[Healeys] Dual Circuit Braking system

Peter & Veronica greylinn at ozemail.com.au
Thu Jun 30 03:25:42 MDT 2011


Gbday Gergo

I had to put in dual circuit brakes in order to have the car complianced with
the bigger engine. The 240Z master cylinder is 7/8b bore and seemed right
for the disc front/drum rear set-up (booster on discs only) The car had to
undergo quite rigorous brake testing in order to gain compliance for
registration, including braking hard to a standstill from 100kmh. It passed
with flying colours, as did my bengineeringb of the master cylinder
mount.

Regards

Peter

From: Austin Healey
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 4:26 PM
To: Peter & Veronica
Cc: Dave Porter ; Robert Bender ; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Circuit Braking system

Please dont tke me wrong. I dont want to seem negative. Just take my ideas as
"thoughts".

Playing with the brakes is not realy something that can be taken easy.
Designing a full system needs to deal with many aspects (sizing of the
cylinders, balance, fluid type, brake pipe lenght, pressure control etc). If I
am asked, I would leave this task for thoose who have experience and education
like Denis Welch. OR the factory itself. In my opinion any car which is used
as intended would be safe enough with production brakes. Only thing is that
they need to be in A1 condition.

Again sorry if I am negative.

Gergo


2011/6/30 Peter & Veronica <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>

  I should have added that I also use a booster on the front only

  Peter

  -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter
  Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 12:26 PM
  To: 'Peter & Veronica' ; 'Robert Bender' ; healeys at autox.team.net
  Subject: RE: [Healeys] Dual Circuit Braking system


  I've used similar unit with a booster on Healey's and Jag's.......
  Easy to find units and replacement parts. Sorry no pixs available though.
  dave

  frogeye at porterscustom.com

  Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
  Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
  505-352-1378
  1954 BN2  1959 AN5
  Porter Custom Bicycles

  cars:
  www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
  gallery:
  http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

  GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


  -----Original Message-----
  From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
  On Behalf Of Peter & Veronica
  Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 7:58 PM
  To: Robert Bender; healeys at autox.team.net
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Circuit Braking system

  G'day Robert

  I've used a Datsun 240Z master cylinder on my V6 BN1. It's mounted in the
  original position on the frame rail. I do have discs on the front but the
  balance seems fine (car's been on the road for 18 months) Only issue was
  making a bracket to mount the unit to the original bolt holes. I can send
  some photos if you're interested.

  Cheers

  Peter Linn
  Brisbane Oz
  BN1 Ward Spl coupe
  BN1 Holden V6

  PS I had a similar experience with my Series 3 Landrover when a brake
lining

  parted company with the shoe!

  -----Original Message----- From: Robert Bender
  Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 9:38 AM
  To: healeys at autox.team.net
  Subject: [Healeys] Dual Circuit Braking system

  Ever since my friend lost a wheel cylinder under heavy braking in traffic
  with his vintage Land Rover and had to do some tricky unplanned off road
  driving to avoid playing

  Bigfoot on the cars ahead, I've been pondering the idea of a dual circuit
  braking system in my BN2.  I searched the archives and cannot find much of
  anything for information

  on this project.  I realize the Denis Welch and Cape International sell
  units, but they are pretty dear.  I was wondering if anyone else had looked
  into a good candidate

  master cylinder from a local parts house like NAPA or AutoZone?  How does
  one determine what size master cylinder bore to look for?  There must be
  some calculation

  between the Master cylinder and the wheel cylinder bore sizes.  I plan to
  use the original drum brakes (at least for now), I want to keep the MC
  location on the frame rail, and

  I don't want to use a booster.  Has anyone given this any thought?

  Oh, by the way, the wheel cylinder that failed on the Rover was nearly new.
  It was not a Girling but rather one of the newer knock-offs.

  TIA for any input.
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