From twillig at ruda.de Mon Aug 1 00:19:26 2011 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 08:19:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M: Cold air box In-Reply-To: <7B270D49EE634EC483CEA959721B6095@Notebook> References: <1312145869.16558.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <7B270D49EE634EC483CEA959721B6095@Notebook> Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E149D@dw01.ruda.local> Hi Peter, according to Geoff Healey they made a limited run of steel cold air boxes. These boxes came without the 100M plaque. I have one on my car. Regards Thomas Willig -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Peter & Veronica [mailto:greylinn at ozemail.com.au] Gesendet: Sonntag, 31. Juli 2011 23:21 An: HealeyRick; healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M Since when were cold air boxes made of steel (or when did aluminium start to rust?) Also no sign of "X" in front of radiator being bent for camshaft insertion Peter Linn Brisbane Oz -----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 6:57 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M This looks legit to me: http://tinyurl.com/3k6r4pg What do the experts think? Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From twillig at ruda.de Mon Aug 1 02:02:55 2011 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 10:02:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A1@dw01.ruda.local> Hello, can someone enlighten me were I can get a choke abutment bracket for the 100M? I am talking about the small steel strip of flat steel that goes over the entire opening between the two H6 carbs and is held there by the two bolts for the cold air box. The dimensions of this bracket differ from the one used for the standard h4 setup. Regards Thomas Willig From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 1 06:28:23 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 08:28:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A1@dw01.ruda.local> References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A1@dw01.ruda.local> Message-ID: <004201cc5046$81e4a580$85adf080$@net> Thomas, I was under the impression it is the same bracket but the end mounting holes are opened up a bit to fit the H6 setup. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Willig Sent: 2011-08-01 4:03 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Hello, can someone enlighten me were I can get a choke abutment bracket for the 100M? I am talking about the small steel strip of flat steel that goes over the entire opening between the two H6 carbs and is held there by the two bolts for the cold air box. The dimensions of this bracket differ from the one used for the standard h4 setup. Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ From twillig at ruda.de Mon Aug 1 06:49:14 2011 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:49:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket In-Reply-To: <004201cc5046$81e4a580$85adf080$@net> References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A1@dw01.ruda.local> <004201cc5046$81e4a580$85adf080$@net> Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A7@dw01.ruda.local> Rich, no that's not the case (as far as I see it-enlightenment very welcome). The angle of the bracket has to be changed as well. Doing this, you have to cut the bracket were the abutment pin (the pin that fixes the outer control cable to the bracket) goes through the bracket. Thomas -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 14:28 An: Thomas Willig Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Thomas, I was under the impression it is the same bracket but the end mounting holes are opened up a bit to fit the H6 setup. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Willig Sent: 2011-08-01 4:03 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Hello, can someone enlighten me were I can get a choke abutment bracket for the 100M? I am talking about the small steel strip of flat steel that goes over the entire opening between the two H6 carbs and is held there by the two bolts for the cold air box. The dimensions of this bracket differ from the one used for the standard h4 setup. Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 07:59:59 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:59:59 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A7@dw01.ruda.local> References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A1@dw01.ruda.local> <004201cc5046$81e4a580$85adf080$@net> <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A7@dw01.ruda.local> Message-ID: Thomas - Sounds too complicated! I just opened up the holes a bit like Rich said, that was all I needed. Fit right up. I eventually switched back again (I like the plain jane cars).. Alan On 8/1/11, Thomas Willig wrote: > Rich, > > no that's not the case (as far as I see it-enlightenment very welcome). The > angle of the bracket has to be changed as well. Doing this, you have to cut > the bracket were the abutment pin (the pin that fixes the outer control > cable > to the bracket) goes through the bracket. > > > Thomas > > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] > Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 14:28 > An: Thomas Willig > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket > > Thomas, > > I was under the impression it is the same bracket but the end mounting holes > are opened up a bit to fit the H6 setup. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Thomas Willig > Sent: 2011-08-01 4:03 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket > > Hello, > > > > can someone enlighten me were I can get a choke abutment bracket for the > 100M? I am talking about the small steel strip of flat steel that goes > over the entire opening between the two H6 carbs and is held there by > the two bolts for the cold air box. The dimensions of this bracket > differ from the one used for the standard h4 setup. > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Aug 1 07:58:45 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:58:45 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A7@dw01.ruda.local> References: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A1@dw01.ruda.local> <004201cc5046$81e4a580$85adf080$@net> <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A7@dw01.ruda.local> Message-ID: Thomas I think that I agree with Rich on this. It is not easy to make precise measurement but I make the distance between the appropriate holes on a pair of H4s as 6" +- 1/32". The same measurement on a pair of H6s is 5 13/16" +- 1/32" so the difference is about 3/16" or a maximum of 1/4". Filing 1/8" out of each end with a round file is straight forward. I have done this a few times and it is easy. regards >Rich, > >no that's not the case (as far as I see it-enlightenment very welcome). The >angle of the bracket has to be changed as well. Doing this, you have to cut >the bracket were the abutment pin (the pin that fixes the outer control cable >to the bracket) goes through the bracket. > > >Thomas > > >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- >Von: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] >Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 14:28 >An: Thomas Willig >Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket > >Thomas, > >I was under the impression it is the same bracket but the end mounting holes >are opened up a bit to fit the H6 setup. > >Rich > >-----Original Message----- >From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >On Behalf Of Thomas Willig >Sent: 2011-08-01 4:03 >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket > >Hello, > > > >can someone enlighten me were I can get a choke abutment bracket for the >100M? I am talking about the small steel strip of flat steel that goes >over the entire opening between the two H6 carbs and is held there by >the two bolts for the cold air box. The dimensions of this bracket >differ from the one used for the standard h4 setup. >Regards > > >Thomas Willig >_______________________________________________ >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk -- John Harper From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 08:37:14 2011 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 16:37:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Message-ID: Thomas, I believe Rich is correct. I researched the M setup a bit when installing it on my car, and I fitted the same bracket enlarging the holes. Also, there was no extra bracket in LeMans kit, AFAIK. Tadek Message: 11 Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:49:14 +0200 From: "Thomas Willig" To: "Rich Chrysler" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A7 at dw01.ruda.local> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Rich, no that's not the case (as far as I see it-enlightenment very welcome). The angle of the bracket has to be changed as well. Doing this, you have to cut the bracket were the abutment pin (the pin that fixes the outer control cable to the bracket) goes through the bracket. Thomas From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon Aug 1 08:50:26 2011 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 16:50:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Message-ID: Its like Rich and Alan said, That`s the way to do and that was the way and (as far as I know ) it was done at Warwick. As there was no other bracket in the LeMans kit and what they have done at the Cape was very pragmatic to say, they just used the old bracket and a file to enlarge the holes. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Alan Seigrist Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 16:00 An: Thomas Willig; Rich Chrysler; healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Thomas - Sounds too complicated! I just opened up the holes a bit like Rich said, that was all I needed. Fit right up. I eventually switched back again (I like the plain jane cars).. Alan On 8/1/11, Thomas Willig wrote: > Rich, > > no that's not the case (as far as I see it-enlightenment very > welcome). The angle of the bracket has to be changed as well. Doing > this, you have to cut the bracket were the abutment pin (the pin that > fixes the outer control cable to the bracket) goes through the > bracket. > > > Thomas > > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] > Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 14:28 > An: Thomas Willig > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket > > Thomas, > > I was under the impression it is the same bracket but the end mounting > holes are opened up a bit to fit the H6 setup. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Thomas Willig > Sent: 2011-08-01 4:03 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket > > Hello, > > > > can someone enlighten me were I can get a choke abutment bracket for > the 100M? I am talking about the small steel strip of flat steel that > goes over the entire opening between the two H6 carbs and is held > there by the two bolts for the cold air box. The dimensions of this > bracket differ from the one used for the standard h4 setup. > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef.eckert at t-systems.com From rgdavey at yahoo.com Mon Aug 1 09:20:46 2011 From: rgdavey at yahoo.com (Robert Davey) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 08:20:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Restoration Guide prices Message-ID: <4C5D8105-A968-4644-BF2B-90FDDF581DDA@yahoo.com> I have noticed in previous threads that the Anderson and Moment guides have been offered at 'crazy' prices lately. There is one now for sale on eBay (260826043006) that is no reserve. It's my book and I hope this will help someone who wants one. From pennell at cox.net Mon Aug 1 09:23:42 2011 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:23:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <002201cc4fcc$b2ae1ea0$180a5be0$@net> Message-ID: <20110801112342.54FDU.1252282.imail@eastrmwml41> Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a car? Keith ---- Rich Chrysler wrote: > Yes, absolutely. This is not the first time this car has been on ebay. Last > time was back in May of this year according to my Hundred Registry records. > > Somebody's going to end up with a great project. I just hope they don't feel > they have to go changing things. Restore, of course, but altering colours or > specifications...I hope not. However, note that the lower black was an add > on years ago and was not factory on that car. Note also being an early BN2 > there is no swage line in the rear wings yet. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of HealeyRick > Sent: 2011-07-31 4:58 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M > > This looks legit to me: http://tinyurl.com/3k6r4pg What do the experts > think? > > Rick > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 1 09:44:57 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 15:44:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <20110801112342.54FDU.1252282.imail@eastrmwml41> Message-ID: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Apparently not. It's over $33K now. -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: pennell at cox.net To: "Rich Chrysler" , "HealeyRick" , healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 8:23:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a car? Keith ---- Rich Chrysler wrote: > Yes, absolutely. This is not the first time this car has been on ebay. Last > time was back in May of this year according to my Hundred Registry records. > > Somebody's going to end up with a great project. I just hope they don't feel > they have to go changing things. Restore, of course, but altering colours or > specifications...I hope not. However, note that the lower black was an add > on years ago and was not factory on that car. Note also being an early BN2 > there is no swage line in the rear wings yet. > > Rich From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Aug 1 09:46:46 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 08:46:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Lucas_Charging_System=3FI_recently_had_my_C45?= =?utf-8?q?-P5_Generator_rebuilt=2E__After_installing_it_with_a_Part_No=2E?= =?utf-8?q?_37206_RB_108_2__12V=2E_NOS_Lucas_control_box_I_cleaned_the_poi?= =?utf-8?q?nts_and_adjusted_the_point_setting_per_instructions_from_Lucas_?= =?utf-8?q?Technical__Correspondence_course_session_5=2E__I_then_conducted?= =?utf-8?q?__the_test_as_instructed_by_the_Technical_Correspondence_course?= =?utf-8?q?_session_5=2E_I_installed_a_Volt_Gage_to_confirm_that_the_idiot?= =?utf-8?q?_light_is_accurately_informing_me_of_a_valid_charging_system=2E?= =?utf-8?q?__At_idle_speed_the_system_is_charging_at_13=2E6_volts=2E__At_h?= =?utf-8?q?ighway_speed_with_RPM=E2=80=99s_around_2500_to_3000_RPM_the_sys?= 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=?utf-8?q?he_battery_with_the_settings_I_have_set_it_to=3F__Will_charging?= =?utf-8?q?_values_at_15=2E6_to_16_Volts_at_highway_speeds_will_the_Batter?= =?utf-8?q?y_overcharge_and_boil_out_the_fluids=2E__I_haven=E2=80=99t_foun?= =?utf-8?q?d_any_answers_to_these_questions_on_the_internet_so_I_thought_I?= =?utf-8?q?_would_ask_the_experts=2E__My_questions_are_prompted_by_an_expe?= =?utf-8?q?rience_last_year=2E__I_had_a_generator_failure_after_leaving_En?= =?utf-8?q?counter=2E__I_had_a_shop_in_Elkton_Maryland_where_my_daughter_l?= =?utf-8?q?ives_install_a_Generator_and_Control_Box_to_the_tune_of_=24675_?= =?utf-8?q?dollars=2E__After_leaving_my_daughters_house_in_Elkton_I_had_a_?= =?utf-8?q?complete_electrical_failure_about_300_miles_out_and_365_miles_f?= =?utf-8?q?rom_my_home=2E__I_had_the_car_flat_bedded_home_by_AAA=2E__That_?= =?utf-8?q?was_an_additional_=24927_to_add_to_the_repairs_cost=2E__The_Gen?= =?utf-8?q?erator_rebuilder_that_I_use_said_that_the_armature_had_overheat?= =?utf-8?q?ed_and_thrown_out_all_the_solder=2E__He_felt_the_cause_was_an_i?= =?utf-8?q?mproperly_adjusted_Control_Box=2E__I_just_want_to_make_sure_tha?= =?utf-8?q?t_my_system_is_working_properly_and_I=E2=80=99m_not_going_to_de?= =?utf-8?q?stroy_another_generator=2E__Any_input_will_be_appreciated=2E_Ro?= =?utf-8?q?n_Mitchell=2C_Goodrich_Michigan___1962_MkII_BN7I_recently_had_m?= =?utf-8?q?y_C45-P5_Generator_rebuilt=2E__After_installing_it_with_a_Part_?= =?utf-8?q?No=2E_37206_RB_108_2__12V=2E_NOS_Lucas_control_box_I_cleaned_th?= =?utf-8?q?e_points_and_adjusted_the_point_setting_per_instructions_from_L?= =?utf-8?q?ucas_Technical__Correspondence_course_session_5=2E__I_then_cond?= =?utf-8?q?ucted__the_test_as_instructed_by_the_Technical_Correspondence_c?= =?utf-8?q?ourse_session_5=2E_I_installed_a_Volt_Gage_to_confirm_that_the_?= =?utf-8?q?idiot_light_is_accurately_informing_me_of_a_valid_charging_syst?= =?utf-8?q?em=2E__At_idle_speed_the_system_is_charging_at_13=2E6_volts=2E_?= =?utf-8?q?_At_highway_speed_with_RPM=E2=80=99s_around_2500_to_3000_RPM_th?= =?utf-8?q?e_system_is_charging_at_15=2E6_to_16_volts=2E__This_conforms_to?= =?utf-8?q?_the_test_I_conducted_of_the_system=2E_When_I_turn_the_lights_o?= =?utf-8?q?n_I=E2=80=99m_only_charging_around_13=2E5_volts_at_speed_or_idl?= =?utf-8?q?e=2E__My_question_is_should_the_charging_system_be_that_dramati?= =?utf-8?q?cally_different_with_the_lights_on=3F__Will_my_Generator?= =?utf-8?q?=E2=80=99s_armature_overheat_from_constantly_trying_to_charge_t?= =?utf-8?q?he_battery_with_the_settings_I_have_set_it_to=3F__Will_charging?= =?utf-8?q?_values_at_15=2E6_to_16_Volts_at_highway_speeds_will_the_Batter?= =?utf-8?q?y_overcharge_and_boil_out_the_fluids=2E__I_haven=E2=80=99t_foun?= =?utf-8?q?d_any_answers_to_these_questions_on_the_internet_so_I_thought_I?= =?utf-8?q?_would_ask_the_experts=2E__My_questions_are_prompted_by_an_expe?= =?utf-8?q?rience_last_year=2E__I_had_a_generator_failure_after_leaving_En?= =?utf-8?q?counter=2E__I_had_a_shop_in_Elkton_Maryland_where_my_daughter_l?= =?utf-8?q?ives_install_a_Generator_and_Control_Box_to_the_tune_of_=24675_?= =?utf-8?q?dollars=2E__After_leaving_my_daughters_house_in_Elkton_I_had_a_?= =?utf-8?q?complete_electrical_failure_about_300_miles_out_and_365_miles_f?= =?utf-8?q?rom_my_home=2E__I_had_the_car_flat_bedded_home_by_AAA=2E__That_?= =?utf-8?q?was_an_additional_=24927_to_add_to_the_repairs_cost=2E__The_Gen?= =?utf-8?q?erator_rebuilder_that_I_use_said_that_the_armature_had_overheat?= =?utf-8?q?ed_and_thrown_out_all_the_solder=2E__He_felt_the_cause_was_an_i?= =?utf-8?q?mproperly_adjusted_Control_Box=2E__I_just_want_to_make_sure_tha?= =?utf-8?q?t_my_system_is_working_properly_and_I=E2=80=99m_not_going_to_de?= =?utf-8?q?stroy_another_generator=2E__Any_input_will_be_appreciated=2E_Ro?= =?utf-8?q?n_Mitchell=2C_Goodrich_Michigan___1962_MkII_BN7?= Message-ID: <1312213606.31890.YahooMailNeo@web161012.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> B Hi, I'm in need of some expert advise on the proper operation of a Lucas Charging System.B Here is my concern. I recently had my C45-P5 Generator rebuilt.B After installing it with a Part No. 37206 RB 108 2 B 12V. NOS Lucas control box I cleaned the points and adjusted the point settings per instructions from Lucas Technical Correspondence course session 5. B I then conducted B the test as instructed by the Technical Correspondence course session 5. I installed a Volt Gage to confirm that the idiot light is accurately informing me of a valid charging system. At idle speed the system is charging at 13.6 volts.B At highway speed with RPMbs around 2500 to 3000 RPM the system is charging at 15.6 to 16 volts.B This conforms to the stationary tests I've conducted of the system. When I turn the lights on Ibm only charging around 13.5 volts at speed or idle. B My questions are should the charging system be that dramatically different with the lights on?B Will my Generatorbs armature overheat from constantly trying to charge the battery with the settings I have set it to?B Will charging values at 15.6 to 16 Volts at highway speeds overcharge the Battery and boil out the fluids. B I havenbt found any answers to these questions on the internet so I thought I would ask the experts. B My questions are prompted by an incident last year whenB I experienced a generator failure after leaving Encounter 2010.B I had a shop in Elkton Maryland where my daughter lives install a Generator and Control Box to the tune of $675 dollars.B After leaving my daughters house in Elkton I had a complete electrical failure about 300 miles out and 365 miles from my home.B I had the car flat bedded home by AAA.B That was an additional $927 to add to the repairs cost.B The Generator re-builder that I use said that the armature had overheated and thrown out all the solder.B He felt the cause was an improperly adjusted Control Box.B I just want to make sure that my system is working properly and Ibm not going to destroy another generator. FOOTNOTE:B If you're ever in Elkton, MD and need service on your classic or domestic car, steer clear of Chris's Domestic & Foreign Car Service.B He wouldn't stand behind any of his complete service and parts warranty. B Any input will be appreciated. Ron Mitchell, Goodrich Michigan B 1962 MkII BN7 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 1 09:47:12 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:47:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <20110801112342.54FDU.1252282.imail@eastrmwml41> References: <002201cc4fcc$b2ae1ea0$180a5be0$@net> <20110801112342.54FDU.1252282.imail@eastrmwml41> Message-ID: <005c01cc5062$47dec2a0$d79c47e0$@net> Keith, et al, Frankly, in this day and age of ridiculous pricing for factory M's I'd say the difference between the stock BN2 and this M hasn't quite been reached. This could easily end up going for over 60K, about 20K for the car itself and the rest 'cause it's a factory M. Then somebody has to start the long road of restoration. That's why these can easily get to $125 or more for a correctly, accurately done factory M. Please, somebody buy it and let me restore it for you! Rich -----Original Message----- From: pennell at cox.net [mailto:pennell at cox.net] Sent: 2011-08-01 11:24 To: Rich Chrysler; 'HealeyRick'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a car? Keith ---- Rich Chrysler wrote: > Yes, absolutely. This is not the first time this car has been on ebay. Last > time was back in May of this year according to my Hundred Registry records. > > Somebody's going to end up with a great project. I just hope they don't feel > they have to go changing things. Restore, of course, but altering colours or > specifications...I hope not. However, note that the lower black was an add > on years ago and was not factory on that car. Note also being an early BN2 > there is no swage line in the rear wings yet. > > Rich From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 1 09:54:55 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:54:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M Message-ID: <3171b.64c42f3d.3b68264f@aol.com> Depends ... with some "real" M's going for over $170K at auction, you could put $100K in the restoration and still sell it for a tidy profit. And the fact that it is a numbers matching car would only add to the value. Just my 2 cents. Steven Kingsbury In a message dated 8/1/2011 8:52:06 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: Apparently not. It's over $33K now. -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: pennell at cox.net To: "Rich Chrysler" , "HealeyRick" , healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 8:23:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a car? Keith ---- Rich Chrysler wrote: > Yes, absolutely. This is not the first time this car has been on ebay. Last > time was back in May of this year according to my Hundred Registry records. > > Somebody's going to end up with a great project. I just hope they don't feel > they have to go changing things. Restore, of course, but altering colours or > specifications...I hope not. However, note that the lower black was an add > on years ago and was not factory on that car. Note also being an early BN2 > there is no swage line in the rear wings yet. > > Rich _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 09:56:20 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 08:56:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <20110801112342.54FDU.1252282.imail@eastrmwml41> References: <002201cc4fcc$b2ae1ea0$180a5be0$@net> <20110801112342.54FDU.1252282.imail@eastrmwml41> Message-ID: Keith, Basket case original Factory 100Ms have been selling for $50K for some time now. $25k is a bargain! Curt On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 8:23 AM, wrote: > Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a car? > > Keith > > ---- Rich Chrysler wrote: > > Yes, absolutely. This is not the first time this car has been on ebay. > Last > > time was back in May of this year according to my Hundred Registry > records. > > > > Somebody's going to end up with a great project. I just hope they don't > feel > > they have to go changing things. Restore, of course, but altering colours > or > > specifications...I hope not. However, note that the lower black was an > add > > on years ago and was not factory on that car. Note also being an early > BN2 > > there is no swage line in the rear wings yet. > > > > Rich > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of HealeyRick > > Sent: 2011-07-31 4:58 > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M > > > > This looks legit to me: http://tinyurl.com/3k6r4pg What do the experts > > think? > > > > Rick > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 10:06:46 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 02:06:46 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> ..... And the reserve has not yet been met!!!! Sent from my iPhone On 02/08/2011, at 1:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Apparently not. It's over $33K now. > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: pennell at cox.net > To: "Rich Chrysler" , "HealeyRick" >, healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 8:23:42 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M > > Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a > car? > > Keith > > ---- Rich Chrysler wrote: >> Yes, absolutely. This is not the first time this car has been on >> ebay. Last >> time was back in May of this year according to my Hundred Registry >> records. >> >> Somebody's going to end up with a great project. I just hope they >> don't feel >> they have to go changing things. Restore, of course, but altering >> colours or >> specifications...I hope not. However, note that the lower black was >> an add >> on years ago and was not factory on that car. Note also being an >> early BN2 >> there is no swage line in the rear wings yet. >> >> Rich > _____________________________ From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 10:14:22 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:14:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing knobs on switches Message-ID: My car has a non-standard light switch knob and a very old wiper knob with no markings. I am replacing them with new knobs that i have purchased. Are these knobs just glued in place, and if so do I just 'cut' the old ones off? Derek From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 1 10:28:05 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 12:28:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing knobs on switches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cc5067$fdf42030$f9dc6090$@net> Derek, Look on the underside of the knob shank. There should be a little hole at 6 o'clock. A spring loaded pin needs to be pushed in to allow the knob to be pulled straight off. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: 2011-08-01 12:14 To: Forum Subject: [Healeys] Replacing knobs on switches My car has a non-standard light switch knob and a very old wiper knob with no markings. I am replacing them with new knobs that i have purchased. Are these knobs just glued in place, and if so do I just 'cut' the old ones off? Derek _______________________________________________ From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 11:05:23 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 19:05:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Replacing knobs on switches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Derek Job Date: Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 6:55 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing knobs on switches To: Jean Caron Thanks guys, Ive noticed the holes so hopefully they will come off as described. Im going out to visit the car tomorrow so I'll give it a try Derek On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 6:32 PM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Derek: > Normally there is a small round hole at the bottom of the knob. Take a > small nail, insert it in that small hole, prees on it and it will free the > knob, you can then pull it out. > > Jean Caron > > > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:14:22 +0200 > > From: derek.c.job at gmail.com > > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Subject: [Healeys] Replacing knobs on switches > > > > My car has a non-standard light switch knob and a very old wiper knob > with > > no markings. I am replacing them with new knobs that i have purchased. > > > > Are these knobs just glued in place, and if so do I just 'cut' the old > ones > > off? > > > > Derek > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 11:48:42 2011 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 13:48:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: I'm guessing the reserve is $60K +. Others? :-) I'm also betting there are a whole lot more rust issues than stated. Randy On Aug 1, 2011, at 12:06 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > ..... And the reserve has not yet been met!!!! > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 02/08/2011, at 1:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Apparently not. It's over $33K now. >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: pennell at cox.net >> To: "Rich Chrysler" , "HealeyRick" , healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 8:23:42 AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M >> >> Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a car? >> >> Keith From tappiokie at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 12:02:31 2011 From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:02:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay Message-ID: I just talked to the owner/seller in Georgia. His reserve is $75K firm. Jim From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Mon Aug 1 12:05:52 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:05:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1312221952.18182.YahooMailNeo@web120526.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Reserve around 50 K and it will go for 65K and the car is rust free.... The will not charge for the rust therefore is rust free.... Jose Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia >________________________________ >From: Randy Hicks >To: Chris Dimmock >Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" >Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 12:48 PM >Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M > >I'm guessing the reserve is $60K +. Others? :-) > >I'm also betting there are a whole lot more rust issues than stated. > >Randy > > >On Aug 1, 2011, at 12:06 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > >> ..... And the reserve has not yet been met!!!! >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 02/08/2011, at 1:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >>> Apparently not. It's over $33K now. >>> >>> -------------------------------- >>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: pennell at cox.net >>> To: "Rich Chrysler" , "HealeyRick" >, healeys at autox.team.net >>> Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 8:23:42 AM >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M >>> >>> Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a car? >>> >>> Keith >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 12:09:46 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 20:09:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Charging System?I recently had my C45-P5 Generator rebuilt. After installing it with a Part No. 37206 RB 108 2 12V. NOS Lucas control box I cleaned the points and adjusted the point setting per instructions from Lucas Technical Co Message-ID: Hi Ron, I just did my setup yesterday. Here are my experiences. Systems fitted with dynamos are rarely charging 13.6 at idle (esp. if idling speed of the engine is as low as on a Healey) . They usualy only "come in" to turn of the ign. light, but not much charge at all. Normaly I get the right 14.2-14.4 charge at 1000-1200rpm. Anything above 15V should be considered faulty. Overcharging will boil the battery and may even kill some units (like bulbs, electric rev counters etc). Voltage drop should be checked with the engine reved a bit (let say 2K). The drop should not be significant there. Gergo 2011/8/1 Ron Mitchell > B Hi, > > I'm in need of some expert advise on the proper operation of a Lucas > Charging System.B Here is my concern. > > I recently had my C45-P5 Generator > rebuilt.B After installing it with a Part No. 37206 RB > 108 2 B 12V. NOS Lucas > control box I > cleaned the points and adjusted the point settings per > instructions from Lucas > Technical Correspondence course session > 5. > B > I then > conducted B the test as instructed by the Technical > Correspondence course > session 5. > I installed a Volt Gage to confirm that the idiot light > is > accurately informing me of a valid charging system. > > At idle speed the system > is charging at 13.6 volts.B At highway speed with RPMb s around 2500 to > 3000 > RPM the system is charging at 15.6 to 16 volts.B This conforms to the > stationary tests I've conducted of the > system. > When I turn the lights on Ib m > only charging around 13.5 > volts at speed or idle. > B > My questions are should > the charging system be that > dramatically different with the lights on?B > Will my Generatorb s armature overheat from constantly trying to charge > the > battery with the settings I have set it to?B > > Will charging values at 15.6 > to 16 Volts at highway speeds overcharge the > Battery and boil out the fluids. > B > I havenb t found any answers to these questions on the > internet so I > thought I would ask the experts. > B > My questions are prompted by an incident > last year whenB I experienced a generator failure after leaving Encounter > 2010.B I had a shop in Elkton Maryland where my > daughter lives install a > Generator and Control Box to the tune of $675 > dollars.B After leaving my > daughters house > in Elkton I had a complete electrical failure about 300 miles > out and 365 miles > from my home.B I had the car flat bedded > home by AAA.B > That was an additional $927 > to add to the repairs cost.B The Generator > re-builder that I use said that the armature had overheated and thrown out > all > the > solder.B He felt the cause was an > improperly adjusted Control Box.B I > just > want to make sure that my system is working properly and Ib m not going > to > destroy another generator. > > > FOOTNOTE:B If you're ever in Elkton, MD and > need service on your classic or domestic car, steer clear of Chris's > Domestic > & Foreign Car Service.B He wouldn't stand behind any of his complete > service > and parts warranty. > > B > Any input will be appreciated. > Ron Mitchell, Goodrich > Michigan B 1962 MkII BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon Aug 1 12:25:03 2011 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 20:25:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: I can only shake my head about these 100M values/prices. I would be very careful with these cars. They look not as nice as an early 100, are not much faster, they are not lighter, no special racing version, nothing which really gives a real improvement. In 10 years time nobody wants them anymore - just my guess. I can`t believe they are a good investment as there is no specific benefit. A 100S is a completely different car to a 100, but the 100M?? I would call it a BN2 Special Edition. Sorry, but I can only shake my head. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Randy Hicks Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 19:49 An: Chris Dimmock Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M I'm guessing the reserve is $60K +. Others? :-) I'm also betting there are a whole lot more rust issues than stated. Randy On Aug 1, 2011, at 12:06 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > ..... And the reserve has not yet been met!!!! > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 02/08/2011, at 1:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Apparently not. It's over $33K now. >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 12:36:42 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:36:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wonder how much he will lower the reserve when he reposts after it does not sell? On Aug 1, 2011 11:15 AM, "Jim Cox" wrote: > I just talked to the owner/seller in Georgia. His reserve is $75K firm. Jim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 12:53:43 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:53:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: Randy, The will concur with your $60K estimate as well as the rust issues. This car will require a lot of rust repair, but it wont be the first original Factory 100M with this much rust, and in the hands of the right restorer it can be brought back to life. I believe that the car (Factory 100M) restored by late David Koch of Canada had this much rust or more. David used a Kilmartin Chassis because of the rust issues and the results were spectacular. When I examined the car some years ago I was amazed at the quality and originality of the repair. He went on to win a Gold Concours award and then he and wife Janet drove the heck out of the car. Bottom line it just takes time and money but this appears to be a mostly complete and original, matching numbers car, and Carmine Red ones are rare and spectacular when restored properly. I judged both Gordon Brockman's and Kent Lacy's Carmine Red 100Ms Gold in 1999 and 2005 respectively. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 10:48 AM, Randy Hicks wrote: > I'm guessing the reserve is $60K +. Others? :-) > > I'm also betting there are a whole lot more rust issues than stated. > > Randy > > > On Aug 1, 2011, at 12:06 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > > > ..... And the reserve has not yet been met!!!! > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On 02/08/2011, at 1:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > >> Apparently not. It's over $33K now. > >> > >> -------------------------------- > >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: pennell at cox.net > >> To: "Rich Chrysler" , "HealeyRick" > , healeys at autox.team.net > >> Sent: Monday, August 1, 2011 8:23:42 AM > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M > >> > >> Last time I looked the $ was 25k. Isn't that steep even for such a car? > >> > >> Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 13:03:19 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 12:03:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: Josef, I have to disagree. I feel these cars will only go up in value and a matching numbers, Concours Gold example should be worth close to $200K. After all it will take that much to buy and restore one to that level in today's dollars. Just ask any reputable Healey restorer what it would take to bring this currently offered car on eBay back to Concours standards? I remember when people said the same abut the 100S years ago when they were $150K... Now look at the prices, $600K+ That being said, you can essentially get the same car with a BN1 or 2 converted to Le Mans specifications. I didn't say these prices make sense, only what I feel the reality is, and will be in the near future. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 11:25 AM, wrote: > I can only shake my head about these 100M values/prices. I would be very > careful with these cars. They look not as nice as an early 100, are not > much > faster, they are not lighter, no special racing version, nothing which > really > gives a real improvement. In 10 years time nobody wants them anymore - just > my > guess. I can`t believe they are a good investment as there is no specific > benefit. A 100S is a completely different car to a 100, but the 100M?? I > would > call it a BN2 Special Edition. Sorry, but I can only shake my head. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > Im > Auftrag von Randy Hicks > Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 19:49 > An: Chris Dimmock > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M > > I'm guessing the reserve is $60K +. Others? :-) > > I'm also betting there are a whole lot more rust issues than stated. > > Randy > > > On Aug 1, 2011, at 12:06 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > > > ..... And the reserve has not yet been met!!!! > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On 02/08/2011, at 1:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > >> Apparently not. It's over $33K now. > >> > >> -------------------------------- > >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Aug 1 13:05:30 2011 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 19:05:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Given the current economic climate both in North America and Europe, I would venture to say that $75,000 is way, way off base. I personally don't feel that in this condition, they are worth it, but who knows. Jean Caron > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:02:31 -0400 > From: tappiokie at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay > > I just talked to the owner/seller in Georgia. His reserve is $75K firm. Jim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon Aug 1 13:19:04 2011 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:19:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: Curt, In 10 years time most who have any sentimental relation to an Austin-Healey are dead or no more able to drive. So the buyers would be those who have only learned about the car and marque in books, magazines, internet, perhaps from their parents etc. But their feelings are with other cars than Healeys. The prices will drop as people willing to buy a classic sports car to a price of $200K do not go with a 100M, as there are others like Aston Martins, Jaguars, Mercedes, Porsches, Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Maseratis, BMWs, Morgans, TVRs, Lotuss, . when you have a look to the pre war classics. There values are very stable now and low compared. Lots of competition to a 100M. Why not go for one of the Works Sprites. They are a bargain compared to a 100M and a real thing, not a customer`s car. Josef Von: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 21:03 An: Eckert, Josef Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M Josef, I have to disagree. I feel these cars will only go up in value and a matching numbers, Concours Gold example should be worth close to $200K. After all it will take that much to buy and restore one to that level in today's dollars. Just ask any reputable Healey restorer what it would take to bring this currently offered car on eBay back to Concours standards? I remember when people said the same abut the 100S years ago when they were $150K... Now look at the prices, $600K+ That being said, you can essentially get the same car with a BN1 or 2 converted to Le Mans specifications. I didn't say these prices make sense, only what I feel the reality is, and will be in the near future. Cheers, Curt From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 1 13:27:59 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 15:27:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: <001901cc5081$20060350$601209f0$@net> The 100/M helped enhance the sales of an about to be orphan car, the BN2, and it helped to use up the Le Mans kits, but you didn't hear it from me!! Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sent: 2011-08-01 2:25 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M I can only shake my head about these 100M values/prices. I would be very careful with these cars. They look not as nice as an early 100, are not much faster, they are not lighter, no special racing version, nothing which really gives a real improvement. In 10 years time nobody wants them anymore - just my guess. I can`t believe they are a good investment as there is no specific benefit. A 100S is a completely different car to a 100, but the 100M?? I would call it a BN2 Special Edition. Sorry, but I can only shake my head. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Randy Hicks Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 19:49 An: Chris Dimmock Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M I'm guessing the reserve is $60K +. Others? :-) I'm also betting there are a whole lot more rust issues than stated. Randy On Aug 1, 2011, at 12:06 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > ..... And the reserve has not yet been met!!!! > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 02/08/2011, at 1:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Apparently not. It's over $33K now. >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon Aug 1 13:34:24 2011 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:34:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <001901cc5081$20060350$601209f0$@net> References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> <001901cc5081$20060350$601209f0$@net> Message-ID: Rich, That`s why I call it a Special Edition BN2. Car manufacturers still do it that way when a model comes to the end of the production phase and is no more competitive compared to newly designed competitors cars. (It wasn`t me who said that!!) -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 21:28 An: Eckert, Josef; healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M The 100/M helped enhance the sales of an about to be orphan car, the BN2, and it helped to use up the Le Mans kits, but you didn't hear it from me!! Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sent: 2011-08-01 2:25 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M I can only shake my head about these 100M values/prices. I would be very careful with these cars. They look not as nice as an early 100, are not much faster, they are not lighter, no special racing version, nothing which really gives a real improvement. In 10 years time nobody wants them anymore - just my guess. I can`t believe they are a good investment as there is no specific benefit. A 100S is a completely different car to a 100, but the 100M?? I would call it a BN2 Special Edition. Sorry, but I can only shake my head. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 14:07:24 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 13:07:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jean & All, I have to agree. $75K in this condition is just too much, given the rust repair alone. I do not think it will sell at this price and will stick with my $50K to $60K estimate, and I even think that this is way too much in the current environment. Curt On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 12:05 PM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Given the current economic climate both in North America and Europe, I > would > venture to say that $75,000 is way, way off base. I personally don't feel > that > in this condition, they are worth it, but who knows. > > Jean Caron > > > > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:02:31 -0400 > > From: tappiokie at gmail.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay > > > > I just talked to the owner/seller in Georgia. His reserve is $75K firm. > Jim > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > tmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 14:25:38 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 16:25:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Without questioning the reality that there is an incredible amount of cache attached to a factory M what is your opinion as to the approximate difference in market value between an M and a normal BN2 given equal conditions. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 4:07 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Jean & All, > > I have to agree. $75K in this condition is just too much, given the rust > repair alone. I do not think it will sell at this price and will stick with > my $50K to $60K estimate, and I even think that this is way too much in the > current environment. > > Curt > > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 12:05 PM, Jean Caron < > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > >> Given the current economic climate both in North America and Europe, I >> would >> venture to say that $75,000 is way, way off base. I personally don't feel >> that >> in this condition, they are worth it, but who knows. >> >> Jean Caron >> >> >> > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:02:31 -0400 >> > From: tappiokie at gmail.com >> > To: healeys at autox.team.net >> > Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay >> > >> > I just talked to the owner/seller in Georgia. His reserve is $75K firm. >> Jim >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho >> tmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Aug 1 14:34:50 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:34:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <324BE09A596E4B71832EADC01EF1A94B@oscar> FWIW, I have a BN1/2 that is done, is reliable, will run away and hide from most other M's at half of what it will cost some one to make that one into "driver" level.. and one can enjoy it today.. Call me.. Dave PS, Like Rich, I'd like to help you restore it.. Last one won best M at San Diego and Gerry Coker commented that's it was the way he would have liked to see them done.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 2:26 PM To: Curt/Nancy Arndt Cc: tappiokie at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay Without questioning the reality that there is an incredible amount of cache attached to a factory M what is your opinion as to the approximate difference in market value between an M and a normal BN2 given equal conditions. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 4:07 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Jean & All, > > I have to agree. $75K in this condition is just too much, given the rust > repair alone. I do not think it will sell at this price and will stick with > my $50K to $60K estimate, and I even think that this is way too much in the > current environment. > > Curt > > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 12:05 PM, Jean Caron < > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > >> Given the current economic climate both in North America and Europe, I >> would >> venture to say that $75,000 is way, way off base. I personally don't feel >> that >> in this condition, they are worth it, but who knows. >> >> Jean Caron >> >> >> > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:02:31 -0400 >> > From: tappiokie at gmail.com >> > To: healeys at autox.team.net >> > Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100M on Ebay >> > >> > I just talked to the owner/seller in Georgia. His reserve is $75K firm. >> Jim >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at h o >> tmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From ah3000me at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 14:57:27 2011 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 16:57:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: In 10 years, will you even be able to find gasoline to run them with? My plan is to drive it and enjoy it while I can, and let someone else worry about what it's worth someday. - tom On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 3:19 PM, wrote: > Curt, > In 10 years time most who have any sentimental relation to an Austin-Healey > are dead or no more able to drive. So the buyers would be those who have > only > learned about the car and marque in books, magazines, internet, perhaps > from > their parents etc. But their feelings are with other cars than Healeys. The > prices will drop as people willing to buy a classic sports car to a price > of > $200K do not go with a 100M, as there are others like Aston Martins, > Jaguars, > Mercedes, Porsches, Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Maseratis, BMWs, Morgans, TVRs, > Lotuss, . when you have a look to the pre war classics. There values are > very > stable now and low compared. Lots of competition to a 100M. Why not go for > one > of the Works Sprites. They are a bargain compared to a 100M and a real > thing, > not a customer`s car. > > Josef > > Von: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] > Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 21:03 > An: Eckert, Josef > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M > > Josef, > > I have to disagree. I feel these cars will only go up in value and a > matching > numbers, Concours Gold example should be worth close to $200K. After all > it > will take that much to buy and restore one to that level in today's > dollars. > Just ask any reputable Healey restorer what it would take to bring this > currently offered car on eBay back to Concours standards? > > I remember when people said the same abut the 100S years ago when they were > $150K... Now look at the prices, $600K+ > > That being said, you can essentially get the same car with a BN1 or 2 > converted to Le Mans specifications. I didn't say these prices make sense, > only what I feel the reality is, and will be in the near future. > > Cheers, > > Curt > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 16:23:16 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 06:23:16 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Charging System?I recently had my C45-P5 Generator rebuilt. After installing it with a Part No. 37206 RB 108 2 12V. NOS Lucas control box I cleaned the points and adjusted the point setting per instructions from Lucas Technical Co In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Either the voltage relay's point gap needs to be increased a bit or also check to make sure the motor is properly and sufficiently grounded. On 8/2/11, Austin Healey wrote: > Hi Ron, > > I just did my setup yesterday. > Here are my experiences. Systems fitted with dynamos are rarely charging > 13.6 at idle (esp. if idling speed of the engine is as low as on a Healey) . > They usualy only "come in" to turn of the ign. light, but not much charge at > all. Normaly I get the right 14.2-14.4 charge at 1000-1200rpm. Anything > above 15V should be considered faulty. Overcharging will boil the battery > and may even kill some units (like bulbs, electric rev counters etc). > Voltage drop should be checked with the engine reved a bit (let say 2K). The > drop should not be significant there. > > Gergo > > 2011/8/1 Ron Mitchell > >> B Hi, >> >> I'm in need of some expert advise on the proper operation of a Lucas >> Charging System.B Here is my concern. >> >> I recently had my C45-P5 Generator >> rebuilt.B After installing it with a Part No. 37206 RB >> 108 2 B 12V. NOS Lucas >> control box I >> cleaned the points and adjusted the point settings per >> instructions from Lucas >> Technical Correspondence course session >> 5. >> B >> I then >> conducted B the test as instructed by the Technical >> Correspondence course >> session 5. >> I installed a Volt Gage to confirm that the idiot light >> is >> accurately informing me of a valid charging system. >> >> At idle speed the system >> is charging at 13.6 volts.B At highway speed with RPMb s around 2500 to >> 3000 >> RPM the system is charging at 15.6 to 16 volts.B This conforms to the >> stationary tests I've conducted of the >> system. >> When I turn the lights on Ib m >> only charging around 13.5 >> volts at speed or idle. >> B >> My questions are should >> the charging system be that >> dramatically different with the lights on?B >> Will my Generatorb s armature overheat from constantly trying to charge >> the >> battery with the settings I have set it to?B >> >> Will charging values at 15.6 >> to 16 Volts at highway speeds overcharge the >> Battery and boil out the fluids. >> B >> I havenb t found any answers to these questions on the >> internet so I >> thought I would ask the experts. >> B >> My questions are prompted by an incident >> last year whenB I experienced a generator failure after leaving Encounter >> 2010.B I had a shop in Elkton Maryland where my >> daughter lives install a >> Generator and Control Box to the tune of $675 >> dollars.B After leaving my >> daughters house >> in Elkton I had a complete electrical failure about 300 miles >> out and 365 miles >> from my home.B I had the car flat bedded >> home by AAA.B >> That was an additional $927 >> to add to the repairs cost.B The Generator >> re-builder that I use said that the armature had overheated and thrown out >> all >> the >> solder.B He felt the cause was an >> improperly adjusted Control Box.B I >> just >> want to make sure that my system is working properly and Ib m not going >> to >> destroy another generator. >> >> >> FOOTNOTE:B If you're ever in Elkton, MD and >> need service on your classic or domestic car, steer clear of Chris's >> Domestic >> & Foreign Car Service.B He wouldn't stand behind any of his complete >> service >> and parts warranty. >> >> B >> Any input will be appreciated. >> Ron Mitchell, Goodrich >> Michigan B 1962 MkII BN7 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 17:13:14 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 16:13:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: Tom, I trust you are kidding and just neglected to use the tongue in check symbol ;-^) at the end of your post. If not, I have a bridge in Brooklyn, family owned for many years that I'm willing to sell you for a good price ;-) Cheers, Curt On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 1:57 PM, Tom wrote: In 10 years, will you even be able to find gasoline to run them with? > > - tom From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 18:16:36 2011 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 19:16:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wacky Arnolt Message-ID: Thanks to the folks who answered my question. I never thought such minutia would be on the net, but I was given a good lesson in searching for everything and anything. Even got a phone call from a Healey lover who knows of a Arnolt Bertoni that is being restored. The folks on this list are super. Jack From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 1 23:21:40 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (Eyera3000) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 22:21:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wacky Arnolt In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0BF44F9F-7761-4D3D-8D67-82679C074098@gmail.com> Try Bertone Arnolt. Good looking MG sedan looks a lot like a Bristol. Any Bristol owners on the list. Driving one is on my bucket list I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 1, 2011, at 5:16 PM, Jack Feldman wrote: > Thanks to the folks who answered my question. I never thought such minutia > would be on the net, but I was given a good lesson in searching for > everything and anything. > > Even got a phone call from a Healey lover who knows of a Arnolt Bertoni that > is being restored. > > The folks on this list are super. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From twillig at ruda.de Tue Aug 2 00:22:47 2011 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 08:22:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14B0@dw01.ruda.local> After checking out the bracket one more time, I can confirm that enlarging the holes is the way to go. I should have known this... My thinking was far too sophisticated J Regards Thomas Willig Von: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com] Gesendet: Montag, 1. August 2011 16:37 An: 'Rich Chrysler'; healeys at autox.team.net; Thomas Willig Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Thomas, I believe Rich is correct. I researched the M setup a bit when installing it on my car, and I fitted the same bracket enlarging the holes. Also, there was no extra bracket in LeMans kit, AFAIK. Tadek Message: 11 Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:49:14 +0200 From: "Thomas Willig" To: "Rich Chrysler" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for 100M Choke abutment bracket Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14A7 at dw01.ruda.local> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Rich, no that's not the case (as far as I see it-enlightenment very welcome). The angle of the bracket has to be changed as well. Doing this, you have to cut the bracket were the abutment pin (the pin that fixes the outer control cable to the bracket) goes through the bracket. Thomas From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Aug 2 00:31:55 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (Eyera3000) Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 23:31:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Picked up carbs today Message-ID: <5744B8CC-F214-4B6D-9EAD-7ACB71B895E4@gmail.com> Picked my carbs today! Now trying to figure out if I have all the connecting bits to join them together. Does anyone have a close up photo of the linkage between the HD8 carbs? Please send link to photos or pics to me off list. Looking foward to heRing the beast roar again. Still have work to do before that can happen I Erbs From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Aug 2 01:52:46 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 09:52:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: Got to agree with Josef on this one. There really is very little special about a 100M, a few bits from the parts bin, it's a totally different animal to the 100S. The other concern I have is that today's market is driven by investors not enthusiasts. People with spare cash have nowhere to put it to secure a decent return so they have turned to classic cars. They will often buy anything that a Classic Car Investment Advisor (aka car dealer) tells them to. Far too much is being of the 'Factory' aspect of the 100M. It's a BN2 with a few extra bits and pieces that had already been made widely available to customers at an earlier date by the same manufacturer/dealer. When investors move elsewhere the prices will fall as Healey enthusiasts will not pay 150,000- 200,000 for a 100M. Im still staggered to think anyone would when you consider the range of very desirable classics you can get for that sort of money. Derek On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 1:13 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Tom, > > I trust you are kidding and just neglected to use the tongue in check > symbol > ;-^) at the end of your post. If not, I have a bridge in Brooklyn, family > owned for many years that I'm willing to sell you for a good price ;-) > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 1:57 PM, Tom wrote: > > In 10 years, will you even be able to find gasoline to run them with? > > > > - tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 2 08:27:56 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 07:27:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E38096C.70006@comcast.net> All true. Also irrelevant. There's a lot of economic theory involved but, essentially, an item is 'worth' what people are willing to pay for it. Apparently, people are willing to pay more for an 'M' than a 'stock' BN2. Besides some limited application in electronics, jewelery and some other areas, gold is useless--you can't eat it, fuel your cars with it, etc. (and jewelry is useless IMO)--yet its price keeps going up (yes, I understand the 'inflation hedge' aspect). Apple products are overpriced--everyone here in the Silicon Valley knows that--but people are willing to stand in line and pay the price anyway. I could go on. Too bad there isn't a market for 'short selling' cars and other collectibles--maybe that would offset the extravagant prices. And, you could put the 'investors move elsewhere' prediction into practice. Bob On 8/2/2011 12:52 AM, Derek Job wrote: > Got to agree with Josef on this one. > > There really is very little special about a 100M, a few bits from the parts > bin, it's a totally different animal to the 100S. The other concern I have > is that today's market is driven by investors not enthusiasts. People with > spare cash have nowhere to put it to secure a decent return so they have > turned to classic cars. They will often buy anything that a Classic Car > Investment Advisor (aka car dealer) tells them to. > > Far too much is being of the 'Factory' aspect of the 100M. It's a BN2 with a > few extra bits and pieces that had already been made widely available to > customers at an earlier date by the same manufacturer/dealer. > > When investors move elsewhere the prices will fall as Healey enthusiasts > will not pay 150,000- 200,000 for a 100M. Im still staggered to think anyone > would when you consider the range of very desirable classics you can get for > that sort of money. > > Derek > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Tue Aug 2 09:06:23 2011 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 08:06:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1312297583.38245.YahooMailClassic@web130213.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > > In 10 years, will you even be able to find gasoline to > run them with? > > > > > > - tom In fact, a few weeks ago, some engineers from GE proclaimed that solar will be in parity with fossil within 5 years. Best JK From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Aug 2 10:00:43 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 16:00:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] DVD Parts List Message-ID: <849405082.108557.1312300843419.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, I have the 100 & 100/6 "Original Technical Publications" on DVD, probably from Moss and for Windows 2000. I'm now using the Windows 7 operating system. Is there any way I can still access this DVD? Thanks, Ed Woods From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 2 10:33:55 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 9:33:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] DVD Parts List In-Reply-To: <849405082.108557.1312300843419.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20110802123355.KV83X.1412840.imail@fed1rmwml31> If your computer has a DVD drive it should play just as before. If not, go to "Computer" an dclick on the "Devices With Removable Storage" drive. It should launch and play as normal. Wilko ---- fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: > List, > > > > I have the 100 & 100/6 "Original Technical Publications" on DVD, probably from Moss and for Windows 2000. I'm now using the Windows 7 operating system. > > > > Is there any way I can still access this DVD? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Aug 2 12:40:11 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 20:40:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. Message-ID: Today I went out to visit my car with the intention of installing my new high torque starter motor. With two bolts and one electrical connection you'd think this would be pretty simple, especially as I had access to a lift. Three and a half hours later it was installed.....sort of. Part of the problem was that I don't have a good selection of tools with me but even so it seems next to impossible to access the lower bolt. I managed to get it off and the new motor in but I cannot find a way to re-install the lower bolt and nut. I have no room to get my hands in a position to be able to attach the nut to the bolt. I pushed the lower bolt through from front to back and with the upper bolt tightened the car started no problem allowing me to return it to its garage. Access is limited by the clutch slave cylinder, so my questions are. Do I have to remove that or does anybody have some tricks of the trade to allow me to attach the nut. Interestingly the bolt holding the original starter was installed pointing from the back to the front with the nut on the front. Im not sure that is the correct way but I tried that as well but just can't get any hold or purchase on to push the bolt through. Derek From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Aug 2 12:55:48 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 14:55:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Derek-- Clearance in there is very tight indeed. I cut a bit of metal away on the lower mounting ear to make it into a slot so that I could pass the ear down onto the lower bolt with a nut already started on it, then tipped the flange into the hole and installed the top bolt. Even so I recall I had to use a thin nut and jammed the bolt from the back with a screwdriver while I tightened the nut against it. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 2:40 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Today I went out to visit my car with the intention of installing my new > high torque starter motor. With two bolts and one electrical connection > you'd think this would be pretty simple, especially as I had access to a > lift. Three and a half hours later it was installed.....sort of. Part of the > problem was that I don't have a good selection of tools with me but even so > it seems next to impossible to access the lower bolt. I managed to get it > off and the new motor in but I cannot find a way to re-install the lower > bolt and nut. I have no room to get my hands in a position to be able to > attach the nut to the bolt. I pushed the lower bolt through from front to > back and with the upper bolt tightened the car started no problem allowing > me to return it to its garage. > > Access is limited by the clutch slave cylinder, so my questions are. Do I > have to remove that or does anybody have some tricks of the trade to allow > me to attach the nut. Interestingly the bolt holding the original starter > was installed pointing from the back to the front with the nut on the front. > Im not sure that is the correct way but I tried that as well but just can't > get any hold or purchase on to push the bolt through. > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Tue Aug 2 14:40:10 2011 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 15:40:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] DVD Parts List Message-ID: You don't say what you are trying to read it with. I bought a manual that was supposedly put out by the Heritage Trust but it wouldn't read on any version of Adobe Reader past V6! Upgrading Windows is always hazardous. I lost a number of nice, but non essential programs when I went to XP. Jack From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Wed Aug 3 09:08:39 2011 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry rowe) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 08:08:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601cc51ef$39c6b860$ad542920$@net.au> Derek I did this 2 weeks ago. Took about 2-3 hours with lots of swearing etc. Had to put the bolt from the rear with a narrower nut in the front.Took a bit of fiddling to get the nut started. Used an open end spanner on the nut and a ratchet socket on the bolt (Put spring washer on bolt end and used Loctite and will have to keep an eye on it. I used about a 2" extension on the socket. In retrospect, I should have removed the slave cylinder. I also had to remove the modified oil filter. Ps you also need thin fingers) But in the end it was well worth it!! John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: Tuesday, 2 August 2011 11:40 AM To: Forum Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. Today I went out to visit my car with the intention of installing my new high torque starter motor. With two bolts and one electrical connection you'd think this would be pretty simple, especially as I had access to a lift. Three and a half hours later it was installed.....sort of. Part of the problem was that I don't have a good selection of tools with me but even so it seems next to impossible to access the lower bolt. I managed to get it off and the new motor in but I cannot find a way to re-install the lower bolt and nut. I have no room to get my hands in a position to be able to attach the nut to the bolt. I pushed the lower bolt through from front to back and with the upper bolt tightened the car started no problem allowing me to return it to its garage. Access is limited by the clutch slave cylinder, so my questions are. Do I have to remove that or does anybody have some tricks of the trade to allow me to attach the nut. Interestingly the bolt holding the original starter was installed pointing from the back to the front with the nut on the front. Im not sure that is the correct way but I tried that as well but just can't get any hold or purchase on to push the bolt through. Derek _______________________________________________ From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Aug 2 17:19:09 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 19:19:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. In-Reply-To: <000601cc51ef$39c6b860$ad542920$@net.au> References: <000601cc51ef$39c6b860$ad542920$@net.au> Message-ID: <021801cc516a$95b54590$c11fd0b0$@verizon.net> My wife rates the difficulty (and necessity) of the work by the assortment of extremely off color words that are used. Wouldn't be fun if things were easy. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Kerry rowe Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 11:09 AM To: 'Derek Job' Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. Derek I did this 2 weeks ago. Took about 2-3 hours with lots of swearing etc. Had to put the bolt from the rear with a narrower nut in the front.Took a bit of fiddling to get the nut started. Used an open end spanner on the nut and a ratchet socket on the bolt (Put spring washer on bolt end and used Loctite and will have to keep an eye on it. I used about a 2" extension on the socket. In retrospect, I should have removed the slave cylinder. I also had to remove the modified oil filter. Ps you also need thin fingers) But in the end it was well worth it!! John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: Tuesday, 2 August 2011 11:40 AM To: Forum Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. Today I went out to visit my car with the intention of installing my new high torque starter motor. With two bolts and one electrical connection you'd think this would be pretty simple, especially as I had access to a lift. Three and a half hours later it was installed.....sort of. Part of the problem was that I don't have a good selection of tools with me but even so it seems next to impossible to access the lower bolt. I managed to get it off and the new motor in but I cannot find a way to re-install the lower bolt and nut. I have no room to get my hands in a position to be able to attach the nut to the bolt. I pushed the lower bolt through from front to back and with the upper bolt tightened the car started no problem allowing me to return it to its garage. Access is limited by the clutch slave cylinder, so my questions are. Do I have to remove that or does anybody have some tricks of the trade to allow me to attach the nut. Interestingly the bolt holding the original starter was installed pointing from the back to the front with the nut on the front. Im not sure that is the correct way but I tried that as well but just can't get any hold or purchase on to push the bolt through. Derek _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 2 17:28:36 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 16:28:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. In-Reply-To: <021801cc516a$95b54590$c11fd0b0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20110802192836.8U9N1.1421626.imail@fed1rmwml4101> When I saw that John Sims was responding to this thread, I fully expected the message to say "I have an article about this bolt on my website in the technical section..." Wilko ---- John Sims wrote: > My wife rates the difficulty (and necessity) of the work by the assortment > of extremely off color words that are used. Wouldn't be fun if things were > easy. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of John & Kerry rowe > Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 11:09 AM > To: 'Derek Job' > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. > > Derek > I did this 2 weeks ago. Took about 2-3 hours with lots of swearing etc. Had > to put the bolt from the rear with a narrower nut in the front.Took a bit of > fiddling to get the nut started. Used an open end spanner on the nut and a > ratchet socket on the bolt (Put spring washer on bolt end and used Loctite > and will have to keep an eye on it. I used about a 2" extension on the > socket. In retrospect, I should have removed the slave cylinder. I also had > to remove the modified oil filter. > Ps you also need thin fingers) > But in the end it was well worth it!! > > John Rowe Qld Australia > > BN1 BT7 From ah3000me at gmail.com Tue Aug 2 17:39:38 2011 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 19:39:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: Curt, Well, seriously, in 10 years we'll still have gas. Too many of today's cars will still be on the road. But, in 20 years, I think diesel wins and gas is hard to find. Diesel fuel mileage is better, it's easier to refine, and it refines with cruder oil. Unlike all-electric or LNG-powered vehicles, the refueling infrastructure is mostly in place for diesel, too. I think our gas-powered engines are standing in line behind the LP, 8-track, laser-disc, etc. I think it's just a matter of time. - Tom On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 7:13 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Tom, > > I trust you are kidding and just neglected to use the tongue in check > symbol ;-^) at the end of your post. If not, I have a bridge in Brooklyn, > family owned for many years that I'm willing to sell you for a good price > ;-) > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 1:57 PM, Tom wrote: > > In 10 years, will you even be able to find gasoline to run them with? >> >> - tom From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Aug 2 18:20:53 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 17:20:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: diesel is a by product of making gasoline http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080514073724AAa6Av0. I think the reports of the death of gas has been exagerated. As long as auto makes can resist the cost of retooling, petrol engines will be made in mass quantities. I predict many of you will be joining me in paying any amount in the future to drive out cars. Seeing as I can't imagine driving my car more than 1-2K miles in a year. On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 4:39 PM, Tom wrote: > Curt, > > Well, seriously, in 10 years we'll still have gas. Too many of today's cars > will still be on the road. But, in 20 years, I think diesel wins and gas > is hard to find. Diesel fuel mileage is better, it's easier to refine, and > it refines with cruder oil. Unlike all-electric or LNG-powered vehicles, > the refueling infrastructure is mostly in place for diesel, too. I think > our gas-powered engines are standing in line behind the LP, 8-track, > laser-disc, etc. I think it's just a matter of time. > > - Tom > > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 7:13 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt > wrote: > > > Tom, > > > > I trust you are kidding and just neglected to use the tongue in check > > symbol ;-^) at the end of your post. If not, I have a bridge in > Brooklyn, > > family owned for many years that I'm willing to sell you for a good price > > ;-) > > > > Cheers, > > > > Curt > > > > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 1:57 PM, Tom wrote: > > > > In 10 years, will you even be able to find gasoline to run them with? > >> > >> - tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From cleona44 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 2 18:28:00 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 20:28:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. In-Reply-To: <20110802192836.8U9N1.1421626.imail@fed1rmwml4101> References: <021801cc516a$95b54590$c11fd0b0$@verizon.net>, <20110802192836.8U9N1.1421626.imail@fed1rmwml4101> Message-ID: Not only an article. but also photos to go with it jim > Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 16:28:36 -0700 > From: e-wilkins at cox.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. > > When I saw that John Sims was responding to this thread, I fully expected the message to say "I have an article about this bolt on my website in the technical section..." > > Wilko > > ---- John Sims wrote: > > My wife rates the difficulty (and necessity) of the work by the assortment > > of extremely off color words that are used. Wouldn't be fun if things were > > easy. > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of John & Kerry rowe > > Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 11:09 AM > > To: 'Derek Job' > > Cc: Healey List > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. > > > > Derek > > I did this 2 weeks ago. Took about 2-3 hours with lots of swearing etc. Had > > to put the bolt from the rear with a narrower nut in the front.Took a bit of > > fiddling to get the nut started. Used an open end spanner on the nut and a > > ratchet socket on the bolt (Put spring washer on bolt end and used Loctite > > and will have to keep an eye on it. I used about a 2" extension on the > > socket. In retrospect, I should have removed the slave cylinder. I also had > > to remove the modified oil filter. > > Ps you also need thin fingers) > > But in the end it was well worth it!! > > > > John Rowe Qld Australia > > > > BN1 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Aug 2 19:08:30 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 21:08:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. In-Reply-To: References: <021801cc516a$95b54590$c11fd0b0$@verizon.net>, <20110802192836.8U9N1.1421626.imail@fed1rmwml4101> Message-ID: <021c01cc5179$dc4e8d90$94eba8b0$@verizon.net> Or I could just make a recording of what comes out of my mouth the next time I have the car up on stands, it is 40 degrees, my arthritic thumbs are cramping up and I just dropped another nut after snaking my hand up into a space that is too tight even for my 10 year old grandson to get his fingers into. I will repeat it again, I firmly believe that the positions that you have to get into and the difficulty of reaching some of these spots to make repairs are the Brits revenge for losing the Revolutionary War. But, photos will be included! As an aside, I bought a thingy from Griots Garage that slips over your finger that has a magnet in it at the tip. Makes it a lot easier to hold a washer or nut to put it into a bolt on a cramped space. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lesher Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 8:28 PM To: e-wilkins at cox.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. Not only an article. but also photos to go with it jim > Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 16:28:36 -0700 > From: e-wilkins at cox.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. > > When I saw that John Sims was responding to this thread, I fully > expected the message to say "I have an article about this bolt on my website in the technical section..." > > Wilko > > ---- John Sims wrote: > > My wife rates the difficulty (and necessity) of the work by the assortment > > of extremely off color words that are used. Wouldn't be fun if > > things were > > easy. > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of John & Kerry rowe > > Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 11:09 AM > > To: 'Derek Job' > > Cc: Healey List > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. > > > > Derek > > I did this 2 weeks ago. Took about 2-3 hours with lots of swearing etc. Had > > to put the bolt from the rear with a narrower nut in the front.Took > > a bit of > > fiddling to get the nut started. Used an open end spanner on the nut > > and a > > ratchet socket on the bolt (Put spring washer on bolt end and used Loctite > > and will have to keep an eye on it. I used about a 2" extension on > > the socket. In retrospect, I should have removed the slave cylinder. > > I also had > > to remove the modified oil filter. > > Ps you also need thin fingers) > > But in the end it was well worth it!! > > > > John Rowe Qld Australia > > > > BN1 BT7 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed Aug 3 00:21:18 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 16:21:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. In-Reply-To: <021c01cc5179$dc4e8d90$94eba8b0$@verizon.net> References: <021801cc516a$95b54590$c11fd0b0$@verizon.net>, <20110802192836.8U9N1.1421626.imail@fed1rmwml4101> <021c01cc5179$dc4e8d90$94eba8b0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: G'day John Not everyone had a Revolutionary War. They just used this place to dump their unwanted criminals. By the way I removed the starter from the BN3 just a few weeks back without a problem and believe me there was much less room than a production car. However it did help that the gearbox tunnel was also removed and all engine ancillaries had been previously removed. A second BTW - Yes you can fit a six-cylinder engine through a four-cylinder front shroud opening. Not straightforward mind you, but it can be done. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Wednesday, 3 August 2011 11:09 AM To: 'Jim Lesher'; e-wilkins at cox.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accessing lower bolt on starter motor. Or I could just make a recording of what comes out of my mouth the next time I have the car up on stands, it is 40 degrees, my arthritic thumbs are cramping up and I just dropped another nut after snaking my hand up into a space that is too tight even for my 10 year old grandson to get his fingers into. I will repeat it again, I firmly believe that the positions that you have to get into and the difficulty of reaching some of these spots to make repairs are the Brits revenge for losing the Revolutionary War. But, photos will be included! As an aside, I bought a thingy from Griots Garage that slips over your finger that has a magnet in it at the tip. Makes it a lot easier to hold a washer or nut to put it into a bolt on a cramped space. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Wed Aug 3 00:58:21 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 08:58:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: The most feasible prognozis I heard is that the oil consumption of the world will decrease by a similar diagram as it raised. Maybe a bit steeper. Two main things will force this: the price of the gasoline and the alternative solutions (plus I hope another two will strenghten this: manufacturers producing lower consumption cars, people will hopefully adjust their lifestile to the present conditions). Theese effects are a "bit" overshadowed by the fact that the consumption of Asia is raising rapidly. The decreesing will last nearly as long as the increasing period, soo my bet would be at least 25-30 years for gasoline. Of course it wont get cheaper though, but if we summarize the amount we spend on our cars, the gasoline fee is not the highest prized heading. By far not. Even in the EU (lol). We all know now that "bio-fuel" is not a solution for the mass of the world (would raise food prices massively), but who tells that ethanol is not good for oldtimers if gasoline is hard to get? Ethanol is made of vegetable cut-offs, soo will be available as long as we plant and harvest (or at least cut the grass). I know that it has its own problems, but chemistry will produce its solution for the problem, if the market demands one. Soo I think our beloved cars have good chance to see some happy 10K miles before the last sound of the internal combustions fades away. Gergo 2011/8/3 I Erbs > diesel is a by product of making gasoline > http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080514073724AAa6Av0. > I think the reports of the death of gas has been exagerated. > As long as auto makes can resist the cost of retooling, petrol engines will > be made in mass quantities. > I predict many of you will be joining me in paying any amount in the future > to drive out cars. Seeing as I can't imagine driving my car more than 1-2K > miles in a year. > > On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 4:39 PM, Tom wrote: > > > Curt, > > > > Well, seriously, in 10 years we'll still have gas. Too many of today's > cars > > will still be on the road. But, in 20 years, I think diesel wins and > gas > > is hard to find. Diesel fuel mileage is better, it's easier to refine, > and > > it refines with cruder oil. Unlike all-electric or LNG-powered vehicles, > > the refueling infrastructure is mostly in place for diesel, too. I think > > our gas-powered engines are standing in line behind the LP, 8-track, > > laser-disc, etc. I think it's just a matter of time. > > > > - Tom > > > > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 7:13 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt > > wrote: > > > > > Tom, > > > > > > I trust you are kidding and just neglected to use the tongue in check > > > symbol ;-^) at the end of your post. If not, I have a bridge in > > Brooklyn, > > > family owned for many years that I'm willing to sell you for a good > price > > > ;-) > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > Curt > > > > > > On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 1:57 PM, Tom wrote: > > > > > > In 10 years, will you even be able to find gasoline to run them with? > > >> > > >> - tom > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 3 08:05:06 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2011 07:05:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS Message-ID: <4E395592.3060902@comcast.net> Interesting (to me, at least) to contrast this with the 100M on eBay: http://www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=742 -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Aug 3 10:15:15 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 09:15:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 carb linkage request Message-ID: Thanks to all who sent photos. After looking all over, I am unable to locate the linkage piece. . Anyone have one collecting dust they want to send my way asap? Need the piece that connects both HD8 carbs and the linkage -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Wed Aug 3 10:18:19 2011 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 09:18:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS In-Reply-To: <4E395592.3060902@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1312388299.58493.YahooMailClassic@web130222.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The leading edge of the cove is... interesting Best JK --- On Wed, 8/3/11, Bob Spidell wrote: > From: Bob Spidell > Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS > To: "healeylist" > Date: Wednesday, August 3, 2011, 10:05 AM > Interesting (to me, at least) to > contrast this with the 100M on eBay: > > http://www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=742 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Aug 3 13:06:33 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 12:06:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] linkage update Message-ID: Yahoo, found the linkage piece and a couple of other bits for the install. Should have them installed this weekend. Anyone have experience installing BCS cable throttle kit for BJ8 Carbs. Please contact off list with advice and or photos. So I have to run my + battery cable to boot. finish installing gauges and hook up dash electrics, hang my exhaust and check my re-wire and I can fire up this beast! Portland ABFM is Labor day weekend. Want to have it running in time to sort out any Lucas gremlins before then... I will have some extras of resto to post on John Sim's site for sale over the weekend. Just to list a few right now New, Black side shift 100-6, BT7 full carpet set $200.00 Rebuilt adjust column traficator with new wire harness $325.00 used but in good shape running light covers,chrome,boots make offer used rag top. good for parts, all wood is great, has latches, might work OK on a beater or for taking apart to see how its done by reverse engineering $175.00 Good black on black front seat covers. a couple of small rips on rear edge of seat below clip line $125.00. pair will include seat foam and pan( both excellent condition for Moss replacement cost. Hell I'll seel the seat backs to for replacement cost. just bolt these babies in and go. instant upgrade. various inside and outside roadster door handles. slightly used black center shift carpet set $125.00 all require buyer to pay shipping cost. -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From akronzips at aol.com Wed Aug 3 15:16:01 2011 From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 17:16:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE2039ADFC29A5-15D0-B05D@web-mmc-d05.sysops.aol.com> Ira Just FYI When I go to your site and punch the links connection it hangs up my computer. Are you having problems with the site? Just trying to help. It just froze my computer and I had to disconnect to get out of it. Thanks Howard 61 BT7 Tri-carb akronzips at aol.com -----Original Message----- From: I Erbs To: Ahealey help Sent: Wed, Aug 3, 2011 3:14 pm Subject: [Healeys] linkage update Yahoo, ound the linkage piece and a couple of other bits for the install. Should ave them installed this weekend. nyone have experience installing BCS cable throttle kit for BJ8 Carbs. lease contact off list with advice and or photos. o I have to run my + battery cable to boot. inish installing gauges and hook up dash electrics, ang my exhaust and check my re-wire and I can fire up this beast! Portland BFM is Labor day weekend. Want to have it running in time to sort out any ucas gremlins before then... I will have some extras of resto to post on John Sim's site for sale over he weekend. ust to list a few right now ew, Black side shift 100-6, BT7 full carpet set $200.00 ebuilt adjust column traficator with new wire harness $325.00 sed but in good shape running light covers,chrome,boots make offer sed rag top. good for parts, all wood is great, has latches, might work OK n a beater or for taking apart to see how its done by reverse engineering $175.00 ood black on black front seat covers. a couple of small rips on rear edge f seat below clip line $125.00. pair will include seat foam and pan( oth excellent condition for Moss replacement cost. Hell I'll seel the seat acks to for replacement cost. just bolt these babies in and go. instant pgrade. various inside and outside roadster door handles. lightly used black center shift carpet set $125.00 ll require buyer to pay shipping cost. - ra Erbs ortland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Aug 3 15:52:13 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2011 17:52:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? In-Reply-To: <8CE2039ADFC29A5-15D0-B05D@web-mmc-d05.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE2039ADFC29A5-15D0-B05D@web-mmc-d05.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <006601cc5227$9b2cd2f0$d18678d0$@verizon.net> I didn't have a problem. Which link did you try to click on? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of akronzips at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 5:16 PM To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? Ira Just FYI When I go to your site and punch the links connection it hangs up my computer. Are you having problems with the site? Just trying to help. It just froze my computer and I had to disconnect to get out of it. Thanks Howard 61 BT7 Tri-carb akronzips at aol.com -----Original Message----- From: I Erbs To: Ahealey help Sent: Wed, Aug 3, 2011 3:14 pm Subject: [Healeys] linkage update Yahoo, ound the linkage piece and a couple of other bits for the install. Should ave them installed this weekend. nyone have experience installing BCS cable throttle kit for BJ8 Carbs. lease contact off list with advice and or photos. o I have to run my + battery cable to boot. inish installing gauges and hook up dash electrics, ang my exhaust and check my re-wire and I can fire up this beast! Portland BFM is Labor day weekend. Want to have it running in time to sort out any ucas gremlins before then... I will have some extras of resto to post on John Sim's site for sale over he weekend. ust to list a few right now ew, Black side shift 100-6, BT7 full carpet set $200.00 ebuilt adjust column traficator with new wire harness $325.00 sed but in good shape running light covers,chrome,boots make offer sed rag top. good for parts, all wood is great, has latches, might work OK n a beater or for taking apart to see how its done by reverse engineering $175.00 ood black on black front seat covers. a couple of small rips on rear edge f seat below clip line $125.00. pair will include seat foam and pan( oth excellent condition for Moss replacement cost. Hell I'll seel the seat acks to for replacement cost. just bolt these babies in and go. instant pgrade. various inside and outside roadster door handles. lightly used black center shift carpet set $125.00 ll require buyer to pay shipping cost. - ra Erbs ortland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Aug 2 20:44:49 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 21:44:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] How long will we have gas? was Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> Message-ID: <608785A9D3C340DEAD465F7C79B898AE@GregPC> Manufacturers are making great strides for better MPG with gasoline engines, which may keep gasoline readily available a while longer, of course if a few billion Chinese start driving cars in the next 10-15 years it will more than offset any efficiencies achieved. Here is an example of better gas MPG: http://www.caranddriver.com/news/car/11q1/2012_mazda_3_to_get_face_lift_163-hp_skyactiv_engine-car_news Greg Lemon From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Wed Aug 3 17:53:05 2011 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 16:53:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Timing chain tensioner question Message-ID: <1312415585.17205.YahooMailClassic@web36704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Is there a consensus on the 100 4-cyl timing chain tensioner ring? When searching the archives I find a lot of compelling arguments for leaving it out as well as arguments for putting in a new tensioner ring. In short the arguments against are it can brake up and clog oil passages and cause damage vs. it's doing the job it's supposed to do and take up any slack, reducing wear on the gears and chain and keeping things quiet. My engine is out of the car, rebuild by the PO without tensioner, not sure if that was intentionally. I am going over every part of the engine before putting it back in the car in a month or so. Now would be easy to put a tensioner ring in. BTW, when the engine was fired up 6 years ago after I got the "project" car, there was no apparent or excessive sound coming from the timing chain area. Bert 56 BN2 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Aug 3 18:40:04 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 20:40:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Timing chain tensioner question In-Reply-To: <1312415585.17205.YahooMailClassic@web36704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1312415585.17205.YahooMailClassic@web36704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004f01cc523f$0d2fb770$278f2650$@net> Bert, The possibility of the rubber tensioner ring breaking up will occur with one that's 55 years old, having become old and brittle. A new one will certainly be there to do its job, shouldn't break up and will be quieter. The noise I've heard will be most noticeable at low revs, like a low rattling, but hard to describe. I would recommend you certainly install a new one as I always do on these Hundred engines. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bert Van Brande Sent: 2011-08-03 7:53 To: List Healey Subject: [Healeys] 100 Timing chain tensioner question Is there a consensus on the 100 4-cyl timing chain tensioner ring? When searching the archives I find a lot of compelling arguments for leaving it out as well as arguments for putting in a new tensioner ring. In short the arguments against are it can brake up and clog oil passages and cause damage vs. it's doing the job it's supposed to do and take up any slack, reducing wear on the gears and chain and keeping things quiet. My engine is out of the car, rebuild by the PO without tensioner, not sure if that was intentionally. I am going over every part of the engine before putting it back in the car in a month or so. Now would be easy to put a tensioner ring in. BTW, when the engine was fired up 6 years ago after I got the "project" car, there was no apparent or excessive sound coming from the timing chain area. Bert 56 BN2 _______________________________________________ From kentmclean at comcast.net Wed Aug 3 18:51:47 2011 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2011 20:51:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E39ED23.5090409@comcast.net> Tom wrote: > But, in 20 years, I think diesel wins and gas > is hard to find. Diesel fuel mileage is better, it's easier to refine, and > it refines with cruder oil. S'all right by me. I believe the 4-cylinder in my 100 can be replaced fairly easily with the 4-cylinder diesel out of a London taxi. Someone (Denis Welch? John Chatham?) built a diesel 100, or at least used a diesel block for a replacement engine. Sorry, I have CRS (Can't Remember Shtuff). -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Wed Aug 3 19:48:55 2011 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 18:48:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <4E39ED23.5090409@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1312422535.31321.YahooMailClassic@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Austin taxi FX3 diesel engine modification is probably not too hard for the 100. But can you imagine that tappety-tap sound? You'll have to start charging a fare too. John Chatham built a 100 rally engine based on a taxi diesel block. Michael Salter mentions this on his blog: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=189 Michael used the crank of an fx3 for his 100s engine. Some parts for the 100 can be sourced straight off a Taxi. The handsome brute book mentions the front suspension and brakes for instance or the 4.875 diff for racing. I've been driving by a pub in Pasadena lately that has an old taxi on display outside. Next time I need to bring a wrench or maybe a wench. ;-) b. --- On Thu, 8/4/11, Kent McLean wrote: > From: Kent McLean > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original Unrestored 100M > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thursday, August 4, 2011, 2:51 AM > Tom wrote: > > But, in 20 years, I think diesel wins and gas > > is hard to find. Diesel fuel mileage is better, > it's easier to refine, and > > it refines with cruder oil. > > S'all right by me. I believe the 4-cylinder in my 100 > can be replaced fairly > easily with the 4-cylinder diesel out of a London taxi. > Someone (Denis Welch? > John Chatham?) built a diesel 100, or at least used a > diesel block for a > replacement engine. > > Sorry, I have CRS (Can't Remember Shtuff). > > -- Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Aug 3 20:13:46 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 21:13:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Timing chain tensioner question In-Reply-To: <004f01cc523f$0d2fb770$278f2650$@net> References: <1312415585.17205.YahooMailClassic@web36704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <004f01cc523f$0d2fb770$278f2650$@net> Message-ID: <98F29E5B15FE463CB43DEDA355611FAE@GregPC> I agree with Rich, although when I took my 100 motor apart I discovered the same thing, tensioner missing, no apparant bad sounds or ill effects, but a new one should make timing more precise, reduce wear on the chain, reduce noise, and last a good long time. I think there has been an issue with either the new cam sprocket not being machined deep enough or the new tensioners being too thick? So might check with a Healey specialist who has an idea of what they are selling (vs. the "big box" LBC retailers) when sourcing the parts. Greg Lemon From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Wed Aug 3 21:33:58 2011 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 20:33:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS In-Reply-To: <4E395592.3060902@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1312428838.62395.YahooMailClassic@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This same car is for sale on ebay too: 220819423743 I emailed Kentcarcollection, the ebay listing might be a scam. b. --- On Wed, 8/3/11, Bob Spidell wrote: > From: Bob Spidell > Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS > To: "healeylist" > Date: Wednesday, August 3, 2011, 4:05 PM > Interesting (to me, at least) to > contrast this with the 100M on eBay: > > http://www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=742 > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell > San Jose, CA > bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Aug 3 21:52:57 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 23:52:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS In-Reply-To: <1312428838.62395.YahooMailClassic@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <4E395592.3060902@comcast.net> <1312428838.62395.YahooMailClassic@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001b01cc5259$ff6d6c70$fe484550$@net> This same car was for sale on Craigs List a year ago. Note they are using the engine number for the 6 digit car number, not uncommon over the years. The car's real vin would be in the area of 152000 and would have been built about mid February of '54 so should have alloy bonnet and boot lid and signal flap style side screens. I have no idea of ownership. Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bert Van Brande Sent: 2011-08-03 11:34 To: healeylist; Bob Spidell Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 FS This same car is for sale on ebay too: 220819423743 I emailed Kentcarcollection, the ebay listing might be a scam. b. --- On Wed, 8/3/11, Bob Spidell wrote: > From: Bob Spidell > Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS > To: "healeylist" > Date: Wednesday, August 3, 2011, 4:05 PM > Interesting (to me, at least) to > contrast this with the 100M on eBay: > > http://www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=742 > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell > San Jose, CA > bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Aug 3 22:05:28 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 21:05:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? In-Reply-To: <8CE206F5E010C97-12D0-16C8A@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE2039ADFC29A5-15D0-B05D@web-mmc-d05.sysops.aol.com> <8CE20673C17EF48-C4C-13527@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com> <8CE206F5E010C97-12D0-16C8A@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: yup. ghost site. does not work On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 8:40 PM, wrote: > Yes it's a picture of you with your son in the car and the sound of a > Healey reving up > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: I Erbs > To: akronzips > Sent: Wed, Aug 3, 2011 11:07 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? > > Is there a photo of my son and I in. A red healey or??? > The site with healey should have come down years ago, but the host keeps it > up. I have no control over it. Trying to figure what site you found.... > Ira Erbs > IT Consultant > Portland, OR > sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because > my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write > On Aug 3, 2011 7:42 PM, wrote: > > > > Ira > > I can see all the other parts of your site except the links connection. > That's all I wanted to tell you. > > Howard 61 BT7 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: I Erbs > > To: akronzips > > Sent: Wed, Aug 3, 2011 5:34 pm > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? > > > > > > Not an active site, sorry it should say under construction. What did you > see > > Ira Erbs > > IT Consultant > > Portland, OR > > sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections > because my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write > > On Aug 3, 2011 2:16 PM, wrote: > >> > >> Ira > >> Just FYI > >> When I go to your site and punch the links connection it hangs up my > computer. Are you having problems with the site? > >> Just trying to help. It just froze my computer and I had to disconnect > to get out of it. > >> Thanks > >> Howard 61 BT7 Tri-carb > >> akronzips at aol.com > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: I Erbs > >> To: Ahealey help > >> Sent: Wed, Aug 3, 2011 3:14 pm > >> Subject: [Healeys] linkage update > >> > >> > >> Yahoo, > >> ound the linkage piece and a couple of other bits for the install. > Should > >> ave them installed this weekend. > >> nyone have experience installing BCS cable throttle kit for BJ8 Carbs. > >> lease contact off list with advice and or photos. > >> o I have to run my + battery cable to boot. > >> inish installing gauges and hook up dash electrics, > >> ang my exhaust and check my re-wire and I can fire up this beast! > Portland > >> BFM is Labor day weekend. Want to have it running in time to sort out > any > >> ucas gremlins before then... > >> I will have some extras of resto to post on John Sim's site for sale > over > >> he weekend. > >> ust to list a few right now > >> ew, Black side shift 100-6, BT7 full carpet set $200.00 > >> ebuilt adjust column traficator with new wire harness $325.00 > >> sed but in good shape running light covers,chrome,boots make offer > >> sed rag top. good for parts, all wood is great, has latches, might work > OK > >> n a beater or for taking apart to see how its done by reverse > engineering > >> $175.00 > >> ood black on black front seat covers. a couple of small rips on rear > edge > >> f seat below clip line $125.00. pair will include seat foam and pan( > >> oth excellent condition for Moss replacement cost. Hell I'll seel the > seat > >> acks to for replacement cost. just bolt these babies in and go. instant > >> pgrade. > >> various inside and outside roadster door handles. > >> lightly used black center shift carpet set $125.00 > >> ll require buyer to pay shipping cost. > >> > >> - > >> ra Erbs > >> ortland, OR > >> _______ _______ > >> (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > >> (_________________________) > >> ______________________________________________ > >> ealeys at autox.team.net > >> onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> uggested annual donation $12.75 > >> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> orums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> nsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com > >> > > > > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From slomo100 at sisna.com Wed Aug 3 22:11:49 2011 From: slomo100 at sisna.com (John Morrison) Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 22:11:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: I have a BN7/BT7 transmission that has been taken apart and is now reassembled. Problem: When the bell housing is tightened up the trans won't go into neutral. If the cap screws are loosened 3/4 turn it will go into neutral. What have we done wrong? From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 3 22:39:46 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 12:39:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? In-Reply-To: References: <8CE2039ADFC29A5-15D0-B05D@web-mmc-d05.sysops.aol.com> <8CE20673C17EF48-C4C-13527@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com> <8CE206F5E010C97-12D0-16C8A@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Ira - clear out your browser's memory cache and start over, it'll probably work then. On Thu, Aug 4, 2011 at 12:05 PM, I Erbs wrote: > yup. ghost site. does not work > > On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 8:40 PM, wrote: > > > Yes it's a picture of you with your son in the car and the sound of a > > Healey reving up > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: I Erbs > > To: akronzips > > Sent: Wed, Aug 3, 2011 11:07 pm > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? > > > > Is there a photo of my son and I in. A red healey or??? > > The site with healey should have come down years ago, but the host keeps > it > > up. I have no control over it. Trying to figure what site you found.... > > Ira Erbs > > IT Consultant > > Portland, OR > > sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections > because > > my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write > > On Aug 3, 2011 7:42 PM, wrote: > > > > > > Ira > > > I can see all the other parts of your site except the links connection. > > That's all I wanted to tell you. > > > Howard 61 BT7 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: I Erbs > > > To: akronzips > > > Sent: Wed, Aug 3, 2011 5:34 pm > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] linkage update//Problems? > > > > > > > > > Not an active site, sorry it should say under construction. What did > you > > see > > > Ira Erbs > > > IT Consultant > > > Portland, OR > > > sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections > > because my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write > > > On Aug 3, 2011 2:16 PM, wrote: > > >> > > >> Ira > > >> Just FYI > > >> When I go to your site and punch the links connection it hangs up my > > computer. Are you having problems with the site? > > >> Just trying to help. It just froze my computer and I had to disconnect > > to get out of it. > > >> Thanks > > >> Howard 61 BT7 Tri-carb > > >> akronzips at aol.com > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> -----Original Message----- > > >> From: I Erbs > > >> To: Ahealey help > > >> Sent: Wed, Aug 3, 2011 3:14 pm > > >> Subject: [Healeys] linkage update > > >> > > >> > > >> Yahoo, > > >> ound the linkage piece and a couple of other bits for the install. > > Should > > >> ave them installed this weekend. > > >> nyone have experience installing BCS cable throttle kit for BJ8 Carbs. > > >> lease contact off list with advice and or photos. > > >> o I have to run my + battery cable to boot. > > >> inish installing gauges and hook up dash electrics, > > >> ang my exhaust and check my re-wire and I can fire up this beast! > > Portland > > >> BFM is Labor day weekend. Want to have it running in time to sort out > > any > > >> ucas gremlins before then... > > >> I will have some extras of resto to post on John Sim's site for sale > > over > > >> he weekend. > > >> ust to list a few right now > > >> ew, Black side shift 100-6, BT7 full carpet set $200.00 > > >> ebuilt adjust column traficator with new wire harness $325.00 > > >> sed but in good shape running light covers,chrome,boots make offer > > >> sed rag top. good for parts, all wood is great, has latches, might > work > > OK > > >> n a beater or for taking apart to see how its done by reverse > > engineering > > >> $175.00 > > >> ood black on black front seat covers. a couple of small rips on rear > > edge > > >> f seat below clip line $125.00. pair will include seat foam and pan( > > >> oth excellent condition for Moss replacement cost. Hell I'll seel the > > seat > > >> acks to for replacement cost. just bolt these babies in and go. > instant > > >> pgrade. > > >> various inside and outside roadster door handles. > > >> lightly used black center shift carpet set $125.00 > > >> ll require buyer to pay shipping cost. > > >> > > >> - > > >> ra Erbs > > >> ortland, OR > > >> _______ _______ > > >> (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > > >> (_________________________) > > >> ______________________________________________ > > >> ealeys at autox.team.net > > >> onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > >> uggested annual donation $12.75 > > >> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > > >> orums: http://www.team.net/forums > > >> nsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/akronzips at aol.com > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 3 22:48:15 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 12:48:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: John - Sounds to me like you don't have the dowel bolts on your bell housing. There are two "dowel bolts," which have a slightly larger diameter shank and go in the I think the 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock positions or something like that. These bolts serve to properly center the gearbox with the engine. Your gearbox is probably off center and binding slightly cocked with the pilot bushing in the crankshaft, binding the whole thing up. Regards, Alan On Thu, Aug 4, 2011 at 12:11 PM, John Morrison wrote: > I have a BN7/BT7 transmission that has been taken apart and is now > reassembled. Problem: When the bell housing is tightened up the trans > won't go into neutral. If the cap screws are loosened 3/4 turn it will go > into neutral. > > What have we done wrong? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Thu Aug 4 01:53:35 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 09:53:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] hardtop Message-ID: Hi Listers, I am finishing my hardtop with the sealings. Unfortunatly the pics of the original seals do not help much as that was a complete mess. I bought everything that I found usefull by article name (lol) from AH4H, but now I am a bit confused. Can anybody help me? Items I have: - special profile seal - this will go aroung the bottom edge of the alloys - "u profile" textile covered seal - afaik this wil go in the lip of the alloys inside - two rolls of 1mm thin, approx 30mm wide plain rubber strip. One 87" and one 45" long - ??? - 2 self adhesive sponge-like rubber pads - ??? - finaly an app. 1m long 20mm wide, 4mm thickrubber strip. This has a part number (HD4206) and is called "Seal strip - hood rail (screentop) - ??? Thanks in advance: Gergo From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Aug 4 01:57:05 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2011 09:57:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] How long will we have gas? was Original Unrestored 100M In-Reply-To: <608785A9D3C340DEAD465F7C79B898AE@GregPC> References: <1279731455.10127.1312213497256.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><65AECDFF-A593-4E96-98C7-B7AB14D2CA16@gmail.com> <608785A9D3C340DEAD465F7C79B898AE@GregPC> Message-ID: <4E3A50D1.1020209@chello.nl> Funny to hear concerns about mileage from Yanks. Most cars I saw in the US were real gas guzzlers, i.e. trucks. Not only in rural areas but also in town. In Europe the modern average small family car will easily do around 40miles or more to the US gallon, very small cars like the Daihatsu Cuore or Suzuki Alto can do around 50mls/USgallon. Compare that to a US gas guzzler which will struggle to do better than 20 mls/US gallon. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From jhomonek at mindspring.com Thu Aug 4 05:16:03 2011 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John Homonek) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 07:16:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004501cc5297$e5aa62f0$b0ff28d0$@com> Gergo, Contact Bill Bolton for your hardtop parts and questions. He is an expert. He is at 541.895.5576. John E. Homonek II -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healey Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2011 3:54 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] hardtop Hi Listers, I am finishing my hardtop with the sealings. Unfortunatly the pics of the original seals do not help much as that was a complete mess. I bought everything that I found usefull by article name (lol) from AH4H, but now I am a bit confused. Can anybody help me? Items I have: - special profile seal - this will go aroung the bottom edge of the alloys - "u profile" textile covered seal - afaik this wil go in the lip of the alloys inside - two rolls of 1mm thin, approx 30mm wide plain rubber strip. One 87" and one 45" long - ??? - 2 self adhesive sponge-like rubber pads - ??? - finaly an app. 1m long 20mm wide, 4mm thickrubber strip. This has a part number (HD4206) and is called "Seal strip - hood rail (screentop) - ??? Thanks in advance: Gergo _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jhomonek at mindspring.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Aug 4 06:37:04 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 06:37:04 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: John.. something is cockeyed and tightening makes it worse. Was it dropped? Best case is that the Bellville washers are too thick or not centered. No end thrust on main shaft. Does it still turn or only that the selector rods are binding? Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Morrison Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 10:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Transmission rebuild I have a BN7/BT7 transmission that has been taken apart and is now reassembled. Problem: When the bell housing is tightened up the trans won't go into neutral. If the cap screws are loosened 3/4 turn it will go into neutral. What have we done wrong? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From bengaard at 850r.dk Thu Aug 4 09:15:27 2011 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 17:15:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS In-Reply-To: <1312428838.62395.YahooMailClassic@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1312428838.62395.YahooMailClassic@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Kent Car Collection doesnt have the car in stock, as they write the car is in USA. The car is for sale and in stock at http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/ together with other restorable AH4s. Niels -----Oprindelig meddelelse----- From: Bert Van Brande Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2011 5:33 AM To: healeylist ; Bob Spidell Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 FS This same car is for sale on ebay too: 220819423743 I emailed Kentcarcollection, the ebay listing might be a scam. b. --- On Wed, 8/3/11, Bob Spidell wrote: > From: Bob Spidell > Subject: [Healeys] 100 FS > To: "healeylist" > Date: Wednesday, August 3, 2011, 4:05 PM > Interesting (to me, at least) to > contrast this with the 100M on eBay: > > http://www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=742 > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell > San Jose, CA > bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bengaard at 850r.dk From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Thu Aug 4 09:40:22 2011 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 10:40:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Enclosed Trailex FS Message-ID: <005c01cc52bc$d2da4170$788ec450$@tx.rr.com> I happened across an enclosed 2001 Trailex for sale when I was looking for an open Trailex. If of interest to anyone on the list, here is the information: " The trailer was built in 2001. I will be glad to send you pictures tomorrow if you are interested. You can go to the Trailex web site and look at the enclosed car trailers for lots of pictures. My trailer is 20 feet 9 inches from tail to the tip of the tongue. It is white with a double door side access. And small access doors on either side of the nose. It has below the floor storage, two tire racks, electric winch inside to pull the car in and a heavy duty electric tongue jack. There is also an aluminum dolly for the tongue so you can move the trailer around by hand. The trailer is in perfect condition and has been kept inside. There are no cracks in the frame or anywhere - it is like new." NFI. I'll pass on the seller's email to anyone that is truly interested. He is asking $13,000. Best regards, Jim Hockert From gbrierton at hotmail.com Thu Aug 4 10:00:43 2011 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 12:00:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2 classics Message-ID: Be sure to watch from the beginning, where she gives us her age...and the carbs age GaryB http://video.nytimes.com/video/2011/07/08/automobiles/collectibles/1000000008 95665/two-classics-one-car.html From derek.c.job at gmail.com Thu Aug 4 10:25:20 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 18:25:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 2 classics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brilliant! - Amazing lady, what a star. Bright as a button at 101 and a petrolhead as well! Derek On Thu, Aug 4, 2011 at 6:00 PM, gary brierton wrote: > Be sure to watch from the beginning, where she gives us her age...and the > carb s age > GaryB > > > http://video.nytimes.com/video/2011/07/08/automobiles/collectibles/1000000008 > 95665/two-classics-one-car.html > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From scvc70 at epix.net Thu Aug 4 10:38:18 2011 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 12:38:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Timing chain tensioner question References: <1312415585.17205.YahooMailClassic@web36704.mail.mud.yahoo.com><004f01cc523f$0d2fb770$278f2650$@net> <98F29E5B15FE463CB43DEDA355611FAE@GregPC> Message-ID: <86EA1416E14F41F3B1351D3F1D1217F2@valuedea617bbe> Some time ago I posted a question about the necessity of the tensioner, as my engine rebuilder found it impossible to get the sprocket on the shaft with the tensioner installed. His opinion was that it wasn't necessary, based on his experience with the old 6-cylinder Chevy engine that was the basis for the 100 engine, so my engine went together without it. Since the rest of the car still isn't finished and we haven't test-run the engine yet, I can't give any further report------- Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich Chrysler" ; "'Bert Van Brande'" ; "'List Healey'" Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 10:13 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Timing chain tensioner question >I agree with Rich, although when I took my 100 motor apart I discovered the >same thing, tensioner missing, no apparant bad sounds or ill effects, but a >new one should make timing more precise, reduce wear on the chain, reduce >noise, and last a good long time. > > I think there has been an issue with either the new cam sprocket not being > machined deep enough or the new tensioners being too thick? So might > check with a Healey specialist who has an idea of what they are selling > (vs. the "big box" LBC retailers) when sourcing the parts. > > Greg Lemon From stephen.j.cuss at btinternet.com Thu Aug 4 10:51:05 2011 From: stephen.j.cuss at btinternet.com (STEPHEN CUSS) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 17:51:05 +0100 (BST) Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration Message-ID: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Hi everyone, just putting finishing touches to re-build, but am not clear how hood frame should work as mine appears bent in several places has anyone got some good photos of hood in both down and up positions. I need this as I need to mount my seat belts and do not want to find I have put the mounts in the wrong place. Thanks for all the help with this matter. Stephen From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu Aug 4 10:55:20 2011 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 12:55:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2 classics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That should be the litmus test for older drivers: can you change the oil and the spark plugs? - tom On Thu, Aug 4, 2011 at 12:00 PM, gary brierton wrote: > Be sure to watch from the beginning, where she gives us her age...and the > carb s age > GaryB > > > http://video.nytimes.com/video/2011/07/08/automobiles/collectibles/1000000008 > 95665/two-classics-one-car.html > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 4 12:41:33 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 14:41:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration In-Reply-To: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002f01cc52d6$239e2ef0$6ada8cd0$@net> Stephen et al, The 3rd series of hood bows on the Hundred that featured the elongated obtuse angle slotted mounting arm for better stowage when folded, also featured a pair of small holes per each side on the rear most hood iron that accepted a pair of screws that entered from inside the car, piercing to anchor the webbing straps. Please note that the 3 mounting holes per side of the car did not change position throughout the production of the Hundred. Listers, this is also being forwarded to John Sims for posting. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STEPHEN CUSS Sent: 2011-08-04 12:51 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration Hi everyone, just putting finishing touches to re-build, but am not clear how hood frame should work as mine appears bent in several places has anyone got some good photos of hood in both down and up positions. I need this as I need to mount my seat belts and do not want to find I have put the mounts in the wrong place. Thanks for all the help with this matter. Stephen _______________________________________________ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Scan49.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Scan46.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Interior 0010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of work pics 2 011.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100 Details 0039.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of PC170035.JPG] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 4 12:45:36 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 14:45:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration References: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003301cc52d6$b31b6de0$195249a0$@net> Stephen et al, The 3rd series of hood bows on the Hundred that featured the elongated obtuse angle slotted mounting arm for better stowage when folded, also featured a pair of small holes per each side on the rear most hood iron that accepted a pair of screws that entered from inside the car, piercing to anchor the webbing straps. Please note that the 3 mounting holes per side of the car did not change position throughout the production of the Hundred. Listers, this is also being forwarded to John Sims for posting. Rich Hi everyone, just putting finishing touches to re-build, but am not clear how hood frame should work as mine appears bent in several places has anyone got some good photos of hood in both down and up positions. I need this as I need to mount my seat belts and do not want to find I have put the mounts in the wrong place. Thanks for all the help with this matter. Stephen _______________________________________________ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of work pics 2 011.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100 Details 0039.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Scan47.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Scan49.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Interior 0010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Scan46.jpg] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 4 12:49:05 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 14:49:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration References: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003701cc52d7$2fbeee30$8f3cca90$@net> Stephen, There are 3 slightly different hood bows within the range of the BN1. The first had simple pivot points where the arms connect to the anchor plates. The second had somewhat elongated slots in the one pair of irons so they could slide and pivot more freely. The third has that slot in the arms opened up into about a 120 degree L shape so the top assembly could slot down and recess back further aft to allow better clearance between folded assembly and the seat backs. Yours will likely be the second series though possibly the 3rd. It's not clear when one was superseded by the other. Here are some pictures showing the second series with the small slot. This is from a July 13/54 BN1. Note also both the first series and this series uses the single screw per side with trim washer that enters in through the top material right on the rear dart seam, pierces through the grey webbing strap inside and anchors into the hole in the rearmost hood bow. Pictures of the 3rd series to follow. Listers please note: I am sending this all to John Sims in case he wishes to post this with pictures to his site, so please don't all ask me for "pictures please" Rich Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration Hi everyone, just putting finishing touches to re-build, but am not clear how hood frame should work as mine appears bent in several places has anyone got some good photos of hood in both down and up positions. I need this as I need to mount my seat belts and do not want to find I have put the mounts in the wrong place. Thanks for all the help with this matter. Stephen _______________________________________________ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-302.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-267.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-275.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-276.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-277.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-285.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-293.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-298.jpg] From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Thu Aug 4 13:42:09 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 21:42:09 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Many thanks for the Help folks! Maybe I am too dumb, but things are still not clear, even after checking all Your pics around the sealings. Ok, here how I see the things. We have 3 parts of the hardtop: - rear part, which sits on the cockpit moulding - front part, which sits on the windscreen frame - the two side parts above and around the windows What kind of rubbers and what sequence to use there. Unfortunatly the pics I have looked at today are not using the same pattern. My "original" item has rubers which I dont see on the pics. Soo here is my version soo far: - rear part. the two thick pads go to the are there the retaining stick is located (corner). Plain rubber glued on the alloy between the two pads. The spec. profile (27H9597) is glued on the top of the plain rubber between the pads. U profile finisher goes on the inner edge of the alloy. - front part: 27H9597 (?) glued on the alloy, U profile finisher on the inner edge. Two small thin plain rubber stripes glued on each corner to protect pillars from scratching. - Side part: same as front. Or? Do I got it wrong? Gergo - side part: same as front. From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Aug 4 15:49:41 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2011 17:49:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration In-Reply-To: <003701cc52d7$2fbeee30$8f3cca90$@net> References: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <003701cc52d7$2fbeee30$8f3cca90$@net> Message-ID: <00dd01cc52f0$6b717c90$425475b0$@verizon.net> Posted on the Body section of the Technical page. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2011 2:49 PM To: 'Rich Chrysler'; 'STEPHEN CUSS'; healeys at autox.team.net Cc: ahbn6 at verizon.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration Stephen, There are 3 slightly different hood bows within the range of the BN1. The first had simple pivot points where the arms connect to the anchor plates. The second had somewhat elongated slots in the one pair of irons so they could slide and pivot more freely. The third has that slot in the arms opened up into about a 120 degree L shape so the top assembly could slot down and recess back further aft to allow better clearance between folded assembly and the seat backs. Yours will likely be the second series though possibly the 3rd. It's not clear when one was superseded by the other. Here are some pictures showing the second series with the small slot. This is from a July 13/54 BN1. Note also both the first series and this series uses the single screw per side with trim washer that enters in through the top material right on the rear dart seam, pierces through the grey webbing strap inside and anchors into the hole in the rearmost hood bow. Pictures of the 3rd series to follow. Listers please note: I am sending this all to John Sims in case he wishes to post this with pictures to his site, so please don't all ask me for "pictures please" From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Aug 4 15:49:59 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2011 17:49:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration In-Reply-To: <002f01cc52d6$239e2ef0$6ada8cd0$@net> References: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <002f01cc52d6$239e2ef0$6ada8cd0$@net> Message-ID: <00de01cc52f0$75b55af0$612010d0$@verizon.net> Posted on the Body section of the Technical page. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2011 2:42 PM To: 'STEPHEN CUSS'; healeys at autox.team.net Cc: ahbn6 at verizon.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration Stephen et al, The 3rd series of hood bows on the Hundred that featured the elongated obtuse angle slotted mounting arm for better stowage when folded, also featured a pair of small holes per each side on the rear most hood iron that accepted a pair of screws that entered from inside the car, piercing to anchor the webbing straps. Please note that the 3 mounting holes per side of the car did not change position throughout the production of the Hundred. Listers, this is also being forwarded to John Sims for posting. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STEPHEN CUSS Sent: 2011-08-04 12:51 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration Hi everyone, just putting finishing touches to re-build, but am not clear how hood frame should work as mine appears bent in several places has anyone got some good photos of hood in both down and up positions. I need this as I need to mount my seat belts and do not want to find I have put the mounts in the wrong place. Thanks for all the help with this matter. Stephen _______________________________________________ From cleona44 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 4 20:18:29 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 22:18:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration In-Reply-To: <00de01cc52f0$75b55af0$612010d0$@verizon.net> References: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com>, <002f01cc52d6$239e2ef0$6ada8cd0$@net>, <00de01cc52f0$75b55af0$612010d0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: John - thanks for posting the articles and photos. Rich, as always, a great job of documentation and of sharing your commentary and photos. It appears that the paint on the hood bows is a slighty different shade of gray on the two cars. Am I mistaken? but if it is the same? what is the source? Also Rich would you happen to have the same type of documentation for the Longbridge hood and hood bow setup? I am currently reviewing what is presented for the Longbridge in the 2011 Concours Guide and my Longbridge hood, bows and webbing are not consistent with the Guide. Do you think there could be possible that several series exist for the Longbridge , as is documented for the BN1 Thank you for your assistance and insight - jim lesher > From: ahbn6 at verizon.net > To: richchrysler at quickclic.net; stephen.j.cuss at btinternet.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 17:49:59 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration > > Posted on the Body section of the Technical page. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rich Chrysler [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] > Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2011 2:42 PM > To: 'STEPHEN CUSS'; healeys at autox.team.net > Cc: ahbn6 at verizon.net > Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration > > Stephen et al, > > The 3rd series of hood bows on the Hundred that featured the elongated > obtuse angle slotted mounting arm for better stowage when folded, also > featured a pair of small holes per each side on the rear most hood iron that > accepted a pair of screws that entered from inside the car, piercing to > anchor the webbing straps. > > Please note that the 3 mounting holes per side of the car did not change > position throughout the production of the Hundred. > > Listers, this is also being forwarded to John Sims for posting. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of STEPHEN CUSS > Sent: 2011-08-04 12:51 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration > > Hi everyone, just putting finishing touches to re-build, but am not clear > how hood frame should work as mine appears bent in several places has anyone > got some good photos of hood in both down and up positions. I need this as I > need to mount my seat belts and do not want to find I have put the mounts in > the wrong place. Thanks for all the help with this matter. Stephen > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 4 20:35:09 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 22:35:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration In-Reply-To: References: <1312476665.79418.YahooMailNeo@web87003.mail.ird.yahoo.com>, <002f01cc52d6$239e2ef0$6ada8cd0$@net>, <00de01cc52f0$75b55af0$612010d0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <000301cc5318$4b708e90$e251abb0$@net> Jim, The paint on the Florida Green BN2 showing the 3rd series of Hundred top bows is a somewhat darker shade of gray. The colour of the top bows on the BN1 with the orange/red interior is an exact match for what was on the car. It's a custom mix my painter developed and has used on all our projects in the last 6 years or so. I don't have any exemplary pictures or information about the early BN4 but surely the exhaustive information Peter Svilans and others have sent into the Guidelines should be sufficient. I don't doubt for a moment that there could likely have been small variances in the early BN4 top arrangements as things evolved. Similarly the first of the 6 cylinder side screens changed after only 50 cars. Rich From: Jim Lesher [mailto:cleona44 at hotmail.com] Sent: 2011-08-04 10:18 To: john sims; rich chrysler; stephen.j.cuss at btinternet.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN1 Hood configuration John - thanks for posting the articles and photos. Rich, as always, a great job of documentation and of sharing your commentary and photos. It appears that the paint on the hood bows is a slighty different shade of gray on the two cars. Am I mistaken? but if it is the same? what is the source? Also Rich would you happen to have the same type of documentation for the Longbridge hood and hood bow setup? I am currently reviewing what is presented for the Longbridge in the 2011 Concours Guide and my Longbridge hood, bows and webbing are not consistent with the Guide. Do you think there could be possible that several series exist for the Longbridge , as is documented for the BN1 Thank you for your assistance and insight - jim lesher From charliebt7 at gmail.com Thu Aug 4 20:32:00 2011 From: charliebt7 at gmail.com (Charlie O'Connors) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 21:32:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Help for a Wounded Warrior Message-ID: Hey everyone, I need your help. I have one of the best jobs in the world. Every day I get to help our Wounded Warriors who have been injured or have become ill while fighting for our country. I currently have a Wounded Warrior who was seriously injured by an IED explosion in Afghanistan only a month ago. This young man is married with 4 small children (one is a special needs child). Following the incident that resulted in his injuries, he was medivaced to Brooke Army Medical Center here in San Antonio. The young man is doing well considering his injuries, but every day he and his wife have to examine what the future holds for them. His original duty station is in Seattle, Washington. But because of his injuries he is being transferred to San Antonio. Something that I am trying to assist him with is moving his 1965 Mustang (that he has lovingly restored) from Seattle to San Antonio. I have contacted several auto haulers and they have given me discounts on their normal shipping rates. But I am trying to do better. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get this hero's Mustang from Seattle to San Antonio with little or no expense to a fellow classic car enthusiast? Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. Charlie O'Connors San Antonio, Texas From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Aug 4 22:06:58 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 21:06:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Help for a Wounded Warrior In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: contact a local TV news show to see if they will do a story and get people to donate money to help with the move. will the military help out? On Thu, Aug 4, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Charlie O'Connors wrote: > Hey everyone, > > > > I need your help. I have one of the best jobs in the world. Every day I > get to help our Wounded Warriors who have been injured or have become ill > while fighting for our country. I currently have a Wounded Warrior who was > seriously injured by an IED explosion in Afghanistan only a month ago. > This > young man is married with 4 small children (one is a special needs > child). Following > the incident that resulted in his injuries, he was medivaced to Brooke Army > Medical Center here in San Antonio. The young man is doing well > considering > his injuries, but every day he and his wife have to examine what the future > holds for them. His original duty station is in Seattle, Washington. But > because of his injuries he is being transferred to San Antonio. > > > > Something that I am trying to assist him with is moving his 1965 Mustang > (that he has lovingly restored) from Seattle to San Antonio. I have > contacted several auto haulers and they have given me discounts on their > normal shipping rates. But I am trying to do better. Does anyone have any > suggestions on how I can get this hero's Mustang from Seattle to San > Antonio > with little or no expense to a fellow classic car enthusiast? > > > > Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. > > > > Charlie O'Connors > > San Antonio, Texas > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From gmandas at yahoo.com Thu Aug 4 22:31:51 2011 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 00:31:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Help for a Wounded Warrior In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Open a paypal account and I'll donate to the cause. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Aug 4, 2011, at 10:32 PM, "Charlie O'Connors" wrote: > Hey everyone, > > > > I need your help. I have one of the best jobs in the world. Every day I > get to help our Wounded Warriors who have been injured or have become ill > while fighting for our country. I currently have a Wounded Warrior who was > seriously injured by an IED explosion in Afghanistan only a month ago. This > young man is married with 4 small children (one is a special needs > child). Following > the incident that resulted in his injuries, he was medivaced to Brooke Army > Medical Center here in San Antonio. The young man is doing well considering > his injuries, but every day he and his wife have to examine what the future > holds for them. His original duty station is in Seattle, Washington. But > because of his injuries he is being transferred to San Antonio. > > > > Something that I am trying to assist him with is moving his 1965 Mustang > (that he has lovingly restored) from Seattle to San Antonio. I have > contacted several auto haulers and they have given me discounts on their > normal shipping rates. But I am trying to do better. Does anyone have any > suggestions on how I can get this hero's Mustang from Seattle to San Antonio > with little or no expense to a fellow classic car enthusiast? > > > > Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. > > > > Charlie O'Connors > > San Antonio, Texas > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From kaynmike.bham at juno.com Thu Aug 4 22:47:10 2011 From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 04:47:10 GMT Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Electricals Message-ID: <20110804.214710.1973.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Last night the right "blinker" went dark while the left worked fine. I figured I'd pop the lenses off the front and rear park/stop/run lights, clean the contacts and -poof- troubles gone. No. Tonight the other side went dark too. I was sitting in the car, motor off but key in the "on" position and I (I think) hear that "tung" sound coming fron the scary box that controls all the electrical that perches on the front left inner fender When I turn on one or the other of the "blinker" lights. After all this time (car has been on the road 9 or 10 years since a complete restoration that included a new wiring harness, etc..) are the gods of Lucas finally caught up to me? Must I now pay for my carefree attitude when asked by others- "Naw I've never had a moments problem with the electricals!!" Says I Any ideas?? Mike Gougeon From CAWS52803 at aol.com Fri Aug 5 06:54:28 2011 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 08:54:28 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Help for a Wounded Warrior Message-ID: <9d74b.499d8719.3b6d4204@aol.com> I have forwarded your email to an old college buddy who is a Marine Vet and lives in the San Antonio area. Not a car guy, but I know he makes a point of visiting fallen fellow warriors at the Vet's Hospital. Never know who might be able to help! Rudy Streng Lenoir, NC From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Aug 5 07:54:33 2011 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2011 09:54:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Electricals In-Reply-To: <20110804.214710.1973.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110804.214710.1973.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <8CE218E56BB2276-3EEC-4BAD@webmail-d159.sysops.aol.com> Mike Is it only the turn signal that is dead or are the parking lights also dead? Check the condition and tightness of the black ground wire attached to the mysterious box (relay) that you mentioned. It is a loop connector with a 10/32 screw into the inner fender. This ground is important to the front light operation. It would be unusual for the turn signals to drop of one after the other if the problem was in the relay internals. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Aug 5, 2011 12:47 am Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Electricals Last night the right "blinker" went dark while the left worked fine. I figured 'd pop the lenses off the front and rear park/stop/run lights, clean the ontacts and -poof- troubles gone. No. Tonight the other side went dark too. I as sitting in the car, motor off but key in the "on" position and I (I think) ear that "tung" sound coming fron the scary box that controls all the lectrical that perches on the front left inner fender When I turn on one or he other of the "blinker" lights. After all this time (car has been on the oad 9 or 10 years since a complete restoration that included a new wiring arness, etc..) are the gods of Lucas finally caught up to me? Must I now pay or my carefree attitude when asked by others- "Naw I've never had a moments roblem with the electricals!!" Says I ny ideas?? ike Gougeon From bluehealey at gmail.com Fri Aug 5 08:19:40 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 15:19:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sender Unit Message-ID: Team. The tank sender unit in my BN4 is one of those Taiwanese pattern jobs. It came with a rubber gasket that isn't fuel proof, so guess what happened when I brimmed the tank for the first time? Doh! The outside dimension of the casing was too big for the tank opening and had to be judiciously filed on the corners to gain relief, and the screw holes aren't on a consistent spacing and had to be slightly enlarged to allow all six screws into the tank ring. Apart from those variations the nicely wound rheostat and double wiper arms look to be well engineered and the variable resistance is smooth throughout the range. My real beef however is that the resistance range of the sender is from zero (empty) to 100 Ohms (Full). That is a real bear as I went to a lot of trouble to make one of these calibration devices: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_06.htm which assumes a 0 to 70 Ohm operating range, and then set up my gauge to be accurate at each of the quarters. What should I do next? Re-calibrate the gauge to match the 100 Ohm sender. Search for unobtainable original sender units, even malfunctioning ones, and try to effect repairs. Rely on a wooden dowel dip stick? Any other suggestion? Thanks. _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Aug 5 08:26:09 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 00:26:09 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Col Dodds Message-ID: <908332D5-0C66-4F6D-BE79-820735C0C41C@gmail.com> I am very sad. A very close friend's daughter was killed in a car accident this morning at Kellyville. When the f#%ck will the NSW RTA realise that driver education saves lives? And #%^|king speed cameras just raise money???? How much did the NSW RTA spend on buying speed cameras last year? How much did they spend on young children driving courses? F&:$& you RTA. The blood is on your hands. Allegedly Catheine was killed by an unlicensed driver, in an unregistered car. YeH. Alledgedly . Where did the RTA train this clown? Without a licence????? Unregistered car?????? Allegedly. How did that happen? Tell me about your speed cameras and how they protect our children you fuckwits!! Tell me how you RTA clowns. Just venting guys. Why should one of us lose our daughter? Please, someone forward this to Ed, or the Sprite list. Col Dodds and his wife Carol, and Carly & Christopher need to know we love them Chris Sent from my iPhone From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Aug 5 08:34:30 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 10:34:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sender Unit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01cc537c$c9a07cd0$5ce17670$@rr.com> Allen, the 0 to 70 ohms range given at the mgaguru site is for an MG Jaeger gauge. The Smiths gauge for BJ8s, and I assume also for BN4s, ranges from 0 to 90 ohms plus or minus. You should recalibrate your gauge after modifying the test rig with the correct resistors. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Bromfield Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 10:20 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sender Unit Team. The tank sender unit in my BN4 is one of those Taiwanese pattern jobs. It came with a rubber gasket that isn't fuel proof, so guess what happened when I brimmed the tank for the first time? Doh! The outside dimension of the casing was too big for the tank opening and had to be judiciously filed on the corners to gain relief, and the screw holes aren't on a consistent spacing and had to be slightly enlarged to allow all six screws into the tank ring. Apart from those variations the nicely wound rheostat and double wiper arms look to be well engineered and the variable resistance is smooth throughout the range. My real beef however is that the resistance range of the sender is from zero (empty) to 100 Ohms (Full). That is a real bear as I went to a lot of trouble to make one of these calibration devices: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_06.htm which assumes a 0 to 70 Ohm operating range, and then set up my gauge to be accurate at each of the quarters. What should I do next? Re-calibrate the gauge to match the 100 Ohm sender. Search for unobtainable original sender units, even malfunctioning ones, and try to effect repairs. Rely on a wooden dowel dip stick? Any other suggestion? Thanks. _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Aug 5 08:42:53 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 00:42:53 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Col Dodds In-Reply-To: <000e01cc537c$c9a07cd0$5ce17670$@rr.com> References: <000e01cc537c$c9a07cd0$5ce17670$@rr.com> Message-ID: <397A9AB1-51B8-4E45-A86F-10D20B496B60@gmail.com> I am very sad. A very close friend's daughter was killed in a car accident this morning at Kellyville. When the f#%ck will the RTA realise that driver education saves lives? And #%^|king speed cameras just raise money???? How much did the RTA spend on buying speed cameras last year? How much did they spend on young children driving courses? F&:$& you RTA. The blood is on your hands. Allegedly killed by an unlicensed driver, in an unregistered car. YeH. Alledgedly . Where did the RTA train this clown? Without a licence????? Unregistered car?????? Allegedly. How did that happen? Tell me how you RTA clowns. Sent from my iPhone On 06/08/2011, at 12:34 AM, "BJ8 Healeys" wrote: > Allen, the 0 to 70 ohms range given at the mgaguru site is for an MG > Jaeger > gauge. The Smiths gauge for BJ8s, and I assume also for BN4s, > ranges from 0 > to 90 ohms plus or minus. You should recalibrate your gauge after > modifying > the test rig with the correct resistors. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Bromfield > Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 10:20 AM > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sender Unit > > Team. > The tank sender unit in my BN4 is one of those Taiwanese pattern > jobs. It > came with a rubber gasket that isn't fuel proof, so guess what > happened when > I brimmed the tank for the first time? Doh! The outside dimension of > the > casing was too big for the tank opening and had to be judiciously > filed on > the corners to gain relief, and the screw holes aren't on a consistent > spacing and had to be slightly enlarged to allow all six screws into > the > tank ring. Apart from those variations the nicely wound rheostat and > double > wiper arms look to be well engineered and the variable resistance is > smooth > throughout the range. > > My real beef however is that the resistance range of the sender is > from zero > (empty) to 100 Ohms (Full). That is a real bear as I went to a lot of > trouble to make one of these calibration devices: > http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_06.htm > which assumes a 0 to 70 Ohm operating range, and then set up my > gauge to be > accurate at each of the quarters. > > What should I do next? > Re-calibrate the gauge to match the 100 Ohm sender. > Search for unobtainable original sender units, even malfunctioning > ones, and > try to effect repairs. > Rely on a wooden dowel dip stick? > > Any other suggestion? > > Thanks. > _________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) > (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) > (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From bluehealey at gmail.com Fri Aug 5 09:04:01 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 16:04:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sender Unit In-Reply-To: References: <000e01cc537c$c9a07cd0$5ce17670$@rr.com> Message-ID: Dammit! You're right Steve. It's there in the pics before my very eyes. Is 0 to 90 confirmed somewhere in Smiths literature from the time, or is that observed/measured on an original sender unit? Thanks for your prompt response. I'll go get some new resistors. On 5 August 2011 15:34, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > Allen, the 0 to 70 ohms range given at the mgaguru site is for an MG Jaeger > gauge. The Smiths gauge for BJ8s, and I assume also for BN4s, ranges from > 0 > to 90 ohms plus or minus. You should recalibrate your gauge after > modifying > the test rig with the correct resistors. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > -- > _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) -- _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Aug 5 11:29:16 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 13:29:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sender Unit In-Reply-To: References: <000e01cc537c$c9a07cd0$5ce17670$@rr.com> Message-ID: <002001cc5395$33e9e1e0$9bbda5a0$@rr.com> It is what I have measured with the original sending unit from my car, an original sending unit from another BJ8, and a Moss replacement. I assume it would be the same for all 3000 sending units. For better accuracy when I was testing my gauge, I filled the tank to full, then measured the resistance between the green/black wire to the gauge T terminal and ground. I then set up my test rig with the actual resistance measurements accordingly. I did all this after trying the mgaguru procedure. After making the satisfactory adjustments on the test bench, I could never get the gauge to respond correctly in the car. It finally occurred to me to measure actual resistance in my car, rather than using the resistance figure given at the website. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Bromfield Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 11:04 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sender Unit Dammit! You're right Steve. It's there in the pics before my very eyes. Is 0 to 90 confirmed somewhere in Smiths literature from the time, or is that observed/measured on an original sender unit? Thanks for your prompt response. I'll go get some new resistors. From Bob.Engdahl at bnsnet.com Fri Aug 5 11:41:41 2011 From: Bob.Engdahl at bnsnet.com (Bob Engdahl) Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 12:41:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Col Dodds In-Reply-To: <908332D5-0C66-4F6D-BE79-820735C0C41C@gmail.com> References: <908332D5-0C66-4F6D-BE79-820735C0C41C@gmail.com> Message-ID: Chris, You are right on so many levels. Venting helps. I am sorry for your and the Dodd family's loss. Bob Engdahl BNS Network Solutions, Inc. 515-967-7544 bob.engdahl at bnsnet.com ** This email and any attachments are solely for the use of intended recipients. If you are not an intended recipient, and you have received this communication in error, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this information is strictly prohibited. If you have received this in error, please contact the sender and discard this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. ** -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 9:26 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Col Dodds I am very sad. A very close friend's daughter was killed in a car accident this morning at Kellyville. When the f#%ck will the NSW RTA realise that driver education saves lives? And #%^|king speed cameras just raise money???? How much did the NSW RTA spend on buying speed cameras last year? How much did they spend on young children driving courses? F&:$& you RTA. The blood is on your hands. Allegedly Catheine was killed by an unlicensed driver, in an unregistered car. YeH. Alledgedly . Where did the RTA train this clown? Without a licence????? Unregistered car?????? Allegedly. How did that happen? Tell me about your speed cameras and how they protect our children you fuckwits!! Tell me how you RTA clowns. Just venting guys. Why should one of us lose our daughter? Please, someone forward this to Ed, or the Sprite list. Col Dodds and his wife Carol, and Carly & Christopher need to know we love them Chris Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bob.engdahl at bnsnet.com From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Aug 5 16:12:10 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 08:12:10 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Col Dodds In-Reply-To: <908332D5-0C66-4F6D-BE79-820735C0C41C@gmail.com> References: <908332D5-0C66-4F6D-BE79-820735C0C41C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <10F04A9141CC4F84BCB7BE87A387309A@PatrickQuinnPC> Hello Chris That is tragic news. I have never met Colin, nor his family, but that is such terrible news that I really feel for them. Thanks for lettings us know. Best wishes Patrick Ps My sentiments too about speed cameras -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, 6 August 2011 12:26 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Col Dodds I am very sad. A very close friend's daughter was killed in a car accident this morning at Kellyville. When the f#%ck will the NSW RTA realise that driver education saves lives? And #%^|king speed cameras just raise money???? How much did the NSW RTA spend on buying speed cameras last year? How much did they spend on young children driving courses? F&:$& you RTA. The blood is on your hands. Allegedly Catheine was killed by an unlicensed driver, in an unregistered car. YeH. Alledgedly . Where did the RTA train this clown? Without a licence????? Unregistered car?????? Allegedly. How did that happen? Tell me about your speed cameras and how they protect our children you fuckwits!! Tell me how you RTA clowns. Just venting guys. Why should one of us lose our daughter? Please, someone forward this to Ed, or the Sprite list. Col Dodds and his wife Carol, and Carly & Christopher need to know we love them Chris Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From timwarduk at aol.com Sat Aug 6 05:59:34 2011 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 12:59:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Message-ID: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> Hi List Please give me the benefit of your collectives wisdom again. On my BJ8 I have Fulda Y2000 Tyres. They are 185/70R15 89V. Any views as to the idea pressure to set these tyres for speeds up to 80mph. Currently they are 22 psi at the front and 20.5 psi at the back. Your views will be gratefully received. Thanks Tim Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk www.Shuttermagic.co.uk www.kislingburyonline.co.uk [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 6 06:40:42 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 14:40:42 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures In-Reply-To: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> References: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> Message-ID: <4E3D364A.9060803@chello.nl> 22psi is very low. Radial tires run higher pressures than the old diagonal tires. For normal road use start with 2bar/29psi front and rear. If to harsh lower the pressure slightly but not below 25psi. If to soggy/heavy on the steering/vague increase the pressure to a max. of about 35psi. You can play around a bit with different front and rear pressures to induce more or less over-/understeer. The higher the load and/or speed the higher the pressure. There is no optimal tire pressure, it all depends on the circumstances like load, speed, road conditions etc. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 6 07:42:55 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 06:42:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures In-Reply-To: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> References: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> Message-ID: <4E3D44DF.9050108@comcast.net> Good question (one I've pondered for a while). First thing is, are your sure your pressure gauge is accurate? In order to use absolute pressure values, you have to have the gauge calibrated. I have an expensive dial gauge which is very sensitive and has high repeatability, but I believe it reads approx. 3psi low at around 30psi (but I've never had it calibrated). The cheap 'slider' type gauges seem to be more accurate but less sensitive. Also, ambient temperature affects measured pressure greatly--about 0.75psi per 10degF (by my observation only--I haven't checked a chemistry book lately). So, I would ask, at what temperature are you taking your readings? Assuming an accurate gauge, the desirable pressure is (usually) determined by vehicle weight; i.e. heavier cars need more pressure in the tyres. Manufacturers' recommended pressures are based somewhat on weight, and some by mileage and noise considerations (generally, I've found that recommended pressures are 2-3psi higher than the pressure that gives best handling and wear characteristics). IMO, the 'best' pressure is the one that produces the largest sideways contact patch (low pressures will produce higher longitudinal patch, but may be too low for other reasons). The front/rear differential, if any, can affect over/understeer, and is both personal preference and road/track requirements. I watch the tread for wear patterns; if the tyres appear to be wearing more in the center, I reduce pressure a little, and vice versa if they are wearing more on the edges. I've found, overall, that about 30 rear and 31-32 front--allowing for my gauges inaccuracy--gives best handling and wear for my Mustang (recommended is 35psi). I use about the same or slightly lower for my BJ8, depending on how loaded-up the car is (passenger, baggage, etc.). Both these cars understeer a little; the front/rear differential seems to help offset this a bit. I think your pressures are a bit low. Running too low can cause excessive heat buildup, possibly contributing to failure of the tyre. Also, your mileage is probably lower than you could get. The racers probably know this topic better than anybody; hopefully, they'll weigh in. Bob On 8/6/2011 4:59 AM, Tim Ward wrote: > Hi List > > > > Please give me the benefit of your collectives wisdom again. > > > > On my BJ8 I have Fulda Y2000 Tyres. They are 185/70R15 89V. > > > > Any views as to the idea pressure to set these tyres for speeds up to 80mph. > Currently they are 22 psi at the front and 20.5 psi at the back. > > > > Your views will be gratefully received. > > > > Thanks > > > > Tim > > > > > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Aug 6 07:51:17 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 08:51:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures In-Reply-To: <4E3D44DF.9050108@comcast.net> References: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> <4E3D44DF.9050108@comcast.net> Message-ID: <27576A5FCC52479FA250590F63F08346@GregPC> I am in the same ballpark as Kees and Bob, on my leaf sprung rear suspension LBCs I usually run about 32 psi front and 28-30 rear. If you are looking for smooth ride over handling you might want to go a little lower than that, as stated you can experiment and see what you like as far as ride/handling, I think under 25 pounds or so on radials is too low. Greg Lemon From agrossman at pacific.net Sat Aug 6 08:21:10 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 07:21:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] New lister with a Brake Res ? Message-ID: <194CF2044E7643248F92B9F0551BC1F8@AlanPC> Hi, I've been lurking here for about a month since I got my '58 BN4. I feel lucky that the car has such a great list. For me on line support is the best thing since the cellphone in making vintage car ownership stress free. Anyhow, the only thing preventing me from putting some miles on my car is the need to replace the leaking dual master reservoir. Victoria and Moss have them on back order, and I am raring to go. Anyone have any idea where I could find a new res in stock? Thanks, Alan Alan Grossman Willits, CA From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 6 08:34:08 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 07:34:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] New lister with a Brake Res ? In-Reply-To: <194CF2044E7643248F92B9F0551BC1F8@AlanPC> References: <194CF2044E7643248F92B9F0551BC1F8@AlanPC> Message-ID: <4E3D50E0.5070702@comcast.net> Try BCS (britishcarspecialists.com) in Stockton, CA. Service is impeccable (Hi David). Bob On 8/6/2011 7:21 AM, Alan Grossman wrote: > Hi, > I've been lurking here for about a month since I got my '58 BN4. > I feel lucky that the car has such a great list. For me on line support is the > best thing since the cellphone in making vintage car ownership stress free. > > Anyhow, the only thing preventing me from putting some miles on my car is the > need to replace the leaking dual master reservoir. Victoria and Moss have them > on back order, and I am raring to go. Anyone have any idea where I could find > a new res in stock? > > Thanks, Alan > > Alan Grossman > Willits, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 6 08:37:36 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 07:37:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] New lister with a Brake Res ? In-Reply-To: <194CF2044E7643248F92B9F0551BC1F8@AlanPC> References: <194CF2044E7643248F92B9F0551BC1F8@AlanPC> Message-ID: Alan, I am not at the shop today but I am pretty sure we have some on the shelf. Contact me on Monday and I can check. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com On Aug 6, 2011, at 7:21 AM, Alan Grossman wrote: > Hi, > I've been lurking here for about a month since I got my '58 BN4. > I feel lucky that the car has such a great list. For me on line support is the > best thing since the cellphone in making vintage car ownership stress free. > > Anyhow, the only thing preventing me from putting some miles on my car is the > need to replace the leaking dual master reservoir. Victoria and Moss have them > on back order, and I am raring to go. Anyone have any idea where I could find > a new res in stock? > > Thanks, Alan > > Alan Grossman > Willits, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Aug 6 08:57:38 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 10:57:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Electricals In-Reply-To: <20110804.214710.1973.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110804.214710.1973.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <002601cc5449$2f22b010$8d681030$@net> Mike, Pop the cover off the box and clean the points sets with fine emery, double check the air gaps, and you should be good to go for a couple more decades. The servicing of this stop lamp relay box is not covered in the 4 cylinder manuals but is covered very well in the 6 cylinder manuals. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham at juno.com Sent: 2011-08-05 12:47 To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Electricals Last night the right "blinker" went dark while the left worked fine. I figured I'd pop the lenses off the front and rear park/stop/run lights, clean the contacts and -poof- troubles gone. No. Tonight the other side went dark too. I was sitting in the car, motor off but key in the "on" position and I (I think) hear that "tung" sound coming fron the scary box that controls all the electrical that perches on the front left inner fender When I turn on one or the other of the "blinker" lights. After all this time (car has been on the road 9 or 10 years since a complete restoration that included a new wiring harness, etc..) are the gods of Lucas finally caught up to me? Must I now pay for my carefree attitude when asked by others- "Naw I've never had a moments problem with the electricals!!" Says I Any ideas?? Mike Gougeon _______________________________________________ From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Aug 6 09:07:08 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 08:07:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] New lister with a Brake Res ? In-Reply-To: References: <194CF2044E7643248F92B9F0551BC1F8@AlanPC> Message-ID: If its just leaking from the bottom, have you tried replacing the washes and seals? Or do you have some other issue? On Aug 6, 2011 7:42 AM, "David Nock" wrote: > Alan, I am not at the shop today but I am pretty sure we have some on the > shelf. Contact me on Monday and I can check. > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > On Aug 6, 2011, at 7:21 AM, Alan Grossman wrote: > >> Hi, >> I've been lurking here for about a month since I got my '58 BN4. >> I feel lucky that the car has such a great list. For me on line support is > the >> best thing since the cellphone in making vintage car ownership stress free. >> >> Anyhow, the only thing preventing me from putting some miles on my car is > the >> need to replace the leaking dual master reservoir. Victoria and Moss have > them >> on back order, and I am raring to go. Anyone have any idea where I could > find >> a new res in stock? >> >> Thanks, Alan >> >> Alan Grossman >> Willits, CA >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Sat Aug 6 09:39:21 2011 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 10:39:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Message-ID: <001d01cc544f$035c6c40$0a1544c0$@tx.rr.com> Tim: Most race teams rely on tire tread temperatures to set up suspensions and tire pressures. Buy an infra red temperature gun. The guns are inexpensive and provide a great deal of information to the user. The gun that I use is a Mastercool (http://www.mastercool.com/pages/infrared_thermometers.html). There must be similar tools available in the UK. With the gun, use this procedure: Inflate the front tires to five pounds less than the manufacturer's recommended maximum pressure; Inflate the rear tires to two pounds less than the front tires; Take the car out for a spirited drive and note how the handling feels (mushy or sliding?); When you return, check the temperature of the tires at the inside of the tread (about an inch from the edge), middle of the tread and outside of the tread - front and rear (take notes of the readings) Also check the tire pressure to see how much it has increased; Adjust the tire pressures in stages until the temperature is as close to the same as possible across all three measurements. Higher in the center, reduce pressure. Higher on the edges, increase pressure. Rear tires are easier to match temperatures across the tread because of solid rear axle. On the front, caster and camber (not toe so much) can affect temperature differentials. You are not likely to get exact same temperatures across the tread. If, on the front tire, your inside reading on the tread is higher than the outside (or vice versa), look at your camber settings. Repeat this procedure over and over until the car feels right and the temperatures are close to matching up. For toe-in, use .030 to .060 and you will be fine. Every car will be unique, depending on weight of the car, tire type, tire manufacturer and tire size. Too little pressure will cause the sidewalls to flex excessively, resulting in a mushy feel and even some wandering. Too much pressure will cause the tread to lose grip and the car to snap slide without warning when cornering at the limit. Eventually, you will find the sweet spot for your car. Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Aug 6 12:14:44 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 11:14:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy Message-ID: Hey all, Tightening the water temp unit to engine. Nut is tight, but capillary tube wiggles. Is this normal, or do I need to tighten it some more?. I have cut socket. Not sure how much more I can go..... From britishcars at shaw.ca Sat Aug 6 14:16:27 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 13:16:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002e01cc5475$b9392aa0$2bab7fe0$@ca> Does it leak? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 11:15 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy Hey all, Tightening the water temp unit to engine. Nut is tight, but capillary tube wiggles. Is this normal, or do I need to tighten it some more?. I have cut socket. Not sure how much more I can go..... _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 6 14:22:14 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 22:22:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E3DA276.3000208@chello.nl> What about fitting (extra) sealing/fibre washers? Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sat Aug 6 16:02:50 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 15:02:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures In-Reply-To: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> References: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> Message-ID: <859EAE76F377407692B53C58B78F3471@LeonardPCPC> Tim: What is your goal? Ride? Performance? Longevity? My main goal has always been performance and longevity. To attain these, my logic (?) has said that you want maximum rubber to the road. That means full contact and even wear across the tread. Richard Hockert strives for that by using a temperature gun (no prices given). If you don't need to adjust your pressures immediately, you can do the same thing with a tread depth gauge (O/Reiley/Kragen, less than $5.00). Measure your tread depth inner, middle, and outer. Check again in six months. Inner and outer wearing more than middle means low pressure. Middle wearing faster than inner and outer means pressure too high. Adjust to have wear rate even across the tread. Of course, if the inner and outer are wearing at different rates, there are other problems such as mis-alignment, bad shocks, etc. I purchased new 185-70-15 Vredesteins May last year. Tread depth was 10/32 inch across all treads. June this year, at 5,444 miles, tread wear was 9/32 across all treads with the exception of the left rear tire that shows 9/32 inner, 8 1/2 /32 middle and outer (?). Tire pressure is 28 psi. For gymkhana/autocross/hill climb, I increase pressure to about 35 psi. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Ward" To: Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 4:59 AM Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > Hi List > > > > Please give me the benefit of your collectives wisdom again. > > > > On my BJ8 I have Fulda Y2000 Tyres. They are 185/70R15 89V. > > > > Any views as to the idea pressure to set these tyres for speeds up to > 80mph. > Currently they are 22 psi at the front and 20.5 psi at the back. > > > > Your views will be gratefully received. > > > > Thanks > > > > Tim > > > > > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > > > www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk > > www.Shuttermagic.co.uk > > www.kislingburyonline.co.uk > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > image001.jpg] > _______________________________________________ From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Aug 6 16:18:10 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 15:18:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy In-Reply-To: <4E3DA276.3000208@chello.nl> References: <4E3DA276.3000208@chello.nl> Message-ID: not sure that will seat the temp unit. I thought about it. Will crank on the nut a bit more. It does not seem to be x threaded 2011/8/6 Oudesluys > What about fitting (extra) sealing/fibre washers? > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Sat Aug 6 16:59:39 2011 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 18:59:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy In-Reply-To: References: <4E3DA276.3000208@chello.nl> Message-ID: <003e01cc548c$85bfb5b0$913f2110$@mindspring.com> I use hylomar on the threads... -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 6:18 PM To: Oudesluys Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water temp uniy not sure that will seat the temp unit. I thought about it. Will crank on the nut a bit more. It does not seem to be x threaded 2011/8/6 Oudesluys > What about fitting (extra) sealing/fibre washers? > Kees Oudesluijs From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Aug 6 17:23:58 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 16:23:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy In-Reply-To: <000301cc548d$9049f670$b0dde350$@ca> References: <002e01cc5475$b9392aa0$2bab7fe0$@ca> <000301cc548d$9049f670$b0dde350$@ca> Message-ID: Thanks >From some photos I looked at the tube is angled up a bit, as is mine after putting it in the clips. I'll leave it be until I get it started Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write On Aug 6, 2011 4:07 PM, "PG" wrote: > Hi Ira, > > > > Just went out in the garage and checked mine... > > > > The Capillary tube "wiggles" in mine also (at the base). > > > > Paul > > > > From: eyera3 at gmail.com [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] On Behalf Of I Erbs > Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 3:16 PM > To: PG > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water temp uniy > > > > still a couple weeks out from starting it up. > > On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 1:16 PM, PG wrote: > > Does it leak? > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of i erbs > Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 11:15 AM > To: Ahealey help > Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy > > Hey all, > Tightening the water temp unit to engine. Nut is tight, but capillary tube > wiggles. Is this normal, or do I need to tighten it some more?. I have cut > socket. Not sure how much more I can go..... > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) From shop at justbrits.com Sat Aug 6 18:25:04 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 19:25:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Water temp uniy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E3DDB60.5000206@justbrits.com> << I have cut socket. >> You have a hose clamp on the socket, Ira ?? Since you didn't purchase the Right Tool for the Job, the socket does NOT have the strength that the Right Tool does -:) !! From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Aug 6 21:50:52 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 20:50:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable throttle kit Message-ID: Howdy, If you have installed a Throttle cable kit from Cape International or British car Services could you pleae send me some photos of it in place, and any advice on hooking up the pedal end. Thanks -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Aug 7 02:25:49 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 18:25:49 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Col Dodds In-Reply-To: References: <908332D5-0C66-4F6D-BE79-820735C0C41C@gmail.com> Message-ID: Thank you Bob. To be honest, I just totally lost it when I heard. Sorry to all. I just needed to vent. Let me add some Healey related context to my teary email outburst.... Colin Dodds (who runs www.spriteparts.com.au ) uhas been a member of the Sprite club of Australia for pretty close to 40 years. I've known Col and his wife Carol for over 30 years. Anyone who has ever been on a spridget mailing list would know Colin. He has raced spridgets for close to 40 years, and runs what I can only describe as an 'open workshop'. Anyone with a Sprite or Healey can basically turn up, and work on their car at Colins place. And he will give advice, help, supply parts, tools etc. Or he will do it for you. Yea. It's a business. But a seriously old fashioned one. You can participate. Colin (and Carol) are wonderful people. And the absolute irony of losing their daughter to an idiot who couldn't control a car in a straight line on a public road just made both my blood and brain boil. Especially when Colin is one of the the most awesome race drivers it has ever been my priviledge to sit next to at driver training days and track days. And he's a mate. When i was depessed during my divorce, Col was there to help. To snap me out of it. And now he's lost his daughter in the most ironic way possible. And Colin & Carol's only grandchild has lost their Mum. And the Government still installs speed cameras. And the Government still won't mandate advanced driver training courses for young drivers. So most young drivers still get to lose control of their car for the first on a public road. Like what happened 2 days ago. And these idiot drivers have no idea how to correct it. Because our driver education system doesn't teach them how to. No young driver in NSW Australia has to get lessons on a skid pan..... Just on public roads. ..... And thats why they tkill innocent people like Catherine. Sincerely. Chris Sent from my iPhone On 06/08/2011, at 3:41 AM, Bob Engdahl wrote: > Chris, > > You are right on so many levels. Venting helps. > > I am sorry for your and the Dodd family's loss. > > Bob Engdahl > BNS Network Solutions, Inc. > 515-967-7544 > bob.engdahl at bnsnet.com > > ** This email and any attachments are solely for the use of intended > recipients. If you are not an intended recipient, and you have > received this communication in error, any review, dissemination, > distribution or copying of this information is strictly prohibited. > If you have received this in error, please contact the sender and > discard this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. ** > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock > Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 9:26 AM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Col Dodds > > I am very sad. A very close friend's daughter was killed in a car > accident this morning at Kellyville. > When the f#%ck will the NSW RTA realise that driver education saves > lives? And #%^|king speed cameras just raise money???? > How much did the NSW RTA spend on buying speed cameras last year? How > much did they spend on young children driving courses? > F&:$& you RTA. The blood is on your hands. > Allegedly Catheine was killed by an unlicensed driver, in an > unregistered car. YeH. Alledgedly . Where did the RTA train this > clown? Without a licence????? Unregistered car?????? > Allegedly. How did that happen? > Tell me about your speed cameras and how they protect our children you > fuckwits!! > Tell me how you RTA clowns. > Just venting guys. Why should one of us lose our daughter? > Please, someone forward this to Ed, or the Sprite list. > Col Dodds and his wife Carol, and Carly and Christopher From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Sun Aug 7 08:50:24 2011 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 14:50:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] cable throttle kit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075A52A2@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com> I tried the Cape one a few years ago. Don't waste your money. I will send pictures so you can make your own, maybe. I think you would really be better off designing your own for a left hand drive car. The type of headers you have make a difference also to their kit. I continue with the stock linkage without problems. Ken Freese -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 8:51 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] cable throttle kit Howdy, If you have installed a Throttle cable kit from Cape International or British car Services could you pleae send me some photos of it in place, and any advice on hooking up the pedal end. Thanks -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com From warthodson at aol.com Sun Aug 7 09:23:55 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 11:23:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit Message-ID: <8CE232D27C3F19D-968-A5DB@web-mmc-m07.sysops.aol.com> A friend needs to replace his BJ8 fuel tank sending unit, I checked the archives, but I found conflicting information. He recently purchased one from Victoria British, but the resistance wire inside was loosely & inconsistently wound providing erratic &/or no reading. I see that NOS Locators is offering a "New" improved version with dual brushes. They seem to have mixed reviews in the archives, but that may have been for earlier single brush units. Moss also seemed to have mixed reviews. What is the current recommendation for fuel sending units. Also, I noticed that the BJ8 sending unit is apparently different from all earlier 6 cylinder sending units. What is the reason for this? Thanks, Gary Hodson From timwarduk at aol.com Sun Aug 7 10:02:02 2011 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 17:02:02 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures In-Reply-To: <859EAE76F377407692B53C58B78F3471@LeonardPCPC> References: <002001cc5430$50272d90$f07588b0$@com> <859EAE76F377407692B53C58B78F3471@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <002601cc551b$59f7c5f0$0de751d0$@com> Hi List As usual your response to a question was exceptional. I thought that you might be interested in how all the results worked out. Front: Average 29.6 psi with a Range of 25 to 32 Rear: Average 29.5 psi with a Range of 25 to 32. These all seemed to apply to Road cars. For different types of competition the advice is to go as high as 35. I am looking for a comfortable ride, with good tyre wear and better fuel consumption than I have had. For a start I shall increase the pressure to all tyres to 29 psi and see how that feels and works out. Thanks for all your thoughts and input. Tim BJ8 67 Metallic Golden Beige From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Aug 7 10:19:34 2011 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 12:19:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit Message-ID: <20110807.091948.19010.516941@mailpop03.dca.untd.com> Is there a service that refurbishes original Smiths units? TIA. Doug > A friend needs to replace his BJ8 fuel tank sending unit, I checked > the > archives, but I found conflicting information. He recently purchased > one from > Victoria British, but the resistance wire inside was loosely & > inconsistently > wound providing erratic &/or no reading. I see that NOS Locators is > offering a > "New" improved version with dual brushes. They seem to have mixed > reviews in > the archives, but that may have been for earlier single brush units. > Moss also > seemed to have mixed reviews. What is the current recommendation for > fuel > sending units. Also, I noticed that the BJ8 sending unit is > apparently > different from all earlier 6 cylinder sending units. What is the > reason for > this? > Thanks, > Gary Hodson ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Soaring 3000% Sign up for Free to find out what the next 3000% Stock Winner is! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e3ebb25b9c1e4b5d4ast01duc From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Aug 7 11:08:28 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 10:08:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable throttle kit In-Reply-To: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075A52A2@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com> References: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075A52A2@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com> Message-ID: Thanks I converted to hd8 from hd6s and don't have the firewall its, plus my linkage is worn out and sloppy. Bought the bus kit, same as the cape kit. Stock bj8 headers Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR sent from my Droid, please excuse typos and random self corrections because my phone has It's own ideas about what word I meant to write On Aug 7, 2011 7:50 AM, "Freese, Ken" wrote: > I tried the Cape one a few years ago. Don't waste your money. I will send pictures so you can make your own, maybe. I think you would really be better off designing your own for a left hand drive car. The type of headers you have make a difference also to their kit. I continue with the stock linkage without problems. > Ken Freese > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs > Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 8:51 PM > To: Ahealey help > Subject: [Healeys] cable throttle kit > > Howdy, > If you have installed a Throttle cable kit from Cape International or > British car Services could you pleae send me some photos of it in place, and > any advice on hooking up the pedal end. > Thanks > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 7 11:59:22 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 10:59:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit In-Reply-To: <20110807.091948.19010.516941@mailpop03.dca.untd.com> References: <20110807.091948.19010.516941@mailpop03.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105825.02020078@pop.att.yahoo.com> From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 7 12:02:16 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 11:02:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit In-Reply-To: <8CE232D27C3F19D-968-A5DB@web-mmc-m07.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE232D27C3F19D-968-A5DB@web-mmc-m07.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> I have one for a BT7 and while it is very nicely made the resistance range is incorrect. I noticed this a gauge rebuilder confirmed it. I am having an original rebuilt. John At 11:23 AM 8/7/2011 -0400, warthodson at aol.com wrote: >A friend needs to replace his BJ8 fuel tank sending unit.... >I see that NOS Locators is offering a "New" improved version with >dual brushes. They seem to have mixed reviews.... >Gary Hodson From btreen at telus.net Sun Aug 7 12:12:33 2011 From: btreen at telus.net (Bryan Treen) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 11:12:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hardtop Message-ID: Hi: Like Gergo, I too am a bit unsure how the seals go together. I have all the bits from Bill Boulton, and his instruction sheet. But after looking closely at all the photos of installed hardtops I could find, it seems that they differ from what I understand is the correct procedure. Most photos seem to show a seal resting on the rear cowl visible on the OUTSIDE of the Hardtop. The instructions seem to show the seals hidden on the inside of the hardtops aluminum extrusion so that the seals would rest on the cowl with the extrusion sitting around the cowl with no seals visible from the outside. If anyone has experience in installing new seals, I would appreciate your advice before I start gluing. Thanks, Bryan Maybe I am too dumb, but things are still not clear, even after checking all Your pics around the sealings. Ok, here how I see the things. We have 3 parts of the hardtop: - rear part, which sits on the cockpit moulding - front part, which sits on the windscreen frame - the two side parts above and around the windows What kind of rubbers and what sequence to use there. Unfortunatly the pics I have looked at today are not using the same pattern. My "original" item has rubers which I dont see on the pics. Soo here is my version soo far: - rear part. the two thick pads go to the are there the retaining stick is located (corner). Plain rubber glued on the alloy between the two pads. The spec. profile (27H9597) is glued on the top of the plain rubber between the pads. U profile finisher goes on the inner edge of the alloy. - front part: 27H9597 (?) glued on the alloy, U profile finisher on the inner edge. Two small thin plain rubber stripes glued on each corner to protect pillars from scratching. - Side part: same as front. Or? Do I got it wrong? Gergo - side part: same as front. Sent from my iPad From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun Aug 7 13:03:42 2011 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 12:03:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable throttle kit Message-ID: <000f01cc5534$ba29e570$2e7db050$@com> Ira, DMD Australia make a solid-looking kit - scroll to the bottom of this page: http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/components.html -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA, USA BN6 From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Aug 7 13:38:53 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 19:38:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit and NOS Locators In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> John, Be careful of dealings with NOS Locators. I purchased a pair of headlamp rims (repro) that were supposed to fit my MGTF. They didn't.B I later found a set of original Lucas rims. They did. NOS Locators swore theirs were correct. They weren't. I threw them away. Just one person's experience. Yours may vary. Ed Woods From warthodson at aol.com Sun Aug 7 14:11:32 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 16:11:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE235555923442-C9C-25EF7@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> I assume you are referring to a roadster hardtop & not a convertible hardtop. Attached is a drawing of the seals between the rear shroud & the aluminum extrusion on the rear of the hardtop. This drawing is for a BN6 & BN7 only. In theory, the hardtop sits on or is supported by the thick neoprene pads. These pads do not extend all the way around the rear of the hard top. There are two pads & they are only Approximately 6" -8" long and are located near the two hardtop locating pins. On BN6 & BN7 hardtops there is an inside & an outside weather seal (as shown on the attached drawing) that extends all the way around the back of the hardtop & is visible from both the inside & outside. They fill the gap between the shroud & the aluminum hardtop extrusion, but are not intended to support the weight of the top. The BN4, BT7 hardtop is similar, except instead a separate inside & outside seal they only have one seal which is "U" shaped. I believe the outside flap of the "U" is longer than the inside flap of the "U". I also believe that the flaps are visible on the outside & inside of the BN4 & BT7.Also, the parts book does provide some clarity to this. Trying to describe this has convinced me that I would not make it as a technical writer. Yes, I know the drawing was stripped from the list. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bryan Treen To: healeys Sent: Sun, Aug 7, 2011 1:46 pm Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hardtop Hi: Like Gergo, I too am a bit unsure how the seals go together. I have all the its from Bill Boulton, and his instruction sheet. But after looking closely t all the photos of installed hardtops I could find, it seems that they iffer from what I understand is the correct procedure. Most photos seem to how a seal resting on the rear cowl visible on the OUTSIDE of the Hardtop. he instructions seem to show the seals hidden on the inside of the hardtops luminum extrusion so that the seals would rest on the cowl with the extrusion itting around the cowl with no seals visible from the outside. If anyone has experience in installing new seals, I would appreciate your dvice before I start gluing. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Weather Seal Installation 3.doc] From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Aug 7 14:37:59 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 16:37:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit and NOS Locators In-Reply-To: <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20110807163759.QXJH1.448314.root@pamxwww05-z01> I bought a windshield from them It did not fit properly ( I had to stuff rubber bits under it on one side, and it also began to delaminate shortly after. Their response---------my car must have some problem---and they all delaminate sooner of later. Good luck with them. ---- fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: ============= John, Be careful of dealings with NOS Locators. I purchased a pair of headlamp rims (repro) that were supposed to fit my MGTF. They didn't.B I later found a set of original Lucas rims. They did. NOS Locators swore theirs were correct. They weren't. I threw them away. Just one person's experience. Yours may vary. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Sun Aug 7 15:18:27 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 23:18:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hardtop In-Reply-To: <8CE235555923442-C9C-25EF7@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE235555923442-C9C-25EF7@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: After all I came to my solution, which may not be 100% original, but working. Inspecting many pics and comparing to my "original" setup I have found at least 3 different solutions on BN4 hardtops alone. And the seal set I recived from AH4H (Bill Boulton sourced) is yet another type. ??? Make it work, and call it a day. Gergo 2011/8/7 > I assume you are referring to a roadster hardtop & not a convertible > hardtop. > Attached is a drawing of the seals between the rear shroud & the aluminum > extrusion on the rear of the hardtop. This drawing is for a BN6 & BN7 only. > In > theory, the hardtop sits on or is supported by the thick neoprene pads. > These > pads do not extend all the way around the rear of the hard top. There are > two > pads & they are only Approximately 6" -8" long and are located near the two > hardtop locating pins. On BN6 & BN7 hardtops there is an inside & an > outside > weather seal (as shown on the attached drawing) that extends all the way > around the back of the hardtop & is visible from both the inside & outside. > They fill the gap between the shroud & the aluminum hardtop extrusion, but > are > not intended to support the weight of the top. The BN4, BT7 hardtop is > similar, except instead a separate inside & outside seal they only have one > seal which is "U" shaped. I believe the outside flap of the "U" is longer > than > the inside flap of the "U". I also believe that the flaps are visible on > the > outside & inside of the BN4 & BT7.Also, the parts book does provide some > clarity to this. > Trying to describe this has convinced me that I would not make it as a > technical writer. > Yes, I know the drawing was stripped from the list. > Gary Hodson > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bryan Treen > To: healeys > Sent: Sun, Aug 7, 2011 1:46 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hardtop > > > Hi: > Like Gergo, I too am a bit unsure how the seals go together. I have all > the > its from Bill Boulton, and his instruction sheet. But after looking > closely > t all the photos of installed hardtops I could find, it seems that they > iffer from what I understand is the correct procedure. Most photos seem to > how a seal resting on the rear cowl visible on the OUTSIDE of the Hardtop. > he instructions seem to show the seals hidden on the inside of the hardtops > luminum extrusion so that the seals would rest on the cowl with the > extrusion > itting around the cowl with no seals visible from the outside. > If anyone has experience in installing new seals, I would appreciate your > dvice before I start gluing. > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a > name of Weather Seal Installation 3.doc] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Aug 7 16:10:06 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 18:10:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hardtop Fitting Early BN4 In-Reply-To: References: <8CE235555923442-C9C-25EF7@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000601cc554e$c3fc3e80$4bf4bb80$@net> Hello all, I have been studying and viewing a lot of early Longbridge built BN4's and have noted there was no locating socket in the car right behind the doors for the hardtop pins. The separate screw-in sockets that located the tonneau cover support bar was positioned further back on the rear wheel arch, so they aren't the answer. The hood bows were positioned by a sliding track with rollers on the base of the main hood iron, so again, no relation to the positioning of the hardtop when fitted. Late BN4's sharing the same hood bows design with the early BT7 models had a specific steel socket to mount the hood and locate the hardtop pins, but I can find nothing for the early BN4. Does anybody have any clues about this? Rich Chrysler From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sun Aug 7 16:59:37 2011 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 00:59:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Copenhagen Grand Prix for Historic Racing Message-ID: <391F92ED-985C-444E-A1AE-7448BFD1D094@bornet.net> Hi everyone, On my website I just posted photos from the Copenhagen Grand Prix that took place this weekend. I4ve included photos of Danish Healeys visiting the event. If you are interested please click on the following link: http://www.concourshealeys.com/copenhagen-grand-prix-2011/ Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 7 18:23:29 2011 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 19:23:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> Folks, After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. If the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. The rear brakes do not lock up All rubber hoses were replaced. All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with air pressure. The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not return to the full "forward:" position. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ron From cleona44 at hotmail.com Sun Aug 7 18:27:32 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 20:27:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hardtop Fitting Early BN4 In-Reply-To: <000601cc554e$c3fc3e80$4bf4bb80$@net> References: , <8CE235555923442-C9C-25EF7@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com>, , <000601cc554e$c3fc3e80$4bf4bb80$@net> Message-ID: Rich - for my Longbridge built in April 57, as I recall, the hardtop is simply clamped in with the front top and bottom side clamps. I hope this helps with your study - jim lesher > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: pajtamuvek at gmail.com; warthodson at aol.com > Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 18:10:06 -0400 > CC: btreen at telus.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Factory Hardtop Fitting Early BN4 > > Hello all, > > I have been studying and viewing a lot of early Longbridge built BN4's and > have noted there was no locating socket in the car right behind the doors > for the hardtop pins. The separate screw-in sockets that located the tonneau > cover support bar was positioned further back on the rear wheel arch, so > they aren't the answer. The hood bows were positioned by a sliding track > with rollers on the base of the main hood iron, so again, no relation to the > positioning of the hardtop when fitted. > Late BN4's sharing the same hood bows design with the early BT7 models had a > specific steel socket to mount the hood and locate the hardtop pins, but I > can find nothing for the early BN4. > > Does anybody have any clues about this? > > Rich Chrysler > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 7 18:55:44 2011 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 19:55:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit Float? In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <8CE232D27C3F19D-968-A5DB@web-mmc-m07.sysops.aol.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000501cc5565$f43ce0b0$dcb6a210$@net> Speaking of fuel tank sending units, if a unit works perfectly, or "perfect" as defined by something in a British car, but registers empty when installed in a tank full of gas, would one assume that the float has a leak? If so, how would one repair a hole in an aluminum float? Thanks, Ron From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Aug 7 19:06:58 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 18:06:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> Message-ID: Just got an email from a fenders saying Moss had a recall on some master cal. Don't know any more than that. If you have a Moss unit. Contact them. On Aug 7, 2011 5:50 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: > Folks, > > After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. If > the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. > The rear brakes do not lock up > > All rubber hoses were replaced. > All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. > The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with air > pressure. > The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. > > When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not return to > the full "forward:" position. > > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 7 19:29:17 2011 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 20:29:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> Message-ID: <001801cc556a$b01d3420$10579c60$@net> Thanks for the information, but the master cylinder and calibers were rebuild originals. I have read about the issues with the Moss units on British Car Forum. I understand that Moss is no longer selling the master cylinders and has a new source. That said, the rebuild kits for both the clutch and brake master cylinders for this car did come from Moss, but the clutch master cylinder kit is working fine. I will call Moss tomorrow and inquire. Ron From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2011 8:07 PM To: Ron Ray Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild Just got an email from a fenders saying Moss had a recall on some master cal. Don't know any more than that. If you have a Moss unit. Contact them. On Aug 7, 2011 5:50 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: > Folks, > > After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. If > the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. > The rear brakes do not lock up > > All rubber hoses were replaced. > All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. > The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with air > pressure. > The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. > > When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not return to > the full "forward:" position. > > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Aug 7 19:44:49 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 18:44:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: <001801cc556a$b01d3420$10579c60$@net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> <001801cc556a$b01d3420$10579c60$@net> Message-ID: Did you hone the cyl.? Could be out of round/ too big. If not, could have a bur from wear.... On Aug 7, 2011 6:29 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: > Thanks for the information, but the master cylinder and calibers were > rebuild originals. > > I have read about the issues with the Moss units on British Car Forum. I > understand that Moss is no longer selling the master cylinders and has a new > source. That said, the rebuild kits for both the clutch and brake master > cylinders for this car did come from Moss, but the clutch master cylinder > kit is working fine. I will call Moss tomorrow and inquire. > > Ron > > > From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] > Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2011 8:07 PM > To: Ron Ray > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild > > Just got an email from a fenders saying Moss had a recall on some master > cal. Don't know any more than that. If you have a Moss unit. Contact them. > On Aug 7, 2011 5:50 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: >> Folks, >> >> After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. If >> the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. >> The rear brakes do not lock up >> >> All rubber hoses were replaced. >> All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. >> The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with air >> pressure. >> The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. >> >> When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not return > to >> the full "forward:" position. >> >> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. >> >> Thanks >> Ron >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 7 20:19:51 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 19:19:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> Message-ID: <4E3F47C7.9000104@comcast.net> This is a SWAG, but from the description it sounds like a problem with the small seal that closes the line to the reservoir when the brake pedal is pressed. If this seal isn't released when the brakes are released the brake system will remain pressurized. How sure are you that you got this plunger assembly assembled correctly? I think there's a seal, the plunger, a spring and a thing that looks like a thimble with slots cut in it. IIRC, the problem with the 'Classic Gold' M/Cs Moss sells was that the spring-loaded plunger that engages this seal would get cocked in the cylinder, which could cause this problem. Bob On 8/7/2011 5:23 PM, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. If > the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. > The rear brakes do not lock up > > All rubber hoses were replaced. > All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. > The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with air > pressure. > The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. > > When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not return to > the full "forward:" position. > > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks > Ron > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mkgoodman at att.net Sun Aug 7 20:59:11 2011 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 22:59:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts Message-ID: <003101cc5577$280b7350$782259f0$@net> I am getting prepared to go to Encounter in Paradise PA this Wednesday and purchased a Multi-purpose Food Storage Container from Walmart today to house my spare ignition parts and a few other spares. It measures 12.4" in Dia. x 4.13" High and fits quite nicely under the spare tire. It comes with 2 carrying handles which are not necessary and without them it looks like a brake drum under the spokes. It was less than $7.00 so if you are looking for that nook to hide a few necessary spare items this will certainly meet your need. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Aug 7 21:08:32 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 23:08:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit Float? In-Reply-To: <000501cc5565$f43ce0b0$dcb6a210$@net> References: <8CE232D27C3F19D-968-A5DB@web-mmc-m07.sysops.aol.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <000501cc5565$f43ce0b0$dcb6a210$@net> Message-ID: <009001cc5578$74b90220$5e2b0660$@verizon.net> Rather than trying to patch a hole (which may even be too miniscule to find) just go to your local Ford dealer and get their part number COAZ-9202-B. Saves a lot of trouble. They probably won't understand it if you say it is for a Healey but that is their problem! John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Ray Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2011 8:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit Float? Speaking of fuel tank sending units, if a unit works perfectly, or "perfect" as defined by something in a British car, but registers empty when installed in a tank full of gas, would one assume that the float has a leak? If so, how would one repair a hole in an aluminum float? Thanks, Ron From ynotink at msn.com Sun Aug 7 22:24:18 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 04:24:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: <4E3F47C7.9000104@comcast.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com>, <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>, <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net>, <4E3F47C7.9000104@comcast.net> Message-ID: In order for that valve to release properly you need to have about 1/16" clearance between the end of the actuator rod and the master cylinder piston. Bill Lawrence > Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 19:19:51 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild > > This is a SWAG, but from the description it sounds like a problem with the small seal that closes the line to the > reservoir when the brake pedal is pressed. If this seal isn't released when the brakes are released the brake system > will remain pressurized. > > How sure are you that you got this plunger assembly assembled correctly? I think there's a seal, the plunger, a spring > and a thing that looks like a thimble with slots cut in it. > > IIRC, the problem with the 'Classic Gold' M/Cs Moss sells was that the spring-loaded plunger that engages this seal > would get cocked in the cylinder, which could cause this problem. > > Bob > > > On 8/7/2011 5:23 PM, Ron Ray wrote: > > Folks, > > > > After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. If > > the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. > > The rear brakes do not lock up > > > > All rubber hoses were replaced. > > All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. > > The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with air > > pressure. > > The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. > > > > When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not return to > > the full "forward:" position. > > > > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > Ron > > > > > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Aug 7 23:11:07 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 22:11:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts In-Reply-To: <003101cc5577$280b7350$782259f0$@net> References: <003101cc5577$280b7350$782259f0$@net> Message-ID: I cut down a 5 gallon bucket eight or nine years ago and used the lid as a top. Screw with wing nut holds the top down. Fits nicely under the spare. Paid nothing for it as I had several. It is amazing what spares you can put into it. Rich Kahn > From: mkgoodman at att.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 22:59:11 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts > > I am getting prepared to go to Encounter in Paradise PA this Wednesday and > purchased a Multi-purpose Food Storage Container from Walmart today to house > my spare ignition parts and a few other spares. It measures 12.4" in Dia. x > 4.13" High and fits quite nicely under the spare tire. It comes with 2 > carrying handles which are not necessary and without them it looks like a > brake drum under the spokes. It was less than $7.00 so if you are looking > for that nook to hide a few necessary spare items this will certainly meet > your need. > > > > Mark Goodman > > 66 BJ8 35503 > > www.austinhealeyessence.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 7 22:31:40 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 21:31:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit and NOS Locators In-Reply-To: <20110807163759.QXJH1.448314.root@pamxwww05-z01> References: <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <20110807163759.QXJH1.448314.root@pamxwww05-z01> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807212922.020869a8@pop.att.yahoo.com> I have had good experiences with them and their parts. John At 04:37 PM 8/7/2011 -0400, Tom Felts wrote: >I bought a windshield from them It did not fit properly ( I had to >stuff rubber bits under it on one side, and it also began to >delaminate shortly after. Their response---------my car must have >some problem---and they all delaminate sooner of later. >Good luck with them. >---- fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: >============= >John, > >Be careful of dealings with NOS Locators. I purchased a .... >Just one person's experience. Yours may vary. >Ed Woods From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 00:19:52 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 08:19:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> <4E3F47C7.9000104@comcast.net> Message-ID: I agree with Lawrence. If the clearance is non-exsistent ot insuficent, You will see exactly this problem. Been there done that. Gergo 2011/8/8 WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > In order for that valve to release properly you need to have about 1/16" > clearance between the end of the actuator rod and the master cylinder > piston. > > Bill Lawrence > > > Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 19:19:51 -0700 > > From: bspidell at comcast.net > > To: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild > > > > This is a SWAG, but from the description it sounds like a problem with > the > small seal that closes the line to the > > reservoir when the brake pedal is pressed. If this seal isn't released > when > the brakes are released the brake system > > will remain pressurized. > > > > How sure are you that you got this plunger assembly assembled correctly? > I > think there's a seal, the plunger, a spring > > and a thing that looks like a thimble with slots cut in it. > > > > IIRC, the problem with the 'Classic Gold' M/Cs Moss sells was that the > spring-loaded plunger that engages this seal > > would get cocked in the cylinder, which could cause this problem. > > > > Bob > > > > > > On 8/7/2011 5:23 PM, Ron Ray wrote: > > > Folks, > > > > > > After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. > If > > > the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. > > > The rear brakes do not lock up > > > > > > All rubber hoses were replaced. > > > All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. > > > The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with > air > > > pressure. > > > The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. > > > > > > When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not > return > to > > > the full "forward:" position. > > > > > > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Ron > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > ******************************************************************* > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > > > ******************************************************************* > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 00:32:37 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 08:32:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Copenhagen Grand Prix for Historic Racing In-Reply-To: <391F92ED-985C-444E-A1AE-7448BFD1D094@bornet.net> References: <391F92ED-985C-444E-A1AE-7448BFD1D094@bornet.net> Message-ID: Realy pretty machines! Gergo 2011/8/8 Magnus Karlsson > Hi everyone, > > On my website I just posted photos from the Copenhagen Grand Prix that took > place this weekend. I4ve included photos of Danish Healeys visiting the > event. > > If you are interested please click on the following link: > > http://www.concourshealeys.com/copenhagen-grand-prix-2011/ > > > Magnus Karlsson > > www.concourshealeys.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Mon Aug 8 06:09:48 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 07:09:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail Message-ID: Can anyone supply me (off list) a picture of the position of the Spare tire wood triangle, that helps keep the spare tire in place ? I have the piece but i do nt know where to screw it. Thanks Jose Sent from my iPad From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Aug 8 06:41:11 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 05:41:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> Message-ID: <1312807271.75258.YahooMailNeo@web161005.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Ron, You state the piston doesn't return to it's full forward position. Do you rearward position? If so the piston seal hasn't returned to a position that will uncover the compensating port between the reservoir and the M/C. Look for a restriction in the mechanical parts. The return spring may not be strong enough to fully return the piston past the compensating port or the piston may be binding in the bore. Ron Mitchell BN7 MkII ________________________________ From: Ron Ray To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, August 7, 2011 8:23 PM Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild Folks, After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. If the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. The rear brakes do not lock up All rubber hoses were replaced. All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with air pressure. The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not return to the full "forward:" position. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ron _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 07:19:36 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:19:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> Message-ID: Ron - If your caliper pistons have rusted under the chrome surface, the bubbles can bind against rubber piston seals and stick shut. In brake rebuild should involve replacing the pistons with new SS pistons. But then again opening the bleeders and releasing the brakes suggests that your master is sticking in the down position. when this happens, does the brake pedal have more travel than normal before getting pressure? Alan On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:23 AM, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not release. If > the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. > The rear brakes do not lock up > > All rubber hoses were replaced. > All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. > The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned with air > pressure. > The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. > > When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not return > to > the full "forward:" position. > > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 07:23:24 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:23:24 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jose - There are two of these triangular (or more accurately, rhomboid) blocks which one bolts to the front wall of the boot and the other on the lefthand side. There should be two captive nuts welded on the axle side of the boot wall, the block will bolt onto that. If I recall these should be 7/16" nuts. The one that bolts to the front boot wall will have a small piece of flat iron, twisted, with a hole, for the tyre hold down bar to fit through. Alan On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:09 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote: > Can anyone supply me (off list) a picture of the position of the Spare tire > wood triangle, that helps keep the spare tire in place ? > > I have the piece but i do nt know where to screw it. > > Thanks > > Jose > > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Aug 8 07:52:50 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 13:52:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge 100/6 Message-ID: <717149457.385988.1312811570849.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, At what point was the location of the temp gauge capillary bulb changed from the radiator to the head? Did it coincide with the change to the multiport/separate intake manifold? Thanks, Ed Woods From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Aug 8 08:04:59 2011 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 14:04:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Alan: I think you are referring to the later 6 cylinder models, Jose is asking about the BN2 model that has a triangular wood piece covered in vynil the same colour as the interior. It is located inside the right hand side of the car pretty well in line with the opening where the spare tire bag joins the spare tire opening in the chassis. Jose , look through your right rear wheel well, there should be two holes used to locate the screws that hold the wood pieces in place. Jean > Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:23:24 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail > > Jose - > > There are two of these triangular (or more accurately, rhomboid) blocks > which one bolts to the front wall of the boot and the other on the lefthand > side. There should be two captive nuts welded on the axle side of the boot > wall, the block will bolt onto that. If I recall these should be 7/16" > nuts. The one that bolts to the front boot wall will have a small piece of > flat iron, twisted, with a hole, for the tyre hold down bar to fit through. > > Alan > > On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:09 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote: > > > Can anyone supply me (off list) a picture of the position of the Spare tire > > wood triangle, that helps keep the spare tire in place ? > > > > I have the piece but i do nt know where to screw it. > > > > Thanks > > > > Jose > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Aug 8 08:22:13 2011 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 14:22:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Unrestored 100M - Message-ID: List: We now have an idea of the value of an unrestored 100M. The one on E-Bay from last week went unsold at $50000.00, having not met the reserve, that by the way was lowered at some point. Given the state of the global economy, particularly in the last few days with the stockmarkets plummeting everywhere, my opinion is that it's as high as most winvestors would pay. Enthusiasts on the other hand would likely pay even less. Jean From gardner5 at comcast.net Mon Aug 8 08:43:19 2011 From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 14:43:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] volt drop In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1532687300.323205.1312814599089.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Have a 2 volt- drop detected between battery and starter, so cranking is weak.B I'd thought that I'd already eliminated grounding etc. through visual investigation , so I figured it that it was the starter armature and therefore had the starter rebuilt.B Installed the rebuilt starter, and still have a 2 volt-drop.B Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the battery to the starter with a larger diameter.B Any ideas? Joel BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jean Caron" To: "healey nut" , jvvmusme at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 8, 2011 7:04:59 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail Alan: I think you are referring to the later 6 cylinder models, Jose is asking about the BN2 model that has a triangular wood piece covered in vynil the same colour as the interior. It is located inside the right hand side of the car pretty well in line with the opening where the spare tire bag joins the spare tire opening in the chassis. Jose , look through your right rear wheel well, there should be two holes used to locate the screws that hold the wood pieces in place. Jean > Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:23:24 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail > > Jose - > > There are two of these triangular (or more accurately, rhomboid) blocks > which one bolts to the front wall of the boot and the other on the lefthand > side. There should be two captive nuts welded on the axle side of the boot > wall, the block will bolt onto that. If I recall these should be 7/16" > nuts. The one that bolts to the front boot wall will have a small piece of > flat iron, twisted, with a hole, for the tyre hold down bar to fit through. > > Alan > > On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:09 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote: > > > Can anyone supply me (off list) a picture of the position of the Spare tire > > wood triangle, that helps keep the spare tire in place ? > > > > I have the piece but i do nt know where to screw it. > > > > Thanks > > > > Jose > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gardner5 at comcast.net From JPayne at ThorCon.net Mon Aug 8 09:14:15 2011 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 08:14:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com><1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226ED62C39@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> If you don't have the throw/return on your master cylinder right the rod will not return enough to uncover the hole inside the m cyl that allows fluid to flow from/to the reservoir. You adjust the length of throw/return in the pedal box above your feet - the "c" that connects the mcyl rod to the pedal is threaded and can be adjusted. Sounds like you might need to adjust it "out" for a longer throw. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 8 09:24:58 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 08:24:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front disc brakes locking up after rebuild In-Reply-To: <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <1918643633.355172.1312745933933.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000001cc5561$663f39b0$32bdad10$@net> Message-ID: If both the front wheels are staying on it is unlikely that there is a problem in both calipers or caliper hoses. The problem is most likely that the master cylinder piston is sticking in that master cylinder bore. If only one wheel is hanging up then the problem is most likely a caliper or hose. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 7, 2011, at 5:23 PM, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > After rebuilding the hydraulic system the front brakes do not > release. If > the bleed screw is loosened, they do release. > The rear brakes do not lock up > > All rubber hoses were replaced. > All original steel brake lines were clean with air pressure. > The connector valve on the passenger side was removed and cleaned > with air > pressure. > The caliber pistons can be moved by hand when they are off the car. > > When the front brakes lock up, the master cylinder piston does not > return to > the full "forward:" position. > > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 8 09:27:42 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 08:27:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit Float? In-Reply-To: <000501cc5565$f43ce0b0$dcb6a210$@net> References: <8CE232D27C3F19D-968-A5DB@web-mmc-m07.sysops.aol.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20110807105933.02009dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <000501cc5565$f43ce0b0$dcb6a210$@net> Message-ID: Drill a hole in each end of the float to get the gas out of the float. The solder the holes shut. Then put the float in hot water and you will see a small stream of bubbles where the leak is. Remove from the water and solder the leak. Put back in the hot water and re test. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 7, 2011, at 5:55 PM, Ron Ray wrote: > Speaking of fuel tank sending units, if a unit works perfectly, or > "perfect" > as defined by something in a British car, but registers empty when > installed > in a tank full of gas, would one assume that the float has a > leak? If so, > how would one repair a hole in an aluminum float? > > Thanks, > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeyguy at bredband.net Mon Aug 8 09:34:26 2011 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:34:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] volt drop In-Reply-To: <1532687300.323205.1312814599089.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1532687300.323205.1312814599089.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E400202.2090106@bredband.net> Hmmmm,,,, so you have 10 volts at the starter, right? How about checking towards the battery, the point between where you have 12 volts and where you have 10 volts is where the problem is. I don't think you need to replace that long cable, unless it is the wrong size or is broken somewhere of course. Per gardner5 at comcast.net skrev 2011-08-08 16:43: > Have a 2 volt- drop detected between battery and starter, so cranking is > weak.B I'd thought that I'd already eliminated grounding etc. through visual > investigation , so I figured it that it was the starter armature and therefore > had the starter rebuilt.B Installed the rebuilt starter, and still have a 2 > volt-drop.B Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the battery to the > starter with a larger diameter.B Any ideas? > > > > Joel > > BN2 From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 8 09:54:33 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 15:54:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] volt drop In-Reply-To: <1532687300.323205.1312814599089.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1668204955.312369.1312818873951.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: " Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the battery to the starter with a larger diameter" That's a good idea (assuming you're using a copper cable). It's a long run for a battery cable. I think double-ought cable is the largest (or maybe single-ought?). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: gardner5 at comcast.net To: "Jean Caron" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 8, 2011 7:43:19 AM Subject: [Healeys] volt drop Have a 2 volt- drop detected between battery and starter, so cranking is weak.B I'd thought that I'd already eliminated grounding etc. through visual investigation , so I figured it that it was the starter armature and therefore had the starter rebuilt.B Installed the rebuilt starter, and still have a 2 volt-drop.B Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the battery to the starter with a larger diameter.B Any ideas? Joel BN2 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Aug 8 10:04:35 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2011 16:04:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?sending_unit_floats?= Message-ID: <20110808160435.27785.qmail@server278.com> if jb weld does not work, try grinding the end off the float and putting in synthetic wine corks. did mine about 4 years ago and it still works fine. cheap and foolproof. hjim From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Aug 8 10:09:06 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2011 12:09:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge 100/6 In-Reply-To: <717149457.385988.1312811570849.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <717149457.385988.1312811570849.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <00b301cc55e5$805a3910$810eab30$@verizon.net> The temp pickup bulb was moved from the radiator tank header to the thermostat housing at BN6/2030 in July of 58. The multiport intake manifold was engine between October 57 and November 57 This according to Clausager John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 9:53 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge 100/6 List, At what point was the location of the temp gauge capillary bulb changed from the radiator to the head? Did it coincide with the change to the multiport/separate intake manifold? Thanks, Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 8 10:25:33 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 12:25:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge 100/6 In-Reply-To: <717149457.385988.1312811570849.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <717149457.385988.1312811570849.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000001cc55e7$cc548800$64fd9800$@net> Ed, Yes. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net Sent: 2011-08-08 9:53 To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge 100/6 List, At what point was the location of the temp gauge capillary bulb changed from the radiator to the head? Did it coincide with the change to the multiport/separate intake manifold? Thanks, Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Mon Aug 8 11:01:49 2011 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 18:01:49 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop Message-ID: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> Voltage drop is usually associated with high resistance joints rather than the cable itself. Have you checked and cleaned all of the connections to the battery, starter solenoid etc? Dirty or loose connections would give the same symptoms. Kindest Regards Tom Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 > ----- Original Message ----- >> From: gardner5 at comcast.net >> To: "Jean Caron" >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Monday, August 8, 2011 7:43:19 AM >> Subject: [Healeys] volt drop >> >> Have a 2 volt- drop detected between battery and starter, so cranking is >> weak.B I'd thought that I'd already eliminated grounding etc. through >> visual >> investigation , so I figured it that it was the starter armature and >> therefore >> had the starter rebuilt.B Installed the rebuilt starter, and still have a >> 2 >> volt-drop.B Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the battery to >> the >> starter with a larger diameter.B Any ideas? >> >> >> >> Joel >> >> BN2 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 12:05:10 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 11:05:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop In-Reply-To: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> References: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> Message-ID: Battery cables are the exception to the rule that voltage drops are connection issues. Corrosion can grow inside the cables and cause a no start. A 2 volt drop is world class. Spec is no more than 0.3V. Bigger cables can't hurt, but a new cable of the correct gauge should be just fine. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Aug 8, 2011, at 10:01, "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" wrote: > Voltage drop is usually associated with high resistance joints rather than the cable itself. Have you checked and cleaned all of the connections to the battery, starter solenoid etc? Dirty or loose connections would give the same symptoms. > > Kindest Regards > > Tom > Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 > Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 > 705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com > > Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. > Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with > company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 > >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: gardner5 at comcast.net >>> To: "Jean Caron" >>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Sent: Monday, August 8, 2011 7:43:19 AM >>> Subject: [Healeys] volt drop >>> >>> Have a 2 volt- drop detected between battery and starter, so cranking is >>> weak.B I'd thought that I'd already eliminated grounding etc. through visual >>> investigation , so I figured it that it was the starter armature and therefore >>> had the starter rebuilt.B Installed the rebuilt starter, and still have a 2 >>> volt-drop.B Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the battery to the >>> starter with a larger diameter.B Any ideas? >>> >>> >>> >>> Joel >>> >>> BN2 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co. uk > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Mon Aug 8 12:51:00 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 14:51:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop In-Reply-To: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> References: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> Message-ID: <8CE2413400A5734-1A14-25591@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> How are you measuring voltage drop? Are you taking the voltage reading from the solenoid terminal connected directly to the battery to ground or the terminal on the starter to ground? Are you measuring the voltage with or without the starter cranking? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd To: gardner5 Cc: healeys Sent: Mon, Aug 8, 2011 12:23 pm Subject: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop Voltage drop is usually associated with high resistance joints rather than he cable itself. Have you checked and cleaned all of the connections to the attery, starter solenoid etc? Dirty or loose connections would give the ame symptoms. Kindest Regards Tom om McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: gardner5 at comcast.net > To: "Jean Caron" > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, August 8, 2011 7:43:19 AM > Subject: [Healeys] volt drop > > Have a 2 volt- drop detected between battery and starter, so cranking is > weak.B I'd thought that I'd already eliminated grounding etc. through > visual > investigation , so I figured it that it was the starter armature and > therefore > had the starter rebuilt.B Installed the rebuilt starter, and still have a > 2 > volt-drop.B Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the battery to > the > starter with a larger diameter.B Any ideas? > > > > Joel > > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co. uk ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From warthodson at aol.com Mon Aug 8 13:10:18 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 15:10:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] volt drop In-Reply-To: <8CE2413400A5734-1A14-25591@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> References: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> <8CE2413400A5734-1A14-25591@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CE2415F2179298-1A14-25964@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> How are you measuring voltage drop? Are you taking the voltage reading from the solenoid terminal connected directly to the battery to ground or the terminal on the starter to ground? Are you measuring the voltage with or without the starter cranking? Gary Hodson From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 13:45:36 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 12:45:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] volt drop In-Reply-To: <8CE2415F2179298-1A14-25964@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> References: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> <8CE2413400A5734-1A14-25591@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> <8CE2415F2179298-1A14-25964@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: What you described is an available voltage test not a voltage drop test. For a voltage drop one end of the voltmeter at the solenoid the other on the positive battery terminal. Crank the car and observe the voltage reading. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Aug 8, 2011, at 12:10, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > How are you measuring voltage drop? Are you taking the voltage reading from > the solenoid terminal connected directly to the battery to ground or the > terminal on the starter to ground? Are you measuring the voltage with or > without the starter cranking? > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Aug 8 13:46:35 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 20:46:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop In-Reply-To: References: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> Message-ID: <4L54MvJb0DQOFw0t@jharper.demon.co.uk> Joel A larger diameter cable will do no harm and perhaps give the starter a little more 'sparkle' but the original cable to the correct specification with good terminations is quite adequate. 2 volts drop is not that great. Bear in mind that the official test specification for 'our' M45G starter is Torque at 1000 r.p.m.: 15.5 lb.ft with 570 amp at 8.8 terminal voltage Lock Torque 32.5 lb.-ft with 900 amps 6.4 terminal voltage. This with fully charged 115 amp.hr battery at 10-hour rate. So taking the first 1000 r.p.m. as being a typical starting figure we have about 4 volts drop and this with short test leads used on the rig and a good high capacity battery. It is more likely that your battery has an increased internal resistance due to age etc. Before changing anything else I would try an alternative battery. Regards >Battery cables are the exception to the rule that voltage drops are connection >issues. Corrosion can grow inside the cables and cause a no start. >A 2 volt drop is world class. Spec is no more than 0.3V. >Bigger cables can't hurt, but a new cable of the correct gauge should be just >fine. >Rick > >Sent from my iPhone > >On Aug 8, 2011, at 10:01, "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" > wrote: > >> Voltage drop is usually associated with high resistance joints rather than >the cable itself. Have you checked and cleaned all of the connections to the >battery, starter solenoid etc? Dirty or loose connections would give the same >symptoms. >> >> Kindest Regards >> >> Tom >> Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 >> Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 >> 705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com >> >> Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. >> Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with >> company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 >> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: gardner5 at comcast.net >>>> To: "Jean Caron" >>>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >>>> Sent: Monday, August 8, 2011 7:43:19 AM >>>> Subject: [Healeys] volt drop >>>> >>>> Have a 2 volt- drop detected between battery and starter, so cranking is >>>> weak.B I'd thought that I'd already eliminated grounding etc. through >visual >>>> investigation , so I figured it that it was the starter armature and >therefore >>>> had the starter rebuilt.B Installed the rebuilt starter, and still have a >2 >>>> volt-drop.B Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the battery to >the >>>> starter with a larger diameter.B Any ideas? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Joel >>>> >>>> BN2 >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co. >uk >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk -- John Harper From charliebt7 at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 14:24:42 2011 From: charliebt7 at gmail.com (Charlie O'Connors) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 15:24:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Help for a Wounded Warrior In-Reply-To: <9d74b.499d8719.3b6d4204@aol.com> References: <9d74b.499d8719.3b6d4204@aol.com> Message-ID: Fantastic suggestions. Thanks to all. I learned today that there is a provision in DoD regulations that will allow shipment of his car by the government. Charlie O'Connors San Antonio, TX 78201 Sent from My iPhone On Aug 5, 2011, at 7:54 AM, CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: > I have forwarded your email to an old college buddy who is a Marine Vet and lives in the San Antonio area. Not a car guy, but I know he makes a point of visiting fallen fellow warriors at the Vet's Hospital. Never know who might be able to help! > > Rudy Streng > Lenoir, NC From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Aug 8 16:02:37 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 22:02:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] SU Pump Part Needed Message-ID: <962830466.420179.1312840957467.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, Where can I purchase a pedestal for the Type HP S.U. pump in my BN4? I would very much like to rebuild the original. I have a rebuild kit, but the pedestal, frequently damaged on the HP, was not included. Thanks, Ed Woods From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 8 16:15:27 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 18:15:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Drive Begins Message-ID: <1f43a.c2f8428.3b71b9ff@aol.com> Just so all of you know, John Nikas took off this morning from Huntington Beach this morning in a 1953 BN1 on his journey to help Drive Away Cancer. Two weeks ago, this car could barely get out of its own way, now with the help of numerous Healey people, it and John are heading out on a 5800 mile trip from coast to coast to coast. From Huntington Beach to Charlotte and then back to Monterey, with the journey coming to completion on the main stage of the Russo and Steele Car Auction in Monterey, California. To follow his trip, you can go to a Facebook page dedicated to this endeavor: _http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?ref=ts#!/pa ges/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359_ (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?ref=ts#!/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359 ) I know it's a long link, but I don't know how to make them smaller, the page is totally public so you can go there and follow the journey and if you hit the "like" button at the top, you will be notified of updates. The route and timing will be updated there and I reach out to our community to help out whenever they can, if they can. It's fitting that the car itself has its own rust cancer, but with all of the work and love that has gone into "Grace", we are confident she will carry John all the way on his journey. A video of John leaving the Pier will be posted soon on youtube and I will post the link to the video as soon as it's ready. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to contact me and if you can, pass the word to all the clubs along the way and maybe a cheering section can be formed along the side of the road! As of right now, the route is tentatively set as Highway 40 out to the east coast and then 80 back, but that may change and updates will be provided. And oh yeah, the show in Monterey is on the 18th of August, so this is going to be one quick trip! Thank you all, Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 16:38:40 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 06:38:40 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] volt drop In-Reply-To: <1532687300.323205.1312814599089.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1532687300.323205.1312814599089.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Sounds to me like you have to clean your battery terminals with a terminal cleaner. Common problem. On 8/8/11, gardner5 at comcast.net wrote: > > > Have a 2 volt- drop detected between battery and starter, so cranking is > weak. I'd thought that I'd already eliminated grounding etc. through visual > investigation , so I figured it that it was the starter armature and > therefore had the starter rebuilt. Installed the rebuilt starter, and still > have a 2 volt-drop. Now I'm considering replacing the cable from the > battery to the starter with a larger diameter. Any ideas? > > > > Joel > > BN2 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Jean Caron" > To: "healey nut" , jvvmusme at yahoo.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, August 8, 2011 7:04:59 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail > > Alan: > I think you are referring to the later 6 cylinder models, Jose is asking > about > the BN2 model that has a triangular wood piece covered in vynil the same > colour as the interior. It is located inside the right hand side of the car > pretty well in line with the opening where the spare tire bag joins the > spare > tire opening in the chassis. Jose , look through your right rear wheel well, > there should be two holes used to locate the screws that hold the wood > pieces > in place. > > Jean > > >> Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:23:24 +0800 >> From: healey.nut at gmail.com >> To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail >> >> Jose - >> >> There are two of these triangular (or more accurately, rhomboid) blocks >> which one bolts to the front wall of the boot and the other on the >> lefthand >> side. There should be two captive nuts welded on the axle side of the boot >> >> wall, the block will bolt onto that. If I recall these should be 7/16" >> nuts. The one that bolts to the front boot wall will have a small piece of >> >> flat iron, twisted, with a hole, for the tyre hold down bar to fit >> through. >> >> Alan >> >> On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:09 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas > wrote: >> >> > Can anyone supply me (off list) a picture of the position of the Spare > tire >> > wood triangle, that helps keep the spare tire in place ? >> > >> > I have the piece but i do nt know where to screw it. >> > >> > Thanks >> > >> > Jose >> > >> > >> > Sent from my iPad >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho > tmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gardner5 at comcast.net > -- Sent from my mobile device From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 17:24:46 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 19:24:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Drive Begins In-Reply-To: <1f43a.c2f8428.3b71b9ff@aol.com> References: <1f43a.c2f8428.3b71b9ff@aol.com> Message-ID: Is information on his journey available anywhere but on facebook? If his route brings him anywhere near DC I would be happy to host or support him as needed and will be happy to pass along info to the Capital Area Club. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 6:15 PM, wrote: > Just so all of you know, John Nikas took off this morning from Huntington > Beach this morning in a 1953 BN1 on his journey to help Drive Away Cancer. > Two weeks ago, this car could barely get out of its own way, now with the > help of numerous Healey people, it and John are heading out on a 5800 mile > trip from coast to coast to coast. From Huntington Beach to Charlotte and > then back to Monterey, with the journey coming to completion on the main stage > of the Russo and Steele Car Auction in Monterey, California. > To follow his trip, you can go to a Facebook page dedicated to this > endeavor: > > _http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?ref=ts#!/pa > ges/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359_ > (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?ref=ts#!/pag es/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359 > ) > > I know it's a long link, but I don't know how to make them smaller, the > page is totally public so you can go there and follow the journey and if you > hit the "like" button at the top, you will be notified of updates. The > route and timing will be updated there and I reach out to our community to help > out whenever they can, if they can. > It's fitting that the car itself has its own rust cancer, but with all > of the work and love that has gone into "Grace", we are confident she will > carry John all the way on his journey. A video of John leaving the Pier > will be posted soon on youtube and I will post the link to the video as soon > as it's ready. > If you have any questions, do not hesitate to contact me and if you > can, pass the word to all the clubs along the way and maybe a cheering > section can be formed along the side of the road! As of right now, the route is > tentatively set as Highway 40 out to the east coast and then 80 back, but > that may change and updates will be provided. And oh yeah, the show in > Monterey is on the 18th of August, so this is going to be one quick trip! > Thank you all, > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From cleona44 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 8 17:44:28 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 19:44:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge 100/6 In-Reply-To: <00b301cc55e5$805a3910$810eab30$@verizon.net> References: <717149457.385988.1312811570849.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>, <00b301cc55e5$805a3910$810eab30$@verizon.net> Message-ID: If you don't have Clausager's book, just go to Derek Job's website www.healeysix/Production.htm for all the production details - jim lesher > From: ahbn6 at verizon.net > To: fogbro1 at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 12:09:06 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp Gauge 100/6 > > The temp pickup bulb was moved from the radiator tank header to the > thermostat housing at BN6/2030 in July of 58. > > The multiport intake manifold was engine between October 57 and November 57 > > This according to Clausager > > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net > Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 9:53 AM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge 100/6 > > List, > > > > At what point was the location of the temp gauge capillary bulb changed from > the radiator to the head? Did it coincide with the change to the > multiport/separate intake manifold? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 17:58:12 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 16:58:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold nuts Message-ID: With the help of my 16 yr old we were able to get all but the second exhaust manifold nuts on. But cannot get the second one in from front of engine. Anyone have a cool trick? Can it be reached from the bottom? I need to get it back on jack stands to finish tightening the starter, ground bolts. Re-attach the slave and run the ling cable back to the battery. But wanted to wait until I was done topside of the engine. Thanks, once I get it secure, I can start installing the carbs.. -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 18:34:09 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 08:34:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Oops sorry, didn't look at the Subject for the email - ignore me!!!!!! Alan On 8/8/11, Jean Caron wrote: > > Alan: > I think you are referring to the later 6 cylinder models, Jose is asking > about the BN2 model that has a triangular wood piece covered in vynil the > same colour as the interior. It is located inside the right hand side of the > car pretty well in line with the opening where the spare tire bag joins the > spare tire opening in the chassis. Jose , look through your right rear wheel > well, there should be two holes used to locate the screws that hold the wood > pieces in place. > > Jean > > >> Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:23:24 +0800 >> From: healey.nut at gmail.com >> To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2: Spare tire detail >> >> Jose - >> >> There are two of these triangular (or more accurately, rhomboid) blocks >> which one bolts to the front wall of the boot and the other on the >> lefthand >> side. There should be two captive nuts welded on the axle side of the boot >> wall, the block will bolt onto that. If I recall these should be 7/16" >> nuts. The one that bolts to the front boot wall will have a small piece of >> flat iron, twisted, with a hole, for the tyre hold down bar to fit >> through. >> >> Alan >> >> On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:09 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas >> wrote: >> >> > Can anyone supply me (off list) a picture of the position of the Spare >> > tire >> > wood triangle, that helps keep the spare tire in place ? >> > >> > I have the piece but i do nt know where to screw it. >> > >> > Thanks >> > >> > Jose >> > >> > >> > Sent from my iPad >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Aug 8 19:04:28 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 20:04:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] The Drive Begins In-Reply-To: References: <1f43a.c2f8428.3b71b9ff@aol.com> Message-ID: <23608D8404CA480894E50F8B6A928A8E@GregPC> Same here, if the route is posted anywhere and my club is on it I think we could organize a help or host as needed. Greg Lemon, smack dab in the middle of America on I-80. From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 19:08:11 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 18:08:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold nuts In-Reply-To: <010e01cc562d$7d7fb420$787f1c60$@verizon.net> References: <010e01cc562d$7d7fb420$787f1c60$@verizon.net> Message-ID: trying to get them on, not off. Had manifolds plasma coated. threads are clean, just can't get to the stud to attach the nut... On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 5:44 PM, John Sims wrote: > Ira, while not an ideal solution, when I first had this problem, I just cut > the nuts off. They were so rusted to the studs that the nuts and studs were > just one piece of metal. I ended up drilling and rethreading the manifolds > and I was sure to use BRASS nuts. Now when I have to do something it is no > big deal. I had a severe case of DPO with my car. > > John > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of I Erbs > Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 7:58 PM > To: Ahealey help > Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold nuts > > With the help of my 16 yr old we were able to get all but the second > exhaust > manifold nuts on. But cannot get the second one in from front of engine. > Anyone have a cool trick? Can it be reached from the bottom? I need to get > it back on jack stands to finish tightening the starter, ground bolts. > Re-attach the slave and run the ling cable back to the battery. But wanted > to wait until I was done topside of the engine. > Thanks, once I get it secure, I can start installing the carbs.. > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 8 19:12:48 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:12:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Drive Begins Message-ID: <259ca.4e9e1074.3b71e390@aol.com> I will have more information as to where John's journey can be followed soon, I know facebook is very limiting and I want to make a correction, John is headed to Charleston, South Carolina not Charlotte as i reported earlier. The past three days have taken a toll in no sleep and I apologize. Video of departure will be up shortly on youtube. Steven In a message dated 8/8/2011 4:24:46 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, michael.oritt at gmail.com writes: Is information on his journey available anywhere but on facebook? If his route brings him anywhere near DC I would be happy to host or support him as needed and will be happy to pass along info to the Capital Area Club. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 6:15 PM, wrote: > Just so all of you know, John Nikas took off this morning from Huntington > Beach this morning in a 1953 BN1 on his journey to help Drive Away Cancer. > Two weeks ago, this car could barely get out of its own way, now with the > help of numerous Healey people, it and John are heading out on a 5800 mile > trip from coast to coast to coast. From Huntington Beach to Charlotte and > then back to Monterey, with the journey coming to completion on the main stage > of the Russo and Steele Car Auction in Monterey, California. > To follow his trip, you can go to a Facebook page dedicated to this > endeavor: > > _http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?ref=ts#!/pa > ges/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359_ > (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?ref=ts#!/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359 > ) > > I know it's a long link, but I don't know how to make them smaller, the > page is totally public so you can go there and follow the journey and if you > hit the "like" button at the top, you will be notified of updates. The > route and timing will be updated there and I reach out to our community to help > out whenever they can, if they can. > It's fitting that the car itself has its own rust cancer, but with all > of the work and love that has gone into "Grace", we are confident she will > carry John all the way on his journey. A video of John leaving the Pier > will be posted soon on youtube and I will post the link to the video as soon > as it's ready. > If you have any questions, do not hesitate to contact me and if you > can, pass the word to all the clubs along the way and maybe a cheering > section can be formed along the side of the road! As of right now, the route is > tentatively set as Highway 40 out to the east coast and then 80 back, but > that may change and updates will be provided. And oh yeah, the show in > Monterey is on the 18th of August, so this is going to be one quick trip! > Thank you all, > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 8 19:16:02 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:16:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Drive Begins Message-ID: <25b6f.3df24d3a.3b71e452@aol.com> As I get more information, I will pass it along to everyone and just to make the correction again, John's headed to Charleston, South Carolina not Charlotte as I stated earlier. Sorry for the mistake, but my brain is more than a bit fried from the past three days of prep. Thanks, Steven In a message dated 8/8/2011 6:04:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, glemon at neb.rr.com writes: Same here, if the route is posted anywhere and my club is on it I think we could organize a help or host as needed. Greg Lemon, smack dab in the middle of America on I-80. From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 19:51:51 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 18:51:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] help needed in Portland,OR Message-ID: Anyone on the list in the Portland,OR area, have some time to help me get my car running in time for the ABFM, Labor day weekend? Lots of little stuff to hook up and dial in. Any evening or weekend day would be great. contact off list. Food and beverages supplied. eyera3000 at gmail.com -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 20:31:31 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 19:31:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop In-Reply-To: <4L54MvJb0DQOFw0t@jharper.demon.co.uk> References: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> <4L54MvJb0DQOFw0t@jharper.demon.co.uk> Message-ID: I'm sorry but these specifications make no sense, and are not supported by any literature I have read in the automotive field over the last 40+ years. A 2 volt drop in a starter circuit is huge. A 2 volt drop is border line no start on any car. The industry specification is 0.3V for the positive cable and 0.2V for the negative cable. Note some sources say 0.2V for both cables. Remember we are talking about the voltage drop or difference in potential between the battery end of the cable and the starter end of the cable, so we are discussing just what is being lost in the cable and connections, not the draw down by the starter. Torque at 1,000 RPM? Starters turn the engine at 200-300 RPM period. Don't believe me? go out to your Healey, crank it and look at the tach. It is not showing 1,000 RPM 15.5 foot lbs of torque from the starter? I have no clue what this is supposed to be or how you are going to verify it. Talk about a useless number. 570Amp draw on the starter as normal? No way, no how. Normal amp draw on a gas engine starter is in the 100-150 amp range. I would expect a Healey to draw in the neighborhood of 125 amps or so. Most batteries won't deliver 570 Amp for more than a few seconds. For a comparison a high compression big block Chevy motor with a bad starter will draw 300 Amps and barely turn the engine over. Also a 300Amp draw the battery cables get hot from the amount of current. Locked up torque? No idea what it is, but 900A draw? You will melt the cables. This is basically a dead short across the battery terminals. You are discussing major league arc-welding here. 900A at 12 Volts is about 14.5 Horsepower. Likewise a 115Amp hour battery? I don't think so. Gas engine cars typically have a 30-45 Amp hour battery. The replacement battery that Moss sells for a big Healey is a Westco and is rated at 31 amp hours. sounds about right based on my experience. A diesel Mercedes has a fricking HUGE battery, it is rated at 88 amp hours, and you are telling me the Healey had a battery almost 50% larger than that? Nope, not buying it. Rick On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 12:46 PM, John Harper wrote: > > Joel > > A larger diameter cable will do no harm and perhaps give the starter a > little more 'sparkle' but the original cable to the correct specification > with good terminations is quite adequate. > > 2 volts drop is not that great. Bear in mind that the official test > specification for 'our' M45G starter is > > Torque at 1000 r.p.m.: 15.5 lb.ft with 570 amp at 8.8 terminal voltage > > Lock Torque 32.5 lb.-ft with 900 amps 6.4 terminal voltage. > > This with fully charged 115 amp.hr battery at 10-hour rate. > > So taking the first 1000 r.p.m. as being a typical starting figure we have > about 4 volts drop and this with short test leads used on the rig and a good > high capacity battery. > > It is more likely that your battery has an increased internal resistance > due to age etc. > > Before changing anything else I would try an alternative battery. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 8 21:29:06 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 20:29:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop In-Reply-To: <1430991717.365078.1312860143270.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1430991717.365078.1312860143270.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Joel, Is the drop on the power side or the ground side? You should check both side, and repair the side that has the excessive drop. If for example the power side has a 2.0V drop and the ground side has 0.2V drop changing the ground cable is not going to help. One problem that shows up on show cars and fancy hot rods is they paint everything before assembly and they have paint to paint contact between the starter and the bellhousing and between the bellhousing and engine and between the engine and the ground strap. The result is a very pretty car that won't start. You need good metal to metal contact. good luck Rick On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:22 PM, wrote: > I appreciate everyone's input, and the info it's providing. In my > particular situation, the battery is new and has been tested. The volt drop > testing is being performed by an actual professional (he owed me a favor and > I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something). The starter has just > been rebuilt, again by a professional shop. So my plan is to re-check the > ground from bellhousing to chasis for good contact and check the cable > connection contacts, volt test again, and then replace the cable with a > larger diameter. > > > > Joel > > BN2 > > ------------------------------ > > *From: *"Richard Ewald" > *To: *"John Harper" > *Cc: *gardner5 at comcast.net, "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" < > enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>, healeys at autox.team.net > *Sent: *Monday, August 8, 2011 7:31:31 PM > > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop > > I'm sorry but these specifications make no sense, and are not supported by > any literature I have read in the automotive field over the last 40+ years. > A 2 volt drop in a starter circuit is huge. A 2 volt drop is border line > no start on any car. The industry specification is 0.3V for the positive > cable and 0.2V for the negative cable. Note some sources say 0.2V for both > cables. Remember we are talking about the voltage drop or difference in > potential between the battery end of the cable and the starter end of the > cable, so we are discussing just what is being lost in the cable and > connections, not the draw down by the starter. > Torque at 1,000 RPM? Starters turn the engine at 200-300 RPM period. Don't > believe me? go out to your Healey, crank it and look at the tach. It is not > showing 1,000 RPM 15.5 foot lbs of torque from the starter? I have no clue > what this is supposed to be or how you are going to verify it. Talk about a > useless number. > 570Amp draw on the starter as normal? No way, no how. Normal amp draw on > a gas engine starter is in the 100-150 amp range. I would expect a Healey > to draw in the neighborhood of 125 amps or so. Most batteries won't deliver > 570 Amp for more than a few seconds. For a comparison a high compression > big block Chevy motor with a bad starter will draw 300 Amps and barely turn > the engine over. Also a 300Amp draw the battery cables get hot from the > amount of current. > Locked up torque? No idea what it is, but 900A draw? You will melt the > cables. This is basically a dead short across the battery terminals. You > are discussing major league arc-welding here. 900A at 12 Volts is about > 14.5 Horsepower. > Likewise a 115Amp hour battery? I don't think so. Gas engine cars > typically have a 30-45 Amp hour battery. The replacement battery that Moss > sells for a big Healey is a Westco and is rated at 31 amp hours. sounds > about right based on my experience. A diesel Mercedes has a fricking HUGE > battery, it is rated at 88 amp hours, and you are telling me the Healey had > a battery almost 50% larger than that? Nope, not buying it. > Rick > > > On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 12:46 PM, John Harper wrote: > >> >> Joel >> >> A larger diameter cable will do no harm and perhaps give the starter a >> little more 'sparkle' but the original cable to the correct specification >> with good terminations is quite adequate. >> >> 2 volts drop is not that great. Bear in mind that the official test >> specification for 'our' M45G starter is >> >> Torque at 1000 r.p.m.: 15.5 lb.ft with 570 amp at 8.8 terminal voltage >> >> Lock Torque 32.5 lb.-ft with 900 amps 6.4 terminal voltage. >> >> This with fully charged 115 amp.hr battery at 10-hour rate. >> >> So taking the first 1000 r.p.m. as being a typical starting figure we have >> about 4 volts drop and this with short test leads used on the rig and a good >> high capacity battery. >> >> It is more likely that your battery has an increased internal resistance >> due to age etc. >> >> Before changing anything else I would try an alternative battery. From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 8 22:02:07 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 00:02:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] John Nikas Huntington Pier Video Message-ID: <2aeb3.1c0729fc.3b720b3f@aol.com> Okay guys, here's the link to the video of us this morning at the Huntington Beach Pier. Enjoy and pass it along to all of those you know. If you can get on facebook, John has already posted some great pictures from the road and is in Arizona already on his way to New Mexico and the car is running great! How cool is that? Enjoy the video. _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq4_42H5tNg_ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq4_42H5tNg) And here's an article that was done on John from KNBC Television here in Los Angeles, check it out and pass it along to everyone you can. _http://www.nbclosangeles.com/the-scene/cars/1953-Austin-Healey-Drive-Away-C ancer-127268998.html_ (http://www.nbclosangeles.com/the-scene/cars/1953-Austin-Healey-Drive-Away-Cancer-127268998.html) As I know more, I will pass along the information I get as soon as I get it. Thanks all. Steven Kingsbury From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Aug 8 21:04:40 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2011 23:04:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <012301cc5641$14e75670$3eb60350$@verizon.net> Thanks to Gary Hodson, I have posted two PDF's on hardtops for the BN6 and BN7 on the Body section of the Technical page. One is several photos and a drawing of how the seal around the frame is set up and the second is an exploded view of the hardtop taken from the Parts Manual. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healey Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2011 3:42 PM To: Gilbert Gauthier; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] hardtop Many thanks for the Help folks! Maybe I am too dumb, but things are still not clear, even after checking all Your pics around the sealings. Ok, here how I see the things. We have 3 parts of the hardtop: - rear part, which sits on the cockpit moulding - front part, which sits on the windscreen frame - the two side parts above and around the windows What kind of rubbers and what sequence to use there. Unfortunatly the pics I have looked at today are not using the same pattern. My "original" item has rubers which I dont see on the pics. Soo here is my version soo far: - rear part. the two thick pads go to the are there the retaining stick is located (corner). Plain rubber glued on the alloy between the two pads. The spec. profile (27H9597) is glued on the top of the plain rubber between the pads. U profile finisher goes on the inner edge of the alloy. - front part: 27H9597 (?) glued on the alloy, U profile finisher on the inner edge. Two small thin plain rubber stripes glued on each corner to protect pillars from scratching. - Side part: same as front. Or? Do I got it wrong? Gergo - side part: same as front. _______________________________________________ From geatros at shaw.ca Mon Aug 8 22:28:01 2011 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:28:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 MK1 3000 Project for sale Message-ID: Hello, I'm selling my 1961 BT7 MK1 3000 project for $8500 CAD, clear title, disassembled, not running, will need typical sheet metal repairs. contact of the list if you have interest... Cheers Kenny Vancouver BC From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Aug 8 23:26:08 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:26:08 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] John Nikas Huntington Pier Video In-Reply-To: <2aeb3.1c0729fc.3b720b3f@aol.com> References: <2aeb3.1c0729fc.3b720b3f@aol.com> Message-ID: <0BDEF2EC96374733BA6053A9402E94BD@PatrickQuinnPC> Hello Steven That was great and I even saw someone I know. Perhaps it's important that we remember John is doing this drive as a fund raising effort for the eradication of cancer. If it's your thing it's worthwhile donating. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, 9 August 2011 2:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] John Nikas Huntington Pier Video Okay guys, here's the link to the video of us this morning at the Huntington Beach Pier. Enjoy and pass it along to all of those you know. If you can get on facebook, John has already posted some great pictures from the road and is in Arizona already on his way to New Mexico and the car is running great! How cool is that? Enjoy the video. _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq4_42H5tNg_ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq4_42H5tNg) And here's an article that was done on John from KNBC Television here in Los Angeles, check it out and pass it along to everyone you can. _http://www.nbclosangeles.com/the-scene/cars/1953-Austin-Healey-Drive-Away-C ancer-127268998.html_ (http://www.nbclosangeles.com/the-scene/cars/1953-Austin-Healey-Drive-Away-C ancer-127268998.html) As I know more, I will pass along the information I get as soon as I get it. Thanks all. Steven Kingsbury _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From rdhughes at q.com Mon Aug 8 23:47:57 2011 From: rdhughes at q.com (Robert Hughes) Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2011 22:47:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wacky Arnolt In-Reply-To: <0BF44F9F-7761-4D3D-8D67-82679C074098@gmail.com> References: <0BF44F9F-7761-4D3D-8D67-82679C074098@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E40CA0D.3050903@q.com> In the early '60s, I had a friend who raced a Bristol-powered Arnolt in the SCCA San Francisco region. It was hopelessly outperformed by everything in its class by then, but I guess it handled well and was fun to drive. There was a rumor that there was a warehouse somewhere full of unsold Arnolts... I don't know if that was true. Robert Hughes 1965 BJ8 ******************************** On 8/1/2011 10:21 PM, Eyera3000 wrote: > Try Bertone Arnolt. Good looking MG sedan looks a lot like a Bristol. Any > Bristol owners on the list. Driving one is on my bucket list > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > On Aug 1, 2011, at 5:16 PM, Jack Feldman wrote: > >> Thanks to the folks who answered my question. I never thought such minutia >> would be on the net, but I was given a good lesson in searching for >> everything and anything. >> >> Even got a phone call from a Healey lover who knows of a Arnolt Bertoni > that >> is being restored. >> >> The folks on this list are super. >> >> Jack From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 03:01:38 2011 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 11:01:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 Message-ID: <8E4786A2BB814D75AB6B6E4D9FFE1B12@TM1> Someone asked about hood frame color last week. I have matched the remains of paint on my BN2 frame (that might be actually an earlier frame) to RAL colors - the color no is 7005. I would presume most powder coat paint shops work with RAL color system. Tadek From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 9 04:01:26 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 12:01:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 In-Reply-To: <8E4786A2BB814D75AB6B6E4D9FFE1B12@TM1> References: <8E4786A2BB814D75AB6B6E4D9FFE1B12@TM1> Message-ID: <4E410576.4050007@chello.nl> I would not recommend powder coating. Use the old fashioned way of primer and top coat from a rattle can. Looks much more original, is easier to repair in case it gets damaged during assembly and is less prone to rust. It is also much cheaper. Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 04:15:05 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 11:15:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box problem Message-ID: Team. My Longbridge BN4 is fitted with a later steering box - the domed alloy top lid version. Unfortunately I have a strange problem with it which I would like to explore with you. If I tighten down the drop shaft to minimise backlash at the steering wheel in the straight ahead position I encounter a tight spot half way between the centre and full right lock. the tight spot spreads through about half a turn of the coumn and then releases again as you complete the turns through to full lock. If I slacken off the drop shaft preload I can avoid the tight spot but then I have about 4inches of free slack at the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. With the drop shaft removed the column spins freely in the tube with no oscillation so the column isn't bent and the bearing races/cups at each end of the worm are not damaged or pitted and run freely. I understand there should be a tight spot in the cetre of the worm but I can't detect it. My thought processes suggest that maybe the worm is machined wrong with the tight spot in the wrong place. Is that likely? Or The box casting is machined incorrectly so that the drop shaft isn't truly perpendicular to the column axis. That would cause things to tighten up as the cranked arm that holds the peg swings downhill toward the column. Any suggestions or insights guys? A new column from Jeremy Welch at BigHealey is around 1800GBP which I would like to avoid if possible!! Thanks.......... -- _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 04:49:23 2011 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at gmail.com (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 12:49:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 In-Reply-To: <4E410576.4050007@chello.nl> Message-ID: <34AEB47FA715470891DFDBB62D488020@TM1> Kees, I am a terrible painter.. But I paid about 30EUR to get it sand blasted, powder coated with a zinc coat & color. If I was to paint it by spray gun, I would pay at least twice the money here.. Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 12:01 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 I would not recommend powder coating. Use the old fashioned way of primer and top coat from a rattle can. Looks much more original, is easier to repair in case it gets damaged during assembly and is less prone to rust. It is also much cheaper. Kees Oudesluijs From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 9 05:24:20 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 13:24:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 In-Reply-To: <34AEB47FA715470891DFDBB62D488020@TM1> References: <34AEB47FA715470891DFDBB62D488020@TM1> Message-ID: <4E4118E4.6040900@chello.nl> Despite big improvements in the process, the adhesion of powder coating is still not all that great. Although OK when there is no damage, you easily get the powder coated surface damaged (scratched, compressed, cracked) when assembling the frame. This is nigh impossible to repair properly, while it would be possible to make simple repairs if the frame would have been primed and painted. Once the powder coat is damaged, rust can creep under neath while it will not be visible. If painted it can be spotted instantly and be treated. Do not worry to much about the paint job quality, it was not great from the start at the factory. Even done by hand it would be acceptable. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 06:54:03 2011 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 07:54:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Drop Message-ID: If you are near an Auto Zone, or similar parts store they will test your battery and starter free. Might give a better insight than just replacing parts. Jack From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 06:53:48 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 22:53:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Front crankshaft pulley nut size Message-ID: <155B832C-9F59-40A1-857D-A8BDA3B266D4@gmail.com> Guys, I've just spent a few hours in my Mums's garage, where all my car stuff lives (mostly in boxes) since my divorce. I promised Patrick Quinn I'd lend him my 3/4in drive socket and drive bar for his front pulley nut. My question? What bloody size is it? I've found my Dremmel. I've found a piston from a Formula one car circa 1989. But do you think I can find a front pulley nut to check the size??? I've found the 3/4 in drive bar, and a half a doz 3/4in drive sockets. I've found a 1 5/8 AF socket, which sort of looks right... But my memory tells me it's a weird size like 1 11/16 or something??? Anyone help? What size is the front pulley nut on a 100/6 3000 C series engine?? Chris Sent from my iPhone From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 07:28:14 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 14:28:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Front crankshaft pulley nut size In-Reply-To: <155B832C-9F59-40A1-857D-A8BDA3B266D4@gmail.com> References: <155B832C-9F59-40A1-857D-A8BDA3B266D4@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Chris. It's a 1" Whitworth socket which is 1.67" across the flats. On 9 August 2011 13:53, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Guys, > I've just spent a few hours in my Mums's garage, where all my car stuff > lives (mostly in boxes) since my divorce. > I promised Patrick Quinn I'd lend him my 3/4in drive socket and drive bar > for his front pulley nut. > My question? What bloody size is it? > I've found my Dremmel. I've found a piston from a Formula one car circa > 1989. But do you think I can find a front pulley nut to check the size??? > I've found the 3/4 in drive bar, and a half a doz 3/4in drive sockets. > I've found a 1 5/8 AF socket, which sort of looks right... But my memory > tells me it's a weird size like 1 11/16 or something??? > Anyone help? > What size is the front pulley nut on a 100/6 3000 C series engine?? > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > -- > _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 08:13:44 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 16:13:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Copenhagen Grand Prix for Historic Racing In-Reply-To: References: <391F92ED-985C-444E-A1AE-7448BFD1D094@bornet.net> Message-ID: Very nice action shots. Derek On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:32 AM, Austin Healey wrote: > Realy pretty machines! > > Gergo > > 2011/8/8 Magnus Karlsson > > > Hi everyone, > > > > On my website I just posted photos from the Copenhagen Grand Prix that > took > > place this weekend. I4ve included photos of Danish Healeys visiting the > > event. > > > > If you are interested please click on the following link: > > > > http://www.concourshealeys.com/copenhagen-grand-prix-2011/ > > > > > > Magnus Karlsson > > > > www.concourshealeys.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Tue Aug 9 08:29:05 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 10:29:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] hardtop Message-ID: <8CE24B7D36DD341-27D8-46E65@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com> As indicated on the documents, the drawing illustrating the rear seal for the hardtop to shroud is specifically for the BN6,7 only. Also, the photos are of BN6,7 hardtops. The BN4, BT7 hardtop seals are similar but not identical. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Sims To: 'Austin Healey' ; 'Gilbert Gauthier' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Mon, Aug 8, 2011 11:29 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] hardtop Thanks to Gary Hodson, I have posted two PDF's on hardtops for the BN6 and N7 on the Body section of the Technical page. One is several photos and a rawing of how the seal around the frame is set up and the second is an xploded view of the hardtop taken from the Parts Manual. John Sims, BN6 berdeen, NJ ttp://www.healey6.com ----Original Message----- rom: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] n Behalf Of Austin Healey ent: Thursday, August 04, 2011 3:42 PM o: Gilbert Gauthier; Healey List ubject: Re: [Healeys] hardtop Many thanks for the Help folks! Maybe I am too dumb, but things are still not clear, even after checking all our pics around the sealings. Ok, here how I see the things. We have 3 parts of the hardtop: rear part, which sits on the cockpit moulding front part, which sits on the windscreen frame the two side parts above and around the windows What kind of rubbers and what sequence to use there. Unfortunatly the pics I ave looked at today are not using the same pattern. My "original" item has ubers which I dont see on the pics. Soo here is my version soo far: rear part. the two thick pads go to the are there the retaining stick is ocated (corner). Plain rubber glued on the alloy between the two pads. The pec. profile (27H9597) is glued on the top of the plain rubber between the ads. U profile finisher goes on the inner edge of the alloy. front part: 27H9597 (?) glued on the alloy, U profile finisher on the nner edge. Two small thin plain rubber stripes glued on each corner to rotect pillars from scratching. Side part: same as front. Or? Do I got it wrong? Gergo side part: same as front. ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Tue Aug 9 10:21:04 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 12:21:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer Tiny URL Message-ID: <571f2.1cfe8daf.3b72b86f@aol.com> Hey listers, Thanks to Ed, I was able to make the link into a tiny one. And you don't need to be a member of Facebook to follow the page. It is totally public and with just one click you can follow John, see his photos, watch any videos we might be able to post and generally stay updated. The only thing you can't do is comment, like or leave a message, because you have to join Facebook to do that. You can use any links though that may be posted, so it's just like you're a member of Facebook, you just can't leave a footprint so to speak. Look for the Stand up to Cancer link and that's where you can go to make a donation if you so choose, but this is the easiest way we could go so John can update from the road and keep everyone in the loop. Thank you all for your support and keep your fingers crossed. Here's the tiny link: http://tinyurl.com/3znlmac Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From rplindsay at comcast.net Tue Aug 9 10:29:15 2011 From: rplindsay at comcast.net (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 11:29:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Removal Message-ID: Over the weekend the front left bearings went out (lots of noise metal shavings). I have removed the castle nut and rotor bolts but cannot get the hub off. It wiggles but won't pull off. The book says to use a hub extractor. Is this necessary or can I use a lever of some kind? Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Tue Aug 9 10:29:02 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 12:29:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Another Cancer Link Message-ID: <577fe.2b61b827.3b72ba4e@aol.com> Here's another link that will take you to the Stand Up To Cancer page where you can sign up to join John's team and make a donation if you so choose. This page will also be updated as the trip moves along, it is not on Facebook and can be shared also with anyone you choose. Thank you all again for your support and the journey continues. _http://www.standup2cancer.org/custom/?c=team&a=index&id=5179_ (http://www.standup2cancer.org/custom/?c=team&a=index&id=5179) Steven Kingsbury From rpschauss at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 11:28:37 2011 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 13:28:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I used a small block of wood, something hard like oak. It should be long enough so that when rested against the end of the stub axel it stick out beyond the end of the hub but short enough so that you can start the knock-off on the threads of the hub. Tighten the knock-off and the hub should come loose. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 12:29 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote: > Over the weekend the front left bearings went out (lots of noise metal > shavings). I have removed the castle nut and rotor bolts but cannot get the > hub off. It wiggles but won't pull off. The book says to use a hub extractor. > Is this necessary or can I use a lever of some kind? > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Tue Aug 9 10:41:43 2011 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 17:41:43 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: volt drop In-Reply-To: References: <9F962DCE44C1465AA09CC9153B30940C@TomVistaPC> <4L54MvJb0DQOFw0t@jharper.demon.co.uk> Message-ID: <2ceL5yCHNWQOFwFy@jharper.demon.co.uk> Richard >I'm sorry but these specifications make no sense, and are not supported >by any literature I have read in the automotive field over the last 40+ years. These figures are taken from Lucas Workshop Instruction manual. Starting Motor Section B-6 Page 2 Issue 3 June 1962. However before taking this further I have checked again and realise that the figures I recorded previously relate to a Pre-engaged M45G Starter. What I should have done is to have used Section B-2 page 2, M45G inertia-engaged Starting Motor, in the same Instruction manual. The torque and current figues are a liittle lower but this does not significantly change my argument. >Torque at 1,000 RPM? Starters turn the engine at 200-300 RPM period. >Don't believe me? go out to your Healey, crank it and look at the tach. It >is not showing 1,000 RPM 15.5 foot lbs of torque from the starter? I have >no clue what this is supposed to be or how you are going to verify it. Talk >about a useless number. Yes engines turn around the speed you say but we are talking about the starter not the engine. The ratio is around 1:10 so turning the engine at something like 100 r.p.m. seems to be a good test! >570Amp draw on the starter as normal? No way, no how. Normal amp >draw on a gas engine starter is in the 100-150 amp range. I would expect >a Healey to draw in the neighborhood of 125 amps or so. It is by no means a useless number because it is the pass test for a good starter when tested on special Lucas specified rig before it leaves the workshop. Some of the figures relate to a starter held stalled. As you say not in anyway normal but part of the workshop test. I suspect that this test only lasted long enough to take the measurements. The workshop tests use a very heavy battery as I have said. I have not tried to compare this with a typical A-H battery. What I was trying to show was that high voltage drops are likely in any starter arrangement. However what nobody seems to have established is what the initial 2V drop related to. Was it the 'droop' at the battery terminals or was it a measurement between the battery terminal and the starter terminal or even a measurement somehow taking into consideration the return path between the starter case and the battery grounded terminal. Regards -- John Harper From rpschauss at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 14:08:38 2011 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 16:08:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <5E600B72-1B3F-4E82-9A44-9919A29E9DF2@comcast.net> References: <5E600B72-1B3F-4E82-9A44-9919A29E9DF2@comcast.net> Message-ID: One detail that I forgot to add is to leave the castle nut on the stub axel (loosely) to protect the threads. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 4:00 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote: > Thank you - great idea. > > Price Lindsay > > 630-841-6300 Cell > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Aug 9, 2011, at 12:28 PM, Peter Schauss wrote: > >> I used a small block of wood, something hard like oak. It should be >> long enough so that when >> rested against the end of the stub axel it stick out beyond the end of >> the hub but short enough so >> that you can start the knock-off on the threads of the hub. Tighten >> the knock-off and the hub should >> come loose. >> >> HTH, >> Peter Schauss >> 1963 BJ7 >> 1980 MGB >> >> On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 12:29 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote: >>> Over the weekend the front left bearings went out (lots of noise metal >>> shavings). I have removed the castle nut and rotor bolts but cannot get the >>> hub off. It wiggles but won't pull off. The book says to use a hub extractor. >>> Is this necessary or can I use a lever of some kind? >>> >>> Price Lindsay >>> 67 BJ8 From kags at shaw.ca Tue Aug 9 14:32:04 2011 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 13:32:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye available -- Message-ID: <47D41D272F264FA8AD326E398952619F@KagsLaptop> Listers: This is an estate sale: Early bugeye for sale, full restoration completed approx. 1 year ago, was a pretty solid car to start with. 1275 engine fully rebuilt, front end rebuilt, later disk brakes installed, Rivergate 5-speed transmission and rear main seal kit installed (3.9 diff), wire wheels (painted) installed with new tires. Car is painted Speedwell blue, has a black interior. Original disk wheels and hubcaps may be available. Over $30K spent b car is currently appraised at $15K b and that is the asking price. At the executors request, initial enquiries should be made to me b off-list, and serious potential purchasers will the put put in direct touch with the executor. Would some kind list member please forward this to the Spridget list, and anywhere else that would be appropriate. I would appreciate being advised when that is done. Thanks in advance, Earl Kagna, Victoria, BC From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Tue Aug 9 14:35:06 2011 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 13:35:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Sending Unit In-Reply-To: <20110807.091948.19010.516941@mailpop03.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <1312922106.97290.YahooMailClassic@web130214.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Try Joe Curto, he has some experience with them. 718 762 7878 > Is there a service that refurbishes > original Smiths units? TIA. > > Doug From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Aug 9 16:23:56 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:23:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Bugeye available -- Message-ID: <1312928636.5697.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Forwarded from the Healey list. NFI. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Tue, 8/9/11, Earl Kagna wrote: From: Earl Kagna Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye available -- To: "Healey List" Date: Tuesday, August 9, 2011, 4:32 PM Listers: This is an estate sale: Early bugeye for sale, full restoration completed approx. 1 year ago, was a pretty solid car to start with. 1275 engine fully rebuilt, front end rebuilt, later disk brakes installed, Rivergate 5-speed transmission and rear main seal kit installed (3.9 diff), wire wheels (painted) installed with new tires. Car is painted Speedwell blue, has a black interior. Original disk wheels and hubcaps may be available. Over $30K spent b car is currently appraised at $15K b and that is the asking price. At the executors request, initial enquiries should be made to me b off-list, and serious potential purchasers will the put put in direct touch with the executor. Would some kind list member please forward this to the Spridget list, and anywhere else that would be appropriate. I would appreciate being advised when that is done. Thanks in advance, Earl Kagna, Victoria, BC _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 16:33:53 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:33:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 In-Reply-To: <4E410576.4050007@chello.nl> References: <8E4786A2BB814D75AB6B6E4D9FFE1B12@TM1> <4E410576.4050007@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees, Absolute nonsense! All powder coater's are not the same and just so everyone knows powdercoat is simply paint, applied electrostatically in powdered form and then baked on versus in an aerosol form with solvent Both Roger Moment and I have been using powdercoat for years now and it is much superior to regular painting. We both use "Cardinal" brand either in an 80% gloss or in my case a 60% gloss. My local powdercoater specializes in parts for the high end auto restorer and as such after the parts are bead blasted they are then phosphate coated for rust protection and the powder is applied cold not hot as in the typical process, i.e. lawn furniture and the like. The result is a finish that is 4-5 mils thick versus the 7-8 mils of the typical process and looks like paint. In other words... it does not have that "too thick" look of most powder coating processes. The finish is more durable than the normal painting process, looks fantastic and is extremely rust resistant. Also, Cardinal sell cans of their black paint matching the various gloss gradients 40%, 60%, 80% etc....for touch-ups and small items. Roger has powder coated virtually everything to include the entire rear axle, springs, steering box and shaft, front suspension, etc... and they look as good as the day they were first done. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 3:01 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > I would not recommend powder coating. Use the old fashioned way of > primer and top coat from a rattle can. Looks much more original, is > easier to repair in case it gets damaged during assembly and is less > prone to rust. It is also much cheaper. > Kees Oudesluijs From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Tue Aug 9 19:22:06 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 20:22:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings Message-ID: Does anyone sales the overdrive pistons ring in the US? It is for the original pistons.... Thanks Jose Sent from my iPad Sent from my iPad From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Tue Aug 9 23:27:59 2011 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 22:27:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] driving lights - stone guards Message-ID: Listers: i have a pair of driving lights mounted in the front of the car. these are 7 inch Lucas driving lights. they mount at the bottom only. XK's Unlimted calls them "stem mounted Auxiliary Light screen", or lamp screen. i would like to buy a pair but XK's says they haven't had them for years. any ideas? any old ones for sale? thanks ron rader Playa del Rey CA From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Aug 10 00:18:25 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 02:18:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] John Nikas Video Message-ID: <95a40.6cd7857e.3b737cb1@aol.com> I have added some music to the video and if you liked it before, this is even better. Check it out: _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwqPdM1wksw_ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwqPdM1wksw) Also, a problem as arisen, don't know all the details as of yet, but will update when I find out more. I do know John is in New Mexico. Steven Kingsbury From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Aug 10 01:55:08 2011 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 17:55:08 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] driving lights - stone guards In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8648B2B5B8E246ACB2D6F3494B03244F@Notebook> G'day Ron I had the same problem with the driving lights on my BN1 - smaller size (5 1/4" I think) I ended up buying clip-on ones and brazing a piece of flat steel onto the bottom so I could mount them on the lamp mounting studs (see photos). Holden Vintage & Classic have 7" ones for Stg15.99, not expensive. http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=&pgCode=010&sgName=Search&pgName=Lighting&agCode=0003&agName=Stoneguards+and+Rims&pCode=010.372 Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz -----Original Message----- From: F Ronald Rader Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 3:27 PM To: List Healey Subject: [Healeys] driving lights - stone guards Listers: i have a pair of driving lights mounted in the front of the car. these are 7 inch Lucas driving lights. they mount at the bottom only. XK's Unlimted calls them "stem mounted Auxiliary Light screen", or lamp screen. i would like to buy a pair but XK's says they haven't had them for years. any ideas? any old ones for sale? thanks ron rader Playa del Rey CA [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010599.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010601.JPG] From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Aug 10 06:09:54 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 13:09:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Steering box problem - update Message-ID: Team. Many thanks for the offer of spares etc. I investigated further today to try and identify the cause of the tight spot. I made up a steel strap to bolt across the top of the box so that I could preload the drop shaft with the lid of the box off. I discovered that the tight spot is exactly in the centre of the worm with engagement running freely both before and after the tight spot. That indicates to me that the axis of the drop shaft and column are accurately perpendicular. So why does the tight spot manifest itself halfway between straight ahead and full right lock? Since the Pitman arm has a blind spline that acts as a keyway onto the drop shaft, it will only go onto the shaft one way. I have to assume therefore that the splines are machined out of register with the peg angle of the drop shaft which swings everything off to the right. I have today ordered one of Jeremy Welch's new constant clearance worm/column assemblies (CSTG01) and will let you know how it performs when I get it. Best. _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Aug 10 08:46:36 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 14:46:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Shameless plug Message-ID: <21870025.518620.1312987596321.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, No one on The List made an offer so the 100-6/3000 oil cooler kit (used) is on Ebay, auction no. 120762056796. Ed Woods From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Wed Aug 10 11:00:25 2011 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 17:00:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] cable throttle kit In-Reply-To: References: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075A52A2@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com> Message-ID: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF633075A84F5@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com> Ira, I am still looking for the pictures of the kit on the car. I could have sworn I ran across them last week when looking for something else. Otherwise I can take a picture of some of the stuff loose but it will look like Welch's catalog photo if there is one. There is a V bracket that attaches to the lower carb studs so that the point of the V is between the carbs and pointed to the ground. The point of the V holds the cable outer end. This bracket may or may not interfere with the carb heat shield. Having the cable run under the carbs can be an issue with the cable touching headers or exhaust manifolds and kinking. The other problem is the new lever that has the pinch bolt. I think to keep the pinch bolt tight enough to keep from slipping would require a wrench access that can't be done with my Kirk headers. I had a lot of trouble with slipping and stranding me a couple of times. I eventually custom made a wrench and used a socket head screw as the pinch bolt. Figuring out where to put the cable bracket at the pedal end is also trial and error, there are no instructions. I think it requires drilling holes in the pedal box. The other problem was trying to get full travel at the carbs with the length of the lever at the pedal. A lot of trial and error with limited access for tightening. I had to make up a geometric diagram to translate movement at one end and how much movement that gave me at the other end. This all started because my brand new Burlen HD8's seemed drilled for a Jag and not a BJ8. I think a cable coming over the top of the engine and a pinch bolt/lever that is attached inside the car to the pedal would be a better design. Ken Freese BJ8 From akronzips at aol.com Wed Aug 10 11:53:34 2011 From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 13:53:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Vintage Car Racing Crashes (not healeys) In-Reply-To: <006f01cc577b$7b617440$72245cc0$@cox.net> References: <006f01cc577b$7b617440$72245cc0$@cox.net> Message-ID: <8CE259D8EC0216A-1900-8577@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com> Rich I thought you and the listers might enjoy this . Howard 61 BT-7 -----Original Message----- From: Robert Morris To: Morris, Howard Sent: Wed, Aug 10, 2011 12:34 pm Subject: FW: Vintage Car Racing Crashes From: Rich&Robin Lodge [mailto:rrlodge at bellsouth.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 2:06 PM To: Undisclosed-Recipient: ;@smtp108.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com Subject: Fw: Vintage Car Racing Crashes This is the old time racing............blood & guts! http://devour.com/video/vintage-race-car-crashes/ From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Aug 10 12:46:06 2011 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 11:46:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cable Throttle Kit - thoughts Message-ID: <000001cc578d$c76545d0$562fd170$@com> Ira, I'd think you'd need to use your cross rod and run the cable off a lever hanging down on the passenger side. It would go up and across the valve cover to address the throttle linkage from right to left. Better make sure the lever is hellishly tight to avoid slippage - I'd be tempted to tack weld the levers in place. That means you'd have to use at least part of your existing linkage on the driver's side. You'd need to use new joints (Tom's Toys has good prices). If you're doing that, why not do the whole thing. Incorporating HD8s on an HD6 car entails attaching the bracket with bearing to the firewall (moss) and making a longer shaft out of 5/16" drill rod. Pictures of modified linkage here: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/dmd2inch Made a brace to prevent slippage of the bell cranks on the shaft: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/82300801 -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 10 12:47:41 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 20:47:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Vintage Car Racing Crashes (not healeys) In-Reply-To: <8CE259D8EC0216A-1900-8577@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com> References: <006f01cc577b$7b617440$72245cc0$@cox.net> <8CE259D8EC0216A-1900-8577@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4E42D24D.2030806@chello.nl> Enjoy what? Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Wed Aug 10 13:21:52 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 21:21:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Vintage Car Racing Crashes (not healeys) In-Reply-To: <4E42D24D.2030806@chello.nl> References: <006f01cc577b$7b617440$72245cc0$@cox.net> <8CE259D8EC0216A-1900-8577@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com> <4E42D24D.2030806@chello.nl> Message-ID: About 8 out of 10 of thoose crashes ended a human life. Not too funny. Gergo 2011/8/10 Oudesluys > Enjoy what? > Kees Oudesluijs > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From rplindsay at comcast.net Wed Aug 10 13:23:28 2011 From: rplindsay at comcast.net (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 14:23:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <74D8EAC5-BE63-45CB-BD5F-62C324A817E9@comcast.net> Thank you all for your suggestions. Peter's suggestion worked well. The stub axle appears to be OK with solid threads. Now I need to replace all of the small bits, grease the new bearings and put it back together. This could have been a whole lot worse - I dodged a bullet, so to speak. Price Lindsay 630-841-6300 Cell Sent from my iPhone On Aug 9, 2011, at 12:28 PM, Peter Schauss wrote: > I used a small block of wood, something hard like oak. It should be > long enough so that when > rested against the end of the stub axel it stick out beyond the end of > the hub but short enough so > that you can start the knock-off on the threads of the hub. Tighten > the knock-off and the hub should > come loose. > > HTH, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB > > On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 12:29 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote: >> Over the weekend the front left bearings went out (lots of noise metal >> shavings). I have removed the castle nut and rotor bolts but cannot get the >> hub off. It wiggles but won't pull off. The book says to use a hub extractor. >> Is this necessary or can I use a lever of some kind? >> >> Price Lindsay >> 67 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rplindsay at comcast.net From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Aug 10 13:53:49 2011 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 12:53:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: Cable Throttle Kit - thoughts - incorrect at that Message-ID: <000501cc5797$3bc116d0$b3434470$@com> Right to left is incorrect - got it backwards! Yikes! Flame away! From: Steve Gerow [mailto:steveg at abrazosdata.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 11:46 AM To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Cc: 'eyera3000 at gmail.com'; 'Ken.Freese at aerojet.com' Subject: Re: Cable Throttle Kit - thoughts Ira, I'd think you'd need to use your cross rod and run the cable off a lever hanging down on the passenger side. It would go up and across the valve cover to address the throttle linkage from right to left. Better make sure the lever is hellishly tight to avoid slippage - I'd be tempted to tack weld the levers in place. That means you'd have to use at least part of your existing linkage on the driver's side. You'd need to use new joints (Tom's Toys has good prices). If you're doing that, why not do the whole thing. Incorporating HD8s on an HD6 car entails attaching the bracket with bearing to the firewall (moss) and making a longer shaft out of 5/16" drill rod. Pictures of modified linkage here: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/dmd2inch Made a brace to prevent slippage of the bell cranks on the shaft: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/82300801 -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 From ruvino at ripnet.com Wed Aug 10 15:46:00 2011 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 17:46:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] starting problem Message-ID: Car reluctant to start. Very little juice. Went to put on battery charger and noticed that positive connector was quite warm. Something in the back of my mind says I should know what this means. But as I approach my 73 birthday I canbt always grab these thoughts and knowledge from the air around my head. I am sure there is someone out there younger than me who will remember. Carl BN-4(L) From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Wed Aug 10 15:51:49 2011 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 21:51:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] orphan BJ8 caliper Message-ID: Awhile back I was talking with someone that had a single BJ8 caliper for sale. I do not recall who that was. If that person sees this email, please reply. Thanks, Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Aug 10 16:13:54 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 08:13:54 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] starting problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <175B0F6A-36A2-470E-B3A1-118F8945E38B@gmail.com> Carl, Heat is due to increased resistance. Clean the terminals and the battery posts. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 11/08/2011, at 7:46 AM, "Dr. C. Rubino" wrote: > Car reluctant to start. Very little juice. Went to put on battery > charger and > noticed that positive connector was quite warm. Something in the > back of my > mind says I should know what this means. But as I approach my 73 > birthday I > canbt always grab these thoughts and knowledge from the air around > my head. > > I am sure there is someone out there younger than me who will > remember. > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 10 16:40:22 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 15:40:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] starting problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <699F795B-87BE-4C64-B11F-FE49C9D35BF0@sbcglobal.net> Any time a electrical connection is hot or warm to the touch that is a poor connection that can cause a slow crank of hard start David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 10, 2011, at 2:46 PM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > Car reluctant to start. Very little juice. Went to put on battery > charger and > noticed that positive connector was quite warm. Something in the > back of my > mind says I should know what this means. But as I approach my 73 > birthday I > canbt always grab these thoughts and knowledge from the air around > my head. > > I am sure there is someone out there younger than me who will > remember. > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Aug 10 19:10:45 2011 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 18:10:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] starting problem In-Reply-To: <699F795B-87BE-4C64-B11F-FE49C9D35BF0@sbcglobal.net> References: <699F795B-87BE-4C64-B11F-FE49C9D35BF0@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1129EEC8-A01C-4778-B337-B8C51ED36B63@gmail.com> To add to David's post with battery cables due to corrosion they can build resistance internally. After you clean the connections if the cables are still warm this would indicate resistance in the cable itself. At this point replacement of the cable would be in order. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 10, 2011, at 15:40, David Nock wrote: > Any time a electrical connection is hot or warm to the touch that is > a poor connection that can cause a slow crank of hard start > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . > > On Aug 10, 2011, at 2:46 PM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > >> Car reluctant to start. Very little juice. Went to put on battery >> charger and >> noticed that positive connector was quite warm. Something in the >> back of my >> mind says I should know what this means. But as I approach my 73 >> birthday I >> canbt always grab these thoughts and knowledge from the air around >> my head. >> >> I am sure there is someone out there younger than me who will >> remember. >> >> Carl >> BN-4(L) >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Aug 10 20:31:33 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 19:31:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location Message-ID: <1313029893.28688.YahooMailClassic@web180601.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> As the body of my BN2 is being finished up prior to painting, the last of the welding is being done. The front left side bracket for the lower link had to be replaced, but The body man welded it in the wrong place. Anyone have any measurements as to where this bracket goes? Mike MacLean From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 10 22:05:15 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 21:05:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <1313029893.28688.YahooMailClassic@web180601.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313029893.28688.YahooMailClassic@web180601.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E4354FB.8020107@comcast.net> Mike, I can't get you a measurement--my BN2's 90 miles away--but I have some ideas. I have a front left bracket that's been bent a little and I've contemplated how this could be done. First, I think it's difficult to get an accurate measurement since there isn't a definitive reference point, and the motor mounts are in the way IIRC. The best way, I think, would be to tack weld some 'fingers' to the surrounding chassis to locate the old bracket before you remove it (assuming the old is not bent up too much). Then, you align the new bracket to the fingers, weld it in then grind the fingers off. Since your front bracket is already gone, you could bolt the lower spring plate to the A-arms, mount the new bracket on the front A-arm and anchor the rear A-arm in its bracket (sort of like using the A-arm like a compass to set correct distance between the two brackets). That should give fairly accurate front-rear placement, and I don't think there's much leeway on the in-out placement (it'll be where the backside of the bracket sits flush against the chassis rail). Also, I don't have the shop manual here, but I think there might be a chassis diagram that might have the measurements in it. If you still need measurements, I'll have access to our BN2 chassis this weekend. Bob On 8/10/2011 7:31 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > As the body of my BN2 is being finished up prior to painting, the last of the > welding is being done. The front left side bracket for the lower link had to > be replaced, but The body man welded it in the wrong place. Anyone have any > measurements as to where this bracket goes? > Mike MacLean > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Aug 10 23:15:36 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 22:15:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <4E4354FB.8020107@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1313039736.67730.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> The problem is that he has already welded it in the wrong location. I am going there tomorrow or Friday and taking the lower a-arm assembly to use to show him. I just wanted a measurement to back this up. A few years ago I bought a frame dimension diagram for the BN1/2 from BCS, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Anyone know what book this measurement may be in? Mike MacLean --- On Thu, 8/11/11, Bob Spidell wrote: From: Bob Spidell Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 4:05 AM Mike, I can't get you a measurement--my BN2's 90 miles away--but I have some ideas. I have a front left bracket that's been bent a little and I've contemplated how this could be done. First, I think it's difficult to get an accurate measurement since there isn't a definitive reference point, and the motor mounts are in the way IIRC. The best way, I think, would be to tack weld some 'fingers' to the surrounding chassis to locate the old bracket before you remove it (assuming the old is not bent up too much). Then, you align the new bracket to the fingers, weld it in then grind the fingers off. Since your front bracket is already gone, you could bolt the lower spring plate to the A-arms, mount the new bracket on the front A-arm and anchor the rear A-arm in its bracket (sort of like using the A-arm like a compass to set correct distance between the two brackets). That should give fairly accurate front-rear placement, and I don't think there's much leeway on the in-out placement (it'll be where the backside of the bracket sits flush against the chassis rail). Also, I don't have the shop manual here, but I think there might be a chassis diagram that might have the measurements in it. If you still need measurements, I'll have access to our BN2 chassis this weekend. Bob On 8/10/2011 7:31 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > As the body of my BN2 is being finished up prior to painting, the last of the > welding is being done. The front left side bracket for the lower link had to > be replaced, but The body man welded it in the wrong place. Anyone have any > measurements as to where this bracket goes? > Mike MacLean From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Aug 11 01:22:45 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:22:45 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] starting problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E438345.4090004@chello.nl> Look for corroded or loose battery terminals/clamps first, check terminal leads for damage. If all OK, have the battery checked, could be an internal short. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 11 06:44:14 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 08:44:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <1313039736.67730.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <4E4354FB.8020107@comcast.net> <1313039736.67730.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000901cc5824$60cc2400$22646c00$@net> Mike, The frame dimensions for the front suspension mounts will be the same relative to the shock tower, etc. as the six cylinder models and there are basic dimensions for that in all the six cylinder manuals. Just be aware that the mounts are canted a bit and are not quite square to the chassis rails. Also, can you not get dimensions from the other side? Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 2011-08-11 1:16 To: healeys at autox.team.net; Bob Spidell Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location The problem is that he has already welded it in the wrong location. I am going there tomorrow or Friday and taking the lower a-arm assembly to use to show him. I just wanted a measurement to back this up. A few years ago I bought a frame dimension diagram for the BN1/2 from BCS, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Anyone know what book this measurement may be in? Mike MacLean From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 08:10:10 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 15:10:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Problem - Update Message-ID: Team Since my latest mail to the list I have found what I believe to be the root cause of the tight spot being off centre in my steering column. I have found that the drop shaft splines at the bottom of the shaft have a slight twist in them which causes the Pitman arm to be set a few degrees further to the right than it should be. This is probably from crash damage in the past in which some serious impact torque was put into the drop shaft. That would certainly result in the worm being off centre when the wheels are straight ahead. I will put pictures on the Forum to illustrate. I really should have found the distortion prior to installation, however the box was a rebuilt exchange unit I bought some years ago to replace the LHD version that came with my project car. I assumed it would be good and didn't strip it to check. My DWR column/worm assembly arrived today which has to be a good upgrade anyway. I will also be using a replacement drop arm so that I get equal left/right split of the available travel. I haven't driven the car far enough to notice, but if the tight spot in the centre of the worm is way off to the right that probably restricts the amount of left lock remaining. I will be re-installing the steering box this weekend. _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Aug 11 09:29:58 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 08:29:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <000901cc5824$60cc2400$22646c00$@net> Message-ID: <1313076598.65360.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Rich, I argued this with the body guy yesterday. He is going by another 100 in the shop that has the two brackets in slightly different locations. You and I know they are supposed to be symmetrical, but I have to convince this guy. Today I am bringing the lower a-arms that have not been disassembled or rebuilt yet and fit them up to the car to show him how one side fits and the other does not. I'll report back to the list. Mike --- On Thu, 8/11/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: Also, can you not get dimensions from the other side? Rich -----Original Message----- The problem is that he has already welded it in the wrong location. I am going there tomorrow or Friday and taking the lower a-arm assembly to use to show him. I just wanted a measurement to back this up. A few years ago I bought a frame dimension diagram for the BN1/2 from BCS, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Anyone know what book this measurement may be in? Mike MacLean From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Aug 11 09:36:28 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 08:36:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set Message-ID: <1313076988.66529.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron panel set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and vertical panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These were to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Thu Aug 11 10:00:00 2011 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:00:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <1313029893.28688.YahooMailClassic@web180601.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313029893.28688.YahooMailClassic@web180601.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1313078400.26948.YahooMailNeo@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, I had a similar issue on my BN2, the front of the left rail just before the shock tower was replaced and the front left mount welded mostly too high. To compensate and to get the camber right the rear left mount was welded inboard. The shock mount plate was welded a bit inboard as well. The camber and caster checked out fine but the problem surfaced when I started to mount the front suspension and installed the spring, the spring pan did not clear the frame as it did on the right side. I compared left and right and found a difference of 3/8", the rear mount too much inboard. I also double-checked with a club member's car and with a chassis blueprint I got from Larry Varley's site. http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/healeydraw.html The blueprint is from a 6 cyl but as Rich indicated the front-suspension is identical. I'll attach the blueprint to this email. I printed sections from this blueprint from within photoshop or gimp in 1:2 scale. I can re-scan the blueprint partial print-outs and email them to you if you like. They should print out ok on a regular printer, I can also post copies in the mail. My measurements are on there as well. The new mounts and shock plate were tacked on the frame, the whole front suspension (shock and a-arms, swivel, kingpin, hub) mounted and camber/caster measured. When we were happy with the setup, it was welded in place. After paint retouch the left suspension went on fine this time. Note there are 2 holes in the shock tower, you should be able to put a suitable rod through the front mount, tower and rear mount. This might have been used to jig or double-check at the factory. It was impossible to do this on my car before the fix. Best of luck, Bert ________________________________ From: Michael MacLean To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 7:31 PM Subject: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location As the body of my BN2 is being finished up prior to painting, the last of the welding is being done. The front left side bracket for the lower link had to be replaced, but The body man welded it in the wrong place. Anyone have any measurements as to where this bracket goes? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/tiff which had a name of chassis.tif] From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 11 10:08:02 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:08:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <1313076598.65360.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313076598.65360.YahooMailClassic@web180609.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <25E32820-8BD9-4324-A9C5-148AC906B20A@sbcglobal.net> The location of the Lower A arm brackets is in the Factory service manual for the 6 cylinder cars. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 11, 2011, at 8:29 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Rich, > I argued this with the body guy yesterday. He is going by > another 100 in > the shop that has the two brackets in slightly different > locations. You and I > know they are supposed to be symmetrical, but I have to convince > this guy. > Today I am bringing the lower a-arms that have not been > disassembled or > rebuilt yet and fit them up to the car to show him how one side > fits and the > other does not. I'll report back to the list. > Mike > > --- On Thu, 8/11/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: > > > Also, can you not get dimensions from the other side? > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > > > > The problem is that he has already welded it in the wrong > location. I am > going there tomorrow or Friday and taking the lower a-arm assembly > to use to > show him. I just wanted a measurement to back this up. A few > years ago I > bought a frame dimension diagram for the BN1/2 from BCS, but I > can't seem to > find it anywhere. Anyone know what book this measurement may be in? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From agrossman at pacific.net Thu Aug 11 10:16:57 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:16:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot Message-ID: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> I have this new to me '58 100 6. Has been "restored' by po, but I have no reciepts. Hits about 200 on the gauge after moderate driving in mid 80s ambient weather. Does not seem to get much hotter at idle. Fan belt is tight. Looking in thru the radiator filler tubes look open and fresh as far as I can see. I haven't checked timing, but the car starts on the button, and does not detonate, so I don't think it is off enough to cause problems. Rolls well, so I don't think I have a binding brake. Looking for some insight/direction. Thanks, Alan From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 11:34:36 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 10:34:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: <1313076988.66529.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313076988.66529.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, Yes they were used on the BN2s. Only the early BN1s did not have them. I know that body number 338 did not have them. Do you still need the NOS splash apron? Curt On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron > panel > set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and > vertical > panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These > were > to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Thu Aug 11 11:48:58 2011 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 12:48:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003d01cc584e$f2afe990$d80fbcb0$@qwest.net> Jose When I rebuilt a couple of overdrives a while back I installed updated actuator pistons that use an O ring seal instead of the metal rings. The cost of the new pistons and O rings was about the same as the new rings alone. Herb Miller 1962 BT7 1967 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 8:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings Does anyone sales the overdrive pistons ring in the US? It is for the original pistons.... Thanks Jose Sent from my iPad Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3824 - Release Date: 08/09/11 From agrossman at pacific.net Thu Aug 11 12:10:58 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 11:10:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot In-Reply-To: <887475088-1313082852-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-655346907-@b3.c3.bise6.blackberry> References: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> <887475088-1313082852-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-655346907-@b3.c3.bise6.blackberry> Message-ID: <7C9D7E2D44C94042B923CFC5521FA55A@AlanPC> Thanks for all the replys. I didn't know that too "rich" a coolant mix could would make it run hooter, and it does look awfully deep green. I think I should start with a temp check (duh!) for a baseline; and then change coolant mix.. So I am looking at ir thermometers on evilBay, and I notice some are pretty low priced. Can anyone comment on the wisdom of going cheap, on a tool I will only use 5 or 6 times a year, at best. Again thanks, Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Alan Grossman" Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Runnin' hot > First find out if the gauge is accurate. Does it show 212 with sensor in > boiling water? Or use known thermometer in radiator to cross check. > > If you are running "too rich" an antifreeze mixture it will run hotter but > the boiling point will be higher, too > > -Roland > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T > > -----Original Message----- > From: "Alan Grossman" > Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 09:16:57 > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot > > I have this new to me '58 100 6. Has been "restored' by po, but I have no > reciepts. > Hits about 200 on the gauge after moderate driving in mid 80s ambient > weather. > Does not seem to get much hotter at idle. Fan belt is tight. Looking in > thru > the radiator filler tubes look open and fresh as far as I can see. I > haven't > checked timing, but the car starts on the button, and does not detonate, > so I > don't think it is off enough to cause problems. Rolls well, so I don't > think I > have a binding brake. > > Looking for some insight/direction. > > Thanks, Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rwil at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 11 12:40:01 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:40:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> They're painted body color, no? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Mike, Yes they were used on the BN2s. Only the early BN1s did not have them. I know that body number 338 did not have them. Do you still need the NOS splash apron? Curt On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron > panel > set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and > vertical > panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These > were > to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 11 12:54:28 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:54:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot In-Reply-To: <7C9D7E2D44C94042B923CFC5521FA55A@AlanPC> Message-ID: <344556375.474556.1313088868349.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> One of the major topics (along with 'which oil,' 'which tires,' etc.). Healeys tend to run hot, probably due to being underradiated with not-too-good airflow through the engine compartment (hence louvers, gills, etc.). If block, radiator and coolant are clean, check timing, water pump, thermostat and mixture. If those are good, possible remedies include: 1) better fan (SS flex work best but can be noisy, 'Texas Cooler' type plastic fans work OK and aren't quite as noisy) 2) shroud and/or baffling around radiator and fan 3) wrap or coating on exhaust manifold and downpipes 4) 'Water Wetter' or similar in coolant might get a couple degrees Water has better heat transfer characteristics than anti-freeze; if coolant mixture has too much anti-freeze (over 50%) you lose some cooling capacity. If you live/drive in an area that never/rarely freezes a 60/40 water/AF or even a 70/30 mixture should be fine. I've tried most/all the available remedies (except for gills/louvers) and my BJ8's temp will creep up at idle on hot days; otherwise it's tolerable. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Thanks for all the replys. I didn't know that too "rich" a coolant mix could would make it run hooter, and it does look awfully deep green. I think I should start with a temp check (duh!) for a baseline; and then change coolant mix.. So I am looking at ir thermometers on evilBay, and I notice some are pretty low priced. Can anyone comment on the wisdom of going cheap, on a tool I will only use 5 or 6 times a year, at best. Again thanks, Alan From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 13:16:48 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 12:16:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Yes, they were painted body color UNLESS you have a white BN1/2 and then like the engine compartment they would be painted black. Confused yet? See the chassis restoration photos of Sara Frost's BN2 on the Forever Healeys website for some good pictures on how this is done. Curt On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > They're painted body color, no? > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > ------------------------------ > ** > > Mike, > > Yes they were used on the BN2s. Only the early BN1s did not have them. I > know that body number 338 did not have them. > > Do you still need the NOS splash apron? > > Curt > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Michael MacLean >wrote: > > > Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron > > panel > > set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and > > vertical > > panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These > > were > > to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? > > Mike MacLean > > 56 BN2 > > 60 AN5 From Healey100M at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 13:30:36 2011 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 15:30:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: References: <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8064FD99-FBE3-45D5-997E-D14C7D435520@gmail.com> ahhh... but not all white BN1/2 engine compartments were painted black. Wasn't painted black in the minority? Randy PS: drove the 'new' 100M for the first time yesterday. Surprisingly good after being store since '75. :-) On Aug 11, 2011, at 3:16 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Yes, they were painted body color UNLESS you have a white BN1/2 and then > like the engine compartment they would be painted black. > > Confused yet? See the chassis restoration photos of Sara Frost's BN2 on the > Forever Healeys website for some good pictures on how this is done. > > Curt > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> They're painted body color, no? >> >> Bob >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >> >> ------------------------------ >> ** >> >> Mike, >> >> Yes they were used on the BN2s. Only the early BN1s did not have them. I >> know that body number 338 did not have them. >> >> Do you still need the NOS splash apron? >> >> Curt >> >> On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Michael MacLean >> wrote: >> >>> Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron >>> panel >>> set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and >>> vertical >>> panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These >>> were >>> to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? >>> Mike MacLean >>> 56 BN2 >>> 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 13:37:32 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 20:37:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Problme - Update. Message-ID: Photos are on the Healey Forum site. Tiny URL below. _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From mdoust at abarth.ca Thu Aug 11 13:47:17 2011 From: mdoust at abarth.ca (Mark) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 15:47:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Apron Panel Set Message-ID: <001b01cc585f$79c51bc0$6d4f5340$@ca> My never touched BN1 which is white has black engine compartment Cheers Mark -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: August-11-11 3:31 PM To: Curt/Nancy Arndt Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set ahhh... but not all white BN1/2 engine compartments were painted black. Wasn't painted black in the minority? Randy PS: drove the 'new' 100M for the first time yesterday. Surprisingly good after being store since '75. :-) On Aug 11, 2011, at 3:16 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Yes, they were painted body color UNLESS you have a white BN1/2 and then > like the engine compartment they would be painted black. > > Confused yet? See the chassis restoration photos of Sara Frost's BN2 on the > Forever Healeys website for some good pictures on how this is done. > > Curt > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> They're painted body color, no? >> >> Bob >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >> >> ------------------------------ >> ** >> >> Mike, >> >> Yes they were used on the BN2s. Only the early BN1s did not have them. I >> know that body number 338 did not have them. >> >> Do you still need the NOS splash apron? >> >> Curt >> >> On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Michael MacLean >> wrote: >> >>> Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron >>> panel >>> set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and >>> vertical >>> panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These >>> were >>> to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? >>> Mike MacLean >>> 56 BN2 >>> 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mdoust at abarth.ca From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 14:11:12 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 13:11:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: <8064FD99-FBE3-45D5-997E-D14C7D435520@gmail.com> References: <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8064FD99-FBE3-45D5-997E-D14C7D435520@gmail.com> Message-ID: Randy, We are still not certain but I've personally seen more white 100s with the black engine compartment than not. In fact I cannot recall ever seeing one that was not black. If anyone has a documented case, please let myself Rich, Roger or any member of the Concours Committee know, and send pictures. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 12:30 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > ahhh... but not all white BN1/2 engine compartments were painted black. > Wasn't painted black in the minority? > > Randy > > PS: drove the 'new' 100M for the first time yesterday. Surprisingly good > after being store since '75. :-) > > On Aug 11, 2011, at 3:16 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > > > Yes, they were painted body color UNLESS you have a white BN1/2 and then > > like the engine compartment they would be painted black. > > > > Confused yet? See the chassis restoration photos of Sara Frost's BN2 on > the > > Forever Healeys website for some good pictures on how this is done. > > > > Curt > > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > >> They're painted body color, no? > >> > >> Bob > >> > >> -------------------------------- > >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > >> > >> ------------------------------ > >> ** > >> > >> Mike, > >> > >> Yes they were used on the BN2s. Only the early BN1s did not have them. > I > >> know that body number 338 did not have them. > >> > >> Do you still need the NOS splash apron? > >> > >> Curt > >> > >> On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Michael MacLean < > rrengineer.mike at att.net > >>> wrote: > >> > >>> Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron > >>> panel > >>> set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and > >>> vertical > >>> panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. > These > >>> were > >>> to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? > >>> Mike MacLean > >>> 56 BN2 > >>> 60 AN5 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Aug 11 14:15:24 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 13:15:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <25E32820-8BD9-4324-A9C5-148AC906B20A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1313093724.67796.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> David, The only factory service manual for 6 cylinder cars I have is an original 100/6 blue binder factory service manual. I don't seem to find any frame dimensions in it at all. Mike --- On Thu, 8/11/11, David Nock wrote: From: David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location To: "Michael MacLean" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, "'Bob Spidell'" , "Rich Chrysler" Date: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 4:08 PM The location of the Lower A arm brackets is in the Factory service manual for the 6 cylinder cars. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 11, 2011, at 8:29 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Rich, I argued this with the body guy yesterday. He is going by another 100 inthe shop that has the two brackets in slightly different locations. You and Iknow they are supposed to be symmetrical, but I have to convince this guy. Today I am bringing the lower a-arms that have not been disassembled orrebuilt yet and fit them up to the car to show him how one side fits and theother does not. I'll report back to the list.Mike --- On Thu, 8/11/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: Also, can you not get dimensions from the other side? Rich -----Original Message----- The problem is that he has already welded it in the wrong location. I amgoing there tomorrow or Friday and taking the lower a-arm assembly to use toshow him. I just wanted a measurement to back this up. A few years ago Ibought a frame dimension diagram for the BN1/2 from BCS, but I can't seem tofind it anywhere. Anyone know what book this measurement may be in?Mike MacLean_______________________________________________Healeys at autox.team.netD onate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 11 14:28:47 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 13:28:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <1313093724.67796.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313093724.67796.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <985BC4AD-0F23-4C17-AE63-ED1B975AB287@sbcglobal.net> Back of the book section R David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 11, 2011, at 1:15 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > David, > The only factory service manual for 6 cylinder cars I have is > an original 100/6 blue binder factory service manual. I don't seem > to find any frame dimensions in it at all. > Mike > > --- On Thu, 8/11/11, David Nock wrote: > > From: David Nock > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location > To: "Michael MacLean" > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, "'Bob Spidell'" , > "Rich Chrysler" > Date: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 4:08 PM > > The location of the Lower A arm brackets is in the Factory service > manual for the 6 cylinder cars. > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . > > On Aug 11, 2011, at 8:29 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > >> Rich, >> I argued this with the body guy yesterday. He is going by >> another 100 in >> the shop that has the two brackets in slightly different >> locations. You and I >> know they are supposed to be symmetrical, but I have to convince >> this guy. >> Today I am bringing the lower a-arms that have not been >> disassembled or >> rebuilt yet and fit them up to the car to show him how one side >> fits and the >> other does not. I'll report back to the list. >> Mike >> >> --- On Thu, 8/11/11, Rich Chrysler >> wrote: >> >> >> Also, can you not get dimensions from the other side? >> >> Rich >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> >> >> The problem is that he has already welded it in the wrong >> location. I am >> going there tomorrow or Friday and taking the lower a-arm assembly >> to use to >> show him. I just wanted a measurement to back this up. A few >> years ago I >> bought a frame dimension diagram for the BN1/2 from BCS, but I >> can't seem to >> find it anywhere. Anyone know what book this measurement may be in? >> Mike MacLean >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Aug 11 14:33:21 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 13:33:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <985BC4AD-0F23-4C17-AE63-ED1B975AB287@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1313094801.95945.YahooMailClassic@web180608.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hey, pretty funny. This book only goes to "Q". No listing for a section"R" in the index. Maybe a later edition, this one is book 97H.1489, dated May 1957. Mike --- On Thu, 8/11/11, David Nock wrote: From: David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location To: "Michael MacLean" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, "'Bob Spidell'" , "Rich Chrysler" Date: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 8:28 PM Back of the book section R David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 11, 2011, at 1:15 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: David, The only factory service manual for 6 cylinder cars I have is an original 100/6 blue binder factory service manual. I don't seem to find any frame dimensions in it at all. Mike --- On Thu, 8/11/11, David Nock wrote: From: David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location To: "Michael MacLean" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, "'Bob Spidell'" , "Rich Chrysler" Date: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 4:08 PM The location of the Lower A arm brackets is in the Factory service manual for the 6 cylinder cars. David NockBritish Car SpecialistsStockton Ca 95205209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com.. On Aug 11, 2011, at 8:29 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Rich, I argued this with the body guy yesterday. He is going by another 100 inthe shop that has the two brackets in slightly different locations. You and Iknow they are supposed to be symmetrical, but I have to convince this guy. Today I am bringing the lower a-arms that have not been disassembled orrebuilt yet and fit them up to the car to show him how one side fits and theother does not. I'll report back to the list.Mike --- On Thu, 8/11/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: Also, can you not get dimensions from the other side? Rich -----Original Message----- The problem is that he has already welded it in the wrong location. I amgoing there tomorrow or Friday and taking the lower a-arm assembly to use toshow him. I just wanted a measurement to back this up. A few years ago Ibought a frame dimension diagram for the BN1/2 from BCS, but I can't seem tofind it anywhere. Anyone know what book this measurement may be in?Mike MacLean_______________________________________________Healeys at autox.team.netD onate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From raymead at comcast.net Thu Aug 11 15:07:47 2011 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 21:07:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] A/D Overdrive Oil Pressure Guage for sale - BRAND NEW Message-ID: <1579705058.90628.1313096867632.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> hi all, i have one i bought last year that has never been used!B Brand new condition. Email me off-line if interested. tks, ray From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 11 15:48:27 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:48:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: <1313076988.66529.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313076988.66529.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cc5870$671a2590$354e70b0$@net> Mike, Yes, of course, absolutely. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 2011-08-11 11:36 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron panel set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and vertical panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These were to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 11 15:56:52 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:56:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: References: <1313076988.66529.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000101cc5871$940a3f30$bc1ebd90$@net> Curt, I cannot explain what you found on Body 338 but the horizontal panel was used on all from the preproduction cars on through. The vertical panel, however was not introduced for some time. Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: 2011-08-11 1:35 To: Michael MacLean Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set Mike, Yes they were used on the BN2s. Only the early BN1s did not have them. I know that body number 338 did not have them. Do you still need the NOS splash apron? Curt On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron > panel > set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and > vertical > panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These > were > to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 11 16:12:34 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:12:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: References: <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000801cc5873$c5d9f260$518dd720$@net> Curt, et al, Sorry I have to disagree here on what Curt states regarding the white Hundreds. Yes, it's certainly true they were often painted black in the engine bay, etc. but I have seen a number of originals that were simply the standard body colour white all through the engine bay as well as the inner apron panels. This went from early BN1's to quite late BN2's so again we should try to avoid saying the words "always" and "never". Rich Chrysler Curt said: Yes, they were painted body color UNLESS you have a white BN1/2 and then like the engine compartment they would be painted black. Confused yet? See the chassis restoration photos of Sara Frost's BN2 on the Forever Healeys website for some good pictures on how this is done. Curt On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > They're painted body color, no? > > Bob From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 17:05:39 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 16:05:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: <000801cc5873$c5d9f260$518dd720$@net> References: <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <000801cc5873$c5d9f260$518dd720$@net> Message-ID: Rich, I did not say that the white 100s did not have white engine bays, only that I could not personally recall ever seeing one. I know that others have observed that there were a number of cars that did not get the black in the engine bay. The question still remains as to what percentage. I never said "always" or "never". With regard to the radiator shrouds on the early 100s and specifically body number 338, once again the horizontal piece was there but not the vertical piece. This fact is well documented and I am well aware of it. Curt On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 3:12 PM, Rich C wrote: > > Curt, et al, > > Sorry I have to disagree here on what Curt states regarding the white > Hundreds. Yes, it's certainly true they were often painted black in the > engine bay, etc. but I have seen a number of originals that were simply the > standard body colour white all through the engine bay as well as the inner > apron panels. This went from early BN1's to quite late BN2's so again we > should try to avoid saying the words "always" and "never". > > Rich Chrysler > > Curt said: > > Yes, they were painted body color UNLESS you have a white BN1/2 and then > like the engine compartment they would be painted black. > > Confused yet? See the chassis restoration photos of Sara Frost's BN2 on > the > Forever Healeys website for some good pictures on how this is done. > > Curt > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > They're painted body color, no? > > > > Bob From ynotink at msn.com Thu Aug 11 17:07:26 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 23:07:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <1313029893.28688.YahooMailClassic@web180601.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313029893.28688.YahooMailClassic@web180601.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It should be symmetrical with the right side. Measure on the right and transfer the measurements to the left. Bill Lawrence > Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 19:31:33 -0700 > From: rrengineer.mike at att.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Fron A-Arm bracket location > > As the body of my BN2 is being finished up prior to painting, the last of the > welding is being done. The front left side bracket for the lower link had to > be replaced, but The body man welded it in the wrong place. Anyone have any > measurements as to where this bracket goes? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From cleona44 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 11 17:16:51 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 19:16:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: References: , <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, , <000801cc5873$c5d9f260$518dd720$@net>, Message-ID: What about the early Longbridge white cars. Don't forget them, there were also some black engine compartments with these white 2 port head BN4s jim lesher > Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 16:05:39 -0700 > From: cnaarndt at gmail.com > To: richchrysler at quickclic.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set > > Rich, > > I did not say that the white 100s did not have white engine bays, only that > I could not personally recall ever seeing one. I know that others have > observed that there were a number of cars that did not get the black in the > engine bay. The question still remains as to what percentage. I never said > "always" or "never". > > With regard to the radiator shrouds on the early 100s and specifically body > number 338, once again the horizontal piece was there but not the vertical > piece. This fact is well documented and I am well aware of it. > > Curt > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 3:12 PM, Rich C wrote: > > > > > Curt, et al, > > > > Sorry I have to disagree here on what Curt states regarding the white > > Hundreds. Yes, it's certainly true they were often painted black in the > > engine bay, etc. but I have seen a number of originals that were simply the > > standard body colour white all through the engine bay as well as the inner > > apron panels. This went from early BN1's to quite late BN2's so again we > > should try to avoid saying the words "always" and "never". > > > > Rich Chrysler > > > > Curt said: > > > > Yes, they were painted body color UNLESS you have a white BN1/2 and then > > like the engine compartment they would be painted black. > > > > Confused yet? See the chassis restoration photos of Sara Frost's BN2 on > > the > > Forever Healeys website for some good pictures on how this is done. > > > > Curt > > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell > > wrote: > > > > > They're painted body color, no? > > > > > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From agrossman at pacific.net Thu Aug 11 17:41:49 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 16:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot In-Reply-To: <4E444A3F.6010308@chello.nl> References: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> <4E444A3F.6010308@chello.nl> Message-ID: Again thanks to all. Turns out the gauge was reading high by at least 10 F. Also drained some coolant and replaced with water, and lowered the temp a bit. Really appreciate the help, stay tuned for my next questions. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "Alan Grossman" Cc: Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 2:31 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Runnin' hot > Check the accuracy of the gauge first, then check the opening > temperature of the thermostat in a pan of water with a good laboratory > thermometer and low heat to let the temperature of the water rise slowly. > The max. coolant temperature in the top of the radiator or cylinder head > should be about 10:C over the opening temperature of the thermostat. > Kees Oudesluijs From agrossman at pacific.net Thu Aug 11 17:48:22 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 16:48:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? Message-ID: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> This is 2 questions. My brake pedal stops about an inch above the floor. I have adjusted the brakes, replaced the front cyls. Checked the rears they are not weeping. Everything seemed to bleed well. The po states that he always had the problem of excessive travel( the adjusters were broken when I got the car). He rebuilt the master 3 times. I intend to replace it. Anything I am missing? Also the clutch pedal at rest is about an inch or more closer to the driver than the brake. This exacerbates the feeling of too much brake travel but is obviously not the problem. Should there be a stop that holds the clutch pedal in plane with the brake? Thanks, Alan From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Aug 11 15:31:43 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 23:31:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot In-Reply-To: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> References: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> Message-ID: <4E444A3F.6010308@chello.nl> Check the accuracy of the gauge first, then check the opening temperature of the thermostat in a pan of water with a good laboratory thermometer and low heat to let the temperature of the water rise slowly. The max. coolant temperature in the top of the radiator or cylinder head should be about 10:C over the opening temperature of the thermostat. Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 11 18:06:42 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 20:06:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: References: , <68137604.473947.1313088001667.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, , <000801cc5873$c5d9f260$518dd720$@net>, Message-ID: <000f01cc5883$b755b7f0$260127d0$@net> Jim, Right! Rich From: Jim Lesher [mailto:cleona44 at hotmail.com] Sent: 2011-08-11 7:17 To: Curt/Nancy Arndt; rich chrysler Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set What about the early Longbridge white cars. Don't forget them, there were also some black engine compartments with these white 2 port head BN4s jim lesher > Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 16:05:39 -0700 > From: cnaarndt at gmail.com > To: richchrysler at quickclic.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set > > Rich, > > I did not say that the white 100s did not have white engine bays, only that > I could not personally recall ever seeing one. I know that others have > observed that there were a number of cars that did not get the black in the > engine bay. The question still remains as to what percentage. I never said > "always" or "never". > > With regard to the radiator shrouds on the early 100s and specifically body > number 338, once again the horizontal piece was there but not the vertical > piece. This fact is well documented and I am well aware of it. > > Curt > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 3:12 PM, Rich C wrote: > > > > > Curt, et al, > > > > Sorry I have to disagree here on what Curt states regarding the white > > Hundreds. Yes, it's certainly true they were often painted black in the > > engine bay, etc. but I have seen a number of originals that were simply the > > standard body colour white all through the engine bay as well as the inner > > apron panels. This went from early BN1's to quite late BN2's so again we > > should try to avoid saying the words "always" and "never". > > > > Rich Chrysler > > > > Curt said: > > > > Yes, they were painted body color UNLESS you have a white BN1/2 and then > > like the engine compartment they would be painted black. > > > > Confused yet? See the chassis restoration photos of Sara Frost's BN2 on > > the > > Forever Healeys website for some good pictures on how this is done. > > > > Curt > > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell > > wrote: > > > > > They're painted body color, no? > > > > > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Aug 11 18:33:37 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 19:33:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? In-Reply-To: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> References: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> Message-ID: <07F11C652B43466DB4BF89CBCDBF809C@GregPC> Alan, please forgive if you are ahead of this, but we don't know unless we ask. Does the pedal "pump up" if you pump it a few times, if so the brakes are not fully bled Does it feel spongy down to the extended travel level or is it firm, if spongy may be air in system, or old hoses(?) that have some give in them. Check the mechanical linkage and pivots on the pedal etc. Excess wear multiplies to excess travel. Greg Lemon From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 11 18:36:27 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:36:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? In-Reply-To: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> References: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> Message-ID: <4E44758B.4000202@comcast.net> re: "Should there be a stop that holds the clutch pedal in plane with the brake?" Don't think so ... you might be effectively 'riding the clutch,' causing it to slip/wear. You can get shims that will displace the clutch M/C towards the front that would lower the pedal a bit. Re: the brakes; I think we need more info (car model, drum/disk, servo/no servo). Quick take: these cars' brakes are hard to bleed properly, that's where I would start (even though they 'seemed' to bleed). Bob On 8/11/2011 4:48 PM, Alan Grossman wrote: > This is 2 questions. > My brake pedal stops about an inch above the floor. I have adjusted the > brakes, replaced the front cyls. Checked the rears they are not weeping. > Everything seemed to bleed well. > > The po states that he always had the problem of excessive travel( the > adjusters were broken when I got the car). He rebuilt the master 3 times. I > intend to replace it. Anything I am missing? > > Also the clutch pedal at rest is about an inch or more closer to the driver > than the brake. This exacerbates the feeling of too much brake travel but is > obviously not the problem. Should there be a stop that holds the clutch pedal > in plane with the brake? > > Thanks, Alan > _______________________________________________ > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 18:55:01 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 10:55:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? In-Reply-To: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> References: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> Message-ID: <38EC9497-07E4-4982-9914-8752981405FB@gmail.com> Alan, did the PO mix up the brake and clutch master cyls? What model Healey? From memory The brake mcyl has a valve in it to retain pressure. Clutch doesn't. Or potentially wrong dia master cyl - power boosted BJ8's are a different mcyl to non boosted I think? Chris Sent from my iPhone On 12/08/2011, at 9:48 AM, "Alan Grossman" wrote: > This is 2 questions. > My brake pedal stops about an inch above the floor. I have adjusted > the > brakes, replaced the front cyls. Checked the rears they are not > weeping. > Everything seemed to bleed well. > > The po states that he always had the problem of excessive travel( the > adjusters were broken when I got the car). He rebuilt the master 3 > times. I > intend to replace it. Anything I am missing? > > Also the clutch pedal at rest is about an inch or more closer to the > driver > than the brake. This exacerbates the feeling of too much brake > travel but is > obviously not the problem. Should there be a stop that holds the > clutch pedal > in plane with the brake? > > Thanks, Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From agrossman at pacific.net Thu Aug 11 18:57:10 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:57:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? In-Reply-To: <4E44758B.4000202@comcast.net> References: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> <4E44758B.4000202@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9D82B23173D44030846CDB92F369E632@AlanPC> Of course I should have covered all that, thanks for asking. '58 100 6 with dual remote resevoir. No servo. Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "Alan Grossman" Cc: Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 5:36 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? > re: "Should there be a stop that holds the clutch pedal in plane with the > brake?" > > Don't think so ... you might be effectively 'riding the clutch,' causing > it to slip/wear. You can get shims that will displace the clutch M/C > towards the front that would lower the pedal a bit. > > Re: the brakes; I think we need more info (car model, drum/disk, servo/no > servo). Quick take: these cars' brakes are hard to bleed properly, that's > where I would start (even though they 'seemed' to bleed). > > Bob > > On 8/11/2011 4:48 PM, Alan Grossman wrote: >> This is 2 questions. >> My brake pedal stops about an inch above the floor. I have adjusted the >> brakes, replaced the front cyls. Checked the rears they are not weeping. >> Everything seemed to bleed well. >> >> The po states that he always had the problem of excessive travel( the >> adjusters were broken when I got the car). He rebuilt the master 3 >> times. I >> intend to replace it. Anything I am missing? >> >> Also the clutch pedal at rest is about an inch or more closer to the >> driver >> than the brake. This exacerbates the feeling of too much brake travel but >> is >> obviously not the problem. Should there be a stop that holds the clutch >> pedal >> in plane with the brake? >> >> Thanks, Alan >> _______________________________________________ >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From agrossman at pacific.net Thu Aug 11 18:59:44 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:59:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? In-Reply-To: <38EC9497-07E4-4982-9914-8752981405FB@gmail.com> References: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> <38EC9497-07E4-4982-9914-8752981405FB@gmail.com> Message-ID: Maybe? Can you tell me how to determine, or should check a parts catalog. The only thing I have right now is a Victoria Ltd. Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Dimmock" To: "Alan Grossman" Cc: Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 5:55 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? > Alan, did the PO mix up the brake and clutch master cyls? > What model Healey? > From memory The brake mcyl has a valve in it to retain pressure. Clutch > doesn't. > Or potentially wrong dia master cyl - power boosted BJ8's are a different > mcyl to non boosted I think? > Chris > Sent from my iPhone > > On 12/08/2011, at 9:48 AM, "Alan Grossman" wrote: > >> This is 2 questions. >> My brake pedal stops about an inch above the floor. I have adjusted the >> brakes, replaced the front cyls. Checked the rears they are not weeping. >> Everything seemed to bleed well. >> >> The po states that he always had the problem of excessive travel( the >> adjusters were broken when I got the car). He rebuilt the master 3 >> times. I >> intend to replace it. Anything I am missing? >> >> Also the clutch pedal at rest is about an inch or more closer to the >> driver >> than the brake. This exacerbates the feeling of too much brake travel >> but is >> obviously not the problem. Should there be a stop that holds the clutch >> pedal >> in plane with the brake? >> >> Thanks, Alan >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From agrossman at pacific.net Thu Aug 11 19:21:41 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:21:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? In-Reply-To: References: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC><38EC9497-07E4-4982-9914-8752981405FB@gmail.com> Message-ID: Solved the clutch issue. Just went to compare the m/c s in place. I noticed that the clutch pushrod was straining the boot. The po forgot the internal snap ring. I can see when it is in place the pedal will return to a more normal height. I'm glad I am re doing the brakes, I hope the po didn't go thru the engine ;-> Very grateful for all the input! Cheers, Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Grossman" To: Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 5:59 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? > Maybe? Can you tell me how to determine, or should check a parts catalog. > The only thing I have right now is a Victoria Ltd. > > Alan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Chris Dimmock" > To: "Alan Grossman" > Cc: > Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 5:55 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? > > >> Alan, did the PO mix up the brake and clutch master cyls? >> What model Healey? >> From memory The brake mcyl has a valve in it to retain pressure. Clutch >> doesn't. >> Or potentially wrong dia master cyl - power boosted BJ8's are a >> different mcyl to non boosted I think? >> Chris >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 12/08/2011, at 9:48 AM, "Alan Grossman" >> wrote: >> >>> This is 2 questions. >>> My brake pedal stops about an inch above the floor. I have adjusted the >>> brakes, replaced the front cyls. Checked the rears they are not >>> weeping. >>> Everything seemed to bleed well. >>> >>> The po states that he always had the problem of excessive travel( the >>> adjusters were broken when I got the car). He rebuilt the master 3 >>> times. I >>> intend to replace it. Anything I am missing? >>> >>> Also the clutch pedal at rest is about an inch or more closer to the >>> driver >>> than the brake. This exacerbates the feeling of too much brake travel >>> but is >>> obviously not the problem. Should there be a stop that holds the clutch >>> pedal >>> in plane with the brake? >>> >>> Thanks, Alan >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net From walt2727 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 11 19:26:21 2011 From: walt2727 at yahoo.com (Walt Peterson) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:26:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Help in Little Rock: Message-ID: <1313112381.24136.YahooMailClassic@web161425.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hey guys, I have a car that is Healey-related in Arkansas and might need a little help there there. Are there any Razobacks out there? Thanks in Advance. Walt From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 19:54:08 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 09:54:08 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot In-Reply-To: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> References: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> Message-ID: Alan - If you have a 190 deg thermostat, your car will run at this temperature. Swap to a 180, and it should be better. Also consider your guage may be a bit inaccurate. Confirm this stuff first before getting too deep into something else. Good luck - Alan On 8/12/11, Alan Grossman wrote: > I have this new to me '58 100 6. Has been "restored' by po, but I have no > reciepts. > Hits about 200 on the gauge after moderate driving in mid 80s ambient > weather. > Does not seem to get much hotter at idle. Fan belt is tight. Looking in thru > the radiator filler tubes look open and fresh as far as I can see. I haven't > checked timing, but the car starts on the button, and does not detonate, so > I > don't think it is off enough to cause problems. Rolls well, so I don't think > I > have a binding brake. > > Looking for some insight/direction. > > Thanks, Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From rwil at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 11 20:47:12 2011 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 19:47:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: <000101cc5871$940a3f30$bc1ebd90$@net> References: <1313076988.66529.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <000101cc5871$940a3f30$bc1ebd90$@net> Message-ID: Body 724 has the horizontal panel but no vertical panel and no holes to mount it, either. -Roland On Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:56:52 -0400, you wrote: ::Curt, :: ::I cannot explain what you found on Body 338 but the horizontal panel was ::used on all from the preproduction cars on through. The vertical panel, ::however was not introduced for some time. :: ::Rich Chrysler ::Hundred Registrar :: ::-----Original Message----- ::From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ::On Behalf Of Curt/Nancy Arndt ::Sent: 2011-08-11 1:35 ::To: Michael MacLean ::Cc: healeys at autox.team.net ::Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set :: ::Mike, :: ::Yes they were used on the BN2s. Only the early BN1s did not have them. I ::know that body number 338 did not have them. :: ::Do you still need the NOS splash apron? :: ::Curt :: ::On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:36 AM, Michael MacLean ::wrote: :: ::> Before I go to paint with my BN2 I need to know if I include the apron ::> panel ::> set for paint and installation. These are the 2 piece horizontal and ::> vertical ::> panels that are just forward of the radiator and behind the grill. These ::> were ::> to direct airflow to the radiator? Were these panels used on the BN2? ::> Mike MacLean ::> 56 BN2 ::> 60 AN5 ::> _______________________________________________ ::> Healeys at autox.team.net ::> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html ::> Suggested annual donation $12.75 ::> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ::> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums ::> Unsubscribe/Manage: ::> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com ::_______________________________________________ ::Healeys at autox.team.net ::Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html ::Suggested annual donation $12.75 ::Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ::Forums: http://www.team.net/forums ::Unsubscribe/Manage: ::http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net ::_______________________________________________ ::Healeys at autox.team.net ::Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html ::Suggested annual donation $12.75 ::Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ::Forums: http://www.team.net/forums ::Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rwil at sbcglobal.net From gbrierton at hotmail.com Thu Aug 11 21:58:23 2011 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 23:58:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set Message-ID: What was the function of the vertical panel? GaryB From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 11 22:02:02 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 12:02:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Pedal travel ? In-Reply-To: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> References: <74FA6A81C94D40638CDC3F5EFA1EA7F5@AlanPC> Message-ID: Alan - You have a drum brake car. Drum brakes require periodic shoe adjustment. If your front or rear shoes are not adjusted properly, you will get excessive pedal travel, as the MC will be pushing the fluid to the shoe that is backed off too far. Follow the adjustment procedure in your shop manual. The job is easy to do, but you'll have to jack up each wheel to do the adjustment. Alan On 8/12/11, Alan Grossman wrote: > This is 2 questions. > My brake pedal stops about an inch above the floor. I have adjusted the > brakes, replaced the front cyls. Checked the rears they are not weeping. > Everything seemed to bleed well. > > The po states that he always had the problem of excessive travel( the > adjusters were broken when I got the car). He rebuilt the master 3 times. I > intend to replace it. Anything I am missing? > > Also the clutch pedal at rest is about an inch or more closer to the driver > than the brake. This exacerbates the feeling of too much brake travel but is > obviously not the problem. Should there be a stop that holds the clutch > pedal > in plane with the brake? > > Thanks, Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 11 22:21:24 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 21:21:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E44AA44.3070704@comcast.net> Starting arguments on the Healey mailing list. On 8/11/2011 8:58 PM, gary brierton wrote: > What was the function of the vertical panel? > GaryB > _______________________________________________ > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rwil at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 11 23:15:38 2011 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 22:15:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: <4E44AA44.3070704@comcast.net> References: <4E44AA44.3070704@comcast.net> Message-ID: Now That made me laugh! -Roland On Thu, 11 Aug 2011 21:21:24 -0700, you wrote: ::Starting arguments on the Healey mailing list. :: :: :: ::On 8/11/2011 8:58 PM, gary brierton wrote: ::> What was the function of the vertical panel? ::> GaryB From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 00:15:58 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 08:15:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot In-Reply-To: References: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> Message-ID: Alan The thermostat does not determine the temperature at which the engine will run. It determines the temperature at which coolant is first allowed to circulate around the engine. Derek On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 3:54 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Alan - > > If you have a 190 deg thermostat, your car will run at this > temperature. Swap to a 180, and it should be better. Also consider > your guage may be a bit inaccurate. > > Confirm this stuff first before getting too deep into something else. > > Good luck - > > Alan > > On 8/12/11, Alan Grossman wrote: > > I have this new to me '58 100 6. Has been "restored' by po, but I have no > > reciepts. > > Hits about 200 on the gauge after moderate driving in mid 80s ambient > > weather. > > Does not seem to get much hotter at idle. Fan belt is tight. Looking in > thru > > the radiator filler tubes look open and fresh as far as I can see. I > haven't > > checked timing, but the car starts on the button, and does not detonate, > so > > I > > don't think it is off enough to cause problems. Rolls well, so I don't > think > > I > > have a binding brake. > > > > Looking for some insight/direction. > > > > Thanks, Alan > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From ynotink at msn.com Fri Aug 12 00:16:04 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 06:16:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The way I heard it Donald didn't like being able to look through the wheel wells from side to side and so put the vertical panel in as a visual break. Bill Lawrence > From: gbrierton at hotmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 23:58:23 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set > > What was the function of the vertical panel? > GaryB > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 00:41:16 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:41:16 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot In-Reply-To: References: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> Message-ID: Derek - If he has a standard reverse poppet 190 deg thermostat, the engine will run around 200 deg on warm days due to the 20% or so back leakage of hot water from the bypass galley in the head. It can't run any cooler than 190 deg. A 190 deg thermostat is meant to be used in winter anyway. Alan On 8/12/11, Derek Job wrote: > Alan > > The thermostat does not determine the temperature at which the engine will > run. It determines the temperature at which coolant is first allowed to > circulate around the engine. > > Derek > > On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 3:54 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> Alan - >> >> If you have a 190 deg thermostat, your car will run at this >> temperature. Swap to a 180, and it should be better. Also consider >> your guage may be a bit inaccurate. >> >> Confirm this stuff first before getting too deep into something else. >> >> Good luck - >> >> Alan >> >> On 8/12/11, Alan Grossman wrote: >> > I have this new to me '58 100 6. Has been "restored' by po, but I have >> > no >> > reciepts. >> > Hits about 200 on the gauge after moderate driving in mid 80s ambient >> > weather. >> > Does not seem to get much hotter at idle. Fan belt is tight. Looking in >> thru >> > the radiator filler tubes look open and fresh as far as I can see. I >> haven't >> > checked timing, but the car starts on the button, and does not detonate, >> so >> > I >> > don't think it is off enough to cause problems. Rolls well, so I don't >> think >> > I >> > have a binding brake. >> > >> > Looking for some insight/direction. >> > >> > Thanks, Alan >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > >> >> -- >> Sent from my mobile device >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> > -- Sent from my mobile device From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 00:41:58 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:41:58 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Runnin' hot In-Reply-To: References: <33A4E59616CC45D6A1BB1705CCA6762F@AlanPC> Message-ID: Incidentally, a thermostat will open and close all the time when the engine is running, depending on coolant temp. It doesn't just open in the beginning and stay open. Best, Alan On 8/12/11, Derek Job wrote: > Alan > > The thermostat does not determine the temperature at which the engine will > run. It determines the temperature at which coolant is first allowed to > circulate around the engine. > > Derek > > On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 3:54 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> Alan - >> >> If you have a 190 deg thermostat, your car will run at this >> temperature. Swap to a 180, and it should be better. Also consider >> your guage may be a bit inaccurate. >> >> Confirm this stuff first before getting too deep into something else. >> >> Good luck - >> >> Alan >> >> On 8/12/11, Alan Grossman wrote: >> > I have this new to me '58 100 6. Has been "restored' by po, but I have >> > no >> > reciepts. >> > Hits about 200 on the gauge after moderate driving in mid 80s ambient >> > weather. >> > Does not seem to get much hotter at idle. Fan belt is tight. Looking in >> thru >> > the radiator filler tubes look open and fresh as far as I can see. I >> haven't >> > checked timing, but the car starts on the button, and does not detonate, >> so >> > I >> > don't think it is off enough to cause problems. Rolls well, so I don't >> think >> > I >> > have a binding brake. >> > >> > Looking for some insight/direction. >> > >> > Thanks, Alan >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > >> >> -- >> Sent from my mobile device >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> > -- Sent from my mobile device From twillig at ruda.de Fri Aug 12 01:05:54 2011 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 09:05:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings In-Reply-To: <003d01cc584e$f2afe990$d80fbcb0$@qwest.net> References: <003d01cc584e$f2afe990$d80fbcb0$@qwest.net> Message-ID: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14E4@dw01.ruda.local> Jose, although they are in the UK and not in the US, look http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/ They sell the required rings for 35,00 pounds. Thomas Willig -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Herbert Miller [mailto:hgmiller3 at qwest.net] Gesendet: Donnerstag, 11. August 2011 19:49 An: 'Jose Vicente Vargas'; healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings Jose When I rebuilt a couple of overdrives a while back I installed updated actuator pistons that use an O ring seal instead of the metal rings. The cost of the new pistons and O rings was about the same as the new rings alone. Herb Miller 1962 BT7 1967 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 8:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings Does anyone sales the overdrive pistons ring in the US? It is for the original pistons.... Thanks Jose Sent from my iPad Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3824 - Release Date: 08/09/11 From gaagten at hetnet.nl Fri Aug 12 03:50:18 2011 From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 11:50:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A-H museum Message-ID: <4AD76DF284ED476A965C2605E6142726@Laptop> Hello list, I know that a couple of years ago this museum would be created in the USA. For one or other reason this was not happening. After that I red that all the stuff destined for this museum was shipped to Switserland. Never heard anything about this. Is there anybody on the list who knows the status of this project? Thanks and regards, Ge Aagten BJ8 The Netherlands From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Aug 12 05:51:41 2011 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 07:51:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A-H museum In-Reply-To: <4AD76DF284ED476A965C2605E6142726@Laptop> References: <4AD76DF284ED476A965C2605E6142726@Laptop> Message-ID: <8CE26FD55B3D254-2024-540BA@webmail-d151.sysops.aol.com> I got an email from a friend in March of this year that mentioned there was an upstart Healey museum in Holand. It was referred to as the Healey Museum aka Polo House. No further info was provided. A quick search on the net had this link: http://www.healeymuseum.nl/site/index.php?nb=12&l=e I'm not sure if this is the same effort. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Gaagten To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Aug 12, 2011 5:50 am Subject: [Healeys] A-H museum Hello list, I know that a couple of years ago this museum would be created in the USA. or one or other reason this was not happening. fter that I red that all the stuff destined for this museum was shipped to witserland. Never heard anything about this. s there anybody on the list who knows the status of this project? Thanks and regards, Ge Aagten J8 he Netherlands ______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: Gaagten To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Aug 12, 2011 5:50 am Subject: [Healeys] A-H museum Hello list, I know that a couple of years ago this museum would be created in the USA. or one or other reason this was not happening. fter that I red that all the stuff destined for this museum was shipped to witserland. Never heard anything about this. s there anybody on the list who knows the status of this project? Thanks and regards, Ge Aagten J8 he Netherlands ______________________________________________ From CAWS52803 at aol.com Fri Aug 12 06:15:53 2011 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 08:15:53 EDT Subject: [Healeys] A-H museum Message-ID: <98a8.70c0138c.3b767379@aol.com> Back a few years ago, my wife and I were at the ground breaking of the Healey Museum here in the US. Gerry & Marion Coker were the honored guests. It was to be at Virginia International Raceway. The land there was being donated by one VIR partner, Connie Nyholm, and the actual construction was to be done by her boyfriend. He owned several Healeys including a Silverstone. A s faith would have it, they broke up and the project dissipated. Never heard if any materials were gathered either. Never another word about a museum here. Rudy Streng Lenoir, NC BN4, AN5 From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 12 07:12:20 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 08:12:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings In-Reply-To: <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14E4@dw01.ruda.local> References: <003d01cc584e$f2afe990$d80fbcb0$@qwest.net> <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160E14E4@dw01.ruda.local> Message-ID: Thanks to all I decided to use the original pistons instead of the oring ones because i felt that the original ones had better clearance and the o ring one were too loose inside the cilinder I got the rings locally Jose Sent from my iPad On Aug 12, 2011, at 2:05 AM, "Thomas Willig" wrote: > Jose, > > although they are in the UK and not in the US, look http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/ > They sell the required rings for 35,00 pounds. > > Thomas Willig > > > > -----UrsprC Von: Herbert Miller [mailto:hgmiller3 at qwest.net] > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 11. August 2011 19:49 > An: 'Jose Vicente Vargas'; healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings > > Jose > When I rebuilt a couple of overdrives a while back I installed updated > actuator pistons that use an O ring seal instead of the metal rings. The > cost of the new pistons and O rings was about the same as the new rings > alone. > Herb Miller > 1962 BT7 > 1967 BJ8 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas > Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 8:22 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BN2 overdrive piston rings > > Does anyone sales the overdrive pistons ring in the US? > > It is for the original pistons.... > > Thanks > > Jose > > > Sent from my iPad > > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3824 - Release Date: 08/09/11 From 55healey at comcast.net Fri Aug 12 10:01:24 2011 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 09:01:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <95C627B8-9CE0-46D0-942B-E66096A06D0E@comcast.net> Never had one in my '55 and bought a replacement but still can't figure out how to get the thing in there. Do you need to remove the grill? what is the sequence, horizontal panel and then add the vertical? The steering linkage, horns and everything else seems to be in the way. I can see why the PO left it out. Is it really necessary for cooling or is it just cosmetic? Rob Westcott On Aug 11, 2011, at 11:16 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > The way I heard it Donald didn't like being able to look through the > wheel > wells from side to side and so put the vertical panel in as a visual > break. > > Bill Lawrence > >> From: gbrierton at hotmail.com >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 23:58:23 -0400 >> Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set >> >> What was the function of the vertical panel? >> GaryB From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 10:22:08 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 11:22:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] very nice BJ7 available Message-ID: if any of your friends or neighbor's are looking for that special 3000, refer them to the member's cars for sale on the ntahc website www.ntahc.org i represent the estate in the sale of this Healey. cheers, -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 10:45:14 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 12:45:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 Message-ID: Last time, 2 weeks ago, drove car, everything was fine. Only change during that time was to make electrical changes to tach and hook it up. Had not done this since neg ground conversion. Now here is what I have: voltage at battery 12.3 v. voltage at starter 12.3 v, no drop here. The car acts like there is not even a battery in it., totally dead electrically in every way. What I have done so far is make sure that batt cut off switch was not turned to off. seemed to remember that blk wht wire at cut off switch could short, so took it off. Neither of these made a difference. Have been under the dash looking to see if I had disconnected something there, found nothing. Is 12.3 v so low that nothing will work? Or is there something else I should be considering? TIA, Bob Johnson BJ8 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:19 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 09:57:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vintage Land Rover for sale Message-ID: Hello all, If you know anyone looking for a great Land Rover Series III, I have mine posted on ebay 320742333862. Yes to you from Non-US locations, prices here in the States are high. No need to comment. Please email me off list with questions or leads. Please forward to any list or person. I have receipts for over $41K in work paid for by previous owner. Little IT work and dwindling funds forces sale. $100.00 reward for lead that results in a sale. reserve is $14,500. -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Aug 12 11:09:17 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 17:09:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1642149393.14196.1313168957659.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Run a jumper cable from the ground (neg) terminal on the battery to bare metal somewhere on the chassis. If things start to work the problem is in the cutoff switch (note: blk/wht wire on cutoff only prevents spark, won't stop cranking, lights, etc.). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Last time, 2 weeks ago, drove car, everything was fine. Only change during that time was to make electrical changes to tach and hook it up. Had not done this since neg ground conversion. Now here is what I have: voltage at battery 12.3 v. voltage at starter 12.3 v, no drop here. The car acts like there is not even a battery in it., totally dead electrically in every way. What I have done so far is make sure that batt cut off switch was not turned to off. seemed to remember that blk wht wire at cut off switch could short, so took it off. Neither of these made a difference. Have been under the dash looking to see if I had disconnected something there, found nothing. Is 12.3 v so low that nothing will work? Or is there something else I should be considering? TIA, Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ From kaynmike.bham at juno.com Fri Aug 12 11:29:58 2011 From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 17:29:58 GMT Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Electricals--Epilog Message-ID: <20110812.102958.7105.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> I posted a query about some oddities in the BN2 a while back (8-4) and as ever got some well thought out suggestions from the list. The problem was/is that the volt reg. had (again)died. It is a very long story that originated with a coil lead that somehow shorted and fried the regulator and upon looking at the area that burned away I couldn't resist "fixing" it. Got some fusible link material and soldered it together. Perfect-worked like a charm....Until the solder joint popped off. After that the reg. "worked" sporadically. Just recieved the new reg. from an outfit in Santa Barbara....starts with an "M". Not their fault, but got likely the "correct" screw terminal instead of the (incorrect") spade type. There is light at the end of the tunnel, though. THANKS to all of you for your great ideas. Mike Gougeon '56 BN2 From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Aug 12 11:57:52 2011 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 10:57:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 Message-ID: <002a01cc5919$5c2254b0$1466fe10$@com> Bob, 12.3 volts will run stuff. Can you narrow it down more? Here are some ideas. The horns and the lights are hot all the time - do they work? If not, is the upper left of the fuse box hot? Turn the ignition on - is the lower left of the fuse box hot? Can you undo the voltage reg from the firewall - are any of the links underneath it melted? Check the big brown wire coming off the solenoid - it's the one that goes to the regulator 'A' terminal and on to the upper left side of the fuse box. Does juice appear if you run a wire parallel with the brown wire above from the solenoid to the 'A' terminal? Bob Johnson wrote: <<< Last time, 2 weeks ago, drove car, everything was fine. Only change during that time was to make electrical changes to tach and hook it up. Had not done this since neg ground conversion. Now here is what I have: voltage at battery 12.3 v. voltage at starter 12.3 v, no drop here. The car acts like there is not even a battery in it., totally dead electrically in every way. What I have done so far is make sure that batt cut off switch was not turned to off. seemed to remember that blk wht wire at cut off switch could short, so took it off. Neither of these made a difference. Have been under the dash looking to see if I had disconnected something there, found nothing. Is 12.3 v so low that nothing will work? Or is there something else I should be considering? >>> -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA, USA BN6 From Editorgary at aol.com Fri Aug 12 12:10:05 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:10:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 579 Message-ID: <7b954.53194c5c.3b76c67d@aol.com> In a message dated 8/12/11 9:57:59 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Alan > > The thermostat does not determine the temperature at which the engine will > run. It determines the temperature at which coolant is first allowed to > circulate around the engine. > > Derek > Just for the fun of a semantic and logical argument on a Friday, the thermostat certain can determine the temperature of the engine. Try having it jam shut and see if that doesn't determine that the engine will run at over 212. Gary From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Aug 12 12:09:49 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:09:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 In-Reply-To: <1642149393.14196.1313168957659.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1642149393.14196.1313168957659.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <003b01cc591b$06c059c0$14410d40$@rr.com> Bob, while using the starter relay button to turn the engine for valve setting, I suddenly lost all electrical power. No starter, no lights, no horn, no nothing. My problem was a bad connection from the battery ground cable to the cutoff switch. I removed the cutoff switch and connected the battery cable directly to ground, and all was well. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 1:09 PM To: Bob Johnson Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 Run a jumper cable from the ground (neg) terminal on the battery to bare metal somewhere on the chassis. If things start to work the problem is in the cutoff switch (note: blk/wht wire on cutoff only prevents spark, won't stop cranking, lights, etc.). Bob From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 12 12:31:55 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:31:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set In-Reply-To: <95C627B8-9CE0-46D0-942B-E66096A06D0E@comcast.net> References: <95C627B8-9CE0-46D0-942B-E66096A06D0E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000301cc591e$1d585180$5808f480$@net> Rob, Yes, the horizontal panel is there to help direct air into the radiator. It also helps to tie in and stiffen the large area of otherwise unsupported metal from the top of the shroud lip at the bonnet opening all the way down to the pair of frame mounting irons at the bottom of the shroud. The grille needs to be removed by simply undoing the 5 nuts and special washers from the 5 studs across the top inner lip accessed from behind. With these 5 removed, press down slightly and pull the grille assembly forward from the top and then up from the bottom. Don't let the 5 studs catch the painted upper edge of the grille opening. The horizontal panel has notches to fit over the horn mounting bolts at the back edge of the panel, so loosen the horn mounting bolts to allow the notched flange to sandwich between the horn base and the cross member. At the front edge there are two countersunk Phillips head 10-32 screws that pass from shroud lower grille opening flange, through the apron, and are fastened there with flat washers, lock washers and nuts. In addition the two large vertical locating pegs in the bottom of the grill pass through a pair of locating holes in this horizontal panel. The horizontal panel is completely above all steering arms. The stator tube wiring cable comes out of the bottom of the steering box and loops back and down through a rubber grommet in the back corner of the apron where the harness continues to anchor with a P clip to the front face of the frame front cross member and finally plugs into it's appropriate connectors. The vertical dorsal panel mounts at the top with a single 10-32 Phillips screw with flat washers, lock washer and nut to the upper inner cross brace that also anchors the bonnet lip. At the bottom of the vertical dorsal panel, the horizontal flange has two holes to fit 10-32 screws with flat washers, lock washers and nuts. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robert westcott Sent: 2011-08-12 12:01 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set Never had one in my '55 and bought a replacement but still can't figure out how to get the thing in there. Do you need to remove the grill? what is the sequence, horizontal panel and then add the vertical? The steering linkage, horns and everything else seems to be in the way. I can see why the PO left it out. Is it really necessary for cooling or is it just cosmetic? Rob Westcott On Aug 11, 2011, at 11:16 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > The way I heard it Donald didn't like being able to look through the > wheel > wells from side to side and so put the vertical panel in as a visual > break. > > Bill Lawrence > >> From: gbrierton at hotmail.com >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 23:58:23 -0400 >> Subject: [Healeys] Apron Panel Set >> >> What was the function of the vertical panel? >> GaryB _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Galvin BN1-190.jpg] From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 12:58:47 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:58:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 In-Reply-To: <003b01cc591b$06c059c0$14410d40$@rr.com> References: <1642149393.14196.1313168957659.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003b01cc591b$06c059c0$14410d40$@rr.com> Message-ID: Starting to close in on it. Some years ago, for reasons that I don't recall at the moment (must have been something I read here), I installed a fuse in the brown wire between the solenoid and the regulator, which is now just a terminal box, fuse is/was Buss fuse AGC 30A. It is blown. I have no idea why I used 30A, probably just figured that something would have to be really wrong to blow it. Now that the car is neg grd and using an alternator, what amperage fuse, or should I not even use one because of the extra wire between the alt and the solenoid that then connects to the brown wire? Have tried all of the other suggestions so far, but just found this fuse and wondered, "hmmm, that could be a break in the brn circuit?" Shazam??? Bob Johnson BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 12 13:05:59 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 21:05:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 579 In-Reply-To: <7b954.53194c5c.3b76c67d@aol.com> References: <7b954.53194c5c.3b76c67d@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E457997.3050505@chello.nl> If the cooling system is in good order the thermostat is the /*only*/ device that regulates the running temperature of the engine. Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 12 13:21:09 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 21:21:09 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <1642149393.14196.1313168957659.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003b01cc591b$06c059c0$14410d40$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4E457D25.2070400@chello.nl> Remove the fuse or replace it with something much heavier like 60A, depending on the rating of the alternator. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 13:24:18 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 15:24:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <1642149393.14196.1313168957659.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003b01cc591b$06c059c0$14410d40$@rr.com> <004d01cc5924$3bb71250$b32536f0$@net> Message-ID: Just put in a 20a fuse that was lying around. Ev erything was fine. Now how to figure why the 30a fuse blew. Bob Johnson BJ8 On Aug 12, 2011 3:18 PM, "Bob Johnson" wrote: > Right > On Aug 12, 2011 3:15 PM, "John Trifari" wrote: >> Well Bob--like I said, sounds like a problem with a brown wire. John >> Trifari >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Bob Johnson >> Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 11:59 AM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 >> >> Starting to close in on it. Some years ago, for reasons that I don't >> recall at the moment (must have been something I read here), I >> installed a fuse in the brown wire between the solenoid and the >> regulator, which is now just a terminal box, fuse is/was Buss fuse AGC >> 30A. It is blown. I have no idea why I used 30A, probably just >> figured that something would have to be really wrong to blow it. Now >> that the car is neg grd and using an alternator, what amperage fuse, >> or should I not even use one because of the extra wire between the >> alt and the solenoid that then connects to the brown wire? >> >> Have tried all of the other suggestions so far, but just found this >> fuse and wondered, "hmmm, that could be a break in the brn circuit?" >> Shazam??? >> >> Bob Johnson >> BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtrifari at comcast.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 12 13:30:49 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 21:30:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Powerless BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <1642149393.14196.1313168957659.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003b01cc591b$06c059c0$14410d40$@rr.com> <004d01cc5924$3bb71250$b32536f0$@net> Message-ID: <4E457F69.1070000@chello.nl> The output of the alternator is just so much as is needed, so with a full battery and little load of lights, wipers, fans etc it may not reach 20A loading current. Try again with all the ancillaries working. The fuse will probably blow instantly. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From healeyron at yahoo.com Fri Aug 12 13:41:46 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 12:41:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Vintage Land Rover for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1313178106.25177.YahooMailNeo@web161007.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> The first 8 pictures are really tiny. From nine up there are viewable. Ron ________________________________ From: I Erbs To: Ahealey help Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 12:57 PM Subject: [Healeys] Vintage Land Rover for sale Hello all, If you know anyone looking for a great Land Rover Series III, I have mine posted on ebay 320742333862. Yes to you from Non-US locations, prices here in the States are high. No need to comment. Please email me off list with questions or leads. Please forward to any list or person. I have receipts for over $41K in work paid for by previous owner. Little IT work and dwindling funds forces sale. $100.00 reward for lead that results in a sale. reserve is $14,500. -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 13:53:16 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:53:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] very nice BJ7 available In-Reply-To: <003601cc5912$fd8ecf60$f8ac6e20$@net> References: <003601cc5912$fd8ecf60$f8ac6e20$@net> Message-ID: hi ron, no, it belonged to a member who fell and didn't survive a head injury. On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 12:11 PM, Ron Ray wrote: > HI Jerry, > > Is this Don Lenschow's car? > > Ron > > Ronald J. Ray, RA, CCS, CCCA > > Ray and Associates > 811 West 35th Street > Kansas City, Missouri 64111 > tel: 816-531-2707 > fax: 816-753-0285 > ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of jerry wall > Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 11:22 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] very nice BJ7 available > > if any of your friends or neighbor's are looking for that special 3000, > refer them to the member's cars for sale on the ntahc website > www.ntahc.org > i represent the estate in the sale of this Healey. > cheers, > > -- > jerry wall BN6 > rowlett, tx > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net > > > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From jhomonek at mindspring.com Fri Aug 12 14:54:47 2011 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 16:54:47 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] Think Cool. Healeys in the Fall! Can't Wait Message-ID: <5544182.1313182487864.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> The Atlanta Chapter of the AHCA is hosting SE Classic on October 20 b October 23, 2011 at Lake Guntersville State Park Resort, AL (NE corner of AL. Meet Special Guests: Gerry Coker (designer of Healeys), Marian Coker and Reid Trummel (editor of Healey Marque) Contact Sander Slomovic or Debbie Harrington at 678.595.5022 or dhandss at gmail.com for more information. Get the Registration Form at: www.atlantahealeys.org. This is the 25th year for SE Classic! Expect to see 100+ Healeys at this Healey only event! We have reserved the entire lodge for our Healey friends. The lodge overlooks Lake Guntersville and the mountains. Expect to see beautiful fall colors and enjoy cooler weather this time of year. We are planning many fun events: a Rallye through the mountains, a Popular Car Show, Gymkhana, Arts/Crafts and Funkhana. This regional event will be like a mini-Conclave or Rendezvous! Register Now and then Book Your Room for this once in a lifetime event! Hint- Register early for best rooms! Watch video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKWM2pJaKK0&feature=youtu.be. See you there! John Homonek bn7 at mindspring.com From mbran89793 at aol.com Fri Aug 12 18:53:49 2011 From: mbran89793 at aol.com (Marion S. Brantley, Jr.) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 20:53:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts Message-ID: <8CE276A98A9ACD6-DF8-2DDC5@webmail-d053.sysops.aol.com> Hi Mark- This sounds almost like the Tupper Ware "pie carrier" that I've been using for about 20 years for small electrical parts and light bulbs. I painted it black so that it is almost invisible under the spare wire wheel. I'll check my local WalMart just to see if they have the item you purchased here in St. Petersburg, FL. Thanks for the information. Marion S. Brantley, Jr. Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club Membership Chmn. & Delegate -----Original Message----- From: Mark Goodman To: healeys Sent: Sun, Aug 7, 2011 11:22 pm Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts I am getting prepared to go to Encounter in Paradise PA this Wednesday and purchased a Multi-purpose Food Storage Container from Walmart today to house my spare ignition parts and a few other spares. It measures 12.4" in Dia. x 4.13" High and fits quite nicely under the spare tire. It comes with 2 carrying handles which are not necessary and without them it looks like a brake drum under the spokes. It was less than $7.00 so if you are looking for that nook to hide a few necessary spare items this will certainly meet your need. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Aug 12 19:13:18 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 18:13:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front A-Arm Bracket Location Message-ID: <1313197998.59108.YahooMailClassic@web180602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I talked with Martin JansenOf Jule Enterprises over the phone yesterday and gained a wealth of knowledge in just a short conversation. Martin had no problem imparting the information I needed for correct placement of the front lower a-arm bracket. I did not get a "sales job", just friendly advice on what I needed to do to have a nice steerable car. This is a true gentleman that really cares about the hobby in general. That must translate to his business and I believe he must turn out a superior product if this is how he conducts himself as a businessman. Many thanks to Martin for his help and if anyone is considering a frame, you would probably do right for yourself if you considered Mr Jansen's product. No financial interest here, just an observation. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 02 Heritage Springer From rplindsay at comcast.net Fri Aug 12 20:35:25 2011 From: rplindsay at comcast.net (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 21:35:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts In-Reply-To: <8CE276A98A9ACD6-DF8-2DDC5@webmail-d053.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE276A98A9ACD6-DF8-2DDC5@webmail-d053.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: You can also go to Ace Hardware or similar store and buy a 5 gallon plastic paint can. Cut it to fit under the spare tire. It works great. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone On Aug 12, 2011, at 7:53 PM, "Marion S. Brantley, Jr." wrote: > Hi Mark- > This sounds almost like the Tupper Ware "pie carrier" that I've been using for > about 20 years for small electrical parts and light bulbs. I painted it black > so that it is almost invisible under the spare wire wheel. > I'll check my local WalMart just to see if they have the item you purchased > here in St. Petersburg, FL. > Thanks for the information. > > > > Marion S. Brantley, Jr. > Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club > Membership Chmn. & Delegate > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Goodman > To: healeys > Sent: Sun, Aug 7, 2011 11:22 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts > > > I am getting prepared to go to Encounter in Paradise PA this Wednesday and > purchased a Multi-purpose Food Storage Container from Walmart today to house > my spare ignition parts and a few other spares. It measures 12.4" in Dia. x > 4.13" High and fits quite nicely under the spare tire. It comes with 2 > carrying handles which are not necessary and without them it looks like a > brake drum under the spokes. It was less than $7.00 so if you are looking > for that nook to hide a few necessary spare items this will certainly meet > your need. > > > > Mark Goodman > > 66 BJ8 35503 > > www.austinhealeyessence.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rplindsay at comcast.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 12 20:49:42 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 10:49:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts In-Reply-To: References: <8CE276A98A9ACD6-DF8-2DDC5@webmail-d053.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Price - That would involve effort to cut it down. ;) Alan On 8/13/11, R. Price Lindsay wrote: > You can also go to Ace Hardware or similar store and buy a 5 gallon plastic > paint can. Cut it to fit under the spare tire. It works great. > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Aug 12, 2011, at 7:53 PM, "Marion S. Brantley, Jr." > wrote: > >> Hi Mark- >> This sounds almost like the Tupper Ware "pie carrier" that I've been using > for >> about 20 years for small electrical parts and light bulbs. I painted it > black >> so that it is almost invisible under the spare wire wheel. >> I'll check my local WalMart just to see if they have the item you >> purchased >> here in St. Petersburg, FL. >> Thanks for the information. >> >> >> >> Marion S. Brantley, Jr. >> Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club >> Membership Chmn. & Delegate >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Mark Goodman >> To: healeys >> Sent: Sun, Aug 7, 2011 11:22 pm >> Subject: [Healeys] Perfect Container for spare parts >> >> >> I am getting prepared to go to Encounter in Paradise PA this Wednesday and >> purchased a Multi-purpose Food Storage Container from Walmart today to > house >> my spare ignition parts and a few other spares. It measures 12.4" in Dia. > x >> 4.13" High and fits quite nicely under the spare tire. It comes with 2 >> carrying handles which are not necessary and without them it looks like a >> brake drum under the spokes. It was less than $7.00 so if you are looking >> for that nook to hide a few necessary spare items this will certainly meet >> your need. >> >> >> >> Mark Goodman >> >> 66 BJ8 35503 >> >> www.austinhealeyessence.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rplindsay at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Aug 12 21:14:07 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 03:14:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Fw=3A_Neue_Fotos_wurden_f=FCr_Sie_im_Fot?= =?iso-8859-1?q?o-Album_von_Sharon_Karch_freigegeben?= Message-ID: <20110813031407.11837.qmail@server278.com> > -------Original Message------- > From: Sharon Karch > To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net > Subject: Neue Fotos wurden f|r Sie im Foto-Album von Sharon Karch freigegeben > Sent: Aug 12 '11 21:24 > > Hi Jim & Christa,here are some new pictures from our house. Hope > everythings fine and your all doing well?Talk to you soon.Love Sharon > [LINK: https://fotoalbum.web.de/gast/Sharon.Karch/Baustelle_-_House/] > [LINK: https://fotoalbum.web.de/gast/Sharon.Karch/Baustelle_-_House/] > BAUSTELLE - HOUSE > > > Schon gehrt? WEB.DE hat einen genialen Phishing-Filter in die > Toolbar eingebaut! [LINK: http://produkte.web.de/go/toolbar] > HTTP://PRODUKTE.WEB.DE/GO/TOOLBAR From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 13 02:16:17 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 10:16:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 In-Reply-To: References: <8E4786A2BB814D75AB6B6E4D9FFE1B12@TM1> <4E410576.4050007@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4E4632D1.6030908@chello.nl> Curt, I am sorry, but I have to disagree. Most older powder coating jobs I have seen are just looking terrible if you look at it closer and peel away some of the loose bits. There may be better powder coatings around now but so far I did not come across them. Of course these coatings do look much better than the paint jobs when new and/or in good condition but AFAIAC they are for trailer queens or dry warm climates only, not for chassis parts of cars that are in frequent use in bad weather or winterly conditions with salt on the road. You simply cannot detect deterioration early enough to prevent serious corrosion. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Aug 13 06:38:28 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 22:38:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 In-Reply-To: <4E4632D1.6030908@chello.nl> References: <8E4786A2BB814D75AB6B6E4D9FFE1B12@TM1> <4E410576.4050007@chello.nl> <4E4632D1.6030908@chello.nl> Message-ID: <0962045D-0C79-474F-9B5F-A057E4AD79B1@gmail.com> Fair's fair Kees. The discussion was about hood bows. Just stop tailgating the snow grader and put your side screens in if salt corrosion is affecting your hood bows!! ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 13/08/2011, at 6:16 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Curt, > I am sorry, but I have to disagree. Most older powder coating jobs I > have seen are just looking terrible if you look at it closer and peel > away some of the loose bits. There may be better powder coatings > around > now but so far I did not come across them. Of course these coatings do > look much better than the paint jobs when new and/or in good condition > but AFAIAC they are for trailer queens or dry warm climates only, not > for chassis parts of cars that are in frequent use in bad weather or > winterly conditions with salt on the road. You simply cannot detect > deterioration early enough to prevent serious corrosion. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a > name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From ruvino at ripnet.com Sat Aug 13 08:11:07 2011 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 10:11:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wiring Message-ID: <7E5174032D974393BDA0DB6E64467A57@HPp6520f> Installed an alternator in my 100/6 and inadvertently did not tighten down the holder for the coil. While touring yesterday the coil slipped back and one terminal (white wires) touched the dip stick and emitted its smoke. One wire, the one going to the fuse box, burned down about 6 inches but the fuse did not blow. I will have to slice into the harness to see it the burn goes further. If it does I propose to run a new wire from the coil to the fuse box. Does that make sense? Any suggestion for gauge of wire? From bighealey3k at aim.com Sat Aug 13 08:31:12 2011 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 10:31:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location In-Reply-To: <1313094801.95945.YahooMailClassic@web180608.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313094801.95945.YahooMailClassic@web180608.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CE27DCC8F789A4-2644-44797@webmail-m161.sysops.aol.com> Mike, I have Work Shop Manual AKD1179F dated 1966 and I can fax or email section R to you if you would like. Contact me off list and we can make the arrangements. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: David Nock Cc: healeys ; Rich Sent: Thu, Aug 11, 2011 4:39 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location Hey, pretty funny. This book only goes to "Q". No listing for a section"R" n the index. Maybe a later edition, this one is book 97H.1489, dated May 957. ike --- On Thu, 8/11/11, David Nock wrote: From: David Nock ubject: Re: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location o: "Michael MacLean" c: healeys at autox.team.net, "'Bob Spidell'" , "Rich hrysler" ate: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 8:28 PM ack of the book section R David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . n Aug 11, 2011, at 1:15 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: avid, The only factory service manual for 6 cylinder cars I have is an original 00/6 blue binder factory service manual. I don't seem to find any frame imensions in it at all. ike --- On Thu, 8/11/11, David Nock wrote: From: David Nock ubject: Re: [Healeys] Front A-Arm bracket location o: "Michael MacLean" c: healeys at autox.team.net, "'Bob Spidell'" , "Rich hrysler" ate: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 4:08 PM The location of the Lower A arm brackets is in the Factory service manual for he 6 cylinder cars. David NockBritish Car SpecialistsStockton Ca 95205209-948-8767 ww.britishcarspecialists.com.. n Aug 11, 2011, at 8:29 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: ich, I argued this with the body guy yesterday. He is going by another 00 inthe shop that has the two brackets in slightly different locations. You nd Iknow they are supposed to be symmetrical, but I have to convince this uy. Today I am bringing the lower a-arms that have not been disassembled rrebuilt yet and fit them up to the car to show him how one side fits and heother does not. I'll report back to the list.Mike -- On Thu, 8/11/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: Also, can you not get dimensions from the other side? ich ----Original Message----- he problem is that he has already welded it in the wrong location. I amgoing here tomorrow or Friday and taking the lower a-arm assembly to use toshow im. I just wanted a measurement to back this up. A few years ago Ibought a rame dimension diagram for the BN1/2 from BCS, but I can't seem tofind it nywhere. Anyone know what book this measurement may be in?Mike acLean_______________________________________________Healeys at autox.team.netD nate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation 12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: ttp://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com Sat Aug 13 10:45:25 2011 From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 09:45:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wiring In-Reply-To: <7E5174032D974393BDA0DB6E64467A57@HPp6520f> References: <7E5174032D974393BDA0DB6E64467A57@HPp6520f> Message-ID: <4E46AA25.3040303@roadrunner.com> 16 gauge wire wouldn't hurt. The fuse doesn't protect any of the white wires in the car, by design. On 08/13/2011 07:11 AM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > Installed an alternator in my 100/6 and inadvertently did not tighten down the > holder for the coil. While touring yesterday the coil slipped back and one > terminal (white wires) touched the dip stick and emitted its smoke. One wire, > the one going to the fuse box, burned down about 6 inches but the fuse did not > blow. I will have to slice into the harness to see it the burn goes further. > If it does I propose to run a new wire from the coil to the fuse box. > > Does that make sense? Any suggestion for gauge of wire? From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Aug 13 13:20:58 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 12:20:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hood frame color on a 100 In-Reply-To: <0962045D-0C79-474F-9B5F-A057E4AD79B1@gmail.com> References: <8E4786A2BB814D75AB6B6E4D9FFE1B12@TM1> <4E410576.4050007@chello.nl> <4E4632D1.6030908@chello.nl> <0962045D-0C79-474F-9B5F-A057E4AD79B1@gmail.com> Message-ID: Kees, and Tadek , The one thing to remember is that powder-coat, aka powder paint, is just that PAINT, that is applied dry (electrostatically) instead of wet (chemically). But paint none the less. It is in fact the dry process that *can* make the powdercoat process superior to wet paint applications, IF it is done correctly. As such in a wet environment if a painted surface is susceptible to corrosion so would a powder-coated surface. The great part about powder-coat is that it will get into and cover areas that regular paint could never get into. It is actually sucked into small crevices and areas that an aerosol paint could never reach, and after all, it's is these uncovered areas where corrosion first takes hold and gets underneath the paint, causing the damage that Kees refers to taking hold. Look at it this way if traditional paint is poorly or improperly applied corrosion will start sooner than later... the same can be said for improperly applied powder-coating. Possibly the Powder-coating processes where you live are not the same as the one I use. Trust me , I will NOT use most of the local powder-coating, since they are basically catering to large industrial applications. My powder-coater specializes in high end applications not old lawn and patio furniture... - The parts are bead blasted clean, which is of course the standard starting process, - then phosphate coated, a process that most other vendors do not do, - and then the powder is applied to a cool part rather than being heated prior, and then it is baked on. This enables a much thinner coating coating that looks exactly like a quality aerosol paint rather than a too thick dipped paint job. - finally they use a quality powder. And as I've previously stated they sell matching aerosol paint cans in the various gloss levels. I pay more but the results are nothing less than spectacular. As too Tadek's statement about "looking closely and peeling away the loose bits... here appears to be the problem. My powder-coating looks as good and or better than chemically applied paint and there are NO loose bits. Guys this is NOT porcelain enamel or some other complete different, or exotic process different than paint. I have been hearing this stuff for 20 years now and from folks that mistakenly think that powder-coating is some completely different process rather than what it really is... simply a better way to apply traditional paint. And Tadek, don't tell me that you are going to drive you 100 on slushy, salty roads this winter. Look at all of the industrial applications where powder-coating process is now used, not only for ease of manufacturing but for durability. Finally, I cannot think of a better part to power-coat than the convertible top frame. My restorer friend, who literally does 20 plus cars a year swears by this on his top frames, mostly for classic Jaguars, Porches, etc... Finally I have to keep reminding myself where Kees lives... the Netherlands, and as such he's one fat fingered little Dutch boy away from being under salt water ;-) so I can understand his concern about moisture and corrosion. And to those who don't get my humorous reference, read this link... http://www.pantheon.org/articles/l/little_dutch_boy.html Cheers, Curt... from sunny dry Southern California :-) On Sat, Aug 13, 2011 at 5:38 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Fair's fair Kees. > The discussion was about hood bows. Just stop tailgating the snow grader > and put your side screens in if salt corrosion is affecting your hood bows!! > ;-) > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On 13/08/2011, at 6:16 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Curt, >> I am sorry, but I have to disagree. Most older powder coating jobs I >> have seen are just looking terrible if you look at it closer and peel >> away some of the loose bits. There may be better powder coatings around >> now but so far I did not come across them. Of course these coatings do >> look much better than the paint jobs when new and/or in good condition >> but AFAIAC they are for trailer queens or dry warm climates only, not >> for chassis parts of cars that are in frequent use in bad weather or >> winterly conditions with salt on the road. You simply cannot detect >> deterioration early enough to prevent serious corrosion. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL From pennell at cox.net Sat Aug 13 16:59:45 2011 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 18:59:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cooling parts for sale Message-ID: <20110813185945.NSJVX.1396210.imail@eastrmwml47> For sale ad - delete if offended!!! I need to suplement by dwindling retirement funds!!! 195 degree thermostat - New in box - made by Sureflo # 1-195 $5 180 degree thermostat - New in box - made by BapGeon Moss #434-189 $5 radiator cap in Moss #583-004 box This is a Stant R5 4 lb cap but Moss says use 7 lb. Not sure of the discrepency. $5 used water pump with no pulley. In a QH brand #QCP 107 box although this box may not be for it. Don't know. Needs oil seal, bearing, woodruff key and pulley. $20 Or all the above for $25 plus shipping from 23602 Keith From coll44 at msn.com Sun Aug 14 06:24:18 2011 From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 08:24:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] healey sighting Message-ID: Red BJ8 (just like mine) southbound on 87 or 787 in Albany NY yesterday around 4:00 pm. Anyone on this list? Terry Coll '64 BJ* From rplindsay at comcast.net Sun Aug 14 08:21:32 2011 From: rplindsay at comcast.net (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 09:21:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Bearings Message-ID: After ruining the front left wheel bearing of my BJ8, my parts have arrived to fix the problem. How do I get the races out of the wire wheel hub? I tried a hammer and drift but they don't want to budge. Is this something that a machine shop should do or do I need a larger hammer? Thanks for your help. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 From gaagten at hetnet.nl Sun Aug 14 08:19:28 2011 From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 16:19:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A-H museum References: <98a8.70c0138c.3b767379@aol.com> Message-ID: <6AD03C5316DB4390B721519734CE96D2@Laptop> Hi list Thanks for the info. I still wondering about this Swiss connection. Indeed in The Netherland there will be created a A-H museum to be opened beginnig of next year. See link: http://www.healey.nl/healey_museum/ Regards, Ge Aagten BJ8 The Netherlands ----- Original Message ----- From: CAWS52803 at aol.com To: gaagten at hetnet.nl ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 2:15 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] A-H museum Back a few years ago, my wife and I were at the ground breaking of the Healey Museum here in the US. Gerry & Marion Coker were the honored guests. It was to be at Virginia International Raceway. The land there was being donated by one VIR partner, Connie Nyholm, and the actual construction was to be done by her boyfriend. He owned several Healeys including a Silverstone. As faith would have it, they broke up and the project dissipated. Never heard if any materials were gathered either. Never another word about a museum here. Rudy Streng Lenoir, NC BN4, AN5 __________ NOD32 6370 (20110811) Informatie __________ Dit bericht is gecontroleerd door het NOD32 Antivirus Systeem. http://www.nod32.nl From shop at justbrits.com Sun Aug 14 09:00:42 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 10:00:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A-H museum In-Reply-To: <6AD03C5316DB4390B721519734CE96D2@Laptop> References: <98a8.70c0138c.3b767379@aol.com> <6AD03C5316DB4390B721519734CE96D2@Laptop> Message-ID: <4E47E31A.5090000@justbrits.com> Go here: http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=nl&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.healey.nl%2Fhealey_museum%2F OR *http://tinyurl.com/3ot59bs* For translation in English !! Interesting read ! Ed From willig at wtnet.de Sun Aug 14 10:00:14 2011 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 18:00:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone needs a fanbelt for a 100S? Message-ID: <002301cc5a9b$414d08a0$c3e719e0$@de> ..just clearing my garage: Ferodo V121 NOS Fanbelt for A-H 100S in original cardboard box (Will make you also happy if you drive a Benley "S", a Commer Van, Morris 25 or Wolseley ) Will give it away to a good home for free, if you pay the postage from Germany Thomas Willig From bighealey3k at aim.com Sun Aug 14 10:01:38 2011 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 12:01:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Bearings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE28B29525AD0B-D7C-6C317@webmail-m145.sysops.aol.com> Price, Did you find the two cutouts or relief areas in the outer wheel bearing stop flange on the inside of the hub? You can catch the edge of the outer bearing race with a drift. Because you are replacing the outer race, you can use a steel drift and hit it as hard as you can to get it to start moving. After it starts moving, you can catch the edge of the race in other areas to walk the race out of the hub evenly being careful not to get it cocked. If you are doing it on a work bench, be sure to place the hub over a bench leg to keep the hub from bouncing loosing some of the shock of your pounding. If necessary place the hub on piece of plywood on the floor for a more solid surface. I use a brass drift to put the race back in the hub in order to not distort or damage the race. Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: R. Price Lindsay To: Healey List Sent: Sun, Aug 14, 2011 10:25 am Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Bearings After ruining the front left wheel bearing of my BJ8, my parts have arrived o fix the problem. How do I get the races out of the wire wheel hub? I ried a hammer and drift but they don't want to budge. Is this something hat a machine shop should do or do I need a larger hammer? Thanks for your help. Price Lindsay 7 BJ8 ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Sun Aug 14 10:18:16 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 18:18:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A-H museum In-Reply-To: <98a8.70c0138c.3b767379@aol.com> References: <98a8.70c0138c.3b767379@aol.com> Message-ID: Funny (considering my location), but I can add some info. I have a 2007 calendar pressed by "The Healey Museum". At the end there is some description of the fundation. The objective being: "To historically preserve the cars and memories of Donald M. Healey and his family, and all thoose who helped design,develop, produce, amrket and race the cars that bear the Healey name." "In addition to specific milestone cars, the Bill Wood Collection of Healey production documentation, obtained from Geoff Healey, will be a major part of the museum's Resource Center." Additional information on the museum is available at: Media Office, The Healey Museum 352-223-8840 healeyinfo at aol.com www.healeymuseum.org Nice alendar anyway with intresting photos. Hope the collection will be presented to the public at some day. Gergo 2011/8/12 > Back a few years ago, my wife and I were at the ground breaking of the > Healey Museum here in the US. Gerry & Marion Coker were the honored > guests. It > was to be at Virginia International Raceway. The land there was being > donated by one VIR partner, Connie Nyholm, and the actual construction was > to be > done by her boyfriend. He owned several Healeys including a Silverstone. > A > s faith would have it, they broke up and the project dissipated. Never > heard if any materials were gathered either. > Never another word about a museum here. > > Rudy Streng > Lenoir, NC > BN4, AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Aug 14 11:59:02 2011 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 13:59:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone needs a fanbelt for a 100S? In-Reply-To: <002301cc5a9b$414d08a0$c3e719e0$@de> References: <002301cc5a9b$414d08a0$c3e719e0$@de> Message-ID: <8CE28C2FC07D118-1E78-8033F@webmail-d174.sysops.aol.com> Thomas If I would get the fan belt from you i would have two parts towards a recreation of a 100S. Years ago we won an auction for a 100S upper radiator hose in it's box. We can't afford the rest of the parts so I'll have to decline your offer. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: T+ B Willig To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Aug 14, 2011 12:00 pm Subject: [Healeys] Anyone needs a fanbelt for a 100S? ..just clearing my garage: Ferodo V121 NOS Fanbelt for A-H 100S in original cardboard box (Will make ou also happy if you drive a Benley "S", a Commer Van, Morris 25 or olseley ) Will give it away to a good home for free, if you pay the postage from ermany Thomas Willig From ruvino at ripnet.com Sun Aug 14 12:52:49 2011 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 14:52:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] coil short Message-ID: <6D48975017874ACD82C386AC79345B1D@HPp6520f> OH, OH, worse than I feared. Most of the white wires to the fuse box have fused. I may have to cut back to where the fuel pump wire comes out and replace that wire from there and the wire from the coil. The wire from the overdrive selenoid is OK. But wait. The wiring diagram shows 3 white wires to the fuse box but I have 4, any idea what the fourth one might be? Carl BN-4 1957 From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Sun Aug 14 13:22:49 2011 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 19:22:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Needed - one BJ8 spindle Message-ID: I need the right hand side (passenger side in US) BJ8 spindle (also called a stub axle). Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon From Editorgary at aol.com Sun Aug 14 13:43:46 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 15:43:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] erstwhile Healey Museum in Virginia Message-ID: <247f3.4eb76400.3b797f72@aol.com> In a message dated 8/14/11 11:05:49 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > At the end there is some description of the fundation. The objective > being: > "To historically preserve the cars and memories of Donald M. Healey and > his > family, and all thoose who helped design,develop, produce, amrket and race > the cars that bear the Healey name." > "In addition to specific milestone cars, the Bill Wood Collection of > Healey > production documentation, obtained from Geoff Healey, will be a major part > of the museum's Resource Center." > If I'm not mistaken, all of the cars were individually sold off as part of a divorce settlement, and the collected research materials and documents were sold to someone in Switzerland who was promising to make them available again as part of his campaign to launch a "new Healey" -- To my knowledge, neither has happened, and I think they're lost again. Bill Emerson might know, since he's still around and was curator of the intended museum in Virginia. G. From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sun Aug 14 16:53:21 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 18:53:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] John Nikas needs Help, Drive Away Cancer Message-ID: <13c47.10f0521b.3b79abe1@aol.com> For those of you who know, John Nikas is attempting to drive across the United States and back to raise awareness about cancer. His "Drive Away Cancer" journey is about halfway completed as he made it to Charleston, South Carolina after starting from Huntington Beach, California. Unfortunately, it seems his Austin-Healey 100 is experiencing some problems in South Carolina. Very low oil pressure and a large oil consumption problem. Is there anyone out there capable of lending a hand so John can continue on his way back to California? John is in the Charleston, Columbia area and if you get back to me, I can find out exactly where he is and get that information back to you. If you are not familiar with John's quest, you can get caught up to speed at his "facebook" page, here's the link: http://tinyurl.com/3znlmac Or you can go and watch the video of him leaving California this past Monday morning, 8 Ausgust 2011, and here's the link to the video: _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq4_42H5tNg_ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq4_42H5tNg) Even if you're not in the South Carolina area, maybe you know some one who is and is capable of helping John out. All information is greatly appreciated, just get back to me at this email address and of course we will keep everyone up to date as to the status of the journey. Thank you all very much in advance. Steven Kingsbury From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Sun Aug 14 16:56:21 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 00:56:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] erstwhile Healey Museum in Virginia In-Reply-To: <247f3.4eb76400.3b797f72@aol.com> References: <247f3.4eb76400.3b797f72@aol.com> Message-ID: Sad story. 2011/8/14 > In a message dated 8/14/11 11:05:49 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > > > At the end there is some description of the fundation. The objective > > being: > > "To historically preserve the cars and memories of Donald M. Healey and > > his > > family, and all thoose who helped design,develop, produce, amrket and > race > > the cars that bear the Healey name." > > "In addition to specific milestone cars, the Bill Wood Collection of > > Healey > > production documentation, obtained from Geoff Healey, will be a major > part > > of the museum's Resource Center." > > > > If I'm not mistaken, all of the cars were individually sold off as part of > a divorce settlement, and the collected research materials and documents > were sold to someone in Switzerland who was promising to make them > available > again as part of his campaign to launch a "new Healey" -- To my knowledge, > neither has happened, and I think they're lost again. Bill Emerson might > know, > since he's still around and was curator of the intended museum in Virginia. > > G. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sun Aug 14 17:28:52 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 19:28:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] John Nikas needs Help, Drive Away Cancer Message-ID: <149b2.720e0dea.3b79b434@aol.com> I just talked with John and unless someone has a complete engine for a 100 they would like to donate, or can do rings and bearings overnight, the decision has been made that he will head out in the morning and start the journey home. The low pressure and loss of oil can't hurt the car anymore and after a gathering of many Healey folks, and their collective wisdom, caution is being thrown to the wind and it all starts up again tomorrow. As John stated when we were talking, it is a true testament to this car's will to run that she made it this far and he's confident she will bring him back to California. Stay tuned for further developments. The exact course for the return trip has not been finalized as of yet and as soon as I know that, I will pass along that information so folks along way can possibly cheer him on as he heads through a town, city or intersection near you. Thanks again for all your thoughts. Steven Kingsbury In a message dated 8/14/2011 4:06:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tomfelts at windstream.net writes: Sorry should have said Columbia. ---- ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: ============= For those of you who know, John Nikas is attempting to drive across the United States and back to raise awareness about cancer. His "Drive Away Cancer" journey is about halfway completed as he made it to Charleston, South Carolina after starting from Huntington Beach, California. Unfortunately, it seems his Austin-Healey 100 is experiencing some problems in South Carolina. Very low oil pressure and a large oil consumption problem. Is there anyone out there capable of lending a hand so John can continue on his way back to California? John is in the Charleston, Columbia area and if you get back to me, I can find out exactly where he is and get that information back to you. If you are not familiar with John's quest, you can get caught up to speed at his "facebook" page, here's the link: http://tinyurl.com/3znlmac Or you can go and watch the video of him leaving California this past Monday morning, 8 Ausgust 2011, and here's the link to the video: _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq4_42H5tNg_ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq4_42H5tNg) Even if you're not in the South Carolina area, maybe you know some one who is and is capable of helping John out. All information is greatly appreciated, just get back to me at this email address and of course we will keep everyone up to date as to the status of the journey. Thank you all very much in advance. Steven Kingsbury _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Aug 14 17:45:38 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 19:45:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] erstwhile Healey Museum in Virginia In-Reply-To: References: <247f3.4eb76400.3b797f72@aol.com> Message-ID: <005a01cc5adc$4589b760$d09d2620$@rr.com> The person who was providing the financial backing for the proposed Healey museum at VIR also owned one of the three Rolls Healey 4000 cars with the Rolls Royce Princess engines. He showed up in it with his little daughter in the passenger seat at the Carolinas AHC fall mountain tour a few years ago and drove it on the tour. An amazingly young fellow and very pleasant. As it was told to me, the guy did go through a divorce and had to sell off the 4000 and a Silverstone. I intercepted several boxes of Healey Marque/Chatter and Austin-Healey Magazine/Healey Highlights going back to 1970 that were going to the museum. I was to use them for BJ8 registry purposes and then pass them on to Bill Emerson, but the museum project fell through before I finished with them, so I still have them. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healey Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 6:56 PM To: Editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] erstwhile Healey Museum in Virginia Sad story. 2011/8/14 > In a message dated 8/14/11 11:05:49 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > > > At the end there is some description of the fundation. The objective > > being: > > "To historically preserve the cars and memories of Donald M. Healey and > > his > > family, and all thoose who helped design,develop, produce, amrket and > race > > the cars that bear the Healey name." > > "In addition to specific milestone cars, the Bill Wood Collection of > > Healey > > production documentation, obtained from Geoff Healey, will be a major > part > > of the museum's Resource Center." Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3834 - Release Date: 08/14/11 From banjojohn at cox.net Sun Aug 14 18:33:33 2011 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 19:33:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] annoying rattle Message-ID: <54A3D9A86D8C4EF6AAB9B078FB47E7AC@authorizf47d14> Listers: I have had an annoying rattle under the dash for a long time, and it's driving me crazy. Whenever driving on rough roads, it sounds like a cable or something is bouncing and banging against the underside of the dash. I have reached under everywhere I can get my hand and can't seem to find anything loose or in a spot where it would rattle. Has anyone else had this, and what did you do to fix it. Thanks John O'Brien '65 BJ8 phase 1 '61 Bugeye From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 14 20:22:51 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 19:22:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] annoying rattle In-Reply-To: <54A3D9A86D8C4EF6AAB9B078FB47E7AC@authorizf47d14> References: <54A3D9A86D8C4EF6AAB9B078FB47E7AC@authorizf47d14> Message-ID: <4E4882FB.80502@comcast.net> I have this too. I think it's the windshield wiper cable banging against the top of the scuttle. Not sure how to 'fix' it, except to put some foam or something between the cable and the scuttle. Bob On 8/14/2011 5:33 PM, John O'Brien wrote: > Listers: > > I have had an annoying rattle under the dash for a long time, and it's > driving me crazy. Whenever driving on rough roads, it sounds like a cable > or something is bouncing and banging against the underside of the dash. I > have reached under everywhere I can get my hand and can't seem to find > anything loose or in a spot where it would rattle. Has anyone else had > this, and what did you do to fix it. > > Thanks > > John O'Brien > > '65 BJ8 phase 1 > > '61 Bugeye > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 14 21:04:38 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 11:04:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] annoying rattle In-Reply-To: <4E4882FB.80502@comcast.net> References: <54A3D9A86D8C4EF6AAB9B078FB47E7AC@authorizf47d14> <4E4882FB.80502@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - It's interesting - on my '51 A90 Atlantic, the factory put a rubber hose over one section of the wiper rack. I always wondered what this was for, now I know!! Cheers, Alan On 8/15/11, Bob Spidell wrote: > I have this too. I think it's the windshield wiper cable banging against > the top of the scuttle. Not sure how to 'fix' > it, except to put some foam or something between the cable and the scuttle. > > Bob > > On 8/14/2011 5:33 PM, John O'Brien wrote: >> Listers: >> >> I have had an annoying rattle under the dash for a long time, and it's >> driving me crazy. Whenever driving on rough roads, it sounds like a cable >> or something is bouncing and banging against the underside of the dash. I >> have reached under everywhere I can get my hand and can't seem to find >> anything loose or in a spot where it would rattle. Has anyone else had >> this, and what did you do to fix it. >> >> Thanks >> >> John O'Brien >> >> '65 BJ8 phase 1 >> >> '61 Bugeye >> >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Aug 14 21:55:35 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 20:55:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wow! Message-ID: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Wow! http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 An5 From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sun Aug 14 22:13:12 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 00:13:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wow! Message-ID: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> Wow! is an understatement! In a message dated 8/14/2011 9:02:41 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rrengineer.mike at att.net writes: Wow! http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 An5 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Mon Aug 15 15:41:30 2011 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry rowe) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:41:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000901cc5b94$182fb950$488f2bf0$@net.au> Just had a look at the book sitting on the occasional table. I might put it on ebay for $800 and undercut them. Think I paid Au$59 for it a couple of years ago. That would be classed as a good buy!! John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, 14 August 2011 8:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wow! Wow! http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 An5 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Aug 14 22:43:50 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 21:43:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> Message-ID: wonder what my autographed edition is worth?? On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 9:13 PM, wrote: > Wow! is an understatement! > > > > In a message dated 8/14/2011 9:02:41 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > rrengineer.mike at att.net writes: > > Wow! > > http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 > > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 An5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Aug 14 22:37:58 2011 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 04:37:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Wow! but there are no bids either................. Jean > Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 20:55:35 -0700 > From: rrengineer.mike at att.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wow! > > Wow! > > http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 > > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 An5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Sun Aug 14 22:54:01 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 23:54:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] annoying rattle In-Reply-To: References: <54A3D9A86D8C4EF6AAB9B078FB47E7AC@authorizf47d14> <4E4882FB.80502@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E48A669.9040303@justbrits.com> << ...the factory put a rubber hose over one section of the wiper rack. >> Interesting, Alan and exactly what I was going to (but Mr. Spidel beat me to it ) opine and recommend the install of a short section of rubber hose 'split' by the "annoyed Mr. O'Brien" ! ! Personally John, I would split the hose on a diagonal and then "thread" it on to the wiper sheath. Lessens chance of falling off which would return said "annoying rattle" ! Rich C. can confirm or correct me but IIRC 3.8" I.D. should do it. I would think some lightly applied Baby Oil to inside of hose should assist you installing. Ed From shop at justbrits.com Sun Aug 14 23:03:12 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 00:03:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E48A890.9080105@justbrits.com> *<<* Wow! http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7> *>> *That settles it and TNX, Mike !! Bidding *_IS_* open on my _*SIGNED*_ & *_Numbered_* copy which is in almost same condition !! The 'hardboard' cover sleeve does have some sunlight-fade.* *Ed PS: Pics available on request or check my site soon as I will have them 'up' !! From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Aug 14 23:03:00 2011 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 15:03:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> Message-ID: <12BA505EBDF04DD0ADDF50E04BEBD5D8@Notebook> They also have Anderson/Moment for a mere $500! -----Original Message----- From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 2:13 PM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! Wow! is an understatement! In a message dated 8/14/2011 9:02:41 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rrengineer.mike at att.net writes: Wow! http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 An5 _______________________________________________ From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Aug 14 23:50:36 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 22:50:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting Message-ID: Anyone driving a red 3000 on north bound I-5 (California) Saturday afternoon? Looked nice as we went south. Rich Kahn From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Aug 14 23:14:16 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 15:14:16 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> Message-ID: <70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day I win! I win! Mine has to be worth the most. Not only is it autographed by Bill Emerson and Gerry Coker, but it also comes with an invitation to the launch, personal letters from both the author and publisher along with a metal Healey badge inserted into a recess in the front of the slip case. Am I bragging? Of course, but it does help to own a featured car. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, 15 August 2011 2:44 PM To: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! wonder what my autographed edition is worth?? On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 9:13 PM, wrote: > Wow! is an understatement! > > > > In a message dated 8/14/2011 9:02:41 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > rrengineer.mike at att.net writes: > > Wow! > > http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 > > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 An5 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Aug 15 01:14:05 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 17:14:05 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7DB0528CD53143739153085545E31577@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Rich I assure you it wasn't me, but it does bring back memories. My wife and I had the pleasure of a press fleet Mercedes Benz and were driving from Los Angeles to San Diego on our second day in the US. Driving a LHD car for the first time in 25 years we managed to get completely lost in LA. We kept looking for something called 'One Five' and burst into laughter when we realised that we were really looking for I-5. Except for a Google Map all we knew was that San Diego was south, the ocean was on our right and I wasn't permitted to take the car outside the US. So after coming from the East Coast of Australia, not only was the steering wheel on the wrong side, but someone had moved the ocean as well. We kept driving and I was concerned that soon we would reach the Mexican border. So after hurtling down the fast lane (and seeing both a fellow Mercedes and a Jaguar XJS ablaze along the side of the One Five) I spied the Mexican flag. So I figured that it was time to turn right and head towards the Pacific before we got involved in a border incident. We found San Diego by following the navel aircraft and the cleansing ale at the del Coronado was wonderful. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Monday, 15 August 2011 3:51 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting Anyone driving a red 3000 on north bound I-5 (California) Saturday afternoon? Looked nice as we went south. Rich Kahn From randey_brophy at telus.net Mon Aug 15 01:17:39 2011 From: randey_brophy at telus.net (randey brophy) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 00:17:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] rattle in my restored '65 AH 3000 BJ8 Message-ID: <005a01cc5b1b$6a802790$3f8076b0$@net> I have a rattle in my fully restored '65 AH 3000 that occurs after the car has warmed up. It seems to come from the drivers side (left) rear of the car and disappears when the brakes are lightly applied, coming back thereafter. It's not consistent and I've had the rear left brake examined and it appears to be in good shape. Any thoughts as to what the rattle might be? Thanks. Randey Brophy 1747 Trafalgar St Vancouver BC V6K3R9 C: 604 928 1866 E: randey_brophy at telus.net "You are what you do!" www.brophysellshomes.com cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 01:43:00 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 09:43:00 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> <70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: Patrick > win! I win! Mine has to be worth the most. > > Not only is it autographed by Bill Emerson and Gerry Coker > Well Patrick, mine is signed by Bill, Margot (on the foreword page) and Jack Sears next to the photo of his old race car VOK 490. Offers over 5,000 please Derek On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 7:14 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > G'day > > I win! I win! Mine has to be worth the most. > > Not only is it autographed by Bill Emerson and Gerry Coker, but it also > comes with an invitation to the launch, personal letters from both the > author and publisher along with a metal Healey badge inserted into a recess > in the front of the slip case. > > Am I bragging? Of course, but it does help to own a featured car. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of I Erbs > Sent: Monday, 15 August 2011 2:44 PM > To: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! > > wonder what my autographed edition is worth?? > > On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 9:13 PM, wrote: > > > Wow! is an understatement! > > > > > > > > In a message dated 8/14/2011 9:02:41 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > > rrengineer.mike at att.net writes: > > > > Wow! > > > > http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 > > > > Mike MacLean > > 56 BN2 > > 60 An5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Aug 15 01:45:24 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 17:45:24 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com><70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <5F1CEB376A53472F8341A06FC49364F1@PatrickQuinnPC> Can we go better? Woo Hoo Patrick Quinn _____ From: Derek Job [mailto:derek.c.job at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, 15 August 2011 5:43 PM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: I Erbs; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! Patrick win! I win! Mine has to be worth the most. Not only is it autographed by Bill Emerson and Gerry Coker Well Patrick, mine is signed by Bill, Margot (on the foreword page) and Jack Sears next to the photo of his old race car VOK 490. Offers over 5,000 please Derek On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 7:14 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: G'day I win! I win! Mine has to be worth the most. Not only is it autographed by Bill Emerson and Gerry Coker, but it also comes with an invitation to the launch, personal letters from both the author and publisher along with a metal Healey badge inserted into a recess in the front of the slip case. Am I bragging? Of course, but it does help to own a featured car. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, 15 August 2011 2:44 PM To: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! wonder what my autographed edition is worth?? On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 9:13 PM, wrote: > Wow! is an understatement! > > > > In a message dated 8/14/2011 9:02:41 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > rrengineer.mike at att.net writes: > > Wow! > > http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 > > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 An5 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 02:45:01 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 16:45:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] rattle in my restored '65 AH 3000 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <005a01cc5b1b$6a802790$3f8076b0$@net> References: <005a01cc5b1b$6a802790$3f8076b0$@net> Message-ID: Randey - Sounds to me like your left side shock absorber has come loose. This is a recurring problem on all Austin Healeys due to poor shock mount design. Tighten up the shock mount bolts EXTRA tight, I usually push it to about 70 to 80 ft lbs or torque with a good quality spring washer. Regards, Alan On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 3:17 PM, randey brophy wrote: > I have a rattle in my fully restored '65 AH 3000 that occurs after the car > has warmed up. It seems to come from the drivers side (left) rear of the > car > and disappears when the brakes are lightly applied, coming back thereafter. > It's not consistent and I've had the rear left brake examined and it > appears > to be in good shape. Any thoughts as to what the rattle might be? Thanks. > > > > Randey Brophy > > 1747 Trafalgar St > > Vancouver BC > > V6K3R9 > > C: 604 928 1866 > > E: randey_brophy at telus.net > > "You are what you do!" > > www.brophysellshomes.com > > cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of > image001.png] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 02:49:02 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 16:49:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <5F1CEB376A53472F8341A06FC49364F1@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> <70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> <5F1CEB376A53472F8341A06FC49364F1@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: Let's see, 900 USD is worth about 70 Australian dollars at today's exchange rates, so I agree this book is slightly overpriced. Printing money has worked with great affect in Zimbabwe after all. Alan From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 03:20:58 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 19:20:58 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners Message-ID: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> Hey guys, Has anyone ever compiled a list and pics of the weird and wonderful BMC Special tools, spanners and sockets you need to restore a Healey (and their 'workable alternatives')? For example: Front crankshaft pulley nut removal requires (BMC Part number is xxxxxx) which is a six sided 1in Whitworh socket (thanks Alan Bromfield). Workable alternative is 1 11/16 AF (preferably 6 sided) socket... Rear hub nut is a weird 8 sided....... Temperature sensor is... Alternative tool can be homemade using an angle grinder, a long reach socket, and a hose clamp... Get it? Etc. I've googled, no authoritative list. So I'll make one and publish it at www,myaustinhealey.com (and yes, like all my stuff, any Healey Club mag can republish). And all those who contribute will be acknowledged. Trying to help Patrick Quinn Esq. has made me realise just how much stuff (information, tools, etc) I've either forgotten, misplaced, or lost in my divorce!! Feel free to add to this! Chris Sent from my iPhone From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 03:39:17 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 17:39:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners In-Reply-To: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> References: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Chris - I am a complete nerd in this department and just recently purchased the Lucas voltage regulator adjustment tool. As far as I am aware, there really isn't a very good work around other than possibly a shielded slotted screwdriver (or heck, a Thor knock off hammer when it really needs "fixin"). I'll send a pic when I unpack my house in a couple of weeks. Cheers, Alan On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 5:20 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey guys, > Has anyone ever compiled a list and pics of the weird and wonderful BMC > Special tools, spanners and sockets you need to restore a Healey (and their > 'workable alternatives')? > For example: > Front crankshaft pulley nut removal requires (BMC Part number is xxxxxx) > which is a six sided 1in Whitworh socket (thanks Alan Bromfield). Workable > alternative is 1 11/16 AF (preferably 6 sided) socket... > Rear hub nut is a weird 8 sided....... > Temperature sensor is... Alternative tool can be homemade using an angle > grinder, a long reach socket, and a hose clamp... > Get it? > Etc. > I've googled, no authoritative list. > So I'll make one and publish it at www,myaustinhealey.com (and yes, like > all my stuff, any Healey Club mag can republish). > And all those who contribute will be acknowledged. > Trying to help Patrick Quinn Esq. has made me realise just how much stuff > (information, tools, etc) I've either forgotten, misplaced, or lost in my > divorce!! > Feel free to add to this! > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Aug 15 04:05:27 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 03:05:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners In-Reply-To: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1313402727.28812.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Trevor Boicey has taken care of that: http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/sst.html Trevor has some other good ones here: http://www.boicey.com/comics.htm Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 8/15/11, Chris Dimmock wrote: From: Chris Dimmock Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Monday, August 15, 2011, 5:20 AM Hey guys, Has anyone ever compiled a list and pics of the weird and wonderful BMC Special tools, spanners and sockets you need to restore a Healey (and their 'workable alternatives')? From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Aug 15 04:58:09 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 06:58:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> <70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> <5F1CEB376A53472F8341A06FC49364F1@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <01fd01cc5b3a$38708230$a9518690$@verizon.net> I'm gonna put mine in a safe deposit box first thing in the morning. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 4:49 AM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! Let's see, 900 USD is worth about 70 Australian dollars at today's exchange rates, so I agree this book is slightly overpriced. Printing money has worked with great affect in Zimbabwe after all. Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 04:57:55 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 20:57:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners Message-ID: <75AB64D6-67F4-4C39-8E0F-02C1302D7E8C@gmail.com> Hey Rick. Point taken. A large hammer is always the last alternative special tool. But I wanted to document the right one, and the next best alternative. As the Phantom Agents would have said (if they ever restored a BMC car) "remember. A hammer is the last resort" http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phantom_Agents ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 15/08/2011, at 8:05 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Trevor Boicey has taken care of that: http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/sst.html > Trevor has some other good ones here: http://www.boicey.com/comics.htm > > Rick > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Mon, 8/15/11, Chris Dimmock wrote: > > From: Chris Dimmock > Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners > To: "Healey Mail List" > Date: Monday, August 15, 2011, 5:20 AM > > Hey guys, > Has anyone ever compiled a list and pics of the weird and wonderful > BMC Special tools, spanners and sockets you need to restore a Healey > (and their 'workable alternatives')? From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 05:14:14 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 21:14:14 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <01fd01cc5b3a$38708230$a9518690$@verizon.net> References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> <70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> <5F1CEB376A53472F8341A06FC49364F1@PatrickQuinnPC> <01fd01cc5b3a$38708230$a9518690$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <053DEEC5-FB51-45BA-8D03-06903B6F1E4A@gmail.com> Geez, I'm putting the $A 70 bucks in my wallet into the paypal account to get the $US900 credit!!!!! ;-) Love your exchange rate calculator Alan!!! ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 15/08/2011, at 8:58 PM, "John Sims" wrote: > I'm gonna put mine in a safe deposit box first thing in the morning. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 4:49 AM > To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! > > Let's see, 900 USD is worth about 70 Australian dollars at today's > exchange > rates, so I agree this book is slightly overpriced. Printing > money has > worked with great affect in Zimbabwe after all. > > Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 15 06:26:40 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 05:26:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] annoying rattle In-Reply-To: <4E48A669.9040303@justbrits.com> References: <54A3D9A86D8C4EF6AAB9B078FB47E7AC@authorizf47d14> <4E4882FB.80502@comcast.net> <4E48A669.9040303@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4E491080.10507@comcast.net> Ed, et al, Where should the 'liner' go, and how long should it be (I'm guessing more-or-less in the middle between the two wipers/as long as will fit)? Bob On 8/14/2011 9:54 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << ...the factory put a rubber hose over one section of the wiper rack. >> > > Interesting, Alan and exactly what I was going to (but Mr. Spidel > beat me to it ) opine and recommend the install of a short > section of rubber hose 'split' by the "annoyed Mr. O'Brien" > ! ! > > Personally John, I would split the hose on a diagonal and then > "thread" it on to the wiper sheath. Lessens chance of falling > off which would return said "annoying rattle" ! > > Rich C. can confirm or correct me but IIRC 3.8" I.D. should > do it. I would think some lightly applied Baby Oil to inside of > hose should assist you installing. > > Ed > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Aug 15 06:27:26 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 08:27:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> <70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> <5F1CEB376A53472F8341A06FC49364F1@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <01fe01cc5b46$b1ac01e0$150405a0$@verizon.net> AND, the Anderson/Moment book is listed at $650.00 --- 170459627092 Several available. I will sell my autographed copy for $1,000. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 4:49 AM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! Let's see, 900 USD is worth about 70 Australian dollars at today's exchange rates, so I agree this book is slightly overpriced. Printing money has worked with great affect in Zimbabwe after all. Alan From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 15 06:54:12 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 05:54:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners In-Reply-To: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> References: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E4916F4.4050603@comcast.net> How 'bout the 'special' tool you need to remove front wheel bearing dust caps (besides pliers)? I made one out of a length of all-thread with a 5/16" coupler welded to the end. For the brace, I cut up a section of a bicycle training wheel bracket. A couple of flatwashers and a nut completes the fab. To pull the seal out of a steering box I bent the tip of a flat-blade screwdriver 90deg. To insert the new seal I ground the tips of a couple small steel rods flat to use as 'drifts' (you need two to keep one side from popping out whilst you persuade the other). Bob On 8/15/2011 2:20 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey guys, > Has anyone ever compiled a list and pics of the weird and wonderful BMC Special tools, spanners and sockets you need > to restore a Healey (and their 'workable alternatives')? > For example: > Front crankshaft pulley nut removal requires (BMC Part number is xxxxxx) which is a six sided 1in Whitworh socket > (thanks Alan Bromfield). Workable alternative is 1 11/16 AF (preferably 6 sided) socket... > Rear hub nut is a weird 8 sided....... > Temperature sensor is... Alternative tool can be homemade using an angle grinder, a long reach socket, and a hose > clamp... > Get it? > Etc. > I've googled, no authoritative list. > So I'll make one and publish it at www,myaustinhealey.com (and yes, like all my stuff, any Healey Club mag can > republish). > And all those who contribute will be acknowledged. > Trying to help Patrick Quinn Esq. has made me realise just how much stuff (information, tools, etc) I've either > forgotten, misplaced, or lost in my divorce!! > Feel free to add to this! > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Aug 15 07:38:48 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 06:38:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] rattle in my restored '65 AH 3000 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <005a01cc5b1b$6a802790$3f8076b0$@net> References: <005a01cc5b1b$6a802790$3f8076b0$@net> Message-ID: <1313415528.4627.YahooMailNeo@web161012.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Check the Shock Mounting Bolts! ________________________________ From: randey brophy To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 3:17 AM Subject: [Healeys] rattle in my restored '65 AH 3000 BJ8 I have a rattle in my fully restored '65 AH 3000 that occurs after the car has warmed up. It seems to come from the drivers side (left) rear of the car and disappears when the brakes are lightly applied, coming back thereafter. It's not consistent and I've had the rear left brake examined and it appears to be in good shape. Any thoughts as to what the rattle might be? Thanks. Randey Brophy 1747 Trafalgar St Vancouver BC V6K3R9 C: 604 928 1866 E: randey_brophy at telus.net "You are what you do!" www.brophysellshomes.com cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 07:40:54 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 06:40:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners In-Reply-To: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> References: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> Message-ID: Chris, Robb Nortier founded British Tool Company many years ago and specializes in not only tool kit tools for MGs, Healeys, etc... he also has some of the original Churchill Service Tools. Check out his website... http://www.britishtool.com/index.htm Cheers, Curt On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 2:20 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey guys, > Has anyone ever compiled a list and pics of the weird and wonderful BMC > Special tools, spanners and sockets you need to restore a Healey (and their > 'workable alternatives')? > For example: > Front crankshaft pulley nut removal requires (BMC Part number is xxxxxx) > which is a six sided 1in Whitworh socket (thanks Alan Bromfield). Workable > alternative is 1 11/16 AF (preferably 6 sided) socket... > Rear hub nut is a weird 8 sided....... > Temperature sensor is... Alternative tool can be homemade using an angle > grinder, a long reach socket, and a hose clamp... > Get it? > Etc. > I've googled, no authoritative list. > So I'll make one and publish it at www,myaustinhealey.com (and yes, like > all my stuff, any Healey Club mag can republish). > And all those who contribute will be acknowledged. > Trying to help Patrick Quinn Esq. has made me realise just how much stuff > (information, tools, etc) I've either forgotten, misplaced, or lost in my > divorce!! > Feel free to add to this! > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/cnaarndt@**gmail.com From bgdrab at eastlink.ca Mon Aug 15 09:34:15 2011 From: bgdrab at eastlink.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 08:34:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000601cc5b60$cb250210$616f0630$@eastlink.ca> If you think EBay as high: >From Amazon.com - $894.00 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-k eywords=THE+HEALEY+BOOK++by+bill+emerson&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3ATHE+HEALEY+BOOK ++by+bill+emerson&ajr=0 Just after Christmas it was- are you ready for this - $1016.00 Does someone know something that we don't. It was available on Bill's website for $149.00 Brian Drab BJ8 AHOABC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 8:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wow! Wow! http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 An5 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bgdrab at eastlink.ca From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 10:16:03 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 09:16:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <000601cc5b60$cb250210$616f0630$@eastlink.ca> References: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <000601cc5b60$cb250210$616f0630$@eastlink.ca> Message-ID: Maybe Bill Emerson is behind this ;-D . On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 8:34 AM, Brian Drab wrote: > If you think EBay as high: > From Amazon.com - $894.00 > > http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-k > > eywords=THE+HEALEY+BOOK++by+bill+emerson&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3ATHE+HEALEY+BOOK > ++by+bill+emerson&ajr=0 > Just after Christmas it was- are you ready for this - $1016.00 Does someone > know something that we don't. > It was available on Bill's website for $149.00 > Brian Drab > BJ8 AHOABC > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Michael MacLean > Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 8:56 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wow! > > Wow! > > http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 > > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 An5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bgdrab at eastlink.ca > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 15 12:41:44 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:41:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer-New Route Message-ID: <60f4b.2d458388.3b7ac268@aol.com> Talk about a long link, thanks for the tiny url. Anyway, here's the latest update on the route John is going to take to return to the west coast. He has left South Carolina and is on his way. When he will be where is anybody's guess, but for now, this is the route he is going to take. I will try and update as often as possible as to his progress and needs along the way. Thank you all for following this journey and I know I for one, can't wait to hear the stories John has gathered on this journey. Maybe folks will just leave quarts of oil on the side of the roads as John makes his way. _http://www.google.com/maps?saddr=Columbia%2C+SC&daddr=33.74645%2C-84.42994+ to%3A37.67948%2C-97.29854+to%3A37.63141 %2C-98.7397+to%3A37.96049%2C-100.83808+to%3A38.08853%2C-102.60942+to%3A38.2522%2C-104.60568+to%3A38.73515%2C-108. 07065+to%3A38.89821%2C-111.65603+to%3A38.95214%2C-119.94957+to%3ASacramento% 2C+CA&hl=en&ll=33.211116%2C-96.152344&spn=55.162255%2C66.09375&sll=34.143635 %2C-86.176758&sspn=13.96418%2C16.523437&geocode=FUbPBgIdwoEr-ynj0TF5aaX4iDGW -nmz9Ago8w%3BFRLuAgIdjLP3-imbSm1wTwP1iDHyardUH0nfzA%3BFXjxPgIdlFcz-ilXeX3ub- O6hzGGBNjiRGbxoQ%3BFbI1PgIdDFod-inxcxd_XbOlhzGhV5S4UL5z4g%3BFSo7QwIdQFX9-Sn7 COFWtu8JhzHIFkiFtqQZVA%3BFVIvRQId9E3i-SlTZkTHmiUMhzEeSxccPleH4A%3BFaiuRwIdEN jD-Sk76n7wI6MThzH1uZrW1caguQ%3BFS4NTwIdBvmO-Sk5WwyzQk1HhzEcVayexYEJyQ%3BFSKK UQIdokNY-SljbDfQ4JdLhzHJfN8-Bm3Qag%3BFcxcUgId_rbZ-Cl5Fklgc5CZgDERj1d1ZwG1ug% 3BFUS1TAIdgCTC-Cn5l4OycsaagDHbfxl0qmofkg&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1%2C2%2C3% 2C4%2C5%2C6%2C7%2C8%2C9&z=4_ (http://www.google.com/maps?saddr=Columbia,+SC&daddr=33.74645,-84.42994+to:37.67948,-97.29854+to:37.63141,-98.7397+to:37.96 049,-100.83808+to:38.08853,-102.60942+to:38.2522,-104.60568+to:38.73515,-108 .07065+to:38.89821,-111.65603+to:38.95214,-119.94957+to:Sacramento,+CA&hl=en &ll=33.211116,-96.152344&spn=55.162255,66.09375&sll=34.143635,-86.176758&ssp n=13.96418,16.523437&geocode=FUbPBgIdwoEr-ynj0TF5aaX4iDGW-nmz9Ago8w;FRLuAgId jLP3-imbSm1wTwP1iDHyardUH0nfzA;FXjxPgIdlFcz-ilXeX3ub-O6hzGGBNjiRGbxoQ;FbI1Pg IdDFod-inxcxd_XbOlhzGhV5S4UL5z4g;FSo7QwIdQFX9-Sn7COFWtu8JhzHIFkiFtqQZVA;FVIv RQId9E3i-SlTZkTHmiUMhzEeSxccPleH4A;FaiuRwIdENjD-Sk76n7wI6MThzH1uZrW1caguQ;FS 4NTwIdBvmO-Sk5WwyzQk1HhzEcVayexYEJyQ;FSKKUQIdokNY-SljbDfQ4JdLhzHJfN8-Bm3Qag; FcxcUgId_rbZ-Cl5Fklgc5CZgDERj1d1ZwG1ug;FUS1TAIdgCTC-Cn5l4OycsaagDHbfxl0qmofk g&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9&z=4) _http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al_ (http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al) Steven Kingsbury From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 15 12:51:43 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:51:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer-the link Message-ID: <61726.40a4781a.3b7ac4bf@aol.com> Seems the link was so long, the list cute everything off, so here's the tinyurl: _http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al_ (http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al) Again, when John will be where is not exactly known, but I will try and post updates as often as possible. Leaving quarts of oil along the sides of the roads John will be traveling might be a nice gesture, as he's only taking 27 quarts with him in the trunk! Thanks for your interest and I will try and keep everyone up to date as to his progress. Steven Kingsbury From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 13:25:19 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 14:25:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer-the link In-Reply-To: <61726.40a4781a.3b7ac4bf@aol.com> References: <61726.40a4781a.3b7ac4bf@aol.com> Message-ID: steven, he can get 40w. non-detergent at auto-zone. cheers, jerry On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 1:51 PM, wrote: > Seems the link was so long, the list cute everything off, so here's the > tinyurl: > > > _http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al_ (http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al) > > Again, when John will be where is not exactly known, but I will try and > post updates as often as possible. Leaving quarts of oil along the sides of > the roads John will be traveling might be a nice gesture, as he's only > taking > 27 quarts with him in the trunk! Thanks for your interest and I will try > and keep everyone up to date as to his progress. > Steven Kingsbury > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From ynotink at msn.com Mon Aug 15 17:22:20 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 23:22:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: References: <1313380535.27392.YahooMailClassic@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>, <000601cc5b60$cb250210$616f0630$@eastlink.ca>, Message-ID: If not then he damned well should be... > From: eyera3000 at gmail.com > Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 09:16:03 -0700 > To: bgdrab at eastlink.ca > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wow! > > Maybe Bill Emerson is behind this ;-D . > On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 8:34 AM, Brian Drab wrote: > > > If you think EBay as high: > > From Amazon.com - $894.00 > > > > http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-k > > > > eywords=THE+HEALEY+BOOK++by+bill+emerson&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3ATHE+HEALEY+BOOK > > ++by+bill+emerson&ajr=0 > > Just after Christmas it was- are you ready for this - $1016.00 Does someone > > know something that we don't. > > It was available on Bill's website for $149.00 > > Brian Drab > > BJ8 AHOABC > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of Michael MacLean > > Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 8:56 PM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Wow! > > > > Wow! > > > > http://tinyurl.com/3nhfue7 > > > > Mike MacLean > > 56 BN2 > > 60 An5 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bgdrab at eastlink.ca > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 17:38:13 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 16:38:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] resto update Aug 15th Message-ID: howdy all, Hope you are enjoying driving your cars.... I am getting closer. Had to remove the intake to get to the exhaust manifold bolts. Good thing I did. I found that my buddy did not use any nuts on all of the bottom manifold studs. I missed two intake nuts when I was working on it. So now all intake and exhaust nuts are installed and tightened down. I still need to install the back manifold drain, later tonight. Hang my carbs, figure out the throttle cable kit from BCS. There are others out there I think I like better, but I have the BCS kit and I'm still trying to get the beast to roar by Labor Day weekend (Sept 2-5) for the Portland ABFM. Or at least before foul weather sets in for good. I still need to do a lot of little things before I can start it, but at this point I have a glimmer of hope for a month's end start. Lights, dash still to hook, up long battery cable to attach to frame, Stuff like that. cheers -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Aug 15 17:55:52 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 18:55:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer-New Route In-Reply-To: <60f4b.2d458388.3b7ac268@aol.com> Message-ID: <20110815235552.PZAAI.145645.root@hrndva-web11-z02> If anyone is in communication with John you can let him know I drove a 100 for years with low compression low oil pressures, leaks keepd feeding fluids they. Are tough motors, oh yeah also had a cracked head for who knows how long. Greg Lemon ---- ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > Talk about a long link, thanks for the tiny url. Anyway, here's the latest > update on the route John is going to take to return to the west coast. He > has left South Carolina and is on his way. When he will be where is > anybody's guess, but for now, this is the route he is going to take. I will try and > update as often as possible as to his progress and needs along the way. > Thank you all for following this journey and I know I for one, can't wait to > hear the stories John has gathered on this journey. > Maybe folks will just leave quarts of oil on the side of the roads as > John makes his way. > > _http://www.google.com/maps?saddr=Columbia%2C+SC&daddr=33.74645%2C-84.42994+ > to%3A37.67948%2C-97.29854+to%3A37.63141 > %2C-98.7397+to%3A37.96049%2C-100.83808+to%3A38.08853%2C-102.60942+to%3A38.2522%2C-104.60568+to%3A38.73515%2C-108. > 07065+to%3A38.89821%2C-111.65603+to%3A38.95214%2C-119.94957+to%3ASacramento% > 2C+CA&hl=en&ll=33.211116%2C-96.152344&spn=55.162255%2C66.09375&sll=34.143635 > %2C-86.176758&sspn=13.96418%2C16.523437&geocode=FUbPBgIdwoEr-ynj0TF5aaX4iDGW > -nmz9Ago8w%3BFRLuAgIdjLP3-imbSm1wTwP1iDHyardUH0nfzA%3BFXjxPgIdlFcz-ilXeX3ub- > O6hzGGBNjiRGbxoQ%3BFbI1PgIdDFod-inxcxd_XbOlhzGhV5S4UL5z4g%3BFSo7QwIdQFX9-Sn7 > COFWtu8JhzHIFkiFtqQZVA%3BFVIvRQId9E3i-SlTZkTHmiUMhzEeSxccPleH4A%3BFaiuRwIdEN > jD-Sk76n7wI6MThzH1uZrW1caguQ%3BFS4NTwIdBvmO-Sk5WwyzQk1HhzEcVayexYEJyQ%3BFSKK > UQIdokNY-SljbDfQ4JdLhzHJfN8-Bm3Qag%3BFcxcUgId_rbZ-Cl5Fklgc5CZgDERj1d1ZwG1ug% > 3BFUS1TAIdgCTC-Cn5l4OycsaagDHbfxl0qmofkg&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1%2C2%2C3% > 2C4%2C5%2C6%2C7%2C8%2C9&z=4_ > (http://www.google.com/maps?saddr=Columbia,+SC&daddr=33.74645,-84.42994+to:37.67948,-97.29854+to:37.63141,-98.7397+to:37.96 > 049,-100.83808+to:38.08853,-102.60942+to:38.2522,-104.60568+to:38.73515,-108 > .07065+to:38.89821,-111.65603+to:38.95214,-119.94957+to:Sacramento,+CA&hl=en > &ll=33.211116,-96.152344&spn=55.162255,66.09375&sll=34.143635,-86.176758&ssp > n=13.96418,16.523437&geocode=FUbPBgIdwoEr-ynj0TF5aaX4iDGW-nmz9Ago8w;FRLuAgId > jLP3-imbSm1wTwP1iDHyardUH0nfzA;FXjxPgIdlFcz-ilXeX3ub-O6hzGGBNjiRGbxoQ;FbI1Pg > IdDFod-inxcxd_XbOlhzGhV5S4UL5z4g;FSo7QwIdQFX9-Sn7COFWtu8JhzHIFkiFtqQZVA;FVIv > RQId9E3i-SlTZkTHmiUMhzEeSxccPleH4A;FaiuRwIdENjD-Sk76n7wI6MThzH1uZrW1caguQ;FS > 4NTwIdBvmO-Sk5WwyzQk1HhzEcVayexYEJyQ;FSKKUQIdokNY-SljbDfQ4JdLhzHJfN8-Bm3Qag; > FcxcUgId_rbZ-Cl5Fklgc5CZgDERj1d1ZwG1ug;FUS1TAIdgCTC-Cn5l4OycsaagDHbfxl0qmofk > g&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9&z=4) > > > _http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al_ (http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al) > > > Steven Kingsbury > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 18:13:49 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 08:13:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer-New Route In-Reply-To: <60f4b.2d458388.3b7ac268@aol.com> References: <60f4b.2d458388.3b7ac268@aol.com> Message-ID: Stephen - If his car is using a lot of oil and the oil pressure is low, the first place to look is to make sure the oil feed banjo bolt on the valve rocker assembly has not come loose. Please let him know to double check, I wish him well. Alan On 8/16/11, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > Talk about a long link, thanks for the tiny url. Anyway, here's the latest > update on the route John is going to take to return to the west coast. He > has left South Carolina and is on his way. When he will be where is > anybody's guess, but for now, this is the route he is going to take. I will > try and > update as often as possible as to his progress and needs along the way. > Thank you all for following this journey and I know I for one, can't wait > to > hear the stories John has gathered on this journey. > Maybe folks will just leave quarts of oil on the side of the roads as > John makes his way. > > _http://www.google.com/maps?saddr=Columbia%2C+SC&daddr=33.74645%2C-84.42994+ > to%3A37.67948%2C-97.29854+to%3A37.63141 > %2C-98.7397+to%3A37.96049%2C-100.83808+to%3A38.08853%2C-102.60942+to%3A38.2522%2C-104.60568+to%3A38.73515%2C-108. > 07065+to%3A38.89821%2C-111.65603+to%3A38.95214%2C-119.94957+to%3ASacramento% > 2C+CA&hl=en&ll=33.211116%2C-96.152344&spn=55.162255%2C66.09375&sll=34.143635 > %2C-86.176758&sspn=13.96418%2C16.523437&geocode=FUbPBgIdwoEr-ynj0TF5aaX4iDGW > -nmz9Ago8w%3BFRLuAgIdjLP3-imbSm1wTwP1iDHyardUH0nfzA%3BFXjxPgIdlFcz-ilXeX3ub- > O6hzGGBNjiRGbxoQ%3BFbI1PgIdDFod-inxcxd_XbOlhzGhV5S4UL5z4g%3BFSo7QwIdQFX9-Sn7 > COFWtu8JhzHIFkiFtqQZVA%3BFVIvRQId9E3i-SlTZkTHmiUMhzEeSxccPleH4A%3BFaiuRwIdEN > jD-Sk76n7wI6MThzH1uZrW1caguQ%3BFS4NTwIdBvmO-Sk5WwyzQk1HhzEcVayexYEJyQ%3BFSKK > UQIdokNY-SljbDfQ4JdLhzHJfN8-Bm3Qag%3BFcxcUgId_rbZ-Cl5Fklgc5CZgDERj1d1ZwG1ug% > 3BFUS1TAIdgCTC-Cn5l4OycsaagDHbfxl0qmofkg&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1%2C2%2C3% > 2C4%2C5%2C6%2C7%2C8%2C9&z=4_ > (http://www.google.com/maps?saddr=Columbia,+SC&daddr=33.74645,-84.42994+to:37.67948,-97.29854+to:37.63141,-98.7397+to:37.96 > 049,-100.83808+to:38.08853,-102.60942+to:38.2522,-104.60568+to:38.73515,-108 > .07065+to:38.89821,-111.65603+to:38.95214,-119.94957+to:Sacramento,+CA&hl=en > &ll=33.211116,-96.152344&spn=55.162255,66.09375&sll=34.143635,-86.176758&ssp > n=13.96418,16.523437&geocode=FUbPBgIdwoEr-ynj0TF5aaX4iDGW-nmz9Ago8w;FRLuAgId > jLP3-imbSm1wTwP1iDHyardUH0nfzA;FXjxPgIdlFcz-ilXeX3ub-O6hzGGBNjiRGbxoQ;FbI1Pg > IdDFod-inxcxd_XbOlhzGhV5S4UL5z4g;FSo7QwIdQFX9-Sn7COFWtu8JhzHIFkiFtqQZVA;FVIv > RQId9E3i-SlTZkTHmiUMhzEeSxccPleH4A;FaiuRwIdENjD-Sk76n7wI6MThzH1uZrW1caguQ;FS > 4NTwIdBvmO-Sk5WwyzQk1HhzEcVayexYEJyQ;FSKKUQIdokNY-SljbDfQ4JdLhzHJfN8-Bm3Qag; > FcxcUgId_rbZ-Cl5Fklgc5CZgDERj1d1ZwG1ug;FUS1TAIdgCTC-Cn5l4OycsaagDHbfxl0qmofk > g&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9&z=4) > > > _http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al_ (http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al) > > > Steven Kingsbury > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 15 18:59:33 2011 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 20:59:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] annoying rattle Message-ID: Someone posted about a annoying rattle under the dash. Try grabbing the brace that runs from the side to the steering shaft bracket under the dash when it happens. I had the same thing and bent the brace a small bit and its gone! Tightening the bolts didn't work, but the pressure from the bent bracket did it. Go figure. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 15 19:02:07 2011 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 21:02:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] upgraded gaskets Message-ID: Anyone have any experience (and do they make them for 6 cyl Healeys?) with the upgraded valve cover gaskets and side tappet cover gaskets? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From javrugtman at htcnet.org Mon Aug 15 19:26:44 2011 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 21:26:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] upgraded gaskets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E49C754.8060902@htcnet.org> I installed a red rubber type valve cover gasket on my 66. I had bought two, one of which I put on the 64 which has a AL cover, no leaks. On the 66 original valve cover, I stupidly didn't check it out before driving off on a day trip. Halfway we suddenly got an windscreen full of oil. Back at my shop, I discovered that any warping of the cover created a gap that the gasket would not fill. But, it was fixable, by setting the cover with gasket attached on a flat surface and tapping the edge down carefully with a rubber hammer, checking with a feeler gauge around the bottom, till there was no gap anywhere. Now there are no leaks. John 64/66 BJ8s On 8/15/2011 9:02 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > Anyone have any experience (and do they make them for 6 cyl Healeys?) with the > upgraded valve cover gaskets and side tappet cover gaskets? > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 15 20:20:57 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:20:57 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] upgraded gaskets In-Reply-To: <4E49C754.8060902@htcnet.org> References: <4E49C754.8060902@htcnet.org> Message-ID: I think the recommendation is to set the gasket in the cover using copper silicone sealant. The head surface will be flat so it won't need sealant. On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 9:26 AM, John Vrugtman wrote: > I installed a red rubber type valve cover gasket on my 66. I had bought > two, one of which I put on the 64 which has a AL cover, no leaks. On the 66 > original valve cover, I stupidly didn't check it out before driving off on a > day trip. Halfway we suddenly got an windscreen full of oil. Back at my > shop, I discovered that any warping of the cover created a gap that the > gasket would not fill. But, it was fixable, by setting the cover with > gasket attached on a flat surface and tapping the edge down carefully with a > rubber hammer, checking with a feeler gauge around the bottom, till there > was no gap anywhere. Now there are no leaks. > > John > 64/66 BJ8s > > > On 8/15/2011 9:02 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > >> Anyone have any experience (and do they make them for 6 cyl Healeys?) with >> the >> upgraded valve cover gaskets and side tappet cover gaskets? >> >> The Millers >> "British Car Nuts" >> >> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 >> >> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 >> >> 1964 MGB 40841 >> >> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 >> >> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test >> drive." >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 15 21:03:12 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 23:03:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer-New Route Message-ID: John just checked it, and it was good. Thanks for the tip though, wish it would have been that, as that would have been one of those aha moments and an easy fix. Oh well, he pushes on! Thanks, Steven In a message dated 8/15/2011 5:13:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, healey.nut at gmail.com writes: Stephen - If his car is using a lot of oil and the oil pressure is low, the first place to look is to make sure the oil feed banjo bolt on the valve rocker assembly has not come loose. Please let him know to double check, I wish him well. Alan On 8/16/11, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > Talk about a long link, thanks for the tiny url. Anyway, here's the latest > update on the route John is going to take to return to the west coast. He > has left South Carolina and is on his way. When he will be where is > anybody's guess, but for now, this is the route he is going to take. I will > try and > update as often as possible as to his progress and needs along the way. > Thank you all for following this journey and I know I for one, can't wait > to > hear the stories John has gathered on this journey. > Maybe folks will just leave quarts of oil on the side of the roads as > John makes his way. > > _http://www.google.com/maps?saddr=Columbia%2C+SC&daddr=33.74645%2C-84.42994+ > to%3A37.67948%2C-97.29854+to%3A37.63141 > %2C-98.7397+to%3A37.96049%2C-100.83808+to%3A38.08853%2C-102.60942+to%3A38.2522%2C-104.60568+to%3A38.73515%2C-108. > 07065+to%3A38.89821%2C-111.65603+to%3A38.95214%2C-119.94957+to%3ASacramento% > 2C+CA&hl=en&ll=33.211116%2C-96.152344&spn=55.162255%2C66.09375&sll=34.143635 > %2C-86.176758&sspn=13.96418%2C16.523437&geocode=FUbPBgIdwoEr-ynj0TF5aaX4iDGW > -nmz9Ago8w%3BFRLuAgIdjLP3-imbSm1wTwP1iDHyardUH0nfzA%3BFXjxPgIdlFcz-ilXeX3ub- > O6hzGGBNjiRGbxoQ%3BFbI1PgIdDFod-inxcxd_XbOlhzGhV5S4UL5z4g%3BFSo7QwIdQFX9-Sn7 > COFWtu8JhzHIFkiFtqQZVA%3BFVIvRQId9E3i-SlTZkTHmiUMhzEeSxccPleH4A%3BFaiuRwIdEN > jD-Sk76n7wI6MThzH1uZrW1caguQ%3BFS4NTwIdBvmO-Sk5WwyzQk1HhzEcVayexYEJyQ%3BFSKK > UQIdokNY-SljbDfQ4JdLhzHJfN8-Bm3Qag%3BFcxcUgId_rbZ-Cl5Fklgc5CZgDERj1d1ZwG1ug% > 3BFUS1TAIdgCTC-Cn5l4OycsaagDHbfxl0qmofkg&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1%2C2%2C3% > 2C4%2C5%2C6%2C7%2C8%2C9&z=4_ > (http://www.google.com/maps?saddr=Columbia,+SC&daddr=33.74645,-84.42994+to:37.67948,-97.29854+to:37.63141,-98.7397+to:37.96 > 049,-100.83808+to:38.08853,-102.60942+to:38.2522,-104.60568+to:38.73515,-108 > .07065+to:38.89821,-111.65603+to:38.95214,-119.94957+to:Sacramento,+CA&hl=en > &ll=33.211116,-96.152344&spn=55.162255,66.09375&sll=34.143635,-86.176758&ssp > n=13.96418,16.523437&geocode=FUbPBgIdwoEr-ynj0TF5aaX4iDGW-nmz9Ago8w;FRLuAgId > jLP3-imbSm1wTwP1iDHyardUH0nfzA;FXjxPgIdlFcz-ilXeX3ub-O6hzGG BNjiRGbxoQ;FbI1Pg > IdDFod-inxcxd_XbOlhzGhV5S4UL5z4g;FSo7QwIdQFX9-Sn7COFWtu8JhzHIFkiFtqQZVA;FVIv > RQId9E3i-SlTZkTHmiUMhzEeSxccPleH4A;FaiuRwIdENjD-Sk76n7wI6MThzH1uZrW1caguQ;FS > 4NTwIdBvmO-Sk5WwyzQk1HhzEcVayexYEJyQ;FSKKUQIdokNY-SljbDfQ4JdLhzHJfN8-Bm3Qag; > FcxcUgId_rbZ-Cl5Fklgc5CZgDERj1d1ZwG1ug;FUS1TAIdgCTC-Cn5l4OycsaagDHbfxl0qmofk > g&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9&z=4) > > > _http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al_ (http://tinyurl.com/3gyl5al) > > > Steven Kingsbury > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Tue Aug 16 00:19:12 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 08:19:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] upgraded gaskets In-Reply-To: References: <4E49C754.8060902@htcnet.org> Message-ID: The "rallye-type" gasket from AH4H works, but looks a bit odd in a neat engine bay. Gergo 2011/8/16 Alan Seigrist > I think the recommendation is to set the gasket in the cover using copper > silicone sealant. The head surface will be flat so it won't need sealant. > > On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 9:26 AM, John Vrugtman >wrote: > > > I installed a red rubber type valve cover gasket on my 66. I had bought > > two, one of which I put on the 64 which has a AL cover, no leaks. On the > 66 > > original valve cover, I stupidly didn't check it out before driving off > on a > > day trip. Halfway we suddenly got an windscreen full of oil. Back at my > > shop, I discovered that any warping of the cover created a gap that the > > gasket would not fill. But, it was fixable, by setting the cover with > > gasket attached on a flat surface and tapping the edge down carefully > with a > > rubber hammer, checking with a feeler gauge around the bottom, till there > > was no gap anywhere. Now there are no leaks. > > > > John > > 64/66 BJ8s > > > > > > On 8/15/2011 9:02 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > > > >> Anyone have any experience (and do they make them for 6 cyl Healeys?) > with > >> the > >> upgraded valve cover gaskets and side tappet cover gaskets? > >> > >> The Millers > >> "British Car Nuts" > >> > >> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > >> > >> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > >> > >> 1964 MGB 40841 > >> > >> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > >> > >> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > >> drive." > >> > > ______________________________**_________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html< > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 16 07:59:48 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 07:59:48 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Healey Dinner-not! Message-ID: <895CFAA3A43C44AE858F70EF91CC0561@oscar> _____ From: David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:56 AM To: 'William N. Sullivan'; 'Lawrence, William'; 'Judy Wrobel'; 'Anthony Lucero'; 'Bob and Toni Smith'; 'Bob Gough'; 'Bob Walton'; 'Bonnie Bagley'; 'Brad Day'; 'D Shriver'; 'Dan Prendergraft'; 'David Wylie'; 'Donna Shriver'; 'Ed Merewether'; 'Emilio Verastegui'; 'Gary Hahs'; 'Greg Mann'; 'Henry Morrison'; 'Jim Routt'; 'John and Barbara Weinlein'; 'John and Betty Shelton'; 'John and Lynn'; 'John Greenfield'; 'Joyce and Bill Sullivan'; 'Ken Murphy'; 'Marcel Reynolds'; 'Mark Campbell'; 'Mark Moll'; 'Mike and Judy Buckner'; 'Nance Crow '; 'Olin Kane'; 'Parker, Thomas'; 'Philip Langland'; 'Ric Tafoya'; 'Ross and Michelle Kells'; 'Sam Bagby'; 'Sharon Sprague'; 'Sharon Sprague and Bob Lee'; 'V Ciotti'; 'William Sullivan' Subject: RE: Healey Dinner-not! I don't know how many in our club are following John Nikas on his crisscross of the US in a '53 Healey (here: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359 ) but it's been an ordeal for him. If he can make it back here I may be replacing the engine with a spare I have here, if we're lucky it may just be a tired oil pump, anyway I'm looking for volunteers to help. It will probably be tomorrow night or Thursday. Let me know if you can help out and/or if anyone has a 100 oil pump that is serviceable. Dave PS be sure to click the "Like" link on the Face book page.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world _____ From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Aug 16 10:41:35 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 18:41:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Book from 1960 Message-ID: I have just won an ebay auction for a book entitled Austin Healey - A practical Guide to Repairs and Maintenance by Davidson. Published by Pearsons in 1960 with a foreward by Donald Healey Anybody come across this book before? I haven't yet received it so don't have any more details, but its not one I'm familiar with. Derek From rjswain at hotmail.com Tue Aug 16 11:05:49 2011 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 17:05:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Book from 1960 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Derek I have a copy . It seems I forgot to return it to the library in 1970. It's a small book, about 5"x7", with about 190 pages. I believe I found it useful when I had my 100, back in 1970. Rick Swain'59 BN4 > > I have just won an ebay auction for a book entitled Austin Healey - A > practical Guide to Repairs and Maintenance by Davidson. Published by > Pearsons in 1960 with a foreward by Donald Healey > > Anybody come across this book before? I haven't yet received it so don't > have any more details, but its not one I'm familiar with. > Derek From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Tue Aug 16 11:09:57 2011 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:09:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners In-Reply-To: <4E4916F4.4050603@comcast.net> References: <58942A7A-FAB6-4394-AFB3-1CB6E659A5F1@gmail.com> <4E4916F4.4050603@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1313514597.96350.YahooMailNeo@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This is a topic we don't see a lot of discussion about. I proposed the SoCal club to put together a "library" of tools that can be loaned out. Lot's of these tools you need only once or so. For a private person it's not very affordable to collect all these tools. I still need to start making a list and get started on this. Are there other clubs who've done this? And then there are the little custom tools one fabricates to get the job done. Yesterday evening I went through a box with old, broken and bad tools and found a 5" taiwanese pliers from a lawnmower toolkit I believe. I cut two slots in the end of the arms, not the jaws. Now closing bullet connectors on the wiring harness is a snap! Or cutting following Dave Porter's advice a couple years ago and cutting a 1 7/8" socket in half and welding a 10" pipe between the ends to create a really, really deep socket to take a most stubborn nut of a transmission input shaft. With the impact wrench this became easy and it was important to not damage the shaft. Of course the best "tool" for me is the Healey email list. ;-) Love to hear and learn more about the tools topic. Bert ________________________________ From: Bob Spidell To: Chris Dimmock Cc: Healey Mail List Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 5:54 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Special tools/ weird spanners How 'bout the 'special' tool you need to remove front wheel bearing dust caps (besides pliers)? I made one out of a length of all-thread with a 5/16" coupler welded to the end. For the brace, I cut up a section of a bicycle training wheel bracket. A couple of flatwashers and a nut completes the fab. To pull the seal out of a steering box I bent the tip of a flat-blade screwdriver 90deg. To insert the new seal I ground the tips of a couple small steel rods flat to use as 'drifts' (you need two to keep one side from popping out whilst you persuade the other). Bob On 8/15/2011 2:20 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey guys, > Has anyone ever compiled a list and pics of the weird and wonderful BMC Special tools, spanners and sockets you need to restore a Healey (and their 'workable alternatives')? > For example: > Front crankshaft pulley nut removal requires (BMC Part number is xxxxxx) which is a six sided 1in Whitworh socket (thanks Alan Bromfield). Workable alternative is 1 11/16 AF (preferably 6 sided) socket... > Rear hub nut is a weird 8 sided....... > Temperature sensor is... Alternative tool can be homemade using an angle grinder, a long reach socket, and a hose clamp... > Get it? > Etc. > I've googled, no authoritative list. > So I'll make one and publish it at www,myaustinhealey.com (and yes, like all my stuff, any Healey Club mag can republish). > And all those who contribute will be acknowledged. > Trying to help Patrick Quinn Esq. has made me realise just how much stuff (information, tools, etc) I've either forgotten, misplaced, or lost in my divorce!! > Feel free to add to this! > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com From peter.svilans at rogers.com Tue Aug 16 11:34:12 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 13:34:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey book from 1960 Message-ID: <3EFD41BB5FC846038423BADF61E40B07@9535DEE118EC44B> Its a terriffic little book, jam-packed with Healey technical stuff (albeit condensed to fit the glovebox size) . Donald Healey himself gives an historical overview, there is a competition mods section at the back, and there are tons of illustrations taken from the workshop manual. The Sprite, beloved of Donald, is given equal billing. Another book in the same vein worth tracking down is "Austin-Healey Guide" by Donald Healey and his best buddy Tommy Wisdom. Most commonly seen in paperback as part of the Modern Sports Car Series in the US, its actually nearly identical to the hardcover "The Austin-Healey" by Healey and Wisdom, published in the UK at the same time in 1959. DMH always made sure the USA was in the picture when he did something. Peter From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 16 11:45:51 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 13:45:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Book from 1960 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003b01cc5c3c$575dcce0$061966a0$@net> Is that one of the "Modern Sports Car" series? Back in 1973 I found "Care and Repair of Your Sports Car" by Ocee Rich which covered all the British sports cars of the time including tune ups, etc. I read every word and was able to absorb quite a bit and from that book, stuck out to do my own tuning of a very tired MGA. I loaned the book to somebody decades ago and never got it back. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Swain Sent: 2011-08-16 1:06 To: derek.c.job at gmail.com; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Book from 1960 Derek I have a copy . It seems I forgot to return it to the library in 1970. It's a small book, about 5"x7", with about 190 pages. I believe I found it useful when I had my 100, back in 1970. Rick Swain'59 BN4 > > I have just won an ebay auction for a book entitled Austin Healey - A > practical Guide to Repairs and Maintenance by Davidson. Published by > Pearsons in 1960 with a foreward by Donald Healey > > Anybody come across this book before? I haven't yet received it so don't > have any more details, but its not one I'm familiar with. > Derek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Tue Aug 16 12:48:40 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 14:48:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer-New Route Message-ID: <1e5f9.6cda65a.3b7c1587@aol.com> If you're following John's journey, with the problems that have arisen, you'll know that his route has changed and if you're new to this adventure, here's the latest: he is now headed to Nashville, then on through Little Rock, through Oklahoma City, through Amarillo, and then on to Albuquerque to Dave Porter's where a marathon repair stop is planned. Not sure as to when John will be where, but if you're any where near this new route, we may be sending out distress calls for help along the way. The car is probably making it just on the shear will of John himself, or maybe it's thinking it's back in London traffic on a taxi run, or the support of everyone's wishes, not sure, but it is making progress and as always, I will update with any information I receive and pass it along. Thanks in advance for any help we might need and stay tuned! Steven Kingsbury From Editorgary at aol.com Tue Aug 16 13:01:25 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 15:01:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey A Practical Guide Message-ID: <2a852.6f2ecc24.3b7c1885@aol.com> These old, out-of-print, and often long-lost books are wonderful to have in your collection. That specific one can be found on www.alibris.com from one used-book dealer for $40, and another for $60. When you hear about any old car book, check alibris and amazon, which between them represent nearly all used-book dealers of any significance in the world. Have fun., Gary From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 16 13:33:04 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 12:33:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey A Practical Guide In-Reply-To: <2a852.6f2ecc24.3b7c1885@aol.com> References: <2a852.6f2ecc24.3b7c1885@aol.com> Message-ID: <4CB5C14B-795E-482D-A67A-D8561C983A14@cox.net> while those two online resources can be effective, they missed the dealer I was able to find who had three of the coveted Moment Healey books @240.00 usd each. Sent from my iPhone, so autocorrects may have inserted some odd words. On Aug 16, 2011, at 12:01 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: > These old, out-of-print, and often long-lost books are wonderful to have in > your collection. That specific one can be found on www.alibris.com from one > used-book dealer for $40, and another for $60. When you hear about any old > car book, check alibris and amazon, which between them represent nearly all > used-book dealers of any significance in the world. > Have fun., > Gary > _________________________________ From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 16 13:42:16 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 14:42:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey A Practical Guide In-Reply-To: <4CB5C14B-795E-482D-A67A-D8561C983A14@cox.net> References: <2a852.6f2ecc24.3b7c1885@aol.com> <4CB5C14B-795E-482D-A67A-D8561C983A14@cox.net> Message-ID: <4E4AC818.6070607@justbrits.com> << ...they missed the dealer... >> Is there some reason Rick, that you are not sharing the name and/or URL of said Dealer ??? Enquiring minds need............................... Ed From Editorgary at aol.com Tue Aug 16 14:02:15 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 16:02:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey A Practical Guide Message-ID: <1b56e.55397a44.3b7c26c7@aol.com> In a message dated 8/16/11 12:33:11 PM, e-wilkins at cox.net writes: > while those two online resources can be effective, they missed the dealer > I was able to find who had three of the coveted Moment Healey books > @240.00 usd each. > Congratulations. But what are you going to do with Three(!) copies. Question -- were they autographed? Modifieds aren't worth as much as complete originals, you know. And did any of them include the errata pages tucked in the back? Any grease stains, or were they all bookshelf queens? G. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 16 14:08:33 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:08:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey A Practical Guide In-Reply-To: <4E4AC818.6070607@justbrits.com> References: <2a852.6f2ecc24.3b7c1885@aol.com> <4CB5C14B-795E-482D-A67A-D8561C983A14@cox.net> <4E4AC818.6070607@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4E4ACE41.3040305@chello.nl> And do check ebay and similar sites regularly. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From peter.svilans at rogers.com Tue Aug 16 14:40:18 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 16:40:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey A Practical Guide Message-ID: <18FA86823C8D419D8CAA2DCFC10F98AF@9535DEE118EC44B> I mostly search http://www.abebooks.com/ , named not after a president, but short for Advanced Book Exchange. While Alibris brings up 102 results for "Austin-Healey", Abebooks brings up 930. While these excellent sites make finding books a snap, book collecting has lost some of its magic. Wandering through musty old bookshops has always been part of the appeal, but these money-losing places are closing down at an alarming rate. Now book finding has become a vending machine. Drop your coin in the slot and "clunk", out comes your food pellet. Peter From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 16 16:29:23 2011 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 18:29:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil routing in engine Message-ID: I have never seen a diagram of the 6 cyl Healey engine oil passages. Is it oil pump, pressure relief valve, oil filter, rod/ main bearings, cam bearings, rockers, drain to tappets? Are there any branch out points or is it a direct run? Where is the pressure gauge line in the run? Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 16 17:31:26 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 16:31:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil routing in engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's all branches/parallel Sent from my iPhone, so autocorrects may have inserted some odd words. On Aug 16, 2011, at 3:29 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > I have never seen a diagram of the 6 cyl Healey engine oil passages. Is it > oil pump, pressure relief valve, oil filter, rod/ main bearings, cam bearings, > rockers, drain to tappets? Are there any branch out points or is it a direct > run? Where is the pressure gauge line in the run? Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From cleona44 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 16 18:02:41 2011 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 20:02:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey book from 1960 In-Reply-To: <3EFD41BB5FC846038423BADF61E40B07@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <3EFD41BB5FC846038423BADF61E40B07@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: Derek - as Peter recommends, both of these books should be a part of your Healey library - they are must haves - jim lesher > From: peter.svilans at rogers.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 13:34:12 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey book from 1960 > > Its a terriffic little book, jam-packed with Healey technical stuff (albeit > condensed to fit the glovebox size) . Donald Healey himself gives an > historical overview, there is a competition mods section at the back, and > there are tons of illustrations taken from the workshop manual. The Sprite, > beloved of Donald, is given equal billing. > > Another book in the same vein worth tracking down is "Austin-Healey Guide" by > Donald Healey and his best buddy Tommy Wisdom. Most commonly seen in paperback > as part of the Modern Sports Car Series in the US, its actually nearly > identical to the hardcover "The Austin-Healey" by Healey and Wisdom, published > in the UK at the same time in 1959. DMH always made sure the USA was in the > picture when he did something. > > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 16 19:26:01 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 18:26:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil routing in engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E4B18A9.7080807@comcast.net> It's simple. Oil goes in a hole in the valve cover and comes out from the front and rear mains, the pan gasket, the valve cover, the carburettors, etc. Bob On 8/16/2011 3:29 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > I have never seen a diagram of the 6 cyl Healey engine oil passages. Is it > oil pump, pressure relief valve, oil filter, rod/ main bearings, cam bearings, > rockers, drain to tappets? Are there any branch out points or is it a direct > run? Where is the pressure gauge line in the run? Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Aug 16 20:13:35 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 19:13:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bus, cape International cable Message-ID: Hello, I am seeking photos of the throttle cable kit in place, that a number of suppliers sell. I contacted the seller of my kit to obtain another copy on the installation instruction I misplaced, but have had to reply. So I'm hoping I can work backwards with some photo help. I also need photos of how it was attached to the pedal and how it passed through the firewall. I'm waiting to find out before I hang my carbs, which I need to do ASAP. Send off list to me. Thanks From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Aug 16 21:13:20 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 23:13:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin-Healey A Practical Guide References: <1b56e.55397a44.3b7c26c7@aol.com> Message-ID: <038d01cc5c8b$9e4d0900$dae71b00$@verizon.net> One bookshelf queen with both autographs, one with stains. Both with errata pages. Neither for sale. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 4:02 PM To: e-wilkins at cox.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey A Practical Guide In a message dated 8/16/11 12:33:11 PM, e-wilkins at cox.net writes: > while those two online resources can be effective, they missed the > dealer I was able to find who had three of the coveted Moment Healey > books > @240.00 usd each. > Congratulations. But what are you going to do with Three(!) copies. Question -- were they autographed? Modifieds aren't worth as much as complete originals, you know. And did any of them include the errata pages tucked in the back? Any grease stains, or were they all bookshelf queens? G. From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Aug 16 22:09:45 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 21:09:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] trial fit of carbs Message-ID: Howdy. Got my manifolds bolted down. new drains for intake manifold installed. Before I bolt the carbs down, what else should I be looking to do before they get installed?What tasks are easier with them removed? TIA -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From warthodson at aol.com Wed Aug 17 07:29:14 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 09:29:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil routing in engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE2AF8CABDD595-13B8-18557@webmail-d168.sysops.aol.com> One aspect of the lube system that seems strange to me is that not all of the cam bearings have a pressurized oil feed. From memory, I think it is the third cam bearing from the from that does not have an oil feed. Gary Hodson n Aug 16, 2011, at 3:29 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > I have never seen a diagram of the 6 cyl Healey engine oil passages. Is it oil pump, pressure relief valve, oil filter, rod/ main bearings, cam earings, rockers, drain to tappets? Are there any branch out points or is it a irect run? Where is the pressure gauge line in the run? Just curious. From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Aug 17 08:08:14 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 00:08:14 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil routing in engine In-Reply-To: <8CE2AF8CABDD595-13B8-18557@webmail-d168.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE2AF8CABDD595-13B8-18557@webmail-d168.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Gary. The oil feed to the C Series engine cam (i.e 6 cyl Healey) and the A series cam (i.e spridgets) and the B Series (i.e. Mgbs etc) is identical. There is no positive lubrication to the cam followers. It is a 'splash and pray" lubrication system. Which fails on sedans after 50,000 miles at 3,500 - 4,000 rpm. It fails much faster in a Healey at closer to 5,000 - 5.500 rpm. And on a race motor over 6,000 rpm - forget it. I am now 90% through an article on this. I did a "show and tell" session at our last Healey Club meeting. Thaw major lubrication issue on our engines is the cam followers, and the oil pump drive on the cam. There are 2 solutions. One is cheap, and modifies existing stuff, and is fine for the mostly sub 5,000 rpm road cars. The other is a redesiged cam, which fixes the design issue, and provided longevity for cars taken over 5,000 rpm regularly. Give me a day or two.... Chris www.myaustinhealey.com. Sent from my iPhone On 17/08/2011, at 11:29 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > One aspect of the lube system that seems strange to me is that not > all of the > cam bearings have a pressurized oil feed. From memory, I think it is > the third > cam bearing from the from that does not have an oil feed. > Gary Hodson > > > > > n Aug 16, 2011, at 3:29 PM, S and T Miller > wrote: >> I have never seen a diagram of the 6 cyl Healey engine oil >> passages. Is it > oil pump, pressure relief valve, oil filter, rod/ main bearings, cam > earings, > rockers, drain to tappets? Are there any branch out points or is it a > irect > run? Where is the pressure gauge line in the run? Just curious. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Aug 17 09:04:38 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 08:04:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bus, cape International cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Meant to write BCS and Cape International type cable kit On Aug 16, 2011 7:13 PM, "i erbs" wrote: > Hello, > I am seeking photos of the throttle cable kit in place, that a number of > suppliers sell. I contacted the seller of my kit to obtain another copy on > the installation instruction I misplaced, but have had to reply. So I'm > hoping I can work backwards with some photo help. I also need photos of how > it was attached to the pedal and how it passed through the firewall. I'm > waiting to find out before I hang my carbs, which I need to do ASAP. > Send off list to me. > Thanks From Editorgary at aol.com Wed Aug 17 09:26:32 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 11:26:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Old Books and old memories Message-ID: <85a49.5bca652e.3b7d37a8@aol.com> In a message dated 8/17/11 6:37:08 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > While these excellent sites make finding books a snap, book collecting > has > lost some of its magic. Wandering through musty old bookshops has always > been part of the appeal, but these money-losing places are closing down > at an > alarming rate. Now book finding has become a vending machine. Drop your > coin > in the slot and "clunk", out comes your food pellet. > > Peter > Too true, unfortunately. Another one of those memories of the way things used to be. There were once two old book stores in our village (25,000 people) alone, and I could always count on a nice hour or two first checking the auto shelves (found some really interesting high school autoshop text books that I still refer to all the time for basic explanations of points systems, electrics trouble-shooting, etc. that I wouldn't have even known about), and then chatting with the owner who would be sitting with his cat in an overstuffed chair in the back of the shop. Now it's gone the way of drive-in movies and comic book racks in the drug store next to the soda fountain. We didn't realize how good we had it during that brief halcyon period of the 1950s and early 1960s after Korea and before Viet Nam. G. From jstmorris at yahoo.com Wed Aug 17 12:14:19 2011 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 11:14:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Old Books and old memories In-Reply-To: <85a49.5bca652e.3b7d37a8@aol.com> Message-ID: <1313604859.97581.YahooMailClassic@web30306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Peter & Gary;B Sorry, but I disagree with both of you.B Those days still exist and the internet can make it even more magical. B Last Sunday, Barb & I went for a lovely drive and hit two general flea markets in two different communities.B At the first, I found a fourth edition of John Thornleybs bMaintaining the Breedb for a third of the price on Amazon and Bill Piggottbs bTriumph TR2 to 6b.B I also came across several Sprite brochures and a BMC/MGC workshop manual but the prices were unreasonable.B At the second flea market I found seven issues of bStandard-Triumph Reviewb magazine from 1960 to 1963 at $1 each.B Those treasures and the magic of the search still exist.B B Why, a year ago, through a connection on the internet, I got a fully bound set of bSafety Fastb from the first issue in 1959 through to 1990 for $100 + shipping.B And earlier this year a local racer decided to unload five boxes of boldb British magazines from the 50bs & 60bs b bMotor Racingb, the official organ of the British Racing and Sports Car Club, and bMotor Sportb.B B Over the years I have also collected all issues of the magazines issued by the AHCA and AHCUSA.B B This is just the tip of the iceberg b the treasures still exist and the thrill of the hunt remains.B All you have to do is look.B Oh yes, you also have to persuade SWMBO to live with the musty smells. :-)B Its called fun. B --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 8/17/11, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: From: Editorgary at aol.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Books and old memories To: healeys at autox.team.net Received: Wednesday, August 17, 2011, 11:26 AM In a message dated 8/17/11 6:37:08 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > While these excellent sites make finding books a snap,B book collecting has > lost some of its magic.B B B Wandering through musty old bookshops has always > been part of the appeal,B but these money-losing places are closing downB at an > alarming rate.B Now book finding has become a vending machine.B Drop your > coinB in the slot and "clunk", out comes your food pellet. > > Peter > Too true, unfortunately. Another one of those memories of the way things used to be. There were once two old book stores in our village (25,000 people) alone, and I could always count on a nice hour or two first checking the auto shelves (found some really interesting high school autoshop text books that I still refer to all the time for basic explanations of points systems, electrics trouble-shooting, etc. that I wouldn't have even known about), and then chatting with the owner who would be sitting with his cat in an overstuffed chair in the back of the shop.B Now it's gone the way of drive-in movies and comic book racks in the drug store next to the soda fountain.B We didn't realize how good we had it during that brief halcyon period of the 1950s and early 1960s after Korea and before Viet Nam. G. From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Wed Aug 17 12:46:55 2011 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 14:46:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil routing in engine Message-ID: Does the oil go to the oil filter first then branch out? I have always understood that if the relief valve is opened because of high pressure it drains back into the oil pan through the hole that "could" be covered by the sump gasket. So if the oil goes to the pressure relief valve first any by passed unfiltered oil would simply drain back into the pan to be sucked back up into the oil pump. Right/ wrong? Message: 1 Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 00:08:14 +1000 From: Chris Dimmock To: "warthodson at aol.com" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" , "stmiller96 at hotmail.com" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil routing in engine Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; delsp=yes Gary. The oil feed to the C Series engine cam (i.e 6 cyl Healey) and the A series cam (i.e spridgets) and the B Series (i.e. Mgbs etc) is identical. There is no positive lubrication to the cam followers. It is a 'splash and pray" lubrication system. Which fails on sedans after 50,000 miles at 3,500 - 4,000 rpm. It fails much faster in a Healey at closer to 5,000 - 5.500 rpm. And on a race motor over 6,000 rpm - forget it. I am now 90% through an article on this. I did a "show and tell" session at our last Healey Club meeting. Thaw major lubrication issue on our engines is the cam followers, and the oil pump drive on the cam. There are 2 solutions. One is cheap, and modifies existing stuff, and is fine for the mostly sub 5,000 rpm road cars. The other is a redesiged cam, which fixes the design issue, and provided longevity for cars taken over 5,000 rpm regularly. Give me a day or two.... Chris www.myaustinhealey.com. From Editorgary at aol.com Wed Aug 17 12:52:59 2011 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 14:52:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Old Books and old memories Message-ID: <8eac7.714e1ee.3b7d680b@aol.com> You must have some amazing flea markets up there in Canada, eh? G. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 17 13:08:21 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 21:08:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Old Books and old memories In-Reply-To: <8eac7.714e1ee.3b7d680b@aol.com> References: <8eac7.714e1ee.3b7d680b@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E4C11A5.7060809@chello.nl> Luckily we have still many old book shops and antiquarians all over Europe. However I also do like the new opportunities offered by the internet. I have found many books, brochures and other bits and pieces, also not always car related, through ebay. Often for less than $1, shipping usually more than the price of the book/brochure. The fun of searching on e.g. ebay is the same as in the book shop. OK, amazon.com is an easy way out, like ordering a book at a book shop, however it is way to expensive most of the time. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From peter.svilans at rogers.com Wed Aug 17 13:50:11 2011 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:50:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Old books and old memories Message-ID: <32308BD713704066A625FC1E94265872@9535DEE118EC44B> Didn't mean to sound so cynical. Toronto and the GTA actually has a high percentage of bookstores per capita. A few years ago, I was reunited with some old high school friends, and we now have regular monthly bookstore outings. Don't yet have Scott's acute nose for sniffing out the real treasures, though. The late fifties and early sixties were fabulous times for sports cars. And for dreams and optimism for a bright new future in general. Long ago I pieced together complete runs of Road & Track, Sports Cars Illustrated, Sports Car Graphic and AQ among others to relive this era. I can practically recite word for word the Healey BN 6 test in SCI with its wonderful three quarter rear view of the sleek new two-seater. And the "Healey's Six-Slug Slugger" article in SCG: all were truly inspirational for a twenty-something kid with a rusty BN 6 wreck in the driveway. Peter From healeyguy at bredband.net Wed Aug 17 14:08:12 2011 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 22:08:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? Message-ID: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net> Hi Got the attached mail from paypal at autox.team.net. Does anyone know what this is? It doesn't really make sense to me. There is a reference to site www.sakwiki.com which is all about Swiss army knifes. What that has to do with the mailing list and my Paypal account is beyond me. Per in Sweden -------- Ursprungligt meddelande -------- Dmne: About Your Account Datum: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:35:47 +0200 (added by postmaster at mm-proxy1.telenor.se) Fren: PayPal Security Center Till: healeyguy at bredband.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Message-Id: <20110817133555.E66AB187A1F at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 07:35:55 -0600 (MDT)

Hi Dear..
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 Account ID PP1173G458 ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3839 - Release Date: 08/16/11 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 17 14:32:03 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 22:32:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? In-Reply-To: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net> References: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net> Message-ID: <4E4C2543.8010806@chello.nl> Scam, DELETE! Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From nelson_wd at msn.com Wed Aug 17 14:37:03 2011 From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:37:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Old books and old memories In-Reply-To: <32308BD713704066A625FC1E94265872@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <32308BD713704066A625FC1E94265872@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: Peter: I love your comment:"truly inpirational +++ with a rusty BN6 in the driveway". I have early fond memories of my BN 7 and wrote the article in this month's Healey Magazine about my 7,000 mile Healey trip through Mexico in 1963. I was concerned that the article had too much sentimentality and too little Healey in it, but I share your dreams of the fifties and sixties. I can still feel the Healey power and hear that unique sound and expect to recapture the inspiration when I finish my current Healey restoration project. bill n > From: peter.svilans at rogers.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:50:11 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Old books and old memories > > Didn't mean to sound so cynical. Toronto and the GTA actually has a high > percentage of bookstores per capita. A few years ago, I was reunited with > some old high school friends, and we now have regular monthly bookstore > outings. Don't yet have Scott's acute nose for sniffing out the real > treasures, though. > > The late fifties and early sixties were fabulous times for sports cars. And > for dreams and optimism for a bright new future in general. > > Long ago I pieced together complete runs of Road & Track, Sports Cars > Illustrated, Sports Car Graphic and AQ among others to relive this era. I can > practically recite word for word the Healey BN 6 test in SCI with its > wonderful three quarter rear view of the sleek new two-seater. And the > "Healey's Six-Slug Slugger" article in SCG: all were truly inspirational for a > twenty-something kid with a rusty BN 6 wreck in the driveway. > > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nelson_wd at msn.com From mslechta at chartermi.net Wed Aug 17 14:38:07 2011 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:38:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [PHISH] About my account - scam or not? In-Reply-To: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net> References: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net> Message-ID: <5BB7D3308BFB4E9DA930B832543C49E7@MikesLaptop> Hi Per, I got the same email this morning. I called PayPal about it & they asked me to forward it to them at spoof at paypal.com, which I did. Within an hour I got a reply that it was "phishing". PayPal explained that it is helpful to them when you send them a copy of what you suspect to be "phishing" so they can use it to try to track down and stop the sender. I suggest you do that too. Cheers, Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Per Schoerner To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 3:08 PM Subject: [PHISH][Healeys] About my account - scam or not? Hi Got the attached mail from paypal at autox.team.net. Does anyone know what this is? It doesn't really make sense to me. There is a reference to site www.sakwiki.com which is all about Swiss army knifes. What that has to do with the mailing list and my Paypal account is beyond me. Per in Sweden -------- Ursprungligt meddelande -------- Dmne: About Your Account Datum: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:35:47 +0200 (added by postmaster at mm-proxy1.telenor.se) Fren: PayPal Security Center Till: healeyguy at bredband.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Message-Id: <20110817133555.E66AB187A1F at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 07:35:55 -0600 (MDT)

Hi Dear..
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 Account ID PP1173G458 ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3839 - Release Date: 08/16/11 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Wed Aug 17 14:46:00 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 13:46:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? In-Reply-To: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net> References: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net> Message-ID: <76DF515B7FEE428C837C20876D31ECB9@LeonardPCPC> Per: It's a phishing e-mail. Most every major business has an address to which you can forward these fraudulent messages. Pay Pal has one. It is spoof at paypal.com. Go to their web site and find the Security and Protection link at the top of the page. The instructions will tell you what to forward and how to forward it. As Mike states, they do appreciate the help in their efforts to stop this problem. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Per Schoerner" To: ; "Mark J Bradakis" Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 1:08 PM Subject: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? > Hi > Got the attached mail from paypal at autox.team.net. Does anyone know what > this is? It doesn't really make sense to me. There is a reference to site > www.sakwiki.com which is all about Swiss army knifes. What that has to do > with the mailing list and my Paypal account is beyond me. > > > Per in Sweden > > -------- Ursprungligt meddelande -------- > Dmne: About Your Account > Datum: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:35:47 +0200 (added by > postmaster at mm-proxy1.telenor.se) > Fren: PayPal Security Center > Till: healeyguy at bredband.net > > MIME-Version: 1.0 > > Content-Type: text/html > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > Message-Id: <20110817133555.E66AB187A1F at autox.team.net> > Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 07:35:55 -0600 (MDT) > > > >

face="Arial">Hi > > Dear..
For security causes

> >

face="Arial">You > > have to update account details

> >

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> >

> > href="http://www.sakwiki.com/paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscrcmd=_login-run/webscrcmd=_account-run=524685741142/updates-paypal/confirm-paypal/index.htm?websec=IVMdxQswSpNq4HP1nLL9RiMbtp30B1rPwCszJcltyJED7gPKkxRVjQ1eKzAs">Update > > My Account

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> > > > Account ID > PP1173G458 > > > > > > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3839 - Release Date: 08/16/11 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net From rbender9 at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 17 15:12:34 2011 From: rbender9 at sbcglobal.net (Robert Bender) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 14:12:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Charleston, SC Message-ID: <1313615554.71758.YahooMailClassic@web83814.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hello to any US East Coast Healey listers, I'm on a project that will have me in Charleston, SC for the next two weeks and then shuttling in and out through the end of the year. I may have some downtime, but I know very little about the area. Does anyone know about Healey or other cool (I'm not a NASCAR fan) car stuff going on around there? Bob From insptwo at msn.com Wed Aug 17 15:43:28 2011 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:43:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? In-Reply-To: <76DF515B7FEE428C837C20876D31ECB9@LeonardPCPC> References: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net>, <76DF515B7FEE428C837C20876D31ECB9@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: When you open the message you will see to your right, close to the top, a small triangle or arrow in two seperate places. From there you can open the senders actual address and registered name. After you do this, you can forward the message with their address to whom ever you want to notify and register a complaint to. I get constant "Notifaction of email shut down from msn unless you update your records". It is amazing how many different individuals are tryiing to pull this scam! Bill BJ7 > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 13:46:00 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? > > Per: It's a phishing e-mail. Most every major business has an address to > which you can forward these fraudulent messages. Pay Pal has one. It is > spoof at paypal.com. Go to their web site and find the Security and Protection > link at the top of the page. The instructions will tell you what to forward > and how to forward it. As Mike states, they do appreciate the help in their > efforts to stop this problem. > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Aug 17 17:24:43 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 18:24:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Charleston, SC In-Reply-To: <1313615554.71758.YahooMailClassic@web83814.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1313615554.71758.YahooMailClassic@web83814.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <85DEEDF6091D40189F8D3B06068EAAB8@GregPC> Don't know about Healey or sports car stuff, but if you like history a walk or tour of the historic district is a must. Lots of stuff (houses,cemetaries, churches, etc) dating back to the 1600s in an area where they haven't allowed McDonalds, Qwiki Marts etc. in at all if I recall correctly. Greg Lemon From ynotink at msn.com Wed Aug 17 17:55:53 2011 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 23:55:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? In-Reply-To: References: <4E4C1FAC.4040507@bredband.net>, , <76DF515B7FEE428C837C20876D31ECB9@LeonardPCPC>, Message-ID: Ditto the msn comment. Stupid as it seems they must catch a few phish. Bill Lawrence > From: insptwo at msn.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:43:28 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? > > When you open the message you will see to your right, close to the top, a > small triangle or arrow in two seperate places. From there you can open the > senders actual address and registered name. After you do this, you can forward > the message with their address to whom ever you want to notify and register a > complaint to. I get constant "Notifaction of email shut down from msn unless > you update your records". It is amazing how many different individuals are > tryiing to pull this scam! > Bill > BJ7 > > > > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 13:46:00 -0700 > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? > > > > Per: It's a phishing e-mail. Most every major business has an address to > > which you can forward these fraudulent messages. Pay Pal has one. It is > > spoof at paypal.com. Go to their web site and find the Security and Protection > > link at the top of the page. The instructions will tell you what to forward > > and how to forward it. As Mike states, they do appreciate the help in their > > efforts to stop this problem. > > > > (The Other) Len > > Vacaville, CA, USA > > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From medlabinc at msn.com Wed Aug 17 18:05:53 2011 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:05:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: About my account - scam or not? Message-ID: Same here - msn account alert messages I mean. Many over the past 3-4 months wanting to 'verify' birthdate, user name, password and all that in order to 'continue' account. I don't think so. But I haven't noticed the arrow you mention. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: insptwo at msn.com To: healey help Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 2:43 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? When you open the message you will see to your right, close to the top, a small triangle or arrow in two seperate places. From there you can open the senders actual address and registered name. After you do this, you can forward the message with their address to whom ever you want to notify and register a complaint to. I get constant "Notifaction of email shut down from msn unless you update your records". It is amazing how many different individuals are tryiing to pull this scam! Bill BJ7 > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 13:46:00 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? > > Per: It's a phishing e-mail. Most every major business has an address to > which you can forward these fraudulent messages. Pay Pal has one. It is > spoof at paypal.com. Go to their web site and find the Security and Protection > link at the top of the page. The instructions will tell you what to forward > and how to forward it. As Mike states, they do appreciate the help in their > efforts to stop this problem. > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From insptwo at msn.com Wed Aug 17 19:19:58 2011 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 21:19:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: About my account - scam or not? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you open the message, you will notice a small, very light triangle, at the right, just under the line that seperates the email from the various letter sizes, colors, etc.,. Hit that and it will show up! There is also another arrow next to the reply box in the upper right corner. That will also show you where the message source is. I am not sure that this is available on other email sources. Bill BJ7 > From: medlabinc at msn.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:05:53 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Fw: About my account - scam or not? > > Same here - msn account alert messages I mean. Many over the past 3-4 months > wanting to 'verify' birthdate, user name, password and all that in order to > 'continue' account. I don't think so. > > But I haven't noticed the arrow you mention. > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: insptwo at msn.com > To: healey help > Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 2:43 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? > > > When you open the message you will see to your right, close to the top, a > small triangle or arrow in two seperate places. From there you can open the > senders actual address and registered name. After you do this, you can > forward > the message with their address to whom ever you want to notify and register a > complaint to. I get constant "Notifaction of email shut down from msn unless > you update your records". It is amazing how many different individuals are > tryiing to pull this scam! > Bill > BJ7 > > > > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 13:46:00 -0700 > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] About my account - scam or not? > > > > Per: It's a phishing e-mail. Most every major business has an address to > > which you can forward these fraudulent messages. Pay Pal has one. It is > > spoof at paypal.com. Go to their web site and find the > Security and Protection > > link at the top of the page. The instructions will tell you what to forward > > and how to forward it. As Mike states, they do appreciate the help in their > > efforts to stop this problem. > > > > (The Other) Len > > Vacaville, CA, USA > > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/insptwo at msn.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Aug 17 22:04:10 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 00:04:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] John Nikas Update Message-ID: <5833.2578f9e2.3b7de93a@aol.com> David Nock and I just received this email from Dave Porter; Dave/Steve, All bets are off. He lost a rod bearing on the TX. OK border. Webll figure out how to drag the car back here. More when I know more. Best, dave _frogeye at porterscustom.com_ (mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com) Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles So it seems John will be delayed and not driving on to the stage of the Russo and Steele Auction in Monterey California tomorrow as anticipated. As Dave stated above, more information will be forth coming when we all know more. Steven Kingsbury From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 18 07:31:23 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 08:31:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] John Nikas Update In-Reply-To: <5833.2578f9e2.3b7de93a@aol.com> References: <5833.2578f9e2.3b7de93a@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E4D142B.8050509@justbrits.com> << He lost a rod bearing on the TX. OK >> Dave, have him just start adding STP !! I drove a Frogeye from a little less than 1/2 way to Road America once using the stuff. We [girl friend] figured we would be able to beg on to a trailer and just drive the trailered car home. Could NOT come up with anything/anybody ! ! So fire her up and started out on about a 250 mile drive. We stopped every 25 - 50 miles and let thing cool down. Used a bunch of STP, little bit of 50%/50% H20/anti-freeze [what we had handy] and had a bunch of short naps !! But we did make it ! ! ! Now I will admit, oil pan drained for well over one (1) HOUR !! Ed From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu Aug 18 08:43:55 2011 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 10:43:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? Message-ID: I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. Any ideas about what's going on? thanks, Tom From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 18 09:44:51 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 15:44:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Mechanical or electronic tach? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom" To: "Healey Mail List" Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 7:43:55 AM Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. Any ideas about what's going on? thanks, Tom From dcongleton at embarqmail.com Thu Aug 18 10:48:31 2011 From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 12:48:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? References: Message-ID: <4B77B108BB3F4EA2866DD076A2690B6A@your4dacd0ea75> Overdrive in use on both occasions ? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom" To: "Healey Mail List" Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 10:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? > I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool > (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at > night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. > > Any ideas about what's going on? > > thanks, > > Tom From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu Aug 18 10:56:06 2011 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 12:56:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: It's in my BJ8, so it's electrical. Yup, overdrive on at 65mph. - Tom On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 11:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Mechanical or electronic tach? > > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Tom" > *To: *"Healey Mail List" > *Sent: *Thursday, August 18, 2011 7:43:55 AM > *Subject: *[Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? > > > I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool > (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at > night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. > > Any ideas about what's going on? > > thanks, > > Tom From dcongleton at embarqmail.com Thu Aug 18 11:15:02 2011 From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:15:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? References: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Are lights used in one direction and not the other? ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom To: Bob Spidell ; dcongleton at embarqmail.com Cc: Healey Mail List Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 12:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? It's in my BJ8, so it's electrical. Yup, overdrive on at 65mph. - Tom On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 11:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Mechanical or electronic tach? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom" To: "Healey Mail List" Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 7:43:55 AM Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. Any ideas about what's going on? thanks, Tom From bengaard at 850r.dk Thu Aug 18 11:24:34 2011 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 19:24:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2067C9DB7D904692B9B5FC73AEB7182B@NIB> Dont know if its a common problem, but I have tested three different tachs in my BJ8 and they all have the problem with showing more and more the longer you drive. >From the beginning they show around correct rpm, after a while to much. Always thought it had something to do with the electronics in the tach being cold or hot. Niels -----Oprindelig meddelelse----- From: Tom Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 4:43 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. Any ideas about what's going on? thanks, Tom _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bengaard at 850r.dk From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Aug 18 11:31:21 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:31:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: References: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: It could be due to the Coriolus effect. Best--Michael Oritt ----------------------------- On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 1:15 PM, Dallas Congleton wrote: > Are lights used in one direction and not the other? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Tom > To: Bob Spidell ; dcongleton at embarqmail.com > Cc: Healey Mail List > Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 12:56 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? > > > It's in my BJ8, so it's electrical. > > > Yup, overdrive on at 65mph. > > > - Tom > > > On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 11:44 AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > Mechanical or electronic tach? > > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > From: "Tom" > To: "Healey Mail List" > Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 7:43:55 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? > > > I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool > (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at > night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. > > Any ideas about what's going on? > > thanks, > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 18 11:38:05 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 17:38:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <987595056.272273.1313689085428.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> My BJ8's tach did the same (though not quite as extreme). After I calibrated it it has been spot on at all temps and speeds. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- It's in my BJ8, so it's electrical. Yup, overdrive on at 65mph. - Tom On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 11:44 AM, Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net > wrote: Mechanical or electronic tach? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. Any ideas about what's going on? thanks, Tom From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Aug 18 11:37:31 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 10:37:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] throttle cable kit update Message-ID: Hello, i have heard from both BCS and Cape International with information about installing their kit. Cape provided great photos, which really help me make sense of the written instructions that BCS sent me. I have asked for permission to use them in an article I am writing on the installation process. I want to juxtapose them with what I come up with in installing the kit. -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Aug 18 11:47:19 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:47:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: References: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <003f01cc5dce$e09eee60$a1dccb20$@rr.com> BJ8 tachs have a tendency for variable response with temperature when they still have their old electronics. A rebuild should fix it, since it did for me. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA > Yup, overdrive on at 65mph. > > > - Tom > > > On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 11:44 AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > Mechanical or electronic tach? > > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Thu Aug 18 14:15:04 2011 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 16:15:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: <003f01cc5dce$e09eee60$a1dccb20$@rr.com> References: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003f01cc5dce$e09eee60$a1dccb20$@rr.com> Message-ID: Steve, rebuild to old spec with new parts, or with modern technology? Bob Johnson BJ8 On Aug 18, 2011 1:48 PM, "BJ8 Healeys" wrote: > BJ8 tachs have a tendency for variable response with temperature when they > still have their old electronics. A rebuild should fix it, since it did for > me. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > >> Yup, overdrive on at 65mph. >> >> >> - Tom >> >> >> On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 11:44 AM, Bob Spidell >> wrote: >> >> Mechanical or electronic tach? >> >> >> Bob >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8 at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Thu Aug 18 16:33:10 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 18:33:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: <2067C9DB7D904692B9B5FC73AEB7182B@NIB> References: <2067C9DB7D904692B9B5FC73AEB7182B@NIB> Message-ID: <8CE2C0DF187DEBC-F70-26BFB@webmail-d127.sysops.aol.com> My BJ8 tach responds the opposite. On a long drive home from Conclave I lost 250RPM from the morning to late afternoon at a constant 70 MPH, in 4th overdrive, with the lights off, as measured by GPS, in Kansas. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Niels Bengaard To: Healey Mail List Sent: Thu, Aug 18, 2011 12:25 pm Subject: Re: [Heal] Tach heat sensitive? Dont know if its a common problem, but I have tested three different tachs n my BJ8 and they all have the problem with showing more and more the onger you drive. rom the beginning they show around correct rpm, after a while to much. lways thought it had something to do with the electronics in the tach being old or hot. Niels -----Oprindelig meddelelse----- rom: Tom ent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 4:43 PM o: Healey Mail List ubject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool 50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at ight when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. Any ideas about what's going on? thanks, Tom ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bengaard at 850r.dk ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 18 17:17:15 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 07:17:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Is it a BJ8 tach or an earlier mechanical one? On 8/18/11, Tom wrote: > I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning when it's cool > (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 MPH. When I return home at > night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 RPM at 65 MPH. > > Any ideas about what's going on? > > thanks, > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From gmandas at yahoo.com Thu Aug 18 17:32:21 2011 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 16:32:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1313710341.84039.YahooMailClassic@web65917.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just a swag here, but my mechanic says my tach is running high because the wire the tach reads is old and therefore has higher resistance (?EE's?) He says he typically runs a new wire, therefore with lower resistance, o fix the problem, barring a complete harness replacement. That being said, and the fact a warmer wire has higher resistance, sounds like it should run higher at warmer temps. Sound Right? Greg 65BJ8 > > On 8/18/11, Tom > wrote: > > I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning > when it's cool > > (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 > MPH. When I return home at > > night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 > RPM at 65 MPH. > > > > Any ideas about what's going on? > > > > thanks, > > > > Tom > > _______________________________________________ From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Aug 18 18:55:42 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 17:55:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Mainely Healey Message-ID: <1313715342.35391.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> You were driving north on Rte 1, about 10 miles south of Rockland, ME. A lithe 100, white over lobelia with driving lights and no bumpers. I was in the butch silver Chrysler 300C SRT8, heading south. I wanted to flash my lights, but hesitated. Thought you might not understand, or I was too forward. Maybe we could meet over a cappuccino. share common interests, who knows? Contact me at hotforhealeys.com Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 18 21:07:13 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 11:07:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: <1313710341.84039.YahooMailClassic@web65917.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1313710341.84039.YahooMailClassic@web65917.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Tom - I'm with greg on this one. That little white wire has the most current and variation in current going through it than any other wire in the car. That creates a situation where that wire will increase resistance with so much use, and it sort of snowballs from there. I suspect that if you replace that wire, or at least replace the terminals with good soldered connections to the terminals, you will fix this problem. Alan On 8/19/11, Greg Mandas wrote: > > Just a swag here, but my mechanic says my tach is running high because the > wire the tach reads is old and therefore has higher resistance (?EE's?) He > says he typically runs a new wire, therefore with lower resistance, o fix > the problem, barring a complete harness replacement. > > That being said, and the fact a warmer wire has higher resistance, sounds > like it should run higher at warmer temps. > > Sound Right? > > Greg > 65BJ8 > >> >> On 8/18/11, Tom >> wrote: >> > I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning >> when it's cool >> > (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 >> MPH. When I return home at >> > night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 >> RPM at 65 MPH. >> > >> > Any ideas about what's going on? >> > >> > thanks, >> > >> > Tom >> > _______________________________________________ > > -- Sent from my mobile device From akronzips at aol.com Thu Aug 18 22:26:20 2011 From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 00:26:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] The Tunderbowl comet streamliner(not Healey Message-ID: <8CE2C3F47EA5526-2314-2320A@webmail-d098.sysops.aol.com> Just for your interest in old and unusual cars. Go to this site: http://reservatory6.blogspot.com/search?q=thunder+bowl+comet Go to this stie and type in Thunderbowl comet in the search line. Neat old photo's from 30,40,50 and 60's Enjoy Howard 61 BT7 Tri-carb From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Aug 19 00:12:54 2011 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 07:12:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Alps Message-ID: <000e01cc5e37$09073020$1b159060$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Has anyone tried the "Route des Grandes Alpes"? Starts on Lake Geneva & goes south through the Alps via the high passes and thence to Menton on the Med near the Italian border. I may be doing it next year. See site, below. Looks interesting, though it helps if yr car is this side of the Atlantic? http://www.losapos.com/great_alpine_road Simon From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 19 01:05:47 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 09:05:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: References: <1313710341.84039.YahooMailClassic@web65917.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E4E0B4B.3060504@chello.nl> I am not so sure that the relative small temperature variations will change the resistance of the wire enough to show these variations in indicated rpm. What could change though is the battery voltage. When starting of, the battery voltage can be lowish (hence the indicators are not or slow flashing) and will gradually rise when driving any distance. I am not much into electronics but it is just an idea. Any thoughts??? Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 19 01:09:05 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 09:09:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Alps In-Reply-To: <000e01cc5e37$09073020$1b159060$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000e01cc5e37$09073020$1b159060$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <4E4E0C11.1090308@chello.nl> I have done several of the high passes in the French Alps in the past. They are just spectacular, however some of them are only open for a very short period and can be closed at the end of September. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 19 01:13:08 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 15:13:08 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: <4E4E0B4B.3060504@chello.nl> References: <1313710341.84039.YahooMailClassic@web65917.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <4E4E0B4B.3060504@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees - I can understand your gut feelings on this, but I've had so much surface resistance build up in this wire in the past, that the ignition on my BJ8 would actually stop working. This was with the aluminum wire they were using at the time. That wire has a great deal of current running through it. Alan 2011/8/19 Oudesluys > I am not so sure that the relative small temperature variations will change > the resistance of the wire enough to show these variations in indicated rpm. > What could change though is the battery voltage. When starting of, the > battery voltage can be lowish (hence the indicators are not or slow > flashing) and will gradually rise when driving any distance. > I am not much into electronics but it is just an idea. > Any thoughts??? > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 19 02:37:52 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:37:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: References: <1313710341.84039.YahooMailClassic@web65917.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <4E4E0B4B.3060504@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4E4E20E0.7040107@chello.nl> Alan, You are talking about an aluminium wire. Would that be the resistor wire in series with the coil acting as a ballast resistor? I hope the rest of the wiring is copper core! Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 19 04:35:29 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (mark lapierre) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 03:35:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] trial fit of carbs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1313750129.46438.YahooMailClassic@web180115.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Chase all threads and holes. Get insulation replaced on back of heat shield. Make sure water tap and anything else behind the carbs are in good working order and not leaking. Get cables, hydraulic lines,and stearing stuff, around and under the exhaust manifold, done before manifold is installed. I'm sure there are more, but my memory is fading. Mark --- On Wed, 8/17/11, I Erbs wrote: From: I Erbs Subject: [Healeys] trial fit of carbs To: "Ahealey help" Date: Wednesday, August 17, 2011, 12:09 AM Howdy. Got my manifolds bolted down. new drains for intake manifold installed. Before I bolt the carbs down, what else should I be looking to do before they get installed?What tasks are easier with them removed? TIA -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Fri Aug 19 06:01:13 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 07:01:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Alps In-Reply-To: <4e4dff17.e97a440a.3c33.ffffbf1aSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> References: <4e4dff17.e97a440a.3c33.ffffbf1aSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> Message-ID: hi simon, the scenery looks just like a normal Texas road trip. should be a spectacular Healey adventure. i'm certainly envious. hope you end up doing it. cheers, jerry On Fri, Aug 19, 2011 at 1:12 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Has anyone tried the "Route des Grandes Alpes"? Starts on Lake Geneva & > goes > south through the Alps via the high passes and thence to Menton on the Med > near the Italian border. I may be doing it next year. See site, below. > Looks > interesting, though it helps if yr car is this side of the Atlantic? > > > > > > http://www.losapos.com/great_alpine_road > > > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Fri Aug 19 07:42:54 2011 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 09:42:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Alps In-Reply-To: <000e01cc5e37$09073020$1b159060$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000e01cc5e37$09073020$1b159060$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <001001cc5e75$e6529c60$b2f7d520$@mindspring.com> My wife and I took that path going the other way (from Menton to Lake Geneva), in our Healey in 2001. We were touring Europe in our Healey over the summer in 2001 with a bunch of other Healey drivers (included Tom and Jan Felts). Most of the other drivers took Napoleons road (less high passes), but we had a great time doing the High Alps. Gorgeous trip,...just watch out for the crazy bicyclists. -skip- -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 2:13 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Alps Has anyone tried the "Route des Grandes Alpes"? Starts on Lake Geneva & goes south through the Alps via the high passes and thence to Menton on the Med near the Italian border. I may be doing it next year. See site, below. Looks interesting, though it helps if yr car is this side of the Atlantic? From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Aug 19 08:14:39 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:14:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Alps In-Reply-To: <001001cc5e75$e6529c60$b2f7d520$@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <20110819101439.P0KWE.102991.root@pamxwww06-z01> I think we did some of it, but not all. I remember the Healey straining up some of those passes:):) Beautiful ride in the Healey. Would love to do it again. tom ---- Skip Saunders wrote: ============= My wife and I took that path going the other way (from Menton to Lake Geneva), in our Healey in 2001. We were touring Europe in our Healey over the summer in 2001 with a bunch of other Healey drivers (included Tom and Jan Felts). Most of the other drivers took Napoleons road (less high passes), but we had a great time doing the High Alps. Gorgeous trip,...just watch out for the crazy bicyclists. -skip- -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 2:13 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Alps Has anyone tried the "Route des Grandes Alpes"? Starts on Lake Geneva & goes south through the Alps via the high passes and thence to Menton on the Med near the Italian border. I may be doing it next year. See site, below. Looks interesting, though it helps if yr car is this side of the Atlantic? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Aug 19 08:32:32 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 07:32:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] pedal shaft lever Message-ID: Well it seems that pedal shaft lever was removed by my buddy who was helping me with my car. , of course cannot locate it in my boxes. So. does anyone have a Moss # 15 021-697 N/A LEVER, pedal shaft? you may notice the n/a from them.... I need one ASAP. Please reply off list with availability. I will pay for expedited email. Thanks -- -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From ggilliam at usol.com Fri Aug 19 08:54:26 2011 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:54:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Tach_heat_sensitive=3F?= In-Reply-To: References: <1313710341.84039.YahooMailClassic@web65917.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <4E4E0B4B.3060504@chello.nl> Message-ID: <7581f270569825c0c052796f0b049523@usol.com> I would think it is more likely the temp coefficient of the tach components, with some possible corroded connections. Gordy On Fri, 19 Aug 2011 15:13:08 +0800, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Kees - > > I can understand your gut feelings on this, but I've had so much > surface > resistance build up in this wire in the past, that the ignition on my > BJ8 > would actually stop working. This was with the aluminum wire they > were > using at the time. That wire has a great deal of current running > through > it. > > Alan > > 2011/8/19 Oudesluys > >> I am not so sure that the relative small temperature variations will >> change >> the resistance of the wire enough to show these variations in >> indicated rpm. >> What could change though is the battery voltage. When starting of, >> the >> battery voltage can be lowish (hence the indicators are not or slow >> flashing) and will gradually rise when driving any distance. >> I am not much into electronics but it is just an idea. >> Any thoughts??? >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ggilliam at usol.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Aug 19 08:57:03 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:57:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: References: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003f01cc5dce$e09eee60$a1dccb20$@rr.com> Message-ID: <003301cc5e80$41a7c2c0$c4f74840$@rr.com> Bob, I should have said "repair" instead of rebuild. The needle sometimes read high and sometimes low at the same speed. I did not do the repair myself, so I don't know for sure; but I think the parts were replaced with similar ones and the tach was not modified to "modern electronics." I subsequently converted it for negative ground myself, and it appeared stock inside to me. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From: Bob Johnson [mailto:bjsbj8 at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 4:15 PM To: BJ8 Healeys Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? Steve, rebuild to old spec with new parts, or with modern technology? Bob Johnson BJ8 From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Aug 19 10:03:14 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 12:03:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Alps In-Reply-To: <20110819101439.P0KWE.102991.root@pamxwww06-z01> References: <001001cc5e75$e6529c60$b2f7d520$@mindspring.com> <20110819101439.P0KWE.102991.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: My wife and I did the "Rallye Des Alpes" in a borrowed 100-6 in 2003. It was great and the OD was a handy feature to have during ascents and descents. Best--Michael Oritt --------------------------- On Fri, Aug 19, 2011 at 10:14 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > I think we did some of it, but not all. I remember the Healey straining up > some of those passes:):) Beautiful ride in the Healey. Would love to do it > again. > > tom > ---- Skip Saunders wrote: > > ============= > My wife and I took that path going the other way (from Menton to Lake > Geneva), in our Healey in 2001. We were touring Europe in our Healey over > the summer in 2001 with a bunch of other Healey drivers (included Tom and > Jan Felts). Most of the other drivers took Napoleons road (less high > passes), but we had a great time doing the High Alps. > > Gorgeous trip,...just watch out for the crazy bicyclists. > > -skip- > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan > Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 2:13 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Alps > > Has anyone tried the "Route des Grandes Alpes"? Starts on Lake Geneva & > goes > south through the Alps via the high passes and thence to Menton on the Med > near the Italian border. I may be doing it next year. See site, below. > Looks > interesting, though it helps if yr car is this side of the Atlantic? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 19 14:55:34 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 13:55:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Weber vs SU's on a 3 carb Message-ID: <1313787334.8329.YahooMailNeo@web120529.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> 3000 3 carbs healey A friend of mine is thinking about upgrading his cilinder head to a dennis welch fast road, mid fast road camshaft but is unsure bout upgrading to bigger SU carbs or going to Webers. All opinions are welcomed... Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 19 15:29:54 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 23:29:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Weber vs SU's on a 3 carb In-Reply-To: <1313787334.8329.YahooMailNeo@web120529.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1313787334.8329.YahooMailNeo@web120529.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E4ED5D2.50607@chello.nl> If you get Weber DCOE type carbs get the DellOrto's DHLA. They are similar to Webers however are a further development and are superior to Webers. They are more stable, easier to tune and give a slightly more powerful engine. Once properly set up you will not have to look at them for years to come. A good book for sorting out what size carbs, chokes and jets you need is: HOW TO BUILD & POWER TUNE WEBER & DELLORTO DCOE & DHLA CARBURETTORS by Des Hamil, Voloce Publishing PLC, ISBN 1-9o1295-64-8 / UPC 36847-00164-3 You will probably be needing 40mm carbs with ca. 35mm chokes. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From raymead at comcast.net Fri Aug 19 15:37:41 2011 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 21:37:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healey maintenance manuals & factory parts manual, for sale In-Reply-To: <172457364.202525.1313788155638.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1354960409.203589.1313789861896.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi all, If interested, please contact me off-line: 1. Factory parts manual for BJ7 and BJ8,,,,,,,,,,, BIG manual! 2. Haynes soft cover 207pg "Owners Workshop Manual" for 100/6 & 3000, all 1956 thru 1968 3. Chilton's hard cover 126pg "Repair & Tune-up Guide: for all Healeys ray 4. Also have a soft cover copy of Newton's "Illustrated Austin-Healey Buyer's Guide", 136 pgs From ah3000me at gmail.com Fri Aug 19 16:41:04 2011 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 18:41:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: <003301cc5e80$41a7c2c0$c4f74840$@rr.com> References: <89872905.265925.1313682291731.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003f01cc5dce$e09eee60$a1dccb20$@rr.com> <003301cc5e80$41a7c2c0$c4f74840$@rr.com> Message-ID: Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions. I noticed this last year and thought it was just my imagination. Good to know that the tach is just slightly off with age and my mind is not. - Tom On Fri, Aug 19, 2011 at 10:57 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > Bob, I should have said "repair" instead of rebuild. The needle sometimes > read high and sometimes low at the same speed. I did not do the repair > myself, so I don't know for sure; but I think the parts were replaced with > similar ones and the tach was not modified to "modern electronics." > I subsequently converted it for negative ground myself, and it appeared > stock inside to me. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > From: Bob Johnson [mailto:bjsbj8 at gmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 4:15 PM > To: BJ8 Healeys > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? > > Steve, rebuild to old spec with new parts, or with modern technology? > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Aug 19 16:58:36 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 15:58:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] practical guide to maintance Message-ID: When I looked up Austin Healey a practical guide to maintenance, it was published in 1961. Would it still be useful for later Healeys? Rich Kahn From tonup at tellink.net Fri Aug 19 17:44:37 2011 From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 19:44:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New member, 100-6 con rod question Message-ID: <14DF9A6BEB5F460EA67F03A01DBA28CA@FrankPC> Hi All, I had been a subscriber of an A-H list some time ago, I think it was this one. I'm finally getting around to the restoration of my BN6. I hope to reassemble the engine in the next week or so. Block has been decked and bored +0.020" with new pistons, crank has been taken to -0.010 and I have new bearings. This engine does not seem to have ever been disassembled. When I went to remove the rods/pistons I found that some of the connecting rod studs turned with the nuts on about three rods. I managed to get the nuts off without much trouble using a blunt screw driver between the flat side of the stud head and the rod cap to hold the stud from turning. Obviously, I can't use the same crude technique when reassembling. How should I lock the studs in place? I have a couple ideas but would like to hear from those on the list. Thanks, Frank From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 19 17:48:10 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 18:48:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] How to properly engage and disangage overdrive Message-ID: Mynoverdrive is finally working..... How it should be used ? Thanks Jose Sent from my iPad From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Aug 19 18:12:43 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 17:12:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] How to properly engage and disangage overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E4EFBFB.2020809@comcast.net> Everyone has their own way. Here's mine: - when accelerating/cruising, just throw the switch (on); you'll either get more speed or less RPMs depending on throttle - when decelerating, coast or use brakes, when you get below 2K RPM, push the clutch pedal in a couple inches, tap the throttle, throw the switch off then release the clutch. Done right, there is absolutely no shock to the drivetrain - if you're stuck behind a slow Ferrari when in O/D at part throttle throw the switch (off), then when you go WOT you'll get a downshift to a 'passing gear' (aka 'kickdown') No problems so far (but I've only got 170,000 miles on my O/D). Bob On 8/19/2011 4:48 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote: > Mynoverdrive is finally working..... > > How it should be used ? > > > Thanks > > Jose > > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 19 18:48:24 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 20:48:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New member, 100-6 con rod question In-Reply-To: <14DF9A6BEB5F460EA67F03A01DBA28CA@FrankPC> References: <14DF9A6BEB5F460EA67F03A01DBA28CA@FrankPC> Message-ID: <000101cc5ed2$de271c70$9a755550$@net> Frank, There is supposed to be a small pin inserted into a notch on one side as part of the bolt head. When fully inserted into this notch, it acts like a key to prevent any rotating movement of the rod bolt. Hard to describe but very obvious when seen. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Sent: 2011-08-19 7:45 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New member, 100-6 con rod question Hi All, I had been a subscriber of an A-H list some time ago, I think it was this one. I'm finally getting around to the restoration of my BN6. I hope to reassemble the engine in the next week or so. Block has been decked and bored +0.020" with new pistons, crank has been taken to -0.010 and I have new bearings. This engine does not seem to have ever been disassembled. When I went to remove the rods/pistons I found that some of the connecting rod studs turned with the nuts on about three rods. I managed to get the nuts off without much trouble using a blunt screw driver between the flat side of the stud head and the rod cap to hold the stud from turning. Obviously, I can't use the same crude technique when reassembling. How should I lock the studs in place? I have a couple ideas but would like to hear from those on the list. Thanks, Frank _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From jdshealey64 at gmail.com Fri Aug 19 20:51:26 2011 From: jdshealey64 at gmail.com (JDS) Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 19:51:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tach heat sensitive? In-Reply-To: References: <1313710341.84039.YahooMailClassic@web65917.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7A18E060-D81D-4422-9453-C1875C8AE14D@gmail.com> Had the same problem years ago and modified capacitor of tach as shown here and solved problem. http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Calibrate%20Tach%201.pdf Jerry > Tom - > > I'm with greg on this one. That little white wire has the most > current and variation in current going through it than any other wire > in the car. That creates a situation where that wire will increase > resistance with so much use, and it sort of snowballs from there. I > suspect that if you replace that wire, or at least replace the > terminals with good soldered connections to the terminals, you will > fix this problem. > > Alan > > On 8/19/11, Greg Mandas wrote: >> >> Just a swag here, but my mechanic says my tach is running high because the >> wire the tach reads is old and therefore has higher resistance (?EE's?) He >> says he typically runs a new wire, therefore with lower resistance, o fix >> the problem, barring a complete harness replacement. >> >> That being said, and the fact a warmer wire has higher resistance, sounds >> like it should run higher at warmer temps. >> >> Sound Right? >> >> Greg >> 65BJ8 >> >>> >>> On 8/18/11, Tom >>> wrote: >>>> I've noticed that when I drive to work in the morning >>> when it's cool >>>> (50-60F), my tach shows about 2500 RPM at 65 >>> MPH. When I return home at >>>> night when it's warm (80+ F), my tach shows about 3000 >>> RPM at 65 MPH. >>>> >>>> Any ideas about what's going on? >>>> >>>> thanks, >>>> >>>> Tom >>>> _______________________________________________ >> >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jdshealey64 at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 20 07:47:28 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 06:47:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey (but LBC) Message-ID: <4E4FBAF0.1000502@comcast.net> http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/08/19/MTBL1KPKH3.DTL ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 20 12:41:11 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 20:41:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] indicators Message-ID: <4E4FFFC7.9060602@chello.nl> A few days ago there was someone stating that he was going to change his indicator relay for one that clicks louder. I solved the problem of forgetting to cancel the indicators by fitting a small 12V 80dBA buzzer parallel to the warning lights. I have one for right and one for left but if you have a single warning light it will work as well. These can be had from ebay, electronic shops or radio shacks. I paid GBP0,99, about US$2, each for them. The buzz is annoying and very audible also at high speed. You cannot ignore it. Fitted in minutes and you can keep your original relay. Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From miq at bigllama.com Sat Aug 20 13:07:35 2011 From: miq at bigllama.com (Miq Millman) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 12:07:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for some valuation, sprite project for sale Message-ID: It's been a long time since I've posted anything to the Healey list, but I've been a member for over 20 years, and still read the digest almost daily. As I recall back, I don't think I actually posted my discussions about Frankensprite on the Healey list, likely it was Britcars or Spridgets I've had this project car for a long time, moved it four times, occaisionally collected parts for it, made plans, changed plans, and lately--as I've been tackling projects on my Bugeye (5-speed, redoing suspension, rebelling rear hubs, brakes), decided that I don't have a want or need for what Frankensprite might become. Actually, I think I have finally attained that balance point of wisdom, (in)sanity, introspective, and imagination that driving a car that weighs 1100 pounds, and has 180 hp** with the telepathically twitchy steering of a Sprite is a bad thing. **At one point, I had visions of building a rotary powered sprite, and had collected all the Mazda fiddly bits--rear axle, transmission, engine, etc but I've sold off most of those parts to local racers to keep their now venerable RX-2,3 or 7 going. As a fall back plan, at one point I picked up, and salvaged a '65 Midget and pulled a lot of bits off it before trading it away. The idea there was if sanity ever bit back hard, or the rotary effort was too steep a slope I could back out easy and go a more sedate BMC powered effort. Thus, I have the complete 1098 setup (with supposedly under 3000 miles on a rebuild from the previous owner--who knows when that was, easily a dozen years that I've owned the power train). Included are everything in the photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/66387302 at N05/sets/ which is most of the spare bits and pieces I've collected over the past 24 years, including two running engines, some suspension and braking options (I was going to put GT6 front brakes and RX7 GSL-SE rear brakes (along with a narrowed RX7 rear axle w/ LSD)). Actually, the RX7 rear end is available but it no longer has the LSD. The bonnet was bought from The Healey Store back in 1990, but looks to be the same one sold currently by the Winner's Circle. The rear "spats" style flares were custom made, and intended to allow for running with slicks with the wheel wells covered. As evidenced by the photos, no sheet metal was cut on the exterior of the car. I also had some spare front fender bits that could be used to extend the footwells--the idea here was when you put the front hinge on the bonnet, you wouldn't whack the back of your head on the rear side of the wheel well standing up over the engine. Something I've experienced but never actually seen a solution for in practice. I have the clean California title, for the 1962 Mk 2 Sprite, and a small pile of receipts and paperwork. I'm open to suggestions for the value of this garage marvel. I know the cage alone was over $800, the fiberglass bonnet was $500 when I bought it in 1990, etc. In all I probably have over $3500 invested in this, excluding all the RX7 stuff. Frankensprite is currently located in the south-western suburbs of Portland Oregon, I have to move it again within the month, and I will do so if needed, but hopefully I can find a new home/owner for this once and future project. -- __ Miq Millman miq at bigllama.com Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Aug 20 15:03:58 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 14:03:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey (but LBC) In-Reply-To: <4E4FBAF0.1000502@comcast.net> References: <4E4FBAF0.1000502@comcast.net> Message-ID: great article. Love the fact that he has a full size photo of his young self in 120. BTW. Please include some text as some kind of proof that this is not a link to a virus site. just a link scares me. I had to look at it first on my LINUX computer to be safe. cheers On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 6:47 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/**article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/08/19/** > MTBL1KPKH3.DTL > > *********************************************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > *********************************************************************** > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Aug 20 15:09:59 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 15:09:59 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] '53 healey crisscross the USA Message-ID: ..what an odyssey. Heard from Dave Nock that the car is still running and will be driven on stage at 7pm PT at Russo and Steele auction. I think its televised.. go to http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?sk=wall dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Aug 20 16:00:17 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 18:00:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] indicators In-Reply-To: <4E4FFFC7.9060602@chello.nl> References: <4E4FFFC7.9060602@chello.nl> Message-ID: <00b401cc5f84$8be0d070$a3a27150$@rr.com> I put an audible turn signal warning on my BJ8. I've sent John Sims the technical info for his site (http://www.healey6.com). I was going to use chimes instead of a buzzer because the chime tone is less annoying, although still audible at speed; but I ended up using a chime for the left and a buzzer for the right (long story). Now, I can tell which one is on without looking at the light! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 2:41 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] indicators A few days ago there was someone stating that he was going to change his indicator relay for one that clicks louder. I solved the problem of forgetting to cancel the indicators by fitting a small 12V 80dBA buzzer parallel to the warning lights. I have one for right and one for left but if you have a single warning light it will work as well. These can be had from ebay, electronic shops or radio shacks. I paid GBP0,99, about US$2, each for them. The buzz is annoying and very audible also at high speed. You cannot ignore it. Fitted in minutes and you can keep your original relay. Kees Oudesluijs From healey100m at gmail.com Sat Aug 20 16:12:37 2011 From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 18:12:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] '53 healey crisscross the USA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2BF3A928-6306-4295-971B-661D5EC528DE@gmail.com> Dave, it looks like from the postings, you had a lot to do with getting him there. Thanks for making the huge effort and going all those extra miles!! And Thanks to all the others who helped along the way. Randy On Aug 20, 2011, at 5:09 PM, "David Porter" wrote: > ..what an odyssey. Heard from Dave Nock that the car is still running and > will be driven on stage at 7pm PT at Russo and Steele auction. I think its > televised.. go to > > http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?sk=wall > > dave > > > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice > pictures-fun facts-my world > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Aug 20 16:29:56 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 16:29:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] '53 healey crisscross the USA In-Reply-To: <2BF3A928-6306-4295-971B-661D5EC528DE@gmail.com> References: <2BF3A928-6306-4295-971B-661D5EC528DE@gmail.com> Message-ID: <66634E41C7804EA0875D23474A0251D2@oscar> It's as much a testament to the toughness of the old 4 bangers.... I scraped off the melted bearing, polished the crank with some crocus cloth and sent him down the road.. likely caused by a cracked delivery pipe on the oil pump.. dp frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: Randy Hicks [mailto:healey100m at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 4:13 PM To: David Porter Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] '53 healey crisscross the USA Dave, it looks like from the postings, you had a lot to do with getting him there. Thanks for making the huge effort and going all those extra miles!! And Thanks to all the others who helped along the way. Randy On Aug 20, 2011, at 5:09 PM, "David Porter" wrote: > ..what an odyssey. Heard from Dave Nock that the car is still running and > will be driven on stage at 7pm PT at Russo and Steele auction. I think its > televised.. go to > > http://www.facebook.com/pages/Drive-Away-Cancer/144136362339359?sk=wall > > dave > > > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice > pictures-fun facts-my world > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Aug 20 18:02:21 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 17:02:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cable kit update Message-ID: Found the missing pedal shaft lever. Traded a bunch of emails with Cape International. They photos too. After 4 days of playing time zone tag we figured out I had an early kit and there photos are incorrect ! So I'm still unclear on where the V bracket mounts. Hopefully I can exchange it for the newer version or get clear instructions as to where it goes.... Stay tuned From medlabinc at msn.com Sat Aug 20 18:11:06 2011 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 17:11:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: indicators Message-ID: About a year ago I installed a signal light beeper as per Steve Byer and his drawings. I love it and use it all the time. I have not recd the international hand signal for 'you're signal lights are on" once since installing the beeper. I looked for a beeper with a click sound but nothing doing where I looked. And anyway I'm happy with it as is. Thank you Steve. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: BJ8 Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 3:00 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] indicators I put an audible turn signal warning on my BJ8. I've sent John Sims the technical info for his site (http://www.healey6.com). I was going to use chimes instead of a buzzer because the chime tone is less annoying, although still audible at speed; but I ended up using a chime for the left and a buzzer for the right (long story). Now, I can tell which one is on without looking at the light! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 2:41 PM To: > Subject: [Healeys] indicators A few days ago there was someone stating that he was going to change his indicator relay for one that clicks louder. I solved the problem of forgetting to cancel the indicators by fitting a small 12V 80dBA buzzer parallel to the warning lights. I have one for right and one for left but if you have a single warning light it will work as well. These can be had from ebay, electronic shops or radio shacks. I paid GBP0,99, about US$2, each for them. The buzz is annoying and very audible also at high speed. You cannot ignore it. Fitted in minutes and you can keep your original relay. Kees Oudesluijs From shop at justbrits.com Sat Aug 20 19:14:12 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 20:14:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] '53 healey crisscross the USA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E505BE4.8000209@justbrits.com> << ...still running and will be driven on stage at 7pm PT at Russo and Steele auction. >> Anybody got a TV or other/any FEED ???? From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Aug 20 19:55:19 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 19:55:19 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] '53 healey crisscross the USA In-Reply-To: <4E505BE4.8000209@justbrits.com> References: <4E505BE4.8000209@justbrits.com> Message-ID: http://live.russoandsteele.com/index.php -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 7:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] '53 healey crisscross the USA << ...still running and will be driven on stage at 7pm PT at Russo and Steele auction. >> Anybody got a TV or other/any FEED ???? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 20 20:03:06 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 19:03:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad Message-ID: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage (look at photo# 13): http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item43a92f4d0c -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 20 20:04:12 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 19:04:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Review ... Message-ID: <4E50679C.20209@comcast.net> ... haven't seen this one before: http://www.sportscars.tv/Newfiles/healey3000.html -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From britcrs at gmail.com Sat Aug 20 20:48:26 2011 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 19:48:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad In-Reply-To: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> References: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> Message-ID: It's missing the body to bumper apron. On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 7:03 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage > (look at photo# 13): > > http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-**Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_** > Cars_Trucks&hash=**item43a92f4d0c > > > -- > *********************************************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > *********************************************************************** > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.**com From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat Aug 20 21:58:17 2011 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 13:58:17 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad In-Reply-To: References: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> Message-ID: <39A5954465384E7BAC15052207F954F1@Notebook> Front left corner looks pushed in/under to me -----Original Message----- From: Marvin James Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 12:48 PM To: Bob Spidell ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspicious ad It's missing the body to bumper apron. On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 7:03 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage > (look at photo# 13): > > http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-**Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_** > Cars_Trucks&hash=**item43a92f4d0c > > > -- > *********************************************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > *********************************************************************** From rwil at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 20 22:05:59 2011 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 21:05:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad In-Reply-To: <39A5954465384E7BAC15052207F954F1@Notebook> References: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> <39A5954465384E7BAC15052207F954F1@Notebook> Message-ID: The metal around the front of the left wheel well looks bowed outward, which would go along with the front left corner being pushed in or under. -Roland On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 13:58:17 +1000, Peter wrote: ::Front left corner looks pushed in/under to me :: ::-----Original Message----- ::From: Marvin James ::Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 12:48 PM ::To: Bob Spidell ; Healey List ::Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspicious ad :: ::It's missing the body to bumper apron. :: ::On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 7:03 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: :: ::> Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage ::> (look at photo# 13): ::> ::> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-**Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_** From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sat Aug 20 22:25:46 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 21:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad In-Reply-To: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> References: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> Message-ID: I think it is all optical illusion. Comparing pictures 1, 6, 13, and 14, the view from the left side of the car makes the right fender look curved in. The problem is the missing front apron panel. We are not used to seeing the ground, the bumper brackets and the bottom of the fender/shroud on a Healey when this panel is installed. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "healeylist" Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 7:03 PM Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad > Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage > (look at photo# 13): > > http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item43a92f4d0c > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 20 22:38:32 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 21:38:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad In-Reply-To: References: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> <39A5954465384E7BAC15052207F954F1@Notebook> Message-ID: <4E508BC8.7000007@comcast.net> Also, the reflection in the paint behind the headlight doesn't look like a smooth curve to me. I looked at my BJ8 and can see that the front-end might look pushed-in a bit without the splash apron, but the kink in the wheel opening and the distorted reflection in the shiny paint is fairly conclusive to me. Check out photo# 4--pretty much settles it. I didn't see this mentioned in the ad; I for one would be a bit upset if I paid $50K for a BJ8 sight unseen that had oh, say $10K of front-end damage. Bob On 8/20/2011 9:05 PM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > The metal around the front of the left wheel well looks bowed outward, > which would go along with the front left corner being pushed in or > under. > > -Roland > > On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 13:58:17 +1000, Peter wrote: > > ::Front left corner looks pushed in/under to me > :: > ::-----Original Message----- > ::From: Marvin James > ::Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 12:48 PM > ::To: Bob Spidell ; Healey List > ::Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspicious ad > :: > ::It's missing the body to bumper apron. > :: > ::On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 7:03 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > :: > ::> Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage > ::> (look at photo# 13): > ::> > ::> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-**Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_** > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 21 01:26:13 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 09:26:13 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] indicators In-Reply-To: <00b401cc5f84$8be0d070$a3a27150$@rr.com> References: <4E4FFFC7.9060602@chello.nl> <00b401cc5f84$8be0d070$a3a27150$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4E50B315.5050001@chello.nl> I used buzzers with a different frequency for left and right to distinguish the direction. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From ah3000me at gmail.com Sun Aug 21 07:47:10 2011 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 09:47:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad In-Reply-To: References: <4E50675A.6080902@comcast.net> Message-ID: I've seen a car or two at shows without the apron. I think they look even better without the apron. - Tom On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 10:48 PM, Marvin James wrote: > It's missing the body to bumper apron. > > On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 7:03 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage > > (look at photo# 13): > > > > http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-**Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_** > > Cars_Trucks&hash=**item43a92f4d0c< > http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item43a92f4d0c > > > > > > > > -- > > *********************************************************************** > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > > > *********************************************************************** > > ______________________________**_________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html< > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > > options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.**com< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From bluehealey at gmail.com Sun Aug 21 10:04:53 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 17:04:53 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 Air doors Message-ID: Team. I'm not sure what the proper name for these is, but they are the little flaps that close off the heater outlets in the footwell. Currently on Ebay, Item 110730944009, is a pair of the very early Longbridge flaps with the screw on plastic handles. They look good to me and are very rare as the handles easily get broken. Maybe you concours guys would be interested. -- _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sun Aug 21 10:25:47 2011 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 11:25:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] indicators Message-ID: I did what Jay Leno would call a Redneck solution. The flasher on my BT7 is near the firewall on the left side. I simply pulled the connectors off the flasher, then inserted the buzzer wires in the connectors and pressed them back on the flasher. As you can guess, this is far from a show car, which is just the way I want it. Jack -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: [Healeys] indicators Message-ID: <00b401cc5f84$8be0d070$ a3a27150$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I put an audible turn signal warning on my BJ8. I've sent John Sims the technical info for his site (http://www.healey6.com). I was going to use chimes instead of a buzzer because the chime tone is less annoying, although still audible at speed; but I ended up using a chime for the left and a buzzer for the right (long story). Now, I can tell which one is on without looking at the light! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 2:41 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] indicators A few days ago there was someone stating that he was going to change his indicator relay for one that clicks louder. I solved the problem of forgetting to cancel the indicators by fitting a small 12V 80dBA buzzer parallel to the warning lights. I have one for right and one for left but if you have a single warning light it will work as well. These can be had from ebay, electronic shops or radio shacks. I paid GBP0,99, about US$2, each for them. The buzz is annoying and very audible also at high speed. You cannot ignore it. Fitted in minutes and you can keep your original relay. Kees Oudesluijs From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Aug 21 10:30:51 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 12:30:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 Air doors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001cc601f$b11ef330$135cd990$@net> FWIW, I found that those little ivory plastic handles are also found on some of the Smiths round heater assembly doors, possibly from Morris Mimors or TR's. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Bromfield Sent: 2011-08-21 12:05 To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 Air doors Team. I'm not sure what the proper name for these is, but they are the little flaps that close off the heater outlets in the footwell. Currently on Ebay, Item 110730944009, is a pair of the very early Longbridge flaps with the screw on plastic handles. They look good to me and are very rare as the handles easily get broken. Maybe you concours guys would be interested. -- _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Aug 21 10:53:40 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 09:53:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] indicators In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To cancelling my turn indicator, I just bring my arm back I.to the car. It never fails . I'll get back to you after I install the TrafficAtor On Aug 21, 2011 9:29 AM, "Jack Feldman" wrote: > I did what Jay Leno would call a Redneck solution. The flasher on my BT7 is > near the firewall on the left side. I simply pulled the connectors off the > flasher, then inserted the buzzer wires in the connectors and pressed them > back on the flasher. As you can guess, this is far from a show car, which is > just the way I want it. > > Jack > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Subject: Re: [Healeys] indicators > Message-ID: <00b401cc5f84$8be0d070$ > a3a27150$@rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I put an audible turn signal warning on my BJ8. I've sent John Sims the > technical info for his site (http://www.healey6.com). > I was going to use chimes instead of a buzzer because the chime tone is less > annoying, although still audible at speed; but I ended up using a chime for > the left and a buzzer for the right (long story). Now, I can tell which one > is on without looking at the light! > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Oudesluys > Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 2:41 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] indicators > > A few days ago there was someone stating that he was going to change his > indicator relay for one that clicks louder. > I solved the problem of forgetting to cancel the indicators by fitting a > small 12V 80dBA buzzer parallel to the warning lights. I have one for > right and one for left but if you have a single warning light it will > work as well. These can be had from ebay, electronic shops or radio > shacks. I paid GBP0,99, about US$2, each for them. > The buzz is annoying and very audible also at high speed. You cannot > ignore it. Fitted in minutes and you can keep your original relay. > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From ggilliam at usol.com Sun Aug 21 10:59:00 2011 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 12:59:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey sightings Message-ID: <148cd361961fa1a3d4c6b2f7137f7c97@usol.com> During this week's Detroit area "Woodward Dream Cruise" and Flint's "Back to the Bricks" massive auto gatherings, Healeys were noted in attendance....a nasty boy on Woodward, and a very nicely done tri-carb side shift 2 seater in Flint. Also numerous MG's, a few Jags....several thousands of cars of all descriptions, just about anything and everything either in static displays or on the move. Gordy Longbridge BN4 '39 Chev Streetrod From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Aug 21 14:13:41 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 13:13:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Suspicious ad In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1313957621.78667.YahooMailClassic@web180611.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> If you take the apron off you might as well take the bumper off too. I think that looks good. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 02 Heritage Springer --- On Sun, 8/21/11, Tom wrote: From: Tom Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspicious ad To: "Marvin James" Cc: "Healey List" Date: Sunday, August 21, 2011, 1:47 PM I've seen a car or two at shows without the apron. I think they look even better without the apron. - Tom On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 10:48 PM, Marvin James wrote: > It's missing the body to bumper apron. > > On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 7:03 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage > > (look at photo# 13): > > > > http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-**Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_** > > Cars_Trucks&hash=**item43a92f4d0c< > http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=ite m43a92f4d0c > > > > > > > > -- > > *********************************************************************** > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > > > *********************************************************************** > > ______________________________**_________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html< > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > > options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.**com< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Aug 21 16:28:11 2011 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 08:28:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed to 4 speed In-Reply-To: <148cd361961fa1a3d4c6b2f7137f7c97@usol.com> References: <148cd361961fa1a3d4c6b2f7137f7c97@usol.com> Message-ID: G'day list My BN1 based Ward Special coupe with its 3.54 diff is great on the road but an absolute pig to get rolling on a hill start. To overcome this, Ibve for some time thought about unblocking the A90 first gear in the BN1 gearbox. Several listers have provided advice about this, but this hasnbt been sufficiently detailed for me to have a go at it. Recently fellow lister Keith Bailey and I had the chance to dismantle one of his A70 gearboxes to see just how the b change speed gateb (item 56, fig. 4 on p F/4 of the BN1 workshop manual) blocks the A70 (or A90) first gear in the BN1 application. It boils down to an extra B Message-ID: <20110821183927.3U4KI.425368.root@pamxwww01-z01> Headlight misallignment? No splash pan. ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Is it just my eyes, or does this car have some serious front-end damage (look at photo# 13): http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-Healey-/290601258252?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item43a92f4d0c -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 21 17:08:31 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 07:08:31 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed to 4 speed In-Reply-To: References: <148cd361961fa1a3d4c6b2f7137f7c97@usol.com> Message-ID: My A90 box has the same spring loaded plunger on it. Not sure what it is for... I also have a slightly used gold seal A90 box for a spare...! Cheers, Alan On 8/22/11, Peter & Veronica wrote: > G'day list > > My BN1 based Ward Special coupe with its 3.54 diff is great on the road but > an absolute pig to get rolling on a hill start. > To overcome this, Ib ve for some time thought about unblocking the A90 first > gear in the BN1 gearbox. Several listers have provided advice about this, > but this hasnb t been sufficiently detailed for me to have a go at it. > Recently fellow lister Keith Bailey and I had the chance to dismantle one of > his A70 gearboxes to see just how the b change speed gateb (item 56, fig. 4 > on p F/4 of the BN1 workshop manual) blocks the A70 (or A90) first gear in > the BN1 application. It boils down to an extra B lug of the above item preventing the selector moving into that position. > Keith kindly donated the A70 speed gate, and by judicious sideways movement > of the gearbox, I was able to swap this with the one in the Ward Special > without taking the gearbox out of the car. Now I have a perfectly useable > b newb first gear, and the ability to take off on a slope without burning > the > clutch. > In another of Keithb s A70 boxes, the speed gate plate has a spring-loaded > plunger set into it which bears on horseshoe-shaped selector gate b whatb s > that for I wonder? > I have photos of the various speed gates if anyone is interested. > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > BN1 Ward Spl coupe > BN1 Holden V6 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Aug 21 18:39:11 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 17:39:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fast and the Furious - The original Message-ID: <1313973551.46932.YahooMailClassic@web161214.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Betcha didn't know they made one before the Vin Diesel, "I live my life 1/4 mile at a time." one, didya? Filmed in 1954, the original features a Jag XK 120 being driven in open road races in So. Cal. Polo helmets, no belts or bars and lots of cheesy photography, There's a few glimpses of an AH 100. Save this for a rainy day in beautiful black and white: http://www.imdb.com/video/hulu/vi3935541273/ Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Aug 21 20:20:19 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 21:20:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fast and the Furious - The original In-Reply-To: <1313973551.46932.YahooMailClassic@web161214.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1313973551.46932.YahooMailClassic@web161214.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I saw this movie on TV when I was in college late one night and had very fuzzy memories of it for years, basically, tried to track it down, eventually did and got it on DVD on Ebay, pretty cheesy movie, but lots of good cars and car scenes, as I recall (I haven't watched it for a while) there are a few scenes where the Jag or whatever is about to crash and they cut away and it transforms into a white Ford convertible or something for the crash scene. They must have had lower budgets for movies back then, but a good thing I guess that "our" cars weren't routinely scrapped making 50s B movies. Greg Lemon From akronzips at aol.com Sun Aug 21 22:25:56 2011 From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 00:25:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: The Morgan In-Reply-To: <007401cc6063$b1d7f210$1587d630$@cox.net> References: <933a4.617f49ae.3a2e653a@aol.com> <007401cc6063$b1d7f210$1587d630$@cox.net> Message-ID: <8CE2E9AB0DC87FF-1BA0-48EEC@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com> Hi Listers Thought you might like this email on the Morgan still being hand built Cheers Howard 61 BT7 Tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: Robert Morris To: Morris, Howard Sent: Sun, Aug 21, 2011 8:37 pm Subject: FW: Fw: The Morgan Attached Message From: Mmcewan5241 at aol.com To: Robertkbl at aol.com; steve2yo4186 at att.net; cotobob at cox.net; rpaladini at sbcglobal.net Subject: Fwd: Fw: The Morgan Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 09:11:41 -0700 From: nanciemcd2002 at yahoo.com To: Itsbakesmom at aol.com, barlen25 at rogers.com, judyanna at sbcglobal.net, Aspyhomai at mountaincable.net, nickysue1234 at msn.com, slomeli22 at yahoo.com, vdixon at comcast.net, 2costers at frontiernet.net, mdpd at sympatico.ca, gelop at cogeco.ca, Mmcewan5241 at aol.com, jamcphill1 at verizon.net, trnmorrell at yahoo.com, gtecurt at earthlink.net, tonkabw at yahoo.com Sent: 12/5/2010 4:30:01 P.M. Pacific Standard Time Subj: Fw: The Morgan FROM: nancie To: undisclosed Sent: Sun, December 5, 2010 8:00:40 AM Subject: Fw: The Morgan So interesting and awesome! Subject: The Morgan W O W ! ! ! ! This is a short story with pictures about a firm in UK that makes cars the old fashioned way. I hope they donbt have splinters or termites.. The Morgan Motor Company located in Britain doesnbt change in a changing world. Not only is it still independent, but it also makes each car by hand. A base model is about $44,000, with some cars costing up to $300,000. People wait for over a year to get their exclusive hand-built cars with the shell made out of metal and much of the vehicle made out of wood. Working on the wood interior, workers use metal shears to individually shape a hood because each car has to be different. Every year Morgan produces about 600 cars. The company will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2011. It has a long and interesting history, and is still run by the same family: the Morgans. Founded by Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan known as bHFSb, it was then run by his son Peter, and is now run by Charles, the son of Peter Morgan. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 SPLIT WINDOW COUPE ? 20 21 YES, A MODERN (?) SPLIT WINDOW COUPE ! 23 24 There are craftsmenb&b&and there are Craftsmen !! -- From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Aug 22 05:01:44 2011 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 12:01:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Weber vs SU's on a 3 carb In-Reply-To: <1313787334.8329.YahooMailNeo@web120529.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1313787334.8329.YahooMailNeo@web120529.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000501cc60ba$e2f5b9c0$a8e12d40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I've three HD6s in my MkII BT7. Dennis Welch (jnr) said at the time that this was a good upgrade and that I'd get more power and economy with head ported by them, their fast road cam, the exhaust manifolds smoothed out (a lot) by me. The MkII comes with three inlet manifolds which can be ground out and polished up to HD6 size but no more, so I was told. The inlet manifolds were easy to do. But had to take it slow and keep measuring....can't afford to take too much out. Don't all shout at once about the power and economy comment. It was DW's take on the deal, not mine originally. Do I agree, after the work? Yes, I do. Caveat: the original HS4s weren't bad but I did rebuild the HD6s and thus they were/are in v.good/as new condition. Have since put on big bore 6 branch exhaust. ie it's able to get the gases out more efficiently as well as getting them in more efficiently. And, yes, that helps too. Am told that HD6s are much easier to work with than HS6s, the adjustments being primarily from above. Certainly, I found the HS4s harder to adjust/work on. Have no knowledge at all of Webers. Not cheap, I gather. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josi Vicente Vargas Sent: 19 August 2011 21:56 To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Weber vs SU's on a 3 carb 3000 3 carbs healey A friend of mine is thinking about upgrading his cilinder head to a dennis welch fast road, mid fast road camshaft but is unsure bout upgrading to bigger SU carbs or going to Webers. All opinions are welcomed... Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Aug 22 06:57:54 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 05:57:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 Message-ID: <1314017874.65086.YahooMailClassic@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Evocative shots of the way racing used to be: http://psychoontyres.blogspot.com/2010/11/day-at-thompson-ct-austin-healey-10 0.html Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From CAWS52803 at aol.com Mon Aug 22 07:33:54 2011 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 09:33:54 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 Message-ID: Hey Rick, Wow, does that bring back memories. I was a regular attendee at Thompson and even have some home movies (16 mm) in the attic somewhere. Rudy in NC From pennell at cox.net Mon Aug 22 08:29:12 2011 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 10:29:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20110822102912.XOBEM.1478382.imail@eastrmwml31> Still viewable? ---- CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: > and even have some home movies (16 mm) in the attic somewhere. > > Rudy in NC > _______________________________________________ From CAWS52803 at aol.com Mon Aug 22 08:55:36 2011 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 10:55:36 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 Message-ID: <12fba.2d8822b.3b83c7e8@aol.com> Yes, they are viewable. I even have the movie projector. I probably took them in the time from 1960-1963. Funny sidebar: I was at the local Walgreens and asked someone there about putting my movie film onto a DVD. All I got was a blank stare. She said, "Do you mean tape, like VHS?" So I explained film to her and she thought it was neat and asked if it was possibly the latest thing. Rudy From tappiokie at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 09:30:00 2011 From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 11:30:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Classics on the Green 2011 Message-ID: Of interest to any and all Healey car owners: September 17 - 18 - The Central Virginia British Car Club/Classic Automotive Events of Virginia, presents its 27th annual Classics on the Green - European Automobile Festival, on Sunday, September 18th, 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., at the New Kent Winery, 8400 Old Church Road, (off Exit 211 on I-64 in New Kent, Virginia). which is hosting a Wine Festival and Tasting in conjunction with the show. The featured marque this year is Austin Healey motor vehicles, along with the Designs of Donald Healey, and a special display of Vintage Racing Cars. Joining the Healeys will be an exceptional collection of other extraordinary nameplates including Rolls Royce, Aston Martin, Bentley, AC Bristol, Nash Healey, MG, Mini, Morris, Triumph, Ferrari, Jaguar, BMW, Delorean, Lotus, Mercedes-Benz, Saab, Volvo, Rover, Alfa Romeo, Lamborghini, Pantera, TVR and many more. There will be music, food, wine, and a variety of specialty vendors. Awards will be given for all Classes, Best in Show and many other categories. The event begins on Saturday, September 17th, with a golf tournament, Hospitality Suite, tours and other social events. This is a rain or shine, pre-registration only show, and on-line or mail-in registration forms must be received by Thursday, September 1st. Spectator admission for the Car Show and Wine Festival is $25.00 for adults (advance purchase available on the COTG website). Admission to the car show only is $10.00 (children 12 and under are free). A portion of the proceeds will be donated to charity. Additional information, registration and ticket purchase is available at www.classicsonthegreen.com . Additional information also is available by calling Kevin Allocca at (804) 909-5751 or Jim Cox at (804)512-1869. From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 10:19:41 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 11:19:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] smith's white face fuel guage. Message-ID: looking for a good working used guage to be used on the for sale BJ7. replies off line. thanks. cheers, -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 10:49:53 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 12:49:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Classics on the Green 2011 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim-- I'll see you there--will probably be bringing the MK IV. Best--Michael ----------------------------------- On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 11:30 AM, Jim Cox wrote: > Of interest to any and all Healey car owners: > September 17 - 18 - The Central Virginia British Car Club/Classic > Automotive Events of Virginia, presents its 27th annual Classics on > the Green - European Automobile Festival, on Sunday, September 18th, > 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., at the New Kent Winery, 8400 Old Church Road, > (off Exit 211 on I-64 in New Kent, Virginia). which is hosting a Wine > Festival and Tasting in conjunction with the show. The featured marque > this year is Austin Healey motor vehicles, along with the Designs of > Donald Healey, and a special display of Vintage Racing Cars. Joining > the Healeys will be an exceptional collection of other extraordinary > nameplates including Rolls Royce, Aston Martin, Bentley, AC Bristol, > Nash Healey, MG, Mini, Morris, Triumph, Ferrari, Jaguar, BMW, > Delorean, Lotus, Mercedes-Benz, Saab, Volvo, Rover, Alfa Romeo, > Lamborghini, Pantera, TVR and many more. There will be music, food, > wine, and a variety of specialty vendors. Awards will be given for all > Classes, Best in Show and many other categories. The event begins on > Saturday, September 17th, with a golf tournament, Hospitality Suite, > tours and other social events. This is a rain or shine, > pre-registration only show, and on-line or mail-in registration forms > must be received by Thursday, September 1st. Spectator admission for > the Car Show and Wine Festival is $25.00 for adults (advance purchase > available on the COTG website). Admission to the car show only is > $10.00 (children 12 and under are free). A portion of the proceeds > will be donated to charity. Additional information, registration and > ticket purchase is available at www.classicsonthegreen.com . > Additional information also is available by calling Kevin Allocca at > (804) 909-5751 or Jim Cox at (804)512-1869. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 11:39:48 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 10:39:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb kit update Message-ID: NFI, I have been trading emails with the folks at Cape International about my carb cable kit for the HD8 conversion on my BT7. They have shipped out an updated V bracket to me today. Although it is their kit, I bought it form another vendor and they are standing behind the parts. The old kit required that the bracket be mounted downwards between the carbs. Although will work, it makes it very hard to attach and adjust. The new bracket mounts facing up. Although their support and development of improved parts for our cars is great, their documentation is a bit wonky. I will be documenting the process with photos for a future article. So if you have experience with this kit, please drop me an email with comments about the installation. -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 22 12:22:25 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:22:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb kit update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001cc60f8$71ea7b10$55bf7130$@net> Ira, If you had put all the stock stuff on your car you'd have had a thousand miles on her by now. I know...to each his own, but reading all your emails on this project has been almost painful. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: 2011-08-22 1:40 To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] carb kit update NFI, I have been trading emails with the folks at Cape International about my carb cable kit for the HD8 conversion on my BT7. They have shipped out an updated V bracket to me today. Although it is their kit, I bought it form another vendor and they are standing behind the parts. The old kit required that the bracket be mounted downwards between the carbs. Although will work, it makes it very hard to attach and adjust. The new bracket mounts facing up. Although their support and development of improved parts for our cars is great, their documentation is a bit wonky. I will be documenting the process with photos for a future article. So if you have experience with this kit, please drop me an email with comments about the installation. -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR From CAWS52803 at aol.com Mon Aug 22 14:33:43 2011 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 16:33:43 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healey Memorabilia Message-ID: <6bde1.4f952a0c.3b841727@aol.com> Healey Memorabilia I have been clearing out my storage area and came across five interesting Austin-Healey Calendars and thought they might be of interest to fellow enthusiasts and collectors. Great for that hobby room or workshop. All pictures are of Big Healeys, Sprites and special Healeys. Perfect for framing! $20 each includes shipping and handling. Personal checks acceptable. First come, First serve! 1.) 1991 Austin-Healey Club of Japan; 15" x 15"; 12 separate beautiful b&w photographs; one for each month in a separate envelope. Worldwide Austin-Healey Calendars - printed in England - All are 12" x 17" in spiral form. 2.) 1985 - 4 pages in color with 2 photographs per page. 3.) 1986 - 8 pages in color 4.) 1987 - 12 large color pictures 5.) 1988 - 12 large color pictures Thanks, Rudy Streng Lenoir, NC From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Aug 22 18:33:56 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 17:33:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump rebuilder Message-ID: I need to ask Dave DePris (?) a question. He rebuilt a fuel pump for me a couple of years ago but I lost the invoice with his contacts numbers and web sight. Can anyone help? Thanks Rich Kahn From britcrs at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 18:47:54 2011 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 17:47:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump rebuilder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's Dave DuBois, http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ Marv J On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 5:33 PM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I need to ask Dave DePris (?) a question. He rebuilt a fuel pump for me a > couple of years ago but I lost the invoice with his contacts numbers and > web > sight. Can anyone help? > Thanks > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 19:21:42 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 18:21:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line Message-ID: >From one of my motorhead friends to another. Definitely impressive, 1936 Pontiac Assembly Line This is really awesome footage.. A 1936 Pontiac assembly factory. Note the automation that was already in place, the workers lack of any & all safety equipment glasses & helmets & and they ALL know exactly what to do & its getting done.. Note also that when the body comes together with the chassis that it is in FULL trim..?? Interior ,windshield, all glass etc. is already in place as it is dropped onto the awaiting rolling chassis.."AMAZING" Simplicity @ its best...Note too when the metal finishers are checking the sheet metal for minute & tiny flaws & defects that they are wearing heavy leather work gloves http://www.dump.com/2011/07/15/fascinating-1936-footage-of-car-assembly-line-video/ -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Aug 22 19:24:17 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 18:24:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Pipes Message-ID: <1314062657.19885.YahooMailClassic@web161214.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Took the Nasty Boy to the shop for exhaust today. Hear it here: http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,25791 Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From linwoodrose at mac.com Mon Aug 22 19:56:54 2011 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 21:56:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Pipes In-Reply-To: <1314062657.19885.YahooMailClassic@web161214.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1314062657.19885.YahooMailClassic@web161214.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Progress, Rick! Does this mean you are driving now? Lin Sent from my iPad On Aug 22, 2011, at 9:24 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Took the Nasty Boy to the shop for exhaust today. Hear it here: > http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,25791 > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Aug 22 19:59:10 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 21:59:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It clearly is choreographed: The workers step up and back from their tasks almost in unison, there is no interchange between them, no false moves, pauses or hesitations *and no one is smoking.* Even the actions of the assembly machines seem to be coordinated! Nevertheless it is quite amazing and the music lends a somewhat sinister "Brave New World" feeling especially when you consider that the functions of most of those men who seem to move like automatons have been supplanted by real robots. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 9:21 PM, I Erbs wrote: > From one of my motorhead friends to another. > > > > Definitely impressive, 1936 Pontiac Assembly Line > > > > > This is really awesome footage.. A 1936 Pontiac assembly factory. Note > the > automation that was already in place, the workers lack of any & all safety > equipment glasses & helmets & and they ALL know exactly what to do & its > getting done.. Note also that when the body comes together with the chassis > that it is in FULL trim..?? Interior ,windshield, all glass etc. is already > in place as it is dropped onto the awaiting rolling chassis.."AMAZING" > Simplicity @ its best...Note too when the metal finishers are checking the > sheet metal for minute & tiny flaws & defects that they are wearing heavy > leather work gloves > > http://www.dump.com/2011/07/15/fascinating-1936-footage-of-car-assembly-line-video/ > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Aug 22 19:59:50 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 18:59:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Pipes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1314064790.27747.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Close. Need to finish insulating the interior, install carpets and seats, etc. and should be ready. Hopefully w/i a month. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 8/22/11, Linwood H Rose wrote: From: Linwood H Rose Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Pipes To: "HealeyRick" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" , "spridgets at autox.team.net" , "modifiedhealeys at yahoogroups.com" Date: Monday, August 22, 2011, 9:56 PM Progress, Rick! Does this mean you are driving now? Lin Sent from my iPad On Aug 22, 2011, at 9:24 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Took the Nasty Boy to the shop for exhaust today. Hear it here: > http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,25791 > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Mon Aug 22 20:36:23 2011 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 19:36:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 In-Reply-To: <1314017874.65086.YahooMailClassic@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1314066983.16891.YahooMailClassic@web130224.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Nice photos. That's quite a rollbar. The car is captioned as a BN6, but appears to be a BN4. If this is 1958, the Bugeye in the 3rd shot is brand spankin new and whats that red fastback thing next to the Sprite? Best JK NYC --- On Mon, 8/22/11, HealeyRick wrote: > From: HealeyRick > Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, August 22, 2011, 8:57 AM > Evocative shots of the way racing > used to be: > http://psychoontyres.blogspot.com/2010/11/day-at-thompson-ct-austin-healey-10 > 0.html > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Aug 22 21:00:04 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 20:00:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 In-Reply-To: <1314066983.16891.YahooMailClassic@web130224.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1314068404.64135.YahooMailClassic@web161211.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Jackson, Sharp eye. The plate on the red fastback is a Massachusetts plate used in 1959 and 1960. The MA plate for 57 and 58 was white on black. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 8/22/11, Jackson Krall wrote: From: Jackson Krall Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Monday, August 22, 2011, 10:36 PM Nice photos. That's quite a rollbar. The car is captioned as a BN6, but appears to be a BN4. If this is 1958, the Bugeye in the 3rd shot is brand spankin new and whats that red fastback thing next to the Sprite? Best JK NYC --- On Mon, 8/22/11, HealeyRick wrote: > From: HealeyRick > Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Thompson, CT -1958 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, August 22, 2011, 8:57 AM > Evocative shots of the way racing > used to be: > http://psychoontyres.blogspot.com/2010/11/day-at-thompson-ct-austin-healey-10 > 0.html > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Aug 22 21:34:38 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 20:34:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wow! In-Reply-To: <01fe01cc5b46$b1ac01e0$150405a0$@verizon.net> References: <2240.6a6c79d1.3b79f6d8@aol.com> <70AC1164D5EC4F83A2FA390EC6A7257F@PatrickQuinnPC> <5F1CEB376A53472F8341A06FC49364F1@PatrickQuinnPC> <01fe01cc5b46$b1ac01e0$150405a0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <11F19A84-4FAB-407F-B141-8BE5888EAEB6@cox.net> I just got a copy from an ebay seller that has two more listed "buy it now" at 245.00. Mine showed up today. NOS in shrink wrap. Not the special boxed version, but new just the same as the 900 dollar one. I had also ordered from a source that I found after googling around. I assumed I'd get the "Item backordered" email, or "none available", but I got a shipping notification today. Wilko On Aug 15, 2011, at 5:27 AM, John Sims wrote: > AND, the Anderson/Moment book is listed at $650.00 --- 170459627092 > Several > available. I will sell my autographed copy for $1,000. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 22 21:41:05 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 20:41:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bodywork question Message-ID: <4E532151.7080901@comcast.net> The left front wing of our BN2 is pretty bunged-up. I got a repair panel from Kilmartin, which is overall pretty high quality. Problem is, the original has a (relatively) heavy flange about an inch in from the rear of the wing--for fitting to the front shut pillar--and the repair panel only has a 90deg bend at the very rear. Anyone fitted up these repair panels? All help, advice, sympathy, etc. accepted. TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Tue Aug 23 07:00:45 2011 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:00:45 +0100 (BST) Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) Message-ID: <1314104445.11459.YahooMailNeo@web24001.mail.ird.yahoo.com> The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764 is BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 lists. Rgds Mike Brooks '56 BN2 Scotland Reply to: mike.brooks at alumni.warwick.ac.uk From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 23 07:52:42 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 07:52:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] for Jim Hockert (SP?) Message-ID: <2E5E09184D5B456A972C48E158E6BF2D@oscar> In the Healey marque is a nice article on cams from our friend in TX.. The 4cyl cars were not included. My simple question to Jim is Is the Isky T3 grind specs the same as for the 6 cyl cam? Thanks dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world From pennell at cox.net Tue Aug 23 07:59:57 2011 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 9:59:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Pipes In-Reply-To: <1314062657.19885.YahooMailClassic@web161214.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20110823095957.L3OGE.350503.imail@eastrmwml38> Looks nice Rick. But doesn't the engine have more than one speed? :) Who did it for you? Keith ---- HealeyRick wrote: > Took the Nasty Boy to the shop for exhaust today. Hear it here: > http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,25791 > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From Healey100M at gmail.com Tue Aug 23 08:17:34 2011 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 10:17:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: <1314104445.11459.YahooMailNeo@web24001.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1314104445.11459.YahooMailNeo@web24001.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4950680D-60AD-4AB7-A441-288D17BBA5B4@gmail.com> Hi Mike, interestingly I have BN2L 230368 (b. 1/19/56) & BN2L 230707 (b. 2/3/56) and both cars have a batch number of 5690. What is yours? Body numbers are 11937 & 12206. The batch & body numbers seem way out of sequence on this car. I do realize that they did jump around some. I do believe that the Vin plate on this car is also a replacement. Seems very odd to me. Also interestingly, this is the 2nd BN2 offered by a UK seller in the last month that the vin number has never shown up before. And both out of California. Maybe Rich C. has some insight. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M White/Black '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans (for sale) '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On Aug 23, 2011, at 9:00 AM, mike brooks wrote: > The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764 is > BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 lists. > Rgds > > Mike Brooks > '56 BN2 > Scotland > Reply > to: mike.brooks at alumni.warwick.ac.uk From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Tue Aug 23 08:51:55 2011 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 15:51:55 +0100 (BST) Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: References: <1314104445.11459.YahooMailNeo@web24001.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1314111115.42920.YahooMailNeo@web24007.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Hi Randy, Wow - yours and mine are aligned - 5690 11928. So it looks like my body, batch no and VIN all tie up. Shame I have the wrong engine - it's from a BN1. I suspect an early owner wrecked the engine and simply fitted one out of a scrapper. Regarding BN2L 230436, it's certainly strange that it seems to have a later batch number. I notice that its VIN and engine number do tie up. By the way, I brought my car back to UK from the US while I was living and working there. Also, the one just advertised is in the US - Kent Collection seems to target a world-wide market and expresses all its prices in your local currency. Thanks for responding. Reply to: mike.brooks at alumni.warwick.ac.uk From: Randy Hicks To: mike brooks Cc: Healey List Sent: Tuesday, 23 August 2011, 15:13 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) Hi Mike, interestingly I have BN2L 230368 (b. 1/19/56) & BN2L 230707 (b. 2/3/56) and both cars have a batch number of 5690. What is yours? Body numbers are 11937 & 12206. The batch & body numbers seem way out of sequence on this car. I do realize that they did jump around some. I do believe that the Vin plate on this car is also a replacement. Seems very odd to me. Also interestingly, this is the 2nd BN2 offered by a UK seller in the last month that the vin number has never shown up before. Maybe Rich C. has some insight. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M White/Black '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans (for sale) '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On Aug 23, 2011, at 9:00 AM, mike brooks wrote: > The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764 is > BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 lists. > Rgds > > Mike Brooks > '56 BN2 > Scotland > Reply > to: mike.brooks at alumni.warwick.ac.uk > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From nelson_wd at msn.com Tue Aug 23 09:01:29 2011 From: nelson_wd at msn.com (W.D. Nelson) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 10:01:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 3000 (1959) Chrome Bezel nuts for Switches Message-ID: I need a source for the chrome bezel nuts used with the OD switch, the Wiper switch and the Choke cable pull that fit on the outside of the instrument panel and hold the switches in place. Unfortunately, these were not included with the new switches I purchased and my purchases are too far in the past that dI fear I have no recourse from my supplier. Please let me know if lyou have a source. thanks, bill From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Aug 23 09:29:53 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:29:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008b01cc61a9$81895490$849bfdb0$@rr.com> Very interesting, especially the final shot of the interior of the car. Years ago, I bought an old speedometer at the Charlotte Autofair to use in making myself a desk nameplate for my office at work. I didn't know which car the speedo came out of until the video showed the one in the '36 Pontiac to be identical to mine. Wonder how many '36 Pontiacs, that absorbed so much manpower during manufacture, are still in existence? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 9:22 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line >From one of my motorhead friends to another. Definitely impressive, 1936 Pontiac Assembly Line From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Tue Aug 23 09:32:52 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 10:32:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 3000 (1959) Chrome Bezel nuts for Switches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: bill, i would imagine you could get these, either new or used, from BCS ( david nock) in ca. cheers, jerry On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 10:01 AM, W.D. Nelson wrote: > I need a source for the chrome bezel nuts used with the OD switch, the > Wiper > switch and the Choke cable pull that fit on the outside of the instrument > panel and hold the switches in place. Unfortunately, these were not > included > with the new switches I purchased and my purchases are too far in the past > that dI fear I have no recourse from my supplier. Please let me know if > lyou > have a source. thanks, bill > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 23 09:55:59 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 08:55:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bodywork question In-Reply-To: <4E532151.7080901@comcast.net> References: <4E532151.7080901@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2505DD8F-92A9-425C-843C-93BA5221D1A9@sbcglobal.net> Bob, on the original fender you will need to open up the crimped edge and remove the piece that attaches the fender to the hinge pillar. Then you can insert into the new section and pinch in place. The other option is I have the fender attachment plate that pinches in the fender and attaches to the hinge pillar for the 6 cylinder cars and could be modified for the 4 cylinder cars. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 22, 2011, at 8:41 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The left front wing of our BN2 is pretty bunged-up. I got a repair > panel from Kilmartin, which is overall pretty high quality. > Problem is, the original has a (relatively) heavy flange about an > inch in from the rear of the wing--for fitting to the front shut > pillar--and the repair panel only has a 90deg bend at the very > rear. Anyone fitted up these repair panels? All help, advice, > sympathy, etc. accepted. > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 23 10:01:22 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 10:01:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Bodywork question In-Reply-To: <2505DD8F-92A9-425C-843C-93BA5221D1A9@sbcglobal.net> References: <4E532151.7080901@comcast.net> <2505DD8F-92A9-425C-843C-93BA5221D1A9@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: The new 3M metal to metal bonding glue is fabulous! No more warped panels and hours of grinding stitch welds. Try it you'll like it. Get a flanging tool to do the job right. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 9:56 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bodywork question Bob, on the original fender you will need to open up the crimped edge and remove the piece that attaches the fender to the hinge pillar. Then you can insert into the new section and pinch in place. The other option is I have the fender attachment plate that pinches in the fender and attaches to the hinge pillar for the 6 cylinder cars and could be modified for the 4 cylinder cars. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 22, 2011, at 8:41 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The left front wing of our BN2 is pretty bunged-up. I got a repair > panel from Kilmartin, which is overall pretty high quality. > Problem is, the original has a (relatively) heavy flange about an > inch in from the rear of the wing--for fitting to the front shut > pillar--and the repair panel only has a 90deg bend at the very > rear. Anyone fitted up these repair panels? All help, advice, > sympathy, etc. accepted. > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 23 10:11:22 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:11:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Bodywork question In-Reply-To: <2505DD8F-92A9-425C-843C-93BA5221D1A9@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1604985214.478135.1314115882111.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks, David. Just the tip I was looking for (hopefully the flange/bracket is reusable). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock" To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: "healeylist" Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 8:55:59 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bodywork question Bob, on the original fender you will need to open up the crimped edge and remove the piece that attaches the fender to the hinge pillar. Then you can insert into the new section and pinch in place. The other option is I have the fender attachment plate that pinches in the fender and attaches to the hinge pillar for the 6 cylinder cars and could be modified for the 4 cylinder cars. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 22, 2011, at 8:41 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: The left front wing of our BN2 is pretty bunged-up. I got a repair panel from Kilmartin, which is overall pretty high quality. Problem is, the original has a (relatively) heavy flange about an inch in from the rear of the wing--for fitting to the front shut pillar--and the repair panel only has a 90deg bend at the very rear. Anyone fitted up these repair panels? All help, advice, sympathy, etc. accepted. TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From rcobb at earthlink.net Tue Aug 23 10:57:04 2011 From: rcobb at earthlink.net (R. Cobb) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:57:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line Message-ID: <4E53DBE0.7040006@earthlink.net> Alas, I believe that production line is showing the manufacture of 1936 Chevrolets, not Pontiacs. The grill, side hood trim, radiator ornament and bumper, among other external features, are key points of identification. Not a big deal on a Healey list, but it would be on 30's GM product lists :-) I agree that the video is very interesting and I was surprised at the degree of automation of certain aspects of the production line. An extremely dangerous place to work however, and note the lack of hearing protection! No wonder many of our fathers/grandfathers suffered hearing loss by middle-age. Bob Message: 8 Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:29:53 -0400 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line Message-ID:<008b01cc61a9$81895490$849bfdb0$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Very interesting, especially the final shot of the interior of the car. Years ago, I bought an old speedometer at the Charlotte Autofair to use in making myself a desk nameplate for my office at work. I didn't know which car the speedo came out of until the video showed the one in the '36 Pontiac to be identical to mine. Wonder how many '36 Pontiacs, that absorbed so much manpower during manufacture, are still in existence? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 9:22 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line > From one of my motorhead friends to another. Definitely impressive, 1936 Pontiac Assembly Line From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Tue Aug 23 12:38:30 2011 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:38:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] NYC Ramblings(or Shakings) In-Reply-To: <008b01cc61a9$81895490$849bfdb0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1314124710.53301.YahooMailClassic@web130201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I passed by Cooper Classics today on Perry street in the West Village. They have a high end blue with leather, BJ8 in the showroom. No one was there to let me get the vin or price. Yesterday I was in Brooklyn and came accross a stripped out 70's/80's? Rolls or Bentley in a vacant lot not far from where I found a vandalized MGC 20yrs ago. This is an area where British Revolutionary War soldiers are reputed to be buried. What do I know?...I'm just sayin.. I took a couple shots if anyone wants them. Best JK NYC From raymead at comcast.net Tue Aug 23 12:45:31 2011 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 18:45:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Naive "underhood heat" question? Message-ID: <1201995976.370177.1314125131006.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hello all, The "mechanical idiot" here............... with a question. Speaking in the MOST GENERAL OF TERMS, can I assume (yep, I know what that makes "us) that, since a temperature guage usually reads around 190 degress, and since engine paint is claimed to be good to around 500 degress, that the normal underhood operating temperature is somewhere between those two numbers - probably a lot close to the 200 degree range?????????B B (this question all has to do with some detailing I am doing in the engine compartment). AGAIN - I'm only speaking in GENERALITIES here - I don't want anyone getting all excited and falling off their chairs over this question......... thanks much,B ray From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 23 13:05:50 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 21:05:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Naive "underhood heat" question? In-Reply-To: <1201995976.370177.1314125131006.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1201995976.370177.1314125131006.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E53FA0E.80606@chello.nl> Apart from the exhaust manifold/down pipe/mufflers there will not be many external bits exceding 190:F. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 23 14:43:56 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:43:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: <4950680D-60AD-4AB7-A441-288D17BBA5B4@gmail.com> References: <1314104445.11459.YahooMailNeo@web24001.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <4950680D-60AD-4AB7-A441-288D17BBA5B4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000301cc61d5$60986470$21c92d50$@net> Gentlemen, BN2L 230436 is a bit out of sequence compared to most others around it, but so are a few others. Batch 5758 began showing regularly about 20th February '56. However various other similar instances where this took place can be found by looking at some cars that were out of sequence such as: BN2L 230343 apparently built January '56 from Batch 5758 Body 12550 BN2L 230241 being from Batch 5758, Body 12471 listed as built 23 Feb.'56 while all the chassis numbers built around these cars are from Batch 5690 and were built around early to mid January '56. It will always be a mystery as to why some cars can be weeks or months out of normal sequence. Reasons varied from waiting for a specific trim colour, to specially ordered components that took the car off the line for installation, or perhaps the opposite such as a special order for some person who saw it pushed through to completion a.s.a.p. Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: 2011-08-23 10:18 To: mike brooks Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) Hi Mike, interestingly I have BN2L 230368 (b. 1/19/56) & BN2L 230707 (b. 2/3/56) and both cars have a batch number of 5690. What is yours? Body numbers are 11937 & 12206. The batch & body numbers seem way out of sequence on this car. I do realize that they did jump around some. I do believe that the Vin plate on this car is also a replacement. Seems very odd to me. Also interestingly, this is the 2nd BN2 offered by a UK seller in the last month that the vin number has never shown up before. And both out of California. Maybe Rich C. has some insight. Randy On Aug 23, 2011, at 9:00 AM, mike brooks wrote: > The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764 is > BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 lists. > Rgds > > Mike Brooks > '56 BN2 From scthomton at yahoo.com Tue Aug 23 15:17:10 2011 From: scthomton at yahoo.com (Steve Thomton) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:17:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Pipes In-Reply-To: <1314064790.27747.YahooMailClassic@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1314134230.51837.YahooMailClassic@web161421.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Rick, Boy that sounds good!!!!! Cheers, Steve http://stevesustinhealey.com --- On Mon, 8/22/11, HealeyRick wrote: From: HealeyRick Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Pipes To: "Linwood H Rose" Cc: "spridgets at autox.team.net" , "healeys at autox.team.net" , "modifiedhealeys at yahoogroups.com" Date: Monday, August 22, 2011, 7:59 PM Close. Need to finish insulating the interior, install carpets and seats, etc. and should be ready. Hopefully w/i a month. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 8/22/11, Linwood H Rose wrote: From: Linwood H Rose Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Pipes To: "HealeyRick" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" , "spridgets at autox.team.net" , "modifiedhealeys at yahoogroups.com" Date: Monday, August 22, 2011, 9:56 PM Progress, Rick! Does this mean you are driving now? Lin Sent from my iPad On Aug 22, 2011, at 9:24 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Took the Nasty Boy to the shop for exhaust today. Hear it here: > http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?4,25791 > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/scthomton at yahoo.com From cynicbass at gmail.com Tue Aug 23 15:36:55 2011 From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 21:36:55 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: <000301cc61d5$60986470$21c92d50$@net> References: <1314104445.11459.YahooMailNeo@web24001.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <4950680D-60AD-4AB7-A441-288D17BBA5B4@gmail.com> <000301cc61d5$60986470$21c92d50$@net> Message-ID: Hi, Mine is from batch 5758 and was built on 10 Feb.'56 but has a higher vin 230802 and according to John Harper's list , the lowest body number recorded 12316 for that batch number. Richard BN2 Sent from Ricky's iPad On Aug 23, 2011, at 20:43, "Rich Chrysler" wrote: > Gentlemen, > > BN2L 230436 is a bit out of sequence compared to most others around it, but > so are a few others. Batch 5758 began showing regularly about 20th February > '56. However various other similar instances where this took place can be > found by looking at some cars that were out of sequence such as: > BN2L 230343 apparently built January '56 from Batch 5758 Body 12550 > BN2L 230241 being from Batch 5758, Body 12471 listed as built 23 Feb.'56 > while all the chassis numbers built around these cars are from Batch 5690 > and were built around early to mid January '56. > > It will always be a mystery as to why some cars can be weeks or months out > of normal sequence. Reasons varied from waiting for a specific trim colour, > to specially ordered components that took the car off the line for > installation, or perhaps the opposite such as a special order for some > person who saw it pushed through to completion a.s.a.p. > > Rich Chrysler > Hundred Registrar > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Randy Hicks > Sent: 2011-08-23 10:18 > To: mike brooks > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) > > Hi Mike, interestingly I have BN2L 230368 (b. 1/19/56) & BN2L 230707 (b. > 2/3/56) and both cars have a batch number of 5690. What is yours? Body > numbers > are 11937 & 12206. > > The batch & body numbers seem way out of sequence on this car. I do realize > that they did jump around some. I do believe that the Vin plate on this car > is > also a replacement. Seems very odd to me. > > Also interestingly, this is the 2nd BN2 offered by a UK seller in the last > month that the vin number has never shown up before. And both out of > California. > > Maybe Rich C. has some insight. > > Randy > > On Aug 23, 2011, at 9:00 AM, mike brooks wrote: > >> The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764 is >> BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 lists. >> Rgds >> >> Mike Brooks >> '56 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 23 15:33:38 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 17:33:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: References: <1314104445.11459.YahooMailNeo@web24001.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <4950680D-60AD-4AB7-A441-288D17BBA5B4@gmail.com> <000301cc61d5$60986470$21c92d50$@net> Message-ID: <000e01cc61dc$5284b530$f78e1f90$@net> Richard, Interesting.....I currently have 8 cars listed within Batch 5758 that are earlier body numbers than yours. Regards, Rich -----Original Message----- From: Richard Korn [mailto:cynicbass at gmail.com] Sent: 2011-08-23 5:37 To: Rich Chrysler Cc: Randy Hicks; mike brooks; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) Hi, Mine is from batch 5758 and was built on 10 Feb.'56 but has a higher vin 230802 and according to John Harper's list , the lowest body number recorded 12316 for that batch number. Richard BN2 Sent from Ricky's iPad On Aug 23, 2011, at 20:43, "Rich Chrysler" wrote: > Gentlemen, > > BN2L 230436 is a bit out of sequence compared to most others around it, but > so are a few others. Batch 5758 began showing regularly about 20th February > '56. However various other similar instances where this took place can be > found by looking at some cars that were out of sequence such as: > BN2L 230343 apparently built January '56 from Batch 5758 Body 12550 > BN2L 230241 being from Batch 5758, Body 12471 listed as built 23 Feb.'56 > while all the chassis numbers built around these cars are from Batch 5690 > and were built around early to mid January '56. > > It will always be a mystery as to why some cars can be weeks or months out > of normal sequence. Reasons varied from waiting for a specific trim colour, > to specially ordered components that took the car off the line for > installation, or perhaps the opposite such as a special order for some > person who saw it pushed through to completion a.s.a.p. > > Rich Chrysler > Hundred Registrar > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Randy Hicks > Sent: 2011-08-23 10:18 > To: mike brooks > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) > > Hi Mike, interestingly I have BN2L 230368 (b. 1/19/56) & BN2L 230707 (b. > 2/3/56) and both cars have a batch number of 5690. What is yours? Body > numbers > are 11937 & 12206. > > The batch & body numbers seem way out of sequence on this car. I do realize > that they did jump around some. I do believe that the Vin plate on this car > is > also a replacement. Seems very odd to me. > > Also interestingly, this is the 2nd BN2 offered by a UK seller in the last > month that the vin number has never shown up before. And both out of > California. > > Maybe Rich C. has some insight. > > Randy > > On Aug 23, 2011, at 9:00 AM, mike brooks wrote: > >> The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764 is >> BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 lists. >> Rgds >> >> Mike Brooks >> '56 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Aug 23 15:53:14 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:53:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] I wish Steve McQueen drove my car..... In-Reply-To: <1314042322.33947.YahooMailNeo@web160802.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1314042322.33947.YahooMailNeo@web160802.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Fellow Listers, I just returned from my yearly trip to Monterey to help my buddy ( http://www.classicshowcase.com/) sell cars. We brought 19 and sold 13 making money on all of them. RM was the best with 6 of 7 cars sold. Our own 1967 911S soft top Targa was parked next to the the Steve McQueen '67 911S for two days, and people all day long were telling me that I was crazy in thinking that it would bring over a million dollars... well I have one free dinner out of that bet. BTW ours sold with a hammer price of $165K with the buyers commission which I believe is 10%. I was there at Christie's Auction in Monterey several years ago when the McQueen Ferrari Luso sold for double it's high estimate. However his 911S was TEN TIMES what and equal car would have sold for, so this Steve McQueen connection is getting ridiculous. Bonham's had a very nice MkII Sprite for sale with a $10-15K estimate (you couldn't build it for that price). There was also a totally original, period Bugeye race car at the very prestigious Concours D'Elegance at the Quail Lodge. I had a very nice talk with the owner and have pictures is anyone is interested. Big Healey wise, good friends Kurt Tanner, and Tom Rocke also had very nice Healeys at the RM Auction a Phase one BJ8 ($70K) and a BN7 two seat tri-carb ($112.5K) respectively. There were at least two former Kurt Tanner BJ8's and two 100s at Russo Steele, another beautiful Tanner Black w/ red interior BJ8 at Gooding, and finally several OK big Healeys at Mecum and Bonham's. Pebble Beach Concours was awesome as usual, and there was a nice Swallow Doretti there plus there were no less than four of one of my favorite cars, the 1953 Siata 208S at Monterey this past week, two red ones a silver and a black, AND one owned by Steve McQueen... go figure. Fun week but I'm exhausted. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 12:45 PM, Edward Perez wrote: > > http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2011/08/20/porsche-once-owned-by-steve-mcqueen > -sells-for-1375-million/ > > > > Edward Perez > Summerville, SC > 78 Midget (1275) > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lbc_newbie/ From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Aug 23 17:54:53 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:54:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line In-Reply-To: <008b01cc61a9$81895490$849bfdb0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1314143693.70061.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Meanwhile, the boffins at Abingdon were proceeding at a slightly slower pace: http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826 The interesting thing about the Pontiac line is that four years later it was using all that capacity to cranki out war material. No wonder the industrial capacity of the US was such an important factor in the Allied victory. Rick . --- On Tue, 8/23/11, BJ8 Healeys wrote: From: BJ8 Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, August 23, 2011, 11:29 AM Very interesting, especially the final shot of the interior of the car. Years ago, I bought an old speedometer at the Charlotte Autofair to use in making myself a desk nameplate for my office at work. I didn't know which car the speedo came out of until the video showed the one in the '36 Pontiac to be identical to mine. Wonder how many '36 Pontiacs, that absorbed so much manpower during manufacture, are still in existence? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 9:22 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line >From one of my motorhead friends to another. Definitely impressive, 1936 Pontiac Assembly Line _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From jeff at pellfam.com Tue Aug 23 18:10:41 2011 From: jeff at pellfam.com (Jeff Pelletier) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 20:10:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Jag E type? Message-ID: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E21199B@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> Have a 69 etype with triple webers... I seem to be way under geared... for some reason... going down highway at 50 MPH im at about 42-45 RPM.. no I don't think its my gauge... because... you can just tell.. I'm at the top of rpm of the engine for cruising... could NEVER cruise at say 65 mph??.. Thanks. Jp From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Aug 23 18:11:39 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 17:11:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] for Jim Hockert (SP?) In-Reply-To: <2E5E09184D5B456A972C48E158E6BF2D@oscar> Message-ID: <1314144699.39410.YahooMailClassic@web161212.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Dave, The specs are different for the four cylinder. They are: Intake 23-57 Exhaust 57-23 Lift. 428 (both inlet and exhaust) duration: 260 degrees (I&E) valve lash hot .018. regrind cost $100 from my 1982 catalog :) Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Tue, 8/23/11, David Porter wrote: From: David Porter Subject: [Healeys] for Jim Hockert (SP?) To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, August 23, 2011, 9:52 AM In the Healey marque is a nice article on cams from our friend in TX.. The 4cyl cars were not included. My simple question to Jim is Is the Isky T3 grind specs the same as for the 6 cyl cam? Thanks dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 23 18:18:55 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 18:18:55 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line In-Reply-To: <1314143693.70061.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <008b01cc61a9$81895490$849bfdb0$@rr.com> <1314143693.70061.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <203ACE656CA3447BBC60ACA3C29D0244@oscar> I'm pretty sure that is a Chevrolet.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 5:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net; BJ8 Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line Meanwhile, the boffins at Abingdon were proceeding at a slightly slower pace: http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826 The interesting thing about the Pontiac line is that four years later it was using all that capacity to cranki out war material. No wonder the industrial capacity of the US was such an important factor in the Allied victory. Rick . From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Aug 23 19:36:11 2011 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 18:36:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: <000301cc61d5$60986470$21c92d50$@net> Message-ID: <1314149771.35485.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Rich, A while back you told me that car 232348 was batch number 5821, body 13788 and 232356 was also batch number 5821, body 12821. I only asked previously because my BN2 had no body tag. My BN2 is 232350, body number 13799. What batch number would my car most likely fall under? Mike MacLean, more confused than ever. --- On Tue, 8/23/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: From: Rich Chrysler Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) To: "'Randy Hicks'" , "'mike brooks'" Cc: "'Healeys'" Date: Tuesday, August 23, 2011, 8:43 PM Gentlemen, BN2L 230436 is a bit out of sequence compared to most others around it, but so are a few others. Batch 5758 began showing regularly about 20th February '56. However various other similar instances where this took place can be found by looking at some cars that were out of sequence such as: BN2L 230343 apparently built January '56 from Batch 5758 Body 12550 BN2L 230241 being from Batch 5758, Body 12471 listed as built 23 Feb.'56 while all the chassis numbers built around these cars are from Batch 5690 and were built around early to mid January '56. It will always be a mystery as to why some cars can be weeks or months out of normal sequence. Reasons varied from waiting for a specific trim colour, to specially ordered components that took the car off the line for installation, or perhaps the opposite such as a special order for some person who saw it pushed through to completion a.s.a.p. Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: 2011-08-23 10:18 To: mike brooks Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) Hi Mike, interestingly I have BN2L 230368 (b. 1/19/56) & BN2L 230707 (b. 2/3/56) and both cars have a batch number of 5690. What is yours? Body numbers are 11937 & 12206. The batch & body numbers seem way out of sequence on this car. I do realize that they did jump around some. I do believe that the Vin plate on this car is also a replacement. Seems very odd to me. Also interestingly, this is the 2nd BN2 offered by a UK seller in the last month that the vin number has never shown up before. And both out of California. Maybe Rich C. has some insight. Randy On Aug 23, 2011, at 9:00 AM, mike brooks wrote: > The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764 is > BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 lists. > Rgds > > Mike Brooks > '56 BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Aug 23 19:38:10 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 21:38:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Alternator question Message-ID: Does an alternator care which way it rotates? In other words when it is energized will it put out current regardless of the direction it spins? Best--Michael Oritt From tonup at tellink.net Tue Aug 23 19:40:06 2011 From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 21:40:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 con rod bolts Message-ID: <38ADE5D485D64DE3A7400E90E5FB9F8F@FrankPC> Thank you for the answers to my rotating connecting rod bolt problem. I pulled the #2 rod out of the parts washer and sure enough, the little "key" on the bolt had sheared off and was still in the rod. Looks like Moss only sells the later, thicker keyed bolts so I think I'll need to machine the rod notches to accept the later type bolts. It would seem to me that Austin must have encountered the same problem and that is why the change was made. Kind regards, Frank From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Aug 23 19:58:30 2011 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 18:58:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line In-Reply-To: <1314143693.70061.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1314143693.70061.YahooMailClassic@web161209.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1D8877D613474FF3A4E600A7AD680C40@LeonardPCPC> As they drove their new car out of the Abingdon factory it was obvious that they were not going to pass their first SMOG test. ;-) (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "HealeyRick" To: ; "BJ8 Healeys" Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:54 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1936 Pontiac Production line > Meanwhile, the boffins at Abingdon were proceeding at a slightly slower > pace: > http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=70826 ....... From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 23 20:05:35 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 10:05:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Alternator question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael - Generally speaking, there should not be any issue with it rotating either way. With some alternators, however, the direction may affect the nut holding the drive pulley? I would assume most modern alternators, however, wouldn't car about this. Alan On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 9:38 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > Does an alternator care which way it rotates? > In other words when it is energized will it put out current regardless of > the direction it spins? > > Best--Michael Oritt From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 23 20:11:59 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 10:11:59 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: <1314149771.35485.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <000301cc61d5$60986470$21c92d50$@net> <1314149771.35485.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I think the deal with the batch numbers is Jensens would make the bodies by batch and then pile them up in the yard, and depending on when and how often the deliveries were made to Longbridge (and later Abingdon), they would arrive in a different order. Often enough the earlier bodies of the batch being assembled later on the line (i.e. first in last out). I have an early Phase II BJ8 (with single indicator lights) and there seems to be no rhyme or reason on when the actual switchover happened to the later Phase II cars, with some later style cars build before the earlier body style. I'm sure Steve Byers can comment on this. Alan On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 9:36 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Rich, > A while back you told me that car 232348 was batch number 5821, body > 13788 and 232356 was also batch number 5821, body 12821. I only asked > previously because my BN2 had no body tag. My BN2 is 232350, body number > 13799. What batch number would my car most likely fall under? > Mike MacLean, more confused than ever. > > --- On Tue, 8/23/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: > > From: Rich Chrysler > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) > To: "'Randy Hicks'" , "'mike brooks'" > > Cc: "'Healeys'" > Date: Tuesday, August 23, 2011, 8:43 PM > > Gentlemen, > > BN2L 230436 is a bit out of sequence compared to most others around it, but > so are a few others. Batch 5758 began showing regularly about 20th February > '56. However various other similar instances where this took place can be > found by looking at some cars that were out of sequence such as: > BN2L 230343 apparently built January '56 from Batch 5758 Body 12550 > BN2L 230241 being from Batch 5758, Body 12471 listed as built 23 Feb.'56 > while all the chassis numbers built around these cars are from Batch 5690 > and were built around early to mid January '56. > > It will always be a mystery as to why some cars can be weeks or months out > of normal sequence. Reasons varied from waiting for a specific trim colour, > to specially ordered components that took the car off the line for > installation, or perhaps the opposite such as a special order for some > person who saw it pushed through to completion a.s.a.p. > > Rich Chrysler > Hundred Registrar > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Randy Hicks > Sent: 2011-08-23 10:18 > To: mike brooks > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) > > Hi Mike, interestingly I have BN2L 230368 (b. 1/19/56) & BN2L 230707 (b. > 2/3/56) and both cars have a batch number of 5690. What is yours? Body > numbers > are 11937 & 12206. > > The batch & body numbers seem way out of sequence on this car. I do realize > that they did jump around some. I do believe that the Vin plate on this car > is > also a replacement. Seems very odd to me. > > Also interestingly, this is the 2nd BN2 offered by a UK seller in the last > month that the vin number has never shown up before. And both out of > California. > > Maybe Rich C. has some insight. > > Randy > > On Aug 23, 2011, at 9:00 AM, mike brooks wrote: > > > The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764is > > BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 > lists. > > Rgds > > > > Mike Brooks > > '56 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healeynut at yahoo.com.au Tue Aug 23 20:13:40 2011 From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 19:13:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Alternator question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1314152020.61754.YahooMailNeo@web113116.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Michael On boats when that drive the alternator off the flywheel they replace the fan with an anticlockwise one. Don Hardie BN1 OZ ________________________________ From: Michael Oritt To: Austin Healey Sent: Wednesday, 24 August 2011 11:38 AM Subject: [Healeys] Alternator question Does an alternator care which way it rotates? In other words when it is energized will it put out current regardless of the direction it spins? Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut at yahoo.com.au From tonup at tellink.net Tue Aug 23 20:35:37 2011 From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 22:35:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 rod bolts Message-ID: <95344D523D8742C5BEE3E97F3F9A7792@FrankPC> I happen to have a 3000 engine (29K) and I think I can use the rod bolts from that. I had planned to rebuild the 3000 engine but it had been left outdoors after it had been "rebuilt" by a ham fisted character. I checked my Moss catalog and the BJ8 bolts are $21 each times twelve. Upon inspection of the 100/6 rods I can see that each rod and cap is stamped with the cylinder number. Was this done at the factory or is this evidence the engine has been apart? Frank From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 23 20:39:38 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 19:39:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Oil Seal Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110823193822.02045bd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Can I use an impact wrench to remove the OD nut, then replace the oil seal without having it fall apart? The OD is on my bench and not attached to the transmission. Thanks, John '62 BT7 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Aug 23 20:41:55 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:41:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] AH Alternator Photos Message-ID: <97C62071F91B4273965D38A40DE77B45@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Would anyone have some good photos of an AH engine fitted with an alternator they can send me please? Both four and six cylinder engines would be good for an article in our club magazine. High resolution please. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 23 21:17:23 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 20:17:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bodywork question In-Reply-To: References: <4E532151.7080901@comcast.net> <2505DD8F-92A9-425C-843C-93BA5221D1A9@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <4E546D43.8030205@comcast.net> Which one? 3M--and others--must have a million different panel bonding products. Bob On 8/23/2011 9:01 AM, David Porter wrote: > The new 3M metal to metal bonding glue is fabulous! No more warped panels > and hours of grinding stitch welds. Try it you'll like it. Get a flanging > tool to do the job right. dave > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of David Nock > Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 9:56 AM > To: Bob Spidell > Cc: healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bodywork question > > Bob, on the original fender you will need to open up the crimped edge > and remove the piece that attaches the fender to the hinge pillar. > Then you can insert into the new section and pinch in place. > > The other option is I have the fender attachment plate that pinches > in the fender and attaches to the hinge pillar for the 6 cylinder > cars and could be modified for the 4 cylinder cars. > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . > > On Aug 22, 2011, at 8:41 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> The left front wing of our BN2 is pretty bunged-up. I got a repair >> panel from Kilmartin, which is overall pretty high quality. >> Problem is, the original has a (relatively) heavy flange about an >> inch in from the rear of the wing--for fitting to the front shut >> pillar--and the repair panel only has a 90deg bend at the very >> rear. Anyone fitted up these repair panels? All help, advice, >> sympathy, etc. accepted. >> >> TIA, >> Bob >> >> -- >> ******************************************************************* >> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net >> >> ******************************************************************* >> _______________________________________________ >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Aug 23 21:24:04 2011 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 20:24:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] broken spoke Message-ID: I just discovered a broken spoke. Will the tire have to be removed to fit a new spoke . Can I drill out or somehow remove the broken threaded part? I recently had the wheel tuned and balanced with new tire by Hendreix. I'd hate to mess up all that nice work. If so, the spoke can be removed via the hub. Thanks Rich Kahn From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 23 22:27:47 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 21:27:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] broken spoke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E547DC3.70007@comcast.net> Depends on where the spoke broke off. If it's broken off right at the nipple you'll have to remove the tire from the wheel and install a new nipple. If there's enough of the spoke to get a good grip with some vice grips you should be able to unscrew the stub (your favorite penetrating oil will come in handy). It's best to use a spoke wrench on the nipple (Moss# 385-800). I think it's 1/4" but an end wrench won't give you much leverage. Forget adjustable wrenches--aka crescent--you'll just round the flats of the nipple. If you get the old spoke out you should be able to feed a new one through the hub. Snug it up until you get the same 'ring tone' as the other spokes. All bets are off if you have a sealed rim--like mine--they're great until you need to replace a spoke or true the wheel. Good luck. Bob On 8/23/2011 8:24 PM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I just discovered a broken spoke. Will the tire have to be removed to fit a > new spoke . Can I drill out or somehow remove the broken threaded part? I > recently had the wheel tuned and balanced with new tire by Hendreix. I'd hate > to mess up all that nice work. If so, the spoke can be removed via the hub. > Thanks > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 23 22:49:42 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:49:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] broken spoke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rich - If you can get the threaded part out of the nipple, you can just put a new spoke through the hub, very easy. if you can't get the threaded part out of the nipple, then you don't need to remove the tire completely, just break the bead and push the edge down. A tyre shop can do that for you without moving the tire out of place and with the tire bead down, you can pull the old nipple out and replace it with a new one. That being said, if you have 60 or 72 spokes, you can run with a broken spoke without much issue. Once you go over two or three, then that's when you really need to take it more seriously. You can simply remove the broken spoke through the hub (to stop it from clattering) and put the wheel back on. I drove on my MWS 72 spokers at one point with 15 broken spokes on one wheel. Of course I was in college and didn't have much money so I let it get a bit out of hand, but one broken spoke is not really a big deal. Alan On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 11:24 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I just discovered a broken spoke. Will the tire have to be removed to fit a > new spoke . Can I drill out or somehow remove the broken threaded part? I > recently had the wheel tuned and balanced with new tire by Hendreix. I'd > hate > to mess up all that nice work. If so, the spoke can be removed via the hub. > Thanks > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Wed Aug 24 00:43:18 2011 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 08:43:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Oil Seal In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110823193822.02045bd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110823193822.02045bd0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You can do that without any problems. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 24 aug 2011 kl. 04:39 skrev john spaur : > Can I use an impact wrench to remove the OD nut, then replace the oil seal without having it fall apart? > > The OD is on my bench and not attached to the transmission. > > Thanks, > John > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 24 01:50:57 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 09:50:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Alternator question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E54AD61.5070409@chello.nl> There should not be any problem if the alternator itself rotates the other direction, however if the direction of rotation is changed the fan on the pulley should be changed for one for the correct direction. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 24 02:19:39 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 10:19:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Jag E type? In-Reply-To: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E21199B@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> References: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E21199B@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> Message-ID: <4E54B41B.7010206@chello.nl> In which gear at 50mph, automatic or manual gearbox. If the gearbox is OK you seem to have a very strange rear axle ratio. Hill climb car? Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From cynicbass at gmail.com Wed Aug 24 02:50:08 2011 From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 08:50:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: <1314149771.35485.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1314149771.35485.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, This list is not quite up to date but gives a good idea of which body numbers fall into each batch.Yours is in 5821. http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/batchnum.htm Richard Sent from Ricky's iPad On Aug 24, 2011, at 1:36, Michael MacLean wrote: > Rich, > A while back you told me that car 232348 was batch number 5821, body > 13788 and 232356 was also batch number 5821, body 12821. I only asked > previously because my BN2 had no body tag. My BN2 is 232350, body number > 13799. What batch number would my car most likely fall under? > Mike MacLean, more confused than ever. > > --- On Tue, 8/23/11, Rich Chrysler wrote: > > From: Rich Chrysler > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) > To: "'Randy Hicks'" , "'mike brooks'" > > Cc: "'Healeys'" > Date: Tuesday, August 23, 2011, 8:43 PM > > Gentlemen, > > BN2L 230436 is a bit out of sequence compared to most others around it, but > so are a few others. Batch 5758 began showing regularly about 20th February > '56. However various other similar instances where this took place can be > found by looking at some cars that were out of sequence such as: > BN2L 230343 apparently built January '56 from Batch 5758 Body 12550 > BN2L 230241 being from Batch 5758, Body 12471 listed as built 23 Feb.'56 > while all the chassis numbers built around these cars are from Batch 5690 > and were built around early to mid January '56. > > It will always be a mystery as to why some cars can be weeks or months out > of normal sequence. Reasons varied from waiting for a specific trim colour, > to specially ordered components that took the car off the line for > installation, or perhaps the opposite such as a special order for some > person who saw it pushed through to completion a.s.a.p. > > Rich Chrysler > Hundred Registrar > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Randy Hicks > Sent: 2011-08-23 10:18 > To: mike brooks > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) > > Hi Mike, interestingly I have BN2L 230368 (b. 1/19/56) & BN2L 230707 (b. > 2/3/56) and both cars have a batch number of 5690. What is yours? Body > numbers > are 11937 & 12206. > > The batch & body numbers seem way out of sequence on this car. I do realize > that they did jump around some. I do believe that the Vin plate on this car > is > also a replacement. Seems very odd to me. > > Also interestingly, this is the 2nd BN2 offered by a UK seller in the last > month that the vin number has never shown up before. And both out of > California. > > Maybe Rich C. has some insight. > > Randy > > On Aug 23, 2011, at 9:00 AM, mike brooks wrote: > >> The car for sale on this link www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=764 is >> BN2L 230436 and mine is 437. I don't think 436 is on any of the 100 lists. >> Rgds >> >> Mike Brooks >> '56 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Wed Aug 24 06:49:47 2011 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 08:49:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cross Roda ball ends Message-ID: Hi Guys, I need to change out at least one side of the cross rod ball ends on the BN2. Not having done this before, any issues I should be aware of before I jump in? What is the best way to get the steering wheel aligned properly without pulling it? Alignment seems pretty straight forward, just a little tedious & fussy. (Planning on 0 toe-in because of the radial tires.)? Sorry for all the questions this early! :-) Randy From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Aug 24 06:51:11 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 08:51:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Number next to mine (BN2) Message-ID: <002001cc625c$80670450$81350cf0$@net> Mike, No need to be confused in the case of your car. It seems well planted in the middle of Batch 5821. Rich From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: 2011-08-23 9:36 To: 'Randy Hicks'; 'mike brooks'; Rich Chrysler Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) Rich, A while back you told me that car 232348 was batch number 5821, body 13788 and 232356 was also batch number 5821, body 12821. I only asked previously because my BN2 had no body tag. My BN2 is 232350, body number 13799. What batch number would my car most likely fall under? Mike MacLean, more confused than ever. From ah3000me at gmail.com Wed Aug 24 06:53:31 2011 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 08:53:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] broken spoke In-Reply-To: <4E547DC3.70007@comcast.net> References: <4E547DC3.70007@comcast.net> Message-ID: What do you do with a sealed rim? The tubeless wire wheels look pretty attractive, but what do you do if you break a spoke? - Tom On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 12:27 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Depends on where the spoke broke off. If it's broken off right at the > nipple you'll have to remove the tire from the wheel and install a new > nipple. If there's enough of the spoke to get a good grip with some vice > grips you should be able to unscrew the stub (your favorite penetrating oil > will come in handy). It's best to use a spoke wrench on the nipple (Moss# > 385-800). I think it's 1/4" but an end wrench won't give you much leverage. > Forget adjustable wrenches--aka crescent--you'll just round the flats of > the nipple. If you get the old spoke out you should be able to feed a new > one through the hub. Snug it up until you get the same 'ring tone' as the > other spokes. > > All bets are off if you have a sealed rim--like mine--they're great until > you need to replace a spoke or true the wheel. > > Good luck. > > Bob > > > > > On 8/23/2011 8:24 PM, Richard Kahn wrote: > >> I just discovered a broken spoke. Will the tire have to be removed to fit >> a >> new spoke . Can I drill out or somehow remove the broken threaded part? I >> recently had the wheel tuned and balanced with new tire by Hendreix. I'd >> hate >> to mess up all that nice work. If so, the spoke can be removed via the >> hub. >> Thanks >> Rich Kahn >> ______________________________**_________________ >> >> >> > > -- > *********************************************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > *********************************************************************** > > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/ah3000me@**gmail.com From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Aug 24 07:15:30 2011 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 14:15:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Cross Roda ball ends In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Randy. If the steering wheel is aligned ok now then it won't change after you have switched out the rod ends. The only thing that will move the steering wheel slightly is if your alignment is off currently and you then put it to zero. I would suggest replacing both rod ends as a pair. They have probably both had the same life and if one is shot the other won't be far behind. Also get one of then clamping tools that forks around the ball joint and squeezes the stud end. Something like this for example. *http://tinyurl.com/3dh4fwf* There isn't a lot of room in there for swinging hammers and the taper needs 'encouragement' to let go. On 24 August 2011 13:49, Randy Hicks wrote: > Hi Guys, I need to change out at least one side of the cross rod ball ends > on > the BN2. Not having done this before, any issues I should be aware of > before I > jump in? > > What is the best way to get the steering wheel aligned properly without > pulling it? Alignment seems pretty straight forward, just a little tedious > & > fussy. (Planning on 0 toe-in because of the radial tires.)? > > Sorry for all the questions this early! :-) > > Randy > -- > _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 24 08:15:22 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 07:15:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] broken spoke In-Reply-To: <4E54FC03.9010806@comcast.net> References: <4E547DC3.70007@comcast.net> <4E54FC03.9010806@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E55077A.8080101@comcast.net> AFAIK, you have to remove the sealing compound--usually, in a chemical (lye?) dip--and re-seal after the wheel is fixed and/or trued. I suppose you could turn a nipple without removing the seal, but I think that might weaken the seal and cause leaks (I've had the seal removed/replaced a couple times, for truing). FWIW, I've never broken a spoke on my chrome/stainless (spokes) 72-spoke, 6-inch Daytons. Note these wheels have stainless spokes, but 'soft' metal nipples (probably for cost or appearance). A couple nipples were replaced with stainless (don't remember why, but not because of broken spokes). That's been my experience, anyway. Bob On 8/24/2011 6:26 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > AFAIK, you have to remove the sealing compound--usually, in a chemical (lye?) dip--and re-seal after the wheel is > fixed and/or trued. I suppose you could turn a nipple without removing the seal, but I think that might weaken the > seal and cause leaks (I've had the seal removed/replaced a couple times, for truing). FWIW, I've never broken a > spoke on my chrome/stainless (spokes) 72-spoke, 6-inch Daytons. Note these wheels have stainless spokes, but 'soft' > metal nipples (probably for cost or appearance). A couple nipples were replaced with stainless (don't remember why, > but not because of broken spokes). > > That's been my experience, anyway. > > Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 24 08:16:20 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 07:16:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bounces Message-ID: <4E5507B4.6000500@comcast.net> I've been getting a lot of bounces from the List server lately. Anyone else similarly afflicted? Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Aug 24 08:59:16 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 14:59:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?pontiac_vs_chev?= Message-ID: <20110824145916.25543.qmail@server278.com> definitely a 36 chev. note the overhead valve engine. pontiac was a flat head. note the chevy logo on a 36 chevy grill. lots of old chevys and pontiacs around in my high school days and i used to know every year by heart, but that is long gone now. hjim From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Aug 24 10:26:59 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:26:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: <029101cc627a$a65237c0$f2f6a740$@verizon.net> test John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Aug 24 10:52:26 2011 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:52:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) In-Reply-To: References: <000301cc61d5$60986470$21c92d50$@net> <1314149771.35485.YahooMailClassic@web180613.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002d01cc627e$347f96c0$9d7ec440$@rr.com> Yes, Alan, I can comment relative to BJ8s. The mass of data (7,707 cars) in the BJ8 registry suggests that there was no particular effort at BMC to assign VINs in ascending sequence in sync with the ascending body numbers. But the correlation is usually close enough that exceptions to the pattern are easy to spot, and is one indicator that perhaps the car itself has lost its original identity. I can tell you there are a whole bunch of BJ8s out there now with the body plate from one car and the VIN plate from another. I believe that the batch number was Jensen's way of accounting for all of the bodies in a single purchase order from BMC, and therefore that in general deliveries were made of cars all in the same batch. There might have been overlap deliveries at the endpoints of the batches, however. As for configuration changes such as the turn signal/parking lights, it's hard to say for sure after 45 years have passed, with ample opportunity for original parts to have been replaced with "incorrect" ones. But again there is plenty of evidence in the BJ8 registry that the factory assemblers didn't pay too close attention to the parts manual when they were building the cars. A good example of this is the dash-mounted rear view mirror. Last time I counted, there were over 100 Phase 2 cars in the registry with the "Phase 1" mirror installed. I would guess that many cars originally like that have been changed back to "correct" with the installation of the Phase 2 mirror during restoration. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 10:12 PM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys; mike brooks Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number next to mine (BN2) I think the deal with the batch numbers is Jensens would make the bodies by batch and then pile them up in the yard, and depending on when and how often the deliveries were made to Longbridge (and later Abingdon), they would arrive in a different order. Often enough the earlier bodies of the batch being assembled later on the line (i.e. first in last out). I have an early Phase II BJ8 (with single indicator lights) and there seems to be no rhyme or reason on when the actual switchover happened to the later Phase II cars, with some later style cars build before the earlier body style. I'm sure Steve Byers can comment on this. Alan From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Aug 24 10:56:08 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 02:56:08 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] test In-Reply-To: <029101cc627a$a65237c0$f2f6a740$@verizon.net> References: <029101cc627a$a65237c0$f2f6a740$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <049B3032-C5B8-4D89-BECF-EA3FC30540C0@gmail.com> You passed John ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 25/08/2011, at 2:26 AM, "John Sims" wrote: > test > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Aug 24 11:20:36 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 13:20:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Emails Message-ID: <02a601cc6282$23dc1c40$6b9454c0$@verizon.net> OK, heres the deal. I am apparently able to send to the list but I have not received anything through the list since August 17th. I am, of course, receiving emails sent direct to me. I've asked Mark to check it out for me. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Aug 24 11:40:51 2011 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 13:40:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Emails In-Reply-To: <02a601cc6282$23dc1c40$6b9454c0$@verizon.net> References: <02a601cc6282$23dc1c40$6b9454c0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: John and all-- I am receiving just fine. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 1:20 PM, John Sims wrote: > OK, here s the deal. I am apparently able to send to the list but I have > not > received anything through the list since August 17th. I am, of course, > receiving emails sent direct to me. I've asked Mark to check it out for me. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From mbran89793 at aol.com Wed Aug 24 13:09:34 2011 From: mbran89793 at aol.com (Marion S. Brantley, Jr.) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 15:09:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] test In-Reply-To: <029101cc627a$a65237c0$f2f6a740$@verizon.net> References: <029101cc627a$a65237c0$f2f6a740$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <8CE30A87D5150D1-3898-AC99B@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com> Test OK here. Marion S. Brantley, Jr. -----Original Message----- From: John Sims To: Healey List Sent: Wed, Aug 24, 2011 12:27 pm Subject: [Healeys] test test John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Aug 24 14:49:15 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 16:49:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bounces In-Reply-To: <4E5507B4.6000500@comcast.net> References: <4E5507B4.6000500@comcast.net> Message-ID: <02c301cc629f$49872ee0$dc958ca0$@verizon.net> All of a sudden I started receiving List postings again. Wonder what happened the last few days. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 10:16 AM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Bounces I've been getting a lot of bounces from the List server lately. Anyone else similarly afflicted? Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ From al at bighealey.org Wed Aug 24 17:38:47 2011 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 19:38:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NYC Ramblings(or Shakings) In-Reply-To: <1314124710.53301.YahooMailClassic@web130201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <008b01cc61a9$81895490$849bfdb0$@rr.com> <1314124710.53301.YahooMailClassic@web130201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002c01cc62b6$fb15c6a0$f14153e0$@org> Jackson: If those British soldiers were already dead and buried - what was the point in 'taking a couple of shots'? :) Al -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jackson Krall Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 2:39 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] NYC Ramblings(or Shakings) I passed by Cooper Classics today on Perry street in the West Village. They have a high end blue with leather, BJ8 in the showroom. No one was there to let me get the vin or price. Yesterday I was in Brooklyn and came accross a stripped out 70's/80's? Rolls or Bentley in a vacant lot not far from where I found a vandalized MGC 20yrs ago. This is an area where British Revolutionary War soldiers are reputed to be buried. What do I know?...I'm just sayin.. I took a couple shots if anyone wants them. Best JK NYC _______________________________________________ From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Wed Aug 24 21:45:01 2011 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 20:45:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] NYC Ramblings(or Shakings) Message-ID: <1314243901.99754.yint-ygo-j2me@web130208.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for pointing that out Al :) I was lucky no one took a couple shots at me. Best JK On Wed Aug 24th, 2011 7:38 PM EDT Al Fuller wrote: >Jackson: > >If those British soldiers were already dead and buried - what was the point >in 'taking a couple of shots'? :) > >Al > >-----Original Message----- >From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >On Behalf Of Jackson Krall >Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 2:39 PM >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] NYC Ramblings(or Shakings) > >I passed by Cooper Classics today on Perry street in the West Village. They >have a high end blue with leather, BJ8 in the showroom. No one was there to >let me get the vin or price. >Yesterday I was in Brooklyn and came accross a stripped out 70's/80's? Rolls >or Bentley in a vacant lot not far from where I found a vandalized MGC 20yrs >ago. This is an area where British Revolutionary War soldiers are reputed to >be buried. What do I know?...I'm just sayin.. >I took a couple shots if anyone wants them. >Best >JK >NYC >_______________________________________________ From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Thu Aug 25 01:40:20 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 09:40:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle Message-ID: Dear Friends, My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express my gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos or telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo many helpfull people are on this list. Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not need me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new adventure. Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey-driving will take place (lol). Something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno Best wishes: Gergo From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Aug 25 01:58:07 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 17:58:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7E802D447E414D05A8BB75D166F35245@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Gergo Many thanks for that. I really enjoyed it and I would have let her drive too. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healey Sent: Thursday, 25 August 2011 5:40 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle Dear Friends, My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express my gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos or telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo many helpfull people are on this list. Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not need me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new adventure. Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey-driving will take place (lol). Something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno Best wishes: Gergo _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Aug 25 04:46:25 2011 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:46:25 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey Gergo, Congratulations!! My nut and bolt restoration was finished 13 yrs ago. It's a community. You help. You get help. You banter. You listen. You learn. You make friends. You enjoy yourself. You argue in a respectfull way. You express opinions. You respect other opinions. You share. It's a community. I haven't owned a Sprite for over 16 years, yet people I met through my ownership of Sprites are still amoungst my closest friends. You don't have to own a Healey to be a Healey person. Sincerely. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 25/08/2011, at 5:40 PM, Austin Healey wrote: > Dear Friends, > > My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to > express my > gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending > photos or > telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". > Many > than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much > worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long > as soo > many helpfull people are on this list. > > Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does > not need > me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new > adventure. > Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey- > driving > will take place (lol). > Something like this: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno > > Best wishes: > Gergo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Aug 25 05:58:19 2011 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 07:58:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE31356A4354ED-1C0C-24866@webmail-d131.sysops.aol.com> Gergo Do you have photos posted of the completed car? Thanks Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Austin Healey To: Healey List Sent: Thu, Aug 25, 2011 3:40 am Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle Dear Friends, My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express my ratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos or elling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many han thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much orse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo any helpfull people are on this list. Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not need e anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new adventure. ntill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey-driving ill take place (lol). omething like this: Best wishes: ergo ______________________________________________ From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Thu Aug 25 07:01:31 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 08:01:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: hi gergo, enjoyed the video. if that is your car in the video, consider using flat black paint on the lower rear shroud flange as well as the X between the radiator and the grille. this improves the overall aesthetics and keeps your eyes from being drawn to these distractions. enjoy! cheers, jerry On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 2:40 AM, Austin Healey wrote: > Dear Friends, > > My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express my > gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos or > telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many > than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much > worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo > many helpfull people are on this list. > > Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not need > me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new > adventure. > Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey-driving > will take place (lol). > Something like this: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno > > Best wishes: > Gergo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From lowden at highspeedcrow.ca Thu Aug 25 07:38:02 2011 From: lowden at highspeedcrow.ca (Graeme Lowden) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 08:38:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E56503A.90701@highspeedcrow.ca> Congratulations Gergo from some one else who has recently finished his Healey project with help from many fellow listers. I have 2000 miles on now and enjoyed every (boring) mile. You might consider following the (One British Car is never enough) mantra and keeping your Healey. Best to you Graeme On 8/25/2011 2:40 AM, Austin Healey wrote: > Dear Friends, > > My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express my > gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos or > telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many > than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much > worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo > many helpfull people are on this list. > > Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not need > me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new adventure. > Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey-driving > will take place (lol). > Something like this: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno > > Best wishes: > Gergo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lowden at highspeedcrow.ca From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Aug 25 09:47:30 2011 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 08:47:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] Nasty Pipes In-Reply-To: References: <1314062657.19885.YahooMailClassic@web161214.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The over riders on the Bugeye are essentially the same as on the Austin Healey 100 with the exception that the 100 over riders used a separate 7/16" carriage bolt and the Bugeye ones have a 3/8" captive nut. See Photos. C On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 7:59 AM, Linda Grunthaner wrote: > What he said ; ) > Hey are the over riders on the Big Healeys the same as the Bugeye? Looks > similar. > Lin > > On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 11:27 PM, WFO Herb wrote: > > > Looks good....Sounds bitchin' > > Herb > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grunthaner at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/cnaarndt at gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0537.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0538.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0539.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0540.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0541.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0547.JPG] From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Thu Aug 25 10:31:15 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 12:31:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle Message-ID: <17786.1d9d7a44.3b87d2d3@aol.com> What a fun video and congratulations on finishing your car ... I'm sure it was with much sarcasm that the fun is over. Go drive! In a message dated 8/25/2011 12:42:48 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, pajtamuvek at gmail.com writes: Dear Friends, My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express my gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos or telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo many helpfull people are on this list. Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not need me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new adventure. Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey-driving will take place (lol). Something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno Best wishes: Gergo _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From jwhlyadv at aol.com Thu Aug 25 15:25:33 2011 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 17:25:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye For sale Message-ID: <8CE3184A7DD8CBE-1FBC-25B3B@webmail-d070.sysops.aol.com> Bugeye For sale Bugeye Sprite Complete nut and bolt custom restoration: Newly rebuilt 1275 with headers and down draft Weber carb Datsun 5-speed Alloy wheels (minilite style) Power brake booster Front disc brakes Crossflow radiator with electric fan New white top with zip out rear window New sidescreens New black interior with white piping Modern wiring harness with relays Alternator Original tachometer converted to electric. H4 headlights New grill. Recent professional body restoration (paint is near perfect on the underside as well as top) Tragically, the restorer of this car only enjoyed the car for a single driving season before passing away from a sudden heart attack. It has very few miles on it since its completion. Over $40k invested Photos and more information at bluegrassclub.com Contact Estefana estefanastrader at att.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Aug 25 16:57:17 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 15:57:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: <8CE31356A4354ED-1C0C-24866@webmail-d131.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20110825185717.V65MR.1699355.imail@fed1rmwml4101> "... photos of completed car?" are at the web link at the end of the video where he is actively trying to sell the car with the "lifestyle" message. http://greenengine.fw.hu/ Listing the Morris Green engine as a feature and possible sign that the car was/is specially built. Wilko From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Aug 25 17:51:44 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:51:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: <20110825185717.V65MR.1699355.imail@fed1rmwml4101> References: <8CE31356A4354ED-1C0C-24866@webmail-d131.sysops.aol.com> <20110825185717.V65MR.1699355.imail@fed1rmwml4101> Message-ID: My handy dandy conversion program says that 55,000 Euros =$78,936.00 USD. Quite an amazing job in such a short time. Bravo! Love the video too. On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 3:57 PM, wrote: > "... photos of completed car?" > > are at the web link at the end of the video where he is actively trying to > sell the car with the "lifestyle" message. > > http://greenengine.fw.hu/ > > Listing the Morris Green engine as a feature and possible sign that the car > was/is specially built. > > Wilko > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Aug 25 21:30:07 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:30:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1314329407.28300.YahooMailClassic@web161216.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Beautiful car, great video! Thanks for sharing and good luck with the sale. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Thu, 8/25/11, Austin Healey wrote: From: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle To: "Healey List" Date: Thursday, August 25, 2011, 3:40 AM Dear Friends, My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express my gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos or telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo many helpfull people are on this list. Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not need me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new adventure. Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey-driving will take place (lol). Something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno Best wishes: Gergo _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 25 22:16:52 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 21:16:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Accumulator housing Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110825211352.020a9da8@pop.att.yahoo.com> I pulled the accumulator piston housing out with a 1-1/8" plumbing expansion plug. The housing came out very easily once the plug was tight enough. The piston was also very easy to remove and replace. According to my OD serial number the piston housing should of had one "O" ring. It had two; don't trust the numbers. John '62 BT7 From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 25 23:14:42 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 00:14:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Accumulator housing In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110825211352.020a9da8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110825211352.020a9da8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E572BC2.4020200@justbrits.com> << According to my OD serial number the piston housing should of had one "O" ring. It had two; don't trust the numbers. >> So yer sayin' it's a two-way street, John ?!? Anon From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Thu Aug 25 23:40:53 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 07:40:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: <1314329407.28300.YahooMailClassic@web161216.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1314329407.28300.YahooMailClassic@web161216.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks for the kind words everybody! Yes, I am selling the car as I honestly say that building/restoring is realy my joy. As I have four kids, we cant realy use a Healey in our life for long. Though the first few hundred miles are mine, and yes I do real enjoy it! The "boring" miles was just sarcasm. According to the price, I have a business partner and he is doing the marketing. I wont comment his pricing but, well You know... Future will tell what would happen. Gergo 2011/8/26 HealeyRick > Beautiful car, great video! Thanks for sharing and good luck with the > sale. > > Rick > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On *Thu, 8/25/11, Austin Healey * wrote: > > > From: Austin Healey > Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle > > To: "Healey List" > Date: Thursday, August 25, 2011, 3:40 AM > > Dear Friends, > > My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express my > gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos or > telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many > than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much > worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo > many helpfull people are on this list. > > Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not need > me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new > adventure. > Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" Healey-driving > will take place (lol). > Something like this: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno > > Best wishes: > Gergo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Aug 26 01:55:51 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 09:55:51 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle In-Reply-To: References: <1314329407.28300.YahooMailClassic@web161216.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Congratulations on a beautiful restoration Gergo. I did not realise this was one of the Morris Green engine cars. What is the C/E number? I'll add it to my website. Just on another point. Anyone else agree that the wire hose clips look much better than the band type. (Irrespective of whther they are correct or not for any particular model) Derek On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 7:40 AM, Austin Healey wrote: > Thanks for the kind words everybody! > Yes, I am selling the car as I honestly say that building/restoring is > realy > my joy. As I have four kids, we cant realy use a Healey in our life for > long. Though the first few hundred miles are mine, and yes I do real enjoy > it! The "boring" miles was just sarcasm. > > According to the price, I have a business partner and he is doing the > marketing. I wont comment his pricing but, well You know... Future will > tell > what would happen. > > Gergo > > 2011/8/26 HealeyRick > > > Beautiful car, great video! Thanks for sharing and good luck with the > > sale. > > > > Rick > > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > > > --- On *Thu, 8/25/11, Austin Healey * wrote: > > > > > > From: Austin Healey > > Subject: [Healeys] Healey lifestyle > > > > To: "Healey List" > > Date: Thursday, August 25, 2011, 3:40 AM > > > > Dear Friends, > > > > My first Healey is now completed. At this point I would like to express > my > > gratitude to all who helped me by answering my questions, sending photos > or > > telling me "secret tips" to solve impossible-looking "BMC riddles". Many > > than thanks Gentlemen, without Your support, the outcome would be much > > worse. Sorry that I dont name anybody, the list would be very long as soo > > many helpfull people are on this list. > > > > Unfortunatly the fun is over now. The car is running fine and does not > need > > me anymore. I have to find a new home for him soon to start a new > > adventure. > > Untill I succeed to find a new owner, I think some "boring" > Healey-driving > > will take place (lol). > > Something like this: > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVZH3WZOdno > > > > Best wishes: > > Gergo > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Aug 26 04:48:41 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 12:48:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 'Rat Rod' Message-ID: Check out this Healey on Bring a Trailer.com Fitted with a Ford V8 and 4 (four!) SU HD8s, and bodywork modified from 4 seat to 2 seat. The paint is original patina from 'a cheap 1970s' respray. I absolutely love it. It sold in a day for ....12,000 dollars. I'll repeat...12,000 dollars!!!!!!!! Some guys have all the luck enjoy http://bringatrailer.com/2011/07/21/plenty-of-su-1961-austin-healey-3000-bt7/ Derek From e-wilkins at cox.net Fri Aug 26 08:49:15 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 07:49:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 'Rat Rod' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3AE3BB79-C283-4183-85B4-391D746C5B8A@cox.net> I love that vintage look. Awesome car. Wilko On Aug 26, 2011, at 3:48 AM, Derek Job wrote: > Check out this Healey on Bring a Trailer.com > > Fitted with a Ford V8 and 4 (four!) SU HD8s, and bodywork modified from 4 > seat to 2 seat. > > The paint is original patina from 'a cheap 1970s' respray. > > I absolutely love it. > > It sold in a day for ....12,000 dollars. I'll repeat...12,000 > dollars!!!!!!!! Some guys have all the luck > > enjoy > > http://bringatrailer.com/2011/07/21/plenty-of-su-1961-austin-healey-3000-bt7/ > > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From shop at justbrits.com Fri Aug 26 08:52:42 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 09:52:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 'Rat Rod' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E57B33A.4060900@justbrits.com> "HOLY SH*T, Batman ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Batman, go to the _* old*_ B.A.T. page below:" [Batman goes to page, then replies to Robin [ "OMG, Robin ! [real comment censored b y Editor.] How could they NOT recog' front clip ?!? UN-real !" "I thought I'd seen ALL the "odd" Big Healey mods, Robin ! ! ! But I guess NOT, Boywonder :-(-(-(" http://tinyurl.com/3nevhml OR http://bringatrailer.com/2010/09/21/mystery-machine-altered-1954-austin-healey-100/ [signed:-)] Absolutely Anon ! ! From gbrierton at hotmail.com Fri Aug 26 06:56:26 2011 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 08:56:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: test 8-26-11 8:55 From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Aug 26 10:00:26 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 18:00:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 'Rat Rod' In-Reply-To: <4E57B33A.4060900@justbrits.com> References: <4E57B33A.4060900@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ehhh!!!!!????!!!!! It's a shame we get trolls on the list. On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 4:52 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > "HOLY SH*T, Batman ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Batman, go to the _* > old*_ B.A.T. page below:" > > [Batman goes to page, then replies to Robin [ > > "OMG, Robin ! [real comment censored b y Editor.] > How could they NOT recog' front clip ?!? UN-real !" > "I thought I'd seen ALL the "odd" Big Healey mods, Robin ! ! ! > But I guess NOT, Boywonder :-(-(-(" > > http://tinyurl.com/3nevhml > > OR > > http://bringatrailer.com/2010/**09/21/mystery-machine-altered-** > 1954-austin-healey-100/ > > [signed:-)] > Absolutely Anon ! ! > > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From george at franciscovich.net Fri Aug 26 10:33:10 2011 From: george at franciscovich.net (George Franciscovich) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 12:33:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] R Message-ID: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Fri Aug 26 11:07:40 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 13:07:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] R Message-ID: <2dc39.7f1922e2.3b892cdc@aol.com> Is it speak pirate day? Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, and what happened to Friday Funnies? I just heard the earthquake in Washington DC was actually caused by the founding fathers turning over in their graves. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 8/26/2011 9:34:18 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, george at franciscovich.net writes: _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 26 11:11:04 2011 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 12:11:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> Message-ID: <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> Folks, A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel tanks sold by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks. Ron From e-wilkins at cox.net Fri Aug 26 11:18:27 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 10:18:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] R In-Reply-To: <2dc39.7f1922e2.3b892cdc@aol.com> Message-ID: <20110826131827.2QJRA.685623.imail@fed1rmwml40> ...and USGS found a new feature in the tektonic plates there. It's been named "Obama's Fault" ---- ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > Is it speak pirate day? Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, and what happened to Friday > Funnies? > > I just heard the earthquake in Washington DC was actually caused by the > founding fathers turning over in their graves. > > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 26 11:41:54 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 10:41:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> Message-ID: <8F822E7B-78EC-4DD2-8AAD-0A8E56F1B124@sbcglobal.net> Yes we have the last several tanks we got had several problems. According to Jorge I am the only one who has ever complained about the tanks. 100/4 tanks the filler hole in the tank was round with a oval pipe welded on top. The gas would back up and spill into the trunk. The front and back sides were not square and would not fit correctly in the trunk. The aluminium tank we had one the threads were bad. I returned the tank then he returned the bad one to me again as another tank Totally i have got about 4 tanks from him in the last year and all of them had problems with them David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 26, 2011, at 10:11 AM, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel > tanks sold > by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. > Any comments would be appreciated. > Thanks. > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Fri Aug 26 12:11:08 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 11:11:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <8F822E7B-78EC-4DD2-8AAD-0A8E56F1B124@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <20110826141108.S3GHU.686378.imail@fed1rmwml40> I live in San Diego and bought one from him years ago. It looks very home made and is not what I would call square. I would not ever consider it to look original. It holds gas, and will be in the trunk and covered, so in that regard, it's alright. You want mine? It's clean and out of my car. You can have it cheap. Wilko > . > > On Aug 26, 2011, at 10:11 AM, Ron Ray wrote: > > > Folks, > > > > A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel > > tanks sold > > by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. > > Any comments would be appreciated. > > Thanks. > > Ron > > _______________________________________________ From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 26 12:45:03 2011 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 11:45:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <8F822E7B-78EC-4DD2-8AAD-0A8E56F1B124@sbcglobal.net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> <8F822E7B-78EC-4DD2-8AAD-0A8E56F1B124@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1314384303.67807.YahooMailNeo@web120525.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I bought this year an aluminium tank from Jorge cervera and I have no complains what so ever. The fit was perfect, etc... Austin healey 100/4 Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia >________________________________ >From: David Nock >To: Ron Ray >Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 12:41 PM >Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel tanks > >Yes we have the last several tanks we got had several problems. >According to Jorge I am the only one who has ever complained about >the tanks. > > 100/4 tanks the filler hole in the tank was round with a oval pipe >welded on top. The gas would back up and spill into the trunk. > The front and back sides were not square and would not fit correctly >in the trunk. > The aluminium tank we had one the threads were bad. I returned the >tank then he returned the bad one to me again as another tank > >Totally i have got about 4 tanks from him in the last year and all of >them had problems with them > > >David Nock >British Car Specialists >Stockton Ca 95205 >209-948-8767 > >www.britishcarspecialists.com >. >. > >On Aug 26, 2011, at 10:11 AM, Ron Ray wrote: > >> Folks, >> >> A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel >> tanks sold >> by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. >> Any comments would be appreciated. >> Thanks. >> Ron >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From cynicbass at gmail.com Fri Aug 26 12:59:43 2011 From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 18:59:43 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> Message-ID: <21311C73-D45E-424E-8D9E-DC2EA35EF9EF@gmail.com> FWIW.....I bought a steel tank for my 100 in 2008 and have had no trouble with it. It looks like the original,fit fine and the thread was correct and in the right place. The only difference is inside the pipe where it meets the tank, it isn't open all the way around and if you aren't careful you could get the trunk wet,but I was told this before I bought it. Richard BN2 Sent from Ricky's iPad On Aug 26, 2011, at 17:11, "Ron Ray" wrote: > Folks, > > A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel tanks sold > by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. > Any comments would be appreciated. > Thanks. > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri Aug 26 18:29:18 2011 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 17:29:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <21311C73-D45E-424E-8D9E-DC2EA35EF9EF@gmail.com> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> <21311C73-D45E-424E-8D9E-DC2EA35EF9EF@gmail.com> Message-ID: I have one of his early aluminum tanks for my jensen healey. It wasn't perfect, but they were just beginning to make those. Jody On 8/26/11, Richard Korn wrote: > FWIW.....I bought a steel tank for my 100 in 2008 and have had no trouble > with > it. It looks like the original,fit fine and the thread was correct and in > the > right place. The only difference is inside the pipe where it meets the tank, > it isn't open all the way around and if you aren't careful you could get the > trunk wet,but I was told this before I bought it. > > Richard > BN2 > > Sent from Ricky's iPad > > On Aug 26, 2011, at 17:11, "Ron Ray" wrote: > >> Folks, >> >> A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel tanks sold >> by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. >> Any comments would be appreciated. >> Thanks. >> Ron >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ https://www.facebook.com/pages/They-Might-Be-Racing/182813478411202<--Follow us on Facebook! 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From ghess4 at cox.net Fri Aug 26 18:43:39 2011 From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 17:43:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] R In-Reply-To: <20110826131827.2QJRA.685623.imail@fed1rmwml40> References: <20110826131827.2QJRA.685623.imail@fed1rmwml40> Message-ID: <5DD049D17BC24162B07CCC772F981413@GalePC> > Is it speak pirate day? Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, and what happened to Friday > Funnies? Seems like, in our country (USA) the complaints of just a few are now running things for the majority. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] R > ...and USGS found a new feature in the tektonic plates there. It's been > named "Obama's Fault" > > ---- ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: >> Is it speak pirate day? Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, and what happened to Friday >> Funnies? >> >> I just heard the earthquake in Washington DC was actually caused by the >> founding fathers turning over in their graves. >> >> Steven Kingsbury >> BN1 #598 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghess4 at cox.net From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Aug 26 19:11:23 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 18:11:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Video Message-ID: <4E58443B.8000502@comcast.net> A guy on the Healey interest group on LinkedIn posted this: http://airtightproductions.com/products.html The sound mixing seems off, but the sound of the Streamliner is pretty impressive. NFI, etc. ... just passing it along. Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jimf at frakes-eng.com Fri Aug 26 19:58:49 2011 From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 21:58:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb kit update In-Reply-To: <000001cc60f8$71ea7b10$55bf7130$@net> References: <000001cc60f8$71ea7b10$55bf7130$@net> Message-ID: Amen Rich, Having done or tried to do many mods, it is simpler to "just like it shipped". Jim -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 2:22 PM To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help' Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb kit update Ira, If you had put all the stock stuff on your car you'd have had a thousand miles on her by now. I know...to each his own, but reading all your emails on this project has been almost painful. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: 2011-08-22 1:40 To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] carb kit update NFI, I have been trading emails with the folks at Cape International about my carb cable kit for the HD8 conversion on my BT7. They have shipped out an updated V bracket to me today. Although it is their kit, I bought it form another vendor and they are standing behind the parts. The old kit required that the bracket be mounted downwards between the carbs. Although will work, it makes it very hard to attach and adjust. The new bracket mounts facing up. Although their support and development of improved parts for our cars is great, their documentation is a bit wonky. I will be documenting the process with photos for a future article. So if you have experience with this kit, please drop me an email with comments about the installation. -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 26 20:05:30 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 22:05:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> Message-ID: <000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net> I have purchased, painted and installed a total of 3 of the 6 cylinder steel tanks and 4 of the 4 cylinder steel tanks dating from about 2002 through 2010 and all have been fine with no issues. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Ray Sent: 2011-08-26 1:11 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks Folks, A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel tanks sold by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks. Ron _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Aug 26 20:57:34 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 19:57:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb kit update In-Reply-To: References: <000001cc60f8$71ea7b10$55bf7130$@net> Message-ID: If you all had been paying attention.... my stock BT7 LINKAGE will not work with HD8 carbs. Besides my stock linkage has been out of wack for years. I would had modify my linkage anyway to accommodate the bj8 Linkage anyway. Almost got it done. Need to drill holes in the footbox for the cable bracket and I'm done!!! From e-wilkins at cox.net Fri Aug 26 21:38:36 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 20:38:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> <000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net> Message-ID: <33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net> Seriously? I just went out to my garage to take pictures of just how "rustic" the steel tank is but found that I threw it away. Seriously. It functions ok, but the build was of no quality for a restore. I can't believe that Rich Chrysler would not have an issue with these... There was not on straight line on the whole tank. all hand made. Originals have edges manufactured where the sides meet the body of the tank. His are just welded along the outer edge. I found the pics I took when I was trying to sell it. Have a look for yourselves and make the call. http://ewilkins.com/misc/healeys/tank_bottom.jpg http://ewilkins.com/misc/healeys/tank_bottom_2.jpg http://ewilkins.com/misc/healeys/tank_top_1.jpg http://ewilkins.com/misc/healeys/tank_top.jpg Wilko San Diego (chua vista is just down the street in San Diego County) On Aug 26, 2011, at 7:05 PM, Rich Chrysler wrote: > I have purchased, painted and installed a total of 3 of the 6 cylinder steel > tanks and 4 of the 4 cylinder steel tanks dating from about 2002 through > 2010 and all have been fine with no issues. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Ron Ray > Sent: 2011-08-26 1:11 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks > > Folks, > > A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel tanks sold > by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. > Any comments would be appreciated. > Thanks. > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From akronzips at aol.com Fri Aug 26 21:54:41 2011 From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 23:54:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Using lizardskin on Healey wheel wells//interior Message-ID: <8CE32842F12FC1F-1EB8-C78A@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> Rich: My car has just had it's first coat of gray sealer primer put down on it. I am about to put Lizardskin sound deadening on the interior of my Healey . I plan on putting it on the floor,doors , wheel wells and underneath on the lower body. Once that is done I plan on putting the heat reducer ceramic spray on the interior parts of the cab and the interior of the firewall. (Not the engine bay) Currently my car has a coat of sealer primer on it as I state above and I'm concerned about how well this Lizardskin will stick,adhere to the primer surface. Has anyone on the list put Lizarskin on over a coat of primer? I then want to paint the car with a sealer type primer and then put the Healey blue paint on. (Too thick? Will the lizardskin allow paint to adhere to the surface? I also wanted to know if this product will hold the paint I'm about to apply over it (Healey Blue) on the frame Thanks Howard akronzips at aol.com 61 BT7 Tri-carb From akronzips at aol.com Fri Aug 26 22:37:12 2011 From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 00:37:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Using lizardskin on Healey wheel wells//interior In-Reply-To: References: <8CE32842F12FC1F-1EB8-C78A@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CE328A1F59C5EA-1EB8-CADB@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> True : I'm going to call them tomorrow morning. My restorer claims that I should have no problems. I just wondered if anyone on the list had used this product (Lizardskin) and what their experience was with it? Thanks Howard 61 BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: Roland Wilhelmy To: akronzips Sent: Sat, Aug 27, 2011 12:23 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Using lizardskin on Healey wheel wells//interior Howard- These sound like the questions that you need to ask your automotive paint supplier (not Lizardskin, necessarily, but the store that has to stand behind the stuff). -Roland On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 23:54:41 -0400 (EDT), you wrote: :: Rich: ::My car has just had it's first coat of gray sealer primer put down on it. :: ::I am about to put Lizardskin sound deadening on the interior of my Healey . I ::plan on putting it on the floor,doors , wheel wells and underneath on the ::lower body. Once that is done I plan on putting the heat reducer ceramic spray ::on the interior parts of the cab and the interior of the firewall. (Not the ::engine bay) :: ::Currently my car has a coat of sealer primer on it as I state above and I'm ::concerned about how well this Lizardskin will stick,adhere to the primer ::surface. :: ::Has anyone on the list put Lizarskin on over a coat of primer? :: ::I then want to paint the car with a sealer type primer and then put the Healey ::blue paint on. (Too thick? ::Will the lizardskin allow paint to adhere to the surface? :: :: I also wanted to know if this product will hold the paint I'm about to apply ::over it (Healey Blue) on the frame :: ::Thanks ::Howard akronzips at aol.com ::61 BT7 Tri-carb From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 27 01:03:07 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 09:03:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> <000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net> <33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net> Message-ID: <4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> In my view the damage shown in the pictures must have been caused during transport or storage as the impressed ridges are also bend, which would not have happened during manufacturing/welding. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 27 01:09:59 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 09:09:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Using lizardskin on Healey wheel wells//interior In-Reply-To: <8CE32842F12FC1F-1EB8-C78A@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE32842F12FC1F-1EB8-C78A@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4E589847.6010104@chello.nl> To be effective the ceramic spray is better applied on the heat source side, i.e. engine , transmission, exhaust, to keep the heat away from the metal. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From e-wilkins at cox.net Sat Aug 27 02:18:00 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 01:18:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> <000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net> <33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net> <4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> Message-ID: <09C8EBA4-2AD1-4ADF-89F2-C2D0F61FFC35@cox.net> No. This is how it was obviously built. This tank was not shipped. He handed it to me personnally. While not exactly clear, the current picture on his ebay shows similar construction. These are not dents from bumping or moving. They are from primitive tools and hand work. On Aug 27, 2011, at 12:03 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > In my view the damage shown in the pictures must have been caused during transport or storage as the impressed ridges are also bend, which would not have happened during manufacturing/welding. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 27 02:32:19 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 10:32:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <09C8EBA4-2AD1-4ADF-89F2-C2D0F61FFC35@cox.net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> <000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net> <33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net> <4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> <09C8EBA4-2AD1-4ADF-89F2-C2D0F61FFC35@cox.net> Message-ID: <4E58AB93.5020306@chello.nl> Than he must be ashamed of himself. One does not deliver goods in such a condition. Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 27 09:17:59 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 08:17:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> <000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net> <33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net> <4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> Message-ID: All the recent tanks that I have received recently looked liked they were straightened with a sledge hammer. The vertical sides were not square. The front and rear sides were not bowed so the straps would not reach. I returned all of them. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com On Aug 27, 2011, at 12:03 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > In my view the damage shown in the pictures must have been caused during > transport or storage as the impressed ridges are also bend, which would > not have happened during manufacturing/welding. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From al at bighealey.org Sat Aug 27 10:31:37 2011 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 12:31:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] R In-Reply-To: <20110826131827.2QJRA.685623.imail@fed1rmwml40> References: <2dc39.7f1922e2.3b892cdc@aol.com> <20110826131827.2QJRA.685623.imail@fed1rmwml40> Message-ID: <005501cc64d6$cb8c4bd0$62a4e370$@org> I know that I wandered off the list for a while - but I thought the general consensus [not to mention the instructions from the list owner and moderator] was that we would keep the political commentary OFF the list. Maybe I misunderstood... -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of e-wilkins at cox.net Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 1:18 PM To: george at franciscovich.net; healeys at autox.team.net; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] R ...and USGS found a new feature in the tektonic plates there. It's been named "Obama's Fault" From Healey100M at gmail.com Sat Aug 27 10:35:10 2011 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 12:35:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] R In-Reply-To: <005501cc64d6$cb8c4bd0$62a4e370$@org> References: <2dc39.7f1922e2.3b892cdc@aol.com> <20110826131827.2QJRA.685623.imail@fed1rmwml40> <005501cc64d6$cb8c4bd0$62a4e370$@org> Message-ID: <4BB4C977-4C0F-4E20-B532-4E87300C44B3@gmail.com> Friday funnies. Lighten up. It is funny, not true but funny. Randy On Aug 27, 2011, at 12:31 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > I know that I wandered off the list for a while - but I thought the general > consensus [not to mention the instructions from the list owner and > moderator] was that we would keep the political commentary OFF the list. > > Maybe I misunderstood... > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of e-wilkins at cox.net > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 1:18 PM > To: george at franciscovich.net; healeys at autox.team.net; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] R > > ...and USGS found a new feature in the tektonic plates there. It's been > named "Obama's Fault" > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 27 10:44:04 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:44:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] R In-Reply-To: <005501cc64d6$cb8c4bd0$62a4e370$@org> References: <2dc39.7f1922e2.3b892cdc@aol.com> <20110826131827.2QJRA.685623.imail@fed1rmwml40> <005501cc64d6$cb8c4bd0$62a4e370$@org> Message-ID: <4E591ED4.5000109@chello.nl> That is hardly political. It is funny. There is no harm in it, is there? Or have Yanks very long toes? Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Aug 27 10:51:10 2011 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 12:51:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] R Message-ID: <20110827.095200.960.145088@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> Kees, Yanks suffer from years of PC and everyone looking for something to be offended by. We have lost the ability to laugh at ourselves and each other. Perhaps the world would be a better place if everyone smiled. :):):):) Doug > That is hardly political. It is funny. There is no harm in it, is > there? > Or have Yanks very long toes? > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a > name of coudesluijs.vcf] > ____________________________________________________________ 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25 Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e5920e94f2609e63fbst06duc From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Aug 27 11:02:26 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 11:02:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] To brighten your day... Message-ID: frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world _____ www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXvJ8UquYoo From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sat Aug 27 11:11:31 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 13:11:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] To brighten your day... Message-ID: <6d7d5.318c84b9.3b8a7f43@aol.com> Thanks ... that was fun. In a message dated 8/27/2011 10:04:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, frogeye at porterscustom.com writes: frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world _____ www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXvJ8UquYoo _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 27 11:26:07 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 10:26:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive adaptor plate studs Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110827102454.0203c610@pop.att.yahoo.com> Does anyone know of a source for the overdrive adaptor plate studs? The are 5/16" x 24 TPI on both ends. Thanks, John '62 BT7 From agrossman at pacific.net Sat Aug 27 11:28:24 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 10:28:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front suspension question Message-ID: <20CB82715A114DF9A0ADD96E86A4F0FD@AlanPC> Hi, My front end feels wobbly on the road, there is noticeable movement in the lower swivel pin bush both sides. So it seems like I should go for new bushes. Is it wise to disaassemble the suspension with the floor jack method? Do the bushes need to be reamed? Everything, else feels okay; what should I be looking at, or replace as a matter of course, while it's apart? Thanks, Alan '58 100 6 From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sat Aug 27 11:30:20 2011 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 10:30:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] To brighten your day... In-Reply-To: <6d7d5.318c84b9.3b8a7f43@aol.com> References: <6d7d5.318c84b9.3b8a7f43@aol.com> Message-ID: Dave, Thanks for sharing that! I'm a big fan of jive and swing and hadn't heard of these guys before. Now it's time to search out some of their cds. Jody On 8/27/11, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > Thanks ... that was fun. > > > In a message dated 8/27/2011 10:04:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > frogeye at porterscustom.com writes: > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice > pictures-fun facts-my world > > _____ > > > > > > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXvJ8UquYoo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ https://www.facebook.com/pages/They-Might-Be-Racing/182813478411202<--Follow us on Facebook! 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sat Aug 27 11:55:29 2011 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 19:55:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Sports Car Show in Sweden Message-ID: For anyone that might be interested I have just published some photos on my website from a car show featuring several Healeys. Please click the following link to see the photos: http://www.concourshealeys.com/hofsnas-sports-car-show-2011/ Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 27 12:08:59 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 11:08:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front suspension question In-Reply-To: <20CB82715A114DF9A0ADD96E86A4F0FD@AlanPC> References: <20CB82715A114DF9A0ADD96E86A4F0FD@AlanPC> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110827110656.02005000@pop.att.yahoo.com> Make some long all-thread rods, you will need two to lower and tighten the lower spring plate. Be sure to use all-thread that is the same diameter as the bolts because if the plate is skewed at all it will be extremely difficult to get all four bolts to align. John At 10:28 AM 8/27/2011 -0700, you wrote: >Hi, >My front end feels wobbly on the road, there is noticeable movement in the >lower swivel pin bush both sides. So it seems like I should go for new bushes. > >Is it wise to disaassemble the suspension with the floor jack method? > >Do the bushes need to be reamed? > >Everything, else feels okay; what should I be looking at, or replace as a >matter of course, while it's apart? > >Thanks, Alan > >'58 100 6 >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > >__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus >signature database 6415 (20110827) __________ > >The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > >http://www.eset.com From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Aug 27 12:14:40 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:14:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Gas Tanks Message-ID: <1784623951.776700.1314468880897.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, Has anyone tried Gas Tank Renu??B And results were???? The tank in my BN4 is not rusty, but has been damaged on the right side and has one loose baffle. Ed Woods From randerson33 at triad.rr.com Sat Aug 27 12:56:24 2011 From: randerson33 at triad.rr.com (randerson33 at triad.rr.com) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 14:56:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas Tanks In-Reply-To: <1784623951.776700.1314468880897.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20110827185624.6FRYH.27728.root@cdptpa-web11-z01> I had a Jensen Healey tank repaired using this method. Had no futher problems after. RJA ---- fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: > List, > > > > Has anyone tried Gas Tank Renu??B And results were???? The tank in my BN4 is > not rusty, but has been damaged on the right side and has one loose baffle. > > > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/randerson33 at triad.rr.com From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Sat Aug 27 13:23:22 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 14:23:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] To brighten your day... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: thanks!! we all needed that. cheers, jerry On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 12:02 PM, David Porter wrote: > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice > pictures-fun facts-my world > > _____ > > > > > > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXvJ8UquYoo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 27 13:47:05 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 19:47:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Front suspension question In-Reply-To: <20CB82715A114DF9A0ADD96E86A4F0FD@AlanPC> Message-ID: <1398475130.679018.1314474425834.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You won't know if it's bush or king pin wear, or both, until you disassemble (I'm assuming you tested by putting the front A-arms on jackstands and tried to move the top and bottom of the wheel in and out in the vertical to test for looseness?). You can place jackstands securely under the A-arms, lower the front end onto the jackstands and detach the king pin at the trunnion to the shock arm (use four jackstands so the entire weight of the front end is on the springs. and the car is level). Suffice it to say there's a bit of risk; it's safer to drop the springs but I've done it without losing any sleep. I think--haven't done it myself--once you've disassembled the top trunnion the swivel axle will just slide off the king pin (brake calipers, etc. have to come off first). Of course, if the king pins are worn you'll end up having to drop the springs and disassembling the bottom trunnion anyway. Yes, the bushes will have to be pressed-in and reamed, and the grease hole has to be properly aligned. BCS, and maybe other, closer shops can do this for you. There was some problems with replacement king pins for a while, but haven't heard of any lately. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Hi, My front end feels wobbly on the road, there is noticeable movement in the lower swivel pin bush both sides. So it seems like I should go for new bushes. Is it wise to disaassemble the suspension with the floor jack method? Do the bushes need to be reamed? Everything, else feels okay; what should I be looking at, or replace as a matter of course, while it's apart? Thanks, Alan '58 100 6 From kentmclean at comcast.net Sat Aug 27 15:56:04 2011 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 17:56:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sports Car Show in Sweden In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E5967F4.2020602@comcast.net> Magnus Karlsson wrote: > For anyone that might be interested I have just published some photos on my > website from a car show featuring several Healeys. > http://www.concourshealeys.com/hofsnas-sports-car-show-2011/ Wow, a 100S. Nice. I have a soft spot for those Volvo 1800ES wagons. Must... not... look... on... Oh, good. It's an ugly color. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From tappiokie at gmail.com Sat Aug 27 16:48:36 2011 From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:48:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Visit to Denmark & Ireland Message-ID: <4E597444.1020602@gmail.com> I will be in Copenhagen 8/26 - 9/4 and Dublin 9/4 - /12. Anything going on or a driver to meet over here? would love to make some new friends! Jim From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Aug 27 16:54:19 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 17:54:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Sports Car Show in Sweden In-Reply-To: <4E5967F4.2020602@comcast.net> References: <4E5967F4.2020602@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1AEFB3A337E44400933954B12E10BA4B@GregPC> Not to worry Kent, don't like gold? try red http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo-P1800ES-Red-Manual-Restored-1800-P1800-ES-/250878462383?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a698589af if that is too much $$ the white one looks awful tempting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-p1800-ES-sport-wagon-great-mechanical-condition-/270804430571?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f0d33aeeb Always wanted one of those myself. Greg Lemon From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Aug 27 17:46:12 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 07:46:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Sports Car Show in Sweden In-Reply-To: <4E5967F4.2020602@comcast.net> References: <4E5967F4.2020602@comcast.net> Message-ID: That's not ugly.. it's the gold metallic they only put on 4 cars but is now on on every one sold today as "rare color." To be fair, that's more of a golrange color. On 8/28/11, Kent McLean wrote: > Magnus Karlsson wrote: >> For anyone that might be interested I have just published some photos on >> my >> website from a car show featuring several Healeys. >> http://www.concourshealeys.com/hofsnas-sports-car-show-2011/ > > Wow, a 100S. Nice. > > I have a soft spot for those Volvo 1800ES wagons. Must... not... look... > on... > > > > Oh, good. It's an ugly color. > > -- > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From agrossman at pacific.net Sat Aug 27 17:53:59 2011 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 16:53:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front suspension question In-Reply-To: <1398475130.679018.1314474425834.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1398475130.679018.1314474425834.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <7A2370A6E7294883A243FB0ADBE12C5B@AlanPC> "You won't know if it's bush or kingpin..." Yeah, but I can hope it's the bush ;-> Thanks for the replys, Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Spidell To: Alan Grossman Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 12:47 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front suspension question You won't know if it's bush or king pin wear, or both, until you disassemble (I'm assuming you tested by putting the front A-arms on jackstands and tried to move the top and bottom of the wheel in and out in the vertical to test for looseness?). You can place jackstands securely under the A-arms, lower the front end onto the jackstands and detach the king pin at the trunnion to the shock arm (use four jackstands so the entire weight of the front end is on the springs. and the car is level). Suffice it to say there's a bit of risk; it's safer to drop the springs but I've done it without losing any sleep. I think--haven't done it myself--once you've disassembled the top trunnion the swivel axle will just slide off the king pin (brake calipers, etc. have to come off first). Of course, if the king pins are worn you'll end up having to drop the springs and disassembling the bottom trunnion anyway. Yes, the bushes will have to be pressed-in and reamed, and the grease hole has to be properly aligned. BCS, and maybe other, closer shops can do this for you. There was some problems with replacement king pins for a while, but haven't heard of any lately. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Hi, My front end feels wobbly on the road, there is noticeable movement in the lower swivel pin bush both sides. So it seems like I should go for new bushes. Is it wise to disaassemble the suspension with the floor jack method? Do the bushes need to be reamed? Everything, else feels okay; what should I be looking at, or replace as a matter of course, while it's apart? Thanks, Alan '58 100 6 From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Aug 27 18:56:38 2011 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 20:56:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front suspension question Message-ID: <20110827.175734.6391.94442@mailpop05.dca.untd.com> Sure, go ahead and blame Bush. Everyone else does!! (smirk). > "You won't know if it's bush or kingpin..." > > Yeah, but I can hope it's the bush ;-> > > Thanks for the replys, Alan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: Alan Grossman > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 12:47 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front suspension question > > > You won't know if it's bush or king pin wear, or both, until you > disassemble > (I'm assuming you tested by putting the front A-arms on jackstands > and tried > to move the top and bottom of the wheel in and out in the vertical > to test for > looseness?). > > You can place jackstands securely under the A-arms, lower the > front end onto > the jackstands and detach the king pin at the trunnion to the shock > arm (use > four jackstands so the entire weight of the front end is on the > springs. and > the car is level). Suffice it to say there's a bit of risk; it's > safer to > drop the springs but I've done it without losing any sleep. I > think--haven't > done it myself--once you've disassembled the top trunnion the swivel > axle will > just slide off the king pin (brake calipers, etc. have to come off > first). Of > course, if the king pins are worn you'll end up having to drop the > springs and > disassembling the bottom trunnion anyway. > > Yes, the bushes will have to be pressed-in and reamed, and the > grease hole > has to be properly aligned. BCS, and maybe other, closer shops can > do this > for you. There was some problems with replacement king pins for a > while, but > haven't heard of any lately. > > Bob > > > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > - > > > Hi, > My front end feels wobbly on the road, there is noticeable > movement in the > lower swivel pin bush both sides. So it seems like I should go for > new > bushes. > > Is it wise to disaassemble the suspension with the floor jack > method? > > Do the bushes need to be reamed? > > Everything, else feels okay; what should I be looking at, or > replace as a > matter of course, while it's apart? > > Thanks, Alan > > '58 100 6 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 3000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e5992b79a0029fb5e2st05duc From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 27 20:58:15 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 19:58:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive adaptor plate studs In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110827102454.0203c610@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110827102454.0203c610@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2493599B-576D-44EC-B869-46D8B7D9D2A1@sbcglobal.net> John, we have some used plates that have the studs in them. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com On Aug 27, 2011, at 10:26 AM, john spaur wrote: > Does anyone know of a source for the overdrive adaptor plate studs? The are 5/16" x 24 TPI on both ends. > > Thanks, > John > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 27 21:01:51 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 20:01:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <004101cc6526$da7009c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net><003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net><000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net><33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net><4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> <004101cc6526$da7009c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: At one time he was making a good product at a much better price than any other suppliers. Moss has now come out with a new tank that is of excellent quality. I have installed a couple in the last couple of months. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com On Aug 27, 2011, at 7:04 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > David, I thought you were a Moss believer, what happened to your > allegiance? > > The Moss tank that I purchased for my 3000 a few years ago was perfect aren't the 4 tanks the same quality? > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock" > To: "Oudesluys" > Cc: "Forum Lista" > Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 11:17 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel tanks > > >> All the recent tanks that I have received recently looked liked they were >> straightened with a sledge hammer. The vertical sides were not square. The >> front and rear sides were not bowed so the straps would not reach. I returned >> all of them. >> >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> Stockton Ca >> www.britishcarspecialists.com > _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Aug 27 23:13:47 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 13:13:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> Message-ID: Ron - The steel tanks sold by Moss (and BCS) are a perfect copy of the factory tank and fit right in. They are only a couple hundred bucks and will last a lifetime (well my lifetime at least). I'd start there, Moss is starting to carry some decent quality stuff these days (here and there!). Alan On 8/27/11, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel tanks sold > by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. > Any comments would be appreciated. > Thanks. > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Aug 27 23:16:14 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 13:16:14 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> Message-ID: Incidentally, I bought the moss tank to replace the cheapo Mexi-tank I bought for my BJ8 about 20 years ago from the old Austin Healey Store in LA. That thing was a rust trap! On 8/28/11, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Ron - > > The steel tanks sold by Moss (and BCS) are a perfect copy of the > factory tank and fit right in. They are only a couple hundred bucks > and will last a lifetime (well my lifetime at least). > > I'd start there, Moss is starting to carry some decent quality stuff > these days (here and there!). > > Alan > > > On 8/27/11, Ron Ray wrote: >> Folks, >> >> A friend has asked if anyone has any experience with steel fuel tanks >> sold >> by angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. >> Any comments would be appreciated. >> Thanks. >> Ron >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > -- Sent from my mobile device From kentmclean at comcast.net Sun Aug 28 04:46:38 2011 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 06:46:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sports Car Show in Sweden In-Reply-To: <1AEFB3A337E44400933954B12E10BA4B@GregPC> References: <4E5967F4.2020602@comcast.net> <1AEFB3A337E44400933954B12E10BA4B@GregPC> Message-ID: <4E5A1C8E.80207@comcast.net> Greg Lemon wrote: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo-P1800ES-Red-Manual-Restored-1800-P1800-ES-/250878462383?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a698589af > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-p1800-ES-sport-wagon-great-mechanical-condition-/270804430571?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f0d33aeeb You are not helping. But that white one sounds solid, needing just an interior. Hmmmmmmmmmmm... Alan Seigrist wrote: > That's not ugly.. it's the gold metallic they only put on 4 cars but > is now on on every one sold today as "rare color." Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And with a rainbow of colors to choose from, that color is a deal breaker for me. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From warthodson at aol.com Sun Aug 28 07:48:16 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 09:48:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box Message-ID: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> Does anyone have a cleaver way of replacing the rubber weather seal on the shaft of the wiper wheel box & what did you replace it with? Also, FYI, we recently purchased a reproduction wiper wheel box which appeared to be of very good quality. However, the O.D. of the serrated adaptor on the end that accepts the wiper arm was slightly undersized. This prevented the original wiper arm from seating tightly & it would not stay locked in place. So, We purchased reproduction wiper arms hoping that they would fit tightly. No luck. Their I.D. was even larger that the original wiper arms, so they fit even looser. Gary From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Sun Aug 28 08:32:17 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 09:32:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: keep using rain-x, it was invented for british cars. cheers, jerry On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 8:48 AM, wrote: > Does anyone have a cleaver way of replacing the rubber weather seal on the > shaft of the wiper wheel box & what did you replace it with? > > Also, FYI, we recently purchased a reproduction wiper wheel box which > appeared > to be of very good quality. However, the O.D. of the serrated adaptor on > the > end that accepts the wiper arm was slightly undersized. This prevented the > original wiper arm from seating tightly & it would not stay locked in > place. > So, We purchased reproduction wiper arms hoping that they would fit > tightly. > No luck. Their I.D. was even larger that the original wiper arms, so they > fit > even looser. > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Sun Aug 28 08:38:18 2011 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 09:38:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Visit to Denmark & Ireland In-Reply-To: <4E597444.1020602@gmail.com> References: <4E597444.1020602@gmail.com> Message-ID: hi jim. try faacebook if you need some new friends. cheers, jerry On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 5:48 PM, Jim Cox wrote: > I will be in Copenhagen 8/26 - 9/4 and Dublin 9/4 - /12. Anything going on > or a driver to meet over here? would love to make some new friends! Jim > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@**gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun Aug 28 10:00:29 2011 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 16:00:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?healey_tanks?= Message-ID: <20110828160029.16172.qmail@server278.com> have put a couple of the moss tanks in club members cars in the last six months. no problems. fit nice and look very original. hjim From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 28 11:50:30 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 19:50:30 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4E5A7FE6.7060107@chello.nl> Use nano coatings/products for windows from the building trade. Better and far cheaper. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From raymead at comcast.net Sun Aug 28 13:12:33 2011 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 19:12:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Haynes workshop manual for 100/6 & 3000 for sale Message-ID: <1431323065.605691.1314558753358.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> hi all I have a nice copy of the A.H. 100/6 & 3000 Haynes Owner's Workshop Manual for sale. If you are interested, please contact me off-line. tks, ray From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 28 12:47:54 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 11:47:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110828114512.020771c0@pop.att.yahoo.com> If you are talking about the seal under the part of the wiper blade are where it attaches to the shaft that pokes through the shroud I went to the hardware store and purchased some door stop bumpers and cut them to fit. I have not operated the car so I don't know how they will hold up. John At 09:48 AM 8/28/2011 -0400, warthodson at aol.com wrote: >Does anyone have a cleaver way of replacing the rubber weather seal on the >shaft of the wiper wheel box & what did you replace it with? From bighealey3k at aim.com Sun Aug 28 14:13:28 2011 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 16:13:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> I think Gary is talking about the seal that is on the shaft that passes through the wheel box housing and has the serrated hub that the wiper arm attaches to. It is a weather seal that keep water from seeping down through the wheel box and dripping into the passenger compartment, namely on your leg while driving in a rain storm. I too have wondered if this can be replaced. It looks like a small diameter rubber tubing sleeve that seals the area between the wiper shaft and the wheel house housing. One of mine is split part way down the side of the rubber sleeve. Driver's side of course. :-( Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: warthodson To: healeys Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 9:51 am Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box Does anyone have a cleaver way of replacing the rubber weather seal on the haft of the wiper wheel box & what did you replace it with? Also, FYI, we recently purchased a reproduction wiper wheel box which appeared o be of very good quality. However, the O.D. of the serrated adaptor on the nd that accepts the wiper arm was slightly undersized. This prevented the riginal wiper arm from seating tightly & it would not stay locked in place. o, We purchased reproduction wiper arms hoping that they would fit tightly. o luck. Their I.D. was even larger that the original wiper arms, so they fit ven looser. ary ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From info at classictradespace.com Sun Aug 28 14:40:00 2011 From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 21:40:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale Message-ID: <6B2307BC61634B189A1B5D9232F5F8CD@WORLDCARS> we have a nice 1957 100/6 for sale if any one has interest email m and i will send details. From jagxk120 at gmail.com Sun Aug 28 14:52:57 2011 From: jagxk120 at gmail.com (Bob) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 22:52:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <6B2307BC61634B189A1B5D9232F5F8CD@WORLDCARS> References: <6B2307BC61634B189A1B5D9232F5F8CD@WORLDCARS> Message-ID: <4E5AAAA9.2060306@gmail.com> Is the list for trade ads? B Le 28/08/11 22:40, classic trade space a icrit : > we have a nice 1957 100/6 for sale if any one has interest email m and i will > send details. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sun Aug 28 15:08:14 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 23:08:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <4E5AAAA9.2060306@gmail.com> References: <6B2307BC61634B189A1B5D9232F5F8CD@WORLDCARS> <4E5AAAA9.2060306@gmail.com> Message-ID: NO! Derek On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Bob wrote: > Is the list for trade ads? > B > > > Le 28/08/11 22:40, classic trade space a icrit : > >> we have a nice 1957 100/6 for sale if any one has interest email m and i >> will >> send details. >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/jagxk120@**gmail.com >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 28 15:18:57 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 23:18:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4E5AB0C1.6060107@chello.nl> In the past I used some valve stem seal on a rear wiper of an old Renault 4. It was quite succesful. Problem is probably to find the right size for your application. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From warthodson at aol.com Sun Aug 28 16:51:07 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 18:51:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CE33EC1BC3C53B-2AE0-4038B@webmail-m133.sysops.aol.com> Yes, that is the part I am talking about & that is the leak we wanted to stop by replacing the seal. What makes replacing the seal difficult is that the serrated hub is too large to stretch most any sleeve type weather seal over. Also, the serrated hub is very difficult to remove without damaging it because it is made of some brittle metal (pot metal?). We ended up driving the gear off the other end of the shaft so we could remove the shaft & install a "home made" seal by using a valve stem seal. The problem with this approached was that the shaft is serrated to hold on the gear & the serrations are larger O.D. than the I.D. of the bushing in which the shaft rotates. I was sure someone would have a more professional solution to this dilemma. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: warthodson ; healeys healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 3:13 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box I think Gary is talking about the seal that is on the shaft that passes through the wheel box housing and has the serrated hub that the wiper arm attaches to. It is a weather seal that keep water from seeping down through the wheel box and dripping into the passenger compartment, namely on your leg while driving in a rain storm. I too have wondered if this can be replaced. It looks like a small diameter rubber tubing sleeve that seals the area between the wiper shaft and the wheel house housing. One of mine is split part way down the side of the rubber sleeve. Driver's side of course. :-( Larry '67 BJ8 From warthodson at aol.com Sun Aug 28 17:11:33 2011 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 19:11:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <4E5AB0C1.6060107@chello.nl> References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> <4E5AB0C1.6060107@chello.nl> Message-ID: <8CE33EEF6461900-2AE0-40DA8@webmail-m133.sysops.aol.com> Actually, the problem is figuring out how to get it on the shaft since the serrated hub is in the way. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys To: Larry Wendland Cc: warthodson ; healeys Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 4:19 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In the past I used some valve stem seal on a rear wiper of an old enault 4. It was quite succesful. roblem is probably to find the right size for your application. ees Oudesluijs L From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sun Aug 28 18:55:10 2011 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 20:55:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <8CE33EC1BC3C53B-2AE0-4038B@webmail-m133.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> <8CE33EC1BC3C53B-2AE0-4038B@webmail-m133.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4E5AE36E.40504@htcnet.org> And why is this a problem? Isn't part of the appeal of a British sport car is, if you get caught in a rainstorm, which hopefully you avoid whenever possible, your pants get wet.;) John 2 leaky BJ8s On 8/28/2011 6:51 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Yes, that is the part I am talking about& that is the leak we wanted to stop > by replacing the seal. What makes replacing the seal difficult is that the > serrated hub is too large to stretch most any sleeve type weather seal over. > Also, the serrated hub is very difficult to remove without damaging it because > it is made of some brittle metal (pot metal?). We ended up driving the gear > off the other end of the shaft so we could remove the shaft& install a "home > made" seal by using a valve stem seal. The problem with this approached was > that the shaft is serrated to hold on the gear& the serrations are larger > O.D. than the I.D. of the bushing in which the shaft rotates. I was sure > someone would have a more professional solution to this dilemma. > Gary > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Larry Wendland > To: warthodson; healeys healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 3:13 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box > > > I think Gary is talking about the seal that is on the shaft that passes > through the wheel box housing and has the serrated hub that the wiper arm > attaches to. It is a weather seal that keep water from seeping down through > the wheel box and dripping into the passenger compartment, namely on your leg > while driving in a rain storm. I too have wondered if this can be replaced. > It looks like a small diameter rubber tubing sleeve that seals the area > between the wiper shaft and the wheel house housing. One of mine is split > part way down the side of the rubber sleeve. Driver's side of course. :-( > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > He From pennell at cox.net Sun Aug 28 19:26:18 2011 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 21:26:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <4E5AE36E.40504@htcnet.org> Message-ID: <20110828212618.06JHE.1552897.imail@eastrmwml31> Dunno about that but my pants got wet during some of the gusts of Irene! ---- John Vrugtman wrote: > And why is this a problem? Isn't part of the appeal of a British sport > car is, if you get caught in a rainstorm, which > hopefully you avoid whenever possible, your pants get wet.;) > > John > 2 leaky BJ8s > > On 8/28/2011 6:51 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > > Yes, that is the part I am talking about& that is the leak we wanted to stop > > by replacing the seal. What makes replacing the seal difficult is that the > > serrated hub is too large to stretch most any sleeve type weather seal over. > > Also, the serrated hub is very difficult to remove without damaging it because > > it is made of some brittle metal (pot metal?). We ended up driving the gear > > off the other end of the shaft so we could remove the shaft& install a "home > > made" seal by using a valve stem seal. The problem with this approached was > > that the shaft is serrated to hold on the gear& the serrations are larger > > O.D. than the I.D. of the bushing in which the shaft rotates. I was sure > > someone would have a more professional solution to this dilemma. > > Gary > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Larry Wendland > > To: warthodson; healeys healeys at autox.team.net > > Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 3:13 pm > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box > > > > > > I think Gary is talking about the seal that is on the shaft that passes > > through the wheel box housing and has the serrated hub that the wiper arm > > attaches to. It is a weather seal that keep water from seeping down through > > the wheel box and dripping into the passenger compartment, namely on your leg > > while driving in a rain storm. I too have wondered if this can be replaced. > > It looks like a small diameter rubber tubing sleeve that seals the area > > between the wiper shaft and the wheel house housing. One of mine is split > > part way down the side of the rubber sleeve. Driver's side of course. :-( > > > > Larry > > '67 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > > He > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Aug 28 19:52:53 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 18:52:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: <4E5AE36E.40504@htcnet.org> References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> <8CE33EC1BC3C53B-2AE0-4038B@webmail-m133.sysops.aol.com> <4E5AE36E.40504@htcnet.org> Message-ID: Are you that afraid of rain? ;) On Aug 28, 2011 5:57 PM, "John Vrugtman" wrote: > And why is this a problem? Isn't part of the appeal of a British sport > car is, if you get caught in a rainstorm, which > hopefully you avoid whenever possible, your pants get wet.;) > > John > 2 leaky BJ8s > > On 8/28/2011 6:51 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: >> Yes, that is the part I am talking about& that is the leak we wanted to stop >> by replacing the seal. What makes replacing the seal difficult is that the >> serrated hub is too large to stretch most any sleeve type weather seal over. >> Also, the serrated hub is very difficult to remove without damaging it because >> it is made of some brittle metal (pot metal?). We ended up driving the gear >> off the other end of the shaft so we could remove the shaft& install a "home >> made" seal by using a valve stem seal. The problem with this approached was >> that the shaft is serrated to hold on the gear& the serrations are larger >> O.D. than the I.D. of the bushing in which the shaft rotates. I was sure >> someone would have a more professional solution to this dilemma. >> Gary >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Larry Wendland >> To: warthodson; healeys healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 3:13 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box >> >> >> I think Gary is talking about the seal that is on the shaft that passes >> through the wheel box housing and has the serrated hub that the wiper arm >> attaches to. It is a weather seal that keep water from seeping down through >> the wheel box and dripping into the passenger compartment, namely on your leg >> while driving in a rain storm. I too have wondered if this can be replaced. >> It looks like a small diameter rubber tubing sleeve that seals the area >> between the wiper shaft and the wheel house housing. One of mine is split >> part way down the side of the rubber sleeve. Driver's side of course. :-( >> >> Larry >> '67 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> He > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From pennell at cox.net Sun Aug 28 19:57:31 2011 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 21:57:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20110828215731.2RUFO.1553214.imail@eastrmwml31> No. Gusts. ---- i erbs wrote: > Are you that afraid of rain? ;) > > On Aug 28, 2011 5:57 PM, "John Vrugtman" wrote: > > And why is this a problem? Isn't part of the appeal of a British sport > > car is, if you get caught in a rainstorm, which > > hopefully you avoid whenever possible, your pants get wet.;) > > > > John > > 2 leaky BJ8s > > > > On 8/28/2011 6:51 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > >> Yes, that is the part I am talking about& that is the leak we wanted to > stop > >> by replacing the seal. What makes replacing the seal difficult is that > the > >> serrated hub is too large to stretch most any sleeve type weather seal > over. > >> Also, the serrated hub is very difficult to remove without damaging it > because > >> it is made of some brittle metal (pot metal?). We ended up driving the > gear > >> off the other end of the shaft so we could remove the shaft& install a > "home > >> made" seal by using a valve stem seal. The problem with this approached > was > >> that the shaft is serrated to hold on the gear& the serrations are larger > >> O.D. than the I.D. of the bushing in which the shaft rotates. I was sure > >> someone would have a more professional solution to this dilemma. > >> Gary > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Larry Wendland > >> To: warthodson; healeys healeys at autox.team.net > >> Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 3:13 pm > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box > >> > >> > >> I think Gary is talking about the seal that is on the shaft that passes > >> through the wheel box housing and has the serrated hub that the wiper arm > >> attaches to. It is a weather seal that keep water from seeping down > through > >> the wheel box and dripping into the passenger compartment, namely on your > leg > >> while driving in a rain storm. I too have wondered if this can be > replaced. > >> It looks like a small diameter rubber tubing sleeve that seals the area > >> between the wiper shaft and the wheel house housing. One of mine is split > >> part way down the side of the rubber sleeve. Driver's side of course. :-( > >> > >> Larry > >> '67 BJ8 > >> _______________________________________________ > >> He > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 28 20:56:00 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 22:56:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box References: <8CE33A04589B4EC-1D3C-155F2@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> <8CE33D61575589B-C34-24E9E@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <002001cc65f7$303a0ce0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> So thats where that water is coming from. Thanks list. But your too darn late. I just use one of my Depends on my knee when it rains. You should never leave home without a couple of these in your trunk. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Wendland" To: ; Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 4:13 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box >I think Gary is talking about the seal that is on the shaft that passes > through the wheel box housing and has the serrated hub that the wiper arm > attaches to. It is a weather seal that keep water from seeping down > through > the wheel box and dripping into the passenger compartment, namely on your > leg > while driving in a rain storm. I too have wondered if this can be > replaced. > It looks like a small diameter rubber tubing sleeve that seals the area > between the wiper shaft and the wheel house housing. One of mine is split > part way down the side of the rubber sleeve. Driver's side of course. :-( > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: warthodson > To: healeys > Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 9:51 am > Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box > > > Does anyone have a cleaver way of replacing the rubber weather seal on the > haft of the wiper wheel box & what did you replace it with? > Also, FYI, we recently purchased a reproduction wiper wheel box which > appeared > o be of very good quality. However, the O.D. of the serrated adaptor on > the > nd that accepts the wiper arm was slightly undersized. This prevented the > riginal wiper arm from seating tightly & it would not stay locked in > place. > o, We purchased reproduction wiper arms hoping that they would fit > tightly. > o luck. Their I.D. was even larger that the original wiper arms, so they > fit > ven looser. > ary > ______________________________________________ > ealeys at autox.team.net > onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > uggested annual donation $12.75 > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 28 20:59:29 2011 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 22:59:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wiper wheel box References: <20110828215731.2RUFO.1553214.imail@eastrmwml31> Message-ID: <003101cc65f7$ac93b2f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Would a piece of heat shrink tubing be of any help? Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "i erbs" ; "John Vrugtman" Cc: Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 9:57 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box > No. Gusts. > > ---- i erbs wrote: >> Are you that afraid of rain? ;) >> >> On Aug 28, 2011 5:57 PM, "John Vrugtman" wrote: >> > And why is this a problem? Isn't part of the appeal of a British sport >> > car is, if you get caught in a rainstorm, which >> > hopefully you avoid whenever possible, your pants get wet.;) >> > >> > John >> > 2 leaky BJ8s >> > >> > On 8/28/2011 6:51 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: >> >> Yes, that is the part I am talking about& that is the leak we wanted >> >> to >> stop >> >> by replacing the seal. What makes replacing the seal difficult is that >> the >> >> serrated hub is too large to stretch most any sleeve type weather seal >> over. >> >> Also, the serrated hub is very difficult to remove without damaging it >> because >> >> it is made of some brittle metal (pot metal?). We ended up driving the >> gear >> >> off the other end of the shaft so we could remove the shaft& install a >> "home >> >> made" seal by using a valve stem seal. The problem with this >> >> approached >> was >> >> that the shaft is serrated to hold on the gear& the serrations are >> >> larger >> >> O.D. than the I.D. of the bushing in which the shaft rotates. I was >> >> sure >> >> someone would have a more professional solution to this dilemma. >> >> Gary >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: Larry Wendland >> >> To: warthodson; healeys healeys at autox.team.net >> >> Sent: Sun, Aug 28, 2011 3:13 pm >> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper wheel box >> >> >> >> >> >> I think Gary is talking about the seal that is on the shaft that >> >> passes >> >> through the wheel box housing and has the serrated hub that the wiper >> >> arm >> >> attaches to. It is a weather seal that keep water from seeping down >> through >> >> the wheel box and dripping into the passenger compartment, namely on >> >> your >> leg >> >> while driving in a rain storm. I too have wondered if this can be >> replaced. >> >> It looks like a small diameter rubber tubing sleeve that seals the >> >> area >> >> between the wiper shaft and the wheel house housing. One of mine is >> >> split >> >> part way down the side of the rubber sleeve. Driver's side of course. >> >> :-( >> >> >> >> Larry >> >> '67 BJ8 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> He >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 29 08:24:52 2011 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 09:24:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net> <003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net> <000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net> <33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net> <4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> Message-ID: <006201cc6657$77ba55b0$672f0110$@net> As a follow up, my friend elected to purchase (for more money) a fuel tank from a source other than angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. My friend reported that Jorge's attitude was horrible when it came to answering questions regarding the quality of the fuel tank and the return policy. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 10:18 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: Forum Lista Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel tanks All the recent tanks that I have received recently looked liked they were straightened with a sledge hammer. The vertical sides were not square. The front and rear sides were not bowed so the straps would not reach. I returned all of them. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com On Aug 27, 2011, at 12:03 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > In my view the damage shown in the pictures must have been caused during > transport or storage as the impressed ridges are also bend, which would > not have happened during manufacturing/welding. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Aug 29 08:41:42 2011 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:41:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tanks In-Reply-To: <006201cc6657$77ba55b0$672f0110$@net> References: <7FD760B3-8858-444B-B7B2-1E66A4E8708A@franciscovich.net><003001cc6413$3cca5130$b65ef390$@net><000001cc645d$cc811710$65834530$@net><33AC7BF7-F234-41F5-ACC4-94DB77512751@cox.net><4E5896AB.8000507@chello.nl> <006201cc6657$77ba55b0$672f0110$@net> Message-ID: <7D24FB3633E64276AF65E57F3B2A0DA7@oscar> I had to have Jorge's panel beater fab an entire rear end and fenders for a Jag XK150 DH. Several errors were made but, he was, in the end an honest guy to deal with. Mind that's been nearly 10 years ago. The long and short was he got it done and made it much easier than shipping from the UK.. YRMV :~) DaveP frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Ray Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 8:25 AM To: 'David Nock'; 'Oudesluys' Cc: 'Forum Lista' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel tanks As a follow up, my friend elected to purchase (for more money) a fuel tank from a source other than angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. My friend reported that Jorge's attitude was horrible when it came to answering questions regarding the quality of the fuel tank and the return policy. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 10:18 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: Forum Lista Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel tanks All the recent tanks that I have received recently looked liked they were straightened with a sledge hammer. The vertical sides were not square. The front and rear sides were not bowed so the straps would not reach. I returned all of them. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com On Aug 27, 2011, at 12:03 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > In my view the damage shown in the pictures must have been caused during > transport or storage as the impressed ridges are also bend, which would > not have happened during manufacturing/welding. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 29 09:34:27 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:34:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: References: <6B2307BC61634B189A1B5D9232F5F8CD@WORLDCARS> <4E5AAAA9.2060306@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6E289D9D-EAFF-42D9-92BC-66B48890E64A@sbcglobal.net> What is wrong with the way he did it. No different than some of the stupid Friday funnies that have nothing to do with a LBC. As well as the other misc things that are posted on this list that have nothing to do with a Healey. If it is information that you can use to better the marque or get another Healey on the road whats the big deal. You have a button on the keyboard labeled DELETE use it if it isnt of your interest. On Aug 28, 2011, at 2:08 PM, Derek Job wrote: > NO! > > Derek > > On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Bob wrote: > >> Is the list for trade ads? >> B >> >> >> Le 28/08/11 22:40, classic trade space a icrit : >> >>> we have a nice 1957 100/6 for sale if any one has interest email >>> m and i >>> will >>> send details. >>> ______________________________**_________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html>> donate.html> >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >>> options/healeys/jagxk120@**gmail.com>> mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com> >>> >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html> donate.html> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com> mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From davzu29 at cox.net Mon Aug 29 10:26:37 2011 From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:26:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Turn signals Message-ID: <7F60DFE7FB4349409A78801B4A3AEC9F@ORGANIZA79207D> I checked the archives, but didn't see anything quite like my problem. I have a BJ8 with a turn signal challenge. When I moved the trafficator lever I had no illumination of any turn signal light on the car. I checked the turn signal canister and had current going in, but none coming out. On top of that, the cannister got hot. Feeling hopeful, I got a new cannister and now the lights on each respective side goes on when they should, but they don't blink. I get continuous current to each light. Is my new cannister bad? One added pain, when the signals were working, my turn indicator lamps on the dash would blink about 3 times, then would go out. TIA David Z. From raymead at comcast.net Mon Aug 29 10:42:13 2011 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 16:42:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <6E289D9D-EAFF-42D9-92BC-66B48890E64A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <150697714.642712.1314636133258.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> for what it is worth, i concur................. ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock" To: "Derek Job" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 11:34:27 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale What is wrong with the way he did it. No different than some of the B stupid Friday funnies that have nothing to do with a LBC. As well as B the other misc things that are posted on this list that have nothing B to do with a Healey. If it is information that you can use to better the marque or get B another Healey on the road whats the big deal. You have a button on the keyboard labeled DELETE use it if it isnt of B your interest. On Aug 28, 2011, at 2:08 PM, Derek Job wrote: > NO! > > Derek > > On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Bob wrote: > >> Is the list for trade ads? >> B >> >> >> Le 28/08/11 22:40, classic trade space a icrit : >> >>> B we have a nice 1957 100/6 for sale if any one has interest email B >>> m and i >>> will >>> send details. >>> ______________________________**_________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html>> donate.html> >>> Suggested annual donation B $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >>> options/healeys/jagxk120@**gmail.com>> mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com> >>> >> B ______________________________**_________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html> donate.html> >> Suggested annual donation B $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com> mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation B $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/raymead at comcast.net From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Mon Aug 29 10:53:17 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:53:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Turn signals In-Reply-To: <7F60DFE7FB4349409A78801B4A3AEC9F@ORGANIZA79207D> References: <7F60DFE7FB4349409A78801B4A3AEC9F@ORGANIZA79207D> Message-ID: Check/clean earth points in the system. Gergo 2011/8/29 David Z > I checked the archives, but didn't see anything quite like my problem. I > have > a BJ8 with a turn signal challenge. When I moved the trafficator lever I > had > no illumination of any turn signal light on the car. I checked the turn > signal canister and had current going in, but none coming out. On top of > that, > the cannister got hot. Feeling hopeful, I got a new cannister and now the > lights on each respective side goes on when they should, but they don't > blink. > I get continuous current to each light. Is my new cannister bad? One added > pain, when the signals were working, my turn indicator lamps on the dash > would > blink about 3 times, then would go out. > TIA > David Z. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From info at classictradespace.com Mon Aug 29 11:16:59 2011 From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:16:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale Message-ID: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> Thank you Derek i totally agree, i have been on the list for some time now and receive all the messages daily, i often see people posting messages regarding healeys for sale, i was offered the car by one of our customers and simply thought i would post it incase any one on the list had any interest, no financial gain on my part. What i find really hard to under stand is the group is totally Austin Healey orientated and some one mentions that there is a Healey for sale and this is so wrong, i just dont get it. There really is some sad people out there, it very much reminds me of some of the idiots you get on ebay that really should not be on the site, the same applies to those who feel the need to jump so quickly on here when they see something they think is wrong, Like the last post said on your key board is a DELETE BUTTON use it. I dare not mention i have a shed full of rare 100 M parts for sale i might get it in the Neck... From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 29 11:42:21 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 19:42:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Turn signals In-Reply-To: <7F60DFE7FB4349409A78801B4A3AEC9F@ORGANIZA79207D> References: <7F60DFE7FB4349409A78801B4A3AEC9F@ORGANIZA79207D> Message-ID: <4E5BCF7D.6020508@chello.nl> The battery is probably a bit low. The indicator lights only start blinking when the voltage is well over 12V. A very common problem on UK cars of the period. Check a good earth as well. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From rjswain at hotmail.com Mon Aug 29 11:47:35 2011 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:47:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival Message-ID: We're leaving for a vacation in England next week. Highlight for me is the Goodwood Revival. Anybody else on the list going to be there? Perhaps we could arrange to meet up. I won't be driving my Healey but I have rented (hired) a Morgan 4/4 from the factory. Rick'59 BN4 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 29 11:48:14 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 13:48:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> References: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> Message-ID: <001001cc6673$d3c447f0$7b4cd7d0$@net> I'll be the first to say that I don't want this list to become a common "want ad" and "for sale" listing, but I have no problem with something noted to be for sale and to list a contact number or email for further information. After all, if it helps the cause of getting somebody a car or part they need, why not? Rich Chrysler From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 29 12:00:11 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:00:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> Message-ID: <1428783967.743383.1314640811848.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: " i have been on the list for some time now and receive all the messages daily" I think that's the problem. I don't recall you posting to the List before and it wasn't clear that this wasn't commercial spam (looked like it to me). Something like this would have probably have elicited few, if any complaints: "Hi, One of our customers has a car for sale and I offered to pass it on to an emailing list of Healey enthusiasts. I have no financial interest in this car; just doing a friend a favor." When our regular posters that happens to be in the business comes across some NOS or rare parts and notifies the List most seem OK with that. Sending a 'Special Sale' email every Friday would not be OK. The 'shed full of 100M parts' chaser is OK in my book. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "classic trade space" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 10:16:59 AM Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale Thank you Derek i totally agree, i have been on the list for some time now and receive all the messages daily, i often see people posting messages regarding healeys for sale, i was offered the car by one of our customers and simply thought i would post it incase any one on the list had any interest, no financial gain on my part. What i find really hard to under stand is the group is totally Austin Healey orientated and some one mentions that there is a Healey for sale and this is so wrong, i just dont get it. There really is some sad people out there, it very much reminds me of some of the idiots you get on ebay that really should not be on the site, the same applies to those who feel the need to jump so quickly on here when they see something they think is wrong, Like the last post said on your key board is a DELETE BUTTON use it. I dare not mention i have a shed full of rare 100 M parts for sale i might get it in the Neck... From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon Aug 29 12:02:56 2011 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:02:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Rick, On 10th/11th September there is the Beaulieu Autojumble in the New Forest close to Southampton and not far from Goodwood. This autojumble you should not miss as it is the biggest in Europe and nearly all European British car enthusiasts come together to this event. It is huge and I think you can`t make it in one day. Only you may not get any overnight accommodation in an area of 50 miles around Beaulieu as all available beds are booked. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rick Swain Gesendet: Montag, 29. August 2011 19:48 An: Healey List Betreff: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival We're leaving for a vacation in England next week. Highlight for me is the Goodwood Revival. Anybody else on the list going to be there? Perhaps we could arrange to meet up. I won't be driving my Healey but I have rented (hired) a Morgan 4/4 from the factory. Rick'59 BN4 From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Aug 29 12:44:58 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:44:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <1428783967.743383.1314640811848.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> <1428783967.743383.1314640811848.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: My understanding is that the list is not to be used for professional advertising. Members notifying others of a car for sale that they could recommend is ok. Ditto for parts For instance, there are websites based in England that generally have at least 50 or more Austin Healeys for sale but I wouldn't want them to be constantly updating the list with that info. Derek On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 8:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > re: " i have been on the list for some time now and receive all the > messages daily" > > I think that's the problem. I don't recall you posting to the List before > and it wasn't clear that this wasn't commercial spam (looked like it to me). > > Something like this would have probably have elicited few, if any > complaints: > > "Hi, One of our customers has a car for sale and I offered to pass it on to > an emailing list of Healey enthusiasts. I have no financial interest in this > car; just doing a friend a favor." > > When our regular posters that happens to be in the business comes across > some NOS or rare parts and notifies the List most seem OK with that. Sending > a 'Special Sale' email every Friday would not be OK. The 'shed full of 100M > parts' chaser is OK in my book. > > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "classic trade space" > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 10:16:59 AM > Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale > > Thank you Derek i totally agree, i have been on the list for some time now > and > receive all the messages daily, i often see people posting messages > regarding > healeys for sale, i was offered the car by one of our customers and simply > thought i would post it incase any one on the list had any interest, no > financial gain on my part. What i find really hard to under stand is the > group > is totally Austin Healey orientated and some one mentions that there is a > Healey for sale and this is so wrong, i just dont get it. There really is > some > sad people out there, it very much reminds me of some of the idiots you get > on > ebay that really should not be on the site, the same applies to those who > feel > the need to jump so quickly on here when they see something they think is > wrong, Like the last post said on your key board is a DELETE BUTTON use it. > > I dare not mention i have a shed full of rare 100 M parts for sale i might > get > it in the Neck... > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 29 12:42:37 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 11:42:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive adaptor plate studs In-Reply-To: <2493599B-576D-44EC-B869-46D8B7D9D2A1@sbcglobal.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110827102454.0203c610@pop.att.yahoo.com> <2493599B-576D-44EC-B869-46D8B7D9D2A1@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110829114142.02087ab8@pop.att.yahoo.com> David, I found a mild steel bolt and fabricated a stud. Thank you, John At 07:58 PM 8/27/2011 -0700, David Nock wrote: >John, we have some used plates that have the studs in them. >David Nock >British Car Specialists >Stockton Ca >www.britishcarspecialists.com > >On Aug 27, 2011, at 10:26 AM, john spaur wrote: > > Does anyone know of a source for the overdrive adaptor plate > studs? The are 5/16" x 24 TPI on both ends. > > John From jagxk120 at gmail.com Mon Aug 29 13:13:12 2011 From: jagxk120 at gmail.com (Bob) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:13:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> References: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> Message-ID: <4E5BE4C8.7060708@gmail.com> My initial question was simply naive. I know people post personal ads, but this one was from a trade. If that's OK with everybody, it's OK with me. A matter of etiquette, that's all. Is there a list owner BTW? B Le 29/08/11 19:16, classic trade space a icrit : > Thank you Derek i totally agree, i have been on the list for some time now and > receive all the messages daily, i often see people posting messages regarding > healeys for sale, i was offered the car by one of our customers and simply > thought i would post it incase any one on the list had any interest, no > financial gain on my part. What i find really hard to under stand is the group > is totally Austin Healey orientated and some one mentions that there is a > Healey for sale and this is so wrong, i just dont get it. There really is some > sad people out there, it very much reminds me of some of the idiots you get on > ebay that really should not be on the site, the same applies to those who feel > the need to jump so quickly on here when they see something they think is > wrong, Like the last post said on your key board is a DELETE BUTTON use it. > > I dare not mention i have a shed full of rare 100 M parts for sale i might get > it in the Neck... > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Aug 29 13:18:57 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:18:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20110829151857.P53FB.1728910.imail@fed1rmwml29> "Because all list postings go to hundreds of people, with a wide range of interests and computing capabilities, we ask that you try to follow these simple guidelines for companies on the Team.Net mailing lists. The main purpose of the Team.Net Mailing lists archives, and web pages are to discuss and share information about British cars or Auto-x, racing, and related people, events, parts sources, technical info, etc. Participation and contribution of related businesses and their employees in these discussions is quite welcome and valued. Beyond casual comments within ongoing discussions or occasional mention external services, if a company wants to do business on the net, they should not use these lists, but find other means to do so. Many readers do not want to see commercial advertisements on the mailing lists, and will react negativly to such "electronic junk mail". Republishing or using postings from a list or archive for commercial purposes without permission of the author(s) may be a violation of various copyrights, and is generally frowned upon. Most authors are happy to provide permission to have specific postings published as long as they are asked." From healeyguy at bredband.net Mon Aug 29 13:19:37 2011 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:19:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E5BE649.1040802@bredband.net> Hi I'll be there too, and to the Beaulieu Autojumble. I will be driving my Citrokn C5, so I can buy stuff at the autojumble and bring it home. It has happened before that the air company didn't allow me to take things home as hand luggage, so I had to leave the stuff at the airport and come back after a couple of days to pick it up. Per in Sweden From autofarm at cyg.net Mon Aug 29 13:30:43 2011 From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 15:30:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival References: Message-ID: <38642AF9EFF54FB094E5564B7B5B3249@OFFICE> Hey Rick, we are going to be at the Goodwood revival and the Beaulieu Autojumble. We are staying in New Milton for Beaulieu and Worthing for Goodwood. Cheers.......Bob Check out our web site www.autofarm.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Swain" To: "Healey List" Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 1:47 PM Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival > We're leaving for a vacation in England next week. Highlight for me is the > Goodwood Revival. Anybody else on the list going to be there? Perhaps we > could > arrange to meet up. I won't be driving my Healey but I have rented (hired) > a > Morgan 4/4 from the factory. > Rick'59 BN4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Aug 29 13:37:04 2011 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:37:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <1428783967.743383.1314640811848.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> <1428783967.743383.1314640811848.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1314646624.44237.YahooMailNeo@web161012.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Now that the window is partially open is it OK to ask the list for information on items previously listed for sale? Specifically. Does anyone know if Dan Lempert is still accepting orders for the Big Healey 354 : 1 Ring and Pinion set? I've ordered one and want to order another one for a friend but he isn't very responsive in answering emails. I have recently sent two emails to him requesting information on if he is still accepting order but to date NO response. Thank you Ron Mitchell BN7 TriCarb BN6 AN5 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 29 14:57:13 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 16:57:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <001001cc6673$d3c447f0$7b4cd7d0$@net> Message-ID: <20110829165713.30NFG.187419.root@pamxwww02-z01> As I mentioned to him, my guess is that since it was listed under a Trade name and not a listers name, that is probably what kicked this all of. No problem either way for me. tom ---- Rich Chrysler wrote: ============= I'll be the first to say that I don't want this list to become a common "want ad" and "for sale" listing, but I have no problem with something noted to be for sale and to list a contact number or email for further information. After all, if it helps the cause of getting somebody a car or part they need, why not? Rich Chrysler _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 29 15:33:43 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:33:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <20110829165713.30NFG.187419.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: <20110829173343.ZCT51.187803.root@pamxwww02-z01> Just so we know, and to try to keep everything legal, here is his web site. No other reason to post it except to add add info to determine if it meets list protocol. http://www.classictradespace.com/about.asp ---- Tom Felts wrote: ============= As I mentioned to him, my guess is that since it was listed under a Trade name and not a listers name, that is probably what kicked this all of. No problem either way for me. tom ---- Rich Chrysler wrote: ============= I'll be the first to say that I don't want this list to become a common "want ad" and "for sale" listing, but I have no problem with something noted to be for sale and to list a contact number or email for further information. After all, if it helps the cause of getting somebody a car or part they need, why not? Rich Chrysler _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tld6008 at mchsi.com Mon Aug 29 16:02:24 2011 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:02:24 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <001001cc6673$d3c447f0$7b4cd7d0$@net> Message-ID: <583218994.2842011314655344561.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14> I Agree Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Chrysler" To: "classic trade space" , healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 12:48:14 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale I'll be the first to say that I don't want this list to become a common "want ad" and "for sale" listing, but I have no problem with something noted to be for sale and to list a contact number or email for further information. After all, if it helps the cause of getting somebody a car or part they need, why not? Rich Chrysler _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008 at mchsi.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 29 16:56:56 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 22:56:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <6E289D9D-EAFF-42D9-92BC-66B48890E64A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <20965416.761805.1314658616041.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Maybe because he (she?) is remaining anonymous--including in a rather obnoxious personal reply to me--except for the commercial website email address. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- What is wrong with the way he did it. ... From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Aug 29 17:00:20 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:00:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> References: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS> Message-ID: For what it is worth, we see offers to sell Healey items, or notices of Healey items for sale on the list all the time. What I don't think anyone wants to see is the list become dominated by anonymous "spam" Healey related or (particularly) not. Mr. xxxx, Had your first note contained a little more information like your 2nd I don't think there would have been an issue ("I am a long time lurker, just acquired a car for sale any interest let me know, etc."), and perhaps your name as well, I am not aware of any rule to this effect, but everyone pretty much identifies themselves by name, not anonymous or an internet "handle" on the list. As posted the original note looked sort anonymousish and spamish. You just have to start with the magic words and you are into the club "Hi my name is XXX and I am a Healeyholic.....". Not trying to criticize, just analyze, welcome to the list hope your car and a soon to be happy lister can match up for a great deal all around, thanks for bringing it to our attention. Greg Lemon From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Aug 29 17:14:54 2011 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:14:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <583218994.2842011314655344561.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14> References: <583218994.2842011314655344561.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14> Message-ID: <020F85CE78E54CBF8398183646A68FBF@GregPC> I replied before I caught up with all the post on this one, sorry, was inadvertantly redundant with my response, but good to see we mostly seem to be arriving at a similar place on the issue. Regards, Greg Lemon From ghess4 at cox.net Mon Aug 29 17:58:42 2011 From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 16:58:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <1314646624.44237.YahooMailNeo@web161012.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS><1428783967.743383.1314640811848.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1314646624.44237.YahooMailNeo@web161012.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7228804C114B49B0B261A63B66F5C8E1@GalePC> Ron, I had an email exchange with Dan about two weeks ago. He said that the completion of the current gear order appears to be, as I had suggested in my question to him, "around the end of the year". He said that he hoped to improve that time frame. I didn't ask him whether he was still taking orders but I had come to understand a few months ago that he was. I did take him a few days to respond to my email but in these days if you have a full time job you probably want to give priority to it? Alton Hess ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 12:37 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale > Now that the window is partially open is it OK to ask the list for > information > on items previously listed for sale? > > Specifically. Does anyone know if Dan > Lempert is still accepting orders for the Big > Healey 354 : 1 Ring and Pinion > set? I've ordered one and want to order > another one for a friend but he > isn't very responsive in answering > emails. I have recently sent two emails > to him requesting information > on if he is still accepting order but to date > NO response. > > Thank you > Ron Mitchell > BN7 TriCarb > BN6 > AN5 > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghess4 at cox.net From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 29 19:55:11 2011 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:55:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission-Overdrive locked up Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20110829184940.02083d30@pop.att.yahoo.com> The overdrive has not been operated for several years but worked before replacing a few parts. The OD and transmission worked freely before mating the two together. Everything lined up fine and they slipped together without forcing anything. After bolting the trans and OD together the OD will not move and when the transmission is in gear it will not move either. All I could garner from the archives is that the OD brake ring or clutch assembly might be locked due to weak clutch springs. They were a little shorter than spec. Do I need to replace the set of 8 springs or is there another problem? Thanks, John Spaur '62 BT7 From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Mon Aug 29 23:33:21 2011 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 07:33:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission-Overdrive locked up In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20110829184940.02083d30@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20110829184940.02083d30@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Did you check the thickness of the shim on the main bearing. The one that is sandwiched between the o/d adaptor plate and the bearing. If it is too thick it will lock up the whole assembly. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 30 aug 2011 kl. 03:55 skrev john spaur: > The overdrive has not been operated for several years but worked before replacing a few parts. The OD and transmission worked freely before mating the two together. Everything lined up fine and they slipped together without forcing anything. > > After bolting the trans and OD together the OD will not move and when the transmission is in gear it will not move either. All I could garner from the archives is that the OD brake ring or clutch assembly might be locked due to weak clutch springs. They were a little shorter than spec. > > Do I need to replace the set of 8 springs or is there another problem? > > Thanks, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Tue Aug 30 00:33:47 2011 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 08:33:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival In-Reply-To: <38642AF9EFF54FB094E5564B7B5B3249@OFFICE> References: <38642AF9EFF54FB094E5564B7B5B3249@OFFICE> Message-ID: <8335DE63-CEB6-40A5-B9F5-F9CD54AC31BD@bornet.net> I'm going to go to Goodwood and will be staying in Worthing. I would be happy to meet up with anyone on the list. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 29 aug 2011 kl. 21:30 skrev "Bob Yule" : > Hey Rick, we are going to be at the Goodwood revival and the Beaulieu Autojumble. We are staying in New Milton for Beaulieu and Worthing for Goodwood. > Cheers.......Bob > Check out our web site www.autofarm.net > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Swain" > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 1:47 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Revival > > >> We're leaving for a vacation in England next week. Highlight for me is the >> Goodwood Revival. Anybody else on the list going to be there? Perhaps we could >> arrange to meet up. I won't be driving my Healey but I have rented (hired) a >> Morgan 4/4 from the factory. >> Rick'59 BN4 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 30 01:05:36 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 02:05:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <7228804C114B49B0B261A63B66F5C8E1@GalePC> References: <29D8D9EC48AB45769801F35A1CCBF0CF@WORLDCARS><1428783967.743383.1314640811848.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1314646624.44237.YahooMailNeo@web161012.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <7228804C114B49B0B261A63B66F5C8E1@GalePC> Message-ID: <4E5C8BC0.8040505@justbrits.com> Hey Ron ! ! LONG time no see ! ! And Hi Alton ! ! << Ron, I had an email exchange with Dan about two weeks ago. >> Wonder why he didn't 'mention' that his Son is running both Product Programs ?!?!? It's mentioned on his Web Site [don't have it handy] ?? Ed 1] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com 2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at: www.spritenut.com Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED ! From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Aug 30 02:13:14 2011 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 18:13:14 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 With a Difference Message-ID: <47A85E21BAC34FE3B40EFCB5DF7B887F@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day You can forget about all your V8 powered 'Nasty Boy' Austin-Healeys. I would prefer this any day:- http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/productsb/_products_sub_group_details.asp?id =1160 Yes they are going to give me a block of flats plus Tasmania if it's sold. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 30 03:01:12 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 04:01:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <20110829165713.30NFG.187419.root@pamxwww02-z01> References: <20110829165713.30NFG.187419.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: <4E5CA6D8.1090504@justbrits.com> << ...my guess is that since it was listed under a Trade name and not a listers name, ..... >> Huh , Tom ? ** And have you 'forgotten' David's Sig ?? ** David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com * *or Dave Porter* *** frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NEAlbuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles & cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: ** or Bob Yule: * *Cheers.......Bob Check out our web site www.autofarm.net * * or ( of late ) Magnus * *Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com * *or (sporadically) Marty* * Martin Jansen Marty www.jule-enterprises.com * and/or *Myself * *Ed 1] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com 2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at: www.spritenut.com Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED ! ** ** ** Want more ? ! ? If so, Just go to ether http://autox.team.net/tn-mail.html and follow Link in YELLOW box _*OR*_ http://autox.team.net/www/corp-use.html and read THAT page. Past time for 3rd try at sleep HTHs and FWIW ! and YMMV ! and FYI ! ! ! ! Ed " It ain't a bed of roses !" From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 03:16:01 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 11:16:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 With a Difference In-Reply-To: <47A85E21BAC34FE3B40EFCB5DF7B887F@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <47A85E21BAC34FE3B40EFCB5DF7B887F@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: Yes, I would think they would. Dare we ask what the price might be? Fabulous piece of work. Great colour scheme etc. A Restomod is I believe the term used for this kind of thing. Would be nice to see some 3/4 front views and a complete side on view just to see the proportions. One minor quible (very, very, very minor) I would change the wheel for an equally spaced Moto-Lita. Great work Derek On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 10:13 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > G'day > > > > You can forget about all your V8 powered 'Nasty Boy' Austin-Healeys. > > > > I would prefer this any day:- > > > > > http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/productsb/_products_sub_group_details.asp?id > =1160 > > > > Yes they are going to give me a block of flats plus Tasmania if it's sold. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 03:50:37 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 11:50:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Whats the length of your dipstick? (no jokes please) Message-ID: For some reason the PO was using a dipstick from a BJ8 engine in my car, which has an earlier 3000 engine. The BJ8 stick is much longer so upsurprisingly it was always showing over full. Ive just received a dipstick from AH Spares. No reason to think its not accurate but I was wondering if anyone could provide me with the length of their dipstick (as I said no jokes please) from the circular stop that caps off the tube, to the MAX and MIN marks. thanks Derek From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Aug 30 06:18:41 2011 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 8:18:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <4E5CA6D8.1090504@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <20110830081841.DNUOJ.275111.root@pamxwww04-z01> I was talking about the original lister of the 100-6 for sale---not the "Daves". ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: ============= << ...my guess is that since it was listed under a Trade name and not a listers name, ..... >> Huh , Tom ? ** And have you 'forgotten' David's Sig ?? ** David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca www.britishcarspecialists.com * *or Dave Porter* *** frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NEAlbuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles & cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: ** or Bob Yule: * *Cheers.......Bob Check out our web site www.autofarm.net * * or ( of late ) Magnus * *Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com * *or (sporadically) Marty* * Martin Jansen Marty www.jule-enterprises.com * and/or *Myself * *Ed 1] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com 2] Please visit Frank C.'s site at: www.spritenut.com Article(s) and/or pictures REQUESTED ! ** ** ** Want more ? ! ? If so, Just go to ether http://autox.team.net/tn-mail.html and follow Link in YELLOW box _*OR*_ http://autox.team.net/www/corp-use.html and read THAT page. Past time for 3rd try at sleep HTHs and FWIW ! and YMMV ! and FYI ! ! ! ! Ed " It ain't a bed of roses !" _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tonup at tellink.net Tue Aug 30 06:50:10 2011 From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 08:50:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main bearing caps Message-ID: <516ECF8890834A4F9528D19BAFD29571@FrankPC> All set to reassemble my 100/6 engine. The front and rear main bearing caps are a very tight fit. I assembled the crank/caps to check clearances and all is well with a measurement with plastigauge exactly between 0.0015" and 0.002". Exactly the same clearance on all journals at 75ft*lbs. It seems like I should make the front and rear mains fit more easily and am resisting the temptation to take some 600 grit paper on a piece of glass to the sides. I can put it together as is and get the clearance I need on the journal. Just wondering if this is a problem worth addressing. any thoughts? Frank From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 08:17:37 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 22:17:37 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Mike Lempert's Address Message-ID: Hi - Sorry, if someone can reply offlist. I need Mike Lempert's address. He's not responding to my emails so far. Thanks! Alan From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 30 08:17:42 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 10:17:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main bearing caps In-Reply-To: <516ECF8890834A4F9528D19BAFD29571@FrankPC> References: <516ECF8890834A4F9528D19BAFD29571@FrankPC> Message-ID: <000c01cc671f$95333530$bf999f90$@net> Frank, That is meant to be a very snug fit so do not be tempted to relieve it in any way. That would certainly end up being a source of leakage if you removed any material. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Sent: 2011-08-30 8:50 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main bearing caps All set to reassemble my 100/6 engine. The front and rear main bearing caps are a very tight fit. I assembled the crank/caps to check clearances and all is well with a measurement with plastigauge exactly between 0.0015" and 0.002". Exactly the same clearance on all journals at 75ft*lbs. It seems like I should make the front and rear mains fit more easily and am resisting the temptation to take some 600 grit paper on a piece of glass to the sides. I can put it together as is and get the clearance I need on the journal. Just wondering if this is a problem worth addressing. any thoughts? Frank _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From jculpjr at yahoo.com Tue Aug 30 09:01:42 2011 From: jculpjr at yahoo.com (Jim Culp) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 08:01:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Metallic Golden Beige BJ8 for sale In-Reply-To: <000c01cc671f$95333530$bf999f90$@net> Message-ID: <1314716502.72471.YahooMailClassic@web39305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/2573292679.html This is a listing for my Metallic Golden Beige numbers matching project car for sale. Please contact me at jdculpjr at gmail.com for more information. From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 30 09:08:25 2011 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 08:08:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Whats the length of your dipstick? (no jokes please) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All the dipsticks are the same length, The only difference is the location of the stop washer. The length of the BJ8 dipstick washer to the full line is 16" and 1" between full and low David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 30, 2011, at 2:50 AM, Derek Job wrote: > For some reason the PO was using a dipstick from a BJ8 engine in my > car, > which has an earlier 3000 engine. The BJ8 stick is much longer so > upsurprisingly it was always showing over full. > > Ive just received a dipstick from AH Spares. No reason to think its > not > accurate but I was wondering if anyone could provide me with the > length of > their dipstick (as I said no jokes please) from the circular stop > that caps > off the tube, to the MAX and MIN marks. > > thanks > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From jstmorris at yahoo.com Tue Aug 30 09:49:08 2011 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 08:49:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Mike Lempert's Address Message-ID: <1314719348.27587.YahooMailClassic@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> For Mike Lempert's contact information, see http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/gears and http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/722338/Mike_Lemp ert_gear_sets --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Tue, 8/30/11, Alan Seigrist wrote:<< Hi - Sorry, if someone can reply offlist. I need Mike Lempert's address. He's not responding to my emails so far. >> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Business Card.01.jpg] From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 12:28:04 2011 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 11:28:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Linkage update Message-ID: After the fine folks at Cape International shipped me the updated bracket, gratis, I was able to hook up the carb end of the cable. The next step was how to attach the throttle arm end. I fabricated an easier to attach bracket to attach the throttle arm end of the cable. At this point, not beautiful, but it is proof of concept. Not sure about how much throw I have on the carb shafts, but I hope to know asap. Need to wire up my dash and insulate any bare wire ends from things not hooked up yet, hang my exhaust and see if I can light her off and not burn up the loom. Stay tuned.... From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 13:14:30 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 21:14:30 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Whats the length of your dipstick? (no jokes please) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: David, You may have misunderstood my question. I had a BJ8 dipstick but have now just received one for a 3000. The BJ8 dipsticks are much longer. As you mentioned they are 16 inches to the full line whereas I have now ascertained that a 3000 dipstick is 11 inches to the full line and 12 inches to the MIN level. The AH Spares repro item is as I suspected slightly incorrect as it measures 10 7/8 and 11 7/8 to the respective marks. regards Derek On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 5:08 PM, David Nock wrote: > All the dipsticks are the same length, The only difference is the location > of the stop washer. > > The length of the BJ8 dipstick washer to the full line is 16" and 1" > between full and low > > > > > David Nock > > British Car Specialists > > Stockton Ca 95205 > > 209-948-8767 > > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > . > > . > > On Aug 30, 2011, at 2:50 AM, Derek Job wrote: > > For some reason the PO was using a dipstick from a BJ8 engine in my car, > which has an earlier 3000 engine. The BJ8 stick is much longer so > upsurprisingly it was always showing over full. > > Ive just received a dipstick from AH Spares. No reason to think its not > accurate but I was wondering if anyone could provide me with the length of > their dipstick (as I said no jokes please) from the circular stop that caps > off the tube, to the MAX and MIN marks. > > thanks > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 30 13:47:22 2011 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 14:47:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Whats the length of your dipstick? (no jokes please) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002f01cc674d$af0b0720$0d211560$@net> Derek, I am confused. A BJ8 is an Austin Healey 3000. For what it is worth, the dip stick from my 1959 AH 3000 is 12-1/4 inches from tip to washer stop, with the difference between min and max being 1 inch. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 2:15 PM To: David Nock Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whats the length of your dipstick? (no jokes please) David, You may have misunderstood my question. I had a BJ8 dipstick but have now just received one for a 3000. The BJ8 dipsticks are much longer. As you mentioned they are 16 inches to the full line whereas I have now ascertained that a 3000 dipstick is 11 inches to the full line and 12 inches to the MIN level. The AH Spares repro item is as I suspected slightly incorrect as it measures 10 7/8 and 11 7/8 to the respective marks. regards Derek On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 5:08 PM, David Nock wrote: > All the dipsticks are the same length, The only difference is the location > of the stop washer. > > The length of the BJ8 dipstick washer to the full line is 16" and 1" > between full and low > > > > > David Nock > > British Car Specialists > > Stockton Ca 95205 > > 209-948-8767 > > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > . > > . > > On Aug 30, 2011, at 2:50 AM, Derek Job wrote: > > For some reason the PO was using a dipstick from a BJ8 engine in my car, > which has an earlier 3000 engine. The BJ8 stick is much longer so > upsurprisingly it was always showing over full. > > Ive just received a dipstick from AH Spares. No reason to think its not > accurate but I was wondering if anyone could provide me with the length of > their dipstick (as I said no jokes please) from the circular stop that caps > off the tube, to the MAX and MIN marks. > > thanks > > Derek From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 14:04:21 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 22:04:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Linkage update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just about to begin the most exciting chapter!!! BMC forever! Gergo 2011/8/30 i erbs > After the fine folks at Cape International shipped me the updated bracket, > gratis, I was able to hook up the carb end of the cable. The next step was > how to attach the throttle arm end. I fabricated an easier to attach > bracket > to attach the throttle arm end of the cable. At this point, not beautiful, > but it is proof of concept. Not sure about how much throw I have on the > carb > shafts, but I hope to know asap. Need to wire up my dash and insulate any > bare wire ends from things not hooked up yet, hang my exhaust and see if I > can light her off and not burn up the loom. > Stay tuned.... > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 14:00:28 2011 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 15:00:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Whats the length of your dipstick? (LBC, but not Healey) Message-ID: I cut out the "no joke" because quality on Jaguars *was* a joke. In the back of the shop where I took my bugeye I saw a Jaguar XK140 with a burned up motor. I traced down the owner (pause for a politically incorrect comment abut dumb woman drivers), and had the motor rebuilt. One of the missing items was the dip stick. I bought both the service manual and the parts manual, and looked up the part number. Wacky Arnolt was glad to sell me the replacement with the part number stamped on the stick. When the car was finished I began driving it. After a while the oil pressure would start to vary drastically. I took the car back and the mechanic checked the oil using the stick. Read full. We added some oil and the problem went away for a time. We repeated the exercise twice before he got an idea. He drained all the oil, and replaced it with the specified number of quarts. Turns out that while I had the correct part number, as stamped on the stick, the full/add marks were in the wrong place. He chased down the leak and all was well. No wonder there is virtually no British car industry. BTW, when I took it on the road I discovered I was passing most of the cars in front of me. The car handled beautifully at that speed and it didn't seem excessive. When I got back I checked the service manual against the part number stamped on front of the speedometer. Seem I had the wrong speedometer and I really must have been traveling about 95MPH. Fortunately this was in the early 60s before most speed limits. Quality? Jack From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 30 14:31:12 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 22:31:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main bearing caps In-Reply-To: <516ECF8890834A4F9528D19BAFD29571@FrankPC> References: <516ECF8890834A4F9528D19BAFD29571@FrankPC> Message-ID: <4E5D4890.2030308@chello.nl> Leave well alone!! Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 15:03:11 2011 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 23:03:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Whats the length of your dipstick? (no jokes please) In-Reply-To: <002f01cc674d$af0b0720$0d211560$@net> References: <002f01cc674d$af0b0720$0d211560$@net> Message-ID: Ron The BJ8 engine is slightly different. The dipstick is in a completely different position and is 4 inches longer, Derek On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 9:47 PM, Ron Ray wrote: > Derek,**** > > ** ** > > I am confused. A BJ8 is an Austin Healey 3000.**** > > ** ** > > For what it is worth, the dip stick from my 1959 AH 3000 is 12-1/4 inches > from tip to washer stop, with the difference between min and max being 1 > inch.**** > > ** ** > > Ron**** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job > Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 2:15 PM > To: David Nock > Cc: Forum > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whats the length of your dipstick? (no jokes please) > > ** ** > > David,**** > > ** ** > > You may have misunderstood my question. I had a BJ8 dipstick but have now* > *** > > just received one for a 3000. The BJ8 dipsticks are much longer. As you*** > * > > mentioned they are 16 inches to the full line whereas I have now > ascertained**** > > that a 3000 dipstick is 11 inches to the full line and 12 inches to the MIN > **** > > level.**** > > ** ** > > The AH Spares repro item is as I suspected slightly incorrect as it > measures**** > > 10 7/8 and 11 7/8 to the respective marks.**** > > ** ** > > regards**** > > ** ** > > Derek**** > > ** ** > > On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 5:08 PM, David Nock > wrote:**** > > ** ** > > > All the dipsticks are the same length, The only difference is the > location**** > > > of the stop washer.**** > > >** ** > > > The length of the BJ8 dipstick washer to the full line is 16" and 1"**** > > > between full and low**** > > >** ** > > >** ** > > >** ** > > >** ** > > > David Nock**** > > >** ** > > > British Car Specialists**** > > >** ** > > > Stockton Ca 95205**** > > >** ** > > > 209-948-8767**** > > >** ** > > >** ** > > > www.britishcarspecialists.com**** > > >** ** > > > .**** > > >** ** > > > .**** > > >** ** > > > On Aug 30, 2011, at 2:50 AM, Derek Job wrote:**** > > >** ** > > > For some reason the PO was using a dipstick from a BJ8 engine in my > car,**** > > > which has an earlier 3000 engine. The BJ8 stick is much longer so**** > > > upsurprisingly it was always showing over full.**** > > >** ** > > > Ive just received a dipstick from AH Spares. No reason to think its not* > *** > > > accurate but I was wondering if anyone could provide me with the length > of**** > > > their dipstick (as I said no jokes please) from the circular stop that > caps**** > > > off the tube, to the MAX and MIN marks.**** > > >** ** > > > thanks**** > > >** ** > > > Derek**** From 55healey at comcast.net Tue Aug 30 18:48:31 2011 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 17:48:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Horns Message-ID: <8A2D968E-C7B4-4FD5-99BE-50476A080491@comcast.net> I was cleaning up the horns on my 100 and noticed one was at full blast while the second only emitted a feeble vibration. Do I need to take it apart to tune it up or can I fix it with a few well placed blows? Can I put 12v. straight into it with my jumper battery or will I fry it? Is there an easy way to determine if it is a high or low note? Or in my case no note at all. By the way the Duplicolor (for a honda) "Seattle Silver Met" (YR94M) is a pretty close match to the original color. Thanks, Rob (Silver in Seattle) WA From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Aug 30 19:08:21 2011 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 18:08:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN6 With a Difference In-Reply-To: <47A85E21BAC34FE3B40EFCB5DF7B887F@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <1314752901.85128.YahooMailClassic@web161208.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> That is drool-worthy. Thanks for posting, Patrick. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Tue, 8/30/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Subject: [Healeys] BN6 With a Difference To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, August 30, 2011, 4:13 AM G'day You can forget about all your V8 powered 'Nasty Boy' Austin-Healeys. I would prefer this any day:- http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/productsb/_products_sub_group_details.asp?id =1160 Yes they are going to give me a block of flats plus Tasmania if it's sold. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 19:24:38 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 09:24:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Horns In-Reply-To: <8A2D968E-C7B4-4FD5-99BE-50476A080491@comcast.net> References: <8A2D968E-C7B4-4FD5-99BE-50476A080491@comcast.net> Message-ID: Rob - The horns have contact relays in them, so the best way is to open them and clean the contacts.... Alan On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 8:48 AM, robert westcott <55healey at comcast.net>wrote: > I was cleaning up the horns on my 100 and noticed one was at full blast > while the second only emitted a feeble vibration. > Do I need to take it apart to tune it up or can I fix it with a few well > placed blows? > Can I put 12v. straight into it with my jumper battery or will I fry it? > Is there an easy way to determine if it is a high or low note? Or in my > case no note at all. > > By the way the Duplicolor (for a honda) "Seattle Silver Met" (YR94M) is > a pretty close match to the original color. > > Thanks, > > Rob (Silver in Seattle) WA > ______________________________**_________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 19:26:36 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 09:26:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Horns In-Reply-To: References: <8A2D968E-C7B4-4FD5-99BE-50476A080491@comcast.net> Message-ID: You can see the contacts at the end of this page: http://taffthehorns.com/ORIGINAL-VINTAGE-Lucas-Altette-Plus-Miller-Clearhooters-Horns-for-sale-whilst-they-remain-Part-ex-Broken-incomplete-DUDS-often-accepted- On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 9:24 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Rob - > > The horns have contact relays in them, so the best way is to open them and > clean the contacts.... > > Alan > > On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 8:48 AM, robert westcott <55healey at comcast.net>wrote: > >> I was cleaning up the horns on my 100 and noticed one was at full blast >> while the second only emitted a feeble vibration. >> Do I need to take it apart to tune it up or can I fix it with a few well >> placed blows? >> Can I put 12v. straight into it with my jumper battery or will I fry it? >> Is there an easy way to determine if it is a high or low note? Or in my >> case no note at all. >> >> By the way the Duplicolor (for a honda) "Seattle Silver Met" (YR94M) is >> a pretty close match to the original color. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Rob (Silver in Seattle) WA >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com From dwflagg at juno.com Tue Aug 30 19:27:55 2011 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 21:27:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Tonneau Message-ID: <20110830.182845.6247.101239@mailpop01.dca.untd.com> Would anyone have an old, worn, but complete 100 tonneau available? TIA Doug ____________________________________________________________ 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25 Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e5d8e4f122fc16027bst02duc From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 20:13:13 2011 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 19:13:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 With a Difference In-Reply-To: <1314752901.85128.YahooMailClassic@web161208.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1314752901.85128.YahooMailClassic@web161208.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2AA6D426-D93A-4D0A-AE03-D7E7AD61787B@gmail.com> how many HP does that bad boy make with three webers and headers?? ron rader Sent from my iPhone On Aug 30, 2011, at 6:08 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > That is drool-worthy. Thanks for posting, Patrick. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Tue, 8/30/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > > From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn > Subject: [Healeys] BN6 With a Difference > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, August 30, 2011, 4:13 AM > > G'day > > > > You can forget about all your V8 powered 'Nasty Boy' Austin-Healeys. > > > > I would prefer this any day:- > > > > http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/productsb/_products_sub_group_details.asp?id > =1160 > > > > Yes they are going to give me a block of flats plus Tasmania if it's sold. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From 55healey at comcast.net Tue Aug 30 20:24:20 2011 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 19:24:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Horns fixed Message-ID: <8ABDE865-5123-4064-87B5-E07981B58E3E@comcast.net> Thanks Alan and Gilbert, A little power, a few smacks on the side, some turns on the adjusting screw and I now have 2 working horns. This list is fantastic, sent out the original question at 6:14, horns are fixed and annoying the neighbors at 6:58 (and my spare is back together as well). Thanks all, Rob From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 30 20:24:19 2011 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 22:24:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Tonneau In-Reply-To: <20110830.182845.6247.101239@mailpop01.dca.untd.com> References: <20110830.182845.6247.101239@mailpop01.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <001201cc6785$16f8d7e0$44ea87a0$@net> Doug, An early style or a late style. Two very different tonneaus... Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dwflagg at juno.com Sent: 2011-08-30 9:28 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Tonneau Would anyone have an old, worn, but complete 100 tonneau available? TIA Doug ____________________________________________________________ From tonup at tellink.net Tue Aug 30 20:45:04 2011 From: tonup at tellink.net (Frank) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 22:45:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main caps Message-ID: <337262AD1A0C4390A3EF3D8953151733@FrankPC> Thanks for the replies about my earlier question. I fit the caps without altering them. It all went fine except one of the front cork seals decided to bend rather than slide. Got it all together with some hylomar blue at the joints. Will fit pistons/rods next. Frank From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 30 21:47:20 2011 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 20:47:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 With a Difference In-Reply-To: <2AA6D426-D93A-4D0A-AE03-D7E7AD61787B@gmail.com> References: <1314752901.85128.YahooMailClassic@web161208.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <2AA6D426-D93A-4D0A-AE03-D7E7AD61787B@gmail.com> Message-ID: <69E36485-E35D-403C-A98F-DA9C32740F23@cox.net> 4.4 liters stroked! Love that car. On Aug 30, 2011, at 7:13 PM, F Ronald Rader wrote: > how many HP does that bad boy make with three webers and headers?? > > ron rader > Sent from my iPhone > > On Aug 30, 2011, at 6:08 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > >> That is drool-worthy. Thanks for posting, Patrick. >> >> Rick >> >> >> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo >> >> --- On Tue, 8/30/11, Patrick and Caroline Quinn > wrote: >> >> From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn >> Subject: [Healeys] BN6 With a Difference >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Tuesday, August 30, 2011, 4:13 AM >> >> G'day >> >> >> >> You can forget about all your V8 powered 'Nasty Boy' Austin-Healeys. >> >> >> >> I would prefer this any day:- >> >> >> >> > http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/productsb/_products_sub_group_details.asp?id >> =1160 >> >> >> >> Yes they are going to give me a block of flats plus Tasmania if it's sold. >> >> >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> >> >> Patrick Quinn >> >> Sydney, Australia >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 23:32:20 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 07:32:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main bearing caps In-Reply-To: References: <516ECF8890834A4F9528D19BAFD29571@FrankPC> <000c01cc671f$95333530$bf999f90$@net> Message-ID: Measure it over with a set of dial gauges just to check the plastigauge. Though the numbers are right. If theese values are confirmed, then dont alter anything. Though the crankshaft should turn free with only the friction of the assembly lube or oil. Anything above this is BAD (bearing caps not lined up, offset grind camshaft etc). If You find any extra friction, dont be tempted to start the engine. Bring it back to the machinist. Gergo 2011/8/30 Rich C > Frank, > > That is meant to be a very snug fit so do not be tempted to relieve it in > any way. That would certainly end up being a source of leakage if you > removed any material. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Frank > Sent: 2011-08-30 8:50 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main bearing caps > > All set to reassemble my 100/6 engine. The front and rear main bearing > caps > are a very tight fit. I assembled the crank/caps to check clearances and > all > is well with a measurement with plastigauge exactly between 0.0015" and > 0.002". Exactly the same clearance on all journals at 75ft*lbs. > > It seems like I should make the front and rear mains fit more easily and am > resisting the temptation to take some 600 grit paper on a piece of glass to > the sides. I can put it together as is and get the clearance I need on the > journal. > > Just wondering if this is a problem worth addressing. > > any thoughts? > > Frank > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From pajtamuvek at gmail.com Tue Aug 30 23:32:20 2011 From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 07:32:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main bearing caps In-Reply-To: References: <516ECF8890834A4F9528D19BAFD29571@FrankPC> <000c01cc671f$95333530$bf999f90$@net> Message-ID: Measure it over with a set of dial gauges just to check the plastigauge. Though the numbers are right. If theese values are confirmed, then dont alter anything. Though the crankshaft should turn free with only the friction of the assembly lube or oil. Anything above this is BAD (bearing caps not lined up, offset grind camshaft etc). If You find any extra friction, dont be tempted to start the engine. Bring it back to the machinist. Gergo 2011/8/30 Rich C > Frank, > > That is meant to be a very snug fit so do not be tempted to relieve it in > any way. That would certainly end up being a source of leakage if you > removed any material. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Frank > Sent: 2011-08-30 8:50 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] six cylinder main bearing caps > > All set to reassemble my 100/6 engine. The front and rear main bearing > caps > are a very tight fit. I assembled the crank/caps to check clearances and > all > is well with a measurement with plastigauge exactly between 0.0015" and > 0.002". Exactly the same clearance on all journals at 75ft*lbs. > > It seems like I should make the front and rear mains fit more easily and am > resisting the temptation to take some 600 grit paper on a piece of glass to > the sides. I can put it together as is and get the clearance I need on the > journal. > > Just wondering if this is a problem worth addressing. > > any thoughts? > > Frank > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 31 00:51:29 2011 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 08:51:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Horns In-Reply-To: <8A2D968E-C7B4-4FD5-99BE-50476A080491@comcast.net> References: <8A2D968E-C7B4-4FD5-99BE-50476A080491@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E5DD9F1.9000706@chello.nl> The horns have an adjuster. It is a screw with locknut, plainly recognizable. You can try to adjust this screw bit by bit for max sound. This will vibrate of some of the dirt or rust that prevents your horn from producing a proper level of sound. If there is no success you can try to take the horn apart and investigate what the problem is. However it is usually not worth the trouble as you will probably find that all is more or lees rusted solid. No problem to connect it up straight to a battery. Just tap both horns with small wrench or some other metal object and you will know from the difference in sound which is the low and which is the high note one. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From dos_gusanos at msn.com Wed Aug 31 09:56:05 2011 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 09:56:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] TSD Rally in Taos, NM September 24 Message-ID: I am putting together a TSD Road Rally in Taos, New Mexico on September 24th and would love to have a good turnout especially considering how big a chore it is turning into. The Rally is a part of the Rio Grande Valley Regional Rendezvous put on by the British Automobile Owners Association in Albuquerque. Registration can be had at www.baoa.org Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Aug 31 19:49:20 2011 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 21:49:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Ramblings Message-ID: <01a601cc6849$5e465270$1ad2f750$@verizon.net> OK here's the deal. In mid-August we took our semi-annual trip to Pennsylvania Dutch territory to get our supply of the freshest and meats that you would ever want to buy. And, at the same time we were able to spend some time with the AHSTC Annual Encounter and visit with some great Healey friends. Unfortunately we had to come home to face: 1. August 18 during a lightning storm, a bolt hit extremely close to our house and fried the Verizon FiOS interconnect boxes. We were without telephone, TV and Internet services until August 23 when those good folks came back from strike and had to completely rebuild our system. Got a nice credit that almost pays for the cell phone that I had to buy for my wife when her old one went kaput. 2. Hurricane Irene hit four days later and on August 27 at 10:30 23 we lost electrical power along with over 300,000 in New Jersey. We just got it back today (31st) at 6:30pm. I opened my mailbox and found over 300 emails and a lot of interesting conversations. Now you would think that these events are a catastrophe. NOT. We learned that you can take an amazingly fast shower when all you have is cold water. We learned that Dollar Store candles last an awful long time (hardly made a dent in them). You can actually cook in a chafing dish warmed with those little candles. It is no big deal to keep your cell phone charging in the car. (luckily our van has hot taps). And, since most of the neighbors have "modern" all electric kitchens and we have gas, we had guests for dinner each night and they showed up in the morning for their coffee. Used up a lot of that meat. Our next door neighbor whose property is higher than ours had mud slide down to my patio however, I had some depressions in my front lawn and was going to buy top soil to fix them. Now, thanks to my neighbors mud, I don't have to buy the soil. We learned that there is still such a thing as reading books. Put away four of them over the past few days. We learned that ice in a cooler will keep things fresh for days. And, four bags of ice in a stand-up freezer will keep frozen foods frozen (and wine glasses and gin properly chilled) I learned that cell phones are OK for receiving emails but not for any with more than a few words. After a tour today of what remains of the beaches, my wife has decided that she does not want that dream house on the ocean but is content with one that is higher in elevation. 3. Allstate set up trailers, tables and representatives at Home Depot parking lots to take insurance claims. All we could claim was about $20.00 worth of cold cuts that we had to throw out. The claims representative is still laughing at us. Wonder why? Now back to the mundane things. Jokes will be flowing post haste to those who are on my joke lists and the Healey site will get some pretty good updates over the next week. John Sims From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Aug 31 20:31:01 2011 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 22:31:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] FW: Ramblings Message-ID: <2ac17.4b4cf561.3b90485c@aol.com> Glad you're safe and that your sense of humor is still intact and in fact, brimming over. Could have been way worse. Steven Kingsbury In a message dated 8/31/2011 6:57:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ahbn6 at verizon.net writes: OK here's the deal. In mid-August we took our semi-annual trip to Pennsylvania Dutch territory to get our supply of the freshest and meats that you would ever want to buy. And, at the same time we were able to spend some time with the AHSTC Annual Encounter and visit with some great Healey friends. Unfortunately we had to come home to face: 1. August 18 during a lightning storm, a bolt hit extremely close to our house and fried the Verizon FiOS interconnect boxes. We were without telephone, TV and Internet services until August 23 when those good folks came back from strike and had to completely rebuild our system. Got a nice credit that almost pays for the cell phone that I had to buy for my wife when her old one went kaput. 2. Hurricane Irene hit four days later and on August 27 at 10:30 23 we lost electrical power along with over 300,000 in New Jersey. We just got it back today (31st) at 6:30pm. I opened my mailbox and found over 300 emails and a lot of interesting conversations. Now you would think that these events are a catastrophe. NOT. We learned that you can take an amazingly fast shower when all you have is cold water. We learned that Dollar Store candles last an awful long time (hardly made a dent in them). You can actually cook in a chafing dish warmed with those little candles. It is no big deal to keep your cell phone charging in the car. (luckily our van has hot taps). And, since most of the neighbors have "modern" all electric kitchens and we have gas, we had guests for dinner each night and they showed up in the morning for their coffee. Used up a lot of that meat. Our next door neighbor whose property is higher than ours had mud slide down to my patio however, I had some depressions in my front lawn and was going to buy top soil to fix them. Now, thanks to my neighbors mud, I don't have to buy the soil. We learned that there is still such a thing as reading books. Put away four of them over the past few days. We learned that ice in a cooler will keep things fresh for days. And, four bags of ice in a stand-up freezer will keep frozen foods frozen (and wine glasses and gin properly chilled) I learned that cell phones are OK for receiving emails but not for any with more than a few words. After a tour today of what remains of the beaches, my wife has decided that she does not want that dream house on the ocean but is content with one that is higher in elevation. 3. Allstate set up trailers, tables and representatives at Home Depot parking lots to take insurance claims. All we could claim was about $20.00 worth of cold cuts that we had to throw out. The claims representative is still laughing at us. Wonder why? Now back to the mundane things. Jokes will be flowing post haste to those who are on my joke lists and the Healey site will get some pretty good updates over the next week. John Sims _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 31 20:37:16 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 10:37:16 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Need to Ship 100 Message-ID: All - I am looking to ship my 100 from California to Canada. The car is in decent running shape, but I'm not too worried about white glove service (i.e. enclosed container or anything). I just need efficient and professional service. It would be from San Francisco bay area to Toronto. Does anyone have a good suggestion on where I can find a decent company to do this? Thanks, Alan From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Aug 31 20:39:00 2011 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 02:39:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Ramblings In-Reply-To: <01a601cc6849$5e465270$1ad2f750$@verizon.net> References: <01a601cc6849$5e465270$1ad2f750$@verizon.net> Message-ID: John: Amazing. This goes to show that when someone, in this case you and your wife, respond in a positive manner to events that one has absolutely no control over, one can adapt to anything. No stress, just plain acceptance of the situation and make the best of it. Way to go. Jean > From: ahbn6 at verizon.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 21:49:20 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] FW: Ramblings > > OK here's the deal. In mid-August we took our semi-annual trip to > Pennsylvania Dutch territory to get our supply of the freshest and meats > that you would ever want to buy. And, at the same time we were able to spend > some time with the AHSTC Annual Encounter and visit with some great Healey > friends. Unfortunately we had to come home to face: > > 1. August 18 during a lightning storm, a bolt hit extremely close to our > house and fried the Verizon FiOS interconnect boxes. We were without > telephone, TV and Internet services until August 23 when those good folks > came back from strike and had to completely rebuild our system. Got a nice > credit that almost pays for the cell phone that I had to buy for my wife > when her old one went kaput. > > 2. Hurricane Irene hit four days later and on August 27 at 10:30 23 we lost > electrical power along with over 300,000 in New Jersey. We just got it back > today (31st) at 6:30pm. I opened my mailbox and found over 300 emails and a > lot of interesting conversations. Now you would think that these events are > a catastrophe. NOT. We learned that you can take an amazingly fast shower > when all you have is cold water. We learned that Dollar Store candles last > an awful long time (hardly made a dent in them). You can actually cook in a > chafing dish warmed with those little candles. It is no big deal to keep > your cell phone charging in the car. (luckily our van has hot taps). And, > since most of the neighbors have "modern" all electric kitchens and we have > gas, we had guests for dinner each night and they showed up in the morning > for their coffee. Used up a lot of that meat. Our next door neighbor whose > property is higher than ours had mud slide down to my patio however, I had > some depressions in my front lawn and was going to buy top soil to fix them. > Now, thanks to my neighbors mud, I don't have to buy the soil. We learned > that there is still such a thing as reading books. Put away four of them > over the past few days. We learned that ice in a cooler will keep things > fresh for days. And, four bags of ice in a stand-up freezer will keep frozen > foods frozen (and wine glasses and gin properly chilled) I learned that cell > phones are OK for receiving emails but not for any with more than a few > words. After a tour today of what remains of the beaches, my wife has > decided that she does not want that dream house on the ocean but is content > with one that is higher in elevation. > > 3. Allstate set up trailers, tables and representatives at Home Depot > parking lots to take insurance claims. All we could claim was about $20.00 > worth of cold cuts that we had to throw out. The claims representative is > still laughing at us. Wonder why? > > Now back to the mundane things. Jokes will be flowing post haste to those > who are on my joke lists and the Healey site will get some pretty good > updates over the next week. > > > John Sims > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 31 21:00:54 2011 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 11:00:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Exciting / Interesting video Message-ID: All - Just saw this on the forum. Very interesting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be Four things I see in this: 1) The later BJ8 suspension is clearly an advance over this earlier set up, as you can see the axle winding up every time he puts on power. The radius rods serve to stop the windup. 2) Later in the video you see the discs start getting white hot (the car is racing up to 150 mph) 3) Dutch racers are really into the mechanics of it all. 4) I admire the desire to race using the stock suspension! Cheers, Alan From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 31 21:57:00 2011 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 20:57:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Exciting / Interesting video In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E5F028C.8000204@comcast.net> No wonder the shocks leak. Bob On 8/31/2011 8:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > Just saw this on the forum. Very interesting: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN-4LLAKlpw&feature=youtu.be > > Four things I see in this: > > 1) The later BJ8 suspension is clearly an advance over this earlier set up, > as you can see the axle winding up every time he puts on power. The radius > rods serve to stop the windup. > 2) Later in the video you see the discs start getting white hot (the car is > racing up to 150 mph) > 3) Dutch racers are really into the mechanics of it all. > 4) I admire the desire to race using the stock suspension! > > Cheers, > > Alan > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From shop at justbrits.com Wed Aug 31 23:26:20 2011 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 00:26:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 for sale In-Reply-To: <20110830081841.DNUOJ.275111.root@pamxwww04-z01> References: <20110830081841.DNUOJ.275111.root@pamxwww04-z01> Message-ID: <4E5F177C.1020109@justbrits.com> << I was talking about the original lister of the 100-6 for sale---not the "Daves". >> A "vendor" IS a "Vendor" Tom, which IS why I listed ALL [as anyone could read ] and not JUST "...the "Daves..." " ! er, wid the exception of somebody that jumps in "The Mail List - Healeys" and is NOT a Healist and NOT a "List Contributor", then offers us a"Great Deal on a NEW GM/Ford product" ! ! Or our friendly Nigerian "offering up" a NEW "flim-flam" in return for........! ! ! Assuming [yeah I KNOW !] you are talking about Team Net Site there is no such box/thing as "...my guess is that since it was listed under a Trade..." ONLY 'Name' [NO "trade"] . See Addresses for Dave Porter (David Nock "should" have same) and myself as examples ! There is only a box for "...Mail address...". In other words. NO "Sign-up as Trade Person : " ( box ). ! Nor is there a NO "Sign-up as Non-Trade Person ( & have NO Trade affiliation(s):" ( box ). ! ! ! Likewise, Subscribing to Healeys List via request-healeys AT Autox.Team.Net ; you only get a conformation mail that you simply Reply to it; presto - you are able to Post and will receive Posts ! ! Ed " It ain't a bed of roses !"