pressure? Any explanations for this phenomenon? Should I
> split the difference with some shims?  Go back to the
> spring-only setup so I can sleep?
>
> Bob
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell       
>    San Jose, CA       
>     bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun May  1 19:36:49 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 01:36:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?gas?=
Message-ID: <20110502013649.4329.qmail@server278.com>

most of the stations in vegas have three grades.  i buy most of my fuel at the local sams club since it is close and about  12 cents cheaper.  they only have two grades, regular and premium.  there is only one hose on most stations in our area.  i just assumed that something inside the pump mixed regular and premium to get mid-grade.  since my bj8 tends to diesel more on regular, i have been buying mid-grade.  probably wasting my money.  hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun May  1 19:36:49 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 01:36:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?gas?=
Message-ID: <20110502013649.4337.qmail@server278.com>

most of the stations in vegas have three grades.  i buy most of my fuel at the local sams club since it is close and about  12 cents cheaper.  they only have two grades, regular and premium.  there is only one hose on most stations in our area.  i just assumed that something inside the pump mixed regular and premium to get mid-grade.  since my bj8 tends to diesel more on regular, i have been buying mid-grade.  probably wasting my money.  hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun May  1 19:49:25 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 01:49:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?speedo_problems?=
Message-ID: <20110502014925.18363.qmail@server278.com>

i have replaced a bunch of speedo cables for healeys in our club, and that is the problem most of the time.  i always take the speedo out and put it on the bench, plug a short cutoff piece of cable into the drill motor, insert the squared end into the speedo, reverse drill direction and run the speedo up to about 40mph or so.  if it is stable the problem is almost always a kinked cable or bad angle drive.  the cables hang down sometimes and get dinged, or is under a strain around the gearbox.  hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun May  1 20:03:06 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 02:03:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?gas?=
Message-ID: <20110502020306.2866.qmail@server278.com>

all of our gasoline here in vegas comes in over the pipeline from a california refinery, except for one local who brings it from phoenix by truck.  at the tank farm where it is offloaded into huge tanks, there is nothing on the tanks to deliniate which company owns them and chevron or shell, etc., takes that fuel to its stations.  the fuel is hauled to each station by and indepent truck firm(at least in my part of town).  i have no idea which company refines the oil but i find it hard to believe that when they start 10,000 gallons down the pipeline shell or texaco, etc., knows exactly when to change the valve at this end to direct the fuel to its properly labeled tank.  i have been wrong before, however, so i am only alleging that here it is all the same.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  1 20:52:22 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 19:52:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure relief valve
In-Reply-To: <251097.51690.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <251097.51690.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DBE1C66.7050606@comcast.net>

I expected the higher cold pressure, too.  What I didn't expect was higher hot at idle, because the valve should be 
fully closed (shimmed spring or not).

Bob


On 5/1/2011 6:16 PM, Robert Blair wrote:
> Result is what I would expect - 70 cold should not a problem, but dont run it at 4krpm till it warms a bit.
>
> A coil spring exerts a pressure proportional to the compression.  So by compressing the spring more when seated, you require a higher pressure to move it of the seat.  You are simply moving its operationg point up the pressure curve.
>
> Ideal 3k rpm hot would be 55ish, 1k idle hot would be 35ish.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
>
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From amalin at mac.com  Sun May  1 22:26:24 2011
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 00:26:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel expectations
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikhk9u+34Kz8C17DB8oFSog4sWk=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikhk9u+34Kz8C17DB8oFSog4sWk=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D53732A7-9749-446C-9328-B1BBE5D791B2@mac.com>

Regarding the "Humm honesty in America" remark. All of the honest American people are now working for Big Government. All the crooks were left behind in the private sector. <grin/> 


Al Malin





On May 1, 2011, at 10:34 AM, Frederich Ficke wrote:

> Here is an observation and a question? I live in an area where the town has
> one gas station and no one buys premium. Here is the reason. The pumps are
> under 10 years old and have three different nozzles. 1 for diesel and 2 for
> the unleaded , mid grade and premium, humm shouldn't there be 3 nozzles for
> the gasoline side and one for diesel since there are four types of fuel. I
> found out from an employee that one nozzle runs mid grade and premium but I
> was told don't buy premium cause there isn't any and no actual tank for
> premium but they show it and charge for it. Everyone local knows not to buy
> premium but tourist don't . Humm honesty in America. Also when looking at
> the pump there are three registers like a trip meter showing the fuel being
> drawn out of the tanks at the station 1 for diesel, 1 for unleaded, and one
> gauge for the remaining two grades. Check this out at your local gas pump
> before filling your tank!
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon May  2 01:31:03 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 00:31:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net> <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikUu-CnB92K5GYY6e3K6pvxVprU_A@mail.gmail.com>

Ron -

I would chase down the cable/kinks etc.  Also, is the cable new ?  If
so, there are several reports of new cables being wound backwards.
Not only does this bring up grease fouling from the cable, it also
causes bounce because the winding direction is in compression not
tension.

Alan

On 5/1/11, Ron Ray <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Recently I replaced the angle drive on my 1959 3000 in hopes of eliminating
> the factory optional bouncing speedometer.
> While this did result in somewhat less bouncing, it is far from the results
> I had hoped for.
>
> The speedometer was rebuilt twice by MO MA a few years ago, after the
> initial rebuild failed to correct problems with the odometer. The second
> attempt by MO MA simply changed one odometer problem to another odometer
> problem, so I gave up n MO MA.
>
> The speedometer cable is relative new and the distance the cable extends
> into the speedometer is correct per Norm Nock's book.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>    Ron
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon May  2 01:51:43 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 00:51:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel expectations
In-Reply-To: <D53732A7-9749-446C-9328-B1BBE5D791B2@mac.com>
References: <BANLkTikhk9u+34Kz8C17DB8oFSog4sWk=Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<D53732A7-9749-446C-9328-B1BBE5D791B2@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim38o=VO0=EBytCfSiMYwE9XBG8Ww@mail.gmail.com>

Way off base.  Please keep your groupthink to yourself.

Back to healeys!

On 5/1/11, Al Malin <amalin at mac.com> wrote:
> Regarding the "Humm honesty in America" remark. All of the honest American
> people are now working for Big Government. All the crooks were left behind
> in the private sector. <grin/>
>
>
> Al Malin
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 1, 2011, at 10:34 AM, Frederich Ficke wrote:
>
>> Here is an observation and a question? I live in an area where the town
>> has
>> one gas station and no one buys premium. Here is the reason. The pumps are
>> under 10 years old and have three different nozzles. 1 for diesel and 2
>> for
>> the unleaded , mid grade and premium, humm shouldn't there be 3 nozzles
>> for
>> the gasoline side and one for diesel since there are four types of fuel. I
>> found out from an employee that one nozzle runs mid grade and premium but
>> I
>> was told don't buy premium cause there isn't any and no actual tank for
>> premium but they show it and charge for it. Everyone local knows not to
>> buy
>> premium but tourist don't . Humm honesty in America. Also when looking at
>> the pump there are three registers like a trip meter showing the fuel
>> being
>> drawn out of the tanks at the station 1 for diesel, 1 for unleaded, and
>> one
>> gauge for the remaining two grades. Check this out at your local gas pump
>> before filling your tank!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May  2 01:59:13 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 09:59:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure relief valve
In-Reply-To: <4DBE1C66.7050606@comcast.net>
References: <251097.51690.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4DBE1C66.7050606@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DBE6451.7070001@chello.nl>

I suspect the spring was far to short, so short in fact that it would 
not seat the valve at all at 0psi.
This could indicate a replacement spring with far to little windings.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Mon May  2 05:15:02 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 13:15:02 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Oil
In-Reply-To: <002701cbff5d$af7457f0$0e5d07d0$@com>
References: <00cc01cbff1c$b5603760$2020a620$@ca>
	<BANLkTikGdBtjsKqLZ6Gy04qa6sZxzZYomA@mail.gmail.com>
	<002701cbff5d$af7457f0$0e5d07d0$@com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=vrXm_ekBUOSqz-ypwsGN9tDNzLw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Unfortunatly neither could I find W30 nor Redline here in Hungary. Though I
managed to find a mineral based 80/90 GL4. Any chance that it will work?

Gergo

2011/4/20 Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>

> I tried MTL and my box sprang multiple leaks; changed back to 30wt and now
> no problems.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Peter Schauss
> Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 9:03 AM
> To: PG
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission Oil
>
> My experience was just the opposite.  Shifting was considerably
> smoother with MTL.
> Shortly after I made the switch, however, I had problems with the
> overdrive dropping out.
> Replacing the o-ring in the accumulator seemed to solve the problem.
> Given the cost of MTL, however
> I decided to switch back to straight 30wt in case I had to drain the
> oil of the gear box
> multiple times in order to chase down the pressure loss issue.
>
> - Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
> On Wed, Apr 20, 2011 at 1:35 AM, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:
> > However, here's an observation..I recently switched from 30wt
> non-detergent
> > oil to Redline MTL and what I found surprised me...
> > I found that my gearbox ground going into both second and third both in
> > upshifting and downshifting.it's like the syncros can't grip.  Keep in
> mind
> > that I rebuilt the transmission last year.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May  2 06:13:32 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 14:13:32 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Oil
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=vrXm_ekBUOSqz-ypwsGN9tDNzLw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00cc01cbff1c$b5603760$2020a620$@ca>
	<BANLkTikGdBtjsKqLZ6Gy04qa6sZxzZYomA@mail.gmail.com>
	<002701cbff5d$af7457f0$0e5d07d0$@com>
	<BANLkTi=vrXm_ekBUOSqz-ypwsGN9tDNzLw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DBE9FEC.6080303@chello.nl>

As long it is not EP stuff it will work. Alternatively 20W50 engine oil 
is fine as well. There should be plenty of that in Hungary.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Mon May  2 06:35:21 2011
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 08:35:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Oil
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=vrXm_ekBUOSqz-ypwsGN9tDNzLw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00cc01cbff1c$b5603760$2020a620$@ca>
	<BANLkTikGdBtjsKqLZ6Gy04qa6sZxzZYomA@mail.gmail.com>
	<002701cbff5d$af7457f0$0e5d07d0$@com>
	<BANLkTi=vrXm_ekBUOSqz-ypwsGN9tDNzLw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <28DBFF35-0322-4BEB-B851-10B5F298A682@gmail.com>

Hi, can you find Aeroshell 80 (40 wt.) Aviation Oil? They have a line of
non-detergent type oil that is used in airplane engines.

http://aeroshelldirect.com/aeroshell_oil.asp

Places that service aircraft may have it. I have been told this will work fine
but have not used it.

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

On May 2, 2011, at 7:15 AM, Austin Healey wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Unfortunatly neither could I find W30 nor Redline here in Hungary. Though I
> managed to find a mineral based 80/90 GL4. Any chance that it will work?
>
> Gergo
>
> 2011/4/20 Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>
>
>> I tried MTL and my box sprang multiple leaks; changed back to 30wt and now
>> no problems.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
>> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Peter Schauss
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 9:03 AM
>> To: PG
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission Oil
>>
>> My experience was just the opposite.  Shifting was considerably
>> smoother with MTL.
>> Shortly after I made the switch, however, I had problems with the
>> overdrive dropping out.
>> Replacing the o-ring in the accumulator seemed to solve the problem.
>> Given the cost of MTL, however
>> I decided to switch back to straight 30wt in case I had to drain the
>> oil of the gear box
>> multiple times in order to chase down the pressure loss issue.
>>
>> - Peter Schauss
>> 1963 BJ7
>> 1980 MGB
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 20, 2011 at 1:35 AM, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:
>>> However, here's an observation..I recently switched from 30wt
>> non-detergent
>>> oil to Redline MTL and what I found surprised me...
>>> I found that my gearbox ground going into both second and third both in
>>> upshifting and downshifting.it's like the syncros can't grip.  Keep in
>> mind
>>> that I rebuilt the transmission last year.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com

From barrie at look.ca  Mon May  2 08:55:41 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 10:55:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The BCCI
Message-ID: <E1QGuYA-00065s-SG@eta.look.ca>

I started the British Car Cottage Industries, www.britcot.com, to 
showcase those enthusiasts that make stuff but do not sell enough to 
advertise or promote too much.   There are many artisans offering 
great bits and pieces and are only promoted by word of mouth.  So if 
you know of anyone who fits the bill please let me know

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon May  2 09:40:14 2011
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 17:40:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)
Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1256@dw01.ruda.local>

Hello,



are there any listers from the UK who can tell me if the company
Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)    http://tinyurl.com/5uv9upo
is still in business? I bought some time ago some parts over their
online spares shop, payed......no reply and no one answers the
telephone.



Please advise if I should bang my head and buy the overdrive parts at
another place one more timeL....





Thomas Willig

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon May  2 11:39:17 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 13:39:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)
In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1256@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1256@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <005401cc08ef$dcf6f5c0$96e4e140$@verizon.net>

Appears as if the last time their site was up graded was 2003. Many of the
site's links are broken. Soooooo.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Willig
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 11:40 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)

Hello,



are there any listers from the UK who can tell me if the company
Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)    http://tinyurl.com/5uv9upo
is still in business? I bought some time ago some parts over their online
spares shop, payed......no reply and no one answers the telephone.



Please advise if I should bang my head and buy the overdrive parts at
another place one more timeL....





Thomas Willig
_______________________________________________

From fmags at cox.net  Mon May  2 17:12:32 2011
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 18:12:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] transmission oil
Message-ID: <5D662589CA22450DABB57A0057B09925@FrankPC>

I've used Aeroshell 80 in my BJ8 gearbox for about 22 years now, and it works
great.  I tried several different oils back then, but others gave me shifting
problems.  The Aeroshell 80 is a non-detergent 40 wt (which is what the shop
manual recommends).  It works very well.  Its the only non-detergent 40 wt
that I could find.

Hope this helps,

Frank Magnusson
Wichita, KS.
'65 BJ8

<Hi, can you find Aeroshell 80 (40 wt.) Aviation Oil? They have a line of
non-detergent type oil that is used in airplane engines.

http://aeroshelldirect.com/aeroshell_oil.asp

Places that service aircraft may have it. I have been told this will work
fine
but have not used it.

Randy>

Randy Hicks

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon May  2 17:39:36 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 16:39:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed oil capacity
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=WyyRv6TvOyYdngK4o-pN4r-Xs5Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all,
Can I please get the capacity for a Toyota SR 5 and I assume it uses 90wt
oil, but is it non-detergent or not? I tried looking on the net,but was not
able to fine the specs.
Thanks,
now return to your regularly scheduled debate about Healeys......
-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR
      _______ Austin Healey 3000 _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/_______)
         (_________________________)

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May  2 18:18:42 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 19:18:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !
Message-ID: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>

John Sims' site notwithstanding [I intensely dis-like his Idle/Rev
sound track which he knows <VBG>]

THIS......................

http://www.steelwings.com/

is how it "SHOULD" "sound" <VEBG> !!!  I   *LOVE*   it !!!

HeeHee, and the motor is a "sister" of ours' !!!
Cars are also VERY KEWL !!!  <sigh>!

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
   Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
3] "Be seeing you"...at the MG Midget 50th Anniversary
   July 18-24, Elkhart Lake Wisconsin
   http://www.sprite-midgetclub.org

From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Mon May  2 18:21:13 2011
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 10:21:13 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Repairs
Message-ID: <33020CBA9BB74B83BB4C4C857A888F6F@KeithDell>

Thomas
            There is an o/d spares in Rugby not too far from Sheffield I have
dealt with them once
            and found them helpful the person I spoke too  was named Dave
            email odspares at aol.com web site www.odspares.com no personal
interest
            Regards Keith

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Mon May  2 18:50:46 2011
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 17:50:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !
In-Reply-To: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>
References: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTingfGoxMaB3TOC-v3HWJXHiZtyg8g@mail.gmail.com>

Neat site.

I don't mind the sounds on John's site. It's part of the character.

The only dilemma I face is remembering to mute my computer so that
they don't go off at work, or in the middle of the night when the
wife's sleeping. :)

Jody

On Mon, May 2, 2011 at 5:18 PM, Shop at " Just Brits "
<shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
> John Sims' site notwithstanding [I intensely dis-like his Idle/Rev
> sound track which he knows <VBG>]
>
> THIS......................
>
> http://www.steelwings.com/
>
> is how it "SHOULD" "sound" <VEBG> !!!  I   *LOVE*   it !!!
>
> HeeHee, and the motor is a "sister" of ours' !!!
> Cars are also VERY KEWL !!!  <sigh>!
>
> Ed
> 1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
> 2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
>  Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
> 3] "Be seeing you"...at the MG Midget 50th Anniversary
>  July 18-24, Elkhart Lake Wisconsin
>  http://www.sprite-midgetclub.org
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
https://www.facebook.com/pages/They-Might-Be-Racing/182813478411202
<--Follow us on Facebook!

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon May  2 18:50:55 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 20:50:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed oil capacity
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=WyyRv6TvOyYdngK4o-pN4r-Xs5Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=WyyRv6TvOyYdngK4o-pN4r-Xs5Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CDD7434B26AB69-11C4-10A32@webmail-m059.sysops.aol.com>

Ira
Assume you are asking about the Toyota "W" trans. Volume is 2.5 quarts if it
is really empty. Drain is in the bottom of the trans. Filler is drivers side
(if I remember) and use a gear oil pump to fill the trans to the bottom of the
plug threads.
Use gear oil.
Examples:
Ford 75W-90
Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL4
Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90 GL4
Amsoil MTG 75W-90
Probably a lot more

Aloha
Perry

From: I Erbs


Can I please get the capacity for a Toyota SR 5 and I assume it uses 90wt
il, but is it non-detergent or not? I

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon May  2 19:08:35 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 21:08:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !
In-Reply-To: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>
References: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <000101cc092e$bd6f10e0$384d32a0$@verizon.net>

Ed, it is a free friggin' country. If you do not like my site then stop
visiting it and stop sending the cheap shots. While most ignore your crap
and snide remarks, I do not appreciate them. If you do not like the Healey
sound on my site then turn your damn speakers off or just do not access my
site at all. And if you do not like the page size, type styles, frames or
anything else, then stay off of my site.

I really do not appreciate your pettiness nor do most people on this list.

Now flame away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits "
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 8:19 PM
To: 4 - Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !

John Sims' site notwithstanding [I intensely dis-like his Idle/Rev sound
track which he knows <VBG>]

THIS......................

http://www.steelwings.com/

is how it "SHOULD" "sound" <VEBG> !!!  I   *LOVE*   it !!!

HeeHee, and the motor is a "sister" of ours' !!!
Cars are also VERY KEWL !!!  <sigh>!

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
   Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
3] "Be seeing you"...at the MG Midget 50th Anniversary
   July 18-24, Elkhart Lake Wisconsin
   http://www.sprite-midgetclub.org

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May  2 20:12:00 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 02 May 2011 19:12:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <000f01cc0935$f54a84c0$dfdf8e40$@net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net> <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net> <4DBD8641.1040500@comcast.net>
	<000f01cc0935$f54a84c0$dfdf8e40$@net>
Message-ID: <4DBF6470.30303@comcast.net>

re: "I hope I can simply remove and reinstall the inner cable from the speedometer end of the sleeve without removing 
the transmission tunnel."

Yes, you can.


Bob



On 5/2/2011 7:01 PM, Ron Ray wrote:
>
> Bob, Rich, Allan, and list,
>
> I went back and looked at the original problem with my speedometer prior to sending it to Mo Ma for rebuilding in 
> 2005.Originally the odometer and trip odometer did not work and I am pretty sure the needle bounced.When Mo Ma 
> returned the speedometer to me the first time after replacing all major parts, they had not corrected the problems 
> even though they were specifically mentioned in my cover letter including with the speedometer.The second time Mo Ma 
> returned it to me, the odometer and trip odometer both worked.Margaret stated that the little arm that controls the 
> trip gears was not catching.However, the far left dial on the odometer (10,000) moved constantly as if it were a tenth 
> of a mile dial.The speedometer also still bouncedThat is when I gave up on Mo Ma and just lived with everything until 
> recently when I had the transmission cover off and replaced the angle drive.So, I am wondering if Bobs mention about 
> the rhythmic bouncing of the needle, which seems to be descriptive of what I observe, may be related to the 
> odometer/trip odometer gears, and if so, how might this be verified and corrected.
>
> I plan on removing the inner cable and checking it for excess oil and kinks as Rich suggested.I hope I can simply 
> remove and reinstall the inner cable from the speedometer end of the sleeve without removing the transmission tunnel. 
> I am pretty sure that is possible.I will also open up the speedometer and check for any oil inside the speedometer. 
> Since the speedometer has always bounced, I do not think that is a problem, but will check anyway.If I do fine oil in 
> the speedometer, and since the cable acts as an auger, is there a way to tell by looking at the cable if it is wound 
> incorrectly as Allan suggested?Will removing it and simply switching it end-for-end correct this?
>
> Thanks for all your help.
>
> Ron
>
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Mon May  2 20:50:50 2011
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 22:50:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !
In-Reply-To: <000101cc092e$bd6f10e0$384d32a0$@verizon.net>
References: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>
	<000101cc092e$bd6f10e0$384d32a0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <AD70E59A-D499-4FAC-BE8C-72E74A5C6D07@cgocable.ca>

Bravo John,

This  guy that you call Ed  is in big need of attention  ........

Just my 2 NPD

Gilbert
Le 11-05-02 ` 21:08, John Sims a icrit :

> Ed, it is a free friggin' country. If you do not like my site then
> stop
> visiting it and stop sending the cheap shots. While most ignore your
> crap
> and snide remarks, I do not appreciate them. If you do not like the
> Healey
> sound on my site then turn your damn speakers off or just do not
> access my
> site at all. And if you do not like the page size, type styles,
> frames or
> anything else, then stay off of my site.
>
> I really do not appreciate your pettiness nor do most people on this
> list.
>
> Now flame away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> ]
> On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits "
> Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 8:19 PM
> To: 4 - Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !
>
> John Sims' site notwithstanding [I intensely dis-like his Idle/Rev
> sound
> track which he knows <VBG>]
>
> THIS......................
>
> http://www.steelwings.com/
>
> is how it "SHOULD" "sound" <VEBG> !!!  I   *LOVE*   it !!!
>
> HeeHee, and the motor is a "sister" of ours' !!!
> Cars are also VERY KEWL !!!  <sigh>!
>
> Ed
> 1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
> 2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
>   Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
> 3] "Be seeing you"...at the MG Midget 50th Anniversary
>   July 18-24, Elkhart Lake Wisconsin
>   http://www.sprite-midgetclub.org
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca

From seven3four at hotmail.com  Mon May  2 21:29:04 2011
From: seven3four at hotmail.com (Alex Hope)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 13:59:04 +1030
Subject: [Healeys] Reproduction seat runners
Message-ID: <BAY146-W40896B4BC195F3B25F19CF999E0@phx.gbl>

I'd be interested to know of people's experience with reproductin seat runers.
Are they all the same ?  Are they good quality or rubbish ? Are they good
value at about $100 per seat ?

I have the capacity to rebuild the existing ones by welding in new studs,
re-plating and re-assembling with new bearing balls but that's a lot of work
and extra time off the road compared to fitting replacements.

Alex Hope
Australia

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Mon May  2 21:40:39 2011
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 20:40:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Washington DC area doings
Message-ID: <158110.63488.qm@web111413.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

List
    I will be in the DC area this week.  By chance any Healey events that I
might catch.  Always fun to see what the list comes up with.
Regards
Ray Juncal

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Mon May  2 21:55:36 2011
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John Homonek)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 23:55:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !
In-Reply-To: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>
References: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <C79A2CEA14984BEF9E14982349D497F3@HP20985147692>

Reading Ed's comments (or texts or whatever they are) is like going into an
outhouse on a hot summer day.  You know it's going to be bad and really
stink.  

 

On a good note, it does make good contributions great by comparison. 

 

 

John E. Homonek II

 

 

-----

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon May  2 22:02:37 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 21:02:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Reproduction seat runners
In-Reply-To: <BAY146-W40896B4BC195F3B25F19CF999E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY146-W40896B4BC195F3B25F19CF999E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00ca01cc0946$f07fcd90$d17f68b0$@ca>

Hi Alex,

I rebuilt my seat runners last week.....took about 3 hours total.

1) punched out the split pin
2) removed ball bearings;
3) drilled out existing studs
4) Taped the existing holes just drilled;
5) screwed in all thread at the desired length (I put longer all thread in
to allow the seats to recline a bit);
6) spot weld the backside of the all thread to stop it from moving.
7) reinstall.

Works great and allows you to change the cant/recline of the seat.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex Hope
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 8:29 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Reproduction seat runners

I'd be interested to know of people's experience with reproductin seat
runers.
Are they all the same ?  Are they good quality or rubbish ? Are they good
value at about $100 per seat ?

I have the capacity to rebuild the existing ones by welding in new studs,
re-plating and re-assembling with new bearing balls but that's a lot of work
and extra time off the road compared to fitting replacements.

Alex Hope
Australia
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon May  2 22:22:07 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 12:22:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Reproduction seat runners
In-Reply-To: <BAY146-W40896B4BC195F3B25F19CF999E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY146-W40896B4BC195F3B25F19CF999E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimp-mz3pCYs3hoP+x1Ef8csu4vx4w@mail.gmail.com>

Alex -

The quality is good, definitely as good as original, however the
finish is "chrome-ish" when I think it should be zinc, right?

Alan

On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 11:29 AM, Alex Hope <seven3four at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I'd be interested to know of people's experience with reproductin seat
runers.
> Are they all the same ?  Are they good quality or rubbish ? Are they good
> value at about $100 per seat ?
>
> I have the capacity to rebuild the existing ones by welding in new studs,
> re-plating and re-assembling with new bearing balls but that's a lot of
work
> and extra time off the road compared to fitting replacements.
>
> Alex Hope
> Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Mon May  2 22:54:06 2011
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 14:54:06 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] seat runners
Message-ID: <63099A168CBC467D827FC28EBC831990@KeithDell>

I fitted Reproduction sear runner in my BN1 about 2 years ago and are fine
I got them from UK Healey
   Regards Keith

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon May  2 23:14:32 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 01:14:32 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Metaphors
Message-ID: <4edb.201f5cad.3af0e938@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/2/11 9:49:35 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> ... is like going into an outhouse on a hot summer day.
>  You know it's going to be bad and really stink. 
>

Wow; how evocative is that? And now, of course, we must ask how long that
metaphor will continue to be useful. How many of you actually spent enough
time on a really hot summer day (or two weeks every summer in my case) where
you had only a well-used outhouse to use? And how old do you have to be to
remember that?
Cheers
Gary

Oh, by the way, I think that sound effects on websites were put there to
prevent us from surfing the web while pretending to take notes during a dull
day-long conference. You'd better remember to hit the mute button before you
bring up Firefox, or the speaker is going to be asking everyone to please
close their lap-tops.

Cheers
Gary

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon May  2 23:49:12 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 22:49:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Metaphors
In-Reply-To: <4edb.201f5cad.3af0e938@aol.com>
References: <4edb.201f5cad.3af0e938@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimF8MQH-xstnCB_e+F6YYVH=X-rpw@mail.gmail.com>

Scout camp every summer and most campgrounds have outhouses.

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 2, 2011 10:46 PM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 5/2/11 9:49:35 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
>> ... is like going into an outhouse on a hot summer day.
>> You know it's going to be bad and really stink.
>>
>
> Wow; how evocative is that? And now, of course, we must ask how long that
> metaphor will continue to be useful. How many of you actually spent enough
> time on a really hot summer day (or two weeks every summer in my case)
where
> you had only a well-used outhouse to use? And how old do you have to be to
> remember that?
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> Oh, by the way, I think that sound effects on websites were put there to
> prevent us from surfing the web while pretending to take notes during a
dull
> day-long conference. You'd better remember to hit the mute button before
you
> bring up Firefox, or the speaker is going to be asking everyone to please
> close their lap-tops.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May  3 03:45:05 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 02:45:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] seat runners
In-Reply-To: <63099A168CBC467D827FC28EBC831990@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <576032.76818.qm@web180106.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Is your comment in response to a past post or did you just want us to know
that
your a" happy camper today".
 
  Mark


--- On Tue, 5/3/11, Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com> wrote:


From: Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
Subject: [Healeys] seat runners
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, May 3, 2011, 12:54 AM


I fitted Reproduction sear runner in my BN1 about 2 years ago and are fine
I got them from UK Healey
   Regards Keith
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May  3 03:48:48 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 02:48:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] seat runners
In-Reply-To: <63099A168CBC467D827FC28EBC831990@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <115803.22999.qm@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Oh,  there it is.   You changed the subject line so I missed the other posts. 
Sorry bout
that.
 
Mark

--- On Tue, 5/3/11, Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com> wrote:


From: Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
Subject: [Healeys] seat runners
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, May 3, 2011, 12:54 AM


I fitted Reproduction sear runner in my BN1 about 2 years ago and are fine
I got them from UK Healey
   Regards Keith
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Tue May  3 04:13:17 2011
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 11:13:17 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)
Message-ID: <36260C815C144484AE47F335401617D0@TomVistaPC>

Hi Thomas, I spoke to them this morning and asked about the price of a 
rebuild for the overdrive on my BJ8.

They seemed to be in business and quoted a couple of weeks to turn around a 
standard rebuild on the overdrive.

 Kindest Regards

 Tom
Tom McCay - Director  Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 Washingborough Road,
 Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax)
 enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

 Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE.
 Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with
 company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

 ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Thomas Willig" <twillig at ruda.de>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 4:40 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)
>
>
>> Hello,
>>
>>
>>
>> are there any listers from the UK who can tell me if the company
>> Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)    http://tinyurl.com/5uv9upo
>> is still in business? I bought some time ago some parts over their
>> online spares shop, payed......no reply and no one answers the
>> telephone.
>>
>>
>>
>> Please advise if I should bang my head and buy the overdrive parts at
>> another place one more timeL....
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thomas Willig
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk

From bce257 at yahoo.co.nz  Tue May  3 05:21:48 2011
From: bce257 at yahoo.co.nz (Andrew Thorp)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 04:21:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Piston questions
Message-ID: <269678.68110.qm@web31001.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Everyone,

I'm part way through reassembling my BN4 engine and have a couple of questions
that somebody may be able to help with.

Firstly, I have aftermarket pistons with a second oil control ring below the
gudgeon and would like to leave it out and change to using a three-piece upper
oil ring instead of the original single piece cast iron oil rings. Has anyone
had good/bad experience running without the lower oil ring?

And secondly, I have read a few comments that 9.5:1 is a good c/r for a road
Healey on premium pump gas. I also read up a lot on 'squish' and quench and
their importance in preventing detonation. After finding my squish clearance
was very big at 0.106" I decked the block 0.067"  to get the generally
recommended ~0.035" clearance. Is anyone successfully running a Healey engine
with higher than 9.5:1 c/r on pump gas? What squish clearance does your engine
have? I am mainly interested in making it more efficient rather than go
faster, it is after all a two-port head engine.

Regards,
Andy.

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue May  3 05:40:08 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 07:40:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Washington DC area doings
In-Reply-To: <158110.63488.qm@web111413.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <158110.63488.qm@web111413.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimUid19xBB1L3QjYJ0M-TXxKk35pg@mail.gmail.com>

Ray--

There is nothing that I know of in the way of CAAHC events.  There will be
great vintage racing at Summit Point WV May 12-15 put on by  the Vintage
Racer Group and you can get more info about it by visiting the website at:
www.vrgonline.org.  If that fits into your schedule and you would like to
attend I would be happy to put you on my crewlist.

Best--Michael Oritt
-------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, May 2, 2011 at 11:40 PM, Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com> wrote:

> List
>    I will be in the DC area this week.  By chance any Healey events that I
> might catch.  Always fun to see what the list comes up with.
> Regards
> Ray Juncal
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From twillig at ruda.de  Tue May  3 07:08:19 2011
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 15:08:19 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] WG:  Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield)
Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E1260@dw01.ruda.local>

Hi,

I just got a call from home that the parcel has arrived today! BIG
RELIEF!

But nevertheless, poor service from ORS... no one answers the phone on
several different days of trying, no response to e-mails send.

Many thanks to anyone for trying to help me.

Best regards


Thomas Willig

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May  3 07:15:02 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 09:15:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Reproduction seat runners
References: <BAY146-W40896B4BC195F3B25F19CF999E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002201cc0994$1d4cbd40$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Alex,  I used a set from Moss for my BT7.   They look like a great copy but 
they need to strengthen their stud welds.   I had 2 of the studs come loose 
just from moving the seats
around a bit when I was installing them.   I suggest either an extra tack 
weld on each stud
or you can reinstall the loss ones with an extra nut to hold it in place, 
kind of a pita to get
them on but thats how I fixed my issue.   Other than that they work fine.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex Hope" <seven3four at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2011 11:29 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Reproduction seat runners


> I'd be interested to know of people's experience with reproductin seat 
> runers.
> Are they all the same ?  Are they good quality or rubbish ? Are they good
> value at about $100 per seat ?
>
> I have the capacity to rebuild the existing ones by welding in new studs,
> re-plating and re-assembling with new bearing balls but that's a lot of 
> work
> and extra time off the road compared to fitting replacements.
>
> Alex Hope
> Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Tue May  3 07:58:06 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 09:58:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !
In-Reply-To: <C79A2CEA14984BEF9E14982349D497F3@HP20985147692>
References: <4DBF49E2.4070804@justbrits.com>
	<C79A2CEA14984BEF9E14982349D497F3@HP20985147692>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=hYuVstUbn0ovMZxwkV2ke-NVRmA@mail.gmail.com>

Steelwings sound is terrible! Sounds like it was recorded in a can.
John's sound sounds like what we love to hear.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Tue May  3 09:00:11 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 10:00:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor housings
Message-ID: <027c01cc09a2$cd0c7780$67256680$@qwest.net>

I have some distributor housings that I plan to recycle. Free for shipping
if anyone needs a particular build date.

1              DM6      40532    1/56

2              DM6      40581    8/57 and 6/58

 

Herb Miller

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Tue May  3 09:52:42 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 10:52:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor housings
In-Reply-To: <027c01cc09a2$cd0c7780$67256680$@qwest.net>
References: <027c01cc09a2$cd0c7780$67256680$@qwest.net>
Message-ID: <029501cc09aa$24f925e0$6eeb71a0$@qwest.net>

Distributor housings have been spoken for.
Herb Miller

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Herbert Miller
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 10:00 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor housings

I have some distributor housings that I plan to recycle. Free for shipping
if anyone needs a particular build date.

1              DM6      40532    1/56

2              DM6      40581    8/57 and 6/58

 

Herb Miller
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Tue May  3 15:34:53 2011
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 16:34:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net> <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net> <4DBD8641.1040500@comcast.net> 
Message-ID: <003301cc09d9$f116d3a0$d3447ae0$@net>

I think this got bounced so I am resending. I am sorry if any of you
received it earlier
 
 
Bob, Rich, Allan, and list,
 
I went back and looked at the original problem with my speedometer prior to
sending it to Mo Ma for rebuilding in 2005.  Originally the odometer and
trip odometer did not work and I am pretty sure the needle bounced.  When Mo
Ma returned the speedometer to me the first time after replacing "all major
parts," they had not corrected the problems even though they were
specifically mentioned in my cover letter including with the speedometer.
The second time Mo Ma returned it to me, the odometer and trip odometer both
worked.  Margaret stated that the "little arm" that controls the trip gears
was not catching.  However, the far left dial on the odometer (10,000) moved
constantly as if it were a tenth of a mile dial.    The speedometer also
still bounced  That is when I gave up on Mo Ma and just lived with
everything until recently when I had the transmission cover off and replaced
the angle drive.  So, I am wondering if Bob's mention about the rhythmic
bouncing of the needle, which seems to be descriptive of what I observe,
may be related to the odometer/trip odometer gears, and if so, how might
this be verified and corrected.
 
I plan on removing the inner cable and checking it for excess oil and kinks
as Rich suggested.  I hope I can simply remove and reinstall the inner cable
from the speedometer end of the sleeve without removing the transmission
tunnel. I am pretty sure that is possible.  I will also open up the
speedometer and check for any oil inside the speedometer.  Since the
speedometer has always bounced, I do not think that is a problem, but will
check anyway.  If I do fine oil in the speedometer, and since the cable acts
as an auger, is there a way to tell by looking at the cable if it is wound
incorrectly as Allan suggested?  Will removing it and simply switching it
end-for-end correct this?
 
Thanks for all your help.
  Ron

From dwflagg at juno.com  Tue May  3 18:05:03 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 20:05:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Site Sounds <G> !
Message-ID: <20110503.170600.7093.213123@mailpop05.dca.untd.com>

Amazing how some will pile on without even looking.  Come on guys, Ed
posted it with tongue in cheek. Take the time to read between the lines
and don't be so quick to get "offended" !! NOTICE THE <G> IN THE SUBJECT
LINE!!


> >Reading Ed's comments (or texts or whatever they are) is like going 
> into an
> >outhouse on a hot summer day.  You know it's going to be bad and 
> really
> >stink.  
> >
> > 
> >On a good note, it does make good contributions great by 
> comparison. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >John E. Homonek II
>   
 
____________________________________________________________
Groupon.com Official Site
1 huge daily deal on the best stuff to do in your city. Try it today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dc098a4d424524471cst06duc

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Tue May  3 19:27:33 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 01:27:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed -  type of oil
In-Reply-To: <8CDD7434B26AB69-11C4-10A32@webmail-m059.sysops.aol.com>
References: <BANLkTi=WyyRv6TvOyYdngK4o-pN4r-Xs5Q@mail.gmail.com>,
	<8CDD7434B26AB69-11C4-10A32@webmail-m059.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL106-W62013A0F959D1C6D3159DAC0810@phx.gbl>

Whooooa,  I'm not an expert here, but -- I think Perry is suggesting you use
the kind of oil you put into a differential. Why don't you call the Toyota
service department. Or talk to the people at Jiffy Lube or Oil Can Henry's.
Modern transmissions use light weight oil.
Hell, the factory manual for the Austin Healey transmission/overdrive calls
for SAE 30W oil. Why are there so many people on this list that keep insisting
you should use  heavy oil in their transmissions?
My personal preference is to use RedLine MTL - but I'm a racer so I spend the
extra dollars for maximin performance.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon




> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 20:50:55 -0400
> From: healeyguy at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed oil capacity
>
> Ira
> Assume you are asking about the Toyota "W" trans. Volume is 2.5 quarts if
it
> is really empty. Drain is in the bottom of the trans. Filler is drivers
side
> (if I remember) and use a gear oil pump to fill the trans to the bottom of
the
> plug threads.
> Use gear oil.
> Examples:
> Ford 75W-90
> Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL4
> Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90 GL4
> Amsoil MTG 75W-90
> Probably a lot more
>
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> From: I Erbs
>
>
> Can I please get the capacity for a Toyota SR 5 and I assume it uses 90wt
> il, but is it non-detergent or not? I
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue May  3 20:08:26 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 22:08:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed - type of oil
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W62013A0F959D1C6D3159DAC0810@phx.gbl>
References: <BANLkTi=WyyRv6TvOyYdngK4o-pN4r-Xs5Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CDD7434B26AB69-11C4-10A32@webmail-m059.sysops.aol.com>
	<COL106-W62013A0F959D1C6D3159DAC0810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinbR7gny+X6XE2sAvQC=AYxBFK3TA@mail.gmail.com>

I agree with Richard and can only assume that people are confused by some of
the oil designations.  For example the "90" in  Redline MT 90 is NOT the
same thing as the "80w/90" as used to describe diff oils.  Heavy oils are
for differentials.  GL4 oils are appropriate for transmission "yellow
metals"--GL5 is for diffs and will destroy brass synchro's, etc.

BTW I use Redline MTL in the Toyota 5-speeds in both my Healeys and MT-90 in
the MGA box in my Elva Courier racer which IMHO provides far smoother
shifting and better synchro action than does SAE30.

Best--Michael Oritt
----------------------------------------

On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 9:27 PM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Whooooa,  I'm not an expert here, but -- I think Perry is suggesting you
> use
> the kind of oil you put into a differential. Why don't you call the Toyota
> service department. Or talk to the people at Jiffy Lube or Oil Can Henry's.
> Modern transmissions use light weight oil.
> Hell, the factory manual for the Austin Healey transmission/overdrive calls
> for SAE 30W oil. Why are there so many people on this list that keep
> insisting
> you should use  heavy oil in their transmissions?
> My personal preference is to use RedLine MTL - but I'm a racer so I spend
> the
> extra dollars for maximin performance.
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
> Portland, Oregon
>
>
>
>
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 20:50:55 -0400
> > From: healeyguy at aol.com
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed oil capacity
> >
> > Ira
> > Assume you are asking about the Toyota "W" trans. Volume is 2.5 quarts if
> it
> > is really empty. Drain is in the bottom of the trans. Filler is drivers
> side
> > (if I remember) and use a gear oil pump to fill the trans to the bottom
> of
> the
> > plug threads.
> > Use gear oil.
> > Examples:
> > Ford 75W-90
> > Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL4
> > Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90 GL4
> > Amsoil MTG 75W-90
> > Probably a lot more
> >
> > Aloha
> > Perry
> >
> > From: I Erbs
> >
> >
> > Can I please get the capacity for a Toyota SR 5 and I assume it uses 90wt
> > il, but is it non-detergent or not? I
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue May  3 20:56:12 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 22:56:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed -  type of oil
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W62013A0F959D1C6D3159DAC0810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CDD81DF5F1755E-11AC-AEE2@webmail-d084.sysops.aol.com>

Richard
I'm not an expert either on Toyota gearboxes but the Toyota Supra forum has
several related posts on the W58 Supra box and the recommendation seems to be
consistantly 75-90 wt gear oil. The list of oils that I included in the
original reply to Ira came from the forum. I agree that the best option is for
folks that have questions on the manufacturers recommendation on lubricants to
ask the dealer. I suspect I should have limited my response to the capacity
question.
Aloha
Perry

From: richard mayor
Whooooa,  I'm not an expert here, but -- I think Perry is suggesting you use
the kind of oil you put into a differential. .

Ira
 Assume you are asking about the Toyota "W" trans. Volume is 2.5 quarts

 From: I Erbs

 Can I please get the capacity for a Toyota SR 5 and I assume it uses 90wt
 il, but is it non-detergent or not?

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue May  3 21:38:33 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 20:38:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed - type of oil
In-Reply-To: <8CDD81DF5F1755E-11AC-AEE2@webmail-d084.sysops.aol.com>
References: <COL106-W62013A0F959D1C6D3159DAC0810@phx.gbl>
	<8CDD81DF5F1755E-11AC-AEE2@webmail-d084.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikkXFkJeM7AG9e0ow_2A37WOEXC2g@mail.gmail.com>

I thought it was 80wt gear oil too. That's why I asked to be sure. I guess
Ill just ask at the parts store. sorry to create strife,
cheers

On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 7:56 PM, <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

> Richard
> I'm not an expert either on Toyota gearboxes but the Toyota Supra forum has
> several related posts on the W58 Supra box and the recommendation seems to
> be
> consistantly 75-90 wt gear oil. The list of oils that I included in the
> original reply to Ira came from the forum. I agree that the best option is
> for
> folks that have questions on the manufacturers recommendation on lubricants
> to
> ask the dealer. I suspect I should have limited my response to the capacity
> question.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> From: richard mayor
> Whooooa,  I'm not an expert here, but -- I think Perry is suggesting you
> use
> the kind of oil you put into a differential. .
>
> Ira
>  Assume you are asking about the Toyota "W" trans. Volume is 2.5 quarts
>
>  From: I Erbs
>
>  Can I please get the capacity for a Toyota SR 5 and I assume it uses 90wt
>  il, but is it non-detergent or not?
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR
      _______ Austin Healey 3000 _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/_______)
         (_________________________)

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Tue May  3 21:44:34 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 20:44:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed -  type of oil
References: <8CDD81DF5F1755E-11AC-AEE2@webmail-d084.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E5C0F79@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

I find it awkward that this debate continues, ad nauseam.   I own 3
cars, manufactured by 3 separate manufacturers, all of which have the
same gear box supplier - Moss/Meadows/Jaguar.

The owner's manuals of each call for different weights of oils, yet all
3  gearboxes are the same. OD, non OD, it makes no difference.  The fact
of the matter is that a thicker/heavier weight  oil hurts nothing other
than efficiency of the box, warmup, and 10ths of a MPG down the road,
and as we have found with the Redline products, some (a lot) of leaking.

Anything short of 30wt would be a mistake, if you use redline, have your
Kitty Litter in hand, and if heavier weights, 75-90 are available, why
not.  Cheap insurance.

I use the 90wt stuff in everything, and to date, have had no lubricant
related issues.  If I used 30 Wt, I could likely report the same,  and
If I used the redline stuff, I would likely report no issues either,
with the exception of a larger than normal stain on the garage floor.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 7:56 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed - type of oil

Richard
I'm not an expert either on Toyota gearboxes but the Toyota Supra forum
has several related posts on the W58 Supra box and the recommendation
seems to be consistantly 75-90 wt gear oil. The list of oils that I
included in the original reply to Ira came from the forum. I agree that
the best option is for folks that have questions on the manufacturers
recommendation on lubricants to ask the dealer. I suspect I should have
limited my response to the capacity question.
Aloha
Perry

From: richard mayor
Whooooa,  I'm not an expert here, but -- I think Perry is suggesting you
use the kind of oil you put into a differential. .

Ira
 Assume you are asking about the Toyota "W" trans. Volume is 2.5 quarts

 From: I Erbs

 Can I please get the capacity for a Toyota SR 5 and I assume it uses
90wt  il, but is it non-detergent or not?
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Wed May  4 00:11:23 2011
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 08:11:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Article in May-June issue of Austin Healey Magazine
Message-ID: <0B49194B-748C-4402-974D-1FE84961CA7B@bornet.net>

For anyone that has seen my article in the last issue of the AHCUSA magazine.
There was an edited version published in the magazine, for space saving
reasons. For those of you that wish to see and read the article in it4s
unedited version you can now download it at the following link on my website:

http://www.concourshealeys.com/articles/

Just click the image to download the article.

I hope you will enjoy reading it.


Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Wed May  4 06:32:22 2011
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 08:32:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed - type of oil
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikkXFkJeM7AG9e0ow_2A37WOEXC2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL106-W62013A0F959D1C6D3159DAC0810@phx.gbl>,
	<8CDD81DF5F1755E-11AC-AEE2@webmail-d084.sysops.aol.com>,
	<BANLkTikkXFkJeM7AG9e0ow_2A37WOEXC2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w54C802E4C1B80955C03692B8810@phx.gbl>

You "created" strife?  That's quite the claim!  ;)


Robert Duquette

Ottawa ON Canada

1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )

1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )

1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen
)http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg






> From: eyera3 at gmail.com
>
>  sorry to create strife,
> cheers
> --
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
> IT CONSULTANTS
> Portland, OR
>       _______ Austin Healey 3000 _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/_______)
>          (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May  4 07:33:26 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 21:33:26 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Piston questions
In-Reply-To: <269678.68110.qm@web31001.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <269678.68110.qm@web31001.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinux9FvZ5TSJXPY_RjReFVAC9EagA@mail.gmail.com>

Andy -

I've never been a fan of boosting compression on a Healey.  I know
you've already decked the block so there's not much going back, but
pushing compression over 9 to 1 just really isn't all that needed in
modern times without high test fuel.  9.5 to 1 should be ok, however,
but it is at the limit of being acceptable for normal use.

With respect to the rings, I firmly believe that if you are not
racing, there is no significant value to removing rings from a 4 or 5
ring piston.  I've had 5 ring pistons in my BJ8 for almost 100 K miles
and compression is still as good as the first day I put them in.  You
get more problems for wear from using OEM Coopers air filters.  Well
in your case you are using Burgess filters so that's a good thing.
The nice thing about using the full complement of rings is I believe
it really helps reduce oil blow-by over time and helps maintain even
compression.  It shouldn't wear your cylinders any more or less than
having three rings; once the rings have set they really don't wear at
all so one or two more rings is perfectly fine.  I do like like having
the oil control ring on the lower skirt, I believe it really works
down there.  If you don't put the ring down there you should go full
monty and get proper short skirt pistons....

Hope that helps.

Alan

On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 7:21 PM, Andrew Thorp <bce257 at yahoo.co.nz> wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I'm part way through reassembling my BN4 engine and have a couple of
questions
> that somebody may be able to help with.
>
> Firstly, I have aftermarket pistons with a second oil control ring below
the
> gudgeon and would like to leave it out and change to using a three-piece
upper
> oil ring instead of the original single piece cast iron oil rings. Has
anyone
> had good/bad experience running without the lower oil ring?
>
> And secondly, I have read a few comments that 9.5:1 is a good c/r for a
road
> Healey on premium pump gas. I also read up a lot on 'squish' and quench and
> their importance in preventing detonation. After finding my squish
clearance
> was very big at 0.106" I decked the block 0.067"  to get the generally
> recommended ~0.035" clearance. Is anyone successfully running a Healey
engine
> with higher than 9.5:1 c/r on pump gas? What squish clearance does your
engine
> have? I am mainly interested in making it more efficient rather than go
> faster, it is after all a two-port head engine.
>
> Regards,
> Andy.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed May  4 07:41:01 2011
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Wed, 04 May 2011 08:41:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <003301cc09d9$f116d3a0$d3447ae0$@net>
References: <4DBCC284.8090404@comcast.net> <4DBD0DC4.7040004@chello.nl>
	<4DBD4E33.9030204@comcast.net> <ifY+Z$Aj6VvNFwjq@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<002401cc0806$fbc54fe0$f34fefa0$@net> <4DBD8641.1040500@comcast.net>
	<003301cc09d9$f116d3a0$d3447ae0$@net>
Message-ID: <20110504064129.SM01424@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Ron, I don't know if this was addressed earlier, but there can be 
another cause for needle bouncing. If the inner cable is a little too 
long, it can intermittently push the cone against the bearing 
allowing it to touch the cup occasionally and drag the needle 
mechanically rather than magnetically.

A lot of new cables seem to be a bit long. A simple test is to undo 
the speedo end, and insert a washer over the inner cable that fits 
inside the cable nut.  This has worked in a lot of cases, and maybe 
will help you.

         Peter C
-----
At 04:34 PM 5/3/2011, Ron Ray wrote:
>I think this got bounced so I am resending. I am sorry if any of you
>received it earlier
>
>
><SNIP>
>Thanks for all your help.
>   Ron
>_______________________________________________

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Wed May  4 14:38:00 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 22:38:00 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] brake lines
Message-ID: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have just started to assembe my car (hurray!). My first problem is with
the brake pipes. My car was a mess with very ugly driven pipes. Does any of
You have a set of pictures how a neat factory-like prake pipework should
look like?

Gergo

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed May  4 15:04:53 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 14:04:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake lines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=rWAR28dgs=m8gL_SzpV5RJ0yfMg@mail.gmail.com>

might be worth it to you to buy the complete photo set from bcs
www.britishcarspecialist.com


On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 1:38 PM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> I have just started to assembe my car (hurray!). My first problem is with
> the brake pipes. My car was a mess with very ugly driven pipes. Does any of
> You have a set of pictures how a neat factory-like prake pipework should
> look like?
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR
      _______ Austin Healey 3000 _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/_______)
         (_________________________)

From nelson_wd at msn.com  Wed May  4 15:29:43 2011
From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 16:29:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] brake lines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU161-w3A99B3FAE6FBB8E555F419C810@phx.gbl>

Gergo:  I had the same question and I suggest you do a search of Austin Healey
restorations on your browser;  You will find some examples.  There is also a
site (It may be on the technical archives of the AHUSA site) that has a
diagram that shows the correct alignment from the 4-way or 5-way connector
attached to the right side strut support (depending if you have a servo
unit)and running to the front wheels.  One thing I confirmed is that the flex
hose running from the caliper to the brackets attached to the chassis in front
of the shock platform runs from the top down into the bracket with the brake
tubing running across the frame crossection under the front edge of the shock
Up to the bracket to match with the flex line.  Now I purchased some fairly
expensive stainless braided flex lines off of E-bay and they were too short to
allow the flex line to be attached correctly and when the car is up on stands,
the flex hoses would have been ruptured.  I then purchased the standard rubber
flex hoses and they are sufficiently long.
Hope this helps.  bill n
> Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 22:38:00 +0200
> From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] brake lines
>
> I have just started to assembe my car (hurray!). My first problem is with
> the brake pipes. My car was a mess with very ugly driven pipes. Does any of
> You have a set of pictures how a neat factory-like prake pipework should
> look like?
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nelson_wd at msn.com

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Wed May  4 15:56:07 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 16:56:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] brake lines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4446C0FD-BC1B-4957-8C2F-D10BA74CF30C@yahoo.com>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10185785 at N02/

In my mess of picture you will find them....


Sent from my iPad


On May 4, 2011, at 3:38 PM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> I have just started to assembe my car (hurray!). My first problem is with
> the brake pipes. My car was a mess with very ugly driven pipes. Does any of
> You have a set of pictures how a neat factory-like prake pipework should
> look like?
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  4 16:21:18 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 15:21:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake lines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F87409E6-14F9-495B-B234-126F77B8D515@sbcglobal.net>

We have close up detailed photo sets showing the complete car.  
Starting with a chassis with all parts installed and now engine,  
transmission. Then the next shots are with the engine and  
transmission installed. The next set is with the finished car.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 4, 2011, at 1:38 PM, Austin Healey wrote:

> I have just started to assembe my car (hurray!). My first problem  
> is with
> the brake pipes. My car was a mess with very ugly driven pipes.  
> Does any of
> You have a set of pictures how a neat factory-like prake pipework  
> should
> look like?
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed May  4 16:45:59 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 18:45:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed - type of oil
Message-ID: <260169da.9a42.12fbd307351.Webtop.49@charter.net>

I kept silent all this while.

Normal manual tranny gear oil works just dandy in my Toyota 2wd truck 
tranny thank you.

Don't over complicate the simple stuff.  There is no magic oil just 
salesmen of what they call magic oil.


On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 5:32 AM, Robert Duquette wrote:

> You "created" strife?  That's quite the claim!  ;)
>
>
> Robert Duquette
>
> Ottawa ON Canada
>
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen
> )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: eyera3 at gmail.com
>>
>>  sorry to create strife,
>> cheers
>> --
>> Ira Erbs
>> DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
>> IT CONSULTANTS
>> Portland, OR
>>       _______ Austin Healey 3000 _______
>>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/_______)
>>          (_________________________)
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Wed May  4 17:26:59 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 19:26:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] smitty 5 speed - type of oil
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikcMDZ0+3Tj32eWkSuocUHzcUiUDw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL106-W62013A0F959D1C6D3159DAC0810@phx.gbl>
	<8CDD81DF5F1755E-11AC-AEE2@webmail-d084.sysops.aol.com>
	<BANLkTikkXFkJeM7AG9e0ow_2A37WOEXC2g@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY147-w54C802E4C1B80955C03692B8810@phx.gbl>
	<BANLkTikcMDZ0+3Tj32eWkSuocUHzcUiUDw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=Z00cGRq4z=tSjeD2stHwjzB0jMw@mail.gmail.com>

Will thisease strife? 30w engine oil and 90 wt gear oil have nearly the same
viscosity (not exactly the same, but close.) The differnce is in the
additives that will decide it's final application. If there was a 90 wt
engine oil, then yeah it would be way thicker than 30 wt engine oil. Let us
avoid a discussion as to why our trannys ended up with a motor oil
specified. My guess, it seemed like the thing to do at the time.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

On May 4, 2011 9:10 AM, "Robert Duquette" <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
wrote:

You "created" strife?  That's quite the claim!  ;)


Robert Duquette

Ottawa ON Canada

1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )

1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )

1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen
)http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg






> From: eyera3 at gmail.com

>
> sorry to create strife,
> cheers
> --

> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
> IT CONSULTANTS
> Portland, OR
> _______ Austin Healey 3000 ___...

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed May  4 19:23:59 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 04 May 2011 18:23:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] RIP Jackie Cooper
Message-ID: <4DC1FC2F.4000308@comcast.net>

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/05/movies/jackie-cooper-film-and-television-actor-is-dead-at-88.html?hp

http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/Jackie-Cooper-USA.html

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Wed May  4 20:00:36 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 19:00:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] RIP Jackie Cooper
In-Reply-To: <4DC1FC2F.4000308@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <267541.69173.qm@web161220.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Here's a link to Jackie's Spruce Green 100S, AHRS 3504. 
http://www.fourintune.com/Jackie_Cooper_100S.html  restored by Tom Kovacs for
Bill Wood .

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 5/4/11, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] RIP Jackie Cooper
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 4, 2011, 9:23 PM

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/05/movies/jackie-cooper-film-and-television-ac
tor-is-dead-at-88.html?hp

http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/Jackie-Cooper-USA.html

-- *******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Wed May  4 21:01:24 2011
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 23:01:24 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] RIP Jackie Cooper
Message-ID: <8da41.117e0eca.3af36d04@aol.com>

Quite the character ... will be missed.
Steven Kingsbury
 
 
In a message dated 5/4/2011 7:14:01 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
healeyrick at yahoo.com writes:

Here's a  link to Jackie's Spruce Green 100S, AHRS 3504.  
http://www.fourintune.com/Jackie_Cooper_100S.html  restored by Tom  Kovacs 
for
Bill Wood .

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy  Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 5/4/11, Bob Spidell  <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Bob Spidell  <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] RIP Jackie Cooper
To:  "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 4, 2011,  9:23  PM

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/05/movies/jackie-cooper-film-and-television-a
c
tor-is-dead-at-88.html?hp

http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/Jackie-Cooper-USA.html

--  *******************************************************************
Bob  Spidell           San Jose, CA      bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Wed May  4 22:04:16 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 05 May 2011 00:04:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] RIP Jackie Cooper
In-Reply-To: <4DC1FC2F.4000308@comcast.net>
References: <4DC1FC2F.4000308@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CDD8F0A2E4E307-73C-A0E0@webmail-d091.sysops.aol.com>

 I noticed the Racing Sports Cars site indicates Jackie Cooper started racing
in 1951.  I have a photo of him suited up and ready to race at the 1950 Pebble
Beach Road Races.  If someone's a member of that forum, you might want to post
this information.




 Bill Wilkman
USA
www.fourcylinderclubhistory.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeylist <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 4, 2011 8:23 pm
Subject: [Healeys] RIP Jackie Cooper


http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/05/movies/jackie-cooper-film-and-television-ac
tor-is-dead-at-88.html?hp

http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/Jackie-Cooper-USA.html

-- *******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Wed May  4 23:50:50 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 07:50:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] brake lines
In-Reply-To: <011d01cc0ad1$da3830e0$8ea892a0$@verizon.net>
References: <BANLkTimpkTs0RPmZgmRhVgApWXxvArmGtQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<011d01cc0ad1$da3830e0$8ea892a0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinyDJHbyay84uH7iwCkrfYr7NV56w@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks!

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Thu May  5 05:22:56 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 06:22:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] RIP Jackie Cooper
In-Reply-To: <4DC1FC2F.4000308@comcast.net>
References: <4DC1FC2F.4000308@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikDm57ZfFNr=rYggW+R-9xNPTGkVA@mail.gmail.com>

none of Cooper's obits mentioned his most famous part, the narrator for the
first Castrol Bonneville film.  "This is the fabulous Austin-Healey and I'm
Jackie Cooper, one of six men who drove the blue car over the Bonneville
salt flats...................."
cheers,

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 8:23 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

>
> http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/05/movies/jackie-cooper-film-and-television-actor-is-dead-at-88.html?hp
>
> http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/Jackie-Cooper-USA.html
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu May  5 11:43:51 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 10:43:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Abbott Drophead Coupe
Message-ID: <885701.61013.qm@web30304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

A 1951 Healey Abbott Drophead Coupe will be auctioned at Coys bSpirit of
Motoring b Ascotb on May 14th.B  It is lot 158 and can be found at
http://www.coys.co.uk/auction.php?itemID=643&auctionID=12
orB  http://tinyurl.com/6xbgj6w
B 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 B & '62 MkII BT7
B B B B B B B B  - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu May  5 15:29:12 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 07:29:12 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Jackie Cooper Photo
Message-ID: <C855AA9BAD9A45E58AD2F28F9D192B7D@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

I am wanting to prepare a suitable obituary on Jackie Cooper for our
magazine.

 

Would anyone have a suitable mid to high resolution photo of him and an
Austin-Healey (preferably) they would care to send me?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Thu May  5 16:34:07 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 18:34:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Abbott Drophead Coupe
In-Reply-To: <885701.61013.qm@web30304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <885701.61013.qm@web30304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinbQi2=c2sGtJsHDqP1Xx5rA0hmQQ@mail.gmail.com>

In that second picture down, what is that rope thing? A "hangin on"
rope for the passenger when cornering hard, maybe?

Bob Johnson

On Thu, May 5, 2011 at 1:43 PM, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com> wrote:
> A 1951 Healey Abbott Drophead Coupe will be auctioned at Coys b Spirit of
> Motoring b  Ascotb  on May 14th.B  It is lot 158 and can be found at
> http://www.coys.co.uk/auction.php?itemID=643&auctionID=12
> orB  http://tinyurl.com/6xbgj6w
> B

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu May  5 17:42:04 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 16:42:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Abbott Drophead Coupe
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinbQi2=c2sGtJsHDqP1Xx5rA0hmQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <327968.64337.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Sure is .... those were the days.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Thu, 5/5/11, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8 at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8 at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Abbott Drophead Coupe
> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, May 5, 2011, 3:34 PM
> In that second picture down, what is
> that rope thing? A "hangin on"
> rope for the passenger when cornering hard, maybe?
>
> Bob Johnson
>
> On Thu, May 5, 2011 at 1:43 PM, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> > A 1951 Healey Abbott Drophead Coupe will be auctioned
> at Coys b Spirit of
> > Motoring b  Ascotb  on May 14th.B  It
> is lot 158 and can be found at
> > http://www.coys.co.uk/auction.php?itemID=643&auctionID=12
> > orB  http://tinyurl.com/6xbgj6w
> > B
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu May  5 17:45:19 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 16:45:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Both Mags .....
Message-ID: <137724.47870.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Both Healey mags arrived on the same day this week - unusual.

And, one was wrapped, and one was not.

Guess which one had zero damage.....and this is summer. :-)

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 

From redingtonranch at vtc.net  Fri May  6 12:03:47 2011
From: redingtonranch at vtc.net (Don Steinman)
Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 11:03:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A1543
Message-ID: <2BE8CBB33E934782BA7B828C5EC6F869@Don>

I am looking for information on Warwick Healey roaster A1543.  I am interested
in it's wherabouts from 1982 to present.


Purveyors of trailers and livestock handling equipment
Gooseneck Trailer Mfg Co, Performance Trailers, Eager Beaver Trailers
Priefert Mfg Co,  American Farm, TomCar vehicles
Whizzer Motor Bicycles
Gas and Diesel Generators and Pumps
Trailer Parts and Accessories
Bailey Hats, Olathe and Whites Boots
Oilfield Pipe and Rod
____________________________________________________________________
Redington Land & Cattle Co.
14501 S. Taylor Pass Rd.
Bonita, Az. 85643
Ph/fax 928-828-5555
Website  www.redingtonranch.com
E-mail     redingtonranch at vtc.net

From Bob.Engdahl at bnsnet.com  Fri May  6 15:59:43 2011
From: Bob.Engdahl at bnsnet.com (Bob Engdahl)
Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 16:59:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Both Mags .....
In-Reply-To: <137724.47870.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <137724.47870.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D120D8D06476E945A128FC25DBADB57242E0CDEAD8@AURORA.BNS.local>

Ditto here.

Bob Engdahl
BNS Network Solutions, Inc.
515-967-7544
bob.engdahl at bnsnet.com
 
** This email and any attachments are solely for the use of intended
recipients.  If you are not an intended recipient, and you have received this
communication in error, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of
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please contact the sender and discard this communication.  Thank you for your
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-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert Blair
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2011 6:45 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Both Mags .....

Both Healey mags arrived on the same day this week - unusual.

And, one was wrapped, and one was not.

Guess which one had zero damage.....and this is summer. :-)

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com

_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri May  6 16:41:34 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 08:41:34 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] A1543
In-Reply-To: <2BE8CBB33E934782BA7B828C5EC6F869@Don>
References: <2BE8CBB33E934782BA7B828C5EC6F869@Don>
Message-ID: <595D9A3557DE475BBFCD407B0672C305@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Don

Not often that we receive a question on real Healeys.

Healey chassis A1543 was fitted with a Westland roadster body and according
to the Association of Healeys Owners website it is still in existence.

You have to be a member to find out any real details on cars, but there is
all sorts of information available at 

http://www.healeyowners.co.uk/

I assume that you have your eye on it?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Don Steinman
Sent: Saturday, 7 May 2011 4:04 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] A1543

I am looking for information on Warwick Healey roaster A1543.  I am
interested
in it's wherabouts from 1982 to present.


Purveyors of trailers and livestock handling equipment
Gooseneck Trailer Mfg Co, Performance Trailers, Eager Beaver Trailers
Priefert Mfg Co,  American Farm, TomCar vehicles
Whizzer Motor Bicycles
Gas and Diesel Generators and Pumps
Trailer Parts and Accessories
Bailey Hats, Olathe and Whites Boots
Oilfield Pipe and Rod
____________________________________________________________________
Redington Land & Cattle Co.
14501 S. Taylor Pass Rd.
Bonita, Az. 85643
Ph/fax 928-828-5555
Website  www.redingtonranch.com
E-mail     redingtonranch at vtc.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri May  6 18:10:08 2011
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 17:10:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] cars and coffee/Great Falls VA
Message-ID: <492990.29437.qm@web111405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

By chance are any listers going to "cars and coffee" at the Pub in Great Falls
tomorrow A.M.?  I would love to meet you.
Ray Juncal

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri May  6 18:44:43 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 20:44:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cars and coffee/Great Falls VA
In-Reply-To: <492990.29437.qm@web111405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <492990.29437.qm@web111405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003f01cc0c4f$f4f86150$dee923f0$@net>

I would but the commute will be a killer. I think I would need to have
stared out last week.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ray Juncal
Sent: 2011-05-06 8:10
To: List Healey
Subject: [Healeys] cars and coffee/Great Falls VA

By chance are any listers going to "cars and coffee" at the Pub in Great
Falls
tomorrow A.M.?  I would love to meet you.
Ray Juncal
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Sat May  7 01:47:28 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 09:47:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Polgain Ltd. Camshafts
In-Reply-To: <003f01cc0c4f$f4f86150$dee923f0$@net>
References: <492990.29437.qm@web111405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<003f01cc0c4f$f4f86150$dee923f0$@net>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D835A4646@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Does anybody have any experience using a camshaft from Polgain Ltd. UK in a
Healey? I am just considering going for a new BJ8 camshaft from Polgain and
would like to know something about their reputation. Thanks for any replies.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

From jagxk120 at gmail.com  Sat May  7 09:19:19 2011
From: jagxk120 at gmail.com (Bob)
Date: Sat, 07 May 2011 17:19:19 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Interior advice
Message-ID: <4DC562F7.1050400@gmail.com>

Hi listers,

Time to do a facelift to an old lady
Apart from your personal taste, what is the correct colour combination for a 
3000 (MkI) black paint with red flanks and red interior,
Is the top of the fascia (dashboard) black or red ?

Thx
B
HBT7L244

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat May  7 11:33:17 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 13:33:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
Message-ID: <008e01cc0cdc$da2b7000$8e825000$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
A friend is looking to replace the starter on his BJ8.  He says he has found
quite a few reconditioned starters on eBay for various British cars, but
none of the sellers can tell him if they will fit his car.  Does anyone know
if there are other British cars that used the same starter as a BJ8?
 
I know about the gear reduction option, but that isn't what he has asked.
 
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666           
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat May  7 12:00:29 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 11:00:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
In-Reply-To: <008e01cc0cdc$da2b7000$8e825000$@rr.com>
References: <008e01cc0cdc$da2b7000$8e825000$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinAB+0rHd5eu3nkpO15GgqJZrWB_g@mail.gmail.com>

Can he get the # of the starter. That is the best way to cross reference
them. I dont have the Healey # handy, but Im sure someone on the list can
supply it.

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 7, 2011 10:54 AM, "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> A friend is looking to replace the starter on his BJ8. He says he has
found
> quite a few reconditioned starters on eBay for various British cars, but
> none of the sellers can tell him if they will fit his car. Does anyone
know
> if there are other British cars that used the same starter as a BJ8?
>
> I know about the gear reduction option, but that isn't what he has asked.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat May  7 12:45:22 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 14:45:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinAB+0rHd5eu3nkpO15GgqJZrWB_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <008e01cc0cdc$da2b7000$8e825000$@rr.com>
	<BANLkTinAB+0rHd5eu3nkpO15GgqJZrWB_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00b301cc0ce6$ec346590$c49d30b0$@rr.com>

The part number on my BJ8 starter is 25578B.  There is another number M418G
which can also be found on other part number Lucas starters, but I don't
know what the number signifies.  An internet search determines that the BJ8
starter might also be used on some models of Jaguar.  Somebody out there
might know if there are other cars that use the same part number as well.
None of the eBay sellers could tell him if their starters would work for a
BJ8, thus my question to the "experts":  does anyone know for sure if
starters for other makes of cars can be used on the BJ8?
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 
 
From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 2:00 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
 
Can he get the # of the starter. That is the best way to cross reference
them. I dont have the Healey # handy, but Im sure someone on the list can
supply it.
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat May  7 13:51:20 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 15:51:20 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fascia top
Message-ID: <27aeb.241b47a9.3af6fcb8@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/7/11 11:29:01 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> Time to do a facelift to an old lady
> Apart from your personal taste, what is the correct colour combination for 
> a
> 3000 (MkI) black paint with red flanks and red interior,
> Is the top of the fascia (dashboard) black or red ?
> 
> 

The Dash top is the same color as the primary upholstery cover, with piping 
at the edges matching the piping of the seats on the roadsters. So, if your 
seats are red with black piping, that's what the dash cover should be.
Good luck.
G.

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Sat May  7 13:53:20 2011
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 20:53:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
In-Reply-To: <00b301cc0ce6$ec346590$c49d30b0$@rr.com>
References: <008e01cc0cdc$da2b7000$8e825000$@rr.com><BANLkTinAB+0rHd5eu3nkpO15GgqJZrWB_g@mail.gmail.com>
	<00b301cc0ce6$ec346590$c49d30b0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <8A745120519D4CD8B65AA7C2731702F0@TomVistaPC>

Steve from another source these appear to be the only cross reference to the 
25578 starter.

Austin Healey 100-4 (BN1, BN2)  1953, 1954, 1955, 1956
Austin Healey 100-6 (BN4, BN6)  1956, 1957, 1958, 1959
Austin Healey 3000 (BJ8, BJ7, BN7, BT7)  1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 
1965, 1966, 1967
Jaguar E-Type  1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 
1971, 1972, 1973, 1974
Jaguar MK2 Thru MK10  1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 
1968
Jaguar XJ6  1969, 1970, 1971, 1972

Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay - Director  Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 Washingborough Road, 
Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) 
enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 
Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with 
company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 starter


> The part number on my BJ8 starter is 25578B.  There is another number 
> M418G
> which can also be found on other part number Lucas starters, but I don't
> know what the number signifies.  An internet search determines that the 
> BJ8
> starter might also be used on some models of Jaguar.  Somebody out there
> might know if there are other cars that use the same part number as well.
> None of the eBay sellers could tell him if their starters would work for a
> BJ8, thus my question to the "experts":  does anyone know for sure if
> starters for other makes of cars can be used on the BJ8?
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 2:00 PM
> To: BJ8 Healeys
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
>
> Can he get the # of the starter. That is the best way to cross reference
> them. I dont have the Healey # handy, but Im sure someone on the list can
> supply it.
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 Solutions
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk 

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Sat May  7 13:54:01 2011
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 20:54:01 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  BJ8 starter
Message-ID: <2E53A29077AD410C9F9B4B0B72A5328B@TomVistaPC>

Steve, the following link shows the 25578 as being the same as the Jaguar 
2.4 & 240 from 1964 - 1969. It also shows several other reference numbers
 which are the same as the 25578.

 http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=LUCAS&Ref=25578

 I have some other resources I can check but it will be early next week 
before I can get to them.

 Kindest Regards

 Tom
Tom McCay - Director  Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 Washingborough Road,
 Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax)
 enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

 Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE.
 Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with
 company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 7:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
>
>
>> The part number on my BJ8 starter is 25578B.  There is another number 
>> M418G
>> which can also be found on other part number Lucas starters, but I don't
>> know what the number signifies.  An internet search determines that the 
>> BJ8
>> starter might also be used on some models of Jaguar.  Somebody out there
>> might know if there are other cars that use the same part number as well.
>> None of the eBay sellers could tell him if their starters would work for 
>> a
>> BJ8, thus my question to the "experts":  does anyone know for sure if
>> starters for other makes of cars can be used on the BJ8?
>>
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> Havelock, NC  USA
>>
>> From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com]
>> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 2:00 PM
>> To: BJ8 Healeys
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
>>
>> Can he get the # of the starter. That is the best way to cross reference
>> them. I dont have the Healey # handy, but Im sure someone on the list can
>> supply it.
>> Ira Erbs
>> DIGS-4 Solutions
>> Portland, OR
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat May  7 14:29:58 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 20:29:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 starter
In-Reply-To: <70049410.368761.1304799885925.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1867263672.368992.1304800198858.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Steve, 



The TR4 and TR4A, and probably the later Triumph TR3s used a starter identical to the BJ8 except for the pinion and sleeve and the part no. on the case. Must be tons of Triumph starters out there. And Morgan Plus 4 and Rover 2000. 



Source: Lucas catalogs 



The Other Ed 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat May  7 18:16:00 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 20:16:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] A1543
References: <2BE8CBB33E934782BA7B828C5EC6F869@Don>
Message-ID: <000e01cc0d15$1d3441a0$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Your asking for some personal info Don.  You may want to try a  less suddle 
approach.
Are you a regular on the list ,  I don't see any of your posts before.  What 
is your interest
in the car if you don't mind me asking?

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Steinman" <redingtonranch at vtc.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 2:03 PM
Subject: [Healeys] A1543


>I am looking for information on Warwick Healey roaster A1543.  I am 
>interested
> in it's wherabouts from 1982 to present.
>
>
> Purveyors of trailers and livestock handling equipment
> Gooseneck Trailer Mfg Co, Performance Trailers, Eager Beaver Trailers
> Priefert Mfg Co,  American Farm, TomCar vehicles
> Whizzer Motor Bicycles
> Gas and Diesel Generators and Pumps
> Trailer Parts and Accessories
> Bailey Hats, Olathe and Whites Boots
> Oilfield Pipe and Rod
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Redington Land & Cattle Co.
> 14501 S. Taylor Pass Rd.
> Bonita, Az. 85643
> Ph/fax 928-828-5555
> Website  www.redingtonranch.com
> E-mail     redingtonranch at vtc.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat May  7 20:21:31 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 19:21:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Jensen Healey for sale
Message-ID: <BANLkTinpmyjk=SU9q_MyPvwKX7EP9RXGXQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,
My friend John has a friend who is trying to sell a Jensen Healey in
Bellingham Washington.  My buddy wondered if I was interested, but I have no
time or space, but I do have to admit I am tempted.  I told him I would post
it to the list in hopes that this car can find a good home.  NFI, just
posting for a friend.
Here is the email I got, there were pictures attached, I have uploaded them
to my on line album so you can view them
here<https://picasaweb.google.com/richard.ewald/JensenHealey?authkey=Gv1sRgCLj189bBuNbhQg#>
:
https://picasaweb.google.com/richard.ewald/JensenHealey?authkey=Gv1sRgCLj189bBuNbhQg#
If anyone is interested, contact the owner.
Rick


Hi John,
Here's three pics. I'm the second owner. The car needs paint and does has
the beginings of some rust in the typical Jensen Healy places - right behind
the tires at the bottom of the fenders and the drivers side floor pan has
been replaced with new metal.
The car has about 95K on the original Lotus engine - dual Stromberg carbs.
It is a strong runner. I had a new front end put under it a couple of years
ago.
I have the flat tonneau cover, the wagon style rims currently on the car and
the original rims. The best part about the car is that it runs well and I
haven't had too much trouble with it. The clutch has gone out but there's
new one in there with about 2 or 3K miles on it. Rubber is good.
Other problems
The soft top needs to get re-stiched (spelling?) on both the front corners.
Tach is not working.
Cigarette lighter is toast
The little plastic door light cover on the passenger door is broken
And the drivers seat is ripped and more or less shot - foam is bad.
I'm sure that there are other imperfections that I've missed but these are
the obvious ones.
I don't know what it's worth. I would like to get $4000 as I've got more
than that into it - but I've had it since about 1987 or so and I've had lots
of fun with it.
However, I have some other bills to pay and I'm feeling guilty about having
it sit outside. It needs a home with someone that has the time and energy
and money and facilities to better take of it.


Best Regards,

Dan Pittsenbarger,
Managing Broker,  e-Pro
O 360-312-5857
C 360-739-9876
F 360-738-9321
dan at bellinghamhometour.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May  8 00:17:14 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 08 May 2011 08:17:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Girling brake booster
Message-ID: <4DC6356A.5040408@chello.nl>

Found this on ebay. Anyone in need of one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAKE-BOOSTER-GIRLING-SUNBEAM-JENSEN-HEALEY-VOLVO-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2e6403d2QQitemZ400210265042QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  8 07:38:00 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 13:38:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Girling brake booster
In-Reply-To: <4DC6356A.5040408@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1909423229.4841110.1304861880486.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Anyone seen this type ('2B') installed as original equipment on a Big Healey? Best I can determine, they were fit as replacements (or maybe on the very last few of the BJ8s). 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


Found this on ebay. Anyone in need of one? 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAKE-BOOSTER-GIRLING-SUNBEAM-JENSEN-HEALEY-VOLVO-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2e6403d2QQitemZ400210265042QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories 

Kees Oudesluijs 

From raymead at comcast.net  Sun May  8 07:53:43 2011
From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 13:53:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Jensen Healey for sale
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinpmyjk=SU9q_MyPvwKX7EP9RXGXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <583890453.35228.1304862823705.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I always find it amazing how many interesting cars there are in the Washington
area.......... always good looking stuff from there on ebay, for example!

ray






----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "John Woods"
<heliboy at ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 7, 2011 10:21:31 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Jensen Healey for sale

Hi all,
My friend John has a friend who is trying to sell a Jensen Healey in
Bellingham Washington. B My buddy wondered if I was interested, but I have no
time or space, but I do have to admit I am tempted. B I told him I would post
it to the list in hopes that this car can find a good home. B NFI, just
posting for a friend.
Here is the email I got, there were pictures attached, I have uploaded them
to my on line album so you can view them
here<https://picasaweb.google.com/richard.ewald/JensenHealey?authkey=Gv1sRgCL
j189bBuNbhQg#>
:
https://picasaweb.google.com/richard.ewald/JensenHealey?authkey=Gv1sRgCLj189b
BuNbhQg#
If anyone is interested, contact the owner.
Rick


Hi John,
Here's three pics. I'm the second owner. The car needs paint and does has
the beginings of some rust in the typical Jensen Healy places - right behind
the tires at the bottom of the fenders and the drivers side floor pan has
been replaced with new metal.
The car has about 95K on the original Lotus engine - dual Stromberg carbs.
It is a strong runner. I had a new front end put under it a couple of years
ago.
I have the flat tonneau cover, the wagon style rims currently on the car and
the original rims. The best part about the car is that it runs well and I
haven't had too much trouble with it. The clutch has gone out but there's
new one in there with about 2 or 3K miles on it. Rubber is good.
Other problems
The soft top needs to get re-stiched (spelling?) on both the front corners.
Tach is not working.
Cigarette lighter is toast
The little plastic door light cover on the passenger door is broken
And the drivers seat is ripped and more or less shot - foam is bad.
I'm sure that there are other imperfections that I've missed but these are
the obvious ones.
I don't know what it's worth. I would like to get $4000 as I've got more
than that into it - but I've had it since about 1987 or so and I've had lots
of fun with it.
However, I have some other bills to pay and I'm feeling guilty about having
it sit outside. It needs a home with someone that has the time and energy
and money and facilities to better take of it.


Best Regards,

Dan Pittsenbarger,
Managing Broker, B e-Pro
O 360-312-5857
C 360-739-9876
F 360-738-9321
dan at bellinghamhometour.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation B $12.75
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From britishcars at shaw.ca  Sun May  8 10:30:59 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 09:30:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Girling brake booster
In-Reply-To: <1909423229.4841110.1304861880486.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4DC6356A.5040408@chello.nl>
	<1909423229.4841110.1304861880486.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <005d01cc0d9d$505e36c0$f11aa440$@ca>

My BJ8 is one of the last off the line and it does not have this version.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2011 6:38 AM
To: Oudesluys
Cc: 4 - Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling brake booster

Anyone seen this type ('2B') installed as original equipment on a Big
Healey? Best I can determine, they were fit as replacements (or maybe on the
very last few of the BJ8s). 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


Found this on ebay. Anyone in need of one? 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAKE-BOOSTER-GIRLING-SUNBEAM-JENSEN-HEALEY-V
OLVO-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2e6403d2QQitemZ400210265042QQptZVintageQ5
fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories 

Kees Oudesluijs 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun May  8 18:24:34 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 20:24:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Interior advice
In-Reply-To: <4DC562F7.1050400@gmail.com>
References: <4DC562F7.1050400@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004f01cc0ddf$79137c50$6b3a74f0$@net>

It would always be red with red demister vents, black piping along edges
beside scuttle seals. This red interior would have black accent piping on
all the seats, arm rest and rear squab panel as well.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: 2011-05-07 11:19
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Interior advice

Hi listers,

Time to do a facelift to an old lady
Apart from your personal taste, what is the correct colour combination for a

3000 (MkI) black paint with red flanks and red interior,
Is the top of the fascia (dashboard) black or red ?

Thx
B
HBT7L244
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Feb11 022.jpg]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun May  8 19:19:40 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 21:19:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Girling brake booster
In-Reply-To: <1909423229.4841110.1304861880486.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4DC6356A.5040408@chello.nl>
	<1909423229.4841110.1304861880486.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <005301cc0de7$2bcacfe0$83606fa0$@net>

Bob, 

This Girling booster appears to have the same identical body portion but the
vacuum chamber appears to be a smaller diameter than original.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 2011-05-08 9:38
To: Oudesluys
Cc: 4 - Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling brake booster

Anyone seen this type ('2B') installed as original equipment on a Big
Healey? Best I can determine, they were fit as replacements (or maybe on the
very last few of the BJ8s). 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


Found this on ebay. Anyone in need of one? 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAKE-BOOSTER-GIRLING-SUNBEAM-JENSEN-HEALEY-V
OLVO-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2e6403d2QQitemZ400210265042QQptZVintageQ5
fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories 

Kees Oudesluijs 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun May  8 19:23:35 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 21:23:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need Help on this    A1543
Message-ID: <000901cc0de7$b7e0a0e0$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Too long first time, trying again

> This gentleman would like some assistance on a pretty interesting 
> situation. Can anyone
> be of some help?
> Please read below.
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Don Steinman" <redingtonranch at vtc.net>

>
>> Mark:     I appreciate your candor.
>> Back in the early 1970's I owned the vehicle.  I still have the title. 
>> from Pennsylvania.  I sold my home in suburban Philly and moved to 
>> Arizona.  The new owner of the home said that he would let me leave the 
>> car in the barn until I could get it.  At that point(1982)  the body was 
>> all there but in pieces.  I had the engine running well and brakes and so 
>> on.  When my son went to get the car he was told that they had no idea as 
>> to what happened to it.  Meanwhile it recently surfaced  in Bonita, Ca. 
>> The period from 1982 until recent has me curious.  I know that it was in 
>> Florida (Genivere Judge) in 2000 but that is all I know.
>>
>> During the 1970's and early 80's I was listed as the owner of record in 
>> the Registry of The Healey owners Association in England and received a 
>> lot of help from the Hunters in England.
>>
>> The reason that you have never seen my name in the postings is that I 
>> only became a member last week.  My goal is to track the car.  I do not 
>> have any real good reason to do so but I do know where it is now.  I am 
>> 71 yrs old and have a lot of time so this research project could prove 
>> interesting.
>>
>> I also know that it was at one time owned by one of the Chiltons and it 
>> came from California to Delaware.  I acquired it in 1974 when I purchased 
>> it and dug it out of the Delaware mud.  When it arrived in my yard it 
>> promptly collapsed.  The body just let go and dropped to the ground 
>> around the frame. I knew that I had a piece of history in  my barn.  I 
>> believe that it is the car pictured in Healeys and Austin Healeys with 
>> Donald Healey behind the wheel on a Hollywood movie set.  I also heard 
>> but have no proof that Superman drove it in a very early movie.  Back in 
>> the late 40's there were six Westlands in this country.  In the 75 I 
>> found another in Puyallup, Washington. It was owned by a man named 
>> Shinstine.  I was never able to find the other four.  In 1982 throughout 
>> the World 24 of the original Westland roadsters were known to exist.
>>
>> I hope that this answers most of your questions.  I like to know some of 
>> the history on things.  I am presently restoring a 1919 Mack AC and have 
>> it's early history.  I hope to piece together it's travels as well.  Once 
>> again I am getting help from England.
>>
>> When the Mack is done I may consider my dream sportscar, a Healey 3000. 
>> Probably not in my financial reach but I never thought The Mack would be 
>> either
>>
>> If you can be of any help in my quest it would be appreciated.
>>
>> Don Steinman

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun May  8 20:05:51 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 10:05:51 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Girling brake booster
In-Reply-To: <005301cc0de7$2bcacfe0$83606fa0$@net>
References: <4DC6356A.5040408@chello.nl>
	<1909423229.4841110.1304861880486.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<005301cc0de7$2bcacfe0$83606fa0$@net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinsODa7bOAUuE8KZTbAiJRiL5SoMg@mail.gmail.com>

Rich is right.

Girling at the time commonly made two sizes of vacuum canister, this
is the smaller one that they used on Sunbeam tigers and the like.  I
don't think this is the same as the Mk IIA Girling booster that they
sold as a replacement for Mk IIIs.

Alan

On Mon, May 9, 2011 at 9:19 AM, Rich Chrysler
<richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> This Girling booster appears to have the same identical body portion but
the
> vacuum chamber appears to be a smaller diameter than original.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: 2011-05-08 9:38
> To: Oudesluys
> Cc: 4 - Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling brake booster
>
> Anyone seen this type ('2B') installed as original equipment on a Big
> Healey? Best I can determine, they were fit as replacements (or maybe on
the
> very last few of the BJ8s).
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
> Found this on ebay. Anyone in need of one?
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAKE-BOOSTER-GIRLING-SUNBEAM-JENSEN-HEALEY-V
>
OLVO-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2e6403d2QQitemZ400210265042QQptZVintageQ5
> fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From powellinsac at yahoo.com  Mon May  9 05:02:58 2011
From: powellinsac at yahoo.com (Frank Powell)
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 04:02:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Nice Present
Message-ID: <467335.40996.qm@web111303.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Here's an amazing thing http://goo.gl/XsCHC Check it!

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May  9 08:16:52 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 09 May 2011 09:16:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Nice Present
In-Reply-To: <467335.40996.qm@web111303.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <467335.40996.qm@web111303.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DC7F754.6080801@justbrits.com>

Anybody that can call Frank ??

He has been hijacked <F> !!









]

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Mon May  9 08:45:25 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 16:45:25 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Girling brake booster
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18.1304877602.14427.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7C19DC429C544BAFA49911F96E80D476@TM1>

I think that this particular seller also sells the earlier version of the
servo.

If you are out for one, I would be particularly careful, as all these servos
are rebuild with the original aluminum core. 

If the rebuild process is decent, then the pressure cylinder is re-sleeved. 
Ideally, the control cylinder should also be resleved, although I have never
seen one doing this. 

Also, the vacuum cylinder should be taken care of: there are modern seals
now for the vacuum piston.

The parts here are rather expensive..

On top, once you rebuild it, you should test it for leaks.

Procedure is here:
http://volvo1800pictures.com/document/Service_manual_jack/part_5_brakes_disc
_brakes/part_5_brakes_disc_brakes.pdf

I have build a test rig, that does not fulfill all the necessary tests, but
it will definitely give you an idea if the servo is working:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Volvo1800S/GirlingServoTesting#

I have rebuild 2 with it, and one of them for some reason had a significant
vacuum leak at first.

Tadek

From kags at shaw.ca  Mon May  9 09:31:54 2011
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 08:31:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Girling brake booster
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinsODa7bOAUuE8KZTbAiJRiL5SoMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4DC6356A.5040408@chello.nl>
	<1909423229.4841110.1304861880486.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<005301cc0de7$2bcacfe0$83606fa0$@net>
	<BANLkTinsODa7bOAUuE8KZTbAiJRiL5SoMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5FFAF6BD623E44AEB50E29F3A6773F68@KagsLaptop>

I have been under the impression that this smaller Girling booster was used 
on the earlier (optional) booster equipped Healeys with the type 14 brake 
calliper and the smaller master cyl. - ie: some BT / BN7's, some BJ7's, and 
the very early BJ8's.  When the change was made on the BJ8 to the later type 
16 calliper along with the larger master cyl, the servo was changed to the 
larger cannister version.

I could be wrong about all of this, but I remember researching it when 
choosing the correct size PBR booster for my BJ8, and becoming familiar with 
the data on brake force enhancement with the various models available.  I 
remember at that time one of our fellow listers - in Australia I believe - 
installed the late booster on his earlier Healey and wasn't happy with it's 
performance until he added the later calliper set-up.


Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Alan Seigrist
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2011 7:05 PM
To: Rich Chrysler
Cc: 4 - Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling brake booster

Rich is right.

Girling at the time commonly made two sizes of vacuum canister, this
is the smaller one that they used on Sunbeam tigers and the like.  I
don't think this is the same as the Mk IIA Girling booster that they
sold as a replacement for Mk IIIs.

Alan

On Mon, May 9, 2011 at 9:19 AM, Rich Chrysler
<richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> This Girling booster appears to have the same identical body portion but
the
> vacuum chamber appears to be a smaller diameter than original.
>
> Rich

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon May  9 15:38:08 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 14:38:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Ken Freese: AH 100S
Message-ID: <172089.16681.qm@web120519.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Does anyone know where I can contact Ken Freese who a few years ago did a
registry of the 100's ??

Thanks

Jose
 Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571)
321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota,
Colombia

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon May  9 15:47:01 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 09 May 2011 17:47:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ken Freese: AH 100S
In-Reply-To: <172089.16681.qm@web120519.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <172089.16681.qm@web120519.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009801cc0e92$a156b4d0$e4041e70$@verizon.net>

Last email address that I have his:

Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com

Note that it is an email address for him at a company so if he has retired,
then . . . . . . . . .


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Josi Vicente Vargas
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2011 5:38 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Ken Freese: AH 100S

Does anyone know where I can contact Ken Freese who a few years ago did a
registry of the 100's ??

Thanks

Jose
 Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571)
321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota,
Colombia
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From slomo100 at sisna.com  Mon May  9 21:01:27 2011
From: slomo100 at sisna.com (John Morrison)
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 21:01:27 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] What is the proper thread form for the studs on a 100M
 balance tube connection.
Message-ID: <BANLkTin1Q2NHVnDr5UsrJZ24wONUvB42Pw@mail.gmail.com>

I don't like the feel of a 1/4-28 nut on these studs.

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon May  9 21:11:41 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 20:11:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What is the proper thread form for the studs on a
 100M balance tube connection.
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTin1Q2NHVnDr5UsrJZ24wONUvB42Pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTin1Q2NHVnDr5UsrJZ24wONUvB42Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <169982DB-98F0-48CC-83B6-AD7F21BDEB23@sbcglobal.net>

The are 1/4 26 BSF nuts

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On May 9, 2011, at 8:01 PM, John Morrison wrote:

> I don't like the feel of a 1/4-28 nut on these studs.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From CAWS52803 at aol.com  Tue May 10 07:17:07 2011
From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 09:17:07 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Half Healey trailer
Message-ID: <110bbb.4abc9bc8.3afa94d3@aol.com>

For Sale: A half Healey trailer.  Great for long trips, parades or as a 
support vehicle.  Email for details and pictures if seriously interested.  Rudy 
in NC                                                         

From akronzips at aol.com  Tue May 10 08:13:01 2011
From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 10:13:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Half Healey Trailer
Message-ID: <8CDDD33817C0451-11D0-5E9B@webmail-m141.sysops.aol.com>

I'm very interested in your Half Healey trailer. I'm in Ohio is it on the east
coast or west coast? What year is the trailer?
I'm also looking for a hardtop BT7 2+2
Howard
 akronzips at aol.com
1961 BT7     330-927-1876

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue May 10 09:51:15 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 11:51:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Half Healey trailer
In-Reply-To: <110bbb.4abc9bc8.3afa94d3@aol.com>
References: <110bbb.4abc9bc8.3afa94d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00f301cc0f2a$18733bf0$4959b3d0$@verizon.net>

Photo, description, asking price and contact information is on the "For
Sale" page of my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CAWS52803 at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2011 9:17 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Half Healey trailer

For Sale: A half Healey trailer.  Great for long trips, parades or as a
support vehicle.  Email for details and pictures if seriously interested.
Rudy
in NC
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue May 10 10:45:26 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 18:45:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Heat shield
Message-ID: <BANLkTikpqKS6WBizoLwjSVv42tE4xYhRWg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I have just recived my new heat shield kit - unfortunatly in more than
enough pieces. Thank You DHL!
Does any of You know if the heat shields were made of calcium silicate?

Thanks:
Gergo

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue May 10 10:55:20 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 09:55:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heat shield
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikpqKS6WBizoLwjSVv42tE4xYhRWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikpqKS6WBizoLwjSVv42tE4xYhRWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimqZM=_hE=x7zvbMUPZV-kZbzFHvA@mail.gmail.com>

originals were asbestos. A lot of folks in the states use concrete backer
board for bathroom tile installations. We get at it a large stores like Home
Depot or Lowes. Any good remodel supply store would carry it.

On Tue, May 10, 2011 at 9:45 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have just recived my new heat shield kit - unfortunatly in more than
> enough pieces. Thank You DHL!
> Does any of You know if the heat shields were made of calcium silicate?
>
> Thanks:
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR

We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 10 14:51:58 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 16:51:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heat shield
References: <BANLkTikpqKS6WBizoLwjSVv42tE4xYhRWg@mail.gmail.com>
	<BANLkTimqZM=_hE=x7zvbMUPZV-kZbzFHvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801cc0f54$1bb07380$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Hardie backer board.  It has squares on one side.  Use the other side as the 
outside.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2011 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat shield


> originals were asbestos. A lot of folks in the states use concrete backer
> board for bathroom tile installations. We get at it a large stores like 
> Home
> Depot or Lowes. Any good remodel supply store would carry it.
>
> On Tue, May 10, 2011 at 9:45 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have just recived my new heat shield kit - unfortunatly in more than
>> enough pieces. Thank You DHL!
>> Does any of You know if the heat shields were made of calcium silicate?
>>
>> Thanks:
>> Gergo
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
> IT CONSULTANTS
> Portland, OR
>
> We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> thinking we used when we created them.
>                                           -Albert Einstein
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From rplindsay at comcast.net  Tue May 10 15:27:54 2011
From: rplindsay at comcast.net (rplindsay at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 21:27:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Differential
In-Reply-To: <915468319.34865.1305062740872.JavaMail.root@sz0167a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1750809011.34991.1305062874134.JavaMail.root@sz0167a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I am in need of a differential/pumpkin for a 67 BJ8.B  Does anyone have one
for sale or know where I can get one?

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

From powellinsac at yahoo.com  Wed May 11 00:11:05 2011
From: powellinsac at yahoo.com (Frank Powell)
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 23:11:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] powellinsac
Message-ID: <716398.12346.qm@web111302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

http://worldpodiumru.122.com1.ru/poi8.html

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed May 11 01:03:25 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 02:03:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] powellinsac
In-Reply-To: <716398.12346.qm@web111302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <716398.12346.qm@web111302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DCA34BD.70304@justbrits.com>

/5ybv21: Permission denied

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed May 11 01:13:58 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 02:13:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re:  powellinsac]
Message-ID: <4DCA3736.50303@justbrits.com>

ROTTEN html <G> !!

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Re: [Healeys] powellinsac
Date: 	Wed, 11 May 2011 02:03:25 -0500
From: 	Shop at " Just Brits " <shop at justbrits.com>
To: 	Frank Powell <powellinsac at yahoo.com>
CC: 	grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net, jaym at sandsmachine.com, 
healeys at autox.team.net, spftransfer2 at sbcglobal.net, 
letters at worldnetdaily.com, tim at healey.org, newsletter at gearztv.com
References: 	<716398.12346.qm at web111302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>



Don't click on Frank's Link.  CA Pharmacy.

He's been hijacked AND so NOTIFIED !

Ed

From thehealeyguy at gmail.com  Wed May 11 03:27:45 2011
From: thehealeyguy at gmail.com (Bob Abbott)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 05:27:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone know of a good article for how to rewire a generator car to work with
an alternator?
Thanks
Bob

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May 11 04:11:30 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 18:11:30 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTin_gzGKebaeXP60YOe4jeF4-dv8+g@mail.gmail.com>

Without question one of the best articles on the web on this subject
is from MGA Guru.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/ac101.htm

mossmotors also has a nice model-specific conversion sheet, but it
will be the same for your car unless you have a BJ8.  If you have a
BJ8, the wiring is still the same, just follow the logic on using the
control box as a junction box.

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/130-078MGA.pdf

Regards,

Alan

On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 5:27 PM, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:
> Anyone know of a good article for how to rewire a generator car to work
with
> an alternator?
> Thanks
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com  Wed May 11 04:17:35 2011
From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 03:17:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
Message-ID: <356022.1408.qm@web120112.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

in the process of installing my original trans and am not sure about the switch on the top near the shifter it has 2 connections what gets attachet to it any pics would help 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 11 06:26:37 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 05:26:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <539835.72721.qm@web180106.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Many postings on John Simms web sight.   

--- On Wed, 5/11/11, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, May 11, 2011, 5:27 AM


Anyone know of a good article for how to rewire a generator car to work with
an alternator?
Thanks
Bob
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 11 06:59:37 2011
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 07:59:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>

Although not a cup holder, perhaps this is what some have been looking for
to improve once again on the design of their Healey.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543&
viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123>
&item=270747574543&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
 
Ron

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Wed May 11 07:10:23 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 09:10:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
In-Reply-To: <356022.1408.qm@web120112.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <356022.1408.qm@web120112.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim4h=Td49KadhtNVOrCyiafYp74nQ@mail.gmail.com>

It sounds like the overdrive isolation switch.  IIRC it should be
connected to the overdrive relay and the solenoid.  Its purpose is to
disconnect the solenoid when the gearbox is not in 3rd or 4th gear.

HTH,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 6:17 AM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> in the process of installing my original trans and am not sure about the
switch on the top near the shifter it has 2 connections what gets attachet to
it any pics would help
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss at gmail.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed May 11 07:22:15 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 08:22:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
Message-ID: <4DCA8D87.4050507@justbrits.com>

Removed ?!?!?

"what" was "it", Ron ??

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 11 08:12:52 2011
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 09:12:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <4DCA8D87.4050507@justbrits.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net> <4DCA8D87.4050507@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <006601cc0fe5$8480e930$8d82bb90$@net>

Here is the link again:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543&v
iewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123

Ron



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits "
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 8:22 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom accessory

Removed ?!?!?

"what" was "it", Ron ??

From rmemler at gmail.com  Wed May 11 08:48:07 2011
From: rmemler at gmail.com (Robert Memler)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 10:48:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 wipers
Message-ID: <BANLkTimurLrO27EpE44ppc8PdD5X9rpcLw@mail.gmail.com>

My BN1 wipers fit onto a smooth knob such that when the wipers are activated
the knob turns but the wipers stay stationary. Has anyone had this problem
and how did you resolve it.
Thanks, Bob Memler

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Wed May 11 09:01:37 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 11:01:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <006601cc0fe5$8480e930$8d82bb90$@net>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net> <4DCA8D87.4050507@justbrits.com>
	<006601cc0fe5$8480e930$8d82bb90$@net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinMBR7R4nZ2R0s1D3-cXUmq3uS-4g@mail.gmail.com>

I assume these must be for the earlier cars (50s production) as they
were pretty well gone by the 60s ;^)

Bob Johnson
BJ8

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543&v

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed May 11 09:03:53 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 15:03:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
Message-ID: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List,



I have two engine stands, 3 wheelers, that I've used for 4 cylinder engines,
but am hesitant to use for that 6 cylinder Healey.B  What have others used for
the Big Healey engine?



Thanks,



Ed Woods

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 11 09:19:36 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 08:19:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
Message-ID: <h6als69hmg06pgu19c7gp87ubpb4m34lcu@4ax.com>

If you had a right-hand drive car, you wouldn't need it ;-)
-Roland

On Wed, 11 May 2011 07:59:37 -0500, you wrote:

::Although not a cup holder, perhaps this is what some have been looking for
::to improve once again on the design of their Healey.
::
::http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
::<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543
&
::viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123>
::&item=270747574543&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
::
::Ron

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Wed May 11 09:26:21 2011
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 08:26:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <4DCA8D87.4050507@justbrits.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net> <4DCA8D87.4050507@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <207363.95363.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Try this.

http://tinyurl.com/67f7epg 



________________________________
From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, May 11, 2011 9:22:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom accessory

Removed ?!?!?

"what" was "it", Ron ??
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Wed May 11 10:01:14 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 11:01:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <h6als69hmg06pgu19c7gp87ubpb4m34lcu@4ax.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
	<h6als69hmg06pgu19c7gp87ubpb4m34lcu@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinYBbCoaBg7cdU6wnKY+NNn2FQijw@mail.gmail.com>

..........or if you park on the wrong side of the street........

On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 10:19 AM, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> If you had a right-hand drive car, you wouldn't need it ;-)
> -Roland
>
> On Wed, 11 May 2011 07:59:37 -0500, you wrote:
>
> ::Although not a cup holder, perhaps this is what some have been looking
> for
> ::to improve once again on the design of their Healey.
> ::
> ::http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
> ::<
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543
> &
> ::viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123>
> ::&item=270747574543&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
> ::
> ::Ron
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 11 10:33:56 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 09:33:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
In-Reply-To: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.west
	chester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110511093343.02063378@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I built one with 4x6 and 4x4 lumber (scrapes I had) and used steel 
wheels. I had at first used plastic wheels rated at 250 pounds each 
but they would not roll easily. The steel wheels have a higher load rating.

John

At 03:03 PM 5/11/2011 +0000, you wrote:
>List,
>I have two engine stands, 3 wheelers, that I've used for 4 cylinder engines,
>but am hesitant to use for that 6 cylinder Healey.B  What have others used for
>the Big Healey engine?
>Thanks,
>Ed Woods

From robertlarson at att.net  Wed May 11 10:51:51 2011
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 12:51:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinYBbCoaBg7cdU6wnKY+NNn2FQijw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
	<h6als69hmg06pgu19c7gp87ubpb4m34lcu@4ax.com>
	<BANLkTinYBbCoaBg7cdU6wnKY+NNn2FQijw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DCABEA7.2020303@att.net>

Or in new York City where the streets are usually one way and with parking on 
both sides you need two sets....

Bob

On 5/11/2011 12:01 PM, jerry wall wrote:
> ..........or if you park on the wrong side of the street........
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 10:19 AM, Roland Wilhelmy<rwil at sbcglobal.net>wrote:
>
>> If you had a right-hand drive car, you wouldn't need it ;-)
>> -Roland
>>
>> On Wed, 11 May 2011 07:59:37 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>> ::Although not a cup holder, perhaps this is what some have been looking
>> for
>> ::to improve once again on the design of their Healey.
>> ::
>> ::http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
>> ::<
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543
>> &
>> ::viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123>
>> ::&item=270747574543&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
>> ::
>> ::Ron

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 11 11:25:34 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 10:25:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C5A75A6E-59A9-4ACB-8B98-472080201429@sbcglobal.net>

We have all the wiring instructions in the kit for all the Healey's




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 11, 2011, at 2:27 AM, Bob Abbott wrote:

> Anyone know of a good article for how to rewire a generator car to  
> work with
> an alternator?
> Thanks
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed May 11 11:38:40 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 13:38:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
In-Reply-To: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DCAC9A0.6060704@comcast.net>

Ed,
When I did my 3000 engine I did use the three wheeled type of engine 
stand.  It was quite scary, but if you are very careful, it can be 
done.  They are rated for that much weight, but when turning the engine, 
you need to make sure that it is done slowly and supported so that the 
weight stays centered on the single wheel below.
Another concern is if you are moving it around the shop that a wheel 
doesn't not hit a stone or something on the floor and stop abruptly and 
the weight of the engine take the whole thing over.  It is very top heavy.
Charlie

On 5/11/2011 11:03 AM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
> List,
>
>
>
> I have two engine stands, 3 wheelers, that I've used for 4 cylinder engines,
> but am hesitant to use for that 6 cylinder Healey.B  What have others used for
> the Big Healey engine?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed May 11 11:44:58 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 10:44:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <4DCABEA7.2020303@att.net>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com><003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net><h6als69hmg06pgu19c7gp87ubpb4m34lcu@4ax.com><BANLkTinYBbCoaBg7cdU6wnKY+NNn2FQijw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DCABEA7.2020303@att.net>
Message-ID: <BACE7AA76B4548669ECFC7CF80F34C97@LeonardPCPC>

Actually, you will need four sets if you are subject to parking on either 
side of the street -  on front fenders to protect the front tires if you are 
pulling in driving forward and on the rear fenders to protect the rear tires 
if you are backing into a parking space .   Or save your money and only park 
diagonally or parallel next to rolled or no curbs.   :-)

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <robertlarson at att.net>
To: "jerry wall" <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>; "Healey List" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom accessory


> Or in new York City where the streets are usually one way and with parking 
> on both sides you need two sets....
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/11/2011 12:01 PM, jerry wall wrote:
>> ..........or if you park on the wrong side of the street........
>>
>> On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 10:19 AM, Roland 
>> Wilhelmy<rwil at sbcglobal.net>wrote:
>>
>>> If you had a right-hand drive car, you wouldn't need it ;-)
>>> -Roland
>>>
>>> On Wed, 11 May 2011 07:59:37 -0500, you wrote:
>>>
>>> ::Although not a cup holder, perhaps this is what some have been looking
>>> for
>>> ::to improve once again on the design of their Healey.
>>> ::
>>> ::http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
>>> ::<
>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543
>>> &
>>> ::viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123>
>>> ::&item=270747574543&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
>>> ::
>>> ::Ron
> _______________________________________________

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Wed May 11 11:47:33 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 10:47:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
In-Reply-To: <C5A75A6E-59A9-4ACB-8B98-472080201429@sbcglobal.net>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<C5A75A6E-59A9-4ACB-8B98-472080201429@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <56707.32752.qm@web120510.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

holden sells an alternator stuck into a lucas dynamo, that looks exactly as a
dynamo.
 Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288
3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota, Colombia
________________________________
From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed,
May 11, 2011 12:25:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator

We
have all the wiring instructions in the kit for all the Healey's




David
Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 11, 2011, at 2:27 AM, Bob Abbott
wrote:

> Anyone know of a good article for how to rewire a generator car to
> work with
> an alternator?
> Thanks
> Bob
>
_______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
>
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed May 11 12:35:09 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 11:35:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
Message-ID: <01c301cc100a$2b0c1030$81243090$@com>

Bob,

Link to my article advocating use of smaller Denso alternator with Hendrix
kit - vs large GM alternator.

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Alternator1.pdf

 

There are several articles at the site.

 

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 

From: Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>

Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator

To: healeys at autox.team.net

Date: Wednesday, May 11, 2011, 5:27 AM

 

 

Anyone know of a good article for how to rewire a generator car to work with

an alternator?

Thanks

Bob

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< 

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From barrie at look.ca  Wed May 11 14:55:19 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 16:55:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
In-Reply-To: <56707.32752.qm@web120510.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<C5A75A6E-59A9-4ACB-8B98-472080201429@sbcglobal.net>
	<56707.32752.qm@web120510.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E1QKGSi-000701-N1@eta.look.ca>

Try this bloke - he did a great job on my starter
and generator for my '55 Aston

Gerald (Jerry) Felper
British Auto electric
2722 E Carnival Ave
Anaheim, CA 92806
felperg at earthlink.net



At 01:47 PM 5/11/2011, Josi Vicente Vargas wrote:
>holden sells an alternator stuck into a lucas dynamo, that looks exactly as
a
>dynamo.
>  Josi Vicente Vargas
>Musmi
>
>
>Tel. (571) 321 3740
>Cel. (57) 311 288
>3401
>Skype: jovivago
>
>
>www.musme.net
>
>
>Bogota, Colombia
>________________________________
>From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>To: Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>
>Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>Sent: Wed,
>May 11, 2011 12:25:34 PM
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator
>
>We
>have all the wiring instructions in the kit for all the Healey's
>
>
>
>
>David
>Nock
>British Car Specialists
>Stockton Ca 95205
>209-948-8767
>www.britishcarspecialists.com
>.
>.
>
>On May 11, 2011, at 2:27 AM, Bob Abbott
>wrote:
>
> > Anyone know of a good article for how to rewire a generator car to
> > work with
> > an alternator?
> > Thanks
> > Bob
> >
>_______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> >
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> >
>healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested
>annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
>http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed May 11 15:49:44 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 17:49:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 wipers
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimurLrO27EpE44ppc8PdD5X9rpcLw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimurLrO27EpE44ppc8PdD5X9rpcLw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc1025$56fd0a80$04f71f80$@net>

Hi Bob, 

Your BN1 wiper arms should have a split collet that fits within the base end
of the arm (instead of the usual spline) that screws down onto the smooth
shaft to lock it in place. This collet will have a chromed hex nut surface
that tightens it with a spanner.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert Memler
Sent: 2011-05-11 10:48
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 wipers

My BN1 wipers fit onto a smooth knob such that when the wipers are activated
the knob turns but the wipers stay stationary. Has anyone had this problem
and how did you resolve it.
Thanks, Bob Memler
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May 11 15:59:00 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 05:59:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 wipers
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimurLrO27EpE44ppc8PdD5X9rpcLw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimurLrO27EpE44ppc8PdD5X9rpcLw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=E4Bkyag=NJwMVzX+2x6xyjbgrMw@mail.gmail.com>

Robert -

Many have had very good success with using a cut piece of coca-cola
can as a shim on the shaft.

Also, several sources also sell toothed shaft adaptors which aslo work
very well.  Of course you will then have to purchase new arms if you
go this route.

Alan

On 5/11/11, Robert Memler <rmemler at gmail.com> wrote:
> My BN1 wipers fit onto a smooth knob such that when the wipers are activated
> the knob turns but the wipers stay stationary. Has anyone had this problem
> and how did you resolve it.
> Thanks, Bob Memler
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed May 11 16:57:57 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 00:57:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinMBR7R4nZ2R0s1D3-cXUmq3uS-4g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net> <4DCA8D87.4050507@justbrits.com>
	<006601cc0fe5$8480e930$8d82bb90$@net>
	<BANLkTinMBR7R4nZ2R0s1D3-cXUmq3uS-4g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DCB1475.7010208@chello.nl>


[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed May 11 16:59:51 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 00:59:51 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <006601cc0fe5$8480e930$8d82bb90$@net>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net> <4DCA8D87.4050507@justbrits.com>
	<006601cc0fe5$8480e930$8d82bb90$@net>
Message-ID: <4DCB14E7.70409@chello.nl>

These were tipical US accessoires. In Europe sometimes fitted 
aftermarket on US made cars. They were seldom seen on European made cars.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed May 11 20:13:51 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 21:13:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <BACE7AA76B4548669ECFC7CF80F34C97@LeonardPCPC>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com><003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net><h6als69hmg06pgu19c7gp87ubpb4m34lcu@4ax.com><BANLkTinYBbCoaBg7cdU6wnKY+NNn2FQijw@mail.gmail.com><4DCABEA7.2020303@att.net>
	<BACE7AA76B4548669ECFC7CF80F34C97@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <A6D7D4C3EF4F49D3A2523003E414582E@GregPC>

The only cars I remember seeing those things on was big american sedans, 
Cadillacs and Lincolns and such in the 60s and 70s, to me it looks very out 
of place on a sportscar.

Greg Lemon

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu May 12 00:03:09 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 06:03:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?curb_feelers?=
Message-ID: <20110512060309.1136.qmail@server278.com>

i can see it now.  mudflaps and racoon tails along with curb feelers.  consult your latest j.c. whitney catalogue.  

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 12 03:15:23 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 05:15:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
References: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4DCAC9A0.6060704@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001001cc1085$20391b50$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Why risk old technology for your safety.   Its time to upgrade to a four 
wheeler and be safe.
One stay in a hospital could wipe out your hobby all together.   These 
stands aren't that expensive
considering how long they last and what they allow you to do with your 
engine.

Sell the old one for what ever you can and upgrade.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle


> Ed,
> When I did my 3000 engine I did use the three wheeled type of engine
> stand.  It was quite scary, but if you are very careful, it can be
> done.  They are rated for that much weight, but when turning the engine,
> you need to make sure that it is done slowly and supported so that the
> weight stays centered on the single wheel below.
> Another concern is if you are moving it around the shop that a wheel
> doesn't not hit a stone or something on the floor and stop abruptly and
> the weight of the engine take the whole thing over.  It is very top heavy.
> Charlie
>
> On 5/11/2011 11:03 AM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
>> List,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have two engine stands, 3 wheelers, that I've used for 4 cylinder 
>> engines,
>> but am hesitant to use for that 6 cylinder Healey.B  What have others 
>> used for
>> the Big Healey engine?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Ed Woods
>> _______________________________________________
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name 
> of mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu May 12 03:56:56 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 19:56:56 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
Message-ID: <22BBA56A-A3A8-4070-AF4D-2FEC652483BA@gmail.com>

I personally prefer the "dancing Elvis" dashboard doll.
;-)
Far less ankle damage to passengers!

Sent from my iPhone

On 11/05/2011, at 10:59 PM, "Ron Ray" <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Although not a cup holder, perhaps this is what some have been  
> looking for
> to improve once again on the design of their Healey.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543&
> viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123>
> &item=270747574543&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
>
> Ron
> __________________________

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu May 12 04:18:16 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 20:18:16 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <22BBA56A-A3A8-4070-AF4D-2FEC652483BA@gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com><003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
	<22BBA56A-A3A8-4070-AF4D-2FEC652483BA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ABB666DBDACE4B4CA5CA580E05B2F49C@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Chris

But what about a custom accessory for hat wearers?

Back in the 1960s there was a AH 100 in Sydney that had an upwards bump in
its hoodbows so that its female owner could always wear her favourite hats.

But I suppose it pales next to the Mustang I saw with the statuette of Venus
de Milo on the back parcel shelf that would light up when the brakes were
applied.

I have to get back to my writing so stop distracting me.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
Sent: Thursday, 12 May 2011 7:57 PM
To: Ron Ray
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom accessory

I personally prefer the "dancing Elvis" dashboard doll.
;-)
Far less ankle damage to passengers!

Sent from my iPhone

On 11/05/2011, at 10:59 PM, "Ron Ray" <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Although not a cup holder, perhaps this is what some have been  
> looking for
> to improve once again on the design of their Healey.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
>
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543&
> viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123>
> &item=270747574543&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
>
> Ron
> __________________________
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Thu May 12 05:51:19 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 06:51:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <BACE7AA76B4548669ECFC7CF80F34C97@LeonardPCPC>
References: <BANLkTi=e_DXr_NzCtb-WfJfmkYk8Q2cKmA@mail.gmail.com>
	<003401cc0fdb$4931b2b0$db951810$@net>
	<h6als69hmg06pgu19c7gp87ubpb4m34lcu@4ax.com>
	<BANLkTinYBbCoaBg7cdU6wnKY+NNn2FQijw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DCABEA7.2020303@att.net>
	<BACE7AA76B4548669ECFC7CF80F34C97@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <BANLkTik1puSAzZQ5nocP00QAqdV=kBd62A@mail.gmail.com>

i wonder if all the feelers could be wired into your GPS where it would play
"On Britannia" or something similar whenever you made a touch.
cheers,

On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 12:44 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett <
thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Actually, you will need four sets if you are subject to parking on either
> side of the street -  on front fenders to protect the front tires if you are
> pulling in driving forward and on the rear fenders to protect the rear tires
> if you are backing into a parking space .   Or save your money and only park
> diagonally or parallel next to rolled or no curbs.   :-)
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" <robertlarson at att.net>
> To: "jerry wall" <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com>; "Healey List" <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 9:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom accessory
>
>
>  Or in new York City where the streets are usually one way and with parking
>> on both sides you need two sets....
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 5/11/2011 12:01 PM, jerry wall wrote:
>>
>>> ..........or if you park on the wrong side of the street........
>>>
>>> On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 10:19 AM, Roland Wilhelmy<rwil at sbcglobal.net
>>> >wrote:
>>>
>>>  If you had a right-hand drive car, you wouldn't need it ;-)
>>>> -Roland
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, 11 May 2011 07:59:37 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ::Although not a cup holder, perhaps this is what some have been looking
>>>> for
>>>> ::to improve once again on the design of their Healey.
>>>> ::
>>>> ::http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
>>>> ::<
>>>>
>>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270747574543
>>>> &
>>>> ::viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123>
>>>> ::&item=270747574543&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
>>>> ::
>>>> ::Ron
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Thu May 12 13:53:24 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 14:53:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
Message-ID: <BANLkTinYjtN8QLzbMGznYSQ1qixvKArdbQ@mail.gmail.com>

While we are reminiscing, my favorite was the stop and go light in the back
window. The green showed when you had your foot on the gas, the yellow when
you took it off, and of course the red when you pressed the brake pedal.
Seemed a better way of communicating what the car in front was doing.

I do believe the '50s blue dots for your brake light lens are still
available from Whitney.

Jack

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu May 12 15:36:01 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 14:36:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinYjtN8QLzbMGznYSQ1qixvKArdbQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTinYjtN8QLzbMGznYSQ1qixvKArdbQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=Q5b4A2JZp6K1Ex2KUFwrFdHw+nw@mail.gmail.com>

I would prefer a light that warned me thst someone was going to speed up,
pull right in front of me and then slow down. Here we csll it the cut and
squat move. Damed anoying

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 12, 2011 1:17 PM, "Jack Feldman" <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:
> While we are reminiscing, my favorite was the stop and go light in the
back
> window. The green showed when you had your foot on the gas, the yellow
when
> you took it off, and of course the red when you pressed the brake pedal.
> Seemed a better way of communicating what the car in front was doing.
>
> I do believe the '50s blue dots for your brake light lens are still
> available from Whitney.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu May 12 15:57:07 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 14:57:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] brakes
In-Reply-To: <709571.23351.qm@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <BANLkTikkjYzHs3MdYAxyXgn8y=F+4z4RGA@mail.gmail.com>
	<709571.23351.qm@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTingdOnyhZXbo5vPEK5zAxPS87-kpA@mail.gmail.com>

Spridgetiers and FYI for Big Healey List Members,

I just stopped by and spoke to Bryan Dornon, owner of Vista Brake Service &
Supply, Inc. here in Vista California (North San Diego County.)  If you
cannot find someone in your area to arc your brake shoes to your drums Bryan
does this all the time, and in fact he regularly gets jobs from around the
U.S.

This is one of the last old time brake shops, with great customer service
and reasonable prices.  The shop is also immaculately clean!  I highly
recommend them for any brake work and I'm about to take in my BN1 drums and
shoes (new linings bonded on and arced to the drums) and a set of BN2 front
brake drums to be done.

Here's their information if interested...

*Vista Brake Service & Supply, Inc.*
Bryan Dornon
790 E. Vista Way
Vista, CA  92084
(760) 724-5157
http://www.vistabrake.com/

Cheers,

Curt


On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 9:26 AM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>wrote:

Curt,
>      How many shops do you know that still arc brake shoes?  Arcing
> machines were taken out years ago due to asbestos.  I don't know any shops
> around here that arc brake shoes.
> Mike MacLean
>
> --- On *Fri, 4/15/11, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] brakes
> To: "Peter Caldwell" <peter at nosimport.com>
> Cc: spridgets at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, April 15, 2011, 3:46 PM
>
> Listers,
>
> It's also a good idea to take your new brake shoes and drums into your
> local
> trusted brake shop, and have the shoes properly arced to the drums.  Theres
> not all that much adjustment on the sprite rears so this will ensure that
> the entire shoe contacts the drum evenly, for easier adjusting and  better
> braking.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Curt
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5:{)

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu May 12 17:17:18 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 17:17:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] brakes
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTingdOnyhZXbo5vPEK5zAxPS87-kpA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikkjYzHs3MdYAxyXgn8y=F+4z4RGA@mail.gmail.com><709571.23351.qm@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTingdOnyhZXbo5vPEK5zAxPS87-kpA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <88A7275B263348FE85225C87F9BAAFC4@oscar>

Lewis Brake and Clutch in Albuquerque.. 1st Street
 Sorry no O/D clutches though.
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Curt/Nancy Arndt
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 3:57 PM
To: Michael MacLean
Cc: Spridgets; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Spridgets] brakes

Spridgetiers and FYI for Big Healey List Members,

I just stopped by and spoke to Bryan Dornon, owner of Vista Brake Service &
Supply, Inc. here in Vista California (North San Diego County.)  If you
cannot find someone in your area to arc your brake shoes to your drums Bryan
does this all the time, and in fact he regularly gets jobs from around the
U.S.

This is one of the last old time brake shops, with great customer service
and reasonable prices.  The shop is also immaculately clean!  I highly
recommend them for any brake work and I'm about to take in my BN1 drums and
shoes (new linings bonded on and arced to the drums) and a set of BN2 front
brake drums to be done.

Here's their information if interested...

*Vista Brake Service & Supply, Inc.*
Bryan Dornon
790 E. Vista Way
Vista, CA  92084
(760) 724-5157
http://www.vistabrake.com/

Cheers,

Curt


On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 9:26 AM, Michael MacLean
<rrengineer.mike at att.net>wrote:

Curt,
>      How many shops do you know that still arc brake shoes?  Arcing
> machines were taken out years ago due to asbestos.  I don't know any shops
> around here that arc brake shoes.
> Mike MacLean
>
> --- On *Fri, 4/15/11, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] brakes
> To: "Peter Caldwell" <peter at nosimport.com>
> Cc: spridgets at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, April 15, 2011, 3:46 PM
>
> Listers,
>
> It's also a good idea to take your new brake shoes and drums into your
> local
> trusted brake shop, and have the shoes properly arced to the drums.
Theres
> not all that much adjustment on the sprite rears so this will ensure that
> the entire shoe contacts the drum evenly, for easier adjusting and  better
> braking.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Curt
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5:{)
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Thu May 12 17:25:16 2011
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 16:25:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
Message-ID: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Enjoyed this clip: almost 7 minutes of a 100 in a French movie.  
JP using the "Le Mans" way to enter the car around 7'15".  
I'll need to practice!  ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5QeOwKzY60

Bert

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Thu May 12 18:17:02 2011
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 20:17:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CDDF1A37041486-104C-31BB3@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>

I noticed the boot (trunk) lid handle was on upside down and it didn't latch
to well.  Also the sound effects made it sound like he could start the engine
with only the ignition switch and not have to push the starter button.
Any other faults I missed?

Larry
67 BJ8






-----Original Message-----
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande at yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 12, 2011 7:47 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie


Enjoyed this clip: almost 7 minutes of a 100 in a French movie.
P using the "Le Mans" way to enter the car around 7'15".
'll need to practice!  ;-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5QeOwKzY60
Bert
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu May 12 18:48:38 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 19:48:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <8CDDF1A37041486-104C-31BB3@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8CDDF1A37041486-104C-31BB3@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <AFE7346A0C3746289DD2697CF98EDFCC@GregPC>

Don't know about other faults, but what was the little sportscar the guy was 
driving when the 100 driver talks to at the airport  Dyna Panhard or 
something rare and French like that?  The scene towards the end where he 
jumps out of the car by putting his foot on top of the door was painful....

Greg Lemon

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu May 12 19:04:12 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 18:04:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FS: K&N Filter for 2" SU
Message-ID: <4DCC838C.3030000@comcast.net>

I have a (single) new K&N filter (with hardware) that will fit an HX8 carburettor.  This will fit the rear carb on a 
BJ8, for instance, but is not suitable for the front carb.  It's 6" dia. by 1.75" thick.  The holes match up perfectly 
to the carb.

I ordered this by mistake and don't need it.  I paid $73.98 plus tax, etc.--I'll let it go for $60 and I'll pick up 
shipping (priority mail, probably) if anyone's interested.

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From go2ghill at aol.com  Thu May 12 21:19:27 2011
From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 23:19:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started
Message-ID: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>

Having a problem starting the 100-6. It all began because it took several
tries to get the starter to kick in. After reading a post on a similar
problem, I took the advice and replaced the solenoid. On the first try the
starter seemed to jam, so I took it out and attached the battery, it seemed to
run fine. I put it back in, but now, all I get is that annoying clicking when
pushing the starter. When I couldn't get it to start, I had to get my wife to
help push the Healey back up the driveway into the garage. She is done with
that, so need advice on what to do.
Greg Hill
58' BN4

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Thu May 12 21:34:20 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 03:34:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
In-Reply-To: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <COL106-W2357488DB6EE9ABC2456D2C0880@phx.gbl>

There are many sizes of 3 wheel engine stands. I also have two 3 wheel engine
stands. One is of marginal size and strength. That is why I purchased the
second stand for my Healey 6 cylinder engines. If I were gong to rebuild a big
block Chevy or Ford motor, I would buy a bigger stand.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon




> Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 15:03:53 +0000
> From: fogbro1 at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
>
> List,
>
>
>
> I have two engine stands, 3 wheelers, that I've used for 4 cylinder
engines,
> but am hesitant to use for that 6 cylinder Healey.B  What have others used
for
> the Big Healey engine?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu May 12 21:58:28 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 20:58:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started
In-Reply-To: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DCCAC64.1040506@comcast.net>

Sounds like a weak battery.  How old is it?

Bob

On 5/12/2011 8:19 PM, Greg Hill wrote:
> Having a problem starting the 100-6. It all began because it took several
> tries to get the starter to kick in. After reading a post on a similar
> problem, I took the advice and replaced the solenoid. On the first try the
> starter seemed to jam, so I took it out and attached the battery, it seemed to
> run fine. I put it back in, but now, all I get is that annoying clicking when
> pushing the starter. When I couldn't get it to start, I had to get my wife to
> help push the Healey back up the driveway into the garage. She is done with
> that, so need advice on what to do.
> Greg Hill
> 58' BN4
> _______________________________________________
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu May 12 22:18:44 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 21:18:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started
In-Reply-To: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinNMmbG+o+N+=ELo6FcFhCTQsxQWQ@mail.gmail.com>

Full battery charge? Check cables for corosion? Clean battery cable clamps
and posts.  Check health of battery acid....
Park on a steep hill;)

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 12, 2011 8:46 PM, "Greg Hill" <go2ghill at aol.com> wrote:
> Having a problem starting the 100-6. It all began because it took several
> tries to get the starter to kick in. After reading a post on a similar
> problem, I took the advice and replaced the solenoid. On the first try the
> starter seemed to jam, so I took it out and attached the battery, it
seemed to
> run fine. I put it back in, but now, all I get is that annoying clicking
when
> pushing the starter. When I couldn't get it to start, I had to get my wife
to
> help push the Healey back up the driveway into the garage. She is done
with
> that, so need advice on what to do.
> Greg Hill
> 58' BN4
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu May 12 22:26:35 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 21:26:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started
In-Reply-To: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <008701cc1125$f20185f0$d60491d0$@ca>

Sounds like either you're not getting enough power to the starter (the
clicking sound is the bendix not having enough juice to engage the starter
ring or, the bendix itself...the starter gear is not getting thrown out
enough to engage the starter ring.

My guess is it's a power problem.   Testing it outside of the car won't
suffice as a test.... the battery has enough juice to turn the starter but
not enough to turn the flywheel.

Try jumping with a fresh battery and see what happens.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Hill
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 8:19 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started

Having a problem starting the 100-6. It all began because it took several
tries to get the starter to kick in. After reading a post on a similar
problem, I took the advice and replaced the solenoid. On the first try the
starter seemed to jam, so I took it out and attached the battery, it seemed
to
run fine. I put it back in, but now, all I get is that annoying clicking
when
pushing the starter. When I couldn't get it to start, I had to get my wife
to
help push the Healey back up the driveway into the garage. She is done with
that, so need advice on what to do.
Greg Hill
58' BN4
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu May 12 22:38:49 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 12:38:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started
In-Reply-To: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikM0JjFo3=MPBaEiya9LdmASAWT9w@mail.gmail.com>

Clean your battery connectors and battery posts with a battery post cleaner....

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu May 12 22:42:39 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 12:42:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W2357488DB6EE9ABC2456D2C0880@phx.gbl>
References: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<COL106-W2357488DB6EE9ABC2456D2C0880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=MLRcH8rMTAkMuAaNFSscwcaLWzg@mail.gmail.com>

The problem with the three wheel stands is partly the weight of the
motor, but also the length.  Since the Austin 6 motor is long, so the
CG puts a great deal of weight on the front third wheel, and can be
dangerous in the garage unless very carefully handled.  American V8s
are usually quite short so they are much safer to manipulate on these
things regardless of the weight.  you can use a three wheeler, but you
just have to be "vewy vewy caful."

Alan

On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 11:34 AM, richard mayor
<mayorrichard at hotmail.com> wrote:
> There are many sizes of 3 wheel engine stands. I also have two 3 wheel
engine
> stands. One is of marginal size and strength. That is why I purchased the
> second stand for my Healey 6 cylinder engines. If I were gong to rebuild a
big
> block Chevy or Ford motor, I would buy a bigger stand.
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
> Portland, Oregon

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri May 13 00:22:13 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 08:22:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <AFE7346A0C3746289DD2697CF98EDFCC@GregPC>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8CDDF1A37041486-104C-31BB3@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>
	<AFE7346A0C3746289DD2697CF98EDFCC@GregPC>
Message-ID: <4DCCCE15.7010809@chello.nl>

Certainly not Panhard, probably not even French by the looks of it.
Perhaps Italian, Abarth, Lombard, Innocenti (modded bug eye) or some 
British kit car?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri May 13 00:28:55 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 08:28:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started
In-Reply-To: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CDDF33B355B9A7-2188-8996@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DCCCFA7.6040100@chello.nl>

Flat battery or a poor electrical connection.
Check battery condition
Check battery clamps for cleanliness and tightnes, same for connections 
to the solenoid, starter, earthing strap from engine to chassis
Check earthing strap for damage
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri May 13 01:22:56 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 09:22:56 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <4DCCCE15.7010809@chello.nl>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8CDDF1A37041486-104C-31BB3@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>
	<AFE7346A0C3746289DD2697CF98EDFCC@GregPC> <4DCCCE15.7010809@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4DCCDC50.2000507@chello.nl>

On second thoughts I think it may be a Berkeley, a small British sports 
car that started with a three wheeler with a 2-stroke motor cycle engine 
and build 4-wheelers in a later stadium, what engine I do not know but 
Google should come up with something.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri May 13 01:51:48 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 17:51:48 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <4DCCDC50.2000507@chello.nl>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CDDF1A37041486-104C-31BB3@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com><AFE7346A0C3746289DD2697CF98EDFCC@GregPC>
	<4DCCCE15.7010809@chello.nl> <4DCCDC50.2000507@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <7A57890154974E20A024B5FD8C44C0EE@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Yes with those exposed door hinges and just a glimpse of the front I am
certain it's a Berkeley. Mostly they were fitted with British Anzani
2-stroke two cylinder engines, but they were very quick for their size.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Friday, 13 May 2011 5:23 PM
To: Greg Lemon
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 in French movie

On second thoughts I think it may be a Berkeley, a small British sports 
car that started with a three wheeler with a 2-stroke motor cycle engine 
and build 4-wheelers in a later stadium, what engine I do not know but 
Google should come up with something.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
coudesluijs.vcf]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From Paull at glasgows.co.uk  Fri May 13 03:53:45 2011
From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 10:53:45 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Friday funny: Why men shouldn't be Agony Aunts ...
Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19EC8@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>

One for the list ...



Dear Jim,

I left home for work last week and after less than a mile my car stalled and
wouldn't start.  So I walked back to our home to find my husband in bed with
our 19 year old babysitter.  They announced that the affair had been going on
for two years and that they were deeply in love.  Please can you help me?
I'm in complete despair!



Dear reader:

The most common cause of vehicles breaking down in the first mile is dirt in
the fuel lines; I would definitely check that first.

I hope this helps

Cheers, Jim



... I now look forward to a nice long thread on the most likely reason the
car stalled ... :-)



Paul Leeks

100/6 BN4

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Fri May 13 06:02:35 2011
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 08:02:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W2357488DB6EE9ABC2456D2C0880@phx.gbl>
References: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<COL106-W2357488DB6EE9ABC2456D2C0880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DCD1DDB.9020602@htcnet.org>

An alternative solution is to modify the stands' attaching plate to bolt 
up to the Healey engines' motor mount, putting the center of gravity 
closer to the center of the stand.

John
64/66 BJ8s
74 Norton

On 5/12/2011 11:34 PM, richard mayor wrote:
> There are many sizes of 3 wheel engine stands. I also have two 3 wheel engine
> stands. One is of marginal size and strength. That is why I purchased the
> second stand for my Healey 6 cylinder engines. If I were gong to rebuild a big
> block Chevy or Ford motor, I would buy a bigger stand.
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
> Portland, Oregon
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 15:03:53 +0000
>> From: fogbro1 at comcast.net
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
>>
>> List,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have two engine stands, 3 wheelers, that I've used for 4 cylinder
> engines,
>> but am hesitant to use for that 6 cylinder Healey.B  What have others used
> for
>> the Big Healey engine?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,

From drberkowitz at hotmail.com  Fri May 13 08:21:58 2011
From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 10:21:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?windows-1256?q?Can=27t_get_the_Healey_started=FE?=
Message-ID: <COL116-W6051B7D337FBA2B3F5C9F4B8880@phx.gbl>

Have you tried jump starting.  Just be careful not to have the cars touching and make sure you hook the polarity correctly.  Otherwise no problem with jump start. 		 	   		  

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri May 13 08:37:34 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 10:37:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?windows-1255?q?Can=27t_get_the_Healey_started=FE?=
In-Reply-To: <COL116-W6051B7D337FBA2B3F5C9F4B8880@phx.gbl>
References: <COL116-W6051B7D337FBA2B3F5C9F4B8880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <010101cc117b$4d3c9f90$e7b5deb0$@verizon.net>

Also be sure that the engine ground strap is still attached.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:22 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started~

Have you tried jump starting.  Just be careful not to have the cars touching
and make sure you hook the polarity correctly.  Otherwise no problem with
jump start.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri May 13 08:42:46 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 00:42:46 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
In-Reply-To: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1814500D-C00E-45EA-8FEF-E40E78CBF2C2@gmail.com>

Hi Ed,
My BJ8 engine was built on a 3 wheel engine stand.
It was all together, and I went to paint it. Having rotated it, to  
make sure i'd painted everything properly, the engine overbalanced.
Fortunately for my engine, I managed to put myself between the wet  
painted engine and the concrete floor of my workshop, and sought of  
caught it..
My arms/ shoulders/back were pretty sore for a week or so, but I think  
that was mostly due to my determination to put the engine & stand back  
up on the wheels, on my own, and touch up the paint, before Peter  
Molloy arrived the next morning.
Nearly killed me. Fortunately, I was much fitter and stronger back  
then, and spent around 8 hours a week in the gym.......
If I dropped an engine on me now, I'd probably still be trapped under  
it!!! ;-)
Anyway, I confessed my sins to Uncle Pete, Pete retorqued the head,  
and we have all been good for the past 13 years. Both me, Uncle Pete,  
the engine stand, and the engine....
I'd go a 4 wheeler next time.....
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone

On 12/05/2011, at 1:03 AM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:

> List,
>
>
>
> I have two engine stands, 3 wheelers, that I've used for 4 cylinder  
> engines,
> but am hesitant to use for that 6 cylinder Healey.B  What have  
> others used for
> the Big Healey engine?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Woods
> ____________________

From bj7healey at gmail.com  Fri May 13 15:56:17 2011
From: bj7healey at gmail.com (Bob Slater)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 17:56:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Stand or Cradle
In-Reply-To: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1057839063.562432.1305126233161.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=SbU5N9FEnHizb5YTBa6qbVfLNNA@mail.gmail.com>

I solved my problem with the gas tank thread. I soldered a piece of 5/16
copper pipe inside of thread and used gas line hose to pump. Worked great.
  If you go to this web address you can see what I did.

                     https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos

                         *Bob        1963 BJ7*

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Fri May 13 16:45:46 2011
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 15:45:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Both Mags .....
In-Reply-To: <137724.47870.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <998349.57080.qm@web30306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well today both magazines arrived in plastic wrappers and were in great
condition.  I have had very little problem with the condition of either
magazine when delivered. 
 
However, I did notice that the AHCUSA magazine had a return of Maimo, Sweden. 
Is this a form of outsourcing whereby international issues are shipped to
Sweden and then mailed? Weird. 
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
  - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Thu, 5/5/11, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Both Mags .....
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Thursday, May 5, 2011, 7:45 PM


Both Healey mags arrived on the same day this week - unusual.

And, one was wrapped, and one was not.

Guess which one had zero damage.....and this is summer. :-)

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com

_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Fri May 13 21:11:59 2011
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 23:11:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Can=27t_get_the_Healey_started=FE?=
References: <COL116-W6051B7D337FBA2B3F5C9F4B8880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <607295B4CC4A4359900539B39D2E445B@655vb01>

What is the correct hookup procedure for jump starting a positively ground 
car?
Thanks,
Elton
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Leonard Berkowitz" <drberkowitz at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started~


> Have you tried jump starting.  Just be careful not to have the cars 
> touching and make sure you hook the polarity correctly.  Otherwise no 
> problem with jump start.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri May 13 21:30:09 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 20:30:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Can=27t_get_the_Healey_started=FE?=
In-Reply-To: <607295B4CC4A4359900539B39D2E445B@655vb01>
References: <COL116-W6051B7D337FBA2B3F5C9F4B8880@phx.gbl>
	<607295B4CC4A4359900539B39D2E445B@655vb01>
Message-ID: <4DCDF741.3060903@comcast.net>

Connect positive terminal on the 'donor' car/battery to positive battery terminal or chassis--preferably chassis--on Healey.

Connect negative battery terminal--or chassis, preferably--on donor to negative terminal on Healey battery.

Make the last connection--on either--to the nominal ground (i.e. positive lead to chassis on Healey or negative lead to 
chassis on donor).

Turn key on and hit the starter.

Bob

On 5/13/2011 8:11 PM, Elton Schulz wrote:
> What is the correct hookup procedure for jump starting a positively ground car?
> Thanks,
> Elton
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Leonard Berkowitz" <drberkowitz at hotmail.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:21 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started~
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Fri May 13 21:31:51 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 23:31:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Can=27t_get_the_Healey_started=C3=BE?=
In-Reply-To: <607295B4CC4A4359900539B39D2E445B@655vb01>
References: <COL116-W6051B7D337FBA2B3F5C9F4B8880@phx.gbl>
	<607295B4CC4A4359900539B39D2E445B@655vb01>
Message-ID: <8CDDFFE995E287F-10C0-5D62C@webmail-d144.sysops.aol.com>

 Just red to red & black to black, Elton.
Ned








-----Original Message-----
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz at frontiernet.net>
To: Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz at hotmail.com>; healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 13, 2011 11:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey startedC>


What is the correct hookup procedure for jump starting a positively ground

car?

Thanks,

Elton

----- Original Message -----

From: "Leonard Berkowitz" <drberkowitz at hotmail.com>

To: <healeys at autox.team.net>

Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:21 AM

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Can't get the Healey started~





> Have you tried jump starting.  Just be careful not to have the cars

> touching and make sure you hook the polarity correctly.  Otherwise no

> problem with jump start.

> _______________________________________________

> Healeys at autox.team.net

> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Suggested annual donation  $12.75

> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

> Unsubscribe/Manage:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net

_______________________________________________

Healeys at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri May 13 22:16:49 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 23:16:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Can=27t_get_the_Healey_started=FE?=
In-Reply-To: <8CDDFFE995E287F-10C0-5D62C@webmail-d144.sysops.aol.com>
References: <COL116-W6051B7D337FBA2B3F5C9F4B8880@phx.gbl><607295B4CC4A4359900539B39D2E445B@655vb01>
	<8CDDFFE995E287F-10C0-5D62C@webmail-d144.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <70FF8717547A4A69B6C2B930EA3626C4@GregPC>

Yes, just red to red and black to black, or + to + and - to - if you prefer. 
Only thing to remember if you are jumping from negative to a positive ground 
car don't create a circuit from chassis to chassis on both cars while doing 
the jump, i.e. don't let the bumpers touch if both cars have chrome bumpers, 
did that once when I was jumping my old generator Sprite (positive earth) 
with a newer alternator Sprite (negative earth) many many many years ago, 
made some sparks, didn't hurt anything.

Not sure if you could use your body as the short creating medium if you 
touched grounded metal on both cars while jumping, have been told it is low 
voltage, so little likelihood of this, but not really wanting to experiment 
and find out.

Greg Lemon

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat May 14 06:52:17 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 05:52:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Assembly goo overload
Message-ID: <357681.81565.qm@web180101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Its been awhile since I have shopped the Eng/ Car assembly adhesives.  Now
there
is Blue,  Copper,  Black, High temp, Med. temp, 1B, 2B, and of course our
favorite Halomar
( I still have 3 tubes left)
 
Its sensory overload.   Is there one product that will work for intake
gaskets, and eng.
covers, that you can apply and fly and not have to let  dry and retorque  that
they suggest?
 
The guys  on the weekend gear head shows seem to lean toward the Lock Tite
brands
which I couldn't find at all.  Our stores carry Permatex.
 
Sorry if this is a repeat,  I may not have been paying attention before.
 
Mark

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat May 14 07:09:45 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 15:09:45 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Assembly goo overload
In-Reply-To: <357681.81565.qm@web180101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <357681.81565.qm@web180101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DCE7F19.8050104@chello.nl>

Permatex should be fine for these applications, providing the mating 
surfaces are free of dirt, grease, oil (so clean first with white 
spirits, petrol, terpentine etc.) and is allowed to cure before starting 
up the engine.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Sat May 14 07:22:01 2011
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John Homonek)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 09:22:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Here's a Great Healey Video
Message-ID: <002001cc1239$e9131700$bb394500$@com>

 And you can be there.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d76nhxaprDE

 

John E. Homonek II

1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

From bsdds at bellsouth.net  Sat May 14 09:00:41 2011
From: bsdds at bellsouth.net (Dr. Barry Simmons)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 11:00:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Black 100M
Message-ID: <00012F14-2070-43B6-B86D-2A4EC3F15DD6@bellsouth.net>

I wish to purchase a BMIHT certificate-black or black w/red cove  
factory 100M. If current color is different, that would be ok. I  
would appreciate any help finding one, particularly one that is a  
driver. Please, no previous collision/frame  damage
Barry Simmons  Athens, Ga. 30605
Tele: 706 546 1716       Email: bsdds at bellsouth.net

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Sat May 14 10:04:45 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 09:04:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Custom accessory
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=Q5b4A2JZp6K1Ex2KUFwrFdHw+nw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <663744.90687.qm@web130202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Not quite meaning to make light of a bad situation but...
That's what Lance Macklin said in 1955
Best
JK

--- On Thu, 5/12/11, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I would prefer a light that warned me
> thst someone was going to speed up,
> pull right in front of me and then slow down. Here we csll
> it the cut and
> squat move. Damed anoying
> 
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 Solutions
> Portland

From jmcd206 at msn.com  Sat May 14 10:06:29 2011
From: jmcd206 at msn.com (Jim McDermott)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 09:06:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Information
Message-ID: <COL105-W2702C512D16494CC0F41D5F18B0@phx.gbl>

This was just posted on our Club Web Site message board.  Can anyone help with
information?


Jim McDermott
100-Six BN4
Cascade Austin Healey Club
cascadeahc.homestead.com








Saturday, 5/14/11, 2:33 AM







I have resently purchased two old Black and white photographs in a junk shop
of a Healy Silverstone Reg UVG475 and a Healy Eliott UVG264 I was wondering if
anyone could tell me if these cars are still alive or any information about
them.

 Kind regards Simon Peryer







From:

Norfolk England



Web Site:

Ministryofstuff



Email:

mofstuff at aol.com

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat May 14 11:59:57 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 10:59:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
Message-ID: <714428.17400.qm@web161218.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Wonder how this BN6 with no sign of roll bar or other racing prep
http://tinyurl.com/6ems8ow  managed to compete in both the '66 Watkins Glen
Sports Car Grand Prix that was won by Jim Hall in a Chapparal 2A or the 500
mile enduro of the same year?   The seller seems to have underestimated the
number of BN6s by a few thousand as well.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Sat May 14 14:18:57 2011
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 13:18:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <506278.73842.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I enjoyed watching that clip but I noticed in the RH Column the 100-S that sold 
at Amelia Island for a record $632,500.  I guess that one slipped by me.  Did 
anyone else notice or is that old news.  Anyone know who the owner was / is?  
Chassis no. AH-3707.

Back to the video.  Is that proper parking position for the Windshield Wipers on 
a BN2?

Ron 
62 BN7 TriCarb
59 BN5 100-6




________________________________
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande at yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 12, 2011 7:25:16 PM
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie

Enjoyed this clip: almost 7 minutes of a 100 in a French movie.  
JP using the "Le Mans" way to enter the car around 7'15".  
I'll need to practice!  ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5QeOwKzY60

Bert
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sat May 14 14:22:30 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 13:22:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <714428.17400.qm@web161218.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <714428.17400.qm@web161218.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <464DA648-C154-449C-AFD6-4EFC4A95BB6E@cox.net>

Actually that number (249) is right for 1959 BN6s.
It's not significant because the same model was made in 58 as well.

The 355 BN7 is significant because there are only 355 tri-carb two- 
seat 3000s.

Wilko

On May 14, 2011, at 10:59 AM, HealeyRick wrote:

> Wonder how this BN6 with no sign of roll bar or other racing prep
> http://tinyurl.com/6ems8ow  managed to compete in both the '66  
> Watkins Glen
> Sports Car Grand Prix that was won by Jim Hall in a Chapparal 2A or  
> the 500
> mile enduro of the same year?   The seller seems to have  
> underestimated the
> number of BN6s by a few thousand as well.
>
> Rick

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sat May 14 14:24:13 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 13:24:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <464DA648-C154-449C-AFD6-4EFC4A95BB6E@cox.net>
References: <714428.17400.qm@web161218.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<464DA648-C154-449C-AFD6-4EFC4A95BB6E@cox.net>
Message-ID: <31C8CE95-3A2A-4E81-8CA9-CF36F0D9658C@cox.net>

Actually that number (249) is right for 1959 BN6s.
It's not significant because the same model was made in 58 as well.

The 355 BN7 is significant because there are only 355 tri-carb two- 
seat 3000s.

Wilko

On May 14, 2011, at 10:59 AM, HealeyRick wrote:

> Wonder how this BN6 with no sign of roll bar or other racing prep
> http://tinyurl.com/6ems8ow  managed to compete in both the '66  
> Watkins Glen
> Sports Car Grand Prix that was won by Jim Hall in a Chapparal 2A or  
> the 500
> mile enduro of the same year?   The seller seems to have  
> underestimated the
> number of BN6s by a few thousand as well.
>
> Rick

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat May 14 14:46:27 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 13:46:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <31C8CE95-3A2A-4E81-8CA9-CF36F0D9658C@cox.net>
Message-ID: <306463.41705.qm@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

OK, I'll give him that, it's a "rare" 1959 BN6, although it's an odd way of
defining rarity in Healey models.  And I suppose being the first car out of
the parking lot after Jim Hall dusted the field constitutes "racing'  at the
Glen Sports Car Grand Prix? ;-)

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 5/14/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:

From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6
To:
Cc: "healeylist List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, May 14, 2011, 4:24 PM

Actually that number (249) is right for 1959 BN6s.
It's not significant because the same model was made in 58 as well.

The 355 BN7 is significant because there are only 355 tri-carb two-
seat 3000s.

Wilko

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Sat May 14 14:51:43 2011
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 16:51:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 M color
Message-ID: <3FEB0664-B43C-4DC9-9286-000A33024972@gmail.com>

I'm traveling right now but am trying to answer a question.

Does anyone know the number of Black / Red and solid Black 100 M's built? I
believe the info was in the Gary Anderson/Roger Moment restoration guide or
Clausenger (sp?) book. Anyone got it handy?

TIA,

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From thehealeyguy at gmail.com  Sat May 14 14:59:05 2011
From: thehealeyguy at gmail.com (Bob Abbott)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 16:59:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gen to alt. conversion
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=SKhbhKxxTL1GiWkeUBsOA0ymVcQ@mail.gmail.com>

Many thanks to those who responded to my question about instructions to
convert a generator to an alternator. Unfortunately, all of the instructions
I was directed to were for an earlier 2 bobbin regulator. Anyone know of a
good set of instructions for the conversion (wiring) to a later 3 bobbin
regulator, ie BJ8

Thanks,
Bob

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat May 14 16:08:45 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 15:08:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <506278.73842.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<506278.73842.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimEWS5oFwaoeHKgFckeSatwJmpyrA@mail.gmail.com>

I wad told my old friend Fred Cohen used to own the car. He got $125,000 for
it in eRly 80s

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 14, 2011 1:32 PM, "Ron Mitchell" <healeyron at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I enjoyed watching that clip but I noticed in the RH Column the 100-S that
sold
> at Amelia Island for a record $632,500. I guess that one slipped by me.
Did
> anyone else notice or is that old news. Anyone know who the owner was /
is?
> Chassis no. AH-3707.
>
> Back to the video. Is that proper parking position for the Windshield
Wipers on
> a BN2?
>
> Ron
> 62 BN7 TriCarb
> 59 BN5 100-6
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande at yahoo.com>
> To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, May 12, 2011 7:25:16 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
>
> Enjoyed this clip: almost 7 minutes of a 100 in a French movie.
> JP using the "Le Mans" way to enter the car around 7'15".
> I'll need to practice! ;-)
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5QeOwKzY60
>
> Bert
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat May 14 16:12:11 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 08:12:11 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Information
In-Reply-To: <COL105-W2702C512D16494CC0F41D5F18B0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL105-W2702C512D16494CC0F41D5F18B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <01E86BAF64A94E06ADE18FF9B932C820@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Jim

I just checked the website of the Association of Healey Owners and can't
find either. In the members area of the website are lists of known surviving
Healeys.

I would suggest that contact be made with the Association at 

http://www.healeyowners.co.uk/

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim McDermott
Sent: Sunday, 15 May 2011 2:06 AM
To: Austin_Healey Healey_Net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Information

This was just posted on our Club Web Site message board.  Can anyone help
with
information?


Jim McDermott
100-Six BN4
Cascade Austin Healey Club
cascadeahc.homestead.com








Saturday, 5/14/11, 2:33 AM







I have resently purchased two old Black and white photographs in a junk shop
of a Healy Silverstone Reg UVG475 and a Healy Eliott UVG264 I was wondering
if
anyone could tell me if these cars are still alive or any information about
them.

 Kind regards Simon Peryer







From:

Norfolk England



Web Site:

Ministryofstuff



Email:

mofstuff at aol.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From raymead at comcast.net  Sat May 14 16:23:34 2011
From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 22:23:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] AUSTIN ATLANTIC CONVERTIBLE TOP?
Message-ID: <914525512.395259.1305411814293.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

hi all, 



(at least this post is 1/2 Austin-Healey)! 



Anyone know where I can get a new convertible top for an Austin Atlantic? 



tks, ray 

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat May 14 16:42:42 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 18:42:42 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Jump starting, a final note
Message-ID: <7852.2c2bee40.3b005f62@aol.com>

Just remember when jump-starting from one vehicle to another: Never, ever 
make the last contact to a battery post. Make your last connection the one 
that might go to the post on the dead car that would go to the chassis (posi 
if posi ground car, negative if negative ground car). Our batteries generally 
are old-school enough so that they can build up explosive vapors above the 
battery which can be detonated if the contact sparks when it touches the 
post. Boom!

Generally, positive to postive, negative to ground on neg ground cars; 
negative to negative, positive to ground on posi ground cars.

But, since emergency batteries with fail-safe circuits have gotten so cheap 
and useful in the past few years -- mine has an air compresser and 
emergency light -- you should just keep one of those in your garage.

Good luck,
Gary

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sat May 14 16:43:04 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 15:43:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine gaskets
Message-ID: <40509.5595.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I purchased a bunch of gaskets in hopes to stop the oil leaks so I can park in my friends' driveways and still be friends after I leave. 

I'm starting with the engine gaskets I can get to easily. Is there anything I need to know before I drop the pan? Should I locktite the pan screws when I reassemble? Should I use a gasket sealer? 

Greg
65BJ8

Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. 

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat May 14 16:55:26 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 15:55:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine gaskets
In-Reply-To: <40509.5595.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <40509.5595.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikk6sJHWhURsVXVO-=cUZY=dKBAAA@mail.gmail.com>

Check front seal. Sidw covers, valve cover, rear, and , and ,and

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 14, 2011 3:48 PM, "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I purchased a bunch of gaskets in hopes to stop the oil leaks so I can
park in my friends' driveways and still be friends after I leave.
>
> I'm starting with the engine gaskets I can get to easily. Is there
anything I need to know before I drop the pan? Should I locktite the pan
screws when I reassemble? Should I use a gasket sealer?
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Sat May 14 17:09:37 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 19:09:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
Message-ID: <A00CE561525D4A9F90E48A9F14C5873C@9535DEE118EC44B>

My BN6, with no. 2786 ( only 86 cars earlier ), was built August, 1958.
Clausager has no. 2878 dated as August 1958.  The seller's car is 2870. By the
end of December and into 1959, they were in the 4300's.

So 1959 is not the build year, but the "sold in" or "registered in" year.

Looks relatively unmolested.  Few cars are seen in the red/ red combination
these days.  Large diameter non adjustable steering wheel and hub.  Nice
period BMC accessory day/ night mirror.  And what's with the BJ8 top boot and
tonneau ?

Peter

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat May 14 17:50:38 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 18:50:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <A00CE561525D4A9F90E48A9F14C5873C@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <A00CE561525D4A9F90E48A9F14C5873C@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <4DCF154E.9070205@justbrits.com>

<< Nice period BMC accessory day/ night mirror. And what's
with the BJ8 top boot and tonneau ? >>

Agreed Peter and dunno, BUT what is with Da Bonnet [ 1st pic ] ??

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Sat May 14 18:15:18 2011
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 17:15:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Black 100M
In-Reply-To: <00012F14-2070-43B6-B86D-2A4EC3F15DD6@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <817375.36803.qm@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Barry,

A certificate is not enough.   I've seen 3 100 bn1 and bn2's being
sold here in SoCal as a 100m's WITH certificate.  The first one I came across
when checking out a BN1 for sale on ebay.  The seller was only a 2-3 hour
drive away.  I decided the BN1 was too far gone so I asked about a BN2 on the
lot.  The seller pointed to a rust heap 100m with sagged frame and told me he
transplanted the VIN and some parts to the BN2 chassis to make the BN2 into a
real "M".  I decided right there and then I didn't want to do business with
this guy.  This was before I discovered this list.  Later we found out he
scammed a lister from Belgium out of his money. (discussed here on the list)
A couple years ago this guy, escaping arrest (no kidding), surfaced in the LA
area selling again via ebay.  In a short period he listed two regular 100's as
100m's.  One of the cars even had a 3 speed and BN1 style fenders (again
discussed here, check the archives).  Of course colors don't match the
certificate or engine/vin/body numbers don't line up as they should.  The
certificates are easy to come by for somebody with the intent of fraud.

The
best way is to find a 100m with "known" history.  With at least a good number
if not all body numbers matching the certificate stamped on the cockpit
surround,  front splash panel, louvered hood and rear bonnet support bracket.
A car with an original Vin plate and engine number plate and of course all the
regular 100m attributes and parts.  

In absence of the above you might as
well buy a regular 100.  As far as I can tell and despite some efforts of some
listers here this guy is still on the loose and the above 100m "project cars"
made it into the market.  They are probably restored by now and have a nice
shiny color by now, maybe even black/red so as always buyer beware.

For
details about this particular seller email me privately.

Bert
--- On Sat, 5/14/11, Dr. Barry Simmons <bsdds at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> From:
Dr. Barry Simmons <bsdds at bellsouth.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Black 100M
> To:
Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, May 14, 2011, 5:00 PM
> I wish to
purchase a BMIHT
> certificate-black or black w/red cove factory 100M. If
>
current color is different, that would be ok. I would
> appreciate any help
finding one, particularly one that is a
> driver. Please, no previous
collision/frame  damage
> Barry Simmons  Athens, Ga. 30605
> Tele: 706 546
1716       Email: bsdds at bellsouth.net
>
_______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat May 14 20:23:11 2011
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 22:23:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine gaskets
In-Reply-To: <40509.5595.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <40509.5595.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimPKju-XTTiyhWJ3iUjB4whUmZEZw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Greg,
Randomly changing gaskets is not the way to resolve oil leaks.
Start by thoroughly cleaning the engine with Gunk or a similar product.
Spend as much time as it takes to get it thoroughly clean from top to bottom
then you have a chance of finding the source of the problem and correcting
it.
There are 5 types of oil leaks.
Static, which occur without the engine running. These are usually isolated
to the drain plug or a crack in the pan.
Pressure leaks occur as a result of the engine's oil pressure . These
include gallery plugs, filter cans and housings, distributor feed seals etc.

Return leaks are probably the most common and are the result of bad gaskets
or distorted covers.
Blow by leaks are the hardest to solve and are similar to return leaks. They
are caused by crankcase pressure venting from the engine and carrying oil
vapor and mist with the escaping air. These usually require a rebuild and
include the very common rear main leak.
Dynamic leaks are often overlooked. These are caused by the oil in the pan
sloshing up against bad joints or seals as a result of the motion of the
car.
After cleaning place a sheet of corregated cardboard under the engine.
The trick is to examine the clean engine after cleaning and without running
it.(Static leaks)
Next run the engine at an idle for a few minutes and watch for drips onto
the cardboard. (Pressure, return and possibly blow by leaks)
If that does not produce a leak then take a short a run and check very
carefully for signs of oil on the outside of the engine.(Blowby and dynamic
leaks).
Engine oil leaks can be solved but it takes a methodical approach.

Michael Salter




On Sat, May 14, 2011 at 6:43 PM, Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I purchased a bunch of gaskets in hopes to stop the oil leaks so I can park
> in my friends' driveways and still be friends after I leave.
>
> I'm starting with the engine gaskets I can get to easily. Is there anything
> I need to know before I drop the pan? Should I locktite the pan screws when
> I reassemble? Should I use a gasket sealer?
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Sat May 14 20:44:10 2011
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 22:44:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AUSTIN ATLANTIC CONVERTIBLE TOP?
In-Reply-To: <914525512.395259.1305411814293.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <914525512.395259.1305411814293.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CDE0C11A97E3A9-1F4C-4BEC6@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com>

 The Atlantic expert resides in England.  His name is Mark Yeomans and can be
reached at yeomans3 at btinternet.com.  My guess is you'll have to have your top
custom made, especially if you're a resident of the United States, where only
a handful were sold.

Bill Wilkman








-----Original Message-----
From: raymead at comcast.net
To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 14, 2011 5:23 pm
Subject: [Healeys] AUSTIN ATLANTIC CONVERTIBLE TOP?


hi all,



(at least this post is 1/2 Austin-Healey)!



Anyone know where I can get a new convertible top for an Austin Atlantic?



tks, ray
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Sat May 14 21:02:10 2011
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 23:02:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Jumping procedure
Message-ID: <62FBCEB9B49E4AC6A911D3DAE1683571@655vb01>

Thanks to everyone who responded regarding my question on how to jump start a
positive ground car with a negative donor car.
Elton

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat May 14 22:06:43 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 00:06:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 M color
In-Reply-To: <3FEB0664-B43C-4DC9-9286-000A33024972@gmail.com>
References: <3FEB0664-B43C-4DC9-9286-000A33024972@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002201cc12b5$8026d1b0$80747510$@net>

Randy, 

Currently I show only 7 Black over Red substantiated factory M's in the
Hundred Registry. This of course has nothing to do with how many were
originally built, but it does offer a ratio of how few may survive.

Rich Chrysler
Hundred Registrar

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randy Hicks
Sent: 2011-05-14 4:52
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] 100 M color

I'm traveling right now but am trying to answer a question.

Does anyone know the number of Black / Red and solid Black 100 M's built? I
believe the info was in the Gary Anderson/Roger Moment restoration guide or
Clausenger (sp?) book. Anyone got it handy?

TIA,

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From britishcars at shaw.ca  Sat May 14 22:28:12 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 21:28:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ8 engine gaskets
Message-ID: <000e01cc12b8$80c41bc0$824c5340$@ca>

Before I did anything, I would wipe down the underside of the engine really
well and then start the car and then take it for a run.....  when you come
back, see if you can find where it is leaking from.....you may find that the
pan gasket is not the guilty party at all.  It might be the rear engine seal
,the front seal on the timing chain cover, the oil seal on the mainshaft,
the rear seal on the output shaft, the gasket on the overdrive solenoid
cover or........

My point being, the pan gasket and the two 4"x1/4" cork gaskets at the main
caps are the easiest to repair but, also the least likely to leak....chances
are it is one of the aforementioned none of which are an easy job to
address.

The most likely guilty party in a leaking healey (and there are lot's of
guilty parties), is the rear engine seal...and the only effective solution
to this is an aftermarket seal kit (from Moss, Denis Welch etc).  They can
be installed without taking the engine out of the car.  However, the
transmission does have to come out and you do need to machine your rear
engine plate (or buy a machined one).  A leaking rear engine seal can look
like a leaking pan gasket in that the runs down the rear engine plate on the
engine side of the plate and looks like it is coming from the rear of the
pan.

I've found that the pan itself only leaks at the end caps where the 4"long
by 1/4" square cork gaskets are inserted.  After numerous experiments, I
found that putting silicone in the grove where this cork gasket goes before
inserting the gasket stops the leaks....  With respect to the pan gasket
itself, I always put a thin coat of Hylomar on each side of the cork gasket
before putting the pan back on....I do not use Loctite on the pan
screws....also, do not overtighten the pan screws as all you do is squish
the cork gasket to a point that it is no longer effective.

If the front timing cover seal is leaking, it should be obvious  However,
the pan does not have to come off to fix this...the damper does which means
the radiator is likely coming out etc etc.

You won't be able to tell if the transmission input shaft is leaking without
pulling the transmission....If oil is coming out of the bell housing, it
could be the input shaft seal or, the rear engine seal.

My point being, before you start pulling stuff apart, find out what's
leaking.

Good luck
Paul

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sat May 14 23:46:11 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 15:46:11 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimEWS5oFwaoeHKgFckeSatwJmpyrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com><506278.73842.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTimEWS5oFwaoeHKgFckeSatwJmpyrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <246199A9F0FC405E98B5224959CD2261@Notebook>

...and since when do 100s start on a turn of the key as this one does at 
about 4:15 and again at about 5:25

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl (which starts on the turn of the key)
BN1 Holden V6 (which doesn't)

-----Original Message----- 
From: I Erbs
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 8:08 AM
To: Ron Mitchell
Cc: List Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 in French movie

I wad told my old friend Fred Cohen used to own the car. He got $125,000 for
it in eRly 80s

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 14, 2011 1:32 PM, "Ron Mitchell" <healeyron at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I enjoyed watching that clip but I noticed in the RH Column the 100-S that
sold
> at Amelia Island for a record $632,500. I guess that one slipped by me.
Did
> anyone else notice or is that old news. Anyone know who the owner was /
is?
> Chassis no. AH-3707.
>
> Back to the video. Is that proper parking position for the Windshield
Wipers on
> a BN2?
>
> Ron
> 62 BN7 TriCarb
> 59 BN5 100-6

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May 15 01:10:33 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 09:10:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine gaskets
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimPKju-XTTiyhWJ3iUjB4whUmZEZw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <40509.5595.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTimPKju-XTTiyhWJ3iUjB4whUmZEZw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DCF7C69.8040604@chello.nl>

Op 15-5-2011 4:23, Michael Salter schreef:
> Engine oil leaks can be solved but it takes a methodical approach.
Not on a British car you don't. May temporarily but not permanently.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Sun May 15 05:29:36 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 06:29:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <306463.41705.qm@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <31C8CE95-3A2A-4E81-8CA9-CF36F0D9658C@cox.net>
	<306463.41705.qm@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <019601cc12f3$5fc9b7f0$1f5d27d0$@qwest.net>

http://www.ultimateracinghistory.com/race.php?raceid=10705

This source indicates that Jim Hall was not even in the race, much less the
winner.

Herb Miller

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2011 3:46 PM
Cc: healeylist List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6

OK, I'll give him that, it's a "rare" 1959 BN6, although it's an odd way of
defining rarity in Healey models.  And I suppose being the first car out of
the parking lot after Jim Hall dusted the field constitutes "racing'  at the
Glen Sports Car Grand Prix? ;-)

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 5/14/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:

From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6
To:
Cc: "healeylist List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, May 14, 2011, 4:24 PM

Actually that number (249) is right for 1959 BN6s.
It's not significant because the same model was made in 58 as well.

The 355 BN7 is significant because there are only 355 tri-carb two- seat
3000s.

Wilko
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun May 15 05:49:23 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 04:49:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
Message-ID: <302468.83824.qm@web161207.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Herb,

I stand corrected.  I don't know what site I found the Chaparral info on. 
Nevertheless, I still didn't see a BN6 in the list of entrants. 

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 5/15/11, Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net> wrote:

From: Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Racing BN6
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Cc: "'healeylist List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, May 15, 2011, 7:29 AM

http://www.ultimateracinghistory.com/race.php?raceid=10705

This source indicates that Jim Hall was not even in the race, much less the
winner.

Herb Miller

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
 [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2011 3:46 PM
Cc: healeylist List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6

OK, I'll give him that, it's a "rare" 1959 BN6, although it's an odd way of
defining rarity in Healey models.  And I suppose being the first car out of
the parking lot after Jim Hall dusted the field constitutes "racing'  at the
Glen Sports Car Grand Prix? ;-)

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 5/14/11, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:

From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6
To:
Cc: "healeylist List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, May 14, 2011, 4:24 PM

Actually that number (249) is right for 1959 BN6s.
It's not significant because the same model was made in 58 as well.

The 355 BN7 is significant because there are only 355 tri-carb two- seat
3000s.

Wilko
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May 15 06:06:22 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 14:06:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <019601cc12f3$5fc9b7f0$1f5d27d0$@qwest.net>
References: <31C8CE95-3A2A-4E81-8CA9-CF36F0D9658C@cox.net>
	<306463.41705.qm@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<019601cc12f3$5fc9b7f0$1f5d27d0$@qwest.net>
Message-ID: <4DCFC1BE.7070004@chello.nl>

AFAIAC such dash plates were issued to commemorate the participation of 
such a car in the event, not that the car itself participated.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun May 15 07:15:46 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 06:15:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <4DCFC1BE.7070004@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <434631.59854.qm@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

When I used to attend the U.S. Grand Prix at Watkins Glen I would  buy two
souvenirs:  one was the always wonderful Michael Turner poster of the event,
the other was a dash plaque of the event that I affixed to my Fiat 124
Spider.  I wouldn't consider that as provenance that either my Fiat or myself
had participated in a Grand Prix other than being one of the unwashed masses
that drank too much beer and cheered on our heroes.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 5/15/11, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6
To: "Herbert Miller" <hgmiller3 at qwest.net>
Cc: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>, "'healeylist List'"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, May 15, 2011, 8:06 AM

AFAIAC such dash plates were issued to commemorate the participation of such a
car in the event, not that the car itself participated.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com  Sun May 15 07:27:58 2011
From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 06:27:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
Message-ID: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

just installed my original bj8 center shift trans and used a new clutch plate ,the issue i'm having is that its alittle difficult getting in 1st gear all the others shift good any sugestions 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 15 07:56:19 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 06:56:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
In-Reply-To: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DCFDB83.9080102@comcast.net>

What do you mean by 'difficult?'   Healey transmissions have no synchros in first--except BN1s, maybe?--so it's always 
trickier to select first gear.

To mitigate this problem, you can:

1) never/rarely use first gear (except when you're pulling stumps with your BJ8)
2) if you're not going to be stopped for long--don't want to wear out the throwout 'bearing'--shift into first when 
you're just barely moving (forward)
3) if you need/want first, push the clutch pedal in all the way then just start to shift into second gear, then shift 
into first (sometimes called 'kissing' second)

I'm guessing from your post you had something different than a BJ8 transmission in before?

Bob



On 5/15/2011 6:27 AM, Ralph Cap wrote:
> just installed my original bj8 center shift trans and used a new clutch plate ,the issue i'm having is that its alittle difficult getting in 1st gear all the others shift good any sugestions
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun May 15 07:58:39 2011
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 09:58:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <434631.59854.qm@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <434631.59854.qm@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DCFDC0F.5070301@earthlink.net>

woke one year to find snow on the ground.

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 05/15/2011 09:15 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> When I used to attend the U.S. Grand Prix at Watkins Glen I would  buy two
> souvenirs:  one was the always wonderful Michael Turner poster of the event,
> the other was a dash plaque of the event that I affixed to my Fiat 124
> Spider.  I wouldn't consider that as provenance that either my Fiat or myself
> had participated in a Grand Prix other than being one of the unwashed masses
> that drank too much beer and cheered on our heroes.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sun, 5/15/11, Oudesluys<coudesluijs at chello.nl>  wrote:
>
> From: Oudesluys<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6
> To: "Herbert Miller"<hgmiller3 at qwest.net>
> Cc: "'HealeyRick'"<healeyrick at yahoo.com>, "'healeylist List'"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, May 15, 2011, 8:06 AM
>
> AFAIAC such dash plates were issued to commemorate the participation of such a
> car in the event, not that the car itself participated.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun May 15 08:07:01 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 22:07:01 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
In-Reply-To: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim75YitO8wChY762evZtpnJFVnJ3g@mail.gmail.com>

Ralph -

Your gearbox has a no-synchro first gear.  This means you must "touch"
second gear before shifting into first or reverse (using the second
gear synchro to spin up the gear).  You must also be at a complete
stop when you do this.

Alan


On 5/15/11, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> just installed my original bj8 center shift trans and used a new clutch
> plate ,the issue i'm having is that its alittle difficult getting in 1st
> gear all the others shift good any sugestions
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun May 15 08:22:20 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 07:22:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Racing BN6
In-Reply-To: <4DCFDC0F.5070301@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <924589.48807.qm@web161216.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Me too.  Sometime in the early 70s I think.  Still, the Glen area was
beautiful in the fall with all the foliage and was always featured in Michael
Turner's posters.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 5/15/11, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6
To: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Cc: "'healeylist List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, May 15, 2011, 9:58 AM

woke one year to find snow on the ground.

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 05/15/2011 09:15 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> When I used to attend the U.S. Grand Prix at Watkins Glen I would  buy two
> souvenirs:  one was the always wonderful Michael Turner poster of the
event,
> the other was a dash plaque of the event that I affixed to my Fiat 124
> Spider.  I wouldn't consider that as provenance that either my Fiat or
myself
> had participated in a Grand Prix other than being one of the unwashed
masses
> that drank too much beer and cheered on our heroes.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sun, 5/15/11, Oudesluys<coudesluijs at chello.nl>  wrote:
>
> From: Oudesluys<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Racing BN6
> To: "Herbert Miller"<hgmiller3 at qwest.net>
> Cc: "'HealeyRick'"<healeyrick at yahoo.com>, "'healeylist List'"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, May 15, 2011, 8:06 AM
>
> AFAIAC such dash plates were issued to commemorate the participation of such
a
> car in the event, not that the car itself participated.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun May 15 08:31:38 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 10:31:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  100 M color
Message-ID: <002d01cc130c$cd2a2b90$677e82b0$@net>

Hello Randy,

Further to my note below, I should point out that to give this ratio some
perspective, I have just counted up the number of Le Mans kit equipped and
factory M cars currently in the Hundred Registry that I maintain indicates
the following:

BN1 Le Mans kit installed: 40
BN1 Le Mans kit installed at Warwick: 2
BN2 Le Mans kit installed: 43
Factory BN2M: 127

Please note that these numbers are what I have gathered in the Hundred
Registry and do not reflect the data gathered and maintained by Bill Meade
in his independent 100/M and Le Mans Registry.

Rich Chrysler
Hundred Registrar



-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] 
Sent: 2011-05-15 12:07
To: 'Randy Hicks'; 'Healey List'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 M color

Randy, 

Currently I show only 7 Black over Red substantiated factory M's in the
Hundred Registry. This of course has nothing to do with how many were
originally built, but it does offer a ratio of how few may survive.

Rich Chrysler
Hundred Registrar

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May 15 08:33:05 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 16:33:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
In-Reply-To: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DCFE421.20900@chello.nl>

If it does not go away after a few rides check:
Clutch not disengaging fully or dragging on the splines (did you remove 
the paint from the splines of the pressure plate?). Bleed the clutch 
system again and if the fault persists clean and inspect the splines for 
dirt, paint, damage etc. Refit using just a light dusting of graphite 
powder on the splines and rub in using a chamois leather. Grease or oil 
will attract dirt and can cause drag after a while.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun May 15 10:06:01 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 12:06:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
In-Reply-To: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CDE1311F06B7D6-28BC-26A11@webmail-d143.sysops.aol.com>

Ralph
The normal items to check as others have pointed out are that the hydraulics
work correctly, Correct length push rod at the slave, the release bearing is
the correct one and not worn and that clutch disc slides easily over the input
shaft splines. If the problem is not there be aware that there were a bunch of
clutch discs that were made a little too thick. They have the correct
thickness of friction material but the spring (wave) plate sandwiched in
between them is too wavy. This causes the disc to drag when the pedal is fully
depressed (hard to get into first gear) and if you put the gearbox in second
and hold the clutch pedal down while revving the engine you will start to
smell the aroma of "slipping clutch."  Probably not your problem but, as a
wise man once said, you never know what it was until you find out....
Aloha
Perry






-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, May 15, 2011 9:27 am
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans


just installed my original bj8 center shift trans and used a new clutch plate
the issue i'm having is that its alittle difficult getting in 1st gear all the
thers shift good any sugestions
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
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From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun May 15 11:17:22 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 12:17:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTim75YitO8wChY762evZtpnJFVnJ3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTim75YitO8wChY762evZtpnJFVnJ3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F867D208A14E429A8FF9CC39A2D8D07D@GregPC>

Alan, I agree with the method, but I am not sure about the theory, when 
going into unsynchronized 1st or reverse don't you want to make sure that 
the car is stopped and the transmission has stopped spinning, I thought a 
spinning tranny gave you a crunch, which is why it crunches if your clutch 
does not fully disengage (because the tranny is still spinning).  But I have 
never looked inside a tranny when this is all going on,  just lots of 
experience with non-synchro first gears in Sprites and Bs and such.

Getting back to the problem would help to know, difficulty getting into 
first, does it crunch or not want to go in at all when you push the lever?, 
if a crunch then likely most likely clutch/hydraulic problems, if it won't 
go in at all or is difficult more likely something in the gearbox or 
linkage.

Greg Lemon 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May 15 12:27:17 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 20:27:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
In-Reply-To: <F867D208A14E429A8FF9CC39A2D8D07D@GregPC>
References: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTim75YitO8wChY762evZtpnJFVnJ3g@mail.gmail.com>
	<F867D208A14E429A8FF9CC39A2D8D07D@GregPC>
Message-ID: <4DD01B05.2080606@chello.nl>

Even in fully synchronized modern gearboxes you can encounter difficult 
changing into 1srt or reverse from standstill and the trick is the same, 
just press onto synchro 2nd gear or select 2nd gear fully and than slot 
into 1st or reverse.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From barrie at look.ca  Sun May 15 12:38:39 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 14:38:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Unrelated subject - but wow!
Message-ID: <E1QLgDW-0007Qe-Lg@theta.look.ca>

This may be common knowledge to US residents but it came as a shock 
to us financially regulated, thank heavens, people up here

The DVD "Inside Job" is what I am referring to !   Holy Moses and 
great balls of fire!

Regards

Barrie Robinson

705-721-9060 (Canada)
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.AMFClub.com
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm            TRY 
www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies

From healeydan at wowway.com  Sun May 15 12:39:15 2011
From: healeydan at wowway.com (Daniel White)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 14:39:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly
In-Reply-To: <1692210687.927571.1305484625276.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <1483504367.927634.1305484755335.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>

Listers, 
I'm looking for a source for the correct spare tire hold down strap assembly for my 1962 BN7. My usual parts suppliers don't have it with the correct black roller buckle and black rivets. The leather also has to be black to match the black interior. Martin MacGregor of MacGregor Coachtrimming used to supply them, but the last time I spoke with him, he wasn't inclined to make up "just one". I tried Heritage, they don't do them. I'm close to going to Wal-Mart and buying a work belt. 

Hey Rich, how about if you call Martin and tell him it's for you, then you send it to me? Yes, I'll pay your finders fee! 

Regards, 
Dan 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun May 15 14:24:41 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 16:24:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly
In-Reply-To: <1483504367.927634.1305484755335.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
References: <1692210687.927571.1305484625276.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
	<1483504367.927634.1305484755335.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc133e$1f731e80$5e595b80$@net>

Dan,

Ah, yes, the classic case of where not enough folks are seeking and asking
for "the right stuff" so it doesn't get made. I spoke with Martin MacGregor
about these a while ago and he claims to be having difficulty finding the
correct roller buckle in black enamel.
Suggestions, anybody?

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Daniel White
Sent: 2011-05-15 2:39
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly

Listers, 
I'm looking for a source for the correct spare tire hold down strap assembly
for my 1962 BN7. My usual parts suppliers don't have it with the correct
black roller buckle and black rivets. The leather also has to be black to
match the black interior. Martin MacGregor of MacGregor Coachtrimming used
to supply them, but the last time I spoke with him, he wasn't inclined to
make up "just one". I tried Heritage, they don't do them. I'm close to going
to Wal-Mart and buying a work belt. 

Hey Rich, how about if you call Martin and tell him it's for you, then you
send it to me? Yes, I'll pay your finders fee! 

Regards, 
Dan 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sun May 15 14:25:54 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 22:25:54 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
Message-ID: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>

Hi
I'm trying to figure out the speedometer drive gearing inside the 
different gearboxes. I'm helping a friend with his speedometer. He has a 
100-6 which was delivered without overdrive. My own car is a 3000 mk2 
with overdrive. The rear axle gear ratio on these cars are the same, as 
far as I understand, according to Clausagers book. But the speedometers 
are different. The 3000 speedometer needs 980 revolutions per minute to 
show 60 (MPH) and advance the odometer 1 mile in one minute. The 100-6 
speedometer needs 1575 revolutions per minute to do the same thing. Note 
that both cars are imported from the states, so both are speedos are in 
miles.
Does anyone know what the difference is? Well, I can calculate it of 
course, but I thought asking on the list would be safe in case I have 
got something wrong.

Best regards, Per from Sweden.

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Sun May 15 14:43:08 2011
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 16:43:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly
In-Reply-To: <000001cc133e$1f731e80$5e595b80$@net>
References: <1692210687.927571.1305484625276.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com><1483504367.927634.1305484755335.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
	<000001cc133e$1f731e80$5e595b80$@net>
Message-ID: <BLU166-ds19281E62E616DC4354396BB38A0@phx.gbl>

How about Heritage Leathers?  http://www.heritageleathercw.com
GaryB

-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Chrysler
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 4:24 PM
To: 'Daniel White' ; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly

Dan,

Ah, yes, the classic case of where not enough folks are seeking and asking
for "the right stuff" so it doesn't get made. I spoke with Martin MacGregor
about these a while ago and he claims to be having difficulty finding the
correct roller buckle in black enamel.
Suggestions, anybody?

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Daniel White
Sent: 2011-05-15 2:39
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly

Listers,
I'm looking for a source for the correct spare tire hold down strap assembly
for my 1962 BN7. My usual parts suppliers don't have it with the correct
black roller buckle and black rivets. The leather also has to be black to
match the black interior. Martin MacGregor of MacGregor Coachtrimming used
to supply them, but the last time I spoke with him, he wasn't inclined to
make up "just one". I tried Heritage, they don't do them. I'm close to going
to Wal-Mart and buying a work belt.

Hey Rich, how about if you call Martin and tell him it's for you, then you
send it to me? Yes, I'll pay your finders fee!

Regards,
Dan
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 15 16:51:32 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 15:51:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net>

Per,

AFAIK, all 6-cyl cars with O/D came with 3.91 differential ratios.  The non-O/D cars came with 3.54 rearends (else they 
would run very high RPMs at highway speeds).  The 3.54 is a popular retrofit for the O/D cars to make them cruise even 
easier (I have one in my BJ8).

Look closely at the face of your speedo--you should see a little '1000' on the right below the needle.  That means the 
speedo is geared to indicate one mile of travel for 1000 revolutions (I don't know where you got 980, but you were 
close).  Look at your friend's speedo--the number should be smaller since you'll travel farther with each revolution of 
the driveshaft (a rough calc yields 905 or so).  1575 is way off--how did you arrive at that number?

The calibration for MPH is done by moving the needle (there is also a tiny brass screw on the support 'collar' for the 
needle shaft that seems to affect calibration, but it's mostly a mystery to me).

Bob

On 5/15/2011 1:25 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
> Hi
> I'm trying to figure out the speedometer drive gearing inside the different gearboxes. I'm helping a friend with his 
> speedometer. He has a 100-6 which was delivered without overdrive. My own car is a 3000 mk2 with overdrive. The rear 
> axle gear ratio on these cars are the same, as far as I understand, according to Clausagers book. But the speedometers 
> are different. The 3000 speedometer needs 980 revolutions per minute to show 60 (MPH) and advance the odometer 1 mile 
> in one minute. The 100-6 speedometer needs 1575 revolutions per minute to do the same thing. Note that both cars are 
> imported from the states, so both are speedos are in miles.
> Does anyone know what the difference is? Well, I can calculate it of course, but I thought asking on the list would be 
> safe in case I have got something wrong.
>
> Best regards, Per from Sweden.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sun May 15 17:16:02 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 16:16:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine gaskets
Message-ID: <747185.21589.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Thanks all for your advice and methodical processes. I will follow them
praying for the best.  An engine rebuild is not in the budget at the moment. 
I figure I'd start with the easy ones, as the car sat in a Georgia (read: hot
southern state) barn for 30 years and need changing due to age if nothing
else.

Does anyone have a recommendation for an eastern Connecticut mechanic who has
done the rear seal mod?
Greg

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Sun May 15 17:17:22 2011
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 19:17:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <4DD05F02.4030601@htcnet.org>

If you will check the parts manual, it will show a rear end ratio of 
3.545 for non overdrive cars and 3.90 for those fitted with overdrive.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 5/15/2011 4:25 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
> Hi
> I'm trying to figure out the speedometer drive gearing inside the 
> different gearboxes. I'm helping a friend with his speedometer. He has 
> a 100-6 which was delivered without overdrive. My own car is a 3000 
> mk2 with overdrive. The rear axle gear ratio on these cars are the 
> same, as far as I understand, according to Clausagers book. But the 
> speedometers are different. The 3000 speedometer needs 980 revolutions 
> per minute to show 60 (MPH) and advance the odometer 1 mile in one 
> minute. The 100-6 speedometer needs 1575 revolutions per minute to do 
> the same thing. Note that both cars are imported from the states, so 
> both are speedos are in miles.
> Does anyone know what the difference is? Well, I can calculate it of 
> course, but I thought asking on the list would be safe in case I have 
> got something wrong.
>
> Best regards, Per from Sweden.

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sun May 15 17:19:47 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 01:19:47 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>
  <4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>

Hi
I didn't calculate those numbers, that's the numbers that are written on 
the faces of the speedos. Are you saying that you have 1000 on your speedo?
Clausager says that 100-6 came with 4.1 for overdrive, 3.909 without. 
and 3000 came with 3.909 with overdrive, 3.545 without.
The 3.545 must be very rare I think, wish I had one.

Best regards, Per from Sweden

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sun May 15 17:26:15 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 01:26:15 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD05F02.4030601@htcnet.org>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>
  <4DD05F02.4030601@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <4DD06117.7070501@bredband.net>

Hi again
I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is a difference in the gear 
ratio of the speedometer drive (the thing on the gearbox output shaft 
that drives the speedometer cable) on cars with overdrive versus cars 
without overdrive.

Per from Sweden

John Vrugtman skrev 2011-05-16 01:17:
> If you will check the parts manual, it will show a rear end ratio of
> 3.545 for non overdrive cars and 3.90 for those fitted with overdrive.
>
> John
> 64/66 BJ8s
>
> On 5/15/2011 4:25 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
>> Hi
>> I'm trying to figure out the speedometer drive gearing inside the
>> different gearboxes. I'm helping a friend with his speedometer. He has
>> a 100-6 which was delivered without overdrive. My own car is a 3000
>> mk2 with overdrive. The rear axle gear ratio on these cars are the
>> same, as far as I understand, according to Clausagers book. But the
>> speedometers are different. The 3000 speedometer needs 980 revolutions
>> per minute to show 60 (MPH) and advance the odometer 1 mile in one
>> minute. The 100-6 speedometer needs 1575 revolutions per minute to do
>> the same thing. Note that both cars are imported from the states, so
>> both are speedos are in miles.
>> Does anyone know what the difference is? Well, I can calculate it of
>> course, but I thought asking on the list would be safe in case I have
>> got something wrong.
>>
>> Best regards, Per from Sweden.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1375 / Virus Database: 1500/3639 - Release Date: 05/15/11

From barrie at look.ca  Sun May 15 12:57:45 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 14:57:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimEWS5oFwaoeHKgFckeSatwJmpyrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <780437.69077.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<506278.73842.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTimEWS5oFwaoeHKgFckeSatwJmpyrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1QLl3t-0003d2-Km@beta.look.ca>

I think there is at least one phony 100-S out there.   It was made 
from bits and pieces and the plate was "sort of reproduced".



At 06:08 PM 5/14/2011, I Erbs wrote:
>I wad told my old friend Fred Cohen used to own the car. He got $125,000 for
>it in eRly 80s
>
>Ira Erbs
>DIGS-4 Solutions
>Portland, OR
>
>sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
>my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>
>On May 14, 2011 1:32 PM, "Ron Mitchell" <healeyron at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I enjoyed watching that clip but I noticed in the RH Column the 100-S that
>sold
> > at Amelia Island for a record $632,500. I guess that one slipped by me.
>Did
> > anyone else notice or is that old news. Anyone know who the owner was /
>is?
> > Chassis no. AH-3707.
> >
> > Back to the video. Is that proper parking position for the Windshield
>Wipers on
> > a BN2?
> >
> > Ron
> > 62 BN7 TriCarb
> > 59 BN5 100-6
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande at yahoo.com>
> > To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thu, May 12, 2011 7:25:16 PM
> > Subject: [Healeys] 100 in French movie
> >
> > Enjoyed this clip: almost 7 minutes of a 100 in a French movie.
> > JP using the "Le Mans" way to enter the car around 7'15".
> > I'll need to practice! ;-)
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5QeOwKzY60
> >
> > Bert
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060  

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun May 15 18:05:38 2011
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 00:05:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>, <4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net>,
	<4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <BAY166-w12665383A2F97BD22B1D40A58D0@phx.gbl>

Actually calibration is accomplished by a special device that uses
electromagnetism to gauss or degaussing the aluminum disc in the speedometer
head to provide more or less magnetic flux acting against iron rotor. I
learned this when I went in to bug Margaret Lucas about why she had my speedo
so long. For that reason they can calibrate any speedo to run with about any
gear ratio/tire diameter combination.

I doubt very much if the drive gears on the transmission output shaft are
different, although I think Triumph was into such foolishness. I think you
could determine the truth by comparing the part numbers between the various
models.

Actually Per, the 3.545 gears are not as rare as they used to be. Contact Mike
Lempert as he is producing runs of these batches of these gears. I have a set
in my BN1 and it's like a magic carpet...


Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

> Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 01:19:47 +0200
> From: healeyguy at bredband.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
>
> Hi
> I didn't calculate those numbers, that's the numbers that are written on
> the faces of the speedos. Are you saying that you have 1000 on your speedo?
> Clausager says that 100-6 came with 4.1 for overdrive, 3.909 without.
> and 3000 came with 3.909 with overdrive, 3.545 without.
> The 3.545 must be very rare I think, wish I had one.
>
> Best regards, Per from Sweden
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Sun May 15 18:10:22 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 20:10:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly
Message-ID: <010777119D83471385C1D1E8D05534BE@9535DEE118EC44B>

You can sort through hundreds of buckles on the internet, and still not find
the correct buckle used on the BN6/ 7 tire strap.  Its called a Center Bar
Roller Buckle in the 3/4" size and looks much like this:
http://store.ryansproducts.com/cebarrobubr.html

Healey buckle is flat, not slightly bowed like above.  Beware fake, cast-in,
non functional rollers.  Also, an industrial process to paint it black is
preferred, as your Humbrol enamel likely won't stand up over time.

Plain black leather harness straps ( 3/4" and without embossed edge strips)
are easily custom cut at a harness or leather equipment shop for a few bucks.
They have a one-handed tool that goes "zip" and there's your strap.  The short
buckle piece in the trunk is 6" plus 2 foldovers, and the main piece on the
battery lid is 36" plus one foldover.   Pointed end is preferably die-cut at
the harness shop, although you can try to cut it by eye (near impossible to
get even).  The black two-piece Speedy Rivets can be had from fastener
specialists like Spae Naur up here in Canada.  Don't forget to incorporate the
two Footmans Loops tightly into the two straps before rivetting.  The best
rotary hole punches have cast handles.

.....now try and find a vintage tonneau cover zipper slider with the Healey's
2" long pull, made by ICI Lightning in the huge Kynoch Works at Witton,
Birmingham.

Best regards
Peter

From pennell at cox.net  Sun May 15 18:15:37 2011
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 20:15:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <20110515201537.83HY0.450418.imail@eastrmwml47>

Per,

Cannot answer your question.  But is there perhaps enough difference in the 3rd and 4th gears in the gearbox of the two cars to require the different speedos?  Just a thought.  However, 980 compared to 1575 seems like a whopping difference for so little variation in the gearbox or rearend.

Keith

---- Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net> wrote: 
> Hi
> I'm trying to figure out the speedometer drive gearing inside the 
> different gearboxes. I'm helping a friend with his speedometer. He has a 
> 100-6 which was delivered without overdrive. My own car is a 3000 mk2 
> with overdrive. The rear axle gear ratio on these cars are the same, as 
> far as I understand, according to Clausagers book. But the speedometers 
> are different. The 3000 speedometer needs 980 revolutions per minute to 
> show 60 (MPH) and advance the odometer 1 mile in one minute. The 100-6 
> speedometer needs 1575 revolutions per minute to do the same thing. Note 
> that both cars are imported from the states, so both are speedos are in 
> miles.
> Does anyone know what the difference is? Well, I can calculate it of 
> course, but I thought asking on the list would be safe in case I have 
> got something wrong.
> 
> Best regards, Per from Sweden.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sun May 15 18:18:48 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 17:18:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ8 engine gaskets
In-Reply-To: <BAY166-w51ACD08034F3C7BAAC1236A58A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <718885.84425.qm@web65906.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Bill,
No problem telling the difference.  The engine oil is black and deservingly
so. 
Greg

--- On Sun, 5/15/11, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] FW:  BJ8 engine gaskets
To: britishcars at shaw.ca, healeys at autox.team.net, gmandas at yahoo.com
Date: Sunday, May 15, 2011, 7:33 PM





 One comment, you can often tell if leaking oil at the bell housing is
engine or transmission leakage by the color of the oil. If it is dark or black
it is engine oil. If it is clean it is transmission oil.

If your engine oil is as clean as your transmission oil then the oil isn't
just leaking it is deserting due to boredom and looking for a place to hang
out where there is more action.

Bill Lawrence

From pennell at cox.net  Sun May 15 18:21:18 2011
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 20:21:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly
In-Reply-To: <1483504367.927634.1305484755335.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <20110515202118.YH7BI.450476.imail@eastrmwml47>

Daniel,

Faced the same thing with my BN7.  The car came with the buckle attached to about 6 inches of badly deteriorated leather.  Bought a child's belt of the proper width and style at a dept store.  Removed the new buckle (it merely unsnaped) and put on the orig buckle.  Then installed two rivets I got from a shoe repair shop, cut the leather to the needed length and punched the necessary holes.  Painted the rivet heads black and voila!  Total cost less than $5.

Keith

---- Daniel   White <healeydan at wowway.com> wrote: 
> Listers, 
> I'm looking for a source for the correct spare tire hold down strap assembly for my 1962 BN7. My usual parts suppliers don't have it with the correct black roller buckle and black rivets. The leather also has to be black to match the black interior. Martin MacGregor of MacGregor Coachtrimming used to supply them, but the last time I spoke with him, he wasn't inclined to make up "just one". I tried Heritage, they don't do them. I'm close to going to Wal-Mart and buying a work belt. 
> 
> Hey Rich, how about if you call Martin and tell him it's for you, then you send it to me? Yes, I'll pay your finders fee! 
> 
> Regards, 
> Dan 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun May 15 19:48:24 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 09:48:24 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
In-Reply-To: <4DD01B05.2080606@chello.nl>
References: <350838.39830.qm@web120111.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTim75YitO8wChY762evZtpnJFVnJ3g@mail.gmail.com>
	<F867D208A14E429A8FF9CC39A2D8D07D@GregPC> <4DD01B05.2080606@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=WeRjrtNuMeDyZHFCOFc2WKCoRkw@mail.gmail.com>

The first generation BMW mini had an unusual trick where you could
shift directly from 5th gear into reverse while driving at 120 kph on
the M25.  Don't ask how I know this.  Thankfully the lorries knew
enough to swerve around me.

Alan

2011/5/16 Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>:
> Even in fully synchronized modern gearboxes you can encounter difficult
> changing into 1srt or reverse from standstill and the trick is the same,
> just press onto synchro 2nd gear or select 2nd gear fully and than slot into
> 1st or reverse.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun May 15 20:12:43 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 21:12:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 M color
In-Reply-To: <3FEB0664-B43C-4DC9-9286-000A33024972@gmail.com>
References: <3FEB0664-B43C-4DC9-9286-000A33024972@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTiny6NpwO2ZZoNGPOnSJ=0uOmC9cZQ@mail.gmail.com>

Same here, I'm on the road until Wednesday, but I believe that I have the
numbers breakdown of all the 640 factory 100M color combinations.  From
memory I can tell you that OEW over black was by far the most popular with
well over 100 cars painted in this combination.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, May 14, 2011 at 3:51 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm traveling right now but am trying to answer a question.
>
> Does anyone know the number of Black / Red and solid Black 100 M's built? I
> believe the info was in the Gary Anderson/Roger Moment restoration guide or
> Clausenger (sp?) book. Anyone got it handy?
>
> TIA,
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Sun May 15 20:24:47 2011
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 19:24:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re:  Spare tire hold down strap assembly
Message-ID: <945062.94703.qm@web121808.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

From: Martin Jansen <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap assembly
To: "Daniel   White" <healeydan at wowway.com>
Received: Sunday, May 15, 2011, 10:20 PM

I have found buying strapping from men's stores or Walmart are generally an
inferior product and do not stand up well. In my experience I have found
excellent products at a horse bridal shop. They have excellent buckles and
leathers and will stitch anything.
Just bring in your buckle and they will work with it. They have excellent
assortment of leather belting.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sun May 15 20:25:19 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 02:25:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Thread size on pipe from oil pump by pass
Message-ID: <COL106-W2464D6062349170E7E8A6CC08D0@phx.gbl>

Listmates,
There is a pipe that screws into the bottom of the block on 6 cylinder
engines. It is the oil discharge pipe from the oil pump pressure relief valve.
At first impression it appears to be an American  1/4 x 18 pipe thread.
Although close, it is not.  Does anyone know what the thread pitch is on that
little pipe?  Is it some kind of British pipe thread?

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sun May 15 20:34:15 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 02:34:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Access door in surround for Webers
Message-ID: <col106-w49846EBAABBE2834E05B72C08D0@phx.gbl>

Is there anyone on the list that could provide me with a template of the
"works" door that was cut out of the front surround on the Rallye cars to
access the Weber carburetors?

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 15 21:24:15 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 20:24:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <BAY166-w12665383A2F97BD22B1D40A58D0@phx.gbl>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>,
	<4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net>,	<4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>
	<BAY166-w12665383A2F97BD22B1D40A58D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net>

I've been able to dial mine in by moving the needle, even going from a 3.91 to a 3.54 rearend (since the change was a 
constant 11% or so over the entire range of the speedo).    If you look closely, there is a little white dot below the 
needle peg (where you would register -5mph if you could).  This is where the needle should be set for a std--in this 
case 3.9--rearend.  I just moved the needle up a tad and calibrated against a GPS and a gear/speed plotter I found on 
the 'net.

My understanding is that the drive magnet can be 'recharged' if necessary, but it's news to me that you can de/gauss 
aluminum.  Come to think of it, I don't believe Al is magnetic so I'm not sure the drag cup is made of Al.  Again, not 
sure about this--anyone know?

Bob


On 5/15/2011 5:05 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> Actually calibration is accomplished by a special device that uses
> electromagnetism to gauss or degaussing the aluminum disc in the speedometer
> head to provide more or less magnetic flux acting against iron rotor. I
> learned this when I went in to bug Margaret Lucas about why she had my speedo
> so long. For that reason they can calibrate any speedo to run with about any
> gear ratio/tire diameter combination.
>
> I doubt very much if the drive gears on the transmission output shaft are
> different, although I think Triumph was into such foolishness. I think you
> could determine the truth by comparing the part numbers between the various
> models.
>
> Actually Per, the 3.545 gears are not as rare as they used to be. Contact Mike
> Lempert as he is producing runs of these batches of these gears. I have a set
> in my BN1 and it's like a magic carpet...
>
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sun May 15 23:11:52 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 01:11:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold-down
Message-ID: <86c54.6ef62910.3b020c18@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/15/11 1:30:22 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> I tried Heritage, they don't do them. I'm close to going to Wal-Mart and 
> buying a work belt.
> 
> Hey Rich, how about if you call Martin and tell him it's for you, then you 
> send it to me? Yes, I'll pay your finders fee!
> 
> Regards,
> Dan
> 
The Coachman's Loops are available through Moss (or were last time I 
looked. Check with the local Harley-Davidson dealer and find a shop that makes 
custom saddle-bags, and other leather trim. Roller buckles at least similar to 
the originals should be relatively easy to find, and riveted belt straps 
would be simple for them to make.

Gary

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon May 16 00:15:14 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 23:15:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Access door in surround for Webers
In-Reply-To: <col106-w49846EBAABBE2834E05B72C08D0@phx.gbl>
References: <col106-w49846EBAABBE2834E05B72C08D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001cc1390$9eb5e180$dc21a480$@ca>

I can provide a template for the one sold by Cape International...I've
installed it in my car....not sure if it's the same for the vintage Rally
Cars.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of richard mayor
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 7:34 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Access door in surround for Webers

Is there anyone on the list that could provide me with a template of the
"works" door that was cut out of the front surround on the Rallye cars to
access the Weber carburetors?

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Mon May 16 02:23:32 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 10:23:32 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] KN filter
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=ZsaLO-HHUBK=D6znZxQWwvKCkmg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Does any of You know if the 1.75 center hole pancake air filters will fit
under the bonnet of a BN4?

Gergo

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Mon May 16 02:24:18 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 10:24:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>,
	<4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net>,	<4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>
	<BAY166-w12665383A2F97BD22B1D40A58D0@phx.gbl>
	<4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DD0DF32.9000801@bredband.net>

Hi
Well, at least this thread started a little discussion. I think what I 
need now is access to a non overdrive gearbox. Anyone on the list with 
such a gearbox care for getting a little dirty? Calculate the number of 
turns on the prop shaft is required to turn the speedometer cable 1 
turn. I'll do the same on my car.

As far as I know the magnets are permanent magnets. I don't think 
permanent magnets change. If that would be the case every speedometer 
out there would be different and eventually give up. Magnetism is a 
science in itself, but as I have understood it a permanent magnet is 
made of a certain combination of materials and doesn't change. And you 
can not recharge it either.


Per in Sweden.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 16 02:43:05 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 10:43:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD0DF32.9000801@bredband.net>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>,
	<4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net>,	<4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>
	<BAY166-w12665383A2F97BD22B1D40A58D0@phx.gbl>
	<4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net> <4DD0DF32.9000801@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <4DD0E399.5060501@chello.nl>

As far as I know the restorers/rebuilders of old speedometers have two 
ways of calibration, the tension of the return spring and the degree of 
magnetizing the magnets. Magnets are made from special materials but 
after making them you have to magnetize them, which can be done to 
several degrees. Many older speedo's need to be remagnetized as in time 
the magnets may loose their magnetism and read low, a feat not uncommon 
to SMITHS/Jaeger speedo's.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Mon May 16 07:00:49 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 15:00:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD0E399.5060501@chello.nl>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net>,
	<4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net>,	<4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>
	<BAY166-w12665383A2F97BD22B1D40A58D0@phx.gbl>
	<4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net> <4DD0DF32.9000801@bredband.net>
	<4DD0E399.5060501@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4DD12001.7050205@bredband.net>

Hi
OK, on my car the prop shaft needs to be turned 16 times to turn the 
speedometer drive 5 full turns. That's a gear ratio of 3.2:1. It appears 
that my friend still have his old non overdrive gearbox in a corner 
somewhere in his garage. He will try to find it and count the turns for me.

Best regards, Per

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 16 07:36:09 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 08:36:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: [Spridgets] formula racing at Oregon State
 University; no  lbc content]
Message-ID: <4DD12849.60907@justbrits.com>

One of the Members of  "The Spridgets List"
 [ @ autoX dot team dot net ] posted below and it IS  KEWL  !!
Especially in these days of hardly any "Made in America !!
NEAT !!

-------- Original Message --------

Oregon State University has repeated as Formula SAE National Champions. 
http://tinyurl.com/65prukl
...bill in corvallis
_______________________________________________

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Mon May 16 08:25:48 2011
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 10:25:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] DMH signed mug
Message-ID: <4DD133EC.5010007@verizon.net>

     See - http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/clt/2383100225.html


                                                                         
                 CB

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon May 16 09:00:43 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 01:00:43 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8
Message-ID: <6E3096A7-2475-4C42-852F-58AA7B54CBB3@gmail.com>

Anyone have any experience with AH Spares leather seat covers for a  
BJ8? Or any other UK suppliers?

I'm in Australia, so it's covers/ kits, not complete seats, that I'm  
after.

Just looking, curious. Looking for recent feedback. Off list is fine/  
preferable.
Also spoken to Heritage. Pretty good feedback in the archives on those  
guys.

My BJ8 leather seats are still original. My issue is that after 45  
years, my upholstery is changing from patina to just plain tatty....

Thanks
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Mon May 16 09:14:14 2011
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 08:14:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>
References: <4DD036D2.2060104@bredband.net> 
	<4DD058F4.2090403@comcast.net> <4DD05F93.6080007@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <228508.85971.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you want one you can email Daniel Lempert of Lempert Wheel and  inquire if he 
will ship to Sweden.  He has just recently ordered a  quantity of them to be 
manufactured.  As far as I know he is still taking orders  


For details, email Dan at 354gears at gmail.com  To view the gear set go to
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/gears  

 The cost is $425.00 US.  You will have to ask him for the shipping cost to 
Sweden.

Ron Mitchell
62 BN7
59 BN6



________________________________
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>
To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 15, 2011 7:19:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing

Hi
I didn't calculate those numbers, that's the numbers that are written on the 
faces of the speedos. Are you saying that you have 1000 on your speedo?
Clausager says that 100-6 came with 4.1 for overdrive, 3.909 without. and 3000 
came with 3.909 with overdrive, 3.545 without.
The 3.545 must be very rare I think, wish I had one.

Best regards, Per from Sweden
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Mon May 16 10:35:45 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 18:35:45 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8
In-Reply-To: <6E3096A7-2475-4C42-852F-58AA7B54CBB3@gmail.com>
References: <6E3096A7-2475-4C42-852F-58AA7B54CBB3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimxWEtxmS0MLpK=+H2Yp5yRz4hD1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Chris,

I was happy with my seat covers from AH Spares. They were for a BN4,
although I imagine the quality should be the same for the BJ8 versions.
Rich will probably confirm Heritage are better overall quality, but I
believe they are more expensive?

cheers

Derek
On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 5:00 PM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>wrote:

> Anyone have any experience with AH Spares leather seat covers for a BJ8? Or
> any other UK suppliers?
>
> I'm in Australia, so it's covers/ kits, not complete seats, that I'm after.
>
> Just looking, curious. Looking for recent feedback. Off list is fine/
> preferable.
> Also spoken to Heritage. Pretty good feedback in the archives on those
> guys.
>
> My BJ8 leather seats are still original. My issue is that after 45 years,
> my upholstery is changing from patina to just plain tatty....
>
> Thanks
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon May 16 12:17:33 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 14:17:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8
In-Reply-To: <6E3096A7-2475-4C42-852F-58AA7B54CBB3@gmail.com>
References: <6E3096A7-2475-4C42-852F-58AA7B54CBB3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000d01cc13f5$870d68e0$95283aa0$@net>

Chris,

You refer to leather being in your BJ8. Although it was possible, leather in
a BJ8 is extremely rare outside of the U.K. and some European delivered
cars. 
Most were trimmed in I.C.I.s Ambla vinyl that had been developed as a direct
replacement for leather for the BJ8's. Some of the suppliers today can offer
either, but keep in mind the Ambla vinyl had silver braid piping inside
clear vinyl to trim the edges of the seat parts. This clear vinyl soon
yellowed in the sun, leaving the effect of the braid being gold coloured.
Also in the middle of the pleated areas there were very tiny squares
embossed in a pattern. Some but not all repro trimmed covers have these two
characteristics, which is worth checking.
I've seen plenty of BJ8's asking huge prices, but the seat upholstery is
usually lacking these details.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
Sent: 2011-05-16 11:01
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8

Anyone have any experience with AH Spares leather seat covers for a  
BJ8? Or any other UK suppliers?

I'm in Australia, so it's covers/ kits, not complete seats, that I'm  
after.

Just looking, curious. Looking for recent feedback. Off list is fine/  
preferable.
Also spoken to Heritage. Pretty good feedback in the archives on those  
guys.

My BJ8 leather seats are still original. My issue is that after 45  
years, my upholstery is changing from patina to just plain tatty....

Thanks
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon May 16 14:52:33 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 14:52:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering
Message-ID: <4DD18E91.3040401@bradakis.com>

Still having server issues.

mjb.

From raymead at comcast.net  Mon May 16 15:06:37 2011
From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 21:06:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather - shoepolish?????????
Message-ID: <101821324.485566.1305579997297.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

hello all,



The bolsters on my leather seats are worn............B  someone suggested I
simply use shoepolish on them (matching color, of course) - actually, they
said to use woman's shoe polish (are there seriously differences?)..........



They said it wouldn't rub off, etc., etc..............



Any thoughts?B B  (it is simply wear on the bolsters from rubbing against them
getting in and out).



tks, ray

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon May 16 15:59:08 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 05:59:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather - shoepolish?????????
In-Reply-To: <101821324.485566.1305579997297.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <101821324.485566.1305579997297.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinP5Pu8aFcMhSu60ttVmuAT7sL=aQ@mail.gmail.com>

Shoe polish will definitely rub off - it is basically wax and does not
soak in.  Bad idea.

I would recommend shoe creme(cream) or preferably shoe dye, both
widely available.

One advantage of shoe creme is it seems to come in a huge variety of
shades.  That being said shoe dye is your best bet .

Alan

On 5/17/11, raymead at comcast.net <raymead at comcast.net> wrote:
> hello all,
>
>
>
> The bolsters on my leather seats are worn............B  someone suggested I
> simply use shoepolish on them (matching color, of course) - actually, they
> said to use woman's shoe polish (are there seriously differences?)..........
>
>
>
> They said it wouldn't rub off, etc., etc..............
>
>
>
> Any thoughts?B B  (it is simply wear on the bolsters from rubbing against
> them
> getting in and out).
>
>
>
> tks, ray
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Mon May 16 16:09:27 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 08:09:27 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather - shoepolish?????????
In-Reply-To: <101821324.485566.1305579997297.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <101821324.485566.1305579997297.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6EC1944DC4BD47D2AA9D7EA0447F0A7C@Notebook>

G'day Ray

Try this mob: They can match anything from a small sample. I've used their 
products on the leather MX5 seats in my V6 car.

http://www.leatherique.com/

Cheers

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: raymead at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 7:06 AM
To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather - shoepolish?????????

hello all,



The bolsters on my leather seats are worn............B  someone suggested I
simply use shoepolish on them (matching color, of course) - actually, they
said to use woman's shoe polish (are there seriously differences?)..........



They said it wouldn't rub off, etc., etc..............



Any thoughts?B B  (it is simply wear on the bolsters from rubbing against 
them
getting in and out).



tks, ray

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Mon May 16 16:12:09 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 00:12:09 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather - shoepolish?????????
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinP5Pu8aFcMhSu60ttVmuAT7sL=aQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <101821324.485566.1305579997297.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BANLkTinP5Pu8aFcMhSu60ttVmuAT7sL=aQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DD1A139.3090300@bredband.net>

Hi
I have something called Leather feed, I got it in a car care kit when I 
bought a new car 10 years ago. It cleans the leather and makes it really 
soft and nice.

Per in Sweden

Alan Seigrist skrev 2011-05-16 23:59:
> Shoe polish will definitely rub off - it is basically wax and does not
> soak in.  Bad idea.
>
> I would recommend shoe creme(cream) or preferably shoe dye, both
> widely available.
>
> One advantage of shoe creme is it seems to come in a huge variety of
> shades.  That being said shoe dye is your best bet .
>
> Alan
>
> On 5/17/11, raymead at comcast.net<raymead at comcast.net>  wrote:
>> hello all,
>>
>>
>>
>> The bolsters on my leather seats are worn............B  someone suggested I
>> simply use shoepolish on them (matching color, of course) - actually, they
>> said to use woman's shoe polish (are there seriously differences?)..........
>>
>>
>>
>> They said it wouldn't rub off, etc., etc..............
>>
>>
>>
>> Any thoughts?B B  (it is simply wear on the bolsters from rubbing against
>> them
>> getting in and out).
>>
>>
>>
>> tks, ray
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon May 16 16:19:48 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 08:19:48 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8
In-Reply-To: <000d01cc13f5$870d68e0$95283aa0$@net>
References: <6E3096A7-2475-4C42-852F-58AA7B54CBB3@gmail.com>
	<000d01cc13f5$870d68e0$95283aa0$@net>
Message-ID: <F6A7A659-49F2-4485-9CB0-F41325812F15@gmail.com>

Hi Rich,
My BJ8 was delivered in England for private export.
The first owner bought the car, new from John Sprinzel, drove it in  
the UK for a year, then married his wife.
The next day, they set off on their honeymoon. They drove the BJ8 to  
Australia. Well, to Calcutta, then by boat to Sydney.
You can see the original sales invoice from John Sprinzel here: http://www.myaustinhealey.com/john-sprinzel-healey.html
Anyway - that's how come my BJ8 has Hide/ leather seats here in  
Australia.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 17/05/2011, at 4:17 AM, "Rich Chrysler"  
<richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Chris,
>
> You refer to leather being in your BJ8. Although it was possible,  
> leather in
> a BJ8 is extremely rare outside of the U.K. and some European  
> delivered
> cars.
> Most were trimmed in I.C.I.s Ambla vinyl that had been developed as  
> a direct
> replacement for leather for the BJ8's. Some of the suppliers today  
> can offer
> either, but keep in mind the Ambla vinyl had silver braid piping  
> inside
> clear vinyl to trim the edges of the seat parts. This clear vinyl soon
> yellowed in the sun, leaving the effect of the braid being gold  
> coloured.
> Also in the middle of the pleated areas there were very tiny squares
> embossed in a pattern. Some but not all repro trimmed covers have  
> these two
> characteristics, which is worth checking.
> I've seen plenty of BJ8's asking huge prices, but the seat  
> upholstery is
> usually lacking these details.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
> Sent: 2011-05-16 11:01
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8
>
> Anyone have any experience with AH Spares leather seat covers for a
> BJ8? Or any other UK suppliers?
>
> I'm in Australia, so it's covers/ kits, not complete seats, that I'm
> after.
>
> Just looking, curious. Looking for recent feedback. Off list is fine/
> preferable.
> Also spoken to Heritage. Pretty good feedback in the archives on those
> guys.
>
> My BJ8 leather seats are still original. My issue is that after 45
> years, my upholstery is changing from patina to just plain tatty....
>
> Thanks
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ____________________________

From pennell at cox.net  Mon May 16 16:35:03 2011
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 18:35:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20110516183503.5YYLU.466523.imail@eastrmwml41>

Bob, I agree.  How do you gauss or degauss aluminium?

Keith

---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: 
> but it's news to me that you can de/gauss 
> aluminum.  Come to think of it, I don't believe Al is magnetic so I'm not sure the drag cup is made of Al.  Again, not 
> sure about this--anyone know?
> 
> Bob

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon May 16 17:00:45 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 16:00:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <20110516183503.5YYLU.466523.imail@eastrmwml41>
References: <4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net>
	<20110516183503.5YYLU.466523.imail@eastrmwml41>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=DzO=BTTY_31CF1sN9usaMpYOOpg@mail.gmail.com>

Al. is not ferrous,therefore not magnetic.

On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 3:35 PM, <pennell at cox.net> wrote:

> Bob, I agree.  How do you gauss or degauss aluminium?
>
> Keith
>
> ---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> > but it's news to me that you can de/gauss
> > aluminum.  Come to think of it, I don't believe Al is magnetic so I'm not
> sure the drag cup is made of Al.  Again, not
> > sure about this--anyone know?
> >
> > Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR

We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein

From fmags at cox.net  Mon May 16 17:16:48 2011
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 18:16:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] leather seat covers, BJ8
Message-ID: <FB1245F99D28455A89B17EF23BE0DEB2@FrankPC>

Chris, try Healey Surgeons near Washington, DC.  I got a set of leather covers
for my BJ8 maybe 15 years ago and had them professionally installed.  They
turned out beautiful and still look just as good today.  I'm very happy with
them.

Frank

<Anyone have any experience with AH Spares leather seat covers for a
BJ8? Or any other UK suppliers?

I'm in Australia, so it's covers/ kits, not complete seats, that I'm
after.

Just looking, curious. Looking for recent feedback. Off list is fine/
preferable.
Also spoken to Heritage. Pretty good feedback in the archives on those
guys.

My BJ8 leather seats are still original. My issue is that after 45
years, my upholstery is changing from patina to just plain tatty....

Thanks
Chris>

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Mon May 16 17:53:56 2011
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 16:53:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8
In-Reply-To: <6E3096A7-2475-4C42-852F-58AA7B54CBB3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <834384.83433.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Chris,

I used John Peters at sportsclassics at aol.com in CT, USA.

Price was very good, quality was fine.  Some panel fitting was needed as with
all kits.  I can send you pics if you wish to see.  I have done a couple of
resto articles in the Healey Mags.


Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail at yahoo.com
 



--- On Mon, 5/16/11, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, May 16, 2011, 8:00 AM
> Anyone have any experience with AH
> Spares leather seat covers for a BJ8? Or any other UK
> suppliers?
>
> I'm in Australia, so it's covers/ kits, not complete seats,
> that I'm after.
>
> Just looking, curious. Looking for recent feedback. Off
> list is fine/ preferable.
> Also spoken to Heritage. Pretty good feedback in the
> archives on those guys.
>
> My BJ8 leather seats are still original. My issue is that
> after 45 years, my upholstery is changing from patina to
> just plain tatty....
>
> Thanks
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From barrie at look.ca  Mon May 16 18:18:51 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 20:18:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather - shoepolish?????????
In-Reply-To: <6EC1944DC4BD47D2AA9D7EA0447F0A7C@Notebook>
References: <101821324.485566.1305579997297.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<6EC1944DC4BD47D2AA9D7EA0447F0A7C@Notebook>
Message-ID: <E1QM81J-0001ZZ-6V@gamma.look.ca>

I used  this on my leather chair. Does not wear well.  I have used a 
bee's wax mixture (Tana) on shoes etc and it does soak in with a bit 
of heat - does not "wear"



At 06:09 PM 5/16/2011, Peter & Veronica wrote:
>G'day Ray
>
>Try this mob: They can match anything from a small sample. I've used 
>their products on the leather MX5 seats in my V6 car.
>
>http://www.leatherique.com/
>
>Cheers
>
>Peter
>
>-----Original Message----- From: raymead at comcast.net
>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 7:06 AM
>To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB
>Subject: [Healeys] worn leather - shoepolish?????????
>
>hello all,
>
>
>
>The bolsters on my leather seats are worn............B  someone suggested I
>simply use shoepolish on them (matching color, of course) - actually, they
>said to use woman's shoe polish (are there seriously differences?)..........
>
>
>
>They said it wouldn't rub off, etc., etc..............
>
>
>
>Any thoughts?B B  (it is simply wear on the bolsters from rubbing against them
>getting in and out).
>
>
>
>tks, ray
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
(705) 721-9060 

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon May 16 18:48:06 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 10:48:06 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimxWEtxmS0MLpK=+H2Yp5yRz4hD1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E3096A7-2475-4C42-852F-58AA7B54CBB3@gmail.com>
	<BANLkTimxWEtxmS0MLpK=+H2Yp5yRz4hD1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6FF8E752ECD4F6E912A7E660AB1D14D@PatrickQuinnPC>

Hello Chris

There is also the option of buying the leather hide and having the seats
professionally trim by a motor trimmer.

I have bought hides from Leffler Leather in Melbourne and had the trimming
done by Bill Ogg at Hytone Motor Trimming in Riverstone. I could point you
in the direction of a number of concours cars in our club where Bill has
done the trimming.

I would also recommend Walls at Brookvale who advertise in our magazine. Of
course both can easily source the leather for you.

Interestingly when I have bought leather hides in the past they have arrived
wrapped around a very long pole. Smells wonderful!

Best wishes

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 2:36 AM
To: Chris Dimmock
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leather seat covers BJ8

Chris,

I was happy with my seat covers from AH Spares. They were for a BN4,
although I imagine the quality should be the same for the BJ8 versions.
Rich will probably confirm Heritage are better overall quality, but I
believe they are more expensive?

cheers

Derek
On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 5:00 PM, Chris Dimmock
<austin.healey at gmail.com>wrote:

> Anyone have any experience with AH Spares leather seat covers for a BJ8?
Or
> any other UK suppliers?
>
> I'm in Australia, so it's covers/ kits, not complete seats, that I'm
after.
>
> Just looking, curious. Looking for recent feedback. Off list is fine/
> preferable.
> Also spoken to Heritage. Pretty good feedback in the archives on those
> guys.
>
> My BJ8 leather seats are still original. My issue is that after 45 years,
> my upholstery is changing from patina to just plain tatty....
>
> Thanks
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From editorgary at aol.com  Mon May 16 19:02:43 2011
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 21:02:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dieing upholstery
In-Reply-To: <mailman.34.1305586878.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.34.1305586878.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CDE2454322795A-199C-84595@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>

 Absolutely agree; the leatherique folks offer an excellent product,
custom-mixed to match your upholstery color.

Best
Gary


G'day Ray

Try this mob: They can match anything from a small sample. I've used their
products on the leather MX5 seats in my V6 car.

http://www.leatherique.com/

Cheers

Peter

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 16 19:06:55 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 18:06:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dieing upholstery
In-Reply-To: <8CDE2454322795A-199C-84595@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.34.1305586878.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<8CDE2454322795A-199C-84595@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DD1CA2F.40406@comcast.net>

FWIW, have used their leather cleaner and restorer--seems to work pretty good.

Bob


On 5/16/2011 6:02 PM, editorgary at aol.com wrote:
>   Absolutely agree; the leatherique folks offer an excellent product,
> custom-mixed to match your upholstery color.
>
> Best
> Gary
>
>
> G'day Ray
>
> Try this mob: They can match anything from a small sample. I've used their
> products on the leather MX5 seats in my V6 car.
>
> http://www.leatherique.com/
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Mon May 16 19:11:00 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 18:11:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dieing upholstery
In-Reply-To: <4DD1CA2F.40406@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.34.1305586878.12225.healeys@autox.team.net><8CDE2454322795A-199C-84595@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
	<4DD1CA2F.40406@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E5C108C@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

I used leatherique on my "well worn" Morgan this winter - absolutely
amazing - looks like new.




Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2011 6:07 PM
To: editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dieing upholstery

FWIW, have used their leather cleaner and restorer--seems to work pretty
good.

Bob


On 5/16/2011 6:02 PM, editorgary at aol.com wrote:
>   Absolutely agree; the leatherique folks offer an excellent product,
> custom-mixed to match your upholstery color.
>
> Best
> Gary
>
>
> G'day Ray
>
> Try this mob: They can match anything from a small sample. I've used
> their products on the leather MX5 seats in my V6 car.
>
> http://www.leatherique.com/
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
> _______________________________________________
>
>


--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon May 16 19:34:27 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 1:34:27 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Dieing upholstery
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E5C108C@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <20110517013428.A8RZ3.147450.root@cdptpa-web27-z02>

If I had "Dieing" upholstery I suppose I would try to revive it, perhaps with a proprietary product like "Hide Food"  Bdum bum.

On a more serious note I have used Kiwi (no jokes politicaly incorrect nationalistic jokes from the Aussies please) black shoe leather dye to good effect on vinyl and leather trim on my cars, cheap and easy fix, comes in a few other colors too, but maybe a little harder to match if not basic black.

Greg Lemon  

From bj7healey at gmail.com  Fri May 13 08:37:00 2011
From: bj7healey at gmail.com (Bob Slater)
Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 10:37:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
In-Reply-To: <4DBCF483.7060701@justbrits.com>
References: <4DBCF483.7060701@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=Mg1v7JL9ibYgLOhvNjLDvRkzZsw@mail.gmail.com>

Help
   Just purchased a new fuel tank for my BJ7 and the thread on the right
angle fitting is not standard,  I do not know what it is > I have to go from
this compression fitting thread to gas line hose to the fuel pump so need
some kind of an adapter ???

                                                      Bob 1963 BJ7

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon May 16 22:38:03 2011
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 04:38:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <20110516183503.5YYLU.466523.imail@eastrmwml41>
References: <4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net>,
	<20110516183503.5YYLU.466523.imail@eastrmwml41>
Message-ID: <BAY166-w5063070870DDC2BBA4E16BA58C0@phx.gbl>

Don't know. I just watched her do it. The machine may have worked on the
rotor. Since it is iron it probably did... But there is no mechanical
connection between the rotor and the ally disc, so there must be some type of
field. She said the magnetic field was working on the disc. She said that
sometimes the residual magnetism is lost when the instrument case is opened. I
doubt that would affect an iron magnet. Maybe the disc has a magnetic
component in it's alloy or some other means of supporting a magnetic field.
It's all FM to me.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 18:35:03 -0400
> From: pennell at cox.net
> To: bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
>
> Bob, I agree.  How do you gauss or degauss aluminium?
>
> Keith
>
> ---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> > but it's news to me that you can de/gauss
> > aluminum.  Come to think of it, I don't believe Al is magnetic so I'm not
sure the drag cup is made of Al.  Again, not
> > sure about this--anyone know?
> >
> > Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Tue May 17 00:18:28 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 08:18:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <BAY166-w5063070870DDC2BBA4E16BA58C0@phx.gbl>
References: <4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net>,
	<20110516183503.5YYLU.466523.imail@eastrmwml41>
	<BAY166-w5063070870DDC2BBA4E16BA58C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D8384CA53@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Bill,
No magnetic component in the alloy. What forces the aluminium disc to turn is
the so called electro-magnetical eddy current prinziple (sorry, hope this is
the right expression in English language).

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Gesendet: Dienstag, 17. Mai 2011 06:38
An: pennell at cox.net; bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing

Don't know. I just watched her do it. The machine may have worked on the
rotor. Since it is iron it probably did... But there is no mechanical
connection between the rotor and the ally disc, so there must be some type of
field. She said the magnetic field was working on the disc. She said that
sometimes the residual magnetism is lost when the instrument case is opened. I
doubt that would affect an iron magnet. Maybe the disc has a magnetic
component in it's alloy or some other means of supporting a magnetic field.
It's all FM to me.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 18:35:03 -0400
> From: pennell at cox.net
> To: bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
>
> Bob, I agree.  How do you gauss or degauss aluminium?
>
> Keith
>
> ---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> > but it's news to me that you can de/gauss aluminum.  Come to think
> > of it, I don't believe Al is magnetic so I'm not
sure the drag cup is made of Al.  Again, not
> > sure about this--anyone know?
> >
> > Bob

From Paull at glasgows.co.uk  Tue May 17 01:59:47 2011
From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 08:59:47 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 BN4 side screens
Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19F01@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>

Chaps



I am thinking of replacing my existing side screens (which are knackered
beyond repair) and was wondering whether anybody had any thoughts on the
quality of the reproductions offered by AH Spares and Ahead4healeys?



Many thanks



Paul Leeks

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 17 04:51:06 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 06:51:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
References: <4DBCF483.7060701@justbrits.com>
	<BANLkTi=Mg1v7JL9ibYgLOhvNjLDvRkzZsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003801cc1480$53100530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Most of the distributors have had this problem corrected.  Where did this 
come from and how
long ago.  For future reference if you don't mind.

Have you contacted the seller to see if they have updated their supply and 
can you exchange
to save you the hassle.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Slater" <bj7healey at gmail.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1


> Help
>   Just purchased a new fuel tank for my BJ7 and the thread on the right
> angle fitting is not standard,  I do not know what it is > I have to go 
> from
> this compression fitting thread to gas line hose to the fuel pump so need
> some kind of an adapter ???
>
>                                                      Bob 1963 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From autofarm at cyg.net  Tue May 17 05:09:31 2011
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 07:09:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
References: <4DBCF483.7060701@justbrits.com><BANLkTi=Mg1v7JL9ibYgLOhvNjLDvRkzZsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<003801cc1480$53100530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <738A0663AD614AD5B27F20CA19FF5CA6@OFFICE>

    I think it should be explained that the fitting on the tank was correct 
for the original fuel line.  The car in question had a different set up for 
a fuel line and it was that which was at fault.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Bob Slater" <bj7healey at gmail.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1


> Most of the distributors have had this problem corrected.  Where did this 
> come from and how
> long ago.  For future reference if you don't mind.
>
> Have you contacted the seller to see if they have updated their supply and 
> can you exchange
> to save you the hassle.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Slater" <bj7healey at gmail.com>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
>
>
>> Help
>>   Just purchased a new fuel tank for my BJ7 and the thread on the right
>> angle fitting is not standard,  I do not know what it is > I have to go 
>> from
>> this compression fitting thread to gas line hose to the fuel pump so need
>> some kind of an adapter ???
>>
>>                                                      Bob 1963 BJ7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net 

From kbeck100 at rcn.com  Tue May 17 05:45:47 2011
From: kbeck100 at rcn.com (Ken Beck)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 07:45:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 fuel pump mpunting
References: <20110517013428.A8RZ3.147450.root@cdptpa-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <4F38F185B4934327AD9A01BC3F682ADA@na719y7xok2egp>

Does the fuel pump bolt directly through the bulkhead without and brackets 
or rubber.  It seems there shoould be something to absorbe vibration but the 
pump holes line up with the holes in the bulkhead.

thanks
Ken Beck 

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Tue May 17 06:15:07 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 14:15:07 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100M colours
In-Reply-To: <mailman.304.1305629469.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AAA042F0FEF642EC8B0758C6160946AF@TM1>

According to AH 100 in detail, Bill Piggott:

OEW over black 117
Healey blue over black 108
Reno Red over black 92
Black over reno Red 71
OEW 62
Florida Green over white 55
Black 42
Healey Blue 39
Reno Red 23
Carmine Red 23
Spurce Green 5
Florida Green 3
Whire over Reno red 1
Black over pink 1

TOTAL 640


So, 42 original black cars....

Out of the 640, 544 were delivered in US, so your chances are greater  :-)

Best,

Tadek

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 17 06:41:49 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 05:41:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer gearing
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D8384CA53@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
References: <4DD098DF.9050503@comcast.net>,
	<20110516183503.5YYLU.466523.imail@eastrmwml41>
	<BAY166-w5063070870DDC2BBA4E16BA58C0@phx.gbl>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D8384CA53@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <4DD26D0D.6030309@comcast.net>

Vewy intewesting: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_current

Makes sense, and explains how a permanent magnet can induce an Al drag cup to turn.

Another 50 years or so and I'll have Smith's speedometers figured out completely.

Bob



On 5/16/2011 11:18 PM, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote:
> Bill,
> No magnetic component in the alloy. What forces the aluminium disc to turn is
> the so called electro-magnetical eddy current prinziple (sorry, hope this is
> the right expression in English language).
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Tue May 17 06:53:49 2011
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 08:53:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M colours
In-Reply-To: <AAA042F0FEF642EC8B0758C6160946AF@TM1>
References: <AAA042F0FEF642EC8B0758C6160946AF@TM1>
Message-ID: <E1A29E25-3E84-4B88-9C51-89353CC1EC1F@gmail.com>

I don't ever remember seeing a Healey Blue over black 100 M.

???????

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

On May 17, 2011, at 8:15 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote:

> According to AH 100 in detail, Bill Piggott:
>
> OEW over black 117
> Healey blue over black 108
> Reno Red over black 92
> Black over reno Red 71
> OEW 62
> Florida Green over white 55
> Black 42
> Healey Blue 39
> Reno Red 23
> Carmine Red 23
> Spurce Green 5
> Florida Green 3
> Whire over Reno red 1
> Black over pink 1
>
> TOTAL 640
>
>
> So, 42 original black cars....
>
> Out of the 640, 544 were delivered in US, so your chances are greater  :-)
>
> Best,
>
> Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue May 17 07:04:42 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 09:04:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 BN4 side screens
In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19F01@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19F01@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
Message-ID: <000d01cc1492$fcfe80a0$f6fb81e0$@net>

Paul, 

I just installed a new pair that my customer had brought me for his car,
which I believe came from AH Spares. I should point out that these represent
the later series of side screen introduced in April '58 with the
introduction of the BN6, so apply to all side screen models used from that
point on. Though details would differ they should fit the earlier BN4 models
with only minor modifications.
I am extremely impressed by the quality, details and fit. These were
completely preassembled except for the mounting brackets. The rubber seals
are already in place and needed only to be trimmed back slightly at the
ends. The Plexiglas was already installed into the felts in the tracks and
slide firmly but well. All mounting bracket hardware is included and seems
to be correct to original right down to the little chromed acorn nuts. The
anodized frames were smooth and bright with the correct finish.
The only faults I can find on these are the following, and this is being
picky:
1. some of the corner aluminum welds were slightly less smooth than original
2. of course the "Weathershields" lettering and patent numbers are missing
(to be expected on repro items)
3. the little rectangular grab pieces on the rear sliding panel are placed
in the middle of the inside surface, rather than being toward the lower rear
corner on the outside and the lower forward area on the inside.
4. the black rubber buffers were not included for the forward upper inside
corner of the frames. These are similar to the 3 buffers that fit along the
lower boot lip of the rear shroud. These are readily available and installed
with no problem.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Paul Leeks
Sent: 2011-05-17 4:00
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 BN4 side screens

Chaps

I am thinking of replacing my existing side screens (which are knackered
beyond repair) and was wondering whether anybody had any thoughts on the
quality of the reproductions offered by AH Spares and Ahead4healeys?

Many thanks

Paul Leeks

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr2411 036.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr2411 030.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr2411 031.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr2411 034.jpg]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue May 17 07:10:30 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 09:10:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 fuel pump mounting
In-Reply-To: <4F38F185B4934327AD9A01BC3F682ADA@na719y7xok2egp>
References: <20110517013428.A8RZ3.147450.root@cdptpa-web27-z02>
	<4F38F185B4934327AD9A01BC3F682ADA@na719y7xok2egp>
Message-ID: <001101cc1493$cc3dc510$64b94f30$@net>

Ken, 
The fuel pump on all Hundreds mounts directly to the bulkhead behind the
left seat, with no other brackets or padding of any kind. The bolt heads are
covered by the Armacord on the heel board, though not thoroughly glued in
the immediate area so access can be gained to the bolts when needed.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ken Beck
Sent: 2011-05-17 7:46
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 fuel pump mpunting

Does the fuel pump bolt directly through the bulkhead without and brackets 
or rubber.  It seems there shoould be something to absorbe vibration but the

pump holes line up with the holes in the bulkhead.

thanks
Ken Beck 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of feb082 012.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Easter 05 Plus Work 080.jpg]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue May 17 07:13:47 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 09:13:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M colours
In-Reply-To: <AAA042F0FEF642EC8B0758C6160946AF@TM1>
References: <mailman.304.1305629469.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<AAA042F0FEF642EC8B0758C6160946AF@TM1>
Message-ID: <001501cc1494$41bca860$c535f920$@net>

Geez, I have that book and didn't make note of this. Duhh!

Note however the second line should read:
Healey Blue over white

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Sent: 2011-05-17 8:15
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100M colours

According to AH 100 in detail, Bill Piggott:

OEW over black 117
Healey blue over black 108
Reno Red over black 92
Black over reno Red 71
OEW 62
Florida Green over white 55
Black 42
Healey Blue 39
Reno Red 23
Carmine Red 23
Spurce Green 5
Florida Green 3
Whire over Reno red 1
Black over pink 1

TOTAL 640


So, 42 original black cars....

Out of the 640, 544 were delivered in US, so your chances are greater  :-)

Best,

Tadek
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From Paull at glasgows.co.uk  Tue May 17 08:15:56 2011
From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 15:15:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 BN4 side screens
Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19F09@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>

Rich

Thanks ever so much for the positive feedback (and pics).  Yes, my car is an
early '57 BN4, but I think the late side screens are the only repros
available.  Incidentally, I currently have one early side screen and one
later screen; both of which are in a pretty sorry state, so I think it's time
to bite the bullet and get a new matching set!
I'll get in touch with AH Spares.
Many thanks
Paul


-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net]
Sent: 17 May 2011 14:05
To: Paul Leeks; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100/6 BN4 side screens

Paul,

I just installed a new pair that my customer had brought me for his car,
which I believe came from AH Spares. I should point out that these represent
the later series of side screen introduced in April '58 with the
introduction of the BN6, so apply to all side screen models used from that
point on. Though details would differ they should fit the earlier BN4 models
with only minor modifications.
I am extremely impressed by the quality, details and fit. These were
completely preassembled except for the mounting brackets. The rubber seals
are already in place and needed only to be trimmed back slightly at the
ends. The Plexiglas was already installed into the felts in the tracks and
slide firmly but well. All mounting bracket hardware is included and seems
to be correct to original right down to the little chromed acorn nuts. The
anodized frames were smooth and bright with the correct finish.
The only faults I can find on these are the following, and this is being
picky:
1. some of the corner aluminum welds were slightly less smooth than original
2. of course the "Weathershields" lettering and patent numbers are missing
(to be expected on repro items)
3. the little rectangular grab pieces on the rear sliding panel are placed
in the middle of the inside surface, rather than being toward the lower rear
corner on the outside and the lower forward area on the inside.
4. the black rubber buffers were not included for the forward upper inside
corner of the frames. These are similar to the 3 buffers that fit along the
lower boot lip of the rear shroud. These are readily available and installed
with no problem.

Rich

From mikljmal at gmail.com  Tue May 17 09:35:26 2011
From: mikljmal at gmail.com (Michael J Maloney)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 11:35:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
In-Reply-To: <738A0663AD614AD5B27F20CA19FF5CA6@OFFICE>
References: <4DBCF483.7060701@justbrits.com>
	<BANLkTi=Mg1v7JL9ibYgLOhvNjLDvRkzZsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<003801cc1480$53100530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<738A0663AD614AD5B27F20CA19FF5CA6@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=Zu-O3U_uQEJ7v+_TJA6=Xzp9wKA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi;
I took old & new tanks to the local welder. He cut the original fitting out
and braised it in place in the new tank.
Mike Maloney 66 HLY
HBJ8L 32990


On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 7:09 AM, Bob Yule <autofarm at cyg.net> wrote:

>   I think it should be explained that the fitting on the tank was correct
> for the original fuel line.  The car in question had a different set up for
> a fuel line and it was that which was at fault.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" <
> lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Bob Slater" <bj7healey at gmail.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 6:51 AM
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
>
>
>  Most of the distributors have had this problem corrected.  Where did this
>> come from and how
>> long ago.  For future reference if you don't mind.
>>
>> Have you contacted the seller to see if they have updated their supply and
>> can you exchange
>> to save you the hassle.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Slater" <bj7healey at gmail.com>
>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:37 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
>>
>>
>>  Help
>>>  Just purchased a new fuel tank for my BJ7 and the thread on the right
>>> angle fitting is not standard,  I do not know what it is > I have to go
>>> from
>>> this compression fitting thread to gas line hose to the fuel pump so need
>>> some kind of an adapter ???
>>>
>>>                                                     Bob 1963 BJ7
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mikljmal at gmail.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue May 17 09:39:57 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 17:39:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop alloy coating
Message-ID: <BANLkTiknVSWGtbKCwJJHk5sfxSxcq7HUhQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Does anybody know how the hardtop alloy frame was coated? It looks some king
of plating, chrome? It is not shining very bright.

Gergo

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 17 09:53:20 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 08:53:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop alloy coating
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTiknVSWGtbKCwJJHk5sfxSxcq7HUhQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTiknVSWGtbKCwJJHk5sfxSxcq7HUhQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <328DDED2-712D-46B1-AC1D-4BDF8F5DB620@sbcglobal.net>

The coating would be the same as the cockpit trim. It was a polished  
aluminium with clear anodizing which gave it the slight dull color.  
Today the best way to get the equivalent is to have the aluminium  
polished. Then have it clear powder coated.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 17, 2011, at 8:39 AM, Austin Healey wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Does anybody know how the hardtop alloy frame was coated? It looks  
> some king
> of plating, chrome? It is not shining very bright.
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Tue May 17 10:19:13 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 12:19:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop alloy coating
Message-ID: <F7EA99CD23C44CD48D548AAB9E546917@9535DEE118EC44B>

The original polish-then-clear anodizing finish is still done up here in
Toronto by Holly's Anodizing.
www.hollysanodizing.com
The Hollefriend family have been providing the correct finish for Healey trim
for over fifty years.

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Tue May 17 11:28:36 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 10:28:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Tow Hook
Message-ID: <38040.51852.qm@web120509.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Does anyone have a diagram, pictures of a front tow hook for a BN2

If so
please send it off list

Thanks
 
Jose

Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571)
321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota,
Colombia

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Tue May 17 11:33:34 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 10:33:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100M carbs spacers, heath shield, header clearance
Message-ID: <321943.44668.qm@web120502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have a few pictures and the process on how I made my heath shield from
dennis 
welch fit with the spacers, the header and the cold air box. I know
some people 
want that info. 
Due to the fact that I can not send pictures to
the list please contact me to 
send the pending info...

Thanks
 Josi Vicente
Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago
www.musme.net


Bogota, Colombia

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue May 17 11:53:29 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 10:53:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] chromer needed
Message-ID: <COL121-W44EF58BCDEB84AF03487DEA48C0@phx.gbl>

I have one part that needs to be re-chromed (top of door on a BJ8). the guy
who I use to use has passed and I am looking for someone in the business. As I
am at  Lake Tahoe, CA, I'd have to ship anyway so distance does not matter. I
am looking for quality and price (like we all aren't). Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Rich Kahn

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Tue May 17 11:55:57 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 19:55:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100M colours
In-Reply-To: <AAA042F0FEF642EC8B0758C6160946AF@TM1>
References: <mailman.304.1305629469.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<AAA042F0FEF642EC8B0758C6160946AF@TM1>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D8384D3BD@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Tadek,
Meanwhile 660 out of the 640 original factory 100Ms are back in Europe or at
least standing up like Phoenix out of the ashes. Medical science is far enough
to give many clones a new life.


Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Gesendet: Dienstag, 17. Mai 2011 14:15
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] 100M colours

According to AH 100 in detail, Bill Piggott:

OEW over black 117
Healey blue over black 108
Reno Red over black 92
Black over reno Red 71
OEW 62
Florida Green over white 55
Black 42
Healey Blue 39
Reno Red 23
Carmine Red 23
Spurce Green 5
Florida Green 3
Whire over Reno red 1
Black over pink 1

TOTAL 640


So, 42 original black cars....

Out of the 640, 544 were delivered in US, so your chances are greater  :-)

Best,

Tadek

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Tue May 17 11:57:46 2011
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 10:57:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Tow Hook
In-Reply-To: <38040.51852.qm@web120509.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <38040.51852.qm@web120509.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=RYEDwy+z8V_75+H8aiX+OXjeMAQ@mail.gmail.com>

IIRC i bought mine from one of the usual sources (10 years ago).
ron rader

On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 10:28 AM, Josi Vicente Vargas
<jvvmusme at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a diagram, pictures of a front tow hook for a BN2
>
> If so
> please send it off list
>
>  Jose

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Tue May 17 13:10:18 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 21:10:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100M colours
In-Reply-To: <E1A29E25-3E84-4B88-9C51-89353CC1EC1F@gmail.com>
References: <AAA042F0FEF642EC8B0758C6160946AF@TM1>
	<E1A29E25-3E84-4B88-9C51-89353CC1EC1F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim1wW+2Xsn9LunqgrWQ=KPmLXY5cg@mail.gmail.com>

Thats got to be Healey Blue over White

Derek

On Tue, May 17, 2011 at 2:53 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:

> I don't ever remember seeing a Healey Blue over black 100 M.
>
> ???????
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
> On May 17, 2011, at 8:15 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote:
>
> > According to AH 100 in detail, Bill Piggott:
> >
> > OEW over black 117
> > Healey blue over black 108
> > Reno Red over black 92
> > Black over reno Red 71
> > OEW 62
> > Florida Green over white 55
> > Black 42
> > Healey Blue 39
> > Reno Red 23
> > Carmine Red 23
> > Spurce Green 5
> > Florida Green 3
> > Whire over Reno red 1
> > Black over pink 1
> >
> > TOTAL 640
> >
> >
> > So, 42 original black cars....
> >
> > Out of the 640, 544 were delivered in US, so your chances are greater
>  :-)
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > Tadek
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Tue May 17 15:57:35 2011
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 17:57:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] chromer needed
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W44EF58BCDEB84AF03487DEA48C0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W44EF58BCDEB84AF03487DEA48C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w4828BCA590EFD59B680184C58C0@phx.gbl>

Rich - you may want to try:

Paul's Chrome Plating, Inc. 90 Pattison Street Evans City, PA 16033. Hours of
operation: 9am-5pm E.S.T. Mon-Thurs 9am-3pm E.S.T. Fri
paulschrome.com

You should definitely get the quality, and  the price generally comes with the
territory
jim




> From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 10:53:29 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] chromer needed
>
> I have one part that needs to be re-chromed (top of door on a BJ8). the guy
> who I use to use has passed and I am looking for someone in the business. As
I
> am at Lake Tahoe, CA, I'd have to ship anyway so distance does not matter.
I
> am looking for quality and price (like we all aren't). Any suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

From drmasucci at comcast.net  Tue May 17 17:14:24 2011
From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 19:14:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 14" Moto-Lita style wood steering wheel with thicker rim
References: <COL121-W44EF58BCDEB84AF03487DEA48C0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT133-w4828BCA590EFD59B680184C58C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <17234A44B41B46DD80692B5009A1E29A@lab092908>

Hi All,


For a number of years now I have had an older Moto-Lita 14" wood rimed 
steering wheel on my BJ8. I've always liked the look and I've never liked 
the thin rim. I know that Moss sells the "Tourist Trophy" wheels as well as 
Moto-Lita. They have one Tourist Trophy wheel with a thicker rim, but the 
diameter is 15"...I'd prefer 14".

So...does anyone know if anybody make a wood rimed wheel as described, with 
a thicker rim in a 14" diameter?

Thanks...Dave

BJ8

From gardner5 at comcast.net  Tue May 17 17:24:47 2011
From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 23:24:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 14" Moto-Lita style wood steering wheel with thicker
 rim
In-Reply-To: <17234A44B41B46DD80692B5009A1E29A@lab092908>
Message-ID: <343978575.551659.1305674687151.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Check out theB Moto-Lita website.



http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/





Joel

B 
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <drmasucci at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 4:14:24 PM
Subject: [Healeys] 14" Moto-Lita style wood steering wheel with thicker rim

Hi All,


For a number of years now I have had an older Moto-Lita 14" wood rimed
steering wheel on my BJ8. I've always liked the look and I've never liked
the thin rim. I know that Moss sells the "Tourist Trophy" wheels as well as
Moto-Lita. They have one Tourist Trophy wheel with a thicker rim, but the
diameter is 15"...I'd prefer 14".

So...does anyone know if anybody make a wood rimed wheel as described, with
a thicker rim in a 14" diameter?

Thanks...Dave

BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gardner5 at comcast.net

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue May 17 23:44:33 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 07:44:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop alloy coating
In-Reply-To: <4DD2A44D.9090702@chello.nl>
References: <BANLkTiknVSWGtbKCwJJHk5sfxSxcq7HUhQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DD2A44D.9090702@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTin5sXYJk6t4=e-3yh16aZKZQSWeyQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks!

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 17 23:01:28 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Tue, 17 May 2011 22:01:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
In-Reply-To: <738A0663AD614AD5B27F20CA19FF5CA6@OFFICE>
References: <4DBCF483.7060701@justbrits.com>
	<BANLkTi=Mg1v7JL9ibYgLOhvNjLDvRkzZsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<003801cc1480$53100530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<738A0663AD614AD5B27F20CA19FF5CA6@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110517215422.02066450@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Bob,

Just make up a new section of fuel line from the tank to the pump 
with new original fittings. Or, you should be able to take the 
fitting off of your existing line and put on the right fitting I 
would think (without seeing it). I just made a new line using 
stainless steel and original fittings which are soldered in place. 
The only difficult part is the 90 degree elbow which you can't get 
anymore. However there is a work around which you can get. British 
Car Specialists has all the parts.

I had a machine shop drill out the old steel pipe from an original 
elbow and used that.

John Spaur
San Jose, California

>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Slater" <bj7healey at gmail.com>
>>To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:37 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Healeys] ...Fuel Tank...Part # 1
>>
>>
>>>Help
>>>   Just purchased a new fuel tank for my BJ7 and the thread on the right
>>>angle fitting is not standard,  I do not know what it is > I have to go from
>>>this compression fitting thread to gas line hose to the fuel pump so need
>>>some kind of an adapter ???

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed May 18 01:12:48 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 09:12:48 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 14" Moto-Lita style wood steering wheel with thicker
 rim
In-Reply-To: <17234A44B41B46DD80692B5009A1E29A@lab092908>
References: <COL121-W44EF58BCDEB84AF03487DEA48C0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT133-w4828BCA590EFD59B680184C58C0@phx.gbl>
	<17234A44B41B46DD80692B5009A1E29A@lab092908>
Message-ID: <4DD37170.50902@chello.nl>

Check out Nardi classic and Mountney. Also Moto-Lita and Lecarra(=Moto 
Lita) make steering wheels with thicker rims. However I would seriously 
consider changing to a leather rim, especially if you prefer a small 
14"steering wheel. May not look as nice as wood but gives much more grip 
and is a lot more comfortable with sweaty hands.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of JH stuur.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From mdoust at abarth.ca  Wed May 18 06:57:06 2011
From: mdoust at abarth.ca (Mark)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 08:57:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <000f01cc155b$179a30d0$46ce9270$@ca>

Just testing I have some issues

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed May 18 07:49:53 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 23:49:53 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] test
In-Reply-To: <000f01cc155b$179a30d0$46ce9270$@ca>
References: <000f01cc155b$179a30d0$46ce9270$@ca>
Message-ID: <2D6A4EC4-3FB8-4A4B-935C-1B24D6B2ED96@gmail.com>

It's ok Mark.
Gerry Springer agreed with you.
He said you have no issues (well, no more than the rest of us blokes  
who spend too much time and money on Healeys) and he's returning the  
tapes.
No questions asked.
None answered.
All good.
;-)
Sent from my iPhone

On 18/05/2011, at 10:57 PM, "Mark" <mdoust at abarth.ca> wrote:

> Just testing I have some issues

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Wed May 18 08:06:21 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 10:06:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather - shoepolish?????????
In-Reply-To: <E1QM81J-0001ZZ-6V@gamma.look.ca>
References: <101821324.485566.1305579997297.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<6EC1944DC4BD47D2AA9D7EA0447F0A7C@Notebook>
	<E1QM81J-0001ZZ-6V@gamma.look.ca>
Message-ID: <BANLkTingJP0T64t4eodGRXxCRcYHbBOFAQ@mail.gmail.com>

My first Healey was a BN7, red with red interior. Before I bought it
someone had dyed (or redyed) the seats, obviously at home. For as long
as I had the car, every time you rode in it, the dye got onto your
clothes. Don't even remember if the seats were leather or Ambla, but
must have been Ambla as the car had steel wheels and no overdrive.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From healeydan at wowway.com  Wed May 18 11:10:48 2011
From: healeydan at wowway.com (Daniel White)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 13:10:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap follow up
In-Reply-To: <1989921841.1040421.1305738587820.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <2088461080.1040473.1305738648189.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>

Thanks to all those who gave their input re my search for the elusive spare tire hold down strap assembly. I found Peter Svilans' detailed description very interesting...good info that will go into the archives to help other "Healeyites". Jean Caron of Vintage Roadster Restoration in Winnipeg has come to my rescue and will be making the strap assembly for me. The strap assembly will be as the original at a very fair price...I highly recommend Jean's services. 
Regards, 
Dan 
'62 BN7 Mk II 

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 18 11:28:46 2011
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 12:28:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap follow up
In-Reply-To: <2088461080.1040473.1305738648189.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
References: <1989921841.1040421.1305738587820.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
	<2088461080.1040473.1305738648189.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <000801cc1581$24662460$6d326d20$@net>

Dan,
 
If Jean is offering a quantity discount, you can add me to the list of
interested people.
  Ron
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Daniel White
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 12:11 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap follow up
 
Thanks to all those who gave their input re my search for the elusive spare
tire hold down strap assembly. I found Peter Svilans' detailed description
very interesting...good info that will go into the archives to help other
"Healeyites". Jean Caron of Vintage Roadster Restoration in Winnipeg has
come to my rescue and will be making the strap assembly for me. The strap
assembly will be as the original at a very fair price...I highly recommend
Jean's services. 
Regards, 
Dan 
'62 BN7 Mk II 

From nelson_wd at msn.com  Wed May 18 13:38:00 2011
From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 14:38:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap follow up
In-Reply-To: <000801cc1581$24662460$6d326d20$@net>
References: <1989921841.1040421.1305738587820.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>,
	<2088461080.1040473.1305738648189.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>,
	<000801cc1581$24662460$6d326d20$@net>
Message-ID: <BLU161-w2064632E114EC8C6FFD5CE9C8F0@phx.gbl>

Add me to the hold down strap list also.  bill nelson 713-877-2792

> From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net
> To: healeydan at wowway.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 12:28:46 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap follow up
>
> Dan,
>
> If Jean is offering a quantity discount, you can add me to the list of
> interested people.
> Ron
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Daniel White
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 12:11 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire hold down strap follow up
>
> Thanks to all those who gave their input re my search for the elusive spare
> tire hold down strap assembly. I found Peter Svilans' detailed description
> very interesting...good info that will go into the archives to help other
> "Healeyites". Jean Caron of Vintage Roadster Restoration in Winnipeg has
> come to my rescue and will be making the strap assembly for me. The strap
> assembly will be as the original at a very fair price...I highly recommend
> Jean's services.
> Regards,
> Dan
> '62 BN7 Mk II
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nelson_wd at msn.com

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Wed May 18 14:17:18 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 16:17:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather- shoepolish ?
Message-ID: <D4F323E5CC474211ADBCA79048DF8911@9535DEE118EC44B>

Vinyl dye and leather dye are two completely different animals.  Vinyl dye is
made with a high solvent content that etches or soaks into a PVC-coated
surface.  It must be prepped with a strong solvent to help open up the pores
of the vinyl.

Leather dye is formulated to interact with the natural, organic, oily,
skin-like  components of the leather.  It can't be etched with strong solvents
like vinyl.  It can't be heat-welded like vinyl, and must be repaired with a
filler paste. Its pigments are a little bit more grainy like paint.

 Quite a number of well-known, proven successful leather dyeing kits are
available.  You have to follow their specific cleaning and prepping sequences
religiously.  The treatment should be followed by an aerosol sealer like
Fiebing's Leather Sheen, or Tandy Super Shene, as dyes can end up dry and
dusty if not done right.

Healeys up to and including the BJ 7 all had a cheap grade of surface-dyed
Connolly leather on seat faces in combination with vinyl on the rest of the
interior.  So one type of dye will not work properly on a whole interior.  Yes
it will stick to the incorrect type, like leather dye on vinyl, but this will
eventually come off.

Ambla was a quality PVC vinyl that was used only on the BJ 8.  Previous  6 cyl
models used ICI Vynide in different grades, and the early cars used the now
defunct Vynex vinyl by the Robert Pickles Co. with a similar leather-look
grain to the Vynide.

Leather is a wonderful material which ages gracefully, but the oils must be
replaced, as with Rejuvenating Oil or applications of Hide Food among other
such products.  Above all it must be kept clean, particularly in the seams.
Dirt will abrade leather and cotton stitching over time.

Vinyl only needs a wipe down with a damp cloth and a bit of mild soap, or
vinyl cleaning product.

Best regards
Peter

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed May 18 14:42:02 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 16:42:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather- shoepolish ?
In-Reply-To: <D4F323E5CC474211ADBCA79048DF8911@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <D4F323E5CC474211ADBCA79048DF8911@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <4DD42F1A.6050301@comcast.net>

Peter,
You have worked as a trimmer, so it is difficult for me to contradict 
you, but there is a product on the market that is used to dye leather or 
vinyl.  I'm working with it on a car right now and it seems to be doing 
a very good job.
Check out the Color Plus system: http://colorplus.com/
Charlie

On 5/18/2011 4:17 PM, Peter Svilans wrote:
> Vinyl dye and leather dye are two completely different animals.  Vinyl dye is
> made with a high solvent content that etches or soaks into a PVC-coated
> surface.  It must be prepped with a strong solvent to help open up the pores
> of the vinyl.
>
> Leather dye is formulated to interact with the natural, organic, oily,
> skin-like  components of the leather.  It can't be etched with strong solvents
> like vinyl.  It can't be heat-welded like vinyl, and must be repaired with a
> filler paste. Its pigments are a little bit more grainy like paint.
>
>   Quite a number of well-known, proven successful leather dyeing kits are
> available.  You have to follow their specific cleaning and prepping sequences
> religiously.  The treatment should be followed by an aerosol sealer like
> Fiebing's Leather Sheen, or Tandy Super Shene, as dyes can end up dry and
> dusty if not done right.
>
> Healeys up to and including the BJ 7 all had a cheap grade of surface-dyed
> Connolly leather on seat faces in combination with vinyl on the rest of the
> interior.  So one type of dye will not work properly on a whole interior.  Yes
> it will stick to the incorrect type, like leather dye on vinyl, but this will
> eventually come off.
>
> Ambla was a quality PVC vinyl that was used only on the BJ 8.  Previous  6 cyl
> models used ICI Vynide in different grades, and the early cars used the now
> defunct Vynex vinyl by the Robert Pickles Co. with a similar leather-look
> grain to the Vynide.
>
> Leather is a wonderful material which ages gracefully, but the oils must be
> replaced, as with Rejuvenating Oil or applications of Hide Food among other
> such products.  Above all it must be kept clean, particularly in the seams.
> Dirt will abrade leather and cotton stitching over time.
>
> Vinyl only needs a wipe down with a damp cloth and a bit of mild soap, or
> vinyl cleaning product.
>
> Best regards
> Peter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From healeydan at wowway.com  Wed May 18 14:51:14 2011
From: healeydan at wowway.com (Daniel White)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 16:51:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Source for spare tire hold down strap
In-Reply-To: <2015812840.1049163.1305751809286.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <1854568682.1049224.1305751874160.JavaMail.root@md06.wow.synacor.com>

Well, looks like I'm not the only one out there who needs one of these critters. Below is Jean's reply to me via the list on 5/15/11- 

Daniel: 
I have a BN6 that takes the same type of belt. Do you have the black roller buckle? If not, they may no longer be available but I can check here as I have a supplier who carries lots of various buckles. The straps are easy to make and I have the correct rivets for it too. I make my own for most of the cars I restore. I can make one for you within a couple of weeks. I will charge you whatever the material costs and one hour of labour @ $22.00, and will find that out first and if I can get the black buckle if you do not have one. If not I can get one powder coated in black. 

Jean Caron 
Vintage Roadster Restoration 
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 

I spoke with Jean yesterday (5/17/11) and he said he will check with his strap supplier and get back to me re delivery and payment particulars. You can reach him at 
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com. I think that one hour of labor @$22.00 plus material costs (don't know what that figure is yet) is a fair price to pay because I know it will be correct and I won't have to "reinvent the wheel" trying to make this myself. I'm not opposed to making things myself but in this case I'll write the check. 

Regards, 
Dan 

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Wed May 18 15:26:32 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 17:26:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather- shoepolish?
Message-ID: <5C87DB7AEB4C4658A8A551F48A759725@9535DEE118EC44B>

Charlie,

I haven't tried ColorPlus .  Let me know how it works long term.

Call me old-fashioned but I'm not overly thrilled with water-based stuff
generally.   If you look at their site, their emphasis is very much on the
leather end, with vinyl as sort of an aside ( SELL first and foremost ?)  As I
said, leather dye DOES stick to vinyl, but not long term.  It simply doesn't
etch into the surface.  I keep a "test piece" that I did some time ago, and
keep bending it when I pass by, and there's signs of it letting go in places.

The dyes I use are fairly new high-tech products from Germany, and there's no
question whatsoever of "one size fits all".  Ve heff ze technologie   :-)

Peter

From mbruce6 at bell.net  Wed May 18 15:42:03 2011
From: mbruce6 at bell.net (Mal Bruce)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 17:42:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] vent window rubbers
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP12DE1CB37B2FFE4BC4B8B4948F0@phx.gbl>

I have my two BJ7 vent windows on the bench and 2 new window rubbers. One
window has the vent window removed and the other is still in place.
Questions;
-do I need the vent windows out of the frame to get the new rubbers in
-what tool can I use to get them in. a screw driver looks likely to damage the
rubber and the tongue depressor has a thicker rounded end and hasn't worked
for me.
-any lubricant suggestions for the rubber?
I've talked to several club members who have successfully completed this task
but since it wasn't yesterday they can't remember how they did it!! Thanks

Mal Bruce

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May 18 15:56:35 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 05:56:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] vent window rubbers
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP12DE1CB37B2FFE4BC4B8B4948F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP12DE1CB37B2FFE4BC4B8B4948F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=QysXMvCHK_PPYRGfFiLq+SuKA4w@mail.gmail.com>

Mal -

You have to remove the glass from the outside frame.  This is done by
tapping off the metal donut on the vent glass shaft at the bottom -
it's a simple press fit.  You'll probably need an extra set of hands
to help you here.

You can use a medium sized slotted screw driver to work in the rubber
into the channel.  Just work it in bit by bit, you won't damage the
rubber if you are careful.

Alan

On 5/19/11, Mal Bruce <mbruce6 at bell.net> wrote:
> I have my two BJ7 vent windows on the bench and 2 new window rubbers. One
> window has the vent window removed and the other is still in place.
> Questions;
> -do I need the vent windows out of the frame to get the new rubbers in
> -what tool can I use to get them in. a screw driver looks likely to damage
> the
> rubber and the tongue depressor has a thicker rounded end and hasn't worked
> for me.
> -any lubricant suggestions for the rubber?
> I've talked to several club members who have successfully completed this
> task
> but since it wasn't yesterday they can't remember how they did it!! Thanks
>
> Mal Bruce
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From josephtroutwine at cox.net  Wed May 18 15:58:42 2011
From: josephtroutwine at cox.net (Joseph Troutwine)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 14:58:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather- shoepolish?
In-Reply-To: <5C87DB7AEB4C4658A8A551F48A759725@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <5C87DB7AEB4C4658A8A551F48A759725@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <4DD44112.9040701@cox.net>

I have used their products on several of my vehicles and can recommend 
them highly.  I put it on my wife's 911 C2 and it is wearing as well as 
the original dye (it is showing slight wear in the side bolster just 
like original).  Not only that, the interior is classic gray and their 
color was an exact match.  Nice people to deal with also.

Joe Troutwine
67 BJ8

On 5/18/2011 2:26 PM, Peter Svilans wrote:
> Charlie,
>
> I haven't tried ColorPlus .  Let me know how it works long term.
>
> Call me old-fashioned but I'm not overly thrilled with water-based stuff
> generally.   If you look at their site, their emphasis is very much on the
> leather end, with vinyl as sort of an aside ( SELL first and foremost ?)  As I
> said, leather dye DOES stick to vinyl, but not long term.  It simply doesn't
> etch into the surface.  I keep a "test piece" that I did some time ago, and
> keep bending it when I pass by, and there's signs of it letting go in places.
>
> The dyes I use are fairly new high-tech products from Germany, and there's no
> question whatsoever of "one size fits all".  Ve heff ze technologie   :-)
>
> Peter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josephtroutwine at cox.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed May 18 20:19:39 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 19:19:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SS Muffler for BJ8
Message-ID: <4DD47E3B.2040000@comcast.net>

I see Moss has a new SS muffler system for BJ8s; 'Tourist Trophy' brand.

Anyone tried them?  Price isn't too bad--for a complete system--under $900.

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 18 20:57:54 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 22:57:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] SS Muffler for BJ8
References: <4DD47E3B.2040000@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000e01cc15d0$8df2c420$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

The MGA club raffled one off and the winner did a write up in MGA magazine. 
The unit
got an over all thumbs up.   Good fit, sound, ease of install.   They did 
their home work on
these units.

Installation clamps and gaskets are NOT included even though some of the 
parts books say they are, its a miss print.   I have one sitting in my attic 
waiting for install on my  "A" and there were no accessories included and 
Moss said No.  Moss carries SS clamps now so you may want to go that route.

Its a good product from what I have read and seen.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 10:19 PM
Subject: [Healeys] SS Muffler for BJ8


>I see Moss has a new SS muffler system for BJ8s; 'Tourist Trophy' brand.
>
> Anyone tried them?  Price isn't too bad--for a complete system--under 
> $900.
>
> Bob
>
> -- 
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Thu May 19 05:17:38 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 13:17:38 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a John Barber on the list?
Message-ID: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have just received a very strange e-mail.

see below.

*Dear Customer,
   My name is John Barber..and this order is an individual order. and i like
to make a purchase of a ( Bonnet Straps ) and i will be more happy if you
can email me with the types and Prices that you have for sale as
well........Please let me know if you do accept credit card as a form of
payment, and that will be pick up at your location ....Hope to read back
from you soon..
Kind Regards
John Barber...*
**
Has some one stolen his email identity?

Has all the makings of a potential scam.

Derek

From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu May 19 05:42:39 2011
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 07:42:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a John Barber on the list?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CDE430FDD78B26-17CC-446E8@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>

I got one similar to this a couple weeks ago. I pushed the delete button.
Aloha
Perry






-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
To: Forum <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 19, 2011 7:17 am
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a John Barber on the list?


I have just received a very strange e-mail.
see below.
*Dear Customer,
  My name is John Barber..and this order is an individual order. and i like
o make a purchase of a ( Bonnet Straps ) and i will be more happy if you
an email me with the types and Prices that you have for sale as
ell........Please let me know if you do accept credit card as a form of
ayment, and that will be pick up at your location ....Hope to read back
rom you soon..
ind Regards
ohn Barber...*
*
as some one stolen his email identity?
Has all the makings of a potential scam.
Derek

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 19 08:02:20 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 09:02:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a John Barber on the list?
In-Reply-To: <8CDE430FDD78B26-17CC-446E8@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>
References: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CDE430FDD78B26-17CC-446E8@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DD522EC.9000702@justbrits.com>

<RANT, (informative -:) >
NOT pickin on YOU Perry, but you post just SCREAMS that
NONE of the List Members has either:

1]  KEPT the Welcome Message that WAS  rec'vd by EVERY Lister
when he/she 'signed up/subscribed'.

2]  NEVER availed them selves of ANY of the features that are
offered !!!

A VERY SIMPLE "Feature" available returns a List of ALL List
Members !!!!

Welcome Message CONTAINS :
<quote>

     who password [address=<address>]

See the non-hidden members of this mailing list. The roster is
 limited to list members only, and you must supply your membership 
password to retrieve it.
</quote>

So all one has to do IS:

Address message "TO:"   healeys-request at autox.team.net
with NO "Subject:"  [and that MEANS BLANK or ZERO letters]
type in the "BODY:"                                                        
who   (your ACTUAL List Password)

In a minutes, you WILL Receive a Mail FROM:
mailman-owner at autox.team.net
with the "SUBJECT" of:
"The results of your email commands"
and it will contain the Membership of The List by eMail Addy !!

</rant, (informative -:) >

Now BEFORE you get yer knickers in a UPROAR, PART 2 for
FURTHER assistance will follow this - message size restriction <G> !!

From barrie at look.ca  Thu May 19 08:09:38 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 10:09:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a John Barber on the list?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1QN40F-0003Pf-Ti@alpha.look.ca>

I get those very often and yes, they are scams.  They say they will 
send you a cheque for the item PLUS the amount for shipping.  They 
ask you to send the shipping money to their agent in NY, or similar, 
who will arrange all the shipping stuff.  You get check, you send 
money to shipping agent, cheque bounces after a week or 
two.  Shipping agent is temporary PO box - You are screwed 
!!    Nothing has been stolen but they have sucked your email address 
from Facebook,  Bleat, Slurp or some "social" network - or from 
elsewhere.  By the bye.  DO NOT reply as your email address is thus 
confirmed as good !!!!......................and you will get more 
similar stuff.




At 07:17 AM 5/19/2011, Derek Job wrote:
>I have just received a very strange e-mail.
>
>see below.
>
>*Dear Customer,
>    My name is John Barber..and this order is an individual order. and i like
>to make a purchase of a ( Bonnet Straps ) and i will be more happy if you
>can email me with the types and Prices that you have for sale as
>well........Please let me know if you do accept credit card as a form of
>payment, and that will be pick up at your location ....Hope to read back
>from you soon..
>Kind Regards
>John Barber...*
>**
>Has some one stolen his email identity?
>
>Has all the makings of a potential scam.
>
>Derek
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 19 08:17:46 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 09:17:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] <RANT, (informative -:) >     Part # 2 :
Message-ID: <4DD5268A.4040905@justbrits.com>

< RANT, (informative -:) >     Part # 2 :

What FOLLOWS here IS the "Opening info" FROM your "Welcome 
Message" with the VERY informative List Command !! :

< QUOTE >

 help
    Help for Spridgets mailing list:

This is email command help for version 2.1.11 of the "Mailman"
list manager.  The following describes commands you can send to get
information about and control your subscription to Mailman lists at
this site.  A command can be in the subject line or in the body of the
message.

Note that much of the following can also be accomplished via the World
Wide Web, at:

    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets

In particular, you can use the Web site to have your password sent to
your delivery address.
 
List specific commands (subscribe, who, etc) should be sent to the
*-request address for the particular list, e.g. for the 'mailman'
list, use 'mailman-request at ...'.
< /QUOTE >

_*Now since the odds ARE that next to NONE of you REMEMBER 
WHAT you List Password is:*_

    password [<oldpassword> <newpassword>] [address=<address>]
        Retrieve or change your password.  With no arguments, this returns
        your current password.  With arguments <oldpassword> and <newpassword>
        you can change your password.

        If you're posting from an address other than your membership address,
        specify your membership address with `address=<address>' (no brackets
        around the email address, and no quotes!).  Note that in this case the
        response is always sent to the subscribed address.

< RANT, (informative -:) >     Part # 2 :

Me

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 19 08:27:40 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 09:27:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a John Barber on the list?
In-Reply-To: <4DD522EC.9000702@justbrits.com>
References: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CDE430FDD78B26-17CC-446E8@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>
	<4DD522EC.9000702@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4DD528DC.3070901@justbrits.com>

< RANT, (informative -:) >     Part # 3 : 

And of course I would ALSO bet that NONE of you EVER "think
to look at and/or actually USE the SEVEN [ 7 ] LINES at the
bottom of EVERY List Post you Receive, huh ?!?!?!

< QUOTE >
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ - 
YOUR eMail addy AT justbrits.com
< / QUOTE >
< RANT, (informative -:) > Part # 3 :

Part # 4 to follow <G> !!!!

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu May 19 08:28:14 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 10:28:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather- shoepolish?
In-Reply-To: <4DD44112.9040701@cox.net>
References: <5C87DB7AEB4C4658A8A551F48A759725@9535DEE118EC44B>
	<4DD44112.9040701@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4DD528FE.30603@comcast.net>

Joe,
Did you use it for both leather and vinyl?
Charlie

On 5/18/2011 5:58 PM, Joseph Troutwine wrote:
> I have used their products on several of my vehicles and can recommend 
> them highly.  I put it on my wife's 911 C2 and it is wearing as well 
> as the original dye (it is showing slight wear in the side bolster 
> just like original).  Not only that, the interior is classic gray and 
> their color was an exact match.  Nice people to deal with also.
>
> Joe Troutwine
> 67 BJ8
>
> On 5/18/2011 2:26 PM, Peter Svilans wrote:
>> Charlie,
>>
>> I haven't tried ColorPlus .  Let me know how it works long term.
>>
>> Call me old-fashioned but I'm not overly thrilled with water-based stuff
>> generally.   If you look at their site, their emphasis is very much 
>> on the
>> leather end, with vinyl as sort of an aside ( SELL first and foremost 
>> ?)  As I
>> said, leather dye DOES stick to vinyl, but not long term.  It simply 
>> doesn't
>> etch into the surface.  I keep a "test piece" that I did some time 
>> ago, and
>> keep bending it when I pass by, and there's signs of it letting go in 
>> places.
>>
>> The dyes I use are fairly new high-tech products from Germany, and 
>> there's no
>> question whatsoever of "one size fits all".  Ve heff ze technologie   
>> :-)
>>
>> Peter
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josephtroutwine at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Thu May 19 08:40:53 2011
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 10:40:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a Shop at "Just Brits" on the list?
Message-ID: <4DD52BF5.6030109@verizon.net>

     I'm getting very strange e-mails.

     Have all the markings of a potential scam.


                                                                         
     CB

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 19 08:57:15 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 07:57:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a John Barber on the list?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTinifYJqQaGcGYjkg6oA557DEjNtwQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A07BCF60-26E1-4395-B1C0-5FE3F88DAEA3@sbcglobal.net>

I get these all the time for parts. ITS A SCAM



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 19, 2011, at 4:17 AM, Derek Job wrote:

> I have just received a very strange e-mail.
>
> see below.
>
> *Dear Customer,
>    My name is John Barber..and this order is an individual order.  
> and i like
> to make a purchase of a ( Bonnet Straps ) and i will be more happy  
> if you
> can email me with the types and Prices that you have for sale as
> well........Please let me know if you do accept credit card as a  
> form of
> payment, and that will be pick up at your location ....Hope to read  
> back
> from you soon..
> Kind Regards
> John Barber...*
> **
> Has some one stolen his email identity?
>
> Has all the makings of a potential scam.
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu May 19 08:58:51 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 10:58:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a Shop at "Just Brits" on the list?
In-Reply-To: <4DD52BF5.6030109@verizon.net>
References: <4DD52BF5.6030109@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <005501cc1635$4432a7f0$cc97f7d0$@net>

It's only Ed ranting. Simply delete.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charley Braum
Sent: 2011-05-19 10:41
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a Shop at "Just Brits" on the list?

     I'm getting very strange e-mails.

     Have all the markings of a potential scam.


                                                                         
     CB
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From rd_parker at juno.com  Thu May 19 09:19:39 2011
From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 08:19:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Is there a Shop at "Just Brits" on the list?
Message-ID: <20110519.081954.954.750491@mailpop03.vgs.untd.com>

Just block it, then delete it; it's that simple.
Bob.
BT7,'61. 
On Thu, 19 May 2011 10:58:51 -0400 "Rich Chrysler"
<richchrysler at quickclic.net> writes:
> It's only Ed ranting. Simply delete.
> 
> Rich
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Charley Braum
> Sent: 2011-05-19 10:41
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Is there a Shop at "Just Brits" on the list?
> 
>      I'm getting very strange e-mails.
> 
>      Have all the markings of a potential scam.
> 
> 
>                                                                      
>     
>      CB
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker at juno.com
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd535347b9734f813cst05vuc

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu May 19 09:33:47 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 08:33:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
Message-ID: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>

I have replaced the clear bulbs in my "flame throwers" with yellow fog lights
and I would like to dim them some. I think a rheostat would do it but I am
concerned with the heat generated in the rheostat unit and the wires (or am I
wrong about that). Is there some other safe way to put out less light?  (They
are on separate relays).
Thanks
Rich Kahn

From josephtroutwine at cox.net  Thu May 19 09:34:19 2011
From: josephtroutwine at cox.net (Joseph Troutwine)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 08:34:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather- shoepolish?
In-Reply-To: <4DD528FE.30603@comcast.net>
References: <5C87DB7AEB4C4658A8A551F48A759725@9535DEE118EC44B>
	<4DD44112.9040701@cox.net> <4DD528FE.30603@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DD5387B.7090206@cox.net>

Hi Charlie,

Yes I did use it on vinyl as well.  I found their Porsche Black (it is 
more semi-gloss than their regular black) was perfect for the 
convertible top on my BJ8.  I used a two inch foam brush to apply.  The 
top in question is the original from the factory.  It came out great and 
still looks good approx. nine years later.  Take care.

Joe

On 5/19/2011 7:28 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:
> Joe,
> Did you use it for both leather and vinyl?
> Charlie
>
> On 5/18/2011 5:58 PM, Joseph Troutwine wrote:
>> I have used their products on several of my vehicles and can recommend
>> them highly.  I put it on my wife's 911 C2 and it is wearing as well
>> as the original dye (it is showing slight wear in the side bolster
>> just like original).  Not only that, the interior is classic gray and
>> their color was an exact match.  Nice people to deal with also.
>>
>> Joe Troutwine
>> 67 BJ8
>>
>> On 5/18/2011 2:26 PM, Peter Svilans wrote:
>>> Charlie,
>>>
>>> I haven't tried ColorPlus .  Let me know how it works long term.
>>>
>>> Call me old-fashioned but I'm not overly thrilled with water-based stuff
>>> generally.   If you look at their site, their emphasis is very much
>>> on the
>>> leather end, with vinyl as sort of an aside ( SELL first and foremost
>>> ?)  As I
>>> said, leather dye DOES stick to vinyl, but not long term.  It simply
>>> doesn't
>>> etch into the surface.  I keep a "test piece" that I did some time
>>> ago, and
>>> keep bending it when I pass by, and there's signs of it letting go in
>>> places.
>>>
>>> The dyes I use are fairly new high-tech products from Germany, and
>>> there's no
>>> question whatsoever of "one size fits all".  Ve heff ze technologie
>>> :-)
>>>
>>> Peter
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josephtroutwine at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josephtroutwine at cox.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 19 10:11:14 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 11:11:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] worn leather- shoepolish?
In-Reply-To: <4DD5387B.7090206@cox.net>
References: <5C87DB7AEB4C4658A8A551F48A759725@9535DEE118EC44B>
	<4DD44112.9040701@cox.net> <4DD528FE.30603@comcast.net>
	<4DD5387B.7090206@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4DD54122.9060509@justbrits.com>

/u6DPgj: Permission denied

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 19 11:09:05 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 12:09:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re:  worn leather- shoepolish?]
Message-ID: <4DD54EB1.3070101@justbrits.com>

Rotten html <G> !!!

-------- Original Message --------

<< ...the convertible top on my BJ8. >>

Joe, was it an Everflex Hood or another product ??

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu May 19 11:44:16 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 19:44:16 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DD556F0.7030601@chello.nl>

Well, you cannot use a normal SMITHS rheostat, it just has not got the 
wattage and will burn out instantly, causing a fire hazard. Anyway you 
cannot dim halogen bulbs very well as they will wear out very quickly. 
Just adjust the hight so you will not blind oncoming traffic or yourself 
in thick fog.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From awill at ccs.ua.edu  Thu May 19 11:51:06 2011
From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 12:51:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 3000-bore size for main and rod bearing housing
Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4C5@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>

I'm having my engine line bored and the rods resized. Anyone on the list know
the bore size for the main bearing housing and the rod big-end size?
Thanks in advance.

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu May 19 12:04:14 2011
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 14:04:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <SNT143-w40A89870C6D098BC4ABC22D48E0@phx.gbl>

Anyone who is going to Import Carlisle this weekend, stop by the Austin Healey
Sports and Touring tent and say hi.  Sat at noon we are grilling burgers,
dogs, and eating until we can't eat anymore.  The cookout is for the AHSTC
members, but you could be included as well.  Either pay for the yearly
membership fee, or wait for leftover's :)  We also have cool regalia for sale.
I will also have some small parts for sale.
Shawn

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Thu May 19 12:23:32 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 13:23:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pistons for a 3000
Message-ID: <035e01cc1651$dd06e380$9714aa80$@qwest.net>

I am in need of a new set of .040 over pistons. I am trying to stay away
from County. Any suggestions?

 

Herb Miller

1962 BT7 

From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com  Thu May 19 12:26:21 2011
From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 11:26:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
Message-ID: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

just changed the clutch disk and now can't get the car to go in gear at all what to do

From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu May 19 12:30:35 2011
From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 18:30:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Pistons for a 3000
In-Reply-To: <035e01cc1651$dd06e380$9714aa80$@qwest.net>
References: <035e01cc1651$dd06e380$9714aa80$@qwest.net>
Message-ID: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633025A38BF@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>

JE forged.
Ken Freese

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Herbert Miller
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 11:24 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Pistons for a 3000

I am in need of a new set of .040 over pistons. I am trying to stay away
from County. Any suggestions?



Herb Miller

1962 BT7
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com

From josephtroutwine at cox.net  Thu May 19 12:48:43 2011
From: josephtroutwine at cox.net (Joseph Troutwine)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 11:48:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re:  worn leather- shoepolish?]
In-Reply-To: <4DD54EB1.3070101@justbrits.com>
References: <4DD54EB1.3070101@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4DD5660B.4010508@cox.net>

To the best of my knowledge the original tops were Everflex and my top 
is factory original (September 1967 production date BJ8).

Joe


> -------- Original Message --------
>
> << ...the convertible top on my BJ8. >>
>
> Joe, was it an Everflex Hood or another product ??
>
> Ed
> 1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
> 2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
>    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josephtroutwine at cox.net

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu May 19 12:52:01 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 20:52:01 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DD566D1.1050703@chello.nl>

DFid you fit the disc the right way around?
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu May 19 12:52:18 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 20:52:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DD566E2.9080907@chello.nl>

Did you fit the disc the right way around?
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu May 19 12:52:54 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 11:52:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=JjCzBdYHYjM5XSOUkBJ=Wxej1-g@mail.gmail.com>

Check movement/alignment of clutch fork. Mske sure its moving in and out?
Hows clutch pedal feel? Distance?
Did you use alignment tool to center clutch disk?
Do you enough of whatever type of oil in tranny?  Not sure what to use....go
to the archives please

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 19, 2011 11:31 AM, "Ralph Cap" <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> just changed the clutch disk and now can't get the car to go in gear at
all what to do
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu May 19 13:00:14 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 12:00:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <4DD566E2.9080907@chello.nl>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4DD566E2.9080907@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimDnQiAtcK+RNr10H7E2oR0_3Xqxg@mail.gmail.com>

Another good point.

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 19, 2011 11:59 AM, "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> Did you fit the disc the right way around?
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
of coudesluijs.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 19 13:07:52 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 12:07:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9A9D11AE-7A16-4CE5-B5BE-A881DEE6E8E8@sbcglobal.net>

You probably installed the disc backwards




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 19, 2011, at 11:26 AM, Ralph Cap wrote:

> just changed the clutch disk and now can't get the car to go in  
> gear at all what to do
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 19 13:15:08 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 14:15:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=JjCzBdYHYjM5XSOUkBJ=Wxej1-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTi=JjCzBdYHYjM5XSOUkBJ=Wxej1-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DD56C3C.8050108@justbrits.com>

Just a FYI & FWIW & YMMV, Ira, but.............

<< Did you use alignment tool to center clutch disk? >>

that shouldn't matter.  I haven't used one in decades <G> !! 
the "wrong" end of a Snap-On 3/8" Drive chrome ratchet wrench
does the 'job' just fine.

Add to the mix, that in same time-frame, when a disc has been
off-center, there is no way on God's Green earth the clutch
cover will pull down FLUSH & properly with the flywheel because
1st motion shaft 'hangs' on the disc.  Yep, BTDT - SB Chebbie <G>!

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
     Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

PS:  My vote is with Kees; disc backwards.

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 19 13:18:24 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 14:18:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re:  worn leather- shoepolish?]
In-Reply-To: <4DD5660B.4010508@cox.net>
References: <4DD54EB1.3070101@justbrits.com> <4DD5660B.4010508@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4DD56D00.7090403@justbrits.com>

Very kewl, Joe.............
 
<< ...my top is factory original >>

I would bet not many are which IS why I asked.
"Might" be a different outcome if it was "something" other ?!?

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From pieters at pt.lu  Thu May 19 13:20:28 2011
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 21:20:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DE765A97-8A05-472D-9B6E-5088EC66F95C@pt.lu>

I agree that you have probably put the disk in backwards. If you have only
changed the disk, remember a thicker disk will need more  travel to disengage.
If your throw out bush, throw out arm bearing, clevis pin etc are worn then
you may just not be able to get enough pressure on the pressure plate to make
it release the clutch disk,
cheers
Pieter
On 19/05/2011, at 8:26 PM, Ralph Cap wrote:

> just changed the clutch disk and now can't get the car to go in gear at all
what to do
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pieters at pt.lu

From kaynmike.bham at juno.com  Thu May 19 13:19:30 2011
From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 19:19:30 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
Message-ID: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>

I drive a BN2 and re "did" it a few years ago, including the interior. We (my
wife and I-and she's a seamstress of very high experience)had access to a set
of tattered backs and cusions and I purchased the foams from a..supplier. I
set to work in the remanufacture of any thing not directly related to sewing
while she dismanteled the old parts. We settled on a material that was spot-on
for color and, more amazingly, had the "hand" of "buttery" soft leather. They
turned out beautifully. So what's the question/problem, buddy? It doesn't
SMELL like leather. The smell of old woll carpets and brake fluid and aging
leather is a big part of how I bought this "car" in the first place,a first
one a very long time ago right? What I find is that NO leather smells like
that anymore as tanning chemicals and techneques have completely changed. Is
that true??    Mike Gougeon   '56 BN2

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu May 19 14:09:08 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 16:09:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
In-Reply-To: <4DD556F0.7030601@chello.nl>
References: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>
	<4DD556F0.7030601@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimTS_e0Z_yHUPDF+RwVV6TyX_uKdw@mail.gmail.com>

A DC chopper reduced the voltage without producing heat whereas a rheostat
merely provides resistance and builds up heat.  I had a rotary chopper
switch on my boat to dim overhead 12 volt lights in the main cabin.  However
these were incandescent bulbs and I do not know how or whether they would
work with halogen bulbs.

Best--Michael Oritt
--------------------------------
On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 1:44 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Well, you cannot use a normal SMITHS rheostat, it just has not got the
> wattage and will burn out instantly, causing a fire hazard. Anyway you
> cannot dim halogen bulbs very well as they will wear out very quickly.
> Just adjust the hight so you will not blind oncoming traffic or yourself
> in thick fog.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
> of coudesluijs.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu May 19 14:53:42 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 13:53:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimTS_e0Z_yHUPDF+RwVV6TyX_uKdw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>,
	<4DD556F0.7030601@chello.nl>,
	<BANLkTimTS_e0Z_yHUPDF+RwVV6TyX_uKdw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W230F0F4D553B4E1B0CA056A48E0@phx.gbl>

These are not halogens. Where can I get information on DC choppers? I've not
heard of them before.
Thanks
Rich Kahn

Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 16:09:08 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com
To: coudesluijs at chello.nl
CC: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net

A DC chopper reduced the voltage without producing heat whereas a rheostat
merely provides resistance and builds up heat.  I had a rotary chopper switch
on my boat to dim overhead 12 volt lights in the main cabin.  However these
were incandescent bulbs and I do not know how or whether they would work with
halogen bulbs.

Best--Michael Oritt--------------------------------
On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 1:44 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

Well, you cannot use a normal SMITHS rheostat, it just has not got the

wattage and will burn out instantly, causing a fire hazard. Anyway you

cannot dim halogen bulbs very well as they will wear out very quickly.

Just adjust the hight so you will not blind oncoming traffic or yourself

in thick fog.

Kees Oudesluijs



[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
coudesluijs.vcf]

_______________________________________________

Healeys at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu May 19 14:57:51 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 22:57:51 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W230F0F4D553B4E1B0CA056A48E0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>,
	<4DD556F0.7030601@chello.nl>,
	<BANLkTimTS_e0Z_yHUPDF+RwVV6TyX_uKdw@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL121-W230F0F4D553B4E1B0CA056A48E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DD5844F.8020304@chello.nl>

If they are not halogens why not fit a lower wattage bulb?
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu May 19 15:13:19 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 14:13:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinL7NcSPKtF4SwUckHQ7mPQEdz=tQ@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, most of the old chemicals used are now banned

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 19, 2011 12:29 PM, "kaynmike.bham at juno.com" <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
wrote:
> I drive a BN2 and re "did" it a few years ago, including the interior. We
(my
> wife and I-and she's a seamstress of very high experience)had access to a
set
> of tattered backs and cusions and I purchased the foams from a..supplier.
I
> set to work in the remanufacture of any thing not directly related to
sewing
> while she dismanteled the old parts. We settled on a material that was
spot-on
> for color and, more amazingly, had the "hand" of "buttery" soft leather.
They
> turned out beautifully. So what's the question/problem, buddy? It doesn't
> SMELL like leather. The smell of old woll carpets and brake fluid and
aging
> leather is a big part of how I bought this "car" in the first place,a
first
> one a very long time ago right? What I find is that NO leather smells like
> that anymore as tanning chemicals and techneques have completely changed.
Is
> that true?? Mike Gougeon '56 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 19 15:23:17 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 16:23:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W230F0F4D553B4E1B0CA056A48E0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>,
	<4DD556F0.7030601@chello.nl>,
	<BANLkTimTS_e0Z_yHUPDF+RwVV6TyX_uKdw@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL121-W230F0F4D553B4E1B0CA056A48E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DD58A45.20602@justbrits.com>

http://trade.indiamart.com/details.mp?offer=2371594013''

You would only need 30 or so of them, Rich <G>!!


YOUR prob is the amperage req'd.

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 19 15:45:22 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 14:45:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 3000-bore size for main and rod bearing housing
In-Reply-To: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4C5@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>
References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4C5@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>
Message-ID: <A4E5BD28-C164-4683-973A-2639A8F169AD@sbcglobal.net>

Main journals size   2.521 to 2.5215

Rod Journal size    2.114 to 2.1145




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 19, 2011, at 10:51 AM, Williams, Allen wrote:

> I'm having my engine line bored and the rods resized. Anyone on the  
> list know
> the bore size for the main bearing housing and the rod big-end size?
> Thanks in advance.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu May 19 16:21:11 2011
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 15:21:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>

And some of the old simple "chemicals" were dropped in favor of high  
tech solutions. Hide glue and other animal products like horse hair  
are a big part of the smell that was lost to plastic resin glues and  
such.

Wilko

>
>  What I find is that NO leather smells like
> that anymore as tanning chemicals and techneques have completely  
> changed. Is
> that true??    Mike Gougeon   '56 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Thu May 19 16:26:59 2011
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 18:26:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <9A9D11AE-7A16-4CE5-B5BE-A881DEE6E8E8@sbcglobal.net>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<9A9D11AE-7A16-4CE5-B5BE-A881DEE6E8E8@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=CkxfLV+tPr8NY1eMW+NS4ZLN2wQ@mail.gmail.com>

Before you go ripping the gearbox back out try this.
With the car on stands and in gear remove the slave cylinder. Find a tool
that will extend the clutch arm on the transmission at least 2 feet then use
that lever to move the arm to the limit of its travel.
With the arm in that position see if you can turn the driveshaft.
If you can the disc is not in backwards and the problem is with the
operating system not the clutch itself.

Michael Salter

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu May 19 16:57:08 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 15:57:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTik2B8hs4VffNphm8inRZn_6mFNUOA@mail.gmail.com>

Just use Lucas wiring.  They will be self dimming.

On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 8:33 AM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> I have replaced the clear bulbs in my "flame throwers" with yellow fog
> lights
> and I would like to dim them some. I think a rheostat would do it but I am
> concerned with the heat generated in the rheostat unit and the wires (or am
> I
> wrong about that). Is there some other safe way to put out less light?
>  (They
> are on separate relays).
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From akronzips at aol.com  Thu May 19 16:58:40 2011
From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 18:58:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Pistons for a 3000 reply
In-Reply-To: <8CDE48F01825174-1EB0-6A685@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
References: <035e01cc1651$dd06e380$9714aa80$@qwest.net>
	<8CDE48F01825174-1EB0-6A685@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CDE48F6D84E2D4-1EB0-6A7CE@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>

healeys at autox.team.net






-----Original Message-----
From: akronzips <akronzips at aol.com>
To: hgmiller3 <hgmiller3 at qwest.net>
Sent: Thu, May 19, 2011 6:55 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pistons for a 3000


I would highly recommend JE pistons out of L.A. Calif.
I have a 1962 BT7 and bored .60 over  with JE pistons,(Pro--) they are high
comression, have 3 rings, are lighter and very durable . (Con)-- They are
rather pricey!  I also had a Delta Cam (mild race cam) put in dyno'd the car
at 180 BHP!!  It has a 1962 Tri carb engine it.

Howard in Ohio
1961 BT7    In full restoration      akronzips at aol.com






-----Original Message-----
From: Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 19, 2011 2:30 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Pistons for a 3000


I am in need of a new set of .040 over pistons. I am trying to stay away
rom County. Any suggestions?

Herb Miller
1962 BT7
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Thu May 19 17:04:28 2011
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 16:04:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <805523.66495.qm@web121801.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Ralph, we had a customer a few years back who changed the clutch and in the
process he decided to clean the main shaft of the transmission and the pilot
bearing in the back of the crank shaft. As a result of this the shaft seized
in the pilot bearing because the bearing went dry. I understand this is an oil
bushing but they can dry out.  If you did this and did not regrease the pilot
bushing and main shaft, the main shaft may have seized.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Thu, 5/19/11, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Received: Thursday, May 19, 2011, 2:26 PM

just changed the clutch disk and now can't get the car to go in gear at all
what to do
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu May 19 17:29:37 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 18:29:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>
References: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
	<EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>
Message-ID: <2708CE46E6C24CC6BC0B968789AA8645@GregPC>

My last three cars have all been restored to one degree or another, at least 
to the degree that the original smell has left the interior completely, I 
loved that musty smell on my then not so old british cars I drove 30 years 
ago, 'specially on a cool damp fall day mixed with the smell of fallen 
leaves, best driving weather after the heat of summer is gone, note to self, 
next car should be a well preserved example with the right smell.

Of course the much of the musty interior smell probably came from damp 
carpets which meant trapped moisture which caused the rust that ate most of 
these cars up eventually.....

Greg Lemon 

From akronzips at aol.com  Thu May 19 17:43:38 2011
From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 19:43:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Pistons for a 3000 reply
In-Reply-To: <8CDE4915493E751-1EB0-6AD10@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
References: <035e01cc1651$dd06e380$9714aa80$@qwest.net>
	<8CDE48F01825174-1EB0-6A685@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CDE48F6D84E2D4-1EB0-6A7CE@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
	<4DD5A201.20705@justbrits.com>
	<8CDE4915493E751-1EB0-6AD10@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CDE495B5E60D4C-1194-43A@webmail-d053.sysops.aol.com>

I was just trying to help out a fellow Healey lover find a nice set of
piston's . JE will custom make the pistons to your specs. In about 1-2 weeks.

Didn't mean to step on anyones toes. If I'm out of line let me know.

 I also had the fly wheel lightned and balanced, electronic ignition (hidden)
and looks like stock distributor.. I had the rear end changed from a 391 to a
354 so I can cruise at 70-80 mph with no strain.

Making my dream car(.Rally Repica )
Howard in Ohio
1961 BT7 w/1962 Tri Carb engine







-----Original Message-----
From: Shop at " Just Brits " <shop at justbrits.com>
To: akronzips <akronzips at aol.com>
Sent: Thu, May 19, 2011 7:04 pm
Subject: Re: [...H...ealeys] Fwd: Pistons for a 3000 reply


<< healeys at autox.team.net >>

What are you trying to do, "akron" ??


Ed

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Thu May 19 17:44:13 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 19:44:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
Message-ID: <FDE6605805854829A74F8168D85C0C2B@9535DEE118EC44B>

Mike,

I love the British Car smell as well.   It takes me back to a misspent youth
opening the doors of old Austin sedans moldering in junkyards.

The distinctive smell is a combination of all the natural materials used, but
the leather smell itself can be isolated.  This company sells the "true"
leather fragrance in an air freshener, or in a bigger pad you put under your
seat, and in their leather conditioner which also has that elusive aroma.

Leather is a complicated subject and reading their website in detail is
worthwhile.

http://www.liquidleather.com/

Best
Peter

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu May 19 17:50:53 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 16:50:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
In-Reply-To: <805523.66495.qm@web121801.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <177143.2885.qm@web120107.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<805523.66495.qm@web121801.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00b801cc167f$96daef90$c490ceb0$@ca>

Martin makes a good point.

I had a similar problem with my pilot bearing only the cause was a bit
different.

To ensure that the input shaft lines up perfectly with the pilot bearing,
there are a couple of different size bolts that are machined perfectly and
only fit in very specific bolt holes... I did not know this and had changed
these bolts out.   As a result the alignment was not perfect and the input
shaft was dragging on the pilot bearing.

Therefore, even when I depressed the clutch, there was enough drag on the
pilot to keep the input shaft turning and the gears grinding. 

I pulled the transmission, used the correct alignment bolts and everthing
was fine thereafter.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Martin Jansen
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 4:04 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net; Ralph Cap
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans problem

Ralph, we had a customer a few years back who changed the clutch and in the
process he decided to clean the main shaft of the transmission and the pilot
bearing in the back of the crank shaft. As a result of this the shaft seized
in the pilot bearing because the bearing went dry. I understand this is an
oil
bushing but they can dry out.  If you did this and did not regrease the
pilot
bushing and main shaft, the main shaft may have seized.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Thu, 5/19/11, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] trans problem
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Received: Thursday, May 19, 2011, 2:26 PM

just changed the clutch disk and now can't get the car to go in gear at all
what to do
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu May 19 19:03:01 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 21:03:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Import Carlisle
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-w40A89870C6D098BC4ABC22D48E0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-w40A89870C6D098BC4ABC22D48E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikrLddgxo58TVuTzUmyPCUrSoAKmA@mail.gmail.com>

Shawn--

What would be the best day to come?
Would I be able to park my Healey where you guys are set up?

Best to Tammy--Michael Oritt
-------------------------------------------
On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 2:04 PM, S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Anyone who is going to Import Carlisle this weekend, stop by the Austin
> Healey
> Sports and Touring tent and say hi.  Sat at noon we are grilling burgers,
> dogs, and eating until we can't eat anymore.  The cookout is for the AHSTC
> members, but you could be included as well.  Either pay for the yearly
> membership fee, or wait for leftover's :)  We also have cool regalia for
> sale.
> I will also have some small parts for sale.
> Shawn
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
>
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
>
> 1964 MGB 40841
>
> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu May 19 19:16:05 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 21:16:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Import Carlisle
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikrLddgxo58TVuTzUmyPCUrSoAKmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT143-w40A89870C6D098BC4ABC22D48E0@phx.gbl>
	<BANLkTikrLddgxo58TVuTzUmyPCUrSoAKmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DD5C0D5.4010108@comcast.net>

Michael,
Saturday is the big day on the show field and the day when Shawn will be 
cooking on the grill.
Any Healey can park with the rest of them.  It would be good to see you 
again.
Also check us out in E75 of the flea market.  We will also have an entry 
in the french car section of the show field which are the featured mark 
this year.
Charlie

On 5/19/2011 9:03 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Shawn--
>
> What would be the best day to come?
> Would I be able to park my Healey where you guys are set up?
>
> Best to Tammy--Michael Oritt
> -------------------------------------------
> On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 2:04 PM, S and T Miller<stmiller96 at hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Anyone who is going to Import Carlisle this weekend, stop by the Austin
>> Healey
>> Sports and Touring tent and say hi.  Sat at noon we are grilling burgers,
>> dogs, and eating until we can't eat anymore.  The cookout is for the AHSTC
>> members, but you could be included as well.  Either pay for the yearly
>> membership fee, or wait for leftover's :)  We also have cool regalia for
>> sale.
>> I will also have some small parts for sale.
>> Shawn
>>
>> The Millers
>> "British Car Nuts"
>>
>> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
>>
>> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
>>
>> 1964 MGB 40841
>>
>> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
>>
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>> drive."
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Thu May 19 19:18:45 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 01:18:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 3000-bore size for main and rod bearing housing
In-Reply-To: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4C5@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>
References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4C5@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>
Message-ID: <col106-w30CE022DD0CA78A1983AB4C0710@phx.gbl>

If your machine shop doesn't know this, then you should go (I mean run)
somewhere else.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon




> From: awill at ccs.ua.edu
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 12:51:06 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey 3000-bore size for main and rod bearing housing
>
> I'm having my engine line bored and the rods resized. Anyone on the list
know
> the bore size for the main bearing housing and the rod big-end size?
> Thanks in advance.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From awill at ccs.ua.edu  Thu May 19 19:56:14 2011
From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 20:56:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 3000-bore size for main and rod bearing housing
In-Reply-To: <col106-w30CE022DD0CA78A1983AB4C0710@phx.gbl>
References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4C5@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>,
	<col106-w30CE022DD0CA78A1983AB4C0710@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4CB@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>

Thanks again to those who provided the numbers.
To others, I understand the concerns about the possible competence of the
machine shop. However, in my location few, if any, shops know what a Healey is
or was. Ford, Chevy, maybe Mopar, yes. Whatever books they had for 50 year old
cars are long gone. With that said, they do a good job if given the
specifications.

________________________________
From: richard mayor [mayorrichard at hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 8:18 PM
To: Williams, Allen; healeys
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey 3000-bore size for main and rod bearing housing

If your machine shop doesn't know this, then you should go (I mean run)
somewhere else.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon

From joe at farley.net  Thu May 19 20:50:50 2011
From: joe at farley.net (Joe Farley)
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 19:50:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary lights
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W35E1D2967CF94575ECD212A48E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DD5D70A.2090103@farley.net>

Wire them in Series instead of in parallel ...
Joe


On 5/19/2011 8:33 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> I have replaced the clear bulbs in my "flame throwers" with yellow fog lights
> and I would like to dim them some. I think a rheostat would do it but I am
> concerned with the heat generated in the rheostat unit and the wires (or am I
> wrong about that). Is there some other safe way to put out less light?  (They
> are on separate relays).
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Fri May 20 00:07:54 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 08:07:54 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <FDE6605805854829A74F8168D85C0C2B@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <FDE6605805854829A74F8168D85C0C2B@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimskT+hEg-PNZjzrQWTHTfUiX5LHw@mail.gmail.com>

Peter

No commercial interest but I would agree with you that its a great product.
I used it in my old car and I'll be using it in my new one as well - which
if all goes to plan - I will be collecting in England next week and driving
it back to Belgium. Should be interesting!

cheers

Derek



On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 1:44 AM, Peter Svilans <peter.svilans at rogers.com>wrote:

> Mike,
>
> I love the British Car smell as well.   It takes me back to a misspent
> youth
> opening the doors of old Austin sedans moldering in junkyards.
>
> The distinctive smell is a combination of all the natural materials used,
> but
> the leather smell itself can be isolated.  This company sells the "true"
> leather fragrance in an air freshener, or in a bigger pad you put under
> your
> seat, and in their leather conditioner which also has that elusive aroma.
>
> Leather is a complicated subject and reading their website in detail is
> worthwhile.
>
> http://www.liquidleather.com/
>
> Best
> Peter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Fri May 20 00:14:34 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 08:14:34 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <2708CE46E6C24CC6BC0B968789AA8645@GregPC>
References: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
	<EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>
	<2708CE46E6C24CC6BC0B968789AA8645@GregPC>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimgMQQi9j-6XYEQbpE9BOUGOJswiw@mail.gmail.com>

The quality of leathers used today is  inferior to to those used in the past
- mainly for cost reasons. Compare the leather in a Mk II Jag with the
'leather' in modern cars. No comparison. Hides nowadays are sliced so they
can get about four or five slices from one hide,  they then have to press
the 'grain' back in by machine.

Derek



On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 1:29 AM, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> My last three cars have all been restored to one degree or another, at
> least to the degree that the original smell has left the interior
> completely, I loved that musty smell on my then not so old british cars I
> drove 30 years ago, 'specially on a cool damp fall day mixed with the smell
> of fallen leaves, best driving weather after the heat of summer is gone,
> note to self, next car should be a well preserved example with the right
> smell.
>
> Of course the much of the musty interior smell probably came from damp
> carpets which meant trapped moisture which caused the rust that ate most of
> these cars up eventually.....
>
> Greg Lemon _______________________________________________
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From raymead at comcast.net  Fri May 20 09:00:29 2011
From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 15:00:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] CARLISLE - MUD???????????????
Message-ID: <1315685878.713172.1305903629392.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

anyone at Carlisle with a computer/blackberry??B  how is the MUD????



tks, ray

From barrie at look.ca  Fri May 20 09:29:39 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 11:29:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>
References: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
	<EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>
Message-ID: <E1QNRtW-0008J8-Pg@zeta.look.ca>

You do remember that leather used to be tanned using human urine - do 
you not?  Does a great job too !


At 06:21 PM 5/19/2011, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote:
>And some of the old simple "chemicals" were dropped in favor of high
>tech solutions. Hide glue and other animal products like horse hair
>are a big part of the smell that was lost to plastic resin glues and
>such.
>
>Wilko
>
>>
>>  What I find is that NO leather smells like
>>that anymore as tanning chemicals and techneques have completely
>>changed. Is
>>that true??    Mike Gougeon   '56 BN2
>>_______________________________________________
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Fri May 20 10:02:30 2011
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 16:02:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <E1QNRtW-0008J8-Pg@zeta.look.ca>
References: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>,
	<EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>,
	<E1QNRtW-0008J8-Pg@zeta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W4548230B376362AAC12086B5710@phx.gbl>

I too like the smell of old British leather - it sure doesn't smell like my
pee though.
Rick
> You do remember that leather used to be tanned using human urine - do
> you not?  Does a great job too !

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri May 20 10:13:05 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 12:13:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <E1QNRtW-0008J8-Pg@zeta.look.ca>
References: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
	<EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>
	<E1QNRtW-0008J8-Pg@zeta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimx_x+D3_ZdgpZ2MyDV9tRbwyzDRQ@mail.gmail.com>

Here's a short squib on yet another disgusting way to tan leather.

Best--Michael Oritt

*Brain Tanning*

This is a very primitive method of tanning leather. Oddly enough each animal
has just enough brains to tan its own hide. Brain tanning produces a
beautiful buckskin and it does require a bit of work to produce it.

After removing the hide from the beastie, stretch the hide out by laying it
on the ground flesh-side up. Punch wooden stakes at intervals around the
edges and drive them into the ground. You want the stakes close to the edge
but not so close that the skin tears. It will all depend on the animal and
the thickness of the hide. Dont stretch the hide beyond its original size.
You dont want to stretch the hide, just keep it from shrinking.

Now you need to flesh it. This will be easier if you are careful while
skinning the animal and not let a lot of meat or fat on the hide. You can
use a stone, a bone flesher or the dull knife from above. Once again, be
careful to not cut or tear the skin.

Scrap the skin to get every bit of meat or fat off, this includes the tiny
veins that cling to the surface of the skin. Any fat or meat left on the
hide will cause you misery later. Now that the fleshing is done its time to
decide if you are going to make buckskin or a fur.

On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 11:29 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:

> You do remember that leather used to be tanned using human urine - do you
> not?  Does a great job too !
>
>
> At 06:21 PM 5/19/2011, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote:
>
>> And some of the old simple "chemicals" were dropped in favor of high
>> tech solutions. Hide glue and other animal products like horse hair
>> are a big part of the smell that was lost to plastic resin glues and
>> such.
>>
>> Wilko
>>
>>
>>>  What I find is that NO leather smells like
>>> that anymore as tanning chemicals and techneques have completely
>>> changed. Is
>>> that true??    Mike Gougeon   '56 BN2
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca
>>
>
> Regards
>
> Barrie
> barrie at look.ca
> 705-721-9060 _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Fri May 20 10:41:19 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 18:41:19 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge top 2.
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=WF4JO71v+00s-6ynicn1nie91=g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I managed to get hold of a longbridge hoof frame, and a set of slides which
are attached to the chassis.
I think there must be something between. Does any of You have a closeup
picture of the hood frame connection at the slides?

Gergo

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri May 20 10:57:38 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 12:57:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge top 2.
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=WF4JO71v+00s-6ynicn1nie91=g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=WF4JO71v+00s-6ynicn1nie91=g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000b01cc170f$069d9280$13d8b780$@net>

Gergo, How's this?

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Austin Healey
Sent: 2011-05-20 12:41
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge top 2.

Hi,

I managed to get hold of a longbridge hoof frame, and a set of slides which
are attached to the chassis.
I think there must be something between. Does any of You have a closeup
picture of the hood frame connection at the slides?

Gergo
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

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From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sat May 21 07:59:47 2011
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry rowe)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 06:59:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] leathers
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimgMQQi9j-6XYEQbpE9BOUGOJswiw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20110519.121930.27582.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
	<EB190602-5670-4129-9AD8-07A6676A7D67@cox.net>
	<2708CE46E6C24CC6BC0B968789AA8645@GregPC>
	<BANLkTimgMQQi9j-6XYEQbpE9BOUGOJswiw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901cc17bf$58d15d10$0a741730$@net.au>

And don't forget the vinyl paint sprayed on to give the 'dyed' colour which
tends to lift in wear spots especially on corners and edges. How do I know?
- been burnt thrice (2xBMW who don't want to know about it and once on
Healey 3000 which we rectified later). If the surface is showing a grained
appearance, don't go there!

John Rowe  Qld Australia
BN1   BT7

The quality of leathers used today is  inferior to to those used in the past
- mainly for cost reasons. Compare the leather in a Mk II Jag with the
'leather' in modern cars. No comparison. Hides nowadays are sliced so they
can get about four or five slices from one hide,  they then have to press
the 'grain' back in by machine.

Derek

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Fri May 20 16:09:28 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 18:09:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Leathers
Message-ID: <BANLkTinZw-yCTRTg+i2jVfMKWD1zn0pH_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Went to a furniture presentation several months ago where they were
talking about leather covered furniture. In addition to splitting
hides thinner they do this other thing. It is called bonded leather.
It is made by grinding the scraps, hides, whatever cannot be used
otherwise, to a powder and then bonding this dust together to make the
"bonded leather." Manfacturers can press it as thin as the want, and
the as mentioned earlier, apply a finish. It will last a few years,
but wear spots do wear the "finish" off. This all came about b/c a
company in Hickory, NC will, for a "few" dollars more, custom make
leather whatever you want. If I remember correctly (risky at best)
they had pics of a custom tooled leather Cadillac interior they had
done. Impressive if you like that sort of thing. NFI. Could probably
dig up their name if anyone would like.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri May 20 18:35:56 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 17:35:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cluth M/C
Message-ID: <4DD708EC.90906@comcast.net>

A while back I asked the List for advice on some greasy crud seeping out around my clutch M/C boot.  Thought I'd report 
the results.

I pulled the M/C and determined the crud was just some grease that had been applied by the manufacturer to lubricate 
where the pushrod pushes against the piston (at least one person suggested this possibility).  The inside of the 
cylinder showed some wear and the pushrod holes were a bit elongated so I decided to replace it.  The new M/C has some 
grease in the same place.

You old pros know this, but the M/C came with instructions to bench bleed, so I did.   This made the bleeding process 
much easier and more effective.

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From austinbj8 at yahoo.com  Fri May 20 18:40:51 2011
From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 17:40:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Tools for sale
Message-ID: <151179.81234.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello listers,  I have the following items for sale: Flaring tool set ( new)
$40.00,  Snap On Compression Tester Set  (new), part # MT308L  $100.00, 
Bearing Driver Set (new) $45.00, Snap On piston Ring Compressor (new) $12.00
and Snap On Tubing Bender, part # TBS 200A, (slightly used) $28.00.  Note the
prices on these items include the shipping to an address in the USA.
I also have a Snap On Puller set board and various pullers and bearing
splitters for sale, the cost to buy the items would be apox. $1000.00 (photo
available).  Will sell the board and pullers for $350.00, price includes
shipping to an address in the USA.
TIA,  John Gillespie

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri May 20 19:07:32 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 21:07:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] CARLISLE - MUD???????????????
In-Reply-To: <1315685878.713172.1305903629392.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1315685878.713172.1305903629392.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DD71054.3090200@comcast.net>

Ray,
There's some mud, but it isn't bad at all.  The show field should be in 
good shape tomorrow with the sun being out for a while today to dry it 
off and not an outrageous amount of traffic.
Charlie

On 5/20/2011 11:00 AM, raymead at comcast.net wrote:
> anyone at Carlisle with a computer/blackberry??B  how is the MUD????
>
>
>
> tks, ray
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

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From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Fri May 20 19:21:05 2011
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 21:21:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fog/Driving lLights
Message-ID: <BANLkTimyExLLgp63AKWEk+jcgRNOe9NEnQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have been traveling and haven't been able to comopetely follow the thread
so I hope these comments are OK.

The difference between a fog and driving light is found in the lens, and
perhaps the reflector. Fog lights can be white or yellow. Driving light
lenses are clear and fog light llenses have striations to spread the bean in
a low, wide pattern. The lenses on the Cibie fog lights on my MGBGT are
wihite but have a lens that spreads the light rather than focuses it ahead.
The drving lights are monted on the grill guard, the fog lights are mounted
below the bumper to get a lwide low pattern to try and illuminate the road
beneath the forg.

I must appologiise. This is being tped in a hotel loby that is so dim I can
barely see the keyboard, witout a spell checker, and with a monitor that is
displaying the text in 7pt type.

Jack

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Fri May 20 23:29:23 2011
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 05:29:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Spare tire strap assembly for BN6/BN7  -
Message-ID: <SNT124-W47718AFA24CFF94CC429B1D1700@phx.gbl>

Listers:

Before this gets too carried away here, bear in mind that I am doing a few of
these more as a favour than to get into this full throttle. The strap I am
using as a pattern was purchased some 23 years ago from Martin J. MacGregor
for my own BN6 as my assembly was missing altogether. Knowing the level of
accuracy Martin dedicated to everything he makes led me to believe that his
was correct. Having said that I have not seen anywhere in any of the previous
or current Concours Guide a definite set of dimension with regards to this
strap other than to say they are made of black leather, with a black roller
buckle, held by black rivets.
There is a firm here in Winnipeg where I can obtain pretty well any type of
buckle and as of two days ago, when I was last there, there were no black
buckles available, and furthermore, none are exactly like the one that Martin
supplied me with for my car. I went through their supply to find the one
closest to it and purchased five of them along with the necessary leather. I
have prepped these for powder coating, to be done in black as I have done in
the past for some of the restorations and they have held up well using that
method.
All five assemblies are now spoken for and do not plan to make anymore until I
have completed one restoration project I have right now and some work on my
own BN6. I realize there is not a huge demand for this either and that is
likely why these are not readily available right now.
This list is great and will continue to use it on a regular basis, great folks
here who have a wealth of valuable knowledge for our cars.

Regards,

Jean Caron
Vintage Roadster Restoration
Winnipeg, Canada

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat May 21 01:00:13 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 09:00:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fog/Driving lLights
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimyExLLgp63AKWEk+jcgRNOe9NEnQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimyExLLgp63AKWEk+jcgRNOe9NEnQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DD762FD.4060501@chello.nl>

To thicken the fog, fog and spot lights can both be yellow and clear 
(white if you like). If you have clear lenses you can also have yellow 
bulbs as was mandatory in France not even to long ago. They were of a 
lower wattage I believe. Lucas spot lights can usually be converted to 
fog lights and the other way around by changing the lenses. As Jack 
pointed out the spot lights have mainly plain unprofiled lenses with a 
parabolic reflector to direct the light straight ahead while fog lights 
have a profiled/ribbed lens to direct the light at a wide angle just in 
front of the car with a sharp, low cut off as not to direct light 
upwards because that will blind you in thick fog.

Modern (fog, spot, head) lights have all clear lenses as all focussing 
is done by the computer designed reflector.
Discharge lights are a different breed altogether.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat May 21 04:47:09 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 20:47:09 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Where to Next?
Message-ID: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

Many would remember that a few weeks back the engine of the BN3/1 started
making expensive noises.

 

Well, while the engine is still in the car, all ancillaries have been
removed from it. All sounds straightforward, but it helps if you can imagine
the engine bay of a 100 with a C-series shoehorned into it. Like to remove
the carburettors the heater Kopex tubing had to be removed and for that to
happen the grille had to be taken out. That's okay, as the radiator can only
come out via the grille opening.

 

Anyway the engine is bare within the car. The rocker cover is off, as are
the rockers. This afternoon I was about to undo the cylinder head nuts, but
ran into a problem.

 

The rear of the engine and cylinder head is about half an inch from the
firewall which is already concave. That means that the rear head stud is
directly under the bonnet catch (remember it's a 100 body with a forward
opening bonnet). To get at the bonnet catch fasteners you have to go into
the cockpit, but they are unreachable unless the heater is removed. Even if
I could undo the cylinder head nuts I wonder if I could get the head past
the bonnet catch and the overdrive throttle switch which is right next to
it.

 

I should say that the engine will NOT fit through the 100 shroud opening
which means that the shroud has to be removed first. Surely the main reason
why the production six-cylinder cars have a larger bonnet opening.

 

I still don't know what caused the loud noises, but it looks as if I have to
start on the bodywork next. I suspect that I won't know what's wrong until
the engine is out.

 

However I thought I should say hello to everyone as someone else might have
a bright idea. Yes 30 years ago I did fit the engine before the body.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn 

Sydney, Australia

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Sat May 21 05:41:36 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 06:41:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Where to Next?
In-Reply-To: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikN4Jik-aPmTMjgFTTRhGYTx2muEg@mail.gmail.com>

patrick,
so much for having one of the esoteric models.........
cheers,
jerry

On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 5:47 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Many would remember that a few weeks back the engine of the BN3/1 started
> making expensive noises.
>
>
>
> Well, while the engine is still in the car, all ancillaries have been
> removed from it. All sounds straightforward, but it helps if you can
> imagine
> the engine bay of a 100 with a C-series shoehorned into it. Like to remove
> the carburettors the heater Kopex tubing had to be removed and for that to
> happen the grille had to be taken out. That's okay, as the radiator can
> only
> come out via the grille opening.
>
>
>
> Anyway the engine is bare within the car. The rocker cover is off, as are
> the rockers. This afternoon I was about to undo the cylinder head nuts, but
> ran into a problem.
>
>
>
> The rear of the engine and cylinder head is about half an inch from the
> firewall which is already concave. That means that the rear head stud is
> directly under the bonnet catch (remember it's a 100 body with a forward
> opening bonnet). To get at the bonnet catch fasteners you have to go into
> the cockpit, but they are unreachable unless the heater is removed. Even if
> I could undo the cylinder head nuts I wonder if I could get the head past
> the bonnet catch and the overdrive throttle switch which is right next to
> it.
>
>
>
> I should say that the engine will NOT fit through the 100 shroud opening
> which means that the shroud has to be removed first. Surely the main reason
> why the production six-cylinder cars have a larger bonnet opening.
>
>
>
> I still don't know what caused the loud noises, but it looks as if I have
> to
> start on the bodywork next. I suspect that I won't know what's wrong until
> the engine is out.
>
>
>
> However I thought I should say hello to everyone as someone else might have
> a bright idea. Yes 30 years ago I did fit the engine before the body.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From edic at tampabay.rr.com  Sat May 21 08:31:46 2011
From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 10:31:46 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
Message-ID: <4DD7CCD2.00000C.05536@MEL-HP>

Folks,

I have called the people who advertise the Healey 5 Speed in the Healey
Marque and asked them to email me some information with prices on their
product. I have called them twice over the last two weeks and have not
received an acknowledgement of my call. Does anyone know if these people are
still in business?

My overdrive is probably in need of repair and hopefully it is not too
expensive, but if it is, I need to explore the alternative of a Toyota 5
Speed that will make life easier. I would appreciate hearing from people who
have done this, and give me some things to look out for, and what the final
cost is likely to be, ball park. You can contact me off list so as to not
upset the people who get annoyed at deleting these messages.

Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/39749
Land O Lakes, Fl

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of grad.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of stampa_girl_line_en.gif]

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sat May 21 08:39:34 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 09:39:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
In-Reply-To: <4DD7CCD2.00000C.05536@MEL-HP>
References: <4DD7CCD2.00000C.05536@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <C32A8834-6909-4074-B901-45F678BF2C29@yahoo.com>

A friend on mine installed the rans from smitty: great. They take time to
answer, do not receive credit card but they are serious and professional. They
just live in the 1960's as when the car were new and have no hurry in live...
The only downside to the conversion s that you end up with a center
shift....that is why I have not done it in my bn2. My friend is a bn7 so I
have no experience on bj8
Jose



Sent from my iPad


On May 21, 2011, at 9:31 AM, "edic at tampabay.rr.com" <edic at tampabay.rr.com>
wrote:

> Folks,
>
> I have called the people who advertise the Healey 5 Speed in the Healey
> Marque and asked them to email me some information with prices on their
> product. I have called them twice over the last two weeks and have not
> received an acknowledgement of my call. Does anyone know if these people
are
> still in business?
>
> My overdrive is probably in need of repair and hopefully it is not too
> expensive, but if it is, I need to explore the alternative of a Toyota 5
> Speed that will make life easier. I would appreciate hearing from people
who
> have done this, and give me some things to look out for, and what the final
> cost is likely to be, ball park. You can contact me off list so as to not
> upset the people who get annoyed at deleting these messages.
>
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/39749
> Land O Lakes, Fl
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
grad.gif]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
image.gif]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
stampa_girl_line_en.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Sat May 21 09:06:40 2011
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 08:06:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
In-Reply-To: <C32A8834-6909-4074-B901-45F678BF2C29@yahoo.com>
References: <4DD7CCD2.00000C.05536@MEL-HP>
	<C32A8834-6909-4074-B901-45F678BF2C29@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <59D1C4C2EFEC41CDBCFA51AAB82A2DCB@JerryPC>

I have to agree that response is not quick but this is a side job.  It 
actually pays to call in early evening or on Sat to get him.  He is a very 
nice guy and takes care of everything.  It does work on a center shift, you 
may have to buy the shifter tower that moves the shifter forward like I did. 
It all depends on which transmission you buy.   One of the people in our 
club bought the whole setup including transmission from Pete.

Jerry

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jose Vicente Vargas
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 7:39 AM
To: edic at tampabay.rr.com
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed

A friend on mine installed the rans from smitty: great. They take time to
answer, do not receive credit card but they are serious and professional. 
They
just live in the 1960's as when the car were new and have no hurry in 
live...
The only downside to the conversion s that you end up with a center
shift....that is why I have not done it in my bn2. My friend is a bn7 so I
have no experience on bj8
Jose



Sent from my iPad


On May 21, 2011, at 9:31 AM, "edic at tampabay.rr.com" <edic at tampabay.rr.com>
wrote:

> Folks,
>
> I have called the people who advertise the Healey 5 Speed in the Healey
> Marque and asked them to email me some information with prices on their
> product. I have called them twice over the last two weeks and have not
> received an acknowledgement of my call. Does anyone know if these people
are
> still in business?
>
> My overdrive is probably in need of repair and hopefully it is not too
> expensive, but if it is, I need to explore the alternative of a Toyota 5
> Speed that will make life easier. I would appreciate hearing from people
who
> have done this, and give me some things to look out for, and what the 
> final
> cost is likely to be, ball park. You can contact me off list so as to not
> upset the people who get annoyed at deleting these messages.
>
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/39749
> Land O Lakes, Fl
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
grad.gif]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
image.gif]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
stampa_girl_line_en.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net

From bighealey at charter.net  Sat May 21 09:16:51 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 08:16:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
In-Reply-To: <4DD7CCD2.00000C.05536@MEL-HP>
References: <4DD7CCD2.00000C.05536@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <000c01cc17ca$1d0d5f30$57281d90$@charter.net>

http://healey.org/content/view/331/168/


Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of edic at tampabay.rr.com
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 7:32 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed

Folks,

I have called the people who advertise the Healey 5 Speed in the Healey
Marque and asked them to email me some information with prices on their
product. I have called them twice over the last two weeks and have not
received an acknowledgement of my call. Does anyone know if these people are
still in business?

My overdrive is probably in need of repair and hopefully it is not too
expensive, but if it is, I need to explore the alternative of a Toyota 5
Speed that will make life easier. I would appreciate hearing from people who
have done this, and give me some things to look out for, and what the final
cost is likely to be, ball park. You can contact me off list so as to not
upset the people who get annoyed at deleting these messages.

Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/39749
Land O Lakes, Fl

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
grad.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
image.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
stampa_girl_line_en.gif] _______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat May 21 10:48:10 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 12:48:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
Message-ID: <20110521.094847.20190.644724@mailpop10.dca.untd.com>

I guess I just can't get enough abuse, so here I go again. WHY?? I 
have driven Healeys for many years and never felt a need to 
"upgrade" the transmission. Yes, there is the awkward gap between 
2nd and 3rd, but it is all about driving the car!! So many of you 
are micro faulting the Healey to the point that you spend more time 
worrying about what it doesn't have, than enjoying what it does!! 
Enjoy the Healey for what it is, not what you want it to be. As I 
have said before, and will say again, you want air conditioning, a 5 
(or 6) speed all synchro tranny, ipod & stereo and whatever, buy a 
freakin Miata!! Use the money you waste on "upgrades" to buy another 
Healey. IMHO.

Doug
> 
> > I have to agree that response is not quick but this is a side job. 
>  
> > It 
> > actually pays to call in early evening or on Sat to get him.  He 
> is 
> > a very 
> > nice guy and takes care of everything.  It does work on a center 
> > shift, you 
> > may have to buy the shifter tower that moves the shifter forward 
> > like I did. 
> > It all depends on which transmission you buy.   One of the people 
> in 
> > our 
> > club bought the whole setup including transmission from Pete.
> > 
> > Jerry
> > 
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd7ed27d7c935c34efst04duc

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sat May 21 11:07:51 2011
From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 10:07:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
In-Reply-To: <20110521.094847.20190.644724@mailpop10.dca.untd.com>
References: <20110521.094847.20190.644724@mailpop10.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4D9D208C-B945-48F1-9241-16D832A8F9A0@shaw.ca>

I have to agree !!  why not install a V8 while you are at it ..... oh  
I forgot thats a no no !!!
but its fine to change the transmission ???
keep it original then its a Healey .... or build a nasty boy.
cheers
Kenny


On 21-May-11, at 9:48 AM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote:

> I guess I just can't get enough abuse, so here I go again. WHY?? I
> have driven Healeys for many years and never felt a need to
> "upgrade" the transmission. Yes, there is the awkward gap between
> 2nd and 3rd, but it is all about driving the car!! So many of you
> are micro faulting the Healey to the point that you spend more time
> worrying about what it doesn't have, than enjoying what it does!!
> Enjoy the Healey for what it is, not what you want it to be. As I
> have said before, and will say again, you want air conditioning, a 5
> (or 6) speed all synchro tranny, ipod & stereo and whatever, buy a
> freakin Miata!! Use the money you waste on "upgrades" to buy another
> Healey. IMHO.
>
> Doug
>>
>>> I have to agree that response is not quick but this is a side job.
>>
>>> It
>>> actually pays to call in early evening or on Sat to get him.  He
>> is
>>> a very
>>> nice guy and takes care of everything.  It does work on a center
>>> shift, you
>>> may have to buy the shifter tower that moves the shifter forward
>>> like I did.
>>> It all depends on which transmission you buy.   One of the people
>> in
>>> our
>>> club bought the whole setup including transmission from Pete.
>>>
>>> Jerry
>>>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
> Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd7ed27d7c935c34efst04duc
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> geatros at shaw.ca

From pieters at pt.lu  Sat May 21 11:08:46 2011
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 19:08:46 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Where to Next?
In-Reply-To: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <DEB3D99A-C3EE-4AE4-9698-75640C28D582@pt.lu>

Patrick,
 if the engine is "bare", can you unbolt the engine mounts from the side of
the block and drop the engine out through the chassis rails?
cheers
Pieter
On 21/05/2011, at 12:47 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Many would remember that a few weeks back the engine of the BN3/1 started
> making expensive noises.
>
>
>
> Well, while the engine is still in the car, all ancillaries have been
> removed from it. All sounds straightforward, but it helps if you can
imagine
> the engine bay of a 100 with a C-series shoehorned into it. Like to remove
> the carburettors the heater Kopex tubing had to be removed and for that to
> happen the grille had to be taken out. That's okay, as the radiator can
only
> come out via the grille opening.
>
>
>
> Anyway the engine is bare within the car. The rocker cover is off, as are
> the rockers. This afternoon I was about to undo the cylinder head nuts, but
> ran into a problem.
>
>
>
> The rear of the engine and cylinder head is about half an inch from the
> firewall which is already concave. That means that the rear head stud is
> directly under the bonnet catch (remember it's a 100 body with a forward
> opening bonnet). To get at the bonnet catch fasteners you have to go into
> the cockpit, but they are unreachable unless the heater is removed. Even if
> I could undo the cylinder head nuts I wonder if I could get the head past
> the bonnet catch and the overdrive throttle switch which is right next to
> it.
>
>
>
> I should say that the engine will NOT fit through the 100 shroud opening
> which means that the shroud has to be removed first. Surely the main reason
> why the production six-cylinder cars have a larger bonnet opening.
>
>
>
> I still don't know what caused the loud noises, but it looks as if I have
to
> start on the bodywork next. I suspect that I won't know what's wrong until
> the engine is out.
>
>
>
> However I thought I should say hello to everyone as someone else might have
> a bright idea. Yes 30 years ago I did fit the engine before the body.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pieters at pt.lu

From autofarm at cyg.net  Sat May 21 11:39:16 2011
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 13:39:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
References: <20110521.094847.20190.644724@mailpop10.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <782DF4E6EA524A959C85B07C4F68537F@OFFICE>

    Hear!! Hear!!
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dwflagg at juno.com>
To: <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
Cc: <Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed


>I guess I just can't get enough abuse, so here I go again. WHY?? I
> have driven Healeys for many years and never felt a need to
> "upgrade" the transmission. Yes, there is the awkward gap between
> 2nd and 3rd, but it is all about driving the car!! So many of you
> are micro faulting the Healey to the point that you spend more time
> worrying about what it doesn't have, than enjoying what it does!!
> Enjoy the Healey for what it is, not what you want it to be. As I
> have said before, and will say again, you want air conditioning, a 5
> (or 6) speed all synchro tranny, ipod & stereo and whatever, buy a
> freakin Miata!! Use the money you waste on "upgrades" to buy another
> Healey. IMHO.
>
> Doug
>>
>> > I have to agree that response is not quick but this is a side job.
>>
>> > It
>> > actually pays to call in early evening or on Sat to get him.  He
>> is
>> > a very
>> > nice guy and takes care of everything.  It does work on a center
>> > shift, you
>> > may have to buy the shifter tower that moves the shifter forward
>> > like I did.
>> > It all depends on which transmission you buy.   One of the people
>> in
>> > our
>> > club bought the whole setup including transmission from Pete.
>> >
>> > Jerry
>> >
> ____________________________________________________________
> Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
> Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd7ed27d7c935c34efst04duc
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net 

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat May 21 12:47:46 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 11:47:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
In-Reply-To: <4D9D208C-B945-48F1-9241-16D832A8F9A0@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <500711.10669.qm@web161207.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

You rang?

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 5/21/11, Geatros <geatros at shaw.ca> wrote:

From: Geatros <geatros at shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
To: dwflagg at juno.com
Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Date: Saturday, May 21, 2011, 1:07 PM

I have to agree !!  why not install a V8 while you are at it ..... oh I forgot
thats a no no !!!
but its fine to change the transmission ???
keep it original then its a Healey .... or build a nasty boy.
cheers
Kenny

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Sat May 21 14:42:07 2011
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 16:42:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] '48 Healey Woodie
Message-ID: <58888031-FDC3-4067-A024-2772CF09940F@gmail.com>

Check this out!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Healey-Woodie-/160591131241?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&
hash=item2563fa3269#ht_500wt_1019

Ebay Item #:   160591131241

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Sat May 21 15:13:11 2011
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 14:13:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] '48 Healey Woodie
In-Reply-To: <58888031-FDC3-4067-A024-2772CF09940F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <716302.72668.qm@web130201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Absolutly gorgeous! The swageline/spear theme on the door is certainly a
harbinger of things to come.
Best
JK

--- On Sat, 5/21/11, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:

> Check this out!
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Healey-Woodie-/160591131241?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&
> hash=item2563fa3269#ht_500wt_1019
>
> Ebay Item #:   160591131241
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat May 21 15:43:39 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 07:43:39 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] '48 Healey Woodie
In-Reply-To: <58888031-FDC3-4067-A024-2772CF09940F@gmail.com>
References: <58888031-FDC3-4067-A024-2772CF09940F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A8F2CEA015F40999245A3AC8B863625@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Yes it is lovely. The car has been under restoration at Classic Restorations
in the UK over the last few years. They have developed quite a reputation
for restoring real Healeys.

Their website is:

http://www.classicrestorations.org.uk/index.php

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randy Hicks
Sent: Sunday, 22 May 2011 6:42 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] '48 Healey Woodie

Check this out!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Healey-Woodie-/160591131241?pt=US_Cars_Trucks
&
hash=item2563fa3269#ht_500wt_1019

Ebay Item #:   160591131241

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat May 21 15:48:27 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 07:48:27 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Where to Next?
In-Reply-To: <DEB3D99A-C3EE-4AE4-9698-75640C28D582@pt.lu>
References: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<DEB3D99A-C3EE-4AE4-9698-75640C28D582@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <6D80A8BF2E2947A5AA35B24CEB17A0E1@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Yes that occurred to me yesterday, but the engine is actually over the top
of the front crossmember plus there is not enough headroom where it is.

Many thanks

Patrick Quinn

-----Original Message-----
From: Pieter and Linda [mailto:pieters at pt.lu] 
Sent: Sunday, 22 May 2011 3:09 AM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Where to Next?

Patrick,
 if the engine is "bare", can you unbolt the engine mounts from the side of
the block and drop the engine out through the chassis rails?
cheers
Pieter
On 21/05/2011, at 12:47 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:

> G'day
> 
> 
> 
> Many would remember that a few weeks back the engine of the BN3/1 started
> making expensive noises.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, while the engine is still in the car, all ancillaries have been
> removed from it. All sounds straightforward, but it helps if you can
imagine
> the engine bay of a 100 with a C-series shoehorned into it. Like to remove
> the carburettors the heater Kopex tubing had to be removed and for that to
> happen the grille had to be taken out. That's okay, as the radiator can
only
> come out via the grille opening.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway the engine is bare within the car. The rocker cover is off, as are
> the rockers. This afternoon I was about to undo the cylinder head nuts,
but
> ran into a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> The rear of the engine and cylinder head is about half an inch from the
> firewall which is already concave. That means that the rear head stud is
> directly under the bonnet catch (remember it's a 100 body with a forward
> opening bonnet). To get at the bonnet catch fasteners you have to go into
> the cockpit, but they are unreachable unless the heater is removed. Even
if
> I could undo the cylinder head nuts I wonder if I could get the head past
> the bonnet catch and the overdrive throttle switch which is right next to
> it.
> 
> 
> 
> I should say that the engine will NOT fit through the 100 shroud opening
> which means that the shroud has to be removed first. Surely the main
reason
> why the production six-cylinder cars have a larger bonnet opening.
> 
> 
> 
> I still don't know what caused the loud noises, but it looks as if I have
to
> start on the bodywork next. I suspect that I won't know what's wrong until
> the engine is out.
> 
> 
> 
> However I thought I should say hello to everyone as someone else might
have
> a bright idea. Yes 30 years ago I did fit the engine before the body.
> 
> 
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> 
> 
> Patrick Quinn 
> 
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pieters at pt.lu

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sat May 21 16:12:29 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 00:12:29 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Where to Next?
In-Reply-To: <6D80A8BF2E2947A5AA35B24CEB17A0E1@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<DEB3D99A-C3EE-4AE4-9698-75640C28D582@pt.lu>
	<6D80A8BF2E2947A5AA35B24CEB17A0E1@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <4DD838CD.8010908@bredband.net>

Hi
Is it possible to separate the gearbox from the engine. Then you could 
push it backwards and drop it down behind the front cross member.

Per (on the other side of the world)

Patrick and Caroline Quinn skrev 2011-05-21 23:48:
> G'day
>
> Yes that occurred to me yesterday, but the engine is actually over the top
> of the front crossmember plus there is not enough headroom where it is.

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat May 21 19:10:07 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 20:10:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] '48 Healey Woodie
In-Reply-To: <58888031-FDC3-4067-A024-2772CF09940F@gmail.com>
References: <58888031-FDC3-4067-A024-2772CF09940F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DD8626F.2010700@justbrits.com>

*WOW !!!!!

Or just to make it easy <G> !!:
 
http://tinyurl.com/3weryy8

*

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat May 21 19:17:27 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 18:17:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Where to Next?
In-Reply-To: <4DD838CD.8010908@bredband.net>
References: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<DEB3D99A-C3EE-4AE4-9698-75640C28D582@pt.lu>
	<6D80A8BF2E2947A5AA35B24CEB17A0E1@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<4DD838CD.8010908@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinqX1wMLXLswP5q+PyNmM1WyXEocA@mail.gmail.com>

NO

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 21, 2011 3:14 PM, "Per Schoerner" <healeyguy at bredband.net> wrote:
> Hi
> Is it possible to separate the gearbox from the engine. Then you could
> push it backwards and drop it down behind the front cross member.
>
> Per (on the other side of the world)
>
> Patrick and Caroline Quinn skrev 2011-05-21 23:48:
>> G'day
>>
>> Yes that occurred to me yesterday, but the engine is actually over the
top
>> of the front crossmember plus there is not enough headroom where it is.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sat May 21 21:15:41 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:15:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Where to Next?
In-Reply-To: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <A2A872DA-6EB0-41D0-9FFA-A711DA11B779@gmail.com>

Hey Patrick,
Based on what you've just explained, can you get the gearbox and  
overdrive out through the passengers compartment, or is that  
impossible too?
I remember Strop telling me once that there was very little clearance  
around the bellhousing.
I'm only asking because if you can't, and you basically need to remove  
all the bodywork forward of the windscreen to remove the engine, then  
i'd be rebuilding everything - engine, gearbox, clutch, o/d.
You won't want to do this again.... And it has been 30 years since the  
last time it was done.
Sincerely.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 21/05/2011, at 8:47 PM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au 
 > wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Many would remember that a few weeks back the engine of the BN3/1  
> started
> making expensive noises.
>
>
>
> Well, while the engine is still in the car, all ancillaries have been
> removed from it. All sounds straightforward, but it helps if you can  
> imagine
> the engine bay of a 100 with a C-series shoehorned into it. Like to  
> remove
> the carburettors the heater Kopex tubing had to be removed and for  
> that to
> happen the grille had to be taken out. That's okay, as the radiator  
> can only
> come out via the grille opening.
>
>
>
> Anyway the engine is bare within the car. The rocker cover is off,  
> as are
> the rockers. This afternoon I was about to undo the cylinder head  
> nuts, but
> ran into a problem.
>
>
>
> The rear of the engine and cylinder head is about half an inch from  
> the
> firewall which is already concave. That means that the rear head  
> stud is
> directly under the bonnet catch (remember it's a 100 body with a  
> forward
> opening bonnet). To get at the bonnet catch fasteners you have to go  
> into
> the cockpit, but they are unreachable unless the heater is removed.  
> Even if
> I could undo the cylinder head nuts I wonder if I could get the head  
> past
> the bonnet catch and the overdrive throttle switch which is right  
> next to
> it.
>
>
>
> I should say that the engine will NOT fit through the 100 shroud  
> opening
> which means that the shroud has to be removed first. Surely the main  
> reason
> why the production six-cylinder cars have a larger bonnet opening.
>
>
>
> I still don't know what caused the loud noises, but it looks as if I  
> have to
> start on the bodywork next. I suspect that I won't know what's wrong  
> until
> the engine is out.
>
>
>
> However I thought I should say hello to everyone as someone else  
> might have
> a bright idea. Yes 30 years ago I did fit the engine before the body.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sat May 21 22:20:36 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 23:20:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
Message-ID: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>

After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and 40-50
At 4000 rpm.
Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil
filter (moss # 235-880)
After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at 4000
rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss #
235-830).
Any ideas,

Jose




Sent from my iPad

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May 22 01:56:54 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 09:56:54 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DD8C1C6.9020006@chello.nl>

The main cause is probably the earlier FRAM oil filter being of poor 
quality and having a rather high resistance.
That said, 90 psi is very high so is this K&N filter OK and did you try 
another?
However I do not think it will cause any harm. For normal use ca. 
50-60psi at 2500rpm and a hot engine should be fine in most UK engines, 
in race applications it could be higher.
Also, check the accuracy of the oil gauge!
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Sun May 22 05:15:06 2011
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:15:06 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator drain valve
Message-ID: <BANLkTinZXaoTvs38OzxnW=J=kQRUCwe=kg@mail.gmail.com>

Friends,

I have an original brass radiator drain valve (BMC part no. 2 H 10) for
sale. Before putting it on e-bay: is there anyone interested to make me an
offer on this item? The valve is in excellent condition, postage to the USA
will be approx.USD 25 (sorry for that, our Postal Service has one tariff for
anything up to 4 lbs!).

Please react off-list.

Regards,
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 22 07:39:01 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:39:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Jose, 

Regardless of the filter, the oil pressure relief valve should limit the pressure to a maximum of (typically) 60-70psi. 

30psi @ 1,000rpm is great, but 90 @ 4,000 seems too high; the obvious culprit would be the valve, but I can't explain how just changing the oil and filter would instigate the problem (unless, maybe, you went from 20W break-in oil to straight 60W). Definitely check the valve for burrs, etc.; maybe try a different spring. 

Sounds like your rebuild was good--most issues are with too low pressure--but too high puts undue stress on the cam/distributor gear and seals. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and 40-50 
At 4000 rpm. 
Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil 
filter (moss # 235-880) 
After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at 4000 
rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss # 
235-830). 
Any ideas, 

Jose 

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun May 22 08:03:45 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 09:03:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B4AA8593-7CED-4891-A166-B9B9AE378010@yahoo.com>

I have dennis welch oil pump
Using 20-50w oil
The holes of the adapter are correctly aligned
 This situation afyer the oil and filter change



Sent from my iPad


On May 22, 2011, at 8:39 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jose,
>
> Regardless of the filter, the oil pressure relief valve should limit the
pressure to a maximum of (typically) 60-70psi.
>
> 30psi @ 1,000rpm is great, but 90 @ 4,000 seems too high; the obvious
culprit would be the valve, but I can't explain how just changing the oil and
filter would instigate the problem (unless, maybe, you went from 20W break-in
oil to straight 60W).  Definitely check the valve for burrs, etc.; maybe try a
different spring.
>
> Sounds like your rebuild was good--most issues are with too low
pressure--but too high puts undue stress on the cam/distributor gear and
seals.
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and
40-50
> At 4000 rpm.
> Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil
> filter (moss # 235-880)
> After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at
4000
> rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss
#
> 235-830).
> Any ideas,
>
> Jose

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sun May 22 08:36:29 2011
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 10:36:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Where to Next?
In-Reply-To: <4DD838CD.8010908@bredband.net>
References: <3956AAC267EB4A9498301F21C89C06A7@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<DEB3D99A-C3EE-4AE4-9698-75640C28D582@pt.lu>
	<6D80A8BF2E2947A5AA35B24CEB17A0E1@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<4DD838CD.8010908@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim69WtfUXfKZwS_oJ2htGPG4fu0qA@mail.gmail.com>

To get the block to go between the engine rails the back plate would
definitely have to be removed as well. Probably possible if the gearbox can
be removed, but you would need to have the car on a hoist or very high
stands so that you can pull the engine out from under the car once it has
been dropped to the floor, and the lifting point which is supporting the
engine would have to be moveable to allow one to move the load rearward once
the gearbox, back plate and engine mounts had been removed, and then
lowered.
This all done and the necessary repairs being completed the whole thing has
to be reinstalled, "assembly is the reversal of disassembly".
Although removal is without disassembling the body is probably possible I'm
inclined to think that Partick's body disassembly plan is going to be the
best option.

Michael Salter

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Sun May 22 08:49:59 2011
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 10:49:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <B4AA8593-7CED-4891-A166-B9B9AE378010@yahoo.com>
References: <727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<B4AA8593-7CED-4891-A166-B9B9AE378010@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CDE6A6A809F3E3-1768-82DF7@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>

Jose,
Try using the old filter (if you still have it) and see if the problem
corrects it's self. If the problem is still there then your problem is some
were else.

Larry







-----Original Message-----
From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 22, 2011 10:04 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure


I have dennis welch oil pump
sing 20-50w oil
he holes of the adapter are correctly aligned
This situation afyer the oil and filter change

Sent from my iPad

n May 22, 2011, at 8:39 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> Jose,

 Regardless of the filter, the oil pressure relief valve should limit the
ressure to a maximum of (typically) 60-70psi.

 30psi @ 1,000rpm is great, but 90 @ 4,000 seems too high; the obvious
ulprit would be the valve, but I can't explain how just changing the oil and
ilter would instigate the problem (unless, maybe, you went from 20W break-in
il to straight 60W).  Definitely check the valve for burrs, etc.; maybe try a
ifferent spring.

 Sounds like your rebuild was good--most issues are with too low
ressure--but too high puts undue stress on the cam/distributor gear and
eals.

 Bob

 --------------------------------
 Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA



 After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and
0-50
 At 4000 rpm.
 Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil
 filter (moss # 235-880)
 After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at
000
 rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss

 235-830).
 Any ideas,

 Jose
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun May 22 09:01:42 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 23:01:42 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <B4AA8593-7CED-4891-A166-B9B9AE378010@yahoo.com>
References: <727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<B4AA8593-7CED-4891-A166-B9B9AE378010@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=yfo_zvesn0gFHypdw741KC42Vdg@mail.gmail.com>

Sometimes if there's an air bubble in the guage line, it will read
incorrectly.  Disconnect from back of guage, run motor for a few
seconds until squirting out, then re-attach....

Alan

On 5/22/11, Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have dennis welch oil pump
> Using 20-50w oil
> The holes of the adapter are correctly aligned
>  This situation afyer the oil and filter change
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On May 22, 2011, at 8:39 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Jose,
>>
>> Regardless of the filter, the oil pressure relief valve should limit the
> pressure to a maximum of (typically) 60-70psi.
>>
>> 30psi @ 1,000rpm is great, but 90 @ 4,000 seems too high; the obvious
> culprit would be the valve, but I can't explain how just changing the oil
> and
> filter would instigate the problem (unless, maybe, you went from 20W
> break-in
> oil to straight 60W).  Definitely check the valve for burrs, etc.; maybe try
> a
> different spring.
>>
>> Sounds like your rebuild was good--most issues are with too low
> pressure--but too high puts undue stress on the cam/distributor gear and
> seals.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> --------------------------------
>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and
> 40-50
>> At 4000 rpm.
>> Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil
>> filter (moss # 235-880)
>> After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at
> 4000
>> rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss
> #
>> 235-830).
>> Any ideas,
>>
>> Jose
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sun May 22 09:27:16 2011
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 08:27:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Metal Glue
Message-ID: <7FDC0C78038E4C5AB096CD5CF4BEFAEB@XPS400>

Is there a commercially available glue that is strong enough to bond some
metal body panels that may have some paint on them?     A few of the spot
welds on the reinforcement piece under the hood next to one hinge have broken.
It allows some flexing of the hood in that area.  I don't want to re-weld
because I don't want to have to repaint the hood or car.  I know that any glue
will only be as strong as the bonded surface and if there is paint under
there, it has to bond to the paint.  It also has to bridge small gaps since
the stamped metal support piece is not perfectly flat where it has to join the
bottom surface of the hood.  Am I dreaming or is there a glue that might be
worth trying to fix this problem?

Ron Fine
61BN7

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 22 09:38:34 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 15:38:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Metal Glue
In-Reply-To: <7FDC0C78038E4C5AB096CD5CF4BEFAEB@XPS400>
Message-ID: <2124618670.617570.1306078714453.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Supposedly, it's possible to do metal panel repair with adhesives. I have no experience with this, but it can be done. 

Here's one product: 

http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/duramixadhesive.aspx 

Google 'metal panel repair with adhesives' for lots of info. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



Is there a commercially available glue that is strong enough to bond some 
metal body panels that may have some paint on them? A few of the spot 
welds on the reinforcement piece under the hood next to one hinge have broken. 
It allows some flexing of the hood in that area. I don't want to re-weld 
because I don't want to have to repaint the hood or car. I know that any glue 
will only be as strong as the bonded surface and if there is paint under 
there, it has to bond to the paint. It also has to bridge small gaps since 
the stamped metal support piece is not perfectly flat where it has to join the 
bottom surface of the hood. Am I dreaming or is there a glue that might be 
worth trying to fix this problem? 

Ron Fine 
61BN7 
_______________________________________________ 

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Sun May 22 09:42:20 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 10:42:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=yfo_zvesn0gFHypdw741KC42Vdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<B4AA8593-7CED-4891-A166-B9B9AE378010@yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTi=yfo_zvesn0gFHypdw741KC42Vdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <047e01cc1896$d856a5e0$8903f1a0$@qwest.net>

Please tell me why an air bubble in the gauge line would cause the gauge to
read incorrectly.

Herb Miller 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 10:02 AM
To: Jose Vicente Vargas; Bob Spidell; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure

Sometimes if there's an air bubble in the guage line, it will read
incorrectly.  Disconnect from back of guage, run motor for a few seconds
until squirting out, then re-attach....

Alan

On 5/22/11, Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have dennis welch oil pump
> Using 20-50w oil
> The holes of the adapter are correctly aligned  This situation afyer 
> the oil and filter change
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On May 22, 2011, at 8:39 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Jose,
>>
>> Regardless of the filter, the oil pressure relief valve should limit 
>> the
> pressure to a maximum of (typically) 60-70psi.
>>
>> 30psi @ 1,000rpm is great, but 90 @ 4,000 seems too high; the obvious
> culprit would be the valve, but I can't explain how just changing the 
> oil and filter would instigate the problem (unless, maybe, you went 
> from 20W break-in oil to straight 60W).  Definitely check the valve 
> for burrs, etc.; maybe try a different spring.
>>
>> Sounds like your rebuild was good--most issues are with too low
> pressure--but too high puts undue stress on the cam/distributor gear 
> and seals.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> --------------------------------
>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm 
>> and
> 40-50
>> At 4000 rpm.
>> Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin 
>> on oil filter (moss # 235-880) After an oil and filter change this 
>> week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at
> 4000
>> rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N 
>> (moss
> #
>> 235-830).
>> Any ideas,
>>
>> Jose
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

--
Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May 22 10:14:50 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 18:14:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=yfo_zvesn0gFHypdw741KC42Vdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<B4AA8593-7CED-4891-A166-B9B9AE378010@yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTi=yfo_zvesn0gFHypdw741KC42Vdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DD9367A.1010806@chello.nl>

Sorry Alan, but that is nonsense. The only thing an air bubble may do is 
perhaps provide some damping if there is a serious vibration in the oil 
pressure, which is not likely or create a slight delay in the reading 
when the engine is cold and the oil pipe very long and thin. The 
pressure in the bubble will be the same as in the oil up or down the oil 
pipe. The reading will not be affected.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Sun May 22 10:26:05 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 12:26:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CDE6B4155C09F4-1E34-9E759@webmail-d130.sysops.aol.com>

 I had the same problem when I changed the oil in my BN7 to 20/50 Valvoline
racing oil.  Went back to straight 30 and I was back to 40lbs.

Ned Paulsen
1960BN7








-----Original Message-----
From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 22, 2011 12:21 am
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure


After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and
40-50
At 4000 rpm.
Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil
filter (moss # 235-880)
After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at 4000
rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss #
235-830).
Any ideas,

Jose




Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun May 22 10:45:08 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 09:45:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Metal Glue
In-Reply-To: <2124618670.617570.1306078714453.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2124618670.617570.1306078714453.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7D80E020-E882-48F0-8805-689B6B9A35D3@gmail.com>

They build Lotus and Astin Martins by gluing body sections together. We used
glue on some small panels on my car

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On May 22, 2011, at 8:38 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Supposedly, it's possible to do metal panel repair with adhesives. I have no
experience with this, but it can be done.
>
> Here's one product:
>
> http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/duramixadhesive.aspx
>
> Google 'metal panel repair with adhesives' for lots of info.
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> Is there a commercially available glue that is strong enough to bond some
> metal body panels that may have some paint on them? A few of the spot
> welds on the reinforcement piece under the hood next to one hinge have
broken.
> It allows some flexing of the hood in that area. I don't want to re-weld
> because I don't want to have to repaint the hood or car. I know that any
glue
> will only be as strong as the bonded surface and if there is paint under
> there, it has to bond to the paint. It also has to bridge small gaps since
> the stamped metal support piece is not perfectly flat where it has to join
the
> bottom surface of the hood. Am I dreaming or is there a glue that might be
> worth trying to fix this problem?
>
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun May 22 10:51:45 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 09:51:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <4DD8C1C6.9020006@chello.nl>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<4DD8C1C6.9020006@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <A94EFF67-BDB0-4C69-9FDD-087CB45BDE86@gmail.com>

Check oil level often. If pressure is that high. It will find its way out to
ground

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On May 22, 2011, at 12:56 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> The main cause is probably the earlier FRAM oil filter being of poor
> quality and having a rather high resistance.
> That said, 90 psi is very high so is this K&N filter OK and did you try
> another?
> However I do not think it will cause any harm. For normal use ca.
> 50-60psi at 2500rpm and a hot engine should be fine in most UK engines,
> in race applications it could be higher.
> Also, check the accuracy of the oil gauge!
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
coudesluijs.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun May 22 11:01:50 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 12:01:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <8CDE6B4155C09F4-1E34-9E759@webmail-d130.sysops.aol.com>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<8CDE6B4155C09F4-1E34-9E759@webmail-d130.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0564258E-95D3-46F3-9DAE-8ACA5489802B@yahoo.com>

I had 20/50w a nd again I have 20/50....

Could it be an adultered or used oil ? I notice that the oil pressure is
higher when the carbis hot....

I live in a Banana Republic so a funnynoil is possible....

Jose



Sent from my iPad


On May 22, 2011, at 11:26 AM, npaul72464 at aol.com wrote:

> I had the same problem when I changed the oil in my BN7 to 20/50 Valvoline
racing oil.  Went back to straight 30 and I was back to 40lbs.
>
> Ned Paulsen
> 1960BN7
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, May 22, 2011 12:21 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
>
> After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and
40-50
> At 4000 rpm.
> Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil
> filter (moss # 235-880)
> After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at
4000
> rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss
#
> 235-830).
> Any ideas,
>
> Jose
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Sun May 22 11:29:58 2011
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 18:29:58 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk>

One rather obscure problem that can cause the bypass valve not to open 
is if a hole in the sump gasket is not cut or for some other reason 
blocked.

There is a service sheet on this somewhere but take it from me that some 
gaskets used on later 2.2 or 2.5 litre engines did not have this hole 
cut. All that should happen it that the small amount of oil that gets 
past and behind the valve is supposed to bleed away through this hole 
into the sump. If the back of the valve is blocked this forms a solid 
plug of oil behind the valve and stops it performing as it should.

Regards

>
>Regardless of the filter, the oil pressure relief valve should limit 
>the pressure to a maximum of (typically) 60-70psi.
>
>30psi @ 1,000rpm is great, but 90 @ 4,000 seems too high; the obvious 
>culprit would be the valve, but I can't explain how just changing the 
>oil and filter would instigate the problem (unless, maybe, you went 
>from 20W break-in oil to straight 60W). Definitely check the valve for 
>burrs, etc.; maybe try a different spring.
>
>Sounds like your rebuild was good--most issues are with too low 
>pressure--but too high puts undue stress on the cam/distributor gear 
>and seals.
>
>Bob
>
>--------------------------------
>Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
>After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and 40-50
>At 4000 rpm.
>Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil
>filter (moss # 235-880)
>After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at 4000
>rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss #
>235-830).
>Any ideas,
>
>Jose
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk

-- 
John Harper

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun May 22 12:14:16 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:14:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <0D82DADE-5553-41B7-89FF-CE5CB7624543@yahoo.com>

I just changed the oil filter to a 4 dollar one and the same thing.......



Sent from my iPad


On May 22, 2011, at 12:29 PM, John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>
> One rather obscure problem that can cause the bypass valve not to open is if
a hole in the sump gasket is not cut or for some other reason blocked.
>
> There is a service sheet on this somewhere but take it from me that some
gaskets used on later 2.2 or 2.5 litre engines did not have this hole cut. All
that should happen it that the small amount of oil that gets past and behind
the valve is supposed to bleed away through this hole into the sump. If the
back of the valve is blocked this forms a solid plug of oil behind the valve
and stops it performing as it should.
>
> Regards
>
>>
>> Regardless of the filter, the oil pressure relief valve should limit the
pressure to a maximum of (typically) 60-70psi.
>>
>> 30psi @ 1,000rpm is great, but 90 @ 4,000 seems too high; the obvious
culprit would be the valve, but I can't explain how just changing the oil and
filter would instigate the problem (unless, maybe, you went from 20W break-in
oil to straight 60W). Definitely check the valve for burrs, etc.; maybe try a
different spring.
>>
>> Sounds like your rebuild was good--most issues are with too low
pressure--but too high puts undue stress on the cam/distributor gear and
seals.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> --------------------------------
>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm and
40-50
>> At 4000 rpm.
>> Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on oil
>> filter (moss # 235-880)
>> After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90 at
4000
>> rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N (moss
#
>> 235-830).
>> Any ideas,
>>
>> Jose
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
>
> --
> John Harper

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun May 22 13:16:57 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 14:16:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Metal Glue
In-Reply-To: <7D80E020-E882-48F0-8805-689B6B9A35D3@gmail.com>
References: <2124618670.617570.1306078714453.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<7D80E020-E882-48F0-8805-689B6B9A35D3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F2815232A97A49FCBD0744A2C78B2256@GregPC>

You can get a two part epoxy at body shops, they demo it by gluing two 
pieces together then trying to tear them apart, I have not seen it but a 
number of people tell me that the metal tears before the bond, supposed to 
be better than a weld.  There is a special gun that mixes the two parts they 
loan you with the epoxy.

Can you get a sheet of sand paper of fill in the area to scrub off some of 
the paint, I am sure if you could do that would work fine.

Greg Lemon

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Sun May 22 13:57:38 2011
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Schneider Mark)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 12:57:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System
Message-ID: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>

A couple of weeks ago I lost a blade off of the radiator fan.   Boy, was that
exciting!  I decided to use the opportunity to thoroughly inspect and test all
components of the cooling system.  Anything I found with a problem I replaced.
Obviously, the fan is first on the list.   As I read an information tech sheet
associated with the one source of the Texas Cooler I came across something
about which I would appreciate some lister input.  The article points out that
the big Healey cooling system design has a bypass that circulates coolant
through the engine until the thermost  at opens.  If one is using an after
market, non-sleeved, regular type of thermostat which remains closed until
reaching temperature, there is no flow through the radiator core.  Do I have
this right?  The article suggest drilling a couple of small holes in the rim
of the thermostat to allow a small amount of flow until the thermostat fully
opens.  In all the years I have owned a Healey I had never heard of this
before.  What is the experience of the list members???

Marks 3

From kags at shaw.ca  Sun May 22 14:16:53 2011
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:16:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System
In-Reply-To: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9F0B0491C4B74327A69FCE9338505F3A@KagsLaptop>

Mark:

You're close.  As I understand it, the bypass function on the engine is 
designed to block (mostly) the bypass hole to the head with the sleeve on 
the thermostat in order to speed up the warm-up.  This is what I learned 
when experimenting with sleeving regular thermostats years ago.  I 
understand that reproductions of the original Smiths (sleeved) thermostat 
are now available, but I have not checked.

In other words, it's no big deal to run a current (cheap) thermostat - we've 
all been doing it for a long time.

If some other list guru wants to correct this if I've got it wrong, or 
expand on this, please help out.

Hope the fan blade did minimal damage - I've heard some horror stories!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Schneider Mark
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 12:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

A couple of weeks ago I lost a blade off of the radiator fan.   Boy, was 
that
exciting!  I decided to use the opportunity to thoroughly inspect and test 
all
components of the cooling system.  Anything I found with a problem I 
replaced.
Obviously, the fan is first on the list.   As I read an information tech 
sheet
associated with the one source of the Texas Cooler I came across something
about which I would appreciate some lister input.  The article points out 
that
the big Healey cooling system design has a bypass that circulates coolant
through the engine until the thermost  at opens.  If one is using an after
market, non-sleeved, regular type of thermostat which remains closed until
reaching temperature, there is no flow through the radiator core.  Do I have
this right?  The article suggest drilling a couple of small holes in the rim
of the thermostat to allow a small amount of flow until the thermostat fully
opens.  In all the years I have owned a Healey I had never heard of this
before.  What is the experience of the list members???

Marks 3

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun May 22 14:25:38 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 16:25:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed
In-Reply-To: <4DD7CCD2.00000C.05536@MEL-HP>
References: <4DD7CCD2.00000C.05536@MEL-HP>
Message-ID: <004301cc18be$69b627a0$3d2276e0$@rr.com>

Hi, Mel -
Pete Delaney's wife had a recent heart attack and that may have slowed down
their response to you.  I will forward your e-mail to someone who might be
able to help you get the info you desire.

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of edic at tampabay.rr.com
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 10:32 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 5 speed

Folks,

I have called the people who advertise the Healey 5 Speed in the Healey
Marque and asked them to email me some information with prices on their
product. I have called them twice over the last two weeks and have not
received an acknowledgement of my call. Does anyone know if these people are
still in business?

My overdrive is probably in need of repair and hopefully it is not too
expensive, but if it is, I need to explore the alternative of a Toyota 5
Speed that will make life easier. I would appreciate hearing from people who
have done this, and give me some things to look out for, and what the final
cost is likely to be, ball park. You can contact me off list so as to not
upset the people who get annoyed at deleting these messages.

Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/39749
Land O Lakes, Fl

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Sun May 22 14:42:10 2011
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 16:42:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=dyammZVKhmhubUS9Ly8kfYZk6Pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<0D82DADE-5553-41B7-89FF-CE5CB7624543@yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTi=dyammZVKhmhubUS9Ly8kfYZk6Pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=rnFGPgXy09rpo-LCFqtQHuJG92Q@mail.gmail.com>

Was youe engine really, really warmed up when you got to 4000 rpm, or still
somewhat cool? If not hot, maybe th 50 part of the 20/50w was impacting your
reading.

Bob Johnson
Bj8

On May 22, 2011 2:16 PM, "Jose Vicente Vargas" <jvvmusme at yahoo.com> wrote:

I just changed the oil filter to a 4 dollar one and the same thing.......



Sent from my iPad



On May 22, 2011, at 12:29 PM, John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>
> One rather obscure ...

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May 22 14:46:41 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 22:46:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System
In-Reply-To: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DD97631.4060502@chello.nl>

Mark,
Why not fit a NOS OE (Smiths 85025/.. or the equivalent AC TC.) sleeved 
thermostat. I have some available that I recently sourced with various 
opening temperatures ranging from 68:C to 86:C.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun May 22 14:47:14 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 16:47:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System
In-Reply-To: <9F0B0491C4B74327A69FCE9338505F3A@KagsLaptop>
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
	<9F0B0491C4B74327A69FCE9338505F3A@KagsLaptop>
Message-ID: <045001cc18c1$6ee68e60$4cb3ab20$@verizon.net>

Why not just buy a bypass thermostat. British Car Specialists has them.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Earl Kagna
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 4:17 PM
To: Schneider Mark; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Mark:

You're close.  As I understand it, the bypass function on the engine is
designed to block (mostly) the bypass hole to the head with the sleeve on
the thermostat in order to speed up the warm-up.  This is what I learned
when experimenting with sleeving regular thermostats years ago.  I
understand that reproductions of the original Smiths (sleeved) thermostat
are now available, but I have not checked.

In other words, it's no big deal to run a current (cheap) thermostat - we've
all been doing it for a long time.

If some other list guru wants to correct this if I've got it wrong, or
expand on this, please help out.

Hope the fan blade did minimal damage - I've heard some horror stories!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message-----
From: Schneider Mark
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 12:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

A couple of weeks ago I lost a blade off of the radiator fan.   Boy, was
that
exciting!  I decided to use the opportunity to thoroughly inspect and test
all components of the cooling system.  Anything I found with a problem I
replaced.
Obviously, the fan is first on the list.   As I read an information tech
sheet
associated with the one source of the Texas Cooler I came across something
about which I would appreciate some lister input.  The article points out
that the big Healey cooling system design has a bypass that circulates
coolant through the engine until the thermost  at opens.  If one is using an
after market, non-sleeved, regular type of thermostat which remains closed
until reaching temperature, there is no flow through the radiator core.  Do
I have this right?  The article suggest drilling a couple of small holes in
the rim of the thermostat to allow a small amount of flow until the
thermostat fully opens.  In all the years I have owned a Healey I had never
heard of this before.  What is the experience of the list members???

Marks 3

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun May 22 15:03:37 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 17:03:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ8 Cooling System
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
	<9F0B0491C4B74327A69FCE9338505F3A@KagsLaptop>
Message-ID: <045101cc18c3$b8b94260$2a2bc720$@verizon.net>

I meant sleeved. Sorry


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 4:47 PM
To: 'Earl Kagna'; 'Schneider Mark'; 'healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Why not just buy a bypass thermostat. British Car Specialists has them.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Earl Kagna
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 4:17 PM
To: Schneider Mark; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Mark:

You're close.  As I understand it, the bypass function on the engine is
designed to block (mostly) the bypass hole to the head with the sleeve on
the thermostat in order to speed up the warm-up.  This is what I learned
when experimenting with sleeving regular thermostats years ago.  I
understand that reproductions of the original Smiths (sleeved) thermostat
are now available, but I have not checked.

In other words, it's no big deal to run a current (cheap) thermostat - we've
all been doing it for a long time.

If some other list guru wants to correct this if I've got it wrong, or
expand on this, please help out.

Hope the fan blade did minimal damage - I've heard some horror stories!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message-----
From: Schneider Mark
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 12:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

A couple of weeks ago I lost a blade off of the radiator fan.   Boy, was
that
exciting!  I decided to use the opportunity to thoroughly inspect and test
all components of the cooling system.  Anything I found with a problem I
replaced.
Obviously, the fan is first on the list.   As I read an information tech
sheet
associated with the one source of the Texas Cooler I came across something
about which I would appreciate some lister input.  The article points out
that the big Healey cooling system design has a bypass that circulates
coolant through the engine until the thermost  at opens.  If one is using an
after market, non-sleeved, regular type of thermostat which remains closed
until reaching temperature, there is no flow through the radiator core.  Do
I have this right?  The article suggest drilling a couple of small holes in
the rim of the thermostat to allow a small amount of flow until the
thermostat fully opens.  In all the years I have owned a Healey I had never
heard of this before.  What is the experience of the list members???

Marks 3

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun May 22 15:10:51 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 16:10:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=rnFGPgXy09rpo-LCFqtQHuJG92Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<0D82DADE-5553-41B7-89FF-CE5CB7624543@yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTi=dyammZVKhmhubUS9Ly8kfYZk6Pw@mail.gmail.com>
	<BANLkTi=rnFGPgXy09rpo-LCFqtQHuJG92Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D5CFE808-7680-46C7-A097-A1E645CEDBF0@yahoo.com>

Warmed and cool... No difference
I change to a cheap oil filter and nothing...
Jose



Sent from my iPad


On May 22, 2011, at 3:42 PM, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Was youe engine really, really warmed up when you got to 4000 rpm, or still
somewhat cool? If not hot, maybe th 50 part of the 20/50w was impacting your
reading.
>
> Bob Johnson
> Bj8
>
>> On May 22, 2011 2:16 PM, "Jose Vicente Vargas" <jvvmusme at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> I just changed the oil filter to a 4 dollar one and the same thing.......
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>> On May 22, 2011, at 12:29 PM, John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > One rather obscure ...

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sun May 22 15:30:22 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 23:30:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4DD9806E.2040606@bredband.net>

Hi
I suggest you check that hole in the sump gasket that John Harper 
suggests. This is the escape route for the excess oil. If that hole is 
not open no oil will pass by no matter what the pressure is.
So, drop the pan and check the gasket.

Per

John Harper skrev 2011-05-22 19:29:
> One rather obscure problem that can cause the bypass valve not to open
> is if a hole in the sump gasket is not cut or for some other reason
> blocked.
>
> There is a service sheet on this somewhere but take it from me that some
> gaskets used on later 2.2 or 2.5 litre engines did not have this hole
> cut. All that should happen it that the small amount of oil that gets
> past and behind the valve is supposed to bleed away through this hole
> into the sump. If the back of the valve is blocked this forms a solid
> plug of oil behind the valve and stops it performing as it should.
>
> Regards
>
>>
>> Regardless of the filter, the oil pressure relief valve should limit
>> the pressure to a maximum of (typically) 60-70psi.
>>
>> 30psi @ 1,000rpm is great, but 90 @ 4,000 seems too high; the obvious
>> culprit would be the valve, but I can't explain how just changing the
>> oil and filter would instigate the problem (unless, maybe, you went
>> from 20W break-in oil to straight 60W). Definitely check the valve for
>> burrs, etc.; maybe try a different spring.
>>
>> Sounds like your rebuild was good--most issues are with too low
>> pressure--but too high puts undue stress on the cam/distributor gear
>> and seals.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> --------------------------------
>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> After the engine rebuilt I had normal oil pressure 20-30 at 1000 rpm
>> and 40-50
>> At 4000 rpm.
>> Using the spin oil filter adapter from moss and the cheap fram spin on
>> oil
>> filter (moss # 235-880)
>> After an oil and filter change this week I get 30 at 1000 rpm and 90
>> at 4000
>> rpm and 100 at 5000 rpm. I changed the oil spin on filter to the K&N
>> (moss #
>> 235-830).
>> Any ideas,
>>
>> Jose
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk

From redingtonranch at vtc.net  Sun May 22 16:00:25 2011
From: redingtonranch at vtc.net (Don Steinman)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 15:00:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Westland A1543
Message-ID: <BFE9E69D4A84434CB86EA717B6A2C4CB@Don>

I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me where the Westland A1543
was between 1982 and now.  I know where it is as of this moment and am aware
that it was in Florida in 2000.  I am trying to trace it's travels since 1982.
Any help would be appreciated.  I am particularly interested in how it got to
Florida.

Don Steinman...

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Sun May 22 16:26:49 2011
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 00:26:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Car Show in Sweden feauturing Healeys
Message-ID: <5320F192-7427-45AE-AD49-CD221D64955A@bornet.net>

For those of you that might be interested I have updated my website with a new
post covering a very interesting Classic Car Show.

http://www.concourshealeys.com/tjoloholm-castle-classic-car-show-2011/

Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun May 22 16:42:44 2011
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 18:42:44 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Car Show in Sweden feauturing Healeys
Message-ID: <18d5d.7ec5903a.3b0aeb64@aol.com>

Thanks Magnus- Great pictures. 
 
 
In a message dated 5/22/2011 6:28:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
magnuskarlsson at bornet.net writes:

http://www.concourshealeys.com/tjoloholm-castle-classic-car-show-2011/

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun May 22 16:55:19 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 15:55:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] '48 Healey Woodie
In-Reply-To: <58888031-FDC3-4067-A024-2772CF09940F@gmail.com>
References: <58888031-FDC3-4067-A024-2772CF09940F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikHJU2=j5RVzCDEtzpmWA293wo+KA@mail.gmail.com>

Neat a "Shooting Break" Healey, now that is too cool.  I wondered if any of
this style existed after I saw it on page 19 (black and white photo in the
lower left corner)  in "The Healey Book" some years ago.

This is probably my favorite Healey, so it's nice to see a nicely restored
example.  I wish I had the money.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 1:42 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:

> Check this out!
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Healey-Woodie-/160591131241?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&
> hash=item2563fa3269#ht_500wt_1019
>
> Ebay Item #:   160591131241
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (for sale)
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sun May 22 17:02:08 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 16:02:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine gaskets
In-Reply-To: <747185.21589.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <735375.59619.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

All,

I started working on the gaskets.  I de-greesed the engine and tranny as
much as I could. The pan and front gaskets are damp, but not dripping.
Running up on the jack stands,I'm getting black oil dripping out of a hole in
the bottom of the bell housing with what looks like a cotter pin wobbling
around in it. I'm also getting clear oil off the OD end of the tranny. 

I
changed the rear and middle side cover gaskets since they were seeping.  I
ordered from Moss a cork gasket for the rear, which was too big, and a very
thick rubber gasket for the middle, which was way too small and now leaking.
Really?  Is this right?

Also, David, when changing the oil filter using the
method described in Tech Talk (what a great reference), do you fill the
canister with oil before replacing it?  If so, it's just as messy as removing
and replacing just the canister, it just moves the mess away from the starter
motor. 

Greg
65BJ8

--- On Sun, 5/15/11, Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>
wrote:

> From: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8
engine gaskets
> To: "Team Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date:
Sunday, May 15, 2011, 7:16 PM
> Thanks all for your advice and
> methodical
processes. I will follow them
> praying for the best.  An engine rebuild is
not in the
> budget at the moment. 
> I figure I'd start with the easy ones,
as the car sat in a
> Georgia (read: hot
> southern state) barn for 30 years
and need changing due to
> age if nothing
> else.
> 
> Does anyone have a
recommendation for an eastern
> Connecticut mechanic who has
> done the rear
seal mod?
> Greg

From pennell at cox.net  Sun May 22 17:29:15 2011
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 19:29:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fog/Driving lLights
In-Reply-To: <4DD762FD.4060501@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <20110522192915.T5D8I.530224.imail@eastrmwml35>

Not to beat a dead horse but the yellow lenses are also clear.  As I used to tell my students clear means you can see through it, the opposite of opaque.   To illustrate much stained glass is clear, but little of it is white - or yellow for that matter.  All driving an fog lenses are clear.  They may also be yellow or colorless.

Just had to get it off my chest
Keith

---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote: 
> To thicken the fog, fog and spot lights can both be yellow and clear 
> (white if you like). If you have clear lenses you can also have yellow 
> bulbs as was mandatory in France not even to long ago. They were of a 
> lower wattage I believe. Lucas spot lights can usually be converted to 
> fog lights and the other way around by changing the lenses. As Jack 
> pointed out the spot lights have mainly plain unprofiled lenses with a 
> parabolic reflector to direct the light straight ahead while fog lights 
> have a profiled/ribbed lens to direct the light at a wide angle just in 
> front of the car with a sharp, low cut off as not to direct light 
> upwards because that will blind you in thick fog.
> 
> Modern (fog, spot, head) lights have all clear lenses as all focussing 
> is done by the computer designed reflector.
> Discharge lights are a different breed altogether.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> 
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sun May 22 18:17:11 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 17:17:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine gaskets
In-Reply-To: <735375.59619.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <735375.59619.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8EAC0285-2DBF-4E89-B33D-449E287A9F7B@sbcglobal.net>

No it is not necessary to fill the filter prior to installing.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On May 22, 2011, at 4:02 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:

> All,
>
> I started working on the gaskets.  I de-greesed the engine and tranny as
> much as I could. The pan and front gaskets are damp, but not dripping.
> Running up on the jack stands,I'm getting black oil dripping out of a hole
in
> the bottom of the bell housing with what looks like a cotter pin wobbling
> around in it. I'm also getting clear oil off the OD end of the tranny.
>
> I
> changed the rear and middle side cover gaskets since they were seeping.  I
> ordered from Moss a cork gasket for the rear, which was too big, and a very
> thick rubber gasket for the middle, which was way too small and now
leaking.
> Really?  Is this right?
>
> Also, David, when changing the oil filter using the
> method described in Tech Talk (what a great reference), do you fill the
> canister with oil before replacing it?  If so, it's just as messy as
removing
> and replacing just the canister, it just moves the mess away from the
starter
> motor.
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
>
> --- On Sun, 5/15/11, Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>> From: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8
> engine gaskets
>> To: "Team Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date:
> Sunday, May 15, 2011, 7:16 PM
>> Thanks all for your advice and
>> methodical
> processes. I will follow them
>> praying for the best.  An engine rebuild is
> not in the
>> budget at the moment.
>> I figure I'd start with the easy ones,
> as the car sat in a
>> Georgia (read: hot
>> southern state) barn for 30 years
> and need changing due to
>> age if nothing
>> else.
>>
>> Does anyone have a
> recommendation for an eastern
>> Connecticut mechanic who has
>> done the rear
> seal mod?
>> Greg
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From gardner5 at comcast.net  Sun May 22 18:18:24 2011
From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 00:18:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 S numbers
In-Reply-To: <20110522192915.T5D8I.530224.imail@eastrmwml35>
Message-ID: <275353259.765060.1306109904910.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Can anyone tell me howB many of the 55B authentic 100S's have survived to this
day?



Joel

BN2

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun May 22 18:31:05 2011
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 17:31:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 S numbers
In-Reply-To: <275353259.765060.1306109904910.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20110522192915.T5D8I.530224.imail@eastrmwml35>
	<275353259.765060.1306109904910.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimTjrr9-Y9ZSJV7bdEvWWh1RS_tPQ@mail.gmail.com>

Joel,

Not exactly 55 since two of the special test cars were re-manufactured as
Factory 100S's and therefore are replicas of themselves, so more like 53
original cars.  At last count I believe that there was well over 30
accounted for possibly 37.  Of course "accounted for" means that the demise
of certain cars is known.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 5:18 PM, <gardner5 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Can anyone tell me howB many of the 55B authentic 100S's have survived to
> this
> day?
>
>
>
> Joel
>
> BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sun May 22 18:58:27 2011
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 20:58:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Car Show in Sweden feauturing Healeys
In-Reply-To: <5320F192-7427-45AE-AD49-CD221D64955A@bornet.net>
References: <5320F192-7427-45AE-AD49-CD221D64955A@bornet.net>
Message-ID: <8491B812-719B-4E8A-89FD-9A62D1C297AB@mac.com>

Thanks Magnus! I enjoyed those. Particularly the rare BMWs and the Volvos were nice too.

Lin Rose
1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body.
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have it!
1964 Jag MKII - current project
On May 22, 2011, at 6:26 PM, Magnus Karlsson wrote:

> For those of you that might be interested I have updated my website with a new
> post covering a very interesting Classic Car Show.
> 
> http://www.concourshealeys.com/tjoloholm-castle-classic-car-show-2011/
> 
> Magnus Karlsson

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun May 22 21:15:42 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 20:15:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OD solenoid bracket and more
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110522200221.0203c578@pop.att.yahoo.com>

When I took the cover off of the solenoid bracket I noticed some oil. 
It is leaking from around the cross shaft.

I have not opened up the OD yet but I was wondering.
Questions:

1. Once the cross shaft seal is replaced does that usually fix the 
oil leak around the shaft into the bracket/shaft lever housing?
2. My overdrive seemed to work fine when I drove the car way back in 
2003 and I intend to replace the OD gaskets and seals. Should I 
replace the accumulator rings and seal too?
3. Should I replace the piston ring sets too?
4. Anything special that I should look for when I take it off the trans?
5. Does anyone sell the Lucas rubber solenoid cover?
6. Does anyone have an NOS rubber solenoid cover? It does not hurt to 
ask, it only hurts when you get what you want and have to pay for it!

I have removed it before and know the tricks to reattach it to the trans.

I had not intended to rebuild the OD.

Thank you,
John Spaur
'62 BT7

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun May 22 21:50:18 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 03:50:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?thermostats?=
Message-ID: <20110523035018.9187.qmail@server278.com>

i just do not understand this whole thermostat question.  both my healeys have a cheap $4 thermostat in them and i can only get a couple of miles from the house before the temp has gone up to about 200, back to about 160 or so them quickly settles in at 185 where it stays until i shut it down.  i do not see the problem.   hjim

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun May 22 21:56:27 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 20:56:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostats
In-Reply-To: <20110523035018.9187.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20110523035018.9187.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=ftv3LS8=vTLLNX1Arfqk5r_oxdw@mail.gmail.com>

I drive my car during winter dry spells and temps in the 30-40degree range
and it takes quite some time to warm up to driving temps, I bought a sleved
unit, but will need to wait until next winter to check it out. Health issues
and unemployment have slowed my resto. But we are replacing the wire harness
this week if my body cooperates

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 22, 2011 8:50 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
> i just do not understand this whole thermostat question. both my healeys
have a cheap $4 thermostat in them and i can only get a couple of miles from
the house before the temp has gone up to about 200, back to about 160 or so
them quickly settles in at 185 where it stays until i shut it down. i do not
see the problem. hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sun May 22 23:24:56 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 01:24:56 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changing Questions
Message-ID: <ab4d.34662fc5.3b0b49a8@aol.com>

Regarding that little cotter-pin sticking through the hole in the bell 
housing -- hard to believe in today's world, but that is the best of British 
just-make-it-work engineering in the day. Starting at the back of the crank, 
what keeps the oil inside the engine, given that they didn't have a good way 
to seal a shaft spinning at up to 5,000 rpm, is a "reverse archimedes screw" 
which acts like a screw pump, constantly acting to throw oil passing out 
along the rear of the crankshaft back into the sump. That along with the slight 
negative pressure keeps the oil inside while you're running along the road. 
However, when you shut down, the change in pressure, and the curtailment of 
the pump action of the reverse screw means that a tiny little bit of oil is 
going to seep out of the rear of the crank opening and into the tranny bell 
housing. 
Since the oil has got to go somewhere, they drilled a little hole in the 
bottom so it would have a place to leak out. However, since any oily hole in 
the bottom of the car is going to get gunked over with dirt over time, they 
put the cotter-pin into the hole to keep the hole clear. 
So the cotter pin is a "good thing" and a little (tablespoonful) of oil 
dripping out when you park the car is within specifications.

Now, as to the question of whether to fill the new oil filter? I'm amazed 
at David Nock's advice. No, you don't HAVE to fill the oil filter before 
attaching it. You can rely on the engine oil pump to EVENTUALLY push oil through 
the filter and into the rest of the engine. Or you can fill the filter 
first, so that oil is forced into the top of the engine almost immediately when 
you start it up for the first time on an oil change.

If you really like to sit there, as many old school mechanics often do, and 
listen to the engine run dry, with the oil pressure at zero, for the time 
it takes to get most of a quart of oil into the filter and then through it 
into the rest of the engine, go ahead. Or you can be ultra careful and first 
fill the filter before attaching it (the trick is to remove the entire 
fixture off the side of the engine, change the filter, make sure everything is 
neatly sealed up again, and then reattach the filter, canister, and fitting to 
the side of the engine. Then you can remove the spark plugs

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sun May 22 23:27:04 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 01:27:04 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Changing oil and filter
Message-ID: <ac47.3f660167.3b0b4a28@aol.com>

Accidentally transmitted -- 
Or you can fill the filter canister with oil, attach it to the engine, 
remove the spark plugs and turn over the engine on the starter until you get oil 
pressure on the gauge, then put the spark plugs in and fire it up, 
confident that when the engine first fires, new oil will have permeated the entire 
engine. 
That's the procedure I follow, and I firmly believe it increases engine 
life. 
YMMV.
G.

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Mon May 23 00:12:03 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 08:12:03 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 S numbers
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimTjrr9-Y9ZSJV7bdEvWWh1RS_tPQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20110522192915.T5D8I.530224.imail@eastrmwml35>
	<275353259.765060.1306109904910.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BANLkTimTjrr9-Y9ZSJV7bdEvWWh1RS_tPQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimf+-H6rvnOyt=9jgOSj9tWp+fA-Q@mail.gmail.com>

Depends also on what you mean by survived!

There is at least one that is 'restored'  from it's chassis plate and its
original fuel filler cap. I don't know if it is counted as one of the
survivors or not.

Derek

Derek

On Mon, May 23, 2011 at 2:31 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>wrote:

> Joel,
>
> Not exactly 55 since two of the special test cars were re-manufactured as
> Factory 100S's and therefore are replicas of themselves, so more like 53
> original cars.  At last count I believe that there was well over 30
> accounted for possibly 37.  Of course "accounted for" means that the demise
> of certain cars is known.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 5:18 PM, <gardner5 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Can anyone tell me howB many of the 55B authentic 100S's have survived to
> > this
> > day?
> >
> >
> >
> > Joel
> >
> > BN2
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>  _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 23 00:18:33 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 08:18:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <4DD9806E.2040606@bredband.net>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk> <4DD9806E.2040606@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <4DD9FC39.9040104@chello.nl>

Question is: was the gasket replaced just before the raise in oil 
pressure occurred? If the gasket was not replaced this cannot be the cause.
 From all descriptions and try outs I can only conclude that the 
overflow/pressure valve/spring in the oil pump is stuck
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 23 00:28:40 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 08:28:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fog/Driving lLights
In-Reply-To: <20110522192915.T5D8I.530224.imail@eastrmwml35>
References: <20110522192915.T5D8I.530224.imail@eastrmwml35>
Message-ID: <4DD9FE98.2020204@chello.nl>

Keith you're a nitpicker. I am not a native English speaker as you are 
well aware.
OK, yellow and colorless clear glass lenses, but you know what I mean, 
more or less unprofiled glass for a spotlight and ribbed to shape the 
beam for a fog light.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon May 23 00:34:23 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 01:34:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Changing oil and filter
In-Reply-To: <ac47.3f660167.3b0b4a28@aol.com>
References: <ac47.3f660167.3b0b4a28@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F6CA3D8043D74110A9F3A468034DFE98@GregPC>

I have no problem with the theory of pre-filling the filter, but I have 
always figured that I would spill a good bit of it when trying to install (I 
know I always do when taking it off).  Don't know about the 6 cylinder cars, 
but in the 100 and other British cars I have owned you sort of have to 
thread the cannister in and out of the car, with one hand, sometimes two, 
trading one for the other when the first hand and cannister can go no 
farther.

The oil filter actually fills up pretty quickly even when empty, in fact I 
had an MGB that took nearly as long every time I started it (oil cooler 
hoses must have drained best guess) and drove it for years and the engine 
maintained good oil pressure, the rust killed it, I think the motor was 
ready to go on forever, or at least into Volvo like numbers.

I agree in the perfect world would be great to not have to start with the 
filter dry, no ill effect that I have experienced, but admittedly hard to 
guage (nothing blew up, no bearing spun, but who knows, maybe took a little 
life off the motor).

To those that can keep the filter upright through the process, including 
holding the additional weight when trying to get the bolt started against 
the force of the spring as well, all I can say is I am suitably impressed. 
Maybe it is easier if one has a lift and isn't either leaning over the 
fender, or reaching up on your back.....

Greg Lemon

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Mon May 23 01:35:58 2011
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 09:35:58 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System
In-Reply-To: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim6DQ1-fG6XYNC59BF8Gc9qZoPPJA@mail.gmail.com>

Mark, replace your fan with a nice yellow plastic 5-blade fan from any old
Volvo. 8 bucks at a scrap yard. Works excellent, stays in one piece.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2011/5/22 Schneider Mark <mandmschneider at comcast.net>

> A couple of weeks ago I lost a blade off of the radiator fan.   Boy, was
> that
> exciting!  I decided to use the opportunity to thoroughly inspect and test
> all
> components of the cooling system.  Anything I found with a problem I
> replaced.
> Obviously, the fan is first on the list.   As I read an information tech
> sheet
> associated with the one source of the Texas Cooler I came across something
> about which I would appreciate some lister input.  The article points out
> that
> the big Healey cooling system design has a bypass that circulates coolant
> through the engine until the thermost  at opens.  If one is using an after
> market, non-sleeved, regular type of thermostat which remains closed until
> reaching temperature, there is no flow through the radiator core.  Do I
> have
> this right?  The article suggest drilling a couple of small holes in the
> rim
> of the thermostat to allow a small amount of flow until the thermostat
> fully
> opens.  In all the years I have owned a Healey I had never heard of this
> before.  What is the experience of the list members???
>
> Marks 3
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Mon May 23 01:42:25 2011
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 08:42:25 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changing Questions
In-Reply-To: <ab4d.34662fc5.3b0b49a8@aol.com>
References: <ab4d.34662fc5.3b0b49a8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <xKhqMlBh$g2NFwZG@jharper.demon.co.uk>

This may be of interest because it happened to me recently. I have high 
hydraulically lifting ramps and lifted the front of the 100 very high to 
work under the front.

When I looked underneath I could see  oil dripping from the cotter pin 
so assumed that engine oil was flowing from the sump, through the 
Archimedes screw and down the rear of the backplate. I quickly lowered 
the car a little and the dripping stopped after a while. Just as well 
that the cotter pin was a loose fit as intended.

This is not the end of the story. When I came to look inside the car I 
saw that steering gear oil had run back up the column and down the 
steering wheel. Fortunately I had a seat cover temporarily fitted.

So be warned you cannot raise the front of a 100 beyond a certain point.

Regards

>Regarding that little cotter-pin sticking through the hole in the bell
>housing -- hard to believe in today's world, but that is the best of British
>just-make-it-work engineering in the day. Starting at the back of the crank,
>what keeps the oil inside the engine, given that they didn't have a good way
>to seal a shaft spinning at up to 5,000 rpm, is a "reverse archimedes screw"
>which acts like a screw pump, constantly acting to throw oil passing out
>along the rear of the crankshaft back into the sump.

-- 
John Harper

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 23 02:45:30 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 10:45:30 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System
In-Reply-To: <4DD97631.4060502@chello.nl>
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
	<4DD97631.4060502@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4DDA1EAA.5090304@chello.nl>

Rectification on my earlier message not AC TC but AC TF1, 2, 3 or 4.
Sorry,
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon May 23 05:28:47 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 06:28:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Latest news:  Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <4DD9FC39.9040104@chello.nl>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk> <4DD9806E.2040606@bredband.net>
	<4DD9FC39.9040104@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <D6DB3177-B4E9-4907-A62A-EBA09538D450@yahoo.com>

Last night I changed the gauge: same results
I removed the spring and relieve valve, no metal debris, cleaned it and
reinstalled it: same results
Tonigth I am going to pump air through the valve relieve hole into the oil
system, after removing the oil filter and gauge: good or bad idea ?
I am considering changing the oil: any logic on that ?

Thanks,

Jose




Sent from my iPad


On May 23, 2011, at 1:18 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Question is: was the gasket replaced just before the raise in oil
> pressure occurred? If the gasket was not replaced this cannot be the cause.
> From all descriptions and try outs I can only conclude that the
> overflow/pressure valve/spring in the oil pump is stuck
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
coudesluijs.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 23 06:13:44 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 14:13:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Latest news:  Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <D6DB3177-B4E9-4907-A62A-EBA09538D450@yahoo.com>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk> <4DD9806E.2040606@bredband.net>
	<4DD9FC39.9040104@chello.nl>
	<D6DB3177-B4E9-4907-A62A-EBA09538D450@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DDA4F78.6060208@chello.nl>

Op 23-5-2011 13:28, Jose Vicente Vargas schreef:
> Tonigth I am going to pump air through the valve relieve hole into the oil system, after removing the oil filter and gauge: good or bad idea ?
Bad idea. You may dislodge dirt, debris that will go straight into your 
bearings. You should only do this when the engine is completely dismantled.
If the drain hole in the gasket is not blocked I can only say change the 
oil and check the pressure again with the engine hot (not warm). If 
still to high the spring of the relieve valve should be replaced to 
lower the pressure if you think it is excessive.

However I would still feel uncomfortable not to know the cause of the 
sudden increase of the oil pressure.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Mon May 23 06:13:56 2011
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 14:13:56 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Latest news:  Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <D6DB3177-B4E9-4907-A62A-EBA09538D450@yahoo.com>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk> <4DD9806E.2040606@bredband.net>
	<4DD9FC39.9040104@chello.nl>
	<D6DB3177-B4E9-4907-A62A-EBA09538D450@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D839C6178@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>

Jose,
Could it be you installed the oil filter adapter 1800 wrong? Then the oil
channels are blocked.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Jose Vicente Vargas
Gesendet: Montag, 23. Mai 2011 13:29
An: Oudesluys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] Latest news: Bn2 excessive oil pressure

Last night I changed the gauge: same results I removed the spring and relieve
valve, no metal debris, cleaned it and reinstalled it: same results Tonigth I
am going to pump air through the valve relieve hole into the oil system, after
removing the oil filter and gauge: good or bad idea ?
I am considering changing the oil: any logic on that ?

Thanks,

Jose

From dndwills at verizon.net  Mon May 23 06:46:39 2011
From: dndwills at verizon.net (DANIEL WILLS)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 08:46:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] gluing panels
Message-ID: <70D0372C-2B89-4B87-A0F1-37A01F8DFD0B@verizon.net>

I have also used a type of glue for that purpose. It was a  two part  
material and was easy to use, somewhat thick. . It used a two tube  
dispenser which mixed the stuff as it came out but I also mixed it  
with a knife, 50 - 50 as I remember.  I would say that you might take  
the paint off in the immediate area to get a good bond. Check with an  
auto paint supply house.
Dan

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon May 23 07:07:47 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 08:07:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Latest news:  Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D839C6178@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk> <4DD9806E.2040606@bredband.net>
	<4DD9FC39.9040104@chello.nl>
	<D6DB3177-B4E9-4907-A62A-EBA09538D450@yahoo.com>
	<C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D839C6178@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <38460218-11C0-462F-93D4-D49B1BD569DF@yahoo.com>

Oil filter adapter ok



Sent from my iPad


On May 23, 2011, at 7:13 AM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:

> Jose,
> Could it be you installed the oil filter adapter 180B0 wrong? Then the oil
channels are blocked.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
> -----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Im Auftrag von Jose Vicente Vargas
> Gesendet: Montag, 23. Mai 2011 13:29
> An: Oudesluys
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Healeys] Latest news: Bn2 excessive oil pressure
>
> Last night I changed the gauge: same results I removed the spring and
relieve valve, no metal debris, cleaned it and reinstalled it: same results
Tonigth I am going to pump air through the valve relieve hole into the oil
system, after removing the oil filter and gauge: good or bad idea ?
> I am considering changing the oil: any logic on that ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jose

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Mon May 23 07:21:07 2011
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 09:21:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changing Questions
Message-ID: <SNT143-w5498FB6CED24FA7E7EC853D4720@phx.gbl>

The oil running out of the steer tube also happened to a fellow AHSTC member
when his AH 3000 was loaded onto a flat bed tow truck (inclined).  He did not
have his seats covered!

To solve the spin on oil filter spill problem I lay my AH on its right side
(passenger door) :)

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 08:42:25 +0100
From: John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: Editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changing Questions
Message-ID: <xKhqMlBh$g2NFwZG at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed

This may be of interest because it happened to me recently. I have high
hydraulically lifting ramps and lifted the front of the 100 very high to
work under the front.

When I looked underneath I could see oil dripping from the cotter pin
so assumed that engine oil was flowing from the sump, through the
Archimedes screw and down the rear of the backplate. I quickly lowered
the car a little and the dripping stopped after a while. Just as well
that the cotter pin was a loose fit as intended.

This is not the end of the story. When I came to look inside the car I
saw that steering gear oil had run back up the column and down the
steering wheel. Fortunately I had a seat cover temporarily fitted.

So be warned you cannot raise the front of a 100 beyond a certain point.

Regards

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 23 08:47:43 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 09:47:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] gluing panels
In-Reply-To: <70D0372C-2B89-4B87-A0F1-37A01F8DFD0B@verizon.net>
References: <70D0372C-2B89-4B87-A0F1-37A01F8DFD0B@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4DDA738F.2030603@justbrits.com>

<< Check with an auto paint supply house. >>

That is the single BEST answer to this question I have seen yet, Dan !!

THANKS !!!

Folks, there is a lot for a shop to consider BEFORE they recommend
a given product !!   What is good in Hong Kong, good in Chicago and
good in L.A. "might" NOT be good in Washington, D.C. !!!

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
     Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon May 23 08:57:15 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 15:57:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BBQ question. No Healey content whatsoever.
Message-ID: <003401cc1959$b617ab50$224701f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Sorry about this, but here goes anyway..........

I've got a gas powered BBQ (a Laguna from B&Q [a UK DIY chain]). It's a
fairly decent looking thing and pleasingly robust. However, it takes
ages/too long to warm up and, even then, it's not that great.

 

Over the gas bar, from which the gas diffuses(?) and burns, there is a metal
plate. Presumably this is to trap the heat/prevent it going straight up & to
distribute it. This plate is silver coloured. Wouldn't it be (much?)better
if it were black?

 

The idea of BBQs in Devon, where the westerlies bring the rain straight off
the ocean, always seems faintly risible to me but I'm committed in this
instance.

Thanks,

Simon

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon May 23 09:03:26 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 16:03:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Carb cap
Message-ID: <003901cc195a$920f9eb0$b62edc10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Hi,

A Healey question this time.

One of the three black plastic caps on my tricarb(!) keeps coming unscrewed.
That carb seems to be set right/same as the other two.... ie its mixture is
set per the book and it sounds the same through a length of hose as the
others. The car runs well, touch wood, with no unseemly banging and fizzing
from exhaust or intakes. No running on etcetc.

The carbs are HD6s, not HS4s, and they've been quite recently completely
refurbished.

What's going on?

Thanks,

Simon

From pieters at pt.lu  Mon May 23 09:15:22 2011
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 17:15:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Latest news:  Bn2 excessive oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <D6DB3177-B4E9-4907-A62A-EBA09538D450@yahoo.com>
References: <236CD2DB-5DA5-4F79-A208-A604354A2BA6@yahoo.com>
	<727252398.614860.1306071541303.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<sO8tduBWgU2NFw6H@jharper.demon.co.uk> <4DD9806E.2040606@bredband.net>
	<4DD9FC39.9040104@chello.nl>
	<D6DB3177-B4E9-4907-A62A-EBA09538D450@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9BE8FC4B-59CB-4AD9-BE24-7C1A0EF4C351@pt.lu>

I had an MGB motor years ago that suddenly had high oil pressure. One of the
cam bearings had spun in the block and it was blocking the oil flow. Even a
fully open relief valve wasn't letting enough oil escape. It eventually failed
as the oil was supposed to flow around a groove in this bearing and on to
lubricate other parts of the engine,
Pieter
On 23/05/2011, at 1:28 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote:

> Last night I changed the gauge: same results
> I removed the spring and relieve valve, no metal debris, cleaned it and
> reinstalled it: same results
> Tonigth I am going to pump air through the valve relieve hole into the oil
> system, after removing the oil filter and gauge: good or bad idea ?
> I am considering changing the oil: any logic on that ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jose
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On May 23, 2011, at 1:18 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Question is: was the gasket replaced just before the raise in oil
>> pressure occurred? If the gasket was not replaced this cannot be the
cause.
>> From all descriptions and try outs I can only conclude that the
>> overflow/pressure valve/spring in the oil pump is stuck
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
of
> coudesluijs.vcf]
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pieters at pt.lu

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon May 23 09:17:33 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 09:17:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BBQ question. No Healey content whatsoever.
In-Reply-To: <003401cc1959$b617ab50$224701f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <003401cc1959$b617ab50$224701f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <FFF4A35347784551AAD710ECF1915630@oscar>

Simon,
 Is it properly jetted for the fuel that you are using? Big difference
between natural gas or propane..
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 8:57 AM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] BBQ question. No Healey content whatsoever.

Sorry about this, but here goes anyway..........

I've got a gas powered BBQ (a Laguna from B&Q [a UK DIY chain]). It's a
fairly decent looking thing and pleasingly robust. However, it takes
ages/too long to warm up and, even then, it's not that great.

 

Over the gas bar, from which the gas diffuses(?) and burns, there is a metal
plate. Presumably this is to trap the heat/prevent it going straight up & to
distribute it. This plate is silver coloured. Wouldn't it be (much?)better
if it were black?

 

The idea of BBQs in Devon, where the westerlies bring the rain straight off
the ocean, always seems faintly risible to me but I'm committed in this
instance.

Thanks,

Simon
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon May 23 09:20:36 2011
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 15:20:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?oil_from_steering_tube=2E?=
Message-ID: <20110523152036.18227.qmail@server278.com>

unless the felt bushing is worn out, i would think it would stop the oil from getting on the seats.  what am i missing?  hjim

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon May 23 09:23:15 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 09:23:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Carb cap
In-Reply-To: <003901cc195a$920f9eb0$b62edc10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <003901cc195a$920f9eb0$b62edc10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <8A5B16B0D1764C2885CA024C7BC3881B@oscar>

Believe it or not, there are different size damper "barrels" for a given
application. I have found that these often are replaced over time and give
headaches for fine tuning. Now, whether or not that has any effect on the
cap unscrewing is over my pay grade and data bank. I'd probably remove the
fiber washer and see if that gives a couple more threads to secure it.. the
cap is vented anyway..
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 9:03 AM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Carb cap

Hi,

A Healey question this time.

One of the three black plastic caps on my tricarb(!) keeps coming unscrewed.
That carb seems to be set right/same as the other two.... ie its mixture is
set per the book and it sounds the same through a length of hose as the
others. The car runs well, touch wood, with no unseemly banging and fizzing
from exhaust or intakes. No running on etcetc.

The carbs are HD6s, not HS4s, and they've been quite recently completely
refurbished.

What's going on?

Thanks,

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Mon May 23 09:28:21 2011
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 11:28:21 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Carb cap
Message-ID: <68e9e.895e5bd.3b0bd715@aol.com>

Hi Simon-
 
FWIW Try the simplest thing first, just switch the problem cap &  damper 
with either one of the other two. If this still occurs with  that particular 
cap & damper the threads may be slightly stripper on  that one.  
(The replacement brass cap & damper assembly is about $33 ea. and the  
plastic cap & damper assembly is about $22 each.)
 
 
 
In a message dated 5/23/2011 11:03:43 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk writes:

One of  the three black plastic caps on my tri carb(!) keeps coming  
unscrewed.

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon May 23 09:32:10 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 01:32:10 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BBQ question. No Healey content whatsoever.
In-Reply-To: <003401cc1959$b617ab50$224701f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <003401cc1959$b617ab50$224701f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <D3810D3B-ED99-4AD9-B2FA-A8E46F1B5483@gmail.com>

Geez.
Do we Aussies have to explain everything?
Ok.
First. The BBQ sounds like a weber.
Fortunately, I have 3 of those on my Healey, and a bloke with the same  
surname (called Mark) is driving an F1 Red Bull.
But if you saw Mark go from pole to 4th behind a Ferrari last night,  
then you'd probably disown him as quick as I have....
Back to your BBQ Simon...
What chokes are you running???
Seriously.
A new BBQ takes a while to come up to temperature.  The heating /  
cooling effect will blacken most BBQ parts.
If it's a weber closed lid BBQ, use rice bran oil, not olive oil.  
Olive oil burns at too low a temp. Weber BBQ's need to run at around  
430 or so.
45DC0E's are a different story.
If you need some recipes, let me know.
And the rest of you blokes, who don't run good redine oil in your  
trans....  Don't even go here!! Your BBQ will drip oil Forever once  
you use exotic BBQ oil blends like rice bran or Caritino (canola and  
red palm)
;-)
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/05/2011, at 12:57 AM, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk 
 > wrote:

> Sorry about this, but here goes anyway..........
>
> I've got a gas powered BBQ (a Laguna from B&Q [a UK DIY chain]).  
> It's a
> fairly decent looking thing and pleasingly robust. However, it takes
> ages/too long to warm up and, even then, it's not that great.
>
>
>
> Over the gas bar, from which the gas diffuses(?) and burns, there is  
> a metal
> plate. Presumably this is to trap the heat/prevent it going straight  
> up & to
> distribute it. This plate is silver coloured. Wouldn't it be (much?) 
> better
> if it were black?
>
>
>
> The idea of BBQs in Devon, where the westerlies bring the rain  
> straight off
> the ocean, always seems faintly risible to me but I'm committed in  
> this
> instance.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 23 10:03:41 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 09:03:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Changing oil and filter
In-Reply-To: <ac47.3f660167.3b0b4a28@aol.com>
References: <ac47.3f660167.3b0b4a28@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C76F92AD-D4A8-49D5-B691-F944B15F780F@sbcglobal.net>

Gary, I would not consider my self as a "old school mechanic"   
directly out of school in 1976 I started attended all the factory  
dealer training classes. I have been specializing in British Cars my  
entire life and was trained by one of the most respected Healey  
people in both clubs.

In the time it takes to re install the plugs and start the car most  
of the oil the you put into the oil filter has run back down into the  
engine and you have the same situation as the filter that I install  
with no oil.

When you start the engine with a new oil filter. The oil galleries,  
rocker shaft, oil pump bearings and crankshaft are still filled with  
oil. In the time it takes to re fill the filter and bring the engine  
to pressure is no longer that it takes to get oil pressure after the  
car has been sitting in the garage for a couple of weeks. So why not  
remove the plugs and crank the engine over every time you want to  
take the car out for a drive.

My question to you is how much schooling and profesional training in  
the automotive repairs have you had.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 22, 2011, at 10:27 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

If you really like to sit there, as many old school mechanics often  
do, and
listen to the engine run dry, with the oil pressure at zero, for the  
time
it takes to get most of a quart of oil into the filter and then  
through it
into the rest of the engine, go ahead. Or you can be ultra careful  
and first
fill the filter before attaching it (the trick is to remove the entire
fixture off the side of the engine, change the filter, make sure  
everything is
neatly sealed up again, and then reattach the filter, canister, and  
fitting to
the side of the engine. Then you can remove the spark plugs
>
> Or you can fill the filter canister with oil, attach it to the engine,
> remove the spark plugs and turn over the engine on the starter  
> until you get oil
> pressure on the gauge, then put the spark plugs in and fire it up,
> confident that when the engine first fires, new oil will have  
> permeated the entire
> engine.
> That's the procedure I follow, and I firmly believe it increases  
> engine
> life.
> YMMV.
> G.
> _

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon May 23 10:20:43 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 12:20:43 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Procedures for changing oil
Message-ID: <4ad57.76e7f993.3b0be35b@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/23/11 9:05:41 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


>
> My question to you is how much schooling and profesional training in 
> the automotive repairs have you had.
>

Wouldn't want this to become a personal argument, but I've been driving and
maintaining British cars as well as a variety of other makes since 1959,
and have been a professional journalist and author, with a major focus in
automobile restoration and repair since 1996. In that time I have drawn on the
extensive array of information available in published and online form, and
have consulted with a wide range of recognized specialists in the field, so I
believe that my opinions, when expressed, are sound. When maintaining
classic automobiles with the level of mechanical technology represented on
them, I
recognize that there are a variety of different hands-on methods that will
work in many specific situations, and believe that people should be aware of
that range when deciding how to solve a problem or carry out a procedure.

Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon May 23 10:24:48 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 12:24:48 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Changing oil and filter
Message-ID: <4b111.42b9a8d0.3b0be450@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/23/11 9:21:33 AM, eyera3 at gmail.com writes:


> 
> e used to just pull the coil wire so it would not fire, but would spin up 
> pressure. Thr reattach a fire it off. Or not bother and rezlise as David 
> says, there is still plenty of oil left in the engine and just start the car
>  Ira Erbs
> 

Which is a third method used by many established mechanics and a not 
unreasonable compromise for a well-used engine. BUT, keep in mind that the 
fill-and-start procedures should NOT be used on a newly rebuilt engine, which would 
NOT have any oil residue in the upper part of the engine, or protective 
materials impregnated in the surface of the metal.

Gary

From 55healey at comcast.net  Mon May 23 10:41:13 2011
From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 09:41:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] '67 Square Sprite parts car
Message-ID: <FBC1FD3F-79DE-426A-A0FA-A63C8023178E@comcast.net>

Hi List,

I got a call from a guy who wants to sell a '67 Sprite for parts.  His  
price is negotiable (low) and he just wants to move everything out.
The doors are off, it has no bonnet, grill or windshield but it does  
have a hardtop and luggage rack. The metal looks OK.
Rebuild into an electric car?
There is an engine in there, all of the plastic parts seem to be  
gone.  I have seen worse.
Seattle area.
Write and I will forward pictures and phone number if you are  
interested.

Rob

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon May 23 10:50:31 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 09:50:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Changing oil and filter
In-Reply-To: <4b111.42b9a8d0.3b0be450@aol.com>
References: <4b111.42b9a8d0.3b0be450@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTin4gwvo3XqUBtZ8tU59o6z0fB0kCw@mail.gmail.com>

Correct, or for an engine sitting a long time

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 23, 2011 9:32 AM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 5/23/11 9:21:33 AM, eyera3 at gmail.com writes:
>
>
>>
>> e used to just pull the coil wire so it would not fire, but would spin up

>> pressure. Thr reattach a fire it off. Or not bother and rezlise as David
>> says, there is still plenty of oil left in the engine and just start the
car
>> Ira Erbs
>>
>
> Which is a third method used by many established mechanics and a not
> unreasonable compromise for a well-used engine. BUT, keep in mind that the

> fill-and-start procedures should NOT be used on a newly rebuilt engine,
which would
> NOT have any oil residue in the upper part of the engine, or protective
> materials impregnated in the surface of the metal.
>
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon May 23 11:06:16 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 13:06:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System
In-Reply-To: <9F0B0491C4B74327A69FCE9338505F3A@KagsLaptop>
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
	<9F0B0491C4B74327A69FCE9338505F3A@KagsLaptop>
Message-ID: <003a01cc196b$ba3e4560$2ebad020$@rr.com>

Earl, my understanding is slightly different from yours.  When the coolant
is cold, the sleeve is down and the bypass passage to the head is open.  The
thermostat itself is also closed and the coolant does not enter the
radiator, but circulates back to the head through the bypass.  As the
coolant heats up and the thermostat opens, the sleeve rises and blocks the
bypass to the head.  When the thermostat is fully open and the sleeve is
fully up, the bypass is blocked and all of the coolant now has to go through
the radiator.  In other words, the purpose of the sleeve is not to speed up
the warm-up (which is the function of the thermostat itself), but to block
the bypass when the coolant is up to running temperature.

As alert listers will remember, last summer I reported problems with keeping
my engine cool in spite of all kinds of approaches to cool it down.  I
bought a 190-deg. sleeved thermostat (AC NOS, made in UK) from lister Kees
Oudesluys.  This did have the effect of lowering engine running
temperatures, but not as much as I had hoped.  It was only when I had my
stock radiator re-cored with a modern core with larger capacity that my
problem was solved for good.  My BJ8 now stabilizes at 190-deg. in hot
weather, even when stuck in traffic, which is what I think it should do.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Earl Kagna
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 4:17 PM
To: Schneider Mark; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Mark:

You're close.  As I understand it, the bypass function on the engine is 
designed to block (mostly) the bypass hole to the head with the sleeve on 
the thermostat in order to speed up the warm-up.  This is what I learned 
when experimenting with sleeving regular thermostats years ago.  I 
understand that reproductions of the original Smiths (sleeved) thermostat 
are now available, but I have not checked.

In other words, it's no big deal to run a current (cheap) thermostat - we've

all been doing it for a long time.

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Mon May 23 11:30:18 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 13:30:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 over charging
Message-ID: <8CDE7863822907D-1394-249D3@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>

Need help as to what's going on with the electrical system in my BN7.  The
ammeter (which I installed some years ago) is showing a charging of 30+ amps.
Turning on the headlights helps a bit...got me home.
The battery is fully charged and starts the car with no problem.  The voltage
regulator is working properly.  What else could be going on?
Thanks in advance.

Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 23 11:51:47 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 19:51:47 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Changing oil and filter
In-Reply-To: <4b111.42b9a8d0.3b0be450@aol.com>
References: <4b111.42b9a8d0.3b0be450@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DDA9EB3.4080704@chello.nl>

If properly rebuild, the engine would be protected by prelube, heavy 
oil, molybdenum/graphite grease or similar in the bearings, cams, 
followers, cylinder walls, valves etc.  I have always used graphite 
grease when rebuilding my engines. Even the oil pump will be filled with 
grease to prime it.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 23 12:34:14 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 18:34:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 over charging
In-Reply-To: <8CDE7863822907D-1394-249D3@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <905225093.665966.1306175654432.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Ned, 

How do you know the VR is working properly? AFAIK, an A-H regulator controls both voltage and current. That's why there's three coil/points sets: one controls charging voltage, one limits output current and the third controls the battery cutoff; i.e. the light on the tach. You shouldn't see more than about 13.8V on the system when the dynamo/engine is running at 1K RPM or more. 

Sure sounds like the current-limiting function is not working in your VR. Be careful--if you're overcharging the battery you'll get hydrogen outgassing (30A is not healthy for your wiring, either). 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 




Need help as to what's going on with the electrical system in my BN7. The 
ammeter (which I installed some years ago) is showing a charging of 30+ amps. 
Turning on the headlights helps a bit...got me home. 
The battery is fully charged and starts the car with no problem. The voltage 
regulator is working properly. What else could be going on? 
Thanks in advance. 

Ned Paulsen 
Webster, NY 
_______________________________________________ 

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Mon May 23 12:38:47 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 14:38:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 over charging
In-Reply-To: <905225093.665966.1306175654432.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <905225093.665966.1306175654432.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CDE78FC97312B9-1394-274B1@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks a lot for the reply, Bob.  My regulator is the two coil type and I
replaced it with another and the amperage was still reading near 30.  I
replaced the ammeter with another I had and that still read high.  There are
about 13 1/2 volts at the battery at 1500 RPM.  Just over 12 volts at the
battery with the engine off.

Ned










-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: npaul72464 <npaul72464 at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 23, 2011 2:34 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 over charging


Ned,

How do you know the VR is working properly?  AFAIK, an A-H regulator controls
both voltage and current.  That's why there's three coil/points sets: one
controls charging voltage, one limits output current and the third controls
the battery cutoff; i.e. the light on the tach.   You shouldn't see more than
about 13.8V on the system when the dynamo/engine is running at 1K RPM or
more.

Sure sounds like the current-limiting function is not working in your VR.  Be
careful--if you're overcharging the battery you'll get hydrogen outgassing
(30A is not healthy for your wiring, either).

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA




Need help as to what's going on with the electrical system in my BN7.  The
ammeter (which I installed some years ago) is showing a charging of 30+ amps.
Turning on the headlights helps a bit...got me home.
The battery is fully charged and starts the car with no problem.  The voltage
regulator is working properly.  What else could be going on?
Thanks in advance.

Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY
_______________________________________________

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon May 23 12:41:59 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 11:41:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 over charging
In-Reply-To: <8CDE7863822907D-1394-249D3@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CDE7863822907D-1394-249D3@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimpHdd8s7HY3pUMUKZXQAC5qd2G7w@mail.gmail.com>

> The battery is fully charged



> The voltage regulator is working properly.


One of these two statements is incorrect.
I would have the battery tested, and if it tests OK, I would go after the
voltage regulator.
Rick

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 23 13:01:22 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 19:01:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 over charging
In-Reply-To: <8CDE78FC97312B9-1394-274B1@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <492961888.667796.1306177282171.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Once again my ignorance of the 'mid-year' Healeys makes its existence known (I think my BJ8 has a three-coil VR but, actually, it's been a while since I opened it up). 

13.5V at the battery seems a bit low, which makes sense given the large current draw. My VR knowledge isn't immense; but I did study them some when my Dad's fire engine's single coil VR wasn't working properly. That engine has some circuitry in the generator to limit current output. 

My guess is the generator has a problem. There may be some diagnostic tests in the manual, or online somewhere (maybe disconnecting the 'F' lead momentarily, but research this first lest you let the smoke out). There should be something to limit current; holding a constant voltage won't limit the generator output if there's excessive current draw. 

Is your ammeter wired in series with the generator and the battery? It's conceivable the battery has an internal short. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



Than ks a lot for the reply, Bob. My regulator is the two coil type and I replaced it with another and the amperage was still reading near 30. I replaced the ammeter with another I had and that still read high. There are about 13 1/2 volts at the battery at 1500 RPM. Just over 12 volts at the battery with the engine off. 

Ned 







Ned, 

How do you know the VR is working properly? AFAIK, an A-H regulator controls both voltage and current. That's why there's three coil/points sets: one controls charging voltage, one limits output current and the third controls the battery cutoff; i.e. the light on the tach. You shouldn't see more than about 13.8V on the system when the dynamo/engine is running at 1K RPM or more. 

Sure sounds like the current-limiting function is not working in your VR. Be careful--if you're overcharging the battery you'll get hydrogen outgassing (30A is not healthy for your wiring, either). 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon May 23 13:18:09 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 20:18:09 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System
In-Reply-To: <003a01cc196b$ba3e4560$2ebad020$@rr.com>
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
	<9F0B0491C4B74327A69FCE9338505F3A@KagsLaptop>
	<003a01cc196b$ba3e4560$2ebad020$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000901cc197e$2790da80$76b28f80$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Hi Steve, Earl, everyone,
Yes, this is very much how I see it, ie I think Steve is right. I think John
put an article of mine on this very topic on his site? Did you John? You're
very welcome & nobody has to read it!
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: 23 May 2011 18:06
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Earl, my understanding is slightly different from yours.  When the coolant
is cold, the sleeve is down and the bypass passage to the head is open.  The
thermostat itself is also closed and the coolant does not enter the
radiator, but circulates back to the head through the bypass.  As the
coolant heats up and the thermostat opens, the sleeve rises and blocks the
bypass to the head.  When the thermostat is fully open and the sleeve is
fully up, the bypass is blocked and all of the coolant now has to go through
the radiator.  In other words, the purpose of the sleeve is not to speed up
the warm-up (which is the function of the thermostat itself), but to block
the bypass when the coolant is up to running temperature.

As alert listers will remember, last summer I reported problems with keeping
my engine cool in spite of all kinds of approaches to cool it down.  I
bought a 190-deg. sleeved thermostat (AC NOS, made in UK) from lister Kees
Oudesluys.  This did have the effect of lowering engine running
temperatures, but not as much as I had hoped.  It was only when I had my
stock radiator re-cored with a modern core with larger capacity that my
problem was solved for good.  My BJ8 now stabilizes at 190-deg. in hot
weather, even when stuck in traffic, which is what I think it should do.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Earl Kagna
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 4:17 PM
To: Schneider Mark; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Mark:

You're close.  As I understand it, the bypass function on the engine is 
designed to block (mostly) the bypass hole to the head with the sleeve on 
the thermostat in order to speed up the warm-up.  This is what I learned 
when experimenting with sleeving regular thermostats years ago.  I 
understand that reproductions of the original Smiths (sleeved) thermostat 
are now available, but I have not checked.

In other words, it's no big deal to run a current (cheap) thermostat - we've

all been doing it for a long time.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 23 13:51:49 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 21:51:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 over charging
In-Reply-To: <8CDE78FC97312B9-1394-274B1@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
References: <905225093.665966.1306175654432.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CDE78FC97312B9-1394-274B1@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DDABAD5.5010203@chello.nl>

First of all I would have the battery checked, it most certainly is the 
easiest part.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Mon May 23 13:51:20 2011
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 15:51:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AH hardtop for sale
Message-ID: <SNT143-w56AC0ED12A56F95BCD9360D4720@phx.gbl>

Hello, John.  Would I be able to list this on your website?

Factory hardtop for sale.  These are getting hard to find.  This is a 1959
hardtop that fits all side curtain/ four seater 100-6 and 3000's.  It is best
described as a survivor- being stored in garage rafters for 40 years!
Complete.  All original seals, hardware, and glass.  The glass is very clear
and very usable.  Some small imperfections, but good overall.  Appears to have
original Colorado red lacquer paint (aged with some scratches, and chips- no
stress cracks though).  Headliner is all there with some aged appearance.

Would consider taking a $500 non-fundable deposit.  This means when the $500
is in my hands, the hardtop is yours when you pay the balance.  If you don't
pay the balance and pick up, you don't get the $500 back.  Until a deposit/ or
cash is in my hands, first come first serve.   I had a guy try and play games
with me on a car I sold, so I am just making sure this is clear (its too bad,
I have to do that).

Located in Lancaster, PA.  Pick up only.

$2,100.00

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 23 14:10:18 2011
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 13:10:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 over charging
In-Reply-To: <492961888.667796.1306177282171.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <8CDE78FC97312B9-1394-274B1@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
	<492961888.667796.1306177282171.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <96flt6tg5pch2bpc424dqhptuobfd9o8kn@4ax.com>

I don't think it is possible to overcharge a car battery at 13.5
volts.  If I remember right, 13.8 is the nominal charging voltage at
full charge.  So at 13.5 volts the battery is not likely to be
accepting a high current charge forever, or even being fully charged.
Therefore, if the current is about 30 amps,  the current must be going
somewhere else, like a short or crummy connection somewhere.  I'd look
for something that is hot that shouldn't be hot.

It isn't clear to me from what you have said, Ned.  At, say, 3000 rpm
is the voltage still 13.5?  Or has it gone bonkers at 14 to 15 volts?
If the voltage never goes over 13.5, then the battery is not being
overcharged.

-Roland


On Mon, 23 May 2011 19:01:22 +0000 (UTC), Bob wrote:

::Once again my ignorance of the 'mid-year' Healeys makes its existence known
(I think my BJ8 has a three-coil VR but, actually, it's been a while since I
opened it up).
::
::13.5V at the battery seems a bit low, which makes sense given the large
current draw. My VR knowledge isn't immense; but I did study them some when my
Dad's fire engine's single coil VR wasn't working properly. That engine has
some circuitry in the generator to limit current output.
::
::My guess is the generator has a problem. There may be some diagnostic tests
in the manual, or online somewhere (maybe disconnecting the 'F' lead
momentarily, but research this first lest you let the smoke out). There should
be something to limit current; holding a constant voltage won't limit the
generator output if there's excessive current draw.
::
::Is your ammeter wired in series with the generator and the battery? It's
conceivable the battery has an internal short.
::
::Bob
::
::--------------------------------
::Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
::
::
::
::Than ks a lot for the reply, Bob. My regulator is the two coil type and I
replaced it with another and the amperage was still reading near 30. I
replaced the ammeter with another I had and that still read high. There are
about 13 1/2 volts at the battery at 1500 RPM. Just over 12 volts at the
battery with the engine off.
::
::Ned
::

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon May 23 14:15:54 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 16:15:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AH hardtop for sale
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-w56AC0ED12A56F95BCD9360D4720@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-w56AC0ED12A56F95BCD9360D4720@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <049d01cc1986$3902ab10$ab080130$@verizon.net>

Posted on the "For Sale" Page

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of S and T Miller
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 3:51 PM
To: john at healey6.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] AH hardtop for sale

Hello, John.  Would I be able to list this on your website?

Factory hardtop for sale.  These are getting hard to find.  This is a 1959
hardtop that fits all side curtain/ four seater 100-6 and 3000's.  It is
best described as a survivor- being stored in garage rafters for 40 years!
Complete.  All original seals, hardware, and glass.  The glass is very clear
and very usable.  Some small imperfections, but good overall.  Appears to
have original Colorado red lacquer paint (aged with some scratches, and
chips- no stress cracks though).  Headliner is all there with some aged
appearance.

Would consider taking a $500 non-fundable deposit.  This means when the $500
is in my hands, the hardtop is yours when you pay the balance.  If you don't
pay the balance and pick up, you don't get the $500 back.  Until a deposit/
or
cash is in my hands, first come first serve.   I had a guy try and play
games
with me on a car I sold, so I am just making sure this is clear (its too
bad, I have to do that).

Located in Lancaster, PA.  Pick up only.

$2,100.00

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon May 23 14:22:37 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 16:22:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ8 Cooling System
References: <130471A9-6340-4394-A7D4-63BBAB51DD41@comcast.net>
	<9F0B0491C4B74327A69FCE9338505F3A@KagsLaptop>
	<003a01cc196b$ba3e4560$2ebad020$@rr.com>
	<000901cc197e$2790da80$76b28f80$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <04a501cc1987$290efff0$7b2cffd0$@verizon.net>

It is in the Engine section of the Technical page. An article entitled
Thermostat Functions written by Simon.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 3:18 PM
To: 'BJ8 Healeys'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Hi Steve, Earl, everyone,
Yes, this is very much how I see it, ie I think Steve is right. I think John
put an article of mine on this very topic on his site? Did you John? You're
very welcome & nobody has to read it!
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: 23 May 2011 18:06
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Earl, my understanding is slightly different from yours.  When the coolant
is cold, the sleeve is down and the bypass passage to the head is open.  The
thermostat itself is also closed and the coolant does not enter the
radiator, but circulates back to the head through the bypass.  As the
coolant heats up and the thermostat opens, the sleeve rises and blocks the
bypass to the head.  When the thermostat is fully open and the sleeve is
fully up, the bypass is blocked and all of the coolant now has to go through
the radiator.  In other words, the purpose of the sleeve is not to speed up
the warm-up (which is the function of the thermostat itself), but to block
the bypass when the coolant is up to running temperature.

As alert listers will remember, last summer I reported problems with keeping
my engine cool in spite of all kinds of approaches to cool it down.  I
bought a 190-deg. sleeved thermostat (AC NOS, made in UK) from lister Kees
Oudesluys.  This did have the effect of lowering engine running
temperatures, but not as much as I had hoped.  It was only when I had my
stock radiator re-cored with a modern core with larger capacity that my
problem was solved for good.  My BJ8 now stabilizes at 190-deg. in hot
weather, even when stuck in traffic, which is what I think it should do.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

Mark:

From kags at shaw.ca  Mon May 23 14:25:24 2011
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 13:25:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  BJ8 Cooling System
Message-ID: <B406EA46B8334FC4A5600A9386E90ECE@KagsLaptop>

Steve - of course, you are correct.  Thank goodness another Healey 'guru'
stepped up.  In any case, I believe that the conclusion is pretty much the
same:  it's okay to use an el-cheapo thermostat, but make sure that the
radiator is working well - I long ago modified mine (the BJ8) with a 4 row
core.  If anything, the car overcools slightly - in cool weather, it tends
to run below the 190 (sleeved) 'stat setting.  Maybe things will be
different when I finally fire up the rebuilt engine - soon, soon!

As for Simon's BBQ, I recommend synthetic propane - try RedLine.  Real good
shifting feel, but it's expensive.  (I love starting another 'thing' on this
list).  Don't worry Simon, the heat diffuser will get really black really
quickly.  If I see smoke here in British Columbia, I'll let you know.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Simon Lachlan
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 12:18 PM
To: 'BJ8 Healeys' ; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Hi Steve, Earl, everyone,
Yes, this is very much how I see it, ie I think Steve is right. I think John
put an article of mine on this very topic on his site? Did you John? You're
very welcome & nobody has to read it!
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: 23 May 2011 18:06
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Cooling System

Earl, my understanding is slightly different from yours.  When the coolant
is cold, the sleeve is down and the bypass passage to the head is open.  The
thermostat itself is also closed and the coolant does not enter the
radiator, but circulates back to the head through the bypass.  As the
coolant heats up and the thermostat opens, the sleeve rises and blocks the
bypass to the head.  When the thermostat is fully open and the sleeve is
fully up, the bypass is blocked and all of the coolant now has to go through
the radiator.  In other words, the purpose of the sleeve is not to speed up
the warm-up (which is the function of the thermostat itself), but to block
the bypass when the coolant is up to running temperature.

As alert listers will remember, last summer I reported problems with keeping
my engine cool in spite of all kinds of approaches to cool it down.  I
bought a 190-deg. sleeved thermostat (AC NOS, made in UK) from lister Kees
Oudesluys.  This did have the effect of lowering engine running
temperatures, but not as much as I had hoped.  It was only when I had my
stock radiator re-cored with a modern core with larger capacity that my
problem was solved for good.  My BJ8 now stabilizes at 190-deg. in hot
weather, even when stuck in traffic, which is what I think it should do.

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon May 23 14:30:53 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 16:30:53 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
Message-ID: <2b2cd.79cd75c0.3b0c1dfd@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/23/11 11:46:09 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> If properly rebuild, the engine would be protected by prelube, heavy
> oil, molybdenum/graphite grease or similar in the bearings, cams,
> followers, cylinder walls, valves etc.  I have always used graphite
> grease when rebuilding my engines. Even the oil pump will be filled with
> grease to prime it.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
All of the above, hopefully, is true. However, I would still take steps to
make sure that the break-in oil is fully circulated through the filter and
the entire engine before actually firing up the engine, by running the
starter (at least with the coil wire off, and preferably with spark plugs out)
until I had a good oil pressure reading on the gauge. Don't forget, it is the
interaction between the molybdenum grease on the cam and the ZDDP in the
break-in oil that does the magic micro-machining of the cam surfaces during
the
first 10-15 minutes that the new engine is running.
Then, of course, after that first run-in session, you'd change out the oil
and oil filter for a second dose of break-in oil and clean oil filter for
the remainder of the break-in period.

best
Gary

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Mon May 23 16:17:49 2011
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 15:17:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal
Message-ID: <328865.4539.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

List,
I'm about to grease the front wheel bearings on my BT7. I would like to
have a 
fresh set of Oil Seals available since I could damage the current ones
during 
the extraction of said oil seals. Does anyone know of a readily
available oil 
seal at NAPA or other local parts joint that would be suitable
for the BT7.  The 
normal LBC suppliers have minimum orders and I'm not sure
I'd meet them and I'd 
also like to do this in the next couple of days rather
than wait for seals from 
California.

TIA 
Bob

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon May 23 16:35:28 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 06:35:28 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal
In-Reply-To: <328865.4539.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <328865.4539.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikX4rwKJZdgwx9AfxwoeGNQg0=VQw@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

Just take your old seal out to the car parts shop, they'll be able to
match it off the shelf.  It's a common size available in any decent
car parts place.

Alan


On 5/24/11, Bob Brown <blkbt7 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> List,
> I'm about to grease the front wheel bearings on my BT7. I would like to
> have a
> fresh set of Oil Seals available since I could damage the current ones
> during
> the extraction of said oil seals. Does anyone know of a readily
> available oil
> seal at NAPA or other local parts joint that would be suitable
> for the BT7.  The
> normal LBC suppliers have minimum orders and I'm not sure
> I'd meet them and I'd
> also like to do this in the next couple of days rather
> than wait for seals from
> California.
>
> TIA
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon May 23 16:48:01 2011
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 18:48:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal
In-Reply-To: <328865.4539.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <328865.4539.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DDAE421.7070107@earthlink.net>

Bob,

Here are the dimensions and some part numbers to cross reference:

2 1/16" ID
2 7/8" OD
3/8" thick

Burtonwood:	POS-206-287-12
NAK: 		SC 2.875 2.062 0.375
unknown: 	28720637.R
unknown: 	PR5145
GACO: 		MIS22


Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 05/23/2011 06:17 PM, Bob Brown wrote:
> List,
> I'm about to grease the front wheel bearings on my BT7. I would like to
> have a
> fresh set of Oil Seals available since I could damage the current ones
> during
> the extraction of said oil seals. Does anyone know of a readily
> available oil
> seal at NAPA or other local parts joint that would be suitable
> for the BT7.  The
> normal LBC suppliers have minimum orders and I'm not sure
> I'd meet them and I'd
> also like to do this in the next couple of days rather
> than wait for seals from
> California.
>
> TIA
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 23 16:58:48 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 15:58:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Changing oil and filter
In-Reply-To: <4b111.42b9a8d0.3b0be450@aol.com>
References: <4b111.42b9a8d0.3b0be450@aol.com>
Message-ID: <566D6E57-AED4-4379-97AF-2A5959525933@sbcglobal.net>

With the idea of not filling a oil filter with oil prior to  
installation being Old School. The I would assume that BMW, Ford,  
Range Rover and Mini are Old School. On a 2005 Range Rover there is a  
canister filter, Ford F350 diesel a canister filter, 02 Mini Cooper a  
canister that is imposible to get to. In all these major  
manufactureres there is a canister type filter and I have not seen  
any instructions in the trade that said to pre fill the filter prior  
to starting the engine.

We have just done an oil change on a BJ8 and did not fill the filter  
first. I monitored the gauge when started and the pressure started to  
come up is just a few seconds of starting. No more than if the car  
had sat for a couple of weeks not running.

However on a new engine we always pressurize the system first with a  
pre oiler before starting the engine.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 23, 2011, at 9:24 AM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/23/11 9:21:33 AM, eyera3 at gmail.com writes:
>
>
>>
>> e used to just pull the coil wire so it would not fire, but would  
>> spin up
>> pressure. Thr reattach a fire it off. Or not bother and rezlise as  
>> David
>> says, there is still plenty of oil left in the engine and just  
>> start the car
>>  Ira Erbs
>>
>
> Which is a third method used by many established mechanics and a not
> unreasonable compromise for a well-used engine. BUT, keep in mind  
> that the
> fill-and-start procedures should NOT be used on a newly rebuilt  
> engine, which would
> NOT have any oil residue in the upper part of the engine, or  
> protective
> materials impregnated in the surface of the metal.
>
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Mon May 23 17:13:12 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 16:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changing Questions
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-w5498FB6CED24FA7E7EC853D4720@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <807860.38988.qm@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

You must have bought a used lift from the Green Hornet?

--- On Mon, 5/23/11,
S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> From: S and T Miller
<stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changing Questions
> To:
ah at jharper.demon.co.uk, healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, May 23, 2011,
9:21 AM
> The oil running out of the steer tube
> also happened to a fellow
AHSTC member
> when his AH 3000 was loaded onto a flat bed tow truck
>
(inclined).  He did not
> have his seats covered!
> 
> To solve the spin on
oil filter spill problem I lay my AH
> on its right side
> (passenger door) :)
> 
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
> 
> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
> 
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
> 
> 1964 MGB 40841
> 
> 1960 Austin
Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
> 
> "Always drive them, but remember each
drive in an antique
> car is a test
> drive."
> 
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon,
23 May 2011 08:42:25 +0100
> From: John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk>
> To:
Editorgary at aol.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil
Changing Questions
> Message-ID: <xKhqMlBh$g2NFwZG at jharper.demon.co.uk>
>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed
> 
> This may be of
interest because it happened to me recently.
> I have high
> hydraulically
lifting ramps and lifted the front of the 100
> very high to
> work under the
front.
> 
> When I looked underneath I could see oil dripping from the
>
cotter pin
> so assumed that engine oil was flowing from the sump,
> through
the
> Archimedes screw and down the rear of the backplate. I
> quickly lowered
> the car a little and the dripping stopped after a while.
> Just as well
>
that the cotter pin was a loose fit as intended.
> 
> This is not the end of
the story. When I came to look
> inside the car I
> saw that steering gear oil
had run back up the column and
> down the
> steering wheel. Fortunately I had
a seat cover temporarily
> fitted.
> 
> So be warned you cannot raise the
front of a 100 beyond a
> certain point.
> 
> Regards
>
_______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 23 17:13:48 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 23:13:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal
In-Reply-To: <4DDAE421.7070107@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1574937974.681614.1306192428131.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: " Burtonwood: POS-206-287-12" 


Not sure I'd buy a part labeled 'pos' 


Bob 



-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net> 
To: "Bob Brown" <blkbt7 at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 3:48:01 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal 

Bob, 

Here are the dimensions and some part numbers to cross reference: 

2 1/16" ID 
2 7/8" OD 
3/8" thick 

Burtonwood: POS-206-287-12 
NAK: SC 2.875 2.062 0.375 
unknown: 28720637.R 
unknown: PR5145 
GACO: MIS22 


Cheers, 

Bob Haskell 
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar 
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php 

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Mon May 23 17:17:33 2011
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 19:17:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal
In-Reply-To: <328865.4539.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <328865.4539.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CDE7B6BAF2BFA6-D40-65F3@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>

Bob,
I have an old SKF catalog that indicates P/N OS550085 for the grease seal for
'59-66 3000 MK1, MK2, MK3.
Hope this helps.

Larry





-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Brown <blkbt7 at yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 23, 2011 6:18 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal


List,
'm about to grease the front wheel bearings on my BT7. I would like to
ave a
resh set of Oil Seals available since I could damage the current ones
uring
he extraction of said oil seals. Does anyone know of a readily
vailable oil
eal at NAPA or other local parts joint that would be suitable
or the BT7.  The
ormal LBC suppliers have minimum orders and I'm not sure
'd meet them and I'd
lso like to do this in the next couple of days rather
han wait for seals from
alifornia.
TIA
ob
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Mon May 23 17:25:33 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 16:25:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BBQ question. No Healey content whatsoever.
In-Reply-To: <FFF4A35347784551AAD710ECF1915630@oscar>
Message-ID: <581079.69032.qm@web65901.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

If it is a Webber and like mine, the gauge has a limiter which limits the
amount of gas that flows if it senses no back pressure when you open the tank
valve.  It's a safety thing. It happens when you open the tank valve and the
burner valves are open.

To reset the valve, remove the tank, as if replacing
it, open then close the burner valves. Replace the tank with the burner valves
closed. From then on, open the tank valve before the burner valves.

If it's
not a Webber and not link mine, well never mind.

Greg

--- On Mon, 5/23/11,
Dave Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:

> From: Dave Porter
<frogeye at porterscustom.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BBQ question. No Healey
content whatsoever.
> To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>,
"'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, May 23, 2011, 11:17
AM
> Simon,
>  Is it properly jetted for the fuel that you are using? Big
>
difference
> between natural gas or propane..
> Dave
> 
>
frogeye at porterscustom.com
> 
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM
USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
> 
>
cars:
>  www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
> gallery:
>
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun
> facts-my world
> 
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
> Sent:
Monday, May 23, 2011 8:57 AM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: [Healeys] BBQ
question. No Healey content
> whatsoever.
> 
> Sorry about this, but here goes
anyway..........
> 
> I've got a gas powered BBQ (a Laguna from B&Q [a UK DIY
> chain]). It's a
> fairly decent looking thing and pleasingly robust.
However,
> it takes
> ages/too long to warm up and, even then, it's not that
>
great.
> 
>  
> 
> Over the gas bar, from which the gas diffuses(?) and burns,
> there is a metal
> plate. Presumably this is to trap the heat/prevent it
going
> straight up & to
> distribute it. This plate is silver coloured.
Wouldn't it
> be (much?)better
> if it were black?
> 
>  
> 
> The idea of
BBQs in Devon, where the westerlies bring the
> rain straight off
> the ocean,
always seems faintly risible to me but I'm
> committed in this
> instance.
>
> Thanks,
> 
> Simon

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon May 23 20:09:39 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 02:09:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Question for Racers - #6 cylinder heating problem?
Message-ID: <COL106-W31131F4C4400DFE6ED5D50C0750@phx.gbl>

Over the years I have seen a number of photos of British and European
Austin-Healey race car engines that use a hose from the water heater valve at
the rear of the cylinder head that is connected to the radiator hose. I assume
that there must have been an over-heating problem in cylinders #5 and #6 to
warrant this hose connection.
I have been racing for a few years now and have never encountered this kind of
problem.  But, I am bumping my compression ratio up in a new engine for this
summer's racing and I would appreciate any information on this matter.
Up till now I have been running  an 11:1 compression ratio.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 23 20:14:32 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 22:14:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AH hardtop for sale
References: <SNT143-w56AC0ED12A56F95BCD9360D4720@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000401cc19b8$5319d320$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

You had me at $500.,     you lost me at $2100.       How much to restore 
this thing do you think?

MRK

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
To: <john at healey6.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 3:51 PM
Subject: [Healeys] AH hardtop for sale


> Hello, John.  Would I be able to list this on your website?
>
> Factory hardtop for sale.  These are getting hard to find.  This is a 1959
> hardtop that fits all side curtain/ four seater 100-6 and 3000's.  It is 
> best
> described as a survivor- being stored in garage rafters for 40 years!
> Complete.  All original seals, hardware, and glass.  The glass is very 
> clear
> and very usable.  Some small imperfections, but good overall.  Appears to 
> have
> original Colorado red lacquer paint (aged with some scratches, and chips- 
> no
> stress cracks though).  Headliner is all there with some aged appearance.
>
> Would consider taking a $500 non-fundable deposit.  This means when the 
> $500
> is in my hands, the hardtop is yours when you pay the balance.  If you 
> don't
> pay the balance and pick up, you don't get the $500 back.  Until a 
> deposit/ or
> cash is in my hands, first come first serve.   I had a guy try and play 
> games
> with me on a car I sold, so I am just making sure this is clear (its too 
> bad,
> I have to do that).
>
> Located in Lancaster, PA.  Pick up only.
>
> $2,100.00
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon May 23 20:16:40 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 22:16:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] K&N filters for a BJ7
Message-ID: <4ddb1509.46bc340a.4cc0.5abe@mx.google.com>

The K&N web site recommends part number 56-9237 which is a frustum with
dimensions 5 7/8 ->3 1/2 x2 11/16" thick.  A thread in the archives
suggested their custom filter # 56-9247 which requires drilling holes for
the mounting bolts and the air passages.

Any thoughts on the relative advantages or fitting issues?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 23 20:35:10 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 19:35:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] MG-Abingdon Golden Jubilee 1929-1979
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110523192806.020621d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

A friend gave me a numbered original Programme of Events to celebrate 
50 years of building cars at the Abingdon factory.

It is mostly about MG's but there is one page with pictures of the 
big healeys. There is another page announcing and "America-style BBQ. 
One of the grand prizes that was given away was a "Holiday for two in 
the United States of America" valued at 1,000 pounds!

It's an interesting booklet.

John

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon May 23 20:50:03 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 21:50:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN2: relieve valve spring
Message-ID: <CEFCA02F-ECF8-4BAF-9E9A-A85BF54A19D9@yahoo.com>

Does anyone have the specs of the spring of the relieve valve ?

Thanks,

Jose


Sent from my iPad

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 23 21:14:15 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 20:14:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110523193703.0208d9e0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I thought I would try sending this shortened version again because I 
need some sound advice.

>1. Is it advisable to replace the piston ring sets? I plan on 
>replacing the acumulator seal.
>2. Anything special that I should look for when I take it off the trans?
>
>Thank you,
>John Spaur
>'62 BT7

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon May 23 22:00:18 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 23:00:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110523193703.0208d9e0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110523193703.0208d9e0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FC52B2DC-92BB-49A4-8071-CCB91D330CEB@yahoo.com>

I would replace all pistons, taking advantage that you have the overdrive in
the floor...




Sent from my iPad


On May 23, 2011, at 10:14 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I thought I would try sending this shortened version again because I need
some sound advice.
>
>> 1. Is it advisable to replace the piston ring sets? I plan on replacing the
acumulator seal.
>> 2. Anything special that I should look for when I take it off the trans?
>>
>> Thank you,
>> John Spaur
>> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 23 22:18:50 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 21:18:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] K&N filters for a BJ7
In-Reply-To: <4ddb1509.46bc340a.4cc0.5abe@mx.google.com>
References: <4ddb1509.46bc340a.4cc0.5abe@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <4DDB31AA.90901@comcast.net>

I have 6" X 1.75" pancake-style K&Ns on my BJ8.  The rear filter has the holes in the center, the front is a custom-fab 
with the filter riding as low as possible.  Still, the front barely clears the shroud and the fresh air duct.  My 
guess--this is only a guess--is that the thickness might give you trouble on the front filter.   Or, since the top of 
the frustum is smaller you might be OK.  Hard to say--you might try measuring the clearances or fabbing a mockup out of 
styrofoam to see how it'll fit.

The typical K&N setup has stainless plates for the top and bottom of the filter.  You'll need some kind of plate to 
backstop the bolts.  I'm using stub stacks from APT (www.aptfast.com).  You might give David Anton at APT a call and see 
what he thinks.

I fitted the K&Ns after driving through a dust/sand storm in Death Valley, and imagining all that grit getting into my 
engine.

Bob


On 5/23/2011 7:16 PM, Peter Schauss wrote:
> The K&N web site recommends part number 56-9237 which is a frustum with
> dimensions 5 7/8 ->3 1/2 x2 11/16" thick.  A thread in the archives
> suggested their custom filter # 56-9247 which requires drilling holes for
> the mounting bolts and the air passages.
>
> Any thoughts on the relative advantages or fitting issues?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 23 23:27:53 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 07:27:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
In-Reply-To: <2b2cd.79cd75c0.3b0c1dfd@aol.com>
References: <2b2cd.79cd75c0.3b0c1dfd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DDB41D9.4020409@chello.nl>

I have never used "running in" oil but always primed the rebuild engines 
turning over by hand first and then on the starter without plugs until 
oil pressure was shown. Renewing the oil filter and oil after about 
100km is standard procedure for me followed by an oil change at 1000km 
and after that every year, regardless of the distances covered, be it 
500 or 50.000km.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Tue May 24 01:48:09 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 09:48:09 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] K&N filters for a BJ7
In-Reply-To: <4DDB31AA.90901@comcast.net>
References: <4ddb1509.46bc340a.4cc0.5abe@mx.google.com>
	<4DDB31AA.90901@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=7ifg9sASm0Zm4EmV5Kpg_jT7NwA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I am right that the  KN56-9247 does not have any holes drilled in it? It is
a plain "closed box" without the main/secondary air and the fixing holes?

Gergo

2011/5/24 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>

> I have 6" X 1.75" pancake-style K&Ns on my BJ8.  The rear filter has the
> holes in the center, the front is a custom-fab with the filter riding as low
> as possible.  Still, the front barely clears the shroud and the fresh air
> duct.  My guess--this is only a guess--is that the thickness might give you
> trouble on the front filter.   Or, since the top of the frustum is smaller
> you might be OK.  Hard to say--you might try measuring the clearances or
> fabbing a mockup out of styrofoam to see how it'll fit.
>
> The typical K&N setup has stainless plates for the top and bottom of the
> filter.  You'll need some kind of plate to backstop the bolts.  I'm using
> stub stacks from APT (www.aptfast.com).  You might give David Anton at APT
> a call and see what he thinks.
>
> I fitted the K&Ns after driving through a dust/sand storm in Death Valley,
> and imagining all that grit getting into my engine.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 5/23/2011 7:16 PM, Peter Schauss wrote:
>
>> The K&N web site recommends part number 56-9237 which is a frustum with
>> dimensions 5 7/8 ->3 1/2 x2 11/16" thick.  A thread in the archives
>> suggested their custom filter # 56-9247 which requires drilling holes for
>> the mounting bolts and the air passages.
>>
>> Any thoughts on the relative advantages or fitting issues?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Peter Schauss
>> 1963 BJ7
>> 1980 MGB
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From Editorgary at aol.com  Tue May 24 04:09:09 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 06:09:09 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
Message-ID: <10653.4897ca5a.3b0cddc5@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/24/11 12:04:40 AM, coudesluijs at chello.nl writes:


> I have never used "running in" oil but always primed the rebuild engines
> turning over by hand first and then on the starter without plugs until
> oil pressure was shown.
> 
What is called "running-in oil" is simply a good high-grade, heavy-weight 
oil with a guaranteed high amount of ZDDP additive. Torco oil is one good 
example. In Europe, you may never have had the problem we had here for several 
years, when the oil companies were removing ZDDP from all of their regular 
oils and one of the consequences was that engine rebuilders were encountering 
problems with new cams being destroyed during the critical first 15 minutes 
of operation of the new engine, when there was no Zinc to bond with the 
Molybdenum to fill in the microcavities on the surface of the cam lobes. With 
more over-the-counter oils in the 15/40 and 20/50 range now with ZDDP 
additive again, it seems to be less of a problem, but the rebuilders I know still 
use the high-quality oil during that critical first hour or so of engine 
operation.
Gary

From autofarm at cyg.net  Tue May 24 05:30:50 2011
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 07:30:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal
References: <328865.4539.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <40C5A2177C3C418D868683651E5D7DB9@OFFICE>

    Bob, we don't have minimum orders, and we have the seals in stock.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Brown" <blkbt7 at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 6:17 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Front Oil Seal


> List,
> I'm about to grease the front wheel bearings on my BT7. I would like to
> have a
> fresh set of Oil Seals available since I could damage the current ones
> during
> the extraction of said oil seals. Does anyone know of a readily
> available oil
> seal at NAPA or other local parts joint that would be suitable
> for the BT7.  The
> normal LBC suppliers have minimum orders and I'm not sure
> I'd meet them and I'd
> also like to do this in the next couple of days rather
> than wait for seals from
> California.
>
> TIA
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net 

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Tue May 24 05:48:48 2011
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 07:48:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AH hardtop for sale
In-Reply-To: <000401cc19b8$5319d320$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <SNT143-w56AC0ED12A56F95BCD9360D4720@phx.gbl>,
	<000401cc19b8$5319d320$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <SNT143-w601E0C6A95EB73D0CDF1AD4750@phx.gbl>

A similar condition Factory hardtop just went on e-bay for $2,500 and a much
lesser condition one for $1,500 (a buy it now, quick sale).  It could be used
as is/ painted/ or completely restored.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; john at healey6.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH hardtop for sale
> Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 22:14:32 -0400
>
> You had me at $500., you lost me at $2100. How much to restore
> this thing do you think?
>
> MRK
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> To: <john at healey6.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 3:51 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] AH hardtop for sale
>
>
> > Hello, John. Would I be able to list this on your website?
> >
> > Factory hardtop for sale. These are getting hard to find. This is a 1959
> > hardtop that fits all side curtain/ four seater 100-6 and 3000's. It is
> > best
> > described as a survivor- being stored in garage rafters for 40 years!
> > Complete. All original seals, hardware, and glass. The glass is very
> > clear
> > and very usable. Some small imperfections, but good overall. Appears to
> > have
> > original Colorado red lacquer paint (aged with some scratches, and chips-
> > no
> > stress cracks though). Headliner is all there with some aged appearance.
> >
> > Would consider taking a $500 non-fundable deposit. This means when the
> > $500
> > is in my hands, the hardtop is yours when you pay the balance. If you
> > don't
> > pay the balance and pick up, you don't get the $500 back. Until a
> > deposit/ or
> > cash is in my hands, first come first serve. I had a guy try and play
> > games
> > with me on a car I sold, so I am just making sure this is clear (its too
> > bad,
> > I have to do that).
> >
> > Located in Lancaster, PA. Pick up only.
> >
> > $2,100.00
> >
> > The Millers
> > "British Car Nuts"
> >
> > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> > drive."
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 24 07:00:05 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 06:00:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] K&N filters for a BJ7
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=7ifg9sASm0Zm4EmV5Kpg_jT7NwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4ddb1509.46bc340a.4cc0.5abe@mx.google.com>
	<4DDB31AA.90901@comcast.net>
	<BANLkTi=7ifg9sASm0Zm4EmV5Kpg_jT7NwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DDBABD5.8030609@comcast.net>

That appears to be the case; at least, according to the photo of the 'base plate' which shows only holes for the 
pedestal screws.

Bob


On 5/24/2011 12:48 AM, Austin Healey wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am right that the  KN56-9247 does not have any holes drilled in it? It is a plain "closed box" without the 
> main/secondary air and the fixing holes?
>
> Gergo
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Tue May 24 07:49:35 2011
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Schneider Mark)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 06:49:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2625.1306242022.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2625.1306242022.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>

EditorGary,

Regarding the topic of the initial running of rebuilt engines the point was
made that some over-the-counter oil companies have begun to add ZDDP back to
their 10-40 and 20-50 weight oils. Which companies are they?  If I can
purchase oil with an adequate amount of ZDDP already in it I can stop adding
it on my own.

Marks 3

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue May 24 09:19:31 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey])
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 01:19:31 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt  engines
In-Reply-To: <12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.2625.1306242022.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinu4=Af9S4YkSO=xPX_ZyqpyJiZUA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Marks

I use Penrite HPR40/30 depending on the season & use.

You can get it in Australia, NZ & the UK - but I'm not sure about the US

Their ZDDP levels are here
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/149%20LATEST%20ZINC%20LEVELS.pdf

Best

Chris

On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 11:49 PM, Schneider Mark <mandmschneider at comcast.net
> wrote:

> EditorGary,
>
> Regarding the topic of the initial running of rebuilt engines the point was
> made that some over-the-counter oil companies have begun to add ZDDP back
> to
> their 10-40 and 20-50 weight oils. Which companies are they?  If I can
> purchase oil with an adequate amount of ZDDP already in it I can stop
> adding
> it on my own.
>
> Marks 3
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Tue May 24 09:43:36 2011
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 15:43:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt  engines
Message-ID: <807683012-1306251641-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1994935835-@b3.c14.bise6.blackberry>

Many of us use Brad-Penn 20-50
Richard of KY
BN7 #440
------Original Message------
From: Schneider Mark
Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
Sent: May 24, 2011 08:49

EditorGary,

Regarding the topic of the initial running of rebuilt engines the point was
made that some over-the-counter oil companies have begun to add ZDDP back to
their 10-40 and 20-50 weight oils. Which companies are they?  If I can
purchase oil with an adequate amount of ZDDP already in it I can stop adding
it on my own.

Marks 3
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com



Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue May 24 09:41:03 2011
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 08:41:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt   engines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinu4=Af9S4YkSO=xPX_ZyqpyJiZUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.2625.1306242022.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>
	<BANLkTinu4=Af9S4YkSO=xPX_ZyqpyJiZUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <723EB719-BF81-40B2-8613-019FC9661234@att.net>

All Penrite products available from Restoration Specialties here in Southern
California.
Mike MacLean

Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2011, at 8:19, "Chris Dimmock [Healey]" <austin.healey at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Marks
>
> I use Penrite HPR40/30 depending on the season & use.
>
> You can get it in Australia, NZ & the UK - but I'm not sure about the US
>
> Their ZDDP levels are here
> http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/149%20LATEST%20ZINC%20LEVELS.pdf
>
> Best
>
> Chris
>
> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 11:49 PM, Schneider Mark
<mandmschneider at comcast.net
>> wrote:
>
>> EditorGary,
>>
>> Regarding the topic of the initial running of rebuilt engines the point
was
>> made that some over-the-counter oil companies have begun to add ZDDP back
>> to
>> their 10-40 and 20-50 weight oils. Which companies are they?  If I can
>> purchase oil with an adequate amount of ZDDP already in it I can stop
>> adding
>> it on my own.
>>
>> Marks 3
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Tue May 24 11:19:47 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 09:19:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?K=26N_filters_for_BJ7?=
Message-ID: <20110524171947.24299.qmail@hoster902.com>

I modified one of the cylindrical K&N filters with an inset to bring the front filter tight against the carb dome and away from the bodywork.
Here is the link with a drawing:
http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Werner/Installing%20K.pdf


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue May 24 14:41:01 2011
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:41:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt  engines
In-Reply-To: <12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.2625.1306242022.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTik07UBOscm4yJO39yrYuR8F6_E3Ww@mail.gmail.com>

I was under the impression that the reduction in ZDDP was required in order
to comply with the SM-API oil standards.  If this is so how can companies
"add back" ZDDP?

Best--Michael Oritt
----------------------------------------------------

On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 9:49 AM, Schneider Mark
<mandmschneider at comcast.net>wrote:

> EditorGary,
>
> Regarding the topic of the initial running of rebuilt engines the point was
> made that some over-the-counter oil companies have begun to add ZDDP back
> to
> their 10-40 and 20-50 weight oils. Which companies are they?  If I can
> purchase oil with an adequate amount of ZDDP already in it I can stop
> adding
> it on my own.
>
> Marks 3
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Tue May 24 14:40:58 2011
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:40:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 over charging solution
In-Reply-To: <96flt6tg5pch2bpc424dqhptuobfd9o8kn@4ax.com>
References: <8CDE78FC97312B9-1394-274B1@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
	<492961888.667796.1306177282171.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<96flt6tg5pch2bpc424dqhptuobfd9o8kn@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <8CDE86A05BB8162-1694-2F6E@webmail-m143.sysops.aol.com>

These electrical gremlins can drive us nuts!  As it turns out, it was the
battery causing the over charging.  It was hard to diagnose because the
battery seemed normal.  I brought it to Auto Zone and they tested it every
which way and declared it fine.  I asked the guy to put it on a charger and it
was drawing a lot of amps.  I'm guessing there's an internal short in the
battery.  Bought a new battery and just took a great test ride along Lake
Ontario.

Thanks for all the advice.

Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7
Webster, NY










-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: npaul72464 <npaul72464 at aol.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 23, 2011 4:10 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 over charging


I don't think it is possible to overcharge a car battery at 13.5
volts.  If I remember right, 13.8 is the nominal charging voltage at
full charge.  So at 13.5 volts the battery is not likely to be
accepting a high current charge forever, or even being fully charged.
Therefore, if the current is about 30 amps,  the current must be going
somewhere else, like a short or crummy connection somewhere.  I'd look
for something that is hot that shouldn't be hot.

It isn't clear to me from what you have said, Ned.  At, say, 3000 rpm
is the voltage still 13.5?  Or has it gone bonkers at 14 to 15 volts?
If the voltage never goes over 13.5, then the battery is not being
overcharged.

-Roland


On Mon, 23 May 2011 19:01:22 +0000 (UTC), Bob wrote:

::Once again my ignorance of the 'mid-year' Healeys makes its existence known
(I
think my BJ8 has a three-coil VR but, actually, it's been a while since I
opened
it up).
::
::13.5V at the battery seems a bit low, which makes sense given the large
current draw. My VR knowledge isn't immense; but I did study them some when my
Dad's fire engine's single coil VR wasn't working properly. That engine has
some
circuitry in the generator to limit current output.
::
::My guess is the generator has a problem. There may be some diagnostic tests
in
the manual, or online somewhere (maybe disconnecting the 'F' lead momentarily,
but research this first lest you let the smoke out). There should be something
to limit current; holding a constant voltage won't limit the generator output
if
there's excessive current draw.
::
::Is your ammeter wired in series with the generator and the battery? It's
conceivable the battery has an internal short.
::
::Bob
::
::--------------------------------
::Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
::
::
::
::Than ks a lot for the reply, Bob. My regulator is the two coil type and I
replaced it with another and the amperage was still reading near 30. I
replaced
the ammeter with another I had and that still read high. There are about 13
1/2
volts at the battery at 1500 RPM. Just over 12 volts at the battery with the
engine off.
::
::Ned
::

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Tue May 24 14:55:34 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 22:55:34 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights and indicator problems
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=wUTitAyvF-npNw8bQkMvjZF2eSw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,

I'm in the Uk to collect my car and drive it back to Belgium. I hadn't used
it for 6 months but it started ok with a new battery installed. I took it
for about a 10 mile test run and so far so good, engine running very nicely.
I've got two electrical problems, very few tools with me  and very litle
time to get them put right as Im planning to set off back on friday.

1. Brake Lights not working. I've booked the car into a small garage on
thursdy for the guy to have a look at the problem. Both rear lights work and
seperate auxillary indicator lights are fitted on the car so the brake
lights don't double up as indicators. I'm guessing its something to do with
the pressure switch in the hydraulic system. If so does this normally mean
the switch has to be replaced? I may ask him to install some kind of direct
electrical switched connected to the brake pedal.

2. My car has seperate orange indicators fitted front and back, quite a nice
job and they look quite good. I have not had chance to see how these are
wired up in the electrical system but they are no longer flashing. When the
switch is is activated to the left or right, the indicators illuminate but
do not flash. Is this likely to mean the samll flasher unit needs replacing.


The garage guys are not Healey specialists and I'd just like to be able to
give them any assistance that might help.

thanks

Derek

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Tue May 24 15:16:47 2011
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 21:16:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt   engines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTik07UBOscm4yJO39yrYuR8F6_E3Ww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.2625.1306242022.12225.healeys@autox.team.net><12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net><BANLkTik07UBOscm4yJO39yrYuR8F6_E3Ww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1857905125-1306271632-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2022768521-@b3.c14.bise6.blackberry>

I thought it and certain other additives were removed to avoid screwing up catalytic converters...
Richard of KY
BN7 #440
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:41:01 
To: Schneider Mark<mandmschneider at comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt  engines

I was under the impression that the reduction in ZDDP was required in order
to comply with the SM-API oil standards.  If this is so how can companies
"add back" ZDDP?

Best--Michael Oritt
----------------------------------------------------

On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 9:49 AM, Schneider Mark
<mandmschneider at comcast.net>wrote:

> EditorGary,
>
> Regarding the topic of the initial running of rebuilt engines the point was
> made that some over-the-counter oil companies have begun to add ZDDP back
> to
> their 10-40 and 20-50 weight oils. Which companies are they?  If I can
> purchase oil with an adequate amount of ZDDP already in it I can stop
> adding
> it on my own.
>
> Marks 3
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 24 14:57:32 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 13:57:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt   engines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTik07UBOscm4yJO39yrYuR8F6_E3Ww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.2625.1306242022.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>
	<BANLkTik07UBOscm4yJO39yrYuR8F6_E3Ww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5C5E3501-F04A-425D-9BA7-8EB370F12D06@sbcglobal.net>

The reduction of ZDDP was to reduce hydrocarbons in the emissions


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On May 24, 2011, at 1:41 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:

> I was under the impression that the reduction in ZDDP was required in order
> to comply with the SM-API oil standards.  If this is so how can companies
> "add back" ZDDP?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 9:49 AM, Schneider Mark
> <mandmschneider at comcast.net>wrote:
>
>> EditorGary,
>>
>> Regarding the topic of the initial running of rebuilt engines the point
was
>> made that some over-the-counter oil companies have begun to add ZDDP back
>> to
>> their 10-40 and 20-50 weight oils. Which companies are they?  If I can
>> purchase oil with an adequate amount of ZDDP already in it I can stop
>> adding
>> it on my own.
>>
>> Marks 3
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 24 15:34:50 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 14:34:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt   engines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTik07UBOscm4yJO39yrYuR8F6_E3Ww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.2625.1306242022.12225.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>
	<BANLkTik07UBOscm4yJO39yrYuR8F6_E3Ww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <74297B3F-1788-450D-A555-01424E75433C@sbcglobal.net>

The reduction of ZDDP was to reduce hydrocarbons in the emissions


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On May 24, 2011, at 1:41 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:

> I was under the impression that the reduction in ZDDP was required in order
> to comply with the SM-API oil standards.  If this is so how can companies
> "add back" ZDDP?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 9:49 AM, Schneider Mark
> <mandmschneider at comcast.net>wrote:
>
>> EditorGary,
>>
>> Regarding the topic of the initial running of rebuilt engines the point
was
>> made that some over-the-counter oil companies have begun to add ZDDP back
>> to
>> their 10-40 and 20-50 weight oils. Which companies are they?  If I can
>> purchase oil with an adequate amount of ZDDP already in it I can stop
>> adding
>> it on my own.
>>
>> Marks 3
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Tue May 24 15:46:08 2011
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 07:46:08 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights and indicator problems
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=wUTitAyvF-npNw8bQkMvjZF2eSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=wUTitAyvF-npNw8bQkMvjZF2eSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <11626AC688964A9FB39DED8A67D11283@Notebook>

G'day Derek

Those hydraulic switches are a pain in the b***! I (any many others) use the 
mechanical switch from Watson Streetworks:

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/brake_switches.html

Sounds like flasher unit has gone bung.

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6


-----Original Message----- 
From: Derek Job
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 6:55 AM
To: Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights and indicator problems

Hi all,

I'm in the Uk to collect my car and drive it back to Belgium. I hadn't used
it for 6 months but it started ok with a new battery installed. I took it
for about a 10 mile test run and so far so good, engine running very nicely.
I've got two electrical problems, very few tools with me  and very litle
time to get them put right as Im planning to set off back on friday.

1. Brake Lights not working. I've booked the car into a small garage on
thursdy for the guy to have a look at the problem. Both rear lights work and
seperate auxillary indicator lights are fitted on the car so the brake
lights don't double up as indicators. I'm guessing its something to do with
the pressure switch in the hydraulic system. If so does this normally mean
the switch has to be replaced? I may ask him to install some kind of direct
electrical switched connected to the brake pedal.

2. My car has seperate orange indicators fitted front and back, quite a nice
job and they look quite good. I have not had chance to see how these are
wired up in the electrical system but they are no longer flashing. When the
switch is is activated to the left or right, the indicators illuminate but
do not flash. Is this likely to mean the samll flasher unit needs replacing.


The garage guys are not Healey specialists and I'd just like to be able to
give them any assistance that might help.

thanks

Derek

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Tue May 24 17:02:23 2011
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:02:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt    engines
In-Reply-To: <1857905125-1306271632-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2022768521-@b3.c14.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <940473.55368.qm@web121810.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

We nitrate camshafts to resolve the zddp problem and oils We offer these on an
exchange program.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue May 24 17:55:39 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:55:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] zinc in oil
Message-ID: <BANLkTimZLZuMkjhHqYUcOUsXXGVCC5+7oQ@mail.gmail.com>

Found this ad at the bottom of my Gmail on the subject of oils
*http://tinyurl.com/3kkx9cm*

-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR

We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue May 24 18:03:26 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 17:03:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
Message-ID: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com>

I have removed my wire harness.
I have the tar paper ? insulation material to install on the interior bulk
head. Should I put the grommets in before the insulation or afterwards?  I
keep looking at it and can't decide which way is best? Or am I over thinking
this as I have been accused of in the past?

-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR

We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Tue May 24 18:21:11 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 17:21:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt  engines
In-Reply-To: <12727962-937D-406C-A9E7-C83070A68B30@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <539796.74779.qm@web65907.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I use Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50 and would be interested if any thinks this
is a bad idea.

--- On Tue, 5/24/11, Schneider Mark
<mandmschneider at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Schneider Mark
<mandmschneider at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil
filters, and rebuilt engines
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, May
24, 2011, 9:49 AM
> EditorGary,
> 
> Regarding the topic of the initial
running of rebuilt
> engines the point was
> made that some over-the-counter
oil companies have begun to
> add ZDDP back to
> their 10-40 and 20-50 weight
oils. Which companies are
> they?  If I can
> purchase oil with an adequate
amount of ZDDP already in it
> I can stop adding
> it on my own.
> 
> Marks 3
> _______________________________________________

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Tue May 24 18:33:52 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 17:33:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] zinc in oil
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimZLZuMkjhHqYUcOUsXXGVCC5+7oQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <172356.82228.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Cool coupon, but I use the non-synthetic VR1.  It's locally available at
NAPA.

--- On Tue, 5/24/11, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: I Erbs
<eyera3 at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] zinc in oil
> To: "healey help"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, May 24, 2011, 7:55 PM
> Found this
ad at the bottom of my
> Gmail on the subject of oils
>
*http://tinyurl.com/3kkx9cm*
> 
> -- 
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
> IT
CONSULTANTS
> Portland, OR
> 
> We can't solve problems by using the same kind
of
> thinking we used when we created them.
>                
>              
 
>            -Albert
> Einstein
>
_______________________________________________

From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Tue May 24 19:40:41 2011
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 20:40:41 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <443873873.3118961306287641624.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>

Put paper in first  IMHO

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
To: "healey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 7:03:26 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall

I have removed my wire harness.
I have the tar paper ? insulation material to install on the interior bulk
head. Should I put the grommets in before the insulation or afterwards?  I
keep looking at it and can't decide which way is best? Or am I over thinking
this as I have been accused of in the past?

-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR

We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008 at mchsi.com

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 24 19:39:51 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 18:39:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110524183746.04e1f760@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Put them in afterwards or be very careful when spreading the glue. 
BTW, David Nock applies Dynamat under the tar paper. I just applied 
the tar paper.

John

At 05:03 PM 5/24/2011 -0700, you wrote:
>Should I put the grommets in before the insulation or afterwards?
>
>Ira Erbs

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 24 20:31:49 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 19:31:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
In-Reply-To: <443873873.3118961306287641624.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
References: <443873873.3118961306287641624.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
Message-ID: <87535379-2563-4DB9-90E2-892088B33175@sbcglobal.net>

Install Dynamat first, then put the tarpaper over the dynamat to give that
original look. We have the tar paper already pre cut. Then install the wiring
harness with grommet, firewall grommets.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On May 24, 2011, at 6:40 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:

> Put paper in first  IMHO
>
> Tim Davis BN7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
> To: "healey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 7:03:26 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
>
> I have removed my wire harness.
> I have the tar paper ? insulation material to install on the interior bulk
> head. Should I put the grommets in before the insulation or afterwards?  I
> keep looking at it and can't decide which way is best? Or am I over
thinking
> this as I have been accused of in the past?
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
> IT CONSULTANTS
> Portland, OR
>
> We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> thinking we used when we created them.
>                                          -Albert Einstein
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008 at mchsi.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 24 19:54:58 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 18:54:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] License plate supplier
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110524185228.020376d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Does anyone know who could make a license plate? I need one made up 
in steel. The source that I knew of makes them in aluminum which is 
not very durable.

Thank you,
John Spaur
California - '62 BT7

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue May 24 20:52:07 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 19:52:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] License plate supplier
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110524185228.020376d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110524185228.020376d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=qYPC7AY7dkDYME9tstZw7eYH1UQ@mail.gmail.com>

San Quentin Prison used to make them :)

On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 6:54 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Does anyone know who could make a license plate? I need one made up in
> steel. The source that I knew of makes them in aluminum which is not very
> durable.
>
> Thank you,
> John Spaur
> California - '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR

We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue May 24 21:03:17 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 20:03:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] door lock assembly
Message-ID: <BANLkTinXDCfxZ++HqZCtKHB3zg3dXeynDw@mail.gmail.com>

I need help with instructions/descriptions and pictures on how to
re-assemble the door lock mechanisms?
I am not at the same location as my doors and I need to provide instructions
for my friend who is putting them back together for me.
Wire harness is out, insulating bulkhead, installing new harness on Friday.
Just might get my car to Vancouver,WA under it's own power. Carbs should be
back from rebuilder, next week. Installing Nock's cable throttle rig for my
BJ8 carbs on my BT7. Dash will be recovered Sunday. Things are picking up
and my body is cooperating.
Crossing my fingers....
I'd hate to tow it the 15 miles from my house to the meet......

-- 
Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
IT CONSULTANTS
Portland, OR

We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Tue May 24 22:21:15 2011
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 21:21:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] License plate supplier
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=qYPC7AY7dkDYME9tstZw7eYH1UQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110524185228.020376d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTi=qYPC7AY7dkDYME9tstZw7eYH1UQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTik+rCqRECrsAfxW+gPwX7Wj+hjpPA@mail.gmail.com>

just google it. lots of choices.
ron rader

On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 7:52 PM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> San Quentin Prison used to make them :)
>
> On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 6:54 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know who could make a license plate? I need one made up in
> > steel. The source that I knew of makes them in aluminum which is not very
> > durable.

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Wed May 25 00:04:30 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 08:04:30 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights and indicator problems
In-Reply-To: <006301cc1a7f$ee32b0d0$ca981270$@net>
References: <BANLkTi=wUTitAyvF-npNw8bQkMvjZF2eSw@mail.gmail.com>
	<006301cc1a7f$ee32b0d0$ca981270$@net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=hxDbYY=FNMbt1YdZSzoumQv3WEw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Rich, will do.

Thanks everyone for all the other replies. I should have mentioned the
car is a 100-Six. The orange indicators may have thrown some of you. They
have been added to the car. I think I'll keep them.

This car was resurrected from the dead. You can read about it's history and
rebuild here

http://www.healeysix.net/mynew100six.htm

Weather is beautiful here in the North West of England, climate change does
have some benefits!  Looking forward to more Healying today on the nearly
deserted coast road and country lanes..


cheers all

Derek
On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 4:03 AM, Rich Chrysler
<richchrysler at quickclic.net>wrote:

> Derek,
>
> The brake pressure switch is the likely culprit of no brake lights.
> For the flashers, make sure all the bulbs are okay and working, including
> the indicator bulb on the dash. If any bulb in the circuit is burned out or
> inoperable for any reason the flasher cannot build up the resistance to
> flash.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Derek Job
> Sent: 2011-05-24 4:56
> To: Forum
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights and indicator problems
>
>  Hi all,
>
> I'm in the Uk to collect my car and drive it back to Belgium. I hadn't used
> it for 6 months but it started ok with a new battery installed. I took it
> for about a 10 mile test run and so far so good, engine running very
> nicely.
> I've got two electrical problems, very few tools with me  and very litle
> time to get them put right as Im planning to set off back on friday.
>
> 1. Brake Lights not working. I've booked the car into a small garage on
> thursdy for the guy to have a look at the problem. Both rear lights work
> and
> seperate auxillary indicator lights are fitted on the car so the brake
> lights don't double up as indicators. I'm guessing its something to do with
> the pressure switch in the hydraulic system. If so does this normally mean
> the switch has to be replaced? I may ask him to install some kind of direct
> electrical switched connected to the brake pedal.
>
> 2. My car has seperate orange indicators fitted front and back, quite a
> nice
> job and they look quite good. I have not had chance to see how these are
> wired up in the electrical system but they are no longer flashing. When the
> switch is is activated to the left or right, the indicators illuminate but
> do not flash. Is this likely to mean the samll flasher unit needs
> replacing.
>
>
> The garage guys are not Healey specialists and I'd just like to be able to
> give them any assistance that might help.
>
> thanks
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed May 25 01:49:46 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 09:49:46 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights and indicator problems
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=wUTitAyvF-npNw8bQkMvjZF2eSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=wUTitAyvF-npNw8bQkMvjZF2eSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DDCB49A.8090806@chello.nl>

Brake light switch faulty (dirty, corroded) because of not using the car.
Do not worry about the flasher. If the battery is a bit low the flasher 
will not blink but stay on. Once on the move the situation usually 
improves. All British cars from the era do this. The bimetal in the 
flasher relay does not heat up enough when the voltage is a bit low, 
i.e. ca. 12,5V.
Have a good trip.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Wed May 25 01:56:08 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 09:56:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
In-Reply-To: <10653.4897ca5a.3b0cddc5@aol.com>
References: <10653.4897ca5a.3b0cddc5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinvCcSGYefOEkwoyv4GudH8WPHfhA@mail.gmail.com>

I usualy use diesel oil for the fist startups, as they are told to be better
for runnig-in. Is it only a industrial legend, or fact?
Never had running-in oil related problems soo far.

Gergo

2011/5/24 <Editorgary at aol.com>

> In a message dated 5/24/11 12:04:40 AM, coudesluijs at chello.nl writes:
>
>
> > I have never used "running in" oil but always primed the rebuild engines
> > turning over by hand first and then on the starter without plugs until
> > oil pressure was shown.
> >
> What is called "running-in oil" is simply a good high-grade, heavy-weight
> oil with a guaranteed high amount of ZDDP additive. Torco oil is one good
> example. In Europe, you may never have had the problem we had here for
> several
> years, when the oil companies were removing ZDDP from all of their regular
> oils and one of the consequences was that engine rebuilders were
> encountering
> problems with new cams being destroyed during the critical first 15 minutes
> of operation of the new engine, when there was no Zinc to bond with the
> Molybdenum to fill in the microcavities on the surface of the cam lobes.
> With
> more over-the-counter oils in the 15/40 and 20/50 range now with ZDDP
> additive again, it seems to be less of a problem, but the rebuilders I know
> still
> use the high-quality oil during that critical first hour or so of engine
> operation.
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From RobertDuquette at Sympatico.ca  Wed May 25 06:22:23 2011
From: RobertDuquette at Sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 08:22:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Geico
References: <B7897045-B732-4391-BFD8-5F01F4FE3EFE@me.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP39DFC4DADEEC81BAABB3B2B8740@phx.gbl>

> This made it on to the Spridgets list ...
>
>
http://video.l3.fbcdn.net/cfs-l3-ash4/231581/521/200018423375171_18127.mp4?oh
=f9016eff28cf10d1465f332fc2c81957&oe=4DDEE500&l3s=20110524163048&l3e=20110526
164048&lh=08544aef1598a1a24c2da
>
> Or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/4ye2opg
>
> Robert
> Sent from my device that doesn't pay me to advertise for them.

From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com  Wed May 25 06:25:52 2011
From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 08:25:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinvCcSGYefOEkwoyv4GudH8WPHfhA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <10653.4897ca5a.3b0cddc5@aol.com>
	<BANLkTinvCcSGYefOEkwoyv4GudH8WPHfhA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=kmc9=k0SxkPpqB8SB-4xfnoiq0Q@mail.gmail.com>

I actually run my street cars with diesel oil.

jon

On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 3:56 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> I usualy use diesel oil for the fist startups, as they are told to be
> better
> for runnig-in. Is it only a industrial legend, or fact?
> Never had running-in oil related problems soo far.
>
> Gergo
>
> 2011/5/24 <Editorgary at aol.com>
>
> > In a message dated 5/24/11 12:04:40 AM, coudesluijs at chello.nl writes:
> >
> >
> > > I have never used "running in" oil but always primed the rebuild
> engines
> > > turning over by hand first and then on the starter without plugs until
> > > oil pressure was shown.
> > >
> > What is called "running-in oil" is simply a good high-grade, heavy-weight
> > oil with a guaranteed high amount of ZDDP additive. Torco oil is one good
> > example. In Europe, you may never have had the problem we had here for
> > several
> > years, when the oil companies were removing ZDDP from all of their
> regular
> > oils and one of the consequences was that engine rebuilders were
> > encountering
> > problems with new cams being destroyed during the critical first 15
> minutes
> > of operation of the new engine, when there was no Zinc to bond with the
> > Molybdenum to fill in the microcavities on the surface of the cam lobes.
> > With
> > more over-the-counter oils in the 15/40 and 20/50 range now with ZDDP
> > additive again, it seems to be less of a problem, but the rebuilders I
> know
> > still
> > use the high-quality oil during that critical first hour or so of engine
> > operation.
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
>



-- 
Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
412 Orange Street
New Haven, CT. 06511
tel: 203-777-3777
einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
fax: 203-782-1721
cell: 203-623-7373

From barrie at look.ca  Wed May 25 08:09:55 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 10:09:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
In-Reply-To: <87535379-2563-4DB9-90E2-892088B33175@sbcglobal.net>
References: <443873873.3118961306287641624.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
	<87535379-2563-4DB9-90E2-892088B33175@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <E1QPF9U-00046q-HU@gamma.look.ca>

Don't go and buy Dynamat !  Just go to your local roofing supplies 
centre and buy the stuff they use to cover flat roofs  Dynamat works 
out around $11 per sqft. (from Moss catalog).   My stuff was 
Flex-Clad from MFM Building Products Corp (www.flexclad.com)  and a 
100 sqft was a mere $130 - so $1.30 per sqft.

And do not be fooled - It is EXACTLY the same construction as 
Dynamat.  Actually I suspect that Dy just has their logo put on this 
roofing stuff.  I did the whole of my MGB GT V8 with it plus a very 
high density foam (mass stops noise) and now using it on my 1955 
Aston.   For more info go to www.britcot.com.

I have some stock if anyone wants to buy a few sqft.

At 10:31 PM 5/24/2011, David Nock wrote:
>Install Dynamat first, then put the tarpaper over the dynamat to give that
>original look. We have the tar paper already pre cut. Then install the wiring
>harness with grommet, firewall grommets.
>
>
>David Nock
>British Car Specialists
>Stockton Ca
>www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
>On May 24, 2011, at 6:40 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:
>
> > Put paper in first  IMHO
> >
> > Tim Davis BN7
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
> > To: "healey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 7:03:26 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> > Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
> >
> > I have removed my wire harness.
> > I have the tar paper ? insulation material to install on the interior bulk
> > head. Should I put the grommets in before the insulation or afterwards?  I
> > keep looking at it and can't decide which way is best? Or am I over
>thinking
> > this as I have been accused of in the past?
> >
> > --
> > Ira Erbs
> > DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS
> > IT CONSULTANTS
> > Portland, OR
> >
> > We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> > thinking we used when we created them.
> >                                          -Albert Einstein
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008 at mchsi.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed May 25 08:49:47 2011
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 14:49:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1
Message-ID: <941914140.1292820.1306334987549.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List,



Received the following from a guy who's street car is "a fuel cell short of a
race car".


Valvoline VR1 used to be racing oil used almost religiously be a lot of
racers.
A while back we started to find it on auto parts stores' shelves with and at
the same price as regular oil.B  Turns out that Valvoline was just taking
advantage of the famous name.B  This oil is API Service SM intended for modern
cars with catalyctic converters and with a reduced lever of ZDDP.B  Although
the bottle says it has ZDDP added.B  I'm not sure how it can be SM, a service
standard that calls for less ZDDP, add ZDDP and still be SM.
Valvoline still makes VR1 racing oil. It now clearly says racing oil on the
bottle and is expensive.B  Like Penn Grade 1 racing oil it does not have an
API rating and is officially intended for off road use.

Ed Woods

From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com  Wed May 25 12:34:18 2011
From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 11:34:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] clutch disk
Message-ID: <315190.95271.qm@web120119.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

having a prob to make sure which way it goes

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Picture 001.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Picture 002.jpg]

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed May 25 13:45:19 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 21:45:19 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] clutch disk
In-Reply-To: <315190.95271.qm@web120119.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <315190.95271.qm@web120119.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DDD5C4F.3040000@chello.nl>

It is clearly stated on the disc itself, flywheel this side, flywheel or 
something to that extend. It is very rare that this does not show. You 
can always check on the old disc.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From barrie at look.ca  Wed May 25 13:50:41 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 15:50:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110524183746.04e1f760@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110524183746.04e1f760@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E1QPKHk-00049S-Jg@alpha.look.ca>

I am not sure why tar paper.  The stuff I get from the roofing 
people, which is exactly the same as Dynamat but $1.30 against $11 
per sqft. has an aluminium foil topside.  If I am missing something 
please let me know - but why tar paper I want to know.


At 09:39 PM 5/24/2011, john spaur wrote:
>Put them in afterwards or be very careful when spreading the glue. 
>BTW, David Nock applies Dynamat under the tar paper. I just applied 
>the tar paper.
>
>John
>
>At 05:03 PM 5/24/2011 -0700, you wrote:
>>Should I put the grommets in before the insulation or afterwards?
>>
>>Ira Erbs
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060  

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed May 25 14:06:19 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 13:06:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
In-Reply-To: <E1QPKHk-00049S-Jg@alpha.look.ca>
References: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110524183746.04e1f760@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<E1QPKHk-00049S-Jg@alpha.look.ca>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=M7CYhjhmgez1DzZ5TwTOAg-CLUg@mail.gmail.com>

Tar paper was used on interior bulkhead, and floor as an insulator from
heat. Works for shit IMHO.so dynamat type stuff, that works is used.
Tarpaper is applied over it to look original

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 25, 2011 1:02 PM, "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca> wrote:
>
> I am not sure why tar paper. The stuff I get from the roofing
> people, which is exactly the same as Dynamat but $1.30 against $11
> per sqft. has an aluminium foil topside. If I am missing something
> please let me know - but why tar paper I want to know.
>
>
> At 09:39 PM 5/24/2011, john spaur wrote:
>>Put them in afterwards or be very careful when spreading the glue.
>>BTW, David Nock applies Dynamat under the tar paper. I just applied
>>the tar paper.
>>
>>John
>>
>>At 05:03 PM 5/24/2011 -0700, you wrote:
>>>Should I put the grommets in before the insulation or afterwards?
>>>
>>>Ira Erbs
>>_______________________________________________
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca
>
> Regards
>
> Barrie
> barrie at look.ca
> 705-721-9060

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Wed May 25 15:44:25 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 16:44:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] clutch disk
In-Reply-To: <315190.95271.qm@web120119.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <315190.95271.qm@web120119.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim3TR8JiWF4eRUuRfKiWU+DJmf4fA@mail.gmail.com>

normally, the disc says FRONT etched in the metal.  this side goes to the
flywheel side.
cheers,
jerry

On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 1:34 PM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> having a prob to make sure which way it goes
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
> Picture 001.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
> Picture 002.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed May 25 16:12:33 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 15:12:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch disk
In-Reply-To: <315190.95271.qm@web120119.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <315190.95271.qm@web120119.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0C0D639D-5AC3-4FFB-BC37-778A5115245E@gmail.com>

If for some reason the disc is not marked hold it sideways so you are looking
at the outer edge. The center metal will stick out above the lining on one
side of the disc, but not on the other side.
The side that sticks out goes toward the pressure plate.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On May 25, 2011, at 11:34, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> having a prob to make sure which way it goes
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
Picture 001.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
Picture 002.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From pennell at cox.net  Wed May 25 17:05:30 2011
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 19:05:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: healey list
In-Reply-To: <FB086F014A2040D7A6D234987BA9590F@CompacPC>
Message-ID: <20110525190530.GTDCG.567546.imail@eastrmwml33>

Carl, 
 
Tidewater Association of Classic Healeys (TACH, AHCA affiliated) has a Thomas 
Pinelli of Yorktown VA in its membership.  Don't know of any Bob Pinelli of 
Richmond.  Any other TACH people out there have any clues/ideas? 
 
Keith 
 
---- Carl  Brown <cwbrown3000 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> This gentleman is in Richmond and is doing a Healey, you might want to contact 
him or have someone from Richmond do so. 
> Carl 
> 
> From: ROBERT PINELLI 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 9:40 AM 
> To: Carl Brown 
> Subject: Re: healey list 
> 
> 
>       Good Morning Car; 
> 
>       We just got back from NJ. from picking up the 106 engine. He has put it 
up with white litheum grease. It also has an engine no. on it. So I hope with 
both avenues , I will be able to get a title. 
> 
>       Bob Pinelli 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed May 25 17:56:07 2011
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 19:56:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=M7CYhjhmgez1DzZ5TwTOAg-CLUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110524183746.04e1f760@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<E1QPKHk-00049S-Jg@alpha.look.ca>
	<BANLkTi=M7CYhjhmgez1DzZ5TwTOAg-CLUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00ae01cc1b37$51607950$f4216bf0$@net>

Wrong, boys!

The tarpaper (actually referred to as heavy felt paper) is not there as a
thermal insulator, it was more of a sound dampener applied to those flat
panels, also the floor application was a bit of a protector from dampness
for the first while until it ultimately deteriorated.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: 2011-05-25 4:06
To: Barrie Robinson
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] question about interior firewall

Tar paper was used on interior bulkhead, and floor as an insulator from
heat. Works for shit IMHO.so dynamat type stuff, that works is used.
Tarpaper is applied over it to look original

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 25, 2011 1:02 PM, "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca> wrote:
>
> I am not sure why tar paper. The stuff I get from the roofing
> people, which is exactly the same as Dynamat but $1.30 against $11
> per sqft. has an aluminium foil topside. If I am missing something
> please let me know - but why tar paper I want to know.
>
>
> At 09:39 PM 5/24/2011, john spaur wrote:
>>Put them in afterwards or be very careful when spreading the glue.
>>BTW, David Nock applies Dynamat under the tar paper. I just applied
>>the tar paper.
>>
>>John
>>
>>At 05:03 PM 5/24/2011 -0700, you wrote:
>>>Should I put the grommets in before the insulation or afterwards?
>>>
>>>Ira Erbs
>>_______________________________________________
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca
>
> Regards
>
> Barrie
> barrie at look.ca
> 705-721-9060
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed May 25 18:13:52 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 20:13:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Good oil
Message-ID: <f3f3.fde3bc7.3b0ef540@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/25/11 11:13:23 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> Valvoline still makes VR1 racing oil. It now clearly says racing oil on
> the
> bottle and is expensive.B  Like Penn Grade 1 racing oil it does not have
> an
> API rating and is officially intended for off road use.
>
That's the stuff you want.
G.

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Wed May 25 18:19:22 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 17:19:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626A8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

While out on a spirited jaunt in my 61 Jag XK 150 last weekend we lost
one of the short spokes on the 16" 54 spoke Dunlops.  The chain reaction
destroyed the tube and gutted the sidewall of the tire.

Luckily the thing didn't blow out, but survived to go flat in my
driveway, so apparently it didn't happen while cracking the ton on the
freeway on the way home from my office.

I have been informed by several suppliers that a replacement spoke,
which is valued at $2.00 in the XK's Unlimited catalog is now made of
"unobtanium".

The car is now laid up for an indeterminate period of time (The original
50 year old spare and wheel are not roadworthy) waiting for either a
$2.00 replacement spoke, or $2K in new 60 spoke Dunlops, as the 54 spoke
units are no longer made.

If anybody knows of a source for such a spoke (or handful thereof) - I'd
greatly appreciate it.

Thank you,


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Wed May 25 18:43:17 2011
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 00:43:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626A8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626A8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W150550BB4ADC4A1046EC29B5770@phx.gbl>

Jonas
When I was into motorcycles, I had Buchanans www.buchananspokes.net/ make up
spokes to order a couple of times. I sent a sample of what I needed and they
produced them for me. Don't know if they do spokes for automobile wheels but
perhaps worth a try.
Rick'59 BN4


> If anybody knows of a source for such a spoke (or handful thereof) - I'd
> greatly appreciate it.
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Jonas Payne

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 25 19:01:39 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 21:01:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1
References: <941914140.1292820.1306334987549.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01cc1b40$7887e2d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Yea that is the big question for all the products that say they contain zddp 
including StP.

Some say you really don't need the extra zddp after break in and others 
continue to add a
zddp additive.   It comes down to your choice depending on what your 
resources are leading
you to believe.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 10:49 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1


> List,
>
>
>
> Received the following from a guy who's street car is "a fuel cell short 
> of a
> race car".
>
>
> Valvoline VR1 used to be racing oil used almost religiously be a lot of
> racers.
> A while back we started to find it on auto parts stores' shelves with and 
> at
> the same price as regular oil.B  Turns out that Valvoline was just taking
> advantage of the famous name.B  This oil is API Service SM intended for 
> modern
> cars with catalyctic converters and with a reduced lever of ZDDP.B 
> Although
> the bottle says it has ZDDP added.B  I'm not sure how it can be SM, a 
> service
> standard that calls for less ZDDP, add ZDDP and still be SM.
> Valvoline still makes VR1 racing oil. It now clearly says racing oil on 
> the
> bottle and is expensive.B  Like Penn Grade 1 racing oil it does not have 
> an
> API rating and is officially intended for off road use.
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May 25 19:12:08 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 09:12:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626A8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626A8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimtT7r+6RqM6TFkmuWLFy_0QF=ekA@mail.gmail.com>

Jonas -

I quick check of XKS Unlimited online shows that they have this spoke,
in stock, for $2.  Part no 17-0200:

https://www.xksunlimited.com/xks/merchant.ihtml?id=319&step=2

I buy from XKs for my Mk IX all the time, very good supplier.

Note that if your wheel had the proper rubber spoke retaining band,
you probably would not have had a puncture on the road.  I highly
recommend that you fit a band, or at the very least run a few wraps of
wide electrical tape over the spoke ends in the rim, to prevent a
disaster when you are cracking the ton.

Cheers,

Alan


On Thu, May 26, 2011 at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
> While out on a spirited jaunt in my 61 Jag XK 150 last weekend we lost
> one of the short spokes on the 16" 54 spoke Dunlops.  The chain reaction
> destroyed the tube and gutted the sidewall of the tire.
>
> Luckily the thing didn't blow out, but survived to go flat in my
> driveway, so apparently it didn't happen while cracking the ton on the
> freeway on the way home from my office.
>
> I have been informed by several suppliers that a replacement spoke,
> which is valued at $2.00 in the XK's Unlimited catalog is now made of
> "unobtanium".
>
> The car is now laid up for an indeterminate period of time (The original
> 50 year old spare and wheel are not roadworthy) waiting for either a
> $2.00 replacement spoke, or $2K in new 60 spoke Dunlops, as the 54 spoke
> units are no longer made.
>
> If anybody knows of a source for such a spoke (or handful thereof) - I'd
> greatly appreciate it.
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May 25 19:25:49 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 09:25:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
Message-ID: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>

All -

I'd like to have an original style tank to replace the cheap Mexican
copy that I bought 20 years ago from the Austin Healey Store in LA
(this tank has now rusted through).  I'm a bit concerned about
corrosion, so I was curious if I should purchase an aluminum tank
(possible galvanic corrosion risk to the car frame) or Moss's new
"high quality repro" metal tank with zinc prepped steel like original.
 I'm not really all that interested in the stainless tanks out there,
they don't look anywhere close to original.

What are your thoughts on this?  Maybe if I just give the ALI tank a
very good strong coat of paint and put on neoprene pads, then risk of
galvanic corrosion should be minimal, correct?

Alan

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Wed May 25 19:35:30 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 18:35:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimtT7r+6RqM6TFkmuWLFy_0QF=ekA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626A8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<BANLkTimtT7r+6RqM6TFkmuWLFy_0QF=ekA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626AA@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

Called on that one today - they list it, but per "Bill" apparently it isn't
really there.

Bummer........


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 6:12 PM
To: Jonas Payne
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels

Jonas -

I quick check of XKS Unlimited online shows that they have this spoke, in
stock, for $2.  Part no 17-0200:

https://www.xksunlimited.com/xks/merchant.ihtml?id=319&step=2

I buy from XKs for my Mk IX all the time, very good supplier.

Note that if your wheel had the proper rubber spoke retaining band, you
probably would not have had a puncture on the road.  I highly recommend that
you fit a band, or at the very least run a few wraps of wide electrical tape
over the spoke ends in the rim, to prevent a disaster when you are cracking
the ton.

Cheers,

Alan


On Thu, May 26, 2011 at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
> While out on a spirited jaunt in my 61 Jag XK 150 last weekend we lost
> one of the short spokes on the 16" 54 spoke Dunlops.  The chain
> reaction destroyed the tube and gutted the sidewall of the tire.
>
> Luckily the thing didn't blow out, but survived to go flat in my
> driveway, so apparently it didn't happen while cracking the ton on the
> freeway on the way home from my office.
>
> I have been informed by several suppliers that a replacement spoke,
> which is valued at $2.00 in the XK's Unlimited catalog is now made of
> "unobtanium".
>
> The car is now laid up for an indeterminate period of time (The
> original
> 50 year old spare and wheel are not roadworthy) waiting for either a
> $2.00 replacement spoke, or $2K in new 60 spoke Dunlops, as the 54
> spoke units are no longer made.
>
> If anybody knows of a source for such a spoke (or handful thereof) -
> I'd greatly appreciate it.
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May 25 19:40:27 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 09:40:27 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626AA@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626A8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<BANLkTimtT7r+6RqM6TFkmuWLFy_0QF=ekA@mail.gmail.com>
	<744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626AA@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinq02Bcdgs1Rw57mp9L=6WZPwPMgQ@mail.gmail.com>

Aha -

Ok, since that didn't work, you should try Guy Broad Spares
(affiliated with Steve Norton / Cape International in the UK).  They
also list it in their catalogue, pt #C5603, Item 31, second to last
page:

http://www.guybroad.co.uk/download_catalogues/pdf/XK_150_PARTS.pdf

If they send it by royal mail, you'll have it in a week or less.

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, May 26, 2011 at 9:35 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
> Called on that one today - they list it, but per "Bill" apparently it isn't
really there.
>
> Bummer........
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 6:12 PM
> To: Jonas Payne
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels
>
> Jonas -
>
> I quick check of XKS Unlimited online shows that they have this spoke, in
stock, for $2.  Part no 17-0200:
>
> https://www.xksunlimited.com/xks/merchant.ihtml?id=319&step=2
>
> I buy from XKs for my Mk IX all the time, very good supplier.
>
> Note that if your wheel had the proper rubber spoke retaining band, you
probably would not have had a puncture on the road.  I highly recommend that
you fit a band, or at the very least run a few wraps of wide electrical tape
over the spoke ends in the rim, to prevent a disaster when you are cracking
the ton.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Thu, May 26, 2011 at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
>> While out on a spirited jaunt in my 61 Jag XK 150 last weekend we lost
>> one of the short spokes on the 16" 54 spoke Dunlops.  The chain
>> reaction destroyed the tube and gutted the sidewall of the tire.
>>
>> Luckily the thing didn't blow out, but survived to go flat in my
>> driveway, so apparently it didn't happen while cracking the ton on the
>> freeway on the way home from my office.
>>
>> I have been informed by several suppliers that a replacement spoke,
>> which is valued at $2.00 in the XK's Unlimited catalog is now made of
>> "unobtanium".
>>
>> The car is now laid up for an indeterminate period of time (The
>> original
>> 50 year old spare and wheel are not roadworthy) waiting for either a
>> $2.00 replacement spoke, or $2K in new 60 spoke Dunlops, as the 54
>> spoke units are no longer made.
>>
>> If anybody knows of a source for such a spoke (or handful thereof) -
>> I'd greatly appreciate it.
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>>
>> Jonas Payne
>> PBR
>> Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Wed May 25 19:41:31 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 18:41:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinq02Bcdgs1Rw57mp9L=6WZPwPMgQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626A8@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com><BANLkTimtT7r+6RqM6TFkmuWLFy_0QF=ekA@mail.gmail.com><744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626AA@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
	<BANLkTinq02Bcdgs1Rw57mp9L=6WZPwPMgQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626AB@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

You Rock! Thanks!

I should order a handful of them.....................


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 6:40 PM
To: Jonas Payne
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels

Aha -

Ok, since that didn't work, you should try Guy Broad Spares (affiliated with
Steve Norton / Cape International in the UK).  They also list it in their
catalogue, pt #C5603, Item 31, second to last
page:

http://www.guybroad.co.uk/download_catalogues/pdf/XK_150_PARTS.pdf

If they send it by royal mail, you'll have it in a week or less.

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, May 26, 2011 at 9:35 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
> Called on that one today - they list it, but per "Bill" apparently it isn't
really there.
>
> Bummer........
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 6:12 PM
> To: Jonas Payne
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey - Dunlop 16" 54 spoke wheels
>
> Jonas -
>
> I quick check of XKS Unlimited online shows that they have this spoke, in
stock, for $2.  Part no 17-0200:
>
> https://www.xksunlimited.com/xks/merchant.ihtml?id=319&step=2
>
> I buy from XKs for my Mk IX all the time, very good supplier.
>
> Note that if your wheel had the proper rubber spoke retaining band, you
probably would not have had a puncture on the road.  I highly recommend that
you fit a band, or at the very least run a few wraps of wide electrical tape
over the spoke ends in the rim, to prevent a disaster when you are cracking
the ton.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Thu, May 26, 2011 at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at thorcon.net> wrote:
>> While out on a spirited jaunt in my 61 Jag XK 150 last weekend we
>> lost one of the short spokes on the 16" 54 spoke Dunlops.  The chain
>> reaction destroyed the tube and gutted the sidewall of the tire.
>>
>> Luckily the thing didn't blow out, but survived to go flat in my
>> driveway, so apparently it didn't happen while cracking the ton on
>> the freeway on the way home from my office.
>>
>> I have been informed by several suppliers that a replacement spoke,
>> which is valued at $2.00 in the XK's Unlimited catalog is now made of
>> "unobtanium".
>>
>> The car is now laid up for an indeterminate period of time (The
>> original
>> 50 year old spare and wheel are not roadworthy) waiting for either a
>> $2.00 replacement spoke, or $2K in new 60 spoke Dunlops, as the 54
>> spoke units are no longer made.
>>
>> If anybody knows of a source for such a spoke (or handful thereof) -
>> I'd greatly appreciate it.
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>>
>> Jonas Payne
>> PBR
>> Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Wed May 25 19:50:34 2011
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 20:50:34 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>

Buy cheap tank,  powder coat the exterior and use tank sealer inside.

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 8:25:49 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?

All -

I'd like to have an original style tank to replace the cheap Mexican
copy that I bought 20 years ago from the Austin Healey Store in LA
(this tank has now rusted through).  I'm a bit concerned about
corrosion, so I was curious if I should purchase an aluminum tank
(possible galvanic corrosion risk to the car frame) or Moss's new
"high quality repro" metal tank with zinc prepped steel like original.
 I'm not really all that interested in the stainless tanks out there,
they don't look anywhere close to original.

What are your thoughts on this?  Maybe if I just give the ALI tank a
very good strong coat of paint and put on neoprene pads, then risk of
galvanic corrosion should be minimal, correct?

Alan
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008 at mchsi.com

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Wed May 25 19:53:07 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 01:53:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters,
 and rebuilt     engines
In-Reply-To: <940473.55368.qm@web121810.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1857905125-1306271632-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2022768521-@b3.c14.bise6.blackberry>,
	<940473.55368.qm@web121810.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <col106-w528FAC22A6DC291234EE22C0770@phx.gbl>

Marty,
What is "nitrate" and how do you "nitrate" a camshaft. It is usually the case,
but not always, that the lifters go away before the camshaft. I believe that
lifters are usually chilled iron - camshafts are steel. The extreme pressure
between the lifter and the camshaft is the situation that creates the
destruction of lifters and lobes. ZDDP is the sacrificial substance that
protects these surfaces. I don't understand how you can "nitrate" a camshaft
and solve this extreme pressure situation without the presence of ZDDP.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon




> Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:02:23 -0700
> From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt
engines
>
> We nitrate camshafts to resolve the zddp problem and oils We offer these on
an
> exchange program.
>
> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

From stephen.white at wku.edu  Wed May 25 22:49:51 2011
From: stephen.white at wku.edu (White, Stephen)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 23:49:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] matching
Message-ID: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>

Hello List - here's my dilema, as applies to my '57 100-6.  I acquired an
engine seperate from the car, the engine was rebuilt (generator, everything)
as positive ground. (Leo Rouf)  The problem: I don't know if the car is
positive ground.  It didn't have a battery as an indicator; it looks like it
went through a restoration awhile back so I wonder if a PO may have made the
switch from positive to negative ground.
Any way to tell if the car is neg or pos ground? (I've checked the archives -
plenty of info on how to make the switch, but can't find anything on how to
tell if a car has been switched)
thanks for any help.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May 25 23:15:04 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 13:15:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] matching
In-Reply-To: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
References: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=WKLv9NbRbV8w7XBOs6LyYfg7YDQ@mail.gmail.com>

Stephen -

For your 100/6, if it has original style points in the distributor and
also the fuel pump, then you can put the battery in any way you want
and the car will run either way.  Just be sure to swap terminals on
the coil at some time as these work better one way vs the other.

If going negative, you may (or may not) need to polarize the coil
magnets on the dynamo with a quick touch to positive is it?  Lots of
info in the archive on this.  Either way you can start anyway without
doing this and the dynamo might take anyway.

Alan


On 5/26/11, White, Stephen <stephen.white at wku.edu> wrote:
> Hello List - here's my dilema, as applies to my '57 100-6.  I acquired an
> engine seperate from the car, the engine was rebuilt (generator, everything)
> as positive ground. (Leo Rouf)  The problem: I don't know if the car is
> positive ground.  It didn't have a battery as an indicator; it looks like it
> went through a restoration awhile back so I wonder if a PO may have made the
> switch from positive to negative ground.
> Any way to tell if the car is neg or pos ground? (I've checked the archives
> -
> plenty of info on how to make the switch, but can't find anything on how to
> tell if a car has been switched)
> thanks for any help.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed May 25 23:22:58 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 22:22:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] matching
In-Reply-To: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
References: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
Message-ID: <00be01cc1b64$f98feb60$ecafc220$@ca>

Does the lead from the positive or negative terminal of the battery to the
battery cut-off switch (ground).   If the lead from the negative terminal
goes to the switch, the car is negative ground, Alternatively, if the lead
from the positive terminal goes to the knob, the car is positive ground.

If the car is negative ground, it would be easier to convert the engine to
negative than the car back to positive.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of White, Stephen
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 9:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] matching

Hello List - here's my dilema, as applies to my '57 100-6.  I acquired an
engine seperate from the car, the engine was rebuilt (generator, everything)
as positive ground. (Leo Rouf)  The problem: I don't know if the car is
positive ground.  It didn't have a battery as an indicator; it looks like it
went through a restoration awhile back so I wonder if a PO may have made the
switch from positive to negative ground.
Any way to tell if the car is neg or pos ground? (I've checked the archives
-
plenty of info on how to make the switch, but can't find anything on how to
tell if a car has been switched)
thanks for any help.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 25 23:13:58 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 22:13:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110525215355.0204c688@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I have not filled my Moss tank up yet but it is a very good tank. I 
am very impressed with it. The only issue I had was with the gasket. 
It seems to lift the tank up higher than the fuel supply line but 
that can be sorted out.

John
'62 BT7

At 09:25 AM 5/26/2011 +0800, you wrote:
>...I should purchase an aluminum tank ...  or Moss's new
>"high quality repro" metal tank ...
>
>Alan

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed May 25 23:37:32 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 00:37:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] matching
In-Reply-To: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
References: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
Message-ID: <98F6FB93A3BD4EC4AED2C3FACAB13C9C@GregPC>

I don't think you have much to worry about, the rest of the ancillary 
electrics don't "care" if they are positive or negative ground, lights 
doesn't matter, heater blower motor doesn't matter,  wipers, blinkers ditto.

If you have a modern radio this will be an issue as it will be negative 
ground, if it has an original period radio probably positive, but worth 
checking (not sure how, unless it has a polarity switch or is marked on the 
outside somewhere).

The coil will work both ways, but better if the small "+"  "-" wires are 
hooked up right, if this is part of the motor with "generator everything" 
that has been set up positive earth you should be there too.

So the only thing you might blow up is your radio, if you don't have one you 
should be able to just hook the battery up positive ground and you will be 
good to go.

Later cars have an eletric tach which needs to be worked on too, but yours 
is still mechanical, so OK.

Greg Lemon

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu May 26 02:05:08 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 16:05:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] matching
In-Reply-To: <98F6FB93A3BD4EC4AED2C3FACAB13C9C@GregPC>
References: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
	<98F6FB93A3BD4EC4AED2C3FACAB13C9C@GregPC>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikB8Kbksksg=aHXYgQncL5T81i2_A@mail.gmail.com>

Stephen -

Dont forget that the battery terminals are different sizes.  If your old
cables are still attached to the car, you will know how the car was hooked
up when you try to connect the terminals to the battery.

Alan

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu May 26 03:15:37 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 19:15:37 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters,
 and rebuilt      engines
In-Reply-To: <col106-w528FAC22A6DC291234EE22C0770@phx.gbl>
References: <1857905125-1306271632-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2022768521-@b3.c14.bise6.blackberry>,
	<940473.55368.qm@web121810.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<col106-w528FAC22A6DC291234EE22C0770@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <28EE069D-D286-4B3A-9EF4-C25A2114B9F7@gmail.com>

I think he meant what i call nitride. As in nitriding a crank. Surface  
hardening.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitriding
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 26/05/2011, at 11:53 AM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>  
wrote:

> Marty,
> What is "nitrate" and how do you "nitrate" a camshaft. It is usually  
> the case,
> but not always, that the lifters go away before the camshaft. I  
> believe that
> lifters are usually chilled iron - camshafts are steel. The extreme  
> pressure
> between the lifter and the camshaft is the situation that creates the
> destruction of lifters and lobes. ZDDP is the sacrificial substance  
> that
> protects these surfaces. I don't understand how you can "nitrate" a  
> camshaft
> and solve this extreme pressure situation without the presence of  
> ZDDP.
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
> Portland, Oregon
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:02:23 -0700
>> From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt
> engines
>>
>> We nitrate camshafts to resolve the zddp problem and oils We offer  
>> these on
> an
>> exchange program.
>>
>> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu May 26 05:36:33 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 07:36:33 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes
Message-ID: <8edb.79831996.3b0f9541@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/26/11 1:13:08 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> You Rock! Thanks!
> 
> I should order a handful of them.....................
> 
> 
> Jonas Payne
> 

And resell them to XKs at $3 a piece so they can mark them up and sell them 
in their catalog for$6. XKs is seriously slipping if there is another 
supplier in the world that can get a part they list in their catalog but have as 
unavailable in their system. They used to be unbeatable for hard-to-get 
British parts.
G.

From warthodson at aol.com  Thu May 26 07:11:07 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 09:11:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
Message-ID: <8CDE9BD82448022-18EC-165F9@webmail-m136.sysops.aol.com>

Recently, a friend purchased a steel tank & had the exterior powder coated.
The heat used in the powder coating process melted a foam "filter" media
installed inside the tank near the pickup tube thus creating a big mess inside
the tank which was very difficult to remove.
Gary Hodson






-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 25, 2011 8:50 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?


Buy cheap tank,  powder coat the exterior and use tank sealer inside.
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
rom: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
o: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
ent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 8:25:49 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
ubject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
All -
I'd like to have an original style tank to replace the cheap Mexican
opy that I bought 20 years ago from the Austin Healey Store in LA
this tank has now rusted through).  I'm a bit concerned about
orrosion, so I was curious if I should purchase an aluminum tank
possible galvanic corrosion risk to the car frame) or Moss's new
high quality repro" metal tank with zinc prepped steel like original.
I'm not really all that interested in the stainless tanks out there,
hey don't look anywhere close to original.
What are your thoughts on this?  Maybe if I just give the ALI tank a
ery good strong coat of paint and put on neoprene pads, then risk of
alvanic corrosion should be minimal, correct?
Alan
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
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______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Thu May 26 07:38:37 2011
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 08:38:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <1965492734.3374781306417112831.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
Message-ID: <1840227745.3374851306417117777.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>

Good point, I was aiming at an exterior coating system that would hold up well over the years. My point and experience has been a lined tank holds up very well. I can't remember if the filter you refer to is removable or if the original tanks, as mine is, had them but I coated mine 10 years ago after discovering small leaks and it is leak free today. I bought the sealer from Bill Hirsch, he also sold green engine enamel. I have used this process since the 60s, originally on motorcycle tanks and have never had a problem afterwards. 

Tim Davis BN7 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: warthodson at aol.com 
To: tld6008 at mchsi.com, "healey nut" <healey.nut at gmail.com> 
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 8:11:07 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank? 


Recently, a friend purchased a steel tank & had the exterior powder coated. The heat used in the powder coating process melted a foam "filter" media installed inside the tank near the pickup tube thus creating a big mess inside the tank which was very difficult to remove. 
Gary Hodson 





-----Original Message----- 
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008 at mchsi.com> 
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> 
Cc: Healey <Healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wed, May 25, 2011 8:50 pm 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank? 


Buy cheap tank,  powder coat the exterior and use tank sealer inside.

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" < healey.nut at gmail.com >
To: "Healey" < Healeys at autox.team.net >
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 8:25:49 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?

All -

I'd like to have an original style tank to replace the cheap Mexican
copy that I bought 20 years ago from the Austin Healey Store in LA
(this tank has now rusted through).  I'm a bit concerned about
corrosion, so I was curious if I should purchase an aluminum tank
(possible galvanic corrosion risk to the car frame) or Moss's new
"high quality repro" metal tank with zinc prepped steel like original.
 I'm not really all that interested in the stainless tanks out there,
they don't look anywhere close to original.

What are your thoughts on this?  Maybe if I just give the ALI tank a
very good strong coat of paint and put on neoprene pads, then risk of
galvanic corrosion should be minimal, correct?

Alan
_______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008 at mchsi.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 26 08:59:43 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 07:59:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] matching
In-Reply-To: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
References: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
Message-ID: <AAEB4993-3970-4BAF-92CC-A5604667B567@sbcglobal.net>

Stephen, The car and engine do not care which way you connect the  
battery.  Either positive or Negative ground. What will decide which  
way to connect is a couple of things. If you are going concourse you  
must go positive ground. If you are going to use a alternator, radio,  
power supply for a cell phone, or any electrical accesory installed  
on the car you must go to Negative ground. If you are going to keep  
the car pretty much stock you can go either way.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 25, 2011, at 9:49 PM, White, Stephen wrote:

> Hello List - here's my dilema, as applies to my '57 100-6.  I  
> acquired an
> engine seperate from the car, the engine was rebuilt (generator,  
> everything)
> as positive ground. (Leo Rouf)  The problem: I don't know if the  
> car is
> positive ground.  It didn't have a battery as an indicator; it  
> looks like it
> went through a restoration awhile back so I wonder if a PO may have  
> made the
> switch from positive to negative ground.
> Any way to tell if the car is neg or pos ground? (I've checked the  
> archives -
> plenty of info on how to make the switch, but can't find anything  
> on how to
> tell if a car has been switched)
> thanks for any help.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From barrie at look.ca  Thu May 26 14:01:00 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 16:01:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs 14>
References: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
Message-ID: <E1QPhDe-0005Er-PU@iota.look.ca>

My Aston tank was awful and had pin holes all along the back 
end.  Had it done by a rad restoration place and now it is beautiful. 
Coated inside (white) and outside (Greeny grey and shiny ) - cost Cdn$250


At 09:50 PM 5/25/2011, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:
>Buy cheap tank,  powder coat the exterior and use tank sealer inside.
>
>Tim Davis BN7
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 8:25:49 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
>Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
>
>All -
>
>I'd like to have an original style tank to replace the cheap Mexican
>copy that I bought 20 years ago from the Austin Healey Store in LA
>(this tank has now rusted through).  I'm a bit concerned about
>corrosion, so I was curious if I should purchase an aluminum tank
>(possible galvanic corrosion risk to the car frame) or Moss's new
>"high quality repro" metal tank with zinc prepped steel like original.
>  I'm not really all that interested in the stainless tanks out there,
>they don't look anywhere close to original.
>
>What are your thoughts on this?  Maybe if I just give the ALI tank a
>very good strong coat of paint and put on neoprene pads, then risk of
>galvanic corrosion should be minimal, correct?
>
>Alan
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008 at mchsi.com
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Thu May 26 14:47:34 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:47:34 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
Message-ID: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>

Take a look at the ad here

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938

Is this actually correct? We all know about the Healey 4000 with the RR
engine and the sliced and diced chassis and body that was 4 inches wider,
but whats the story behind this car. Is the ad correct. Just interested.

Derek

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 26 14:55:53 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 13:55:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <E1QPhDe-0005Er-PU@iota.look.ca>
References: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
	<E1QPhDe-0005Er-PU@iota.look.ca>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110526135241.0209dcd8@pop.att.yahoo.com>

The pickup tube inside an original tank has a plastic cage with a 
screen. Coating the inside can clog the screen.

The new Moss tank is around $250 if not less plus shipping. I am not 
trying to promote Moss but it is really a nice tank.

John Spaur
BT7

At 04:01 PM 5/26/2011 -0400, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>My Aston tank was awful and had pin holes all along the back
>end.  Had it done by a rad restoration place and now it is beautiful.
>Coated inside (white) and outside (Greeny grey and shiny ) - cost Cdn$250
>
>
>At 09:50 PM 5/25/2011, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:
> >Buy cheap tank,  powder coat the exterior and use tank sealer inside.
> >Tim Davis BN7

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu May 26 15:29:52 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 07:29:52 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <211DBB09DFFA47DAB458B13E435B036F@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Derek

Let the buyer beware.

However the timing for the Rover 3.5 litre V8 seems right. This engine
started as a Buick 215 engine that was first introduced in 1961. Then in
1965 the deal was done between Rover and GM for the engine to be made in the
UK. It first went into the Rover P6 in 1968. The same engine also was
redesigned to form the Repco Brabham V8 that carried Sir Jack Brabham to the
F1 World Championship in 1966.

The Repco engine also powered the Healey XR37 at Le Mans in 1970.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: Friday, 27 May 2011 6:48 AM
To: Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale

Take a look at the ad here

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938

Is this actually correct? We all know about the Healey 4000 with the RR
engine and the sliced and diced chassis and body that was 4 inches wider,
but whats the story behind this car. Is the ad correct. Just interested.

Derek
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu May 26 15:33:14 2011
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 17:33:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W8D0BEEC8F8BD3D5FE7B50AD770@phx.gbl>

With the fender flares, it would appear to be a fiberglass kit car. Which are
NOT RARE.
Bill
BJ7
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:47:34 +0200
> From: derek.c.job at gmail.com
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
>
> Take a look at the ad here
>
> http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938
>
> Is this actually correct? We all know about the Healey 4000 with the RR
> engine and the sliced and diced chassis and body that was 4 inches wider,
> but whats the story behind this car. Is the ad correct. Just interested.
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/insptwo at msn.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu May 26 15:54:19 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 16:54:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W8D0BEEC8F8BD3D5FE7B50AD770@phx.gbl>
References: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL109-W8D0BEEC8F8BD3D5FE7B50AD770@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DDECC0B.8000506@justbrits.com>

<< With the fender flares, it would appear to be a fiberglass kit car. >>

Perhaps a John Chatham unit ?? 

I've NOT seen interior in one of hid, but this thing is not only a
BUNCH wrong but UGLY <G> !!

Ed
'63 BJ-7 [ Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates   AH BJ 7   ]
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
3]  Don't miss the big Midget 50th Birthday Party at:
     "Road America" in beautiful Elkhart, WI !!
     http://sprite-midgetclub.org/   

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Thu May 26 15:57:56 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 23:57:56 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <211DBB09DFFA47DAB458B13E435B036F@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<211DBB09DFFA47DAB458B13E435B036F@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <4DDECCE4.9020508@bredband.net>

Hi
Isn't that an HMC Healey? The story in the ad points in that direction. 
I don't think this is the only HMC built, it might be the only HMC 
prototype though.

Per in Sweden

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 26 16:44:21 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 15:44:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110526135241.0209dcd8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
	<E1QPhDe-0005Er-PU@iota.look.ca>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110526135241.0209dcd8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9D820272-F641-4F82-A3CA-D7FC151E065A@sbcglobal.net>

We have cut open several original tanks and have not found one with a  
screen on the pick up. The pick up tube comes straight down and make  
a 90 degree bend and then goes under a plate attached to the bottom  
of the tank.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 26, 2011, at 1:55 PM, john spaur wrote:

> The pickup tube inside an original tank has a plastic cage with a  
> screen. Coating the inside can clog the screen.
>
> The new Moss tank is around $250 if not less plus shipping. I am  
> not trying to promote Moss but it is really a nice tank.
>
> John Spaur
> BT7
>
> At 04:01 PM 5/26/2011 -0400, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>> My Aston tank was awful and had pin holes all along the back
>> end.  Had it done by a rad restoration place and now it is beautiful.
>> Coated inside (white) and outside (Greeny grey and shiny ) - cost  
>> Cdn$250
>>
>>
>> At 09:50 PM 5/25/2011, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:
>> >Buy cheap tank,  powder coat the exterior and use tank sealer  
>> inside.
>> >Tim Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From roberth148 at gmail.com  Thu May 26 16:55:41 2011
From: roberth148 at gmail.com (Robert W. Humphreys)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:55:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Robert W. Humphreys shared an album with you.
Message-ID: <20cf300fb34d78337d04a435b8c1@google.com>

Here are the best of my photos from Calif Healey Week.

Bob

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=115047327590971467961&target=ALBUM&id=5611158877999076929&authkey=Gv1sRgCPjNsMiYzfHDTw&invite=CLCO5e8L&feat=email

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of picasaweblogo-en_US.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of email.jpg]

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu May 26 17:32:26 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 18:32:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <1840227745.3374851306417117777.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
References: <1840227745.3374851306417117777.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
Message-ID: <61F315EE66D84E9EBA440A1761414E1B@GregPC>

Second the good experience with Bill Hirssch tank sealer, nasty rust, but no 
leak through on my 100 tank, sealed up with Bill Hirsch for 10 years with no 
issues.

Greg Lemon 

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Thu May 26 17:59:09 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 16:59:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110526135241.0209dcd8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <691933.96887.qm@web65906.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

My moss tank went in and I haven't dealt with it since. 

Greg
65BJ8

--- On
Thu, 5/26/11, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> From: john spaur
<jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, May 26, 2011, 4:55 PM
> The
pickup tube inside an original
> tank has a plastic cage with a 
> screen.
Coating the inside can clog the screen.
> 
> The new Moss tank is around $250
if not less plus shipping.
> I am not 
> trying to promote Moss but it is
really a nice tank.
> 
> John Spaur
> BT7
> 
> At 04:01 PM 5/26/2011 -0400,
Barrie Robinson wrote:
> >My Aston tank was awful and had pin holes all along
the
> back
> >end.  Had it done by a rad restoration place and
> now it is
beautiful.
> >Coated inside (white) and outside (Greeny grey and
> shiny ) -
cost Cdn$250
> >
> >
> >At 09:50 PM 5/25/2011, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:
> > >Buy
cheap tank,  powder coat the exterior and
> use tank sealer inside.
> > >Tim
Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com

From awill at ccs.ua.edu  Thu May 26 18:12:34 2011
From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 19:12:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief spring
Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4DE@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>

I recently purchased a pressure relief spring and valve for my 3000. I checked
the length and found it to be about .050" shorter than what's specified in the
manual, but about .100 longer than the old one I put int 15 years ago. It also
has 15 coils rather than 13. Just wondering if this is one of those "looks
different, but performs the same as original" type parts that we find from
time to time. I'm hoping to see better oil pressure after this rebuild. I'd
hate to be let down by a crappy part.

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu May 26 19:00:35 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 18:00:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <4DDECCE4.9020508@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <559700.45706.qm@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Per,

I think you are correct, it does look like one of the HMC cars.  There were a
couple of UK firms trying to do "continuation" Healeys in the late '80s. early
'90s,  They've never moved me, though.    The Healey was long in the tooth
when it met its demise in the late 60s.  Any attempts to drag it into a later
decade just seems wrong to me.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Thu, 5/26/11, Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net> wrote:

From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy at bredband.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, May 26, 2011, 5:57 PM

Hi
Isn't that an HMC Healey? The story in the ad points in that direction. I
don't think this is the only HMC built, it might be the only HMC prototype
though.

Per in Sweden
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu May 26 19:12:20 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 11:12:20 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <211DBB09DFFA47DAB458B13E435B036F@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<211DBB09DFFA47DAB458B13E435B036F@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <3396621296B54DB8B8FA5139B4487A35@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Derek

I sent the link to a more knowledgeable friend who said that it looks very
much like the Harrier which DMH didn't approve. My friend saw it on display
at the International Healey weekend at Brands Hatch in 1985.

No doubt the name was chosen after the great success of the aircraft of that
name during the Falkland's War.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Friday, 27 May 2011 7:30 AM
To: 'Derek Job'; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale

G'day Derek

Let the buyer beware.

However the timing for the Rover 3.5 litre V8 seems right. This engine
started as a Buick 215 engine that was first introduced in 1961. Then in
1965 the deal was done between Rover and GM for the engine to be made in the
UK. It first went into the Rover P6 in 1968. The same engine also was
redesigned to form the Repco Brabham V8 that carried Sir Jack Brabham to the
F1 World Championship in 1966.

The Repco engine also powered the Healey XR37 at Le Mans in 1970.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: Friday, 27 May 2011 6:48 AM
To: Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale

Take a look at the ad here

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938

Is this actually correct? We all know about the Healey 4000 with the RR
engine and the sliced and diced chassis and body that was 4 inches wider,
but whats the story behind this car. Is the ad correct. Just interested.

Derek
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Thu May 26 19:33:11 2011
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 01:33:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt  engines
In-Reply-To: <28EE069D-D286-4B3A-9EF4-C25A2114B9F7@gmail.com>
References: <1857905125-1306271632-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2022768521-@b3.c14.bise6.blackberry>,
	<940473.55368.qm@web121810.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<col106-w528FAC22A6DC291234EE22C0770@phx.gbl>,
	<28EE069D-D286-4B3A-9EF4-C25A2114B9F7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <col106-w3869273AB9EFAF342177CC0760@phx.gbl>

I know what "nitriding" is. And it will not solve the problem of wiping out
cam lobes or lifters or both.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon




> From: austin.healey at gmail.com
> To: mayorrichard at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt
engines
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 19:15:37 +1000
>
> I think he meant what i call nitride. As in nitriding a crank. Surface
> hardening.
> http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitriding
> Best
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 26/05/2011, at 11:53 AM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Marty,
> > What is "nitrate" and how do you "nitrate" a camshaft. It is usually
> > the case,
> > but not always, that the lifters go away before the camshaft. I
> > believe that
> > lifters are usually chilled iron - camshafts are steel. The extreme
> > pressure
> > between the lifter and the camshaft is the situation that creates the
> > destruction of lifters and lobes. ZDDP is the sacrificial substance
> > that
> > protects these surfaces. I don't understand how you can "nitrate" a
> > camshaft
> > and solve this extreme pressure situation without the presence of
> > ZDDP.
> >
> >
> > Richard Mayor
> > BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
> > Portland, Oregon
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:02:23 -0700
> >> From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com
> >> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt
> > engines
> >>
> >> We nitrate camshafts to resolve the zddp problem and oils We offer
> >> these on
> > an
> >> exchange program.
> >>
> >> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu May 26 19:42:50 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 21:42:50 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] A "real" Healey? I think not.
Message-ID: <12908.bf249ff.3b105b9a@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/26/11 6:15:48 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> Per,
>
> I think you are correct, it does look like one of the HMC cars.  There
> were a
> couple of UK firms trying to do "continuation" Healeys in the late '80s.
> early
> '90s,  They've never moved me, though.    The Healey was long in the tooth
> when it met its demise in the late 60s.  Any attempts to drag it into a
> later
> decade just seems wrong to me.
>
> Rick
>

Amazing how you can tell a big lie with a little truth. From what I can
remember, there was a proposal by an independent company to make a car with
the
Healey name, around a Rover V8 -- something that was tried at least four
times that I recall. Geoff Healey was involved during the time that his
consultancy claimed ownership of the Healey name to the extent that he was
willing
to lend his name (frankly, those folks were in challenging economic
circumstances and willing to sell the name to anyone with money . The use of
the
name was challenged by Jensen, the company ran out of money, and nothing ever
came of it.
To suggest that somehow this was a real Healey is so wrong.
Gary

From jagwarman at gmail.com  Thu May 26 20:37:58 2011
From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:37:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank
Message-ID: <BANLkTinPFYgfnkoE3frQ0_BaRNERkbBVjw@mail.gmail.com>

What I do with pin holes on gas tanks is first was the tank out with Muritic
acid then grind off the exterior where the holes are and fill them with JB
Weld and with an electric sander on the exterior smooth it out like body
work. Then I coat the inside with gas tank sealer from Bill Hearsch and it
is good as new .

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu May 26 21:07:27 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 11:07:27 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <3396621296B54DB8B8FA5139B4487A35@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<211DBB09DFFA47DAB458B13E435B036F@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<3396621296B54DB8B8FA5139B4487A35@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimUTFDE513223iiRz9BG0HQVeE5tg@mail.gmail.com>

It's definitely an HMC Healey, note the insignia wings on the bonnet:

http://www.v8wizard.com/photo_gallery/HMC_Healey.php

<http://www.v8wizard.com/photo_gallery/HMC_Healey.php>Also centre laced
wheels, etc., almost identical.

Also note the company that is selling it - Holmes Motor Company... which is
HMC.

Alan

On Fri, May 27, 2011 at 9:12 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Derek
>
> I sent the link to a more knowledgeable friend who said that it looks very
> much like the Harrier which DMH didn't approve. My friend saw it on display
> at the International Healey weekend at Brands Hatch in 1985.
>
> No doubt the name was chosen after the great success of the aircraft of
> that
> name during the Falkland's War.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia

From awill at ccs.ua.edu  Thu May 26 21:16:03 2011
From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:16:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief spring
In-Reply-To: <20110527023942.24422.qmail@server278.com>
References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4DE@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>,
	<20110527023942.24422.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4DF@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>

Thanks for the reply. I went back and did a search in the archives (which I
should have done before asking the question) so I better understand the issue.
I saw mention of shorter than stock springs, so I gather it's typical of that
product. That's no problem as long as it holds to 60 psi. But, if it has
lighter compressive force and opens at, say, 40psi. would that not be an
issue? Conjecture, of course. The bottom line for me is if no one has a
problem with them, I'm OK with using it.

________________________________________
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net [healeymanjim at hansencc.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 9:39 PM
To: Williams, Allen
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief spring

the pressure relief valve only works when the oil is cold and it opens to
allow bypass and keeps the pressure at approx 60psi. once the oil gets warm
enough to drop below 60psi the valve closes, never to enter the oil pressure
equation again unless  the pressure rises above 60 psi for some obscure
reason.  it is like a thermostat; once open it no effect on termperature
except to keep the temp from falling below the set value.  hjim

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Thu May 26 21:25:11 2011
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 23:25:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinPFYgfnkoE3frQ0_BaRNERkbBVjw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTinPFYgfnkoE3frQ0_BaRNERkbBVjw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005301cc1c1d$afe96680$0fbc3380$@mindspring.com>

Me too... I've done nearly the same thing.   Only difference for me was once
I got to the ground off exterior step, I took the tank to a radiator place
and had him solder on some shim material over the holes...the solder flows
under the shim material to form a thick metal layer over all the area of the
tank which had pinholes... I then applied an electric sander to the edges to
smooth it out like body work, painted and used the Bill Hearsch process to
coat the inside...has worked for more than 11 years...:-)



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Frederich Ficke
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 10:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank

What I do with pin holes on gas tanks is first was the tank out with Muritic
acid then grind off the exterior where the holes are and fill them with JB
Weld and with an electric sander on the exterior smooth it out like body
work. Then I coat the inside with gas tank sealer from Bill Hearsch and it
is good as new .

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Fri May 27 00:29:13 2011
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 27 May 2011 08:29:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Healey_MK4_V8_Prototype_for_sale?=
Message-ID: <MYFASERVER-I6jAGmLq00005bea@myfaServer-I.klm.kk-consulting.com>

Derek,

as far as I know the so-called Healey 4000 had a 4.0 litre 6 cylinder in line engine, but my memories might be wrong.

Eric


Take a look at the ad here

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938

Is this actually correct? We all know about the Healey 4000 with the RR
engine and the sliced and diced chassis and body that was 4 inches wider,
but whats the story behind this car. Is the ad correct. Just interested.

Derek

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Fri May 27 00:49:07 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 08:49:07 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <005301cc1c1d$afe96680$0fbc3380$@mindspring.com>
References: <BANLkTinPFYgfnkoE3frQ0_BaRNERkbBVjw@mail.gmail.com>
	<005301cc1c1d$afe96680$0fbc3380$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimuokmL57-Z=dCBsN7niOhSyBcY2A@mail.gmail.com>

Just like me with a little difference. I told the man NOT to use direct
flame on the tank when soldering (even if it had been washed out). I was not
more than a 100ms away when I was noticed by a big bang that he did not
followed my instructions. Nobody hurt luckily, but the tank was ruined.

Be carefull!

Gergo

2011/5/27 Skip Saunders <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>

> Me too... I've done nearly the same thing.   Only difference for me was
> once
> I got to the ground off exterior step, I took the tank to a radiator place
> and had him solder on some shim material over the holes...the solder flows
> under the shim material to form a thick metal layer over all the area of
> the
> tank which had pinholes... I then applied an electric sander to the edges
> to
> smooth it out like body work, painted and used the Bill Hearsch process to
> coat the inside...has worked for more than 11 years...:-)
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Frederich Ficke
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 10:38 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank
>
> What I do with pin holes on gas tanks is first was the tank out with
> Muritic
> acid then grind off the exterior where the holes are and fill them with JB
> Weld and with an electric sander on the exterior smooth it out like body
> work. Then I coat the inside with gas tank sealer from Bill Hearsch and it
> is good as new .
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Fri May 27 05:50:11 2011
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 07:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Woody on eBay
Message-ID: <3B7C3635B92B489D9A13505A051C007B@your4dacd0ea75>

The Healey Woody is progressing nicely in the bidding  - now at $115,377.00
USD.

Would Patrick , or one of the other "real" Healey experts, explain what the
three thingies on thee wheels are?  They look like three valve stems ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Healey-Woodie-/160591131241?pt=US_Cars_Trucks

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri May 27 06:08:28 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 07:08:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Woody on eBay
In-Reply-To: <3B7C3635B92B489D9A13505A051C007B@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <3B7C3635B92B489D9A13505A051C007B@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <5FE7FF1ADDD0447AB2DBD90FEDC10EFA@GregPC>

Scroll down through the pics to the "before" pic.  Notice the duct tape in 
the lower right hand corner, the proverbial "all that was holding it 
together..."

Greg Lemon

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 27 06:28:14 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 08:28:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
References: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com><6.2.3.4.2.20110524183746.04e1f760@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<E1QPKHk-00049S-Jg@alpha.look.ca>
Message-ID: <000b01cc1c69$8f3830f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Barry,   in most cases the alum.  adds a reflective heat surface to the 
Dynamat  Extreme, depending on how the material is installed in the car.  In 
most cases the alum side is installed away from the heat factor(floors) in 
our cars so that sort of cancels the reflective idea.  However it also adds 
a smooth non tacky side to the Dynamat Extreme so carpet and other items 
don't stick to it when hot.   And of course there is the noise insulating 
characteristic that Dyn Ext. and your product add.  That characteristic 
should be about the same between the 2 products, IMHO.

I used the Dyn. Ext. and notice a huge sound deadening effect especially 
when you add the carpet pad and the carpet over the  D. E.  Very pleasing 
effect.

As for the tar paper,  that is just for originality.  That was all they add 
back in the early car days so that was used on the floors and firewall. 
Seems
like very little R value there to me.

My 2 cents,   Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>; "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] question about interior firewall


>I am not sure why tar paper.  The stuff I get from the roofing
> people, which is exactly the same as Dynamat but $1.30 against $11
> per sqft. has an aluminium foil topside.  If I am missing something
> please let me know - but why tar paper I want to know.
>
>
> At 09:39 PM 5/24/2011, john spaur wrote:
>>Put them in afterwards or be very careful when spreading the glue.
>>BTW, David Nock applies Dynamat under the tar paper. I just applied
>>the tar paper.
>>
>>John
/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 27 06:46:28 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 08:46:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief spring
References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4DE@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>,
	<20110527023942.24422.qmail@server278.com>
	<0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE602B1B06A4DF@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>
Message-ID: <001201cc1c6c$196c10a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I don't have a lot of help for you on the spring size.  We can only hope 
that the manufacture had it together on their measurements and part quality. 
You may want to shoot an email to Dave Nock if you haven't heard from him 
yet.

You may have picked up from the archives that the spring tension can be a 
bear when reinstalling.   If you don't have the engine out, then an 
assistant may be of some help.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Williams, Allen" <awill at ccs.ua.edu>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief spring


> Thanks for the reply. I went back and did a search in the archives (which 
> I
> should have done before asking the question) so I better understand the 
> issue.
> I saw mention of shorter than stock springs, so I gather it's typical of 
> that
> product. That's no problem as long as it holds to 60 psi. But, if it has
> lighter compressive force and opens at, say, 40psi. would that not be an
> issue? Conjecture, of course. The bottom line for me is if no one has a
> problem with them, I'm OK with using it.
>
> ________________________________________
> From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net [healeymanjim at hansencc.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 9:39 PM
> To: Williams, Allen
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief spring
>
> the pressure relief valve only works when the oil is cold and it opens to
> allow bypass and keeps the pressure at approx 60psi. once the oil gets 
> warm
> enough to drop below 60psi the valve closes, never to enter the oil 
> pressure
> equation again unless  the pressure rises above 60 psi for some obscure
> reason.  it is like a thermostat; once open it no effect on termperature
> except to keep the temp from falling below the set value.  hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 27 07:05:21 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 09:05:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank
References: <BANLkTinPFYgfnkoE3frQ0_BaRNERkbBVjw@mail.gmail.com><005301cc1c1d$afe96680$0fbc3380$@mindspring.com>
	<BANLkTimuokmL57-Z=dCBsN7niOhSyBcY2A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002501cc1c6e$bd8b3920$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

This is a case of knowing you have a problem and taking care of it once and 
for all, rather than wondering if the
problem was fixed or if there is still an issue with you repair.

A new tank gives you that feeling of knowing the job was taken care of in 
the tank area.  If
you decide to just repair the tank, then any further smell or fuel problem 
could still be coming from your
repair job instead of being able to move on to a different area to trouble 
shoot.  I installed
a Moss unit rather than repair my old one and feel that the time and money 
saved in the fix and repair products,
 made up for the initial expense of a new tank.  It was good insurance for 
me knowing that
my fuel problems were taken care of in that area.

Playing with fuel problems can be a very
smelly, dangerous and ongoing undertaking,  if not done correctly. You 
better know what your
doing or it will continue for a long time.

Again,  just my 2 cents,   Mark

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Fri May 27 09:15:50 2011
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 16:15:50 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <002501cc1c6e$bd8b3920$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <BANLkTinPFYgfnkoE3frQ0_BaRNERkbBVjw@mail.gmail.com><005301cc1c1d$afe96680$0fbc3380$@mindspring.com>
	<BANLkTimuokmL57-Z=dCBsN7niOhSyBcY2A@mail.gmail.com>
	<002501cc1c6e$bd8b3920$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <000301cc1c80$f6f90bd0$e4eb2370$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Agreed &, if you reckon on outlasting thin steel, go for aluminium? I did
that & now I know that the fuel smell could only come from one of a hundred
other places!
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: 27 May 2011 14:05
To: Austin Healey; Skip Saunders
Cc: Frederich Ficke; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel tank

This is a case of knowing you have a problem and taking care of it once and 
for all, rather than wondering if the
problem was fixed or if there is still an issue with you repair.

A new tank gives you that feeling of knowing the job was taken care of in 
the tank area.  If
you decide to just repair the tank, then any further smell or fuel problem 
could still be coming from your
repair job instead of being able to move on to a different area to trouble 
shoot.  I installed
a Moss unit rather than repair my old one and feel that the time and money 
saved in the fix and repair products,
 made up for the initial expense of a new tank.  It was good insurance for 
me knowing that
my fuel problems were taken care of in that area.

Playing with fuel problems can be a very
smelly, dangerous and ongoing undertaking,  if not done correctly. You 
better know what your
doing or it will continue for a long time.

Again,  just my 2 cents,   Mark
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Fri May 27 09:31:03 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 10:31:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank
In-Reply-To: <002501cc1c6e$bd8b3920$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <BANLkTinPFYgfnkoE3frQ0_BaRNERkbBVjw@mail.gmail.com>
	<005301cc1c1d$afe96680$0fbc3380$@mindspring.com>
	<BANLkTimuokmL57-Z=dCBsN7niOhSyBcY2A@mail.gmail.com>
	<002501cc1c6e$bd8b3920$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikhG_=vb8rCcPun8jsU4MACD3fiZg@mail.gmail.com>

i certainly concur.  a new fuel tank and a new wiring harness along with
normal maintenance  goes a long way toward making a Healey bullet-proof.
cheers,
jerry

On Fri, May 27, 2011 at 8:05 AM, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> This is a case of knowing you have a problem and taking care of it once and
> for all, rather than wondering if the
> problem was fixed or if there is still an issue with you repair.
>
> A new tank gives you that feeling of knowing the job was taken care of in
> the tank area.  If
> you decide to just repair the tank, then any further smell or fuel problem
> could still be coming from your
> repair job instead of being able to move on to a different area to trouble
> shoot.  I installed
> a Moss unit rather than repair my old one and feel that the time and money
> saved in the fix and repair products,
> made up for the initial expense of a new tank.  It was good insurance for
> me knowing that
> my fuel problems were taken care of in that area.
>
> Playing with fuel problems can be a very
> smelly, dangerous and ongoing undertaking,  if not done correctly. You
> better know what your
> doing or it will continue for a long time.
>
> Again,  just my 2 cents,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From barrie at look.ca  Fri May 27 09:09:48 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 11:09:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
In-Reply-To: <000b01cc1c69$8f3830f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <BANLkTimeQNCJjaihURFKdhuSrx8FGaK_Pg@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110524183746.04e1f760@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<E1QPKHk-00049S-Jg@alpha.look.ca>
	<000b01cc1c69$8f3830f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <E1QPz60-00082g-As@epsilon.look.ca>

Mark,

I notice you say "should be about the same" so you must have missed 
my point.  Dynamat and roofing stuff is exactly the same - so "should 
be about the same" should read "are exactly the same".  Sorry to be 
so picky but I hate to see people being ripped off.  $11 per sqft 
instead of $1.30 is just too much !!  My floor in the MGB is one 
piece including up the sides.  So I have a beautiful clean shiny 
aluminium seamless finish that will hold water up to inches deep!!



At 08:28 AM 5/27/2011, Mark LaPierre wrote:
>Barry,   in most cases the alum.  adds a reflective heat surface to 
>the Dynamat  Extreme, depending on how the material is installed in 
>the car.  In most cases the alum side is installed away from the 
>heat factor(floors) in our cars so that sort of cancels the 
>reflective idea.  However it also adds a smooth non tacky side to 
>the Dynamat Extreme so carpet and other items don't stick to it when 
>hot.   And of course there is the noise insulating characteristic 
>that Dyn Ext. and your product add.  That characteristic should be 
>about the same between the 2 products, IMHO.
>
>I used the Dyn. Ext. and notice a huge sound deadening effect 
>especially when you add the carpet pad and the carpet over the  D. 
>E.  Very pleasing effect.
>
>As for the tar paper,  that is just for originality.  That was all 
>they add back in the early car days so that was used on the floors 
>and firewall. Seems
>like very little R value there to me.
>
>My 2 cents,   Mark
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
>To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>; "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 3:50 PM
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] question about interior firewall
>
>
>>I am not sure why tar paper.  The stuff I get from the roofing
>>people, which is exactly the same as Dynamat but $1.30 against $11
>>per sqft. has an aluminium foil topside.  If I am missing something
>>please let me know - but why tar paper I want to know.
>>
>>
>>At 09:39 PM 5/24/2011, john spaur wrote:
>>>Put them in afterwards or be very careful when spreading the glue.
>>>BTW, David Nock applies Dynamat under the tar paper. I just applied
>>>the tar paper.
>>>
>>>John
>/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From dan at warner-associates.com  Fri May 27 09:49:56 2011
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 10:49:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] matching
In-Reply-To: <98F6FB93A3BD4EC4AED2C3FACAB13C9C@GregPC>
References: <BD8E59870829124FB84CFF54C733D8121D5A6DA7FA@EMBXA.ad.wku.edu>
	<98F6FB93A3BD4EC4AED2C3FACAB13C9C@GregPC>
Message-ID: <1F14CA24AA624FCA977D36999AAAC854@DANSTROM>

I stayed positive ground but the prior owner had gone negative with an
original radio he could not figure why did not work.  When I had the car
apart I notice a polarity switch on the back or side that said
positive/negative so you could go either way and still use your original
radio as well.  He ran the car more than a few years as negative ground and
then I switched back.  Radio works fine.
Dan



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 12:38 AM
To: White, Stephen; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] matching

I don't think you have much to worry about, the rest of the ancillary 
electrics don't "care" if they are positive or negative ground, lights 
doesn't matter, heater blower motor doesn't matter,  wipers, blinkers ditto.

If you have a modern radio this will be an issue as it will be negative 
ground, if it has an original period radio probably positive, but worth 
checking (not sure how, unless it has a polarity switch or is marked on the 
outside somewhere).

The coil will work both ways, but better if the small "+"  "-" wires are 
hooked up right, if this is part of the motor with "generator everything" 
that has been set up positive earth you should be there too.

So the only thing you might blow up is your radio, if you don't have one you

should be able to just hook the battery up positive ground and you will be 
good to go.

Later cars have an eletric tach which needs to be worked on too, but yours 
is still mechanical, so OK.

Greg Lemon
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com

From dan at warner-associates.com  Fri May 27 09:57:38 2011
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 10:57:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <9D820272-F641-4F82-A3CA-D7FC151E065A@sbcglobal.net>
References: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com><805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14><E1QPhDe-0005Er-PU@iota.look.ca><6.2.3.4.2.20110526135241.0209dcd8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<9D820272-F641-4F82-A3CA-D7FC151E065A@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <F186CFEF93FE46EAB5EE5875E7065799@DANSTROM>

Tank Re New is a national chain that will refurbish the original tank inside
and out for about $250.  I have done 2 tanks and they both came out perfect
and have been in use for a number of years.  No screen in the Healey tank
but he did mention some baffles near the gauge as I recall.  Never a fit
issue when you use the originals.
Dan


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 5:44 PM
To: john spaur
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?

We have cut open several original tanks and have not found one with a  
screen on the pick up. The pick up tube comes straight down and make  
a 90 degree bend and then goes under a plate attached to the bottom  
of the tank.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 26, 2011, at 1:55 PM, john spaur wrote:

> The pickup tube inside an original tank has a plastic cage with a  
> screen. Coating the inside can clog the screen.
>
> The new Moss tank is around $250 if not less plus shipping. I am  
> not trying to promote Moss but it is really a nice tank.
>
> John Spaur
> BT7
>
> At 04:01 PM 5/26/2011 -0400, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>> My Aston tank was awful and had pin holes all along the back
>> end.  Had it done by a rad restoration place and now it is beautiful.
>> Coated inside (white) and outside (Greeny grey and shiny ) - cost  
>> Cdn$250
>>
>>
>> At 09:50 PM 5/25/2011, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:
>> >Buy cheap tank,  powder coat the exterior and use tank sealer  
>> inside.
>> >Tim Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri May 27 10:28:54 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 12:28:54 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Nitriding and cams
Message-ID: <566bc.6fe77f91.3b112b46@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/27/11 5:46:18 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> I know what "nitriding" is. And it will not solve the problem of wiping 
> out
> cam lobes or lifters or both.
> 
> Richard Mayor
> 

Absolutely true. Any engine builder who is not using molybenum assembly 
grease and high-ZDDP run-in oil is courting cam failure. In fact, if a builder 
has not had cam failure (where the cam contact surface is actually torn to 
pieces), then they are probably using grease with moly and oil with ZDDP 
without even knowing about it. 

Gary

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Fri May 27 11:13:52 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 19:13:52 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Problems fixed - Ready to roll
Message-ID: <BANLkTin1CFSsJ=iKn=FZ-SDgKrxS4UOGuA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all.

Well the brake light issue was a faulty switch. A new one has been installed
so alls well there. Full marks to those who blamed low voltage/lack of use
 for the indicators being frozen. All I did was spray some WD 40 on the
connections before I went for another test drive. Eventually they just
started working again. That was yesterday and they are still fine today.

The car is all loaded up and Ive a acquired a few cheap tools and safety
stuff such as triangles and a fire extinguisher so we are all set to roll
tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed.

cheers

Derek

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Fri May 27 11:20:55 2011
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 13:20:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari?
Message-ID: <CCAE3E4F-7ACC-4ECA-9911-768022CB329E@mac.com>

I know that this is the home of british car people, but I am wondering if any of you can be of help? I was in London a few weeks ago and having dinner in an Italian restaurant named Pescatori's (very good by the way). They have a series of framed photos on the wall on the way to the rest rooms (sorry if this is getting too graphic for some of you), including the one referenced below:

https://files.me.com/linwoodrose/d1mjtu

I have never seen this Ferrari - I am assuming that it is a Ferrari, but who knows? If it is a Ferrari can anyone identify the model?  

Thanks so much.

Lin

Lin Rose
1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body.
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have it!
1964 Jag MKII - current project

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 26 20:24:51 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 19:24:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <9D820272-F641-4F82-A3CA-D7FC151E065A@sbcglobal.net>
References: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
	<E1QPhDe-0005Er-PU@iota.look.ca>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110526135241.0209dcd8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<9D820272-F641-4F82-A3CA-D7FC151E065A@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110526192240.02081460@pop.att.yahoo.com>


From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 27 14:09:10 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 16:09:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
References: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com><805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14><E1QPhDe-0005Er-PU@iota.look.ca><6.2.3.4.2.20110526135241.0209dcd8@pop.att.yahoo.com><9D820272-F641-4F82-A3CA-D7FC151E065A@sbcglobal.net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110526192240.02081460@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001c01cc1ca9$f1f640c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I'm not sure how to answer this question.


Where is the question by the way.

John we have told you that you have to include the question before you hit 
the send
button.   ))))

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?


>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Fri May 27 15:20:52 2011
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 16:20:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Problems fixed - Ready to roll
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTin1CFSsJ=iKn=FZ-SDgKrxS4UOGuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTin1CFSsJ=iKn=FZ-SDgKrxS4UOGuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=+NEb1PYQZeUDybivFHKWq8MxXOA@mail.gmail.com>

BON VOYAGE !!
cheers,
jerry

On Fri, May 27, 2011 at 12:13 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi all.
>
> Well the brake light issue was a faulty switch. A new one has been
> installed
> so alls well there. Full marks to those who blamed low voltage/lack of use
>  for the indicators being frozen. All I did was spray some WD 40 on the
> connections before I went for another test drive. Eventually they just
> started working again. That was yesterday and they are still fine today.
>
> The car is all loaded up and Ive a acquired a few cheap tools and safety
> stuff such as triangles and a fire extinguisher so we are all set to roll
> tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed.
>
> cheers
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From jarowe at westnet.com.au  Fri May 27 16:34:08 2011
From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 08:34:08 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Woody on eBay
References: <3B7C3635B92B489D9A13505A051C007B@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <5E58DF3830E449F485F8643EAFF8C495@AMRNETBOOK>

Good Morning gentlemen


Those three thingies on the rims are studs to place wheel weights over. The 
wheel weights are like a thick washers.

regards from sunny Cairns (0n the Great Barier Reef)
not driving my 'real' Healey

John Rowe



---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dallas Congleton" <dcongleton at embarqmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2011 9:50 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Woody on eBay


> The Healey Woody is progressing nicely in the bidding  - now at 
> $115,377.00
> USD.
>
> Would Patrick , or one of the other "real" Healey experts, explain what 
> the
> three thingies on thee wheels are?  They look like three valve stems ?

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri May 27 17:36:32 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 09:36:32 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Woody on eBay
In-Reply-To: <3B7C3635B92B489D9A13505A051C007B@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <3B7C3635B92B489D9A13505A051C007B@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <87467410BE2A4F759CBF73DF6FD03810@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Dallas

As John Rowe said they are weights for wheel balancing. On my Duncan bodied
Healey each wheel as 3 small holes in the outer facing rim for an extending
stud that special washers are placed on.

Then over the washers is an inverted cup that covers the washers. The cup is
held on by a small screw that screws into the stud.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

Ps Managed to get the cylinder head off the AH after removing the overdrive
throttle switch. Progress!

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dallas Congleton
Sent: Friday, 27 May 2011 9:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Woody on eBay

The Healey Woody is progressing nicely in the bidding  - now at $115,377.00
USD.

Would Patrick , or one of the other "real" Healey experts, explain what the
three thingies on thee wheels are?  They look like three valve stems ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Healey-Woodie-/160591131241?pt=US_Cars_Trucks
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Fri May 27 19:39:13 2011
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 21:39:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w19565682BAA1C2E6569A8C5790@phx.gbl>

Derek - That is the real deal!!!

check Chatter June 1989  - there are photos of the same 3500 Mk IV
convertiable

this must be the only  prototype

jim



> Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:47:34 +0200
> From: derek.c.job at gmail.com
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
>
> Take a look at the ad here
>
> http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938
>
> Is this actually correct? We all know about the Healey 4000 with the RR
> engine and the sliced and diced chassis and body that was 4 inches wider,
> but whats the story behind this car. Is the ad correct. Just interested.
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri May 27 20:17:13 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 19:17:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <CA056E01.C8F7%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
References: <CA056E01.C8F7%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimDMm5YgG6DQDgt3pzLuhX7rbeuhg@mail.gmail.com>

Would like to see some photos,
I still need to bolt down my tranny mounts and drive shaft. New wire harness
this weekend, carbs back in two weeks, then hook up and restart car for
first time in 20 months, when we started this project.  Still lots to do,
but a lot has been completed.
Good luck with recovery. Do your exercises

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 27, 2011 12:04 PM, "Thomas Morrione" <tjmorrio at colby.edu> wrote:
> Ira b9 fwiw b9 I put my grommets in after I put on durmat and the
tarpaper.
It
> worked ok in all but two of the cases where I didnB9t cut holes quite large
> enough b9 suggest just eyeball it and see if thereB9s any likelihood that
> youB9ll not be able to put the grommet in without more trimming. I did put
> the couple of balk gromment/plugs in before I put on the duramat. Forgot
> which those were though. Have just had knee replacement last week and am
> laid up or would go look further.
>
> Have enjoyed your chronicle of rebuild b9 am about to put in redone
> engine/trans/od this summer and move my project along/
>
> Best,
> Tom

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri May 27 22:31:14 2011
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 21:31:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari?
In-Reply-To: <CCAE3E4F-7ACC-4ECA-9911-768022CB329E@mac.com>
Message-ID: <49984.76342.qm@web111407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Lin
    The photo looks compressed in the horizontal.  That makes it hard to be
sure but I think the car with no body panels is the shark nose F-1 car.  I
think model 156 but I'm bad with numbers.  The other car looks like a TR-60 or
TR-61 early rear engine sports racer.  The head rest and fin are unfamiliar to
me.  Both cars from 1960 or 1961 Enzo is the fellow in the middle.  I'm sure
some of our resident historians can add more.
Regards
Ray Juncal

--- On Fri, 5/27/11, Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com> wrote:

From: Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari?
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>, saloons at jag-lovers.org
Date: Friday, May 27, 2011, 10:20 AM

I know that this is the home of british car people, but I am wondering if any
of you can be of help? I was in London a few weeks ago and having dinner in an
Italian restaurant named Pescatori's (very good by the way). They have a
series of framed photos on the wall on the way to the rest rooms (sorry if
this is getting too graphic for some of you), including the one referenced
below:

https://files.me.com/linwoodrose/d1mjtu

I have never seen this Ferrari - I am assuming that it is a Ferrari, but who
knows? If it is a Ferrari can anyone identify the model? 

Thanks so much.

Lin

Lin Rose
1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body.
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have
it!
1964 Jag MKII - current project
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Fri May 27 22:43:11 2011
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 04:43:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari?
In-Reply-To: <CCAE3E4F-7ACC-4ECA-9911-768022CB329E@mac.com>
References: <CCAE3E4F-7ACC-4ECA-9911-768022CB329E@mac.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W122E449CD3C630DFC71B64D1790@phx.gbl>

Lin:
I have looked in some of my oldest books I have of Ferraris and the car on the
left appear to be a Formula 1 car without its full bodywork, likely a 156F1,
from 1961 like the one driven by Phil Hill when he won his championship, the
rollbar gave that one away.
The car on the right appears to be a 268P as similar cars were entered for the
1962 Targa Florio but this one appears to have a cover behind the driver side
while those entered in the Targa Florio did not. However the rest of the rear
section, including the two "air vent" are the same. This is what I have found
but perhaps those who know these cars better may prvide you with more exact
answers.

Jean Caron

> From: linwoodrose at mac.com
> Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 13:20:55 -0400
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; saloons at jag-lovers.org
> Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari?
>
> I know that this is the home of british car people, but I am wondering if
any of you can be of help? I was in London a few weeks ago and having dinner
in an Italian restaurant named Pescatori's (very good by the way). They have a
series of framed photos on the wall on the way to the rest rooms (sorry if
this is getting too graphic for some of you), including the one referenced
below:
>
> https://files.me.com/linwoodrose/d1mjtu
>
> I have never seen this Ferrari - I am assuming that it is a Ferrari, but who
knows? If it is a Ferrari can anyone identify the model?
>
> Thanks so much.
>
> Lin
>
> Lin Rose
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body.
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have
it!
> 1964 Jag MKII - current project
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho
tmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat May 28 00:47:43 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 08:47:43 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <SNT133-w19565682BAA1C2E6569A8C5790@phx.gbl>
References: <BANLkTikaGNrAf7zaz=dBLrRqwo0ZSWUQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT133-w19565682BAA1C2E6569A8C5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DE09A8F.9060006@chello.nl>

Recently I saw an advertisement in a British classic magazine from a 
couple of years ago for HMC, appealingly with a earlier connections with 
Geoffrey Healey. This HMC company made GRP AH replica's and modified 
(widened) versions of which the vehicle on offer is one. There were 
various engine and body options I believe of which the Rover V8 in 
various forms was one.
The level of finish was variable I believe. The version I saw some years 
ago was very well finished and even the paneling was second to none 
which is rare for a fiberglass car.
Kees Oudesluijs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat May 28 05:41:25 2011
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 07:41:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ferrari
Message-ID: <E8220FE8-AE7F-4CC4-A719-1E408BD45B9D@mac.com>

Thanks to everyone who responded concerning the unknown Ferrari. I think Andrea nailed it.
Looks like a 246SP to me.

https://files.me.com/linwoodrose/mvm5ya

Lin

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sat May 28 07:34:53 2011
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 06:34:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <SNT133-w19565682BAA1C2E6569A8C5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <757286.88131.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

What's Chatter.

--- On Fri, 5/27/11, Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> From: Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys]
Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
> To: "derek job" <derek.c.job at gmail.com>,
healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, May 27, 2011, 9:39 PM
> Derek - That is
the real deal!!!
> 
> check Chatter June 1989  - there are photos of the
>
same 3500 Mk IV
> convertiable
> 
> this must be the only  prototype
> 
> jim
> 
> 
> 
> > Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:47:34 +0200
> > From:
derek.c.job at gmail.com
> > To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys]
Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
> >
> > Take a look at the ad here
> >
> >
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938
> >
> > Is this actually correct?
We all know about the Healey
> 4000 with the RR
> > engine and the sliced and
diced chassis and body that
> was 4 inches wider,
> > but whats the story
behind this car. Is the ad
> correct. Just interested.
> >
> > Derek
> >
_______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> >
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
>
_______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Sat May 28 08:14:26 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 16:14:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Cars with speed
Message-ID: <4DE10342.9030609@bredband.net>

Hi
Last weekend we attended a little course, education, instruction, well 
call it what you like, an event where we were able to get to know our 
vehicles in tracklike circumstances, without the disturbance of normal 
traffic. With a proper instructor who tought us to attack corners in the 
right way and things like that.
The event was arranged by the MG Club over here and they invited people 
from other clubs as well. One of the participants where there with a 
camera. Se this link if you're interested of what we are doing over 
here. http://se.myalbum.com/Inbjudan=PACT7RVB
BTW. The white over blue MkII is yours truly.

Best, Per in Sweden

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sat May 28 08:42:47 2011
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 10:42:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <757286.88131.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <SNT133-w19565682BAA1C2E6569A8C5790@phx.gbl>,
	<757286.88131.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w330E134B88644D9EFE0A2C5790@phx.gbl>

Chatter was the name of the monthly publication of the Austin-Healey Club of
America before the name change to Healey Marque Magazine
.

If anyone is interested  in those issues I have quite a few of those classic
magazines available for new homes. Just contact me off the list for a listing
of issues available.

in particular of August 1995 - Forty Years of Racing History - 100 S with
Donald on the cover sitting in the driver's seat of Bill Emerson's S back in
1985


jim



> Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 06:34:53 -0700
> From: gmandas at yahoo.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
>
> What's Chatter.
>
> --- On Fri, 5/27/11, Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > From: Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys]
> Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
> > To: "derek job" <derek.c.job at gmail.com>,
> healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Friday, May 27, 2011, 9:39 PM
> > Derek - That is
> the real deal!!!
> >
> > check Chatter June 1989 - there are photos of the
> >
> same 3500 Mk IV
> > convertiable
> >
> > this must be the only prototype
> >
> > jim
> >
> >
> >
> > > Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:47:34 +0200
> > > From:
> derek.c.job at gmail.com
> > > To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Healeys]
> Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
> > >
> > > Take a look at the ad here
> > >
> > >
> http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938
> > >
> > > Is this actually correct?
> We all know about the Healey
> > 4000 with the RR
> > > engine and the sliced and
> diced chassis and body that
> > was 4 inches wider,
> > > but whats the story
> behind this car. Is the ad
> > correct. Just interested.
> > >
> > > Derek
> > >
> _______________________________________________
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > >
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
> >
> _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> >
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Sat May 28 08:50:40 2011
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 07:50:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Cars with speed
In-Reply-To: <4DE10342.9030609@bredband.net>
References: <4DE10342.9030609@bredband.net>
Message-ID: <361918.32221.qm@web83902.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Our local Midwest Region AHC club is arranging a similar event  August 5th
at 
Blackhawk Farms Raceway, in South Beloit, IL

We are inviting all vintage
British car owners to participate.
Contact Bill Cantrall
(cantrall at wrcresearch.com ) for information.
________________________________

Hi
Last weekend we attended a little course,
education, instruction, well call it 
what you like, an event where we were
able to get to know our vehicles in 
tracklike circumstances, without the
disturbance of normal traffic. With a 
proper instructor who tought us to
attack corners in the right way and things 
like that.
The event was arranged
by the MG Club over here and they invited people from 
other clubs as well.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat May 28 08:51:35 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 22:51:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
In-Reply-To: <757286.88131.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <SNT133-w19565682BAA1C2E6569A8C5790@phx.gbl>
	<757286.88131.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTim1Ht5xDA5uaQ62eXfRLz5=UB_miA@mail.gmail.com>

It was the name of the magazine for the AH club of America.

On 5/28/11, Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com> wrote:
> What's Chatter.
>
> --- On Fri, 5/27/11, Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> From: Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys]
> Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
>> To: "derek job" <derek.c.job at gmail.com>,
> healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Friday, May 27, 2011, 9:39 PM
>> Derek - That is
> the real deal!!!
>>
>> check Chatter June 1989  - there are photos of the
>>
> same 3500 Mk IV
>> convertiable
>>
>> this must be the only  prototype
>>
>> jim
>>
>>
>>
>> > Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:47:34 +0200
>> > From:
> derek.c.job at gmail.com
>> > To: Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > Subject: [Healeys]
> Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
>> >
>> > Take a look at the ad here
>> >
>> >
> http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938
>> >
>> > Is this actually correct?
> We all know about the Healey
>> 4000 with the RR
>> > engine and the sliced and
> diced chassis and body that
>> was 4 inches wider,
>> > but whats the story
> behind this car. Is the ad
>> correct. Just interested.
>> >
>> > Derek
>> >
> _______________________________________________
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> >
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat May 28 09:47:43 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 08:47:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTim1Ht5xDA5uaQ62eXfRLz5=UB_miA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <938744.98679.qm@web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Bonus points for answering how it got its name!

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 5/28/11, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
To: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, May 28, 2011, 10:51 AM

It was the name of the magazine for the AH club of America.

On 5/28/11, Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com> wrote:
> What's Chatter.
>
> --- On Fri, 5/27/11, Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> From: Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys]
> Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
>> To: "derek job" <derek.c.job at gmail.com>,
> healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Friday, May 27, 2011, 9:39 PM
>> Derek - That is
> the real deal!!!
>>
>> check Chatter June 1989  - there are photos of the
>>
> same 3500 Mk IV
>> convertiable
>>
>> this must be the only  prototype
>>
>> jim
>>
>>
>>
>> > Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 22:47:34 +0200
>> > From:
> derek.c.job at gmail.com
>> > To: Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > Subject: [Healeys]
> Healey MK4 V8 Prototype for sale
>> >
>> > Take a look at the ad here
>> >
>> >
> http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C181938
>> >
>> > Is this actually correct?
> We all know about the Healey
>> 4000 with the RR
>> > engine and the sliced and
> diced chassis and body that
>> was 4 inches wider,
>> > but whats the story
> behind this car. Is the ad
>> correct. Just interested.
>> >
>> > Derek
>> >
> _______________________________________________
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> >
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>

--
Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sat May 28 13:36:26 2011
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 15:36:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
Message-ID: <SNT133-w645DD8186F5C325F8B2796C5790@phx.gbl>

Chatter was attributed to Chuck Anderson, who thought the engine noise from
the cam and valves led to the impression that it was talking to you

jim

From healey62 at satx.rr.com  Sat May 28 16:41:59 2011
From: healey62 at satx.rr.com (Jay Baker)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 17:41:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <SNT133-w645DD8186F5C325F8B2796C5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <25.A8.03893.53A71ED4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Wow!  I've been wrong all these years.  I thought "Chatter" came from the
noise the gear shift lever makes.  Jay 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Lesher
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 2:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter

Chatter was attributed to Chuck Anderson, who thought the engine noise from
the cam and valves led to the impression that it was talking to you

jim
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Sat May 28 18:44:09 2011
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 17:44:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt  engines
Message-ID: <123310.47537.qm@web121816.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Nitriding is a process that hardens the surface of the cam. It is a very
durable surface with a high resistance to wear. Many cams when being re
profiled are not tested by the company doing the re profiling. the correct
Rockwell harness for the cam is 55 Rockwell as are the lifters. I have seen
cams after being cut with Rockwell harness of 8. Anything under 55 Rockwell is
not acceptable and will cause premature wear. Camshafts have been wearing out
long before they removed zddp from oil. Generally cam failure is the result of
dirty oil or soft metal-cams. Lubrication is very important in cam longevity
as are the other elements discussed.
We have had good success with the nitraded cam.

Happy Healeying, 
  Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Tue, 5/24/11, healeymanjim at hansencc.net <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
wrote:

From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
To: "Martin Jansen" <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com>
Received: Tuesday, May 24, 2011, 11:15 PM

what is nitrating and what does it do to the camshaft?  hjim


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Martin Jansen <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com>
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys] Start-up, oil filters, and rebuilt engines
>  Sent: May 24 '11 23:02
> 
>  We nitrate camshafts to resolve the zddp problem and oils We offer these on
an
>  exchange program.
> 
>  Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
>  _______________________________________________
>  Healeys at autox.team.net
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeymanjim at hansencc.net
> 

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Sat May 28 19:06:06 2011
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 18:06:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
Message-ID: <465444.38964.qm@web112515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 
 
The Chatter got its name from the clutch chatter that the bif Healeys have.
Patrick
 
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 08:47:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
To: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net, Alan
    Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
Message-ID: <938744.98679.qm at web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Bonus points for answering how it got its name!

Rick

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat May 28 19:16:00 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 18:16:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <465444.38964.qm@web112515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <465444.38964.qm@web112515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=RNjf0NdNJKgoufh9gbO6XgO-+ag@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone else have a guess?  Anyone know for sure?

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 28, 2011 6:12 PM, "Patrick Yoas" <pyoas at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> The Chatter got its name from the clutch chatter that the bif Healeys
have.
> Patrick
>
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 08:47:43 -0700 (PDT)
> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> To: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net, Alan
> Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
> Message-ID: <938744.98679.qm at web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Bonus points for answering how it got its name!
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat May 28 19:41:55 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 18:41:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=RNjf0NdNJKgoufh9gbO6XgO-+ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <925483.1772.qm@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Valve train "Chatter" is the winner.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 5/28/11, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

From: I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter
To: "Patrick Yoas" <pyoas at yahoo.com>
Cc: "Healey Forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, May 28, 2011, 9:16 PM

Anyone else have a guess?  Anyone know for sure?

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 28, 2011 6:12 PM, "Patrick Yoas" <pyoas at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> The Chatter got its name from the clutch chatter that the bif Healeys
have.
> Patrick
>
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 08:47:43 -0700 (PDT)
> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> To: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net, Alan
> Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
> Message-ID: <938744.98679.qm at web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Bonus points for answering how it got its name!
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Sat May 28 20:32:18 2011
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 22:32:18 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
Message-ID: <ce0a.3ebe93e5.3b130a32@aol.com>

Another trivia question - How did the term Conclave become the name of our  
National Meet
 
Jim  Werner
Louisville, Kentucky  

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sat May 28 21:09:15 2011
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 23:09:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <ce0a.3ebe93e5.3b130a32@aol.com>
References: <ce0a.3ebe93e5.3b130a32@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w54BE81EBBE5D3348ED04C0C5780@phx.gbl>

Walt Blank came up with the name  Conclave back in 1975 from an old Boy Scout
term

jim


> From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 22:32:18 -0400
> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com; pyoas at yahoo.com; eyera3 at gmail.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter
>
> Another trivia question - How did the term Conclave become the name of our
> National Meet
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, Kentucky
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Sat May 28 21:35:37 2011
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 23:35:37 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
Message-ID: <1ad15.50caf781.3b131909@aol.com>

Correct answer - it is commonly used as the term for the meeting when they  
elect a new pope
 
Jim  Werner
Louisville, Kentucky  

 
In a message dated 5/28/2011 11:09:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cleona44 at hotmail.com writes:

Walt  Blank came up with the name  Conclave back in 1975 from an old Boy 
Scout  term

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat May 28 22:17:50 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 21:17:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <1ad15.50caf781.3b131909@aol.com>
References: <1ad15.50caf781.3b131909@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinB=4c82fHKkf23a15fHRdXMweiXQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all that was fun.
So why do Brits call a wrench a spanner?

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 28, 2011 8:35 PM, <Jwhlyadv at aol.com> wrote:
> Correct answer - it is commonly used as the term for the meeting when they

> elect a new pope
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, Kentucky
>
>
> In a message dated 5/28/2011 11:09:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> cleona44 at hotmail.com writes:
>
> Walt Blank came up with the name Conclave back in 1975 from an old Boy
> Scout term

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat May 28 23:19:02 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 22:19:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinB=4c82fHKkf23a15fHRdXMweiXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1ad15.50caf781.3b131909@aol.com>
	<BANLkTinB=4c82fHKkf23a15fHRdXMweiXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6CE487FD33F94C339E6F0B46F71DFDA7@LeonardPCPC>

Ira:  Maybe the Brits would prefer to see the question reversed.  Why do we 
Yanks call a spanner a wrench?  It will be interesting to see the responses 
in either case.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
To: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
Cc: <pyoas at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter


> Thanks to all that was fun.
> So why do Brits call a wrench a spanner?
>
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 Solutions
> Portland, OR

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat May 28 23:21:27 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 00:21:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinB=4c82fHKkf23a15fHRdXMweiXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1ad15.50caf781.3b131909@aol.com>
	<BANLkTinB=4c82fHKkf23a15fHRdXMweiXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CF67453BAF0247FB96E6E22737CB9630@GregPC>

I always assumed because the "jaws" span the distance between the opposite 
flats on the nut?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
To: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
Cc: <pyoas at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter


> Thanks to all that was fun.
> So why do Brits call a wrench a spanner?
>
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 Solutions
> Portland, OR
>
> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections 
> because
> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>
> On May 28, 2011 8:35 PM, <Jwhlyadv at aol.com> wrote:
>> Correct answer - it is commonly used as the term for the meeting when 
>> they
>
>> elect a new pope
>>
>> Jim Werner
>> Louisville, Kentucky
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 5/28/2011 11:09:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> cleona44 at hotmail.com writes:
>>
>> Walt Blank came up with the name Conclave back in 1975 from an old Boy
>> Scout term
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun May 29 00:33:41 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 08:33:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimDMm5YgG6DQDgt3pzLuhX7rbeuhg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA056E01.C8F7%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
	<BANLkTimDMm5YgG6DQDgt3pzLuhX7rbeuhg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikweowjwmcGRbM9kG+8-e5EdR7UJg@mail.gmail.com>

I am in about the same situation. Engine, transmission in, new loom wiaiting
to be installed.

Gergo

2011/5/28 I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>

> Would like to see some photos,
> I still need to bolt down my tranny mounts and drive shaft. New wire
> harness
> this weekend, carbs back in two weeks, then hook up and restart car for
> first time in 20 months, when we started this project.  Still lots to do,
> but a lot has been completed.
> Good luck with recovery. Do your exercises
>
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 Solutions
> Portland, OR
>
> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>
> On May 27, 2011 12:04 PM, "Thomas Morrione" <tjmorrio at colby.edu> wrote:
> > Ira b9 fwiw b9 I put my grommets in after I put on durmat and the
> tarpaper.
> It
> > worked ok in all but two of the cases where I didnB9t cut holes quite
> large
> > enough b9 suggest just eyeball it and see if thereB9s any likelihood that
> > youB9ll not be able to put the grommet in without more trimming. I did
> put
> > the couple of balk gromment/plugs in before I put on the duramat. Forgot
> > which those were though. Have just had knee replacement last week and am
> > laid up or would go look further.
> >
> > Have enjoyed your chronicle of rebuild b9 am about to put in redone
> > engine/trans/od this summer and move my project along/
> >
> > Best,
> > Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun May 29 05:12:20 2011
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 21:12:20 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Loud Metallic Click
In-Reply-To: <433E3C71026A4CDC97F7153AEF2AD284@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <993B37B9DA34477FB5CB8C58340B3BAA@PatrickQuinnPC><BANLkTikM1C5=-rPt7qdCEoEvVnruDFE5hQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<433E3C71026A4CDC97F7153AEF2AD284@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <3168DE4E0E6048DEAB131E809D8FBF22@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Listers would recall the loud and expensive noises coming from the engine of
the BN3/1.

The engine is still in the car, but everything hanging off it has now been
removed. Yesterday my eldest son and I removed the cylinder head. It was a
struggle, but once the overdrive throttle switch was removed it was possible
to lift the head, move it sideways and then away from the engine.

At first glance everything appeared as it should be, but looking more
closely today, a 12mm by 5mm piece from the edge of the crown of the No 2
piston was missing. Small bits of aluminium were embedded in the top of the
piston and minor damage was evident in the combustion chamber. The top
compression ring was intact hence the smooth but noisy running.

Watch this space.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

  
On 4/23/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> G'day
>
>
>
> Here is something to get your collective minds around.
>
>
>
> Yesterday morning we were 560 kilometres from home in the BN3 having just
> crossed some many kilometres of featureless plains and semi dessert. We
> arrive in a large town looking for fuel and then suddenly an audible
> clanging sound emanates from the engine. We immediately pull over to
> investigate and despite much head scratching nothing significant can be
> found. I disconnect the fan belt and also eliminate a rocker hitting the
> rocker cover.
>
>
>
> Six and a half hours of sitting in the back seats of a tilt tray truck we
> arrive back home.
>
>
>
> Today I removed the rocker cover and all valves are opening correctly,
plus
> the noise is still there. So what do we think the noise is? Oil pressure
is
> still good, so it probably isn't a slipped big end. It is definitely not
> coming from the gearbox.
>
>
>
> Without taking the engine out, my guess is a broken crankshaft. What's
> yours?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sun May 29 06:11:37 2011
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 08:11:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=RNjf0NdNJKgoufh9gbO6XgO-+ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <465444.38964.qm@web112515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<BANLkTi=RNjf0NdNJKgoufh9gbO6XgO-+ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT133-W59A952908B13D92638A36EC5780@phx.gbl>

My responses have been based on what is documented on p 15 of the June 1991
issue of Chatter titled " Thirtysomething 1958 - 1991"

jim

> Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 18:16:00 -0700
> From: eyera3 at gmail.com
> To: pyoas at yahoo.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter
>
> Anyone else have a guess? Anyone know for sure?
>
> Ira Erbs
> DIGS-4 Solutions
> Portland, OR
>
> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>
> On May 28, 2011 6:12 PM, "Patrick Yoas" <pyoas at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > The Chatter got its name from the clutch chatter that the bif Healeys
> have.
> > Patrick
> >
> > Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 08:47:43 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> > To: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net, Alan
> > Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
> > Message-ID: <938744.98679.qm at web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Bonus points for answering how it got its name!
> >
> > Rick
> > _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

From ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com  Sun May 29 07:06:58 2011
From: ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com (Ralph Steinberg)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 09:06:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
Message-ID: <005d01cc1e01$4cbf2e60$e63d8b20$@com>

I realize that most of you do not own race cars but some of you do or know
someone who does. And since you are on these lists you are into cars so why
not come out to either the PVGP/VRG Historic races at BeaveRun or the
Vintage Grand Prix at Schenley Park or better yet both. For those with legal
vintage race cars we have race groups for anything you may have (vintage
here) For those with big Healeys we have groups at both venues for your cars
in most configurations. There may be a few cases with the big Healey that
you are too modified for Schenley but I doubt it for Beaver. For those with
Spridgets, well we have a couple of classes to run at Beaver and a Spridget
only sprint race and 98% of the Spridgets are legal at Schenley this year.
At Schenley there is one giant British car show to boot so the rest of you
can show off your cars while you watch the racing. At Beaver we do not have
a car show but we have interesting things to do besides wandering the
paddocks and watching the races. The Kart track is open to the public.

All monies raised go to our charities the Autistic Society of Pittsburgh and
the Allegheny School

For more info you can either go to www.cloverleaf-auto.com and click the
vintage racing link or got to www.pvgp.org

Thanks and hope to see you their either as a spectator or participant

 

Ralph Steinberg 

Director of Competition PVGP BeaveRun

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun May 29 07:35:18 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 07:35:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Loud Metallic Click
In-Reply-To: <3168DE4E0E6048DEAB131E809D8FBF22@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <993B37B9DA34477FB5CB8C58340B3BAA@PatrickQuinnPC><BANLkTikM1C5=-rPt7qdCEoEvVnruDFE5hQ@mail.gmail.com><433E3C71026A4CDC97F7153AEF2AD284@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<3168DE4E0E6048DEAB131E809D8FBF22@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <147DD172ADFF4E8DB2EEAAC15A99FDDA@oscar>

..now it will be interesting to learn if it was merely metal fatigue or from
running too much ignition advance. 
Dave
PS you should be able to tell by the edges of the metal.
Sharp/jagged=fatigue or rounded/melted= preignition


frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


To: 'Patrick and Caroline Quinn'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Loud Metallic Click

G'day

Listers would recall the loud and expensive noises coming from the engine of
the BN3/1.

The engine is still in the car, but everything hanging off it has now been
removed. Yesterday my eldest son and I removed the cylinder head. It was a
struggle, but once the overdrive throttle switch was removed it was possible
to lift the head, move it sideways and then away from the engine.

At first glance everything appeared as it should be, but looking more
closely today, a 12mm by 5mm piece from the edge of the crown of the No 2
piston was missing. Small bits of aluminium were embedded in the top of the
piston and minor damage was evident in the combustion chamber. The top
compression ring was intact hence the smooth but noisy running.

Watch this space.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sun May 29 07:40:23 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 23:40:23 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Loud Metallic Click
References: <57A84B1C-F8A6-48AB-87E4-C1366B36D77A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <047F30BB-AF07-4D49-9966-3300B255D93B@gmail.com>

> Ha.
> And that's the difference Patrick!
> It was a tinkeling sound rather than a clicking sound!
> If you'd kept driving, like Wally gates did, or like Steve Byers  
> did, or i did with a Sprite (many years ago), you would have just  
> had a shrapnel dented cylinder head roof and piston!!
> Here is the problem......
> The top ring wears through the alloy piston, and the ring gap is  
> worn and increased. The ring "flutters" in the worn ring groove. The  
> ring breaks, and starts to erode the ring lands above and below, due  
> to increased tolerances.  The ring land above and below it is then  
> eroded to the point of failure. The alloy ring land is no match for  
> the fluttering steel ring.
> Then a chunk of the top (crown) alloy ring land parts company from  
> the piston crown.
> Followed by the broken piece of steel ring.
> Then the clinking starts. The piece of steel ring bouncing around in  
> the combustion chamber.
> Until it exits via the exhaust valve with an obvious clinking. And  
> you hear it all the way down the exhaust system!.
> You just didn't drive it long enough for the clinking!!!!
> What does the top of your combustion chamber/ piston look like???
> Like its been Shot blasted with a square section piston ring??
> At least you know what the noise was Patrick. I still think the  
> other issues will be cam followers/ cam and little ends.
> This issue seems to occur only on cars fitted with new rings fitted  
> to old pistons, when the pistons probably should have been replaced,  
> rather than re ringing.
> Best
> Chris
PS your top ring will be broken.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 29/05/2011, at 9:12 PM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au 
> > wrote:
>
>> G'day
>>
>> Listers would recall the loud and expensive noises coming from the  
>> engine of
>> the BN3/1.
>>
>> The engine is still in the car, but everything hanging off it has  
>> now been
>> removed. Yesterday my eldest son and I removed the cylinder head.  
>> It was a
>> struggle, but once the overdrive throttle switch was removed it was  
>> possible
>> to lift the head, move it sideways and then away from the engine.
>>
>> At first glance everything appeared as it should be, but looking more
>> closely today, a 12mm by 5mm piece from the edge of the crown of  
>> the No 2
>> piston was missing. Small bits of aluminium were embedded in the  
>> top of the
>> piston and minor damage was evident in the combustion chamber. The  
>> top
>> compression ring was intact hence the smooth but noisy running

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Sun May 29 07:50:01 2011
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 09:50:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
In-Reply-To: <005d01cc1e01$4cbf2e60$e63d8b20$@com>
References: <005d01cc1e01$4cbf2e60$e63d8b20$@com>
Message-ID: <4DE24F09.8020508@comcast.net>

Ralph,
I will be driving my BT7 tricarb to the PVGP and British Car Day again 
this year.  I have heard concern from some of the competitors in the 
races of the change in sanctioning bodies for the races at Schenley 
Park.  As a spectator I would hate to see the prewar cars and less 
powerful, smaller cars disappear from the proceedings in favor of larger 
more powerful cars.  The race course itself is actually best suited to 
the smaller cars and lower speeds that they run.  Though I can see the 
need and desire to have some newer cars involved who have been 
heretofore excluded.
What is the official line on this?
Charlie

On 5/29/2011 9:06 AM, Ralph Steinberg wrote:
> I realize that most of you do not own race cars but some of you do or know
> someone who does. And since you are on these lists you are into cars so why
> not come out to either the PVGP/VRG Historic races at BeaveRun or the
> Vintage Grand Prix at Schenley Park or better yet both. For those with legal
> vintage race cars we have race groups for anything you may have (vintage
> here) For those with big Healeys we have groups at both venues for your cars
> in most configurations. There may be a few cases with the big Healey that
> you are too modified for Schenley but I doubt it for Beaver. For those with
> Spridgets, well we have a couple of classes to run at Beaver and a Spridget
> only sprint race and 98% of the Spridgets are legal at Schenley this year.
> At Schenley there is one giant British car show to boot so the rest of you
> can show off your cars while you watch the racing. At Beaver we do not have
> a car show but we have interesting things to do besides wandering the
> paddocks and watching the races. The Kart track is open to the public.
>
> All monies raised go to our charities the Autistic Society of Pittsburgh and
> the Allegheny School
>
> For more info you can either go to www.cloverleaf-auto.com and click the
> vintage racing link or got to www.pvgp.org
>
> Thanks and hope to see you their either as a spectator or participant
>
>
>
> Ralph Steinberg
>
> Director of Competition PVGP BeaveRun
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From barrie at look.ca  Sun May 29 08:24:03 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 10:24:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <CF67453BAF0247FB96E6E22737CB9630@GregPC>
References: <1ad15.50caf781.3b131909@aol.com>
	<BANLkTinB=4c82fHKkf23a15fHRdXMweiXQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CF67453BAF0247FB96E6E22737CB9630@GregPC>
Message-ID: <E1QQgxY-0005KM-L6@theta.look.ca>

The Brits call those tools spanners because it is the English word 
for it and Brits speak English.


At 01:21 AM 5/29/2011, Greg Lemon wrote:
>I always assumed because the "jaws" span the distance between the 
>opposite flats on the nut?
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>To: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
>Cc: <pyoas at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 11:17 PM
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter
>
>
>>Thanks to all that was fun.
>>So why do Brits call a wrench a spanner?
>>
>>Ira Erbs
>>DIGS-4 Solutions
>>Portland, OR
>>
>>sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
>>my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>>
>>On May 28, 2011 8:35 PM, <Jwhlyadv at aol.com> wrote:
>>>Correct answer - it is commonly used as the term for the meeting when they
>>
>>>elect a new pope
>>>
>>>Jim Werner
>>>Louisville, Kentucky
>>>
>>>
>>>In a message dated 5/28/2011 11:09:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>>cleona44 at hotmail.com writes:
>>>
>>>Walt Blank came up with the name Conclave back in 1975 from an old Boy
>>>Scout term
>>_______________________________________________
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com
>_______________________________________________
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Sun May 29 08:37:46 2011
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 10:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
References: <1ad15.50caf781.3b131909@aol.com><BANLkTinB=4c82fHKkf23a15fHRdXMweiXQ@mail.gmail.com><CF67453BAF0247FB96E6E22737CB9630@GregPC>
	<E1QQgxY-0005KM-L6@theta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <E2B82F6E8E13404D88E76A1C45D5E972@your4dacd0ea75>

Actually it is from the German word spannen to stretch, span  :^)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie at look.ca>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>; "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>; 
<Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
Cc: <pyoas at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter


> The Brits call those tools spanners because it is the English word for it 
> and Brits speak English.
>
>
> At 01:21 AM 5/29/2011, Greg Lemon wrote:
>>I always assumed because the "jaws" span the distance between the opposite 
>>flats on the nut?
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>>To: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
>>Cc: <pyoas at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 11:17 PM
>>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter
>>
>>
>>>Thanks to all that was fun.
>>>So why do Brits call a wrench a spanner?

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Sun May 29 09:00:31 2011
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 08:00:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What did you find in your barn find?  Dead animals?
Message-ID: <68DE0CA79B0C4B7EBDF84E5433E3E5DD@JerryPC>

We were given a car a few weeks ago.  It actually was not a barn find, but a
patio find.  It was stored outside for 20 years under a patio.  We started
stripping out the 1 inch orange shag carpet and found a dead cat skeleton in
the passenger foot well.  One of our other club members had a similar find,
but it was a possum.
Who found the weirdest animal?

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun May 29 09:11:55 2011
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 11:11:55 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
Message-ID: <d9f2c.3b7f8b9c.3b13bc3b@aol.com>

FWIW It certainly appears that some Listers have forgotten that when you  
change the Subject [Healeys] Chatter to a new subject  I.E. 'Spanner" that 
the subject should be changed also.
Just my $.02 worth. 
Marion
 
 
In a message dated 5/29/2011 10:44:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dcongleton at embarqmail.com writes:
 
("Actually it is from the German word spannen to stretch, span   :^)

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun May 29 10:35:07 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 09:35:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <d9f2c.3b7f8b9c.3b13bc3b@aol.com>
References: <d9f2c.3b7f8b9c.3b13bc3b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimyTZE335QtUxrc7yNzFyzUyTsyBA@mail.gmail.com>

Fair enough

Ira Erbs
DIGS-4 Solutions
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 29, 2011 8:15 AM, <MBran89793 at aol.com> wrote:
> FWIW It certainly appears that some Listers have forgotten that when you
> change the Subject [Healeys] Chatter to a new subject I.E. 'Spanner" that
> the subject should be changed also.
> Just my $.02 worth.
> Marion
>
>
> In a message dated 5/29/2011 10:44:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> dcongleton at embarqmail.com writes:
>
> ("Actually it is from the German word spannen to stretch, span :^)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Sun May 29 11:22:12 2011
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 10:22:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chatter
In-Reply-To: <SNT133-w54BE81EBBE5D3348ED04C0C5780@phx.gbl>
References: <ce0a.3ebe93e5.3b130a32@aol.com>
	<SNT133-w54BE81EBBE5D3348ED04C0C5780@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DE280C4.1050304@pacbell.net>

Hmmm. Are you saying that replaced Jamboree?

Bill
'53 BN1
'61 BT7
-- When I was younger, I could remember anything whether it had happened 
or not. But now my facilities are decaying and soon I shall be so I 
cannot remember anything but the things that never happened. - Mark Twain

On 5/28/2011 8:09 PM, Jim Lesher wrote:
> Walt Blank came up with the name  Conclave back in 1975 from an old Boy Scout
> term
>
> jim
>
>
>> From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com
>> Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 22:32:18 -0400
>> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com; pyoas at yahoo.com; eyera3 at gmail.com
>> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter
>>
>> Another trivia question - How did the term Conclave become the name of our
>> National Meet
>>
>> Jim Werner
>> Louisville, Kentucky
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun May 29 11:22:42 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 19:22:42 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Loud Metallic Click
In-Reply-To: <047F30BB-AF07-4D49-9966-3300B255D93B@gmail.com>
References: <57A84B1C-F8A6-48AB-87E4-C1366B36D77A@gmail.com>
	<047F30BB-AF07-4D49-9966-3300B255D93B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimVO4Fc+gm8zMvDrkcTotQ1HPcVag@mail.gmail.com>

If the bore itself looks ok, than it may be a lucky accident.
Wish all the best!

Gergo

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun May 29 11:36:06 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 12:36:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Boise, Idaho Car Show !!
Message-ID: <4DE28406.9010408@justbrits.com>

WHOSE great looking Leaf Green Frogeye is at this show ?>

Seen on Dennis Gage's "My Classic Car" on currently !?!?

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
3]  Don't miss the big Midget 50th Birthday Party at:
     "Road America" in beautiful Elkhart, WI !!
     http://sprite-midgetclub.org/     

From bsdds at bellsouth.net  Sun May 29 12:22:43 2011
From: bsdds at bellsouth.net (Dr. Barry Simmons)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 14:22:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Black 100M
Message-ID: <114F2A9E-9065-48AC-AD65-63BF3AC15606@bellsouth.net>

>> I wish to purchase a BMIHT certificate-black or black w/red cove
>> factory 100M. If current color is different, that would be ok. I
>> would appreciate any help finding one, particularly one that is a
>> driver, and if restored, even better. Please, no previous  
>> collision/frame  damage
>> Barry Simmons  Athens, Ga. 30605
>> Tele: 706 546 1716       Email: bsdds at bellsouth.net

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sun May 29 12:43:22 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 14:43:22 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix
Message-ID: <1c1b.704bfe59.3b13edca@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/29/11 10:32:40 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> And since you are on these lists you are into cars so why
> not come out to either the PVGP/VRG Historic races at BeaveRun or the
> Vintage Grand Prix at Schenley Park or better yet both.
> 
If you live within driving distance of Pittsburgh, the Pittsburgh Vintage 
Grand Prix is an absolute Must! not only is it the last surviving true road 
race (i.e. in the center of a city, but run without armco dividing the cars 
from the spectators, and with real curbs, stone walls, trees, bridge 
abutments, and lamp posts well within the reach of the race cars on the course (ask 
me how I know)). Furthermore, it is FREE, and in the environs of beautiful 
Schenley Park, making it a perfect place to watch a real sport car race from 
a picnic blanket on a grassy slope within yards of the course. The races are 
on Sunday afternoon, with practice sessions on Saturday and Sunday morning 
(the organizers give the drivers three practice sessions to get used to the 
very complex and challenging course. If you watched Monaco today, you have 
an idea of what the circuit is like. The only differences are trees, grass, 
and Panther Hollow instead of hotels, concrete, and a harbor.

Cheers
Gary

From bighealey at astound.net  Sun May 29 14:27:13 2011
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 13:27:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
Message-ID: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>

Hi,

Two weeks ago I replaced the King-pin/trunnion oilite thrust washers with
Torrington needle-bearings on my BN4 and what a nice reduction in the steering
effort, especially below 40 MPH.  I also replaced the rubber top link bushes
connecting the trunnion with the shock arms with the hard polyurethane
bushings.

I've noticed that the front suspension feels a little harsher and I now have a
front end vibration causing scuttle-shake over 55/60 MPH on pavements that are
rough textured or wavy that was not there before the work.  I'm not talking
about really bad chuck-hole type pavement but pavements that are not nice and
smooth.  I had my wire wheel guy check the on-car-balancing of my front tires
and he said they are spot on good.  The king-pins are good and when installing
the needle-bearings the up-lift was set at less 0.002".  My first thought is
that this vibration is due to the very hard polyurethane bushings.

Has anyone who has switched to the hard top trunnion bushings had this
experience?  Thanks for any thoughts based on experience.

John Soderling & Erika the Red

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun May 29 14:58:34 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 22:58:34 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
In-Reply-To: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>
References: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>
Message-ID: <4DE2B37A.7030908@chello.nl>

A similar thing happens to old Landrovers when the Railco bushes are 
replaced by roller bearings. The bushes cause some friction and 
therefore damping in the steering system. The needle or roller bearings 
have little or no friction thus no damping.
In the Landrover this is solved by fitting a additional steering damper, 
effectively an oil shock absorber fitted between chassis and a steering 
link.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun May 29 15:39:12 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 14:39:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
In-Reply-To: <4DE2B37A.7030908@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <933930.94060.qm@web161220.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Why is it always two steps forward, one step back?

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 5/29/11, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
To: "John Soderling" <bighealey at astound.net>
Cc: "Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, May 29, 2011, 4:58 PM

A similar thing happens to old Landrovers when the Railco bushes are
replaced by roller bearings. The bushes cause some friction and
therefore damping in the steering system. The needle or roller bearings
have little or no friction thus no damping.
In the Landrover this is solved by fitting a additional steering damper,
effectively an oil shock absorber fitted between chassis and a steering
link.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
coudesluijs.vcf]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun May 29 16:45:03 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 06:45:03 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
In-Reply-To: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>
References: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi==-oLXf0LSH0CjY7N-ho9Bayr92w@mail.gmail.com>

When was the last time you rebuilt your shocks?

On 5/30/11, John Soderling <bighealey at astound.net> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Two weeks ago I replaced the King-pin/trunnion oilite thrust washers with
> Torrington needle-bearings on my BN4 and what a nice reduction in the
> steering
> effort, especially below 40 MPH.  I also replaced the rubber top link bushes
> connecting the trunnion with the shock arms with the hard polyurethane
> bushings.
>
> I've noticed that the front suspension feels a little harsher and I now have
> a
> front end vibration causing scuttle-shake over 55/60 MPH on pavements that
> are
> rough textured or wavy that was not there before the work.  I'm not talking
> about really bad chuck-hole type pavement but pavements that are not nice
> and
> smooth.  I had my wire wheel guy check the on-car-balancing of my front
> tires
> and he said they are spot on good.  The king-pins are good and when
> installing
> the needle-bearings the up-lift was set at less 0.002".  My first thought is
> that this vibration is due to the very hard polyurethane bushings.
>
> Has anyone who has switched to the hard top trunnion bushings had this
> experience?  Thanks for any thoughts based on experience.
>
> John Soderling & Erika the Red
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun May 29 16:56:53 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 06:56:53 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Black 100M
In-Reply-To: <114F2A9E-9065-48AC-AD65-63BF3AC15606@bellsouth.net>
References: <114F2A9E-9065-48AC-AD65-63BF3AC15606@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=SEVeE+Gv6ub9h5ibuW4g+ss2r6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Barry -

This was discussed heavily on the list a couple weeks ago.

Your chances of finding such a car is effectively nil, as likely only
6 or 7 known cars exist that meet this exact criteria.

If you really want one, use the method Jay Leno suggested -> you need
to start getting to know the wives of the owners of these cars so that
you'll be there to offer comfort to the wife and coincidentally buy
the car when her husband dies of old age.

Of course, that could take 20 years or so...

Good Luck!

Alan

On 5/30/11, Dr. Barry Simmons <bsdds at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>> I wish to purchase a BMIHT certificate-black or black w/red cove
>>> factory 100M. If current color is different, that would be ok. I
>>> would appreciate any help finding one, particularly one that is a
>>> driver, and if restored, even better. Please, no previous
>>> collision/frame  damage
>>> Barry Simmons  Athens, Ga. 30605
>>> Tele: 706 546 1716       Email: bsdds at bellsouth.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From pennell at cox.net  Sun May 29 17:31:59 2011
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 19:31:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights on
Message-ID: <20110529193159.40LGZ.654264.imail@eastrmwml40>

Listers,

Need some ideas on the solution to my problem.  Recently the brake lights on my BN7 will come on when the brake is applied and not go off.  If the ignition is turned off they will sometimes stay off and sometimes not.  The green-purple wire from the brake lights switch runs to terminal #5 on the relay.  With no brake lights I read no voltage there but once the pedal is applied there is voltage.  However, the voltage stays after the pedal is released as do the lights.  Are we looking at a faulty brake light switch here or what?

Any thoughts?
Keith

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun May 29 17:35:53 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 16:35:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights on
In-Reply-To: <20110529193159.40LGZ.654264.imail@eastrmwml40>
References: <20110529193159.40LGZ.654264.imail@eastrmwml40>
Message-ID: <BANLkTin=YWYsw-Xt-ZqEnsRPv=5d93RfsA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, most likly.  Imho

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 29, 2011 4:32 PM, <pennell at cox.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Need some ideas on the solution to my problem. Recently the brake lights
on my BN7 will come on when the brake is applied and not go off. If the
ignition is turned off they will sometimes stay off and sometimes not. The
green-purple wire from the brake lights switch runs to terminal #5 on the
relay. With no brake lights I read no voltage there but once the pedal is
applied there is voltage. However, the voltage stays after the pedal is
released as do the lights. Are we looking at a faulty brake light switch
here or what?
>
> Any thoughts?
> Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun May 29 17:40:21 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 16:40:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikweowjwmcGRbM9kG+8-e5EdR7UJg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA056E01.C8F7%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
	<BANLkTimDMm5YgG6DQDgt3pzLuhX7rbeuhg@mail.gmail.com>
	<BANLkTikweowjwmcGRbM9kG+8-e5EdR7UJg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=khzcGhzsPkLtjfS+Kun1RsvX_+w@mail.gmail.com>

Almost,
My engine has about 35k on it over the last 35 years. Waiting to restart
mine, with newly rebuilt HD8 Carbs.  Hopefully two weeks out to restart.good
luck with your initial startup.  The machine shop did a fast job.

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 28, 2011 11:33 PM, "Austin Healey" <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
> I am in about the same situation. Engine, transmission in, new loom
wiaiting
> to be installed.
>
> Gergo
>
> 2011/5/28 I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>
>> Would like to see some photos,
>> I still need to bolt down my tranny mounts and drive shaft. New wire
>> harness
>> this weekend, carbs back in two weeks, then hook up and restart car for
>> first time in 20 months, when we started this project. Still lots to do,
>> but a lot has been completed.
>> Good luck with recovery. Do your exercises
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> DIGS-4 Solutions
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections
because
>> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>>
>> On May 27, 2011 12:04 PM, "Thomas Morrione" <tjmorrio at colby.edu> wrote:
>> > Ira b9 fwiw b9 I put my grommets in after I put on durmat and the
>> tarpaper.
>> It
>> > worked ok in all but two of the cases where I didnB9t cut holes quite
>> large
>> > enough b9 suggest just eyeball it and see if thereB9s any likelihood
that
>> > youB9ll not be able to put the grommet in without more trimming. I did
>> put
>> > the couple of balk gromment/plugs in before I put on the duramat.
Forgot
>> > which those were though. Have just had knee replacement last week and
am
>> > laid up or would go look further.
>> >
>> > Have enjoyed your chronicle of rebuild b9 am about to put in redone
>> > engine/trans/od this summer and move my project along/
>> >
>> > Best,
>> > Tom
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun May 29 17:43:23 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 16:43:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update
Message-ID: <960537.64092.qm@web161206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Not a lot of headway on the Nasty Boy, but some progress on the
"personalization" (I think this is a Steve Thomton word) front.  I realize
this isn't everyone's cuppa Earl Grey, but there's a great feeling of fun and
freedom in making a Healey your own vision.  Check out the link below for the
latest:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From jtrifari at comcast.net  Sun May 29 17:57:03 2011
From: jtrifari at comcast.net (John Trifari)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 16:57:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights on
In-Reply-To: <20110529193159.40LGZ.654264.imail@eastrmwml40>
References: <20110529193159.40LGZ.654264.imail@eastrmwml40>
Message-ID: <004001cc1e5c$1c1cb650$545622f0$@net>

Keith--probably the brake switch is sticking shut.  To confirm, jump the two
switch terminals and turn on the ignition.  You should get your brake lights
without touching the brake pedal.  Disconnect the jumper.  Brake lights
should go out.  John Trifari   Golden Gate AHC.   

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of pennell at cox.net
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 4:32 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Brake lights on

Listers,

Need some ideas on the solution to my problem.  Recently the brake lights on
my BN7 will come on when the brake is applied and not go off.  If the
ignition is turned off they will sometimes stay off and sometimes not.  The
green-purple wire from the brake lights switch runs to terminal #5 on the
relay.  With no brake lights I read no voltage there but once the pedal is
applied there is voltage.  However, the voltage stays after the pedal is
released as do the lights.  Are we looking at a faulty brake light switch
here or what?

Any thoughts?
Keith
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtrifari at comcast.net

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Sun May 29 18:20:26 2011
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 17:20:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
In-Reply-To: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>
References: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>
Message-ID: <4DE2E2CA.7030409@pacbell.net>

John,

I have the needle bearings, neoprene bushings and run 205/65 Dunlop 
SP4000's on 6" SS 72's on my BN1. They are smooth as silk right past 100 
mph. (On a closed course, of course!) ;-) It is not the needles or 
bushings, by experience.

Bill
'53 BN1
'61 BT7
-- When I was younger, I could remember anything whether it had happened 
or not. But now my facilities are decaying and soon I shall be so I 
cannot remember anything but the things that never happened. - Mark Twain

On 5/29/2011 1:27 PM, John Soderling wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Two weeks ago I replaced the King-pin/trunnion oilite thrust washers with
> Torrington needle-bearings on my BN4 and what a nice reduction in the steering
> effort, especially below 40 MPH.  I also replaced the rubber top link bushes
> connecting the trunnion with the shock arms with the hard polyurethane
> bushings.
>
> I've noticed that the front suspension feels a little harsher and I now have a
> front end vibration causing scuttle-shake over 55/60 MPH on pavements that are
> rough textured or wavy that was not there before the work.  I'm not talking
> about really bad chuck-hole type pavement but pavements that are not nice and
> smooth.  I had my wire wheel guy check the on-car-balancing of my front tires
> and he said they are spot on good.  The king-pins are good and when installing
> the needle-bearings the up-lift was set at less 0.002".  My first thought is
> that this vibration is due to the very hard polyurethane bushings.
>
> Has anyone who has switched to the hard top trunnion bushings had this
> experience?  Thanks for any thoughts based on experience.
>
> John Soderling&  Erika the Red
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net

From jcapezzuti at aol.com  Sun May 29 20:19:32 2011
From: jcapezzuti at aol.com (Jeff Capezzuti)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 22:19:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????
In-Reply-To: <d9f2c.3b7f8b9c.3b13bc3b@aol.com>
References: <d9f2c.3b7f8b9c.3b13bc3b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <35EB5CF2-F828-491A-B423-3441A63DC7BF@aol.com>

I am in the beginning stages of planning to rebuild my original Gearbox.  The
synchros are wearing out, and have never been replaced.  Does anyone have any
advice they'd be willing to share?

I have a few questions:

1.) Do you have to pull the engine and box out in order to access the
Gearbox?

2.) what is the best source to acquire the new synchros from?

3.) Is there anything else I should do while I've got it out?

4.). IF, I don't do this myself, what should it cost, and any recommendations
in the central Florida area?

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions!!!!

Thank You all!!!!

Jeff Capezzuti
(770) 313-4320
Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2011, at 11:11 AM, MBran89793 at aol.com wrote:

> FWIW It certainly appears that some Listers have forgotten that when you
> change the Subject [Healeys] Chatter to a new subject  I.E. 'Spanner" that
> the subject should be changed also.
> Just my $.02 worth.
> Marion
>
>
> In a message dated 5/29/2011 10:44:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> dcongleton at embarqmail.com writes:
>
> ("Actually it is from the German word spannen to stretch, span   :^)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jcapezzuti at aol.com

From bighealey at astound.net  Sun May 29 20:32:33 2011
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 19:32:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi==-oLXf0LSH0CjY7N-ho9Bayr92w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>
	<BANLkTi==-oLXf0LSH0CjY7N-ho9Bayr92w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <372E34AF05034E01893677EA6B2CE6F0@JohnSoderling>

Alan,
One shock was rebuilt two years ago (5,000 miles) and the other 11 years ago 
(45,000 miles).  They were working fine two weeks ago.  When I installed the 
Torrington bearings and the Polyurethane bushes and had the car jacked up, I 
did a manual check of the shock's action, checked the fluid level (fine) and 
the mounting bolts (tighten one a little more).  So the shocks are good. 
I'm going to order the original rubber type trunnion bushes and install them 
and see if that solves the problem.  I'm also thinking that these hard 
plastic type bushes have got to transmit more "shock" to and be harder on 
the shock arm/housing connections and the mounting bolts.
Thanks.
Vrooom vrooom
John

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 3:45 PM
To: "John Soderling" <bighealey at astound.net>; "Healey list" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration

> When was the last time you rebuilt your shocks?
>
> On 5/30/11, John Soderling <bighealey at astound.net> wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> Two weeks ago I replaced the King-pin/trunnion oilite thrust washers with
>> Torrington needle-bearings on my BN4 and what a nice reduction in the
>> steering
>> effort, especially below 40 MPH.  I also replaced the rubber top link 
>> bushes
>> connecting the trunnion with the shock arms with the hard polyurethane
>> bushings.
>>
>> I've noticed that the front suspension feels a little harsher and I now 
>> have
>> a
>> front end vibration causing scuttle-shake over 55/60 MPH on pavements 
>> that
>> are
>> rough textured or wavy that was not there before the work.  I'm not 
>> talking
>> about really bad chuck-hole type pavement but pavements that are not nice
>> and
>> smooth.  I had my wire wheel guy check the on-car-balancing of my front
>> tires
>> and he said they are spot on good.  The king-pins are good and when
>> installing
>> the needle-bearings the up-lift was set at less 0.002".  My first thought 
>> is
>> that this vibration is due to the very hard polyurethane bushings.
>>
>> Has anyone who has switched to the hard top trunnion bushings had this
>> experience?  Thanks for any thoughts based on experience.
>>
>> John Soderling & Erika the Red
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>
> -- 
> Sent from my mobile device 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 29 20:32:28 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 19:32:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
Message-ID: <4DE301BC.3060807@comcast.net>

Sunday afternoon on Hwy. 2 in eastern Washington state.  Anyone on the List?

That was me in the red/black BJ8.


Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bighealey at astound.net  Sun May 29 20:34:01 2011
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 19:34:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
Message-ID: <1F84D1410D9E4582B3D5FAD7C9560619@JohnSoderling>

> Alan,
> One shock was rebuilt two years ago (5,000 miles) and the other 11 years 
> ago (45,000 miles).  They were working fine two weeks ago.  When I 
> installed the Torrington bearings and the Polyurethane bushes and had the 
> car jacked up, I did a manual check of the shock's action, checked the 
> fluid level (fine) and the mounting bolts (tighten one a little more).  So 
> the shocks are good. I'm going to order the original rubber type trunnion 
> bushes and install them and see if that solves the problem.  I'm also 
> thinking that these hard plastic type bushes have got to transmit more 
> "shock" to and be harder on the shock arm/housing connections and the 
> mounting bolts.
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom
> John
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 3:45 PM
> To: "John Soderling" <bighealey at astound.net>; "Healey list" 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
>
>> When was the last time you rebuilt your shocks?
>>
>> On 5/30/11, John Soderling <bighealey at astound.net> wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Two weeks ago I replaced the King-pin/trunnion oilite thrust washers 
>>> with
>>> Torrington needle-bearings on my BN4 and what a nice reduction in the
>>> steering
>>> effort, especially below 40 MPH.  I also replaced the rubber top link 
>>> bushes
>>> connecting the trunnion with the shock arms with the hard polyurethane
>>> bushings.
>>>
>>> I've noticed that the front suspension feels a little harsher and I now 
>>> have
>>> a
>>> front end vibration causing scuttle-shake over 55/60 MPH on pavements 
>>> that
>>> are
>>> rough textured or wavy that was not there before the work.  I'm not 
>>> talking
>>> about really bad chuck-hole type pavement but pavements that are not 
>>> nice
>>> and
>>> smooth.  I had my wire wheel guy check the on-car-balancing of my front
>>> tires
>>> and he said they are spot on good.  The king-pins are good and when
>>> installing
>>> the needle-bearings the up-lift was set at less 0.002".  My first 
>>> thought is
>>> that this vibration is due to the very hard polyurethane bushings.
>>>
>>> Has anyone who has switched to the hard top trunnion bushings had this
>>> experience?  Thanks for any thoughts based on experience.
>>>
>>> John Soderling & Erika the Red
>>> _______________________________________________

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun May 29 20:43:17 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 19:43:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????
In-Reply-To: <35EB5CF2-F828-491A-B423-3441A63DC7BF@aol.com>
References: <d9f2c.3b7f8b9c.3b13bc3b@aol.com>
	<35EB5CF2-F828-491A-B423-3441A63DC7BF@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=uB8JA3TQjm=6EuGPtCWQsSmOkeg@mail.gmail.com>

Tranny comes out by itself. Up and out of the passenger compartment
take too many photos
Replace clutch assembly.
Add rear main seal kit
Resurface and or lighten your flywheel.
check ring gear for chips
synchros and parts from usual suppliers, Moss, BCS, Dennis Welch, cape
international, Ed may have some,
Oh yes, take plenty of photos.
Take it apart in a place where you can locate springs that zing off into the
distance, and bearings that fall out from an unexpected place.
good luck, it can be done, take your time and take plenty of photos.


On Sun, May 29, 2011 at 7:19 PM, Jeff Capezzuti <jcapezzuti at aol.com> wrote:

> I am in the beginning stages of planning to rebuild my original Gearbox.
>  The
> synchros are wearing out, and have never been replaced.  Does anyone have
> any
> advice they'd be willing to share?
>
> I have a few questions:
>
> 1.) Do you have to pull the engine and box out in order to access the
> Gearbox?
>
> 2.) what is the best source to acquire the new synchros from?
>
> 3.) Is there anything else I should do while I've got it out?
>
> 4.). IF, I don't do this myself, what should it cost, and any
> recommendations
> in the central Florida area?
>
> I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions!!!!
>
> Thank You all!!!!
>
> Jeff Capezzuti
> (770) 313-4320
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 29, 2011, at 11:11 AM, MBran89793 at aol.com wrote:
>
> > FWIW It certainly appears that some Listers have forgotten that when you
> > change the Subject [Healeys] Chatter to a new subject  I.E. 'Spanner"
> that
> > the subject should be changed also.
> > Just my $.02 worth.
> > Marion
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 5/29/2011 10:44:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > dcongleton at embarqmail.com writes:
> >
> > ("Actually it is from the German word spannen to stretch, span   :^)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jcapezzuti at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
IT CONSULTANT
Portland, OR

 We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun May 29 21:07:34 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 11:07:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension Changes & Now Front End Vibration
In-Reply-To: <372E34AF05034E01893677EA6B2CE6F0@JohnSoderling>
References: <89A34EE294C543068355426E38014D6D@JohnSoderling>
	<BANLkTi==-oLXf0LSH0CjY7N-ho9Bayr92w@mail.gmail.com>
	<372E34AF05034E01893677EA6B2CE6F0@JohnSoderling>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=LQFyYvwpJPgZfdUZ8H4vAZH=CaA@mail.gmail.com>

If the shock has a bit of slack between up and down motion, then you can get
vibration.  It's not enough that the shock can still dampen movement, what
you don't want is something like a 1/8" or 1/4" of free play up or down
before the dampening kicks in.  If that happens you can get a little bit of
the harmonic vibration...

On Mon, May 30, 2011 at 10:32 AM, John Soderling <bighealey at astound.net>wrote:

> Alan,
> One shock was rebuilt two years ago (5,000 miles) and the other 11 years
> ago (45,000 miles).  They were working fine two weeks ago.  When I installed
> the Torrington bearings and the Polyurethane bushes and had the car jacked
> up, I did a manual check of the shock's action, checked the fluid level
> (fine) and the mounting bolts (tighten one a little more).  So the shocks
> are good. I'm going to order the original rubber type trunnion bushes and
> install them and see if that solves the problem.  I'm also thinking that
> these hard plastic type bushes have got to transmit more "shock" to and be
> harder on the shock arm/housing connections and the mounting bolts.
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom
> John

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Sun May 29 22:10:42 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 23:10:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Black 100M
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=SEVeE+Gv6ub9h5ibuW4g+ss2r6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <114F2A9E-9065-48AC-AD65-63BF3AC15606@bellsouth.net>
	<BANLkTi=SEVeE+Gv6ub9h5ibuW4g+ss2r6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3AC24659-6838-47D8-B647-1D40FE1E7A08@yahoo.com>

I like the jay leno aproach....



Sent from my iPad


On May 29, 2011, at 5:56 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Barry -
>
> This was discussed heavily on the list a couple weeks ago.
>
> Your chances of finding such a car is effectively nil, as likely only
> 6 or 7 known cars exist that meet this exact criteria.
>
> If you really want one, use the method Jay Leno suggested -> you need
> to start getting to know the wives of the owners of these cars so that
> you'll be there to offer comfort to the wife and coincidentally buy
> the car when her husband dies of old age.
>
> Of course, that could take 20 years or so...
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Alan
>
> On 5/30/11, Dr. Barry Simmons <bsdds at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>>> I wish to purchase a BMIHT certificate-black or black w/red cove
>>>> factory 100M. If current color is different, that would be ok. I
>>>> would appreciate any help finding one, particularly one that is a
>>>> driver, and if restored, even better. Please, no previous
>>>> collision/frame  damage
>>>> Barry Simmons  Athens, Ga. 30605
>>>> Tele: 706 546 1716       Email: bsdds at bellsouth.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From pajtamuvek at gmail.com  Sun May 29 23:23:21 2011
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 07:23:21 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=khzcGhzsPkLtjfS+Kun1RsvX_+w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA056E01.C8F7%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
	<BANLkTimDMm5YgG6DQDgt3pzLuhX7rbeuhg@mail.gmail.com>
	<BANLkTikweowjwmcGRbM9kG+8-e5EdR7UJg@mail.gmail.com>
	<BANLkTi=khzcGhzsPkLtjfS+Kun1RsvX_+w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikwPND6=WSRmqL01owKaTF-GvBu8g@mail.gmail.com>

Good uck Ira!

Gergo

2011/5/30 I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>

> Almost,
> My engine has about 35k on it over the last 35 years. Waiting to restart
> mine, with newly rebuilt HD8 Carbs.  Hopefully two weeks out to restart.good
> luck with your initial startup.  The machine shop did a fast job.
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>
> On May 28, 2011 11:33 PM, "Austin Healey" <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
> > I am in about the same situation. Engine, transmission in, new loom
> wiaiting
> > to be installed.
> >
> > Gergo
> >
> > 2011/5/28 I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
> >
> >> Would like to see some photos,
> >> I still need to bolt down my tranny mounts and drive shaft. New wire
> >> harness
> >> this weekend, carbs back in two weeks, then hook up and restart car for
> >> first time in 20 months, when we started this project. Still lots to do,
> >> but a lot has been completed.
> >> Good luck with recovery. Do your exercises
> >>
> >> Ira Erbs
> >> DIGS-4 Solutions
> >> Portland, OR
> >>
> >> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections
> because
> >> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
> >>
> >> On May 27, 2011 12:04 PM, "Thomas Morrione" <tjmorrio at colby.edu> wrote:
> >> > Ira b9 fwiw b9 I put my grommets in after I put on durmat and the
> >> tarpaper.
> >> It
> >> > worked ok in all but two of the cases where I didnB9t cut holes quite
> >> large
> >> > enough b9 suggest just eyeball it and see if thereB9s any likelihood
> that
> >> > youB9ll not be able to put the grommet in without more trimming. I did
> >> put
> >> > the couple of balk gromment/plugs in before I put on the duramat.
> Forgot
> >> > which those were though. Have just had knee replacement last week and
> am
> >> > laid up or would go look further.
> >> >
> >> > Have enjoyed your chronicle of rebuild b9 am about to put in redone
> >> > engine/trans/od this summer and move my project along/
> >> >
> >> > Best,
> >> > Tom
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Mon May 30 05:15:05 2011
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 07:15:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikwPND6=WSRmqL01owKaTF-GvBu8g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA08F479.CA3C%tjmorrio@colby.edu>

Gergo and Ira - let me add my 3good luck2message to you both. I9m aiming for
a Sept. 1st first time start up date. Then I can finally get to putting the
re-done body panels back on for the last time. Still have some chrome to get
done as well.
Tom


On 5/30/11 1:23 AM, "Austin Healey" <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> Good uck Ira!
>
> Gergo
>
> 2011/5/30 I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>>
>> Almost,
>> My engine has about 35k on it over the last 35 years. Waiting to restart
>> mine, with newly rebuilt HD8 Carbs.  Hopefully two weeks out to
restart.good
>> luck with your initial startup.  The machine shop did a fast job.
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> IT Consultant
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections
because
>> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>>
>> On May 28, 2011 11:33 PM, "Austin Healey" <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> > I am in about the same situation. Engine, transmission in, new loom
>>> wiaiting
>>> > to be installed.
>>> >
>>> > Gergo
>>> >
>>> > 2011/5/28 I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>>> >
>>>> >> Would like to see some photos,
>>>> >> I still need to bolt down my tranny mounts and drive shaft. New wire
>>>> >> harness
>>>> >> this weekend, carbs back in two weeks, then hook up and restart car
for
>>>> >> first time in 20 months, when we started this project.  Still lots to
>>>> do,
>>>> >> but a lot has been completed.
>>>> >> Good luck with recovery. Do your exercises
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Ira Erbs
>>>> >> DIGS-4 Solutions
>>>> >> Portland, OR
>>>> >>
>>>> >> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections
>>>> because
>>>> >> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>>>> >>
>>>> >> On May 27, 2011 12:04 PM, "Thomas Morrione" <tjmorrio at colby.edu>
wrote:
>>>>> >> > Ira b9 fwiw b9 I put my grommets in after I put on durmat and the
>>>> >> tarpaper.
>>>> >> It
>>>>> >> > worked ok in all but two of the cases where I didnB9t cut holes
quite
>>>> >> large
>>>>> >> > enough b9 suggest just eyeball it and see if thereB9s any
likelihood
that
>>>>> >> > youB9ll not be able to put the grommet in without more trimming. I
did
>>>> >> put
>>>>> >> > the couple of balk gromment/plugs in before I put on the duramat.
>>>>> Forgot
>>>>> >> > which those were though. Have just had knee replacement last week
and
am
>>>>> >> > laid up or would go look further.
>>>>> >> >
>>>>> >> > Have enjoyed your chronicle of rebuild b9 am about to put in
redone
>>>>> >> > engine/trans/od this summer and move my project along/
>>>>> >> >
>>>>> >> > Best,
>>>>> >> > Tom
>>>> >> _______________________________________________
>>>> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Mon May 30 05:30:26 2011
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 13:30:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Made it to Brussels!!
Message-ID: <BANLkTin=BMZvkJGcatcaj0eJyEJQgrPU0g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,

Just arrived in Brussels at around midday today after a very enjoyable trip.
I decided to break the journey across England into two as a I could only
leave Cumbria around midday. Stopped near Harrogate, Yorhshire after a great
drive on A and B roads, avoiding the motorway, which would in any case have
been less direct. Yesterday I completed the journey to the ferry port in
Hull. Again on very nice roads and no motorways.  The car performed
brilliantly and never missed a beat.

The ferry arrived at Zeebrugge this morning and I had a drive of about 120k
all on the highway. This was the most eventful part of the trip. First the
passenger door sprung open after hitting a pothole and then the bonnet
popped after hitting another. After pulling onto the hard shoulder and
closing the bonnet I accelereated up to speed and the car was hesitating in
second gear on acceleration. I wouldn't call it spitting, more just like a
loss of power before eventually picking up. Slightly unsettling as I still
had to negotiate the tunnels and traffic in the centre of Brussels. It did
it again in the city, but as long as I moved up through the gears without
accelerating too hard in second, it was ok.

I'll try to look at it tomorrow. Whats the likely source, maybe just
regapping/replacing the points. Is it more likely to be that than a
carburation issue?

Anyway, after very little use for nearly a year  I'm very pleased with how
'Annie' performed. Tomorrow I'm taking her to a friend's who has a farm just
outside Brussels. That will be her home for the next few months. He has
about 10 other classics stored there including several Healeys, one in full
race prep which Im hoping to drive!!!.. He has loads of tools and a lift so
it will be a great place to work on the car.

It's great to be Healeying again!

cheers

Derek

From healeyguy at bredband.net  Mon May 30 05:57:53 2011
From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 13:57:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Made it to Brussels!!
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTin=BMZvkJGcatcaj0eJyEJQgrPU0g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTin=BMZvkJGcatcaj0eJyEJQgrPU0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DE38641.4010104@bredband.net>

Derek
Good job. Mine hesitate all the time after a short stop. After a short 
while it's OK again. I'm certain it is the fuel that is overheating in 
the fuel lines near the cylinder head. Sometimes starting the engine is 
a little difficult too. After a little while colder fuel is coming along 
into the carbs and all is well again.

Per in Sweden

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon May 30 06:19:20 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 08:19:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve
Message-ID: <4de38b4a.85c0e60a.0f30.566b@mx.google.com>

I am thinking about adding a PCV valve to my BJ7 to replace the current hose
which goes into the rear air filter.  When I go to the local parts store,
what should I ask for? (i.e. part number ...., or "A PCV valve for a xxxx
(year make and model).

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon May 30 06:36:11 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 06:36:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????
In-Reply-To: <35EB5CF2-F828-491A-B423-3441A63DC7BF@aol.com>
References: <d9f2c.3b7f8b9c.3b13bc3b@aol.com>
	<35EB5CF2-F828-491A-B423-3441A63DC7BF@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CC99634F7F7241A7B5C79A3901A1ED3D@oscar>

Inspect dog cogs adjacent to the synchros for abnormal shapes and wearing,
inspect lay gear shaft for bearing erosion. Large chips on the straight cut
1st gear should probably be replaced. Most other stuff is fairly evident.
Remember that the main shaft and 1st motion shaft must be fully inserted in
the case before the lay gear will center up.
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff Capezzuti
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 8:20 PM
To: zzuti1 at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????

I am in the beginning stages of planning to rebuild my original Gearbox.
The
synchros are wearing out, and have never been replaced.  Does anyone have
any
advice they'd be willing to share?

I have a few questions:

1.) Do you have to pull the engine and box out in order to access the
Gearbox?

2.) what is the best source to acquire the new synchros from?

3.) Is there anything else I should do while I've got it out?

4.). IF, I don't do this myself, what should it cost, and any
recommendations
in the central Florida area?

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions!!!!

Thank You all!!!!

Jeff Capezzuti
(770) 313-4320
Sent from my iPhone

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Mon May 30 09:02:44 2011
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 07:02:44 -0800
Subject: [Healeys]
	=?iso-8859-1?q?Suspension_Changes_=26_Now_Front_End_Vib?=
	=?iso-8859-1?q?ration?=
Message-ID: <20110530150244.7773.qmail@hoster902.com>

John,
Your experience is the reverse of mine. I had the scuttle shake - felt like an out of balance wheel at 55-60 mph.

On examination, my upper trunnion bushes were completely gone - my upper trunnions consisted of a 1/2 inch bolt in a 3/4 inch hole. I drove the car for years like this!

I rebuilt my front suspension, replacing the lower A-arm bushings with the purple poly bushings Cape sells, along with the needle thrust bearings and also Cape's adjustable upper bronze bushing. My kingpins and lower trunnions were perfect so didn't need disassembly.

On installing the upper trunnion bushings the scuttle shake disappeared. My car's a rust-free California car. 

I wonder if Erica had the problem all along and replacing the upper trunnions somehow accentuated it. Will be curious if replacing them with the stock rubber parts removes the shake.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

From ahpowered at hotmail.com  Mon May 30 09:46:10 2011
From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 10:46:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent Brake Lights?
Message-ID: <BLU164-w60C9F0827C6EEDA7BAB0B4B87B0@phx.gbl>

Hi all,
I want to take the BN7 to the Louisville British Bash this weekend. Lately,
every once and awhile my gas gauge goes dead when I hit my brake pedal. After
I drive it and hold the pedal down or pump the pedal the gas gauge eventually
starts working again. It cannot get it to happen at home to see if the brake
lights are working. I assume the lights are not coming on and it is shorting
the circuit.

Do you think I just need a new brake light switch? Is there something I should
clean? Not sure where to start...

Much thanks,

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon May 30 09:58:41 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 08:58:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <CA08F479.CA3C%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
References: <CA08F479.CA3C%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
Message-ID: <29FD4E56-B9BA-4722-9AED-AC29EE25252E@gmail.com>

Thanks
Right back at you

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On May 30, 2011, at 4:15 AM, Thomas Morrione <tjmorrio at colby.edu> wrote:

> Gergo and Ira - let me add my bgood luckbmessage to you both. Ibm
aiming for a Sept. 1st first time start up date. Then I can finally get to
putting the re-done body panels back on for the last time. Still have some
chrome to get done as well.
> Tom
>
>
> On 5/30/11 1:23 AM, "Austin Healey" <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Good uck Ira!
>
> Gergo
>
> 2011/5/30 I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>
> Almost,
> My engine has about 35k on it over the last 35 years. Waiting to restart
mine, with newly rebuilt HD8 Carbs.  Hopefully two weeks out to restart.good
luck with your initial startup.  The machine shop did a fast job.
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
>
> On May 28, 2011 11:33 PM, "Austin Healey" <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:
> > I am in about the same situation. Engine, transmission in, new loom
wiaiting
> > to be installed.
> >
> > Gergo
> >
> > 2011/5/28 I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
> >
> >> Would like to see some photos,
> >> I still need to bolt down my tranny mounts and drive shaft. New wire
> >> harness
> >> this weekend, carbs back in two weeks, then hook up and restart car for
> >> first time in 20 months, when we started this project.  Still lots to
do,
> >> but a lot has been completed.
> >> Good luck with recovery. Do your exercises
> >>
> >> Ira Erbs
> >> DIGS-4 Solutions
> >> Portland, OR
> >>
> >> sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections
because
> >> my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write
> >>
> >> On May 27, 2011 12:04 PM, "Thomas Morrione" <tjmorrio at colby.edu> wrote:
> >> > Ira b9 fwiw b9 I put my grommets in after I put on durmat and the
> >> tarpaper.
> >> It
> >> > worked ok in all but two of the cases where I didnB9t cut holes quite
> >> large
> >> > enough b9 suggest just eyeball it and see if thereB9s any likelihood
that
> >> > youB9ll not be able to put the grommet in without more trimming. I did
> >> put
> >> > the couple of balk gromment/plugs in before I put on the duramat.
Forgot
> >> > which those were though. Have just had knee replacement last week and
am
> >> > laid up or would go look further.
> >> >
> >> > Have enjoyed your chronicle of rebuild b9 am about to put in redone
> >> > engine/trans/od this summer and move my project along/
> >> >
> >> > Best,
> >> > Tom
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon May 30 10:13:22 2011
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 18:13:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent Brake Lights?
In-Reply-To: <BLU164-w60C9F0827C6EEDA7BAB0B4B87B0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU164-w60C9F0827C6EEDA7BAB0B4B87B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4DE3C222.9090802@chello.nl>

Sounds like an earthing problem somewhere.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf]

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon May 30 10:26:32 2011
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 09:26:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent Brake Lights?
In-Reply-To: <BLU164-w60C9F0827C6EEDA7BAB0B4B87B0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU164-w60C9F0827C6EEDA7BAB0B4B87B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000401cc1ee6$56bf49f0$043dddd0$@charter.net>

Scott,

Go to Napa.  Ask for an old 60s-70s VW brake pressure switch.  It is almost
a direct replacement.  The only difference is a to crimp on a terminal
connector.

If you do the switch (er swap) fast you will not need to re-bleed.  Don't
mash the brake pedal during the quick swap.  I do assume you mash the breaks
in this particular Healey as I recall ........grin.

I did this in a Napa parking lot once in 15 min during the California Alpine
500 Rally.   

Epilogue..................I am bracing for the correctness police to pounce
but narrowly get away with Smitty next to me and peel out shifting through
all five fully synchronized gears.  I cling to the non-original Lempert
wheel listening to the police scanner complements of the Lenschow current
boosting alternator.   The non-original offset bushings and bigger sway bar
help to lessen the push as I downshift smoothly for the first corner as we
disappear up a little known canyon two lane road.


Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of scott willis
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 8:46 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent Brake Lights?

Hi all,
I want to take the BN7 to the Louisville British Bash this weekend. Lately,
every once and awhile my gas gauge goes dead when I hit my brake pedal.
After I drive it and hold the pedal down or pump the pedal the gas gauge
eventually starts working again. It cannot get it to happen at home to see
if the brake lights are working. I assume the lights are not coming on and
it is shorting the circuit.

Do you think I just need a new brake light switch? Is there something I
should clean? Not sure where to start...

Much thanks,

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon May 30 10:52:35 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 09:52:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent Brake Lights?
In-Reply-To: <000401cc1ee6$56bf49f0$043dddd0$@charter.net>
References: <BLU164-w60C9F0827C6EEDA7BAB0B4B87B0@phx.gbl>
	<000401cc1ee6$56bf49f0$043dddd0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikEoO0wiQwOZOgo22jCkEa8M63FEQ@mail.gmail.com>

Lol,

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 30, 2011 9:47 AM, "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net> wrote:
> Scott,
>
> Go to Napa. Ask for an old 60s-70s VW brake pressure switch. It is almost
> a direct replacement. The only difference is a to crimp on a terminal
> connector.
>
> If you do the switch (er swap) fast you will not need to re-bleed. Don't
> mash the brake pedal during the quick swap. I do assume you mash the
breaks
> in this particular Healey as I recall ........grin.
>
> I did this in a Napa parking lot once in 15 min during the California
Alpine
> 500 Rally.
>
> Epilogue..................I am bracing for the correctness police to
pounce
> but narrowly get away with Smitty next to me and peel out shifting through
> all five fully synchronized gears. I cling to the non-original Lempert
> wheel listening to the police scanner complements of the Lenschow current
> boosting alternator. The non-original offset bushings and bigger sway bar
> help to lessen the push as I downshift smoothly for the first corner as we
> disappear up a little known canyon two lane road.
>
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> Tracy Drummond
>
> PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
> cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of scott willis
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 8:46 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent Brake Lights?
>
> Hi all,
> I want to take the BN7 to the Louisville British Bash this weekend.
Lately,
> every once and awhile my gas gauge goes dead when I hit my brake pedal.
> After I drive it and hold the pedal down or pump the pedal the gas gauge
> eventually starts working again. It cannot get it to happen at home to see
> if the brake lights are working. I assume the lights are not coming on and
> it is shorting the circuit.
>
> Do you think I just need a new brake light switch? Is there something I
> should clean? Not sure where to start...
>
> Much thanks,
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
>
> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From bluehealey at gmail.com  Mon May 30 11:22:37 2011
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 18:22:37 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Thread size on 29D Engine.
Message-ID: <BANLkTikmC4dp8vzfKL8ckG73c2sfevQOvA@mail.gmail.com>

Team.
I have fitted my BN4 project with a 29D engine that has been subtly upgraded
to a spec that is similar to the BJ8.  The engine was fired up for the first
time last weekend and all initial checks seem ok.  Unfortunately I have this
afternoon traced what appeared to be an oil leak to a couple of tapped holes
on the generator side of the engine that are open to the crankcase.  I don't
know if this is common to all 29D engines but there is a flat mounting face
that would accomodate a mechanical fuel pump in other roles.  The two
mounting bolt holes (for a pump) are drilled and tapped but strangely the
square window for the actuating arm doesn't exist - solid casting.  Why the
holes were drilled and tapped beats me.

My question is, what thread form would these tapped holes be?  It is tricky
to get to see down there and I can't get a 5/16-24 UNF bolt started into the
tapped holes.  A 1/4 bolt drops in and hardly touches the sides.  It may
just be paint in the threaded holes that is preventing the bolt starting.
My worry is, If I chase this through with a UNF tap only to discover
I should be using 5/16-18 UNC I could wreck the threads.

Paint peelings and perhaps cast iron swarf into the crankcase is a secondary
worry.  I wish I'd noticed this while the engine was out of the car.

Thanks.............
-- 
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
                (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Mon May 30 11:24:32 2011
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 13:24:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Original cigarette lighter & Early BN 6
Message-ID: <D6438FB0194445CDAD4D70DB67FBE8C5@9535DEE118EC44B>

Derek,

Really enjoyed your trip description.

For the lighter, best I can do is a drawing from a 1959 BMC accessory
brochure.

It is well documented that early BN 6's carried on with aspects of the
"Longbridge look" such as 100-style seats with the wooden tacking strips,  and
the single dome-type windscreen washer nozzle with glass bottle and aluminum
push-knob.  The flimsy all-vinyl tire bag pattern evolved with additional
reinforcement panels stitched in until they went to the more durable carpet
construction.

Always interested in photos.

Peter

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon May 30 12:04:52 2011
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 14:04:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thread size on 29D Engine.
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikmC4dp8vzfKL8ckG73c2sfevQOvA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikmC4dp8vzfKL8ckG73c2sfevQOvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4DE3DC44.70508@earthlink.net>

Alan,

5/16-18, 5/8" long with a copper sealing washer.  If you need to chase 
the threads with a tap, fill the flutes of the tap with grease to catch 
the swarf.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 05/30/2011 01:22 PM, Alan Bromfield wrote:
> Team.
> I have fitted my BN4 project with a 29D engine that has been subtly upgraded
> to a spec that is similar to the BJ8.  The engine was fired up for the first
> time last weekend and all initial checks seem ok.  Unfortunately I have this
> afternoon traced what appeared to be an oil leak to a couple of tapped holes
> on the generator side of the engine that are open to the crankcase.  I don't
> know if this is common to all 29D engines but there is a flat mounting face
> that would accomodate a mechanical fuel pump in other roles.  The two
> mounting bolt holes (for a pump) are drilled and tapped but strangely the
> square window for the actuating arm doesn't exist - solid casting.  Why the
> holes were drilled and tapped beats me.
>
> My question is, what thread form would these tapped holes be?  It is tricky
> to get to see down there and I can't get a 5/16-24 UNF bolt started into the
> tapped holes.  A 1/4 bolt drops in and hardly touches the sides.  It may
> just be paint in the threaded holes that is preventing the bolt starting.
> My worry is, If I chase this through with a UNF tap only to discover
> I should be using 5/16-18 UNC I could wreck the threads.
>
> Paint peelings and perhaps cast iron swarf into the crankcase is a secondary
> worry.  I wish I'd noticed this while the engine was out of the car.
>
> Thanks.............

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Mon May 30 12:10:21 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 20:10:21 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension settings for BN2
Message-ID: <6E1C5FF52E2B4C07949F85E68A67436C@TM1>

Hello,

 

I need to set-up my suspension (camber, toe-in/out) on my BN2. I am
wondering if anyone knowledgeable could recommend any settings. I have
standard setup except for:

- slightly larger (7/8") anti roll bar kit,

- 180R15 Michelin XAS tyres

- Kilmartin adjustable front shock mounts

 

 

Many thanks, Tadek

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 30 10:12:38 2011
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 09:12:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] suggestions - Fuel Tank?
In-Reply-To: <001c01cc1ca9$f1f640c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <BANLkTiniHBh66J6-r2fUSUNT=Na93gb3Gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<805566414.3325371306374634036.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
	<E1QPhDe-0005Er-PU@iota.look.ca>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110526135241.0209dcd8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<9D820272-F641-4F82-A3CA-D7FC151E065A@sbcglobal.net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20110526192240.02081460@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<001c01cc1ca9$f1f640c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110530091124.020f03a8@pop.att.yahoo.com>

It appears that the list server deleted the text from my message.

Sent May 26, 2011 to the list:

I have opened up two tanks from a 1962 BT7 and they both had a screen 
filter in a plastic housing and neither one bent at 90 degrees to go 
under the plate. Perhaps it depends on the year of manufacture.

At 03:44 PM 5/26/2011 -0700, David Nock wrote:
>We have cut open several original tanks and have not found one with 
>a screen on the pick up. The pick up tube comes straight down and 
>make a 90 degree bend and then goes under a plate attached to the 
>bottom of the tank.
>David Nock
>British Car Specialists

At 04:09 PM 5/27/2011 -0400, Mark LaPierre wrote:
>I'm not sure how to answer this question.
>
>
>Where is the question by the way.
>
>John we have told you that you have to include the question before 
>you hit the send
>button.   ))))
>
>Mark

From bluehealey at gmail.com  Mon May 30 13:03:42 2011
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Blue Healey)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 20:03:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Thread size on 29D Engine.
In-Reply-To: <4DE3DC44.70508@earthlink.net>
References: <BANLkTikmC4dp8vzfKL8ckG73c2sfevQOvA@mail.gmail.com>
	<4DE3DC44.70508@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <F3F451E854324DA4A3BE1CCAC9F7195F@homea4680ad9cc>

Many thanks for the prompt response Bob.
I had a suspicion it might be a coarse thread. So glad I asked.
This list is just the best............
 _____________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield _______________)
      (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______)
          (_________________________)
         http://tinyurl.com/healeyforum



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net] 
Sent: 30 May 2011 19:05
To: Alan Bromfield; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread size on 29D Engine.

Alan,

5/16-18, 5/8" long with a copper sealing washer.  If you need to chase the
threads with a tap, fill the flutes of the tap with grease to catch the
swarf.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 05/30/2011 01:22 PM, Alan Bromfield wrote:
> Team.
> I have fitted my BN4 project with a 29D engine that has been subtly 
> upgraded to a spec that is similar to the BJ8.  The engine was fired 
> up for the first time last weekend and all initial checks seem ok.  
> Unfortunately I have this afternoon traced what appeared to be an oil 
> leak to a couple of tapped holes on the generator side of the engine 
> that are open to the crankcase.  I don't know if this is common to all 
> 29D engines but there is a flat mounting face that would accomodate a 
> mechanical fuel pump in other roles.  The two mounting bolt holes (for 
> a pump) are drilled and tapped but strangely the square window for the 
> actuating arm doesn't exist - solid casting.  Why the holes were drilled
and tapped beats me.
>
> My question is, what thread form would these tapped holes be?  It is 
> tricky to get to see down there and I can't get a 5/16-24 UNF bolt 
> started into the tapped holes.  A 1/4 bolt drops in and hardly touches 
> the sides.  It may just be paint in the threaded holes that is preventing
the bolt starting.
> My worry is, If I chase this through with a UNF tap only to discover I 
> should be using 5/16-18 UNC I could wreck the threads.
>
> Paint peelings and perhaps cast iron swarf into the crankcase is a 
> secondary worry.  I wish I'd noticed this while the engine was out of the
car.
>
> Thanks.............

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon May 30 13:24:02 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 12:24:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension settings for BN2
In-Reply-To: <6E1C5FF52E2B4C07949F85E68A67436C@TM1>
References: <6E1C5FF52E2B4C07949F85E68A67436C@TM1>
Message-ID: <826224.82401.qm@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have 185/70 Verdestein tyres
Adjustable bushings for camber caster
-
slightly larger (7/8") anti roll bar kit,
 I set the busshings with the hole
looking completely towards the engine, as 
specified in the Moss Motors
instructions and at the tyre shop after riding the 
car for about 50 miles I
got a reading of 0 degrees. 
The toe in/out  I adjusted as indicated in the
manual.
The handling in the car is superb. I have already rode the car 1000
Kms in the 
last 3 weeks in multiple testins and the handling is fantastic. 
O
Jose
 Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota, Colombia
________________________________
From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz
<tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, May 30,
2011 1:10:21 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension settings for BN2

Hello,



I
need to set-up my suspension (camber, toe-in/out) on my BN2. I am
wondering if
anyone knowledgeable could recommend any settings. I have
standard setup
except for:

- slightly larger (7/8") anti roll bar kit,

- 180R15 Michelin
XAS tyres

- Kilmartin adjustable front shock mounts





Many thanks, Tadek
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com

From stevenergy at optonline.net  Mon May 30 14:26:25 2011
From: stevenergy at optonline.net (Steve Feld)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 16:26:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve
Message-ID: <000001cc1f07$d934a580$8b9df080$@optonline.net>

Go to healey6.com, then the "Technical" tab, and then, "My Modifications"
for instructions and part numbers to install a PCV valve on a big Healey.
The parts worked for my installation on my 1961 BT7 with a BJ7 engine and
carbs.  I had replaced the standard air filters with Stelling and Hellings
chrome units from Moss which do not have an inlet for the breather hose.

 

Good Luck,

Steve Feld

1961 BT7

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sun May 29 06:40:09 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 22:40:09 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Loud Metallic Click
In-Reply-To: <3168DE4E0E6048DEAB131E809D8FBF22@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <993B37B9DA34477FB5CB8C58340B3BAA@PatrickQuinnPC><BANLkTikM1C5=-rPt7qdCEoEvVnruDFE5hQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<433E3C71026A4CDC97F7153AEF2AD284@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<3168DE4E0E6048DEAB131E809D8FBF22@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <57A84B1C-F8A6-48AB-87E4-C1366B36D77A@gmail.com>

Ha.
And that's the difference Patrick!
It was a tinkeling sound rather than a clicking sound!
If you'd kept driving, like Wally gates did, or like Steve Byers did,  
or i did with a Sprite (many years ago), you would have just had a  
shrapnel dented cylinder head roof and piston!!
Here is the problem......
The top ring wears through the alloy piston, and the ring gap is worn  
and increased. The ring "flutters" in the worn ring groove. The ring  
breaks, and starts to erode the ring lands above and below, due to  
increased tolerances.  The ring land above and below it is then eroded  
to the point of failure. The alloy ring land is no match for the  
fluttering steel ring.
Then a chunk of the top (crown) alloy ring land parts company from the  
piston crown.
Followed by the broken piece of steel ring.
Then the clinking starts. The piece of steel ring bouncing around in  
the combustion chamber.
Until it exits via the exhaust valve with an obvious clinking. And you  
hear it all the way down the exhaust system!.
You just didn't drive it long enough for the clinking!!!!
What does the top of your combustion chamber/ piston look like???
Like its been Shot blasted with a square section piston ring??
At least you know what the noise was Patrick. I still think the other  
issues will be cam followers/ cam and little ends.
This issue seems to occur only on cars fitted with new rings fitted to  
old pistons, when the pistons probably should have been replaced,  
rather than re ringing.
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone

On 29/05/2011, at 9:12 PM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au 
 > wrote:

> G'day
>
> Listers would recall the loud and expensive noises coming from the  
> engine of
> the BN3/1.
>
> The engine is still in the car, but everything hanging off it has  
> now been
> removed. Yesterday my eldest son and I removed the cylinder head. It  
> was a
> struggle, but once the overdrive throttle switch was removed it was  
> possible
> to lift the head, move it sideways and then away from the engine.
>
> At first glance everything appeared as it should be, but looking more
> closely today, a 12mm by 5mm piece from the edge of the crown of the  
> No 2
> piston was missing. Small bits of aluminium were embedded in the top  
> of the
> piston and minor damage was evident in the combustion chamber. The top
> compression ring was intact hence the smooth but noisy running.
>
> Watch this space.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> On 4/23/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>> G'day
>>
>>
>> Here is something to get your collective minds around.
>>
>>
>> Yesterday morning we were 560 kilometres from home in the BN3  
>> having just
>> crossed some many kilometres of featureless plains and semi  
>> dessert. We
>> arrive in a large town looking for fuel and then suddenly an audible
>> clanging sound emanates from the engine. We immediately pull over to
>> investigate and despite much head scratching nothing significant  
>> can be
>> found. I disconnect the fan belt and also eliminate a rocker  
>> hitting the
>> rocker cover.
>>
>>
>> Six and a half hours of sitting in the back seats of a tilt tray  
>> truck we
>> arrive back home.
>>
>>
>> Today I removed the rocker cover and all valves are opening  
>> correctly,
> plus
>> the noise is still there. So what do we think the noise is? Oil  
>> pressure
> is
>> still good, so it probably isn't a slipped big end. It is  
>> definitely not
>> coming from the gearbox.
>>
>>
>> Without taking the engine out, my guess is a broken crankshaft.  
>> What's
>> yours?
>>
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>>
>> Patrick

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun May 29 07:24:08 2011
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 07:24:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Loud Metallic Click
In-Reply-To: <3168DE4E0E6048DEAB131E809D8FBF22@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <993B37B9DA34477FB5CB8C58340B3BAA@PatrickQuinnPC><BANLkTikM1C5=-rPt7qdCEoEvVnruDFE5hQ@mail.gmail.com><433E3C71026A4CDC97F7153AEF2AD284@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<3168DE4E0E6048DEAB131E809D8FBF22@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <E9201753C6734B83B6929BE4670E44F6@oscar>

..now it will be interesting to learn if it was merely metal fatigue or from
running too much ignition advance. 
Dave
PS you should be able to tell by the edges of the metal.
Sharp/jagged=fatigue or rounded/melted= preignition

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 5:12 AM
To: 'Patrick and Caroline Quinn'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Loud Metallic Click

G'day

Listers would recall the loud and expensive noises coming from the engine of
the BN3/1.

The engine is still in the car, but everything hanging off it has now been
removed. Yesterday my eldest son and I removed the cylinder head. It was a
struggle, but once the overdrive throttle switch was removed it was possible
to lift the head, move it sideways and then away from the engine.

At first glance everything appeared as it should be, but looking more
closely today, a 12mm by 5mm piece from the edge of the crown of the No 2
piston was missing. Small bits of aluminium were embedded in the top of the
piston and minor damage was evident in the combustion chamber. The top
compression ring was intact hence the smooth but noisy running.

Watch this space.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

  
On 4/23/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> G'day
>
>
>
> Here is something to get your collective minds around.
>
>
>
> Yesterday morning we were 560 kilometres from home in the BN3 having just
> crossed some many kilometres of featureless plains and semi dessert. We
> arrive in a large town looking for fuel and then suddenly an audible
> clanging sound emanates from the engine. We immediately pull over to
> investigate and despite much head scratching nothing significant can be
> found. I disconnect the fan belt and also eliminate a rocker hitting the
> rocker cover.
>
>
>
> Six and a half hours of sitting in the back seats of a tilt tray truck we
> arrive back home.
>
>
>
> Today I removed the rocker cover and all valves are opening correctly,
plus
> the noise is still there. So what do we think the noise is? Oil pressure
is
> still good, so it probably isn't a slipped big end. It is definitely not
> coming from the gearbox.
>
>
>
> Without taking the engine out, my guess is a broken crankshaft. What's
> yours?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun May 29 12:06:34 2011
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 14:06:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave??
Message-ID: <20110529.110644.1057.647362@mailpop11.dca.untd.com>

Hmmm, I don't think so. Conclave appears to be a term associated with
annual gatherings of Order of The Arrow Lodges. From a Google search:

"Conclaves
Each year the local Order of the Arrow Section holds an annual conclave
at different locations throughout the section area.  At these conclaves,
arrowmen can learn a variety of new skills in various training sessions
that are offered on Indian Lore, Service and camp promotions. You can
meet arrowmen from other lodges, trade patches and participate in Indian
dances. There are activities and competitions between lodges, sometimes
in games that you won't find anywhere else such as Indian Handball.  
During the conclaves, the new section officers are also elected by the
arrowmen for the coming year.  
At the end of the weekend two awards are given based on the competition.
The coveted Conclave Award is the overall top award for the weekend and
the Most Indian Lodge award for spirit.  Achewon Nimat has taken home
the Conclave Award 11 times and has won the Most Indian Lodge 7 times. 
The first Conclave of Section 12B was held in 1949 at Camp Lilienthal in
Marin county outside of the town of Fairfax and was hosted by Royaneh
Lodge 282 of the San Francisco Council.  The next year Machek NGult
hosted the second Conclave at the Oakland Tourist Club located about a
mile south of the former site of Camp Dimond in the Oakland hills."
For the inquiring minds on the list.
> Hmmm. Are you saying that replaced Jamboree?
> 
> Bill
> '53 BN1
> '61 BT7
> -- When I was younger, I could remember anything whether it had 
> happened 
> or not. But now my facilities are decaying and soon I shall be so I 
> 
> cannot remember anything but the things that never happened. - Mark 
> Twain
> 
> On 5/28/2011 8:09 PM, Jim Lesher wrote:
> > Walt Blank came up with the name  Conclave back in 1975 from an 
> old Boy Scout
> > term
> >
> > jim
> >
> >
> >> From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com
> >> Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 22:32:18 -0400
> >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com; pyoas at yahoo.com; eyera3 at gmail.com
> >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter
> >>
> >> Another trivia question - How did the term Conclave become the 
> name of our
> >> National Meet
> >>
> >> Jim Werner
> >> Louisville, Kentucky
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Groupon.com Official Site
1 huge daily deal on the best stuff to do in your city. Try it today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4de28b447146a132d87st05duc

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun May 29 19:02:36 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 18:02:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
In-Reply-To: <4DE24F09.8020508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <598740.91560.qm@web161210.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

With apologies, here's my take.  Pay no attention to your prejudices regarding
Pittsburgh, it's a vibrant city with a lot to offer.  Schenley park is a
fantastic place to see racing the way it used to be.  And Beaver Run is a
wonderful track as well (just don't ask me about the Viper I looped on the
uphill to the main straight}    Just go and have fun.  You'll thank me for
it!

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 5/29/11, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, May 29, 2011, 9:50 AM

Ralph,
I will be driving my BT7 tricarb to the PVGP and British Car Day again
this year.  I have heard concern from some of the competitors in the
races of the change in sanctioning bodies for the races at Schenley
Park.  As a spectator I would hate to see the prewar cars and less
powerful, smaller cars disappear from the proceedings in favor of larger
more powerful cars.  The race course itself is actually best suited to
the smaller cars and lower speeds that they run.  Though I can see the
need and desire to have some newer cars involved who have been
heretofore excluded.
What is the official line on this?
Charlie

On 5/29/2011 9:06 AM, Ralph Steinberg wrote:
> I realize that most of you do not own race cars but some of you do or know
> someone who does. And since you are on these lists you are into cars so why
> not come out to either the PVGP/VRG Historic races at BeaveRun or the
> Vintage Grand Prix at Schenley Park or better yet both. For those with
legal
> vintage race cars we have race groups for anything you may have (vintage
> here) For those with big Healeys we have groups at both venues for your
cars
> in most configurations. There may be a few cases with the big Healey that
> you are too modified for Schenley but I doubt it for Beaver. For those with
> Spridgets, well we have a couple of classes to run at Beaver and a Spridget
> only sprint race and 98% of the Spridgets are legal at Schenley this year.
> At Schenley there is one giant British car show to boot so the rest of you
> can show off your cars while you watch the racing. At Beaver we do not have
> a car show but we have interesting things to do besides wandering the
> paddocks and watching the races. The Kart track is open to the public.
>
> All monies raised go to our charities the Autistic Society of Pittsburgh
and
> the Allegheny School
>
> For more info you can either go to www.cloverleaf-auto.com and click the
> vintage racing link or got to www.pvgp.org
>
> Thanks and hope to see you their either as a spectator or participant
>
>
>
> Ralph Steinberg
>
> Director of Competition PVGP BeaveRun
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Mon May 30 10:56:26 2011
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 11:56:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????
In-Reply-To: <35EB5CF2-F828-491A-B423-3441A63DC7BF@aol.com>
References: <d9f2c.3b7f8b9c.3b13bc3b@aol.com>
	<35EB5CF2-F828-491A-B423-3441A63DC7BF@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00c901cc1eea$853a6900$8faf3b00$@qwest.net>

The following applies to the side shift gearbox, but I assume the center
shift would be the same.
When you remove the transmission from the bellhousing be sure to retain and
identify the end play shims for reassembly. The same is true when you remove
the OD. Do not misplace the shift rod buffer.
Caution:  Do not shift into gears with the gear box removed from the
bellhousing. If you look into the cavity in the bellhousing where the shift
rods go you should see a plastic buffer pad. It may be glued to the bottom
of the cavity. One purpose of the buffer pad is to prevent over extension of
the shift rods. If the 3/4 shift rod is over extended, the 3/4 sliding hub
will move past the detent and the 3 detent balls and springs will be
released. This not a big problem on disassembly, but if this happens after
assemble, you will get more practice in the dissembling process. 
After the top cover is removed (retain the 3 shift rod detent springs and
balls) proceed to the shift rods and shift forks. First remove plug over the
shift rod interlock port. There is an inter lock ball between each of the
shift rods. There are notches in the shift rod shafts where the inter lock
balls reside when in neutral.  When a shift rod moves in to a gear position,
the shift rod moves past the ball notch pushing the ball into the notch on
the adjoining shaft. This prevents more than one gear from being engaged at
the same time. Removal of the shift rods and forks is strait forward as is
the reverse gear and shaft. 
One tool you will need is a dummy laygear (some call this part the cluster
gear) shaft. The dummy laygear shaft is simply a rod or tube the same
diameter as the real shaft and  the same length as the laygear. The laygear
shaft measures .758 inch, so a dummy shaft at .750 will work just fine. It
can be a little shorter, but no longer as then the layshaft thrust washers
cannot be installed on reassembly. The dummy shaft is essential for
reassembly, but can also be used for disassembly.   You cannot remove the
input and output shaft with the laygear in place.  Place the dummy shaft
against the end of the real laygear  and push the laygear shaft out of the
gearbox case. Since the dummy shaft is shorter than the real shaft the
laygear will fall onto the bottom of the gearbox case. Now the input and
output shaft can be removed. Remember that the bearing between the input and
output shaft is simply 18 lose needle bearings. Be sure to collect all of
them. Once the input and output shafts are removed, the laygear  and thrust
washers can be removed.  Rebuilding the output shaft components is per the
workshop manual and diagrams. Assembly is the reverse.  Since the bearings
in each end of the laygear are loose needles,( 23 in each end) assembly is a
little tricky. Using a heavy grease position the 23 needles in one end of
the layshaft.  Carefully insert the dummy shaft.  Position the 23 needles in
the other  end of the layshaft. With the dummy shaft in place the laygear
can be placed in the bottom of the case.  Install the reverse gear and
shaft, output shaft and then the input shaft. Insert the real laygear shaft
into the case ( the notch in the end of the shaft goes forward as it engages
a cavity in the bellhousing to prevent rotation) just enough to hang a
thrust washer on the shaft. Now you must lift the laygear shaft to engage
the gears and line up the shaft with the holes in the case. Now push the
laygear shaft thru the laygear  pushing the dummy shaft out the other end.
Do not pull the dummy shaft out as this will allow the needles slide around.
With the laygear shaft fully installed, push  the laygear shaft into the
laygear just enough to allow slipping the other thrust washer between the
laygear and the case. Finally center the laygear shaft and reassemble the
rest of the gearbox. With the gearbox assembled it is tempting to shift thru
the gears. DO NOT, without having the bellhousing attached or you will be
doing the assembly all over again (see above)
A couple of other comments.   BJ8 gearbox's use caged needle bearings which
makes the job easier. You may not need a dummy shaft. The  input shafts
across the models are not interchangeable.
Hope this helps.
Herb Miller  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff Capezzuti
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 9:20 PM
To: zzuti1 at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????

I am in the beginning stages of planning to rebuild my original Gearbox.
The synchros are wearing out, and have never been replaced.  Does anyone
have any advice they'd be willing to share?

I have a few questions:

1.) Do you have to pull the engine and box out in order to access the
Gearbox?

2.) what is the best source to acquire the new synchros from?

3.) Is there anything else I should do while I've got it out?

4.). IF, I don't do this myself, what should it cost, and any
recommendations in the central Florida area?

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions!!!!

Thank You all!!!!

Jeff Capezzuti
(770) 313-4320
Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2011, at 11:11 AM, MBran89793 at aol.com wrote:

> FWIW It certainly appears that some Listers have forgotten that when 
> you change the Subject [Healeys] Chatter to a new subject  I.E. 
> 'Spanner" that the subject should be changed also.
> Just my $.02 worth.
> Marion
>
>
> In a message dated 5/29/2011 10:44:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> dcongleton at embarqmail.com writes:
>
> ("Actually it is from the German word spannen to stretch, span   :^)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jcapezzuti at aol.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon May 30 06:19:21 2011
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 08:19:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????
In-Reply-To: <35EB5CF2-F828-491A-B423-3441A63DC7BF@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4de38b4c.85c0e60a.0f30.566c@mx.google.com>

1.)  You can pull the gearbox without pulling the engine.  You will have to
remove the seats, carpeting, and parcel shelf.  Then you will need to
disconnect the hand brake cable underneath the car so that you can remove
the fiberglass gearbox cover.

2.)  The OEM synchros wear out quickly and some of the ones on the market
did not work properly from the start.  Buy a set of uprated ones from
British Car Specialists (NFI) or other source that checks out the quality
before they sell them.

3.)  While you have the box out you might as well replace the first and
third motion shaft bearings and the O-rings, and the accumulator piston
rings on the overdrive.  These last items can be replace with the gearbox in
place, but the task is easier when it is on the bench.

When you unbolt the bell housing from the rear engine plate, pay attention
to where each individual bolt goes.  Two of the bolts are "dowel bolts"
which are required to precisely position the gearbox so that the first
motion shaft lines up with the crank shaft.

When reassembling, be sure to put some grease on the pilot bearing.

Good luck,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Capezzuti
> Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 10:20 PM
> To: zzuti1 at aol.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????
> 
> I am in the beginning stages of planning to rebuild my original Gearbox.
> The
> synchros are wearing out, and have never been replaced.  Does anyone have
> any
> advice they'd be willing to share?
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> 1.) Do you have to pull the engine and box out in order to access the
> Gearbox?
> 
> 2.) what is the best source to acquire the new synchros from?
> 
> 3.) Is there anything else I should do while I've got it out?
> 
> 4.). IF, I don't do this myself, what should it cost, and any
> recommendations
> in the central Florida area?
> 
> I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions!!!!
> 
> Thank You all!!!!
> 
> Jeff Capezzuti
> (770) 313-4320
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On May 29, 2011, at 11:11 AM, MBran89793 at aol.com wrote:
> 
> > FWIW It certainly appears that some Listers have forgotten that when you
> > change the Subject [Healeys] Chatter to a new subject  I.E. 'Spanner"
> that
> > the subject should be changed also.
> > Just my $.02 worth.
> > Marion
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 5/29/2011 10:44:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > dcongleton at embarqmail.com writes:
> >
> > ("Actually it is from the German word spannen to stretch, span   :^)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jcapezzuti at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss at gmail.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon May 30 14:58:55 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 13:58:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave??
In-Reply-To: <20110529.110644.1057.647362@mailpop11.dca.untd.com>
References: <20110529.110644.1057.647362@mailpop11.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=5bujdKiff+BF9QaOAGMs=2KfpZA@mail.gmail.com>

It is used for OA event

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 30, 2011 1:46 PM, <dwflagg at juno.com> wrote:
> Hmmm, I don't think so. Conclave appears to be a term associated with
> annual gatherings of Order of The Arrow Lodges. From a Google search:
>
> "Conclaves
> Each year the local Order of the Arrow Section holds an annual conclave
> at different locations throughout the section area. At these conclaves,
> arrowmen can learn a variety of new skills in various training sessions
> that are offered on Indian Lore, Service and camp promotions. You can
> meet arrowmen from other lodges, trade patches and participate in Indian
> dances. There are activities and competitions between lodges, sometimes
> in games that you won't find anywhere else such as Indian Handball.
> During the conclaves, the new section officers are also elected by the
> arrowmen for the coming year.
> At the end of the weekend two awards are given based on the competition.
> The coveted Conclave Award is the overall top award for the weekend and
> the Most Indian Lodge award for spirit. Achewon Nimat has taken home
> the Conclave Award 11 times and has won the Most Indian Lodge 7 times.
> The first Conclave of Section 12B was held in 1949 at Camp Lilienthal in
> Marin county outside of the town of Fairfax and was hosted by Royaneh
> Lodge 282 of the San Francisco Council. The next year Machek N Gult
> hosted the second Conclave at the Oakland Tourist Club located about a
> mile south of the former site of Camp Dimond in the Oakland hills."
> For the inquiring minds on the list.
>> Hmmm. Are you saying that replaced Jamboree?
>>
>> Bill
>> '53 BN1
>> '61 BT7
>> -- When I was younger, I could remember anything whether it had
>> happened
>> or not. But now my facilities are decaying and soon I shall be so I
>>
>> cannot remember anything but the things that never happened. - Mark
>> Twain
>>
>> On 5/28/2011 8:09 PM, Jim Lesher wrote:
>> > Walt Blank came up with the name Conclave back in 1975 from an
>> old Boy Scout
>> > term
>> >
>> > jim
>> >
>> >
>> >> From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com
>> >> Date: Sat, 28 May 2011 22:32:18 -0400
>> >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com; pyoas at yahoo.com; eyera3 at gmail.com
>> >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter
>> >>
>> >> Another trivia question - How did the term Conclave become the
>> name of our
>> >> National Meet
>> >>
>> >> Jim Werner
>> >> Louisville, Kentucky
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> >
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com
>>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Groupon.com Official Site
> 1 huge daily deal on the best stuff to do in your city. Try it today!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4de28b447146a132d87st05duc
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Mon May 30 15:37:33 2011
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 17:37:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave
Message-ID: <BLU166-ds122F5105B56C1C5C29DBBB37B0@phx.gbl>

Within the first page of hits when I Google bConclaveb, we have:



B7        A papal conclave is a meeting of the College of Cardinals convened
to elect a Bishop of Rome, who becomes the pope, when there is a vacancy in
the office...



B7        a private meeting or secret assembly; especially : a meeting of
Roman Catholic cardinals secluded continuously while choosing a pope...



B7        a gathering of a group or association...

See conclave defined for English-language learners B;

See conclave defined for kids B;



B7        SigEp Conclave - This Fraternity Will Be Different

Conclave is the biennial gathering of the Grand Chapter. But it's so much more
than that. Having 1400 SigEps, spouses, and guests in one location is...



B7        Conclave

Oct 7, 2010 ... Annual science fiction convention held in Lansing with
programing for science fiction, fantasy, filk, costuming, anime, gaming and
kids.



I guess we can safely say bConclaveb has had a variety of uses before the
mid 70bs.  The Walt Blank comment is accurate; I have heard him repeatedly
say that he called the 1976 event bConclaveb after what certain Boy Scout
gatherings were called.



See you in Colorado Springs for Conclave Colorado 2011 (our 36th AHCA
Conclave)

GaryB

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of clip_image001[2].jpg]

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon May 30 15:41:10 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 14:41:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave??
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=5bujdKiff+BF9QaOAGMs=2KfpZA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <97667.45120.qm@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Does a Healey emitting white smoke at Conclave signify a new Pope or a new head gasket?

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 5/30/11, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

From: I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave??
To: dwflagg at juno.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, May 30, 2011, 4:58 PM

It is used for OA event

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR



On May 30, 2011 1:46 PM, <dwflagg at juno.com> wrote:
> Hmmm, I don't think so. Conclave appears to be a term associated with
> annual gatherings of Order of The Arrow Lodges. From a Google search:

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon May 30 15:48:20 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 14:48:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
Message-ID: <87605.33229.qm@web161212.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, May 29, 2011, 9:02 PM

With apologies, here's my take.  Pay no attention to your prejudices regarding
Pittsburgh, it's a vibrant city with a lot to offer.  Schenley park is a
fantastic place to see racing the way it used to be.  And Beaver Run is a
wonderful track as well (just don't ask me about the Viper I looped on the
uphill to the main straight}    Just go and have fun.  You'll thank me for
it!

The VSCCA which sanctioned the historics in the past has had some issues with
trying to put on a race in the streets of Springfield, MA: 
http://www.masslive.com/opinion/index.ssf/2011/05/editorial_vintage_car_race_
hit.html

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 5/29/11, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, May 29, 2011, 9:50 AM

Ralph,
I will be driving my BT7 tricarb to the PVGP and British Car Day again
this year.  I have heard concern from some of the competitors in the
races of the change in sanctioning bodies for the races at Schenley
Park.  As a spectator I would hate to see the prewar cars and less
powerful, smaller cars disappear from the proceedings in favor of larger
more powerful cars.  The race course itself is actually best suited to
the smaller cars and lower speeds that they
 run.  Though I can see the
need and desire to have some newer cars involved who have been
heretofore excluded.
What is the official line on this?
Charlie

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 30 17:34:52 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 18:34:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
In-Reply-To: <87605.33229.qm@web161212.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <87605.33229.qm@web161212.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DE4299C.3030707@justbrits.com>

<< The VSCCA which sanctioned the historics in the past has had some 
issues with trying to put on a race in the streets of Springfield, MA: >>

They MOVED it Rick !!

*http://tinyurl.com/4467xaf

*Ed's LONG one:

http://www.masslive.com/hampfrank/republican/index.ssf?/base/news-32/130622352597920.xml&coll=1

RICK's* *LONG one*:
*

http://www.masslive.com/opinion/index.ssf/2011/05/editorial_vintage_car_race_
hit.html

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Mon May 30 17:50:35 2011
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 16:50:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave??
In-Reply-To: <97667.45120.qm@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <97667.45120.qm@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DE42D4B.8050405@pacbell.net>

Very clever, Rick! Geoff was always smoking a pipe. I never saw any 
other Healey smoking. I would hope it would signify something more 
important than a new head gasket!

Bill
'53 BN1
'61 BT7
Eagle Scout w/ Order of the Arrow Brotherhood
> -- When I was younger, I could remember anything whether it had 
> happened or not. But now my facilities are decaying and soon I shall 
> be so I cannot remember anything but the things that never happened. - 
> Mark Twain
> Does a Healey emitting white smoke at Conclave signify a new Pope or a new head gasket?
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Mon, 5/30/11, I Erbs<eyera3 at gmail.com>  wrote:
>
> From: I Erbs<eyera3 at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave??
> To:dwflagg at juno.com
> Cc:healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, May 30, 2011, 4:58 PM
>
> It is used for OA event
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On May 30, 2011 1:46 PM,<dwflagg at juno.com>  wrote:
>> Hmmm, I don't think so. Conclave appears to be a term associated with
>> annual gatherings of Order of The Arrow Lodges. From a Google search:
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon May 30 17:55:34 2011
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 16:55:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Formerly  Chatter, Then Conclave vs Jamboree,
 Now  Boy Scouts - With some Healey content.
In-Reply-To: <4DE280C4.1050304@pacbell.net>
References: <ce0a.3ebe93e5.3b130a32@aol.com><SNT133-w54BE81EBBE5D3348ED04C0C5780@phx.gbl>
	<4DE280C4.1050304@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <7D685911FF05447E8F2F0E36693A322A@LeonardPCPC>

Bill:  As stated, Conclave is a gathering of members of the Boy Scout's 
Order of the Arrow.  It is primarily for training.  A recent Conclave was 
held at Coast Guard Island, Alameda, CA.  The promotions for the program 
included, "...If you like food, fun, scuba, sports, games, Indian dancing, 
and pretty much anything else, then you will love conclave!...".  There were 
also Leadership Seminars and a tour of a 374 foot Coast Guard vessel.

Jamboree, on the other hand, is a gathering of Cub Scouts, Boy Scouts, and 
Explorer Scouts to show off their Scouting skills.  Locally, it is supposed 
to be open to the public as a way to 'advertise' the program and encourage 
membership.

The National Scout Jamboree is a gathering, or jamboree of thousands of 
members of the Boy Scouts of America, usually held every four years and 
organized by the National Council of the Boy Scouts of America.  A jamboree 
is held for several consecutive days and offers many activities for youth 
participants and the 300,000 members of the general public who visit it. It 
is considered to be Scouting at its best (Wikipedia).  In 2010, 43,434 
Scouts participated at Fort A. P. Hill, Virginia.

Now for Healey content:  Future 50 is the program devoted to those future 
owners of our beloved Austin Healeys.  If we want to get to know the younger 
generations and interest them in the Austin Healey automobiles, maybe a 
Future 50 booth should be set up at the National Jamboree.  ;-)

(The Other) Len  -  Scoutmaster Troop 800, 1972 - 1987
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mr. Bill" <bn1 at pacbell.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chatter


> Hmmm. Are you saying that replaced Jamboree?
>
> Bill
> '53 BN1
> '61 BT7

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Mon May 30 17:58:49 2011
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 19:58:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Off-Topic - MGTD
Message-ID: <4DE42F39.1000305@verizon.net>

     Last August I posted about a TD for sale here near Pittsburgh (20 
miles south and east).

     I spoke with the owner last evening and he says he now "has to move 
it".

     He didn't quote a price and I haven't seen the car. Supposedly it 
has a lot of interesting spares with it; two new bumpers, new engine 
parts (including a crank) in the original packaging, etc.

     If anyone is interested, contact me off-list and I'll put you in 
touch. If anyone crosses over to the MG list, let them know there and 
feel free to forward my e-mail address.

     Thanks, regards,

                                                                         
             CB

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon May 30 18:19:02 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 20:19:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
In-Reply-To: <87605.33229.qm@web161212.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <87605.33229.qm@web161212.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004b01cc1f28$588b5160$09a1f420$@verizon.net>

The only thing bad about Pittsburgh is the Steelers

John Sims, BN6 49er and Green Bay fan.
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 5:48 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics

From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BeaveRun Historics
To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, May 29, 2011, 9:02 PM

With apologies, here's my take.  Pay no attention to your prejudices
regarding Pittsburgh, it's a vibrant city with a lot to offer.  Schenley
park is a fantastic place to see racing the way it used to be.  And Beaver
Run is a wonderful track as well (just don't ask me about the Viper I looped
on the
uphill to the main straight}    Just go and have fun.  You'll thank me for
it!

The VSCCA which sanctioned the historics in the past has had some issues
with trying to put on a race in the streets of Springfield, MA:
http://www.masslive.com/opinion/index.ssf/2011/05/editorial_vintage_car_race
_
hit.html

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon May 30 18:30:15 2011
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 19:30:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Formerly  Chatter, Then Conclave vs Jamboree,
 Now   Boy Scouts - With some Healey content.
In-Reply-To: <7D685911FF05447E8F2F0E36693A322A@LeonardPCPC>
References: <ce0a.3ebe93e5.3b130a32@aol.com><SNT133-w54BE81EBBE5D3348ED04C0C5780@phx.gbl>
	<4DE280C4.1050304@pacbell.net>
	<7D685911FF05447E8F2F0E36693A322A@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <4DE43697.6060102@justbrits.com>

<< If we want to get to know the younger generations and interest them 
in the Austin Healey automobiles, maybe a Future 50 booth should be set 
up at the National Jamboree.  >>

FANTASTIC idea, { The Other ], Len !!!

Prolly still a good idea for Regionals if it's known that past ones are
REALLY well-attended ?!?

Ed
1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
3]  Don't miss the big Midget 50th Birthday Party at:
     "Road America" in beautiful Elkhart, WI !!
     http://sprite-midgetclub.org/  

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon May 30 18:42:52 2011
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 20:42:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Conclaves
Message-ID: <4c82a.448cdd76.3b15938c@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/30/11 1:48:55 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> Hmmm, I don't think so. Conclave appears to be a term associated with
> annual gatherings of Order of The Arrow Lodges. From a Google search:
> 
> "Conclaves
> Each year the local Order of the Arrow Section holds an annual conclave
> 

I can say for absolutely sure that Chuck Anderson selected the term 
Conclave for the AHCA annual gatherings from his experience in the Boy Scouts 
because he told me so, with a group of equally old-guard folks (e.g. Walt Blanck) 
in attendence, all of whom nodded in agreement. (And I doubt seriously if 
Chuck would even have known what a papal gathering of bishops would have been 
called, anyhow.)
And that's the truth.
Gary

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon May 30 18:49:49 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 17:49:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclaves
In-Reply-To: <4c82a.448cdd76.3b15938c@aol.com>
References: <4c82a.448cdd76.3b15938c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=efxxrJ40+uxhPpqWzMoSevRr72A@mail.gmail.com>

OA is a service organizTion associated with Boy Scouts of America.
I have been an OA member for 6 years and Scouter (adult leader)
For 10years
troop 229
Pirtland,or

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 30, 2011 5:46 PM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 5/30/11 1:48:55 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
>> Hmmm, I don't think so. Conclave appears to be a term associated with
>> annual gatherings of Order of The Arrow Lodges. From a Google search:
>>
>> "Conclaves
>> Each year the local Order of the Arrow Section holds an annual conclave
>>
>
> I can say for absolutely sure that Chuck Anderson selected the term
> Conclave for the AHCA annual gatherings from his experience in the Boy
Scouts
> because he told me so, with a group of equally old-guard folks (e.g. Walt
Blanck)
> in attendence, all of whom nodded in agreement. (And I doubt seriously if
> Chuck would even have known what a papal gathering of bishops would have
been
> called, anyhow.)
> And that's the truth.
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Mon May 30 18:58:25 2011
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 17:58:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Formerly  Chatter, Then Conclave vs Jamboree,
 Now   Boy Scouts - With some Healey content.
In-Reply-To: <4DE43697.6060102@justbrits.com>
References: <ce0a.3ebe93e5.3b130a32@aol.com><SNT133-w54BE81EBBE5D3348ED04C0C5780@phx.gbl>
	<4DE280C4.1050304@pacbell.net>
	<7D685911FF05447E8F2F0E36693A322A@LeonardPCPC>
	<4DE43697.6060102@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4DE43D31.1010102@pacbell.net>

Only problem is that a person  of their age can no longer afford them. 
When I started in 1972, you could buy a running Big Healey for $600.

Bill
> -- When I was younger, I could remember anything whether it had 
> happened or not. But now my facilities are decaying and soon I shall 
> be so I cannot remember anything but the things that never happened. - 
> Mark Twain
> << If we want to get to know the younger generations and interest them 
> in the Austin Healey automobiles, maybe a Future 50 booth should be 
> set up at the National Jamboree. >>
>
> FANTASTIC idea, { The Other ], Len !!!
>
> Prolly still a good idea for Regionals if it's known that past ones are
> REALLY well-attended ?!?
>
> Ed
> 1]  Please visit MY site at:               www.justbrits.com
> 2]  Please visit Frank C.'s site at:   www.spritenut.com
>    Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED !
> 3]  Don't miss the big Midget 50th Birthday Party at:
>     "Road America" in beautiful Elkhart, WI !!
>     http://sprite-midgetclub.org/  
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon May 30 19:15:05 2011
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 18:15:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Formerly  Chatter, Then Conclave vs Jamboree,
 Now    Boy Scouts - With some Healey content.
In-Reply-To: <4DE43D31.1010102@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <832761.75574.qm@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Too true.  That's more reason to concentrate on Spridgets, that are still
affordable.  When i attended Frank Clarici's funeral, I was pleasantly
surprised at how many younger Spridgeteers were there.  Maybe in a few yearrs,
these will be the guys and gals with the means and interest to buy a big
Healey.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 5/30/11, Mr. Bill <bn1 at pacbell.net> wrote:

From: Mr. Bill <bn1 at pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Formerly  Chatter, Then Conclave vs Jamboree, Now   Boy
Scouts - With some Healey content.
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, May 30, 2011, 8:58 PM

Only problem is that a person  of their age can no longer afford them. When I
started in 1972, you could buy a running Big Healey for $600.

Bill

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon May 30 19:16:09 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 18:16:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing
Message-ID: <COL121-W186E5059DAAE50A569809AA47A0@phx.gbl>

I have removed the rear bearing in order to replace the seal. I am putting the
same bearing back in. It came out easily but will not go the last 3 mms to sit
against the new seal. I have used a vice to force it in but no joy.   I am
thinking of using a torch to heat the hub but I don't want to harm the new
seal. Any other suggestions?
Thanks'
Richard Kahn

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 30 20:50:31 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 22:50:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tappets,or  Lifter wear
Message-ID: <000c01cc1f3d$823b9230$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I have 3 tappets in my 4 cylinder MGA with a few pit marks.  Can these be
gently polished back to a smooth service (machine shop) and reused  till I
want to get a full set, or do I need to purchase three new tappets now.  The
cam lobes do not show any noticeable wear in these areas and the other tappets
are smooth.

What say you class?

Mark

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon May 30 21:26:03 2011
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 23:26:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclaves
In-Reply-To: <4c82a.448cdd76.3b15938c@aol.com>
References: <4c82a.448cdd76.3b15938c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DE45FCB.6040100@earthlink.net>

Lilly Tomlin on Laugh-In?  Usually followed by Phttttt?


On 05/30/2011 08:42 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

> And that's the truth.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon May 30 21:46:38 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 11:46:38 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W186E5059DAAE50A569809AA47A0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W186E5059DAAE50A569809AA47A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikebKotNfZmvZSeO7g_-GzYArVCQg@mail.gmail.com>

Richard -

The bearing is not designed to go all the way in and sit against the seal.
 If you read your manual about the rear bearing, it is supposed to protrude
the surface a couple of MM, I don't know the exact measurement.  Look at the
manual.  Once the gasket is on, it will be more or less flush with the paper
gasket.

Alan

On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 9:16 AM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> I have removed the rear bearing in order to replace the seal. I am putting
> the
> same bearing back in. It came out easily but will not go the last 3 mms to
> sit
> against the new seal. I have used a vice to force it in but no joy.   I am
> thinking of using a torch to heat the hub but I don't want to harm the new
> seal. Any other suggestions?
> Thanks'
> Richard Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon May 30 21:48:43 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 11:48:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tappets,or Lifter wear
In-Reply-To: <000c01cc1f3d$823b9230$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000c01cc1f3d$823b9230$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikSxxjd2SAL9VAXhAeb6KQN-7bUYA@mail.gmail.com>

Regrinding Tappets is normal.  Give it to the Machine shop and let them tell
you if they are salvageable or not.  One advantage is you will know that
they will grind it with the correct surface that causes these to rotate
slightly when moving... sometimes the manufacturers screw this up and the
tappets wear.

Cheers,

Alan

On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 10:50 AM, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I have 3 tappets in my 4 cylinder MGA with a few pit marks.  Can these be
> gently polished back to a smooth service (machine shop) and reused  till I
> want to get a full set, or do I need to purchase three new tappets now.
>  The
> cam lobes do not show any noticeable wear in these areas and the other
> tappets
> are smooth.
>
> What say you class?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon May 30 22:06:31 2011
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 23:06:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tappets,or Lifter wear
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikSxxjd2SAL9VAXhAeb6KQN-7bUYA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000c01cc1f3d$823b9230$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<BANLkTikSxxjd2SAL9VAXhAeb6KQN-7bUYA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1E40E4E0A4D145659D3737B86F921AA2@GregPC>

Delta Cams does this service if you can't find someone locally, they are 
very reasonable, have quick turnaround, and I have had them do a couple sets 
for me with no problems.  http://deltacam.com/

Greg Lemon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tappets,or Lifter wear


> Regrinding Tappets is normal.  Give it to the Machine shop and let them 
> tell
> you if they are salvageable or not.  One advantage is you will know that
> they will grind it with the correct surface that causes these to rotate
> slightly when moving... sometimes the manufacturers screw this up and the
> tappets wear.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 10:50 AM, Mark LaPierre 
> <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>wrote:
>
>> I have 3 tappets in my 4 cylinder MGA with a few pit marks.  Can these be
>> gently polished back to a smooth service (machine shop) and reused  till 
>> I
>> want to get a full set, or do I need to purchase three new tappets now.
>>  The
>> cam lobes do not show any noticeable wear in these areas and the other
>> tappets
>> are smooth.
>>
>> What say you class?
>>
>> Mark
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon May 30 22:10:58 2011
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 21:10:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tappets,or Lifter wear
In-Reply-To: <000c01cc1f3d$823b9230$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000c01cc1f3d$823b9230$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=QEkWX1=WgO2z3ZiXUPCjnC+Bj3A@mail.gmail.com>

If you look closely, you will see that the bottom of a tappet is not flat.
if it is, you have a problem.  The bottom of a tappet is crowned ever so
slightly.  Put a straight edge on it and you will see I am right.  the
radius is of a 40 inch diameter curve, I was told.
Take them to a machine shop and get an expert opinion.
PS take the cam also
Rick

On Mon, May 30, 2011 at 7:50 PM, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I have 3 tappets in my 4 cylinder MGA with a few pit marks.  Can these be
> gently polished back to a smooth service (machine shop) and reused  till I
> want to get a full set, or do I need to purchase three new tappets now.
>  The
> cam lobes do not show any noticeable wear in these areas and the other
> tappets
> are smooth.
>
> What say you class?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Mon May 30 23:20:04 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 00:20:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Float bowl washers correct order
Message-ID: <CA3A4594-51DA-4575-A2BA-167107EB520C@yahoo.com>

What is the correct order of the washers in the float bowl...?

I have float boal lid, red fiber washer, overflow pipe, bracket, aluminium
washer, nut.

Is this correct ?


Sent from my iPad

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue May 31 00:17:07 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 14:17:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Float bowl washers correct order
In-Reply-To: <CA3A4594-51DA-4575-A2BA-167107EB520C@yahoo.com>
References: <CA3A4594-51DA-4575-A2BA-167107EB520C@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTin-6rvG9PROhRX_bXnSUtbLyth6Kw@mail.gmail.com>

Jose -

Correct!  The fibre washer with the funny slots is on the bottom, and the
aluminum one goes on top.  You need the fibre slotted one at the bottom so
that your float bowl doesn't become pressurized when you turn the fuel pump
on!  You will get fuel spraying out of your carb like a fuel injector!

Cheers,

Alan

On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 1:20 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>wrote:

> What is the correct order of the washers in the float bowl...?
>
> I have float boal lid, red fiber washer, overflow pipe, bracket, aluminium
> washer, nut.
>
> Is this correct ?
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Tue May 31 00:52:26 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 08:52:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
Message-ID: <B66A166CD9864B64BA5FA5C1E9C5635C@TM1>

Hello,

I have the rear license plate bracket, but I am not sure which way to mount
it - there are actually 4 ways to do it.

Also, did the connectors sit on the outside of the car or the inside?

Best, Tadek

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue May 31 01:13:49 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 15:13:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
In-Reply-To: <B66A166CD9864B64BA5FA5C1E9C5635C@TM1>
References: <B66A166CD9864B64BA5FA5C1E9C5635C@TM1>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=4nfSHpbzGoLVYKOxqrjEwEXd1OQ@mail.gmail.com>

The bracket actually bolts to the bottom of the shroud under the
bumper so that the hidden license plate light can shine on it.

On 5/31/11, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have the rear license plate bracket, but I am not sure which way to mount
> it - there are actually 4 ways to do it.
>
> Also, did the connectors sit on the outside of the car or the inside?
>
> Best, Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Tue May 31 01:42:16 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 09:42:16 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=4nfSHpbzGoLVYKOxqrjEwEXd1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <94A80B3897ED401BBD1D863CCAB9740D@TM1>

Alan, does it bolt to the bumper or the shroud??

And which way??.. Which side faces the license plate light & which side goes
up??..

BR, Tadek

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 9:14 AM
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2

The bracket actually bolts to the bottom of the shroud under the
bumper so that the hidden license plate light can shine on it.

On 5/31/11, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have the rear license plate bracket, but I am not sure which way to
mount
> it - there are actually 4 ways to do it.
>
> Also, did the connectors sit on the outside of the car or the inside?
>
> Best, Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of License plate light bracket 1.JPG]

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com  Tue May 31 03:39:22 2011
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 11:39:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
In-Reply-To: <C3A20D6B88C3E9458E33D84824156BEB5D83B6809E@HE111644.EMEA1.CDS.T-INTERNAL.COM>
Message-ID: <C6BC1D1C364440C99FDD261E818D2AC2@TM1>

Ooops.

One word was missing rear license plate _light_ bracket...

So my question should read: what way should the rear license plate light
bracket should go..

Best, Tadek

-----Original Message-----
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com [mailto:Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 11:31 AM
To: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com
Subject: AW: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2

Tadek,
Have a look to this picture.
http://www.limora.com/index/lang-1/lkz-176/markenid-1/katnr-1/kat_sprache-2/
hrubnr-17/rubrik-102/tpl-clickable_vertikal.tpl,x-a.htm
It is bolted to the shroud.
BR Josef

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Im Auftrag von Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Gesendet: Dienstag, 31. Mai 2011 09:42
An: 'Alan Seigrist'; healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2

Alan, does it bolt to the bumper or the shroud??

And which way??.. Which side faces the license plate light & which side goes
up??..

BR, Tadek

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 9:14 AM
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2

The bracket actually bolts to the bottom of the shroud under the bumper so
that the hidden license plate light can shine on it.

On 5/31/11, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have the rear license plate bracket, but I am not sure which way to
mount
> it - there are actually 4 ways to do it.
>
> Also, did the connectors sit on the outside of the car or the inside?
>
> Best, Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

--
Sent from my mobile device

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
License plate light bracket 1.JPG]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef.eckert at t-systems.com

From jvvmusme at yahoo.com  Tue May 31 05:08:48 2011
From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 06:08:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Float bowl washers correct order
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTin-6rvG9PROhRX_bXnSUtbLyth6Kw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA3A4594-51DA-4575-A2BA-167107EB520C@yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTin-6rvG9PROhRX_bXnSUtbLyth6Kw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D874399B-1F49-49DF-80C1-2B6FD70D3FD6@yahoo.com>

Yes ! But my concern is after the overflow pipe....

Is the order overflow pipe, bracket, aliminuim washer, nut

Or is it

Overflow pipe, aluminium washer, bracket, nut



Sent from my iPad


On May 31, 2011, at 1:17 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Jose -
>
> Correct!  The fibre washer with the funny slots is on the bottom, and the
aluminum one goes on top.  You need the fibre slotted one at the bottom so
that your float bowl doesn't become pressurized when you turn the fuel pump
on!  You will get fuel spraying out of your carb like a fuel injector!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 1:20 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at yahoo.com>
wrote:
> What is the correct order of the washers in the float bowl...?
>
> I have float boal lid, red fiber washer, overflow pipe, bracket, aluminium
> washer, nut.
>
> Is this correct ?
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 31 05:12:16 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 07:12:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
References: <B66A166CD9864B64BA5FA5C1E9C5635C@TM1>
Message-ID: <002f01cc1f83$9a9f4dd0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Could send you some pics if we knew what series car you have.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 2:52 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2


> Hello,
>
> I have the rear license plate bracket, but I am not sure which way to 
> mount
> it - there are actually 4 ways to do it.
>
> Also, did the connectors sit on the outside of the car or the inside?
>
> Best, Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 31 05:14:43 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 07:14:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
References: <B66A166CD9864B64BA5FA5C1E9C5635C@TM1>
Message-ID: <003201cc1f83$f2210990$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

OOPs,  I just found it  in your subject line,  sorry.

MARK

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 2:52 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2


> Hello,
>
> I have the rear license plate bracket, but I am not sure which way to 
> mount
> it - there are actually 4 ways to do it.
>
> Also, did the connectors sit on the outside of the car or the inside?
>
> Best, Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 31 05:23:06 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 07:23:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
References: <B66A166CD9864B64BA5FA5C1E9C5635C@TM1>
Message-ID: <000201cc1f85$1d7b8f10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Page 94 of the Austin Healey Restoration guide by Anderson and Moment.  This 
is a 3000
but should be very similar to what you need.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 2:52 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2


> Hello,
>
> I have the rear license plate bracket, but I am not sure which way to 
> mount
> it - there are actually 4 ways to do it.
>
> Also, did the connectors sit on the outside of the car or the inside?
>
> Best, Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue May 31 07:10:06 2011
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 23:10:06 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave??
In-Reply-To: <4DE42D4B.8050405@pacbell.net>
References: <97667.45120.qm@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<4DE42D4B.8050405@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <21AB9B73-54B2-4FD5-A417-80DA07C62BAE@gmail.com>

I never met Donald Healey, but I'm pretty sure in a magazine   
advertisement for Scotch Whiskey in the mid to late 1950's he was  
smoking/ holding a cigarette. Maybe someone else can confirm?
And yes, most of us who met Geoff remember him smoking a pipe.
Margot Healey actually gave me one of Geoff's pipes a few years after  
Geoff died.
Geoff was a great guy. And it was a very personal item to remember him  
by. It even has a finger print smudged in Austin Healey engine enamel  
on it.
I was really touched.
Best.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 31/05/2011, at 9:50 AM, "Mr. Bill" <bn1 at pacbell.net> wrote:

> Very clever, Rick! Geoff was always smoking a pipe. I never saw any  
> other Healey smoking. I would hope it would signify something more  
> important than a new head gasket!
>
> Bill
> '53 BN1
> '61 BT7
> Eagle Scout w/ Order of the Arrow Brotherhood
>> -- When I was younger, I could remember anything whether it had  
>> happened or not. But now my facilities are decaying and soon I  
>> shall be so I cannot remember anything but the things that never  
>> happened. - Mark Twain
>> Does a Healey emitting white smoke at Conclave signify a new Pope  
>> or a new head gasket?

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue May 31 07:29:18 2011
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 09:29:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smoking
Message-ID: <007a01cc1f96$bfa0be80$3ee23b80$@verizon.net>

I am changing the subject to fit the last post and to ask a question. My
eagle eyes just noticed after almost 20 years that I do not have the insert
"basket" for the ash tray. So much for being a non-smoker. Any ideas where I
can get one?? BCS??

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 9:10 AM
To: Mr. Bill
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave??

I never met Donald Healey, but I'm pretty sure in a magazine
advertisement for Scotch Whiskey in the mid to late 1950's he was smoking/
holding a cigarette. Maybe someone else can confirm?
And yes, most of us who met Geoff remember him smoking a pipe.
Margot Healey actually gave me one of Geoff's pipes a few years after Geoff
died.
Geoff was a great guy. And it was a very personal item to remember him by.
It even has a finger print smudged in Austin Healey engine enamel on it.
I was really touched.
Best.
Chris

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue May 31 07:30:46 2011
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 21:30:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
In-Reply-To: <94A80B3897ED401BBD1D863CCAB9740D@TM1>
References: <BANLkTi=4nfSHpbzGoLVYKOxqrjEwEXd1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<94A80B3897ED401BBD1D863CCAB9740D@TM1>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinAePBK8w_CR1BBFwMfJvGsmWgEqg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi tadek -

The rear bumper fits with the two captive nut mounts on the bottom.
Then this bracket mounts to the captive nuts.  The license plate light
then mounts on top of the bracket, facing rearward.  It faces back and
slightly downward, shining on the license plate mounted on the lower
shroud.

All in all a very elegant and clean solution using old clunky 50s technology....

Alan

On 5/31/11, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:
> Alan, does it bolt to the bumper or the shroud??
>
> And which way??.. Which side faces the license plate light & which side goes
> up??..
>
> BR, Tadek
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 9:14 AM
> To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear license palte bracket on BN2
>
> The bracket actually bolts to the bottom of the shroud under the
> bumper so that the hidden license plate light can shine on it.
>
> On 5/31/11, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> I have the rear license plate bracket, but I am not sure which way to
> mount
>> it - there are actually 4 ways to do it.
>>
>> Also, did the connectors sit on the outside of the car or the inside?
>>
>> Best, Tadek
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue May 31 07:43:17 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 09:43:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikebKotNfZmvZSeO7g_-GzYArVCQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL121-W186E5059DAAE50A569809AA47A0@phx.gbl>
	<BANLkTikebKotNfZmvZSeO7g_-GzYArVCQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc1f98$b2795d50$176c17f0$@rr.com>

The shop manual says:  "When re-assembling [the bearing hub] it is essential
that the outer face of the bearing spacer should protrude from .001 in.
(.025 mm.) to .004 in. (.1 mm.) beyond the outer face of the hub and the
paper washer, when the bearing is pressed into position.  This ensures that
the bearing is gripped between the abutment shoulder in the hub and the
driving flange of the axle shaft."

I achieved this measurement by using two 0.003 front wheel bearing shims
equally spaced around the flange of the hub housing with the bearing spacer
on top of the bearing, and the paper gasket in place.  Using a metal bar
spanning across the bearing spacer, I tapped on the bar to press in the
bearing and spacer until the bar was seated on the shims on each side.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:47 PM
To: Richard Kahn
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing

Richard -

The bearing is not designed to go all the way in and sit against the seal.
 If you read your manual about the rear bearing, it is supposed to protrude
the surface a couple of MM, I don't know the exact measurement.  Look at the
manual.  Once the gasket is on, it will be more or less flush with the paper
gasket.

Alan

From medlabinc at msn.com  Tue May 31 08:36:37 2011
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 07:36:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Healey Sighting
Message-ID: <COL109-DS36386571624E6CB69FAEBA27A0@phx.gbl>

Was your sighting Healey Blue, luggage rack, top up ?

Dick Matson / Bj8



----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeylist<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 7:32 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting


Sunday afternoon on Hwy. 2 in eastern Washington state.  Anyone on the List?

That was me in the red/black BJ8.


Bob

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA
bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 31 08:38:26 2011
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 07:38:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing
In-Reply-To: <000001cc1f98$b2795d50$176c17f0$@rr.com>
References: <COL121-W186E5059DAAE50A569809AA47A0@phx.gbl>
	<BANLkTikebKotNfZmvZSeO7g_-GzYArVCQg@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001cc1f98$b2795d50$176c17f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4DE4FD62.8040804@comcast.net>

These instructions have always cornfused me.  If the bearing is pressed against the  "... abutment shoulder in the hub 
..." there won't be much adjustment possible (unless you have a press strong enough to compress the hardened steel 
bearing race, and distort it).  The only way to adjust the 'protrusion' would be to use differing width spacers.  I've 
always interpreted this as 'make sure the spacer is at least a slight bit above the face of the hub.'  If it isn't, you 
probably have an ill-fitting bearing.

Or am I missing something?

Bob


On 5/31/2011 6:43 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:
> The shop manual says:  "When re-assembling [the bearing hub] it is essential
> that the outer face of the bearing spacer should protrude from .001 in.
> (.025 mm.) to .004 in. (.1 mm.) beyond the outer face of the hub and the
> paper washer, when the bearing is pressed into position.  This ensures that
> the bearing is gripped between the abutment shoulder in the hub and the
> driving flange of the axle shaft."
>
> I achieved this measurement by using two 0.003 front wheel bearing shims
> equally spaced around the flange of the hub housing with the bearing spacer
> on top of the bearing, and the paper gasket in place.  Using a metal bar
> spanning across the bearing spacer, I tapped on the bar to press in the
> bearing and spacer until the bar was seated on the shims on each side.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666	
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue May 31 09:19:08 2011
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 11:19:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing
In-Reply-To: <4DE4FD62.8040804@comcast.net>
References: <COL121-W186E5059DAAE50A569809AA47A0@phx.gbl>
	<BANLkTikebKotNfZmvZSeO7g_-GzYArVCQg@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001cc1f98$b2795d50$176c17f0$@rr.com>
	<4DE4FD62.8040804@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001501cc1fa6$1645ff20$42d1fd60$@rr.com>

I agree that the instructions are a bit confusing.  Without having
engineering drawings of the hub or taking precise measurements of the hub
and bearing, one would never actually know if the bearing is completely
seated against the abutment shoulder when the bearing is pressed in to the
dimension specified.  My thinking was that if the spacer had to protrude
0.001 to 0.004 inch above the hub flange surface, then the only way to
accomplish that would be to press the bearing in until the measurement was
achieved, and let the far side of the bearing outer race be wherever it was.

Whatever, it has been 56,000 miles since I did this job and no problems so
far.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 10:38 AM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing

These instructions have always cornfused me.  If the bearing is pressed
against the  "... abutment shoulder in the hub 
..." there won't be much adjustment possible (unless you have a press strong
enough to compress the hardened steel 
bearing race, and distort it).  The only way to adjust the 'protrusion'
would be to use differing width spacers.  I've 
always interpreted this as 'make sure the spacer is at least a slight bit
above the face of the hub.'  If it isn't, you 
probably have an ill-fitting bearing.

Or am I missing something?

Bob

From warthodson at aol.com  Tue May 31 09:38:46 2011
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 11:38:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing
In-Reply-To: <4DE4FD62.8040804@comcast.net>
References: <COL121-W186E5059DAAE50A569809AA47A0@phx.gbl><BANLkTikebKotNfZmvZSeO7g_-GzYArVCQg@mail.gmail.com><000001cc1f98$b2795d50$176c17f0$@rr.com>
	<4DE4FD62.8040804@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CDEDBFF6892FB0-660-72115@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com>

According to the parts book there was only one spacer available, (not several
thicknesses to choose from). In my limited experience (four rear axle
rebuilds) the bearing & spacer always have resulted in them being about .004"
to .006" proud of the flange surface, not including the gasket. To achieve the
.001" minimum specified in the manual would require a gasket of about .003"
thickness, which I believe was typical of the original gaskets. However, the
currently available gaskets that I have received from Moss & Victoria British
are more like .012" plus or minus. The new gaskets do make good templates for
making your own gasket using regular paper which is about .003"-.004" thick.
The only challenge in making a gasket for this application is getting the
holes for the studs in the correct locations. Hole punches are the only
special tool required unless you consider a pair of scissors a special tool.
Gary Hodson





-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, May 31, 2011 9:38 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] remountinbg rear bearing


These instructions have always cornfused me. If the bearing is pressed against
the "... abutment shoulder in the hub ..." there won't be much adjustment
possible (unless you have a press strong enough to compress the hardened steel
bearing race, and distort it). The only way to adjust the 'protrusion' would
be to use differing width spacers. I've always interpreted this as 'make sure
the spacer is at least a slight bit above the face of the hub.' If it isn't,
you probably have an ill-fitting bearing.

Or am I missing something?

Bob

On 5/31/2011 6:43 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:
> The shop manual says: "When re-assembling [the bearing hub] it is essential
> that the outer face of the bearing spacer should protrude from .001 in.
> (.025 mm.) to .004 in. (.1 mm.) beyond the outer face of the hub and the
> paper washer, when the bearing is pressed into position. This ensures that
> the bearing is gripped between the abutment shoulder in the hub and the
> driving flange of the axle shaft."
>
> I achieved this measurement by using two 0.003 front wheel bearing shims
> equally spaced around the flange of the hub housing with the bearing spacer
> on top of the bearing, and the paper gasket in place. Using a metal bar
> spanning across the bearing spacer, I tapped on the bar to press in the
> bearing and spacer until the bar was seated on the shims on each side.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>

-- *******************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Tue May 31 09:46:43 2011
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 08:46:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vinyl Wrap for Wood on Top
Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626F5@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>

I have wrapped 4 of the 5 pieces of wood for the top, leaving only the
"header" unwrapped.

Is this piece supposed to be wrapped?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 31 09:52:54 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 08:52:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Smoking
In-Reply-To: <007a01cc1f96$bfa0be80$3ee23b80$@verizon.net>
References: <007a01cc1f96$bfa0be80$3ee23b80$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <BC86D21D-65BD-48D3-B7FE-5C67FF5EFEBE@sbcglobal.net>

Yes John we have some used ones avaialble




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 31, 2011, at 6:29 AM, John Sims wrote:

> I am changing the subject to fit the last post and to ask a  
> question. My
> eagle eyes just noticed after almost 20 years that I do not have  
> the insert
> "basket" for the ash tray. So much for being a non-smoker. Any  
> ideas where I
> can get one?? BCS??
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 9:10 AM
> To: Mr. Bill
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave??
>
> I never met Donald Healey, but I'm pretty sure in a magazine
> advertisement for Scotch Whiskey in the mid to late 1950's he was  
> smoking/
> holding a cigarette. Maybe someone else can confirm?
> And yes, most of us who met Geoff remember him smoking a pipe.
> Margot Healey actually gave me one of Geoff's pipes a few years  
> after Geoff
> died.
> Geoff was a great guy. And it was a very personal item to remember  
> him by.
> It even has a finger print smudged in Austin Healey engine enamel  
> on it.
> I was really touched.
> Best.
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 31 10:03:57 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 09:03:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vinyl Wrap for Wood on Top
In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626F5@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED626F5@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <26ADA87B-4DFE-4B17-B966-2988977E3725@sbcglobal.net>

Yes in the same off white material as the other pieces




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 31, 2011, at 8:46 AM, Jonas Payne wrote:

> I have wrapped 4 of the 5 pieces of wood for the top, leaving only the
> "header" unwrapped.
>
> Is this piece supposed to be wrapped?
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From barrie at look.ca  Tue May 31 10:31:29 2011
From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 12:31:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] I have to go
Message-ID: <E1QRRsW-0004ba-Cg@beta.look.ca>

Sorry chaps but I have to sign off from the Healey list.  My Healey 
went many years ago so I cannot contribute much.  It now belongs to 
prof at Princeton Univ.

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 31 16:57:04 2011
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 15:57:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] I have to go
In-Reply-To: <E1QRRsW-0004ba-Cg@beta.look.ca>
Message-ID: <217022.9631.qm@web180103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

See you amongst the MGs.       ML


--- On Tue, 5/31/11, Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca> wrote:


From: Barrie Robinson <barrie at look.ca>
Subject: [Healeys] I have to go
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, May 31, 2011, 12:31 PM


Sorry chaps but I have to sign off from the Healey list.  My Healey went many
years ago so I cannot contribute much.  It now belongs to prof at Princeton
Univ.

Regards

Barrie
barrie at look.ca
705-721-9060 _______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue May 31 19:11:23 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 18:11:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 dash top
Message-ID: <BANLkTin+F36hcUai+3vWTKZGvjsx5wi89A@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all ,
Been moving along on my car of late. Hands and body are cooperating.
I recovered my dash, and am about to work on my top piece.
Would someone please either send a link of photos or photos to me off list
of the top piece in situ? Also the inside of the a BT7's doors. Trying to
figure out where the vinyl goes under the door panels.
Thanks,

-- 
Ira Erbs
IT CONSULTANT
Portland, OR

 We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 31 19:50:30 2011
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 18:50:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 dash top
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTin+F36hcUai+3vWTKZGvjsx5wi89A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTin+F36hcUai+3vWTKZGvjsx5wi89A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DE9EC315-012F-44BD-9C34-EE8EB582DCC5@sbcglobal.net>

Ira, all these photos are in our restoration photo sets.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com

On May 31, 2011, at 6:11 PM, I Erbs wrote:

> Hello all ,
> Been moving along on my car of late. Hands and body are cooperating.
> I recovered my dash, and am about to work on my top piece.
> Would someone please either send a link of photos or photos to me off list
> of the top piece in situ? Also the inside of the a BT7's doors. Trying to
> figure out where the vinyl goes under the door panels.
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> IT CONSULTANT
> Portland, OR
>
> We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> thinking we used when we created them.
>                                           -Albert Einstein
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue May 31 20:06:18 2011
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 19:06:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] bearing
Message-ID: <COL121-W491A258AC72677F140C290A47D0@phx.gbl>

I got her all buttoned up this afternoon. So far, all looks good with no leaks
yet. Getting things ready for our trip to Vancouver the end of June and this
was one of those things I've been wanting to do. Thanks for all the great
help.
Rich Kahn

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Tue May 31 21:07:07 2011
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 20:07:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2011
Message-ID: <00bc01cc2008$fdc2c8d0$f9485a70$@ca>

Hey..wondering if anybody is going to the Rendezvous in Vancouver, WA in
late June?

 

Also, the Event Schedule indicates an event called "Healey Bowling".   Any
idea what that is?

 

Thanks

Paul

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue May 31 22:11:38 2011
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 21:11:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2011
In-Reply-To: <00bc01cc2008$fdc2c8d0$f9485a70$@ca>
References: <00bc01cc2008$fdc2c8d0$f9485a70$@ca>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=1Yp2tf_bWkNN5uY8mtoY6ckJvqw@mail.gmail.com>

Im going, working hard to get the Beast there under its own power.
Fortuately it is a 15 mile drive/tow to the event from my house;)

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because
my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write

On May 31, 2011 8:14 PM, "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hey..wondering if anybody is going to the Rendezvous in Vancouver, WA in
> late June?
>
>
>
> Also, the Event Schedule indicates an event called "Healey Bowling". Any
> idea what that is?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Tue May 31 23:02:14 2011
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 07:02:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 dash top
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTin+F36hcUai+3vWTKZGvjsx5wi89A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTin+F36hcUai+3vWTKZGvjsx5wi89A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <71C80997-4E74-43A5-B51A-E011D35E1E25@bornet.net>

Here you can see what you4ve asked for:

http://www.concourshealeys.com/work-in-progress/


Magnus Karlsson


www.concourshealeys.com