From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 1 00:48:19 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:48:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C7DF733.4020205@chello.nl> Try cleaning the points first by sliding a piece of thin rough cardboard or stiff paper through them. You can also use very fine emery paper 2000+ or flower paper. New pumps can be had on ebay or through the usual suppliers. For a good quality non-original replacement pump have a look at www.fuelflow.co.nz Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 1 00:58:35 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:58:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Jag/weber ?? In-Reply-To: <001d01cb498a$7d5b21b0$78116510$@ca> References: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E150548@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> <001d01cb498a$7d5b21b0$78116510$@ca> Message-ID: <4C7DF99B.30805@chello.nl> An excellent book on Webers and DellOrto's is "How yo build & power tune Weber & DellOrto DCOE & DHLA Carburetors"by Des Hammil. 30: advance at idle (I presume) is way to much and could cause the spitting and rough idling. Usually is around 5:, see the WSM for the proper setting. Once the jetting is correct it is not difficult to set them up, just tedious. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Wed Sep 1 01:11:29 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 00:11:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ON MY NEW (TO ME) xk 150 i install two new pumps in parrell. i then wired a switch between the,m. if it fails i switch to the second pump. i know it is excessive but it is one less thing to worry about. i switch from one pump to the other when i think about it to keep them both functioning. ron rader BJ8 (gone) XK 150 FHC E type FHC nash Healey FHC On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 8:21 PM, Kenny J wrote: > > Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start it, I gave > the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff hammer. > Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys installing a > second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) fuel pump? > If so, where can I get one? From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Sep 1 04:00:06 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 20:00:06 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E5A6100-3B51-4333-A57F-A4F03E29E14D@gmail.com> I agree with Ron I just did it a slightly different way.... I have a high performance, double ended SU pump. One double ended pump. Connected to a 3 positio switch. No pumps One pump Both pumps Swap the running single end every time the rear is jacked up. Or when you remember. (as Ron said) Beware the double ended Su pump options. Some are designed to both be running. e.g. Some landrovers And before you fire the engine, a great diagnostic is hit the normal one pump switch. Then hit 2 pumps. Hear the second cut in. Then switch back to one... And off is antitheft!! Chris Sent from my iPhone On 01/09/2010, at 5:11 PM, F Ronald Rader wrote: > ON MY NEW (TO ME) xk 150 i install two new pumps in parrell. > i then wired a switch between the,m. if it fails i switch to the > second pump. > i know it is excessive but it is one less thing to worry about. > i switch from one pump to the other when i think about it to keep them > both functioning. > ron rader > BJ8 (gone) > XK 150 FHC > E type FHC > nash Healey FHC > > > On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 8:21 PM, Kenny J wrote: >> >> Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start >> it, I > gave >> the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff >> hammer. >> Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys >> installing > a >> second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) >> fuel > pump? >> If so, where can I get one? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 1 04:51:41 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 06:51:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question References: <353241.41928.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000601cb49c3$a99a8e80$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> OK Greg its time to step away from the computer and get some sleep. I am trying to put a luggage rack on as I stated. ; ) Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Mandas" To: "Mark LaPierre" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question >I took the hinges off the trunk to remove the lid . Why separate the >hinges ? > > Greg > 65BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. > > > On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:50 PM, "Mark LaPierre" > wrote: > > From which side does one drive the trunk hinge pins out. Its hard to > tell by > sight. This is for > the installation of a luggage rack. > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From jagwarman at gmail.com Wed Sep 1 07:28:39 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 09:28:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Message-ID: In anyone installed a set of Panasport knock off wheels on a 3000 Healey. I live on a rough highway and am looking for an improvement over the wire wheels cause my loosens spokes. Curious about any handling differences and wheel width since the panasports are wider. Also how large a tire can you run on these for height but not so wide to stick out far past fenders? Thanks From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 1 08:33:48 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 16:33:48 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C7E644C.4000106@chello.nl> Check and compare the size (width, diameter) and the off set/ET for both rims. You do not state the size of the Panasports. Watch for sufficient clearance of the front wheels when at full lock. Check if there is enough room for the front wheel brake calipers. A good site for comparing tire sizes is: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Sep 1 09:16:22 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 11:16:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well Kenny, Thinks about it. Your original square body pump lasted 50 years. A fresh set of points and properly adjusted diaphragm and she's probably good for another 50 years. In this day of throw away components, this pump is from a "rebuild and carry on" era. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Kenny J" Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:21 PM To: "Healeys Healeys" Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump > Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start it, I > gave > the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff hammer. > Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys installing > a > second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) fuel > pump? > If so, where can I get one? > > Kenny > 61 BT-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Sep 1 10:51:27 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 09:51:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: check out John Sim's site for the article I uploaded on how to rebuild a SU fuel pump. On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 8:16 AM, Rich C wrote: > Well Kenny, > > Thinks about it. Your original square body pump lasted 50 years. A fresh > set of points and properly adjusted diaphragm and she's probably good for > another 50 years. In this day of throw away components, this pump is from a > "rebuild and carry on" era. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Kenny J" > Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:21 PM > To: "Healeys Healeys" > Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump > > Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start it, I >> gave >> the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff hammer. >> Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys installing >> a >> second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) fuel >> pump? >> If so, where can I get one? >> >> Kenny >> 61 BT-7 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Sep 1 12:31:45 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 14:31:45 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD's Message-ID: <8fe3f.7c1026be.39aff611@aol.com> Just wanted to say a big thank you to all of you who ordered my DVD. Every order I received so far is now in the hands of the United States Postal Service and on its way to you. Please let me know if there are any problems with anything and I will do my best to get them resolved. Again, thank you all very much. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Sep 1 14:32:55 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 16:32:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Message-ID: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> Hello Healeyphiles - I had a chance this morning to check the accuracy of my water temp gauge. Having gone through the agony of removing the gauge from the car the last time I checked it, I seriously re-thought that process. Although it made me very nervous to have an open flame anywhere near the engine bay, I was able to test the gauge in a pot of water at a rolling boil without removing the gauge (fire extinguisher handy!). I placed a wooden board spanning the fenders and sat a Coleman camp stove on top of that. After getting the water boiling in the kitchen, I transferred the pot to the camp stove for the actual test. The gauge went exactly to 212 stayed there for a 10-minute test without going any higher. A photo of the setup is available to anyone who wants it. So, since I live at sea level, the conclusion is that my gauge is exactly correct and any problem is elsewhere. For Dave Porter: I did the radiator drain test: First I back-flushed the radiator with the garden hose and captured the "first flow" water in a large bowl. There were only about five very small flakes of something visible. Then I plugged the lower hose connection and filled up the radiator with water. After removing the plug, I measured the draining time with a stopwatch. It took only 6 seconds for the radiator to drain completely. There is some damage to the radiator fins at the lower driver's side corner, caused by catching it on the wind deflector during removal of the radiator in the past. Because of the lower hose connection interfering with the frame cross-piece, the clearance here is very close. Relative to the undamaged area, I find it hard to believe this could in itself cause my overheating problem. However, I'll have the radiator checked out by a shop. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From ryan at jimryan.com Wed Sep 1 15:01:04 2010 From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 17:01:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Top Gear Hill Climb Challenge Message-ID: <025301cb4a18$cd1a8950$674f9bf0$@com> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-DGMrLGnLg Thanks, -Jim )?) PO Box 361 81 Cranfield Street New Castle, NH 03854 603-436-3290 (Home) 603-801-5391 (Mobile) From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Sep 1 15:18:39 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 15:18:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> References: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> Message-ID: So, refresh my memory (it gets worse with age) does the gauge never (under driving circumstances) go above 212, like it's stuck or it does go above like idling in traffic, but never dumps boiling coolant? Have you changed pulley diameters that would alter the rate of coolant circulation? dp frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 2:33 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Hello Healeyphiles - I had a chance this morning to check the accuracy of my water temp gauge. Having gone through the agony of removing the gauge from the car the last time I checked it, I seriously re-thought that process. Although it made me very nervous to have an open flame anywhere near the engine bay, I was able to test the gauge in a pot of water at a rolling boil without removing the gauge (fire extinguisher handy!). I placed a wooden board spanning the fenders and sat a Coleman camp stove on top of that. After getting the water boiling in the kitchen, I transferred the pot to the camp stove for the actual test. The gauge went exactly to 212 stayed there for a 10-minute test without going any higher. A photo of the setup is available to anyone who wants it. So, since I live at sea level, the conclusion is that my gauge is exactly correct and any problem is elsewhere. For Dave Porter: I did the radiator drain test: First I back-flushed the radiator with the garden hose and captured the "first flow" water in a large bowl. There were only about five very small flakes of something visible. Then I plugged the lower hose connection and filled up the radiator with water. After removing the plug, I measured the draining time with a stopwatch. It took only 6 seconds for the radiator to drain completely. There is some damage to the radiator fins at the lower driver's side corner, caused by catching it on the wind deflector during removal of the radiator in the past. Because of the lower hose connection interfering with the frame cross-piece, the clearance here is very close. Relative to the undamaged area, I find it hard to believe this could in itself cause my overheating problem. However, I'll have the radiator checked out by a shop. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Sep 1 15:28:13 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 14:28:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> <1F852823-43BD-44BA-9A28-FBB0C6F1A0B8@cox.net> Message-ID: That Smitty kit arrived via UPS today. I was pleasantly surprised to find a prop shaft in the box. That's one less thing I'll need to buy. It'll be a while before I can even work on my car. I've got quite a honeydo list ahead of me. Wilko San Diego On Aug 24, 2010, at 3:13 PM, I Erbs wrote: > Let me know. You beat me > > >> On Aug 24, 2010 1:37 PM, "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" >> wrote: >> >> I won that auction for the Smitty kit for 686.00! >> >> I think that's a good deal. We'll see if the deal goes well and it >> is delivered. >> >> Wilko >> San Diego From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Sep 1 15:48:13 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 17:48:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: References: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <002201cb4a1f$60e5ddf0$22b199d0$@rr.com> No, it never goes above 212, even idling in traffic. It didn't go above 212 while motoring for hours through the California desert at 118 deg. ambient. It doesn't always go to 212, either. If I drive at night or early in the morning, it's more like 190. If it's a long trip, the gauge will rise with the ambient temperature and be up to 212 by the afternoon on a hot day in summer. It never dumps boiling coolant. I changed to an alternator in March, 2002, but all the other pulleys are the same. Nobody else with an alternator has had this problem as far as I am aware. msb -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 5:19 PM To: 'BJ8 Healeys'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread So, refresh my memory (it gets worse with age) does the gauge never (under driving circumstances) go above 212, like it's stuck or it does go above like idling in traffic, but never dumps boiling coolant? Have you changed pulley diameters that would alter the rate of coolant circulation? dp frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Sep 1 18:25:00 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 18:25:00 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread References: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> <002201cb4a1f$60e5ddf0$22b199d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the very least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't shut the engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue to rise after shut down.. I would still recommend that you buy or borrow an infra red laser aim-able and compare the temp of the hoses, head, thermostat housing, top and bottom of the radiator, etc. with what we now know to be accurate reading (up to 212F)gauge when everything is up to temp and running. If it's not steaming over and the bottom of the radiator is oh, ten degrees cooler than the top then you can relax and be happy. Efficient running is at or above 190F. anyway. The gauges are typically designed for most cars to run roughly in the middle. I think for cars that remained in England that was true, at the time, given the more moderate speeds and ambient temps. Here in the States with multiple climate zones it's not unusual for a Healey to run on the right side of normal...but not truly too hot. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com From ynotink at msn.com Wed Sep 1 18:25:44 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 00:25:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 In-Reply-To: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> References: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> Message-ID: YOU ARE DETHPICABLE! But don't forget the pics... Bill Lawrence > From: timwarduk at aol.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:17:37 +0100 > Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 > > Hi List > > Setting off on Thursday for the start of this year's EuroClassic. Starts In > Nurburg with a run up to Bonn and back via a town having a Wine festival > that day. Next day we drive the old Ring for a couple of laps if we want, > and then to Erfurt through lovely countryside. Then to Prague via Colditz > Castle and another circuit. Rest day in Prague to see the sights. After > which it is off to Ceske Budejovice, via the Brno circuit. After that we > drive to Kitzbuhel, but before leaving the Czech Republic we visit a small > town called Cesky Krumlov, which is a World Heritage town. Also visiting > the Abbey Admont and the Salzburgring Circuit. On to Merano in Italy via the > Grossglockner Pass and Lake Misurina. On the final day it is off to Lindau > on Lake Constance via the Stelvio Pass and Davos. > > > > How about that for a terrific route. > > > > Any Listers also doing the run I would be very happy to meet and share a > beer or two with. > > > > After I shall put a bunch of pictures on my web site, just to make you all > envious! > > > > Tim > > BJ8 '67 > > Frogeye '59 > > > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > > > www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk > > www.Shuttermagic.co.uk > > www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Sep 1 19:20:53 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 18:20:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Continuing_the_thermostat_thread?= Message-ID: <4c7efbe6.c879dc0a.4916.3dd1@mx.google.com> If it always runs on the right side of normal, would.nt that be the new normal??? Or did mean the correct side of normal.') Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave Porter" Date: Wed, Sep 1, 2010 5:25 pm Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" , : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the very least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't shut the engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue to rise after shut down.. I would still recommend that you buy or borrow an infra red laser aim-able and compare the temp of the hoses, head, thermostat housing, top and bottom of the radiator, etc. with what we now know to be accurate reading (up to 212F)gauge when everything is up to temp and running. If it's not steaming over and the bottom of the radiator is oh, ten degrees cooler than the top then you can relax and be happy. Efficient running is at or above 190F. anyway. The gauges are typically designed for most cars to run roughly in the middle. I think for cars that remained in England that was true, at the time, given the more moderate speeds and ambient temps. Here in the States with multiple climate zones it's not unusual for a Healey to run on the right side of normal...but not truly too hot. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Sep 1 19:36:05 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 18:36:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: References: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> <002201cb4a1f$60e5ddf0$22b199d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Not just Healeys. Any engine will have a temp spike after shut down as the coolant is no longer circulated, and all that built up heat is transmitted to the non-circulating coolant. This is called heat soak. It will be very evident on a big cast iron lump like a Healey engine. Less so on an aluminum block engine. Rick On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Dave Porter wrote: > : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread > > Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the very > least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't shut the > engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue to rise after > shut down.. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Sep 1 19:39:22 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 19:39:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: <4c7efbe6.c879dc0a.4916.3dd1@mx.google.com> References: <4c7efbe6.c879dc0a.4916.3dd1@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <292A57F9C7834099B8F7B97BA9B40F23@oscar> Both, Ira. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _____ From: eyera3 at gmail.com [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 7:21 PM To: Dave Porter; 'BJ8 Healeys'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread If it always runs on the right side of normal, would.nt that be the new normal??? Or did mean the correct side of normal.') Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave Porter" Date: Wed, Sep 1, 2010 5:25 pm Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" , : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the very least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't shut the engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue to rise after shut down.. I would still recommend that you buy or borrow an infra red laser aim-able and compare the temp of the hoses, head, thermostat housing, top and bottom of the radiator, etc. with what we now know to be accurate reading (up to 212F)gauge when everything is up to temp and running. If it's not steaming over and the bottom of the radiator is oh, ten degrees cooler than the top then you can relax and be happy. Efficient running is at or above 190F. anyway. The gauges are typically designed for most cars to run roughly in the middle. I think for cars that remained in England that was true, at the time, given the more moderate speeds and ambient temps. Here in the States with multiple climate zones it's not unusual for a Healey to run on the right side of normal...but not truly too hot. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Sep 1 19:59:52 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:59:52 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: References: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> <002201cb4a1f$60e5ddf0$22b199d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502BFAC9BAA@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day You can get around the problems caused by heat soak by installing an electric water pump, electric fan and sensor that continues to circulate the coolant until the required temperature is reached. As this would mean that the thermostat, mechanical water pump impeller and fan are removed you no longer have overheating problems at all. Have a look at http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps__EWP-content.aspx Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Thursday, 2 September 2010 11:36 AM To: Dave Porter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Not just Healeys. Any engine will have a temp spike after shut down as the coolant is no longer circulated, and all that built up heat is transmitted to the non-circulating coolant. This is called heat soak. It will be very evident on a big cast iron lump like a Healey engine. Less so on an aluminum block engine. Rick On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Dave Porter wrote: > : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread > > Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the > very least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't > shut the engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue > to rise after shut down.. ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 1 20:29:53 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 21:29:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 - early F.F. & NON PC !! In-Reply-To: References: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> Message-ID: <4C7F0C21.4070608@justbrits.com> Lemme see, Bill................... << *YOU ARE DETHPICABLE!* >> You DO have a problematic speech impediment but only with "S"s [generally known as a lisp]............ << *But don't forget the pics...* >> but not ALL the time ?!?!? Must admit, I have NEVER heard of that particular malady ?!? Do you know how RARE your 'type' is, percentage wise ??? Enquiring minds really need to know, please !!! Ed From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Wed Sep 1 23:04:12 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 22:04:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 - early F.F. & NON PC !! In-Reply-To: <4C7F0C21.4070608@justbrits.com> References: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> <4C7F0C21.4070608@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Who was the idiot that put the "s" in "lisp"? (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: "Healeys" Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 7:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 - early F.F. & NON PC !! > Lemme see, Bill................... > > << *YOU ARE DETHPICABLE!* >> > > You DO have a problematic speech impediment but only > with "S"s [generally known as a lisp]............ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 2 01:33:11 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:33:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: <4c7efbe6.c879dc0a.4916.3dd1@mx.google.com> References: <4c7efbe6.c879dc0a.4916.3dd1@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4C7F5337.7020107@chello.nl> The coolant temperature depends largely on the thermostat you are using in a healthy cooling system and under normal driving conditions, i.e. low temp. stat a low reading, high temp. stat high reading. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Thu Sep 2 05:25:13 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 06:25:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> References: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> Message-ID: hi steve, consider having your radiator recored with a modern core. my recored radiator cured the overheating problems i had after adding a/c to my BN6 several years ago. cheers, jerry On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 3:32 PM, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > Hello Healeyphiles - > > I had a chance this morning to check the accuracy of my water temp gauge. > Having gone through the agony of removing the gauge from the car the last > time I checked it, I seriously re-thought that process. Although it made > me > very nervous to have an open flame anywhere near the engine bay, I was able > to test the gauge in a pot of water at a rolling boil without removing the > gauge (fire extinguisher handy!). I placed a wooden board spanning the > fenders and sat a Coleman camp stove on top of that. After getting the > water boiling in the kitchen, I transferred the pot to the camp stove for > the actual test. The gauge went exactly to 212 stayed there for a > 10-minute test without going any higher. A photo of the setup is available > to anyone who wants it. > So, since I live at sea level, the conclusion is that my gauge is exactly > correct and any problem is elsewhere. > > For Dave Porter: I did the radiator drain test: First I back-flushed the > radiator with the garden hose and captured the "first flow" water in a > large > bowl. There were only about five very small flakes of something visible. > Then I plugged the lower hose connection and filled up the radiator with > water. After removing the plug, I measured the draining time with a > stopwatch. It took only 6 seconds for the radiator to drain completely. > There is some damage to the radiator fins at the lower driver's side > corner, > caused by catching it on the wind deflector during removal of the radiator > in the past. Because of the lower hose connection interfering with the > frame cross-piece, the clearance here is very close. Relative to the > undamaged area, I find it hard to believe this could in itself cause my > overheating problem. However, I'll have the radiator checked out by a > shop. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 2 07:38:56 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:38:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> References: <000e01cb4a14$dbdf0aa0$939d1fe0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4C7FA8F0.8080503@chello.nl> Steve, The temperature gauge will never go beyond 212:F as that is the temperature of boiling water, however long you will heat it, it will stay at 212:F at standard atmospheric pressure at sea level. It cannot rise any higher. Only when pressurized the water will go to a higher boiling point, see: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html So your gauge registered perfectly correct. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Thu Sep 2 20:44:40 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 02:44:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com>, Message-ID: I have a question about the "specially treated hardened interior surface" of the slave cylinder. Is there a source out there that explains this in greater detail? I always assumed that the aluminum was the same alloy/quality/hardness throughout. Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks, Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:14:50 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: CAWS52803 at aol.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question > > Rudy - > > You can't hone the slave cylinder - it is aluminum with a specially treated > hardened interior surface. If you hone it, it will only last for a few > months. > > If the interior surface is worn, the only solution is either to get a new > slave cylinder or have your old one sleeved with a Stainless Steel insert. > > Did you try bleeding the slave cylinder? > > I find just getting a new slave cylinder and putting it on is the best and > easiest way to go. And not too expensive. > > Alan > > On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 10:29 AM, wrote: > > > I have no clutch! The pedal goes to the metal! > > If I pump it 5 - 10 times, I might be able to shift it into gear. I'm not > > losing any fluid. Oh yes, it's a BN4 with separate clutch & brake fluid > > cylinders. > > I am going to remove, hone and replace the inner seals. > > My question - Is this something I should undertake myself? I do have the > > parts list and owners manuals for a guide. > > Any suggestions or help? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 22:05:24 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 21:05:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com>, Message-ID: <4C807404.7040608@comcast.net> Good question. I have always assumed the bores were treated, since they have a slick, shiny surface which isn't characteristic of untreated aluminum, which is usually porous and dull in appearance. A quick question to Mr. Google returned: http://www.ehow.com/how_5940980_rebuild-wheel-cylinder.html "Hone the inside of the wheel cylinder with a wheel cylinder hone, attached to an electric drill, if the cylinder is made of cast iron or steel. Aluminum wheel cylinders should never be honed. Aluminum wheel cylinders have a hard, protective, anodized surface inside to prevent corrosion. Honing will remove this surface and cause excessive corrosion and wear. Instead, clean the inside of the aluminum cylinder with soapy water and a green scotch-brite pad to remove debris that collects in the cylinder bore." I'm surprised the treatment is anodizing, because I always thought of that as a superficial treatment--not a hardening process--but apparently it does harden the surface. bs richard mayor wrote: > I have a question about the "specially treated hardened interior surface" of > the slave cylinder. Is there a source out there that explains this in greater > detail? I always assumed that the aluminum was the same alloy/quality/hardness > throughout. Inquiring minds want to know. > Thanks, > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 2 23:33:44 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 22:33:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: <4C807404.7040608@comcast.net> References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> <4C807404.7040608@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100902222842.01ffb5a0@pop.att.yahoo.com> I have honed many healey hydraulic cylinders only to find dirty brake fluid shortly thereafter damaged piston seals. Caused, no doubt, by honing the cylinders! No more honing! John At 09:05 PM 9/2/2010 -0700, you wrote: >Good question. > >I have always assumed the bores were treated, since they have a >slick, shiny surface which isn't characteristic of untreated >aluminum, which is usually porous and dull in appearance. >A quick question to Mr. Google returned: > >http://www.ehow.com/how_5940980_rebuild-wheel-cylinder.html > >.... Aluminum wheel cylinders should never be honed. Aluminum wheel >cylinders have a hard, protective, anodized surface inside to >prevent corrosion. Honing will remove this surface..... From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Sep 3 01:43:26 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 09:43:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com>, Message-ID: <4C80A71E.5020502@chello.nl> Anodizing is a chemical oxidation treatment of metal forming a hard, porous layer of oxide of about 10-255m on the surface. It is mainly used for aluminium, titanium to increase wearing and corrosion properties. The porous layer can be sealed to improve corrosion resistance. During the proces you can also add a color. Aluminium is anodized using sulphuric acid. If you clean and lightly polish the bores you will not damage the anodized surface. If you hone the bores of aluminium brake cylinders you may remove the hard layer. This is not always a problem but you need to polish the bores afterwards, although they will not last as long as new cylinders. Rebuild them using special brake/rubber lubricant. This will reduce corrosion and wear. However considering the effort it takes and the prices of the rebuild kits it is more efficient to get new cylinders altogether. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 01:59:36 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 09:59:36 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> Message-ID: Richard, the process is called hard anodising. One uses either sulphuric acid or chromic acid and applies a direct current with the object as anode. An oxide layer is formed - with hard anodising the thickness is between 25 and 50 micron. A red blood cell is approx. 8 micron in diameter, a strand of human hair approx 100 micron. Therefore you better don't hone an anodised cylinder! Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/9/3 richard mayor > I have a question about the "specially treated hardened interior surface" > of > the slave cylinder. Is there a source out there that explains this in > greater > detail? I always assumed that the aluminum was the same > alloy/quality/hardness > throughout. Inquiring minds want to know. > Thanks, > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > > > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:14:50 +0800 > > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > > To: CAWS52803 at aol.com > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question > > > > Rudy - > > > > You can't hone the slave cylinder - it is aluminum with a specially > treated > > hardened interior surface. If you hone it, it will only last for a few > > months. > > > > If the interior surface is worn, the only solution is either to get a new > > slave cylinder or have your old one sleeved with a Stainless Steel > insert. > > > > Did you try bleeding the slave cylinder? > > > > I find just getting a new slave cylinder and putting it on is the best > and > > easiest way to go. And not too expensive. > > > > Alan > > > > On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 10:29 AM, wrote: > > > > > I have no clutch! The pedal goes to the metal! > > > If I pump it 5 - 10 times, I might be able to shift it into gear. I'm > not > > > losing any fluid. Oh yes, it's a BN4 with separate clutch & brake > fluid > > > cylinders. > > > I am going to remove, hone and replace the inner seals. > > > My question - Is this something I should undertake myself? I do have > the > > > parts list and owners manuals for a guide. > > > Any suggestions or help? > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 02:17:44 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:17:44 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100902222842.01ffb5a0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> <4C807404.7040608@comcast.net> <6.2.3.4.2.20100902222842.01ffb5a0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Same here... and a honed cylinder will last about 3 months... On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 1:33 PM, john spaur wrote: > I have honed many healey hydraulic cylinders only to find dirty brake fluid > shortly thereafter damaged piston seals. Caused, no doubt, by honing the > cylinders! No more honing! > > John > > > At 09:05 PM 9/2/2010 -0700, you wrote: > >> Good question. >> >> I have always assumed the bores were treated, since they have a slick, >> shiny surface which isn't characteristic of untreated aluminum, which is >> usually porous and dull in appearance. >> A quick question to Mr. Google returned: >> >> http://www.ehow.com/how_5940980_rebuild-wheel-cylinder.html >> >> .... Aluminum wheel cylinders should never be honed. Aluminum wheel >> cylinders have a hard, protective, anodized surface inside to prevent >> corrosion. Honing will remove this surface..... >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 3 02:52:21 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 03:52:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: <4C80A71E.5020502@chello.nl> References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com>, <4C80A71E.5020502@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C80B745.7090100@justbrits.com> Just a FWIW, FYI, YMMV, yada-yada, & blah-blah: <> Kees hit the nail on the head !! One [1] of two [2] make it so, business wise even if you are working in cars as a "side job". Either one goes FAST and generally makes an error of one kind or another so that the cylinder does work or doesn't work properly [leaks being 1st thing to go bad] OR you go SO slow that one actually has SO much time in the cylinder that it has been paid for and now you can't CHARGE for your TIME. ergo, Kees being correct !! Also, the same 'theory' applies to a LOT of other jobs/parts on any car. Ed From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Sep 3 04:26:19 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 06:26:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C80CD4B.7010505@earthlink.net> Listers, Anyone know what the depth of the water jacket around the cylinders (3000 block) is suppose to be? I measured about 5 1/4 inches from the top of the block down to something solid. I'm sure that there's some variation in the castings, but if it's suppose to be 7 inches then I know I've got a good bit of crud in there. Bob Haskell 3000 MkI registrar richard mayor wrote: > Ray, Strippers are the metal cleaning businesses that acid dip (or whatever > they call it now) car bodies and other components to remove all rust and > corrosion. Any good engine builder knows where to have the proper cleaning > done. The best engine rebuilders have the equipment on site to do the job. The > problem is that a lot of so called "engine rebuilders" do a quick down and > dirty rebuild and never have the block properly cleaned ( or stripped). BTW, > there is no damage done to the engine block or cylinder head in this process. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon From raymead at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 10:11:38 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:11:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer? or tachometer cable? Message-ID: <840553607.1120486.1283530298588.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> hi all sometimes my tach, at idle, reads around 800rpm and other times it reads around 2,000rpm (so, once you accelerate, at times it reads the correct rpms, and at other times it seems to read about 2,000rpms too high).............. is it more likely to be the tach itself, or the cable???B B B any quick tests that your basic MECHANICAL IDIOT can do to eliminate one or the other? tks, ray (the mechanical idiot himself)!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 14:07:57 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:07:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer? or tachometer cable? In-Reply-To: <1167359664.858868.1283544337680.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1206313434.858956.1283544477843.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Probably in the tach itself. Usually, a problem in the cable manifests as a bouncy needle. Pull out the cable and sheath, clean both thoroughly, lightly lubricate the cable--some like grease, Ed likes graphite, some like nothing, I like silicone oil--and replace. If no change it's almost certainly in the tach. The cable turns a magnet, which couples to a metal cup/disk which rotates the needle. Anything sticks or hangs up the needle will misbehave. You could have had grease or oil work its way up the cable into the delicate mechanism and harden and/or mix with dust and turn to a low-grade glue. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA hi all sometimes my tach, at idle, reads around 800rpm and other times it reads around 2,000rpm (so, once you accelerate, at times it reads the correct rpms, and at other times it seems to read about 2,000rpms too high).............. is it more likely to be the tach itself, or the cable???B B B any quick tests that your basic MECHANICAL IDIOT can do to eliminate one or the other? tks, ray (the mechanical idiot himself)!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From ghess4 at cox.net Fri Sep 3 17:56:00 2010 From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:56:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared Message-ID: <12E28066194F4AB7A5CC46CCFEB4F2A5@GalePC> For all of you that are mechanically inclined and dealing with frozen fasteners: Penetrating Oils Compared Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil .......Average load None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Fri Sep 3 18:11:48 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 00:11:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Message-ID: Panasport does not make knock-off wheels. They make bolt on wheels. I have light weight racing Panasports on my BN7 racer. The wheels are 6"wide. You can safely run 185x15 - 70 series radials or 5.50 x 15 bias ply tires. The Panasports on my race car are lighter than 60 spoke wire wheels, but they are not DOT approved for highway use. You can buy Panasports approved for highway use in sizes 15 X 5.5" or 15 x 6", maybe even narrower - but why would you want to. Make sure you know the correct offset (back space) before you order. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 09:28:39 -0400 > From: jagwarman at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey > > In anyone installed a set of Panasport knock off wheels on a 3000 Healey. I > live on a rough highway and am looking for an improvement over the wire > wheels cause my loosens spokes. Curious about any handling differences and > wheel width since the panasports are wider. Also how large a tire can you > run on these for height but not so wide to stick out far past fenders? > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 3 18:34:10 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:34:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer? or tachometer cable? In-Reply-To: <1206313434.858956.1283544477843.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1206313434.858956.1283544477843.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C819402.6070100@justbrits.com> << Pull out the cable and sheath, clean both thoroughly, lightly lubricate the cable--some like grease, Ed likes graphite, some like nothing, I like silicone oil--and replace. >> TWO [2] reasons: 1st] Locksmith/Speedo Shop Owner said so 45+ years ago. 2nd] EVERYTHING you mentioned Bob, COLLECTS dirt !! ...........NOT a "friend" of the core !! Ed From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 20:28:54 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:28:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared In-Reply-To: <12E28066194F4AB7A5CC46CCFEB4F2A5@GalePC> References: <12E28066194F4AB7A5CC46CCFEB4F2A5@GalePC> Message-ID: I have seen this list over and over again. Based on my years of experience I have some serious doubts about the validity of this test. WD-40 cut the effort in half? Not in my experience. WD-40 is a lubricant not a rust buster, and not a very good one that. WD-40 is almost as good at cutting rust as PB Blaster? Again don't make me laugh. Liquid wrench? Never had that stuff work at all. Worthless IMHO The best stuff I have ever used is Maltby Rust dissolving penetrant. This stuff would actually dissolve the rust, and free up the parts. I have not been able to find it for years. We use PB Blaster at work for various stuck and rusted fasteners. Works great. I have not tried the acetone/ATF mix, I will have to give that a shot sometime. Rick On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Ghess4 wrote: > For all of you that are mechanically inclined and dealing with frozen > fasteners: > > Penetrating Oils Compared > > Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break > out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective > test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque > required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. > > Penetrating oil .......Average load > None ..................... 516 pounds > WD-40 .................... 238 pounds > PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds > Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds > Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds > ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 20:53:21 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 12:53:21 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't know anything about Panasport wheels. Many of us run the "minilite" replica wheels organised by Frank Karl in New Zealand. He used to ring all the major british car distributors, get orders, and run a batch once a year, manufactured by Aunger in NZ. They are based in an original 15 x 6 minilite, so they look "right". Over the years he has made them as bolt on, centre lock splined hub, and in both magnesium and aluminium. The magnesium bolt on ones are incredibly light and ate for racing only. I have the centre lock splined ones, because I'd replaced the splines etc and didn't want to redo everything to convert to bolt ons. Compromise. With the centrelock splined hubs, I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and therefore adjust the offset. The offset is perfect in the rear. Most 6 in rims available stick out of the front guards. Negative camber and a correcly made sanwich spacer can ensure the top of the wheel is inside the guard when running a 195 -205 width tyre. If that's too much hassle, there are 5.5 in minilite replica centre lock splined wheels available from a number of UK suppliers. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 01/09/2010, at 11:28 PM, Frederich Ficke wrote: > In anyone installed a set of Panasport knock off wheels on a 3000 > Healey. I > live on a rough highway and am looking for an improvement over the > wire > wheels cause my loosens spokes. Curious about any handling > differences and > wheel width since the panasports are wider. Also how large a tire > can you > run on these for height but not so wide to stick out far past fenders? > Thanks > _ From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 21:22:34 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:22:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <608545.79213.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> This them? http://maltbycompany.com/8401.html --- On Fri, 9/3/10, Richard Ewald wrote: > From: Richard Ewald > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared > To: "Ghess4" > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Friday, September 3, 2010, 10:28 PM > I have seen this list over and over > again. Based on my years of > experience I have some serious doubts about the validity of > this test. > WD-40 cut the effort in half? Not in my > experience. WD-40 is a > lubricant not a rust buster, and not a very good one that. > WD-40 is almost as good at cutting rust as PB > Blaster? Again don't > make me laugh. > Liquid wrench? Never had that stuff work at > all. Worthless IMHO > The best stuff I have ever used is Maltby Rust dissolving > penetrant. > This stuff would actually dissolve the rust, and free up > the parts. I > have not been able to find it for years. We use PB > Blaster at work > for various stuck and rusted fasteners. Works great. > I have not tried the acetone/ATF mix, I will have to give > that a shot sometime. > Rick > > On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Ghess4 > wrote: > > For all of you that are mechanically inclined and > dealing with frozen > > fasteners: > > > > Penetrating Oils Compared > > > > Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested > penetrates for break > > out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They > arranged a subjective > > test of all the popular penetrates with the control > being the torque > > required to remove the nut from a "scientifically > rusted" environment. > > > > Penetrating oil .......Average load > > None ..................... 516 pounds > > WD-40 .................... 238 pounds > > PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds > > Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds > > Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds > > ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 21:24:18 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 03:24:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2016282845.874142.1283570658100.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Chris, re: " ... I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and therefore adjust the offset..." I can't for the life of me visualize how this works ... got a diagram by any chance? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 21:49:24 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:49:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared In-Reply-To: <608545.79213.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <608545.79213.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: That is the stuff, but none of my industrial suppliers carry it any longer. Why I don't know. This stuff is awesome. Spray it on, let it set a bit, spray some more and a puddle of dissolved rust will drip off the fastener. R On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 8:22 PM, Greg Mandas wrote: > This them? > > http://maltbycompany.com/8401.html > > --- On Fri, 9/3/10, Richard Ewald wrote: > >> From: Richard Ewald >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared >> To: "Ghess4" >> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Friday, September 3, 2010, 10:28 PM >> I have seen this list over and over >> again. Based on my years of >> experience I have some serious doubts about the validity of >> this test. >> WD-40 cut the effort in half? Not in my >> experience. WD-40 is a >> lubricant not a rust buster, and not a very good one that. >> WD-40 is almost as good at cutting rust as PB >> Blaster? Again don't >> make me laugh. >> Liquid wrench? Never had that stuff work at >> all. Worthless IMHO >> The best stuff I have ever used is Maltby Rust dissolving >> penetrant. >> This stuff would actually dissolve the rust, and free up >> the parts. I >> have not been able to find it for years. We use PB >> Blaster at work >> for various stuck and rusted fasteners. Works great. >> I have not tried the acetone/ATF mix, I will have to give >> that a shot sometime. >> Rick >> >> On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Ghess4 >> wrote: >> > For all of you that are mechanically inclined and >> dealing with frozen >> > fasteners: >> > >> > Penetrating Oils Compared >> > >> > Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested >> penetrates for break >> > out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They >> arranged a subjective >> > test of all the popular penetrates with the control >> being the torque >> > required to remove the nut from a "scientifically >> rusted" environment. >> > >> > Penetrating oil .......Average load >> > None ..................... 516 pounds >> > WD-40 .................... 238 pounds >> > PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds >> > Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds >> > Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds >> > ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From mrjaja at cox.net Fri Sep 3 21:54:24 2010 From: mrjaja at cox.net (Udo Putzke) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:54:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey In-Reply-To: <2016282845.874142.1283570658100.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2016282845.874142.1283570658100.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3A9D428FEE3B4323B1AC827D52037BE6@FAHRSPASS1> Like this. Between the chrome spline adapter and the Wheel. Udo PUTZKES-FAHRSPASS -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 8:24 PM To: Chris Dimmock Cc: Frederich Ficke; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Chris, re: " ... I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and therefore adjust the offset..." I can't for the life of me visualize how this works ... got a diagram by any chance? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mrjaja at cox.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 16x7 wheels with Mustang and Nascar15.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of front positioning08.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Tire OE & new12.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 16x7 wheels with Mustang and Nascar12.JPG] From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 22:11:01 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 14:11:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey In-Reply-To: <2016282845.874142.1283570658100.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2016282845.874142.1283570658100.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <029D7877-BFE0-4281-A94A-2773CEC9760F@gmail.com> Hi Bob I don't have a drawing, but I'll try to explain... I'll capitalize the words inside and outside because I think that's where the confusion starts. Ok. Think of a bolt on rear wheel. You have a one piece wheel, and a hub it bolts onto. 2 things. Adding a spacer on the hub - which mates to the INSIdE of the wheel - will obviously move the wheel out. But with a centrelock wheel, we have 3 parts. The wheel has a steel splined hub, and an alloy "wheel" which are bolted together. Then it slides onto the splined hub. Unlike any one piece wheel, the minilite is a steel splined centre "hub" which bolts onto the OUTSIDE of the alloy rim centre (not the inside). The splined hub slides into the rim, from outside the rim, so the mating faces to assemble the wheel are on the OUTSIDE of the rim centre. Ie you have 3 pieces - your stub axle/ splined adaptor on your car - a splined steel hub centre - and a alloy rim. A spacer between the steel minilite wheel hub, and the OUTSIDE of the alloy wheel centre, moves the rim inwards, ie back inside the guard. Youre right Bob, a picture would help! I'll see what I can do.... Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 04/09/2010, at 1:24 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Chris, > > re: "... I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide > made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre > in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and > therefore adjust the offset..." > > > I can't for the life of me visualize how this works ... got a > diagram by any chance? > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Sep 3 22:18:19 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 06:18:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer? or tachometer cable? In-Reply-To: <840553607.1120486.1283530298588.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <840553607.1120486.1283530298588.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C81C88B.5020703@chello.nl> Tachometer needs a clean/rebuild. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 22:19:36 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 14:19:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey In-Reply-To: <3A9D428FEE3B4323B1AC827D52037BE6@FAHRSPASS1> References: <2016282845.874142.1283570658100.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <3A9D428FEE3B4323B1AC827D52037BE6@FAHRSPASS1> Message-ID: <0754E4CD-D478-4762-971F-F5D66583C2EC@gmail.com> Bob, look very closely at Udos last pic. Magnify it. There is a spacer between the outside of the rim and the chromed steel Hub. The spacer has a proud locating lip, just like mine. Thanks Udo Chris Sent from my iPhone On 04/09/2010, at 1:54 PM, "Udo Putzke" wrote: > Like this. Between the chrome spline adapter and the Wheel. > > Udo PUTZKES-FAHRSPASS > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 8:24 PM > To: Chris Dimmock > Cc: Frederich Ficke; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey > > Chris, > > re: " ... I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide > made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre > in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and > therefore adjust the offset..." > > > I can't for the life of me visualize how this works ... got a > diagram by any > chance? > > Bob From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Sep 4 03:52:58 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 11:52:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] ahead4healseys carpet Message-ID: Hi all Has anybody out there bought any Karvel carpet sets from ahead4healeys. I'm quite interested in a blue set but would be interested to have feedback on the product. Plus the blue looks a little light coloured in the image sample. cheers Derek www.healeysix.net From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Sat Sep 4 06:14:19 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 05:14:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages In-Reply-To: <8fe3f.7c1026be.39aff611@aol.com> References: <8fe3f.7c1026be.39aff611@aol.com> Message-ID: <203989.58946.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Which are the best 100-4 Web pages ?? Thanks, Jose Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: "ATIGHTPROD at aol.com" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, September 1, 2010 1:31:45 PM Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD's Just wanted to say a big thank you to all of you who ordered my DVD. Every order I received so far is now in the hands of the United States Postal Service and on its way to you. Please let me know if there are any problems with anything and I will do my best to get them resolved. Again, thank you all very much. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat Sep 4 07:01:29 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 13:01:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages In-Reply-To: <203989.58946.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <8fe3f.7c1026be.39aff611@aol.com>, <203989.58946.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jose: One of my favourite is the one of Didier Mongin from France, www.austin-healey.fr Jean > Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 05:14:19 -0700 > From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages > > Which are the best 100-4 Web pages ?? > > Thanks, > > Jose > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > > > > > ________________________________ > From: > "ATIGHTPROD at aol.com" > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: > Wed, September 1, 2010 1:31:45 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD's > > Just > wanted to say a big thank you to all of you who ordered my DVD. Every > order > I received so far is now in the hands of the United States Postal > Service > and on its way to you. Please let me know if there are any problems > with > anything and I will do my best to get them resolved. Again, thank you > all > very much. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From ggilliam at usol.com Sat Sep 4 07:37:01 2010 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 09:37:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand Message-ID: <8781b45d2160f8b4bfdef902d812ee44@usol.com> I hope all of the New Zealand contingent of the list are well and undamaged following the earth quake. From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 4 07:47:22 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 06:47:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Return to Bonneville DVD In-Reply-To: <96b1c.4b73ce4f.39acd850@aol.com> References: <96b1c.4b73ce4f.39acd850@aol.com> Message-ID: <844189.35545.qm@web110312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Re'cd DVD today: EXTREMELY professional; 16:9 format--fills screen, Dolby Audio; basically, I am impressed. Also a bonus DVD: Dinner presentation & questions and answers. You will be pleased if you ordered this. R From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 4 08:26:18 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 14:26:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey In-Reply-To: <029D7877-BFE0-4281-A94A-2773CEC9760F@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1458848202.882625.1283610378528.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Aha moment. This moves the wheel inward on the steel hub. Presumably, you need longer bolts/studs to attach the hub to the wheel? I got confused because the wire wheels I'm familiar with are 'one piece' (well, 74 pieces if you count the rim, the hub and all the spokes), and the inside of the wheel hub butts up against the base of the axle hub, so there's no way to move the wheel inward (you could probably tune the spokes to bring the wheel in, but there's not much clearance with the drums and calipers as it is). Obviously, there's still clearance between the wheel spokes and the drums or rotors? Thanks to Chris and Udo for taking the time and effort to explain--and illustrate--this. What a fantastic List. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Hi Bob I don't have a drawing, but I'll try to explain... I'll capitalize the words inside and outside because I think that's where the confusion starts. Ok. Think of a bolt on rear wheel. You have a one piece wheel, and a hub it bolts onto. 2 things. Adding a spacer on the hub - which mates to the INSIdE of the wheel - will obviously move the wheel out. But with a centrelock wheel, we have 3 parts. The wheel has a steel splined hub, and an alloy "wheel" which are bolted together. Then it slides onto the splined hub. Unlike any one piece wheel, the minilite is a steel splined centre "hub" which bolts onto the OUTSIDE of the alloy rim centre (not the inside). The splined hub slides into the rim, from outside the rim, so the mating faces to assemble the wheel are on the OUTSIDE of the rim centre. Ie you have 3 pieces - your stub axle/ splined adaptor on your car - a splined steel hub centre - and a alloy rim. A spacer between the steel minilite wheel hub, and the OUTSIDE of the alloy wheel centre, moves the rim inwards, ie back inside the guard. Youre right Bob, a picture would help! I'll see what I can do.... Best Chris From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Sep 4 08:47:11 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 22:47:11 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand In-Reply-To: <8781b45d2160f8b4bfdef902d812ee44@usol.com> References: <8781b45d2160f8b4bfdef902d812ee44@usol.com> Message-ID: Apparently some pictures of the carnage in an apartment has already made it to the internet, from only 20km from the epicenter. We can only hope their civilization can rebuild: http://i.imgur.com/9Ulk3.jpg Alan On Sat, Sep 4, 2010 at 9:37 PM, wrote: > > I hope all of the New Zealand contingent of the list are well and > undamaged following the earth quake. From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Sep 4 09:14:17 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 01:14:17 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages In-Reply-To: <203989.58946.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <8fe3f.7c1026be.39aff611@aol.com> <203989.58946.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Have a look at Larry Varley's site http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ Chris Sent from my iPhone On 04/09/2010, at 10:14 PM, JosC) Vicente Vargas wrote: > Which are the best 100-4 Web pages ?? > > Thanks, > > Jose > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > > > > > ________________________________ > From: > "ATIGHTPROD at aol.com" > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: > Wed, September 1, 2010 1:31:45 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD's > > Just > wanted to say a big thank you to all of you who ordered my DVD. Every > order > I received so far is now in the hands of the United States Postal > Service > and on its way to you. Please let me know if there are any problems > with > anything and I will do my best to get them resolved. Again, thank you > all > very much. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > _________________ From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sat Sep 4 11:53:50 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 19:53:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] ahead4healseys carpet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <88C26270-60B0-43A4-BC12-D246BE558B34@bornet.net> Although not an exact reproduction of the original Karvel, it's definitely the best I have seen currently on the market. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 4 sep 2010 kl. 11:52 skrev Derek Job : > Hi all > > Has anybody out there bought any Karvel carpet sets from ahead4healeys. > > I'm quite interested in a blue set but would be interested to have feedback > on the product. Plus the blue looks a little light coloured in the image > sample. > > cheers > > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net From rwil at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 4 15:34:01 2010 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 14:34:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages In-Reply-To: References: <8fe3f.7c1026be.39aff611@aol.com> <203989.58946.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I'll second that. Larry Varley's site is full of Healey Hundred data and history unavailable to me anywhere else. -Roland BN1 #724 On Sun, 5 Sep 2010 01:14:17 +1000, you wrote: ::Have a look at Larry Varley's site :: ::http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ :: ::Chris From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 4 17:59:41 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 16:59:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared In-Reply-To: References: <608545.79213.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <24871.36901.qm@web110308.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Richard Dryman To: Richard Ewald ; Greg Mandas Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 4, 2010 7:05:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared If you need it, just order it (this just recd after query): "We sell by the case only at $48 plus UPS shipping cost. We do not pad the shipping cost. The case consists of 12- 13 oz cans with the handy extension tubes. I will be back in the office Tuesday afternoon. Further information can be found at: www.maltbycompany.com . Thank You, Dorothy" From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 4 19:27:31 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 01:27:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump Message-ID: <1913805890.901515.1283650051104.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Listers, I'm most familiar with BJ8 fuel pumps--being able to assemble at least two working units out of a large collection of parts at any given time--but I'm having trouble with a BN2 fuel pump. The BJ8 pumps have a valve body with two thin reed-type valves--one on the suction side and one on the pressure side (they are set up differently, of course, but I believe the valves are the same). Anyway, my BJ8 pumps a few times when energized and settles into a steady rhythm of a pump every 5-6 seconds with the engine not running. With the engine running, the pump speeds up according to engine speed; a pump every 2-3 seconds at idle, a couple pumps a second during acceleration, and a steady pump every 1-2 seconds at cruise. Very logical. Our BN2's pump--a brand new SU electronic--is a different design. There is only one valve--a brass disk, basically--on the output side and nothing on the suction/inlet side (it almost seems like it's supposed to siphon as much as pump). This pump behaves erratically--it'll pump rapidly when the key comes on, and seems to settle down but then starts pumping erratically. It pumps almost continuously with the engine running--the engine runs fine, BTW--but it's still an erratic continuous. Is this typical for the BN2 pump? It appears this design is way inferior to the BJ8 pump design--in spite of the lovely brass machine work inside--and I'm glad to see SU improved the design (and probably make it cheaper, to boot), but it doesn't seem right to me. I haven't ruled out air leaks, but we've checked, tightened, and checked and tightened again and nothing seems to change. Not having a reverse-flow preventing valve on the inlet side just don't seem right, somehow. All info, SWAGs, etc. accepted/appreciated. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Sep 4 21:43:25 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 11:43:25 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <1913805890.901515.1283650051104.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1913805890.901515.1283650051104.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - I can't say offhand because my BN1 has had a KIWI plastic pump on it since I bought the car. That being said, here's a breakdown of your pump online: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/SUpumpClassic.aspx?ProductId=26731 Do the parts match? Alan On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 9:27 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > I'm most familiar with BJ8 fuel pumps--being able to assemble at least two working units out of a large collection of parts at any given time--but I'm having trouble with a BN2 fuel pump. The BJ8 pumps have a valve body with two thin reed-type valves--one on the suction side and one on the pressure side (they are set up differently, of course, but I believe the valves are the same). Anyway, my BJ8 pumps a few times when energized and settles into a steady rhythm of a pump every 5-6 seconds with the engine not running. With the engine running, the pump speeds up according to engine speed; a pump every 2-3 seconds at idle, a couple pumps a second during acceleration, and a steady pump every 1-2 seconds at cruise. Very logical. > > Our BN2's pump--a brand new SU electronic--is a different design. There is only one valve--a brass disk, basically--on the output side and nothing on the suction/inlet side (it almost seems like it's supposed to siphon as much as pump). This pump behaves erratically--it'll pump rapidly when the key comes on, and seems to settle down but then starts pumping erratically. It pumps almost continuously with the engine running--the engine runs fine, BTW--but it's still an erratic continuous. > > Is this typical for the BN2 pump? It appears this design is way inferior to the BJ8 pump design--in spite of the lovely brass machine work inside--and I'm glad to see SU improved the design (and probably make it cheaper, to boot), but it doesn't seem right to me. I haven't ruled out air leaks, but we've checked, tightened, and checked and tightened again and nothing seems to change. Not having a reverse-flow preventing valve on the inlet side just don't seem right, somehow. > > All info, SWAGs, etc. accepted/appreciated. > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 4 22:00:19 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 04:00:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <661253602.904563.1283659219684.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Yep, except we have electronics instead of points. Note only one valve. bs Bob - I can't say offhand because my BN1 has had a KIWI plastic pump on it since I bought the car. That being said, here's a breakdown of your pump online: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/SUpumpClassic.aspx?ProductId=26731 Do the parts match? Alan From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Sep 5 04:58:27 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 20:58:27 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! Message-ID: There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the Healey, with your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, (note to self - 65psi on the oil pressure guage, 185 on the temperature guage) - and an amazing exhaust note...... what more could a man want!!! The Healey ran like charm. Geez I've missed this kind of living!!! It was a lovely sunny day - but very windy. We all had a great day, both a bit sunburnt/ windburned, a bit tired, but bloody happy. Just wanted to share. Chris. P.S. I'd also like to apologise to the guy in the white 5.7 litre V8 holden (who was hogging the fast lane). I knocked the Healey out of overdrive and booted it to pass him. He became a small spot in my mirrors up a really long hill. Best of all - as I went past - the look on his face was PRICELESS!!! :-) Sent from my iPhone From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Sep 5 06:48:54 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 08:48:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Chris, Sounds like you had a wonderful day. One point though....I don't know what gearing, tires or overdrive ratio you are running but 70 MPH should be at about 3000 RPM, not 4000. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Chris Dimmock" Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 6:58 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! > There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the Healey, > with your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. > Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, (note to > self - 65psi on the oil pressure guage, 185 on the temperature guage) - > and an amazing exhaust note...... what more could a man want!!! > The Healey ran like charm. > Geez I've missed this kind of living!!! > It was a lovely sunny day - but very windy. > We all had a great day, both a bit sunburnt/ windburned, a bit tired, but > bloody happy. > Just wanted to share. > Chris. > P.S. > I'd also like to apologise to the guy in the white 5.7 litre V8 holden > (who was hogging the fast lane). > I knocked the Healey out of overdrive and booted it to pass him. > He became a small spot in my mirrors up a really long hill. > Best of all - as I went past - the look on his face was PRICELESS!!! > :-) > > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Sep 5 08:06:07 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 00:06:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8330F89D-6610-4020-B9AD-AAD17C18B5B4@gmail.com> Ok Rich. You got me. One of those numbers is clearly wrong..... ;-) But I know it was 5,800 rpm in direct top after I passed the clown in the 5.7 v8, when flicked back into overdrive.... I'm sure that's under the legal limit. Isn't it?? ;-) Actually - as an aside - one of the guys had a new 6.2 litre v8 HSV commodore there. They claim 550NM of torque. I said that's pretty good, but not very efficent. He said - What? I explained my maths - having nearly 340 NM of torque (at the rear wheels) http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html from a 3 litre 6 Healey, weighing around half the weight of his 6.2 litre..... Hence the overtake, up a 2 mile hill, on one of his lesser torqued mates...... Geez, the things I do to ensure the respect for the marque! Fun. ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 05/09/2010, at 10:48 PM, "Rich C" wrote: > Chris, > > Sounds like you had a wonderful day. One point though....I don't > know what gearing, tires or overdrive ratio you are running but 70 > MPH should be at about 3000 RPM, not 4000. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Chris Dimmock" > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 6:58 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! > >> There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the >> Healey, with your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. >> Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, >> (note to self - 65psi on the oil pressure guage, 185 on the >> temperature guage) - and an amazing exhaust note...... what more >> could a man want!!! >> The Healey ran like charm. >> Geez I've missed this kind of living!!! >> It was a lovely sunny day - but very windy. >> We all had a great day, both a bit sunburnt/ windburned, a bit >> tired, but bloody happy. >> Just wanted to share. >> Chris. >> P.S. >> I'd also like to apologise to the guy in the white 5.7 litre V8 >> holden (who was hogging the fast lane). >> I knocked the Healey out of overdrive and booted it to pass him. >> He became a small spot in my mirrors up a really long hill. >> Best of all - as I went past - the look on his face was PRICELESS!!! >> :-) From warthodson at aol.com Sun Sep 5 08:23:31 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:23:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: References: <1913805890.901515.1283650051104.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD1B1D0CA8B92C-1C60-185E5@webmail-m026.sysops.aol.com> Bob, The diagram in the link below shows two valve disks. Does your pump have both? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 10:43 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump Bob - I can't say offhand because my BN1 has had a KIWI plastic pump on it ince I bought the car. That being said, here's a breakdown of your pump online: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/SUpumpClassic.aspx?ProductId=26731 Do the parts match? Alan From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Sep 5 08:35:05 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:35:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <661253602.904563.1283659219684.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <661253602.904563.1283659219684.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C83AA99.8070205@earthlink.net> Bob, The HP pump you're working with and the later LCS (square body) pump have just one valve. The two HP pumps I have (points and electronic) both have two valve discs (p/n 29 on the parts diagram on the SU carb site that Alan sent). One is in the top of the valve body (p/n 33) held in with a bent wire spring (p/n 32) - delivery valve. The other sits below the valve body - suction valve. I don't understand why your pump only has one disc. The period workshop manual I have states that the pump should go at least 15 seconds between pumps when dead headed. See the fault diagnostics on page 78 of the SU Carb Manual on John Sim's site for some additional info: http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/Su%20Carb%20Manual.pdf. How it works (I had a pump apart): When the coil is energized, the diaphragm (p/n 1) moves away from the pump body - the suction stroke. The top valve disc gets sucked down and that blocks the line to the carbs. Fuel gets sucked from the fuel tank, through the filter and the valve body, and into the chamber formed by the diaphragm and the round aluminum body piece (p/n 39). When the rocker/points assembly throws over, the coil is de-energized. The spring (p/n 3) pushes the diaphragm back pushing the fuel back into the valve body. The pressure forces the lower valve disc to seal against its seat and the upper disc to move away from its seat, pushing the fuel towards the carbs. Cheers, Bob Haskell 3000 MkI Registrar Bob Spidell wrote: > Yep, except we have electronics instead of points. Note only one valve. > > bs From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Sep 5 09:15:33 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 15:15:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Message-ID: >From "Bring a Trailer": http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1934416382.html Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Sep 5 09:40:27 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 10:40:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <04FBC061BAFB48A4B6C4E25259DF6512@GregPC> Yikes, They've taken a 100 and made it look like a box Sprite! Haven't seen that one before, but yes worth a "gander" if solid underneath. Greg Lemon From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Sep 5 10:01:14 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 16:01:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: <04FBC061BAFB48A4B6C4E25259DF6512@GregPC> References: , <04FBC061BAFB48A4B6C4E25259DF6512@GregPC> Message-ID: Hey! Hey, now! I think 'box' Sprites take exception to being called 'box Sprites'!! ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > > Yikes, They've taken a 100 and made it look like a box Sprite! Haven't seen > that one before, but yes worth a "gander" if solid underneath. > > Greg Lemon From shop at justbrits.com Sun Sep 5 10:26:35 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 11:26:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: References: , <04FBC061BAFB48A4B6C4E25259DF6512@GregPC> Message-ID: <4C83C4BB.6060304@justbrits.com> Shoot RD, you can't even get your indignity right !!! << I think 'box' Sprites take exception to being called 'box Sprites'!! >> SHOULD read: "I think a garage full of 'box' Sprites take........" Tsk, tsk !! Ed From 55healey at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 10:28:15 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:28:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order Message-ID: I was wondering if there are enough local Cascade members that would like to go in on ordering a case of this stuff. It sounds great but I have no idea of what I would do with 12 cans. I would order a case and pass the stuff on to others at my cost if there were enough people interested. Thanks, Rob Westcott (425) 644 - 9590 Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 4, 2010 7:05:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared If you need it, just order it (this just recd after query): "We sell by the case only at $48 plus UPS shipping cost. We do not pad the shipping cost. The case consists of 12- 13 oz cans with the handy extension tubes. I will be back in the office Tuesday afternoon. Further information can be found at: www.maltbycompany.com . Thank You, Dorothy" _________ From jagxk120 at gmail.com Sun Sep 5 10:35:24 2010 From: jagxk120 at gmail.com (Bob) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 18:35:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C83C6CC.7030907@gmail.com> Less than that in an E-type. 120 KPH - 3000rpm B Le 05/09/10 14:48, Rich C a icrit : > > Chris, > > Sounds like you had a wonderful day. One point though....I don't know what > gearing, tires or overdrive ratio you are running but 70 MPH should be at > about 3000 RPM, not 4000. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Chris Dimmock" > >> There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the Healey, with >> your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. >> Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, ( From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 5 10:45:56 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:45:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: <8330F89D-6610-4020-B9AD-AAD17C18B5B4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <20100905124556.EMLNK.302591.root@pamxwww01-z01> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. OK---flame suit on. tom ---- Chris Dimmock wrote: ============= Ok Rich. You got me. One of those numbers is clearly wrong..... ;-) But I know it was 5,800 rpm in direct top after I passed the clown in the 5.7 v8, when flicked back into overdrive.... I'm sure that's under the legal limit. Isn't it?? ;-) Actually - as an aside - one of the guys had a new 6.2 litre v8 HSV commodore there. They claim 550NM of torque. I said that's pretty good, but not very efficent. He said - What? I explained my maths - having nearly 340 NM of torque (at the rear wheels) http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html from a 3 litre 6 Healey, weighing around half the weight of his 6.2 litre..... Hence the overtake, up a 2 mile hill, on one of his lesser torqued mates...... Geez, the things I do to ensure the respect for the marque! Fun. ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 05/09/2010, at 10:48 PM, "Rich C" wrote: > Chris, > > Sounds like you had a wonderful day. One point though....I don't > know what gearing, tires or overdrive ratio you are running but 70 > MPH should be at about 3000 RPM, not 4000. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Chris Dimmock" > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 6:58 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! > >> There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the >> Healey, with your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. >> Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, >> (note to self - 65psi on the oil pressure guage, 185 on the >> temperature guage) - and an amazing exhaust note...... what more >> could a man want!!! >> The Healey ran like charm. >> Geez I've missed this kind of living!!! >> It was a lovely sunny day - but very windy. >> We all had a great day, both a bit sunburnt/ windburned, a bit >> tired, but bloody happy. >> Just wanted to share. >> Chris. >> P.S. >> I'd also like to apologise to the guy in the white 5.7 litre V8 >> holden (who was hogging the fast lane). >> I knocked the Healey out of overdrive and booted it to pass him. >> He became a small spot in my mirrors up a really long hill. >> Best of all - as I went past - the look on his face was PRICELESS!!! >> :-) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 5 10:59:46 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:59:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day. Message-ID: <20100905125946.JIVZ2.139511.root@pamxwww02-z01> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey pulls these hills nicely, it is not as aggressive on them as the E-Type (not close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. OK---flame suit on. tom ---- Chris Dimmock wrote: ============= Ok Rich. You got me. One of those numbers is clearly wrong..... ;-) But I know it was 5,800 rpm in direct top after I passed the clown in the 5.7 v8, when flicked back into overdrive.... From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Sep 5 11:02:58 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 17:02:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: <4C83C4BB.6060304@justbrits.com> References: , , <04FBC061BAFB48A4B6C4E25259DF6512@GregPC>, , <4C83C4BB.6060304@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Perhaps, but I think my signature said half of it ... But,if anyone really wants to see the more of the madness, you just shorten the url below to: www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp and you can browse through the images. ( or you could take the temp off too and see the now abandoned poor attempt at a website ... ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 11:26:35 -0500 > From: shop at justbrits.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander > > Shoot RD, you can't even get your indignity right !!! > > << I think 'box' Sprites take exception to being called 'box Sprites'!! >> > > SHOULD read: "I think a garage full of 'box' Sprites take........" > > Tsk, tsk !! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Sep 5 12:42:57 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 13:42:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: References: , <04FBC061BAFB48A4B6C4E25259DF6512@GregPC> Message-ID: Hey my first car was a post bugeye Sprite, my second car was Sprite with an external trunk lid, if you don't call them "b$# Sprites" what do you call them? From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Sep 5 13:02:03 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:02:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <165398.63396.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Only gander I'd give it is Gander Bay. I like how it's listed as a 100 L. Apparently it is the model BEFORE Donald got it right with the M. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 9/5/10, Robert Duquette wrote: From: Robert Duquette Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander To: "Healeys" Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 11:15 AM >From "Bring a Trailer": http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1934416382.html Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From jmcd206 at msn.com Sun Sep 5 14:19:22 2010 From: jmcd206 at msn.com (Jim McDermott) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 13:19:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rob, I would take a couple of cans. Jim McDermott > From: 55healey at comcast.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:28:15 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order > > I was wondering if there are enough local Cascade members that would > like to go in on ordering a case of this stuff. It sounds great but I > have no idea of what I would do with 12 cans. > I would order a case and pass the stuff on to others at my cost if > there were enough people interested. > > Thanks, > > Rob Westcott > > (425) 644 - 9590 > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, September 4, 2010 7:05:52 PM > Subject: Re: > [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared > > > If you need it, just order it (this just > recd after query): > > "We sell by the case only at $48 plus UPS shipping cost. > We do not pad the > shipping cost. The case consists of 12- 13 oz cans with > the handy extension > tubes. > > > I will be back in the office Tuesday afternoon. > Further information can be found at: www.maltbycompany.com . > > Thank You, > Dorothy" > _________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmcd206 at msn.com From mslechta at chartermi.net Sun Sep 5 15:41:23 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 16:41:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rob ~ I'll take some too. If they don't well, I'll take 2 cans. If they go fast, I'll take just one. Thanks, Mad Mike, Cottage Grove, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim McDermott To: 55healey at comcast.net ; Austin_Healey Healey_Net Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 3:19 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] penetrating oil order Rob, I would take a couple of cans. Jim McDermott > From: 55healey at comcast.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:28:15 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order > > I was wondering if there are enough local Cascade members that would > like to go in on ordering a case of this stuff. It sounds great but I > have no idea of what I would do with 12 cans. > I would order a case and pass the stuff on to others at my cost if > there were enough people interested. > > Thanks, > > Rob Westcott > > (425) 644 - 9590 > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, September 4, 2010 7:05:52 PM > Subject: Re: > [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared > > > If you need it, just order it (this just > recd after query): > > "We sell by the case only at $48 plus UPS shipping cost. > We do not pad the > shipping cost. The case consists of 12- 13 oz cans with > the handy extension > tubes. > > > I will be back in the office Tuesday afternoon. > Further information can be found at: www.maltbycompany.com . > > Thank You, > Dorothy" > _________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmcd206 at msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 16:26:25 2010 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (Mike Brouillette) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:26:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Who was in the maroon 3000 enjoying a sunny day in Rye NH? In-Reply-To: <8330F89D-6610-4020-B9AD-AAD17C18B5B4@gmail.com> References: <8330F89D-6610-4020-B9AD-AAD17C18B5B4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <77448863EB70497DBD7384D7FFE9124A@Healey> Beautiful day in New Hampshire today that I decided to go for a drive up the coast in a non Healey, but was curious who was in that beautiful maroon 3000 enjoying a sunny day in Rye NH? Mike Brouillette 59 BT7 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 5 17:04:04 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 07:04:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day. In-Reply-To: <20100905125946.JIVZ2.139511.root@pamxwww02-z01> References: <20100905125946.JIVZ2.139511.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: Chris Dimmock's Healey is race prepared... On 9/6/10, Tom Felts wrote: > OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. > I live > in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey > pulls > these hills nicely, it is not as aggressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), > and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. > > My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. > > OK---flame suit on. > > tom > > ---- Chris Dimmock wrote: > > ============= > Ok Rich. > You got me. One of those numbers is clearly wrong..... > ;-) > But I know it was 5,800 rpm in direct top after I passed the clown in > the 5.7 v8, when flicked back into overdrive.... > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From shop at justbrits.com Sun Sep 5 17:56:01 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 18:56:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day. In-Reply-To: References: <20100905125946.JIVZ2.139511.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: <4C842E11.8080903@justbrits.com> Aaaaaah, geesh Alan ...................... << Chris Dimmock's Healey is race prepared... >> Ya let the 'cat outta da bag' for poor Tom !!! LOL !! Ed From fmags at cox.net Sun Sep 5 18:05:50 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 19:05:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] odd noise and rough running Message-ID: <76A57BE4F73B4861A1378828C9AEA35A@FrankPC> A strange thing happened on the way home yesterday. I was going 50-55 or so and decided not to switch into OD as I only had a couple miles to go; normally I run around 3000 rpm; but wirthout the OD it was around 3500. All of a sudden I heard this whizzing noise like two gears not quite meshing; something rotating coming into contact with something else anyway and the car started running very rough. Stalled it approaching a stop sign which I decided to run and dropped it into second and popped the clutch and got it running again. The noise went away after 10-15 seconds. Still running crappy as I got into the driveway. But a little better and well enough to let it run unattended while I put the garage door up. Now running better; decided to run it around the block and low and behold; ran fine and everyhting sounded normal. The only thing that was different weas that the tach read around 1500 and clearly it sounded like my normal idle at around 1000 or less. This morning I looked it over, water pump, generator, and distributor all looked good with no play in anything; cap and rotor looked fine as well. Drove around the block for 5 miles or so up to 4,000 rpm in and out of OD; running normally. The only thing that makes sense to me is the distributor and I wonder if the odd rpm reading when it gets hot is a clue; condensor, coil?. But I can't figure out what the noise was. Anybody have any ideas? thanks, Frank '65 BJ8 Wichita, KS. From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 5 19:04:20 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 21:04:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day. In-Reply-To: <4C842E11.8080903@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <20100905210420.SRNVH.143633.root@pamxwww02-z01> No disrespect to Chris or his car, but that has to be one fast Healey and not a Nasty Boy at that---is it? As I was thinking this over, I was thinking how fast my wifes 545I BMW is and somehow just can't imagine a Healey pulling away from it on an incline and it isn't a 5.6L----but what do I know? Cheers Tom ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: ============= Aaaaaah, geesh Alan ...................... << Chris Dimmock's Healey is race prepared... >> Ya let the 'cat outta da bag' for poor Tom !!! LOL !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Sep 5 19:10:10 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:10:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: <165398.63396.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <165398.63396.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It was removed by seller. Never saw it I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Sep 5, 2010, at 12:02 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Only gander I'd give it is Gander Bay. I like how it's listed as a > 100 L. > Apparently it is the model BEFORE Donald got it right with the M. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Sun, 9/5/10, Robert Duquette > wrote: > > From: Robert Duquette > Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander > To: "Healeys" > Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 11:15 AM > >> From "Bring a Trailer": > > > > http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1934416382.html > > > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Sep 5 19:44:07 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 21:44:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: References: <165398.63396.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41C939D957FC47E7B0224964FB5A144A@LIFEBOOK> I didn't see it either. Anybody get any numbers? Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar -------------------------------------------------- From: "I Erbs" Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:10 PM To: "HealeyRick" Cc: "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander > It was removed by seller. Never saw it > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > On Sep 5, 2010, at 12:02 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > >> Only gander I'd give it is Gander Bay. I like how it's listed as a 100 >> L. >> Apparently it is the model BEFORE Donald got it right with the M. >> >> Rick >> >> >> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo >> >> --- On Sun, 9/5/10, Robert Duquette wrote: >> >> From: Robert Duquette >> Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander >> To: "Healeys" >> Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 11:15 AM >> >>> From "Bring a Trailer": >> >> >> >> http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1934416382.html >> >> >> >> Robert Duquette >> Ottawa ON Canada >> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) >> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) >> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) >> >> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 5 19:46:10 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:46:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight In-Reply-To: <20100905210420.SRNVH.143633.root@pamxwww02-z01> References: <20100905210420.SRNVH.143633.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: <206914.23496.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> An 1964 AH3000,red, is in the Masterpiece Mystery "The Dead of Winter" [Inspector Lewis] on PBS listed to be shown tonight, 9-5 at 9pmEDT. May be shown at another time in other places. Shown at about 10 min mark into show; still watching so don't know if it is there again. The top was down in this one. >>> http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/lewis/deadofwinter.html From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 5 20:03:27 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 10:03:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day. In-Reply-To: <20100905210420.SRNVH.143633.root@pamxwww02-z01> References: <4C842E11.8080903@justbrits.com> <20100905210420.SRNVH.143633.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: Well, if you are first off the line, you can usually lead the pack. Here are Chris's specs: http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html Not all of his power ratings are at the rear wheels. Alan On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 9:04 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > No disrespect to Chris or his car, but that has to be one fast Healey and not a Nasty Boy at that---is it? > > As I was thinking this over, I was thinking how fast my wifes 545I BMW is and somehow just can't imagine a Healey pulling away from it on an incline and it isn't a 5.6L----but what do I know? > > Cheers > Tom > > ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: > > ============= > Aaaaaah, geesh Alan ...................... > > << Chris Dimmock's Healey is race prepared... >> > > Ya let the 'cat outta da bag' for poor Tom !!! LOL !! > > Ed From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 20:37:55 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 19:37:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] odd noise and rough running In-Reply-To: <76A57BE4F73B4861A1378828C9AEA35A@FrankPC> References: <76A57BE4F73B4861A1378828C9AEA35A@FrankPC> Message-ID: <4C845403.2030006@comcast.net> This is just a SWAG, but could the rotor have contacted the terminals inside the distributor cap? I have, on at least one occasion, left one of the clips off the cap and the cap was tilted slightly, but it didn't make any sound--if it had been tilted much more I'm sure it would have made some noise. bs Frank Magnusson wrote: > A strange thing happened on the way home yesterday. I was going 50-55 or so > and decided not to switch into OD as I only had a couple miles to go; normally > I run around 3000 rpm; but wirthout the OD it was around 3500. All of a > sudden I heard this whizzing noise like two gears not quite meshing; something > rotating coming into contact with something else anyway and the car started > running very rough. Stalled it approaching a stop sign which I decided to run > and dropped it into second and popped the clutch and got it running again. > The noise went away after 10-15 seconds. Still running crappy as I got into > the driveway. But a little better and well enough to let it run unattended > while I put the garage door up. Now running better; decided to run it around > the block and low and behold; ran fine and everyhting sounded normal. The > only thing that was different weas that the tach read around 1500 and clearly > it sounded like my normal idle at around 1000 or less. > > This morning I looked it over, water pump, generator, and distributor all > looked good with no play in anything; cap and rotor looked fine as well. > Drove around the block for 5 miles or so up to 4,000 rpm in and out of OD; > running normally. > > The only thing that makes sense to me is the distributor and I wonder if the > odd rpm reading when it gets hot is a clue; condensor, coil?. But I can't > figure out what the noise was. > > Anybody have any ideas? > > thanks, > Frank > '65 BJ8 > Wichita, KS. > > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Sun Sep 5 20:48:26 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:48:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight In-Reply-To: <206914.23496.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <20100905210420.SRNVH.143633.root@pamxwww02-z01> <206914.23496.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It was there with a louvered hood. Bob Johnson BJ8 On Sep 5, 2010 10:04 PM, "Richard Dryman" wrote: An 1964 AH3000,red, is in the Masterpiece Mystery "The Dead of Winter" [Inspector Lewis] on PBS listed to be shown tonight, 9-5 at 9pmEDT. May be shown at another time in other places. Shown at about 10 min mark into show; still watching so don't know if it is there again. The top was down in this one. >>> http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/lewis/deadofwinter.html _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8 at gmail.com From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun Sep 5 20:53:09 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:53:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?penetrating_oils?= Message-ID: <20100906025309.21080.qmail@server278.com> since acetone is highly volatile and would evaporate quickly, what is its function in the 50/50 mix? hjim From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 5 21:27:02 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:27:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oils In-Reply-To: <20100906025309.21080.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100906025309.21080.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: I would suggest the acetone acts as a wetting agent, overcoming the surface tension in ATF, allowing the oil to creep into the cracks. Then it evaporates leaving the ATF. I would assume you should use modern ATF for this purpose, and avoid ATF like Type F or Type A which doesn't have friction modifiers. Alan On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 10:53 AM, wrote: > since acetone is highly volatile and would evaporate quickly, what is its function in the 50/50 mix? hjim From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sun Sep 5 23:35:14 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 07:35:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Message-ID: <78994FC512664DF091396691C92A07E0@tm> Hello Rich, Follow the BaT link: http://tinyurl.com/2v6r9bx But the Craiglist listing is gone.. No numbers, sorry.. Best, Tadek Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 21:44:07 -0400 From: "Rich C" Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander To: "I Erbs" , "HealeyRick" Cc: Healeys Message-ID: <41C939D957FC47E7B0224964FB5A144A at LIFEBOOK> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response I didn't see it either. Anybody get any numbers? Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar From fmags at cox.net Mon Sep 6 08:00:14 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 09:00:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] odd noise and rough running In-Reply-To: <4C845403.2030006@comcast.net> References: <76A57BE4F73B4861A1378828C9AEA35A@FrankPC> <4C845403.2030006@comcast.net> Message-ID: I was wondering that as well. I had just had the cap off a few weeks before but had run the car several times with no problems. There is a slight bit of play between the metal finger on the rotor and the bakelite rotor itself where the two are attached with a rivit, but that play was there before. I didn't look closely at the contacts inside the cap; I'll take a lolok at that this morning. thanks, Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "Frank Magnusson" Cc: Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:37 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] odd noise and rough running > This is just a SWAG, but could the rotor have contacted the terminals > inside the distributor cap? I have, on at least one occasion, left one of > the clips off the cap and the cap was tilted slightly, but it didn't make > any sound--if it had been tilted much more I'm sure it would have made > some noise. > > bs > > > > Frank Magnusson wrote: >> A strange thing happened on the way home yesterday. I was going 50-55 or >> so >> and decided not to switch into OD as I only had a couple miles to go; >> normally >> I run around 3000 rpm; but wirthout the OD it was around 3500. All of a >> sudden I heard this whizzing noise like two gears not quite meshing; >> something >> rotating coming into contact with something else anyway and the car >> started >> running very rough. Stalled it approaching a stop sign which I decided >> to run >> and dropped it into second and popped the clutch and got it running >> again. >> The noise went away after 10-15 seconds. Still running crappy as I got >> into >> the driveway. But a little better and well enough to let it run >> unattended >> while I put the garage door up. Now running better; decided to run it >> around >> the block and low and behold; ran fine and everyhting sounded normal. >> The >> only thing that was different weas that the tach read around 1500 and >> clearly >> it sounded like my normal idle at around 1000 or less. >> >> This morning I looked it over, water pump, generator, and distributor all >> looked good with no play in anything; cap and rotor looked fine as well. >> Drove around the block for 5 miles or so up to 4,000 rpm in and out of >> OD; >> running normally. >> >> The only thing that makes sense to me is the distributor and I wonder if >> the >> odd rpm reading when it gets hot is a clue; condensor, coil?. But I >> can't >> figure out what the noise was. >> >> Anybody have any ideas? >> >> thanks, >> Frank >> '65 BJ8 >> Wichita, KS. >> >> >> > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From fmags at cox.net Mon Sep 6 08:12:13 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 09:12:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order Message-ID: I missed the original post on this, so I don't know what oil you are looking at or what oils were discussed. But, I got introduced to a product called Break Free while I worked for the military many years ago. I have used this for many years and it literally is an order of magitude better than anything I have ever used. You can get it at any good gun store. Sorry if this is old info. Frank Magnusson Wichita, KS '65 BJ8 From jobu53 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 6 09:44:20 2010 From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan S) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 08:44:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: odd noise and rough running In-Reply-To: References: <76A57BE4F73B4861A1378828C9AEA35A@FrankPC>, <4C845403.2030006@comcast.net>, Message-ID: You might try replacing the rotor with a new one and see what happens. I had the same problem awhile ago and couldn't see any visible damage to the old rotor. Put a new one on and everything was fine. Some of the rotors available are notorious for developing very small cracks that can't be seen by the naked eye. Jeff at Advanced Distributors sells a very high quality rotor. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 Fountain Hills, AZ People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain From gmandas at yahoo.com Mon Sep 6 13:45:21 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 12:45:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <716371.18186.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I just went to Amazon and they say CD-2 Lead substitute is out of stock and they don't know if/or when it'll be back. I like it because of the self measuring bottle. What's a Healey driver to do? Any suggestions? Greg From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 6 14:24:36 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 22:24:36 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute In-Reply-To: <716371.18186.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <716371.18186.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C854E04.1030300@chello.nl> You do not need lead substitute. Use petrol only , the highest octane rating available, in EU it would be 98. Adjust (retard) the ignition if necessary to prevent detonation. Do not worry about recessed valve seats. It simply does not happen in most cases with healthy engines, and when it happens it is time for a head rebuild anyway with new valves and hardened valve seats. It was a big scare when the lead in petrol was abolished. A lot of people had their cylinder heads rebuild with hardened seats and better valves at great expense. The industry loved it. The people that did not bother were far better of as in the end there were very, very few incidences with recessed valve seats, if any, in spite of the full blown hype about it. Most trouble was as usual from to tightly adjusted tappets. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Sep 6 14:50:41 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:50:41 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute In-Reply-To: <716371.18186.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <716371.18186.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Stop using it! I haven't done a valve job since un-leaded fuel was introduced.. just saying. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 1:45 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute I just went to Amazon and they say CD-2 Lead substitute is out of stock and they don't know if/or when it'll be back. I like it because of the self measuring bottle. What's a Healey driver to do? Any suggestions? Greg _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Sep 6 15:49:21 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:49:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute In-Reply-To: <716371.18186.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <716371.18186.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Low lead aviation fuel. Mixed in. I use 1/4 tank av gas to 3/4 unleaded premium. On Sep 6, 2010 1:02 PM, "Greg Mandas" wrote: > I just went to Amazon and they say CD-2 Lead substitute is out of stock and they don't know if/or when it'll be back. I like it because of the self measuring bottle. > > What's a Healey driver to do? Any suggestions? > > Greg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Mon Sep 6 15:52:31 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 21:52:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: References: , <04FBC061BAFB48A4B6C4E25259DF6512@GregPC> , Message-ID: No offense taken. :) I call them Sprites ... usually with with either a mk ii or iii or iv, but usually just by year. The bugeyes or frogeyes have their nicknames, but the others don't necessarily have to. Would you comment to your wife about 'hooters' girls and tell her that she's a square body? :) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > Hey my first car was a post bugeye Sprite, my second car was Sprite with an > external trunk lid, if you don't call them "b$# Sprites" what do you call > them? From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Sep 6 16:06:08 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 15:06:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid Capacity? Message-ID: <474981.25021.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Anyone know approximately how much fluid I'll need for a complete purge of the hydraulics in a BJ7 - no power booster? Thanks, Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Mon Sep 6 16:38:25 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 22:38:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: References: <8330F89D-6610-4020-B9AD-AAD17C18B5B4@gmail.com>, <20100905124556.EMLNK.302591.root@pamxwww01-z01>, Message-ID: a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could take an e. He conceded silently. ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. > > My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. > > OK---flame suit on. > > tom From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 6 16:53:26 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:53:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Luggage Rack Not Fitting Message-ID: <000a01cb4e16$51c96030$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Got a new Moss luggage rack that appears to be a wrong fit. I got my old hinge pins out and replaced them with the optional rack pins. These pins have a nut, a threaded area and the acorn nut. My question is where exactly do the rack tabs go in conjunction with the pin/ thread set up. The holes in the rack tabs are big enough to go over the threaded area but the tabs are not welded far enough apart to get them over both the left and the right threaded areas. The rack tabs fit exactly next to the hinges with no extra play what so ever so I can slide the pins through the tab holes but there is no way that I can get the tabs over the threaded area. Can someone tell me the sequence in which the luggage tabs should go on the pins. Or a couple of pictures would be great. Mark From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 6 17:02:54 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 07:02:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: References: <8330F89D-6610-4020-B9AD-AAD17C18B5B4@gmail.com> <20100905124556.EMLNK.302591.root@pamxwww01-z01> Message-ID: My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! Alan On 9/7/10, Robert Duquette wrote: > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Sep 6 17:19:55 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 19:19:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100906191955.UNDPH.240030.root@pamxwww06-z01> Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we will see how big that smile is:) ---- Robert Duquette wrote: ============= a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could take an e. He conceded silently. ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. > > My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. > > OK---flame suit on. > > tom _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From shop at justbrits.com Mon Sep 6 17:25:11 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 18:25:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute In-Reply-To: References: <716371.18186.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C857857.8030105@justbrits.com> << Low lead aviation fuel. Mixed in. I use 1/4 tank av gas to 3/4 unleaded premium. >> When I have AvGas Ira, I just use a qt. or 2 per full fill-up or I just use 108 Octane Boost. AvGas DOES work better tho!! LOL 'Course I can go about 5 towns East of me and get Sunoco Racing Fuel !!! Few years ago I accidentally put about 12 gals in "Hortense" !! AFTER my "wallet SHOCK", I did learn that "Hortense" LOVES, let me repeat LOVES the stuff !!!! LOL !!!! Ed From shop at justbrits.com Mon Sep 6 17:27:28 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 18:27:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: References: , <04FBC061BAFB48A4B6C4E25259DF6512@GregPC> , Message-ID: <4C8578E0.6070507@justbrits.com> << usually with with either a mk ii or iii or iv, but usually just by year. >> Or RWA - SWA, right RD ???? !! Ed From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Sep 6 17:30:53 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 19:30:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100906193053.OTF5Z.240159.root@pamxwww06-z01> The Moss box was only on the very first ones---changed to all-syncro in late 64 - early 65. There's one thing to win a drag race--quite another to press the big numbers. Heck--you can put a 427 in a go cart and take on anyone but you still have a go-cart. I can't tell you how many "fast" drag cars peter out in the high ranges---the E is still not too shabby 0-60, but get her on the open road and she will go like crazy---and I can still take my old 44 year old girl out with the best of them on the open road. So----the most beautiful sports car ever made (the E-Type) still rocks!!:):) Cheers tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! Alan On 9/7/10, Robert Duquette wrote: > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 6 17:42:42 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 07:42:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: <20100906191955.UNDPH.240030.root@pamxwww06-z01> References: <20100906191955.UNDPH.240030.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: Oh, once I get the S1 E-Type into gear it leaves everything in the dust. It's an open road car. The BJ8 is better in the tight roads, the 100 is the best for the curvy stuff. The A90 is best on a straight runway for 747s, and it's good to do a prayer or two when you get to a turn. On 9/7/10, Tom Felts wrote: > Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we > will see how big that smile is:) > > > ---- Robert Duquette wrote: > > ============= > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Sep 6 18:08:50 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:08:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: <20100906191955.UNDPH.240030.root@pamxwww06-z01> References: <20100906191955.UNDPH.240030.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: <1121B74899A7459FA0731238C67E92E9@LIFEBOOK> You fellows are all being totally ridiculous. And comparing period this vs. that of the modern era could go on forever. It's meaningless crap. Try putting something of the same period up against our British favourites. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Felts" Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 7:19 PM To: "Robert Duquette" ; "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! > Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we > will see how big that smile is:) > > > ---- Robert Duquette wrote: > > ============= > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e > off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) > could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. >> I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type > (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From jtrifari at comcast.net Mon Sep 6 18:09:51 2010 From: jtrifari at comcast.net (John Trifari) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 17:09:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight In-Reply-To: References: <20100905210420.SRNVH.143633.root@pamxwww02-z01> <206914.23496.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007301cb4e20$fe717700$fb546500$@net> Dull, ponderous episode despite the glimpse of the Healey--a real yawner. I turned it off halfway though and watched House. Lewis just ain't no Morse. Who did it? What happened to the Jag? John Trifari--Golden Gate AHC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Johnson Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 7:48 PM To: Richard Dryman Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight It was there with a louvered hood. Bob Johnson BJ8 On Sep 5, 2010 10:04 PM, "Richard Dryman" wrote: An 1964 AH3000,red, is in the Masterpiece Mystery "The Dead of Winter" [Inspector Lewis] on PBS listed to be shown tonight, 9-5 at 9pmEDT. May be shown at another time in other places. Shown at about 10 min mark into show; still watching so don't know if it is there again. The top was down in this one. >>> http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/lewis/deadofwinter.html _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtrifari at comcast.net From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 6 18:16:13 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:16:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory hardtop Message-ID: Can anyone tell me where the factory hardtops are stamped with their serial number? Does it correspond to a car number at all? Thanks, Shawn The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Sep 6 18:26:33 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:26:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100906202633.FN6B7.240988.root@pamxwww06-z01> As I said----not all S1 E's had the Moss box--the later ones shift like a dream. ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Oh, once I get the S1 E-Type into gear it leaves everything in the dust. It's an open road car. The BJ8 is better in the tight roads, the 100 is the best for the curvy stuff. The A90 is best on a straight runway for 747s, and it's good to do a prayer or two when you get to a turn. On 9/7/10, Tom Felts wrote: > Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we > will see how big that smile is:) > > > ---- Robert Duquette wrote: > > ============= > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Sep 6 18:27:54 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:27:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: <1121B74899A7459FA0731238C67E92E9@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <20100906202754.EYQIZ.241011.root@pamxwww06-z01> My point exactly. ---- Rich C wrote: ============= You fellows are all being totally ridiculous. And comparing period this vs. that of the modern era could go on forever. It's meaningless crap. Try putting something of the same period up against our British favourites. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Felts" Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 7:19 PM To: "Robert Duquette" ; "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! > Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we > will see how big that smile is:) > > > ---- Robert Duquette wrote: > > ============= > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e > off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) > could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. >> I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type > (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Sep 6 18:30:00 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:30:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: <20100906193053.OTF5Z.240159.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: <20100906203000.N5LOA.241052.root@pamxwww06-z01> ============= The Moss box was only on the very first ones---changed to all-syncro in late 64 - early 65. There's one thing to win a drag race--quite another to press the big numbers. Heck--you can put a 427 in a go cart and take on anyone but you still have a go-cart. I can't tell you how many "fast" drag cars peter out in the high ranges---the E is still not too shabby 0-60, but get her on the open road and she will go like crazy---and I can still take my old 44 year old girl out with the best of them on the open road. So----the most beautiful sports car ever made (the E-Type) still rocks!!:):) Cheers tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! Alan From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Sep 6 18:42:24 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 17:42:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?54_100_that=27s_worth_a_gander?= Message-ID: <4c858a61.8175e50a.264a.ffffadc8@mx.google.com> Box sprites. No insult intended. Just easier tell difference from frog eye. IMHO Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Robert Duquette" Date: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 2:52 pm Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander To: "Healeys" No offense taken. :) I call them Sprites ... usually with with either a mk ii or iii or iv, but usually just by year. The bugeyes or frogeyes have their nicknames, but the others don't necessarily have to. Would you comment to your wife about 'hooters' girls and tell her that she's a square body? :) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > Hey my first car was a post bugeye Sprite, my second car was Sprite with an > external trunk lid, if you don't call them "b$# Sprites" what do you call > them? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 6 18:59:41 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 17:59:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: <1121B74899A7459FA0731238C67E92E9@LIFEBOOK> References: <20100906191955.UNDPH.240030.root@pamxwww06-z01> <1121B74899A7459FA0731238C67E92E9@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <4C858E7D.3020004@comcast.net> My dad's 1965 Mustang with a 289 feels like a boat compared to my (67) BJ8, can probably beat the Healey off the line but would be no competition in the corners. bs Rich C wrote: > You fellows are all being totally ridiculous. And comparing period > this vs. that of the modern era could go on forever. It's meaningless > crap. > > Try putting something of the same period up against our British > favourites. -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 6 19:01:48 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:01:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight In-Reply-To: <007301cb4e20$fe717700$fb546500$@net> References: <20100905210420.SRNVH.143633.root@pamxwww02-z01> <206914.23496.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <007301cb4e20$fe717700$fb546500$@net> Message-ID: <877125.37976.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> You generally have to watch something to the end to find out who did it !!!?? To: Bob Johnson ; Richard Dryman Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, September 6, 2010 8:09:51 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight Dull, ponderous episode despite the glimpse of the Healey--a real yawner. I turned it off halfway though and watched House. Lewis just ain't no Morse. Who did it? What happened to the Jag? John Trifari--Golden Gate AHC From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Sep 6 19:21:54 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:21:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Factory hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The number is on the extrusion on the front end of the right side window piece. It does not relate to car number but indicate 2- or 4- seater. Wilko On Sep 6, 2010, at 5:16 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > Can anyone tell me where the factory hardtops are stamped with their > serial > number? Does it correspond to a car number at all? > Thanks, Shawn > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a > test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Sep 6 19:25:04 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:25:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander In-Reply-To: <4c858a61.8175e50a.264a.ffffadc8@mx.google.com> References: <4c858a61.8175e50a.264a.ffffadc8@mx.google.com> Message-ID: I don't think there is any offense taken all around, all in good fun, kind of like Sprites :) Greg Lemon From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Sep 6 19:31:24 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:31:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: <20100906203000.N5LOA.241052.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: <28845.64831.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Funny, I was in my local garage this week getitng a vehicle inspection sticker. In one of the bays was sitting a very nice restored E-Type. All i could think of was how could a motoring industry that could produce something as beautiful as this drive itself into the ground? If we looked at 1963 figures, I'm sure the 289 Cobra, XK-E and most of the 327 Corvettes would leave the Healey in the dust. Nevertheless, the Healey was certainly "Top of the Pops" for British sports cars. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 9/6/10, Tom Felts wrote: From: Tom Felts Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! To: "Alan Seigrist" , "Tom Felts" , "Robert Duquette" , "Healeys" Date: Monday, September 6, 2010, 8:30 PM ============= The Moss box was only on the very first ones---changed to all-syncro in late 64 - early 65. There's one thing to win a drag race--quite another to press the big numbers. Heck--you can put a 427 in a go cart and take on anyone but you still have a go-cart. I can't tell you how many "fast" drag cars peter out in the high ranges---the E is still not too shabby 0-60, but get her on the open road and she will go like crazy---and I can still take my old 44 year old girl out with the best of them on the open road. So----the most beautiful sports car ever made (the E-Type) still rocks!!:):) Cheers tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Mon Sep 6 19:46:20 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 01:46:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! In-Reply-To: References: <8330F89D-6610-4020-B9AD-AAD17C18B5B4@gmail.com>, <20100905124556.EMLNK.302591.root@pamxwww01-z01>, , , Message-ID: I'm not actually trying to slag e-types, just trying to keep things in perspective. We love the historic machines, but time has marched on. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 07:02:54 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: robertduquette at sympatico.ca; healeys at autox.team.net > > My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like > shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! > > Alan > > On 9/7/10, Robert Duquette wrote: > > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > > take an e. He conceded silently. > > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > > > Robert Duquette > > Ottawa ON Canada > > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > > > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > > Healey > > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. > >> > >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. > >> > >> OK---flame suit on. > >> > >> tom > > _______________________________________________ From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Sep 6 20:08:25 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 22:08:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Steering colunm brace Message-ID: I wonder if any of you would like to check on which hole in the steering column brace the aluminum collar is anchored. I see from my dismantling phoyos that it was originally on the second from the bottom hole, but as I reassemble things, it seems to want to sit at the top hole. I see that the steering box has room for movement on two of the bolt holes, so I'm wondering whether i should shift the column this way to bring it to the original hole. Stephen, BJ8 From healey100m at gmail.com Mon Sep 6 20:13:41 2010 From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 22:13:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3CCB1241-1B57-44C3-A854-F0D67E49DA52@gmail.com> I believe that 4 seater hardtop numbers start with a "4" and 2 seaters start with a "6". Build date and sequence number are part of the serial number. Randy On Sep 6, 2010, at 9:21 PM, "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" wrote: > The number is on the extrusion on the front end of the right side window piece. It does not relate to car number but indicate 2- or 4-seater. > > Wilko > > On Sep 6, 2010, at 5:16 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me where the factory hardtops are stamped with their serial >> number? Does it correspond to a car number at all? >> Thanks, Shawn >> >> The Millers >> "British Car Nuts" >> >> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 >> >> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 >> >> 1964 MGB 40841 >> >> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 >> >> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test >> drive." >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Sep 6 21:03:00 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:03:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Steering colunm brace In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I believe the holes allow for adjustment in the column to fit variation in drivers. experts???? On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 7:08 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I wonder if any of you would like to check on which hole in the steering > column brace the aluminum collar is anchored. I see from my dismantling > phoyos that it was originally on the second from the bottom hole, but as I > reassemble things, it seems to want to sit at the top hole. > I see that the steering box has room for movement on two of the bolt holes, > so I'm wondering whether i should shift the column this way to bring it to > the original hole. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From peter.svilans at rogers.com Mon Sep 6 21:33:42 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 23:33:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory hardtop Message-ID: <001801cb4e3d$78bec190$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> To be a little more specific: The numbers are oriented so that they can be read sitting in the right-hand seat and looking up and forward. They are on the wide horizontal portion of the extrusion, and are on the far right of that surface, with the base of the numbers up against the short vertical flange which takes the Furflex seal. They start about 2" from the front of the extrusion, and come in three groups separated by spaces, as in: 4/03 62 3565 Best regards Peter From peter.svilans at rogers.com Mon Sep 6 21:48:18 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 23:48:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory hardtop Message-ID: <003701cb4e3f$82388740$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Mis-typed: ....with the base of the numbers up against the short vertical flange which is towards the outside and DOESN"T take the Furflex seal. From arjayarjay at att.net Mon Sep 6 11:41:06 2010 From: arjayarjay at att.net (Ronald Somers) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 10:41:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] contribution Message-ID: <956924.69073.qm@web180515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> am on the list. need help. want to contribute $12.75. how and where? From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 00:16:25 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 14:16:25 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] contribution In-Reply-To: <956924.69073.qm@web180515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <956924.69073.qm@web180515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: look below, the link is there! On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 1:41 AM, Ronald Somers wrote: > am on the list. need help. want to contribute $12.75. how and where? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 04:46:36 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 03:46:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] contribution In-Reply-To: <956924.69073.qm@web180515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <956924.69073.qm@web180515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <366FCA34-C55F-44DD-978A-A8B43D5DB72B@gmail.com> Look at the bottom of any list email for the link http://www.team.net/donate.html Sent from my iPhone On Sep 6, 2010, at 10:41, Ronald Somers wrote: > am on the list. need help. want to contribute $12.75. how and where? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Tue Sep 7 06:20:39 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 05:20:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] contribution In-Reply-To: <956924.69073.qm@web180515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <956924.69073.qm@web180515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <787639.23671.qm@web32904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> You might want to click on the link below that follows the word Donate? ________________________________ From: Ronald Somers To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, September 6, 2010 1:41:06 PM Subject: [Healeys] contribution am on the list. need help. want to contribute $12.75. how and where? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htm Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Sep 7 06:44:43 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:44:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Steering colunm brace In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The variation is for the variation of the fit on individual cars. It will be decided also by how it fits to the wood dashboard on your particular car, and how it fits best through the adjustable grommet plates in the bulkhead. Each one is it's own call. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Stephen Hutchings" Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 10:08 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Steering colunm brace > I wonder if any of you would like to check on which hole in the steering > column brace the aluminum collar is anchored. I see from my dismantling > phoyos that it was originally on the second from the bottom hole, but as I > reassemble things, it seems to want to sit at the top hole. > I see that the steering box has room for movement on two of the bolt > holes, so I'm wondering whether i should shift the column this way to > bring it to the original hole. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Sep 7 06:51:10 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:51:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: BN2 Fuel Pump Message-ID: <3C634FACB5294DB1AA29873DB82E3491@LIFEBOOK> > Bob, > > The original Hundred pump (both BN1 and BN2) was a special HP unit (high > pressure) with a longer solenoid barrel and diaphragm stem. It had a metal > tag fastened to the body stating "This pump is a high pressure pump and is > approximately 1/2" longer than the normal Type L pump. It should only be > replaced by a similar high pressure pump". (see picture). > The new pump should work just fine but it may explain the erratic beating > you are experiencing. > However, you may want to remove the 6 screws around the pump body to > solenoid flange and rotate the diaphragm stem one hole further in or out > to > achieve optimum action. As often as not, these pumps straight out of the > box > may not be set to do their best action and need slight adjustment. > > Rich [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of feb082 009.jpg] From s.hutchings at rogers.com Tue Sep 7 08:05:07 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:05:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Steering column brace Message-ID: Thanks to all for the advice on the steering column brace. I had realized that there was a certain amount of adjustment, but I wondered if there was a standard set-up that would be delivered to the dealer. Stephen BJ8 From pennell at cox.net Tue Sep 7 08:10:29 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:10:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Luggage Rack Not Fitting In-Reply-To: <000a01cb4e16$51c96030$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <20100907101029.MEU2R.1590387.imail@eastrmwml29> Mark, Just a WAG but maybe remove one or both of the hinges, mount the rack to the pins, then reattach the hinges to the car? Keith ---- Mark LaPierre wrote: > Got a new Moss luggage rack that appears to be a wrong fit. I got my old > hinge pins out and replaced them with the > optional rack pins. These pins have a nut, a threaded area and the acorn > nut. My question is where exactly do the rack > tabs go in conjunction with the pin/ thread set up. The holes in the rack > tabs are big enough to go over the threaded area but > the tabs are not welded far enough apart to get them over both the left and > the right threaded areas. The rack tabs fit exactly next > to the hinges with no extra play what so ever so I can slide the pins through > the tab holes but there is no way that I can get the > tabs over the threaded area. > > Can someone tell me the sequence in which the luggage tabs should go on the > pins. Or a couple of pictures would be great. > > Mark From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Sep 7 08:39:46 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:39:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Paging Jeff Stepek Message-ID: <000601cb4e9a$84d40a50$8e7c1ef0$@rr.com> Is Jeff Stepek still on the list? If so, I need to get in touch with you. Thanks, Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 10:17:34 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:17:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring Message-ID: Team........ See my post at http://tinyurl.com/386tp7x which has pictures to accompany the text. I am fitting the escutcheon ring to the dash and having a bit of trouble. From the parts manual two different rings are available and it may be that I have the wrong one for my adjustable steering column/wheel. The escutcheon assembly consists of a triangular backing plate that goes behind the dash. The finisher ring is then inserted from the front and the legs bent around the backing plate to hold the assembly together sandwiching the dash panel between them. Is this correct? The tabs are visible and ugly! It doesn't look right to me. Is that because I have the escutcheon for a non-adjustable setup? If so how does the adjustable set up differ? Thanks............. _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Sep 7 11:30:51 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 13:30:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3325B9015E7A4FF99024B2BA6E1ECFC6@LIFEBOOK> Alan, Your escutcheon is the right one for the adjustable wheel and locking collar. There should be no triangular backing plate in behind at all. The 3 tabs must be splayed and bent outboard and curve around to secure the ring into position against the back side of the dash. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Bromfield" Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 12:17 PM To: "Healey Mail List" Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring > Team........ > See my post at > http://tinyurl.com/386tp7x > which has pictures to accompany the text. > I am fitting the escutcheon ring to the dash and having a bit of > trouble. From the parts manual two different rings are available and > it may be that I have the wrong one for my adjustable steering > column/wheel. The escutcheon assembly consists of a triangular backing > plate that goes behind the dash. The finisher ring is then inserted > from the front and the legs bent around the backing plate to hold the > assembly together sandwiching the dash panel between them. > > Is this correct? The tabs are visible and ugly! > > It doesn't look right to me. Is that because I have the escutcheon for > a non-adjustable setup? > If so how does the adjustable set up differ? > > Thanks............. > _________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) > (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) > (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of August 1 014.jpg] From rjswain at hotmail.com Tue Sep 7 11:33:17 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:33:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Alan For my non-adjustable steering wheel, the diameter of the hole in the triangular backing plate is slightly larger than the diameter of the hole in the escutcheon ring. That way the tabs on the ring are bent outward, rather than inward, and just don't show. Perhaps you have a mismatched set - are there two different backing plates available as well as two different rings? Rick '59 BN4 (with non-adjustable steering wheel) > Is this correct? The tabs are visible and ugly! > > It doesn't look right to me. Is that because I have the escutcheon for > a non-adjustable setup? > If so how does the adjustable set up differ? From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Sep 8 08:20:24 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 00:20:24 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Earth to Healey list... ??? Message-ID: <52D70820-4266-4E5C-9EE6-ADF454C7D54C@gmail.com> Haven't seen a Healey list message in 21 hours? Is it just me, or did everyone run out of something to say??? ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone From wsthompson at thicko.com Wed Sep 8 08:23:48 2010 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 09:23:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ELVF at Road America Message-ID: <006d01cb4f61$75b37bb0$611a7310$@com> Not racing (again) this year, but my 20 piece "the SwingTime Big Band" is playing for the "Gather on the Green" car show over at the Osthoff at 5:00pm Saturday. I hope to get to the track earlier in the day to see many of my old Thicko friends (yes, you are old). I should have a fresh supply of Team Thicko stickers for anyone need some. WST From price at advocateadvisors.com Wed Sep 8 10:27:14 2010 From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:27:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise Message-ID: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> For the past several trips out in my BJ 8 I have noticed a slight "humming" sound when I step on the gas slightly, ie put a small load on the drive train. I have done this in 3rd and 4th gears and the sound seems to be the same. Also, it is higher pitched at higher speeds. We put it up on a lift and the sound seemed to come from the rear end. I also also noticed oil seeping from one of the rear bearing seals. When I took the car to a local mechanic he told me it's the transmission. Before i start tearing something apart I have to ask if it is likely to be the transmission? Could the sound travel to the rear end and if so, wouldn't it sound different in different gears? Thank you so much for any insight you can provide. Price Lindsay 67 BJ 8 From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Sep 8 10:32:09 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 12:32:09 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Return to Bonneville DVD Message-ID: <55781.3d05448e.39b91489@aol.com> Thank you very much for the review and kind words. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 9/4/2010 7:19:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rdryman1 at yahoo.com writes: Re'cd DVD today: EXTREMELY professional; 16:9 format--fills screen, Dolby Audio; basically, I am impressed. Also a bonus DVD: Dinner presentation & questions and answers. You will be pleased if you ordered this. R _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From barrie at look.ca Wed Sep 8 09:36:22 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 11:36:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Parts for BJ8 or others Message-ID: I have a box of parts left over from my restoring a BJ8 days. It includes a square full pump, several L 691 lenses, seat belts, crank gaskets, etc etc. Some new, some used but in good nick. If anyone is interested I can send a list Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 8 10:56:51 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:56:51 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise In-Reply-To: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> References: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> Message-ID: <4C87C053.4080706@chello.nl> Start by checking/renewing the rear wheel bearings and seals. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From rbeni3000 at wowway.com Wed Sep 8 11:27:49 2010 From: rbeni3000 at wowway.com (BOB BENISEK) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 13:27:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise In-Reply-To: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> Message-ID: <2065705271.1033894.1283966869751.JavaMail.root@md08.wow.synacor.com> Also check the u-joints for wear. ----- Original Message ----- From: "R. Price Lindsay" To: "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2010 11:27:14 AM Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise For the past several trips out in my BJ 8 I have noticed a slight "humming" sound when I step on the gas slightly, ie put a small load on the drive train. I have done this in 3rd and 4th gears and the sound seems to be the same. Also, it is higher pitched at higher speeds. B We put it up on a lift and the sound seemed to come from the rear end. B I also also noticed oil seeping from one of the rear bearing seals. When I took the car to a local mechanic he told me it's the transmission. Before i start tearing something apart I have to ask if it is likely to be the transmission? B Could the sound travel to the rear end and if so, wouldn't it sound different in different gears? Thank you so much for any insight you can provide. Price Lindsay 67 BJ 8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rbeni3000 at wowway.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Sep 8 11:29:26 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:29:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise In-Reply-To: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> References: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> Message-ID: I agree with Kees. Bearings are an easy 1 day deal and relatively inexpensive. A "humming" is more likely a wheel bearing or differential bearing than a gearbox noise. Use a stethoscope or long screwdriver to localize the sound.. Most mechanics are deaf or getting there... ;>) dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Price Lindsay Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 10:27 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise For the past several trips out in my BJ 8 I have noticed a slight "humming" sound when I step on the gas slightly, ie put a small load on the drive train. I have done this in 3rd and 4th gears and the sound seems to be the same. Also, it is higher pitched at higher speeds. We put it up on a lift and the sound seemed to come from the rear end. I also also noticed oil seeping from one of the rear bearing seals. When I took the car to a local mechanic he told me it's the transmission. Before i start tearing something apart I have to ask if it is likely to be the transmission? Could the sound travel to the rear end and if so, wouldn't it sound different in different gears? Thank you so much for any insight you can provide. Price Lindsay 67 BJ 8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Sep 8 11:39:27 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:39:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring In-Reply-To: <3325B9015E7A4FF99024B2BA6E1ECFC6@LIFEBOOK> References: <3325B9015E7A4FF99024B2BA6E1ECFC6@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Team. Many thanks for all your prompt and detailed responses. It has been suggested that the escutcheon for an adjustable steering/column uses a backing plate with a larger hole to allow the retaining legs to pass through the hole and bend outward. On checking various parts listings from the big name suppliers however only one backing plate is ever listed. Even the AH original parts list only offers one example - part no. AHB5406. Perhaps Rick has a one-off special. RichC has provided a response (below) complete with photo that I shall use to update the forum for others that may pass this way in the future. Thanks again. On 7 September 2010 18:30, Rich C wrote: > Alan, > > Your escutcheon is the right one for the adjustable wheel and locking > collar. There should be no triangular backing plate in behind at all. The 3 > tabs must be splayed and bent outboard and curve around to secure the ring > into position against the back side of the dash. > > Rich _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Wed Sep 8 12:08:22 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:08:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Syncro problem Message-ID: <8737A8AE-5E44-4E64-8ABD-D419C77A11E3@bornet.net> I have rebuilt a 3000 side shifter gearbox that was in a very good condition. I renewed all bearings and the syncro rings. All gears were very good with virtually no wear at all. When I first test drove the car everything worked very well. Gradually the syncro on 2nd gear stopped working, when down shifting from 3rd gear, until there was no syncro action at all. The strange thing is that the syncro on 2nd gear works fine when up shifting from 1st. Syncro on 3rd and 4th work fine. I have taken the box apart and changed everything that has to do with 2nd gear. Syncro ring, 1:st gear assembly, 2nd gear, 1st / 2nd selector fork and selector shaft. The problem stays the same with very good syncro between 1st and 2nd and no syncro when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd. I would be very thankful for any advise leading to the solution of this problem as it4s kind of driving me mad at the moment. TIA Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Wed Sep 8 12:17:37 2010 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:17:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise In-Reply-To: References: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> Message-ID: <098E2B89EFCC1F40A63BBC6B403BFDDC07EA14C4@PRGMBX07> If one looks in the archives, I also was looking for a source of a noise. I used the stethoscope, etc. and was sure the noise was from the diff. I swapped out the 3rd member and the noise was still there. Eventually the transmission got a going over and new overdrive bearings got rid of the noise. Ken BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 12:27:54 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 11:27:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise In-Reply-To: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> References: <57E4C8A5-E8E9-4A23-8FC2-37F595B010DD@advocateadvisors.com> Message-ID: <4C87D5AA.1050203@comcast.net> Could be loss of pre-load on the pinion bearings. bs R. Price Lindsay wrote: > For the past several trips out in my BJ 8 I have noticed a slight "humming" > sound when I step on the gas slightly, ie put a small load on the drive train. > I have done this in 3rd and 4th gears and the sound seems to be the same. > Also, it is higher pitched at higher speeds. We put it up on a lift and the > sound seemed to come from the rear end. I also also noticed oil seeping from > one of the rear bearing seals. When I took the car to a local mechanic he told > me it's the transmission. > > Before i start tearing something apart I have to ask if it is likely to be the > transmission? Could the sound travel to the rear end and if so, wouldn't it > sound different in different gears? > > Thank you so much for any insight you can provide. > > Price Lindsay > > 67 BJ 8 > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rpschauss at gmail.com Wed Sep 8 12:51:02 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:51:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Syncro problem In-Reply-To: <8737A8AE-5E44-4E64-8ABD-D419C77A11E3@bornet.net> References: <8737A8AE-5E44-4E64-8ABD-D419C77A11E3@bornet.net> Message-ID: Magnus, Where did you get your syncro rings? I had a similar experience when I rebuilt my gearbox 9+ years ago. At the time, I bought syncro rings from AH spares since they had the lowest price. (At the time, the US $ was a bit stronger than it is now.) I have since learned that I would have had better luck with "uprated" syncro rings which are now available. Someday I may make another attempt at rebuilding my gearbox, but in the meantime, I just double clutch when I downshift into second. When I started the whole process I had to double clutch when downshifting into third gear so I consider the present condition of my gearbox a great improvement. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 On Wed, Sep 8, 2010 at 2:08 PM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > I have rebuilt a 3000 side shifter gearbox that was in a very good condition. > I renewed all bearings and the syncro rings. All gears were very good with > virtually no wear at all. When I first test drove the car everything worked > very well. Gradually the syncro on 2nd gear stopped working, when down > shifting from 3rd gear, until there was no syncro action at all. The strange > thing is that the syncro on 2nd gear works fine when up shifting from 1st. > Syncro on 3rd and 4th work fine. I have taken the box apart and changed > everything that has to do with 2nd gear. Syncro ring, 1:st gear assembly, 2nd > gear, 1st / 2nd selector fork and selector shaft. The problem stays the same > with very good syncro between 1st and 2nd and no syncro when down shifting > from 3rd to 2nd. I would be very thankful for any advise leading to the > solution of this problem as it4s kind of driving me mad at the moment. > > TIA > Magnus Karlsson From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 8 12:51:59 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:51:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Syncro problem In-Reply-To: <8737A8AE-5E44-4E64-8ABD-D419C77A11E3@bornet.net> References: <8737A8AE-5E44-4E64-8ABD-D419C77A11E3@bornet.net> Message-ID: There are a couple of syncros available and one of them is total crap. I had one years ago on a restoration that the car never got the body installed and the syncros started going bad. So my bet is you installed the less expensive syncros that run about $120.00 a set and not the ones that are $320.00 a set of three. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Sep 8, 2010, at 11:08 AM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > I have rebuilt a 3000 side shifter gearbox that was in a very good > condition. > I renewed all bearings and the syncro rings. All gears were very > good with > virtually no wear at all. When I first test drove the car > everything worked > very well. Gradually the syncro on 2nd gear stopped working, when down > shifting from 3rd gear, until there was no syncro action at all. > The strange > thing is that the syncro on 2nd gear works fine when up shifting > from 1st. > Syncro on 3rd and 4th work fine. I have taken the box apart and > changed > everything that has to do with 2nd gear. Syncro ring, 1:st gear > assembly, 2nd > gear, 1st / 2nd selector fork and selector shaft. The problem stays > the same > with very good syncro between 1st and 2nd and no syncro when down > shifting > from 3rd to 2nd. I would be very thankful for any advise leading to > the > solution of this problem as it4s kind of driving me mad at the moment. > > TIA > Magnus Karlsson > > > www.concourshealeys.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From bj8Healey at msn.com Wed Sep 8 13:55:56 2010 From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 13:55:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap Message-ID: Hello Team, I recently inherited maintenance-duty for my late father's '66 BJ8. By and large, it's in good enough condition to just require regular cleaning, fluid checks & replacements, lubrication, etc, but I'm just starting to stumble up the learning curve as to how to keep the beauty in tip-top shape. The ridiculous amount of Healey-maintenance literature my father amassed should probably help at least a little... However, recently there has been a hissing sound coming from the engine, which builds up slowly after starting the engine, continues while running, and slowly dissipates after shut-down. I've isolated it to the oil-filler cap, which is a quick-release style (opposed to the cable-attached cap), and pressing down on the cap while the engine's running dampens the sound a little; oil levels are perfect. My question is what needs to be done about this: cap/seal replacement, or could this be a symptom of a deeper problem that needs to be checked up on? Best, Logan Sailer '66 BJ8 ><((((:> ><((((:> `7.88.74/`7.8.74/`7... ><((((:> ><((((:> ><((((:> ><((((:> From jstmorris at yahoo.com Wed Sep 8 13:57:53 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 12:57:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Parts for BJ8 or others In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <517434.60811.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Barrie; Yes, I would be interested in getting a list of what you have available. Besides my own interest, if it is ok & provided the list is not too big, I will include it in the next monthly British Car listing I do up and put on the BSCC-Hamilton web site as well as emailed to over 100 LBC people. See http://www.bsccweb.com/Newpages/Classified/Cars1.pdf for the current list. As an aside, your British Car Cottage Industries website at http://www.britcot.com has quite a list of interesting small businesses serving the LBC market. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 9/8/10, Barrie Robinson wrote: << I have a box of parts left over from my restoring a BJ8 days. It includes a square full pump, several L 691 lenses, seat belts, crank gaskets, etc etc. Some new, some used but in good nick. If anyone is interested I can send a list. Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick, Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com >> From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 8 21:31:10 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:31:10 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net hiccups Message-ID: <20100909033110.AA1F02E0DF@bradakis.com> Yes, the lists have been acting funny today. There was a loss of connectivity to the world for about 24 hours, so email was delayed and web pages were unavailable. I do apologize for the inconvenience. mjb. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 9 00:35:32 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 08:35:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C888034.5040306@chello.nl> Increased crankcase pressure! This should not happen as there should be some form of crank case ventilation present. Increased crankcase pressure is generally caused by excessive piston blow by, which means worn piston rings, pistons or bores or all three of them. Does it burn oil, i.e. blue smoke? You do not mention oil leaks from the rear crank seal. I wonder if this has been modified in the past to accept a modern seal instead of the more or less open spiral "seal". This could also be the problem as now there will be less opportunity to get rid of the blow by gases. If this is the case you have to increase the crankcase ventilation. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Sep 9 01:46:04 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:46:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Message-ID: <7C90E2561BF54265B8FFAEB08364E83E@tm> Hello, I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 engine. The engine is filled with run-in oil. Many thanks, Tadek From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Sep 9 01:45:19 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 03:45:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD1E0A15941875-1820-5D85@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com> Logan You didn't mention if the normal T fitting for the crank case breather/valve cover/air filter is used on the top of the valve cover. Most valve covers with the quick-release style or hinged caps are aluminum. Many aluminum covers don't have the T fitting. If so this would account for the excessive pressure in the crankcase. Another assumption on my part. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: James Sailer To: Healey List Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 9:55 am Subject: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap Hello Team, I recently inherited maintenance-duty for my late father's '66 BJ8. By and large, it's in good enough condition to just require regular cleaning, fluid checks & replacements, lubrication, etc, but I'm just starting to stumble up the learning curve as to how to keep the beauty in tip-top shape. The ridiculous amount of Healey-maintenance literature my father amassed should probably help at least a little... However, recently there has been a hissing sound coming from the engine, which builds up slowly after starting the engine, continues while running, and slowly dissipates after shut-down. I've isolated it to the oil-filler cap, which is a quick-release style (opposed to the cable-attached cap), and pressing down on the cap while the engine's running dampens the sound a little; oil levels are perfect. My question is what needs to be done about this: cap/seal replacement, or could this be a symptom of a deeper problem that needs to be checked up on? Best, Logan Sailer From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Sep 9 01:57:18 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:57:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? Message-ID: <791B0E56F898492FBBAA95CD7718BBB0@tm> Hello, A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the car overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol (so he described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old head. The temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to 190-200F. Any thoughts anyone? Tadek From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 02:12:54 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 16:12:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: <7C90E2561BF54265B8FFAEB08364E83E@tm> References: <7C90E2561BF54265B8FFAEB08364E83E@tm> Message-ID: Tadek - Idle first for about 15- 30 minutes watching oil pressure and temp. Expect the temp to get close to boiling. If the car does peg the temp meter within 10 minutes or less, you should shut it down and cool off before running again. The initial start up the engine will run hot. Make sure you have ventilation. Use this warm up time to do the initial setting on the carbs. After initial run in, you can run on the road for 800 km/ 500 miles, keeping motor below 2,000 rpms at all times. After the first ~ 200 miles, you can probably go up to 2,500 rpms, but only AFTER the motor has warmed up. Alan On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 3:46 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). > > I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 > engine. > > The engine is filled with run-in oil. > > Many thanks, > > Tadek From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 02:39:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 16:39:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Logan - Welcome to the list. It is nice to see you here. There should be a "T" located on the back of the valve cover - this T is the "breather" for the engine, allowing the crankcase to bleed off excess pressure as it warms up. You can see the T piece plus the hose connections on the earlier tricarb motor here (the thing located just behind the rear [second] valve cover bolt): http://members.home.nl/rgubbels/engine3carb.jpg The crankcase breather comes out of the rear tappet cover (on right rear side of engine - you can see it in this picture) and connects to the T piece on top of the valve cover, then connects by hose to the rear carburettor on your BJ8. It all is supposed to vent into the rear carb air filter. If your car has an aftermarket valve cover, check to see if it has the T piece on the back like in the picture. If it does not have this piece, then that is your problem. It's nothing to be too worried about, but is annoying and will result in excessive oil usage and a very dirty oily engine. Now your father may have installed a PCV valve on the crankcase, which is a one way valve used on new cars to hold off excess pressure built up in the crankcase. If you see a round cylindrical can, about 2" in diameter and 2" in length (most likely gold or silver colored) mounted somewhere around the rear tappet cover, you may have a clogged PCV valve. In this case just remove it, take it to your local Napa auto parts, and have them replace it with something similar. Alan On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 3:55 AM, James Sailer wrote: > Hello Team, > > I recently inherited maintenance-duty for my late father's '66 BJ8. By and > large, it's in good enough condition to just require regular cleaning, fluid > checks & replacements, lubrication, etc, but I'm just starting to stumble up > the learning curve as to how to keep the beauty in tip-top shape. The > ridiculous amount of Healey-maintenance literature my father amassed should > probably help at least a little... > > However, recently there has been a hissing sound coming from the engine, which > builds up slowly after starting the engine, continues while running, and > slowly dissipates after shut-down. I've isolated it to the oil-filler cap, > which is a quick-release style (opposed to the cable-attached cap), and > pressing down on the cap while the engine's running dampens the sound a > little; oil levels are perfect. My question is what needs to be done about > this: cap/seal replacement, or could this be a symptom of a deeper problem > that needs to be checked up on? > > Best, > Logan Sailer > > '66 BJ8 >><((((:> ><((((:> `7.88.74/`7.8.74/`7... ><((((:> > ><((((:> ><((((:> > ><((((:> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 02:49:49 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 16:49:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? In-Reply-To: <791B0E56F898492FBBAA95CD7718BBB0@tm> References: <791B0E56F898492FBBAA95CD7718BBB0@tm> Message-ID: Tadek - First try using a 180 or 160 deg thermostat, these cars originally did not use 190+ thermostats. When the engine was rebuilt, they possibly did not clean out all the rust and scale in the water jacket. I would try power flushing the engine block to start. The 100 head is also prone to cracking (I think between 2 and 3) and this may be your problem here. It could be an indication of an over-shaved head. The water jacket in the head is at an angle, so when you "plane" the head too much, the water jacket on the head no longer matches up cleanly with the water jacket in the engine. Do a compression check. If all four cylinders are high (i.e. something over 9:1 compression) then the head is shaved too much. If a couple of the cylinders are running low compression (you have to do the test when the engine is hot), then you probably have a crack in the head. I suspect a crack in the head. :( Also... the exhaust header should be Jet-Hot coated :). Both my 100 and A90 can spend all day in traffic, the 100 motor runs much cooler than the 6 cyl motor, so something is definitely wrong. Alan On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 3:57 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the car > overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol (so he > described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old head. The > temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to 190-200F. > > Any thoughts anyone? > > > Tadek From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 9 04:19:23 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 06:19:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Syncro problem References: <8737A8AE-5E44-4E64-8ABD-D419C77A11E3@bornet.net> Message-ID: <000a01cb5008$79be0d90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Since I have been driving my car (600mi) I used first gear for about a week until I realized how much more pleasurable it is to not use it at all. As far as down shifting into 2nd, I only do that when coming to a stop sign, if at all cause my breaks seem to do that just fine. Sounds like a good source for whip lash if your going any faster. Not the answer your looking for but another way of looking at your driving style. Maybe the convertibles are geared a little differently than the roadsters. I am using the Moss syncros from about 4years ago and so far no problems noticed. Just my 2 cents, Mark Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 9 04:41:02 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 12:41:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: References: <7C90E2561BF54265B8FFAEB08364E83E@tm> Message-ID: <4C88B9BE.1060205@chello.nl> Not only keep the revs down, but also use a feather light foot on the throttle for the first few hundred miles!!!! Change the oil after 500 miles and check the cooling system for debris in the radiator. If debris shows up clean out the radiator seperately by back flushing, refit, add caustic soda or a can of radiator cleaner to the cooling system, run the car for about an hour, drain and back flush engine and radiator until clean water only comes out. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 05:32:26 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 21:32:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Syncro problem In-Reply-To: <000a01cb5008$79be0d90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <8737A8AE-5E44-4E64-8ABD-D419C77A11E3@bornet.net> <000a01cb5008$79be0d90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <6D98D6A0-64DA-4FB2-A4E2-7A20C246EC3A@gmail.com> Downchanging sounds fantastic in a Healey. But brake system rebuilds cost so much less.... And that doesn't really matter whether you have a side change/ centre shift/ whatever SCCR or STD ratio gearbox. Rule 1. Brake first. Rule 2. Change down Rule 3. Always drive into a corner in this order, irrespective of road or track. Everywhere. The late, great, Peter Hopwood wrote an article about racing a Healey, and his experiences on the road and track. It was called (something very much like) "how I learnt to drive faster by driving slower", when he owned a Healey 3000. Peter (many years later) became the Australian Sportscar Champion, and in a Healey 3000, at the very end of his career, was the only man to pass Denis Welch at Bathurst in 1998. And despite Denis winning every race in 1998, Peter set the fastest lap time back in 1998. Peters message back in about 1972? In a paragraph? Brake as hard as you can, look after your gearbox, then - only then - change down, then accelerate as hard as you can under power - as hard as you can - through a corner - to maximize straight line speed. Obviously there was more than that. But changing down like an F1 driver in a Healey is a recipe for disaster. That's what brakes are for - to slow you down! Brake. Then change down. Not the other way round Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 09/09/2010, at 8:19 PM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: > Since I have been driving my car (600mi) I used first gear for > about a week until I realized how much > more pleasurable it is to not use it at all. As far as down > shifting into 2nd, I only do that when coming > to a stop sign, if at all cause my breaks seem to do that just > fine. Sounds like a good source for whip lash if your going any > faster. > > Not the answer > your looking for but another way of looking at your driving > style. Maybe the convertibles are geared > a little differently than the roadsters. I am using the Moss > syncros from about 4years ago and so far no > problems From willig at wtnet.de Thu Sep 9 05:47:40 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:47:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: References: <7C90E2561BF54265B8FFAEB08364E83E@tm> Message-ID: <004501cb5014$cef43530$6cdc9f90$@de> Hi Tadek, be very careful when you check the engine temperature. Remember that the temperature sender sits in the radiator. I encountered a problem when I started my overhauled engine for the first time and I did not realize that the thermostat did not open.....I focused on the temperature instrument -all was cool- and was not aware that the engine itself was very very hot. My advice is to check the temperature of the radiator top hose with your hand during the first startup, so you can be sure that all is well. Regards Thomas Willig -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. September 2010 10:13 An: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Tadek - Idle first for about 15- 30 minutes watching oil pressure and temp. Expect the temp to get close to boiling. If the car does peg the temp meter within 10 minutes or less, you should shut it down and cool off before running again. The initial start up the engine will run hot. Make sure you have ventilation. Use this warm up time to do the initial setting on the carbs. After initial run in, you can run on the road for 800 km/ 500 miles, keeping motor below 2,000 rpms at all times. After the first ~ 200 miles, you can probably go up to 2,500 rpms, but only AFTER the motor has warmed up. Alan On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 3:46 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). > > I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 > engine. > > The engine is filled with run-in oil. > > Many thanks, > > Tadek From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 9 05:55:29 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 13:55:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Syncro problem In-Reply-To: <6D98D6A0-64DA-4FB2-A4E2-7A20C246EC3A@gmail.com> References: <8737A8AE-5E44-4E64-8ABD-D419C77A11E3@bornet.net> <000a01cb5008$79be0d90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <6D98D6A0-64DA-4FB2-A4E2-7A20C246EC3A@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C88CB31.9060709@chello.nl> Learning how to double declutch will help as well. It will save the synchro's and if performed correctly can make downshifts quicker and smoother. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 07:32:04 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 06:32:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: <4C88B9BE.1060205@chello.nl> References: <7C90E2561BF54265B8FFAEB08364E83E@tm> <4C88B9BE.1060205@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C88E1D4.1090309@comcast.net> Hmmm ... this should be an interesting topic. I haven't built enough engines to offer definitive advice, but it seems the contemporary recommendation--for rebuilt older engines with flat tappets, anyway--is to start the engine and run it at 1,500-2,000 rpm for 15-20 minutes to bed in the cam (tune mixture, timing, etc. for rpms and smoothness while it's running). The idea is to provide plentiful oil flow to the cam and tappets during initial bedding-in. Would this not apply to a Healey engine? Some say 'break it in like you're going to drive it,' like my father who has rebuilt numerous auto and other engines (corollary: 'break it in slow, get a slow car'). He doesn't worry about the cam. I know for aircraft (piston) engines break-in is critical--it's universally recommended to run the engine at high power settings, full rich at lower altitudes and no short hops for the first 50 hours or so. To not do so is to almost guarantee that the rings won't seat. I would recommend adding some sort of ZDDP additive to the oil--at the least, it can't hurt and it may help protect the cam during break-in. Before you start the engine, spin it over with the plugs out until you get an oil pressure reading on the gauge (hopefully, you used copious amounts of assembly lube). Also, it's recommended to run at varying speeds and loads for at least the first few hundred miles so you don't build a low ridge on the cylinder walls. I don't think most new cars even state a breakin procedure--the machining and clearances are so much more precise it isn't necessary. bs ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Sep 9 07:45:48 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 09:45:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: <7C90E2561BF54265B8FFAEB08364E83E@tm> References: <7C90E2561BF54265B8FFAEB08364E83E@tm> Message-ID: <0BD699DEFD0C4218B972260B8E2FE81C@LIFEBOOK> Tadek, I'm already reading a few contrasting suggestions here regarding your initial engine start up. Here is what I always do: 1. fill the cooling system with water rather than antifreeze mixture. That way if you find a leak in anything, all you're losing is water. proper antifreeze or coolant mixture can be added later. 2. make sure the engine oil has an adequate amount of ZDDP additive for the important initial running in of the cam lobes and cam followers 3. temporarily remove spark plugs and spin the engine on the starter motor until you have oil pressure showing at the gauge. That ensures the oil filter is full and oil has completely circulated throughout the engine. This may take 30 to 40 seconds of spinning until the gauge needle shows pressure. 4. install spark plugs, pull out choke cable and ensure fuel is present. 5. make sure you are in a well ventilated area with plenty of fresh air. 6. start engine and watch closely for any leaks, oil or water. 7. bring the idle speed up to about 1500 to 1800 RPM and maintain this fast idle speed. This is very important to allow the initial bedding in of the cam lobes and cam followers. 8. maintain this fast idle for at least 15 minutes, checking the top hose and the temperature gauge to make sure that the thermostat has opened at the correct temperature. I always use a 165 degree F thermostat. If all is well with your cooling system the temperature reading during this time shouldn't go much over the thermostat rating. 9. during this fast idle running, initial mixture settings and balances can be performed on the carbs, checks can be done for exhaust leaks as joints heat up and expand, engine paints will start initial burn off and cure, etc. 10. after the 15 minute run, bring the idle speed down to about 900 RPM and then gently shut off, again checking for leaks, etc. 11. THE MOST IMPORTANT: go celebrate your achievement! Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > Hello, > > I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). > > I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 > engine. > > The engine is filled with run-in oil. > > Many thanks, > > Tadek From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Sep 9 08:10:01 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 16:10:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: <0BD699DEFD0C4218B972260B8E2FE81C@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <7032CF563D824236B0FB7C572DA0DC46@tm> Rich, Many thanks! When do you change the oil? I am using Millers run-in oil for the startup.. Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 3:46 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Tadek, I'm already reading a few contrasting suggestions here regarding your initial engine start up. Here is what I always do: 1. fill the cooling system with water rather than antifreeze mixture. That way if you find a leak in anything, all you're losing is water. proper antifreeze or coolant mixture can be added later. 2. make sure the engine oil has an adequate amount of ZDDP additive for the important initial running in of the cam lobes and cam followers 3. temporarily remove spark plugs and spin the engine on the starter motor until you have oil pressure showing at the gauge. That ensures the oil filter is full and oil has completely circulated throughout the engine. This may take 30 to 40 seconds of spinning until the gauge needle shows pressure. 4. install spark plugs, pull out choke cable and ensure fuel is present. 5. make sure you are in a well ventilated area with plenty of fresh air. 6. start engine and watch closely for any leaks, oil or water. 7. bring the idle speed up to about 1500 to 1800 RPM and maintain this fast idle speed. This is very important to allow the initial bedding in of the cam lobes and cam followers. 8. maintain this fast idle for at least 15 minutes, checking the top hose and the temperature gauge to make sure that the thermostat has opened at the correct temperature. I always use a 165 degree F thermostat. If all is well with your cooling system the temperature reading during this time shouldn't go much over the thermostat rating. 9. during this fast idle running, initial mixture settings and balances can be performed on the carbs, checks can be done for exhaust leaks as joints heat up and expand, engine paints will start initial burn off and cure, etc. 10. after the 15 minute run, bring the idle speed down to about 900 RPM and then gently shut off, again checking for leaks, etc. 11. THE MOST IMPORTANT: go celebrate your achievement! Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > Hello, > > I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). > > I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 > engine. > > The engine is filled with run-in oil. > > Many thanks, > > Tadek From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Sep 9 08:19:54 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 16:19:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: <4C88E1D4.1090309@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8BADD80F4E554F3E9D5D3E489F0FE69A@tm> Well, It can certainly get interesting :-) BTW, I am using Millers run-in oil. Volvo 1800 engines (the B18/B20 series) are to be run initially at 2000-2500 rpm, otherwise the rings will not sit in and the camshaft could be ruined due to limited lubrication. Tadek From barrie at look.ca Thu Sep 9 09:07:46 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 11:07:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? In-Reply-To: <791B0E56F898492FBBAA95CD7718BBB0@tm> References: <791B0E56F898492FBBAA95CD7718BBB0@tm> Message-ID: Tadek, I had a BJ8 not a 100 - but never had a heating problem. But I have had massive problems with building my MGB GT V8. Overheating was an enormous problem and here is the sequence of changes I made to solve it....it may help. And when I say overheating I mean, like your friend, boiling fuel in the carburettor! I already had a 14" 2,950 CFM electric fan installed 1) Had exhaust manifold and primary exhaust pipes ceramic coated - enormous improvement 2) Had engine tuned by someone who knew about Edelbrock (Weber) carbs - dropped temperature significantly. 3) Installed aluminium radiator - huge improvement - now engine runs "cool". Looking at your email I would go for tuning engine, checking your timing especially. Failing that then you have a long list of possibilities from thermostat, to blockage, to water pump, but for heaven's sake do not try "water wetter". At 03:57 AM 9/9/2010, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: >Hello, > >A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the car >overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol (so he >described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old head. The >temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to 190-200F. > >Any thoughts anyone? > > >Tadek >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705--721-9060 From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 09:27:27 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:27:27 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Engine start procedure References: <553C3150-A982-44B5-8663-6F73E71F64E8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <273ED07D-A9DB-4DEC-9631-46B0713CBDFB@gmail.com> > Ok - this is more about the initial firing - than the "ok - its > running" question.. > Can I add 3 important things to the already comprehensive lists > offered? > 1. If you've just rebuilt your entire car, humour me, and remove > your engine to chassis strap, and the earth/ battery strap. Now fire > up your angle grinder, with a coarse grinding pad. Now grind off all > the lovely new paint on the chassis where these bolt on. > If you feel inclined, rub with some diaelectric grease. Otherwise, a > wipe of engine oil on fresh metal is fine.make sure you have a good, > clean earth!!! > 2. Now you can stop worrying about who will/ how will/ your > beautiful new paint get scratched. You just did it! > 3. Make sure you filled/ primed your oil filter. Don't wait to pump > it full. > And crack the oil pressure guage line behind your guage, and pack/ > wrap some paper handtowel there. Then when you crank the engine for > the first time, watch for when when the oil hits the paper, stop it, > tighten the line, and do it again. Ie bleed the line. Before it > fires. Ie plugs out. > You can also prime the oil lines in the block - search the archives. > And as Rich said - once it fires, has oil pressure, and runs - > RELAX, and clean up - and enjoy!!! > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 09/09/2010, at 11:45 PM, "Rich C" > wrote: > >> Tadek, >> >> I'm already reading a few contrasting suggestions here regarding >> your initial engine start up. Here is what I always do: >> >> Rich Chrysler >> >> From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" >>> Hello, >>> I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). >>> I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the >>> 100 >>> engine. >>> >>> The engine is filled with run-in oil. From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Sep 9 09:59:54 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 17:59:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: :-) I know I am cursing the mistake ;-) Many thanks Chris and all - I will forward all your comments... As always the list is a fantastic resource! Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 5:45 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? Here's a few thoughts.... I'd be cursing out of town too... 1. Check the thermostat. Is it not operating? 2. Check the radiator. New? Yes, but is it already blocked from crap in the block/ head? 3. What is the capacity of the new aluminium radiator? Everyone knows the best way to reduce weight in a radiator is to make a smaller one. ie less water. That's the REAL advantage of an aluminium radiator. Make it hold less water. The weight is the water - not the vessel holding it!!! Make it smaller capacity - Then it weighs less. It's not about the minimal weight of an alloy version. Aluminium radiator = smaller capacity = less water = less weight. Fine on a race car, not so good on a road car. 4. I think fuel boiling is a symptom. But as already suggested, wrap/ ceramic coat exhaust. Are heat sheilds already in place??? 5. Air deflectors -std - already fitted? 6. NEVER put a fan on the outside of a radiator in a Healey. Not if you want it to run at optimal temperature (180 - 185). It blocks too much air flow. 7. If all else fails - redistrip/ chemistrip the block. Sent from my iPhone On 09/09/2010, at 5:57 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the > car > overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol > (so he > described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old > head. The > temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Sep 9 10:01:22 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:01:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] semi off topic Message-ID: Just had a call from a friend who has a 6 cyl. Austin engine from a 1952 Jensen. It has a truck like gear box and a Laycock O/D unit. Anyone familiar with this unit? dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 10:54:16 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:54:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? In-Reply-To: <791B0E56F898492FBBAA95CD7718BBB0@tm> References: <791B0E56F898492FBBAA95CD7718BBB0@tm> Message-ID: <4C891138.4020500@comcast.net> FWIW, I have a similar problem with our BN2--we can't get the front carb float valve to seal up (may be contributing to our fuel pump runon problem). Symptoms are: fuel dribbling out of jet and, occasionally, will spit out the overflow tube. Our problem doesn't seem to be related to engine temperature, but I'll be watching the responses. bs Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the car > overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol (so he > described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old head. The > temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to 190-200F. > > Any thoughts anyone? > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ruvino at ripnet.com Thu Sep 9 10:33:14 2010 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:33:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil Message-ID: <0102CB6582D24F2892D46952850F41AD@HPp6520f> Am about to change the oil in the gear box and was going to put in Redline MTL-90, 20W50. Currently have MT-90 and don't see a difference. Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is recommending Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and the owner is thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. Any thoughts about this? Carl BN-4 From warthodson at aol.com Thu Sep 9 11:39:46 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 13:39:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ebay BJ8 Message-ID: <8CD1E5D215A67E7-2064-1A91@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> Steve, HBJ8L25732 for sale on ebay. Do you have a record of it? See item #130429088203 Gary Hodson From peter.svilans at rogers.com Thu Sep 9 11:49:55 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:49:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] semi off-topic Message-ID: <001401cb5047$6a0d2ea0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Jensens acquired the four-litre Austin engine as an appeasement from Leonard Lord to Richard Jensen, for copying closely the Jensen PW sedan to produce their very similar looking Austin Sheerline sedan in 1948. The motor was used in the Jensen PW sedan & drophead (PW for Post-War, intended as a Bentley-fighter), as well as in the low, sleek, aluminum-bodied, 100 mph Jensen Interceptor. The 3,993 cc six-cylinder motor was intended to pull the heavy luxury Sheerline sedan, and so put out a strong (for 1949) 130 bhp at 4,000 rpm. It was based on the 1939 3.5 litre Austin "K" truck motor, and used a single downdraft Zenith Stromberg carb. Later versions used in the Austin Princess had optional triple SU carbs. The Princess survived until 1968 in mostly the wedding and funeral trade. The motors were coupled to four speed column shift gearboxes (which didn't do as well as three-speeders) and a bit later got overdrive. Too bad the Jensen didn't survive along with the motor. Best Peter From peter.svilans at rogers.com Thu Sep 9 12:11:17 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:11:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] semi off-topic Message-ID: <004301cb504a$65e9bc50$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> You can weld up bullet holes...... (sniff) From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 9 12:30:45 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:30:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil In-Reply-To: <0102CB6582D24F2892D46952850F41AD@HPp6520f> References: <0102CB6582D24F2892D46952850F41AD@HPp6520f> Message-ID: <3D3932A7-B3E5-4AAE-B510-4A2F24009269@sbcglobal.net> This will raise as much controversy as brake fluid does. The original spec was for a 30 wt non detergent oil which is a little hard to find. At that time there wasnt a light weight gear oil. Now there are all sorts of oils available. You will want to stay with the correct viscosity oil. Now engine oil and transmission oils are measured differently for their viscosity ratings. A 75/80 wt gear oil is the same viscosity as a 30 wt engine oil. Red Line oils make a RedLIne MTL which is a75/80 wt gear made specificly for Manual Transmissions. You also can use the MT-90 but it is actuall a little heavy for the original specs. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Sep 9, 2010, at 9:33 AM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > Am about to change the oil in the gear box and was going to put in > Redline > MTL-90, 20W50. Currently have MT-90 and don't see a difference. > > Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is > recommending > Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and > the owner is > thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. > > Any thoughts about this? > > Carl > BN-4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Thu Sep 9 12:32:22 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:32:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] semi off-topic In-Reply-To: <001401cb5047$6a0d2ea0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <001401cb5047$6a0d2ea0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: Since I was working on an Interceptor last night, why the switch from this 4 liter engine to the Chrysler Hemi engines? Going for the performance boost? Jerry From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Sep 9 12:45:43 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:45:43 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Tranny Oil Message-ID: <21b1d.60a0d360.39ba8557@aol.com> In a message dated 9/9/10 11:20:45 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is > recommending > Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and the > owner is > thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. > Seems to me that I read somewhere that Triumph specified a different weight of oil for trannies than is true of Healeys -- keep in mind that Healeys share the oil with the overdrive and use it for hydraulic actuation as well as lubrication; that might make a difference. That having been said, no reason Valvoline Racing Oil wouldn't work, since it works in the engine. I use MTL-90 in mine (since I buy it for my MGA race car) and like the performance. Gary From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Sep 9 12:57:37 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:57:37 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] semi off-topic In-Reply-To: References: <001401cb5047$6a0d2ea0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: I think Briggs Cunningham took a page from the Allard play book.. frogeye at porterscustom.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 12:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] semi off-topic Since I was working on an Interceptor last night, why the switch from this 4 liter engine to the Chrysler Hemi engines? Going for the performance boost? Jerry _______________________________________________ From don at anglesey.us Thu Sep 9 13:02:39 2010 From: don at anglesey.us (Don) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:02:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil In-Reply-To: <0102CB6582D24F2892D46952850F41AD@HPp6520f> Message-ID: Carl, I used Valvoline Racing 20-50w for numerous years but a couple years back changed to Redline MT-90. The Redline seems to provide a smoother shift but no big change. After all the changes made to the oils in the last few years I decided to go synthetic and use Redline 10-40w in the engine too. I have heard the MTL-90 is better suited for our transmission but until I have to change it again it seems to be doing the job. HTH, Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 10:33 AM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil Am about to change the oil in the gear box and was going to put in Redline MTL-90, 20W50. Currently have MT-90 and don't see a difference. Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is recommending Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and the owner is thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. Any thoughts about this? Carl BN-4 _______________________________________________ From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 13:07:49 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 12:07:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? In-Reply-To: <4C891138.4020500@comcast.net> References: <791B0E56F898492FBBAA95CD7718BBB0@tm> <4C891138.4020500@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C893085.7050507@comcast.net> Forgot to add my question: anyone had any luck using Grose Jets to solve this--or similar--problem? I know, GJs are reputed to have had QA problems, but I've had them in my BJ8 forever and they've worked perfectly. bs Bob Spidell wrote: > FWIW, I have a similar problem with our BN2--we can't get the front > carb float valve to seal up (may be contributing to our fuel pump > runon problem). Symptoms are: fuel dribbling out of jet and, > occasionally, will spit out the overflow tube. > Our problem doesn't seem to be related to engine temperature, but I'll > be watching the responses. > > bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From peter.svilans at rogers.com Thu Sep 9 13:41:42 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 15:41:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] semi off-topic Message-ID: <001401cb5057$07c81100$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> The original post-war Jensen Interceptor with aluminum body was in production until 1957. Meanwhile, the Jensen 541 with a fiberglass body was introduced in 1953, still using the Austin motor but with triple carbs. It was the first British production car with 4-wheel disc brakes. In 1960 the 541-S was the first British car with seat belts standard. The old 130 hp Austin motor was no longer powerful enough by 1960, so the answer lay in Chrysler's big-block 5.9 litre engine with Torqueflite transmission. A new chassis was needed to handle the 305 bhp, so the slant-eyed fiberglass-bodied Jensen CV-8 was introduced in 1962. A year and a bit later, the engine was replaced by the 6.3 litre (383 cu in) motor with 330 bhp. In 1966 Vignale in Turin Italy turned the CV-8 into the new Interceptor. In 1971 the Interceptor SP (for Six Pack) was introduced with three twin-choke Holleys and 385 bhp, recognizable by its louvered bonnet and vinyl roof. Jensen lasted until May, 1976 Best, Peter From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 9 13:56:07 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 21:56:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] semi off topic In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C893BD7.5060201@chello.nl> This engine is a very sturdy unit of 4 liter capacity. It was used in the Austin Sheerline/Princess, later Jensen PW, Jensen (early) Interceptor, Jensen 541, 541R and 541S and it was also used various other cars, trucks and perhaps tractors. They can be fitted with 1, 2 or 3 SU's and the top range delivered about 150BHP. The gearbox used was a Jaguar Moss box, I believe, fitted with OD. I may be wrong but dimensionally it may be similar to the 3 liter as fitted to the AH. It is a rather lazy but very strong unit with bags of torque that will last for ever if properly maintained. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Sep 9 14:17:47 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 16:17:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil In-Reply-To: <3D3932A7-B3E5-4AAE-B510-4A2F24009269@sbcglobal.net> References: <0102CB6582D24F2892D46952850F41AD@HPp6520f> <3D3932A7-B3E5-4AAE-B510-4A2F24009269@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <032b01cb505c$12c450a0$384cf1e0$@verizon.net> Tractor Supply Company has it and so does Grainger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VALVOLINE-Valvoline-1UBY5 Advance Auto Parts has it part number 55063 Auto Zone Carries it their part number 60142 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 2:31 PM To: Dr. C. Rubino Cc: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil This will raise as much controversy as brake fluid does. The original spec was for a 30 wt non detergent oil which is a little hard to find. At that time there wasnt a light weight gear oil. Now there are all sorts of oils available. You will want to stay with the correct viscosity oil. Now engine oil and transmission oils are measured differently for their viscosity ratings. A 75/80 wt gear oil is the same viscosity as a 30 wt engine oil. Red Line oils make a RedLIne MTL which is a75/80 wt gear made specificly for Manual Transmissions. You also can use the MT-90 but it is actuall a little heavy for the original specs. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Thu Sep 9 14:25:00 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 21:25:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 4 Litre Engine - was - semi off topic In-Reply-To: <4C893BD7.5060201@chello.nl> References: <4C893BD7.5060201@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees I don't believe that there was much in common between the six cylinder 'Austin' engine and the later 'BMC' 3 litre. However there is a strong link between the 4 litre and the A90 Atlantic/A-H 100 engine. The four cylinder is largely a cut down 6 cylinder with many common parts such as pistons, con rods, valves etc. There is a history in one of Geoff Healey's book explaining that there was a need for a 4 cylinder during WWII that 'Austin' developed but it did not go into production then; but it did after the war to give the old pre war Austin 12 respectable performance but with virtually no body change. The engine went through a few developments fitted to the A70 Hampshire and Hereford. It then went to the same bore as the 4 litre as the 2.6 litre that we are all familiar with. The engine was also fitted to commercial vehicles for many years in petrol form. The diesel version was another development fitted into London Taxis and various other vehicles. Regards > This engine is a very sturdy unit of 4 liter capacity. >It was used in the Austin Sheerline/Princess, later Jensen PW, Jensen >(early) Interceptor, Jensen 541, 541R and 541S and it was also used >various other cars, trucks and perhaps tractors. >They can be fitted with 1, 2 or 3 SU's and the top range delivered about >150BHP. >The gearbox used was a Jaguar Moss box, I believe, fitted with OD. >I may be wrong but dimensionally it may be similar to the 3 liter as >fitted to the AH. >It is a rather lazy but very strong unit with bags of torque that will >last for ever if properly maintained. >Kees Oudesluijs >NL > >[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a >name of coudesluijs.vcf] >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah at jharper.demon.co.uk -- John Harper From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 15:20:34 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 05:20:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: <8BADD80F4E554F3E9D5D3E489F0FE69A@tm> References: <4C88E1D4.1090309@comcast.net> <8BADD80F4E554F3E9D5D3E489F0FE69A@tm> Message-ID: Tadek - sorry should have clarified that idle should be set at 1,500 rpm for first start up. My email was confusing. Hope you used cam / tappet lube/paste with high Zinc content - critical for proper bedding in. Chris Dimmock's suggestion for bleeding oil pressure guage is a good one! On 9/9/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Well, > > It can certainly get interesting :-) > > BTW, I am using Millers run-in oil. > > Volvo 1800 engines (the B18/B20 series) are to be run initially at 2000-2500 > rpm, otherwise the rings will not sit in and the camshaft could be ruined > due to limited lubrication. > > Tadek > > -- Sent from my mobile device From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 9 15:58:41 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:58:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] carpet set Message-ID: <16305.96783.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> looking to brighten up the interior alittle who would you all say has the nicest producy for a bj8,is wilton will too expensive and is there a kit out there thanks,also the car is white over red with red interior would black carpenting look stupid From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Sep 9 16:25:15 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 18:25:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carpet set In-Reply-To: <16305.96783.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <16305.96783.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <489D09FD89CA40F89FB997F36764B3C0@LIFEBOOK> I use Heritage Upholstery's Karvel carpet. It's extremely close to the original, and their Red Karvel holds a raw edge as the original stuff did. Wool and nylon can fray and unravel along the edges. No binding should be done on Healey carpets as they aimed for the look of continuity. I'd suggest red over introducing another colour (as you mention black). See pictures I'm including. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john doe" Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 5:58 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] carpet set > looking to brighten up the interior alittle who would you all say has the > nicest producy for a bj8,is wilton will too expensive and is there a kit > out there thanks,also the car is white over red with red interior would > black carpenting look stupid > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr07 010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr07 005.jpg] From fmags at cox.net Thu Sep 9 19:10:26 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 20:10:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] gearbox oil Message-ID: <92B8EEEC306446EF83102B73ED0803E7@FrankPC> Carl, I use a non detergent aviation oil in my BJ8 gearbox with great results. It is Aeroshell 80 which is a 40 wt non detergent oil. Frank On Sep 9, 2010, at 9:33 AM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > Am about to change the oil in the gear box and was going to put in > Redline > MTL-90, 20W50. Currently have MT-90 and don't see a difference. > > Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is > recommending > Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and > the owner is > thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. > > Any thoughts about this? > > Carl > BN-4 From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Sep 9 19:59:24 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 20:59:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure In-Reply-To: References: <4C88E1D4.1090309@comcast.net><8BADD80F4E554F3E9D5D3E489F0FE69A@tm> Message-ID: <47CA86D1E7C34C0B8FD2EEC7C28D27BA@GregPC> Only thing I would add is leave the hood (bonnet) off if you have not yet replaced it. 1. Engine will run cooler, much cooler in a Healey as the underhood air pressure/heat build up seems to be worse in these cars than most. 2. You will have better light and slightly better access to make the inevitable adjustments to carbs, timing, etc. 3. Worst case if the motor has to come back out one less thing to do remove/refit. I drove around for a while with the hood off after my rebuild to keep temps down as it was summer. Plus the newly painted block looked kind off cool anyway. Greg Lemon From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 9 21:01:19 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 22:01:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Slippage !! In-Reply-To: <47CA86D1E7C34C0B8FD2EEC7C28D27BA@GregPC> References: <4C88E1D4.1090309@comcast.net><8BADD80F4E554F3E9D5D3E489F0FE69A@tm> <47CA86D1E7C34C0B8FD2EEC7C28D27BA@GregPC> Message-ID: <4C899F7F.8080601@justbrits.com> Sorry to bomb the List, but the 'mind' IS the 1st thing to go !!! Would our resident HAM Operator drop me a note direct, please. Ed From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Sep 9 23:44:19 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:44:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Message-ID: Hello all, I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the state it was in: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed to the state it's in today: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with questions.. Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very original BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the last coat of paint with the gearbox): http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# The paint process looked like this: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# Now the small print: I am aware that: - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I wanted to insulate against heat - flasher is not original (looking for one) - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper one here) - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet - handbrake not insulated yet - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver before paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which although probably not correct, looks better to me :-) - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my previous one - few items are still missing Tadek From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Fri Sep 10 06:30:49 2010 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:30:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What can we say is a big bravo!!!! for this wonderful work . . Thank to you for sharing all these photos , sure that it can help others in the process of a restoration . Gilbert Gauthier Diligui au site internet http://www.austinhealeyquebec.com/ Le 10-09-10 ` 01:44, Tadeusz Malkiewicz a icrit : > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the > state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with > questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very > original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the > last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I > wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper > one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver > before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which > although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my > previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Sep 10 06:35:53 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 8:35:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Slippage !! In-Reply-To: <4C899F7F.8080601@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <20100910083553.AG042.226335.root@pamxwww05-z01> Ah---the truth from Ed at last. VBG VBG--------:) ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: ============= Sorry to bomb the List, but the 'mind' IS the 1st thing to go !!! Would our resident HAM Operator drop me a note direct, please. Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 07:49:26 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 06:49:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8A3765.7020208@comcast.net> Outstanding! bs Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 10 08:35:22 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:35:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <4C8A3765.7020208@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Outstanding! bs Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Sep 10 08:50:39 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:50:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: <4C8A3765.7020208@comcast.net> Message-ID: <035c01cb50f7$89d8ebb0$9d8ac310$@verizon.net> Critical comments can also be good comments and they are warranted in this case. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 10:35 AM To: 'Bob Spidell' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Bob, May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Outstanding! bs Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Sep 10 09:09:15 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:09:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: <4C8A3765.7020208@comcast.net> Message-ID: <036001cb50fa$23d6d900$6b848b00$@verizon.net> BTW I just put a link to his photos on the Restoration section of the Links page on my site. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 10:35 AM To: 'Bob Spidell' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Bob, May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Outstanding! bs From joesmathers at gmail.com Fri Sep 10 10:00:48 2010 From: joesmathers at gmail.com (Joe Smathers) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:00:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] After 5 year layup - Starting Help Message-ID: Thanks to Steve Byers, I have re-found the Healey list. After over 5 years of No Healey Fun due To an illness, it is time to get moving again. I have a 55 100 and a 60 3000 that have not been started for at least 5 years. Both car engines were In great shape at last start. The 55 has a blown transmission but that is another matter. My question from this great list is * How to go about the start up of these engines ? * I want to make sure that I do not damage either engine in the process. Both cars were running when put up, had gasoline in the tank and plenty of oil in the crankcase. Many thanks for the help and I will let you know how it goes. Best regards, Joe 1955 100 BN1 1960 3000 BT7 -- From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 10:05:20 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:05:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <035c01cb50f7$89d8ebb0$9d8ac310$@verizon.net> References: <4C8A3765.7020208@comcast.net> <035c01cb50f7$89d8ebb0$9d8ac310$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C8A5740.1000302@comcast.net> Well, I'll tell ya, I looked but didn't see anything that I could criticize, except: 1) you're missing an engine 2) my work on my BN2 isn't nearly as perfect in a lot of instances (guess I didn't bug Rich enough) Where in the heck did you find the cloth-covered battery/starter cables???!!! bs John Sims wrote: > Critical comments can also be good comments and they are warranted in this > case. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > Bob, > > May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... > > Outstanding! > > bs > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Sep 10 10:16:03 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 18:16:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8A59C3.2070003@chello.nl> This has been a lot of work in a very short span of time. The standard looks very good indeed with a good eye for detail. I have a few remarks: -The copper brake pipes, as you mentioned yourself. Copper pipes are prone to fatigue fracture. Better would have been to use steel pipes (I can hardly believe these are not available in Poland) or alternatively cunifer pipes, but these can be hard to get anywhere except in the UK. -The capillary line from the temperature gauge should be solidly fixed to the dashboard, bulkhead etc. to as near as possible to the gauge as possible to prevent vibration. The same applies to the engine side, fix the line solidly to the engine from the bulb to where it leaves the engine, leave 2or 3 loop holes of about 4-5" between the last fixations on the bulkhead and engine. These lines can be very prone to fatigue cracking. -I noticed you did not convert to front brake discs. Chapeau!!!!! Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 10 10:17:39 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:17:39 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] After 5 year layup - Starting Help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Joe With the 100 engine I would not be overly concerned about just starting it in the normal way after checking the obvious. Perhaps the fuel might have become a little 'waxy' but this should not cause a problem and if it flows OK it will clear as the tank is topped up with new fuel I had something similar but with an engine that stood for 12 years after it had done 43,00 miles. I had turned it over a couple of times but not as frequently as I should have done. The engine started OK but was running a little rough and I soon realised that the exhaust was 'puffy'. A couple of valves were sticking so a applied penetrating oil to the valve stems and then ran the engine. In a few minutes everything cleared and the engine ran sweetly. I changed the oil and filter twice, once when the engine had warmed up fully and then after about 100 miles because I was not sure what the penetrating oil might do. The engine has now done another 20 plus thousand miles and is fine. I don't believe that you have anything to be concerned about. Regards >My question from this great list is * How to go about the start up of these >engines ? * I want to make > >sure that I do not damage either engine in the process. Both cars were >running when put up, had > >gasoline in the tank and plenty of oil in the crankcase. -- John Harper From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Sep 10 10:31:02 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:31:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <717514.56363.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Big applause !! Great !! Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 12:44:19 AM Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Hello all, I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the state it was in: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed to the state it's in today: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with questions.. Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very original BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the last coat of paint with the gearbox): http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# The paint process looked like this: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# Now the small print: I am aware that: - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I wanted to insulate against heat - flasher is not original (looking for one) - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper one here) - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet - handbrake not insulated yet - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver before paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which although probably not correct, looks better to me :-) - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my previous one - few items are still missing Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Sep 10 10:56:33 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 18:56:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] After 5 year layup - Starting Help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8A6341.4080800@chello.nl> Before even trying to start, change the oil (also gearbox and rear axle), coolant, fuel, filters etc. Clean the points and plugs. Loosen the fan belt and carefully work loose the water pump as the impeller may have rusted to the carbon seal. Spray some penetrating oil in the carbs and check if the dash pots have oil in them. Check if the pistons move freely. If not dismantle, clean and rebuild. Check the fuel lines, the rubber may have perished. Lubricate the distributor. Add an extra fuel filter just before the carbs to catch dirt and rust in the fuel lines and tank.. Remove the plugs and liberally spray the cilinder/pistons first with penetrating oil and than a few drops of engine oil. Leave overnight. Try turning over the engine by hand with the plugs removed or put the car in 4th gear and push the car a little. When the engine does not turn, the rings and pistons are rusted to the cilinder walls and a rebuild is at hand. Disconnect the fuel pump from the wiring. If the engine does turn over spin, the engine on the starter (new battery) until you have oil pressure. Connect up the fuel pump and check if it is working (ticking), check for fuel leaks (lines, carbs) having the ignition on. If the pump keeps ticking these is either no fuel getting to the pump or there is a fuel leak between pump and engine, perhaps the float valves are stuck. If all OK, refit the plugs.You can try to start up the engine (outside), but keep the revs down!! To make it a bit easier inject some aether in your carbs. Watch out for backfire. It will belch oil and smoke for a while. When the engine is running check for leaks (oil, water) and tune your carbs if necessary. The clutch may be stuck. Usually this will loosen when the engine heats up, or start up the car in first gear with the clutch depressed and hope it will free itself. If not it is best to remove the gearbox and dismantle the clutch. After the engine is running OK, your first priority will be the brakes. After such a long time it is wise to at least inspect and perhaps rebuild/renew the brakes (and the hydraulic parts of the clutch). Replace the brake and clutch fluid. Replace the tires. Than solve all the little problems originating from not driving the car for a long time. Have fun, Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Sep 10 11:03:33 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:03:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <4C8A59C3.2070003@chello.nl> References: <4C8A59C3.2070003@chello.nl> Message-ID: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> Kees, Perhaps you're not as familiar with the Hundred as I read your description of where and how to anchor the capillary line. Your description applies to later 6 cylinder cars. On the Hundred, as with the early 100/Six, the capillary line and temperature sensing bulb fastens into the header tank of the radiator, then the line travels along the inner right side of the shroud lip, fastened by small wrap over clips in 3 places along the side and a 4th along the back before it turns down exactly as Tadek shows and goes through a rubber grommet to the inside of the bulkhead. It then turns to the left (LH drive car) and goes along the inside of the bulkhead and turns once more along the outboard side of the steering column brace where it fastens with another wrap around clip along with the oil line. It then makes an S curve over to the left and enters the back side of the gauge. Front disc brakes on this lovely and accurate BN2? I should hope not. Properly set up drums need much less pedal effort for greater stopping ability in normal street driving. Discs advantages only show themselves in repeated hard braking such as in a race, but without a servo assist require more leg effort. Of course a properly set-up drum system needs occasional adjustment for optimum braking. I think it's called routing maintenance. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 12:16 PM To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... > This has been a lot of work in a very short span of time. The standard > looks very good indeed with a good eye for detail. > I have a few remarks: > -The copper brake pipes, as you mentioned yourself. Copper pipes are > prone to fatigue fracture. Better would have been to use steel pipes (I > can hardly believe these are not available in Poland) or alternatively > cunifer pipes, but these can be hard to get anywhere except in the UK. > -The capillary line from the temperature gauge should be solidly fixed > to the dashboard, bulkhead etc. to as near as possible to the gauge as > possible to prevent vibration. The same applies to the engine side, fix > the line solidly to the engine from the bulb to where it leaves the > engine, leave 2or 3 loop holes of about 4-5" between the last fixations > on the bulkhead and engine. These lines can be very prone to fatigue > cracking. > -I noticed you did not convert to front brake discs. > > Chapeau!!!!! > > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Fri Sep 10 11:54:07 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:54:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] HAM? Message-ID: Ed, Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to find folks with two of my perversions. Can I be of assistance? Jack KA9HEL From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Sep 10 11:57:33 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:57:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> References: <4C8A59C3.2070003@chello.nl> <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <4C8A718D.9040208@chello.nl> Rich, You are right that I did not know the sensor bulb is in the radiator, however the same principle of preventing vibration of the capillary line, especially near the bulb and the gauge, goes by fixing the line as near as possible to the gauge and bulb. I have a box full of to be repaired gauges because of leaking/cracked capillary lines to prove my point. If originality is your goal, yes you should fit drum brakes, and they can certainly work wel enough with proper maintainance. However I had my fair share of front drum brakes on a variety of cars and they nearly always were troublesome. OK, regular maintainance was one aspect, but try it on a VW Beetle, Landrover (very much so), Fiat etc. You just will not know in advance which way you will go when braking. The only cars it usually worked well on were DAF and Renault. Give me discs at all times, hardly ever had problems with those, even on LBC's. On my LandRover SIII I modified the front axle using disc brakes and calipers converted from a Mercedes van/truck, resulting in predictable braking with much less effort, using the original MBC. At the bottom line though Tadek has done a formidable job, in a very short time and has a lovely car to show for it. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Sep 10 12:20:01 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:20:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?HAM=3F?= Message-ID: <4c8a76c2.cc0edf0a.23d6.4823@mx.google.com> Hate to ask, but what is the other? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:54 am Subject: [Healeys] HAM? To: Cc: Ed, Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to find folks with two of my perversions. Can I be of assistance? Jack KA9HEL _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 10 12:38:31 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:38:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Disc brake conversion, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> Rich, Kees, all, A small comment on the brake conversion: yes, the thought has crossed my mind, but I actually never thought of converting it to the Girling set-up, but rather to the Dunlop set-up used on the 100S. In my view (I may be wrong), this makes it a period type modification, not a modern upgrade. I even gotten as far as getting the calipers front & rear (for the square pads), but never really decided on the pistons. There is a company in UK (BG Developments) making modern piston conversions (DW resells them I believe), but if you multiply the cost by 8 it get's quite high. On top there is the rear disc problem (it was discussed on the British car forum some time ago). You can either get from DW or convert from Range Rover or BMW. Last, there are the brackets - these can be sourced from DW as well. All in all, it's a pretty expensive toy and to be honest, neither am I 100% convinced this is the way to go nor do I have the money now to purchase it all... But I would be grateful if anyone could share experiences of having such system, how does it work in practice or what's the stopping power in comparison to a pretty good drum system on the 100. BTW, before anyone asks, I have not managed to obtain the rear calipers with handbrake setup for 100S (I believe they are unique to the 100S) but rather Jaguar ones... :-) Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 7:04 PM To: Oudesluys; Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Kees, Perhaps you're not as familiar with the Hundred as I read your description of where and how to anchor the capillary line. Your description applies to later 6 cylinder cars. On the Hundred, as with the early 100/Six, the capillary line and temperature sensing bulb fastens into the header tank of the radiator, then the line travels along the inner right side of the shroud lip, fastened by small wrap over clips in 3 places along the side and a 4th along the back before it turns down exactly as Tadek shows and goes through a rubber grommet to the inside of the bulkhead. It then turns to the left (LH drive car) and goes along the inside of the bulkhead and turns once more along the outboard side of the steering column brace where it fastens with another wrap around clip along with the oil line. It then makes an S curve over to the left and enters the back side of the gauge. Front disc brakes on this lovely and accurate BN2? I should hope not. Properly set up drums need much less pedal effort for greater stopping ability in normal street driving. Discs advantages only show themselves in repeated hard braking such as in a race, but without a servo assist require more leg effort. Of course a properly set-up drum system needs occasional adjustment for optimum braking. I think it's called routing maintenance. Rich From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 10 12:43:33 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:43:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Message-ID: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> A small question here..: My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is about 5mm gap: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc Anyone has any idea what the problem is? It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. Tadek From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Sep 10 13:11:35 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:11:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> References: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> Message-ID: <8612D7AE0DD640758E92AFDF34427937@LIFEBOOK> Looks like it's not all the way into the 180 degree offset slot. Yeah, I know, simply state the obvious. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 2:43 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine > A small question here..: > > My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount > the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is > about > 5mm gap: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 > or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc > > Anyone has any idea what the problem is? > > It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 10 13:16:33 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:16:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: <05356C9E5783484E910B1E80C3812D47@oscar> Message-ID: <6EC5E971F4EB4A169591E79A5304945B@tm> Many thanks Dave! Does anyone have a photo of the plate? Best, tadek -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Subject: RE: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine There is a thick ~3/16" plate with countersunk holes (3 I think) that centralize the dist. dave -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Subject: RE: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Dave, What face place??.. I have the clamp, but it goes above those 5mm.. Best, tadek -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Subject: RE: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Looks like, by the time you add the face plate and the clamp it should be pretty close. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine A small question here..: My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is about 5mm gap: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc Anyone has any idea what the problem is? It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. Tadek From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 10 13:19:19 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:19:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <4C8A5740.1000302@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, Many thanks - engine should be there soon - have patience :-) Cloth covered battery cables, available in 2 sizes from Auto Sparks, UK: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=116 There is also a distributor in US.. It was much more difficult to get the NOS original Lucas starter solenoid .. :-) Best, tadek -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 6:05 PM To: John Sims Cc: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Well, I'll tell ya, I looked but didn't see anything that I could criticize, except: 1) you're missing an engine 2) my work on my BN2 isn't nearly as perfect in a lot of instances (guess I didn't bug Rich enough) Where in the heck did you find the cloth-covered battery/starter cables???!!! bs John Sims wrote: > Critical comments can also be good comments and they are warranted in this > case. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > Bob, > > May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... > > Outstanding! > > bs > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Sep 10 13:26:18 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:26:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: <8612D7AE0DD640758E92AFDF34427937@LIFEBOOK> References: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> <8612D7AE0DD640758E92AFDF34427937@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: The drive shaft is pinned to the distributer and as I recall is a gear drive off the cam. So there is no thrust washer or slot drive retaining plate (as on the 6) and the dist. should go all the way down to dist body/block interface. The clamp plate is flush with block under the bolt heads and raised around the dist. body.. I think that's correct.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 1:12 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Looks like it's not all the way into the 180 degree offset slot. Yeah, I know, simply state the obvious. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 2:43 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine > A small question here..: > > My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount > the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is > about > 5mm gap: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 > or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc > > Anyone has any idea what the problem is? > > It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From medlabinc at msn.com Fri Sep 10 13:34:26 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:34:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Message-ID: As reported earlier, I recently saw on the highway what looked to me like a screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway I stopped, went back, and picked it up. Turned out it was a screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common Craftsman screwdriver, really beat up from traffic and in any event good to get off the road I thought Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being useable either I decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears store. Discussion later on the list suggested to me this screwdriver might fall into the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - anyway maybe not mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I would return it to Sears. Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. I also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one with a little longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU carburetor on your Austin Healey. Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the tool man told me - the screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I couldn't. So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears store. And in the bag what do I find. Both screwdrivers. Now what ? Dick Matson / Bj8 From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 10 13:35:12 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:35:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: <4C8A7FC5.6020509@chello.nl> Message-ID: <42B6633C68884A60864A005232083C1D@tm> Many thanks Kees, I am just not sure I understand it all - where is the dog? Top of shaft? Bottom? There is a photo of the distributor on the Advanced Distributors web page: http://tinyurl.com/2bs6nbt Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:58 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Tadek, The offset dog on the distributor shaft should engage in a slot in the top of the driving shaft. This slot is also off center so that it will only engage in one position. Insert the distributor and press down lightly, then turn the distributor shaft slowly and if all is well it should engage at some point. You may have to lift the distributor once or twice for succes. After that the distributor body will sink and sit properly. Never use undue force. Kees Oudesluijs NL From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Sep 10 13:35:12 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:35:12 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] dist Message-ID: <69B11477035848BEAFCE2C1198BA877E@oscar> Right.. the dist shaft has about an additional inch of length below the gear drive and must fit into a machined hole to keep everything centralized. Perhaps that connection point is galled or the thrust washer, if used, is incorrect thickness or the gears are simply not properly engaged.. rock the engine a bit. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Sep 10 13:47:02 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:47:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] dist In-Reply-To: <69B11477035848BEAFCE2C1198BA877E@oscar> References: <69B11477035848BEAFCE2C1198BA877E@oscar> Message-ID: <536664F07D9E400980FB86BB686A3908@oscar> With the rockers on cyl#4 rocking, insert the dist such that the rotor is pointing to the plug wire on #1 cylinder. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Porter Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 1:35 PM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] dist Right.. the dist shaft has about an additional inch of length below the gear drive and must fit into a machined hole to keep everything centralized. Perhaps that connection point is galled or the thrust washer, if used, is incorrect thickness or the gears are simply not properly engaged.. rock the engine a bit. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Sep 10 14:06:44 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:06:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] HAM? In-Reply-To: <4c8a76c2.cc0edf0a.23d6.4823@mx.google.com> References: <4c8a76c2.cc0edf0a.23d6.4823@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <8CD1F3AD3834B03-1868-2FF9@Webmail-m104.sysops.aol.com> Maybe Austin Healeys? Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: eyera3 at gmail.com To: Jack Feldman ; shop at justbrits.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 8:20 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? Hate to ask, but what is the other? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:54 am Subject: [Healeys] HAM? To: Cc: Ed, Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to find folks with two of my perversions. Can I be of assistance? Jack KA9HEL _______________________________________________ From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 14:13:41 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:13:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <035c01cb50f7$89d8ebb0$9d8ac310$@verizon.net> References: <4C8A3765.7020208@comcast.net> <035c01cb50f7$89d8ebb0$9d8ac310$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C8A9175.7000406@comcast.net> OK ... I looked again. Isn't the strap holding the cold air hose to the duct on the firewall supposed to be the band type? Obviously, you'll have to take the whole car apart and start over. bs On 9/10/2010 7:50 AM, John Sims wrote: > Critical comments can also be good comments and they are warranted in this > case. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > Bob, > > May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Sep 10 14:53:11 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 22:53:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: <42B6633C68884A60864A005232083C1D@tm> References: <42B6633C68884A60864A005232083C1D@tm> Message-ID: <4C8A9AB7.4080801@chello.nl> Sorry Tadek, Just disregard my comments on the distributor. They were for non gear driven distributors. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 10 15:05:51 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:05:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8A9DAF.2090906@justbrits.com> Sorry Dick, but......... << Now what ? >> resolve yourself to the fact that you are screwed !!! Simple, huh ??? Anon From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 10 15:09:38 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:09:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: References: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> <8612D7AE0DD640758E92AFDF34427937@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <4C8A9E92.9040906@justbrits.com> << I think that's correct.. >> I agree, Dave. It's just like the MGs ones. Tiny hole in block below the cam and dist. gear engages cam gear right there !! Tadek, can be a real PITA every once in awhile but it WILL go down & mesh. Just like somebody else mentioned be SURE of rotor orientation !! Easy to get one [1] tooth off. BTDT !! Ed From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Sep 10 15:43:18 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:43:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?HAM=3F?= Message-ID: <4c8aa668.4f7ddc0a.2ae3.ffff808d@mx.google.com> Our cars are s virtue. We prevent the spread of rust, help with jobs and our wives know where to fund us. So, it must be something else Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: healeyguy at aol.com Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 1:06 pm Subject: [Healeys] HAM? To: Cc: Maybe Austin Healeys? Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: eyera3 at gmail.com To: Jack Feldman ; shop at justbrits.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 8:20 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? Hate to ask, but what is the other? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:54 am Subject: [Healeys] HAM? To: Cc: Ed, Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to find folks with two of my perversions. Can I be of assistance? Jack KA9HEL _______________________________________________ From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Sep 10 15:58:15 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:58:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <804244.44021.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> File under no good deed goes unpunished. You now have a positive karma balance, which left uncorrected will upset the careful balance of the universe. Only thing for it is to throw the new screwdriver on the side of the road and hope someone else finds it. If, however they run over it and puncture a tire, you will have a negative karma balance and have to start the process over. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 9/10/10, Dick Matson wrote: From: Dick Matson Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 3:34 PM. Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the tool man told me - the screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I couldn't. So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears store. And in the bag what do I find. Both screwdrivers. Now what ? Dick Matson / Bj8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Sep 10 16:06:09 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 22:06:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] HAM? In-Reply-To: <4c8aa668.4f7ddc0a.2ae3.ffff808d@mx.google.com> References: <4c8aa668.4f7ddc0a.2ae3.ffff808d@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Interesting typo. "Our wives know where to "fund" us" :) My mother-in-law was here for Christmas a couple of years ago and thought I got short changed on the gifts end of things. "you just got those little pieces of metal" But I was very happy. Robert D > > Our cars are s virtue. We prevent the spread of rust, help with jobs and our wives know where to fund us. So, it must be something else > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: healeyguy at aol.com > > Maybe Austin Healeys? > Aloha > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > > Hate to ask, but what is the other? > > Ira Erbs > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Jack Feldman" > > Ed, > > Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to > find > folks with two of my perversions. > > Can I be of assistance? > > Jack > KA9HEL From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri Sep 10 16:43:32 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:43:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] HAM? In-Reply-To: <4c8aa668.4f7ddc0a.2ae3.ffff808d@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <705979.46992.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Well Said!!! --- On Fri, 9/10/10, eyera3 at gmail.com wrote: > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? > To: healeyguy at aol.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 5:43 PM > Our cars are s virtue. We prevent the > spread of rust, help with jobs and our wives know where to > fund us. So, it must be something else > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: healeyguy at aol.com > Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 1:06 pm > Subject: [Healeys] HAM? > To: > Cc: > > > Maybe Austin Healeys? > Aloha > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > > To: Jack Feldman ; > shop at justbrits.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 8:20 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? > > > Hate to ask, but what is the other? > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Jack Feldman" > Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:54 am > Subject: [Healeys] HAM? > To: > Cc: > > > Ed, > > Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It > is hard to > find > folks with two of my perversions. > > Can I be of assistance? > > Jack > KA9HEL > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From rwil at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 10 16:45:35 2010 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:45:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> Message-ID: <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> The "copper" brake lines may not be pure copper. they may be copper plated steel, or some alloy of copper that does not work harden. Someone who has used the "copper" brake lines, probably from the UK, might be able to clarify this point. -Roland BN1 with steel lines from Mr. Finespanner From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Fri Sep 10 16:56:14 2010 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herb Miller) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:56:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering arm torque Message-ID: What torque should be applied to the big nut that holds the steering arm to the steering box? I do not find the value in my shop manual. Herb Miller Sent from my iPhone From drberkowitz at hotmail.com Fri Sep 10 17:06:24 2010 From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:06:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year Message-ID: Wishing a Happy and Healthy New Year to fellow members of the tribes, and all others as well! From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Sep 10 17:11:12 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:11:12 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Steering arm torque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3FE7A2B3384A47A08E0FE7727DD89950@oscar> Herb, Just a "WAG" as they say, but if 80 ft lbs is good for lug nuts, I'd guess 100 is sufficient for that nut. Since it is probably both tapered and splined and uses a lock washer to boot, it isn't going to come apart without a puller after once being tightened. Using torque valves is really only important when one needs to have even clamping over a multi-fastener object or when delicate threads might be damaged from over tightening. Engineers? Your thoughts.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Miller Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 4:56 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Steering arm torque What torque should be applied to the big nut that holds the steering arm to the steering box? I do not find the value in my shop manual. Herb Miller Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From drberkowitz at hotmail.com Fri Sep 10 17:17:33 2010 From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:17:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Back fire Message-ID: Just read an old post concerning backfiring. My BJ7 has been back firing badly for about a year. I thought it was due to a small leak in the flex pipe, which I have repaired - no change. Someone mentioned lean mixture as a possible cause. I have reset my carbs to run about as rich as I can but this also has not helped. I do notice when the engine is cold there is less back firing. I'm not sure if that is because of the temperature or because the choke is pulled out giving me a very rich mixture. However with the engine hot and the choke out there is also a marked decrease in back firing. By the way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, like going down hill or decelerating from high speeds with my foot off the gas. Other then the back firing I do not seem to have any other problems with the motor. Any suggestions! From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 10 17:23:39 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 18:23:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] HAM? In-Reply-To: <4c8aa668.4f7ddc0a.2ae3.ffff808d@mx.google.com> References: <4c8aa668.4f7ddc0a.2ae3.ffff808d@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4C8ABDFB.1040108@justbrits.com> << ...and our wives know where to fund us. So, it must be something else >> Since the latter is incorrect Ira, stands to reason that the former is CORRECT, right ??? LOL !! Ed PS: er, whether they know it or not ?!?!?!?!?!? From warthodson at aol.com Fri Sep 10 17:35:22 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:35:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Steering arm torque In-Reply-To: <3FE7A2B3384A47A08E0FE7727DD89950@oscar> References: <3FE7A2B3384A47A08E0FE7727DD89950@oscar> Message-ID: <8CD1F57F8DD6143-1A4C-8A00@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com> The steering arm is tapered & splied, but the nut is not. It also does not use a lock washer. It does use a cotter pin. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter To: 'Herb Miller' ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 6:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque Herb, Just a "WAG" as they say, but if 80 ft lbs is good for lug nuts, I'd guess 00 is sufficient for that nut. Since it is probably both tapered and plined and uses a lock washer to boot, it isn't going to come apart without puller after once being tightened. Using torque valves is really only mportant when one needs to have even clamping over a multi-fastener object r when delicate threads might be damaged from over tightening. Engineers? Your thoughts.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE lbuquerque, NM USA 87107 05-352-1378 954 BN2 1959 AN5 orter Custom Bicycles From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Fri Sep 10 17:37:04 2010 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:37:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Back fire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What about your gasoline octane grade ???? Gilbert Le 10-09-10 ` 19:17, Leonard Berkowitz a icrit : > Just read an old post concerning backfiring. My BJ7 has been back > firing > badly for about a year. I thought it was due to a small leak in the > flex > pipe, which I have repaired - no change. Someone mentioned lean > mixture as a > possible cause. I have reset my carbs to run about as rich as I can > but this > also has not helped. I do notice when the engine is cold there is > less back > firing. I'm not sure if that is because of the temperature or > because the > choke is pulled out giving me a very rich mixture. However with the > engine > hot and the choke out there is also a marked decrease in back > firing. By the > way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, > like going > down hill or decelerating from high speeds with my foot off the > gas. Other > then the back firing I do not seem to have any other problems with > the motor. > Any suggestions! > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Sep 10 17:47:03 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:47:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Steering arm torque In-Reply-To: <8CD1F57F8DD6143-1A4C-8A00@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com> References: <3FE7A2B3384A47A08E0FE7727DD89950@oscar> <8CD1F57F8DD6143-1A4C-8A00@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <2BB4AFA9C1594C7AB1CE70D58CB3F00B@oscar> Then if the holes line up at whatever torque is showing, it's as close as the factory used. Put in the cotter pin and pat yourself for a job well done. ;~) To be perfectly clear, tighten beyond the holes and castle nut clearance, then back off nut just enough to pass the cotter through. This is a tough audience and when it's slow here I'm way too chatty.. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _____ From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 5:35 PM To: frogeye at porterscustom.com; hgmiller3 at qwest.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque The steering arm is tapered & splied, but the nut is not. It also does not use a lock washer. It does use a cotter pin. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter To: 'Herb Miller' ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 6:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque Herb, Just a "WAG" as they say, but if 80 ft lbs is good for lug nuts, I'd guess 100 is sufficient for that nut. Since it is probably both tapered and splined and uses a lock washer to boot, it isn't going to come apart without a puller after once being tightened. Using torque valves is really only important when one needs to have even clamping over a multi-fastener object or when delicate threads might be damaged from over tightening. Engineers? Your thoughts.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 17:57:23 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:57:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Back fire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8AC5E3.9080103@comcast.net> Check for an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold/downpipe flange (blown gasket, etc.). bs On 9/10/2010 4:17 PM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > Just read an old post concerning backfiring. My BJ7 has been back firing > badly for about a year. I thought it was due to a small leak in the flex > pipe, which I have repaired - no change. Someone mentioned lean mixture as a > possible cause. I have reset my carbs to run about as rich as I can but this > also has not helped. I do notice when the engine is cold there is less back > firing. I'm not sure if that is because of the temperature or because the > choke is pulled out giving me a very rich mixture. However with the engine > hot and the choke out there is also a marked decrease in back firing. By the > way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, like going > down hill or decelerating from high speeds with my foot off the gas. Other > then the back firing I do not seem to have any other problems with the motor. > Any suggestions! > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 10 18:00:48 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:00:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Back fire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8AC6B0.5040507@justbrits.com> << By the way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, >> Just gave yerself a hint, Len !! !! Ed From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri Sep 10 18:14:51 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:14:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <285596.31121.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Enjoy you're new screwdriver(s). You told the truth and the tool guy made a decision to honor the warrantee even knowing how you acquired it. Greg --- On Fri, 9/10/10, Dick Matson wrote: > From: Dick Matson > Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program > To: "AustinHealey List" > Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 3:34 PM > As reported earlier, I recently saw > on the highway what looked to me like a > screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway > I stopped, went back, > and picked it up. > > Turned out it was a screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common > Craftsman > screwdriver, really beat up from traffic and in any event > good to get off the > road I thought > > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being > useable either I > decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears > store. > > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this > screwdriver might fall into > the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - > anyway maybe not > mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I > would return it to > Sears. > > Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. > > I also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one > with a little > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU > carburetor on your Austin > Healey. > > Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the > tool man told me - the > screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I > couldn't. > > So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears > store. And in the bag what > do I find. Both screwdrivers. > > Now what ? > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From healey at hunterbane.com Fri Sep 10 19:31:03 2010 From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:31:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B99F584-B1F3-466D-BFCF-177A6DDC0117@hunterbane.com> Looks like a mounting bolt is missing from the steering box to frame. Olin On Sep 10, 2010, at 1:44 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the > state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with > questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very > original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the > last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I > wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper > one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver > before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which > although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my > previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey at hunterbane.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Sep 10 20:09:44 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:09:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program In-Reply-To: <285596.31121.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <285596.31121.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1845655C-4AE6-43CC-9E49-11D0EEBB3A8B@gmail.com> As I said, warrenty travels with tool. This is not a moral issue. I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Sep 10, 2010, at 5:14 PM, Greg Mandas wrote: > Enjoy you're new screwdriver(s). > > You told the truth and the tool guy made a > decision to honor the warrantee even knowing how you acquired it. > > Greg > > --- > On Fri, 9/10/10, Dick Matson wrote: > >> From: Dick Matson > >> Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program >> To: > "AustinHealey List" >> Date: Friday, September 10, > 2010, 3:34 PM >> As reported earlier, I recently saw >> on the highway what > looked to me like a >> screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway >> > I stopped, went back, >> and picked it up. >> >> Turned out it was a > screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common >> Craftsman >> screwdriver, really beat > up from traffic and in any event >> good to get off the >> road I thought >> >> > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being >> useable either I >> decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears >> store. >> >> > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this >> screwdriver might fall > into >> the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - >> anyway > maybe not >> mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I >> would > return it to >> Sears. >> >> Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. >> >> I > also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one >> with a little >> > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU >> carburetor on your > Austin >> Healey. >> >> Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the >> > tool man told me - the >> screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I >> > couldn't. >> >> So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears >> store. And > in the bag what >> do I find. Both screwdrivers. >> >> Now what ? >> >> Dick > Matson / Bj8 >> _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested > annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Fri Sep 10 21:41:49 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK><2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> Message-ID: <9496FA42A22D4B25A563698E3CB2E803@JerryPC> These "copper" kits have nickel in the alloy. I don't know the concentration mix but here is a web site. http://www.hillmanbrass.com/Products/Copper-Nickel-90-10.htm From Editorgary at aol.com Fri Sep 10 21:48:40 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 23:48:40 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Back Firing Message-ID: <7cc57.7aadd5f4.39bc5618@aol.com> In a message dated 9/10/10 4:41:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > By the > way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, like > going > down hill or decelerating from high speeds with my foot off the gas. > Other > then the back firing I do not seem to have any other problems with the > motor. > Are we talking about real backfiring -- the sound of a gun shot? -- or are we just talking about some sort of blub-blub-blub sounds when you let off on the gas. If the former, I'll leave it to the experts to sort out. If the latter, wouldn't worry about it -- it's often caused by simply running a little rich, and has been considered such a desirable "old sports car sound" that (I kid you not) BMW programmed it into the sound of the Mini Cooper S's until they got so many customers coming in complaining that their cars were "back-firing" that they changed the ignition program to make it go away. gary. From medlabinc at msn.com Fri Sep 10 21:51:08 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:51:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Message-ID: Thank you. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: I Erbs To: Greg Mandas Cc: AustinHealey List ; Dick Matson Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 7:09 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program As I said, warrenty travels with tool. This is not a moral issue. I Erbs Sent from my iPod > >> From: Dick Matson > > >> Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program >> To: > "AustinHealey List" > >> Date: Friday, September 10, > 2010, 3:34 PM >> As reported earlier, I recently saw >> on the highway what > looked to me like a >> screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway >> > I stopped, went back, >> and picked it up. >> >> Turned out it was a > screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common >> Craftsman >> screwdriver, really beat > up from traffic and in any event >> good to get off the >> road I thought >> >> > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being >> useable either I >> decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears >> store. >> >> > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this >> screwdriver might fall > into >> the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - >> anyway > maybe not >> mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I >> would > return it to >> Sears. >> >> Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. >> >> I > also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one >> with a little >> > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU >> carburetor on your > Austin >> Healey. >> >> Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the >> > tool man told me - the >> screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I >> > couldn't. >> >> So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears >> store. And > in the bag what >> do I find. Both screwdrivers. >> >> Now what ? >> >> Dick > Matson / Bj8 From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Sep 11 00:39:13 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:39:13 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> Message-ID: <1DB886A5553843978E27109AB665792D@tm> Well, These copper brake lines are designed for brake fluid and specially made for them. That's the reason I am not really so much afraid of them... Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:rwil at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 12:46 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: 'Austin Healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... The "copper" brake lines may not be pure copper. they may be copper plated steel, or some alloy of copper that does not work harden. Someone who has used the "copper" brake lines, probably from the UK, might be able to clarify this point. -Roland BN1 with steel lines from Mr. Finespanner From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Sep 11 00:39:57 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:39:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <9B99F584-B1F3-466D-BFCF-177A6DDC0117@hunterbane.com> Message-ID: <530254BE55D64475A143483E4C4654CD@tm> Yep, but already in place - I could not find the BSF nut for some time... -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:healey at hunterbane.com] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 3:31 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Looks like a mounting bolt is missing from the steering box to frame. Olin On Sep 10, 2010, at 1:44 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the > state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with > questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very > original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the > last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I > wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper > one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver > before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which > although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my > previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey at hunterbane.com From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Sat Sep 11 00:58:09 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 07:58:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> References: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> Message-ID: Tadek Did you replace the camshaft bearings? When fitting the centre one it is very difficult to get it in precise rotational alignment. If it is a little out the apertures in the bearing will not fully align with the block and the edges might protrude a little. This can cause problems when fitting the oil pump or the distributor. The outside diameter on the gears is tight fit when being fitted through the cam bearing which as I say has to be carefully aligned. I know of this problem from experience. Fortunately I noticed this early and was able to remove a very small amount of bearing edge with a file. Regards >A small question here..: > >My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount >the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is about >5mm gap: >http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 >or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc > >Anyone has any idea what the problem is? > >It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. > -- John Harper From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Sep 11 01:23:22 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 17:23:22 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Drilling Cast Iron - Non Healey Message-ID: G'day Sorry I am not in Austin-Healey mode at the moment as we have our garden open in a month or so and there's a zillion things to do. We bought the world's heaviest cast iron fountain and will sit it in a pond that's dug into the ground. Thankfully I have finished the digging. The pump fits into the base of the fountain, but it has to be drilled to allow water to flow in freely. I have never drilled cast iron and I keep thinking that it will take me a month of Sundays. Anyone had the experience and share some advice please. Actually I did take the BN3 out this morning to the local post office to pick up a wrought iron seat that was packed in a huge cardboard box. Wouldn't fit into our day to day car, but not a problem in the Austin-Healey. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From willig at wtnet.de Sat Sep 11 02:26:07 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:26:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: References: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> Message-ID: <003701cb518a$fc29b6c0$f47d2440$@de> Hi Tadek, I encountered the same problem a few weeks ago. The solution was very simple: I had filed the engine with oil, while the distributor was off the engine. The oil filled the bore in the block were the end of the drive shaft should be seated. What happened is, that when I inserted the dizzy the drive shaft compressed the oil to a certain extend..but then finito, nada, the dizzy would not seat completely. Solution: I sucked the oil out of the bore with a syringe to which a piece of clear washer hose was attached. After that all was well. Regards Thomas Willig >A small question here..: > >My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount >the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is about >5mm gap: >http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 >or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc > >Anyone has any idea what the problem is? > >It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Sep 11 02:37:33 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:37:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: <003701cb518a$fc29b6c0$f47d2440$@de> Message-ID: Thomas, Dave, Rich and all, Problem solved! It turned out, that Advanced Distributors media blasted the shaft and the end that goes into the bore in the block was not as smooth as it should be. We polished it and it goes in fine!.. Many thanks for all help here from all sides of the Atlantic :-) Tadek -----Original Message----- From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig at wtnet.de] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 10:26 AM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: AW: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Hi Tadek, I encountered the same problem a few weeks ago. The solution was very simple: I had filed the engine with oil, while the distributor was off the engine. The oil filled the bore in the block were the end of the drive shaft should be seated. What happened is, that when I inserted the dizzy the drive shaft compressed the oil to a certain extend..but then finito, nada, the dizzy would not seat completely. Solution: I sucked the oil out of the bore with a syringe to which a piece of clear washer hose was attached. After that all was well. Regards Thomas Willig From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Sep 11 03:00:26 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 19:00:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine In-Reply-To: <003701cb518a$fc29b6c0$f47d2440$@de> References: <003B03C0162644F3ABF432FCAB9F0778@tm> <003701cb518a$fc29b6c0$f47d2440$@de> Message-ID: <6651A01D-20F0-48C7-9518-50EDEA5F77E2@gmail.com> Thomas, That's something you would never read in a workshop manual. A great diagnosis and solution! Well diagnosed! Thank you for sharing. Sincerely. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 11/09/2010, at 6:26 PM, "T+ B Willig" wrote: > Hi Tadek, > > I encountered the same problem a few weeks ago. The solution was very > simple: I had filed the engine with oil, while the distributor was > off the > engine. The oil filled the bore in the block were the end of the > drive shaft > should be seated. What happened is, that when I inserted the dizzy > the drive > shaft compressed the oil to a certain extend..but then finito, > nada, the > dizzy would not seat completely. Solution: I sucked the oil out of > the bore > with a syringe to which a piece of clear washer hose was attached. > After > that all was well. > > Regards > > Thomas Willig > >> A small question here..: >> >> My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried >> to mount >> the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There >> is about >> 5mm gap: >> http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/ >> HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 >> or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc >> >> Anyone has any idea what the problem is? From warthodson at aol.com Sat Sep 11 05:50:57 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 07:50:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <9496FA42A22D4B25A563698E3CB2E803@JerryPC> References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK><2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm><30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> <9496FA42A22D4B25A563698E3CB2E803@JerryPC> Message-ID: <8CD1FBEBB36A3B8-1348-A670@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com> The lines are 90% copper-10% Nickel, thus the name. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Costanzo To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... These "copper" kits have nickel in the alloy. I don't know the concentration mix but here is a web site. http://www.hillmanbrass.com/Products/Copper-Nickel-90-10.htm _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 11 05:54:19 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 04:54:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park Message-ID: <880111.94656.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> anyone going today From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Sep 11 06:45:50 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:45:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Message-ID: <000601cb51af$43c98cc0$cb5ca640$@rr.com> Hello, Healeyphiles - Since my water temp gauge tested to be 100% accurate, and the various thermostats (unsleeved, sleeved, and no thermostat at all) had no effect on preventing the gauge from going to 212 on a hot day, the only thing left to do was to investigate the radiator. I decided to spring for re-coring the radiator with a modern core that has larger tubes, more of them, and more cooling fin area, too. I got the re-cored radiator installed this morning (67 deg. F in Havelock) and took the car on a test drive as I did before - 5 miles out, turn around at the traffic light, and 5 miles back home. I had removed the sleeved thermostat for the previous test, so this morning's test was done without a thermostat at all. Here's the result: The car warmed up (slowly, as expected without the thermostat) to about 180 as it idled at 1000 rpm in the driveway for 15 minutes. Once underway at speed (55 mph), the gauge dropped down to 140 and stayed there to the stoplight, where it moved up to 160 as I waited to make my U-turn. It was back to 140 when I got home. Although a real test will come when the ambient temperature is higher, it appears that the new radiator does have a positive effect. I'll reinstall the sleeved thermost later and see how it does. The radiator guy at North Raleigh Radiator said there was nothing physically wrong with my old radiator core - no plugging of the tubes or anything else visible. His comment was that that kind of core is usually found on industrial equipment like forklifts instead of cars. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From gmandas at yahoo.com Sat Sep 11 06:49:36 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 05:49:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... Message-ID: <512779.14781.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Speaking of which. I have a full BJ8 with booster set still coiled up in the box I'd like sell. Like other sets, it does not have the front "to caliper" shorties. Contact me off list. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 11, 2010, at 7:50 AM, "warthodson at aol.com" wrote: The lines are 90% copper-10% Nickel, thus the name. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Costanzo To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... These "copper" kits have nickel in the alloy. I don't know the concentration mix but here is a web site. http://www.hillmanbrass.com/Products/Copper-Nickel-90-10.htm _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Sep 11 07:04:45 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:04:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park In-Reply-To: <880111.94656.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <880111.94656.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john doe" Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > anyone going today > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat Sep 11 08:03:01 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:03:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100911100301.8ZHT7.241645.root@pamxwww02-z01> Ok---I can't help myself-----"He will be with Jane" No offense John----just funning you. tom ---- Rich C wrote: ============= If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john doe" Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > anyone going today > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Sep 11 08:01:48 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:01:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Message-ID: <20100911.070225.20190.260059@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Dick, You have received absolution from Father Erbs, so we may all now move on. Amen. > Thank you. > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: I Erbs > To: Greg Mandas > Cc: AustinHealey List ; Dick > Matson > Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 7:09 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program > > > As I said, warrenty travels with tool. This is not a moral issue. > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > > > >> From: Dick Matson > > > > >> Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program > >> To: > > "AustinHealey List" > > > >> Date: Friday, September 10, > > 2010, 3:34 PM > >> As reported earlier, I recently saw > >> on the highway what > > looked to me like a > >> screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway > >> > > I stopped, went back, > >> and picked it up. > >> > >> Turned out it was a > > screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common > >> Craftsman > >> screwdriver, really beat > > up from traffic and in any event > >> good to get off the > >> road I thought > >> > >> > > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being > >> useable either I > >> decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears > >> store. > >> > >> > > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this > >> screwdriver might fall > > into > >> the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - > >> anyway > > maybe not > >> mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I > >> would > > return it to > >> Sears. > >> > >> Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. > >> > >> I > > also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one > >> with a little > >> > > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU > >> carburetor on your > > Austin > >> Healey. > >> > >> Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the > >> > > tool man told me - the > >> screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I > >> > > couldn't. > >> > >> So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears > >> store. And > > in the bag what > >> do I find. Both screwdrivers. > >> > >> Now what ? > >> > >> Dick > > Matson / Bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Human resource Masters Start Earning a Master's Degree or a Master?s Certificate-100% Online! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c8b8bfd16dad575941st06duc From randerson33 at triad.rr.com Sat Sep 11 08:07:57 2010 From: randerson33 at triad.rr.com (randerson33 at triad.rr.com) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:07:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] After 5 year layup - Starting Help In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100911140757.S4ATS.11999.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> Joe, Good to see you back in the Healey world. I look foward to see you at Healey events. Jerry Anderson BN4 1957 Longbridge ---- Joe Smathers wrote: > Thanks to Steve Byers, I have re-found the Healey list. After over 5 years > of No Healey Fun due > > To an illness, it is time to get moving again. > > I have a 55 100 and a 60 3000 that have not been started for at least 5 > years. Both car engines were > > In great shape at last start. The 55 has a blown transmission but that is > another matter. > > > > My question from this great list is * How to go about the start up of these > engines ? * I want to make > > sure that I do not damage either engine in the process. Both cars were > running when put up, had > > gasoline in the tank and plenty of oil in the crankcase. > > Many thanks for the help and I will let you know how it goes. > > > > Best regards, Joe > > 1955 100 BN1 > > 1960 3000 BT7 > > > -- > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/randerson33 at triad.rr.com From edriver at sasktel.net Sat Sep 11 09:27:20 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:27:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park In-Reply-To: References: <880111.94656.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C8B9FD8.70205@sasktel.net> Priceless!!!!! Rich C wrote: > If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "john doe" > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > >> anyone going today >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Sep 11 09:31:56 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:31:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park In-Reply-To: <4C8B9FD8.70205@sasktel.net> References: <880111.94656.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4C8B9FD8.70205@sasktel.net> Message-ID: ..look for the guy with the tag on his toe.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of E.A. Driver Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 9:27 AM To: Rich C Cc: john doe; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park Priceless!!!!! Rich C wrote: > If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "john doe" > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > >> anyone going today >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Sep 11 09:42:05 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:42:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hand break broke Message-ID: I need some quick advice. I am not where I can raise the car. Drove the BJ8 this morning and parked on a sight hill. The hand break did not catch and pulled all the way back. It does have the ratchet sound but no action. I'm thinking a clevis pin at the front of the line. I cannot get under to see that area but the rear looks OK. Has anyone had this experience? Is there any other possible cause besides a broken cable? Thanks Rich Kahn From medlabinc at msn.com Sat Sep 11 09:59:57 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:59:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program In-Reply-To: <-6486714358383314085@unknownmsgid> References: <-6486714358383314085@unknownmsgid> Message-ID: Ha . . . ! That's a good one. So . . I Erb says Craftsman tool warranties go with the tool. And that's the way the Sears tool guy put it also. He say's the circumstances don't matter. So my good deed for the day stands. A screwdriver is off Highway 2 in Central WA. And to boot I turned out the beneficiary of a brand new SU-adjusting screwdriver. I say that's wonderful. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: Dick Matson Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:31 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Absolutely no choice. You must throw one on the highway to appease the screwdriver gods!!! Michael S On 2010-09-10, at 3:34 PM, "Dick Matson" > wrote: > As reported earlier, I recently saw on the highway what looked to me like a > screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway I stopped, went back, > and picked it up. > > Turned out it was a screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common Craftsman > screwdriver, really beat up from traffic and in any event good to get off the > road I thought > > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being useable either I > decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears store. > > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this screwdriver might fall into > the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - anyway maybe not > mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I would return it to > Sears. > > Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. > > I also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one with a little > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU carburetor on your Austin > Healey. > > Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the tool man told me - the > screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I couldn't. > > So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears store. And in the bag what > do I find. Both screwdrivers. > > Now what ? > > Dick Matson / Bj8> From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 11 10:47:02 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:47:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Craftsman_Tool_Exchange_Program?= Message-ID: <4c8bb278.22788e0a.6314.fffff269@mx.google.com> Rewards for good intentions Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dick Matson" Date: Sat, Sep 11, 2010 8:59 am Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program To: "AustinHealey List" Ha . . . ! That's a good one. So . . I Erb says Craftsman tool warranties go with the tool. And that's the way the Sears tool guy put it also. He say's the circumstances don't matter. So my good deed for the day stands. A screwdriver is off Highway 2 in Central WA. And to boot I turned out the beneficiary of a brand new SU-adjusting screwdriver. I say that's wonderful. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: Dick Matson Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:31 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Absolutely no choice. You must throw one on the highway to appease the screwdriver gods!!! Michael S On 2010-09-10, at 3:34 PM, "Dick Matson" > wrote: > As reported earlier, I recently saw on the highway what looked to me like a > screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway I stopped, went back, > and picked it up. > > Turned out it was a screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common Craftsman > screwdriver, really beat up from traffic and in any event good to get off the > road I thought > > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being useable either I > decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears store. > > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this screwdriver might fall into > the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - anyway maybe not > mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I would return it to > Sears. > > Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. > > I also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one with a little > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU carburetor on your Austin > Healey. > > Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the tool man told me - the > screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I couldn't. > > So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears store. And in the bag what > do I find. Both screwdrivers. > > Now what ? > > Dick Matson / Bj8> _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From dcongleton at embarqmail.com Sat Sep 11 11:04:26 2010 From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 13:04:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park References: <880111.94656.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4C8B9FD8.70205@sasktel.net> Message-ID: He will be with Jane :^) ----- Original Message ----- From: "E.A. Driver" To: "Rich C" Cc: "john doe" ; Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > Priceless!!!!! > > Rich C wrote: >> If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? >> >> Rich >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "john doe" >> Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM >> To: >> Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park >> >>> anyone going today >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dcongleton at embarqmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Sep 11 11:14:06 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 19:14:06 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread In-Reply-To: <000601cb51af$43c98cc0$cb5ca640$@rr.com> References: <000601cb51af$43c98cc0$cb5ca640$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4C8BB8DE.2050404@chello.nl> Problem solved I would say. From now on the temp should not go far beyond the temp the thermostat opens unless a very cool thermostat is fitted. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sat Sep 11 12:09:35 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:09:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hand break broke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Richard, most likely cause is the outer of the cable having pulled through its locating bracket inside the tunnel. This is a real bear to fix requiring the removal ot the driveshaft and the gearbox tunnel at the very least. Michael Salter On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I need some quick advice. I am not where I can raise the car. Drove the > BJ8 > this morning and parked on a sight hill. The hand break did not catch and > pulled all the way back. It does have the ratchet sound but no action. I'm > thinking a clevis pin at the front of the line. I cannot get under to see > that > area but the rear looks OK. Has anyone had this experience? Is there any > other > possible cause besides a broken cable? > Thanks > Rich Kahn From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 11 12:15:40 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:15:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hand break broke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Isn't the gear box tunnel welded to the floor? It is on my BT7. Did you mean tranny cover? On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 11:09 AM, Michael Salter < msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote: > Hi Richard, most likely cause is the outer of the cable having pulled > through its locating bracket inside the tunnel. > This is a real bear to fix requiring the removal ot the driveshaft and the > gearbox tunnel at the very least. > Michael Salter > > On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Richard Kahn >wrote: > > > I need some quick advice. I am not where I can raise the car. Drove the > > BJ8 > > this morning and parked on a sight hill. The hand break did not catch and > > pulled all the way back. It does have the ratchet sound but no action. > I'm > > thinking a clevis pin at the front of the line. I cannot get under to see > > that > > area but the rear looks OK. Has anyone had this experience? Is there any > > other > > possible cause besides a broken cable? > > Thanks > > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From raymead at comcast.net Sat Sep 11 15:49:46 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:49:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? Message-ID: <1888136798.1553540.1284241786941.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> hi all recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel which is kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? tks, ray From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Sep 11 15:56:24 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 23:56:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Message-ID: <4E9DD9D38A8949A19FA42E06B53D955E@tm> Hello, I have compiles a list of possible overheating causes on the Healey 100 provided by you in the pat days. Please let me know if you have any comments - maybe we can ask John Sims to put it up on the website? --------------------------------- Overheating problems on a Austin-Healey 100 NOTE: The 4 cylinder engine cooling system in it's stock form is absolutely sufficient to cool the engine. If the engine is overheating something has to be wrong. 1. Check the temperature gauge - is it functioning properly and reading correct temperature? 2. Check the thermostat - is it operating properly, opening at the designated temperature? 3. Try using a 180 or 160 deg thermostat, these cars originally did not use 190+ thermostats. 4. Is the coolant level proper? 5. Is the coolant a proper mix of antifreeze concentrate & water? Too much antifreeze reduces the cooling efficiency of the coolant. 6. Is the Radiator cap a 4-7PSI cap? 7. Is the engine block/head clean? If not, redistrip/ chemistrip the block. 8. Is the radiator clean? Even if new, it could be blocked by debris from a dirty block. A full stock radiator should empty in about 12 seconds. 9. If you changed to aluminum radiator, check it's capacity - is it not less than the stock one? 10. If you have placed a fan in front of the radiator it may be blocking air - try removing it 11. Are all air deflectors fitted? 12. Are the heat shields in place? 13. Check the exhaust manifold for cracks 14. Check if the manifold is not loose 15. It's a good idea to have your manifold ceramic coated - it prevents high temperature radiating from the manifold 16. Is the fan belt properly tight? 17. Is the water pump not defective? 18. Is the head gasket not cracked? 19. Is the head not cracked (the 100 heads are prone to cracking between cylinder 2 & 3) You can check it by checking the compression on cylinders. 20. Has the head not been over shaved? If so, the water channels coming from the block will not match the channels in the head - they run at an angle. 21. The distributor should be set to ~6-10 deg @600 RPM; 35-38 deg max @ ~3000 rpm; Gap 0.015" 22. Are the carbs tuned properly? 23. The carbs are not set too lean? 24. Brake system checked? No brakes binding? 25. Is the oil pressure correct? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Overheating.doc] From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Sep 11 16:46:49 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 06:46:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? In-Reply-To: <1888136798.1553540.1284241786941.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1888136798.1553540.1284241786941.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Just use brasso/simichrome or your favorite metal polish. On 9/12/10, raymead at comcast.net wrote: > hi all > > > > recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel which is > kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? > > > > tks, ray > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat Sep 11 17:23:00 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:23:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting Message-ID: G'day list especially Aussies. I was driving South on the Bruce Highway just North of Brisbane on Friday evening when a 4x4 towing a trailer passed me with a with a white Sprite coupe (Lenham or Sebring style) on it, rego no. 69 AHS (or could have been AHS 69). Anyone know it? Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 Holden V6 PS I was driving a Series 3 Landrover not one of the Healeys! From jmcd206 at msn.com Sat Sep 11 17:36:24 2010 From: jmcd206 at msn.com (Jim McDermott) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 16:36:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 2011 Healey Rendezvous in Vancouver Washington In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Listers' Just a heads up for all of you that missed seeing the Australian Healey Streamliner here in the states when it made its attempt at the speed record on the Bonneville Salt Flats. Well, they are going to make another try in 2011. The Streamliner will be on display at the 2011 Healey Rendezvous in Vancouver, Washington. The Rendezvous is being held from June 27th through July 1st. You can check out more information about the meet at http://cascadeahc.homestead.com/rendezvous.html Thanks Jim McDermott 100-Six BN4 Cascade Austin Healey Club From shop at justbrits.com Sat Sep 11 17:42:44 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 18:42:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8C13F4.901@justbrits.com> Peter......... << G'day list especially Aussies. >> whilst I am not in Oz, I DO have a mate 'down there' who is quite 'versed' on Frogeyes and I have Forwarded your post to him. Owing to the hour, I would not expect to have a reply until tomorrow & I will post his reply ASAP after I get it. Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Sep 11 18:43:31 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:43:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? In-Reply-To: <4E9DD9D38A8949A19FA42E06B53D955E@tm> References: <4E9DD9D38A8949A19FA42E06B53D955E@tm> Message-ID: <03fe01cb5213$867e9510$937bbf30$@verizon.net> Both this and the engine start up procedure will be on my site sometime Sunday. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net; 'John Sims' Subject: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Hello, I have compiles a list of possible overheating causes on the Healey 100 provided by you in the pat days. Please let me know if you have any comments - maybe we can ask John Sims to put it up on the website? --------------------------------- From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 11 18:53:06 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:53:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs Message-ID: <000801cb5214$dd9d53d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Who knows what the quality of the bulk oil at the Quickie lubes is? I found out that I was paying $10.00 more for each oil change in my every day car when I had bottled Castrol put in instead of the bulk oil. Does anyone know if the quality of the bulk oil is inferior or could it be the bottle cost and the name brand makes the big difference? I would think that most oils today should last 3000 to 5000 miles between changes, bulk oil or not. Mark From shop at justbrits.com Sat Sep 11 19:07:06 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:07:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <1DB886A5553843978E27109AB665792D@tm> References: <1DB886A5553843978E27109AB665792D@tm> Message-ID: <4C8C27BA.8080509@justbrits.com> << These copper brake lines are designed for brake fluid and specially made for them.>> Tadek, as Roland alluded to, the lines ARE an alloy and I have sold/installed a 100 [give or take] of them over the years --- all is well with all !! Whilst Doug Reid's pre-formed line sets [per car application] ARE GREAT, I would guess they would be platinum plated [or worse ] for you - LOL !!! << That's the reason I am not really so much afraid of them...>> Rightly so !!! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] From maxandreb1 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 11 20:04:14 2010 From: maxandreb1 at yahoo.com (Maurice Maxwell) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 19:04:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Luggage Rack Not Fitting In-Reply-To: <000a01cb4e16$51c96030$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000a01cb4e16$51c96030$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <287536.39829.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Mark, I had the same problem. Sent the rack back to moss after talking to them over the phone. They were very helpful with my attempts to solve the problem. Then I ordered one from Victoria British and it fit. It seems as though some of the suppliers use different measurements for the distance between the attachment points on the rack. Max 1961 BT7 ________________________________ From: Mark LaPierre To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Mon, September 6, 2010 6:53:26 PM Subject: [Healeys] Luggage Rack Not Fitting Got a new Moss luggage rack that appears to be a wrong fit. I got my old hinge pins out and replaced them with the optional rack pins. These pins have a nut, a threaded area and the acorn nut. My question is where exactly do the rack tabs go in conjunction with the pin/ thread set up. The holes in the rack tabs are big enough to go over the threaded area but the tabs are not welded far enough apart to get them over both the left and the right threaded areas. The rack tabs fit exactly next to the hinges with no extra play what so ever so I can slide the pins through the tab holes but there is no way that I can get the tabs over the threaded area. Can someone tell me the sequence in which the luggage tabs should go on the pins. Or a couple of pictures would be great. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/maxandreb1 at yahoo.com From pennell at cox.net Sat Sep 11 20:12:01 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 22:12:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? In-Reply-To: <1888136798.1553540.1284241786941.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100911221201.ADFI1.43065.imail@eastrmwml41> Ray, I also got an old steering wheel. If was not too bad but the metal and wood needed attention. For the metal it depends on how bad it is. You may need a multistep approach. Starting with around 600 grit sandpaper, followed 1000-1200 grit, then buffing with various grades of dressing on a buffing wheel. How is the wood portion? Keith ---- raymead at comcast.net wrote: > hi all > > > > recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel which is kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? > > > > tks, ray From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Sep 11 21:00:43 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:00:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] hand break Message-ID: Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a big job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the input. Rich Kahn From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sun Sep 12 00:30:28 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:30:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? In-Reply-To: <03fe01cb5213$867e9510$937bbf30$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <1ACEDE5B67FB44D8BD15FF5637D5E063@tm> John, Looking again at my terribly careless and sloppy English, please make sure it is written in English and PolEnglish :-) Tadek -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 2:44 AM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Both this and the engine start up procedure will be on my site sometime Sunday. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net; 'John Sims' Subject: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Hello, I have compiles a list of possible overheating causes on the Healey 100 provided by you in the pat days. Please let me know if you have any comments - maybe we can ask John Sims to put it up on the website? --------------------------------- From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Sep 12 04:07:18 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 06:07:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2011 Healey Rendezvous in Vancouver Washington In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8CA656.4010602@earthlink.net> I heard that the Streamliner will also be in Colorado Springs for AHCA's Conclave which takes place July 3rd - 8th (http://www.conclave2011.com). Can someone confirm? Bruno, any plans to bring the endurance car over again? Cheers, Bob 3000 MkI Registrar Jim McDermott wrote: > Hi Listers' > > Just a heads up for all of you that missed seeing the Australian Healey > Streamliner here in the states when it made its attempt at the speed record on > the Bonneville Salt Flats. Well, they are going to make another try in 2011. > The Streamliner will be on display at the 2011 Healey Rendezvous in Vancouver, > Washington. > > The Rendezvous is being held from June 27th through July 1st. > You can check out more information about the meet at > http://cascadeahc.homestead.com/rendezvous.html > > Thanks > > Jim McDermott > 100-Six BN4 > Cascade Austin Healey Club > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From gbrierton at hotmail.com Sun Sep 12 06:36:11 2010 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:36:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bonnevilleDVDbyAirTightPro Message-ID: Got my copy last week. Great job, Steve! It is a fabulous capture of that once-in-a-lifetime event. Even better than my own snapshots! Get your copy quickly! (No financial interest, etc., etc.) Gary Brierton From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 12 07:06:01 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:06:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] hand break References: Message-ID: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Rich, I installed a new cable not too long ago, going in through the trany cover made the job pretty straight forward. While your at it you can clean up, derust, paint that area that is usually hidden away. Good job for the off driving season. Plan ahead and you can accomplish a lot of stuff that you may find when the cover is off. Like the trany rear bushings that allow the engine to move forward into the radiator if they get too worn or out of adjustment. Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. You may want to remove the passenger side rear seat too to get to some of the cable attachments and take a close look at your fuel pump while your in there. The fun has just begun. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Kahn" To: Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:00 PM Subject: [Healeys] hand break > Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a > big > job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the > input. > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From shop at justbrits.com Sun Sep 12 07:17:26 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:17:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re: Sprite coupe sighting]] Message-ID: <4C8CD2E6.7010906@justbrits.com> Peter, ref your request, answer is below !!! If it's an Oz "Sprite" question, always drop Colin a note. For parts & Service also !!! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting] Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:20:44 +1000 From: Colin Dodds To: Shop at " Just Brits " References: <4C8C121E.3080701 at justbrits.com> Belongs to Alex Robertson, President of the Qld Sprite Car Club. ----- Original Message ----- *From:* Shop at " Just Brits " *To:* Colin Dodds *Sent:* Sunday, September 12, 2010 9:34 AM *Subject:* [Fwd: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting] Hey mate - got an answer to below ?? From Healeys List !! -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:23:00 +1000 From: Peter & Veronica To: G'day list especially Aussies. I was driving South on the Bruce Highway just North of Brisbane on Friday evening when a 4x4 towing a trailer passed me with a with a white Sprite coupe (Lenham or Sebring style) on it, rego no. 69 AHS (or could have been AHS 69). Anyone know it? Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 Holden V6 PS I was driving a Series 3 Landrover not one of the Healeys! _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/shop at justbrits.com From shop at justbrits.com Sun Sep 12 08:32:50 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:32:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] hand break In-Reply-To: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C8CE492.3040905@justbrits.com> << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> H U H ????????? From barrie at look.ca Sat Sep 11 15:32:43 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 17:32:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The List of Parts Message-ID: All the parts that I posted on this list have been sold. I have nothing left at all Thanks for everyone's interest Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com From barrie at look.ca Sat Sep 11 15:42:07 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 17:42:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The British Car Cottage Industries Message-ID: A few years ago I started the not-for-profit web site, www.britcot.com, for those amongst us that can supply stuff or provide services but whose revenue does not allow for promotional expenditure. This mainly because I found a wad of O-rings for Smith & Jaeger gauges, including the square sectioned ones as used on Austin Healeys - I found the latter because I was doing up a BJ8. Since then the site has grown and there are quite a few "subscribers". So the purpose of this missive is to ask anyone who is a "cottage" industry to come on the site. Or, if you know of anyone who fits the "cottage" industry image, please give me his email/web site. There are so many great, but usually diminutive, suppliers of great stuff that unfortunately we never hear of except by word of mouth. Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com From barrie at look.ca Sun Sep 12 08:36:23 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 10:36:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? In-Reply-To: <1888136798.1553540.1284241786941.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.wes tchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1888136798.1553540.1284241786941.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Try Wenol - it is fantastic. I got it via the Internet. Much better than your usual hardware store stuff At 05:49 PM 9/11/2010, raymead at comcast.net wrote: >hi all > > > >recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel >which is kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? > > > >tks, ray >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705--721-9060 From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun Sep 12 09:18:06 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:18:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The British Car Cottage Industries In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Barrie, Thank you for doing this and I'd like to be included on your web site. I have been restoring British car (primarily Austin Healey) control heads (trafficators) for several years now (over 22) having taken over from the former provider of this service, Vic Wright of Portland, Oregon. Even though the bulk of my business are professional restoration shops I still do quite a bit for the individuals out there restoring their own cars. To date setting up my own website has not been practical and this sounds like a perfect fit for my business. It seems that folks have found me by accident and word of mouth and I'd like to let the rest of the British car world know what I can do for them. I've attached a copy of my restoration brochure which you may use on your web site. If you'd like any more pictures, just let me know. Thanks again. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA * AUSTIN-HEALEY, AC ACE/ACECA-BRISTOL*** * *TRAFFICATOR (CONTROL HEAD) REBUILDING SERVICE On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 2:42 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > A few years ago I started the not-for-profit web site, www.britcot.com, > for those amongst us that can supply stuff or provide services but whose > revenue does not allow for promotional expenditure. This mainly because I > found a wad of O-rings for Smith & Jaeger gauges, including the square > sectioned ones as used on Austin Healeys - I found the latter because I was > doing up a BJ8. Since then the site has grown and there are quite a few > "subscribers". So the purpose of this missive is to ask anyone who is a > "cottage" industry to come on the site. Or, if you know of anyone who fits > the "cottage" industry image, please give me his email/web site. There are > so many great, but usually diminutive, suppliers of great stuff that > unfortunately we never hear of except by word of mouth. > > Regards, > > Barrie Robinson > barrie at look.ca > 705-721-9060 > MGB GT V8 in great nick > Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > www.britcot.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Austin Healey-AC Trafficator Restoration Flyer-II.doc] From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sun Sep 12 09:52:08 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 11:52:08 EDT Subject: [Healeys] bonnevilleDVDbyAirTightPro Message-ID: <13196.707a1934.39be5128@aol.com> Thanks Gary. It was a lot of work, but hearing comments like yours makes me really glad I was able to get this event recorded and shared. And I'm sure you got some great snapshots! Thanks again, Steven In a message dated 9/12/2010 5:36:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, gbrierton at hotmail.com writes: Got my copy last week. Great job, Steve! It is a fabulous capture of that once-in-a-lifetime event. Even better than my own snapshots! Get your copy quickly! (No financial interest, etc., etc.) Gary Brierton From barrie at look.ca Sun Sep 12 08:54:03 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 10:54:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? In-Reply-To: <20100911221201.ADFI1.43065.imail@eastrmwml41> References: <1888136798.1553540.1284241786941.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <20100911221201.ADFI1.43065.imail@eastrmwml41> Message-ID: I am restoring a wheel for my Aston which is like the AH one. It is costing a whacking $300 to have it chromed and then another $325 for fitting a wood (burled walnut) ring. The latter being done by the chap on www.britcot.com - Suggest you take a look because he restores all sorts of steering wheels. At 10:12 PM 9/11/2010, pennell at cox.net wrote: >Ray, > >I also got an old steering wheel. If was not too bad but the metal >and wood needed attention. For the metal it depends on how bad it >is. You may need a multistep approach. Starting with around 600 >grit sandpaper, followed 1000-1200 grit, then buffing with various >grades of dressing on a buffing wheel. > >How is the wood portion? > >Keith > >---- raymead at comcast.net wrote: > > hi all > > > > > > > > recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel > which is kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? > > > > > > > > tks, ray >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705--721-9060 From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 12 10:46:34 2010 From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:46:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] rear oil seal Message-ID: <208249.14946.qm@web120106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> good afternoon all after a drive yesterday heard some noise comming from the left rear tire and upon inspection found that the nuts holding the spline hub on were loose and the sr=crew holding the axel in was also loose and oil was comming out how could i tell if the seal is bad also to replace it do i need to take the hub off thanks ralph From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Sep 12 10:58:02 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 12:58:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? In-Reply-To: <1ACEDE5B67FB44D8BD15FF5637D5E063@tm> References: <03fe01cb5213$867e9510$937bbf30$@verizon.net> <1ACEDE5B67FB44D8BD15FF5637D5E063@tm> Message-ID: <042c01cb529b$a9eb74e0$fdc25ea0$@verizon.net> Both of Tadek's articles - Overheating and Startup procedure for a rebuilt engine are now on my site -- Engine section of the Technical page. And a link to photos of his restoration are on the Restoration section of the Links page. Thanks, Tadek. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 2:30 AM To: 'John Sims'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? John, Looking again at my terribly careless and sloppy English, please make sure it is written in English and PolEnglish :-) Tadek From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 12 11:46:54 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 13:46:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] hand break References: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4C8CE492.3040905@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <000601cb52a2$7dad2570$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> The Edbonics is over my head on that one. Sorry. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> > > H U H ????????? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sun Sep 12 12:08:55 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:08:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? In-Reply-To: <042c01cb529b$a9eb74e0$fdc25ea0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: Jim, please, I was just the person that did the Crtl-C and Crtl-V from what all wrote, on top screwed the English and converted it to PolEnglish... The credit is not mine at all!.. tadek -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 6:58 PM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Both of Tadek's articles - Overheating and Startup procedure for a rebuilt engine are now on my site -- Engine section of the Technical page. And a link to photos of his restoration are on the Restoration section of the Links page. Thanks, Tadek. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 2:30 AM To: 'John Sims'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? John, Looking again at my terribly careless and sloppy English, please make sure it is written in English and PolEnglish :-) Tadek From shop at justbrits.com Sun Sep 12 12:56:13 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 13:56:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] hand break In-Reply-To: <000601cb52a2$7dad2570$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4C8CE492.3040905@justbrits.com> <000601cb52a2$7dad2570$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C8D224D.50706@justbrits.com> How in the H*ll is "HUH ???" as applied to an EXTREMELY "open" statement like YOURs, Mark??? JHC, I 'hope' YOU can understand the above AND RE-read your OWN prose !!! < To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> > H U H ????????? From insptwo at msn.com Sun Sep 12 13:25:53 2010 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 15:25:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs In-Reply-To: <000801cb5214$dd9d53d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000801cb5214$dd9d53d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: I don't know about the cost, but there was a recent article written, by professionals, that stated there was no need to have oil changed at 3,000 miles. It stated that 6,000 or more would be more than adequate for the changes. Bill BJ7 > From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:53:06 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs > > Who knows what the quality of the bulk oil at the Quickie lubes is? I found > out that I was paying > $10.00 more for each oil change in my every day car when I had bottled Castrol > put in instead > of the bulk oil. > > Does anyone know if the quality of the bulk oil is inferior or could it be the > bottle cost and the > name brand makes the big difference? > > I would think that most oils today should last 3000 to 5000 miles between > changes, bulk > oil or not. > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/insptwo at msn.com From shop at justbrits.com Sun Sep 12 13:34:49 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 14:34:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rear oil seal In-Reply-To: <208249.14946.qm@web120106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <208249.14946.qm@web120106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C8D2B59.9020403@justbrits.com> Hi Ralph !! <<...upon inspection found that the nuts holding the spline hub on were loose... >> That tels me that someone, sometime RE-USED those SINGLE- USE nuts !! Sorry !! Please see: http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/SteelLokNut.html I would be VERY leery of the other Lok Nuts !!! Personally, I would also be very leery of plastic-insert Lok Nuts !!! Cheaper, sure. But I would NOT use on my car or a customers' car !!! << ...oil was comming out how could i tell if the seal is bad... >> Just 'surmising' that they are Originals, I WOULD replace. << also to replace it do i need to take the hub off... >> Yes, and pull the axles. It really IS a simple job which will be helped by having re-prints of Factory Service Shop Manual, Factory Service Parts Manual and if you can fine the Haynes one. Also, Moss Cat. has good drawings which you could either 'lift' from the site or just copy from manuals and enlarge. Hint: Masking tape enlargement to side of car above wheel- well for reference. Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Sep 12 14:39:04 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:39:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale In-Reply-To: <4C8D224D.50706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <20100912203905.0C17L.19953.root@cdptpa-web25-z02> I have some used and a couple new 1200 bits for sale from my old car, best reasonable offer takes it, neverending process of cleaning out the garage. Pair of Headlight sockets and cloth wrapped wires, one has the bullet connectors clipped off, the other intact. Do the Concours judges pull the headlights to check these? :) Sockets marked RLE Made in England One axle bump stop (rebound buffer, fits on axle One pair BN1 Spiral Bevel Axle Oil seals (new) On centrifugal switch shaft with weights attached in good working condition All used except as noted, Any reasonable offer plus shipping, reply off list, thanks, Greg Lemon From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Sep 12 14:41:13 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:41:13 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs In-Reply-To: References: <000801cb5214$dd9d53d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C8D3AE9.70202@chello.nl> In my daily driver I change oil once a year, sometimes I drive less than 10.000 other times more than 45.000 miles a year. This never caused any problems at all. Most daily driver cars I have had in the last 30 years or so covered well over 250.000miles before being scrapped because of rust or were sold because I needed something bigger-better-different. I never wore out an engine or gearbox and I am no slouch. I see 100mph and over quite regularly. These were not big lazy engines, but small high revving European and Japanese affairs. Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Sep 12 15:19:24 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:19:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] hand break (BRAKE) In-Reply-To: <000601cb52a2$7dad2570$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q><4C8CE492.3040905@justbrits.com> <000601cb52a2$7dad2570$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <1A0764B596F44083B00A5D338D17509A@LIFEBOOK> To aid our many non English speaking friends around the world.....It's spelled BRAKE in this instance, not BREAK. break is broken. brake stops things. Class dismissed. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark LaPierre" Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 1:46 PM To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > The Edbonics is over my head on that one. Sorry. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" > To: > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > > >> << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> >> >> H U H ????????? >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Sep 12 15:20:28 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 21:20:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale In-Reply-To: <20100912203905.0C17L.19953.root@cdptpa-web25-z02> Message-ID: <20100912212028.7NZSN.20163.root@cdptpa-web25-z02> Before I get corrected "100 bits" not "1200" ---- glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > I have some used and a couple new 1200 bits for sale from my old car, best reasonable offer takes it, neverending process of cleaning out the garage. > > Pair of Headlight sockets and cloth wrapped wires, one has the bullet connectors clipped off, the other intact. Do the Concours judges pull the headlights to check these? :) Sockets marked RLE Made in England > > One axle bump stop (rebound buffer, fits on axle > > One pair BN1 Spiral Bevel Axle Oil seals (new) > > On centrifugal switch shaft with weights attached in good working condition > > All used except as noted, Any reasonable offer plus shipping, reply off list, thanks, > > Greg Lemon > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From shop at justbrits.com Sun Sep 12 15:24:00 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 16:24:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs In-Reply-To: References: <000801cb5214$dd9d53d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C8D44F0.4060507@justbrits.com> Bill, whilst I HAVE read the same thing .......... << by professionals, that stated there was no need to have oil changed at 3,000 miles. It stated that 6,000 or more would be more than adequate for the changes. >> I would expect that we will hear from a Current Expert by no later than noon tomorrow !!!! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Sep 12 15:25:30 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:25:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs In-Reply-To: References: <000801cb5214$dd9d53d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <36A6E1B7A4FF4523B42ACA6027CC1EE6@LIFEBOOK> Bill, That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine and filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter changes a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear resulting in rebuild work. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 3:25 PM To: "healey help" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs > I don't know about the cost, but there was a recent article written, by > professionals, that stated there was no need to have oil changed at 3,000 > miles. It stated that 6,000 or more would be more than adequate for the > changes. > Bill > BJ7 From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sun Sep 12 15:27:44 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 14:27:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] hand break (BRAKE) In-Reply-To: <1A0764B596F44083B00A5D338D17509A@LIFEBOOK> References: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4C8CE492.3040905@justbrits.com> <000601cb52a2$7dad2570$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <1A0764B596F44083B00A5D338D17509A@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Heck, I was wondering when someone was going to say something... Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Rich C wrote: > To aid our many non English speaking friends around the world.....It's > spelled BRAKE in this instance, not BREAK. > > break is broken. > brake stops things. > > Class dismissed. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Mark LaPierre" > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 1:46 PM > To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" ; > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > > The Edbonics is over my head on that one. Sorry. >> >> Mark >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" < >> shop at justbrits.com> >> To: >> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break >> >> >> << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> >>> >>> H U H ????????? >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer at dslextreme.com From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Sep 12 15:28:50 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:28:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale Message-ID: <20100912.142909.20190.261208@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Also, it is "hundred", not "huindred" :) > Before I get corrected "100 bits" not "1200" > > > ---- glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > > I have some used and a couple new 1200 bits for sale from my old > car, best reasonable offer takes it, neverending process of cleaning > out the garage. > > > > Pair of Headlight sockets and cloth wrapped wires, one has the > bullet connectors clipped off, the other intact. Do the Concours > judges pull the headlights to check these? :) Sockets marked RLE > Made in England > > > > One axle bump stop (rebound buffer, fits on axle > > > > One pair BN1 Spiral Bevel Axle Oil seals (new) > > > > On centrifugal switch shaft with weights attached in good working > condition > > > > All used except as noted, Any reasonable offer plus shipping, > reply off list, thanks, > > > > Greg Lemon > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ EXPOSED: Make $99/hr Online BREAKING NEWS: People are beating the recession by working at home. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c8d464b1854bb0abb1st04duc From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 12 15:32:20 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:32:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] hand break References: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q><4C8CE492.3040905@justbrits.com><000601cb52a2$7dad2570$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4C8D224D.50706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <000801cb52c1$fb3dfae0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Nuff said. Not worth the effort. You win. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 2:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > How in the H*ll is "HUH ???" as applied to an EXTREMELY "open" > statement like YOURs, Mark??? > > JHC, I 'hope' YOU can understand the above AND RE-read your > OWN prose !!! > > < > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" > > To: > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> >> H U H ????????? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From shop at justbrits.com Sun Sep 12 15:54:38 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 16:54:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lat Friday Funnies --- VERY SAD......... Message-ID: <4C8D4C1E.4050103@justbrits.com> but funny !!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ul4UrbUsO2o&NR=1&feature=fvwp From scbronson5 at msn.com Sun Sep 12 16:07:20 2010 From: scbronson5 at msn.com (Sid & Maria Bronson) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 16:07:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] brake pads Message-ID: I HAVE A SET OF EBG GREENSTUFF BRAKE PADS MOSS # 585-620 LITTLE TO NO WEAR. ABOUT 6 MONTHS/ 400 MILES. ASKING $ 70 CONTACT ME OFF LIST IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. SID From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Sep 12 16:18:23 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 08:18:23 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re: Sprite coupe sighting]] In-Reply-To: <4C8CD2E6.7010906@justbrits.com> References: <4C8CD2E6.7010906@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <32BE7A334A194120B4E07D26D8FDB445@Notebook> Thanks Ed and Colin! (I bought some badges from Colin just recently) Peter -------------------------------------------------- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 11:17 PM To: "4 - Healeys" Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re: Sprite coupe sighting]] > Peter, ref your request, answer is below !!! > If it's an Oz "Sprite" question, always drop Colin a note. > For parts & Service also !!! > > Ed . From barrie at look.ca Sat Sep 11 09:28:04 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:28:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <1DB886A5553843978E27109AB665792D@tm> References: <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> <1DB886A5553843978E27109AB665792D@tm> Message-ID: Kurnifer was developed for brakes ! I believe Ferrari, Lambo's, and Porsche use it At 02:39 AM 9/11/2010, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: >Well, > >These copper brake lines are designed for brake fluid and specially made for >them. That's the reason I am not really so much afraid of them... > >Tadek > >-----Original Message----- >From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:rwil at sbcglobal.net] >Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 12:46 AM >To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz >Cc: 'Austin Healey list' >Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... > >The "copper" brake lines may not be pure copper. they may be copper >plated steel, or some alloy of copper that does not work harden. >Someone who has used the "copper" brake lines, probably from the UK, >might be able to clarify this point. > >-Roland >BN1 with steel lines from Mr. Finespanner >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From barrie at look.ca Sat Sep 11 09:11:31 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:11:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> Message-ID: Kurnifer, a British development - specifically for brake lines, is 90% copper and 10% nickel. It is used extensively in high performance cars. In my opinion it is the only way to go - and is easily obtained. But in N. America it was slow to catch on just like seat belts, radial tyres and such (NIH syndrome). Currently available copper brake lines do not meet the Canadian govt. specifications and I doubt they meet USA or European specs. By the way, there is common confusion regarding Govt specs. In Canada they just give performance requirements NOT what material meets those specs. So you could use toast or fried eggs as long as it meets specs !!! Copper lines as sold now do not - but if the currently available lines were made stronger (thicker!) they could pass! At 06:45 PM 9/10/2010, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: >The "copper" brake lines may not be pure copper. they may be copper >plated steel, or some alloy of copper that does not work harden. >Someone who has used the "copper" brake lines, probably from the UK, >might be able to clarify this point. > >-Roland >BN1 with steel lines from Mr. Finespanner >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From logical2 at hotmail.com Sun Sep 12 18:01:50 2010 From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 00:01:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Message-ID: Hello Listers; I can't get my fuel gage to work. If I put 12 volts on it it goes right to full. When I ground the Tank terminal it stays at full and I believe that it should go to empty. The car has been changed to negative ground but I don't believe that I've ever seen anything about that effecting the fuel gage. The sending unit is new but I know that doesn't mean that it's good. The car has been sitting for 20+ years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for your help. Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com 1962 BJ7 1969 Midget 1961 Bugeye From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Sep 12 19:30:25 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:30:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale In-Reply-To: <20100912.142909.20190.261208@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> References: <20100912.142909.20190.261208@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: At least I spelled concours right! I guess if may be past time for bifocals. From wsthompson at thicko.com Sun Sep 12 19:43:03 2010 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:43:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Selling my original autographed Healey Sportsboat brochure Message-ID: <002401cb52e5$036e74b0$0a4b5e10$@com> Original Healey Sportsboat brochure with autographs Ebay # 330472014646 From edriver at sasktel.net Sun Sep 12 20:31:52 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:31:52 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale In-Reply-To: References: <20100912.142909.20190.261208@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <4C8D8D18.7030808@sasktel.net> Hi Greg Ignore the word police, if all they have to do is correct a person's spelling they truly over the outhouse or possibly in it ;-) Regards Ed From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Sep 12 21:22:25 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:22:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] hand break In-Reply-To: <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: , <001301cb527b$404f6070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Thanks. I already have got the bushings and rubber trany mounts . I was waiting for winter but now is opportune. > From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:06:01 -0400 > > Rich, I installed a new cable not too long ago, going in through the > trany cover made the job pretty > straight forward. While your at it you can clean up, derust, paint that > area that is usually hidden away. > Good job for the off driving season. Plan ahead and you can accomplish a > lot of stuff that you may > find when the cover is off. Like the trany rear bushings that allow the > engine to move forward into > the radiator if they get too worn or out of adjustment. Also the front U- > joint is a breeze from this area. > > You may want to remove the passenger side rear seat too to get to some of > the cable attachments and take > a close look at your fuel pump while your in there. The fun has just > begun. > > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Kahn" > To: > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:00 PM > Subject: [Healeys] hand break > > > > Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a > > big > > job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the > > input. > > Rich Kahn > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Sep 12 21:47:16 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:47:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Break/brake Message-ID: Sorry, I was p*ssed at the time I wrote it. Break ,brake, now broke ($13 bucks for a screw driver). So give me a brake! (Ha,ha) Rich Kahn From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Sep 12 22:08:11 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 21:08:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> Message-ID: Volvo has used copper alloy brake lines as OE since the days of the 240 if not before. They do not use a different brake line for Canada, so obviously copper brake lines do somehow manage to meet Canadian requirements. Rick On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 8:11 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > Kurnifer, a British development - specifically for brake lines, is 90% > copper and 10% nickel. It is used extensively in high performance cars. > In my opinion it is the only way to go - and is easily obtained. But in N. > America it was slow to catch on just like seat belts, radial tyres and such > (NIH syndrome). Currently available copper brake lines do not meet the > Canadian govt. specifications and I doubt they meet USA or European specs. > By the way, there is common confusion regarding Govt specs. In Canada they > just give performance requirements NOT what material meets those specs. > So you could use toast or fried eggs as long as it meets specs !!! Copper > lines as sold now do not - but if the currently available lines were made > stronger (thicker!) they could pass! From Editorgary at aol.com Sun Sep 12 23:01:22 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 01:01:22 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes Message-ID: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> In a message dated 9/12/10 2:33:33 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > Bill, > > That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine and > filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter > changes > a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear > resulting in rebuild work. > > Rich > It's so much fun to know that the old chestnuts never die, new owners come along every year to ask them again. Makes us oldsters feel wanted. Interestingly, it always takes us the same amount of time to work up to the right complete answer. On an older car, if you drive the car regularly, Rich is right. Change the oil every 3,000 miles. However, If you're like many of us, and the car can go many months with little use in an off year with other things going on in our lives, then the oil and filter should be changed annually, at the end of the regular driving season, regardless of how many miles you've driven since the last oil change. I can give you at least four good reasons: First, you should always give your car a once-over every year, anyhow. Second, as Rich notes, it's cheap insurance to keep the car drivable. Third, if a car is going to sit for some period of time before being driven again, it's best that the oil be fresh and clean. Fourth, with the uncertainties of life, you never know when you put the car away how long it will sit once you've put it away, or whether you will ever take it out again. Fresh oil means that there won't be any impurities in the oil to add to the problems that will have to be dealt with when the car is driven again. Let's see, that should take care of this topic until fall 2012. Unless someone wants to argue this point unnecessarily. Gary From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Sep 12 23:09:01 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:09:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> References: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> Message-ID: Good advice, but what oil should I use ') On Sep 12, 2010 10:01 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 9/12/10 2:33:33 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> >> Bill, >> >> That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine and >> filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter >> changes >> a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear >> resulting in rebuild work. >> >> Rich >> > > It's so much fun to know that the old chestnuts never die, new owners come > along every year to ask them again. Makes us oldsters feel wanted. > Interestingly, it always takes us the same amount of time to work up to the right > complete answer. > > On an older car, if you drive the car regularly, Rich is right. Change > the oil every 3,000 miles. > > However, If you're like many of us, and the car can go many months with > little use in an off year with other things going on in our lives, then the oil > and filter should be changed annually, at the end of the regular driving > season, regardless of how many miles you've driven since the last oil change. > > I can give you at least four good reasons: First, you should always give > your car a once-over every year, anyhow. Second, as Rich notes, it's cheap > insurance to keep the car drivable. Third, if a car is going to sit for some > period of time before being driven again, it's best that the oil be fresh and > clean. Fourth, with the uncertainties of life, you never know when you put > the car away how long it will sit once you've put it away, or whether you > will ever take it out again. Fresh oil means that there won't be any impurities > in the oil to add to the problems that will have to be dealt with when the > car is driven again. > > Let's see, that should take care of this topic until fall 2012. Unless > someone wants to argue this point unnecessarily. > > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 13 02:10:18 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:10:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> Message-ID: <4C8DDC6A.4080400@chello.nl> There seems to be some confusion about copper pipe used for brake lines. Copper (100%) tube is and has been used for brake lines. This can be a dangerous practice as copper hardens when deformed making it brittle and prone to cracking. This deforming takes place continuously when braking, as the pipe will expand and contract a bit every time you brake. If you use Cunifer, a copper alloy, there is no problem and this type of brake line has been around and used successfully for many years and several manufacturers use it as standard equipment. Copper can be recognized by its reddish color and its softness, cunifer is pale yellowish/white and much tougher. Copper coated steel brake lines (if they exist, I never came across them) are not a good idea because of electrolytic corrosion, the steel is sacrificed first and can fail after a fairly short time in wet and/or salty conditions. Zinc or cadmium plated lines are fine and used throughout the industry. The steel only corrodes if the zinc or cadmium has been sacrificed first and that only happens after many years. Stainless steel can be used as well but also has some issues. It is hard to get in the right (aircraft) quality, it is hard to bend and it is difficult to make the required double flanges. A lot of people make single flanges, and although this works OK generally, it is illegal in many countries. These single flanges can be prone to fatigue cracking if not executed properly. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 13 04:54:22 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 06:54:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes References: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> Message-ID: <000801cb5332$066e6740$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Yes, that was actually the original question. Bulk oil vs bottle oil costs. I guess they were expanding on the original chestnut. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 1:09 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes > Good advice, but what oil should I use ') > > On Sep 12, 2010 10:01 PM, wrote: >> In a message dated 9/12/10 2:33:33 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net >> writes: >> >> >>> >>> Bill, >>> >>> That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine > and >>> filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter >>> changes >>> a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear >>> resulting in rebuild work. >>> >>> Rich >>> >> >> It's so much fun to know that the old chestnuts never die, new owners >> come > >> along every year to ask them again. Makes us oldsters feel wanted. >> Interestingly, it always takes us the same amount of time to work up to > the right >> complete answer. >> >> On an older car, if you drive the car regularly, Rich is right. Change >> the oil every 3,000 miles. >> >> However, If you're like many of us, and the car can go many months with >> little use in an off year with other things going on in our lives, then > the oil >> and filter should be changed annually, at the end of the regular driving >> season, regardless of how many miles you've driven since the last oil > change. >> >> I can give you at least four good reasons: First, you should always give >> your car a once-over every year, anyhow. Second, as Rich notes, it's >> cheap > >> insurance to keep the car drivable. Third, if a car is going to sit for > some >> period of time before being driven again, it's best that the oil be fresh > and >> clean. Fourth, with the uncertainties of life, you never know when you >> put > >> the car away how long it will sit once you've put it away, or whether you >> will ever take it out again. Fresh oil means that there won't be any > impurities >> in the oil to add to the problems that will have to be dealt with when >> the > >> car is driven again. >> >> Let's see, that should take care of this topic until fall 2012. Unless >> someone wants to argue this point unnecessarily. >> >> Gary >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 05:03:03 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:03:03 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: References: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> Message-ID: Erbs Bulk oil should be just fine, as long as you add some ZDDP. The main thing with oil is that you change it with some regularity. Since bulk oil won't have sufficient ZDDP levels in it, you have to compensate for that. At the end of the day, oil is oil. I don't think any particular brand, honestly, is any better than another as long as the weights are correct for your car and you change it regularly. As long as you are driving your car regularly, any oil will work. I think when your car sits a long time there might be some value to getting synthetics, but if you drive all the time, your car won't care. Coolant, on the other hand, is more important, esp from a corrosion protection perspective. Best, Alan On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 1:09 PM, I Erbs wrote: > Good advice, but what oil should I use ') > > On Sep 12, 2010 10:01 PM, wrote: >> In a message dated 9/12/10 2:33:33 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net >> writes: >> >> >>> >>> Bill, >>> >>> That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine > and >>> filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter >>> changes >>> a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear >>> resulting in rebuild work. >>> >>> Rich From Editorgary at aol.com Mon Sep 13 05:30:52 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 07:30:52 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes Message-ID: In a message dated 9/13/10 4:03:05 AM, healey.nut at gmail.com writes: > Bulk oil should be just fine, as long as you add some ZDDP. The main > thing with oil is that you change it with some regularity. Since bulk > oil won't have sufficient ZDDP levels in it, you have to compensate > for that. > > At the end of the day, oil is oil. I don't think any particular > brand, honestly, is any better than another as long as the weights are > correct for your car and you change it regularly. > Any regular oil in 10W40 or 15W50 grade will be fine. Preferences usually run to Valvoline VR1 "racing oil" or Castrol (has two different types in those viscosities, both of which would be fine) both of which were on the shelves at my middle-of-the-road auto supply store. The critical thing is the weight. Not only do you need the heavier weight, but since newer cars can't use that weight, the oil companies can continue to sell oil in those weights with sufficient ZDDP in it to take care of our old-technology engines. Bulk oil is probably all right, provided it is high-viscosity -- 10-40 or 15-50. However, the amount of money you would save per year, relative to the cost of an engine rebuild doesn't seem to justify any uncertainty. CAUTION: this doesn't apply to the first start-up and the first 500 miles on a newly-rebuilt engine with a new cam. For these purposes your engine builder should be using a high-ZDDP break-in oil in conjunction with molybdenum assembly grease. Gary From bluehealey at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 05:38:35 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:38:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ Message-ID: Team. Longer term contributors to this list will possibly be a little jaded by the cyclic reworking of the oil debate over the last few years. The basic query appears to arise from the concern that 'modern' oil may only be suitable for modern engines, and therefore not suitable for our older technologies. The discussions and debates often became deeply technical and wandered off into discussions about various additional additives that could supplement the modern cocktail available from the big names out there. I learned, from the feedback on this list, that the levels of ZDDP additive in motor oil has been reducing over the years as it is detrimental to catalytic converters. Unfortunately this reduction is in turn detrimental to the life of camshafts that use flat face followers (tappets) - that's us!! The latest API Service Standard designation is SM for gasoline automobile and light-truck engines. The SM standard refers to a group of laboratory and engine tests, including the latest series for control of high-temperature deposits. Current API service categories include SM, SL and SJ for gasoline engines. All previous service designations are obsolete, although motorcycle oils commonly still use the SF/SG standard. The API Service Standard is an alphabetic progression, starting at SA and currently at SM. In the SG standard, ZDDP at 1200-1300ppm was incorporated. From SG and beyond this density has been steadily reduced until today where SM has just 600ppm. My simple rule of thumb therefore is to use whatever motor oil is available that has an API no later than SG and change it every year. No matter what the marketing guys might say if the container says API SM don't use it. That should spark up some input - %^) -- _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From ahy3000 at comcast.net Mon Sep 13 05:42:11 2010 From: ahy3000 at comcast.net (ahy3000 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 11:42:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <815646367.1376400.1284378131376.JavaMail.root@sz0043a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Found this site very helpful.. http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm Burt Weiner '63 BJ7 HBJ7L/23582 ahy3000 at comcast.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Edwards" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 8:01:50 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Hello Listers; I can't get my fuel gage to work. If I put 12 volts on it it goes right to full. When I ground the Tank terminal it stays at full and I believe that it should go to empty. The car has been changed to negative ground but I don't believe that I've ever seen anything about that effecting the fuel gage. The sending unit is new but I know that doesn't mean that it's good. The car has been sitting for 20+ years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for your help. Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com 1962 BJ7 1969 Midget 1961 Bugeye From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Sep 13 06:59:13 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 06:59:13 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> References: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> Message-ID: <4A97340E812345B3828EE66F3F744EF4@oscar> Not necessarily unnecessarily but, if you must have you car smog tested, oil will in fairly short order "blend" with hydrocarbons and other by products of combustion and heat and contaminants. So all of that stuff is continually re-circulated and adds to the tailpipe readings. So, "fresher" oil will get a sometimes marginal car through a smog test and will enhance the life of bearings and friction surfaces. Since Healeys are most exempt from testing, never mind. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- It's so much fun to know that the old chestnuts never die, new owners come along every year to ask them again. Makes us oldsters feel wanted. Interestingly, it always takes us the same amount of time to work up to the right complete answer. Let's see, that should take care of this topic until fall 2012. Unless someone wants to argue this point unnecessarily. Gary _______________________________________________ From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Sep 13 07:10:26 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 07:10:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: References: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> Message-ID: <2FBE4B91DA854952A71EC1C471A0CEF9@oscar> Come on.. Bulk oil is the same oil as what's in a quart can.. only its purchased in larger (55gal and up) quantities. Less packaging= lower costs to everyone. Quick change lube shops should have a sign on the delivery reels indicating what you're getting. If it's with the oil experts on this list, then use it by all means.. As with today's politicians, I'm so confused about what is right, I ask my customers to bring their own oil.. :>) Me? I still use Castrol 20-50 in the crankcase. dp frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 13 08:34:03 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:34:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: References: <216c4.7096617a.39bf0a22@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C8E365B.4000208@chello.nl> Use 20W50 or 15W50 (the 50 is the important bit). Any brand will do but if you have added some serious power to the engine, which is causing the oil to get hotter, use Valvoline Racing, Duckhams etc, as some other brands may thin out a bit to much when hot. I always have this problem with Castrol Classic 20W50 which thins out much more than the Duckhams I used before, but the latter is hard to get these days. When driving prolonged stretches over 80mph the oil pressure drops when using the Castrol. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 08:57:26 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 07:57:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Peking to Paris 2010 Message-ID: <437694.50614.qm@web83907.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Not quite Healey related, none entered but the exploits of this Rally are too goodB not to read. http://www.pekingparis.com/reports.shtml An excerpt from the Day 3 Report: "One of the most extraordinary stories to emerge was the effort of the Australians in the big Austin Sheerline. This car runs a four-litre version of the Austin Healey engine, originally designed for trucks and combine harvesters, and it ran its big end bearings yesterday. A workshop was found, and the bottom end of the engine stripped apart, to reveal a badly scored crankshaft, and wrecked shell-bearings. These were shimmed up and put back on with the crank having received much filing and polish with emery paper. To fill the gap b shims were made on the spot. One big-end was made out of cutting a strip out the side of a Sprite Lemonade can, and another was shimmed using the wafer thin aluminium from a cigarette packet. With this handywork, the engine was put back together and it drove into Mongolia under its own power this morning. Norman Brice and Colin Ryan deserve medals for this initiative of ace fettling. Emjoy the read, the Rally ends October 16th in Paris having started in Peking on September 10th. Bob From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Sep 13 09:16:12 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 08:16:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: hand break Message-ID: Richard: Make sure the emergency brake pivot, the pivot which is located near the rear end and that divides emergency brake cable action to the left and right side - is l-u-b-e-d. It has a grease fitting and it must move freely. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Kahn To: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 8:22 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break Thanks. I already have got the bushings and rubber trany mounts . I was waiting for winter but now is opportune. > From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:06:01 -0400 > > Rich, I installed a new cable not too long ago, going in through the > trany cover made the job pretty > straight forward. While your at it you can clean up, derust, paint that > area that is usually hidden away. > Good job for the off driving season. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Kahn" > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:00 PM > Subject: [Healeys] hand break > > > > Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a > > big > > job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the > > input. > > Rich Kahn From shop at justbrits.com Mon Sep 13 09:37:35 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:37:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8E453F.60708@justbrits.com> << _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) >> Tsk, tsk Alan !!! << >> You for got to take it 'off', Alan !!! From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Sep 13 09:39:01 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 11:39:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008201cb5359$ca414120$5ec3c360$@rr.com> Hi, Frank - The gauge operates by sensing resistance in the circuit between the wire to the gauge T terminal and ground. When the tank is full, there is more resistance than when the tank is empty. For a BJ8 (and I would assume also for a BJ7), a full tank should give a reading of around 90 ohms when measured between the green/black wire that connects to the T terminal, and ground. When the tank is empty, the resistance should be close to zero. These measurements check the operation of the sending unit. The best way to check the gauge itself is to remove it from the car. Connect a 12V source to the B terminal and the negative post of the source to the central mounting post of the gauge. This should make the gauge read FULL. Then connect a wire between the central mounting post and the T terminal. This should make the gauge read EMPTY. To check the gauge calibration, make up a couple wires with 90 ohm resistors in them and connect them to the central mounting post. When the end of a wire with 90 ohms resistance is connected to the T terminal, the gauge should read FULL. When the ends of BOTH wires are touched to the T terminal together, the sensed resistance is 1/2 of 90, or 45 ohms. This should make the gauge read approximately 1/2. Negative or positive ground does not affect the gauge operation. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Edwards Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 8:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Hello Listers; I can't get my fuel gage to work. If I put 12 volts on it it goes right to full. When I ground the Tank terminal it stays at full and I believe that it should go to empty. The car has been changed to negative ground but I don't believe that I've ever seen anything about that effecting the fuel gage. The sending unit is new but I know that doesn't mean that it's good. The car has been sitting for 20+ years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for your help. Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com 1962 BJ7 1969 Midget 1961 Bugeye _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3129 - Release Date: 09/12/10 14:34:00 From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Sep 13 09:44:43 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 08:44:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: BJ7 Fuel gage. Message-ID: How does the fuel gauge alteration work - the one that dampens fuel gauge movement ? Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: BJ8 Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 8:39 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Hi, Frank - The gauge operates by sensing resistance in the circuit between the wire to the gauge T terminal and ground. When the tank is full, there is more resistance than when the tank is empty. For a BJ8 (and I would assume also for a BJ7), a full tank should give a reading of around 90 ohms when measured between the green/black wire that connects to the T terminal, and ground. When the tank is empty, the resistance should be close to zero. These measurements check the operation of the sending unit. The best way to check the gauge itself is to remove it from the car. Connect a 12V source to the B terminal and the negative post of the source to the central mounting post of the gauge. This should make the gauge read FULL. Then connect a wire between the central mounting post and the T terminal. This should make the gauge read EMPTY. To check the gauge calibration, make up a couple wires with 90 ohm resistors in them and connect them to the central mounting post. When the end of a wire with 90 ohms resistance is connected to the T terminal, the gauge should read FULL. When the ends of BOTH wires are touched to the T terminal together, the sensed resistance is 1/2 of 90, or 45 ohms. This should make the gauge read approximately 1/2. Negative or positive ground does not affect the gauge operation. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Edwards Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 8:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Hello Listers; I can't get my fuel gage to work. If I put 12 volts on it it goes right to full. When I ground the Tank terminal it stays at full and I believe that it should go to empty. The car has been changed to negative ground but I don't believe that I've ever seen anything about that effecting the fuel gage. The sending unit is new but I know that doesn't mean that it's good. The car has been sitting for 20+ years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for your help. Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com 1962 BJ7 1969 Midget 1961 Bugey From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Sep 13 10:14:12 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:14:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I was thinking if we could put the results of 'what oil?', 'should I add ZDDP?, 'What tires?' etc debates on some web site, like John Sim's, so whenever someone asks about oil, tires, or other common issues we could simply refer to the right web page... Just a humble thought.. :-) Tadek Message: 4 Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:38:35 +0100 From: Alan Bromfield Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ To: Healey Mail List Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Team. From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Sep 13 10:17:51 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 09:17:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: hand break In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks. There are several grease fittings oh the brake system. They must know something about the stress. You'd think with all the oil under the car it would be self lubricating. Rich Kahn > From: medlabinc at msn.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 08:16:12 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Fw: hand break > > Richard: > > Make sure the emergency brake pivot, the pivot which is located near the rear > end and that divides emergency brake cable action to the left and right side - > is l-u-b-e-d. It has a grease fitting and it must move freely. > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Richard Kahn > To: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net ; > healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 8:22 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > > > Thanks. I already have got the bushings and rubber trany mounts . I was > waiting for winter but now is opportune. > > > > > > From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; > healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > > Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:06:01 -0400 > > > > Rich, I installed a new cable not too long ago, going in through the > > trany cover made the job pretty > > straight forward. While your at it you can clean up, derust, paint that > > area that is usually hidden away. > > Good job for the off driving season. > > > > Mark > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Richard Kahn" > > > > To: > > > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:00 PM > > Subject: [Healeys] hand break > > > > > > > Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a > > > big > > > job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the > > > input. > > > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Sep 13 10:46:14 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:46:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <045f01cb5363$2e936370$8bba2a50$@verizon.net> I would be happy to post however, there already are several articles on tires and oil on the Technical page AND, if you ask 10 people on this list, you are sure to get at least 8 different answers. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 12:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ I was thinking if we could put the results of 'what oil?', 'should I add ZDDP?, 'What tires?' etc debates on some web site, like John Sim's, so whenever someone asks about oil, tires, or other common issues we could simply refer to the right web page... Just a humble thought.. :-) Tadek From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Sep 13 10:54:32 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:54:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ In-Reply-To: <045f01cb5363$2e936370$8bba2a50$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <5A5E5A07028C4AC3BD390A21BB845337@tm> Aaaaaa - thank God there is only one Polish bloke here. In Poland there is a saying that if there are 10 Poles there are at least 12 different and contradicting opinions.... :-) -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 6:46 PM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ I would be happy to post however, there already are several articles on tires and oil on the Technical page AND, if you ask 10 people on this list, you are sure to get at least 8 different answers. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 12:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ I was thinking if we could put the results of 'what oil?', 'should I add ZDDP?, 'What tires?' etc debates on some web site, like John Sim's, so whenever someone asks about oil, tires, or other common issues we could simply refer to the right web page... Just a humble thought.. :-) Tadek From rpschauss at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 10:56:30 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:56:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ In-Reply-To: <045f01cb5363$2e936370$8bba2a50$@verizon.net> References: <045f01cb5363$2e936370$8bba2a50$@verizon.net> Message-ID: Another thing to keep in mind is that oil and tires are moving targets. As soon as we find a product that works well on our cars they discontinue it or change the spec. (Remember Dunlop SP-20's?) Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 12:46 PM, John Sims wrote: > I would be happy to post however, there already are several articles on > tires and oil on the Technical page AND, if you ask 10 people on this list, > you are sure to get at least 8 different answers. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com From cbaustin at verizon.net Mon Sep 13 11:21:19 2010 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 13:21:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nice Car! Message-ID: Great shot of you and your car in Nov'10 CM. Congrats, CB From shop at justbrits.com Mon Sep 13 11:33:16 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:33:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ In-Reply-To: <045f01cb5363$2e936370$8bba2a50$@verizon.net> References: <045f01cb5363$2e936370$8bba2a50$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C8E605C.4060103@justbrits.com> << ...if you ask 10 people on this list, you are sure to get at least 8 different answers. >> 12 John, 12 !!!! LOL but true !! From gmandas at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 11:35:13 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:35:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes Message-ID: <834782.64014.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Casterol + ZDDP? Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 13, 2010, at 10:34 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Use 20W50 or 15W50 (the 50 is the important bit). Any brand will do but if you have added some serious power to the engine, which is causing the oil to get hotter, use Valvoline Racing, Duckhams etc, as some other brands may thin out a bit to much when hot. I always have this problem with Castrol Classic 20W50 which thins out much more than the Duckhams I used before, but the latter is hard to get these days. When driving prolonged stretches over 80mph the oil pressure drops when using the Castrol. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 13 13:26:16 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:26:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: <834782.64014.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <834782.64014.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C8E7AD8.1020603@chello.nl> I have the feeling that ZDDP is an American issue. I never heard it even mentioned in Europe let alone a lack of it or a lack of it causing problems. What is a problem is that it is getting more difficult to get 20W50. In most autopart stores it is not available off the shelf anymore. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Sep 13 14:23:34 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:23:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: <4C8E7AD8.1020603@chello.nl> References: <834782.64014.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <4C8E7AD8.1020603@chello.nl> Message-ID: <001801cb5381$8af01eb0$a0d05c10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Tractors seem to use it! Our local farmer's supply depot will sell you as much as you like! By the drum.. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: 13 September 2010 20:26 To: Greg Mandas Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes I have the feeling that ZDDP is an American issue. I never heard it even mentioned in Europe let alone a lack of it or a lack of it causing problems. What is a problem is that it is getting more difficult to get 20W50. In most autopart stores it is not available off the shelf anymore. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 13 14:27:41 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 22:27:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: <001801cb5381$8af01eb0$a0d05c10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <834782.64014.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <4C8E7AD8.1020603@chello.nl> <001801cb5381$8af01eb0$a0d05c10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <4C8E893D.4070104@chello.nl> That's the problem, I have not got room for a drum. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:50:26 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 07:50:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes In-Reply-To: <4C8E7AD8.1020603@chello.nl> References: <834782.64014.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <4C8E7AD8.1020603@chello.nl> Message-ID: I have been using Penrite HPR 40 oil for years. Designed for large capacity, old style 6 cyl high perfomance engines Formulated to API SL. Plenty of ZDDP - i.e. 1760 ppm http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/HPR%2040%20JAN%202010.pdf http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/149%20LATEST%20ZINC%20LEVELS.pdf Chris Sent from my iPhone On 14/09/2010, at 5:26 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > I have the feeling that ZDDP is an American issue. I never heard it > even mentioned in Europe let alone a lack of it or a lack of it > causing > problems. What is a problem is that it is getting more difficult to > get > 20W50. In most autopart stores it is not available off the shelf > anymore. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a > name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From dcongleton at embarqmail.com Mon Sep 13 17:10:56 2010 From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:10:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes References: <834782.64014.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com><4C8E7AD8.1020603@chello.nl> Message-ID: <0C2CA98A6CD145619923312E1BF29E2A@your4dacd0ea75> Chris the webpage for Penrite HPR has the following statement " Penrite HPR meets the requirements of API SL ". This requirement included the reduction of the zinc/phosphate levels in the oil and if they meet the API certification , then it is low enough to satisfy the Feds ( at present- they keep lowering this spec) regarding the contamination of catalytic converters. I see their impressive paragraph about older engines, etc, but the bottom line is that the API spec of SL. The spec sheet show some numbers for zinc, but is like voodoo to try and follow all these different methods of measurement and extrapolate to how much we need and how much is in the oil. "Oil ain't what it used to be" - even the same brand, same label- Dallas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Dimmock" To: "Oudesluys" Cc: ; ; "Greg Mandas" Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 5:50 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes >I have been using Penrite HPR 40 oil for years. > > Designed for large capacity, old style 6 cyl high perfomance engines > Formulated to API SL. Plenty of ZDDP - i.e. 1760 ppm > > http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/HPR%2040%20JAN%202010.pdf > > http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/149%20LATEST%20ZINC%20LEVELS.pdf > > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 14/09/2010, at 5:26 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> I have the feeling that ZDDP is an American issue. I never heard it >> even mentioned in Europe let alone a lack of it or a lack of it causing >> problems. What is a problem is that it is getting more difficult to get >> 20W50. In most autopart stores it is not available off the shelf >> anymore. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a >> name of coudesluijs.vcf] >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dcongleton at embarqmail.com From barrie at look.ca Mon Sep 13 11:46:59 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 13:46:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> Message-ID: I think you will find that the "copper" is "copper alloy" (Kunifer). But if copper, the walls will be thick as Canadian DOT would slam them if they did not meet specs - all you have to do is meet DOT specs - so pure copper is possible. At 12:08 AM 9/13/2010, Richard Ewald wrote: >Volvo has used copper alloy brake lines as OE since the days of the >240 if not before. They do not use a different brake line for >Canada, so obviously copper brake lines do somehow manage to meet >Canadian requirements. >Rick > >On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 8:11 AM, Barrie Robinson ><barrie at look.ca> wrote: > Kurnifer, a British development - specifically for brake lines, is > 90% copper and 10% nickel. It is used extensively in high > performance cars. In my opinion it is the only way to go - and is > easily obtained. But in N. America it was slow to catch on just > like seat belts, radial tyres and such (NIH syndrome). Currently > available copper brake lines do not meet the Canadian govt. > specifications and I doubt they meet USA or European specs. By the > way, there is common confusion regarding Govt specs. In Canada > they just give performance requirements NOT what material meets > those specs. So you could use toast or fried eggs as long as it > meets specs !!! Copper lines as sold now do not - but if the > currently available lines were made stronger (thicker!) they could pass! > > Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From barrie at look.ca Mon Sep 13 12:20:12 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:20:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: <4C8DDC6A.4080400@chello.nl> References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> <4C8DDC6A.4080400@chello.nl> Message-ID: Is it Cunifer or Kurnifer? At 04:10 AM 9/13/2010, Oudesluys wrote: > There seems to be some confusion about copper pipe used for brake lines. >Copper (100%) tube is and has been used for brake lines. This can be >a dangerous practice as copper hardens when deformed making it >brittle and prone to cracking. This deforming takes place >continuously when braking, as the pipe will expand and contract a >bit every time you brake. >If you use Cunifer, a copper alloy, there is no problem and this >type of brake line has been around and used successfully for many >years and several manufacturers use it as standard equipment. >Copper can be recognized by its reddish color and its softness, >cunifer is pale yellowish/white and much tougher. >Copper coated steel brake lines (if they exist, I never came across >them) are not a good idea because of electrolytic corrosion, the >steel is sacrificed first and can fail after a fairly short time in >wet and/or salty conditions. Zinc or cadmium plated lines are fine >and used throughout the industry. The steel only corrodes if the >zinc or cadmium has been sacrificed first and that only happens >after many years. >Stainless steel can be used as well but also has some issues. It is >hard to get in the right (aircraft) quality, it is hard to bend and >it is difficult to make the required double flanges. A lot of people >make single flanges, and although this works OK generally, it is >illegal in many countries. These single flanges can be prone to >fatigue cracking if not executed properly. >Kees Oudesluijs >NL > > Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 13 17:39:28 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:39:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs, Final References: <000801cb5214$dd9d53d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <001d01cb539c$e8c59ea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Just got to grin. Seems that most of us cringe when a topic is sooooo over done. Thats why my original question was about my everyday car. A Chrysler mini van. Zddp and 20/50? I don't think I will be doing that any time soon. )))))) Who changed the subject? ))))) OK, lets send it back to the Healeys. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 8:53 PM Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs > Who knows what the quality of the bulk oil at the Quickie lubes is? I > found > out that I was paying > $10.00 more for each oil change in my every day car when I had bottled > Castrol > put in instead > of the bulk oil. > > Does anyone know if the quality of the bulk oil is inferior or could it be > the > bottle cost and the > name brand makes the big difference? > > I would think that most oils today should last 3000 to 5000 miles between > changes, bulk > oil or not. > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 18:10:04 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 17:10:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs, Final In-Reply-To: <001d01cb539c$e8c59ea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000801cb5214$dd9d53d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <001d01cb539c$e8c59ea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Mark, To answer your original question. Bulk oil is not necessarily inferior. However companies like Iffy Lube put their contract out to bid, and without a doubt buy the cheapest oil they can lay their hands on. Same with oil filters. If, and I do mean If they are using exactly the same brand, weight, and quality grade their will be no difference between what you buy at the local store, and what they are pumping. The difference is you are buying retail in 1 quart bottles, they are buying 10,000 gallons a time. Difference of scale. This assumes of course that what they say they are pumping is actually what they in fact put in your car. Rick On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 4:39 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > Just got to grin. Seems that most of us cringe when a topic is sooooo > over done. Thats why my original > question was about my everyday car. A Chrysler mini van. Zddp and 20/50? > I don't think I will be doing > that any time soon. )))))) > > Who changed the subject? ))))) > > OK, lets send it back to the Healeys. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" < > lapierrem at sbcglobal.net> > To: > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 8:53 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs > > > Who knows what the quality of the bulk oil at the Quickie lubes is? I >> found >> out that I was paying >> $10.00 more for each oil change in my every day car when I had bottled >> Castrol >> put in instead >> of the bulk oil. >> >> Does anyone know if the quality of the bulk oil is inferior or could it be >> the >> bottle cost and the >> name brand makes the big difference? >> >> I would think that most oils today should last 3000 to 5000 miles between >> changes, bulk >> oil or not. >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 19:52:39 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey]) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:52:39 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Oil Changes In-Reply-To: References: <834782.64014.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <4C8E7AD8.1020603@chello.nl> <0C2CA98A6CD145619923312E1BF29E2A@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: Hi Dallas In the 2nd link, http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/149%20LATEST%20ZINC%20LEVELS.pdfPenrite talk about 'designing oil for purpose'. *"Remember the zinc maximum (actually phosphorus)* for API SM (ILSAC GF-4) *products only applies to SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 viscosity grades*. *Other SAE grades do not need to comply*. Incidentally, ILSAC GF-5, due in a couple of years will drop phosphorus maximums to 700ppm (or about 770ppm of zinc from ZDDP)." That's probably why their HPR is in those 'unusual' grades (whereas their "modern engine oils" are 5W-30 etc) and probably why they say - at the bottom of the first page I linked to "Penrite HPR 40 meets the *performance*requirements of:API SL" Penrite HPR30 (20W-60 with Zinc 1580 ppm); HPR 40 (25W-70 with Zinc 1760 ppm); and HPR 50 (40 - 70 with Zinc 1760 ppm) are the oil of choice of many 1960's Healey/ Jaguar racers in Australia. Of course other people run other oils - but what I've seen is most run HPR. They explain it in more detail here in their August 2010 update: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/images/PENR0138_Penrite_Zinc%20Tech%20Bulletin.pdfin their Personally - I did consider changing to a synthetic engine oil, after the black & white car had run in over 20 competition events, and done a few thousand road miles. Pete Molloy came over and we put the car up in the air, and pulled the sump. http://www.myaustinhealey.com/mechanical_restoration.html We did this because several guys had sheared off cam/ oil pump drives; had premature tappet failure etc. I'd been using Penrite HPR50 on the track, and HPR40 on the road. Pete was pretty impressed with the condition of everything - his comment was - why would you even think about changing the oil brand/type??? No commercial interest in Penrite. Best Chris On Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 9:10 AM, Dallas Congleton wrote: > Chris the webpage for Penrite HPR has the following statement " Penrite > HPR meets the requirements of API SL ". This requirement included the > reduction of the zinc/phosphate levels in the oil and if they meet the API > certification , then it is low enough to satisfy the Feds ( at present- they > keep lowering this spec) regarding the contamination of catalytic > converters. I see their impressive paragraph about older engines, etc, but > the bottom line is that the API spec of SL. > The spec sheet show some numbers for zinc, but is like voodoo to try and > follow all these different methods of measurement and extrapolate to how > much we need and how much is in the oil. > > "Oil ain't what it used to be" - even the same brand, same label- > > Dallas From jstmorris at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 20:09:46 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:09:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tech List Message-ID: <981908.61202.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Tadek; Here is one sample of what you suggest. It was developed by Frangois Wild and dates from about 2002. As a result, many of the links may be of little use and some of the information dated. He still has a version posted on his current website at http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/ . If it was posted on any other website, like John Sims, I suggest Frangois Wild permission be obtained. As far as I can determine, his current email is Francois.wild at unige.ch --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; 60 MkI BN7 & 62 BT7 MkII J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Mon, 9/13/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: << I was thinking if we could put the results of 'what oil?', 'should I add ZDDP?, 'What tires?' etc debates on some web site, like John Sim's, so whenever someone asks about oil, tires, or other common issues we could simply refer to the right web page... Just a humble thought.. :-) Tadek >> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Tech] From gmandas at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 20:15:54 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:15:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Changes Message-ID: <414738.7522.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Really!? I'm just trying to verify I'm doing the right thing. Between marketing ("buy more ZDDP") and other sources and messages I'm a bit confused. I'm using valvoline racing 20w50. I'm told it's ZDDP content is adequate and hoping it's right. I don't have the funds to experiment and pay to undo any mistakes. As an interesting side note regarding modern engines and friction reduction, my daughter drives a Honda Civic Hybrid which runs on 0w20 (zeroW20). Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 13, 2010, at 3:26 PM, Oudesluys wrote: I have the feeling that ZDDP is an American issue. I never heard it even mentioned in Europe let alone a lack of it or a lack of it causing problems. What is a problem is that it is getting more difficult to get 20W50. In most autopart stores it is not available off the shelf anymore. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From ahpowered at hotmail.com Mon Sep 13 20:43:06 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:43:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 Message-ID: Well, Last year I pulled my tranny when the car ran perfect. Lots o delays, lack of time, etc. Everything is back together, new points, plugs (replaced tonight), etc. I also swapped out the fuel pump to the exact same Facet I just put on my MGA 3 months ago which is running perfectly. My Healey will not start and if I crank it over for about 15 seconds (or less?)the carbs flood out the overflows. The floats seem to be floating. Should the carbs overflow? I have ball needle jets and they never gave me problems before. I have spark at the plugs. Big hmmm... Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 13 20:48:23 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:48:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A-arm pin Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100913194716.01ff3460@pop.att.yahoo.com> What is the finish on the flucrum pins where the upper A-arm is attached to the frame. It appears to be nickle and not zinc. Thank you, John Spaur From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 21:01:42 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:01:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott - Grose Jets / ball jets don't work if you have crud in the tank. I suspect you have some rust floating around and it has clogged up your ball valves causing them to stick open. I'd suggest taking the tank out and thoroughly cleaning it. A failing fuel pump is not far behind. Alan On Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 10:43 AM, scott willis wrote: > Well, > Last year I pulled my tranny when the car ran perfect. Lots o delays, lack of > time, etc. Everything is back together, new points, plugs (replaced tonight), > etc. I also swapped out the fuel pump to the exact same Facet I just put on my > MGA 3 months ago which is running perfectly. > > My Healey will not start and if I crank it over for about 15 seconds (or > less?)the carbs flood out the overflows. The floats seem to be floating. > Should the carbs overflow? I have ball needle jets and they never gave me > problems before. I have spark at the plugs. > > Big hmmm... > > Cheers, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 13 21:06:01 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:06:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8EE699.4070802@comcast.net> On a similar note, our BN2's front carb leaks. It has new, brass-tipped needle valves--anybody having trouble with these as well (the tank and fuel lines are new/cleaned)? bs On 9/13/2010 8:01 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Scott - > > Grose Jets / ball jets don't work if you have crud in the tank. I > suspect you have some rust floating around and it has clogged up your > ball valves causing them to stick open. > > I'd suggest taking the tank out and thoroughly cleaning it. A failing > fuel pump is not far behind. > > Alan -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 21:23:57 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:23:57 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 In-Reply-To: <4C8EE699.4070802@comcast.net> References: <4C8EE699.4070802@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - My experience is the rubber ones seal better, but then don't last more than 5-ish years then start leaking. The brass ones will last longer, but if they aren't made correctly they will leak. The Grose jets work best, provided fuel is clean. You might be having a problem with too much fuel pressure with the brass jets - what type of fuel pump are you using? Alan On Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 11:06 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > On a similar note, our BN2's front carb leaks. It has new, brass-tipped > needle valves--anybody having trouble with these as well (the tank and fuel > lines are new/cleaned)? > > > bs From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 13 21:50:32 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:50:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 In-Reply-To: References: <4C8EE699.4070802@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C8EF108.9080608@comcast.net> Electronic SU--same as 'stock,' but Hall Effect electronic switch instead of points. Should be correct pressure, since it's determined by the strength of the spring, and that shouldn't be different than for the points-type. bs On 9/13/2010 8:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Bob - > > My experience is the rubber ones seal better, but then don't last more > than 5-ish years then start leaking. The brass ones will last longer, > but if they aren't made correctly they will leak. The Grose jets work > best, provided fuel is clean. > > You might be having a problem with too much fuel pressure with the > brass jets - what type of fuel pump are you using? > > Alan > > On Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 11:06 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> On a similar note, our BN2's front carb leaks. It has new, brass-tipped >> needle valves--anybody having trouble with these as well (the tank and fuel >> lines are new/cleaned)? >> >> >> bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 21:55:53 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:55:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 In-Reply-To: <4C8EF108.9080608@comcast.net> References: <4C8EE699.4070802@comcast.net> <4C8EF108.9080608@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - Replace the jets then... after you make sure the floats don't have a leak! Many new jets don't work properly ... :( Cheers, Alan On 9/14/10, Bob Spidell wrote: > Electronic SU--same as 'stock,' but Hall Effect electronic switch instead > of points. Should be correct pressure, > since it's determined by the strength of the spring, and that shouldn't be > different than for the points-type. > > > bs > > > On 9/13/2010 8:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: >> Bob - >> >> My experience is the rubber ones seal better, but then don't last more >> than 5-ish years then start leaking. The brass ones will last longer, >> but if they aren't made correctly they will leak. The Grose jets work >> best, provided fuel is clean. >> >> You might be having a problem with too much fuel pressure with the >> brass jets - what type of fuel pump are you using? >> >> Alan >> >> On Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 11:06 AM, Bob Spidell >> wrote: >>> On a similar note, our BN2's front carb leaks. It has new, >>> brass-tipped >>> needle valves--anybody having trouble with these as well (the tank and >>> fuel >>> lines are new/cleaned)? >>> >>> >>> bs > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > > -- Sent from my mobile device From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Sep 13 21:56:14 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 22:56:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 In-Reply-To: References: <4C8EE699.4070802@comcast.net> Message-ID: I had similar problems when I used a Facet low pressure pump in my Healey, I rebult the SU and all was well, I kept the newer pump as a spare. Greg Lemon From Editorgary at aol.com Mon Sep 13 22:28:05 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 00:28:05 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 641 Message-ID: <90716.218a9080.39c053d5@aol.com> In a message dated 9/13/10 7:11:04 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > Just got to grin. Seems that most of us cringe when a topic is sooooo > over > done. Thats why my original > question was about my everyday car. A Chrysler mini van. Zddp and > 20/50? > I don't think I will be doing > that any time soon. )))))) > > Who changed the subject? ))))) > Who changed the topic of this website to Chrysler Minivans? For those, you can use whatever comes out of the tap at your local Jiffy Lube. It's going to be using 0-40 or something like that, and with synthetic can go 10-15,000 miles without change, depending on how you drive it -- less if all you do is run around town doing errands, more if you drive long distances. Bottom line, just change it once a year. Gary From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Sep 13 23:35:50 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 05:35:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?door_problem?= Message-ID: <20100914053550.13881.qmail@server278.com> rebuilt my door hinges recently on the bj8 and now have a problem with one door not shutting properly. driver side door has to be shut by putting it a certain distance(approx 9 inches) then pulling it closed gently but not too gently or it will bounce back to the first detent. sometimes it takes multiple attempts at various distances and speed. have tried all different positions of the striker plate, but no luck. pax door works fine. the door latch bushing does seem to have a little play, but it was no problem before i redid the hinges. any ideas? hjim From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Sep 14 00:14:30 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 14:14:30 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] door problem In-Reply-To: <20100914053550.13881.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100914053550.13881.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Did you move the door hinge plates out on the A pillar? Have you put on new door seals? I'd check there first. On 9/14/10, healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: > rebuilt my door hinges recently on the bj8 and now have a problem with one > door not shutting properly. driver side door has to be shut by putting it a > certain distance(approx 9 inches) then pulling it closed gently but not too > gently or it will bounce back to the first detent. sometimes it takes > multiple attempts at various distances and speed. have tried all different > positions of the striker plate, but no luck. pax door works fine. the door > latch bushing does seem to have a little play, but it was no problem before > i redid the hinges. any ideas? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Sep 14 02:57:47 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 10:57:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1D3584A374333A1E0B1242FFFC613@LIFEBOOK> <2D197ECADEB849FA989ECDB106AAB425@tm> <30dl86puv2cj20l0hq9m847bp05chjii6t@4ax.com> <4C8DDC6A.4080400@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C8F390B.5090302@chello.nl> The name is cunifer, it is a copper (Cu) / nickel (Ni) / iron (Fe) alloy. I believe it is about 88% copper, 10% nickel, 1,5% iron and the rest are very small amounts of various other metals like mangane, lead , zinc etc. It is highly resistant against sea water and thus also salted roads. It is used extensively on ships and excellent material for brake lines. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From don at anglesey.us Tue Sep 14 08:52:03 2010 From: don at anglesey.us (Don) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 08:52:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: FWIW, I have used the Facet successfully for years with no carb overflow problems. I have replaced two over those years and they usually just stop pumping fuel. I have also used a Carter which puts out a bit more pressure with no bad results on my HD6's as well. I think the previous poster's got it right. Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Lemon Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 9:56 PM To: Alan Seigrist; Bob Spidell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 I had similar problems when I used a Facet low pressure pump in my Healey, I rebult the SU and all was well, I kept the newer pump as a spare. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Sep 14 09:06:59 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 08:06:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale In-Reply-To: <20100912203905.0C17L.19953.root@cdptpa-web25-z02> References: <4C8D224D.50706@justbrits.com> <20100912203905.0C17L.19953.root@cdptpa-web25-z02> Message-ID: On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 1:39 PM, wrote: > > Do the Concours judges pull the headlights to check these? :) > > Greg Lemon > > Greg, Are you kidding... .of course we make you pull the headlamp buckets to check these during a Concours judging. As such you should get BIG bucks for these :-^) BTW, we have also developed a device that will check to see if you have the original British air from the period in your tyres. Big deduction if we find you use 2010 U.S., or worst yet Canadian air. Cheers, Curt From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Tue Sep 14 09:09:54 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:09:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Good article on oils Message-ID: http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/Oil%20for%20Vintage%20Cars.p df From warthodson at aol.com Tue Sep 14 09:26:28 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:26:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale In-Reply-To: References: <4C8D224D.50706@justbrits.com><20100912203905.0C17L.19953.root@cdptpa-web25-z02> Message-ID: <8CD22385590C8D2-C8C-799@webmail-m012.sysops.aol.com> You must be kidding. Canadian air is much closer to original than USA air! FYI, I have a small stock of NOS air if any one is interested. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Curt/Nancy Arndt To: glemon at neb.rr.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 10:06 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 1:39 PM, wrote: > Do the Concours judges pull the headlights to check these? :) Greg Lemon Greg, Are you kidding... .of course we make you pull the headlamp buckets to check hese during a Concours judging. As such you should get BIG bucks for these -^) BTW, we have also developed a device that will check to see if you have the riginal British air from the period in your tyres. Big deduction if we ind you use 2010 U.S., or worst yet Canadian air. Cheers, Curt ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 14 10:05:21 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:05:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] door problem In-Reply-To: <20100914053550.13881.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100914053550.13881.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: If all was fine before the hinges were repaired and the latches are not the problem then I would say that the most likly thing is the repaired hinge is binding. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Sep 13, 2010, at 10:35 PM, wrote: > rebuilt my door hinges recently on the bj8 and now have a problem > with one door not shutting properly. driver side door has to be > shut by putting it a certain distance(approx 9 inches) then pulling > it closed gently but not too gently or it will bounce back to the > first detent. sometimes it takes multiple attempts at various > distances and speed. have tried all different positions of the > striker plate, but no luck. pax door works fine. the door latch > bushing does seem to have a little play, but it was no problem > before i redid the hinges. any ideas? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From dan at warner-associates.com Tue Sep 14 10:44:55 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:44:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] door problem In-Reply-To: <20100914053550.13881.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Jim: Look at the inside weather stripping that hits on the door. If it hits on the door panel to hard it will cause problems with your door shutting. You can bend the metal the weather stripping goes over in a little here and there with a piece of 2X4 and the 1/4 inch or so makes a big difference. Look especially close at the area near your hinges. I will bet this solves your problem. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 12:36 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] door problem rebuilt my door hinges recently on the bj8 and now have a problem with one door not shutting properly. driver side door has to be shut by putting it a certain distance(approx 9 inches) then pulling it closed gently but not too gently or it will bounce back to the first detent. sometimes it takes multiple attempts at various distances and speed. have tried all different positions of the striker plate, but no luck. pax door works fine. the door latch bushing does seem to have a little play, but it was no problem before i redid the hinges. any ideas? hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From amalin at mac.com Tue Sep 14 13:05:49 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:05:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] door problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8D2D8E0F-9E63-4D9D-969C-FB1984240286@mac.com> Double check the tongue for excessive wear. The one on my driver door was worn to the point that it easily disengaged from the striker plate on the B pillar. Al Malin Tricarb On Sep 14, 2010, at 12:44 PM, Dan Stromquist wrote: > > rebuilt my door hinges recently on the bj8 and now have a problem with one > door not shutting properly. driver side door has to be shut by putting it a > certain distance(approx 9 inches) then pulling it closed gently but not too > gently or it will bounce back to the first detent. sometimes it takes > multiple attempts at various distances and speed. have tried all different > positions of the striker plate, but no luck. pax door works fine. the door > latch bushing does seem to have a little play, but it was no problem before > i redid the hinges. any ideas? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com From Editorgary at aol.com Tue Sep 14 14:11:14 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 16:11:14 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air Message-ID: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com> In a message dated 9/14/10 11:07:03 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > You must be kidding. Canadian air is much closer to original than USA > air! > FYI, I have a small stock of NOS air if any one is interested. > Gary Hodson > Is there any way that the judges can differentiate air from French-speaking Canada from that of English-speaking Canada? I'm assuming that in case of slight differences in points, that I would get a small deduction for using English-speaking Canadian air. Gary From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Sep 14 16:08:52 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 18:08:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com> References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com> Message-ID: <20706F0FA845439E91CD582977662934@LIFEBOOK> I can tell the difference but if I told you, you'd have to apply for Canadian citizenship, and they're finally starting to get picky as to who they let in. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 4:11 PM To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Air > In a message dated 9/14/10 11:07:03 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> You must be kidding. Canadian air is much closer to original than USA >> air! >> FYI, I have a small stock of NOS air if any one is interested. >> Gary Hodson >> > Is there any way that the judges can differentiate air from > French-speaking > Canada from that of English-speaking Canada? I'm assuming that in case of > slight differences in points, that I would get a small deduction for using > English-speaking Canadian air. > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From ynotink at msn.com Tue Sep 14 16:33:52 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 22:33:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] austin exile (Texas that is...) Message-ID: Howdy to any of the Texas contingent. I'm in Austin for three weeks of mandatory training (with #554). Are there any Healey or LBC events within reasonable driving distance over the next two weekends? Bill Lawrence From gbrierton at hotmail.com Tue Sep 14 17:10:31 2010 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 19:10:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: <20706F0FA845439E91CD582977662934@LIFEBOOK> References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com> <20706F0FA845439E91CD582977662934@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: lucky for you, old friend! GaryB -------------------------------------------------- From: "Rich C" Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 6:08 PM To: ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Air > I can tell the difference but if I told you, you'd have to apply for > Canadian citizenship, and they're finally starting to get picky as to who > they let in. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: > Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 4:11 PM > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Air > >> In a message dated 9/14/10 11:07:03 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net >> writes: >> >> >>> You must be kidding. Canadian air is much closer to original than USA >>> air! >>> FYI, I have a small stock of NOS air if any one is interested. >>> Gary Hodson >>> >> Is there any way that the judges can differentiate air from >> French-speaking >> Canada from that of English-speaking Canada? I'm assuming that in case of >> slight differences in points, that I would get a small deduction for >> using >> English-speaking Canadian air. >> Gary >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton at hotmail.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Tue Sep 14 17:26:49 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:26:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: <20706F0FA845439E91CD582977662934@LIFEBOOK> References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com>, <20706F0FA845439E91CD582977662934@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: I live right on the Ontario/Quebec border. I'll have to start investigating the difference. Robert > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 18:08:52 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Air > > I can tell the difference but if I told you, you'd have to apply for > Canadian citizenship, and they're finally starting to get picky as to who > they let in. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: > Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 4:11 PM > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Air > > > In a message dated 9/14/10 11:07:03 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > > writes: > > > > > >> You must be kidding. Canadian air is much closer to original than USA > >> air! > >> FYI, I have a small stock of NOS air if any one is interested. > >> Gary Hodson > >> > > Is there any way that the judges can differentiate air from > > French-speaking > > Canada from that of English-speaking Canada? I'm assuming that in case of > > slight differences in points, that I would get a small deduction for using > > English-speaking Canadian air. > > Gary > > _______________________________________________ From shop at justbrits.com Tue Sep 14 18:22:11 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 19:22:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: <20706F0FA845439E91CD582977662934@LIFEBOOK> References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com> <20706F0FA845439E91CD582977662934@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <4C9011B3.6070107@justbrits.com> From shop at justbrits.com Tue Sep 14 18:35:32 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 19:35:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air Message-ID: <4C9014D4.6040707@justbrits.com> << I can tell the difference but if I told you, ...>> And that MUST be gospel because IIRC Rich, you LOST 3 or 4 points with the car you brought to Conclave '88 at Shangri-la, OK right ??? Seems to me I recall chatting with one of the Judges after your car and he mentioned that it would NOT have been that many had you had Canadian Air !?!?!? Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] From robertlarson at att.net Tue Sep 14 21:28:14 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:28:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: <4C903CC7.7050306@att.net> References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com> <4C903CC7.7050306@att.net> Message-ID: <4C903D4E.7020306@att.net> Is one group either English or French speaking known for generating more hot air than the > other? > > If so, maybe the temperature difference might be used to detect which > has been used. > > Bob > > On 9/14/2010 4:11 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: >> In a message dated 9/14/10 11:07:03 AM,healeys-request at autox.team.net >> writes: >> >> >> >>> You must be kidding. Canadian air is much closer to original than USA >>> air! >>> FYI, I have a small stock of NOS air if any one is interested. >>> Gary Hodson >>> >>> >> Is there any way that the judges can differentiate air from French-speaking >> Canada from that of English-speaking Canada? I'm assuming that in case of >> slight differences in points, that I would get a small deduction for using >> English-speaking Canadian air. >> Gary From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Sep 14 21:35:35 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 03:35:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: <4C903D4E.7020306@att.net> References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com>, <4C903CC7.7050306@att.net>, <4C903D4E.7020306@att.net> Message-ID: During the hockey Stanley Cup playoffs, Canadian, English or French speaking can both produce a lot of hot air. Having said that, the English speaking ones cheering for Toronto, have not had the opportunity to produce much of anything as their team have not won a Stanley Cup since 1967. Furthermore, they are the only fans that can get a photo of their team with a Stanly Cup still only available in Black & White, it's been that long.............. Jean Caron > Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:28:14 -0400 > From: robertlarson at att.net > To: robertlarson at att.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Air > > Is one group either English or French speaking known for generating > more hot air than the > > other? > > > > If so, maybe the temperature difference might be used to detect which > > has been used. > > > > Bob > > > > On 9/14/2010 4:11 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: > >> In a message dated 9/14/10 11:07:03 AM,healeys-request at autox.team.net > >> writes: > >> > >> > >> > >>> You must be kidding. Canadian air is much closer to original than USA > >>> air! > >>> FYI, I have a small stock of NOS air if any one is interested. > >>> Gary Hodson > >>> > >>> > >> Is there any way that the judges can differentiate air from French-speaking > >> Canada from that of English-speaking Canada? I'm assuming that in case of > >> slight differences in points, that I would get a small deduction for using > >> English-speaking Canadian air. > >> Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Sep 14 21:45:55 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:45:55 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com> <4C903CC7.7050306@att.net> <4C903D4E.7020306@att.net> Message-ID: All - In response to popular demand, Warwick Air is now available in a tin, for use in your tires for the ultimate Concours restoration. Official documentation (signed by Anders Clausager himself) is provided for extra points with the Concours Committee. We are also fine purveyors of "Holy Land Canned Air," "Egyptian Pyramid Canned Air," and for the enthusiast of the Cosmos, "Canned Space." Best Regards, The Canned Air Company On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 11:35 AM, Jean Caron wrote: > During the hockey Stanley Cup playoffs, Canadian, English or French speaking > can both produce a lot of hot air. Having said that, the English speaking ones > cheering for Toronto, have not had the opportunity to produce much of anything > as their team have not won a Stanley Cup since 1967. Furthermore, they are the > only fans that can get a photo of their team with a Stanly Cup still only > available in Black & White, it's been that long.............. > > > > Jean Caron From shop at justbrits.com Tue Sep 14 22:22:47 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:22:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com> <4C903CC7.7050306@att.net> <4C903D4E.7020306@att.net> Message-ID: <4C904A17.2020606@justbrits.com> << In response to popular demand, Warwick Air is now available in a tin, for use in your tires for the ultimate Concours restoration. Official documentation (signed by Anders Clausager himself) is provided for extra points with the Concours Committee. >> Whilst that is an admirable endevour Alan, as an ex-Judge I would have to say the the 'tin' will also be inspected to ascertain the 'correctness'. Made in Hong Kong AIN'T gonna get it !!! But thank you for thinking of the Concours Restoration folks !! Sincerely......... Anon 'cause I.m LOL !!! From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Sep 15 01:29:13 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 03:29:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cores Revised Message-ID: <8CD22BED468FAD7-1F4C-1E70@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> Listers Need some help. Revisting the thread on cores, I went through the loft and came up with about 75 BN2 through BJ8 rear brake shoes, 30 BN2/100-Six front shoes, 6 BN1 rears and 5 BN1 fronts. That said does anyone know which brake reliners / rebuilders may be interested in buying cores? Called around a bit and didn't find someone that was interested in AH shoes. Next item is water pumps. Found 5 for a 100, 9 for a 100-Six with nut on shaft, and 14 press on six cylinder pumps. Anybody know of a rebuilder that buys/needs cores. I was amazed with all the info on the internet that there isn't much about recycling cores. Going through the generator and starter cores in the next few days. If you need a particular dated case for your restoration let me know .....not to ignite the concours thread again! Aloha Perry From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 07:33:06 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 23:33:06 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... Message-ID: <322E05CB-5908-4785-92F2-CC727E46E8BF@gmail.com> I love that people post questions. I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal experience, and based on research. I love the research that goes into some posts. I love the enthusiasm. I love the commardery. I love the humour. I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, Poland, Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc etc) subtlely remind Americans that it's an international email list. In fun. I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on this list. I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that haven't been built for over 40 something years. After all - cars are cars. But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a friendship, a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps define us as the people we are. Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all you guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just helps keep my sanity!! Sincerely. Chris Sent from my iPhone From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Sep 15 07:43:55 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:43:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <322E05CB-5908-4785-92F2-CC727E46E8BF@gmail.com> References: <322E05CB-5908-4785-92F2-CC727E46E8BF@gmail.com> Message-ID: <004e01cb54dc$0bbb8c90$2332a5b0$@verizon.net> Well said! John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 9:33 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... I love that people post questions. I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal experience, and based on research. I love the research that goes into some posts. I love the enthusiasm. I love the commardery. I love the humour. I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, Poland, Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc etc) subtlely remind Americans that it's an international email list. In fun. I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on this list. I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that haven't been built for over 40 something years. After all - cars are cars. But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a friendship, a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps define us as the people we are. Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all you guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just helps keep my sanity!! Sincerely. Chris From warthodson at aol.com Wed Sep 15 08:13:18 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:13:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] heater valve Message-ID: <8CD22F7479A6176-1544-8416@webmail-m050.sysops.aol.com> I need to know the original thread size for the handle on the heater valve on the block for six cyl. Healeys. Thanks, Gary Hodson From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Sep 15 08:27:27 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:27:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com>, <4C903CC7.7050306@att.net>, , <4C903D4E.7020306@att.net>, Message-ID: I blame the O'Reilly side of my heritage for the winded stories and twisted perceptions.I am a raised in Quebec Anglophone with French, Irish and Finnish ancestry. I don't understand Toronto fans much. They are so loyal to that team. It is apparently one of, if not 'the' most successful NHL franchises financially, despite their performance. Now, you see, I would have thought that regional differences would be more easily detected than the language spoken. There's a lot of farming around and I figured it would be easier to detect if you were smelling the "dairy air". ( French = derrihre ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON CanadaSens fan > From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > > During the hockey Stanley Cup playoffs, Canadian, English or French speaking > can both produce a lot of hot air. Having said that, the English speaking ones > cheering for Toronto, have not had the opportunity to produce much of anything > as their team have not won a Stanley Cup since 1967. Furthermore, they are the > only fans that can get a photo of their team with a Stanly Cup still only > available in Black & White, it's been that long.............. > > Jean Caron > > > Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:28:14 -0400 > > From: robertlarson at att.net > > > > Is one group either English or French speaking known for generating > > more hot air than the > > > other? > > > > > > If so, maybe the temperature difference might be used to detect which > > > has been used. > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > On 9/14/2010 4:11 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: > > >> In a message dated 9/14/10 11:07:03 AM,healeys-request at autox.team.net > > >> writes: > > >> > > >>> You must be kidding. Canadian air is much closer to original than USA > > >>> air! > > >>> FYI, I have a small stock of NOS air if any one is interested. > > >>> Gary Hodson > > >>> > > >>> > > >> Is there any way that the judges can differentiate air from > French-speaking > > >> Canada from that of English-speaking Canada? I'm assuming that in case > of > > >> slight differences in points, that I would get a small deduction for > using > > >> English-speaking Canadian air. > > >> Gary From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Sep 15 08:41:46 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:41:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <004e01cb54dc$0bbb8c90$2332a5b0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20100915144146.W8HT3.137752.root@hrndva-web04-z01> I participate in other LBC online lists and forums. None comes close in the level of knowledge of the cars, comradery, interesting people, or speed of response. So I linger even though my "huindred" is long gone. The list, which is actually the people that make it up, is amazing. Greg Lemon ---- John Sims wrote: > Well said! > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 9:33 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > > I love that people post questions. > I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal > experience, and based on research. > I love the research that goes into some posts. > I love the enthusiasm. > I love the commardery. > I love the humour. > I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, Poland, > Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc > etc) subtlely remind Americans that it's an international email list. > In fun. > I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on this > list. > I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that haven't been > built for over 40 something years. > After all - cars are cars. > But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a friendship, > a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps define us as the people > we are. > Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all you > guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just helps keep > my sanity!! > Sincerely. > Chris > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Sep 15 08:46:13 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:46:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: References: <11023f.524c7bb4.39c130e2@aol.com>,,<4C903CC7.7050306@att.net>, , <4C903D4E.7020306@att.net>, , , Message-ID: That 'h' in 'derrihre' should be an e with an accent. :( > Now, you see, I would have thought that regional differences would be more > easily detected than the language spoken. There's a lot of farming around and > I figured it would be easier to detect if you were smelling the "dairy air". > ( French = derrihre ) > Robert Duquette From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Sep 15 10:05:13 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:05:13 EDT Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... Message-ID: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> I love the fact you took the time to make a list! And I agree whole heartily, the list is amazing, as well as an amazing resource and I'm honored to be a allowed in the club. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 9/15/2010 6:35:54 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, austin.healey at gmail.com writes: I love that people post questions. I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal experience, and based on research. I love the research that goes into some posts. I love the enthusiasm. I love the commardery. I love the humour. I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, Poland, Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc etc) subtlely remind Americans that it's an international email list. In fun. I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on this list. I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that haven't been built for over 40 something years. After all - cars are cars. But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a friendship, a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps define us as the people we are. Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all you guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just helps keep my sanity!! Sincerely. Chris Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Sep 15 10:16:42 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:16:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] slightly off topic Alaska Message-ID: <20100915161642.DP1RX.284672.root@hrndva-web26-z02> Will be in Anchorage Alaska area for. About a week starting today, any British car event/scene? Or should I stick to moose and orcas and bears and such? From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 15 10:31:54 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:31:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] slightly off topic Alaska In-Reply-To: <20100915161642.DP1RX.284672.root@hrndva-web26-z02> References: <20100915161642.DP1RX.284672.root@hrndva-web26-z02> Message-ID: <4C90F4FA.3050909@justbrits.com> Greg, visit the S.C. & S.P. -> Healeys Section and look for IIRC Alaskan BJ-8 and look the chap up. Er, "assuming" you have your Resource Book and/or Membership Book ?!?!? Ed From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Sep 15 11:51:16 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:51:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Jeep Mechanics - Teamwork! In-Reply-To: <002801cb54f9$7b827c10$72877430$@net> References: <002801cb54f9$7b827c10$72877430$@net> Message-ID: <007101cb54fe$99083770$cb18a650$@verizon.net> Not necessarily Healey related but do not let your significant other see this or you will get a million questions about how long it takes to do a rebuild. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD78rTF0Rjo John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 15 12:01:43 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:01:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Stuff For Sale Message-ID: <4C910A07.2020300@justbrits.com> From a Hobbyist for other Hobbyists !!! And cross-over folks included !!! Couple items I bought for SWMBO's car that we are not going to be using. Our mis-fortune is your fortune !! 1 x 643-705 Champagne Panel Kit for '71 - '76 cars. NEW in SEALED, NEVER opened box. Current List = $299.95 + S & H [Moss]. SALE PRICE = $200.00 + ACTUAL USPS & NO 'handling' !! 1 x 244-340 Brown/Aut. Leaf DELUXE [molded] Carpet Kit in SEALED, NEVER opened box. Current List = $399.95 + S + S & H. SALE PRICE = $300.00 + ACTUAL USPS & NO 'handling' !! 1st come, 1st served. NO 'warranty' expressed nor implied. Sold AS IS and AS stated. Yada, yada & Blah, blah !!! PLEASE reply DIRECT and NOT to/thru List[s] !! Ed From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 13:03:40 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:03:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] slightly off topic Alaska In-Reply-To: <4C90F4FA.3050909@justbrits.com> References: <20100915161642.DP1RX.284672.root@hrndva-web26-z02> <4C90F4FA.3050909@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Take the public bus to the Alaskan brewery. No LBC, just great beer. The only thing we brought back from our cruise to Alaska, was a couple of T shirts and a bunch of beer from the brewery. Portland is the home to more brew pubs per capita, than any other other city in the US, and we still brought some home.. On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 9:31 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > Greg, visit the S.C. & S.P. -> Healeys Section and look for IIRC > Alaskan BJ-8 and look the chap up. Er, "assuming" you have your > Resource Book and/or Membership Book ?!?!? > > Ed > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 13:23:35 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:23:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <322E05CB-5908-4785-92F2-CC727E46E8BF@gmail.com> References: <322E05CB-5908-4785-92F2-CC727E46E8BF@gmail.com> Message-ID: well said, cheers On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 6:33 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > I love that people post questions. > I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal > experience, and based on research. > I love the research that goes into some posts. > I love the enthusiasm. > I love the commardery. > I love the humour. > I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, Poland, > Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc etc) subtlely > remind Americans that it's an international email list. In fun. > I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on this > list. > I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that haven't been > built for over 40 something years. > After all - cars are cars. > But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a > friendship, a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps define us > as the people we are. > Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all you > guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just helps keep > my sanity!! > Sincerely. > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Sep 15 14:07:07 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 22:07:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Air In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46332946A8C842AE9328ED486C26F6E1@tm> What about dust? Original old stock, 50ies British dust? The _real_ dust, not the one there is today??? From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 14:17:47 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:17:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stuff For Sale In-Reply-To: <4C910A07.2020300@justbrits.com> References: <4C910A07.2020300@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Did I miss an email Ed? What car do these parts fit? On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 11:01 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > From a Hobbyist for other Hobbyists !!! > And cross-over folks included !!! > > Couple items I bought for SWMBO's car that we are not > going to be using. Our mis-fortune is your fortune !! > > 1 x 643-705 Champagne Panel Kit for '71 - '76 cars. NEW > in SEALED, NEVER opened box. Current List = $299.95 + > S & H [Moss]. SALE PRICE = $200.00 + ACTUAL USPS & NO 'handling' !! > > 1 x 244-340 Brown/Aut. Leaf DELUXE [molded] Carpet Kit > in SEALED, NEVER opened box. Current List = $399.95 + S + > S & H. > SALE PRICE = $300.00 + ACTUAL USPS & NO 'handling' !! > > 1st come, 1st served. NO 'warranty' expressed nor implied. > Sold AS IS and AS stated. Yada, yada & Blah, blah !!! > > PLEASE reply DIRECT and NOT to/thru List[s] !! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Sep 15 14:30:18 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:30:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... Message-ID: <490874.64032.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I love the fact you typed all that in on your iPhone. Cheers!!!! Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:33 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: I love that people post questions. I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal experience, and based on research. I love the research that goes into some posts. I love the enthusiasm. I love the commardery. I love the humour. I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, Poland, Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc etc) subtlely remind Americans that it's an international email list. In fun. I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on this list. I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that haven't been built for over 40 something years. After all - cars are cars. But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a friendship, a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps define us as the people we are. Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all you guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just helps keep my sanity!! Sincerely. Chris Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Sep 15 14:55:48 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:55:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Change of password and removal confirmations. In-Reply-To: <007101cb54fe$99083770$cb18a650$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <321358.40716.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I just received a change-of-password and a remove-me-from-the-list confirmation emails of which I requested neither. Computers being computers and users being users, I'm sure there are 1001 reasons this could have happened, but I would like to stick around. If accidental, no harm, no foul. If malicious, OUCH!!!! Greg From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 15 14:56:48 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 15:56:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Stuff For Sale In-Reply-To: References: <4C910A07.2020300@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C913310.7070801@justbrits.com> BIG Ooooppppssss, Folks !! Sorry - MGB/MGC !! From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Sep 15 14:58:11 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:58:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Stator_wire_pulling_technique?= Message-ID: <20100915205811.5139.qmail@hoster902.com> Hello Listers, I've uploaded some pictures of an easy method for pulling the stator wire through the tube: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 15 15:57:43 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 16:57:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Change of password and removal confirmations. In-Reply-To: <321358.40716.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <321358.40716.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C914157.9010301@justbrits.com> << I just received a change-of-password and a remove-me-from-the-list confirmation emails of which I requested neither. >> Greg, FIRST go to YOUR List Home Page and see if it says anything. Even if it doesn't forward the mails to our Webmaster so Mark can see what's what !!! It IS very important to him !!! Ed From ynotink at msn.com Wed Sep 15 16:10:30 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 22:10:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have been using Castrol 4T 20W-50 in my 100. It is formulated for four cycle motorcycle engines and is rated SG-SH. It works just fine and requires no additives. I get it at Pep Boys and it costs about the same as regular Castrol. Bill Lawrence > Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:38:35 +0100 > From: bluehealey at gmail.com > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ > > Team. > > Longer term contributors to this list will possibly be a little jaded > by the cyclic reworking of the oil debate over the last few years. > The basic query appears to arise from the concern that 'modern' oil > may only be suitable for modern engines, and therefore not suitable > for our older technologies. > > The discussions and debates often became deeply technical and wandered > off into discussions about various additional additives that could > supplement the modern cocktail available from the big names out there. > I learned, from the feedback on this list, that the levels of ZDDP > additive in motor oil has been reducing over the years as it is > detrimental to catalytic converters. Unfortunately this reduction is > in turn detrimental to the life of camshafts that use flat face > followers (tappets) - that's us!! > > > The latest API Service Standard designation is SM for gasoline > automobile and light-truck engines. The SM standard refers to a group > of laboratory and engine tests, including the latest series for > control of high-temperature deposits. Current API service categories > include SM, SL and SJ for gasoline engines. All previous service > designations are obsolete, although motorcycle oils commonly still use > the SF/SG standard. > > > The API Service Standard is an alphabetic progression, starting at SA > and currently at SM. In the SG standard, ZDDP at 1200-1300ppm was > incorporated. From SG and beyond this density has been steadily > reduced until today where SM has just 600ppm. > > My simple rule of thumb therefore is to use whatever motor oil is > available that has an API no later than SG and change it every year. > No matter what the marketing guys might say if the container says API > SM don't use it. > > That should spark up some input - %^) > -- > _________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) > (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) > (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From besaw55 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 15 16:28:25 2010 From: besaw55 at yahoo.com (Skip Besaw) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:28:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Advice on selling a Healey Message-ID: <5E5B8CB4-A1B9-48D1-87EC-110424280293@yahoo.com> All, I would appreciate any advice on the best method for selling a Healey. Between now and the Spring I plan to sell my 1967 Austin Healey 3000. I would love to hear from others who have successfully sold theirs and the methods that they used. Please reply directly. I am in no rush and have no financial need to sell. It's just time as the car is in spectacular shape. Thanks is advance for you thoughts and ideas. From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Sep 15 16:30:07 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 15:30:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Change of password and removal confirmations. In-Reply-To: <4C914157.9010301@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <281861.91491.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Ed. Did that and sent an email to the admin. I figure someone hit "my" autox link at the bottom of another email. Greg --- On Wed, 9/15/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > From: Shop at " Just Brits " > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Change of password and removal confirmations. > To: "Healey List" > Date: Wednesday, September 15, 2010, 5:57 PM > << I just received a > change-of-password and a remove-me-from-the-list > confirmation emails of which I requested neither. >> > > Greg, FIRST go to YOUR List Home Page and see if it says > anything. > > Even if it doesn't forward the mails to our Webmaster so > Mark can see what's what !!! It IS very important to > him !!! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 15 17:13:30 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:13:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Change of password and removal confirmations. In-Reply-To: <281861.91491.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <281861.91491.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C91531A.90307@justbrits.com> << ...sent an email to the admin. >> Which is same as 'Owner', List Owner', etc. !! All of which go to Mark !! BUT the question I still have is did you FORWARD the org. 'Notice' to him ?? There is a LOT of info in the "source" that does NOT 'appear' in the mail you read, Greg. Does NOT appear in your mail to him either as all of the 'hidden source code' is about you. !! Even tho most folks won't understand the info, anybody CAN see it with most eMail Clients [aka programs]. As I am currently using Mozilla Thunderbird that's the client of which I will speak. In the Tool Bar -> View -> Message Source ( Ctrl + U). The gobblygook which pops up can tell you a bunch of useless [to most folks] info including WHERE a mail originated from & who, how many 'hops' or 'relays' the message took to get from Sender to Who Gets The Mail, etc., etc. !! Dat's WHY the org. would/might be helpful to Mark. Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Sep 15 17:32:56 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 19:32:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <20100915144146.W8HT3.137752.root@hrndva-web04-z01> Message-ID: <20100915193256.LQCX3.157465.root@pamxwww01-z01> I am fortunate to have this list and the E-Type list---I find these two lists equal in friendliness and knowledge skills. Both help keep me on the right track. Tom ---- glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: ============= I participate in other LBC online lists and forums. None comes close in the level of knowledge of the cars, comradery, interesting people, or speed of response. So I linger even though my "huindred" is long gone. The list, which is actually the people that make it up, is amazing. Greg Lemon ---- John Sims wrote: > Well said! > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Sep 15 17:49:40 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 16:49:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Change of password and removal confirmations. In-Reply-To: <4C91531A.90307@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <981132.71761.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Ed, et. al. Since it was someone using his admin page that initiated the email to me I figured it wasn't necessary. I use firefox/firebug. Greg --- On Wed, 9/15/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > From: Shop at " Just Brits " > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Change of password and removal confirmations. > To: "Healey List" > Date: Wednesday, September 15, 2010, 7:13 PM > << ...sent an email to the > admin. >> > > Which is same as 'Owner', List Owner', etc. !! > All of which go to Mark !! > > BUT the question I still have is did you FORWARD the org. > 'Notice' to him ?? There is a LOT of info in the > "source" > that does NOT 'appear' in the mail you read, Greg. > Does NOT appear in your mail to him either as all of the > 'hidden source code' is about you. !! > > Even tho most folks won't understand the info, anybody CAN > see it with most eMail Clients [aka programs]. As I > am currently > using Mozilla Thunderbird that's the client of which I will > speak. > In the Tool Bar -> View -> Message Source ( Ctrl + > U). > The gobblygook which pops up can tell you a bunch of > useless > [to most folks] info including WHERE a mail originated from > & > who, how many 'hops' or 'relays' the message took to get > from > Sender to Who Gets The Mail, etc., etc. !! > > Dat's WHY the org. would/might be helpful to Mark. > > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH > BJ 7 ] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 19:03:58 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:03:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] slightly off topic Alaska Message-ID: Sorry, read your post to quickly, I was talking about Juneau, Ira On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 9:16 AM, wrote: > Will be in Anchorage Alaska area for. About a week starting today, any > British car event/scene? Or should I stick to moose and orcas and bears and > such? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From barrie at look.ca Wed Sep 15 19:31:07 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 21:31:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <20100915193256.LQCX3.157465.root@pamxwww01-z01> References: <20100915144146.W8HT3.137752.root@hrndva-web04-z01> <20100915193256.LQCX3.157465.root@pamxwww01-z01> Message-ID: The MG and MGB V8 lists are the same. At 07:32 PM 9/15/2010, Tom Felts wrote: >I am fortunate to have this list and the E-Type list---I find these >two lists equal in friendliness and knowledge skills. Both help >keep me on the right track. > >Tom >---- glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > >============= >I participate in other LBC online lists and forums. None comes >close in the level of knowledge of the cars, comradery, interesting >people, or speed of response. >So I linger even though my "huindred" is long gone. > >The list, which is actually the people that make it up, is amazing. > >Greg Lemon > >---- John Sims wrote: > > Well said! > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 19:52:11 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:52:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> References: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C91784B.6060406@comcast.net> I love Ed. Doesn't everybody? bs On 9/15/2010 9:05 AM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > I love the fact you took the time to make a list! And I agree whole > heartily, the list is amazing, as well as an amazing resource and I'm honored to > be a allowed in the club. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > > In a message dated 9/15/2010 6:35:54 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > austin.healey at gmail.com writes: > > I love that people post questions. > I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal > experience, and based on research. > I love the research that goes into some posts. > I love the enthusiasm. > I love the commardery. > I love the humour. > I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, > Poland, Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc > etc) subtlely remind Americans that it's an international email list. > In fun. > I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on > this list. > I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that haven't > been built for over 40 something years. > After all - cars are cars. > But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a > friendship, a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps > define us as the people we are. > Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all > you guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just > helps keep my sanity!! > Sincerely. > Chris > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Sep 15 20:04:02 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:04:02 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <4C91784B.6060406@comcast.net> References: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> <4C91784B.6060406@comcast.net> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1092F5E@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Of course! Perhaps we should all throw our keys into a bowl. I'll take Joe's Sebring 3000 please. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia - where everyone loves everyone else -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, 16 September 2010 11:52 AM To: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... I love Ed. Doesn't everybody? bs On 9/15/2010 9:05 AM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > I love the fact you took the time to make a list! And I agree whole > heartily, the list is amazing, as well as an amazing resource and I'm > honored to be a allowed in the club. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > > In a message dated 9/15/2010 6:35:54 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > austin.healey at gmail.com writes: > > I love that people post questions. > I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal > experience, and based on research. > I love the research that goes into some posts. > I love the enthusiasm. > I love the commardery. > I love the humour. > I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, > Poland, Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc > etc) subtlely remind Americans that it's an international email list. > In fun. > I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on > this list. > I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that > haven't been built for over 40 something years. > After all - cars are cars. > But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a > friendship, a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps > define us as the people we are. > Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all > you guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just > helps keep my sanity!! > Sincerely. > Chris > ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From derek.c.job at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 00:21:53 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:21:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Good article on oils In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great Link Thanks Derek www.healeysix.net On Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 5:09 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > > http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/Oil%20for%20Vintage%20Cars.p > df > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Thu Sep 16 09:51:34 2010 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:51:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question Message-ID: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> The attachment bolts for the crown wheel (ring gear) are listed in the Official Parts List as: ATA 7232 According to the fastener reference, the first two numbers are the diameter in 1/16ths and the second two numbers are the length in 1/8ths. Clearly, the system does not work for the above number. Also, ATA is not listed in the fastener references. Can someone please explain the above numbering system? >From memory, I believe that the bolts are grade 8; 3/8 x 24; one inch in length. I don't have access to the bolts at the moment or I would measure them! Best regards, Jim From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 16 10:48:10 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:48:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> References: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> Message-ID: <4C924A4A.4090606@justbrits.com> << According to the fastener reference, >> Richard, WHAT 'reference' are you referring to ?? Ed From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Thu Sep 16 10:56:33 2010 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:56:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: <4C924A4A.4090606@justbrits.com> References: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> <4C924A4A.4090606@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <004b01cb55c0$1e637f30$5b2a7d90$@tx.rr.com> Look at the Official Mechanical Service Parts List. The second tab says "REFERENCE". Not difficult to find if you open the file. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:48 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question << According to the fastener reference, >> Richard, WHAT 'reference' are you referring to ?? Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjh.co at tx.rr.com From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 16 11:07:43 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:07:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: <004b01cb55c0$1e637f30$5b2a7d90$@tx.rr.com> References: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> <4C924A4A.4090606@justbrits.com> <004b01cb55c0$1e637f30$5b2a7d90$@tx.rr.com> Message-ID: <4C924EDF.2090801@justbrits.com> /Khn0n1: Permission denied From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 16 11:11:40 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:11:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question Message-ID: <4C924FCC.4090401@justbrits.com> < > Come on Rich, we do NOT know WHAT car you are working on or WHICH 'List' you are referring to !! "Mind" readers we ain't !! LOL !! Ed PS: Since it's a Healeys eMail List, I will rule out the Chevy book I have here that has a List such as you refer to !! From caddi5 at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 11:15:34 2010 From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 17:15:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] colorado red code needed Message-ID: <1677956422.1341706.1284657334699.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello, can someone PLEASE give me the correct Colorado red paint code ( modern code that a paint store can look up) thanks in advance. also were the suspension,springs ,shocks,etc painted gloss or semi gloss black. Mitch 1959 bn4 From rpmengr at bellsouth.net Thu Sep 16 11:46:16 2010 From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:46:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Help with bucket list Message-ID: <4C9257E8.6080706@bellsouth.net> I am looking for a fellow lister in England who can refer a good travel agent . I want to make the July Goodwood festival and then head up to Scotland to play few rounds of golf. Please contact me off list. Bob Memler '54 100 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Sep 16 11:47:58 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:47:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] colorado red code needed In-Reply-To: <1677956422.1341706.1284657334699.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1677956422.1341706.1284657334699.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <012001cb55c7$4de3d1e0$e9ab75a0$@verizon.net> The Pikovnik book has it as Mfg Code RD.02, ICI code 3742 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of caddi5 at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] colorado red code needed Hello, can someone PLEASE give me the correct Colorado red paint code ( modern code that a paint store can look up) thanks in advance. also were the suspension,springs ,shocks,etc painted gloss or semi gloss black. Mitch 1959 bn4 From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 16 11:54:57 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:54:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] colorado red code needed In-Reply-To: <012001cb55c7$4de3d1e0$e9ab75a0$@verizon.net> References: <1677956422.1341706.1284657334699.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <012001cb55c7$4de3d1e0$e9ab75a0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C9259F1.3060200@justbrits.com> << The Pikovnik book has it as Mfg Code RD.02, ICI code 3742 >> AND John, I would also mention to Mitch that the Archives contain not only YOUR info above at least a couple DOZEN times, but the Code for Col. Red prolly close to double that !! Whatcha think ??? Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Sep 16 13:14:57 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 15:14:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> References: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> Message-ID: <1314F512E1D74FD397A996241991B795@LIFEBOOK> Jim is referring to the standard BMC letter and number codes for standard fasteners. However, in the case of the crown wheel bolts (and for that matter, many other specialty bolts throughout the car) are specific part numbers and have nothing to do with the standard fastener codes. Therefore ATA 7232 is a specific part number for that specific bolt. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "rjhco" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:51 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question > The attachment bolts for the crown wheel (ring gear) are listed in the > Official Parts List as: ATA 7232 > > According to the fastener reference, the first two numbers are the > diameter > in 1/16ths and the second two numbers are the length in 1/8ths. Clearly, > the system does not work for the above number. Also, ATA is not listed in > the fastener references. > > Can someone please explain the above numbering system? > >>From memory, I believe that the bolts are grade 8; 3/8 x 24; one inch in > length. I don't have access to the bolts at the moment or I would measure > them! > > Best regards, > Jim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 14:56:11 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:56:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Good article on oils In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am amazed ar how quiet it has been since we have had the chance to read this article. Also, how kind of paradixically funny it is that todays oils (API-SM) have such a similar ZDDP level as to the oils that were used when these cars were being built. Sooo, unless we are rebuilding and breaking in, I'm rather inclined to just go with today's oils. Ok, some of you will disagree, but that is alright with me;^) Bob Johnson BJ8 >> >> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/Oil%20for%20Vintage%20Cars.p From ynotink at msn.com Thu Sep 16 15:54:18 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:54:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> References: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> Message-ID: agreed, However, if this, group to helps you to keep your sanity, we have cause to wonder about your state of mind... Bill Lawrence > From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:05:13 -0400 > To: austin.healey at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > > I love the fact you took the time to make a list! And I agree whole > heartily, the list is amazing, as well as an amazing resource and I'm honored to > be a allowed in the club. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > > > In a message dated 9/15/2010 6:35:54 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > austin.healey at gmail.com writes: > > I love that people post questions. > I love that people give answers, many of which are based on personal > experience, and based on research. > I love the research that goes into some posts. > I love the enthusiasm. > I love the commardery. > I love the humour. > I love the way many of us non USA based listers (Canada, Australia, > Poland, Hong Kong, England, The Netherlands, New Zealand, France etc > etc) subtlely remind Americans that it's an international email list. > In fun. > I love the fact there is very little flaming or personal attack on > this list. > I love that so many people still love their Healeys. Cars that haven't > been built for over 40 something years. > After all - cars are cars. > But to most of us, they are more than just transport. They are a > friendship, a challenge, a joy, a commardery that actually helps > define us as the people we are. > Most of all, in a blokey way, I love that i get to interact with all > you guys, it helps keep me grounded, and sometimes, I'm sure it just > helps keep my sanity!! > Sincerely. > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 16:39:47 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 15:39:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: <1314F512E1D74FD397A996241991B795@LIFEBOOK> References: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> <1314F512E1D74FD397A996241991B795@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Listers, Rich is correct. Anyone with a 100 (BN1/2) should be familiar with this since all of the Whitworth fasteners (primarily BSF) listed in the parts book are also denoted in this manner, i.e., as a BMC part no. Therefore, there is no way to determine the size/length/type of the fastener from the part no. in the Factory Parts Book. One project I hope to complete, is to decode all of the part numbered fasteners for the 100s. I didn't do it on dis-assembly of my 100 so it will have to wait to the assembly begins in earnest. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 12:14 PM, Rich C wrote: > Jim is referring to the standard BMC letter and number codes for standard > fasteners. However, in the case of the crown wheel bolts (and for that > matter, many other specialty bolts throughout the car) are specific part > numbers and have nothing to do with the standard fastener codes. Therefore > ATA 7232 is a specific part number for that specific bolt. > > Rich Chrysler > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "rjhco" > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:51 AM > > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question > > The attachment bolts for the crown wheel (ring gear) are listed in the >> Official Parts List as: ATA 7232 >> >> According to the fastener reference, the first two numbers are the >> diameter >> in 1/16ths and the second two numbers are the length in 1/8ths. Clearly, >> the system does not work for the above number. Also, ATA is not listed in >> the fastener references. >> >> Can someone please explain the above numbering system? >> >> From memory, I believe that the bolts are grade 8; 3/8 x 24; one inch in >>> >> length. I don't have access to the bolts at the moment or I would measure >> them! >> >> Best regards, >> Jim From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 16:51:07 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 06:51:07 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: References: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> <1314F512E1D74FD397A996241991B795@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Curt - I've done an extensive partial decode on the BSF fasteners from my A90. Since all the fasteners on that car are BSF & BA, my code list is quite good at this time. Many engine and drivetrain bolts, however, use oddball codes because of bolt ratings (there are several levels in British boltdom) and odd lengths or special heads. It can get very complicated so my bolt list focuses on standard grade bolts used on the chassis. I'll send that list to John Sims, it would be great if you can augment it when you do your disassembly. Cheers, Alan On 9/17/10, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Listers, > > Rich is correct. Anyone with a 100 (BN1/2) should be familiar with this > since all of the Whitworth fasteners (primarily BSF) listed in the parts > book are also denoted in this manner, i.e., as a BMC part no. Therefore, > there is no way to determine the size/length/type of the fastener from the > part no. in the Factory Parts Book. > > One project I hope to complete, is to decode all of the part numbered > fasteners for the 100s. I didn't do it on dis-assembly of my 100 so it will > have to wait to the assembly begins in earnest. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > > On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 12:14 PM, Rich C wrote: > >> Jim is referring to the standard BMC letter and number codes for standard >> fasteners. However, in the case of the crown wheel bolts (and for that >> matter, many other specialty bolts throughout the car) are specific part >> numbers and have nothing to do with the standard fastener codes. Therefore >> ATA 7232 is a specific part number for that specific bolt. >> >> Rich Chrysler >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "rjhco" >> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:51 AM >> >> To: >> Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question >> >> The attachment bolts for the crown wheel (ring gear) are listed in the >>> Official Parts List as: ATA 7232 >>> >>> According to the fastener reference, the first two numbers are the >>> diameter >>> in 1/16ths and the second two numbers are the length in 1/8ths. >>> Clearly, >>> the system does not work for the above number. Also, ATA is not listed >>> in >>> the fastener references. >>> >>> Can someone please explain the above numbering system? >>> >>> From memory, I believe that the bolts are grade 8; 3/8 x 24; one inch in >>>> >>> length. I don't have access to the bolts at the moment or I would >>> measure >>> them! >>> >>> Best regards, >>> Jim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 16:52:01 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 15:52:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: <4C924FCC.4090401@justbrits.com> References: <4C924FCC.4090401@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ed, it could be a mgb On Sep 16, 2010 10:11 AM, "Shop at " Just Brits wrote: > < > > > Come on Rich, we do NOT know WHAT car you are working > on or WHICH 'List' you are referring to !! > > "Mind" readers we ain't !! LOL !! > > Ed > > PS: Since it's a Healeys eMail List, I will rule out the Chevy > book I have here that has a List such as you refer to !! > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 17:03:54 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:03:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning Message-ID: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> Listers, I bought some H6 carbs (from a TR2/3 originally) on eBay for parts for my BN2. The carbs are intact, but they are pretty gunked-up. What is the List wisdom regarding cleaning up aluminium without scratching or deforming? TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Thu Sep 16 17:23:09 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:23:09 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: References: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> <4C91784B.6060406@comcast.net> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1092F5E@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1093182@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day Joe There was a film set in northeast USA during an ice storm when car keys were thrown into a bowl. I kept waving at the screen for Sigourney Weaver to take mine, but clearly she didn't hear me. Alas not, so Joe Armour's Sebring 3000 would be okay as second prize. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From: Joseph Costa [mailto:healey53 at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, 16 September 2010 9:33 PM To: Quinn, Patrick Cc: Bob Spidell; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... Patrick "Throwing ours keys in the bowl" was not meant as a car exchange in the '60s. I love this list but I don't know if I want to go that far. Joe BN1 #923 Coronet Cream BN2 100M BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and kid ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 18:00:13 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 17:00:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: References: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> <1314F512E1D74FD397A996241991B795@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Thanks. There is no telling what rhyme or reason was used as far as the part numbers used for various Whitworth fasteners. And, you bring up another very good point about strength ratings. A 3/8" X 1" long BSF hex bolt with an "R" strength rating may have a different part number than the same bolt, but with a higher "T" or "V" strength rating as used in the engine and other high stress components. > > Typically the most common strength rating codes I see in our cars are *"B", > "R", "S", "T", *and* "V"* going from lowest strength of the "B" rating, > most likely an SAE Grade 2, to the highest rating of "V", which roughly > corresponds to a Grade 8. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > > > > On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 3:51 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> Curt - >> >> I've done an extensive partial decode on the BSF fasteners from my >> A90. Since all the fasteners on that car are BSF & BA, my code list >> is quite good at this time. >> >> Many engine and drivetrain bolts, however, use oddball codes because >> of bolt ratings (there are several levels in British boltdom) and odd >> lengths or special heads. It can get very complicated so my bolt list >> focuses on standard grade bolts used on the chassis. >> >> I'll send that list to John Sims, it would be great if you can >> augment it when you do your disassembly. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Alan From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 16 18:06:13 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:06:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1093182@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> References: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> <4C91784B.6060406@comcast.net> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1092F5E@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1093182@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <4C92B0F5.1020805@justbrits.com> << I kept waving at the screen for Sigourney Weaver to take mine, but clearly she didn't hear me. >> Thank the Lord !!! Listers, would you wish THAT on 'poor' Sigourney ?? I didn't think so !!!!! Cheers........... . . . . LOL !!! Sorry mate, I just could NOT resist !!!! !! Ed From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 16 18:18:00 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:18:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning In-Reply-To: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> References: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C92B3B8.1070100@justbrits.com> Hi Bob, congrats on your 'score' !!! <> Not sure if they still do, but "Gunk" used to offer - found in all big boxes - a gallon can of Carb Cleaner. Were I you, I would get one, separate the carbs AFTER taking a pic or 2 -6, and dump one in the can and walk away for a few days or so. A small [I think they are about 2" x 1/2" brush 'head'] nylon bristle brush and 'scrub off' !! Then do same for the other. The linkage would most likely go in the can with 1 or the other carb. You might have to take the dome[s] and plunger off the body and soak separately - you will have to be the judge about how much of each carb can go in the 'pail'. Many, many moons ago I used to have 4 or 5 of those 'pails' around to soak all kinds of stuff. Even come with nice little strainer/basket !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Sep 16 19:33:49 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:33:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning In-Reply-To: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> References: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> Message-ID: <009001cb5608$60ec5820$22c50860$@rr.com> Bob, I cleaned a Zenith-Stromberg carb from a Spitfire with a gallon of carb cleaner from my local auto parts store. Worked great. It had a basket inside for dunking and soaking parts. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 7:04 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning Listers, I bought some H6 carbs (from a TR2/3 originally) on eBay for parts for my BN2. The carbs are intact, but they are pretty gunked-up. What is the List wisdom regarding cleaning up aluminium without scratching or deforming? TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Thu Sep 16 20:05:12 2010 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:05:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question In-Reply-To: <1314F512E1D74FD397A996241991B795@LIFEBOOK> References: <002c01cb55b7$0a18e190$1e4aa4b0$@tx.rr.com> <1314F512E1D74FD397A996241991B795@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <00b301cb560c$c3658e00$4a30aa00$@tx.rr.com> Rich: Thanks very much for the explanation. For those making a list of the dimensions for part numbers, I stopped by and measured one of the bolts this afternoon. The ATA 7232 is a grade 8; 3/8" x 24tpi bolt. It is .800 in length (measured from the underside of the head) with a thread length of .500 inches. The hex head is 5/8" rather than the standard 9/16 " for a 3/8" bolt. The bolt is the same in each of the three different ratio (11/43; 11/39 and 10/41) differentials that are set up for my BJ8. Best regards, Jim Hockert -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:15 PM To: rjhco; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question Jim is referring to the standard BMC letter and number codes for standard fasteners. However, in the case of the crown wheel bolts (and for that matter, many other specialty bolts throughout the car) are specific part numbers and have nothing to do with the standard fastener codes. Therefore ATA 7232 is a specific part number for that specific bolt. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "rjhco" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:51 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question > The attachment bolts for the crown wheel (ring gear) are listed in the > Official Parts List as: ATA 7232 > > According to the fastener reference, the first two numbers are the > diameter > in 1/16ths and the second two numbers are the length in 1/8ths. Clearly, > the system does not work for the above number. Also, ATA is not > listed in the fastener references. > > Can someone please explain the above numbering system? > >>From memory, I believe that the bolts are grade 8; 3/8 x 24; one inch >>in > length. I don't have access to the bolts at the moment or I would > measure them! > > Best regards, > Jim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From ynotink at msn.com Thu Sep 16 20:07:17 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 02:07:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1093182@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> References: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> <4C91784B.6060406@comcast.net>, <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1092F5E@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win>, , <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1093182@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: The Healey has probably aged better than Sigourney... Bill Lawrence > From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au > To: healey53 at gmail.com > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:23:09 +1000 > CC: healeys at autox.team.net; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > > G'day Joe > > There was a film set in northeast USA during an ice storm when car keys were > thrown into a bowl. I kept waving at the screen for Sigourney Weaver to take > mine, but clearly she didn't hear me. > > Alas not, so Joe Armour's Sebring 3000 would be okay as second prize. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > > From: Joseph Costa [mailto:healey53 at gmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, 16 September 2010 9:33 PM > To: Quinn, Patrick > Cc: Bob Spidell; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > > Patrick > > "Throwing ours keys in the bowl" was not meant as a car exchange in the > '60s. I love this list but I don't know if I want to go that far. > > Joe > BN1 #923 Coronet Cream > BN2 100M > BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and kid > > > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 20:07:52 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:07:52 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning In-Reply-To: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> References: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob The best stuff is the big gallon tin of GUNK Carb Cleaner. They should sell it at NAPA: http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp?img=LG_CC3K.jpg If you are talking about polishing, a wheel polisher works very well. Incidentally, with the TR2 H6 carbs are different and you will need to swap over your old H4 float chambers and choke levers. Regards, Alan On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 7:03 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > I bought some H6 carbs (from a TR2/3 originally) on eBay for parts for my > BN2. The carbs are intact, but they are pretty gunked-up. What is the List > wisdom regarding cleaning up aluminium without scratching or deforming? > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 20:13:52 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:13:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] freeze plugs Message-ID: <4C92CEE0.2090704@earthlink.net> Listers, How does one remove the freeze plugs from the 3000 cylinder block? They look like a shallow cup - not the curved ones that are smacked in the middle to expand them. Bob From dwflagg at juno.com Thu Sep 16 20:23:54 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:23:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... Message-ID: <20100916.192458.20190.266808@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Not sure I would kick her out of my sleeping bag!! > The Healey has probably aged better than Sigourney... > > Bill Lawrence > > > From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au > > To: healey53 at gmail.com > > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:23:09 +1000 > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > > > > G'day Joe > > > > There was a film set in northeast USA during an ice storm when car > keys > were > > thrown into a bowl. I kept waving at the screen for Sigourney > Weaver to > take > > mine, but clearly she didn't hear me. > > > > Alas not, so Joe Armour's Sebring 3000 would be okay as second > prize. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > > > > > > From: Joseph Costa [mailto:healey53 at gmail.com] > > Sent: Thursday, 16 September 2010 9:33 PM > > To: Quinn, Patrick > > Cc: Bob Spidell; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > > > > Patrick > > > > "Throwing ours keys in the bowl" was not meant as a car exchange > in the > > '60s. I love this list but I don't know if I want to go that > far. > > > > Joe > > BN1 #923 Coronet Cream > > BN2 100M > > BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and kid > > > > > > > ********************************************************************** > > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > > privileged information or confidential information or both. If > you > > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the > sender. > > > ********************************************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > om > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Moms Asked to Return to School Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c92d1a8895dbbbcf7ast04duc From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 20:29:00 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:29:00 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: References: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com> <4C91784B.6060406@comcast.net> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1092F5E@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1093182@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: Sorry, have to say, for a woman that is 60 years old she's aged pretty awesomely: http://www.imdb.com/media/rm4110126080/nm0000244 Even if she's had some plastic surgery, it looks to me she's kept it all to a minimum. On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 10:07 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > The Healey has probably aged better than Sigourney... > > Bill Lawrence From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 16 20:32:42 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:32:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] freeze plugs In-Reply-To: <4C92CEE0.2090704@earthlink.net> References: <4C92CEE0.2090704@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Using an old flathead screwdriver shaft, hammer the corner of the flat head on the plug until you get a hole, and dig it out. That usually works for me. On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 10:13 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > How does one remove the freeze plugs from the 3000 cylinder block? They > look like a shallow cup - not the curved ones that are smacked in the middle > to expand them. > > Bob From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Thu Sep 16 20:57:26 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:57:26 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Amazing Ghymkana Video (Nothing Healey) Message-ID: <55a39.7924c548.39c43316@aol.com> A friend sent me this link to a video and thought I should pass it along to the list. If you're into driving, this is a pretty cool exhibition of some outstanding driving skills in a wonderful, ultimate playground setting. Enjoy! _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TshFWSsrn8_ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TshFWSsrn8) Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From britishcars at shaw.ca Thu Sep 16 21:18:16 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:18:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning In-Reply-To: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> References: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> Message-ID: <011e01cb5616$f842aea0$e8c80be0$@ca> Do not use any caustic based cleaner.....will damage the ali.....use a carb cleaner....chlorinated solvent....don't spill any on your property. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 4:04 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning Listers, I bought some H6 carbs (from a TR2/3 originally) on eBay for parts for my BN2. The carbs are intact, but they are pretty gunked-up. What is the List wisdom regarding cleaning up aluminium without scratching or deforming? TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 16 21:23:48 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:23:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] freeze plugs In-Reply-To: References: <4C92CEE0.2090704@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4C92DF44.5000806@justbrits.com> << Using an old flathead screwdriver shaft, hammer the corner of the flat head on the plug until you get a hole, and dig it out. That usually works for me. >> Yep Alan, except the one "dedicated" one I have I sorta ground down one of the blade 'corners' so the it is 'sharp'. Penetrates better !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 21:24:52 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:24:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning In-Reply-To: References: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C92DF84.8080207@comcast.net> Thanks for all the advice, Alan and others. I got two of these for a little more than the cost of one 'camp & damper assembly' from Moss. I hope to cannibalize parts if/as I need them. BTW, the our BN2 is a 100M so it has H6 carbs but, yes, I can see that the float bowls and levers are different. Hopefully, the floats aren't as I might need them someday. bs On 9/16/2010 7:07 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Bob > > The best stuff is the big gallon tin of GUNK Carb Cleaner. They > should sell it at NAPA: > > http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp?img=LG_CC3K.jpg > > If you are talking about polishing, a wheel polisher works very well. > > Incidentally, with the TR2 H6 carbs are different and you will need to > swap over your old H4 float chambers and choke levers. > > Regards, > > Alan > > On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 7:03 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> Listers, >> >> I bought some H6 carbs (from a TR2/3 originally) on eBay for parts for my >> BN2. The carbs are intact, but they are pretty gunked-up. What is the List >> wisdom regarding cleaning up aluminium without scratching or deforming? >> >> TIA, >> Bob >> >> -- >> ******************************************************************* >> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net >> >> ******************************************************************* >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 17 00:41:27 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 08:41:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Official Parts List Question (Alan Seigrist) Message-ID: <142A8C7B3E794689B2C91C76A8184F24@tm> I just wanted to say that list I did is on John's web site. It's only for BN2, but I was actually planning to expand it for the complete 100 series in the same format. Maybe we could coordinate work?.. Best, tadek [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd] From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Fri Sep 17 01:47:29 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 00:47:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning In-Reply-To: <4C92DF84.8080207@comcast.net> References: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> <4C92DF84.8080207@comcast.net> Message-ID: You guys probably won't believe this, but those of us that have Radio Control airplanes for a hobby have had great success using antifreeze in a slow cooker type crock pot overnight on it's lowest setting. Ethelyne Glycol (green colored antifreeze such as Prestone) works the best. See this thread on one of my RC forums: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4699477/mpage_1/key_crockpot/tm.htm We also use Dawn Power Disolver with a toothbrush and hot water. Seems to clean aluminum real well. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 8:24 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Thanks for all the advice, Alan and others. > > I got two of these for a little more than the cost of one 'camp & damper > assembly' from Moss. I hope to cannibalize parts if/as I need them. > > BTW, the our BN2 is a 100M so it has H6 carbs but, yes, I can see that the > float bowls and levers are different. Hopefully, the floats aren't as I > might need them someday. > > > bs > > > > On 9/16/2010 7:07 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> Bob >> >> The best stuff is the big gallon tin of GUNK Carb Cleaner. They >> should sell it at NAPA: >> >> http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp?img=LG_CC3K.jpg >> >> If you are talking about polishing, a wheel polisher works very well. >> >> Incidentally, with the TR2 H6 carbs are different and you will need to >> swap over your old H4 float chambers and choke levers. >> >> Regards, >> >> Alan >> >> On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 7:03 AM, Bob Spidell >> wrote: >> >>> Listers, >>> >>> I bought some H6 carbs (from a TR2/3 originally) on eBay for parts for my >>> BN2. The carbs are intact, but they are pretty gunked-up. What is the >>> List >>> wisdom regarding cleaning up aluminium without scratching or deforming? >>> >>> TIA, >>> Bob >>> >>> -- >>> ******************************************************************* >>> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net >>> >>> ******************************************************************* >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>> >>> > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer at dslextreme.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Sep 17 04:01:48 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:01:48 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Good article on oils In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C933C8C.90303@chello.nl> I just wonder how many people actually had problems with the modern oils when using the right viscosity. Kees Oudesluijs,NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 17 06:24:17 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:24:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup Message-ID: <44540BC361E74F51955825E102A782AD@tm> Hello, Can anyone advise on the thickness of the phenolic spacers under the carbs on the 100 H6 carbs? They come in 3 sizes I believe. Does the thickness matter? I understand they are for thermal insulation.. Tadek From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 08:18:59 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 07:18:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning In-Reply-To: <011e01cb5616$f842aea0$e8c80be0$@ca> References: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> <011e01cb5616$f842aea0$e8c80be0$@ca> Message-ID: <244394.81492.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> What about soda blasting ? It leaves them wonderful without any damage Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: PG To: Bob Spidell ; healeylist Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 10:18:16 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb cleaning Do not use any caustic based cleaner.....will damage the ali.....use a carb cleaner....chlorinated solvent....don't spill any on your property. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 4:04 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning Listers, I bought some H6 carbs (from a TR2/3 originally) on eBay for parts for my BN2. The carbs are intact, but they are pretty gunked-up. What is the List wisdom regarding cleaning up aluminium without scratching or deforming? TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 17 08:29:05 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 07:29:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb cleaning In-Reply-To: <244394.81492.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4C92A25A.8010706@comcast.net> <011e01cb5616$f842aea0$e8c80be0$@ca> <244394.81492.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C937B31.6070308@comcast.net> I'd be concerned about removing any metal at all from the machined surfaces with tight clearances. bs On 9/17/2010 7:18 AM, Josi Vicente Vargas wrote: > What about soda blasting ? > It leaves them wonderful without any damage > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > > > > Do not use any caustic based cleaner.....will damage the ali.....use a carb > cleaner....chlorinated solvent....don't spill any on your property. > > Paul > > > > Listers, > > I bought some H6 carbs (from a TR2/3 originally) on eBay for parts for my > BN2. The carbs are intact, but they are > pretty gunked-up. What is the List wisdom regarding cleaning up aluminium > without scratching or deforming? > > TIA, > Bob > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From britishcars at shaw.ca Fri Sep 17 08:58:05 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 07:58:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Jeep Mechanics - Teamwork! In-Reply-To: <007101cb54fe$99083770$cb18a650$@verizon.net> References: <002801cb54f9$7b827c10$72877430$@net> <007101cb54fe$99083770$cb18a650$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <002201cb5678$bc0ffde0$342ff9a0$@ca> Great Video I've got a 52 Willy's flat fender that is on my "to do" list.......wonder if it will be that easy? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:51 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] FW: Jeep Mechanics - Teamwork! Not necessarily Healey related but do not let your significant other see this or you will get a million questions about how long it takes to do a rebuild. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD78rTF0Rjo John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From pennell at cox.net Fri Sep 17 09:04:22 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 11:04:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] freeze plugs In-Reply-To: <4C92CEE0.2090704@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> Bob, Someone has suggested the screwdriver and hammer approach. Whatever the method they get destroyed and will have to be replaced with new. As I recall they are standard sizes off the shelf of parts stores. Keith ---- Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > How does one remove the freeze plugs from the 3000 cylinder block? They > look like a shallow cup - not the curved ones that are smacked in the > middle to expand them. > > Bob From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Sep 17 09:25:32 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 08:25:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup In-Reply-To: <44540BC361E74F51955825E102A782AD@tm> References: <44540BC361E74F51955825E102A782AD@tm> Message-ID: Tadek, Original H6 carbs as on the 100M/Le Mans setup had no phenolic spacers so to speak, at least not like the original H4 setup. They just had a thin gasket. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 5:24 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > Hello, > > Can anyone advise on the thickness of the phenolic spacers under the carbs > on the 100 H6 carbs? They come in 3 sizes I believe. Does the thickness > matter? I understand they are for thermal insulation.. > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 17 09:58:28 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 17:58:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <25FF622F9FD541F2A29CC1E24DC46161@tm> Well, but what are they for, pardon a stupid question?... And how does the thickness matter? . Best, tadek _____ From: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 5:26 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup Tadek, Original H6 carbs as on the 100M/Le Mans setup had no phenolic spacers so to speak, at least not like the original H4 setup. They just had a thin gasket. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 5:24 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: Hello, Can anyone advise on the thickness of the phenolic spacers under the carbs on the 100 H6 carbs? They come in 3 sizes I believe. Does the thickness matter? I understand they are for thermal insulation.. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Sep 17 10:04:16 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:04:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails Message-ID: Has anyone else experienced five or more junk E-mails solitations per day? This has started only in the last two weeks. I have not opened any as they are easily recognized as phishing. I use this E-ail address only for this List. Rich Kahn From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Fri Sep 17 10:28:11 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:28:11 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails Message-ID: <3fc8.4b36255f.39c4f11b@aol.com> Not I. I get a few every now and then, but for the most part, everything's been normal. Steven Kingsbury In a message dated 9/17/2010 9:04:37 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tahoehealey at hotmail.com writes: Has anyone else experienced five or more junk E-mails solitations per day? This has started only in the last two weeks. I have not opened any as they are easily recognized as phishing. I use this E-ail address only for this List. Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Sep 17 10:34:40 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:34:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup In-Reply-To: <25FF622F9FD541F2A29CC1E24DC46161@tm> References: <25FF622F9FD541F2A29CC1E24DC46161@tm> Message-ID: They are stand offs for the crabs and provide heat insulation from the manifolds. On Sep 17, 2010 8:59 AM, "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" wrote: > Well, but what are they for, pardon a stupid question?... And how does the > thickness matter? . > > > > Best, tadek > > > > _____ > > From: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] > Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 5:26 PM > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans > carburettor setup > > > > Tadek, > > Original H6 carbs as on the 100M/Le Mans setup had no phenolic spacers so to > speak, at least not like the original H4 setup. They just had a thin > gasket. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 5:24 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz > wrote: > > Hello, > > Can anyone advise on the thickness of the phenolic spacers under the carbs > on the 100 H6 carbs? They come in 3 sizes I believe. Does the thickness > matter? I understand they are for thermal insulation.. > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From barrie at look.ca Fri Sep 17 10:41:25 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:41:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Must go Message-ID: I am sorry but I have to sign out of this list as it is just becoming too interesting. My BJ8 has long gone and now I drive an MGB GT V8 ( okay- so I have gone to the dark side). But the MGB list is very active and so is the Aston Martin list. All this coupled with mowing the lawn, testing beer and generally doing whirling dervish manoeuvres forces me to take myself off the list - I will miss you Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie at look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com From barrie at look.ca Fri Sep 17 10:55:35 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:55:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rich, I use this address for everything and I only get occasional junk. But thankfully I still get those notifications that I have won tens of millions of dollars. I am banking them all so that I can buy the Pacific Ocean. At 12:04 PM 9/17/2010, Richard Kahn wrote: >Has anyone else experienced five or more junk E-mails solitations per day? >This has started only in the last two weeks. I have not opened any as they are >easily recognized as phishing. I use this E-ail address only for this List. >Rich Kahn >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie barrie at look.ca 705--721-9060 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Sep 17 11:09:07 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:09:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01f601cb568b$0acc38b0$2064aa10$@verizon.net> I get none and this is my main email address. Whenever I give out an email address when ordering, etc. I always give one of the other three that I have. Then, after several months of having no new spam on one of those addresses, I will consider changing to this one. For example, I just opened a new amazon.com account, gave them one of my test email accounts and when several months have elapsed with no increase in spam, I will consider changing my amazon account accordingly as I only access the three other email accounts once a week or so. I do not have those email accounts dump into Outlook automatically as I do my main account. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 12:56 PM To: Richard Kahn; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Junk E-mails Rich, I use this address for everything and I only get occasional junk. But thankfully I still get those notifications that I have won tens of millions of dollars. I am banking them all so that I can buy the Pacific Ocean. At 12:04 PM 9/17/2010, Richard Kahn wrote: >Has anyone else experienced five or more junk E-mails solitations per day? >This has started only in the last two weeks. I have not opened any as >they are easily recognized as phishing. I use this E-ail address only for this List. >Rich Kahn From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 17 11:12:57 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:12:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9AC49D6F-CAF7-4CBE-B44D-67E6C359E80D@sbcglobal.net> Yes they have been flooding in daily for the last week or two David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Sep 17, 2010, at 9:04 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > Has anyone else experienced five or more junk E-mails solitations > per day? > This has started only in the last two weeks. I have not opened any > as they are > easily recognized as phishing. I use this E-ail address only for > this List. > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From jstmorris at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 11:16:59 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:16:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails In-Reply-To: <3fc8.4b36255f.39c4f11b@aol.com> Message-ID: <113819.25744.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Same here. I receive very little junk mail and what I do get, goes to a spam box; which I check daily and 99% are spam which I delete. Occassionally, an email I want is in the spam box but I simple retrieve it and all is well. It's that Murphy Guy. So just keep smiling. :-) --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Fri, 9/17/10, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] Junk E-mails To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net Received: Friday, September 17, 2010, 12:28 PM Not I. I get a few every now and then, but for the most part, everything's been normal. Steven Kingsbury On dated 9/17/2010, tahoehealey at hotmail.com writes: << Has anyone else experienced five or more junk E-mails solitations per day? This has started only in the last two weeks. I have not opened any as they are easily recognized as phishing. I use this E-ail address only for this List. Rich Kahn >> From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Sep 17 11:27:25 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:27:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] freeze plugs References: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> Message-ID: List, And what's the consensus on installing new core, a.k.a. freeze, plugs? I've been installing with any old sealant, then coating with J B Weld. (just to start the discussion) I lost two plugs on the COB in 1990 and vowed to never let a plug spoil another trip. The Other Ed From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 17 11:57:49 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:57:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails In-Reply-To: <113819.25744.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <113819.25744.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C93AC1D.2000600@justbrits.com> << Same here. I receive very little junk mail and what I do get, goes to a spam box; which I check daily and 99% are spam which I delete. Occassionally, an email I want is in the spam box but I simple retrieve it and all is well. It's that Murphy Guy. So just keep smiling. :-) >> Mine is same and you're correct re Mr. Murphy, Scott !!! !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Sep 17 12:18:08 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 11:18:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails In-Reply-To: <4C93AC1D.2000600@justbrits.com> References: <113819.25744.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4C93AC1D.2000600@justbrits.com> Message-ID: I know Ed won't agree, but you might consider dropping hotmail like a stone and going to Gmail. I get about 2 pieces of spam a month that make it into my inbox. Google has the best spam filters in the business IMHO Rick On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 10:57 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << Same here. I receive very little junk mail and what I do get, goes to a > spam > box; which I check daily and 99% are spam which I delete. Occassionally, an > email > I want is in the spam box but I simple retrieve it and all is well. > > It's that Murphy Guy. So just keep smiling. :-) >> > > Mine is same and you're correct re Mr. Murphy, Scott !!! !! > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] > Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Sep 17 13:15:49 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:15:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup In-Reply-To: References: <25FF622F9FD541F2A29CC1E24DC46161@tm> Message-ID: Tadek, Ira is correct, and even though the original Austin Healey H6 carburetor setup did not have these thick spacers, you may want to add them. I wouldn't go too thick until you can work out the issue of fitting them in the engine compartment. Let me know what you work out. I have a couple of photos of an original 100M carburetor setup and will try to forward it to you. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 9:34 AM, I Erbs wrote: > They are stand offs for the crabs and provide heat insulation from the > manifolds. > > On Sep 17, 2010 8:59 AM, "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" < > tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > > Well, but what are they for, pardon a stupid question?... And how does > the > > thickness matter? . > > > > Best, tadek > > _____ > > > > From: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] > > Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 5:26 PM > > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans > > carburettor setup > > > > > > > > Tadek, > > > > Original H6 carbs as on the 100M/Le Mans setup had no phenolic spacers so > to > > speak, at least not like the original H4 setup. They just had a thin > > gasket. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Curt > > > > On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 5:24 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz > > wrote: > > > > Hello, > > > > Can anyone advise on the thickness of the phenolic spacers under the > carbs > > on the 100 H6 carbs? They come in 3 sizes I believe. Does the thickness > > matter? I understand they are for thermal insulation.. > > > > Tadek From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 13:45:30 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:45:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <253807.38436.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Yahoo.com's spam filter works well, too. --- On Fri, 9/17/10, Richard Ewald wrote: > From: Richard Ewald > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Junk E-mails > To: "Shop at Just Brits" > Cc: "Healey" > Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 2:18 PM > I know Ed won't agree, but you might > consider dropping hotmail like a stone > and going to Gmail. I get about 2 pieces of spam a > month that make it into > my inbox. > Google has the best spam filters in the business IMHO > Rick > > On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 10:57 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " > > wrote: > > > << Same here. I receive very little junk > mail and what I do get, goes to a > > spam > > box; which I check daily and 99% are spam which I > delete. Occassionally, an > > email > > I want is in the spam box but I simple retrieve it and > all is well. > > > > It's that Murphy Guy. So just keep > smiling. :-) >> > > > > Mine is same and you're correct re Mr. Murphy, Scott > !!! !! > > > > Ed > > '67 BJ-7 > > [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates > AH BJ 7 ] > > Please visit MY site at: > www.justbrits.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 14:08:35 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:08:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <880007.95948.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I just looked at the carb setup on my M. With the cold air box in place adding these spacers would prevent installing the cold air box. So if going with the ever-hard-to-install cold air box, check clearance on the corner next to that frame piece. To reduce heat, consider adding a stock second heat shield. Get a second one and separate it with standard washers. This will knock heat down. I have never done this or heard from anybody doing it. It is on my list of modifications that judges will never see. Best Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M (factory) --- On Fri, 9/17/10, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Subject: Re: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup To: "I Erbs" Cc: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" , healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 12:15 PM Tadek, Ira is correct, and even though the original Austin Healey H6 carburetor setup did not have these thick spacers, you may want to add them. I wouldn't go too thick until you can work out the issue of fitting them in the engine compartment. Let me know what you work out. I have a couple of photos of an original 100M carburetor setup and will try to forward it to you. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 9:34 AM, I Erbs wrote: > They are stand offs for the crabs and provide heat insulation from the > manifolds. > > On Sep 17, 2010 8:59 AM, "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" < > tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > > Well, but what are they for, pardon a stupid question?... And how does > the > > thickness matter? . > > > > Best, tadek > > _____ > > > > From: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] > > Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 5:26 PM > > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans > > carburettor setup > > > > > > > > Tadek, > > > > Original H6 carbs as on the 100M/Le Mans setup had no phenolic spacers so > to > > speak, at least not like the original H4 setup. They just had a thin > > gasket. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Curt > > > > On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 5:24 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz > > wrote: > > > > Hello, > > > > Can anyone advise on the thickness of the phenolic spacers under the > carbs > > on the 100 H6 carbs? They come in 3 sizes I believe. Does the thickness > > matter? I understand they are for thermal insulation.. > > > > Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From ynotink at msn.com Fri Sep 17 15:26:00 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:26:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <20100916.192458.20190.266808@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> References: <20100916.192458.20190.266808@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: yeah, but if you had (the opportunity) to choose one or the other...? > To: ynotink at msn.com > CC: patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au; healey53 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:23:54 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > From: dwflagg at juno.com > > Not sure I would kick her out of my sleeping bag!! > > > The Healey has probably aged better than Sigourney... > > > > Bill Lawrence > > > > > From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au > > > To: healey53 at gmail.com > > > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:23:09 +1000 > > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > > > > > > G'day Joe > > > > > > There was a film set in northeast USA during an ice storm when car > > keys > > were > > > thrown into a bowl. I kept waving at the screen for Sigourney > > Weaver to > > take > > > mine, but clearly she didn't hear me. > > > > > > Alas not, so Joe Armour's Sebring 3000 would be okay as second > > prize. > > > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > > > Patrick Quinn > > > Sydney, Australia > > > > > > > > > From: Joseph Costa [mailto:healey53 at gmail.com] > > > Sent: Thursday, 16 September 2010 9:33 PM > > > To: Quinn, Patrick > > > Cc: Bob Spidell; ATIGHTPROD at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > > > > > > Patrick > > > > > > "Throwing ours keys in the bowl" was not meant as a car exchange > > in the > > > '60s. I love this list but I don't know if I want to go that > > far. > > > > > > Joe > > > BN1 #923 Coronet Cream > > > BN2 100M > > > BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and kid > > > > > > > > > > > ********************************************************************** > > > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > > > privileged information or confidential information or both. If > > you > > > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the > > sender. > > > > > ********************************************************************** > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > om > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Moms Asked to Return to School > Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c92d1a8bdb1065db20st06duc From ynotink at msn.com Fri Sep 17 15:28:36 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:28:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: References: <42878.24ace766.39c248b9@aol.com>, <4C91784B.6060406@comcast.net>, <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1092F5E@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win>, , <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C1093182@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win>, , Message-ID: she has probably had a little help with that. I wonder if she keeps a portrait in a secret room. > Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:29:00 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I love about this list... > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: ynotink at msn.com > CC: patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au; healey53 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > Sorry, have to say, for a woman that is 60 years old she's aged pretty > awesomely: > > http://www.imdb.com/media/rm4110126080/nm0000244 > > Even if she's had some plastic surgery, it looks to me she's kept it > all to a minimum. > > On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 10:07 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > The Healey has probably aged better than Sigourney... > > > > Bill Lawrence From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 17 15:32:33 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 23:32:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup Message-ID: <8D5EC58C633B4B03A0D9251A6B2B2CDE@tm> ________________________________________ From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:Tadeusz.Malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:24 PM To: 'Jim LeBlanc'; 'I Erbs'; 'Curt/Nancy Arndt' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup Thatbs precisely the problem b: When assembling the carbs I noticed that: - the extra heat shield (I got from Denis Welch) does not fit properly without touching the manifold unless you stack 2 phenolic washers - even if I install just one thick phenolic washer I cannot get the cold air box as it does not clear the knocked frame pieceb& Itbs a bit of a catch 22 situation.. Tadek From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 15:43:50 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:43:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Cold Air Box fitting In-Reply-To: <8D5EC58C633B4B03A0D9251A6B2B2CDE@tm> References: <8D5EC58C633B4B03A0D9251A6B2B2CDE@tm> Message-ID: <136405.56024.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I plan to install an Air Cold Box in my BN2 with a Dennis Welch Cilinder Head, H6 Carbs and a heath Shield. I have heard that I must alter a frame piece in order to foi but I do not know what I have to do. Please help !!!! Tadek mentions it in his email.... Does anyone have pictures of the altered piece in the frame . All help is welcomed because Tadek , in Poland, is also in the same problem....and Jose, in Colombia, is going to have the same problem in a few months.... Thanks, Jose Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 4:32:33 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup ________________________________________ From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:Tadeusz.Malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:24 PM To: 'Jim LeBlanc'; 'I Erbs'; 'Curt/Nancy Arndt' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup Thatbs precisely the problem b: When assembling the carbs I noticed that: - the extra heat shield (I got from Denis Welch) does not fit properly without touching the manifold unless you stack 2 phenolic washers - even if I install just one thick phenolic washer I cannot get the cold air box as it does not clear the knocked frame pieceb& Itbs a bit of a catch 22 situation.. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From austinbj8 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 15:48:31 2010 From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:48:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tools for sale Message-ID: <606174.32701.qm@web34501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello fellow AH people, As some of you aware we sold our beloved BJ8 and now I am attempting to sell off my remaining STUFF. I have a Sharpe in line air filter, the first $25.00 takes it, second item is a partial set of pullers and bearing splitters, including the board, these are all Snap On tools. The final is a set of British Standard sockets and wrenches, these too are Snap On products. Also still available is a pair of NOS Lucas Square 8 Plus driving lamps. These were listed as an option for Healey's in some of the literature that I have seen. Thanks to all of the great people that we have met in the over thirty years that we have been associated with the club. If anyone has any interest in the above mentioned items please contact me off list. TIA, John From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 17 15:53:32 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 16:53:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: References: <20100916.192458.20190.266808@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <4C93E35C.7080709@justbrits.com> << yeah, but if you had (the opportunity) to choose one or the other...? >> Would SERIOUSLY depend on HOW long the "relationship" was for, Bill !!!!! AND could it be retro-active ??? LOL !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 15:58:07 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:58:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Cold Air Box fitting In-Reply-To: <136405.56024.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <892753.67317.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The frame piece is bent to make room for the cold air box. Knowing what I do about the cold air box, I would avoid adding one to a car. In my mind the only reason to have a cold air box is for original factory condition. First step is to buy the longer sheet metal bracket between the aluminum shroud and the frame. Then bend the frame to meet that bracket. The frame bend point is about 1/2 to 5/8 inch above the wheel well. You will need room for the electricals in that area. Let me know if you have more questions. Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M --- On Fri, 9/17/10, Josi Vicente Vargas wrote: From: Josi Vicente Vargas Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Cold Air Box fitting To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 2:43 PM I plan to install an Air Cold Box in my BN2 with a Dennis Welch Cilinder Head, H6 Carbs and a heath Shield. I have heard that I must alter a frame piece in order to foi but I do not know what I have to do. Please help !!!! Tadek mentions it in his email.... Does anyone have pictures of the altered piece in the frame . All help is welcomed because Tadek , in Poland, is also in the same problem....and Jose, in Colombia, is going to have the same problem in a few months.... Thanks, Jose Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 4:32:33 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup ________________________________________ From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:Tadeusz.Malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:24 PM To: 'Jim LeBlanc'; 'I Erbs'; 'Curt/Nancy Arndt' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor setup Thatbs precisely the problem b: When assembling the carbs I noticed that: - the extra heat shield (I got from Denis Welch) does not fit properly without touching the manifold unless you stack 2 phenolic washers - even if I install just one thick phenolic washer I cannot get the cold air box as it does not clear the knocked frame pieceb& Itbs a bit of a catch 22 situation.. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 16:04:05 2010 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:04:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Message-ID: <816779.86806.qm@web36703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Tadeusz, A bit late but... congrats on the restoration job and thanks for the pics. I am a couple months behind you in the process, currently close to finish suspension/steering/controls/brakes and soon to start wiring and plumbing. So a series of pics like these are helpful as reference and as inspiration. Bert --- On Fri, 9/10/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 7:44 AM > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car > from the state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed > with questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of > his very original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully > spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just > waiting for the last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in > Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper > :-) ) as I wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter > project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re > print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could > not find proper one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of > silver before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in > white which although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild > my previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 16:19:03 2010 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:19:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 wiring harness for sale Message-ID: <457592.58855.qm@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi listers, I will be putting a BN2 wiring harness for sale on feebay. New condition, british made with PVC wires bought from NOS locators. Is actually a total of 5 sub harnesses. Yes, I am going for broke and decided to upgrade to the lacquered wires concours style harness. I guarantee there's still plenty of new smoke in this harness that hasn't escaped yet. 45% off Moss price for listers. Have a grand weekend, Bert From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri Sep 17 16:32:15 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 22:32:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What I love about this list... In-Reply-To: <4C93E35C.7080709@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <20100917223215.SOMNT.301565.root@hrndva-web28-z02> What I love about this list... we start out talking about the list and end up at sigourney Weaver. Greg Lemon ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: > << yeah, but if you had (the opportunity) to choose one or the other...? >> > > Would SERIOUSLY depend on HOW long the "relationship" > was for, Bill !!!!! > > AND could it be retro-active ??? LOL !! > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] > Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 17 17:10:42 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 16:10:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shock links Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100917160930.02000d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Does anyone know who can install new rubber into the original shock links? The new Moss links are not "as original". Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Sep 17 17:21:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 07:21:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Shock links In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100917160930.02000d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100917160930.02000d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John - Putting rubber properly into the ball socket end of the shock links is basically impossible. You are better off buying new ones. If you really want OEM I can point you in the right direction, but honestly new ones are cheap and will be much better wearing than old stock. Alan On 9/18/10, john spaur wrote: > Does anyone know who can install new rubber into the original shock > links? The new Moss links are not "as original". > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Sep 17 19:38:46 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:38:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Cold Air Box fitting In-Reply-To: <136405.56024.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <8D5EC58C633B4B03A0D9251A6B2B2CDE@tm> <136405.56024.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: For something completely different, on both customers cars we are currently assembling, we plan to install completely stock H4 carbs and air filters set up, plain bonnet with no louvers, etc. Nothing extra to buy, fit or bend. Should be a rare contrast to what everybody else is doing these days. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Josi Vicente Vargas" Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 5:43 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Cold Air Box fitting > I plan to install an Air Cold Box in my BN2 with a Dennis Welch Cilinder > Head, > H6 Carbs and a heath Shield. I have heard that I must alter a frame piece > in > order to foi but I do not know what I have to do. Please help !!!! > > Tadek > mentions it in his email.... Does anyone have pictures of the altered > piece > in the frame . All help is welcomed because Tadek , in Poland, is also in > the > same problem....and Jose, in Colombia, is going to have the same problem > in > a > few months.... > > > Thanks, > > Jose > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 > 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > ________________________________ > From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, > September 17, 2010 4:32:33 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic > spacers for 100 LeMans carburettor > setup > ________________________________________ > From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > [mailto:Tadeusz.Malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] > Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:24 > PM > To: 'Jim LeBlanc'; 'I Erbs'; 'Curt/Nancy Arndt' > Cc: > 'healeys at autox.team.net' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] thickness of phenolic spacers > for 100 LeMans > carburettor setup > > Thatbs precisely the problem b: > > When > assembling the carbs I noticed that: > - the extra heat shield (I got from > Denis Welch) does not fit properly > without touching the manifold unless you > stack 2 phenolic washers > - even if I install just one thick phenolic washer I > cannot get the cold air > box as it does not clear the knocked frame pieceb& > Itbs a bit of a catch 22 situation.. > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 17 20:43:46 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:43:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Junk E-mails In-Reply-To: References: <113819.25744.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4C93AC1D.2000600@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C942762.6060207@justbrits.com> << I know Ed won't agree, >> Yep sorta right, Rik !! << but you might consider dropping hotmail like a stone >> Dumber than a rock move. As far as the 'big' "free" eMail providers go, Hotmail IS on the GOOD list. << and going to Gmail. >> Worse move !! In the eMail Mailing List world [and others I'm sure], Gmail is just one [1] step above Yahoo which is one [1] step above [pos] aol. Each of the three seem to LOVE to "out of the blue" make code changes to their eMail Clients & Servers which do NOT follow The RULES. PERIOD. FACT. << I get about 2 pieces of spam a month that make it into my inbox. >> Like everything else, "they will come" sad to say. The facts are and seems likely to remain so, that hackers ARE better & faster code writers then the legit folks that DO follow The Rules. Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Sep 17 22:18:21 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:18:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] freeze plugs In-Reply-To: References: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> Message-ID: Note to self: If Ed every brings me a car for freeze plug replacement, do not offer to do it for free. In fact remember to charge EXTRA. On both the curved type and cupped type I have always coated the edge with Permatex either #1 or#2. JB Weld? ::: shudder::: No thanks. The following assumes you can access the soft plug hole and get at it, such as the engine is on a stand with no manifolds. In the car? Have fun. Better you than me. For a domed type FP one great large honkin hit with a good sized ball peen hammer will spread the FP enough to ensure a water tight seal. Cup type? Find a big assed socket that just fits inside the cup. Tap them in evenly until flush. Again coat with Permatex. In the car a thing called a freeze plug installer is damn near irreplaceable. Worth every penny. Freeze plug installer http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/atd-5270.html Hot rodder thread on freeze plugs http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-right-way-install-freeze-plugs-99101.html Good luck, Rick On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Ed Woods wrote: > List, > > And what's the consensus on installing new core, a.k.a. freeze, plugs? > > I've been installing with any old sealant, then coating with J B Weld. > (just to start the discussion) > > I lost two plugs on the COB in 1990 and vowed to never let a plug spoil > another trip. > > The Other Ed _______________________________________________ From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 22:28:40 2010 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:28:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] SOLD: BN2 wiring harness for sale In-Reply-To: <457592.58855.qm@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <148297.53810.qm@web36705.mail.mud.yahoo.com> this one went fast. have a grand Healey weekend. b. From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sat Sep 18 01:35:19 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 09:35:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BN2: Cold Air Box fitting In-Reply-To: <892753.67317.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <136405.56024.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <892753.67317.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011FF7E57F5A@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> On my M-spec 100 BN1 ( hardly visible ) I build the engine with all the M-spec modifications except the cold air box. I just used the standard 100 air filters and modified them to fit H6 carbs. Looks completely original, even Concours Judges need to have a closer look to see the difference. So for this set up no frame etc. modifications are necessary and the car runs great, even without cold air box. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Sep 18 02:02:37 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:02:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] sleeved thermostats Message-ID: <4C94721D.306@chello.nl> Healey crowd, Some time ago I sold NOS sleeved thermostats to a fair number of list members. Out of technical curiosity I would like to hear if their fitment had any effect on the cooling. Up to now I had precious little feedback on the results, one exception being Steve Byers. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 04:48:41 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:48:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Cooler questions Message-ID: Listers- The car that I recently purchased came with an oil cooler fitted however I'm not sure yet that I want to retain it and I have some questions 1. In normal driving conditions i.e. non competitive, does an oil cooler really make any difference 2. The oil cooler is fitted low down below the radiator but there is no cut out grill in the bodywork below the main grill which means that it is not getting any direct air flow. Presumably this renders it pretty useless? Is that correct. 3. The routing of one of the hoses is such that it is lying over the top of the valve cover, which looks pretty ugly. Is it possible to install it so this isn't the case. cheers Derek www.healeysix.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Sep 18 05:22:21 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:22:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Cooler questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C94A0ED.7080801@chello.nl> The oil cooler can be an advantage if driving fast, in hot conditions or in heavy traffic, it does help cooling the engine although it is not as efficient as a coolant radiator. Don't worry to much if it is not in the direct air flow, air will pass through it anyhow. Rerouting the hose is a question of space and hose length, it should be possible to make a neat routing but you may have to get longer hoses. It is preferable to have a thermostat parallel to the oil cooler, it is usually in the oil filter adapter but can be retrofitted in the hoses. In my opinion it is an asset, so keep it. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Sep 18 05:49:25 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 05:49:25 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] freeze plugs In-Reply-To: References: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> Message-ID: ...not to drift to far afield from the question... I was wondering if the new Craftsman (Healey content- :~) ) electric hammer might not be a viable option for in situ installation. Anybody ever use one for automotive use and, having never laid eyes on one, wonder if they are adaptable for such..?? dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 10:18 PM To: Ed Woods Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] freeze plugs Note to self: If Ed every brings me a car for freeze plug replacement, do not offer to do it for free. In fact remember to charge EXTRA. On both the curved type and cupped type I have always coated the edge with Permatex either #1 or#2. JB Weld? ::: shudder::: No thanks. The following assumes you can access the soft plug hole and get at it, such as the engine is on a stand with no manifolds. In the car? Have fun. Better you than me. For a domed type FP one great large honkin hit with a good sized ball peen hammer will spread the FP enough to ensure a water tight seal. Cup type? Find a big assed socket that just fits inside the cup. Tap them in evenly until flush. Again coat with Permatex. In the car a thing called a freeze plug installer is damn near irreplaceable. Worth every penny. Freeze plug installer http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/atd-5270.html Hot rodder thread on freeze plugs http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-right-way-install-freeze-plugs-99101.ht ml Good luck, Rick On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Ed Woods wrote: > List, > > And what's the consensus on installing new core, a.k.a. freeze, plugs? > > I've been installing with any old sealant, then coating with J B Weld. > (just to start the discussion) > > I lost two plugs on the COB in 1990 and vowed to never let a plug spoil > another trip. > > The Other Ed _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 10:39:21 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 09:39:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] NOS 100 front Apron Message-ID: Listers, Time to clear out my extra stock. I have several NOS 100 front splash aprons, aluminum of course, and still in the dark (chocolate) brown primer. I got these in England many years ago. Contact me off list please. Cheers, Curt From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Sep 18 12:37:48 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 19:37:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] sleeved thermostats In-Reply-To: <4C94721D.306@chello.nl> References: <4C94721D.306@chello.nl> Message-ID: <000001cb5760$9870fe50$c952faf0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Kees, I fitted one, though not from you. Effect:- Gauge stays more or less at zero for about 5 minutes or a few miles then goes rapidly up to about 180 where it stays more or less regardless of conditions. Motorway stop-start chaos will get it up to 200ish but, touch wood, that's all and of course I usually tend to avoid those motorway conditions. My stat is an AC Delco TF1. Equivalent to the Smith's. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: 18 September 2010 09:03 To: 4 - Healeys Subject: [Healeys] sleeved thermostats Healey crowd, Some time ago I sold NOS sleeved thermostats to a fair number of list members. Out of technical curiosity I would like to hear if their fitment had any effect on the cooling. Up to now I had precious little feedback on the results, one exception being Steve Byers. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 12:55:45 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:55:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Carburetor Spacers Message-ID: Tadek, I've been corresponding with Kent lacy, Concours Committee 100M Guru, and Kent says that there was a 1/8" thick, asbestos type thin spacer, and then he uses a gasket on either side. This would have been the original Healey setup. Cheers, Curt From willig at wtnet.de Sat Sep 18 13:12:14 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:12:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Is this 100 head warped?? In-Reply-To: References: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> Message-ID: <000201cb5765$67a21520$36e63f60$@de> Hello, I was facing the typical problem of a blown head gasket since last week (overheating, emulsified engine oil), so I decided to remove the new DW alu head again. After cleaning the mating surface, I checked it with a straightedge. Between the second and the third cylinder there is a small gap under the straightedge were I can pass a 002 (0,05mm) feeler blade. Do you think that I should send the head away for surface grinding, or is this within tolerances? Regards Thomas Willig From wilkmanracing at aol.com Sat Sep 18 13:42:24 2010 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 15:42:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? Message-ID: <8CD2580C0CA8CD8-10FC-11D12@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com> I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out of its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't operate the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a bit too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to push the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? Bill Wilkman BT7. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Sep 18 14:02:40 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 22:02:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Is this 100 head warped?? In-Reply-To: <000201cb5765$67a21520$36e63f60$@de> References: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> <000201cb5765$67a21520$36e63f60$@de> Message-ID: <4C951AE0.1070501@chello.nl> That small gap should not be any problem at all. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Sep 18 14:13:46 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 22:13:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] sleeved thermostats In-Reply-To: <000001cb5760$9870fe50$c952faf0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <4C94721D.306@chello.nl> <000001cb5760$9870fe50$c952faf0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <4C951D7A.8030001@chello.nl> Thanks for the response Simon. This is more or less the behavior I would expect, although I would have thought that the operating temperature would be a tad lower, around 170:F. I presume you have not fitted an electric fan controlled by a thermo-switch. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Sep 18 14:37:43 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 16:37:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? In-Reply-To: <8CD2580C0CA8CD8-10FC-11D12@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2580C0CA8CD8-10FC-11D12@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <027101cb5771$58fc45c0$0af4d140$@verizon.net> Was the OD engaged when you backed out??? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 3:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out of its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't operate the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a bit too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to push the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? Bill Wilkman BT7. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Sep 18 14:38:36 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 14:38:36 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Is this 100 head warped?? In-Reply-To: <000201cb5765$67a21520$36e63f60$@de> References: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> <000201cb5765$67a21520$36e63f60$@de> Message-ID: <5240BF536C3140E1863043FE9C2425B9@oscar> .002in should be no problem for a gasket to overcome. Where did the gasket fail? Was it where you notice the low spot? Which side, if you can tell, head or deck? dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of T+ B Willig Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 1:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Is this 100 head warped?? Hello, I was facing the typical problem of a blown head gasket since last week (overheating, emulsified engine oil), so I decided to remove the new DW alu head again. After cleaning the mating surface, I checked it with a straightedge. Between the second and the third cylinder there is a small gap under the straightedge were I can pass a 002 (0,05mm) feeler blade. Do you think that I should send the head away for surface grinding, or is this within tolerances? Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From shop at justbrits.com Sat Sep 18 15:04:47 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 16:04:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Is this 100 head warped?? In-Reply-To: <000201cb5765$67a21520$36e63f60$@de> References: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> <000201cb5765$67a21520$36e63f60$@de> Message-ID: <4C95296F.6050806@justbrits.com> Tom, I'm with Dave !! << Where did the gasket fail? >> Tom, did you see anything on either side of gasket?? And is it where the 'gap' is ?? << Was it where you notice the low spot? >> And WHAT are you using for "straightedge" ?? Which side, if you can tell, head or deck? >> And did you check BOTH surfaces ?? Ed From bn2cars at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 15:42:12 2010 From: bn2cars at gmail.com (Donald Tate) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 17:42:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Accelerator Pedal Message-ID: Hello Listers I'm restoring a BN2 and the footboxes were replaced buy a shop. Unfortunatley, I don't have the old ones to reference so I need your help. Does the rod attached to the accelerator pedal simply go thru a hole in the side of the footbox? Seems a bit crude even by LBC standards. One chance to get it right so thanks in advance for your input. Don Tate From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Sep 18 15:57:52 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 23:57:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes Message-ID: <6653C6BDD7F04872823D77C55C8125B1@tm> Has anyone experienced the following problem on the front brakes Once the brake shoes are adjusted to be parallel to the drum with the steady post, the pin which should rest against the cam adjuster is too short and the cam adjuster just does not put the shoe close to the drum. The result of this is that to brake, you have to push the pedal twice in order to pump up the cylinders.. The question is: do I have the shoes with pins that are too short or am I doing something wrong?... Best, Tadek From waschu2 at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 17:28:17 2010 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 19:28:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak Message-ID: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> Hi everyone, My friend shipped his 62 3000 Healey back from England recently and has it at my house to look at some damage done while loading it into the container. The damage seems to be limited to the stainless muffler being cracked and flattened and damage to the rear shroud lip and trunk floor. The perplexing part is that the car is now leaving dinner plate size oil leaks after a short drive. The leak is from the bell housing drain hole and the seam between the bell housing and the engine back plate. The gearbox oil is very clean and the engine oil is pretty dirty as is the oil leaking on the floor, so I suspect the leak is from the engine. The oil pan is clean and dry with no leaks noted. Anyone have any ideas what shipping the car in a container might have to do with this leak? The car was used in England daily and never had any leaks and now the very first drive after shipping it back to the US it had this severe leak. I checked the engine breather and it is clear. Regards Wayne From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Sep 18 17:41:02 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 17:41:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak In-Reply-To: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> References: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> Message-ID: <32A41DEA74B04C48B24BD7266B57D481@oscar> That's a wild one.. If the container was tipped excessively front to rear it might have leaked from a front or rear seal when stationary, but you say it occurs after driving which would leave one to conclude that the rear main "seal" was the culprit. Is the crankcase overly full? You say the rear shroud bottom edge is damaged and the muffler split which would make me think the car was dropped from some height. Carefully inspect the rear axle and differential for impact damage and for torn motor mounts. It's a long shot, but there is enough mass at the end of the crankshaft to bend the crank if dropped with sufficient force. Just another WAG from dave.. Can't wait to hear about this one.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Schultz Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 5:28 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] oil leak Hi everyone, My friend shipped his 62 3000 Healey back from England recently and has it at my house to look at some damage done while loading it into the container. The damage seems to be limited to the stainless muffler being cracked and flattened and damage to the rear shroud lip and trunk floor. The perplexing part is that the car is now leaving dinner plate size oil leaks after a short drive. The leak is from the bell housing drain hole and the seam between the bell housing and the engine back plate. The gearbox oil is very clean and the engine oil is pretty dirty as is the oil leaking on the floor, so I suspect the leak is from the engine. The oil pan is clean and dry with no leaks noted. Anyone have any ideas what shipping the car in a container might have to do with this leak? The car was used in England daily and never had any leaks and now the very first drive after shipping it back to the US it had this severe leak. I checked the engine breather and it is clear. Regards Wayne _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 18:18:12 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 17:18:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] PPG paint code Message-ID: Rich was nice enough to send me non PPG paint codes for Healey blue, but I need either a conversion web site or the PPG code for the color for my BT 7 1960 From geatros at shaw.ca Sat Sep 18 18:24:43 2010 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 17:24:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak In-Reply-To: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> References: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2A90186F-DF35-4930-AA8B-1D48EDDD022F@shaw.ca> Hi Wayne, I think that Dave could be correct regarding the Container the Healey was shipped in could have been dropped .... it Happens . I work on the Vancouver docks and have seen Containers drop when a Crane, Dock Gantry , Top Pick, TRG , has had a problem when loading or unloading a Container. If the crank was bent I think you could feel it when the car is driven ??? I'd bet the damage happened when the car was driven into the container..... Cheers Kenny Vancouver BC Factory 100M BN2 BJ8 BJ8 BN6 On 18-Sep-10, at 4:28 PM, Wayne Schultz wrote: > Hi everyone, > > My friend shipped his 62 3000 Healey back > from England recently and has it at my house to look at some damage > done while loading it into the container. The damage seems to be > limited to the stainless muffler being cracked and flattened and > damage to the rear shroud lip and trunk floor. The perplexing part > is that the car is now leaving dinner plate size oil leaks after a > short drive. The leak is from the bell housing drain hole and the > seam between the bell housing and the engine back plate. The > gearbox oil is very clean and the engine oil is pretty dirty as is > the oil leaking on the floor, so I suspect the leak is from the > engine. The oil pan is clean and dry with no leaks noted. Anyone > have any ideas what shipping the car in a container might have to > do with this leak? The car was used in England daily and never had > any leaks and now the very first drive after shipping it back to > the US it had this severe leak. I checked the engine breather and > it is clear. > > > Regards > > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > geatros at shaw.ca From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 18:32:49 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 17:32:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] PPG paint code In-Reply-To: <4C9559BD.3050300@justbrits.com> References: <4C9559BD.3050300@justbrits.com> Message-ID: The site like the pain shop is not helpful. That is why I'm asking the list On Sep 18, 2010 5:30 PM, "Shop at " Just Brits wrote: << but I need either a conversion web site or the PPG code for the color for my BT 7 1960 >> No Ira, what you NEED is a GOOD autobody/paint supply store !!! OR a friendly body shop. Me PS: Try the PPG site. From Editorgary at aol.com Sat Sep 18 18:33:47 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 20:33:47 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Munched overdrive Message-ID: In a message dated 9/18/10 5:19:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out > of > its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't > operate > the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a > bit > too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to > push > the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under > power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? > > Bill Wilkman > BT7. > I hate to be the bearer of really, really bad tidings, but... >From personal experience, you have definitely lunched your overdrive. Somehow, you managed to have the car still in overdrive and it didn't have time to drop out of overdrive when you placed it in reverse and released the clutch. I'm afraid your winter will consist of pulling the engine and overdrive, and finding a replacement overdrive or someone who has a set of planetary overdrive gears, because when you open your overdrive, you're going to find a major handful of metal shards where a gearset used to be. Gary From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 18:36:30 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 17:36:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Munched overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Why pull the engine too? The clutch comes out on its own.... On Sep 18, 2010 5:34 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 9/18/10 5:19:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> >> I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out >> of >> its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't >> operate >> the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a >> bit >> too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to >> push >> the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under >> power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? >> >> Bill Wilkman >> BT7. >> > I hate to be the bearer of really, really bad tidings, but... >>From personal experience, you have definitely lunched your overdrive. > Somehow, you managed to have the car still in overdrive and it didn't have > time > to drop out of overdrive when you placed it in reverse and released the > clutch. I'm afraid your winter will consist of pulling the engine and > overdrive, and finding a replacement overdrive or someone who has a set of > planetary > overdrive gears, because when you open your overdrive, you're going to find > a major handful of metal shards where a gearset used to be. > > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Sat Sep 18 18:41:47 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 19:41:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak In-Reply-To: <32A41DEA74B04C48B24BD7266B57D481@oscar> References: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> <32A41DEA74B04C48B24BD7266B57D481@oscar> Message-ID: <4C955C4B.2090609@justbrits.com> << It's a long shot, but there is enough mass at the end of the crankshaft to bend the crank if dropped with sufficient force. Just another WAG from dave.. >> LOL, Dave !! Did give me a thought tho. Considering how 'nuts' this is and agreeing about container being dropped, would it be possible that the rear end of the crank 'bounced' up & down damaging what little 'seal' they have anyway ?? I'm thinking that the car BOUNCED !! Well, it doesn't end there !! It would 'bounce' UP [1st re-bound] then RE_BOUNCED and then 'bounce up' [2nd re-bound], etc., etc. !?!?!? I guess it really would be a severe 'shock', re-shock', etc.?? And if the motor was not 'fresh' and the crank was in "just" the right position.............................?!?!!? Can I now say "just another WAG from _ _ _ _" ???? !!! ME From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 18:45:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 08:45:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak In-Reply-To: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> References: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> Message-ID: Remind him that all damages here will be covered by Marine Insurance. Hopefully you got it from Hagerty, they provide this service... On 9/19/10, Wayne Schultz wrote: > Hi everyone, > > My friend shipped his 62 3000 Healey back > from England recently and has it at my house to look at some damage done > while loading it into the container. The damage seems to be limited to > the stainless muffler being cracked and flattened and damage to the rear > shroud lip and trunk floor. The perplexing part is that the car is now > leaving dinner plate size oil leaks after a short drive. The leak is > from the bell housing drain hole and the seam between the bell housing > and the engine back plate. The gearbox oil is very clean and the engine > oil is pretty dirty as is the oil leaking on the floor, so I suspect the > leak is from the engine. The oil pan is clean and dry with no leaks > noted. Anyone have any ideas what shipping the car in a container might > have to do with this leak? The car was used in England daily and never > had any leaks and now the very first drive after shipping it back to the > US it had this severe leak. I checked the engine breather and it is clear. > > > Regards > > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From Editorgary at aol.com Sat Sep 18 19:02:21 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:02:21 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healey Blue Message-ID: In a message dated 9/18/10 5:19:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Rich was nice enough to send me non PPG paint codes for Healey blue, but > I > need either a conversion web site or the PPG code for the color for my BT > 7 > 1960 > Just for the heck of it, when you're talking to your paint supplier, ask them to check to see if they have the codes for metallic light blue as used by Mercedes-Benz in the early 1960s -- say for a 230SL. It's worth looking at. It isn't 100 percent, but a very attractive shade of color very close to ice blue metallic with just a tad more purple and less green (essentially more magenta and less yellow in the mixture). I've had that color on my car since 1991, and just discovered a few weeks ago that it's identical to the Mercedes color used during the period. The clue was when I found the can of left-over paint in my garage, and written in magic marker on the can were the words "Mercedes Blue" -- so I checked out an original M-B roadster from the same period. Sure enough... Nice color, and pretty easy to find at restoration specialist paint shops. Gary From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Sep 18 19:32:05 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 19:32:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak In-Reply-To: <2A90186F-DF35-4930-AA8B-1D48EDDD022F@shaw.ca> References: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> <2A90186F-DF35-4930-AA8B-1D48EDDD022F@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <9214C6095F7B4FF5BBE636254339C733@oscar> Another thought.. if the fuel pump was left on during the trip, it's possible that the oil could be sufficiently thinned to easily leak past the seal and could explode if it is the case... does the "clean" oil smell of petrol? dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ Hi Wayne, I think that Dave could be correct regarding the Container the Healey was shipped in could have been dropped .... it Happens . I work on the Vancouver docks and have seen Containers drop when a Crane, Dock Gantry , Top Pick, TRG , has had a problem when loading or unloading a Container. If the crank was bent I think you could feel it when the car is driven ??? I'd bet the damage happened when the car was driven into the container..... Cheers Kenny Vancouver BC Factory 100M BN2 BJ8 BJ8 BN6 From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 18 19:38:49 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 01:38:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Accelerator Pedal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1561961364.1601148.1284860329618.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: " Does the rod attached to the accelerator pedal simply go thru a hole in the side of the footbox?" Yes. The bottom edge of the bracket for the the accelerator pedal on our BN2's original footbox is located 1&5/8" up from the bend where the floor pan meets the front of the footwell box. The right side of the bracket is approx. 1/4" in from the transmission-side wall of the footwell box (left-hand drive car). The bracket has three holes in a triangular pattern--two go on top and one on the bottom (the bracket is more or less level with the floor pan). The three screws are #10-32 oval head--half-inch or so--and simply go through the footbox and are secured with nuts and lockwashers on the engine side of the footbox. The cutout on the side of the footwell box is U-shaped, approximately the same profile as the 'hump' on the accelerator bracket. The pedal shaft is clamped to a lever that is connected to the rest of Rube Goldberg's throttle linkage design. The heat shields that were previously available were not near correct--supposedly, Moss Motors and a well-known Healey expert undertook a project to produce exactly correct heat shields. I believe they come with hardware. You might want to buy the heat shield set and note where the hole is cut for the pedal shaft. Cheers, Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Hello Listers I'm restoring a BN2 and the footboxes were replaced buy a shop. Unfortunatley, I don't have the old ones to reference so I need your help. Does the rod attached to the accelerator pedal simply go thru a hole in the side of the footbox? Seems a bit crude even by LBC standards. One chance to get it right so thanks in advance for your input. Don Tate From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 18 19:52:19 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 18:52:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Munched overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <973979.4408.qm@web110311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> 5 speed may be the way to go ________________________________ From: I Erbs To: Editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 18, 2010 8:36:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Munched overdrive Why pull the engine too? The clutch comes out on its own.... On Sep 18, 2010 5:34 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 9/18/10 5:19:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> >> I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out >> of >> its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't >> operate >> the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a >> bit >> too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to >> push >> the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under >> power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? >> >> Bill Wilkman >> BT7. >> > I hate to be the bearer of really, really bad tidings, but... >>From personal experience, you have definitely lunched your overdrive. > Somehow, you managed to have the car still in overdrive and it didn't have > time > to drop out of overdrive when you placed it in reverse and released the > clutch. I'm afraid your winter will consist of pulling the engine and > overdrive, and finding a replacement overdrive or someone who has a set of > planetary > overdrive gears, because when you open your overdrive, you're going to find > a major handful of metal shards where a gearset used to be. > > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rdryman1 at yahoo.com From wilkmanracing at aol.com Sat Sep 18 20:27:37 2010 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 22:27:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? In-Reply-To: <027101cb5771$58fc45c0$0af4d140$@verizon.net> References: <8CD2580C0CA8CD8-10FC-11D12@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com> <027101cb5771$58fc45c0$0af4d140$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <8CD25B95C492118-1A44-15AD9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com> I wasn't able to operate it by the switch on the dash, so I think it may have been stuck in overdrive. Bill -----Original Message----- From: John Sims To: wilkmanracing at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 1:37 pm Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? Was the OD engaged when you backed out??? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 3:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out of its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't operate the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a bit too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to push the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? Bill Wilkman BT7. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From gmandas at yahoo.com Sat Sep 18 20:43:32 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 19:43:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? Message-ID: <606389.32600.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> How does one know if the OD is stuck and is there a way to get it unstick? Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 18, 2010, at 8:27 PM, wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote: I wasn't able to operate it by the switch on the dash, so I think it may have been stuck in overdrive. Bill -----Original Message----- From: John Sims To: wilkmanracing at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 1:37 pm Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? Was the OD engaged when you backed out??? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 3:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out of its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't operate the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a bit too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to push the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? Bill Wilkman BT7. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 20:49:49 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:49:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? In-Reply-To: <8CD25B95C492118-1A44-15AD9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2580C0CA8CD8-10FC-11D12@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com> <027101cb5771$58fc45c0$0af4d140$@verizon.net> <8CD25B95C492118-1A44-15AD9@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Oh boy. Time to take it out... On 9/19/10, wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote: > I wasn't able to operate it by the switch on the dash, so I think it may > have > been stuck in overdrive. > > Bill > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Sims > To: wilkmanracing at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 1:37 pm > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? > > > Was the OD engaged when you backed out??? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com > Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 3:42 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? > > I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out > of its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't > operate the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the > car a bit too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I > tried to push the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed > it up under power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? > > Bill Wilkman > BT7. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Sep 18 21:02:26 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 23:02:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak In-Reply-To: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> References: <4C954B11.5080703@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CD25BE392BFC06-1968-1672E@webmail-d022.sysops.aol.com> Wayne I re-read your post a couple times and although I understand the apparent source of the oil, make sure the oil pressure gauge hose on the side of the block is not leaking. I have chased that one previously. I would also verify that the oil level in the pan is correct, just in case someone got carried away adding oil. Since we ship cars often via containers here in Hawaii, the standard paperwork states that the car must have 6 inches of ground clearance to load. I have had them refuse to load a car before with out paying a special handling charge. Not all teamsters are careful with our LBC's and scrapping of mufflers is fairly common. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Schultz To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 1:28 pm Subject: [Healeys] oil leak Hi everyone,B B B My friend shipped his 62 3000 Healey back from England recently and has it at my house to look at some damage done while loading it into the container. The damage seems to be limited to the stainless muffler being cracked and flattened and damage to the rear shroud lip and trunk floor. The perplexing part is that the car is now leaving dinner plate size oil leaks after a short drive. The leak is from the bell housing drain hole and the seam between the bell housing and the engine back plate. The gearbox oil is very clean and the engine oil is pretty dirty as is the oil leaking on the floor, so I suspect the leak is from the engine. The oil pan is clean and dry with no leaks noted. Anyone have any ideas what shipping the car in a container might have to do with this leak? The car was used in England daily and never had any leaks and now the very first drive after shipping it back to the US it had this severe leak. I checked the engine breather and it is clear.B B B RegardsB B WayneB _______________________________________________B Healeys at autox.team.netB Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlB Suggested annual donation $12.75B Archive: http://www.team.net/archiveB Forums: http://www.team.net/forumsB Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.comB From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sat Sep 18 21:03:19 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 03:03:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?o/d_damage?= Message-ID: <20100919030319.4515.qmail@server278.com> when i backed up in with o/d engaged many years ago, it actually cracked the case in half and parts fell out on the ground. not a good feeling. hjim From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Sep 18 21:21:18 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:21:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? In-Reply-To: <606389.32600.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <606389.32600.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If you can't get it to go in and out of overdrive, (ie drive on the open road and select overdrive, but it doesn't go in and out) then it may already be stuck in overdrive. If so - jack the car up & support it correctly. Get your knockoff hammer, and get underneath. Hit the steel plate in the centre area of the alloy overdrive body a few times with your knockoff hammer. Sharp raps rather than belting - you can't get a big swing anyway, and you don't need one. Now take it down, and go for a drive & see if you can select overdrive now. Once its out of overdrive. The overdrive springs sometimes get stuck - its the springs that release it. Try it Bill. Maybe it isn't mashed. At least try to release overdrive clutch before you pull it. Good luck Best Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 19/09/2010, at 12:43 PM, Greg Mandas wrote: > How does one know if the OD is stuck and is there a way to get it > unstick? > > Greg > 65BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. > > > On Sep 18, 2010, at 8:27 PM, wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote: > > I wasn't able to operate it by the switch on the dash, so I think it > may have > been stuck in overdrive. From Editorgary at aol.com Sat Sep 18 22:09:07 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 00:09:07 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Munched overdrive Message-ID: Now that's not a bad idea if originality isn't as important as cost, reliability, and driving performance. Gary From Editorgary at aol.com Sat Sep 18 22:17:08 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 00:17:08 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Oil Leak Message-ID: The behavior you describe: significant leak of engine oil from the tranny bell housing, is consistent with a badly damaged rear opening where the crankshaft exits the engine block/sump (there's no seal back there; it depends on a few thou' tolerance and an archimedes screw to keep the oil in the sump. I'm betting there's oil everywhere the car's been driven. Strongly suggest your friend report the damage to the shipper and his insurance company immediately, then have a reputable shop look at it -- probably have to pull the tranny to check out the crank opening, but with the other damages, sounds as if the car could have fallen when the loading ramps collapsed while the car was being loaded (don't ask me why I can visualize this scene.). You could be looking at significant expense to get a real oil seal installed in the rear of the engine, plus checking the crank to make sure it's still straight -- and the bearings are still in alignment. Might be a good time to think about an engine rebuild if the car's got lots of miles and the insurance company is willing to come through on the amount of damage that likely was done. Gary From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sun Sep 19 00:23:57 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 08:23:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <027201cb5787$a528b120$ef7a1360$@verizon.net> Message-ID: No, I am sure. The problem appears when the shoes are properly aligned to the drum with the steady pin. Once they are pushed out to sit parallel to the drum they are off the cam adjuster. In order to test drive the car I unscrewd the steady posts so the shoe sits on the cam and can finally brake. I have to fix it later. The worst bit is, that the problem appears as if there was air in the system. You pump the pedal 2ce and it works properly for 2 minutes. Than it looks again as if there is air... I do presume there were different shoe manufacturers and I do not have the best ones.. Once I take it off, I will post the measurements of the pins. Tadek -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 1:17 AM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz' Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 front brakes Are you sure that you just do not have an air bubble? Pumping the brakes is usually a sign of air in the lines. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 5:58 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes Has anyone experienced the following problem on the front brakes Once the brake shoes are adjusted to be parallel to the drum with the steady post, the pin which should rest against the cam adjuster is too short and the cam adjuster just does not put the shoe close to the drum. The result of this is that to brake, you have to push the pedal twice in order to pump up the cylinders.. The question is: do I have the shoes with pins that are too short or am I doing something wrong?... Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Sun Sep 19 00:55:17 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 07:55:17 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: References: <027201cb5787$a528b120$ef7a1360$@verizon.net> Message-ID: Tadek I think that you are on the right track. That is, the pins in the shoes are too short. The shoes that fit a BN2 are supposedly the same as those fitted to vans etc. Including an early London Taxi. They are not (were not) in short supply and are often cheaper than having existing shoes relined. Originally these shoes were handed and had the pin fitted on one side. The ones I fitted just a few years ago (Unipart) had pins on both sides and could be fitted either side of the car. Perhaps the manufacturers of new shoes have tried to make a single product fit too many vehicles and have ended up with a post length that is too short for a BN2. I assume that you have not replaced the cams with a repair kit? Where did the shoes come from? Regards >No, I am sure. The problem appears when the shoes are properly aligned to >the drum with the steady pin. Once they are pushed out to sit parallel to >the drum they are off the cam adjuster. > >In order to test drive the car I unscrewd the steady posts so the shoe sits >on the cam and can finally brake. I have to fix it later. > >The worst bit is, that the problem appears as if there was air in the >system. You pump the pedal 2ce and it works properly for 2 minutes. Than it >looks again as if there is air... > >I do presume there were different shoe manufacturers and I do not have the >best ones.. > >Once I take it off, I will post the measurements of the pins. > >Tadek -- John Harper From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sun Sep 19 02:04:46 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:04:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: John, The shoes were on the car, so source unknown :-) They were glued though not riveted. The pins on the shoes are 2 sided, so they must be aftermarket Do you know how long the pin is supposed to be? I am mailing this experience to the list, as this problem is very difficult (at least for me was) to trace. It looks like air in the system, but is a mechanical problem.. Best Regards, tadek -----Original Message----- From: John Harper [mailto:ah at jharper.demon.co.uk] Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 8:55 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: 'John Sims'; cbaustin at verizon.net; 'Dave Porter'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes Tadek I think that you are on the right track. That is, the pins in the shoes are too short. The shoes that fit a BN2 are supposedly the same as those fitted to vans etc. Including an early London Taxi. They are not (were not) in short supply and are often cheaper than having existing shoes relined. Originally these shoes were handed and had the pin fitted on one side. The ones I fitted just a few years ago (Unipart) had pins on both sides and could be fitted either side of the car. Perhaps the manufacturers of new shoes have tried to make a single product fit too many vehicles and have ended up with a post length that is too short for a BN2. I assume that you have not replaced the cams with a repair kit? Where did the shoes come from? Regards >No, I am sure. The problem appears when the shoes are properly aligned to >the drum with the steady pin. Once they are pushed out to sit parallel to >the drum they are off the cam adjuster. > >In order to test drive the car I unscrewd the steady posts so the shoe sits >on the cam and can finally brake. I have to fix it later. > >The worst bit is, that the problem appears as if there was air in the >system. You pump the pedal 2ce and it works properly for 2 minutes. Than it >looks again as if there is air... > >I do presume there were different shoe manufacturers and I do not have the >best ones.. > >Once I take it off, I will post the measurements of the pins. > >Tadek -- John Harper From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Sep 19 02:58:51 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:58:51 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 100 front brakes Message-ID: Resent - forgot to edit! -------------------------------------------------- From: "Peter & Veronica" Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 6:01 PM To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes > G'day Tadek > > I had a similar problem with replacement shoes on one of my Landrovers. > There seem to be several similar but not quite identical shoe cores. I got > round it by extending the pegs with a short length of tight-fitting pipe. > In this case, this also helped adjustment as otherwise the snail cam > adjusters were able to go right round. > > I can tell you from bitter experience that getting the shoes adjusted as > close as possible to the drums is vital to getting a good pedal. A very > small amount of extra clearance at the shoe/drum interface makes a > proportionately much larger difference at the pedal (my own BN1 and a > friend's have given us many hours of frustration because of this) Also > make sure that the pedal can return fully (is the diamond-shaped > indentation in the footwell there?) This also makes an awful lot of > difference. > > Cheers > > Peter > Brisbane Oz > > BN1 Ward Spl coupe > BN1 Holden V6 From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Sep 19 04:47:48 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 11:47:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Munched overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000801cb57e8$1a0ba0f0$4e22e2d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Bill, Agreed. Been there, done it, wrecked it. God knows how; the reverse cut-out switch was working fine. (I think that, if it's a leap year and you're standing on one leg and all your camels are looking north, you can somehow get the thing into reverse even if the switch is apparently working.) You may need a new main shaft as well. The end can get chewed up in the meltdown process. Mine was so bad that I couldn't separate my od from the gearbox. I kept thinking I was doing something wrong/had missed the point somewhere. In the end, it took two big chaps and a lot of brute force to separate them. (When it comes to "brute force and ignorance", I'm better at the latter.) Over here the cheapest option is go to a specialist and swap your case full of shrapnel for a new/rebuilt unit. You might think of going to a 28% instead of the standard 22% which is one tiny ray of sunshine in the whole wretched affair. I do, most sincerely, hope that I'm wrong and that you find a quick, cheap and easy fix. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com Sent: 19 September 2010 01:34 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Munched overdrive In a message dated 9/18/10 5:19:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out > of > its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't > operate > the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a > bit > too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to > push > the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under > power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? > > Bill Wilkman > BT7. > I hate to be the bearer of really, really bad tidings, but... >From personal experience, you have definitely lunched your overdrive. Somehow, you managed to have the car still in overdrive and it didn't have time to drop out of overdrive when you placed it in reverse and released the clutch. I'm afraid your winter will consist of pulling the engine and overdrive, and finding a replacement overdrive or someone who has a set of planetary overdrive gears, because when you open your overdrive, you're going to find a major handful of metal shards where a gearset used to be. Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Sep 19 06:58:58 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 06:58:58 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tad, ...and because the Healey has dual wheel cylinders, which allow both ends of the shoe to "expand" it becomes necessary to have a trailing and leading edge. So if you are using dual sided post shoes-then consult the workshop manual for directional installation. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 2:05 AM To: 'John Harper' Cc: 'John Sims'; cbaustin at verizon.net; 'Dave Porter'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 front brakes John, The shoes were on the car, so source unknown :-) They were glued though not riveted. The pins on the shoes are 2 sided, so they must be aftermarket Do you know how long the pin is supposed to be? I am mailing this experience to the list, as this problem is very difficult (at least for me was) to trace. It looks like air in the system, but is a mechanical problem.. Best Regards, tadek -----Original Message----- From: John Harper [mailto:ah at jharper.demon.co.uk] Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 8:55 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: 'John Sims'; cbaustin at verizon.net; 'Dave Porter'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes Tadek I think that you are on the right track. That is, the pins in the shoes are too short. The shoes that fit a BN2 are supposedly the same as those fitted to vans etc. Including an early London Taxi. They are not (were not) in short supply and are often cheaper than having existing shoes relined. Originally these shoes were handed and had the pin fitted on one side. The ones I fitted just a few years ago (Unipart) had pins on both sides and could be fitted either side of the car. Perhaps the manufacturers of new shoes have tried to make a single product fit too many vehicles and have ended up with a post length that is too short for a BN2. I assume that you have not replaced the cams with a repair kit? Where did the shoes come from? Regards >No, I am sure. The problem appears when the shoes are properly aligned to >the drum with the steady pin. Once they are pushed out to sit parallel to >the drum they are off the cam adjuster. > >In order to test drive the car I unscrewd the steady posts so the shoe sits >on the cam and can finally brake. I have to fix it later. > >The worst bit is, that the problem appears as if there was air in the >system. You pump the pedal 2ce and it works properly for 2 minutes. Than it >looks again as if there is air... > >I do presume there were different shoe manufacturers and I do not have the >best ones.. > >Once I take it off, I will post the measurements of the pins. > >Tadek -- John Harper From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 19 07:01:17 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 9:01:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Munched overdrive In-Reply-To: <973979.4408.qm@web110311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100919090118.02QM8.133647.root@pamxwww03-z01> That kinda takes away the heart of the Healey--IMO. ---- Richard Dryman wrote: ============= 5 speed may be the way to go ________________________________ From: I Erbs To: Editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 18, 2010 8:36:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Munched overdrive Why pull the engine too? The clutch comes out on its own.... On Sep 18, 2010 5:34 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 9/18/10 5:19:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> >> I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the car out >> of >> its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I couldn't >> operate >> the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the car a >> bit >> too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried to >> push >> the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up under >> power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? >> >> Bill Wilkman >> BT7. >> > I hate to be the bearer of really, really bad tidings, but... >>From personal experience, you have definitely lunched your overdrive. > Somehow, you managed to have the car still in overdrive and it didn't have > time > to drop out of overdrive when you placed it in reverse and released the > clutch. I'm afraid your winter will consist of pulling the engine and > overdrive, and finding a replacement overdrive or someone who has a set of > planetary > overdrive gears, because when you open your overdrive, you're going to find > a major handful of metal shards where a gearset used to be. > > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rdryman1 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 19 07:03:03 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 9:03:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] o/d damage In-Reply-To: <20100919030319.4515.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <20100919090303.R946R.133657.root@pamxwww03-z01> I've backed up several times in my BJ8 (not intentionally), with no ill effects----guess the system was functioning properly--thankfully. ---- healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: ============= when i backed up in with o/d engaged many years ago, it actually cracked the case in half and parts fell out on the ground. not a good feeling. hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 19 07:07:53 2010 From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 06:07:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] brakes Message-ID: <173798.73296.qm@web120120.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> does anyone have any knowledge with the 4 piston caliper set that moss is selling can it be bought somewhere else cheaper From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Sep 19 08:29:59 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 16:29:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brakes In-Reply-To: <173798.73296.qm@web120120.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <173798.73296.qm@web120120.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C961E67.6010803@chello.nl> Try Austin Princess/Ambassador (wedge). Often on ebay.co.uk. Might be worth investigating whether they fit. They are often used to modify/improve front brake systems, e.g. Ford Escort, DAF, Spridget, Spitfire, Jensen Healey. You can also get a spacer for them to allow wider ventilated discs. I would not be surprised if Moss is using these as a core. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From willig at wtnet.de Sun Sep 19 10:49:06 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:49:06 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Is this 100 head warped?? In-Reply-To: <5240BF536C3140E1863043FE9C2425B9@oscar> References: <20100917110422.47RH2.116830.imail@eastrmwml41> <000201cb5765$67a21520$36e63f60$@de> <5240BF536C3140E1863043FE9C2425B9@oscar> Message-ID: <003901cb581a$931daa60$b958ff20$@de> Hi, I just returned from the garage. I have replaced the head with a new head gasket. The block was perfectly level. The straightedge I used is a high quality tool not a ruler as some listers might have thought. I run the engine until the oil reached 80 deg Celsius and then shut it of. No overheating -just fine. Tomorrow I will retorque the head. Thanks for all the advises given. Thomas -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 22:39 An: 'T+ B Willig'; healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Is this 100 head warped?? .002in should be no problem for a gasket to overcome. Where did the gasket fail? Was it where you notice the low spot? Which side, if you can tell, head or deck? dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of T+ B Willig Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 1:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Is this 100 head warped?? Hello, I was facing the typical problem of a blown head gasket since last week (overheating, emulsified engine oil), so I decided to remove the new DW alu head again. After cleaning the mating surface, I checked it with a straightedge. Between the second and the third cylinder there is a small gap under the straightedge were I can pass a 002 (0,05mm) feeler blade. Do you think that I should send the head away for surface grinding, or is this within tolerances? Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Sep 19 12:01:58 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 14:01:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shock links In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100917160930.02000d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100917160930.02000d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C965016.5090402@earthlink.net> Apple Hydraulics john spaur wrote: > Does anyone know who can install new rubber into the original shock > links? The new Moss links are not "as original". > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sun Sep 19 12:10:54 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 20:10:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <6A5310E26BBC46C680E6CCCEDB108082@tm> Does anyone have original pair of shoes to measure the pin for the cam? Mine looks like it's 1/2". It seems it's 2-4mm too short. Best, Tadek From ynotink at msn.com Sun Sep 19 12:42:33 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:42:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Tadek, I'm not sure if the double leading edge design is as sensitive to it as the 10 inch brakes on the short wheelbase Land Rovers, but if the drums are worn or cut beyond the maximum diameter you will experience the same symptoms. Bill Lawrence > From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl > To: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk > Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:04:46 +0200 > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes > > John, > > The shoes were on the car, so source unknown :-) They were glued though not > riveted. The pins on the shoes are 2 sided, so they must be aftermarket > > > Do you know how long the pin is supposed to be? > > I am mailing this experience to the list, as this problem is very difficult > (at least for me was) to trace. It looks like air in the system, but is a > mechanical problem.. > > Best Regards, > > tadek > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Harper [mailto:ah at jharper.demon.co.uk] > Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 8:55 AM > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Cc: 'John Sims'; cbaustin at verizon.net; 'Dave Porter'; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes > > > Tadek > > I think that you are on the right track. That is, the pins in the shoes > are too short. The shoes that fit a BN2 are supposedly the same as those > fitted to vans etc. Including an early London Taxi. They are not (were > not) in short supply and are often cheaper than having existing shoes > relined. Originally these shoes were handed and had the pin fitted on > one side. The ones I fitted just a few years ago (Unipart) had pins on > both sides and could be fitted either side of the car. > > Perhaps the manufacturers of new shoes have tried to make a single > product fit too many vehicles and have ended up with a post length that > is too short for a BN2. > > I assume that you have not replaced the cams with a repair kit? > > Where did the shoes come from? > > Regards > >No, I am sure. The problem appears when the shoes are properly aligned to > >the drum with the steady pin. Once they are pushed out to sit parallel to > >the drum they are off the cam adjuster. > > > >In order to test drive the car I unscrewd the steady posts so the shoe sits > >on the cam and can finally brake. I have to fix it later. > > > >The worst bit is, that the problem appears as if there was air in the > >system. You pump the pedal 2ce and it works properly for 2 minutes. Than it > >looks again as if there is air... > > > >I do presume there were different shoe manufacturers and I do not have the > >best ones.. > > > >Once I take it off, I will post the measurements of the pins. > > > >Tadek > > -- > John Harper > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From buhler at memphisassociates.com Sun Sep 19 13:41:32 2010 From: buhler at memphisassociates.com (Jon Buhler) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 15:41:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Backfiring Message-ID: <8ded18017bba4602899a4c356006f2fa@memphisassociates.com> Fellows, your thoughts please. Backfiring under acceleration. Have checked all of the usual problems, carbs, fuel pump, plugs, distributor, timing, etc. If it is due to a vaccuum lieak, what is the best way to check for this? Thanks, Jon From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 19 14:05:53 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 16:05:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Backfiring In-Reply-To: <8ded18017bba4602899a4c356006f2fa@memphisassociates.com> Message-ID: <20100919160553.OINT8.251914.root@pamxwww04-z01> Did you check the resistance in your spark plug wires and ends? ---- Jon Buhler wrote: ============= Fellows, your thoughts please. Backfiring under acceleration. Have checked all of the usual problems, carbs, fuel pump, plugs, distributor, timing, etc. If it is due to a vaccuum lieak, what is the best way to check for this? Thanks, Jon _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Sep 19 14:11:56 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 06:11:56 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] brakes In-Reply-To: <4C961E67.6010803@chello.nl> References: <173798.73296.qm@web120120.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <4C961E67.6010803@chello.nl> Message-ID: <398CF157BD334C3990E793DA3CDDFFDA@Notebook> G'day Kees A friend here has put those calipers on a 3000 - He had to make brackets for them, and I do recall he had some problems finding kits for them. Got them from here in the end: http://www.biggred.co.uk/ Cheers Peter -------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:29 AM To: "Ralph Cap" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] brakes > Try Austin Princess/Ambassador (wedge). Often on ebay.co.uk. Might be > worth investigating whether they fit. They are often used to > modify/improve front brake systems, e.g. Ford Escort, DAF, Spridget, > Spitfire, Jensen Healey. You can also get a spacer for them to allow > wider ventilated discs. > I would not be surprised if Moss is using these as a core. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au From wilkmanracing at aol.com Sun Sep 19 14:15:26 2010 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 16:15:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) Message-ID: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> Thanks to everyone who has offered wisdom, advice, help, etc. regarding my "Munched Overdrive" post. I am going to try the hammer tap suggestion and I do plan to drain the O/D to see what comes out. If it's munched, I need to decide whether to have it fixed or to go the Toyota 5-speed route. I do have one other question for the group. When I had my trans and OD rebuilt about 10 years ago, the rebuilder told me to make sure the OD is disengaged before the car is parked. I believe he also mentioned that I should not back the car up if I forget to do this, as it could destroy the OD. My question is this: Why would something as simple as leaving an OD engaged cause such havoc. I'm pretty mechanically wise, but I'm sure a lot of Healey owners in the past have been just plain drivers with no real mechanical knowledge. Someone like my wife would never even think about disengaging the overdrive after every freeway run. Isn't this a serious design flaw that such a simple lapse would lead to such a mechanical disaster? Bill Wilkman From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 14:21:47 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:21:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Backfiring In-Reply-To: <8ded18017bba4602899a4c356006f2fa@memphisassociates.com> References: <8ded18017bba4602899a4c356006f2fa@memphisassociates.com> Message-ID: Still sounds like a timing issue On Sep 19, 2010 12:47 PM, "Jon Buhler" wrote: > Fellows, your thoughts please. Backfiring under acceleration. Have checked > all of the usual problems, carbs, fuel pump, plugs, distributor, timing, etc. > If it is due to a vaccuum lieak, what is the best way to check for this? > Thanks, > > Jon > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Sep 19 14:36:30 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:36:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Converting Center Shift to Side Shift Message-ID: For those who are interested in converting to a side shift here are some photos from a bus we rode in Mexico. You will notice how the shift is moved to the side, but apparently the downside is that it requires about 30 inches to move from first gear to second. When in second gear the knob is behind the shoulder of the driver) In a Healey this could be the back seat. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Sep 19 15:50:59 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 15:50:59 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) In-Reply-To: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <363F82527F744A019A5E7F78F7B25FC0@oscar> The mechanic was wrong. If the engine is shut down there is no pressure to keep the O/D "engaged" for long, it bleeds off pretty rapidly. It's also necessary to have the solenoid powered to keep the operating valve open. The reverse switch is another animal altogether, as it keeps power from going to the solenoid when reverse is purposely selected. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 2:15 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) Thanks to everyone who has offered wisdom, advice, help, etc. regarding my "Munched Overdrive" post. I am going to try the hammer tap suggestion and I do plan to drain the O/D to see what comes out. If it's munched, I need to decide whether to have it fixed or to go the Toyota 5-speed route. I do have one other question for the group. When I had my trans and OD rebuilt about 10 years ago, the rebuilder told me to make sure the OD is disengaged before the car is parked. I believe he also mentioned that I should not back the car up if I forget to do this, as it could destroy the OD. My question is this: Why would something as simple as leaving an OD engaged cause such havoc. I'm pretty mechanically wise, but I'm sure a lot of Healey owners in the past have been just plain drivers with no real mechanical knowledge. Someone like my wife would never even think about disengaging the overdrive after every freeway run. Isn't this a serious design flaw that such a simple lapse would lead to such a mechanical disaster? Bill Wilkman _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 16:15:08 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 06:15:08 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Backfiring In-Reply-To: <8ded18017bba4602899a4c356006f2fa@memphisassociates.com> References: <8ded18017bba4602899a4c356006f2fa@memphisassociates.com> Message-ID: Jon - Put carb oil in your carb dashpots first before doing anything else! Alan On 9/20/10, Jon Buhler wrote: > Fellows, your thoughts please. Backfiring under acceleration. Have checked > all of the usual problems, carbs, fuel pump, plugs, distributor, timing, > etc. > If it is due to a vaccuum lieak, what is the best way to check for this? > Thanks, > > Jon > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From ruvino at ripnet.com Sun Sep 19 16:18:29 2010 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:18:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem Message-ID: Beautiful day here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Just arrived back from a 5 hour tour. Stopped once to get gas and once to get wine for dinner. In the last hour of the trip something funny happened to the OD. When engaging I always lift my foot very slightly off the pedal-so far so good. As soon as I put the slightest pressure on the pedal it would dis-engage. Happened all the time for this last hour. Yesterday I changed the oil in the tranny to MTL-90-any relationship? I am to tired to check anything today so I am just throwing this problem out to the group now. Carl BN-4 Longbridge From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Sep 19 16:30:44 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:30:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <6A5310E26BBC46C680E6CCCEDB108082@tm> Message-ID: <8CD26616EE880EB-15C4-177DF@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> Just happen to have a large pile of them handy. The 2.25 inch wide shoes have an 11/16 long pin (total length of exposed pin and shoulder. The 1.75 inch wide shoes (BN1) have a 1/2 inch long pin. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Dave Porter' ; 'John Harper' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Sep 19, 2010 8:10 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes Does anyone have original pair of shoes to measure the pin for the cam? Mine looks like it's 1/2". It seems it's 2-4mm too short. Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Sep 19 16:33:45 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 16:33:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <70A89A61116A43AB91A31924291D3A72@oscar> Probably just coincidental. More likely the throttle switch is badly adjusted or the accumulator O-rings are hardened and leaking past..check the swith first! dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 4:18 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] OD problem Beautiful day here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Just arrived back from a 5 hour tour. Stopped once to get gas and once to get wine for dinner. In the last hour of the trip something funny happened to the OD. When engaging I always lift my foot very slightly off the pedal-so far so good. As soon as I put the slightest pressure on the pedal it would dis-engage. Happened all the time for this last hour. Yesterday I changed the oil in the tranny to MTL-90-any relationship? I am to tired to check anything today so I am just throwing this problem out to the group now. Carl BN-4 Longbridge _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Sep 19 17:09:08 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:09:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003201cb584f$aa217090$fe6451b0$@rr.com> If your overdrive relay goes bad, then it's possible to power the overdrive solenoid through the throttle switch only. Once you step on the gas, though, you open the throttle switch contacts and the overdrive drops out. You can test the relay by turning on the ignition and the overdrive dash switch. Pull off the white/green wires from relay terminal C2 and check to see if you have 12 volts at the terminal. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 6:18 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] OD problem Beautiful day here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Just arrived back from a 5 hour tour. Stopped once to get gas and once to get wine for dinner. In the last hour of the trip something funny happened to the OD. When engaging I always lift my foot very slightly off the pedal-so far so good. As soon as I put the slightest pressure on the pedal it would dis-engage. Happened all the time for this last hour. Yesterday I changed the oil in the tranny to MTL-90-any relationship? I am to tired to check anything today so I am just throwing this problem out to the group now. Carl BN-4 Longbridge From rjswain at hotmail.com Sun Sep 19 17:50:54 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 23:50:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem In-Reply-To: <003201cb584f$aa217090$fe6451b0$@rr.com> References: , <003201cb584f$aa217090$fe6451b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Carl This is exactly what happened to me a few years ago. New relay and the overdrive has worked fine ever since. Rick'59 BN4 > If your overdrive relay goes bad, then it's possible to power the overdrive > solenoid through the throttle switch only. Once you step on the gas, > though, you open the throttle switch contacts and the overdrive drops out. > You can test the relay by turning on the ignition and the overdrive dash > switch. Pull off the white/green wires from relay terminal C2 and check to > see if you have 12 volts at the terminal. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Sun Sep 19 18:06:03 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:06:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] PPG paint code In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <931064.33450.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have a mixing formula from BASF in base coat clear coat which is an exact match to the ice blue. Contact me tomorrow and I can fax you the formula. I have not been successful in getting this colour match from PPG or any other paint company. This formula is current. Happy Healeying, Marty 905-854-3555 www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Sat, 9/18/10, I Erbs wrote: From: I Erbs Subject: Re: [Healeys] PPG paint code To: "Shop at Just Brits" , "healey help" Received: Saturday, September 18, 2010, 8:32 PM The site like the pain shop is not helpful. That is why I'm asking the list On Sep 18, 2010 5:30 PM, "Shop at " Just Brits wrote: << but I need either a conversion web site or the PPG code for the color for my BT 7 1960 >> No Ira, what you NEED is a GOOD autobody/paint supply store !!! OR a friendly body shop. Me PS: Try the PPG site. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com From rpschauss at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 18:28:29 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 20:28:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4c96aaab.8175e50a.7fd7.ffffedb5@mx.google.com> I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. I replaced the o-rings on the accumulator and the problem went away. I don't know if there is any connection, but overdrive problem occurred about six months after I started using Redline MTL. When I refilled the gearbox, I used straight 30 weight non-detergent oil because I thought that I might have to open the box again to replace the rings in the accumulator. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino > Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 6:18 PM > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] OD problem > > Beautiful day here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Just arrived back from a 5 > hour tour. Stopped once to get gas and once to get wine for dinner. In > the > last hour of the trip something funny happened to the OD. When engaging I > always lift my foot very slightly off the pedal-so far so good. As soon as > I > put the slightest pressure on the pedal it would dis-engage. Happened all > the > time for this last hour. > > Yesterday I changed the oil in the tranny to MTL-90-any relationship? > > I am to tired to check anything today so I am just throwing this problem > out > to the group now. > > Carl > BN-4 Longbridge > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss at gmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 18:31:31 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 17:31:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <8CD26616EE880EB-15C4-177DF@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> References: <6A5310E26BBC46C680E6CCCEDB108082@tm> <8CD26616EE880EB-15C4-177DF@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: And thought there was no point in hanging on to the cores ;) On Sep 19, 2010 3:31 PM, wrote: > Just happen to have a large pile of them handy. The 2.25 inch wide > shoes have an 11/16 long pin (total length of exposed pin and shoulder. > The 1.75 inch wide shoes (BN1) have a 1/2 inch long pin. > Aloha > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > To: 'Dave Porter' ; 'John Harper' > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Sep 19, 2010 8:10 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes > > > Does anyone have original pair of shoes to measure the pin for the cam? > Mine > looks like it's 1/2". It seems it's 2-4mm too short. > > Best, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From barrie at look.ca Sun Sep 19 18:35:26 2010 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 20:35:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shock links In-Reply-To: <4C965016.5090402@earthlink.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100917160930.02000d78@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4C965016.5090402@earthlink.net> Message-ID: .....and White Post At 02:01 PM 9/19/2010, Bob Haskell wrote: >Apple Hydraulics > >john spaur wrote: >>Does anyone know who can install new rubber into the original shock >>links? The new Moss links are not "as original". >>Thank you, >>John Spaur >>'62 BT7 >>_______________________________________________ >>Healeys at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe/Manage: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie at look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 19 18:53:57 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 20:53:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brakes References: <173798.73296.qm@web120120.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001401cb585e$4ff35bb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I didn't see any mention of what series car you have. FYI I rebuilt my 3000 front calipers with new SS pistons, new seals and cleaned everything up and painted. Couldn't be happier with the stopping action and the price is definitely affordable and parts are always available. Even the silicone brake fluid is working great. Why spend more when the OEM stuff works great, IMHO. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph Cap" To: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 9:07 AM Subject: [Healeys] brakes > does anyone have any knowledge with the 4 piston caliper set that moss is > selling can it be bought somewhere else cheaper > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From alexmm at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 19 19:13:35 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 21:13:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem References: Message-ID: Hey Carl, check my O/D article here. I hope the info helps. http://www.healey6.com/Technical/OD%20Relay%20Repairs.pdf == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 6:18 PM Subject: [Healeys] OD problem > Beautiful day here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Just arrived back from a 5 > hour tour. Stopped once to get gas and once to get wine for dinner. In > the > last hour of the trip something funny happened to the OD. When engaging I > always lift my foot very slightly off the pedal-so far so good. As soon as > I > put the slightest pressure on the pedal it would dis-engage. Happened all > the > time for this last hour. > > Yesterday I changed the oil in the tranny to MTL-90-any relationship? > > I am to tired to check anything today so I am just throwing this problem > out > to the group now. > > Carl > BN-4 Longbridge [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sun Sep 19 20:20:30 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 21:20:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 - SOLVED! In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Hey kids, I finally got some time to mess with the Healey while I watched the Titans lose in the background. A local friend Bill Davis came over with his 62 to try and swap parts to diagnose my problem. I now had no spark yet the car ran and then stopped. After much fiddling we discovered that the lead wire from the cap to the coil was bad with an intermittent short. These were new wires! I put the old wire back on the cap and WHAM-O she fired right up. Running like a top again. Just returned from a long awaited country cruise. Thanks for the advice. Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY > From: don at anglesey.us > To: glemon at neb.rr.com > Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 08:52:03 -0600 > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 > > FWIW, > I have used the Facet successfully for years with no carb overflow problems. > I have replaced two over those years and they usually just stop pumping > fuel. I have also used a Carter which puts out a bit more pressure with no > bad results on my HD6's as well. I think the previous poster's got it > right. > > Don > 57' BN4 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Greg Lemon > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 9:56 PM > To: Alan Seigrist; Bob Spidell > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carbs overflowing on 60 BN7 > > I had similar problems when I used a Facet low pressure pump in my Healey, I > > rebult the SU and all was well, I kept the newer pump as a spare. > > Greg Lemon > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahpowered at hotmail.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Sep 19 20:24:19 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 19:24:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Center shift to side shift conversion Revised Message-ID: Sorry - forgot I couldn't simply upload/attach photos. For those who are interested in converting to a side shift here are some photos from a bus we rode in Mexico. You will notice how the shift is moved to the side, but apparently the downside is that it requires about 30 inches to move from first gear to second. When in second gear the knob is behind the shoulder of the driver) In a Healey this could be the back seat. Here's a link to the pictures: http://s774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/tahoehealey/Center%20Shift%20Conversi on/ From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 19 20:30:53 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 22:30:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100919223053.CX057.257232.root@pamxwww04-z01> could very easily be the switch. happened to me recently. New switch and all was well. tom ---- "Dr. C. Rubino" wrote: ============= Beautiful day here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Just arrived back from a 5 hour tour. .net From bighealey3k at aim.com Sun Sep 19 20:34:28 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 22:34:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Center shift to side shift conversion Revised In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD26837BD064EA-1254-23F86@webmail-d046.sysops.aol.com> Check out the cool custom driver's seat with the elastic strap suspension too. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Richard Kahn To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Sep 19, 2010 10:24 pm Subject: [Healeys] Center shift to side shift conversion Revised Sorry - forgot I couldn't simply upload/attach photos. For those who are interested in converting to a side shift here are some hotos from a bus we rode in Mexico. You will notice how the shift is moved o the side, but apparently the downside is that it requires about 30 inches o move from first gear to second. When in second gear the knob is behind he houlder of the driver) In a Healey this could be the back seat. Here's a link to the pictures: http://s774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/tahoehealey/Center%20Shift%20Conversi n/ ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 20:44:38 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 10:44:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Center shift to side shift conversion Revised In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The problem is that gearshift gaitor is from a '72 Triumph and therefore would not pass muster with the councours judges. On Mon, Sep 20, 2010 at 10:24 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > Sorry - forgot I couldn't simply upload/attach photos. > > For those who are interested in converting to a side shift here are some > photos from a bus we rode in Mexico. You will notice how the shift is moved > to the side, but apparently the downside is that it requires about 30 inches > to move from first gear to second. When in second gear the knob is behind > the > shoulder of the driver) In a Healey this could be the back seat. > > Here's a link to the pictures: From wilkmanracing at aol.com Sun Sep 19 21:04:39 2010 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 23:04:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Center shift to side shift conversion Revised In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2687B3465F8E-ED8-2906F@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> I feel like such a wimp complaining about my side shift Healey! Bill Wilkman -----Original Message----- From: Richard Kahn To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Sep 19, 2010 7:24 pm Subject: [Healeys] Center shift to side shift conversion Revised Sorry - forgot I couldn't simply upload/attach photos. For those who are interested in converting to a side shift here are some photos from a bus we rode in Mexico. You will notice how the shift is moved to the side, but apparently the downside is that it requires about 30 inches to move from first gear to second. When in second gear the knob is behind the shoulder of the driver) In a Healey this could be the back seat. Here's a link to the pictures: http://s774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/tahoehealey/Center%20Shift%20Conversi on/ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com From mark at bradakis.com Sun Sep 19 21:08:43 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 21:08:43 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... Message-ID: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> It's nice that a few folks like this list, as well as some of the other 5 dozen or so offered at Team.Net. But boy, one thing I hate is that list admin! When he isn't whining about some list management details, he's begging for beer money. Sure, he *says* it goes to pay the monthly out of pocket expenses and the occasional hardware upgrade, but who really knows? And some of the list rules, sheesh! Like the message size limit - what's up with that? It isn't like including the entire original message in a reply is going to waste bandwidth, or cause the archive search engine to work harder going through stuff that has already been seen. And so what if other list members get bounced off because the extra verbiage puts them over quota. Adding the entire original message may propagate the footer line with individualized links to subscriber's profiles, but no bad guys are going to waste their time sending out bogus unsubscribe, password changes or other such cruft just to be annoying. Who looks at that unsubscribe/manage link anyway? If you want to get off the list sending a message to the entire list should be sufficient, no need to follow some simple link and pass up a chance to pester that clueless admin. He must be pretty new at this, it is obvious he has no idea what he's doing. mjb. From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Sep 19 22:19:15 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 21:19:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] OD problem Message-ID: <974109.35035.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> What I don't undestand is with the switch on the shifter in a BJ wouldn't / doesn't the OD drop out when you shift into 2nd or neutral? What would happen if you were to shift from third to second with out flipping the dash switch to off? Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 19, 2010, at 8:30 PM, Tom Felts wrote: could very easily be the switch. happened to me recently. New switch and all was well. tom ---- "Dr. C. Rubino" wrote: ============= Beautiful day here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Just arrived back from a 5 hour tour. .net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From racarbon at verizon.net Sun Sep 19 22:32:56 2010 From: racarbon at verizon.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 00:32:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem Message-ID: Hi Carl, If I remember correctly, in a previous post a few months back addressing OD fluid, a reference was made to a website of an OD rebuilder that did some tests on the effects of different fluids. One of the test fluids was Red Line MTL which represented the class of synthetic fluids. The result of their test indicated that, though MTL proved to be one of the best for our ODs, the fluid would find its way out of the OD through every known, and some new, places. When I first switched to MTL90, my OD worked very smoothly for the first few days of use and then would not stay engaged until it stopped engaging altogether. Upon investigation, I found fluid had leaked into, and filled, the solenoid housing with the solenoid piston partially filled with fluid. After draining the fluid from the housing and cleaning and reinstalling the solenoid, I buttoned up the unit and it has worked fine ever since. I did no top up the OD as I felt it arrived at an equilibrium level with sufficient capacity to perform properly. All the best, Ray Carbone (64BJ8P1) From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Sep 19 22:46:37 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 21:46:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> References: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Hope this gets through the limit filter LOL That screed alone was worth the 12.50 alone. How did you arrive at that figure? I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Sep 19, 2010, at 8:08 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > It's nice that a few folks like this list, as well as some of the > other > 5 dozen or so offered at Team.Net. But boy, one thing I hate is that > list admin! When he isn't whining about some list management details, > he's begging for beer money. Sure, he *says* it goes to pay the > monthly > out of pocket expenses and the occasional hardware upgrade, but who > really knows? > > And some of the list rules, sheesh! Like the message size limit - > what's > up with that? It isn't like including the entire original message > in a > reply is going to waste bandwidth, or cause the archive search > engine to > work harder going through stuff that has already been seen. And so > what > if other list members get bounced off because the extra verbiage puts > them over quota. Adding the entire original message may propagate the > footer line with individualized links to subscriber's profiles, but > no bad guys are going to waste their time sending out bogus > unsubscribe, > password changes or other such cruft just to be annoying. > > Who looks at that unsubscribe/manage link anyway? If you want to get > off the list sending a message to the entire list should be > sufficient, > no need to follow some simple link and pass up a chance to pester that > clueless admin. He must be pretty new at this, it is obvious he has > no idea what he's doing. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From rwil at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 19 23:12:36 2010 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 22:12:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> References: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Like he said ..... ;-) On my way to the 'donate' page. -Roland On Sun, 19 Sep 2010 21:08:43 -0600 (MDT), mjb wrote: ::It's nice that a few folks like this list, as well as some of the other ::5 dozen or so offered at Team.Net. But boy, one thing I hate is that ::list admin! When he isn't whining about some list management details, ::he's begging for beer money. Sure, he *says* it goes to pay the monthly ::out of pocket expenses and the occasional hardware upgrade, but who ::really knows? :: ::And some of the list rules, sheesh! Like the message size limit - what's ::up with that? It isn't like including the entire original message in a ::reply is going to waste bandwidth, or cause the archive search engine to ::work harder going through stuff that has already been seen. And so what ::if other list members get bounced off because the extra verbiage puts ::them over quota. Adding the entire original message may propagate the ::footer line with individualized links to subscriber's profiles, but ::no bad guys are going to waste their time sending out bogus unsubscribe, ::password changes or other such cruft just to be annoying. :: ::Who looks at that unsubscribe/manage link anyway? If you want to get ::off the list sending a message to the entire list should be sufficient, ::no need to follow some simple link and pass up a chance to pester that ::clueless admin. He must be pretty new at this, it is obvious he has ::no idea what he's doing. :: ::mjb. From healeyray at yahoo.com Sun Sep 19 23:20:23 2010 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 22:20:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <860234.35019.qm@web111409.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I had no idea the donations were for beer money...I'm shocked..shocked. When he isn't whining about some list management details, he's begging for beer money. Sure, he *says* it goes to pay the monthly out of pocket expenses and the occasional hardware upgrade, but who really knows? From mark at bradakis.com Sun Sep 19 23:40:54 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 23:40:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: References: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4C96F3E6.2020702@bradakis.com> I Erbs wrote: > Hope this gets through the limit filter > LOL > That screed alone was worth the 12.50 alone. How did you arrive at > that figure? Actually it is $12.75. What size engines were available in the Bugeye? mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sun Sep 19 23:48:42 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 23:48:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <860234.35019.qm@web111409.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <860234.35019.qm@web111409.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C96F5BA.3090208@bradakis.com> Ray Juncal wrote: > I had no idea the donations were for beer money...I'm shocked..shocked. > > In truth I have gotten checks and such in the past where the contributor gave explicit instructions to NOT spend the money on the DSL line and ISP or whatever out of pocket expenses it takes to keep things going. Now if only the single-malt list had a bunch of generous subscribers... mjb. From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 00:08:39 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 16:08:39 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: References: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <34BD31C8-EE99-421F-B130-A0B85EFCB332@gmail.com> The largest capacity BMC a series engine used in Austin Healey Sprites. 948cc; 1098cc and 1275cc Mark could have instigated a variable pricing regime.... 100 owners pay $26.60 100/6 owners pay $26.39 3000 owners pay $29.12 ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 20/09/2010, at 2:46 PM, I Erbs wrote: > Hope this gets through the limit filter > LOL > That screed alone was worth the 12.50 alone. How did you arrive at > that figure? > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > On Sep 19, 2010, at 8:08 PM, Mark J Bradakis > wrote: > >> It's nice that a few folks like this list, as well as some of the >> other >> 5 dozen or so offered at Team.Net. But boy, one thing I hate is that >> list admin! When he isn't whining about some list management >> details, >> he's begging for beer money. Sure, he *says* it goes to pay the >> monthly >> out of pocket expenses and the occasional hardware upgrade, but who >> really knows? >> >> And some of the list rules, sheesh! Like the message size limit - >> what's >> up with that? It isn't like including the entire original message >> in a >> reply is going to waste bandwidth, or cause the archive search >> engine to >> work harder going through stuff that has already been seen. And so >> what >> if other list members get bounced off because the extra verbiage puts >> them over quota. Adding the entire original message may propagate >> the >> footer line with individualized links to subscriber's profiles, but >> no bad guys are going to waste their time sending out bogus >> unsubscribe, >> password changes or other such cruft just to be annoying. >> >> Who looks at that unsubscribe/manage link anyway? If you want to get >> off the list sending a message to the entire list should be >> sufficient, >> no need to follow some simple link and pass up a chance to pester >> that >> clueless admin. He must be pretty new at this, it is obvious he has >> no idea what he's doing. >> >> mjb. >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Sep 20 00:57:27 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 08:57:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <8CD26616EE880EB-15C4-177DF@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: This settles it then! Many thanks! -----Original Message----- From: healeyguy at aol.com [mailto:healeyguy at aol.com] Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:31 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes Just happen to have a large pile of them handy. The 2.25 inch wide shoes have an 11/16 long pin (total length of exposed pin and shoulder. The 1.75 inch wide shoes (BN1) have a 1/2 inch long pin. Aloha Perry From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Sep 20 04:11:20 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 11:11:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <8CD26616EE880EB-15C4-177DF@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> References: <6A5310E26BBC46C680E6CCCEDB108082@tm> <8CD26616EE880EB-15C4-177DF@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> Tadek My measurements more or less confirm Perry's Except that the measurements for Unipart supercessions come out shorter at 2 1/4" shoes 0.603 from face of shoe to post tip (15.32mm) [11/16" = 0.682"] These I noticed when fitted these only just engaged fully with the cam with nothing to spare. However stating the obvious can you confirm that you are fitting 2 1/4" wide BN2 shoes?. If you were fitting 1 3/4" wide BN1 shoes this would perhaps explain the difference. Regards >Just happen to have a large pile of them handy. The 2.25 inch wide >shoes have an 11/16 long pin (total length of exposed pin and shoulder. >The 1.75 inch wide shoes (BN1) have a 1/2 inch long pin. >Aloha >Perry > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz >To: 'Dave Porter' ; 'John Harper' > >Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >Sent: Sun, Sep 19, 2010 8:10 am >Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes > > >Does anyone have original pair of shoes to measure the pin for the cam? >Mine >looks like it's 1/2". It seems it's 2-4mm too short. -- John Harper From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 20 05:13:00 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 07:13:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) References: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Totally agree, You should have seen my laygear when I bought my car. No small gear hardly at all. And it would jump big time if you tried to put it in reverse or first. Many of the used tranys that I purchased had the same problem. Big time flaw. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 4:15 PM Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) > Thanks to everyone who has offered wisdom, advice, help, etc. regarding my > "Munched Overdrive" post. I am going to try the hammer tap suggestion and > I > do plan to drain the O/D to see what comes out. If it's munched, I need > to > decide whether to have it fixed or to go the Toyota 5-speed route. > > I do have one other question for the group. When I had my trans and OD > rebuilt about 10 years ago, the rebuilder told me to make sure the OD is > disengaged before the car is parked. I believe he also mentioned that I > should not back the car up if I forget to do this, as it could destroy the > OD. > My question is this: Why would something as simple as leaving an OD > engaged > cause such havoc. I'm pretty mechanically wise, but I'm sure a lot of > Healey > owners in the past have been just plain drivers with no real mechanical > knowledge. Someone like my wife would never even think about disengaging > the > overdrive after every freeway run. Isn't this a serious design flaw that > such > a simple lapse would lead to such a mechanical disaster? > > > > Bill Wilkman > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 06:31:50 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 05:31:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) In-Reply-To: <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: OK I am lost here. How does a torn up laygear indicate a design flaw in the overdrive? Rick Sent from my iPhone On Sep 20, 2010, at 4:13, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: > Totally agree, You should have seen my laygear when I bought my car. No small gear hardly at all. > And it would jump big time if you tried to put it in reverse or first. Many of the used tranys that > I purchased had the same problem. > > Big time flaw. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 4:15 PM > Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) > > >> Thanks to everyone who has offered wisdom, advice, help, etc. regarding my >> "Munched Overdrive" post. I am going to try the hammer tap suggestion and I >> do plan to drain the O/D to see what comes out. If it's munched, I need to >> decide whether to have it fixed or to go the Toyota 5-speed route. >> >> I do have one other question for the group. When I had my trans and OD >> rebuilt about 10 years ago, the rebuilder told me to make sure the OD is >> disengaged before the car is parked. I believe he also mentioned that I >> should not back the car up if I forget to do this, as it could destroy the OD. >> My question is this: Why would something as simple as leaving an OD engaged >> cause such havoc. I'm pretty mechanically wise, but I'm sure a lot of Healey >> owners in the past have been just plain drivers with no real mechanical >> knowledge. Someone like my wife would never even think about disengaging the >> overdrive after every freeway run. Isn't this a serious design flaw that such >> a simple lapse would lead to such a mechanical disaster? >> >> >> >> Bill Wilkman >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From mgcharlie at comcast.net Mon Sep 20 06:50:27 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 08:50:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) In-Reply-To: <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C975893.3090108@comcast.net> There really isn't a design flaw here. The system will disengage the overdrive electrically before shifting into reverse via the 3rd/4th switch. And as already pointed out, the pressure dissipates after the car sits for a while. What is happening now, some 43 - 57 years later is a mechanical problem caused by the return springs weakening over all of those years and miles. Even a "rebuilt" transmission and overdrive may have not had those springs replaced and if they were, they may not have been to exactly the original specification. > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 4:15 PM > Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) > > >> Thanks to everyone who has offered wisdom, advice, help, etc. >> regarding my >> "Munched Overdrive" post. I am going to try the hammer tap >> suggestion and I >> do plan to drain the O/D to see what comes out. If it's munched, I >> need to >> decide whether to have it fixed or to go the Toyota 5-speed route. >> >> I do have one other question for the group. When I had my trans and OD >> rebuilt about 10 years ago, the rebuilder told me to make sure the OD is >> disengaged before the car is parked. I believe he also mentioned that I >> should not back the car up if I forget to do this, as it could >> destroy the OD. >> My question is this: Why would something as simple as leaving an OD >> engaged >> cause such havoc. I'm pretty mechanically wise, but I'm sure a lot >> of Healey >> owners in the past have been just plain drivers with no real mechanical >> knowledge. Someone like my wife would never even think about >> disengaging the >> overdrive after every freeway run. Isn't this a serious design flaw >> that such >> a simple lapse would lead to such a mechanical disaster? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Sep 20 07:00:11 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 9:00:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100920090011.PNI33.88608.root@pamxwww05-z01> FWIW, that happened to me once with 30W oil. I've used the Redline for years now without any problems. ---- Ray Carbone wrote: ============= Hi Carl, If I remember correctly, in a previous post a few months back addressing OD fluid, a reference was made to a website of an OD rebuilder that did some tests on the effects of different fluids. One of the test fluids was Red Line MTL which represented the class of synthetic fluids. The result of their test indicated that, though MTL proved to be one of the best for our ODs, the fluid would find its way out of the OD through every known, and some new, places. When I first switched to MTL90, my OD worked very smoothly for the first few days of use and then would not stay engaged until it stopped engaging altogether. Upon investigation, I found fluid had leaked into, and filled, the solenoid housing with the solenoid piston partially filled with fluid. After draining the fluid from the housing and cleaning and reinstalling the solenoid, I buttoned up the unit and it has worked fine ever since. I did no top up the OD as I felt it arrived at an equilibrium level with sufficient capacity to perform properly. All the best, Ray Carbone (64BJ8P1) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 07:01:43 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 23:01:43 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) In-Reply-To: <4C975893.3090108@comcast.net> References: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4C975893.3090108@comcast.net> Message-ID: Exactly right Charlie!!! The key is to realise that if your car won't drive backwards, (and you can't even push/roll it backwards in neutral) then your Healey is stuck in overdrive. If it happens, then as I described earlier, you have to tap the metal sandwich plate on the overdrive with your knock off hammer to release the springs. Only happened to me once, but I've now seen it happen to 3 or 4 other healeys, and only ever at track days. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 20/09/2010, at 10:50 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > There really isn't a design flaw here. The system will disengage the > overdrive electrically before shifting into reverse via the 3rd/4th > switch. And as already pointed out, the pressure dissipates after the > car sits for a while. > What is happening now, some 43 - 57 years later is a mechanical > problem > caused by the return springs weakening over all of those years and > miles. Even a "rebuilt" transmission and overdrive may have not had > those springs replaced and if they were, they may not have been to > exactly the original specification. > > >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: >> To: >> Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 4:15 PM >> Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) >> >> >>> Thanks to everyone who has offered wisdom, advice, help, etc. >>> regarding my >>> "Munched Overdrive" post. I am going to try the hammer tap >>> suggestion and I >>> do plan to drain the O/D to see what comes out. From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Sep 20 07:11:17 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 15:11:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> Message-ID: <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> John, I have EXTREME trouble with inches and I do not have any idea who in the name of the God came up with 11/16" and other peculiar measurements which are a fraction of 16. This must have been some sort of punishment, at least I take it so now :-) However, I would notice if my shoes were over 1cm narrower than the drum :-) So, yes, my shoes are 2 1/2". I asked my machinist to make tips: ______ ______XXXX Where the first bit is a cylinder and the XXXX is the extra length needed. They would be then come on top of the tip and be mig welded. This will increase the diameter by 2mm (just less than 3/32"), but this I hope will be all right.. John and others, Many thanks for helping with the issue! Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: John Harper [mailto:ah at jharper.demon.co.uk] Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:11 PM To: healeyguy at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes Tadek My measurements more or less confirm Perry's Except that the measurements for Unipart supercessions come out shorter at 2 1/4" shoes 0.603 from face of shoe to post tip (15.32mm) [11/16" = 0.682"] These I noticed when fitted these only just engaged fully with the cam with nothing to spare. However stating the obvious can you confirm that you are fitting 2 1/4" wide BN2 shoes?. If you were fitting 1 3/4" wide BN1 shoes this would perhaps explain the difference. Regards From warthodson at aol.com Mon Sep 20 07:33:26 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:33:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) In-Reply-To: <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <8CD26DF8A22F348-888-1B1F3@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> As stated previously, the mechanic is wrong. A properly set up overdrive will drop out of overdrive (even if the OD switch is left on) when first, second or reverse gear is selected & will also drop out when the ignition key is turned off, even if the OD switch is on & the transmission is in third or fourth gear. Gary Hodson ----- Original Message ----- From: > > I do have one other question for the group. When I had my trans and OD > rebuilt about 10 years ago, the rebuilder told me to make sure the OD is > disengaged before the car is parked. I believe he also mentioned that I > should not back the car up if I forget to do this, as it could destroy the > OD. > My question is this: Why would something as simple as leaving an OD > engaged > cause such havoc. I'm pretty mechanically wise, but I'm sure a lot of > Healey > owners in the past have been just plain drivers with no real mechanical > knowledge. Someone like my wife would never even think about disengaging > the > overdrive after every freeway run. Isn't this a serious design flaw that > such > a simple lapse would lead to such a mechanical disaster? > > > > Bill Wilkman > _______________________________________________ From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 07:46:32 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:46:32 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> Message-ID: Well, this is from the same people who came up with shillings, pence, pound and guinea. 20 shillings per pound, 12 pence per shilling, 21 shillings per guinea. It all makes perfect sense, right? On 9/20/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > John, > > I have EXTREME trouble with inches and I do not have any idea who in the > name of the God came up with 11/16" and other peculiar measurements which > are a fraction of 16. This must have been some sort of punishment, at least > I take it so now :-) > > However, I would notice if my shoes were over 1cm narrower than the drum :-) > So, yes, my shoes are 2 1/2". > > I asked my machinist to make tips: > ______ > ______XXXX > > Where the first bit is a cylinder and the XXXX is the extra length needed. > They would be then come on top of the tip and be mig welded. This will > increase the diameter by 2mm (just less than 3/32"), but this I hope will be > all right.. > > John and others, Many thanks for helping with the issue! > > Best, Tadek > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Harper [mailto:ah at jharper.demon.co.uk] > Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:11 PM > To: healeyguy at aol.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes > > > Tadek > > My measurements more or less confirm Perry's > > Except that the measurements for Unipart supercessions come out shorter > at > > 2 1/4" shoes 0.603 from face of shoe to post tip (15.32mm) > [11/16" = 0.682"] > These I noticed when fitted these only just engaged fully with the cam > with nothing to spare. > > However stating the obvious can you confirm that you are fitting 2 1/4" > wide BN2 shoes?. If you were fitting 1 3/4" wide BN1 shoes this would > perhaps explain the difference. > > Regards > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From javrugtman at htcnet.org Mon Sep 20 07:49:18 2010 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:49:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <34BD31C8-EE99-421F-B130-A0B85EFCB332@gmail.com> References: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> <34BD31C8-EE99-421F-B130-A0B85EFCB332@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C97665E.8090507@htcnet.org> Now wait a minute; that would mean I'd pay $58.24, 2 * 3000s. And I know some who have 3 or more! John 64/66 BJ8s On 9/20/2010 2:08 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > The largest capacity BMC a series engine used in Austin Healey Sprites. > 948cc; 1098cc and 1275cc > > Mark could have instigated a variable pricing regime.... > 100 owners pay $26.60 > 100/6 owners pay $26.39 > 3000 owners pay $29.12 > ;-) > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Mon Sep 20 08:29:59 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:29:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <4C96F3E6.2020702@bradakis.com> References: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com>, , <4C96F3E6.2020702@bradakis.com> Message-ID: The Bugeye had a 948. Later Sprites had 1098 and 1275. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 23:40:54 -0600 > From: mark at bradakis.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... > > I Erbs wrote: > > Hope this gets through the limit filter > > LOL > > That screed alone was worth the 12.50 alone. How did you arrive at > > that figure? > > Actually it is $12.75. > > What size engines were available in the Bugeye? > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 08:49:20 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 16:49:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> Message-ID: And don't forget ounces, pounds, stones, hundredweights, inches, feet, fathoms, yards, miles and driving on the wrong side of the road! Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 2010/9/20 Alan Seigrist > Well, this is from the same people who came up with shillings, pence, > pound and guinea. 20 shillings per pound, 12 pence per shilling, 21 > shillings per guinea. It all makes perfect sense, right? > > > On 9/20/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > > John, > > > > I have EXTREME trouble with inches and I do not have any idea who in the > > name of the God came up with 11/16" and other peculiar measurements which > > are a fraction of 16. This must have been some sort of punishment, at > least > > I take it so now :-) > > > > However, I would notice if my shoes were over 1cm narrower than the drum > :-) > > So, yes, my shoes are 2 1/2". > > > > I asked my machinist to make tips: > > ______ > > ______XXXX > > > > Where the first bit is a cylinder and the XXXX is the extra length > needed. > > They would be then come on top of the tip and be mig welded. This will > > increase the diameter by 2mm (just less than 3/32"), but this I hope will > be > > all right.. > > > > John and others, Many thanks for helping with the issue! > > > > Best, Tadek > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: John Harper [mailto:ah at jharper.demon.co.uk] > > Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:11 PM > > To: healeyguy at aol.com > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes > > > > > > Tadek > > > > My measurements more or less confirm Perry's > > > > Except that the measurements for Unipart supercessions come out shorter > > at > > > > 2 1/4" shoes 0.603 from face of shoe to post tip (15.32mm) > > [11/16" = 0.682"] > > These I noticed when fitted these only just engaged fully with the cam > > with nothing to spare. > > > > However stating the obvious can you confirm that you are fitting 2 1/4" > > wide BN2 shoes?. If you were fitting 1 3/4" wide BN1 shoes this would > > perhaps explain the difference. > > > > Regards > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Mon Sep 20 09:13:31 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 10:13:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> Message-ID: <4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> << and driving on the wrong side of the road! >> At least we don't "tilt at windmills", Jaap !!!!! !!! Anon From 55healey at comcast.net Mon Sep 20 09:33:02 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 08:33:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <34BD31C8-EE99-421F-B130-A0B85EFCB332@gmail.com> References: <20100920030843.8180A2E06E@bradakis.com> <34BD31C8-EE99-421F-B130-A0B85EFCB332@gmail.com> Message-ID: Great idea Chris, My $26.60 is on the way. Rob '55 BN1 On Sep 19, 2010, at 11:08 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > The largest capacity BMC a series engine used in Austin Healey > Sprites. > 948cc; 1098cc and 1275cc > > Mark could have instigated a variable pricing regime.... > 100 owners pay $26.60 > 100/6 owners pay $26.39 > 3000 owners pay $29.12 > ;-) > Chris From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 20 09:44:53 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 17:44:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> <4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C978175.6010207@chello.nl> I always found it a pity that Napoleon did not conquer the UK. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From wilkmanracing at aol.com Mon Sep 20 09:46:55 2010 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 11:46:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) In-Reply-To: <8CD26DF8A22F348-888-1B1F3@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD264E88349B1F-16B8-21A39@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com> <001e01cb58b4$c9ef6ca0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <8CD26DF8A22F348-888-1B1F3@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD26F22FE4EFD3-8B8-8E7@webmail-d091.sysops.aol.com> After reading all the posts and reflecting back to what the garage owner actually said, I realize I was a bit off. My recollection now is that he was referring to the fact that the mechanic who did the rebuild had bead blasted the clutch. This, the garage owner said, can sometimes make the clutch stick in the engaged position. I don't know if that's what is happening to my OD now (10 years later) or if it's weakened springs, as others have suggested. Bill Wilkman -----Original Message----- From: warthodson at aol.com To: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net; healeys at autox.team.net; wilkmanracing at aol.com Sent: Mon, Sep 20, 2010 6:33 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) As stated previously, the mechanic is wrong. A properly set up overdrive will drop out of overdrive (even if the OD switch is left on) when first, second or reverse gear is selected & will also drop out when the ignition key is turned off, even if the OD switch is on & the transmission is in third or fourth gear. Gary Hodson ----- Original Message ----- From: > > I do have one other question for the group. When I had my trans and OD > rebuilt about 10 years ago, the rebuilder told me to make sure the OD is > disengaged before the car is parked. I believe he also mentioned that I > should not back the car up if I forget to do this, as it could destroy the > OD. > My question is this: Why would something as simple as leaving an OD > engaged > cause such havoc. I'm pretty mechanically wise, but I'm sure a lot of > Healey > owners in the past have been just plain drivers with no real mechanical > knowledge. Someone like my wife would never even think about disengaging > the > overdrive after every freeway run. Isn't this a serious design flaw that > such > a simple lapse would lead to such a mechanical disaster? > > > > Bill Wilkman > _______________________________________________ From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 20 09:59:01 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 11:59:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sept 25th car show- Lancaster, PA Message-ID: For anyone not going to MG on the Rocks. One week until Celebration for Life- fight against cancer (at the Lanc Liederkranz). Picnic, pig roast, BEER, charity auction, kids activities, and now- Classic car show!! We are trying to build up the car show, so bring out you classic cars. More info and to register at www.c4life.org The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Mon Sep 20 10:50:45 2010 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:50:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <430802.65555.qm@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> replying to this section: > Also make sure that the pedal can return fully (is the > diamond-shaped indentation in the footwell there?) This also > makes an awful lot of difference. I am missing this diamond shape indentation after rust repair to the footbox. As a result the brake pedal "lever" is touching the footbox. My plan is to make a negative mold in MDF or so, use the nearby screw holes to locate it on the cockpit side and some long reach clamps to clamp this in place through the brake pedal/clutch pedal holes and hammer or press this shape in from the outside. Probably also keep this piece in place with a 2x4". Anybody else had to do this or used a different method? Is 5/16" or 8 mm (5/16 * 2.54) deep enough? thanks, Bert From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Sep 20 10:57:07 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:57:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <430802.65555.qm@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <430802.65555.qm@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BFC07C319C64DB08302D10D18B600F1@LIFEBOOK> Bert, et al, 5/16" should be deep enough. I believe the original pressing is about 1/4". Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bert Van Brande" Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:50 PM To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" ; ; "Peter & Veronica" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: 100 front brakes > replying to this section: > >> Also make sure that the pedal can return fully (is the >> diamond-shaped indentation in the footwell there?) This also >> makes an awful lot of difference. > > I am missing this diamond shape indentation after rust repair to the > footbox. As a result the brake pedal "lever" is touching the footbox. > My plan is to make a negative mold in MDF or so, use the nearby screw > holes to locate it on the cockpit side and some long reach clamps to clamp > this in place through the brake pedal/clutch pedal holes and hammer or > press this shape in from the outside. Probably also keep this piece in > place with a 2x4". > > Anybody else had to do this or used a different method? Is 5/16" or 8 mm > (5/16 * 2.54) deep enough? > > thanks, > > Bert > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From miklmal at mac.com Mon Sep 20 11:18:36 2010 From: miklmal at mac.com (Mike Maloney) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:18:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye Sprite Front clip Message-ID: <802FF999-B4C4-4AFA-975F-CAA8106EAFCF@mac.com> Healey List; In eastern Ontario,Canada there is a Sprite front clip,a 68 Midget and an 80 Midget available. Contact Mitch at urbanhearth.ca Or phone 613-349-9129 I just saw these in a field and talked to owner. I have no interest in them. Mike Maloney ,66 HLY, HBJ8L 32990 From invite at shopittome.com Mon Sep 20 11:37:28 2010 From: invite at shopittome.com (Craig via Shop It To Me) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:37:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Craig (cjrice98@hotmail.co.uk) personally selected you to receive a Shop It To Me UK invitation Message-ID: <4c979bd8d956f_d64ea3592c51246@uk2.shopittome.co.uk.tmail> This is brand new in the UK - I got you a private invitation. I know you like good deals on clothing/fashion! Go here: http://shopittome.co.uk/expiring_invitation/bcv1a98fceb -Craig This private invitation will expire in 24 hours. Craig (cjrice98 at hotmail.co.uk) has sent you a private invitation for Shop It To Me. If you do not want to receive these messages, paste the following link into your browser: http://shopittome.co.uk/blocked_email/aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA__ Shop It To Me, Inc. 410 Townsend Street #150 San Francisco, CA 94107, USA. From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Sep 20 11:57:41 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 10:57:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <34BD31C8-EE99-421F-B130-A0B85EFCB332@gmail.com> Message-ID: <672245.84507.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I'd prefer to be charged on my 948 Bugeye rather than the 5.0 L Nasty Boy! Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 9/20/10, Chris Dimmock wrote: From: Chris Dimmock Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... To: "I Erbs" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 2:08 AM The largest capacity BMC a series engine used in Austin Healey Sprites. 948cc; 1098cc and 1275cc Mark could have instigated a variable pricing regime.... 100 owners pay $26.60 100/6 owners pay $26.39 3000 owners pay $29.12 ;-) Chris om From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 12:01:21 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 11:01:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... In-Reply-To: <672245.84507.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <34BD31C8-EE99-421F-B130-A0B85EFCB332@gmail.com> <672245.84507.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I used to own a 875 cc Sumbean IMP. I want a refund.... On Mon, Sep 20, 2010 at 10:57 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > I'd prefer to be charged on my 948 Bugeye rather than the 5.0 L Nasty Boy! > > Rick > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On *Mon, 9/20/10, Chris Dimmock * wrote: > > > From: Chris Dimmock > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What I hate about this list... > To: "I Erbs" > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 2:08 AM > > The largest capacity BMC a series engine used in Austin Healey Sprites. > 948cc; 1098cc and 1275cc > > Mark could have instigated a variable pricing regime.... > 100 owners pay $26.60 > 100/6 owners pay $26.39 > 3000 owners pay $29.12 > ;-) > Chris > > om > > > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Sep 20 13:08:37 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 20:08:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> <4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <001801cb58f7$3ba18a80$b2e49f80$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Those were Spanish windmills. Yours, Don Quixote. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: 20 September 2010 16:14 To: Healey forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes << and driving on the wrong side of the road! >> At least we don't "tilt at windmills", Jaap !!!!! !!! Anon _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Sep 20 13:09:55 2010 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:09:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Backfiring In-Reply-To: <8ded18017bba4602899a4c356006f2fa@memphisassociates.com> References: <8ded18017bba4602899a4c356006f2fa@memphisassociates.com> Message-ID: <098E2B89EFCC1F40A63BBC6B403BFDDC0820D5B8@PRGMBX07> I somewhat recently cured a vacuum leak, by installing a new manifold gasket and tossing the brass nuts into the trash can. I could see evidence of the leaks on the gasket and the manifold and exhaust blowing as well. The WD 40 test did not reveal a leak. The smoke machine did not reveal a leak. With Kirk headers and stock heat shield, I could not get to the underside of the manifold to spray anything. Maybe one could on a lift, I don't know. I just knew there was a leak because of the way it ran and knowing about a short cut I took after the engine rebuild that I shouldn't have taken. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jon Buhler Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 12:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Backfiring Fellows, your thoughts please. Backfiring under acceleration. Have checked all of the usual problems, carbs, fuel pump, plugs, distributor, timing, etc. If it is due to a vaccuum lieak, what is the best way to check for this? Thanks, Jon From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 14:40:51 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 22:40:51 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> <4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: YBGBTS, man (You better go back to school) ! Fighting windmills took place in Spain and that is quite another country than The Netherlands. 2010/9/20 Shop at " Just Brits " > << and driving on the wrong side of the road! >> > > At least we don't "tilt at windmills", Jaap !!!!! > > !!! > > Anon > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From rnbmail at yahoo.com Mon Sep 20 14:51:24 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:51:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) In-Reply-To: <8CD26DF8A22F348-888-1B1F3@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <969253.50309.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Gary, Good clear answer - hope you are right. Makes sense that this should be the tech case otherwise recalls would have killed AH et al. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com --- On Mon, 9/20/10, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > From: warthodson at aol.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Design Flaw? (was Munched Overdrive?) > To: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net, healeys at autox.team.net, wilkmanracing at aol.com > Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 6:33 AM > As stated previously, the mechanic is > wrong. A properly set up overdrive will > drop out of overdrive (even if the OD switch is left on) > when first, second or > reverse gear is selected & will also drop out when the > ignition key is turned > off, even if the OD switch is on & the transmission is > in third or fourth > gear. > Gary Hodson > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > > > > > I do have one other question for the group. When I had > my trans and OD > > rebuilt about 10 years ago, the rebuilder told me to > make sure the OD is > > disengaged before the car is parked. I believe he also > mentioned that I > > should not back the car up if I forget to do this, as > it could destroy the > > OD. > > My question is this: Why would something as simple as > leaving an OD > > engaged > > cause such havoc. I'm pretty mechanically wise, but > I'm sure a lot of > > Healey > > owners in the past have been just plain drivers with > no real mechanical > > knowledge. Someone like my wife would never even think > about disengaging > > the > > overdrive after every freeway run. Isn't this a > serious design flaw that > > such > > a simple lapse would lead to such a mechanical > disaster? > > > > > > > > Bill Wilkman > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com From shop at justbrits.com Mon Sep 20 15:10:19 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 16:10:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk> <32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm> <4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C97CDBB.9020704@justbrits.com> << Fighting windmills took place in Spain and that is quite another country than The Netherlands. >> I knew the history Jack, just couldn't resist as you good folks have the most & best windmills !!! !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Sep 20 15:12:07 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 07:12:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk><32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm><4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: G'day Jaap Now I am confused. Personally I would rather talk further about Sigourney Weaver, but didn't the Netherlands once have a Spanish king? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Where we have a Queen of Australia and still think in feet, inches, millimetres and metres -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin Sent: Tuesday, 21 September 2010 6:41 AM To: Shop at Just Brits; Healey forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes YBGBTS, man (You better go back to school) ! Fighting windmills took place in Spain and that is quite another country than The Netherlands. 2010/9/20 Shop at " Just Brits " > << and driving on the wrong side of the road! >> > > At least we don't "tilt at windmills", Jaap !!!!! > > !!! > > Anon From steveg at abrazosdata.com Mon Sep 20 15:19:12 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:19:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Horn_push_spring_needed?= Message-ID: <20100920211912.21192.qmail@hoster902.com> If anyone has a horn button spring they could sell me, please respond offline. Thanks in advance. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Sep 20 15:36:31 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 07:36:31 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 100 front brakes In-Reply-To: <430802.65555.qm@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <430802.65555.qm@web36702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <93367DFC40BD4768A898C70E19421B65@Notebook> G'day Bert We had this issue with my friend's BN1. We planned to make a hardwood female mould to go inside the footwell, and a steel male die to go outside, drill a small hole in the footwell where the indentation was required and pull the two together with a screw. A bit more positive than bashing away with a hammer even if you have room to get a swing at it. In the end, he went back to the people who did the body work - I don't know how they did it. Cheers Peter > I am missing this diamond shape indentation after rust repair to the > footbox. As a result the brake pedal "lever" is touching the footbox. > My plan is to make a negative mold in MDF or so, use the nearby screw > holes to locate it on the cockpit side and some long reach clamps to clamp > this in place through the brake pedal/clutch pedal holes and hammer or > press this shape in from the outside. Probably also keep this piece in > place with a 2x4". > > Anybody else had to do this or used a different method? Is 5/16" or 8 mm > (5/16 * 2.54) deep enough? > > thanks, > > Bert From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 20 16:20:14 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 15:20:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? In-Reply-To: <8CD2580C0CA8CD8-10FC-11D12@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2580C0CA8CD8-10FC-11D12@webmail-m009.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8A790E58-9054-41F5-B13E-14F9F66308BB@sbcglobal.net> The overdrive will hang up for several reasons. 1. If the bleed hole in the operating rod is plugged the overdrive will be very slow to come out. 2. The solenoid is adjusted to move to far the clutch will jam against the anulus 3. The isolator switch is faulty and overdrive switch is on 4. Bent operating rod Usually when the overdrive sticks on and you have backed up to far the unidrive will try to work backwards and break apart David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com On Sep 18, 2010, at 12:42 PM, wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote: > I drove my BT7 to a Healey event this weekend. When I backed the > car out of > its parking space I heard a loud CLUNK! On the way home, I > couldn't operate > the overdrive from the dash switch. When I got home I pulled the > car a bit > too far into the garage and, after shutting off the engine, I tried > to push > the car back. It wouldn't budge. So I started it and backed it up > under > power. CLUNK! Have I munched my overdrive? > > Bill Wilkman > BT7. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From waschu2 at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 17:04:24 2010 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 19:04:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey oil leak update Message-ID: <4C97E878.1030500@gmail.com> Hi Everyone, Thanks to everyone for the ideas and input. After much angst I decided to pull the gearbox and explore what was going on. It seems the oil pan, engine back plate and gearbox took quite a jolt while loading into the container. My friend was watching the loading process and was aware of the bottoming out of the car until suitable ramps were improvised. With the gearbox out I found several bolts holding the bell housing to the gearbox now leaking oil and the engine oil pan distorted at the rear causing another leak that was running down the back plate and dripping off the gearbox. I also found that when the engine was rebuilt, years ago in England, they did install a rear seal kit which seemed pretty dry. My plan is to change the oil pan to an after market aluminum unit rather then try and fiddle with the original steel pan. Pull the engine back plate and change its gasket. Check the rear main lip seal kit for leaks. Change the bell housing gasket to the gearbox , replace the gearbox input seal and reinstall the bell housing bolts with Loctite thread sealer. Replace the clutch disk, throwout bearing and lightly resurface the flywheel. Let me know what you think, hate to overlook something while its apart. Regards Wayne Schultz From 55healey at comcast.net Mon Sep 20 17:08:06 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 16:08:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater hard top Message-ID: HI Gang, A guy stopped me on the way back from the Rendezvous in Chelan. Said he has one of "Those cars" but also mentioned that he did have a hard top for a 4 seater that he would like to sell. I don't know any more than that but if there is some brave soul that wants one and knows what to ask his name is: Gary Wilson. He lives in North Bend, WA Phone: (425) 888-6344 Rob Westcott (425) 644-9590 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Sep 20 17:11:44 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 19:11:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey oil leak update In-Reply-To: <4C97E878.1030500@gmail.com> References: <4C97E878.1030500@gmail.com> Message-ID: <037701cb5919$3198e7f0$94cab7d0$@verizon.net> Did you make an insurance claim? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Schultz Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 7:04 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healey oil leak update Hi Everyone, Thanks to everyone for the ideas and input. After much angst I decided to pull the gearbox and explore what was going on. It seems the oil pan, engine back plate and gearbox took quite a jolt while loading into the container. My friend was watching the loading process and was aware of the bottoming out of the car until suitable ramps were improvised. With the gearbox out I found several bolts holding the bell housing to the gearbox now leaking oil and the engine oil pan distorted at the rear causing another leak that was running down the back plate and dripping off the gearbox. I also found that when the engine was rebuilt, years ago in England, they did install a rear seal kit which seemed pretty dry. My plan is to change the oil pan to an after market aluminum unit rather then try and fiddle with the original steel pan. Pull the engine back plate and change its gasket. Check the rear main lip seal kit for leaks. Change the bell housing gasket to the gearbox , replace the gearbox input seal and reinstall the bell housing bolts with Loctite thread sealer. Replace the clutch disk, throwout bearing and lightly resurface the flywheel. Let me know what you think, hate to overlook something while its apart. Regards Wayne Schultz _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Sep 20 17:56:18 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 16:56:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? In-Reply-To: <8A790E58-9054-41F5-B13E-14F9F66308BB@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <65719.66378.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hey, this is a family list! Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 9/20/10, David Nock wrote: From: David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Munched? To: wilkmanracing at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 6:20 PM The solenoid is adjusted to move to far the clutch will jam against the anulus From rkorn at simnet.is Mon Sep 20 17:59:25 2010 From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 23:59:25 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 front brakes for Patrick References: <7ch5YSHINzlMFw1w@jharper.demon.co.uk><32D513BEC63B452FA8EB7B2D3A8B04EF@tm><4C977A1B.5010706@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <6716AB03DA23410394F1CA01009D3A00@velad> Patrick, I met a very nice guy by the name of Jim Simpson way back in my first year at BostonUniversity.He was in the theatre dept. and came from Hawaii, so I invited him to my folks for Thanksgiving and he saw snow for the first time.Alas I totally lost track of him after school but did see that he is happily married a certain actress by the name of Weaver. kvepja, Richard From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'Jaap Aeckerlin'" ; "'Shop at Just Brits'" ; "'Healey forum'" Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 9:12 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 front brakes > G'day Jaap > > Now I am confused. > > Personally I would rather talk further about Sigourney Weaver, but didn't > the Netherlands once have a Spanish king? > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Where we have a Queen of Australia and still think in feet, inches, > millimetres and metres From ggilliam at usol.com Mon Sep 20 19:37:20 2010 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:37:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine machinist Message-ID: <8269fe3feb0aa1f0ade561df25d0e886@usol.com> List, A while back I asked you for known Healey (Austin) engine machinists in my area....SE Mich. Someone responded with a name in Ohio I believe, but I could not make contact with that person at that time. Well, as you have probably figured out, I have lost track of that name, and could not find it in the archives either. Would you please send it to me again? Thanks, Gordy From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 20 19:41:23 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:41:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pictures Needed Message-ID: <001c01cb592e$1a011f80$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I am at the mercy of the list. I have a Moss luggage rack which you all know cause I have posted at length many times , lately. Moss has no answer as to why the luggage rack will not fit on my car because of the hinge pins. The hinge pin design is wrong. Could a few of you guys send a picture of what your hinge pins look like so I can figure out why these pins won't work. Moss looked into it a little bit but has know answer and state that they have had few complaints up to this point???? I would certainly like to use this classic piece on my car but so far it just isn't working out. Thanks in advance, Mark From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Sep 20 19:52:22 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:52:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Timing chain tensioner Message-ID: Well, after mounting the timing tensioner, my workshop manual says to release the tensioner for operation by turning the allen key anti- clockwise, which makes sense, because you've locked it up by turning it clockwise... so why on earth does the Haynes manual say " under no circumstances, turn the allen key anticlockwise, or force the slipper head into the chain.." Have they got this, like their strange description of front wheel bearing replacement, completely wrong? Stephen, BJ8 From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 20 21:40:34 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:40:34 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Craig (cjrice98@hotmail.co.uk) personally selected you to receive a Shop It To Me UK invitation In-Reply-To: <036a01cb58ec$bebaa420$3c2fec60$@verizon.net> References: <4c979bd8d956f_d64ea3592c51246@uk2.shopittome.co.uk.tmail> <036a01cb58ec$bebaa420$3c2fec60$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C982932.6030203@bradakis.com> I was sent a private message, but am responding to the list, I imagine a numbr of you are wondering the same thing. John Sims wrote: > How did this get through???? > > I'm not sure. There has been a recent rash of subscribers to various lists getting their email hijacked and having spam sent to lists using their email address. I don't know of a way to keep it from happening before it happens, I can only close the barn door after the horse is gone, and put hijacked members on moderated status. I'm refraining from offering my opinions on Microsoft products. mjb. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 21:48:53 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 20:48:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Craig (cjrice98@hotmail.co.uk) personally selected you to receive a Shop It To Me UK invitation In-Reply-To: <4C982932.6030203@bradakis.com> References: <4c979bd8d956f_d64ea3592c51246@uk2.shopittome.co.uk.tmail> <036a01cb58ec$bebaa420$3c2fec60$@verizon.net> <4C982932.6030203@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Aw come on tell us how you really feel. > I'm refraining from offering my opinions on Microsoft products. > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Sep 20 22:45:53 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:45:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. Message-ID: I have been having a drip that has gotten worse over the last year. A few years ago I replaced the paper gasket and it helped for a while. I could not get the bearing out at that time to replace the seal. Now I have no choice. Is there a simple way to get it out with out ruining the bearing? Thanks, Rich Kahn From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 20 22:55:48 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:55:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C983AD4.9050903@comcast.net> 1) pull the wheel, drum and axle 2) pull the hub off the axle housing (various methods available--check the archives) 3) use a hydraulic press to remove the bearing 4) replace the seal 5) press the bearing back into the hub (make sure it's still good) 6) replace the hub on the axle (axle press is best, can be done with suitable drift and hammer--helps to heat the hub and bearing) 7) replace axle, drum and wheel Might as well do both while you're at it. I'm assuming you're referring to a rear axle hub bearing. bs On 9/20/2010 9:45 PM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I have been having a drip that has gotten worse over the last year. A few > years ago I replaced the paper gasket and it helped for a while. I could not > get the bearing out at that time to replace the seal. Now I have no choice. Is > there a simple way to get it out with out ruining the bearing? > Thanks, > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Sep 20 22:55:55 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:55:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Update on hand brake Message-ID: The hand brake is now replaced with out complications. The cable broke at the front end. The clevis pin froze and didn't rotate with break application. With years of this it slowly broke down the cable. I guess it would be wise for us to add some lubricant when we grease the u-joints. Rich Kahn From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 20 22:58:42 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:58:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rich - That bearing is pretty tough - it is a double row bearing. It will come out easy by using your bench vise and a large socket as a press against the inner race. Alan On 9/21/10, Richard Kahn wrote: > I have been having a drip that has gotten worse over the last year. A few > years ago I replaced the paper gasket and it helped for a while. I could not > get the bearing out at that time to replace the seal. Now I have no choice. > Is > there a simple way to get it out with out ruining the bearing? > Thanks, > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Sep 20 23:30:54 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 22:30:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Sorry, Allen. I did not follow that. Can it be done with the axle in place? Rich Kahn > Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:58:42 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > Rich - > > That bearing is pretty tough - it is a double row bearing. > > It will come out easy by using your bench vise and a large socket as a > press against the inner race. > > Alan > > On 9/21/10, Richard Kahn wrote: > > I have been having a drip that has gotten worse over the last year. A few > > years ago I replaced the paper gasket and it helped for a while. I could not > > get the bearing out at that time to replace the seal. Now I have no choice. > > Is > > there a simple way to get it out with out ruining the bearing? > > Thanks, > > Rich Kahn > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Sep 21 00:21:55 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:21:55 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard - To replace the seal you must remove the half shafts and hub carrier. This is usually an easy job, takes less than 15 min - I can usually have a halfshaft out in 5 minutes from jacking the car up! Alan On 9/21/10, Richard Kahn wrote: > > Sorry, Allen. I did not follow that. Can it be done with the axle in place? > Rich Kahn > >> Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:58:42 +0800 >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. >> From: healey.nut at gmail.com >> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net >> >> Rich - >> >> That bearing is pretty tough - it is a double row bearing. >> >> It will come out easy by using your bench vise and a large socket as a >> press against the inner race. >> >> Alan >> >> On 9/21/10, Richard Kahn wrote: >> > I have been having a drip that has gotten worse over the last year. A >> > few >> > years ago I replaced the paper gasket and it helped for a while. I could >> > not >> > get the bearing out at that time to replace the seal. Now I have no >> > choice. >> > Is >> > there a simple way to get it out with out ruining the bearing? >> > Thanks, >> > Rich Kahn >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > >> >> -- >> Sent from my mobile device > -- Sent from my mobile device From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Sep 21 00:27:18 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:27:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey oil leak update In-Reply-To: <4C97E878.1030500@gmail.com> References: <4C97E878.1030500@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C985046.2010207@chello.nl> Check the bell housing carefully for cracks. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Sep 21 00:42:00 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:42:00 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C9853B8.5000705@chello.nl> The leaking of rear axles is often caused by a blocked air vent. I am not sure if such a vent is present on the AH axles, but most if not all LBC axles do have a small hole in the upper regions of the cast housing which gets blocked by dirt, paint, rust. It can be a dog to find that hole. Some have a tapped hole in which a small one way ball valve is fitted. This valve can become stuck because of dirt or corrosion. This air vent takes care of excess air pressure when the axle heats up, thus preventing oil being pushed past its seals. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Sep 21 08:04:32 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 07:04:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. In-Reply-To: <4C9853B8.5000705@chello.nl> References: , <4C9853B8.5000705@chello.nl> Message-ID: I believe there is a vent under a cap on the top right side of the axle. Thanks I will check that. Rich Kahn > Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:42:00 +0200 > From: coudesluijs at chello.nl > To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. > > The leaking of rear axles is often caused by a blocked air vent. I am > not sure if such a vent is present on the AH axles, but most if not all > LBC axles do have a small hole in the upper regions of the cast housing > which gets blocked by dirt, paint, rust. It can be a dog to find that > hole. Some have a tapped hole in which a small one way ball valve is > fitted. This valve can become stuck because of dirt or corrosion. > This air vent takes care of excess air pressure when the axle heats up, > thus preventing oil being pushed past its seals. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Sep 21 08:06:10 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 07:06:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. In-Reply-To: References: , , , Message-ID: Ah! Simple enough. Thanks. Rich Kahn > Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:21:55 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > Richard - > > > To replace the seal you must remove the half shafts and hub carrier. > This is usually an easy job, takes less than 15 min - I can usually > have a halfshaft out in 5 minutes from jacking the car up! > > Alan > > On 9/21/10, Richard Kahn wrote: > > > > Sorry, Allen. I did not follow that. Can it be done with the axle in place? > > Rich Kahn > > > >> Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:58:42 +0800 > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. > >> From: healey.nut at gmail.com > >> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > >> > >> Rich - > >> > >> That bearing is pretty tough - it is a double row bearing. > >> > >> It will come out easy by using your bench vise and a large socket as a > >> press against the inner race. > >> > >> Alan > >> > >> On 9/21/10, Richard Kahn wrote: > >> > I have been having a drip that has gotten worse over the last year. A > >> > few > >> > years ago I replaced the paper gasket and it helped for a while. I could > >> > not > >> > get the bearing out at that time to replace the seal. Now I have no > >> > choice. > >> > Is > >> > there a simple way to get it out with out ruining the bearing? > >> > Thanks, > >> > Rich Kahn > >> > _______________________________________________ > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net > >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > >> > > >> > >> -- > >> Sent from my mobile device > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device From rantal243 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 21 08:56:28 2010 From: rantal243 at yahoo.com (Richard Antal) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 07:56:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer Message-ID: <258282.29646.qm@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Greetings, A few weeks ago I described a problem with the OD; for years it would intermittently fail to engage when the dash switch was flipped. I thought I had solved that problem by correcting a faulty wire connection at the solenoid. I enjoyed a couple thousand miles of flawless OD function and suddenly the failure to engage reappeared and rapidly worsened over the course of a 50 mile drive, such that at the conclusion of the drive, the OD would never engage. A test light attached to the solenoid demonstrated that it was getting power every time I flipped the dash switch. Visual inspection while the car was at rest showed that the solenoid was lifting the plunger when power was applied. I replaced the solenoid and the problem has resolved. Does this mean that the solenoid can weaken with old age (like the rest of me) and loose it's ability to fully lift the plunger even though it can lift it part way? I can think of no other answer. And thanks to all who proffered advice.. rich antal And with regards to the recent discussion of the Munched Overdrive: my OD will disengage if I flip the dash switch up, but only if I also depress the accelerator slightly. This, as I understand it, is correct operation. However, if the OD is engaged and one comes to a stop and then shifts to reverse, the OD is still engaged because the accelerator has not been depressed. If then one slowly begins to reverse without depressing the accelerator sufficiently, the OD would be damaged. That seems to me to be a design flaw. From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Sep 21 09:22:30 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:22:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer In-Reply-To: <258282.29646.qm@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <258282.29646.qm@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <14F722CE-6C25-42F2-9059-95A880A1E2D8@cox.net> That would be the case IF there were no reverse cutoff switch. Once the gear lever is moved across the gate from 3, 4 to 1, 2, R, the switch cuts off power to the overdrive. Wilko San Diego Oh, the Solenoid has two coils. It is possible for it to operate with only the "holding" coil working. The "lifting" coil is usually the one to fry. > ...if the OD is engaged and one comes to a stop and then shifts to > reverse, the OD > is still engaged because the accelerator has not been depressed. If > then one > slowly begins to reverse without depressing the accelerator > sufficiently, the OD > would be damaged. That seems to me to be a design flaw. From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 09:43:56 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:43:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer In-Reply-To: <14F722CE-6C25-42F2-9059-95A880A1E2D8@cox.net> References: <258282.29646.qm@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <14F722CE-6C25-42F2-9059-95A880A1E2D8@cox.net> Message-ID: <4C98D2BC.80605@comcast.net> I've always blipped the throttle when I disengage the O/D, just like any other downshift (except I just lightly tap the clutch pedal). I never thought of it before, but this has the added benefit of making sure the O/D is disengaged before coming to a stop (and maybe shifting into reverse). However, I gotta think the O/D would disengage anyway when the RPMs drop to where the pump can no longer keep the O/D clutch disengaged. The exception is when you're following a slow vehicle at part-throttle, throw the O/D switch to off when you get a chance to pass, then hit the throttle to get a 'kickdown' when you punch it. Also, I bought a new, spare solenoid years ago so, obviously, the one that's installed will never fail. bs On 9/21/2010 8:22 AM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > That would be the case IF there were no reverse cutoff switch. Once > the gear lever is moved across the gate from 3, 4 to 1, 2, R, the > switch cuts off power to the overdrive. > > Wilko > San Diego > > > Oh, the Solenoid has two coils. It is possible for it to operate with > only the "holding" coil working. The "lifting" coil is usually the one > to fry. > >> ...if the OD is engaged and one comes to a stop and then shifts to >> reverse, the OD >> is still engaged because the accelerator has not been depressed. If >> then one >> slowly begins to reverse without depressing the accelerator >> sufficiently, the OD >> would be damaged. That seems to me to be a design flaw. > _______________________________________________ -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Sep 21 09:50:55 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:50:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer In-Reply-To: <4C98D2BC.80605@comcast.net> References: <258282.29646.qm@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <14F722CE-6C25-42F2-9059-95A880A1E2D8@cox.net> <4C98D2BC.80605@comcast.net> Message-ID: I follow the same blip procedure. I have never had issues in 30+ years of driving. I have od in 2_4 gear, most likely 1st too, just never tried it. BTW, the Locks have a cable throttle set up that bypasses the kick down function, and you must use the switch to disengage. David, do so have that right? On Sep 21, 2010 8:44 AM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: > I've always blipped the throttle when I disengage the O/D, just like any other downshift (except I just lightly tap > the clutch pedal). I never thought of it before, but this has the added benefit of making sure the O/D is disengaged > before coming to a stop (and maybe shifting into reverse). However, I gotta think the O/D would disengage anyway when > the RPMs drop to where the pump can no longer keep the O/D clutch disengaged. > > The exception is when you're following a slow vehicle at part-throttle, throw the O/D switch to off when you get a > chance to pass, then hit the throttle to get a 'kickdown' when you punch it. > > Also, I bought a new, spare solenoid years ago so, obviously, the one that's installed will never fail. > > > bs > > > > On 9/21/2010 8:22 AM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: >> That would be the case IF there were no reverse cutoff switch. Once >> the gear lever is moved across the gate from 3, 4 to 1, 2, R, the >> switch cuts off power to the overdrive. >> >> Wilko >> San Diego >> >> >> Oh, the Solenoid has two coils. It is possible for it to operate with >> only the "holding" coil working. The "lifting" coil is usually the one >> to fry. >> >>> ...if the OD is engaged and one comes to a stop and then shifts to >>> reverse, the OD >>> is still engaged because the accelerator has not been depressed. If >>> then one >>> slowly begins to reverse without depressing the accelerator >>> sufficiently, the OD >>> would be damaged. That seems to me to be a design flaw. >> _______________________________________________ > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Sep 21 10:40:31 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 18:40:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] removing the rear bearing. In-Reply-To: References: , <4C9853B8.5000705@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C98DFFF.7020707@chello.nl> That cap is probably the ball vent. These probably are the same as on land Rovers and over here easily available at Land Rover specialists for very little money. You may try ebay.co.uk as well. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From gaagten at hetnet.nl Tue Sep 21 11:17:22 2010 From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 19:17:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tech info Message-ID: Hi List, A friend of mine is rebuiding the engine of his morris minor. It is the same engine as used in the A-H sprite MK 2 and the MG midget MK 1. The engine is 1098 cc referred to as type 10CG. Following info is asked for: - Which is the diameter of the standard crankshaft as well as the tolerances. - If he wants to grind off the crankshaft, how many times would this be possible, which are then the resp. diameters and corresponding tolerances? - Which size of bearing should be used in this cases. Would be nice also to recieve these figures in the metrc system. Hope the question is clear? thanks and regards, Ge Aagten The Netherlands A-H BJ8 From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Tue Sep 21 11:53:54 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:53:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] bleacher collapse at race In-Reply-To: <7EBAB7C0A9684341A96C1862B716384B02DD7C5E@onottaxms1.AGR.GC.CA> References: <7EBAB7C0A9684341A96C1862B716384B02DD7C5E@onottaxms1.AGR.GC.CA> Message-ID: There are cameras everywhere these days. I saw this video on the news this morning. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/09/21/brazil-bleacher-collapse-_n_733139.h tml From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Sep 21 12:47:32 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 11:47:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bleacher collapse at race In-Reply-To: References: <7EBAB7C0A9684341A96C1862B716384B02DD7C5E@onottaxms1.AGR.GC.CA> Message-ID: amazingly I looked at 8 sites and no one mentioned the type of race. Does anyone know? thankfully not many were seriously injured. it does stoke my fear of bleachers and heights..... On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Robert Duquette < robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote: > There are cameras everywhere these days. > > > > I saw this video on the news this morning. > > > > > http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/09/21/brazil-bleacher-collapse-_n_733139.h > tml > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From warthodson at aol.com Tue Sep 21 13:00:14 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 15:00:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer In-Reply-To: <4C98D2BC.80605@comcast.net> References: <258282.29646.qm@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com><14F722CE-6C25-42F2-9059-95A880A1E2D8@cox.net> <4C98D2BC.80605@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD27D65BDE8739-848-A7D@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> If all is as it should be, when shifting into reverse it is not possible for the overdrive to be engaged. No blipping is necessary. This is also true for 1st gear in a 3 speed 100 and 1st & 2nd in all four speed Healey gear boxes with overdrive. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: Eric (Rick) Wilkins Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 21, 2010 10:43 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer I've always blipped the throttle when I disengage the O/D, just like any other downshift (except I just lightly tap the clutch pedal). I never thought of it before, but this has the added benefit of making sure the O/D is disengaged before coming to a stop (and maybe shifting into reverse). However, I gotta think the O/D would disengage anyway when the RPMs drop to where the pump can no longer keep the O/D clutch disengaged. The exception is when you're following a slow vehicle at part-throttle, throw the O/D switch to off when you get a chance to pass, then hit the throttle to get a 'kickdown' when you punch it. Also, I bought a new, spare solenoid years ago so, obviously, the one that's installed will never fail. bs = From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Tue Sep 21 13:46:54 2010 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:46:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Upside down 3000 at Sebring pictures Message-ID: <098E2B89EFCC1F40A63BBC6B403BFDDC08308063@PRGMBX07> http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?s=e83fbc5a3b08bf283a73db13fb286a13&show topic=135883 From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Sep 21 13:52:39 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 15:52:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tech info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD27DDAE5282B4-115C-46DF@webmail-d083.sysops.aol.com> Not sure if I'm remembering correctly and since I'm currently at work (but not breaking the use of internet rule). I think there are two different cranks used in the 1098 with different diameters, 1.75 inches and 2.0 inches in standard size. CG is the smaller one. Undersize bearings are usually available in increments of 0.010 inches up to 0.040 inch. Not sure about the recommended clearances. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Gaagten To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 21, 2010 7:17 am Subject: [Healeys] Tech info Hi List, A friend of mine is rebuiding the engine of his morris minor. It is the same engine as used in the A-H sprite MK 2 and the MG midget MK 1. The engine is 1098 cc referred to as type 10CG. Following info is asked for: - Which is the diameter of the standard crankshaft as well as the tolerances. - If he wants to grind off the crankshaft, how many times would this be possible, which are then the resp. diameters and corresponding tolerances? - Which size of bearing should be used in this cases. Would be nice also to recieve these figures in the metrc system. Hope the question is clear? thanks and regards, Ge Aagten The Netherlands A-H BJ8 From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Sep 21 13:58:38 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:58:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Upside down 3000 at Sebring pictures In-Reply-To: <098E2B89EFCC1F40A63BBC6B403BFDDC08308063@PRGMBX07> References: <098E2B89EFCC1F40A63BBC6B403BFDDC08308063@PRGMBX07> Message-ID: Wow. I didn't know UJB 141 rolled. Learn something every day. Thanks for posting. Rick Wilko On Sep 21, 2010, at 12:46 PM, Freese, Ken wrote: > http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?s=e83fbc5a3b08bf283a73db13fb286a13&show > topic=135883 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Tue Sep 21 17:09:51 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 09:09:51 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Upside down 3000 at Sebring pictures In-Reply-To: References: <098E2B89EFCC1F40A63BBC6B403BFDDC08308063@PRGMBX07> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C11AEE08@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day Plus if I recall correctly one of the 1964 cars also rolled during the event. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins Sent: Wednesday, 22 September 2010 5:59 AM Cc: healeys list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Upside down 3000 at Sebring pictures Wow. I didn't know UJB 141 rolled. Learn something every day. Thanks for posting. Rick Wilko On Sep 21, 2010, at 12:46 PM, Freese, Ken wrote: > http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?s=e83fbc5a3b08bf283a73db13fb286a > 13&show > topic=135883 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Tue Sep 21 17:40:29 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 16:40:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer In-Reply-To: <258282.29646.qm@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42325.5905.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Your solenoid will burn out after a few hours, if you fail to correctly set the rise and fall of the plunger. Follow the procedure to set the overdrive "operating valve". The correct adjustment requires loostening the 1/4 inch bolt with a 7/16 wrench on the 1/4 inch shaft running thru the overdrive. The book calls for the valve to rise 1/32 of an inch. When trhe valve is up, the solenoid plunger needs to be all the way up the solenoid body. In the top of the solenoid, there is a tiny switch that shuts off one of the two internal coils. Failure to get the plunger all the way up keeps the second coil activated resulting in premature coil burn-out. Best Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M --- On Tue, 9/21/10, Richard Antal wrote: From: Richard Antal Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2010, 7:56 AM Greetings, A few weeks ago I described a problem with the OD; for years it would intermittently fail to engage when the dash switch was flipped. I thought I had solved that problem by correcting a faulty wire connection at the solenoid. I enjoyed a couple thousand miles of flawless OD function and suddenly the failure to engage reappeared and rapidly worsened over the course of a 50 mile drive, such that at the conclusion of the drive, the OD would never engage. A test light attached to the solenoid demonstrated that it was getting power every time I flipped the dash switch. Visual inspection while the car was at rest showed that the solenoid was lifting the plunger when power was applied. I replaced the solenoid and the problem has resolved. Does this mean that the solenoid can weaken with old age (like the rest of me) and loose it's ability to fully lift the plunger even though it can lift it part way? I can think of no other answer. And thanks to all who proffered advice.. rich antal And with regards to the recent discussion of the Munched Overdrive: my OD will disengage if I flip the dash switch up, but only if I also depress the accelerator slightly. This, as I understand it, is correct operation. However, if the OD is engaged and one comes to a stop and then shifts to reverse, the OD is still engaged because the accelerator has not been depressed. If then one slowly begins to reverse without depressing the accelerator sufficiently, the OD would be damaged. That seems to me to be a design flaw. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Sep 21 17:42:46 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 16:42:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer In-Reply-To: <8CD27D65BDE8739-848-A7D@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> References: <258282.29646.qm@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <14F722CE-6C25-42F2-9059-95A880A1E2D8@cox.net> <4C98D2BC.80605@comcast.net> <8CD27D65BDE8739-848-A7D@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Maybe, but it sounds great! On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 12:00 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > If all is as it should be, when shifting into reverse it is not possible > for > the overdrive to be engaged. No blipping is necessary. > > > This is also true for 1st gear in a 3 speed 100 and 1st & 2nd in all four > speed Healey gear boxes with overdrive. > Gary > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: Eric (Rick) Wilkins > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Sep 21, 2010 10:43 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer > > > I've always blipped the throttle when I disengage the O/D, just like any > other > downshift (except I just lightly tap the clutch pedal). I never thought of > it > before, but this has the added benefit of making sure the O/D is disengaged > before coming to a stop (and maybe shifting into reverse). However, I gotta > think the O/D would disengage anyway when the RPMs drop to where the pump > can > no longer keep the O/D clutch disengaged. > > The exception is when you're following a slow vehicle at part-throttle, > throw > the O/D switch to off when you get a chance to pass, then hit the throttle > to > get a 'kickdown' when you punch it. > > Also, I bought a new, spare solenoid years ago so, obviously, the one > that's > installed will never fail. > > bs > > > > = > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From pennell at cox.net Tue Sep 21 18:18:35 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:18:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Upside down 3000 at Sebring pictures In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502C11AEE08@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <20100921201835.NDXHS.1880157.imail@eastrmwml44> In 1960? ---- "Quinn wrote: > G'day > > Plus if I recall correctly one of the 1964 cars also rolled during the event. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins > Sent: Wednesday, 22 September 2010 5:59 AM > Cc: healeys list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Upside down 3000 at Sebring pictures > > Wow. I didn't know UJB 141 rolled. > > Learn something every day. > > Thanks for posting. > Rick > Wilko > > On Sep 21, 2010, at 12:46 PM, Freese, Ken wrote: > > > http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?s=e83fbc5a3b08bf283a73db13fb286a > > 13&show > > topic=135883 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Sep 21 18:49:43 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:49:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN4 Demister Vents Message-ID: <3136732758D44DE39FCDB832B39618C2@LIFEBOOK> We have been doing research and can positively state a rather interesting detail.....that the earliest Longbridge built 6 cylinder cars (2 port BN4's) didn't use the demister vent slotted metal escutcheons (cover plates mounted with 3 pins) on the first cars at least until some time after B.326. Roger Moment researched B.153 and I have B.326 here and neither originally had the 3 holes in the shrouds or in the under support metal for mounting the metal escutcheons. It's interesting the very labour intensive feature they did; sewing an additional larger reinforcement piece of vinyl, sewn, tacked and glued under the dash to keep the slotted vinyl edges fastened down and intact. No wonder the procedure was soon dropped in production in favour of the metal escutcheon vents. This sends us on a further search to find evidence of how long this practice continued until the metal escutcheons were used. We know they were installed on B.1050 built 9 January, 1957. Can anybody else come up with evidence of the sewn demister slots, or early BN4 cars before Body 1050 (BN4 chassis 32036) showing the metal demister escutcheons in place, along with body number and build date if possible? Rich Chrysler From rpschauss at gmail.com Tue Sep 21 20:00:04 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:00:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer In-Reply-To: <42325.5905.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4c996326.6682e50a.7d39.78c0@mx.google.com> There is also an end float specification for the shaft which runs through the overdrive. If you don't allow enough end float, the solenoid will not be strong enough to overcome the friction. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim LeBlanc > Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 7:40 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net; Richard Antal > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer > > Your solenoid will burn out after a few hours, if you fail to correctly > set > the rise and fall of the plunger. Follow the procedure to set the > overdrive > "operating valve". > > The correct adjustment requires loostening the 1/4 inch bolt with a 7/16 > wrench on the 1/4 inch shaft running thru the overdrive. The book calls > for > the valve to rise 1/32 of an inch. When trhe valve is up, the solenoid > plunger > needs to be all the way up the solenoid body. In the top of the solenoid, > there is a tiny switch that shuts off one of the two internal coils. > Failure > to get the plunger all the way up keeps the second coil activated > resulting in > premature coil burn-out. > > Best Regards, > > Jim LeBlanc > 1956 100-M From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Sep 21 20:06:03 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:06:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer In-Reply-To: <4c996326.6682e50a.7d39.78c0@mx.google.com> References: <42325.5905.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4c996326.6682e50a.7d39.78c0@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <9EE5D09242794F5DBA4EE17B90264DE5@oscar> ..and replace the small o-ring oil seals at each end while you're there.. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Schauss Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 8:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intermittent OD:the answer There is also an end float specification for the shaft which runs through the overdrive. If you don't allow enough end float, the solenoid will not be strong enough to overcome the friction. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Sep 21 21:01:34 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 03:01:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?parts?= Message-ID: <20100922030134.23120.qmail@server278.com> have a set of front fender beading in pretty good shape for sale cheap. contact me off list if interested. hjim From coll44 at msn.com Wed Sep 22 00:11:55 2010 From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 02:11:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD problem In-Reply-To: <20100920090011.PNI33.88608.root@pamxwww05-z01> References: , <20100920090011.PNI33.88608.root@pamxwww05-z01> Message-ID: I originally put Redline MT-90 in my gearbox/od and it worked fine. I was advised via this list that Redline MTL was better for the gearbox/od, so, i changed to that and the leaks (minor) began. I just stuck with the MTL and keep it topped up and its working great. Terry Coll '64 BJ8 P2 > Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:00:11 -0400 > From: tomfelts at windstream.net > To: racarbon at verizon.net; ruvino at ripnet.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD problem > > FWIW, that happened to me once with 30W oil. I've used the Redline for years now without any problems. > > > ---- Ray Carbone wrote: > > ============= > Hi Carl, > > If I remember correctly, in a previous post a few months back addressing OD > fluid, a reference was made to a website of an OD rebuilder that did some > tests on the effects of different fluids. One of the test fluids was Red Line > MTL which represented the class of synthetic fluids. The result of their test > indicated that, though MTL proved to be one of the best for our ODs, the fluid > would find its way out of the OD through every known, and some new, places. > > When I first switched to MTL90, my OD worked very smoothly for the first few > days of use and then would not stay engaged until it stopped engaging > altogether. Upon investigation, I found fluid had leaked into, and filled, > the solenoid housing with the solenoid piston partially filled with fluid. > After draining the fluid from the housing and cleaning and reinstalling the > solenoid, I buttoned up the unit and it has worked fine ever since. I did no > top up the OD as I felt it arrived at an equilibrium level with sufficient > capacity to perform properly. > > All the best, > Ray Carbone (64BJ8P1) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coll44 at msn.com From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Sep 22 00:51:14 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 22 Sep 2010 08:51:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Intermittent_OD=3Athe_answer?= Message-ID: Rich, does that mean that you also lost your ability to fully lift your plunger with age? ;-) Eric Greetings, ... Does this mean that the solenoid can weaken with old age (like the rest of me) and loose it's ability to fully lift the plunger even though it can lift it part way? I can think of no other answer. And thanks to all who proffered advice.. rich antal From timwarduk at aol.com Wed Sep 22 05:03:36 2010 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:03:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs Message-ID: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> Hi List I hope this request does not outrage the purists. I would like to fit LED Bulbs to replace the incandescent bulbs in the Stop, Side, and Indicator lights, and a map reader I have fitted. I already have Halogen Bulbs in the headlights. LED Lights are so much brighter than normal bulbs. Does anyone know if this is possible, and if it is, where there is a source of appropriate bulbs? Thanks as ever Tim BJ8 1967 Frogeye 1959 Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk www.Shuttermagic.co.uk www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 22 05:20:07 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 06:20:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> Message-ID: <4C99E667.9020103@justbrits.com> TONS in Archives, Tim. Ed From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 22 05:28:21 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 07:28:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] parts References: <20100922030134.23120.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <000801cb5a49$43ac7840$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Can you fold it up and slip it in a smaller mailer to save on shipping? Thanks Mark )))))))))))) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 11:01 PM Subject: [Healeys] parts > have a set of front fender beading in pretty good shape for sale cheap. > contact me off list if interested. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From CAWS52803 at aol.com Wed Sep 22 06:07:36 2010 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 08:07:36 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Early BN4 Demister Vents Message-ID: <18532d.2d08b8d3.39cb4b88@aol.com> I have about a dozen or more cars in the Registry that precede BN4 32036, including one from you Rich. This information is kept confidential as many owners do not want their car info made public. I don't keep email addresses, but do have the owner's name, address and phone numbers and could contact them. Rudy Streng 100/Six Registry From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 22 06:14:40 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:14:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> Message-ID: <4C99F330.6060200@chello.nl> Of course it is possible but there are snags. The light patern of LED bulbs is totally different from the normal or halogen bulbs, therefore the reflector in the lamp housing and the lamp lense may not function properly, resulting in poor visibility. Try on one side and you will see what I mean. I tried them on my daily driver but was not impressed and took them out again. If you change the indicator lights you will also have the change the original indicator relay as it will not function with low consumption LED bulbs. For experimenting get some LED bulbs in Hongkong through Ebay. They are dirt cheap and that includes the shipping. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Wed Sep 22 08:16:54 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:16:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Spin on oil filter Message-ID: Has anyone experienced a slight drop in oil pressure (3-5lbs) when they installed the Moss spin on oil filter adapter? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 08:26:03 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 07:26:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spin on oil filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C9A11FB.6000205@comcast.net> I didn't. I wouldn't think the adapter would cause a pressure drop--it just extends the mounting on the block and adds the screw-on nipple (unless it's defective somehow; e.g. holes don't line up). Maybe it's the filter--what brand are you using? bs On 9/22/2010 7:16 AM, S and T Miller wrote: > Has anyone experienced a slight drop in oil pressure (3-5lbs) when they > installed the Moss spin on oil filter adapter? > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed Sep 22 08:50:56 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 07:50:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Valuation Question Message-ID: <001501cb5a65$9002a400$b007ec00$@ca> A question for the list. Based upon past collective experience, what is a Fair Market Price for the following: 1. '67 2.9ltr Healey Engine - does not require rebuild but needs seals. Bare block and head. 2. '67 Healey Transmission and overdrive - fully functioning but needs new seals. 3. Set of '67 SU carbs for '67 Healey - freshly rebuilt and Perfect. 4. '67 Healey Radiator..Perfect condition Thanks for the feedback Paul From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Sep 22 08:53:06 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 07:53:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> Message-ID: Check the archived, do an internet search It's Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA On Sep 22, 2010 4:04 AM, "Tim Ward" wrote: > Hi List > > I hope this request does not outrage the purists. > > > > I would like to fit LED Bulbs to replace the incandescent bulbs in the Stop, > Side, and Indicator lights, and a map reader I have fitted. I already have > Halogen Bulbs in the headlights. LED Lights are so much brighter than normal > bulbs. > > > > Does anyone know if this is possible, and if it is, where there is a source > of appropriate bulbs? > > > > Thanks as ever > > > > Tim > > BJ8 1967 > > Frogeye 1959 > > > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > > > www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk > > www.Shuttermagic.co.uk > > www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 08:59:35 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 07:59:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Spin on oil filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <193272.84997.qm@web32908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> A couple of years ago I installen one on my AH 62 3000 MkII. After installing it there was no oil pressure. I removed it made sure I installed it correctly and re-installed it making sure the holes lined up in the correct position, filled the filter with oil. Again no oil pressure. I then re-installed the OEM oil filter and I once again had normal oil pressure. I then removed the OEM oil filter and re-installed the spin-on with the filter full of oil. I removed the oil line from the back of the Oil Pressure gage. Started the engine and there was no oil coming out of the oil pressure line. Re-installed the OEM filter and started the engine. In less than two seconds oil spurted out of the oil pressure line. Attached the oil pressure line and started the engine again. Normal Oil Pressure. Go figure. I have no explanation. I do have a spin on oil filter on my 100-6 with which I've never had a problem. Ron Mitchell ________________________________ From: S and T Miller To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, September 22, 2010 10:16:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] Spin on oil filter Has anyone experienced a slight drop in oil pressure (3-5lbs) when they installed the Moss spin on oil filter adapter? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Sep 22 09:06:56 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 08:06:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Valuation Question In-Reply-To: <001501cb5a65$9002a400$b007ec00$@ca> References: <001501cb5a65$9002a400$b007ec00$@ca> Message-ID: ::: scratches head::: huh? An engine that does not require a rebuild is quite a bit different than a bare block and head. A bare block and head are two rather large (and heavy) chunks of cast iron. An engine that does not need rebuilding is assembled, and has things like a crankshaft, pistons, rods, bearings, a cam shaft and all that good stuff that a bare bock and head does not have. the value of the two are quite a bit different. Rick On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 7:50 AM, PG wrote: > A question for the list. > > > > Based upon past collective experience, what is a Fair Market Price for the > following: > > > > 1. '67 2.9ltr Healey Engine - does not require rebuild but needs > seals. Bare block and head. From austinbj8 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 10:06:43 2010 From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 09:06:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Head set for sale Message-ID: <65960.62149.qm@web34504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello fellow listers, I have a Payen gasket set, part # CD891 for sale. If any one has any interest please contact me off list. TIA, John Gillespie From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Wed Sep 22 10:12:00 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:12:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Another spin on oil filter question Message-ID: I would really like to change to a spin on filter adapter that would let the filter sit upright as in this pic from british car forum: http://www.charter.net/news/read.php?rip_id=%3CD9ICQP8G0%40news.ap.org%3E&ps=1011 or http://tinyurl.com/28zwzyf All of my Camrys had this arrangement. Could change filter in under a minute with no mess. Google isn't getting me anywhere. anyone have any ideas? Bob Johnson BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 22 10:20:10 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:20:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Valuation Question In-Reply-To: References: <001501cb5a65$9002a400$b007ec00$@ca> Message-ID: <4C9A2CBA.4070804@justbrits.com> << ::: scratches head::: huh? >> Ditto, Rick !! << the value of the two are quite a bit different. >> And depending on HOW the latter of your comments Rick, REALLY makes above sentence meaningful !!! Ref the former part of paragraph has block & crank been MagnaFluxed ?? "Boiled" out sans freeze plugs ?? Block painted?? crank 'cut' an undersize ?? FAR to many questions UN-answered, Paul !! Ref Paul's # 3 - carbs: WHO "rebuilt" & made "perfect". "Opinion" vary in ref to re-builders !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 22 10:32:37 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:32:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another spin on oil filter question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C9A2FA5.8070104@justbrits.com> << All of my Camrys had this arrangement. Could change filter in under a minute with no mess. >> Sorry Bob, I don't buy dat one - mess wise !! Upside down HAS to leave a small 'mess' !! I have altered close to 2 dozen MGB from that type to hanging much to Owners' delight !!! Want the EASIEST & LEAST messy?? Buy another canister type like came with motor. Have completely set-up and ready to go. One [1] gasket for block-to-adaptor and a finger-smears of sealer on it = DONE in a FLASH !!! And NO muss NO fuss !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Sep 22 10:35:32 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 09:35:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Another spin on oil filter question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: looks like just another way to make a stinking mess when I change the oil. Hanging down would be better IMHO On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Bob Johnson wrote: > I would really like to change to a spin on filter adapter that would > let the filter sit upright as in this pic from british car forum: > > > http://www.charter.net/news/read.php?rip_id=%3CD9ICQP8G0%40news.ap.org%3E&ps=1011 > > or http://tinyurl.com/28zwzyf > > All of my Camrys had this arrangement. Could change filter in under a > minute with no mess. > > Google isn't getting me anywhere. anyone have any ideas? > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed Sep 22 11:11:20 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:11:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Valuation Question In-Reply-To: References: <001501cb5a65$9002a400$b007ec00$@ca> Message-ID: <002b01cb5a79$2d7cfe20$8876fa60$@ca> What I meant to mean is that the engine does not include generator, distributor and carbs..everything else included and functional. Was a perfectly running engine 12 months ago. From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 8:07 AM To: PG Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts Valuation Question ::: scratches head::: huh? An engine that does not require a rebuild is quite a bit different than a bare block and head. A bare block and head are two rather large (and heavy) chunks of cast iron. An engine that does not need rebuilding is assembled, and has things like a crankshaft, pistons, rods, bearings, a cam shaft and all that good stuff that a bare bock and head does not have. the value of the two are quite a bit different. Rick On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 7:50 AM, PG wrote: A question for the list. Based upon past collective experience, what is a Fair Market Price for the following: 1. '67 2.9ltr Healey Engine - does not require rebuild but needs seals. Bare block and head. From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Sep 22 12:11:09 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 20:11:09 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BMW 503 -- off topic, but worth looking at Message-ID: This is very much off topic, but they are _very_ rare: http://tinyurl.com/3ywqc4g I am surprised it landed on ebay. It was ob BaT few days back. Tadek From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Sep 22 12:38:57 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 20:38:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable bracket connecting piece Message-ID: <9D491745AE3748AF8256D820E114E59B@tm> Hello, I am missing the choke bracket 'screw' that holds the end of the choke cable (the piece that attaches to the black bracket spreading between 2 carbs.) Anyone by any chance has one handy and could take few pictures with measurements? It's made out of: - screw (I need length, diameter and the dimensions of the hole that holds the choke cable) - nut (self locking, 1/4"?) - anything else? Many thanks! Tadek From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 13:32:40 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:32:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BMW 503 -- off topic, but worth looking at Message-ID: <717955.31722.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Beautiful. Thanks for the heads up. I forwarded it to my BMW buddy. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 22, 2010, at 12:11 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: This is very much off topic, but they are _very_ rare: http://tinyurl.com/3ywqc4g I am surprised it landed on ebay. It was ob BaT few days back. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Sep 22 13:33:12 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:33:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Valuation Question In-Reply-To: <002b01cb5a79$2d7cfe20$8876fa60$@ca> References: <001501cb5a65$9002a400$b007ec00$@ca> <002b01cb5a79$2d7cfe20$8876fa60$@ca> Message-ID: If it goes from valve cover to oil pan and from timing cover to back complete the correct term is long block. Sounds like you are selling a long block. Rick If you are not including the head or oil pan it is a short block. On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 10:11 AM, PG wrote: > What I meant to mean is that the engine does not include generator, > distributor and carbs.everything else included and functional. Was a > perfectly running engine 12 months ago. > > > > *From:* Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com] > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 22, 2010 8:07 AM > *To:* PG > *Cc:* Healey List > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Parts Valuation Question > > > > ::: scratches head::: huh? > > An engine that does not require a rebuild is quite a bit different than a > bare block and head. A bare block and head are two rather large (and > heavy) chunks of cast iron. An engine that does not need rebuilding is > assembled, and has things like a crankshaft, pistons, rods, bearings, a cam > shaft and all that good stuff that a bare bock and head does not have. > > the value of the two are quite a bit different. > > Rick > > On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 7:50 AM, PG wrote: > > A question for the list. > > > > Based upon past collective experience, what is a Fair Market Price for the > following: > > > > 1. '67 2.9ltr Healey Engine - does not require rebuild but needs > seals. Bare block and head. From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Sep 22 13:47:55 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:47:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable bracket connecting piece In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <0EBC958BE8524F1790760B65476A7162@tm> Great Fred, many thanks! Is the hole for the cable all the way 2.57mm or is it smaller at the end just for the wire? Best, Tadek _____ From: Fred Wescoe [mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 9:35 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Subject: Re: [Healeys] choke cable bracket connecting piece Tadek, Some additional info; The bolt/screw fits into a cylinder that captures the end of the cable. The outside diameter of that cylinder is .2465 in or 6.26 mm. The cylinder length is .4270 in or 10.84 mm. The size of the hole into which the cable fits is .2475 in or 2.57 mm. That is about all I can tell you at the moment. Ask any other questions you might have. Fred On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 3:07 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Tadek, If you are sitting at your desk, I have the assembly in front of me and can answer questions. According to my micrometer, the screw is 0.1645 in or 4.17 mm in diameter. The length of the screw is (threads only) .03710 in or 9.42 mm. The diameter of the hole it fits into (the bracket on the firewall) is .260 in or 6.61 mm. I cannot give you the thread size however (no gage). Does this help? I have pictures of the set up if you need that. Fred 63 BJ7 On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 2:38 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: Hello, I am missing the choke bracket 'screw' that holds the end of the choke cable (the piece that attaches to the black bracket spreading between 2 carbs.) Anyone by any chance has one handy and could take few pictures with measurements? It's made out of: - screw (I need length, diameter and the dimensions of the hole that holds the choke cable) - nut (self locking, 1/4"?) - anything else? Many thanks! Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com From willig at wtnet.de Wed Sep 22 13:55:16 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:55:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 oil/water gauge in celsius In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001701cb5a90$14424930$3cc6db90$@de> I wonder if the 100 was delivered to "non-Fahrenheit" markets with a water temperature instrument calibrated in celsius. The original parts list mentions only one, most probably "Fahrenheit", instrument. I wonder if this was really the case, because this would have been very unusual for cars that were destined for the European main land. Regards Thomas Willig From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 22 18:47:15 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:47:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Memorabilia For Sale Message-ID: <4C9AA393.6070503@justbrits.com> ALL will GO at end of the month, folks. PERIOD !! http://www.justbrits.com/ads/Memo_F_S.html I will have another couple sets of Mags. up ASAP. WILL be LESS money than on FleaBay !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Sep 22 19:39:34 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 09:39:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 oil/water gauge in celsius In-Reply-To: <001701cb5a90$14424930$3cc6db90$@de> References: <001701cb5a90$14424930$3cc6db90$@de> Message-ID: Thomas - I have an early BN1, in the first batch shipped to Canada in 1953. It has a Celsius temp guage. I suspect it is original to the car, but I can't be sure. Alan On 9/23/10, T+ B Willig wrote: > I wonder if the 100 was delivered to "non-Fahrenheit" markets with a water > temperature instrument calibrated in celsius. The original parts list > mentions only one, most probably "Fahrenheit", instrument. I wonder if this > was really the case, because this would have been very unusual for cars that > were destined for the European main land. > > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From mdoust at allstream.net Wed Sep 22 19:53:13 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (mdoust) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:53:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: 100 oil/water gauge in celsius Message-ID: <002701cb5ac2$15c505e0$414f11a0$@net> What Canada only changed in the 70's to the metric system Cheers Mark -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: September-22-10 9:40 PM To: T+ B Willig; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 oil/water gauge in celsius Thomas - I have an early BN1, in the first batch shipped to Canada in 1953. It has a Celsius temp guage. I suspect it is original to the car, but I can't be sure. Alan On 9/23/10, T+ B Willig wrote: > I wonder if the 100 was delivered to "non-Fahrenheit" markets with a water > temperature instrument calibrated in celsius. The original parts list > mentions only one, most probably "Fahrenheit", instrument. I wonder if this > was really the case, because this would have been very unusual for cars that > were destined for the European main land. > > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mdoust at allstream.net From ahpowered at hotmail.com Wed Sep 22 21:11:28 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 22:11:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Heat! Looking for exhaust recommendations Message-ID: Hey gang, Now that I have the Healey back running it is billowing heat. I don't have the carpet back in yet. Anyone have a recommendation for isolating the muffler heat? I don't have anything between the floor and the exhaust. If you have photos of what you used please send. Also let me know how you installed it and attached it to the underside of the car. I am also looking for an inexpensive material to put under the carpet and recommendations on how I should attach it. This interior is temporary so I am trying not to spend much on materials until I am ready for resto. I just want to drive it for now. THANKS, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 22 22:31:40 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 23:31:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Heat! Looking for exhaust recommendations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C9AD82C.6060809@justbrits.com> << Anyone have a recommendation for isolating the muffler heat? I don't have anything between the floor and the exhaust. If you have photos of what you used please send. Also let me know how you installed it and attached it to the underside of the car. >> Don't you have Moss Part # 021-776 - Heat Shield, exhaust in place, Scott ?? Ditto the 021-688 Kit ?? Does help. << Now that I have the Healey back running it is billowing heat. I don't have the carpet back in yet. >> Poor baby !! Put the std. insulation and carpet in and drive it !! I've covered a LOT of this GREAT Country in Hortense LONG before DynaMat, etal was even invented. So what ?? I WANTED to drive her and wanted to go places. ONE 'solution' --- DO IT !! So I did - er, oops, and mostly with G.F. now Wife Cindy !! The pics in "Various Articles" [ I think ] of Conclave '89 were taken either by me or Cindy and we got there in Hortense, huh Rich !! That was Rich's TV year !!! And we "taught" the bar manager that closing at 10:30PM was UN-healthy with the Healey crowd due in, huh Rich ?? LOL !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 05:08:28 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 04:08:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 oil/water gauge in celsius Message-ID: <297963.52370.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> My bn2 has kph in the speedo and farenheith in the dual. It is of french descent, lived his adult life in the US and now is planning to retire in Colombia, after mayor face lifts, botox treatments and other cirgucical matters. I have no reasons to believe that was not the original dual gauge.... Just plain british manufacturing .... Fit whatever you find on the shelf. Sent from my iPad On Sep 22, 2010, at 8:39 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: Thomas - I have an early BN1, in the first batch shipped to Canada in 1953. It has a Celsius temp guage. I suspect it is original to the car, but I can't be sure. Alan On 9/23/10, T+ B Willig wrote: I wonder if the 100 was delivered to "non-Fahrenheit" markets with a water temperature instrument calibrated in celsius. The original parts list mentions only one, most probably "Fahrenheit", instrument. I wonder if this was really the case, because this would have been very unusual for cars that were destined for the European main land. Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Sep 23 05:41:39 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 19:41:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> Message-ID: Tim - A couple things to keep in mind here. 1) LED lights almost exclusively need to work with negative ground, so your car must be negative ground. 2) LEDs come in all kinds, and the cheaper variety are almost always dimmer than a standard 1157 bulb. This means you must buy a proper LED bulb. I have looked the world over for good bulbs, and have found only one supplier that consistently provides a superior product. It is these guys: http://superlumination.com/1156_1157.htm Their first listing on the page looks quite interesting (it's new), very bright and has a proper taper to the bulb to fit in the 1157 socket. They ship worldwide. If their system won't let you ship to the Uk, just send them an email and they will sort it out. I have them send stuff to Hong Kong all the time. Not cheap, but the product is the best stuff on the market. Brighter than Halogen bulbs - actually if you look at it straight it can hurt your eyes. Perfect for our cars that have little tiny lenses. Cheers, Alan On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 7:03 PM, Tim Ward wrote: > Hi List > > I hope this request does not outrage the purists. > > > > I would like to fit LED Bulbs to replace the incandescent bulbs in the Stop, > Side, and Indicator lights, and a map reader I have fitted. I already have > Halogen Bulbs in the headlights. LED Lights are so much brighter than normal > bulbs. > > > > Does anyone know if this is possible, and if it is, where there is a source > of appropriate bulbs? > > > > Thanks as ever > > > > Tim > > BJ8 1967 > > Frogeye 1959 > > > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > > > www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk > > www.Shuttermagic.co.uk > > www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Sep 23 06:41:50 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 08:41:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> Message-ID: <002201cb5b1c$b1f00460$15d00d20$@verizon.net> Not necessarily. My third brake light installation uses LEDs and my car is Positive ground. You just have to find them. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 7:42 AM To: Tim Ward Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs Tim - A couple things to keep in mind here. 1) LED lights almost exclusively need to work with negative ground, so your car must be negative ground. 2) LEDs come in all kinds, and the cheaper variety are almost always dimmer than a standard 1157 bulb. This means you must buy a proper LED bulb. I have looked the world over for good bulbs, and have found only one supplier that consistently provides a superior product. It is these guys: http://superlumination.com/1156_1157.htm Their first listing on the page looks quite interesting (it's new), very bright and has a proper taper to the bulb to fit in the 1157 socket. They ship worldwide. If their system won't let you ship to the Uk, just send them an email and they will sort it out. I have them send stuff to Hong Kong all the time. Not cheap, but the product is the best stuff on the market. Brighter than Halogen bulbs - actually if you look at it straight it can hurt your eyes. Perfect for our cars that have little tiny lenses. Cheers, Alan On From ruvino at ripnet.com Thu Sep 23 06:41:26 2010 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 08:41:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problems Message-ID: <9FCEFA5BE74942BD84E20912D72886CF@HPp6520f> A number of you provided possible solutions to my overdrive not functioning properly after 4 hours of driving. I had everything set to check (a friend even provided me with a new solenoid and relay to try) when I decided to take it out for a little run just to see...... Well the overdrive worked. It seems to me (my memory isn't as good as it used to be) that I had the same problem a couple of years back and it was also after a very long run. This suggests to me that. although my car runs cool, something is responding to heat or very frequent use. I will be checking all electrical connections but would appreciate any other thoughts. Carl BN-4 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 23 06:47:33 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:47:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com> Message-ID: <4C9B4C65.8060307@chello.nl> Alan, I have to disagree with you here. Brightness plays a role but more important is the light pattern the bulb gives. A traditional bulb radiates from a point (spiral glow wire) and the lamps reflector and or lens are designed to transform the emitted light from this point into a specific beam. This necessitates that the spiral in the bulb is always in exactly the same position, which is guaranteed by the various standards like DIN / EN / BSI / SAE etc. The problem is that the LED bulbs do not radiate from a point, but from a much larger area and also in the wrong position which makes it impossible for the lamp reflector or lens to cope with and shape it into the intended beam, resulting in very poor visibility. An easy check is to fit the rear lamps of one side of the car with LED bulbs and the other with the standard bulb and watch the difference in daylight!! These LED bulbs can only be used safely in lamps designed specifically for them. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From rjswain at hotmail.com Thu Sep 23 07:09:28 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 13:09:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <4C9B4C65.8060307@chello.nl> References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com>, , <4C9B4C65.8060307@chello.nl> Message-ID: Check out this web site: www.litezupp.com It seems like they have the use of LEDs figured out. Rick'59 BN4 > > Alan, > I have to disagree with you here. > Brightness plays a role but more important is the light pattern the bulb > gives. > These LED bulbs can only be used safely in lamps designed specifically > for them. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From rpschauss at gmail.com Thu Sep 23 07:32:17 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 09:32:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problems In-Reply-To: <9FCEFA5BE74942BD84E20912D72886CF@HPp6520f> References: <9FCEFA5BE74942BD84E20912D72886CF@HPp6520f> Message-ID: When I had a similar problem I solved it by replacing the o-rings on the accumulator. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 8:41 AM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > A number of you provided possible solutions to my overdrive not functioning > properly after 4 hours of driving. > > I had everything set to check (a friend even provided me with a new solenoid > and relay to try) when I decided to take it out for a little run just to > see...... Well the overdrive worked. It seems to me (my memory isn't as good > as it used to be) that I had the same problem a couple of years back and it > was also after a very long run. > > This suggests to me that. although my car runs cool, something is responding > to heat or very frequent use. I will be checking all electrical connections > but would appreciate any other thoughts. > > Carl > BN-4 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 23 07:41:18 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:41:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com>, , <4C9B4C65.8060307@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C9B58FE.3010301@chello.nl> I am afraid not. Still the same problem. Try looking for an official SAE, DIN, BSI etc. approval for the applications we are talking about. AFAIAC there are none!! Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 08:02:50 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 07:02:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com>, , <4C9B4C65.8060307@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C9B5E0A.8080003@comcast.net> Good stuff, but although they mention Brit cars--esp. Triumphs--there's no mention I could find on polarity. I assume they require neg. ground. bs On 9/23/2010 6:09 AM, Rick Swain wrote: > Check out this web site: www.litezupp.com > It seems like they have the use of LEDs figured out. > Rick'59 BN4 > >> Alan, >> I have to disagree with you here. >> Brightness plays a role but more important is the light pattern the bulb >> gives. >> These LED bulbs can only be used safely in lamps designed specifically >> for them. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL > _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From timwarduk at aol.com Thu Sep 23 08:19:04 2010 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:19:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <4C9B5E0A.8080003@comcast.net> References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com>, , <4C9B4C65.8060307@chello.nl> <4C9B5E0A.8080003@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00d401cb5b2a$4842c300$d8c84900$@com> Hi Bob I have looked at the site and they have both negative and positive bulbs of the same type. Tim -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 23 September 2010 3:03 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs Good stuff, but although they mention Brit cars--esp. Triumphs--there's no mention I could find on polarity. I assume they require neg. ground. bs On 9/23/2010 6:09 AM, Rick Swain wrote: > Check out this web site: www.litezupp.com > It seems like they have the use of LEDs figured out. > Rick'59 BN4 > >> Alan, >> I have to disagree with you here. >> Brightness plays a role but more important is the light pattern the bulb >> gives. >> These LED bulbs can only be used safely in lamps designed specifically >> for them. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL > _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/timwarduk at aol.com From mdoust at allstream.net Thu Sep 23 08:22:52 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (mdoust) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 10:22:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <4C9B58FE.3010301@chello.nl> References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com>, , <4C9B4C65.8060307@chello.nl> <4C9B58FE.3010301@chello.nl> Message-ID: <003801cb5b2a$cfaf7e50$6f0e7af0$@net> Greetings just to light up your day I sell a line of Halogen bulbs designed for the use in our cars. I carry most styles in stock 1157, Spot light, 6V and bikes The fitting of our specialist Halogen will not only improve your head or tail lights brightness but will also retain the original integrity of your lamps. A range of types from as low as 3 watt up to 65 watt and a comprehensive range of original old type bulb bases, will mean that there is a bulb "tailor made" for your vehicle. Whether it's an Austin 7, a Packard there is a bulb that will fit perfectly. With the huge range of bulbs available from our product list, one can be chosen that will not over tax your generating system or damage your lamps or lenses in any way. Why Halogen? The modern Halogen bulb is much brighter than its tungsten counterpart of the same wattage or current drain. The technology used to make Halogen bulbs means they are far more efficient than old type bulbs resulting in a brighter/whiter light. This results in a brighter light than a tungsten bulb with the same current drain. For example a 6v 35w tungsten bulb draws just under 6 amps and gives a, somewhat, yellow light. On the other hand a Halogen 35w bulb gives a far brighter/whiter light and still uses the same current as its tungsten equivalent. I bring these in and have fitted to my 100-4 with no problems. They are not cheap. Contact me off list for more info mdoust at allstream.net Cheers Mark From gmandas at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 08:49:02 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 07:49:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <003801cb5b2a$cfaf7e50$6f0e7af0$@net> Message-ID: <741399.22151.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Do you have a web site? --- On Thu, 9/23/10, mdoust wrote: > From: mdoust > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thursday, September 23, 2010, 10:22 AM > Greetings just to light up your day > > I sell a line of Halogen bulbs designed for the use in our > cars. I carry > most styles in stock 1157, Spot light, 6V and > bikes > > The fitting of our specialist Halogen will not only improve > your head or > tail lights brightness but will also retain the original > integrity of your > lamps. > > A range of types from as low as 3 watt up to 65 watt and a > comprehensive > range of original old type bulb bases, will mean that there > is a bulb > "tailor made" for your vehicle. > > Whether it's an Austin 7, a Packard there is a bulb that > will fit perfectly. > With the huge range of bulbs available from our product > list, one can be > chosen that will not over tax your generating system or > damage your lamps or > lenses in any way. > > Why Halogen? > The modern Halogen bulb is much brighter than its tungsten > counterpart of > the same wattage or current drain. The technology used to > make Halogen bulbs > means they are far more efficient than old type bulbs > resulting in a > brighter/whiter light. This results in a brighter light > than a tungsten bulb > with the same current drain. For example a 6v 35w tungsten > bulb draws just > under 6 amps and gives a, somewhat, yellow light. On the > other hand a > Halogen 35w bulb gives a far brighter/whiter light and > still uses the same > current as its tungsten equivalent. > > > I bring these in and have fitted to my 100-4 with no > problems. They are not > cheap. > > Contact me off list for more info > > mdoust at allstream.net > > > > > Cheers > > Mark From jstmorris at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 08:53:38 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 07:53:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Heat! Looking for exhaust recommendations In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <554551.50596.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Scott; Check out page 23 and the page 9 of the latest issue of British Motoring put out by Moss Motors. A copy is attached or you can find it at: http://www.britishmotoring.net/current_issue/2010_Summer.pdf --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7 J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 9/22/10, scott willis wrote: << Hey gang, Now that I have the Healey back running it is billowing heat. I don't have the carpet back in yet. Anyone have a recommendation for isolating the muffler heat? I don't have anything between the floor and the exhaust. If you have photos of what you used please send. Also let me know how you installed it and attached it to the underside of the car. I am also looking for an inexpensive material to put under the carpet and recommendations on how I should attach it. This interior is temporary so I am trying not to spend much on materials until I am ready for resto. I just want to drive it for now. >> From jemann58 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 09:07:14 2010 From: jemann58 at yahoo.com (john mann) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 08:07:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] fuel gauge Message-ID: <639263.77576.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Has any one had a good experience with having a fuel Gage rebuilt? If you have could you send information to me. Thanks and have a nice day. John Mann From 55healey at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 09:47:34 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 08:47:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heat! Looking for exhaust recommendations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott, My inexpensive response was to use a closed cell foam anti-fatigue runner material that I found at Lowes. It is 36" wide and 3/8" thick, any length, medium gray color. A few bucks a foot. Cuts like butter and will lie down on the floor without any glue and fasteners. It works well as a sound insulator as well as a heat barrier, comes out in a blink to dry out after running through rainstorms like I did last weekend. Not concours or permanent if you want to replace it later. Rob Westcott (425) 644-9590 > > I am also looking for an inexpensive material to put under the > carpet and > recommendations on how I should attach it. This interior is > temporary so I am > trying not to spend much on materials until I am ready for resto. I > just want > to drive it for now. > > THANKS, > > Scott Willis From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Sep 23 09:58:46 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 08:58:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heat! Looking for exhaust recommendations In-Reply-To: <554551.50596.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <554551.50596.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <65A43A07-C0C3-4B08-9EA9-AF05D19D1339@cox.net> what also works well (better) than stock material is to use modern style heat shielding. Simple sheet metal held off the chassis areas or bracketed to the tailpipe/mufflers with air gaps between the pipes and/ or body panels. Wilko From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 23 10:00:53 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 18:00:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] fuel gauge In-Reply-To: <639263.77576.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <639263.77576.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C9B79B5.3060306@chello.nl> Try this fellow, perhaps he can help by reconditioning your old unit or replacing it altogether. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/the-gauge-shop Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 10:16:52 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 09:16:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <4C9B5E0A.8080003@comcast.net> References: <001d01cb5a45$cf339aa0$6d9acfe0$@com>, , <4C9B4C65.8060307@chello.nl> <4C9B5E0A.8080003@comcast.net> Message-ID: <396424.34935.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Obviously, request is reqd on + ground. Note: if anyone wants new {one package unbroken & other with pack} superbright LED bulbs(clear but bright yellow when on), w/19 LEDs ea, fornegative ground ; I ordered without knowing they would not lite up in my + grd BJ8. These are 1156 turn signal-single contact . Less than my cost: $4. ea. plus $2 ft(paypal) lower usa only. not going to rewire car to run these bulbs nor pay to return them to company; this is what I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380252288224 offline only. below is info recd from the Superlumination site in thread: Hi- Yes- We have the 1156 and 1157 60 led with + ground. http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm Please paste this note in the notes section along with your order to assure we send the + ground version: "Please ship + ground only per Chris" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, September 23, 2010 10:02:50 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs Good stuff, but although they mention Brit cars--esp. Triumphs--there's no mention I could find on polarity. I assume they require neg. ground. bs On 9/23/2010 6:09 AM, Rick Swain wrote: > Check out this web site: www.litezupp.com > It seems like they have the use of LEDs figured out. > Rick'59 BN4 > >> Alan, >> I have to disagree with you here. >> Brightness plays a role but more important is the light pattern the bulb >> gives. >> These LED bulbs can only be used safely in lamps designed specifically >> for them. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL > _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rdryman1 at yahoo.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 23 10:19:58 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 18:19:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Heat! Looking for exhaust recommendations In-Reply-To: <65A43A07-C0C3-4B08-9EA9-AF05D19D1339@cox.net> References: <554551.50596.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <65A43A07-C0C3-4B08-9EA9-AF05D19D1339@cox.net> Message-ID: <4C9B7E2E.1040200@chello.nl> What can be used is a thin highly polished stainless steel plate fitted to the the floor between floor and heat source (engine, gearbox, exhaust) on small rubber mounts/silent blocks with threaded holes both sides and using small screws or bolts. Shape the plate following the floor if necessary. If you do not want to dril holes you may even try to fit the plate to the floor with a few large blobs of PU sealant and keep it in place for a day. Make sure everything has been cleaned very well with white spirit and alcohol before applying the sealant. Be quick, you only have a minute or so before the sealant starts to form a skin and does not stick anymore. It should be heat resistant enough. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 11:46:04 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 10:46:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Heat! Looking for exhaust recommendations In-Reply-To: <554551.50596.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <554551.50596.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <647651.28690.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Healey Marque had an excellent article on heat-reducing insulation several months ago; don't have my stack in front of me now; perhaps someone else has the issue #. I have insulated extensively and have absolutely no problem with heat; but was 'shot-down' with the new materials and techniques used in this article. Very professional ! My insulation was done 25 years ago~~~ remember these: radiation, conduction, and infiltration. ________________________________ --- On Wed, 9/22/10, scott willis wrote: << Hey gang, Now that I have the Healey back running it is billowing heat................... From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 11:55:43 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 10:55:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs Message-ID: <94977.23206.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Must have to tell them Positive Ground. below is info just recd from the Superlumination site in thread: Hi- Yes- We have the 1156 and 1157 60 led with + ground. http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm Please paste this note in the notes section along with your order to assure we send the + ground version: "Please ship + ground only per Chris" ------------------------------------------------------------ Note: if anyone wants new {one package unbroken & other with pack} superbright LED bulbs(clear but bright yellow when on), w/19 LEDs ea, for negative ground ; I ordered two (2) without knowing they would not lite up in my + grd BJ8. These are 1156 turn signal-single contact . Less than my cost: $4. ea. plus $2 frt; lower usa only(paypal)--. not going to rewire car to run these bulbs nor pay to return them to company; this is what I bought & have: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380252288224 offline only. _________________________________________________ From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Thu Sep 23 11:58:37 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 19:58:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] fuel gauge In-Reply-To: <639263.77576.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <639263.77576.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, a fuel gauge is no more than a simple voltmeter. Any decent instrument maker should be able to repair or overhaul such an animal. The MG Guru has an excellent website story on fuel gauges. Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/9/23 john mann > Has any one had a good experience with having a fuel Gage rebuilt? If you > have > could you send information to me. Thanks and have a nice day. > > John Mann > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Sep 23 12:20:46 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:20:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problems In-Reply-To: <9FCEFA5BE74942BD84E20912D72886CF@HPp6520f> References: <9FCEFA5BE74942BD84E20912D72886CF@HPp6520f> Message-ID: Carl, The evidence all points to hot and therefore thinning oil working past the accumulator O rings that have likely lost most of their life and resiliency, having turned almost to a hard and brittle plastic like consistency and can't seal as well as they used to. The new oil may well have triggered the situation to show up at this point in time. Good news is they cost less than $1 apiece and only the gearbox cover needs to come off the car and the the gearbox mounts released from the chassis. A gentle lift at the back of the gearbox, overdrive area will clear the side cover to get at the accumulator piston. Drain the gearbox / overdrive oil, undo and remove the left side cover of the overdrive unit and remove the Piston from it's bore, renew the two orings and reassemble everything. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 8:41 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problems > A number of you provided possible solutions to my overdrive not > functioning > properly after 4 hours of driving. > > I had everything set to check (a friend even provided me with a new > solenoid > and relay to try) when I decided to take it out for a little run just to > see...... Well the overdrive worked. It seems to me (my memory isn't as > good > as it used to be) that I had the same problem a couple of years back and > it > was also after a very long run. > > This suggests to me that. although my car runs cool, something is > responding > to heat or very frequent use. I will be checking all electrical > connections > but would appreciate any other thoughts. > > Carl > BN-4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 23 12:31:39 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 13:31:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problems In-Reply-To: References: <9FCEFA5BE74942BD84E20912D72886CF@HPp6520f> Message-ID: <4C9B9D0B.9060801@justbrits.com> SHOOT Rich, you took ALL..... <> the FUN out of the job !! !!! Carl, just IGNORE that step !!! . . . . . In a major hurry one day a LONG, LONG time ago.......... !! BTDT - DOH !!! Drain the fluid?? What a concept !!!! Anon '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From f9cougar at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 13:28:31 2010 From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 12:28:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <94977.23206.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <245875.5054.qm@web112008.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I think we have to use little flourescent bulbs now. Better check with the EPA. - JRC --- On Thu, 9/23/10, Richard Dryman wrote: From: Richard Dryman Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, September 23, 2010, 10:55 AM Must have to tell them Positive Ground. below is info just recd from the Superlumination site in thread: Hi- Yes- We have the 1156 and 1157 60 led with + ground. http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm Please paste this note in the notes section along with your order to assure we send the + ground version: "Please ship + ground only per Chris" ------------------------------------------------------------ Note: if anyone wants new {one package unbroken & other with pack} superbright LED bulbs(clear but bright yellow when on), w/19 LEDs ea, for negative ground ; I ordered two (2) without knowing they would not lite up in my + grd BJ8. These are 1156 turn signal-single contact . Less than my cost: $4. ea. plus $2 frt; lower usa only(paypal)--. not going to rewire car to run these bulbs nor pay to return them to company; this is what I bought & have: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380252288224 offline only. _________________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f9cougar at yahoo.com From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu Thu Sep 23 13:46:18 2010 From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 12:46:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard finish, BJ8 Message-ID: I have cracks in the finish of my BJ8 dashboard. Any finishing ideas? What chemicals are in the original finish -- it doesn't seem to respond to normal furniture refinishing chemicals. Thanks From shop at justbrits.com Thu Sep 23 15:48:58 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 16:48:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Light Bulbs In-Reply-To: <245875.5054.qm@web112008.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <245875.5054.qm@web112008.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C9BCB4A.7000700@justbrits.com> << I think we have to use little flourescent bulbs now. Better check with the EPA.>> You forgot NIHTSA, John !! OSHA most likely has a 'say' also, think ?!?!? Wouldn't surprise me if FAA had a hand in it either !! Curt ?? Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at:www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Sep 24 03:02:01 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 11:02:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B5BEF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Here`s a question to the Concours experts. How much would be the deduction (how many points) in Concours when a car is fitted with a higher quality carpet than original karvel? Still in original colour. How much would be the deduction when a car has got an allover leather trim (side panels, seat backs, dashboard etc.) instead of the vinyl used originally? I just like to know how you treat those deviations to original specs. Many thanks to the Concours guys. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Fri Sep 24 04:45:39 2010 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 06:45:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B5BEF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B5BEF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: I'm not a concours expert but the points deduction have nothing to do with higher or lower quality carpet . The deduction are concerning 1st. originality and 2nd, condition. Then for the carper you will loose ????. pts for the orig. and no pts for the condition if it is in top shape. Concerning the interior trim i think they are judge separatly that mean you will lose a couple of pts for originality . If you buy the concours guideline you will know exacly how much pts you will loose or not loose Cheers gilbert Le 10-09-24 ` 05:02, a icrit : > Here`s a question to the Concours experts. > How much would be the deduction (how many points) in Concours when a > car is > fitted with a higher quality carpet than original karvel? Still in > original > colour. > How much would be the deduction when a car has got an allover > leather trim > (side panels, seat backs, dashboard etc.) instead of the vinyl used > originally? > I just like to know how you treat those deviations to original specs. > Many thanks to the Concours guys. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Sep 24 05:28:00 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:28:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B5BEF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B5BEF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: Josef, There are standard deductions for carpet that is other than the original Kar-vel. The new Karvel we see today has a standard deduction of 5 points, while a wool blend in cut pile is also a standard 5 point deduction. Nylon cut pile is 10 points while any loop pile is 15 points. Wilton wool is 7 point deduction. A car trimmed in leather everywhere where vinyl was original application would be deducted on every panel and surface that takes place. As Gilbert pointed out, these deductions would be for lack of originality, while if the colour and application, fit, etc. was neat and clean, there should be no loss for condition. I just went down the scoring page for interior and soft trim and quickly found a loss of at least 19 points for a BN1 or BN2 if it was fully trimmed in leather. I would wonder why somebody would do that on purpose if their intention was to have it judged in our National Concours Registry criteria. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 5:02 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) > Here`s a question to the Concours experts. > How much would be the deduction (how many points) in Concours when a car > is > fitted with a higher quality carpet than original karvel? Still in > original > colour. > How much would be the deduction when a car has got an allover leather trim > (side panels, seat backs, dashboard etc.) instead of the vinyl used > originally? > I just like to know how you treat those deviations to original specs. > Many thanks to the Concours guys. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Sep 24 06:51:31 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:51:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] colorado red code needed In-Reply-To: <4C9259F1.3060200@justbrits.com> References: <1677956422.1341706.1284657334699.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <012001cb55c7$4de3d1e0$e9ab75a0$@verizon.net>, <4C9259F1.3060200@justbrits.com> Message-ID: What I think is that I didn't read anywhere when I signed up that questions could only be asked once. I'm guessing that the rational behind the "it was asked and answered once before, so don't dare ask" thinking is that we could never discover any new ways of doing things, new products could never be offered or improved anywhere, and the members' knowledge is redundant and unnecessary at this point because it's all stored online and in books. ( not dissing technology and/or books. I couldn't live without google at this point, and I have very high regard for the people who make the information available. ) Maybe to further that thinking, we could set up the list to not post any new input and instead just autoreply with "Check the ARCHIVES!"? In a nutshell, I just think it's rude and anti-social to routinely direct people to the archives, especially when there is a simple answer AND it has already been supplied. I can understand when it's a complex issue and the people here give their opinion and suggest that for the full range of opinions they might check the archives as there has been discussion on the issue before. Or, you know, when it appears that no-one is answering, you might suggest to the person that it has been discussed before and they may find the answer they're looking for in the archives? And if you really have the time to just chastize someone for asking a question, maybe you have the time to search the archives for them? ( If you know it's in the archives perhaps you remember a good keyword to find the info with. ) Anyway, you asked what I thought ... Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > > << The Pikovnik book has it as Mfg Code RD.02, ICI code 3742 >> > > AND John, I would also mention to Mitch that the Archives > contain not only YOUR info above at least a couple DOZEN > times, but the Code for Col. Red prolly close to double that !! > > > Whatcha think ??? > > ED From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Sep 24 07:10:10 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 15:10:10 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) In-Reply-To: References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B5BEF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B60B9@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Rich, Many thanks for your detailed answer. Only your answer gives me more questions. When I restore a car and reassemble it as nice as possible, lets say to make a Show Car, I would go to better quality material as originally used. Otherwise keeping the car with its original equipment, just to spend more time in fixing all right and tidy, better as the factory has done it. Coming back to Concours, that means I can't take this car to Concours, as it would not even reach bronze level. And on the other hand a car reaching gold level in Concours can be seen by a non Concours expert as of "average" quality. So when I want to insure both cars, the inspector of the insurance company, who does not know anything about Concours correctness would valuate the gold level car much lower than the "Show Car". Here in Germany potential buyers are looking very close to the valuation of the insurance company to get a feeling of the value of a classic car. I am just looking for any reason of a car owner to go the hard way of Concours restoration. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Gesendet: Freitag, 24. September 2010 13:28 An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) Josef, There are standard deductions for carpet that is other than the original Kar-vel. The new Karvel we see today has a standard deduction of 5 points, while a wool blend in cut pile is also a standard 5 point deduction. Nylon cut pile is 10 points while any loop pile is 15 points. Wilton wool is 7 point deduction. A car trimmed in leather everywhere where vinyl was original application would be deducted on every panel and surface that takes place. As Gilbert pointed out, these deductions would be for lack of originality, while if the colour and application, fit, etc. was neat and clean, there should be no loss for condition. I just went down the scoring page for interior and soft trim and quickly found a loss of at least 19 points for a BN1 or BN2 if it was fully trimmed in leather. I would wonder why somebody would do that on purpose if their intention was to have it judged in our National Concours Registry criteria. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 5:02 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) > Here`s a question to the Concours experts. > How much would be the deduction (how many points) in Concours when a > car is fitted with a higher quality carpet than original karvel? Still > in original colour. > How much would be the deduction when a car has got an allover leather > trim (side panels, seat backs, dashboard etc.) instead of the vinyl > used originally? > I just like to know how you treat those deviations to original specs. > Many thanks to the Concours guys. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Sep 24 07:53:25 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:53:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) In-Reply-To: References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B5BEF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>, , <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B60B9@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>, Message-ID: I know that you're not asking me, but, for my insurance coverage in Canada, I have to supply an appraisal done by a certified appraiser. In my neck of the woods, that would mean that I have to make sure that he knows what I've got, so that he can evaluate its worth properly. If you have a car that has won a 'gold' concours prize, that would go a long way to letting them know what you have, I would think. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com > > Rich, > Many thanks for your detailed answer. > Only your answer gives me more questions. > When I restore a car and reassemble it as nice as possible, lets say to make a > Show Car, I would go to better quality material as originally used. Otherwise > keeping the car with its original equipment, just to spend more time in fixing > all right and tidy, better as the factory has done it. > Coming back to Concours, that means I can't take this car to Concours, as it > would not even reach bronze level. And on the other hand a car reaching gold > level in Concours can be seen by a non Concours expert as of "average" > quality. > So when I want to insure both cars, the inspector of the insurance company, > who does not know anything about Concours correctness would valuate the gold > level car much lower than the "Show Car". Here in Germany potential buyers are > looking very close to the valuation of the insurance company to get a feeling > of the value of a classic car. > I am just looking for any reason of a car owner to go the hard way of Concours > restoration. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Sep 24 12:28:13 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 20:28:13 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3B9E1090212645B2956892C8332ECC55@tm> Rich, So, you are saying that the Karvel carpet currently produced for example by Heritage has 5pts of deduction? I presume then that only the original carpet gets 0 deductions. That's pretty tough!.. Where on earth can you dig out a NOS carpet??? Purely hypothetical in my case as far as attending US concourse, but I might meet Josef at some meet in Europe eventually :-) Best, Tadek From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Fri Sep 24 12:43:54 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:43:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] colorado red code needed In-Reply-To: References: <1677956422.1341706.1284657334699.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <012001cb55c7$4de3d1e0$e9ab75a0$@verizon.net> <4C9259F1.3060200@justbrits.com> Message-ID: RD2 On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 7:51 AM, Robert Duquette < robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote: > What I think is that I didn't read anywhere when I signed up that questions > could only be asked once. I'm guessing that the rational behind the "it > was > asked and answered once before, so don't dare ask" thinking is that we > could > never discover any new ways of doing things, new products could never be > offered or improved anywhere, and the members' knowledge is redundant and > unnecessary at this point because it's all stored online and in books. ( > not > dissing technology and/or books. I couldn't live without google at this > point, and I have very high regard for the people who make the information > available. ) > > > > Maybe to further that thinking, we could set up the list to not post any > new > input and instead just autoreply with "Check the ARCHIVES!"? > > > > In a nutshell, I just think it's rude and anti-social to routinely direct > people to the archives, especially when there is a simple answer AND it has > already been supplied. > > > > I can understand when it's a complex issue and the people here give their > opinion and suggest that for the full range of opinions they might check > the > archives as there has been discussion on the issue before. Or, you know, > when > it appears that no-one is answering, you might suggest to the person that > it > has been discussed before and they may find the answer they're looking for > in > the archives? > > > > And if you really have the time to just chastize someone for asking a > question, maybe you have the time to search the archives for them? ( If > you > know it's in the archives perhaps you remember a good keyword to find the > info > with. ) > > > > Anyway, you asked what I thought ... > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > > > > > << The Pikovnik book has it as Mfg Code RD.02, ICI code 3742 >> > > > > AND John, I would also mention to Mitch that the Archives > > contain not only YOUR info above at least a couple DOZEN > > times, but the Code for Col. Red prolly close to double that !! > > > > > > Whatcha think ??? > > > > ED > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From HealeyHundred at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 13:47:43 2010 From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:47:43 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Interior available Message-ID: Hi All, I am cleaning out my garage and have the original interior from by Spruce Green Hundred BN1. If you or anyone that you know would like it, if you would pay the cost of shipping, I will be happy for it to go to a good home rather than just throwing it out. It will get tossed next week. Hardware is missing. It could be used to show how things were made, but not a good candidate for use. Please let me know ASAP one way or the other. I will also be offering a list of other items in the near future. Some from a BT7, some a BN1 and some from a BJ8. Let me know if you are in need of something in particular prior to the list being posted sometime in the next 2 to 3 weeks. Thanks, Richard Richard Gordon Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club 1830 South Newport Street Denver, Colorado 80224 Home 303-756-7427 Cell 303-913-1171 HealeyHundred at comcast.net From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Sep 24 14:34:56 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 22:34:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) In-Reply-To: References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B5BEF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120152B60B9@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A034460120160AF324@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Rich, I have no complains to judging as you do. I also would give a car full points which is as close as possible to factory spec, except panel allignment is far from what I think is achievable by a good restorer. But as a perfectionist (my friends call me mad in this), I would not go that way with my own cars, as there is plenty you can do in a more sophisticated way as the factory did, like the engine was painted all over which does not fulfil my high standard I set for my cars or on early 100s the tonneau cover size, which is too small, or the many parts which are just primered or even left without any paint reached or the underfelt material used on the trim or the evenness of the door, boot lid gaps alignment of cockpit rails, wheel arches which does not follow the contour of the wheels depending on the workers were in good mood at Jensens etc., which is far from what I call acceptable. Sorry I am a perfectionist in this way. Good thing here is, my additional work is appreciated at least by the valuation of the insurance companies which give the car a much higher value as a comparable car which would be as the Healeys left the factory. So I am just just looking for any aguments giving a restorer to go with original factory specification. Josef -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Gesendet: Freitag, 24. September 2010 19:25 An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: AW: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) Josef, The detail and quality of the original car (earlier is more labour intensive therefore more so) was actually quite high. Unfortunately over the years this level of original quality has been lost with after market poor quality and fit of kits and amateurs (the owners) installing them. A truly accurate and faithful to original materials and methods interior is a very good product that will (at lest here in North America) always demand higher selling prices, and actually usually be recognized even by the amateur observer as being the one to vote for in a popular choice event, and will be regarded as far above "average". When judged by our National Concours Registry criteria, the original type materials and methods, colours, etc. will of course score the highest due to their accuracy and their condition. The custom over restored materials and features that seem to attract the points in a European criteria judging just isn't the case here in North America. Therefore, I really cannot comment on what the best choice is for someone as yourself living in Germany and being amongst a completely different judging criteria. Rich From coll44 at msn.com Fri Sep 24 14:55:37 2010 From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:55:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo Message-ID: List, Need some help with a possible generator problem on my BJ8. Started getting an engine noise (sounded like an external rattle) which I was pretty sure was coming from my rebuilt generator. Removed gen and took to my local charging shop to bench test and they said the generator was fine. Added some oil to the back, reinstalled and fired it up. Still had the rattle and shut it down after a minute or two. Noticed smoke coming out of the rear of the generator and called my charging shop to inquire what might be going on. They said the volt regulator (a new one installed last year) could be stuck and to disconnect the battery, which I did. The smoke cleared and thats where I'm at. Any thoughts appreciated. Regards, Terry Coll 64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Sep 24 17:06:19 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 07:06:19 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Terry - Open the VR and see if any of the points are melted together. Common problem. You can try separating them, filing and re-adjusting. Alan On 9/25/10, TERRY COLL wrote: > List, > > Need some help with a possible generator problem on my BJ8. Started getting > an engine noise (sounded like an external rattle) which I was pretty sure > was > coming from my rebuilt generator. Removed gen and took to my local charging > shop to bench test and they said the generator was fine. Added some oil to > the back, reinstalled and fired it up. Still had the rattle and shut it > down > after a minute or two. Noticed smoke coming out of the rear of the > generator > and called my charging shop to inquire what might be going on. They said > the > volt regulator (a new one installed last year) could be stuck and to > disconnect the battery, which I did. The smoke cleared and thats where I'm > at. > > Any thoughts appreciated. > > Regards, Terry Coll 64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 24 17:48:29 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:48:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C9D38CD.202@justbrits.com> << You can try separating them, filing and re-adjusting. >> And FWIW, FYI, NFI, YMWNV , the 'file' is a "Points File" available in blister-pac at all Big Box Auto Stores. I have seen for $1.59/pr to $2.49/pr. Good for several uses and one of those tools that should be in you "Traveling Kit". Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at:www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Sep 24 18:09:36 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 20:09:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: AW: Questin to Trim (Concours) Message-ID: <06388C0225344611B3A756FB10266547@LIFEBOOK> Josef, The detail and quality of the original car (earlier is more labour intensive therefore more so) was actually quite high. Unfortunately over the years this level of original quality has been lost with after market poor quality and fit of kits and amateurs (the owners) installing them. A truly accurate and faithful to original materials and methods interior is a very good product that will (at lest here in North America) always demand higher selling prices, and actually usually be recognized even by the amateur observer as being the one to vote for in a popular choice event, and will be regarded as far above "average". When judged by our National Concours Registry criteria, the original type materials and methods, colours, etc. will of course score the highest due to their accuracy and their condition. The custom over restored materials and features that seem to attract the points in a European criteria judging just isn't the case here in North America. Therefore, I really cannot comment on what the best choice is for someone as yourself living in Germany and being amongst a completely different judging criteria. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 9:10 AM To: ; Subject: AW: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) Rich, Many thanks for your detailed answer. Only your answer gives me more questions. When I restore a car and reassemble it as nice as possible, lets say to make a Show Car, I would go to better quality material as originally used. Otherwise keeping the car with its original equipment, just to spend more time in fixing all right and tidy, better as the factory has done it. Coming back to Concours, that means I can't take this car to Concours, as it would not even reach bronze level. And on the other hand a car reaching gold level in Concours can be seen by a non Concours expert as of "average" quality. So when I want to insure both cars, the inspector of the insurance company, who does not know anything about Concours correctness would valuate the gold level car much lower than the "Show Car". Here in Germany potential buyers are looking very close to the valuation of the insurance company to get a feeling of the value of a classic car. I am just looking for any reason of a car owner to go the hard way of Concours restoration. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Sep 24 18:30:51 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 20:30:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) In-Reply-To: <3B9E1090212645B2956892C8332ECC55@tm> References: <3B9E1090212645B2956892C8332ECC55@tm> Message-ID: <5DF42D48DECD438294FB755D599BC96B@LIFEBOOK> Tadek, As with anything being collected and evaluated, there are a handful of people out there who either have truly original, or have found some original Karvel carpet. because it is humanly possible for an individual to show up with this stuff, we simply have to allow a certain margin so it earns no deduction (depending of course on condition). All other carpet must follow from there. Yes, that is pretty tough and tough is what a Gold level is all about. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 2:28 PM To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Questin to Trim (Concours) > Rich, > > So, you are saying that the Karvel carpet currently produced for example > by > Heritage has 5pts of deduction? I presume then that only the original > carpet > gets 0 deductions. That's pretty tough!.. Where on earth can you dig out a > NOS carpet??? > > Purely hypothetical in my case as far as attending US concourse, but I > might > meet Josef at some meet in Europe eventually :-) > > > Best, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Sep 24 18:44:39 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:44:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] tri carb parts needed Message-ID: Hello, I just got home from Bill Bolton's place. We spent the day swapping lies and stories, and locating the parts I needed to complete my Tri-Carb set up. I still need the three choke mechanism that sits on top of the balance pipe, all cables and mounting bits. If you have the parts of a good lead on who might have it please contact me off list eyera3 at gmail.com Thanks. I also have a complete HD6 dual carb BT7 set up for sale. Carbs have less than a 1000 miles on professional rebuild. comes with intake/exhaust manifolds, air cleaners, and gasket sets. What is the whole shooting match worth? Fire away Ed..... -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 19:52:49 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:52:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] colorado red code needed Message-ID: <706630.76364.qm@web53003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I will be posting the mixing formula for the following paint colours Colorado Red RD2 British racing green- darker GN25 Ice blue on our web site. These colours were computer matched from the original 1 owner cars and are exact matches. The paint company is BASF. The formulas are current. This information will be posted within the next 4 days. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Sep 24 20:16:41 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 19:16:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo In-Reply-To: <4C9D38CD.202@justbrits.com> References: <4C9D38CD.202@justbrits.com> Message-ID: While I agree that points files used to be on every parts counter, I have this funny feeling that if I went to a big box store and asked for one, I would be shown to the auto body tools section. Either that or I would be given a real WTF look by the employee. Don't forget the kid working there has probably never seen a set of points cause he was born 20+ years after they were discontinued. R On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 4:48 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << You can try separating them, filing and re-adjusting. >> > > And FWIW, FYI, NFI, YMWNV , the 'file' is a "Points File" available in > blister-pac at all Big Box Auto Stores. I have seen for $1.59/pr to > $2.49/pr. > Good for several uses and one of those tools that should be in you > "Traveling Kit". > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] > Please visit MY site at:www.justbrits.com with a LOT of > Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 24 20:41:00 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:41:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo In-Reply-To: References: <4C9D38CD.202@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C9D613C.2080609@justbrits.com> Geesh Rick, now I'm "gettin" it from YOU !?! <> I said NOTHING like above !! << I have this funny feeling that if I went to a big box store and asked for one, I would be shown to the auto body tools section. >> Yep and I SAID: ...available in blister-pac at all Big Box Auto Stores. I don't think this List does NOT know what a "Blister-pac" is and I would wager majority would think one would be hanging on a hook !! << Either that or I would be given a real WTF look by the employee. >> Close to 99.9999999999% correct. <> Sort of hard not to since for the past 35+ years I've been driving El Caminos [God, do I miss Amber] and have actually asked for things like points, Condensers, Rotors [which type of caliper do you need], etc. etc. for actual, Honest-to-God Made in America Chevys !! Clueless [Seattle is not in universe] in MOST Big Boxes. Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From shop at justbrits.com Fri Sep 24 23:05:09 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 00:05:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! Message-ID: <4C9D8305.8070103@justbrits.com> For those of you that have NOT seen this car on Marty Jansen's site, all I can say [besides to each his/her own] is W O W !!!!!!!!! http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id63.html Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 00:29:06 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 23:29:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey Message-ID: not everyone's cup of tea but i think it looks great but looks like they ran out of interest when it got to the seats. ron On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 10:05 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > > For those of you that have NOT seen this car on Marty Jansen's > site, all I can say [besides to each his/her own] is W O W !!!!!!!!! > > http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id63.html > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] > Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Sep 25 02:01:32 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 10:01:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C9DAC5C.60407@chello.nl> What I like is the incredible neatness of the engine bay and in fact of all the (re)fitting of parts. Pity about the position of the air filter, this should be in a cold air area. I do not care about all the shiny bits, hurts me eyes, and the interior is indeed "an aquired (dis)taste". I shudder when I look at the steering wheel and its protruding boss. Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 25 06:10:12 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 08:10:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor Message-ID: Yesterday I drove up to North Jersey (3 hrs each way) to help out a fellow AHSTC member who hasn't been able to drive his 3000 in 2 years. In test driving his car, he had a VERY loud "gun shot" type backfire when you tried to maintain a speed under very little load. Also a slight miss at various times. I went through everything- adjust carbs, checked ign wires, timing, etc. He previously sent the dist. to Advance dist and had it rebuilt and installed the Pertronix electronic ignition (with adv dist good rotor). Finally I swapped out the dist. with another, standard points/ cond dist. and it ran great. I only swapped out the dist. and not the cap and wires. I also used the good (adv dist) rotor in both circumstances. So it has to be the dist body that was rebuilt or the Pertronix ign. I did check to make sure the Pert. ign was installed per the instructions and checked the weights and springs in the dist and everything seemed fine. Also his car is pos ground the the Pertonix ign system was for the pos ground car. Any thoughts? Good news is that he can use the car for now until he has to return the borrowed dist to another AHSTC member. Thanks, Shawn The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 06:21:49 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 20:21:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The pertonix ignitor will be as far as 15 to 20 deg out from a points distributor, so you have to check timing using the strobe each time you swap out the dizzys. Also check the caps and rotor, you may have a bar rotor or cap in there. Alan On 9/25/10, S and T Miller wrote: > Yesterday I drove up to North Jersey (3 hrs each way) to help out a fellow > AHSTC member who hasn't been able to drive his 3000 in 2 years. In test > driving his car, he had a VERY loud "gun shot" type backfire when you tried > to > maintain a speed under very little load. Also a slight miss at various > times. > I went through everything- adjust carbs, checked ign wires, timing, etc. He > previously sent the dist. to Advance dist and had it rebuilt and installed > the > Pertronix electronic ignition (with adv dist good rotor). Finally I swapped > out the dist. with another, standard points/ cond dist. and it ran great. I > only swapped out the dist. and not the cap and wires. I also used the good > (adv dist) rotor in both circumstances. So it has to be the dist body that > was rebuilt or the Pertronix ign. I did check to make sure the Pert. ign > was > installed per the instructions and checked the weights and springs in the > dist > and everything seemed fine. Also his car is pos ground the the Pertonix > ign > system was for the pos ground car. Any thoughts? > > Good news is that he can use the car for now until he has to return the > borrowed dist to another AHSTC member. > Thanks, Shawn > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 25 07:31:14 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:31:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Probably should have added that I checked the timing each time and made sure they were the same. Used the same rotor and cap with both. Thats why I am so confused. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." > Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 20:21:49 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > The pertonix ignitor will be as far as 15 to 20 deg out from a points > distributor, so you have to check timing using the strobe each time > you swap out the dizzys. Also check the caps and rotor, you may have > a bar rotor or cap in there. > > Alan > > > On 9/25/10, S and T Miller wrote: > > Yesterday I drove up to North Jersey (3 hrs each way) to help out a fellow > > AHSTC member who hasn't been able to drive his 3000 in 2 years. In test > > driving his car, he had a VERY loud "gun shot" type backfire when you tried > > to > > maintain a speed under very little load. Also a slight miss at various > > times. > > I went through everything- adjust carbs, checked ign wires, timing, etc. He > > previously sent the dist. to Advance dist and had it rebuilt and installed > > the > > Pertronix electronic ignition (with adv dist good rotor). Finally I swapped > > out the dist. with another, standard points/ cond dist. and it ran great. I > > only swapped out the dist. and not the cap and wires. I also used the good > > (adv dist) rotor in both circumstances. So it has to be the dist body that > > was rebuilt or the Pertronix ign. I did check to make sure the Pert. ign > > was > > installed per the instructions and checked the weights and springs in the > > dist > > and everything seemed fine. Also his car is pos ground the the Pertonix > > ign > > system was for the pos ground car. Any thoughts? > > > > Good news is that he can use the car for now until he has to return the > > borrowed dist to another AHSTC member. > > Thanks, Shawn > > > > The Millers > > "British Car Nuts" > > > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > > drive." > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 08:17:15 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 07:17:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4C9D8305.8070103@justbrits.com> References: <4C9D8305.8070103@justbrits.com> Message-ID: ok, I officially have a new favorite "they put a what in a what?!?!" It used to be the Studebaker powered '65 Mustang coupe. Now I think it's this. I mean, if you're going to do a "nasty boy" do it up! If I never see an inappropriately placed Chevy 350 again it'll be too soon. :) I love those Jag V-12 motors (for how smart they look). Whomever built this car did a heck of a job. Jody On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 10:05 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > For those of you that have NOT seen this car on Marty Jansen's > site, all I can say [besides to each his/her own] is W O W !!!!!!!!! > > http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id63.html > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] > Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 08:17:57 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 07:17:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <4C9E0495.8040704@comcast.net> Does sound like a problem with the Ignitor. Call Pertronix and tell them your diagnosis--I've heard they are very reasonable WRT returns/warranties. bs On 9/25/2010 6:31 AM, S and T Miller wrote: > Probably should have added that I checked the timing each time and made sure > they were the same. Used the same rotor and cap with both. Thats why I am so > confused. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coll44 at msn.com Sat Sep 25 09:38:37 2010 From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 11:38:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo In-Reply-To: <4C9D613C.2080609@justbrits.com> References: , , <4C9D38CD.202@justbrits.com>, , <4C9D613C.2080609@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Gents, Wouldn't a nail file or emory board serve the same purpose? Terry Coll 64 BJ8 > Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:41:00 -0500 > From: shop at justbrits.com > To: richard.ewald at gmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] dynamo > > Geesh Rick, now I'm "gettin" it from YOU !?! > > < every parts counter, >> > > I said NOTHING like above !! > > << I have this funny feeling that if I went to a > big box store and asked for one, > I would be shown to the auto body tools section. >> > > Yep and I SAID: > > ...available in blister-pac at all Big Box Auto > Stores. > > > I don't think this List does NOT know what a > "Blister-pac" is and > I would wager majority would think one would be > hanging on a > hook !! > > << Either that or I would be given a real WTF look > by the employee. >> > > Close to 99.9999999999% correct. > > < never seen a set of points > cause he was born 20+ years after they were > discontinued. >> > > Sort of hard not to since for the past 35+ years > I've been driving > El Caminos [God, do I miss Amber] and have > actually asked > for things like points, Condensers, Rotors [which > type of caliper > do you need], etc. etc. for actual, Honest-to-God > Made in America > Chevys !! Clueless [Seattle is not in universe] > in MOST Big Boxes. > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH > BJ 7 ] > Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coll44 at msn.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sat Sep 25 09:50:30 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:50:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 heater Message-ID: It's a bit too late for the answer, I suppose, but for the next time in a similar situation, it would be nice to have at least one more idea than I had. I removed my heater yesterday and I'm kind of wondering how one is supposed to remove the washer from the stud that is accessible from the engine compartment. I can only get one finger in there and I couldn't get needlenose pliers in. So ... in my attempt, I dropped it inside the enclosed space. I'm going to have to buy one of those magnets on a stick to get it out. :( There seems to be a bunch of other debris in there also. The nut was no problem and replacing the washer and nut should be no problem, I suspect. The colour of the coolant coming out of there was 'special'. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg From shop at justbrits.com Sat Sep 25 10:11:12 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 11:11:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <4C9D8305.8070103@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com> << On 9/25/2010 9:17 AM, Jody Kerr wrote: Now I think it's this. I mean, if you're going to do a "nasty boy" do it up! If I never see an inappropriately placed Chevy 350 again it'll be too soon. :) >> I take it Jody, you have NOT visited our own HealeyRick's 'site' ?!?! I would think that YOU will REALLY like it, RIGHT Rick ?!?!? Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From bighealey3k at aim.com Sat Sep 25 10:37:19 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:37:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo In-Reply-To: References: , , <4C9D38CD.202@justbrits.com>, , <4C9D613C.2080609@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <8CD2AE70E3C8DA2-17C8-1C179@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com> An emery board is not a good idea. It can leave some abrasive material imbedded in the point material and act as an insulator. Like wise with sand paper or emery cloth. A nail file could work if it is all metal. I don't know about those metal ones with diamond dust imbedded in them and then in turn imbedding some diamond in the point material again acting as an insulator and or causing premature point wear. My father back in the early 50's warned me about using an emery board on points of any kind be it on a voltage regulator or distributor. That's when I learned about a points file. Hope this helps someone from making that mistake. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: TERRY COLL To: shop at justbrits.com; richard.ewald at gmail.com Cc: austin healey Sent: Sat, Sep 25, 2010 11:38 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] dynamo Gents, Wouldn't a nail file or emory board serve the same purpose? Terry Coll 64 BJ8 > Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:41:00 -0500 From: shop at justbrits.com To: richard.ewald at gmail.com CC: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] dynamo Geesh Rick, now I'm "gettin" it from YOU !?! <> I said NOTHING like above !! << I have this funny feeling that if I went to a big box store and asked for one, I would be shown to the auto body tools section. >> Yep and I SAID: ...available in blister-pac at all Big Box Auto Stores. I don't think this List does NOT know what a "Blister-pac" is and I would wager majority would think one would be hanging on a hook !! << Either that or I would be given a real WTF look by the employee. >> Close to 99.9999999999% correct. <> Sort of hard not to since for the past 35+ years I've been driving El Caminos [God, do I miss Amber] and have actually asked for things like points, Condensers, Rotors [which type of caliper do you need], etc. etc. for actual, Honest-to-God Made in America Chevys !! Clueless [Seattle is not in universe] in MOST Big Boxes. Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coll44 at msn.com ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 10:43:05 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:43:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo In-Reply-To: <8CD2AE70E3C8DA2-17C8-1C179@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com> References: , , <4C9D38CD.202@justbrits.com>, , <4C9D613C.2080609@justbrits.com> <8CD2AE70E3C8DA2-17C8-1C179@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C9E2699.8060707@comcast.net> 'Tis also a good idea to draw a piece of paper--like a matchbook cover--through the points after they've been filed to clean them--there will usually be a gray smear on the paper. Also, in a pinch the same matchbook cover can be used as a feeler gauge to get you close to 0.015" gap. bs On 9/25/2010 9:37 AM, bighealey3k at aim.com wrote: > An emery board is not a good idea. It can leave some abrasive material > imbedded in the point material and act as an insulator. Like wise with sand > paper or emery cloth. A nail file could work if it is all metal. I don't > know about those metal ones with diamond dust imbedded in them and then in > turn imbedding some diamond in the point material again acting as an insulator > and or causing premature point wear. My father back in the early 50's warned > me about using an emery board on points of any kind be it on a voltage > regulator or distributor. That's when I learned about a points file. Hope > this helps someone from making that mistake. > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healeyray at yahoo.com Sat Sep 25 11:28:22 2010 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 10:28:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <552263.94028.qm@web111401.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Jody I guess you never saw the "Hemi in a Bug Eye" at Tahoe '02. The thing fit in the stock envelope and as I recall had notches in the valve covers to clear the tires at full lock. Ray Juncal --- On Sat, 9/25/10, Jody Kerr wrote: ok, I officially have a new favorite "they put a what in a what?!?!" From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Sep 25 13:40:02 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:40:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks for the kind words, Ed, but I don't think Jody's talking about me. He was talking about inappropriately placed Small Block Chevys. I have an inappropriately placed Small Block Ford! People either like Nasty Boys or they don't. I get it. And all the arguing from either side isn't going to be changing anyone's mind. Though I hope we can all appreciate the kind of skill, talent and craftsmanship it takes to turn out a ride like Marty's. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 9/25/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: From: Shop at " Just Brits " Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! To: Cc: "4 - Jensen-Cars" , "4 - Healeys" Date: Saturday, September 25, 2010, 12:11 PM << On 9/25/2010 9:17 AM, Jody Kerr wrote: Now I think it's this. I mean, if you're going to do a "nasty boy" do it up! If I never see an inappropriately placed Chevy 350 again it'll be too soon. :) >> I take it Jody, you have NOT visited our own HealeyRick's 'site' ?!?! I would think that YOU will REALLY like it, RIGHT Rick ?!?!? Ed '67 BJ-7 From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 14:31:39 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 13:31:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] tri carb parts needed more info Message-ID: Page 24. BCS hard to find catalog. I need all of the choke bits that attach to the balance pipe on the tricarb. All mechanisms and cables. I see the Nocks have the cables, but I also need the rest of the choke system, Thanks -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From shop at justbrits.com Sat Sep 25 14:51:27 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:51:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C9E60CF.60909@justbrits.com> << Thanks for the kind words, Ed, >> You're welcome, of course Rick !! << but I don't think Jody's talking about me. >> He's not !! << He was talking about inappropriately placed Small Block Chevys. >> Yep, *sad* !! I don't care for SBCs being 'disparaged' !!! LOL << I have an inappropriately placed Small Block Ford! >> Which I KNEW of course, which IS why I brought yer name/task up !! * **Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! * From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Sep 25 15:08:30 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 17:08:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tri carb parts needed more info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01ab01cb5cf5$ced4b320$6c7e1960$@verizon.net> Ira, why dont you just call them and talk to David. I'll bet you that they have everything that you need. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 4:32 PM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] tri carb parts needed more info Page 24. BCS hard to find catalog. I need all of the choke bits that attach to the balance pipe on the tricarb. All mechanisms and cables. I see the Nocks have the cables, but I also need the rest of the choke system, Thanks -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 15:10:53 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 14:10:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] tri carb parts needed more info In-Reply-To: <01ab01cb5cf5$ced4b320$6c7e1960$@verizon.net> References: <01ab01cb5cf5$ced4b320$6c7e1960$@verizon.net> Message-ID: will do on Monday, thanks On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 2:08 PM, John Sims wrote: > Ira, why dont you just call them and talk to David. I'll bet you that they > have everything that you need. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of I Erbs > Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 4:32 PM > To: healey help > Subject: [Healeys] tri carb parts needed more info > > Page 24. BCS hard to find catalog. I need all of the choke bits that attach > to the balance pipe on the tricarb. All mechanisms and cables. I see the > Nocks have the cables, but I also need the rest of the choke system, Thanks > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS > IT CONSULTANTS > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From editorgary at aol.com Sat Sep 25 15:36:58 2010 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 17:36:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on the Blue Ridge Parkway In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2B10EAA3D06B-1194-6334@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> While on a Mercedes caravan going to the StarFest meet in Winchester VA on Wednesday, we passed two Healeys well loaded for long-distance travel going south (that would have been between Charlottesville and Asheville). One a blue and white, the other I don't remember. Anyone on this list? Gary From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Sep 25 15:51:58 2010 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 14:51:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4C9D8305.8070103@justbrits.com> References: <4C9D8305.8070103@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <003d01cb5cfb$e1f61a60$a5e24f20$@com> I saw this car in San Diego in 2008. It is very well done. Bruce Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 10:05 PM To: 4 - Healeys; 4 - Jensen-Cars; 4 - Spridgets Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! For those of you that have NOT seen this car on Marty Jansen's site, all I can say [besides to each his/her own] is W O W !!!!!!!!! http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id63.html Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 16:11:11 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 06:11:11 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <552263.94028.qm@web111401.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <552263.94028.qm@web111401.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yep, the MOPAR hemi bugeye with corvette IRS was awesome, esp since the whole thing was done to be contained within stock body work (i.e. no fender flares). I talked with the owner and he said he had expected the thing to drive and corner like crap but was shocked at how well it handled in the curves and how driveable it was. Of course it literally smoked anything off the line, including motor bikes and supercars. For the improbable engine/car combos, there's a class of racers for the 24 Hours of LeMons series in the US. It's for the most improbable combos, e.g. SAAB RWD shoved in a Toyota Front WD chassis, etc., etc. Some crazy stuff in that race, only for the nerdish gearheads! On 9/26/10, Ray Juncal wrote: > Jody > I guess you never saw the "Hemi in a Bug Eye" at Tahoe '02. The thing > fit > in the stock envelope and as I recall had notches in the valve covers to > clear the tires at full lock. > Ray Juncal > > --- On Sat, 9/25/10, Jody Kerr wrote: > > > ok, I officially have a new favorite "they put a what in a what?!?!" > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 16:34:23 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:34:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <552263.94028.qm@web111401.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ok, wanted to clarify things a bit. For some bizarre reason people in Arizona like to remove perfectly good engines from rare vehicles and drop a Chevy 350 motor in there. I've seen Studebaker Golden Hawks (which had a beautiful motor and paxton supercharger) get changed for no reason. Add to that a list of other cars of similar quality of motor and or rarity "ruined" (in my opinion mind you) at car shows. It makes me a little crazy. Then there's the guys that spend upwards of 75K to build a ford/buick/plymouth/cadillac/studebaker/hudson hot rod and put in a chevy motor. I mean hell, if you're going to spend that much, put a more appropriate engine in place. Now, when it comes to british cars, I like to see V-8 versions using either the Rover V-8 or a Ford V-8. But the, there's a level of provenance to the idea. The great AC Cobra was created by merging a ford powerplant into an AC chassis. The Tiger used a Ford powerplant. (I'm leaving the Jensen Interceptor out of this as it's a saloon car, not a sports car). The "Hemi in a Bug-eye" sounds like some incredible engineering. That had to have required massive work, thought and talent to do something like that. I think that sort of stuff is really cool. At heart I'm still a purist. Driving cars like the Jensen-Healey has shown me that I have to be more flexible/creative about that as parts availability continually dwindles. I've learned to like doing/thinking about engine swaps, but I still can't bring myself to do it unless there's no original engine remaining in the car (I still want to build a Porsche 944 with a LS-1 motor in it). Jody -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Sep 25 17:07:54 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:07:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <994220.30992.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Funny how the SBC has gone from "the" motor to have in the '50s and '60s to a pariah in later years. It's not a particularly sexy motor, but I doubt there's been a better horsepower per dollar producer out there. I spend some time on a "traditional" hot rod site: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5 and the mouse motor is truly reviled. Probably due to the easy availability of Chevy crate motors. But when I grew up, if you had a 'vette motor in your rod, you ruled the world. OTOH, today's engine swappers are head over heels about the LS series motors. Drop one of these in a Miata and watch out! Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 9/25/10, Jody Kerr wrote: From: Jody Kerr Subject: Re: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! To: "Alan Seigrist" Cc: "List Healey" Date: Saturday, September 25, 2010, 6:34 PM Ok, wanted to clarify things a bit. For some bizarre reason people in Arizona like to remove perfectly good engines from rare vehicles and drop a Chevy 350 motor in there. I've seen Studebaker Golden Hawks (which had a beautiful motor and paxton supercharger) get changed for no reason. Add to that a list of other cars of similar quality of motor and or rarity "ruined" (in my opinion mind you) at car shows. It makes me a little crazy. Then there's the guys that spend upwards of 75K to build a ford/buick/plymouth/cadillac/studebaker/hudson hot rod and put in a chevy motor. I mean hell, if you're going to spend that much, put a more appropriate engine in place. Jody From healey100m at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 17:27:46 2010 From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:27:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on the Blue Ridge Parkway In-Reply-To: <8CD2B10EAA3D06B-1194-6334@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2B10EAA3D06B-1194-6334@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8171E961-9213-42D4-9DCC-2710B462FC1C@gmail.com> If it was a white BJ8, it may have been us. We're driving from Massachusetts to Phoenix, AZ with a stop in Abingdon, VA for a weekend Healey gathering with the North Carolina group. A good weekend. Randy Hicks On Sep 25, 2010, at 5:36 PM, editorgary at aol.com wrote: > While on a Mercedes caravan going to the StarFest meet in Winchester VA on > Wednesday, we passed two Healeys well loaded for long-distance travel going > south (that would have been between Charlottesville and Asheville). One a blue > and white, the other I don't remember. Anyone on this list? > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 25 17:42:05 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:42:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] spin on filter update Message-ID: I posted on here asking if anyone experienced a slight drop in oil pressure with the spin on oil filter conversion. Thank you for the responses I received. It seemed though that no one said that they experienced the same drop in pressure. So I decided to put the canister filter back on with a new filter while changing nothing else. Well it seems that the original canister filter has slightly better oil pressure then the spin on filter with a Super Tech (Wal mart) filter installed. Now it makes me wonder if it is the filter adaptor or the cheap filter? Do different brands effect the pressure? The canister filter holds much more oil and is much larger, is that why- less restriction? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Sep 25 18:06:27 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 20:06:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] spin on filter update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> Not all filters are the same and some can actually do some damage. Please take a look at: http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T Miller Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 7:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] spin on filter update I posted on here asking if anyone experienced a slight drop in oil pressure with the spin on oil filter conversion. Thank you for the responses I received. It seemed though that no one said that they experienced the same drop in pressure. So I decided to put the canister filter back on with a new filter while changing nothing else. Well it seems that the original canister filter has slightly better oil pressure then the spin on filter with a Super Tech (Wal mart) filter installed. Now it makes me wonder if it is the filter adaptor or the cheap filter? Do different brands effect the pressure? The canister filter holds much more oil and is much larger, is that why- less restriction? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." ________ From shop at justbrits.com Sat Sep 25 18:15:13 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:15:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <994220.30992.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <994220.30992.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C9E9091.2060005@justbrits.com> << But when I grew up, if you had a 'vette motor in your rod, you ruled the world. OTOH, today's engine swappers are head over heels about the LS series motors. >> But yer sorta not comparing Apples & Oranges, Rick !! When we grew up, 283s then348s [truck motor] and 327s were THE only ticket in town !! WHY the 350 went thru the roof and remains there is beyond me !!! In the early-mid '70s I got a '64 Camino with 327 & 4 speed. Worked on it a TAD and I could blow the doors off those 350s !!! It was FUNNY !! Then I got a '69 in '80-'81 that I dumped a 327 in in trade [sucker got the 350] and I DID do some 'tricks' and hardly anything could touch me yet car was a GREAT daily driver !!! 350 = bah !!! LOL Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Sep 25 18:17:21 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 20:17:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] spin on filter update References: Message-ID: <01ba01cb5d10$3042b890$90c829b0$@verizon.net> I might also add, that I would be careful of buying an important automotive product from Wal-Mart as who knows from year to year who the actually supplier of the part is. Don't forget that Wal-Mart is famous for buying from the low cost supplier and even at that, beating them down for a few pennies more. Corners have to be cut somewhere just to get the Wal-Mart contract. There is a reason why their stuff is so cheap. I am not sure who supplies NAPA or the other similar stores but I bet that they are more interested in quality than in low wholesale purchase prices that Wal-Mart claims to pass on the consumer regardless of the damage that the part does to an engine. You get what you pay for. I buy well known brands at Wal-Mart but I'll be damned if I buy their private label stuff. Flame away, guys and gals. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 8:06 PM To: 'S and T Miller'; 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] spin on filter update Not all filters are the same and some can actually do some damage. Please take a look at: http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T Miller Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 7:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] spin on filter update I posted on here asking if anyone experienced a slight drop in oil pressure with the spin on oil filter conversion. Thank you for the responses I received. It seemed though that no one said that they experienced the same drop in pressure. So I decided to put the canister filter back on with a new filter while changing nothing else. Well it seems that the original canister filter has slightly better oil pressure then the spin on filter with a Super Tech (Wal mart) filter installed. Now it makes me wonder if it is the filter adaptor or the cheap filter? Do different brands effect the pressure? The canister filter holds much more oil and is much larger, is that why- less restriction? From e-wilkins at cox.net Sat Sep 25 18:49:44 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 17:49:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4C9E9091.2060005@justbrits.com> References: <994220.30992.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4C9E9091.2060005@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <6B6847D8-4B52-4192-9AF8-018C69BA9314@cox.net> Yeah, sure there are engines that are fun to like (283), but the fact remains, for power/Money ratio, it's damn near impossible to beat the ubiquitous Chevy 350. THAT my friends is why they are so much fun to pop into whatever car you want to power. That huge market makes for tons of aftermarket go fast bits. It's costing me literally thousands of dollars to build a fast Austin Healey engine that will still be heavier and have less than half the power of a mildly tuned 350. Wilko From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Sep 25 19:17:44 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 21:17:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! Message-ID: <20100925.181831.1057.265859@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> So, will you still enjoy driving your Healey despite the lack of "power"? Because, that is what it is all about - driving the Healey!! Not the air conditioning, the MP3 player, the CB radio, the FM stereo, the Smitty transmission, the V8, or whatever else adulterates it. IMHO. Doug > Yeah, sure there are engines that are fun to like (283), but the fact > > remains, for power/Money ratio, it's damn near impossible to beat > the > ubiquitous Chevy 350. THAT my friends is why they are so much fun to > > pop into whatever car you want to power. > > That huge market makes for tons of aftermarket go fast bits. > > It's costing me literally thousands of dollars to build a fast > Austin > Healey engine that will still be heavier and have less than half the > > power of a mildly tuned 350. > > Wilko > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c9e9fa11949a7a9b7est06duc From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Sep 25 19:20:08 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 21:20:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] spin on filter update In-Reply-To: References: , <01ba01cb5d10$3042b890$90c829b0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <01c601cb5d18$f63cf760$e2b6e620$@verizon.net> If you read the ratings closely, anything is better than Fram. I would still be concerned considering my experience with Sears in which the same TV, for example, has a different UPC and model number than if you were to buy it at a Best Buy. My big screen TV in my den is identical to the one being sold at Costco but it had a different model number from the same one at Sears. Same warranty, Same instruction book except for the model number but Sears had free shipping. Go figure. Something in the deep dark recesses of my mind tells me that there are slight differences. With something so important as a Filter, I would feel a lot more confident if I were to buy it from a NAPA or similar store that does not have the clout to force a manufacturer to cut corners to meet a price just to get shelf space at a Wal-Mart. My daily driver has another 85,000 miles on the drive train warranty. My Healey does not. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From: S and T Miller [mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 9:04 PM To: ahbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] spin on filter update Hi John, normally I would totally agree with you about getting what you pay for (love your Website -BTW). Super Tech is produced by Champion Labs who also make STP, AC Delco, Mobil 1, and K & N. Are the Super Tech filters made cheaper for Wal Mart? Could be, but several reviews I saw ranked them (at least) better then Fram. I'm no expect here. Really I am no expert at anything! It actually seems to me that several other "brands" switch suppliers more often. I have used them in our daily drivers for years, and cross my fingers, have been fine so far (both 125,000 plus). Could be a good discussion point? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Sep 25 20:01:58 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:01:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! Message-ID: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Maybe this is the magic of Healeys. There's room for people who enjoy a stock four or six cylinder, or an upgraded motor relying on period competition parts, right up to the engine-swapping nasty boys. At the end of the day, I think we all are more enthusiastic about the "Healey" part of the car rather than the "Austin" part. For those of us fortunate enough to chat with Donald, we got the impression that he would have been fine with a motor that upgraded the performance of his chassis. My conclusion: Enjoy your stock Healey or build whatever is in your imagination. That's the true spirit of Healey cars. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 9/25/10, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: From: dwflagg at juno.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! To: e-wilkins at cox.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, September 25, 2010, 9:17 PM So, will you still enjoy driving your Healey despite the lack of "power"? Because, that is what it is all about - driving the Healey!! Not the air conditioning, the MP3 player, the CB radio, the FM stereo, the Smitty transmission, the V8, or whatever else adulterates it. IMHO. Doug > Yeah, sure there are engines that are fun to like (283), but the fact > > remains, for power/Money ratio, it's damn near impossible to beat > the > ubiquitous Chevy 350. THAT my friends is why they are so much fun to > > pop into whatever car you want to power. > > That huge market makes for tons of aftermarket go fast bits. > > It's costing me literally thousands of dollars to build a fast > Austin > Healey engine that will still be heavier and have less than half the > > power of a mildly tuned 350. > > Wilko > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c9e9fa11949a7a9b7est06duc _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 20:07:14 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:07:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Engines Message-ID: I agree .Donald was about speed. The sense Healey was designed for a v8 the oil crunch necessitated the 4 cyl It's Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Sep 25 20:23:52 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:23:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Not to beat this thread into the ground, but if your car was named a "FIAT-Ferrari", would you really feel bad about changing the FIAT part? Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 9/25/10, I Erbs wrote: From: I Erbs Subject: [Healeys] Engines To: "healey help" Date: Saturday, September 25, 2010, 10:07 PM I agree .Donald was about speed. The sense Healey was designed for a v8 the oil crunch necessitated the 4 cyl It's Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 20:25:26 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:25:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Crappy... jensen Healey was to. Have a V 8 It's Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA On Sep 25, 2010 7:23 PM, "HealeyRick" wrote: > Not to beat this thread into the ground, but if your car was named a "FIAT-Ferrari", would you really feel bad about changing the FIAT part? > > Rick > > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Sat, 9/25/10, I Erbs wrote: > > From: I Erbs > Subject: [Healeys] Engines > To: "healey help" > Date: Saturday, September 25, 2010, 10:07 PM > > I agree .Donald was about speed. The sense Healey was designed for a v8 the > oil crunch necessitated the 4 cyl > It's Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions > Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Sep 25 20:48:09 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:48:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <552263.94028.qm@web111401.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jody - Yep, the Hemi Healey involved designing and building a chassis from scratch to put the bugeye body on. http://www.modifiedhealeys.org/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkkA3zU0RlI http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=WKgTXzIFL7s Looks like they removed the old wood dashboard since I saw it, I sort of like the new dash. It would be ideal if the dash could look a bit more stock though. Other than that, this thing is awesome. I especially appreciate the work that went into the IRS. Alan The "Hemi in a Bug-eye" sounds like some incredible engineering. That > had to have required massive work, thought and talent to do something > like that. I think that sort of stuff is really cool. From shop at justbrits.com Sat Sep 25 20:55:15 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 21:55:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C9EB613.6010808@justbrits.com> << For those of us fortunate enough to chat with Donald, we got the impression that he would have been fine with a motor that upgraded the performance of his chassis. >> Absolutely, Rick. Of course, he was always in awe & amazement that we would even LOVE & restore & go everywhere in his cars with the passion we do and he said he found it everywhere he went and would often remark about it !! On one of his last trips, I ran into him in the lobby and as usual greeted me with his great warmth. He asked me where Cindy was [he REALLY liked her [cute young thing - LOL !!] and I said she couldn't make it and that I had driven to the event in Hortense alone. The look/reaction told me he was sure I was crazy !!! LOL !! << My conclusion: Enjoy your stock Healey or build whatever is in your imagination. That's the true spirit of Healey cars. >> Absolutely & agreed !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Sep 25 21:24:06 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 20:24:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4C9EB613.6010808@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <923285.29402.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ed, I don't know what was more surprising .. For us that loved his creations that he could be so accessible and great to talk to ... Or for him ... that so many people still loved his cars. What didn't surprise us, though, was he still had an eye for the ladies! Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 9/25/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: Absolutely, Rick. Of course, he was always in awe & amazement that we would even LOVE & restore & go everywhere in his cars with the passion we do and he said he found it everywhere he went and would often remark about it !! On one of his last trips, I ran into him in the lobby and as usual greeted me with his great warmth. He asked me where Cindy was [he REALLY liked her [cute young thing - LOL !!] and I said she couldn't make it and that I had driven to the event in Hortense alone. The look/reaction told me he was sure I was crazy !!! LOL !! << My conclusion: Enjoy your stock Healey or build whatever is in your imagination. That's the true spirit of Healey cars. >> Absolutely & agreed !! Ed '67 BJ-7 From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Sep 25 22:00:50 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 23:00:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com>, <629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Nice work Rick. Any videos anywhere of the "Nasty Boys" in action? I would like to see them at speed. Cheers Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY > Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:40:02 -0700 > From: healeyrick at yahoo.com > To: shop at justbrits.com > CC: jensen-cars at british-steel.org; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! > > Thanks for the kind words, Ed, but I don't think Jody's talking about me. He > was talking about inappropriately placed Small Block Chevys. I have an > inappropriately placed Small Block Ford! People either like Nasty Boys or > they don't. I get it. And all the arguing from either side isn't going to be > changing anyone's mind. Though I hope we can all appreciate the kind of > skill, talent and craftsmanship it takes to turn out a ride like Marty's. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Sat, 9/25/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > > From: Shop at " Just Brits " > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! > To: > Cc: "4 - Jensen-Cars" , "4 - Healeys" > > Date: Saturday, September 25, 2010, 12:11 PM > > << On 9/25/2010 9:17 AM, Jody Kerr wrote: > > Now I think it's this. I mean, if you're going to do a "nasty boy" do it up! > If I > never see an inappropriately placed Chevy 350 again it'll be too soon. :) >> > > I take it Jody, you have NOT visited our own HealeyRick's 'site' ?!?! > > I would think that YOU will REALLY like it, RIGHT Rick ?!?!? > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahpowered at hotmail.com From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Sep 25 22:14:21 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 23:14:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com>, , <629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: This one is a pretty good example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdJrpORkSrI Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY > From: ahpowered at hotmail.com > To: healeyrick at yahoo.com; shop at justbrits.com > Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 23:00:50 -0500 > CC: jensen-cars at british-steel.org; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! > > Nice work Rick. Any videos anywhere of the "Nasty Boys" in action? I would > like to see them at speed. > Cheers > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > > > Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:40:02 -0700 > > From: healeyrick at yahoo.com > > To: shop at justbrits.com > > CC: jensen-cars at british-steel.org; healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! > > > > Thanks for the kind words, Ed, but I don't think Jody's talking about me. > He > > was talking about inappropriately placed Small Block Chevys. I have an > > inappropriately placed Small Block Ford! People either like Nasty Boys or > > they don't. I get it. And all the arguing from either side isn't going to > be > > changing anyone's mind. Though I hope we can all appreciate the kind of > > skill, talent and craftsmanship it takes to turn out a ride like Marty's. > > > > Rick > > > > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > > > --- On Sat, 9/25/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > > > > From: Shop at " Just Brits " > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! > > To: > > Cc: "4 - Jensen-Cars" , "4 - Healeys" > > > > Date: Saturday, September 25, 2010, 12:11 PM > > > > << On 9/25/2010 9:17 AM, Jody Kerr wrote: > > > > Now I think it's this. I mean, if you're going to do a "nasty boy" do it > up! > > If I > > never see an inappropriately placed Chevy 350 again it'll be too soon. :) > >> > > > > I take it Jody, you have NOT visited our own HealeyRick's 'site' ?!?! > > > > I would think that YOU will REALLY like it, RIGHT Rick ?!?!? > > > > Ed > > '67 BJ-7 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Sep 25 22:19:40 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 14:19:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4C9E9091.2060005@justbrits.com> References: <994220.30992.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4C9E9091.2060005@justbrits.com> Message-ID: G'day That is indeed my car. It is from a series of photos taken for Road & Track (I think) magazine during the 1950s. The BN3 just happened to be in the background. Glad I got rid of that ugly external rear vision mirror and the tow bar. The chap who ran the Dipstick Digest sent me a large print of it some years back, before his sad and tragic accident. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia (Where I am building sandstone steps and not working on more interesting things.) << But when I grew up, if you had a 'vette motor in your rod, you ruled the world. OTOH, today's engine swappers are head over heels about the LS series motors. >> But yer sorta not comparing Apples & Oranges, Rick !! When we grew up, 283s then348s [truck motor] and 327s were THE only ticket in town !! WHY the 350 went thru the roof and remains there is beyond me !!! In the early-mid '70s I got a '64 Camino with 327 & 4 speed. Worked on it a TAD and I could blow the doors off those 350s !!! It was FUNNY !! Then I got a '69 in '80-'81 that I dumped a 327 in in trade [sucker got the 350] and I DID do some 'tricks' and hardly anything could touch me yet car was a GREAT daily driver !!! 350 = bah !!! LOL Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sun Sep 26 01:30:55 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 09:30:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A0344601214D3F1345@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Rick, I would not mind to drop the Ferrari part. The only classic car I would buy of the FIAT-Ferrari name would be the FIAT "Otto Vu", which by the way was far superior to any stock Austin-Healey. And has got a propper "European" V8. Its a pity, but I can't afford one. The classic FIAT 500 is also very very popular around here and are well sought after. Abarth-modifications reach higher prices than Austin-Healeys. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany Not to beat this thread into the ground, but if your car was named a "FIAT-Ferrari", would you really feel bad about changing the FIAT part? Rick From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 01:42:58 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 00:42:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A0344601214D3F1345@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A0344601214D3F1345@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: oh man. I'd love a proper Fiat 500. An abarth 500 might make me cry. :) But then I'm in the US where you ask for Fiat parts and they ask, "who makes that? Ford?" Jody On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 12:30 AM, wrote: > Rick, > I would not mind to drop the Ferrari part. The only classic car I would buy > of the FIAT-Ferrari name would be the FIAT "Otto Vu", which by the way was far > superior to any stock Austin-Healey. And has got a propper "European" V8. Its > a pity, but I can't afford one. The classic FIAT 500 is also very very popular > around here and are well sought after. Abarth-modifications reach higher > prices than Austin-Healeys. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > > Not to beat this thread into the ground, but if your car was named a > "FIAT-Ferrari", would you really feel bad about changing the FIAT part? > > Rick > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Sep 26 02:13:44 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:13:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] spin on filter update In-Reply-To: <01c601cb5d18$f63cf760$e2b6e620$@verizon.net> References: , <01ba01cb5d10$3042b890$90c829b0$@verizon.net> <01c601cb5d18$f63cf760$e2b6e620$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C9F00B8.8000401@chello.nl> Quality does not always depend on price. It has been shown over and over again in consumer testing all over the world. Is there any relation at all? Yes there is. The chance of a decent quality is higher with an expensive product versus a cheap product, but more often than not the price of an expensive product is caused by commercials, marketing and profit margins. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Sep 26 02:17:39 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:17:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C9F01A3.2010906@chello.nl> I seem to remember that Donald Healey himself has owned one or more Healey's with an alternative V-8 engine. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Sep 26 02:26:53 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:26:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C9F03CD.1040900@chello.nl> Well, I don't know. Fiat did make some wonderfull designs (e.g. 8-V) that made Ferrari's look agricultural in the 50's. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Sep 26 02:28:19 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 18:28:19 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4C9F01A3.2010906@chello.nl> References: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4C9F01A3.2010906@chello.nl> Message-ID: G'day DMH never owned an Austin-Healey with a V8 engine, but he was very enthusiastic about the Silverstone provided to Briggs Cunningham who then fitted a Cadillac V8. One was made at Warwick and if you recall he was travelling to the US to meet with Cadillac hoping to obtain a source of V8s for Healey cars, but met George Mason of Nash Kelvinator on the way. He couldn't source the V8, but that gave rise to the Nash Healey. I wonder if you are confusing it with the V8 powered Jensen 541 that DMH owned? An Australian by the name of Richard Calver has written a few books on Jensen, including one that lists every single Jensen built. Within the lists there is one Jensen 541 that was supplied engineless and who was it supplied to? Donald Healey. It was then fitted with a V8 (Chrysler I think) and Donald drove that for sometime between Warwick and the Cornwall coast. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Sunday, 26 September 2010 6:18 PM To: HealeyRick Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! I seem to remember that Donald Healey himself has owned one or more Healey's with an alternative V-8 engine. Kees Oudesluijs NL From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Sep 26 02:29:58 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:29:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A0344601214D3F1345@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <130720.22207.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A0344601214D3F1345@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <4C9F0486.7050407@chello.nl> And what fun they are, those Fiat/Abarth/Steyr-Puch 500-850cc creations. They were big trouble for the Austin Healey's on the circuits in the 60's, ran rings around them. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Sep 26 02:38:14 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:38:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4C9F01A3.2010906@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C9F0676.40506@chello.nl> Patrick, I know Richard Calver well. As an owner of a Jensen Healey and a staf member of the Dutch Jensen Society (Het Jensen Genootschap Holland), I have all his books and all books about Jensen and many about Healey. You may be right that I was confused with the 541 DH had, which was fitted with a V-8. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 04:08:22 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 03:08:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4C9F0676.40506@chello.nl> References: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4C9F01A3.2010906@chello.nl> <4C9F0676.40506@chello.nl> Message-ID: ooohh! A 541! Now there's a beast worth owning! Richard is very busy keeping the yank jensenites in line. Kees and I are both on the Jensen list, so this will get through to that crowd. (Kees is the brighter of the pair and tends to listen. I, on the other hand, don't!) I tried to get official things going like the Jensen club and the Healey club. So far, so good, excepting all the nonexistent old farts that never show up at the nonexistent meetings. :) That being said, Art and I grab hamburgers & beers and discuss how cool we are. So far we are the coolest members of the two of us and we reserve the right to mock all of you Bruces. :) I also tend to show up at other brit car events, generally in the wrong car. :) As long as the Jensen folk and the Healey folk promise to behave themselves we could be encouraged to form a local gathering (provided that there was an appropriate amount of beer involved). That being said, bad behaviour is allowed as long as it coincides with female mud wrestling. You bring the women, we'll supply the mud. On a side note, took the kids to the zoo today. Warned the keepers of the dangers of drop bears. They didn't listen. We may have lost some of the future 50 to these vicious beasties. Jody (a.k.a got the beast running tonight.There's a TR8 loose on the streets of Phoenix now!) On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 1:38 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Patrick, > I know Richard Calver well. As an owner of a Jensen Healey and a staf > member of the Dutch Jensen Society (Het Jensen Genootschap Holland), I > have all his books and all books about Jensen and many about Healey. > You may be right that I was confused with the 541 DH had, which was > fitted with a V-8. > Cheers, > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Sep 26 04:48:59 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 12:48:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4C9F01A3.2010906@chello.nl> <4C9F0676.40506@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C9F251B.8070603@chello.nl> Jody, As for the Jensen 541, a few guys in the UK had fitted a BMW 6-cylinder engine in a 541S. They did a very neat job and the BMW engine (a much better engine than the old Austin lorry lump of cast iron) suited the car very well. Because of the substantial weight savings they had to fit other front springs. The handling and steering effort was very much improved. I think there are also one or two with a Datsun/Nissan 6 pot engine. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Sep 26 05:19:58 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:19:58 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4C9F01A3.2010906@chello.nl><4C9F0676.40506@chello.nl> Message-ID: <98A158ACB6ED4F6D948AE93C7EADB69D@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day I have had the pleasure of driving a few 541s over the years. The 541 is my favourite coupe of the 1950s and the 4-litre Austin engine seems appropriate. The 541 doesn't accelerate all that quickly, but will cruise at 100mph when it eventually gets there. I would be more than happy to add a 541 to my garage. But will say that a BMW engine would make it interesting. Good to hear that Richard is working hard at keeping you US Jensenites in check. He is certainly enthusiastic and knows his stuff. Plus like most Australians is fully aware of the perils of drop bears. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Jody Kerr [mailto:jodyfkerr at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, 26 September 2010 8:08 PM To: Oudesluys; Art DeKneef; healeys Cc: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Subject: Re: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! ooohh! A 541! Now there's a beast worth owning! Richard is very busy keeping the yank jensenites in line. Kees and I are both on the Jensen list, so this will get through to that crowd. (Kees is the brighter of the pair and tends to listen. I, on the other hand, don't!) I tried to get official things going like the Jensen club and the Healey club. So far, so good, excepting all the nonexistent old farts that never show up at the nonexistent meetings. :) That being said, Art and I grab hamburgers & beers and discuss how cool we are. So far we are the coolest members of the two of us and we reserve the right to mock all of you Bruces. :) I also tend to show up at other brit car events, generally in the wrong car. :) As long as the Jensen folk and the Healey folk promise to behave themselves we could be encouraged to form a local gathering (provided that there was an appropriate amount of beer involved). That being said, bad behaviour is allowed as long as it coincides with female mud wrestling. You bring the women, we'll supply the mud. On a side note, took the kids to the zoo today. Warned the keepers of the dangers of drop bears. They didn't listen. We may have lost some of the future 50 to these vicious beasties. Jody (a.k.a got the beast running tonight.There's a TR8 loose on the streets of Phoenix now!) On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 1:38 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Patrick, > I know Richard Calver well. As an owner of a Jensen Healey and a staf > member of the Dutch Jensen Society (Het Jensen Genootschap Holland), I > have all his books and all books about Jensen and many about Healey. > You may be right that I was confused with the 541 DH had, which was > fitted with a V-8. > Cheers, > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 26 06:53:31 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 07:53:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> References: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> Folks, Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not start. The problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark plugs resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. Upon cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened several months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in which this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open valves into the cylinders. However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 hours after driving the car approximately 60 miles. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ron From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 07:13:29 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:13:29 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> References: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> Message-ID: Is your coolant level going down? On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not start. The > problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark plugs > resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. Upon > cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened several > months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in which > this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open valves into > the cylinders. > > However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 hours > after driving the car approximately 60 miles. > Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 07:27:44 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:27:44 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com> <629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: That BJ8 sounds pretty nice. I bet it's fast but I think I like the sound of the standard 6 more. It sounds like a bog-standard American muscle car to me. I guess being an American, I want my gigantor two door land yachts to sound like this, and my Healey to sound like a Healey. Please don't take offense Modified AH friends. Think back to the times - William Lyons hated V8s as being too "American" and killed the wonderful, light & delightfully small 2.5" Daimler V8 hemi when Jaguar bought the company. He hated V8s so much that when the E-type needed a bigger motor, he purposefully designed the V12 double six motor just to prove a point. I always thought the Daimler V8 would be a perfect motor for the 100. Alan From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sun Sep 26 07:50:15 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 09:50:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] spin on filter update In-Reply-To: <4C9F00B8.8000401@chello.nl> References: , <01ba01cb5d10$3042b890$90c829b0$@verizon.net> <01c601cb5d18$f63cf760$e2b6e620$@verizon.net>, <4C9F00B8.8000401@chello.nl> Message-ID: I would have to agree that I have never seen a "Super Tech" commercial, stickers, or fancy store displays. I wish now that before I switched back to the canister filter that I would have tried a few different brands to see if there was a difference in pressure. BTW- my oil pressure has always been great, its just I noticed a slight decrease after installing the spin on adapter. It does make me wonder what is the best filter for our cars? Is spin on better or worse then the canister? Brands? Also here is a post that never made it to the list because of being too large: Hi John, normally I would totally agree with you about getting what you pay for (love your Website -BTW). Super Tech is produced by Champion Labs who also make STP, AC Delco, Mobil 1, and K & N. Are the Super Tech filters made cheaper for Wal Mart? Could be, but several reviews I saw some ranked them (at least) better then Fram. I'm no expert here. Really I am no expert at anything! It actually seems to me that several other "brands" switch suppliers more often. I have used them in our daily drivers for years, and cross my fingers, have been fine so far (both 125,000 plus). Could be a good discussion point? The Millers "British Car Nuts" > Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:13:44 +0200 > From: coudesluijs at chello.nl > To: ahbn6 at verizon.net > CC: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filter update > > Quality does not always depend on price. It has been shown over and > over again in consumer testing all over the world. > Is there any relation at all? Yes there is. The chance of a decent > quality is higher with an expensive product versus a cheap product, but > more often than not the price of an expensive product is caused by > commercials, marketing and profit margins. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 08:36:32 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 07:36:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: References: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> Message-ID: <3F4F5FE1-CE0A-44BF-9C34-7E85987B07FF@gmail.com> Check the oil for water I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Sep 26, 2010, at 6:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Is your coolant level going down? > > On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: >> Folks, >> >> Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not >> start. The >> problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark >> plugs >> resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. >> Upon >> cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened >> several >> months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in >> which >> this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open >> valves into >> the cylinders. >> >> However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 >> hours >> after driving the car approximately 60 miles. >> Any thoughts? >> >> Thanks, >> Ron >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Sep 26 09:06:38 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 08:06:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <958927.48798.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks, Scott. Here's Bill McMahon's on track: http://www.vimeo.com/14546725 And a cool video of Tim Moran's: (scroll to the bottom of the webpage for the link) http://modifiedhealeys.org/Photos/1Moran/FullStoryAll1.html There's a few more on Youtube if you search Austin Healey V8 Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 9/26/10, scott willis wrote: From: scott willis Subject: RE: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! To: healeyrick at yahoo.com, "Ed" Cc: jensen-cars at british-steel.org, healeys at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 12:00 AM Nice work Rick. Any videos anywhere of the "Nasty Boys" in action? I would like to see them at speed. Cheers Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY > Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:40:02 -0700 > From: healeyrick at yahoo.com > To: shop at justbrits.com > CC: jensen-cars at british-steel.org; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! > > Thanks for the kind words, Ed, but I don't think Jody's talking about me. He > was talking about inappropriately placed Small Block Chevys. I have an > inappropriately placed Small Block Ford! People either like Nasty Boys or > they don't. I get it. And all the arguing from either side isn't going to be > changing anyone's mind. Though I hope we can all appreciate the kind of > skill, talent and craftsmanship it takes to turn out a ride like Marty's. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Sat, 9/25/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > > From: Shop at " Just Brits " > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! > To: > Cc: "4 - Jensen-Cars" , "4 - Healeys" > > Date: Saturday, September 25, 2010, 12:11 PM > > << On 9/25/2010 9:17 AM, Jody Kerr wrote: > > Now I think it's this. I mean, if you're going to do a "nasty boy" do it up! > If I > never see an inappropriately placed Chevy 350 again it'll be too soon. :) >> > > I take it Jody, you have NOT visited our own HealeyRick's 'site' ?!?! > > I would think that YOU will REALLY like it, RIGHT Rick ?!?!? > > Ed > '67 BJ-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahpowered at hotmail.com From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Sun Sep 26 09:17:23 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 08:17:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <98A158ACB6ED4F6D948AE93C7EADB69D@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <153181.43077.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4C9F01A3.2010906@chello.nl><4C9F0676.40506@chello.nl> <98A158ACB6ED4F6D948AE93C7EADB69D@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <8EEAD97655484FBEADB60607DBFCD43F@JerryPC> I have attended the Jensen International meet in California and Nevada. I think they call it international because they usually get someone from Canada. Ours was the only Healey there but they opened the meet to any car that Jensen worked on. A very nice group of people and one of them is sure that the 541 was designed from the curves of the Austin Healey. I think one of those 440s in an Austin Healey might be a little scary. Jerry BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 09:53:01 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 08:53:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SU fuel pump adjustment Message-ID: <4C9F6C5D.7040701@comcast.net> Listers, I stumbled across something I thought I'd pass along. You may recall I've been having trouble with the fuel pump in our BN2/100M. I've got two pumps, one a 'factory' SU electronic, and one that came with points that I retrofitted with an SU electronic kit. Both pumps exhibit erratic behavior--sometimes behaving like they should and sometimes pumping quickly, then stopping, then pumping quickly, ad infinitem. We've checked the lines--no leaks--and, suspecting a fracture in the tank pickup tube, tried pumping directly from a pail of gas. No change. Suspecting flooding, I installed Grose jets in the carbs and, although any minor flooding seems to be mostly controlled, the erratic pumping goes on. What I found is, possibly, a good/better method for adjusting the diaphragm. I've always adjusted them 'by the book;' something like screw them in until the throwover mechanism just stops throwing over, back off 4 'holes,' etc.; and (I think) Rich C has suggested adjusting one hole looser than the book. The electronic kit I retrofitted came with a (fairly thick) feeler gauge, and I adjusted the pump per the instructions. The pump sat unused for several years while we started the restoration, and when the time came to install it it wouldn't fire at all. In a hurry, I bought the factory SU electronic and figured I'd revert the other to points for a spare. In trying to solve our erratic pump behavior, I decided to give my retrofit another shot. I didn't have the feeler gauge, so I connected the pump up to a car battery and played with the diaphragm adjustment. You'd expect that if the diaphragm is set too tight the pump won't work properly, but I found that at even one hole too loose the pump wouldn't work either (this may be a 'duh' for some, but I've been working on these pumps for years and it was a revelation for me). There is about a 2-3 'hole' range where the pump will operate at all, and one where the pump seems to work the best. So ... my suggestion is when 'tuning' an SU pump--this should work for a points pump as well--set the diaphragm per the book, then connect to a 12V battery and set for the most robust pumping. YMMV. Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Sep 26 10:16:53 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 12:16:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] water jacket height Message-ID: <4C9F71F5.9040705@earthlink.net> Listers, Back on Sept 3rd I asked: Anyone know what the depth of the water jacket around the cylinders (3000 block) is suppose to be? I measured about 5 1/4 inches from the top of the block down to something solid. I'm sure that there's some variation in the castings, but if it's suppose to be 7 inches then I know I've got a good bit of crud in there. Just one response, so I decided to have a spare 29E block cleaned at a machine shop (baked and shot blasted). I got it back and found the water jacket height at most holes to be 5 1/2 inches. The 29E block in the car measured about 5 1/4 inches. So there is probably some crud there. Will check additional blocks as I run across them. Cheers, Bob From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Sep 26 11:23:02 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:23:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <746096.70105.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Alan, Of all the reasons to keep the Healey six, the sound has to be the best! Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 9/26/10, Alan Seigrist wrote: From: Alan Seigrist Subject: Re: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 9:27 AM That BJ8 sounds pretty nice. I bet it's fast but I think I like the sound of the standard 6 more. It sounds like a bog-standard American muscle car to me. I guess being an American, I want my gigantor two door land yachts to sound like this, and my Healey to sound like a Healey. Please don't take offense Modified AH friends. T From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Sep 26 11:28:25 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:28:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <671642.37281.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Nope, Chrysler :-) Be interesting to see how the new Fiat 500 does when introduced to the U.S. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 9/26/10, Jody Kerr wrote: From: Jody Kerr Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engines To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Cc: healeyrick at yahoo.com, Healeys at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 3:42 AM But then I'm in the US where you ask for Fiat parts and they ask, "who makes that? Ford?" Jody From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 11:36:14 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:36:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mufflers Message-ID: <4C9F848E.5080604@comcast.net> I'm thinking about replacing the home-built Frankenmuffler on my BJ8 with a stock-type, mild steel muffler. Comments on who has the best value, sound, etc.? On a side note, the Falcon SS we fitted to the BN2 fit pretty well--except for the known problem with the downpipes--but has a noticeably 'tinny' sound. bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 14:09:37 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:09:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <746096.70105.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <746096.70105.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hands down best sound It's Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA On Sep 26, 2010 10:27 AM, "HealeyRick" wrote: > Alan, > > Of all the reasons to keep the Healey six, the sound has to be the best! > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Sun, 9/26/10, Alan Seigrist wrote: > > From: Alan Seigrist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 9:27 AM > > That BJ8 sounds pretty nice. > > I bet it's fast but I think I like the sound of the standard 6 more. > It sounds like a bog-standard American muscle car to me. I guess > being an American, I want my gigantor two door land yachts to sound > like this, and my Healey to sound like a Healey. Please don't take > offense Modified AH friends. > > T > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 26 14:25:57 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:25:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: <3F4F5FE1-CE0A-44BF-9C34-7E85987B07FF@gmail.com> References: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> <3F4F5FE1-CE0A-44BF-9C34-7E85987B07FF@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000301cb5db9$07078f60$1516ae20$@net> There is no coolant in the oil. Ron -----Original Message----- From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 9:37 AM To: Alan Seigrist Cc: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) Check the oil for water I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Sep 26, 2010, at 6:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Is your coolant level going down? > > On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: >> Folks, >> >> Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not >> start. The >> problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark >> plugs >> resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. >> Upon >> cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened >> several >> months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in >> which >> this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open >> valves into >> the cylinders. >> >> However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 >> hours >> after driving the car approximately 60 miles. >> Any thoughts? >> >> Thanks, >> Ron From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 26 14:25:57 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:25:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: References: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> Message-ID: <000801cb5db9$0737ee30$15a7ca90$@net> Alan, If it is, not to the extent that I can tell. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 8:13 AM To: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) Is your coolant level going down? On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not start. The > problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark plugs > resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. Upon > cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened several > months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in which > this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open valves into > the cylinders. > > However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 hours > after driving the car approximately 60 miles. > Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Ron From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 14:30:36 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 13:30:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: <000301cb5db9$07078f60$1516ae20$@net> References: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> <3F4F5FE1-CE0A-44BF-9C34-7E85987B07FF@gmail.com> <000301cb5db9$07078f60$1516ae20$@net> Message-ID: That's great, but no help for your mystery ;) It's Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA On Sep 26, 2010 1:26 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: > There is no coolant in the oil. > > Ron > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] > Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 9:37 AM > To: Alan Seigrist > Cc: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > Check the oil for water > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > On Sep 26, 2010, at 6:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> Is your coolant level going down? >> >> On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: >>> Folks, >>> >>> Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not >>> start. The >>> problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark >>> plugs >>> resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. >>> Upon >>> cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened >>> several >>> months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in >>> which >>> this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open >>> valves into >>> the cylinders. >>> >>> However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 >>> hours >>> after driving the car approximately 60 miles. >>> Any thoughts? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Ron From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Sep 26 14:52:42 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:52:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! Message-ID: <20100926.135248.995.86662@mailpop07.dca.untd.com> I rest my case...................... > Hands down best sound > > It's Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions > Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA > > On Sep 26, 2010 10:27 AM, "HealeyRick" > wrote: > > Alan, > > > > Of all the reasons to keep the Healey six, the sound has to be the > best! > > > > Rick > > > > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > > > --- On Sun, 9/26/10, Alan Seigrist wrote: > > > > From: Alan Seigrist > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey > !! > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 9:27 AM > > > > That BJ8 sounds pretty nice. > > > > I bet it's fast but I think I like the sound of the standard 6 > more. > > It sounds like a bog-standard American muscle car to me. I guess > > being an American, I want my gigantor two door land yachts to > sound > > like this, and my Healey to sound like a Healey. Please don't > take > > offense Modified AH friends. > > > > T > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c9fb2b859c5e7bce31st06duc From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun Sep 26 15:17:43 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 14:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: <20100926.135248.995.86662@mailpop07.dca.untd.com> References: <20100926.135248.995.86662@mailpop07.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: I know that Sixes sound great. V8's have their thing. And V12's are another animal. Sixes fire six times per rev, and V8s fire four. How many do V12s fire per rev? Wilko On Sep 26, 2010, at 1:52 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > I rest my case...................... > >> Hands down best sound >> >> It's Erbs >> DIGS-4 Solutions >> Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA >> >> On Sep 26, 2010 10:27 AM, "HealeyRick" >> wrote: >>> Alan, >>> >>> Of all the reasons to keep the Healey six, the sound has to be the >> best! >>> >>> Rick From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Sep 26 15:18:52 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 14:18:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: References: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> <3F4F5FE1-CE0A-44BF-9C34-7E85987B07FF@gmail.com> <000301cb5db9$07078f60$1516ae20$@net> Message-ID: <007801cb5dc0$6b7d2a20$42777e60$@ca> When the car is running (after the initial warm-up), do you get any steam or condensation coming from the exhaust.....similar to a blown head gasket? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 1:31 PM To: Ron Ray Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) That's great, but no help for your mystery ;) It's Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA On Sep 26, 2010 1:26 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: > There is no coolant in the oil. > > Ron > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] > Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 9:37 AM > To: Alan Seigrist > Cc: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > Check the oil for water > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > On Sep 26, 2010, at 6:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> Is your coolant level going down? >> >> On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: >>> Folks, >>> >>> Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not >>> start. The >>> problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark >>> plugs >>> resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. >>> Upon >>> cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened >>> several >>> months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in >>> which >>> this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open >>> valves into >>> the cylinders. >>> >>> However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 >>> hours >>> after driving the car approximately 60 miles. >>> Any thoughts? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Ron _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Sep 26 15:59:48 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 07:59:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com><629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <28195638F749499D9CD5FD01142B8206@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Yes I agree the Edward Turner designed 2.5 litre Daimler V8 is a delight of an engine. A friend, sadly now deceased, fitted one to a Morris Minor, which I always thought was the perfect British conversion. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Sunday, 26 September 2010 11:28 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! That BJ8 sounds pretty nice. I bet it's fast but I think I like the sound of the standard 6 more. It sounds like a bog-standard American muscle car to me. I guess being an American, I want my gigantor two door land yachts to sound like this, and my Healey to sound like a Healey. Please don't take offense Modified AH friends. Think back to the times - William Lyons hated V8s as being too "American" and killed the wonderful, light & delightfully small 2.5" Daimler V8 hemi when Jaguar bought the company. He hated V8s so much that when the E-type needed a bigger motor, he purposefully designed the V12 double six motor just to prove a point. I always thought the Daimler V8 would be a perfect motor for the 100. Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From robertlarson at att.net Sun Sep 26 16:03:08 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 18:03:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: References: <20100926.135248.995.86662@mailpop07.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <4C9FC31C.4000104@att.net> 6 Times per rev? Maybe that is why they sound so nice, they were 2 strokes. Bob On 9/26/2010 5:17 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > I know that Sixes sound great. V8's have their thing. And V12's are > another animal. > > Sixes fire six times per rev, and V8s fire four. How many do V12s fire > per rev? > > Wilko > > On Sep 26, 2010, at 1:52 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > >> I rest my case...................... >> >>> Hands down best sound >>> >>> It's Erbs >>> DIGS-4 Solutions >>> Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA >>> >>> On Sep 26, 2010 10:27 AM, "HealeyRick" >>> wrote: >>>> Alan, >>>> >>>> Of all the reasons to keep the Healey six, the sound has to be the >>> best! >>>> >>>> Rick > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertlarson at att.net > 6 TIMES From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun Sep 26 16:11:26 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:11:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: <4C9FC31C.4000104@att.net> References: <20100926.135248.995.86662@mailpop07.dca.untd.com> <4C9FC31C.4000104@att.net> Message-ID: 2 strokes? Huh? On Sep 26, 2010, at 3:03 PM, Bob wrote: > 6 Times per rev? Maybe that is why they sound so nice, they were > 2 strokes. > > Bob > > > > On 9/26/2010 5:17 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: >> I know that Sixes sound great. V8's have their thing. And V12's are >> another animal. >> >> Sixes fire six times per rev, and V8s fire four. How many do V12s >> fire per rev? >> >> Wilko >> >> On Sep 26, 2010, at 1:52 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: >> >>> I rest my case...................... >>> >>>> Hands down best sound >>>> >>>> It's Erbs >>>> DIGS-4 Solutions >>>> Please excuse Typos. Sent from my Droid cellular PDA >>>> >>>> On Sep 26, 2010 10:27 AM, "HealeyRick" >>>> wrote: >>>>> Alan, >>>>> >>>>> Of all the reasons to keep the Healey six, the sound has to be the >>>> best! >>>>> >>>>> Rick >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertlarson at att.net >> > 6 TIMES From warthodson at aol.com Sun Sep 26 16:49:52 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 18:49:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: References: <20100926.135248.995.86662@mailpop07.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <8CD2BE444523183-1F74-2BA2A@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> Sixes fire 3 cylinders per revolution. I am pretty sure V12's fire 6 cylinders per revolution. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins Cc: List Healey Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 4:17 pm Subject: [Healeys] Engines I know that Sixes sound great. V8's have their thing. And V12's are another animal. Sixes fire six times per rev, and V8s fire four. How many do V12s fire per rev? Wilko From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun Sep 26 16:56:01 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:56:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Engines In-Reply-To: <8CD2BE444523183-1F74-2BA2A@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100926.135248.995.86662@mailpop07.dca.untd.com> <8CD2BE444523183-1F74-2BA2A@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8012AE43-2755-408D-85E3-A42E855F3532@cox.net> My mistake. duh... thanks On Sep 26, 2010, at 3:49 PM, Warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Sixes fire 3 cylinders per revolution. I am pretty sure V12's fire 6 > cylinders per revolution. > Gary Hodson > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins > Cc: List Healey > Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 4:17 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Engines > > I know that Sixes sound great. V8's have their thing. And V12's are > another animal. > > Sixes fire six times per rev, and V8s fire four. How many do V12s > fire per rev? > > Wilko From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Sep 26 18:10:36 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 00:10:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: References: , <746096.70105.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Well ... my vote would be for the 4's sound ... ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Hands down best sound > > It's Erbs > > On Sep 26, 2010 10:27 AM, "HealeyRick" wrote: > > Alan, > > > > Of all the reasons to keep the Healey six, the sound has to be the best! > > > > Rick From MBran89793 at aol.com Sun Sep 26 18:23:11 2010 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:23:11 EDT Subject: [Healeys] How many Cylinders fire per revolution? Message-ID: <1afd2.670c0333.39d13def@aol.com> _Torsional Characteristics of Piston Engine Output, by EPI Inc._ (http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/torsional_excitation_from_piston_engi nes.htm) Maybe this link will help to solve the question of how many pistons fire per revolution on the different engines, 4, 6, 8, 12, etc. From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 26 18:23:36 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:23:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mufflers References: <4C9F848E.5080604@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001c01cb5dda$3a06a9c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I'm happy with the Falcon SS I got from Moss for my BT7. Fits well, sounds like a Healey should. I've only Munched it 3 times in 600 miles. Its not gonna last long at this rate. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "healeylist" Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 1:36 PM Subject: [Healeys] Mufflers > I'm thinking about replacing the home-built Frankenmuffler on my BJ8 with > a stock-type, mild steel muffler. Comments on who has the best value, > sound, etc.? > > On a side note, the Falcon SS we fitted to the BN2 fit pretty well--except > for the known problem with the downpipes--but has a noticeably 'tinny' > sound. > > > bs > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Sep 26 18:27:46 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:27:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on the Blue Ridge Parkway In-Reply-To: <8171E961-9213-42D4-9DCC-2710B462FC1C@gmail.com> References: <8CD2B10EAA3D06B-1194-6334@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com> <8171E961-9213-42D4-9DCC-2710B462FC1C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <004701cb5dda$cf65a570$6e30f050$@rr.com> I was on the Blue Ridge Parkway from Tuesday through Friday, traveling with a blue and white BJ8. But my BJ8 is yellow and black, so if you saw us I think you would have remembered mine. We were traveling between Hillsville, VA and Asheville, NC. We ran across the mayor of Rome, GA (Wright Bagby) in his BRG BJ8 at the Little Switzerland Inn on Thursday, and he told me there was a Healey group from the Charlotte area meeting in Abingdon, VA that he was joining. Some of them were probably traveling the Parkway. The weather this week on the Parkway was spectacular. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 7:28 PM To: editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys on the Blue Ridge Parkway If it was a white BJ8, it may have been us. We're driving from Massachusetts to Phoenix, AZ with a stop in Abingdon, VA for a weekend Healey gathering with the North Carolina group. A good weekend. Randy Hicks From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Sep 26 18:36:01 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:36:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <28195638F749499D9CD5FD01142B8206@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com><629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <28195638F749499D9CD5FD01142B8206@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <4436AC84B8CF4D9E8BA0486BF821D783@Notebook> Me too! I traded a Daimler 2.5 litre V8 with the Healey Factory for the Ward Special. Loved the car & the motor, but the whole thing was spoiled by the Borg Warner type 35 auto. Got very close to putting in a 5 speed. When I bought the V6 car, I had the Daimler 2.5 motor as a fall back position if I couldn't get the 3.8 V6 complianced. Incidentally, the Healey Factory sold my Daimler to "an American Collector" when it was traded back to them by the next owner to me. Wonder where it is? (It's "Healey" metallic blue with grey leather) Cheers Peter -------------------------------------------------- From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:59 AM To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! > G'day > > Yes I agree the Edward Turner designed 2.5 litre Daimler V8 is a delight > of > an engine. > > A friend, sadly now deceased, fitted one to a Morris Minor, which I always > thought was the perfect British conversion. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 18:41:21 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:41:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] How many Cylinders fire per revolution? In-Reply-To: <1afd2.670c0333.39d13def@aol.com> References: <1afd2.670c0333.39d13def@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C9FE831.6000805@comcast.net> What about 3, 5, 7, 9 and 13 cylinder engines? bs On 9/26/2010 5:23 PM, MBran89793 at aol.com wrote: > _Torsional Characteristics of Piston Engine Output, by EPI Inc._ > (http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/torsional_excitation_from_piston_engi > nes.htm) > > Maybe this link will help to solve the question of how many pistons fire > per revolution on the different engines, 4, 6, 8, 12, etc. > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From MBran89793 at aol.com Sun Sep 26 18:59:18 2010 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:59:18 EDT Subject: [Healeys] How many Cylinders fire per revolution? Message-ID: <1c75c.778541d6.39d14666@aol.com> Guess you'll have to figure that out. In a message dated 9/26/2010 8:43:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: What about 3, 5, 7, 9 and 13 cylinder engines? bs On 9/26/2010 5:23 PM, MBran89793 at aol.com wrote: > _Torsional Characteristics of Piston Engine Output, by EPI Inc._ > (http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/torsional_excitation_from_piston_engi > nes.htm) > > Maybe this link will help to solve the question of how many pistons fire > per revolution on the different engines, 4, 6, 8, 12, etc. > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sun Sep 26 19:56:48 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:56:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay Message-ID: Hey check out item number 230530896864 on ebay. 14,000 original mile car! I have known this car and its owners for several years now. A truly amazing car, and 100 percent legit. Hope it goes to a good home. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Sun Sep 26 20:14:18 2010 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 19:14:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mufflers References: <4C9F848E.5080604@comcast.net> <001c01cb5dda$3a06a9c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: I have a Falcon SS exhaust on my 1961 3000 MK2 (tri-carb, 2 seat). It fit pretty good...had to make a different bracket for just behind the muffler. It sounds great...just like a Healey should. Have not had a problem w/ ground clearance. John Snyder > I'm happy with the Falcon SS I got from Moss for my BT7. Fits well, > sounds like a Healey should. I've only Munched it 3 times in 600 miles. > Its not gonna last long at this rate. > > Mark From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Sep 26 20:20:43 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 19:20:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <959989.9380.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> There's also a 16,000 mi BJ8 http://tinyurl.com/25hwoxh and a 21,000 BT7 http://tinyurl.com/23hfot7 but that BT7 is a real beaut. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 9/26/10, S and T Miller wrote: From: S and T Miller Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 9:56 PM Hey check out item number 230530896864 on ebay. 14,000 original mile car! I have known this car and its owners for several years now. A truly amazing car, and 100 percent legit. Hope it goes to a good home. The Millers "British Car Nuts" From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 20:34:23 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:34:23 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Mufflers In-Reply-To: <4C9F848E.5080604@comcast.net> References: <4C9F848E.5080604@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - I put the Falcon on my BJ8 several years ago. Made sure to put new rear springs and nestled the mufflers up as close to the chassis without touching. Having done that, only hit the mufflers twice in 15 years. For the BN1 BN2 I would recommend the bell silencer over the Falcon, it is a very nice system, not tinny. The falcon system on my BJ8 does not sound tinny at all, and in fact after the carbon builds up a bit inside, it gets a bit quieter. Alan On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 1:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I'm thinking about replacing the home-built Frankenmuffler on my BJ8 with > a stock-type, mild steel muffler. Comments on who has the best value, > sound, etc.? > > On a side note, the Falcon SS we fitted to the BN2 fit pretty well--except > for the known problem with the downpipes--but has a noticeably 'tinny' > sound. > > > bs > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Sep 26 21:00:56 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:00:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] How cool is this! Message-ID: <001a01cb5df0$34ab5910$9e020b30$@ca> Hi All I recently celebrated my 50th birthday and my wife gave me a fabulous gift. She hired a locally known painter (Michael Stockton) to paint some of the British Cars that I've owned over the years. The painting was done in Deep Cove, North Vancouver where I live... Those of you in the Pacific Northwest will know Michael's work as he does the painting each year for the British Car show held at Van Dusen Gardens in Vancouver. Anyways, I'm tickled Pink and thought I would share the painting with you...see the attached link. Click on the picture to select...Enlarge it by clicking the "slideshow" icon. www.picasaweb.google.com/justfuelnaround/PaulSCars#slideshow/552140839316496 6834 www.picasaweb.google.com/justfuelnaround Here's a link to Michaels website.. www.whiterockgallery.com/Michael_Stockdale.htm Regards, Paul Paul From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Sep 26 21:02:51 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:02:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mufflers In-Reply-To: References: <4C9F848E.5080604@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002201cb5df0$7980ced0$6c826c70$@ca> For those worried about the "tinny" sound, I think you'll find that the steel muffler versus the stainless muffler will give you less.....the softer metal absorbs the extra vibration. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 7:34 PM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mufflers Bob - I put the Falcon on my BJ8 several years ago. Made sure to put new rear springs and nestled the mufflers up as close to the chassis without touching. Having done that, only hit the mufflers twice in 15 years. For the BN1 BN2 I would recommend the bell silencer over the Falcon, it is a very nice system, not tinny. The falcon system on my BJ8 does not sound tinny at all, and in fact after the carbon builds up a bit inside, it gets a bit quieter. Alan On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 1:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I'm thinking about replacing the home-built Frankenmuffler on my BJ8 with > a stock-type, mild steel muffler. Comments on who has the best value, > sound, etc.? > > On a side note, the Falcon SS we fitted to the BN2 fit pretty well--except > for the known problem with the downpipes--but has a noticeably 'tinny' > sound. > > > bs > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Sun Sep 26 21:03:44 2010 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 23:03:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <958927.48798.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <958927.48798.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002e01cb5df0$9bb58590$d32090b0$@com> Not too shabby for a 70 yr old driver...:-) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 11:07 AM To: Ed; scott willis Cc: jensen-cars at british-steel.org; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Re: A serious YELLOW Healey !! Thanks, Scott. Here's Bill McMahon's on track: http://www.vimeo.com/14546725 p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Sep 26 21:07:48 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:07:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Mufflers Message-ID: <763840.52724.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I have the Falcon too. Scraped it once. Figure it'll hold up to abuse longer than the mild steel. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 26, 2010, at 8:23 PM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: I'm happy with the Falcon SS I got from Moss for my BT7. Fits well, sounds like a Healey should. I've only Munched it 3 times in 600 miles. Its not gonna last long at this rate. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "healeylist" Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 1:36 PM Subject: [Healeys] Mufflers I'm thinking about replacing the home-built Frankenmuffler on my BJ8 with a stock-type, mild steel muffler. Comments on who has the best value, sound, etc.? On a side note, the Falcon SS we fitted to the BN2 fit pretty well--except for the known problem with the downpipes--but has a noticeably 'tinny' sound. bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 26 21:18:17 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:18:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Official custom interior colors - BJ8 Message-ID: All - What custom colors or combinations were available special order from the factory for a '64 BJ8, or was it just Black, Blue and Red? I understand that in the UK you could order leather front seats, but was curious about what interior/carpet combinations were available. Am in the process of stripping my BJ8 and would like to know what color options would be period correct Thanks! Alan From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Sep 26 22:10:19 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:10:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] B-J auction Message-ID: Just returned from the Barrett Jackson auction and although the Healeys didn't command what they have in the past they came in relatively high compared the T-birds and Corvette and many other cars. Most cars were way down. Rich Kahn From joemulqueen at yahoo.com Sun Sep 26 22:13:59 2010 From: joemulqueen at yahoo.com (joe mulqueen) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:13:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] FS - suspension bushings Message-ID: <152894.57923.qm@web82207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello, I have for sale a set of prothane suspension bushings for lower inner big Healey control arms. Still in original packaging but bought them about 7 yrs ago. $50 obo plus postage. Regards, JoeM 'BT7 (still a 1/2 complete resto project) Santa Clara, CA From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Sep 27 00:19:31 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 02:19:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2C2314B33BA6-FF4-3B553@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> I looked at this car at Hersey PA AACA meet nearly two years ago. Quite a time capsule. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: S and T Miller To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 3:56 pm Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay Hey check out item number 230530896864 on ebay. 14,000 original mile car! I have known this car and its owners for several years now. A truly amazing car, and 100 percent legit. Hope it goes to a good home. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Sep 27 02:12:15 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:12:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <4436AC84B8CF4D9E8BA0486BF821D783@Notebook> References: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com> <629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <28195638F749499D9CD5FD01142B8206@PatrickQuinnPC> <4436AC84B8CF4D9E8BA0486BF821D783@Notebook> Message-ID: Thats not a BJ8. It's a replica made by HMC. Derek On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 2:36 AM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > Me too! I traded a Daimler 2.5 litre V8 with the Healey Factory for the > Ward Special. Loved the car & the motor, but the whole thing was spoiled by > the Borg Warner type 35 auto. Got very close to putting in a 5 speed. > > When I bought the V6 car, I had the Daimler 2.5 motor as a fall back > position if I couldn't get the 3.8 V6 complianced. > > Incidentally, the Healey Factory sold my Daimler to "an American Collector" > when it was traded back to them by the next owner to me. Wonder where it is? > (It's "Healey" metallic blue with grey leather) > > Cheers > > Peter > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" > Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:59 AM > > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! > > G'day >> >> Yes I agree the Edward Turner designed 2.5 litre Daimler V8 is a delight >> of >> an engine. >> >> A friend, sadly now deceased, fitted one to a Morris Minor, which I always >> thought was the perfect British conversion. >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 27 03:28:48 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:28:48 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] FOUND THIS ONE A serious YELLOW Healey !! In-Reply-To: <28195638F749499D9CD5FD01142B8206@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <4C9E1F20.5000001@justbrits.com><629518.58090.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <28195638F749499D9CD5FD01142B8206@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <4CA063D0.7040505@chello.nl> Although it was a very nice engine I seem to remember it was not known for its reliability and durability. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Mon Sep 27 03:35:59 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:35:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Historic Racing in Sweden Message-ID: <2DD94D5C-96A3-4035-AD7E-0E08C95F9E20@bornet.net> For anyone that might be interested I have published some images of historic racing in Sweden. Featuring Big Healeys amongst other cars. Click the following link: http://www.concourshealeys.com/?cat=5 Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Sep 27 04:34:10 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 06:34:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Official custom interior colors - BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <99DCD146DECA444E8B04EC6C59ED5020@LIFEBOOK> Alan, Don't forget, grey (actually more like a bone or pale mushroom shade) was also an interior trim colour. It was combined with Colorado Red, or Florida Green. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Seigrist" Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 11:18 PM To: "Healey" Subject: [Healeys] Official custom interior colors - BJ8 > All - > > What custom colors or combinations were available special order from the > factory for a '64 BJ8, or was it just Black, Blue and Red? I understand > that in the UK you could order leather front seats, but was curious about > what interior/carpet combinations were available. > > Am in the process of stripping my BJ8 and would like to know what color > options would be period correct > > Thanks! > > Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From peter.svilans at rogers.com Mon Sep 27 05:14:33 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 07:14:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay Message-ID: <006801cb5e35$29f152f0$6601a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> I saw the car at Hershey as well. A wonderful, amazing car, in good hands now. The previous owner did not appreciate its historical value as much, and had made "improvements" such as Minilites, a repro distributor cap, and bumblebee distributor wires, but the replaced original parts were still there in a box. It still retains that certain feel and smell that only an original Austin Healey has. Peter From Paull at glasgows.co.uk Mon Sep 27 05:15:13 2010 From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:15:13 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice - update Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19318@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Chaps A few months ago I was having trouble with poor acceleration and received loads of helpful advice (thank you all!) about the possible causes; vacuum leak, timing, poor electrics, valves, etc. One piece of advice was to retard the ignition and see what happens. I did this ... and it has fixed it! But now the timing mark on the flywheel is about half an inch out, but it runs normally. I assume this doesn't matter? Also, I now have two supplementary questions which I will send on separate emails (to keep the 'threads' simple). Thanks to you all again Paul Leeks Lancashire 100/6 BN4 Glasgows Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566 Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk Rebuilt. Rebranded. Relaunched. Visit the new Glasgows website www.glasgows.co.uk EventCast - See the future ... be part of the events revolution To view an on-line demonstration of our EventCast service please click here . EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ From Paull at glasgows.co.uk Mon Sep 27 05:15:50 2010 From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:15:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Air filters Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19319@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Chaps I have original Coopers air filters on my BN4 and the gauze inside seems to be pretty decrepit (with bits of wire floating around). However, they seem to be sealed units, so is there anyway of refurbishing them? Many thanks Paul Leeks Lancashire 100/6 BN4 Glasgows Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566 Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk Rebuilt. Rebranded. Relaunched. Visit the new Glasgows website www.glasgows.co.uk EventCast - See the future ... be part of the events revolution To view an on-line demonstration of our EventCast service please click here . EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ From Paull at glasgows.co.uk Mon Sep 27 05:17:02 2010 From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:17:02 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Chaps Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that the oil pressure seems to be a little low on the dial. When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is as follows: 20psi at 3,000 and 30psi at 4,000. So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I see somewhere about 'bleeding' the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the correct reading? Many thanks Paul Leeks Lancashire 100/6 BN4 Glasgows Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566 Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk Rebuilt. Rebranded. Relaunched. Visit the new Glasgows website www.glasgows.co.uk EventCast - See the future ... be part of the events revolution To view an on-line demonstration of our EventCast service please click here . EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Mon Sep 27 05:39:04 2010 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 07:39:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay In-Reply-To: <006801cb5e35$29f152f0$6601a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <006801cb5e35$29f152f0$6601a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <77F19769-DC56-4EDF-96A1-B8E17FD3C77C@cgocable.ca> For those who could be interested by this nice car ,this ad was on the web in august 2008 and pace by M.Charlie Baldwin : My Healey is up sale. 1960 BT7 HBT7L/5788 Original as found with less than 14 thousand miles New Tires and wheels (Have Originals)(Original Spare never been on road) New Exhaust (Have Original) Top and Interior original Factory Hardtop Starts and Runs every time $37,500 I am always surprise to see on ebay original healey for sale. How about Club's network ..... ((((Hope it goes to a good home((((( GIlbert Le 10-09-27 ` 07:14, Peter Svilans a icrit : > I saw the car at Hershey as well. A wonderful, amazing car, in > good hands > now. The previous owner did not appreciate its historical value as > much, and > had made "improvements" such as Minilites, a repro distributor cap, > and > bumblebee distributor wires, but the replaced original parts were > still there > in a box. It still retains that certain feel and smell that only an > original > Austin Healey has. > > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 27 05:46:36 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 13:46:36 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: <4CA0841C.7050807@chello.nl> These pressures are low, one would at least expect 50psi at 2500rpm on a hot healthy engine using 20W50. Suspects are: Bearings worn oilpump worn wrong or blocked oil filter oil pump pick up blocked oil pressure relief valve stuck or spring broken oil pressure gauge faulty Bleeding the oil gauge will not have any effect what so ever, pressure is pressure, whether from oil or air. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 06:11:31 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 05:11:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <4CA0841C.7050807@chello.nl> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <4CA0841C.7050807@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4CA089F3.8050902@comcast.net> Add: worn rocker shaft/bushings. bs On 9/27/2010 4:46 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > These pressures are low, one would at least expect 50psi at 2500rpm on > a hot healthy engine using 20W50. > Suspects are: > Bearings worn > oilpump worn > wrong or blocked oil filter > oil pump pick up blocked > oil pressure relief valve stuck or spring broken > oil pressure gauge faulty > > Bleeding the oil gauge will not have any effect what so ever, pressure > is pressure, whether from oil or air. > > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 27 06:26:21 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 20:26:21 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: Paul - If it's low when hot, it's probably not air in the line. To double check, put a tester pressure gauge on the feed pipe mount on the block. By your description, I suspect you probably did replace the relief valve spring, right? If so, you probably got one of the springs that are floating around the repro market that is just a couple mil too short. Many on this list have put a washer between the spring and relief pig to fix this exact problem. I'd start there, it's an easy fix! Alan On 9/27/10, Paul Leeks wrote: > Chaps > > > > Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that the oil pressure seems to > be a little low on the dial. > > > > When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is as follows: 20psi at 3,000 > and 30psi at 4,000. > > > > So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I see somewhere about > 'bleeding' > the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the correct reading? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Paul Leeks > > Lancashire > > 100/6 BN4 > > > > > > Glasgows > Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW > > Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566 > Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk > > Rebuilt. Rebranded. Relaunched. Visit the new Glasgows website > www.glasgows.co.uk > > > > EventCast - See the future ... be part of the events revolution > > To view an on-line demonstration of our EventCast service please click here > . > > > > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not > necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom > it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. > Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message > to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please > notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and > delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & > Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. > 2257022. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The > service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive > anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: > http://www.star.net.uk > ________________________________________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 06:32:27 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 05:32:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice - update In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19318@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19318@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: <4CA08EDB.1000400@comcast.net> re: "One piece of advice was to retard the ignition and see what happens. I did this ... and it has fixed it! But now the timing mark on the flywheel is about half an inch out, but it runs normally. I assume this doesn't matter?" The (sole) timing mark on the crank balancer outer ring (should) align with the pointer on the timing cover at TDC (piston 'top dead center' on cylinder #1). If you're using a 'regular' timing light, a half-inch off will be about 5-10 degrees advanced or retarded, depending on which side of the pointer the line is on, engine speed and whether or not you disconnected the vacuum advance line (and sealed it off at the carburettor). The only way to get a correct reading--that I know of--is to use an engine analyzer or advance meter. Usually, timing too advanced causes detonation ('pinging') under load. Too retarded causes poor acceleration and overheating. Also, there's a (slim) chance the pulley/balancer has slipped on the rubber buffer between the inner and outer rings, so the timing mark may be incorrect. bs On 9/27/2010 4:15 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: > Chaps > > > > A few months ago I was having trouble with poor acceleration and received > loads of helpful advice (thank you all!) about the possible causes; vacuum > leak, timing, poor electrics, valves, etc. > > > > One piece of advice was to retard the ignition and see what happens. I did > this ... and it has fixed it! But now the timing mark on the flywheel is > about half an inch out, but it runs normally. I assume this doesn't matter? > > > > Also, I now have two supplementary questions which I will send on separate > emails (to keep the 'threads' simple). > > > > Thanks to you all again > > > > Paul Leeks > > Lancashire > > 100/6 BN4 > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mgcharlie at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 06:32:27 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 08:32:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay In-Reply-To: <8CD2C2314B33BA6-FF4-3B553@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2C2314B33BA6-FF4-3B553@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4CA08EDB.3000707@comcast.net> Thanks, Perry. If the car does not sell on Ebay, the plan is to have it back at Hershey this year also. Charlie healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > I looked at this car at Hersey PA AACA meet nearly two years ago. > Quite a time capsule. > Aloha > Perry > > -----Original Message----- > From: S and T Miller > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 3:56 pm > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay > > > Hey check out item number 230530896864 on ebay. 14,000 original mile > car! I > have known this car and its owners for several years now. A truly > amazing > car, and 100 percent legit. Hope it goes to a good home. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 27 06:32:55 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 20:32:55 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Air filters In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19319@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19319@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: If you are running a newly rebuilt motor, I'd recommend taking the Coopers air cleaners and loading them in the pigeon launcher mounted on the front bumper of your Land Rover, they are ideal for skeet practice at the country estate. Pip pip! There's no substitute for proper paper or K&N filters, first, and secondly oiled foam elements. Put the Coopers on only when you take it to the show. Cheers - Alan On 9/27/10, Paul Leeks wrote: > Chaps > > > > I have original Coopers air filters on my BN4 and the gauze inside seems to > be pretty decrepit (with bits of wire floating around). > > > > However, they seem to be sealed units, so is there anyway of refurbishing > them? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Paul Leeks > > Lancashire > > 100/6 BN4 > > > > > > > > Glasgows > Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW > > Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566 > Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk > > Rebuilt. Rebranded. Relaunched. Visit the new Glasgows website > www.glasgows.co.uk > > > > EventCast - See the future ... be part of the events revolution > > To view an on-line demonstration of our EventCast service please click here > . > > > > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not > necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom > it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. > Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message > to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please > notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and > delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & > Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. > 2257022. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The > service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive > anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: > http://www.star.net.uk > ________________________________________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From mgcharlie at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 06:36:25 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 08:36:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay In-Reply-To: <006801cb5e35$29f152f0$6601a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <006801cb5e35$29f152f0$6601a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <4CA08FC9.9060406@comcast.net> Thanks Peter, In defense of the previous owner, he did a few things to personalize the car and make it easier to drive, but as you say kept the original bits. Charlie Peter Svilans wrote: > I saw the car at Hershey as well. A wonderful, amazing car, in good hands > now. The previous owner did not appreciate its historical value as much, and > had made "improvements" such as Minilites, a repro distributor cap, and > bumblebee distributor wires, but the replaced original parts were still there > in a box. It still retains that certain feel and smell that only an original > Austin Healey has. > > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Sep 27 06:40:24 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 08:40:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay In-Reply-To: <4CA08EDB.3000707@comcast.net> References: <8CD2C2314B33BA6-FF4-3B553@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> <4CA08EDB.3000707@comcast.net> Message-ID: <023c01cb5e41$28a55480$79effd80$@verizon.net> Any idea when as we are going to be there Thanksgiving weekend and I would love to see it. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 8:32 AM To: healeyguy at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay Thanks, Perry. If the car does not sell on Ebay, the plan is to have it back at Hershey this year also. Charlie healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > I looked at this car at Hersey PA AACA meet nearly two years ago. > Quite a time capsule. > Aloha > Perry > > -----Original Message----- > From: S and T Miller > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 3:56 pm > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay > > > Hey check out item number 230530896864 on ebay. 14,000 original mile > car! I have known this car and its owners for several years now. A > truly amazing car, and 100 percent legit. Hope it goes to a good > home. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" From amalin at mac.com Mon Sep 27 06:50:08 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 08:50:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Air filters In-Reply-To: References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19319@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: <3A81631D-A078-4DE4-8F35-CE26AAD12F73@mac.com> What's the K&N part number for filters for a Tricarb? Al Malin On Sep 27, 2010, at 8:32 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > If you are running a newly rebuilt motor, I'd recommend taking the > Coopers air cleaners and loading them in the pigeon launcher mounted > on the front bumper of your Land Rover, they are ideal for skeet > practice at the country estate. Pip pip! > > There's no substitute for proper paper or K&N filters, first, and > secondly oiled foam elements. > > Put the Coopers on only when you take it to the show. > > Cheers - > > Alan From mgcharlie at comcast.net Mon Sep 27 07:03:27 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:03:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay In-Reply-To: <023c01cb5e41$28a55480$79effd80$@verizon.net> References: <8CD2C2314B33BA6-FF4-3B553@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> <4CA08EDB.3000707@comcast.net> <023c01cb5e41$28a55480$79effd80$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4CA0961F.3030608@comcast.net> John, Hershey, to all of us familiar with it, means the AACA Fall Hershey meet which is Oct. 6-9 this year. If any of you are within striking distance, white Healey or not, Hershey is a wonderful experience for a car person. The flea market runs the whole time, with many cleared out by Saturday. The show is Saturday and is very much worthwhile. There is also a car corral where cars are for sale. Besides all of that, there will most likely be an auction by one of the major auction houses. If you don't have a hotel room, though, it will be quite difficult to get one close by. I live around 40 miles away, so just commute each day. For any of you who wish to find us, we will be in the car corral between the orange field and the car show field. This is the same place that we were last year. Charlie John Sims wrote: > Any idea when as we are going to be there Thanksgiving weekend and I would > love to see it. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin > Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 8:32 AM > To: healeyguy at aol.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay > > Thanks, Perry. If the car does not sell on Ebay, the plan is to have it > back at Hershey this year also. > Charlie > > healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > >> I looked at this car at Hersey PA AACA meet nearly two years ago. >> Quite a time capsule. >> Aloha >> Perry >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: S and T Miller >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 3:56 pm >> Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay >> >> >> Hey check out item number 230530896864 on ebay. 14,000 original mile >> car! I have known this car and its owners for several years now. A >> truly amazing car, and 100 percent legit. Hope it goes to a good >> home. >> >> The Millers >> "British Car Nuts" [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Sep 27 07:07:36 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:07:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Air filters In-Reply-To: <3A81631D-A078-4DE4-8F35-CE26AAD12F73@mac.com> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19319@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <3A81631D-A078-4DE4-8F35-CE26AAD12F73@mac.com> Message-ID: <023d01cb5e44$f5226450$df672cf0$@verizon.net> Check this site: http://www.aptfast.com/ for filters that match your carbs. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Malin Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 8:50 AM To: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air filters What's the K&N part number for filters for a Tricarb? Al Malin On Sep 27, 2010, at 8:32 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > If you are running a newly rebuilt motor, I'd recommend taking the > Coopers air cleaners and loading them in the pigeon launcher mounted > on the front bumper of your Land Rover, they are ideal for skeet > practice at the country estate. Pip pip! > > There's no substitute for proper paper or K&N filters, first, and > secondly oiled foam elements. > > Put the Coopers on only when you take it to the show. > > Cheers - > > Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Sep 27 07:09:58 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:09:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay In-Reply-To: <4CA0961F.3030608@comcast.net> References: <8CD2C2314B33BA6-FF4-3B553@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> <4CA08EDB.3000707@comcast.net> <023c01cb5e41$28a55480$79effd80$@verizon.net> <4CA0961F.3030608@comcast.net> Message-ID: <024101cb5e45$499cfa90$dcd6efb0$@verizon.net> OK I was thinking of the museum on the outskirts of Hershey. John -----Original Message----- From: Charlie Baldwin [mailto:mgcharlie at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 9:03 AM To: John Sims Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay John, Hershey, to all of us familiar with it, means the AACA Fall Hershey meet which is Oct. 6-9 this year. If any of you are within striking distance, white Healey or not, Hershey is a wonderful experience for a car person. The flea market runs the whole time, with many cleared out by Saturday. The show is Saturday and is very much worthwhile. There is also a car corral where cars are for sale. Besides all of that, there will most likely be an auction by one of the major auction houses. If you don't have a hotel room, though, it will be quite difficult to get one close by. I live around 40 miles away, so just commute each day. For any of you who wish to find us, we will be in the car corral between the orange field and the car show field. This is the same place that we were last year. Charlie John Sims wrote: > Any idea when as we are going to be there Thanksgiving weekend and I > would love to see it. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Sep 27 07:45:19 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 15:45:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] offset bracket for the cold air box question Message-ID: <9A29B3EF988347A2AFC6CBF3E27601B9@tm> Hello, Could any of 100M owners tell me how deep is the bracket offsetting the left-hand shroud support? Mine is 2" but I think it should be 2.75", otherwise the cold air box does not clear the shroud support. There is also a possibility I am doing something wrong.. Best, tadek From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Mon Sep 27 09:22:22 2010 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:22:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Historic Racing in Sweden In-Reply-To: <2DD94D5C-96A3-4035-AD7E-0E08C95F9E20@bornet.net> References: <2DD94D5C-96A3-4035-AD7E-0E08C95F9E20@bornet.net> Message-ID: <0de601cb5e57$c9af36a0$5d0da3e0$@net> Sorry Magnus, none of the pictures captioned FV, are FV. Herb Miller -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Magnus Karlsson Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 4:36 AM To: Healey Lista Subject: [Healeys] Historic Racing in Sweden For anyone that might be interested I have published some images of historic racing in Sweden. Featuring Big Healeys amongst other cars. Click the following link: http://www.concourshealeys.com/?cat=5 Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net From scvc70 at epix.net Mon Sep 27 09:47:46 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:47:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay References: <8CD2C2314B33BA6-FF4-3B553@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com><4CA08EDB.3000707@comcast.net><023c01cb5e41$28a55480$79effd80$@verizon.net> <4CA0961F.3030608@comcast.net> Message-ID: Healey listers coming to Hershey are invited to stop by our spaces in the Chocolate Field, CU 40 - 41, for a chat -- there might even be a few Healey bits among our assorted British stuff. Sarah Carr & Durl Edwards BN1 and MGC in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Baldwin" To: "John Sims" Cc: Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 9:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 14,000 mile car on ebay > John, > Hershey, to all of us familiar with it, means the AACA Fall Hershey meet > which is Oct. 6-9 this year. If any of you are within striking > distance, white Healey or not, Hershey is a wonderful experience for a > car person. The flea market runs the whole time, with many cleared out > by Saturday. The show is Saturday and is very much worthwhile. There > is also a car corral where cars are for sale. Besides all of that, > there will most likely be an auction by one of the major auction houses. > If you don't have a hotel room, though, it will be quite difficult to > get one close by. I live around 40 miles away, so just commute each day. > For any of you who wish to find us, we will be in the car corral between > the orange field and the car show field. This is the same place that we > were last year. > Charlie > > John Sims wrote: >> Any idea when as we are going to be there Thanksgiving weekend and I >> would >> love to see it. >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> http://www.healey6.com From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Sep 27 13:46:03 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:46:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?pinion_nut?= Message-ID: <20100927194603.28494.qmail@server278.com> anyone know offhand the socket size for the nut on the end of the pinion shaft? need to change a seal. hjim From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Sep 27 15:41:10 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:41:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Air filters In-Reply-To: <3A81631D-A078-4DE4-8F35-CE26AAD12F73@mac.com> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19319@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <3A81631D-A078-4DE4-8F35-CE26AAD12F73@mac.com> Message-ID: <4CA10F76.8020302@earthlink.net> Al, Part number 56-9320 -$57 each. On ebay 200517548834 if you want to buy from K&N. You'll have to figure out what to do with the breather hose from the valve cover. I replaced it with a K&N breather, but I don't have the part number handy. Bob 3000 Mk I registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php Al Malin wrote: > What's the K&N part number for filters for a Tricarb? > > Al Malin > > > > On Sep 27, 2010, at 8:32 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> If you are running a newly rebuilt motor, I'd recommend taking the >> Coopers air cleaners and loading them in the pigeon launcher mounted >> on the front bumper of your Land Rover, they are ideal for skeet >> practice at the country estate. Pip pip! >> >> There's no substitute for proper paper or K&N filters, first, and >> secondly oiled foam elements. >> >> Put the Coopers on only when you take it to the show. >> >> Cheers - >> >> Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 27 16:07:17 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:07:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: <007801cb5dc0$6b7d2a20$42777e60$@ca> References: <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net> <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net> <3F4F5FE1-CE0A-44BF-9C34-7E85987B07FF@gmail.com> <000301cb5db9$07078f60$1516ae20$@net> <007801cb5dc0$6b7d2a20$42777e60$@ca> Message-ID: <000001cb5e90$59d2a630$0d77f290$@net> There is not any steam or condensation that I recall. I will double check though in the next few days. I agree it does sound like a head gasket leak between the cylinders and the water jackets. However, I would be very surprised if this condition occurred at all 6 cylinders. Ron -----Original Message----- From: PG [mailto:britishcars at shaw.ca] Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 4:19 PM To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ron Ray' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) When the car is running (after the initial warm-up), do you get any steam or condensation coming from the exhaust.....similar to a blown head gasket? On Sep 26, 2010 1:26 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: > There is no coolant in the oil. > > Ron > -----Original Message----- > From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] > Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 9:37 AM > To: Alan Seigrist > Cc: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > Check the oil for water > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: Folks, Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not start. The problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark plugs resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. Upon cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened several months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in which this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open valves into the cylinders. However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 hours after driving the car approximately 60 miles. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ron From ynotink at msn.com Mon Sep 27 16:37:50 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 22:37:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: <000001cb5e90$59d2a630$0d77f290$@net> References: , <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net>, <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net>, , <3F4F5FE1-CE0A-44BF-9C34-7E85987B07FF@gmail.com>, <000301cb5db9$07078f60$1516ae20$@net>, , <007801cb5dc0$6b7d2a20$42777e60$@ca>, <000001cb5e90$59d2a630$0d77f290$@net> Message-ID: That doesn't necessarily mean there is no leak. I had coolant leaking into the combustion chambers of all cylinders (solid copper head gasket) and never saw any evidence in the exhaust. You could sure see it when I pulled the head though. I have put o-rings in all of the oil and coolant passages now and some radiator sealant and it looks like I finally have a seal. I hope... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 > From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net > To: britishcars at shaw.ca; eyera3 at gmail.com > Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:07:17 -0500 > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > There is not any steam or condensation that I recall. > I will double check though in the next few days. > > I agree it does sound like a head gasket leak between the cylinders and the > water jackets. However, I would be very surprised if this condition > occurred at all 6 cylinders. > > Ron > > > -----Original Message----- > From: PG [mailto:britishcars at shaw.ca] > Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 4:19 PM > To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ron Ray' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > When the car is running (after the initial warm-up), do you get any steam or > condensation coming from the exhaust.....similar to a blown head gasket? > > On Sep 26, 2010 1:26 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: > > There is no coolant in the oil. > > > > Ron > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] > > Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 9:37 AM > > To: Alan Seigrist > > Cc: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > > > Check the oil for water > > > > I Erbs > > Sent from my iPod > > > On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not start. The > problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark plugs > resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. > Upon cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened several > months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in which > this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open valves into > the cylinders. > However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 hours > after driving the car approximately 60 miles. > Any thoughts? > Thanks, > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From ynotink at msn.com Mon Sep 27 16:43:50 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 22:43:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) In-Reply-To: <000001cb5e90$59d2a630$0d77f290$@net> References: , <01b901cb5d0e$aacedc80$006c9580$@verizon.net>, <003201cb5d79$d3417720$79c46560$@net>, , <3F4F5FE1-CE0A-44BF-9C34-7E85987B07FF@gmail.com>, <000301cb5db9$07078f60$1516ae20$@net>, , <007801cb5dc0$6b7d2a20$42777e60$@ca>, <000001cb5e90$59d2a630$0d77f290$@net> Message-ID: On the other hand, the rust question sounds to me more like condensation. Anti-freeze would have a tendency to inhibit corrosion, while condensed water is highly reactive. Do you do a lot of short drives where the engine doesn't have a chance to warm up? Could it be some other type of deposit rather than iron oxide? Inquiring minds want to know... Bill Lawrence > From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net > To: britishcars at shaw.ca; eyera3 at gmail.com > Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:07:17 -0500 > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > There is not any steam or condensation that I recall. > I will double check though in the next few days. > > I agree it does sound like a head gasket leak between the cylinders and the > water jackets. However, I would be very surprised if this condition > occurred at all 6 cylinders. > > Ron > > > -----Original Message----- > From: PG [mailto:britishcars at shaw.ca] > Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 4:19 PM > To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ron Ray' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > When the car is running (after the initial warm-up), do you get any steam or > condensation coming from the exhaust.....similar to a blown head gasket? > > On Sep 26, 2010 1:26 PM, "Ron Ray" wrote: > > There is no coolant in the oil. > > > > Ron > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] > > Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 9:37 AM > > To: Alan Seigrist > > Cc: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rusty Sparkplugs (not my dog's name) > > > > Check the oil for water > > > > I Erbs > > Sent from my iPod > > > On 9/26/10, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > Last spring, after my 3000 BT7 had sat for a while, it would not start. The > problem was that a coating of surface rust had formed on the spark plugs > resulting in the inability for the spark to jump across the gap. > Upon cleaning the plugs the car started immediately. This happened several > months later. I am assuming the cause is humid air and the ease in which > this humid air can enter the carburetors and pass through open valves into > the cylinders. > However, this same problem occurred this past week in less than 24 hours > after driving the car approximately 60 miles. > Any thoughts? > Thanks, > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Mon Sep 27 17:42:50 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 16:42:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] offset bracket for the cold air box question In-Reply-To: <9A29B3EF988347A2AFC6CBF3E27601B9@tm> Message-ID: <408375.39940.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> In inches the measurements on my bracket are 2 3/8, 1 1/2 and 1 The cold air box has about 1/4 inch clearance from the frame without the 1/8 carburetor spacers. The bracket is the original piece. Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 Factory M --- On Mon, 9/27/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Subject: [Healeys] offset bracket for the cold air box question To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Monday, September 27, 2010, 6:45 AM Hello, Could any of 100M owners tell me how deep is the bracket offsetting the left-hand shroud support? Mine is 2" but I think it should be 2.75", otherwise the cold air box does not clear the shroud support. There is also a possibility I am doing something wrong.. Best, tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 27 20:19:50 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 22:19:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> FWIW, You guys crack me up. My rebuild is running at about 40lbs hot on the highway, lower at idle. I was wondering if my oil filter adapter was bringing my pressure down. The average input from you guys was that 40lbs was fine, not a problem. I was even going to try to change the oil pressure relief valve and spring again but I was talked out of that too. This was just last month. So I'm going with the "OK" and suggest you do too Paul. Maybe double check with another gauge but drive it and enjoy if it isn't giving you any other problems. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Leeks" To: Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:17 AM Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure > Chaps > > > > Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that the oil pressure seems > to > be a little low on the dial. > > > > When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is as follows: 20psi at > 3,000 > and 30psi at 4,000. > > > > So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I see somewhere about > 'bleeding' > the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the correct reading? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Paul Leeks > > Lancashire > > 100/6 BN4 > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Tue Sep 28 05:31:00 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 06:31:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: the old hot-rodder rule of thumb is 10lbs per 1000 rpm. cheers, On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 9:19 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > FWIW, You guys crack me up. My rebuild is running at about 40lbs hot on > the highway, lower > at idle. I was wondering if my oil filter adapter was bringing my > pressure down. The average input > from you guys was that 40lbs was fine, not a problem. I was even going to > try to change the oil pressure relief valve and spring again but I was > talked out of that too. > This was just last month. > > So I'm going with the "OK" and suggest you do too Paul. Maybe double check > with another gauge but > drive it and enjoy if it isn't giving you any other problems. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Leeks" > To: > Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:17 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure > > > Chaps >> >> >> >> Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that the oil pressure seems >> to >> be a little low on the dial. >> >> >> >> When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is as follows: 20psi at >> 3,000 >> and 30psi at 4,000. >> >> >> >> So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I see somewhere about >> 'bleeding' >> the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the correct reading? >> >> >> >> Many thanks >> >> >> >> Paul Leeks >> >> Lancashire >> >> 100/6 BN4 >> >> > _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 28 06:44:15 2010 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 05:44:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <000e01cb5f0a$dc4963e0$94dc2ba0$@com> I struggled with oil pressure that was on the low end for a few years even though all the usual culprits checked out fine. I finally traced the problem to the copper feeder line to the gauge. Replaced that line with one of correct bore and the problem was solved. Bruce Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Leeks" To: Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:17 AM Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure > Chaps > > > > Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that the oil pressure seems > to > be a little low on the dial. > > > > When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is as follows: 20psi at > 3,000 > and 30psi at 4,000. > > > > So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I see somewhere about > 'bleeding' > the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the correct reading? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Paul Leeks > > Lancashire > > 100/6 BN4 > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Tue Sep 28 07:09:50 2010 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 08:09:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <000e01cb5f0a$dc4963e0$94dc2ba0$@com> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <000e01cb5f0a$dc4963e0$94dc2ba0$@com> Message-ID: <0f2801cb5f0e$707e7e30$517b7a90$@net> To be honest, the diameter of the feed line should make no difference. There is no flow in the line, just the transfer of pressure. Herb Miller -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Healey Bruce Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 7:44 AM To: 'Paul Leeks'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil pressure I struggled with oil pressure that was on the low end for a few years even though all the usual culprits checked out fine. I finally traced the problem to the copper feeder line to the gauge. Replaced that line with one of correct bore and the problem was solved. Bruce Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Leeks" To: Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:17 AM Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure > Chaps > > > > Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that the oil pressure seems > to > be a little low on the dial. > > > > When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is as follows: 20psi at > 3,000 > and 30psi at 4,000. > > > > So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I see somewhere about > 'bleeding' > the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the correct reading? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Paul Leeks > > Lancashire > > 100/6 BN4 > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Sep 28 07:52:15 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 23:52:15 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <5B32612E-50DB-48C0-BFF8-65AB7D08CBF5@gmail.com> Hey Jerry, Agreed but Not on a rebuilt engine. That's 9 lbs at 900rpm on a stock rebuilt Healey. Mark, Ok. Confession time. My Bj8 was the most expensive engine rebuild I've ever been through. And by far the most hp per litre, and reliable. And by far the best to drive - for the past 12 years. But I've had my fair share of $200 engine rebuilds in sprites 100/4s and 3000s. I've done my fair share of the second hand pistons, the copper tube wrapped in wetn'dry bore crosshatching; the wetn'dry crank linishing, old cams, and the turn the rocker shaft upside down, hit it with an angle grinder, and carve out the appropriate holes. But if you play these games, you need to understand oil pressure springs, shimming them, and lapping the valve to the block. You have time, or money. Or both. If you have neither.... Forget it. Many years ago, I raced a Bugeye Sprite. 1220cc. Hillman Imp pistons, a later ribcase gearset in a smooth casing, and a 948 block. Impossible. But I had time. And no money. It was very quick - on a budget no one believed. My "best" engine was under $200. Way under. It had the best used bearings I could find.... I balanced stuff on digital scales from work. I read books. I used high tensile cap head bolts from army disposal. Now? I use proper stuff. I don't have the time I had when I was a student. Longwinded? Pull the oil pressure relief valve, look at the light gray sealing ring on the sealing face. Is is sealing? Shim the spring. Fit the best quality filter your pocket can afford. Did that help? Put penrite HPR 40 in your engine. Not good enough? Use HPR50 Oil pressure is about oil. And pressure. Check both. Sincerely. Chris Sent from my iPhone On 28/09/2010, at 9:31 PM, jerry wall wrote: > the old hot-rodder rule of thumb is 10lbs per 1000 rpm. > cheers, > > On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 9:19 PM, Mark LaPierre >wrote: > >> FWIW, You guys crack me up. My rebuild is running at about >> 40lbs hot on >> the highway, lower >> at idle. I was wondering if my oil filter adapter was bringing my >> pressure down. The average input >> from you guys was that 40lbs was fine, not a problem. I was even >> going to >> try to change the oil pressure relief valve and spring again but I >> was >> talked out of that too. From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Sep 28 08:46:14 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 15:46:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel hub/boss re-finishing Message-ID: Team. The boss of a standard AH wheel appears to be coated in a thick plastic material. Mine had developed cracks which in turn had trapped moisture leading to aluminium corrosion. I have unpeeled all the plastic, most of which had lost adhesion, and cleaned the boss ready for re-painting/coating. Any recommendations out there regarding what I should use? Thanks. -- _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 28 09:13:26 2010 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 08:13:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <0f2801cb5f0e$707e7e30$517b7a90$@net> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <000e01cb5f0a$dc4963e0$94dc2ba0$@com> <0f2801cb5f0e$707e7e30$517b7a90$@net> Message-ID: <000301cb5f1f$b3fe8d60$1bfba820$@com> That is what I thought as well. Besides being of a smaller bore, the line also did not have a coil in it. The only other possible explanation I can think of is that the right angle bend to go through the fire wall caused a pinch in the narrow bore. All I can say is that after replacing the line, normal oil pressure reading on the gauge. Bruce Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Herbert Miller [mailto:hgmiller3 at qwest.net] Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 6:10 AM To: 'Healey Bruce'; 'Paul Leeks'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Oil pressure To be honest, the diameter of the feed line should make no difference. There is no flow in the line, just the transfer of pressure. Herb Miller -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Healey Bruce Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 7:44 AM To: 'Paul Leeks'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil pressure I struggled with oil pressure that was on the low end for a few years even though all the usual culprits checked out fine. I finally traced the problem to the copper feeder line to the gauge. Replaced that line with one of correct bore and the problem was solved. Bruce Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Leeks" To: Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:17 AM Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure > Chaps > > > > Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that the oil pressure seems > to > be a little low on the dial. > > > > When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is as follows: 20psi at > 3,000 > and 30psi at 4,000. > > > > So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I see somewhere about > 'bleeding' > the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the correct reading? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Paul Leeks > > Lancashire > > 100/6 BN4 > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Sep 28 09:42:49 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 15:42:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?oil_pressure_relief_valve?= Message-ID: <20100928154249.26351.qmail@server278.com> i am having trouble understanding how increasing the spring strength in the oil pressure relief valve will increase oil pressure. this spring is calibrated to keep the oil pressure in the engine to below aprrox 60 psi. when the oil is cold and the pressure is above that, the spring is compressed and excess oil returns to the sump. once the oil heats up enough to allow the pressure to decrease below 60 psi the relief valve closes, never to enter the equation again. increasing the spring strength would only cause the relief valve to come off the seat at a higher pressure, i.e., 70 psi with cold oil. i cannot see where increasing the strength of the spring would do anything to increase the pressure of hot oil, say from 35 to 45 psi. where is the fallacy in my thinking? hjim From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Sep 28 10:08:46 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 18:08:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <20100928154249.26351.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100928154249.26351.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4CA2130E.3000409@chello.nl> The oil pump pressure rises with the engine revs. In a healthy engine hot oil can go way beyond the opening pressure of the pressure relief valve and if it was not limited by this valve it could in extreme cases damage your bearings. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Tue Sep 28 10:18:39 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:18:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <20100928154249.26351.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100928154249.26351.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: You are absolutely correct!! There is NO fallacy in your thinking. Michael Salter On Tue, Sep 28, 2010 at 11:42 AM, wrote: > i am having trouble understanding how increasing the spring strength in the > oil pressure relief valve will increase oil pressure. this spring is > calibrated to keep the oil pressure in the engine to below aprrox 60 psi. > when the oil is cold and the pressure is above that, the spring is > compressed and excess oil returns to the sump. once the oil heats up enough > to allow the pressure to decrease below 60 psi the relief valve closes, > never to enter the equation again. increasing the spring strength would > only cause the relief valve to come off the seat at a higher pressure, i.e., > 70 psi with cold oil. i cannot see where increasing the strength of the > spring would do anything to increase the pressure of hot oil, say from 35 to > 45 psi. where is the fallacy in my thinking? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Tue Sep 28 10:23:57 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:23:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: Hi Paul, Three things which can make a substantial difference to oil pressure and are often ovelooked during a rebuild are cam bearings, timing chain tensioned (it is oil fed), and rocker shaft. The rocker shaft alone can gobble up as much as 10 p.s.i. if it is badly worn. Michael Salter On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 7:17 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: > Chaps > > > > Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that the oil pressure seems to > be a little low on the dial. > > > > When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is as follows: 20psi at > 3,000 > and 30psi at 4,000. > > > > So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I see somewhere about > 'bleeding' > the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the correct reading? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Paul Leeks > > Lancashire > > 100/6 BN4 From shop at justbrits.com Tue Sep 28 12:16:26 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:16:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <000301cb5f1f$b3fe8d60$1bfba820$@com> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A1931A@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> <003801cb5eb3$a16cf360$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <000e01cb5f0a$dc4963e0$94dc2ba0$@com> <0f2801cb5f0e$707e7e30$517b7a90$@net> <000301cb5f1f$b3fe8d60$1bfba820$@com> Message-ID: <4CA230FA.6080205@justbrits.com> #1-Q - << *Besides being of a smaller bore,** *>> * * #1-A - I seriously doubt that had anything do do with it, Bruce.* *#2-Q - << *the line also did not have a coil in it.** *>>* * #2-A - And THAT has absolutely nothing to do with it; the 'coil' like the Water Temp. Cap. Tube 'should have a "shock/vibration relief" added [i.e., the coil].* *#3-Q - << *The only other possible explanation I can think of is that the right angle bend to go through the fire wall caused a pinch in the narrow bore.** *>>* * #3-A - Now THAT I would buy. I'd think something like 85% - 95% occluded by a 'kink'. #s are a WAG !!* * #4-Q - << *All I can say is that after replacing the line, normal oil pressure reading on the gauge.** *>> #4-A - That does make sense "IF" #3 is/was true !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From HealeyHundred at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 15:26:38 2010 From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 15:26:38 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Mk III Parts for sale. Message-ID: <6C7FA31A-BCD4-4EA8-9B9C-A6E3C55734E5@comcast.net> I was asked to pass this on to the list on behalf of an ex Healey owner. He states that they are worth $300.00 and he would take $150.00. Parts for sale "as a lot" that fit a 1964 BJ8 Phase 1 All new parts fit a 1964 BJ8, Phase I SU fuel pump, NOS, Moss # 377-160 Lower radiator hose, Moss #570-085 Upper radiator hose, Moss # 570-083 Bosch distributor cap Points, Rotor, Condenser 3/8 fan belt Tire inner tube 2 oil filters with gaskets Contact: Dan Kincaid Telephone: 303.534.5005 Direct: 303-565-3035 Fax: 303.534.1802 dkincaid at shamesmakovsky.com From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Sep 28 16:17:00 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 08:17:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Shelby and the Pan Americana Message-ID: <8C7F33E0F0D744D2910E2AF21AED4932@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day I recall reading the detail of the Carroll Shelby drive in the 1953 (or was it 1954?) Carrera Pan American in a 100S. That when he hit a mile post and rolled the car, breaking his arm. Would anyone have that or something like it at their fingertips? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 16:38:12 2010 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 15:38:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Shelby and the Pan Americana In-Reply-To: <8C7F33E0F0D744D2910E2AF21AED4932@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <939650.9816.qm@web36704.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 54, hit a rock, according to Caroll's account of the event: http://www.classicandperformancecar.com/features/columnists/222651/carroll_shelby_january_2008.html I guess there still must be some 100S parts in the Oaxaca area! cheers from sweltering Los Angeles, Bert --- On Wed, 9/29/10, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn > Subject: [Healeys] Shelby and the Pan Americana > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, September 29, 2010, 12:17 AM > G'day > > > > I recall reading the detail of the Carroll Shelby drive in > the 1953 (or was > it 1954?) Carrera Pan American in a 100S. That when he hit > a mile post and > rolled the car, breaking his arm. > > > > Would anyone have that or something like it at their > fingertips? > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Tue Sep 28 19:51:40 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 21:51:40 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Shelby and the Pan Americana Message-ID: <3cc42.2bc0b352.39d3f5ac@aol.com> I recall a story that the car wrecked in Mexico competed a few weeks later in Europe. Seems the taxes were already paid on the car wrecked in Mexico and the same registration and vin were assigned to a new car which leads to the question how many 100-S were really produced? Jim Werner In a message dated 9/28/2010 6:21:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au writes: G'day I recall reading the detail of the Carroll Shelby drive in the 1953 (or was it 1954?) Carrera Pan American in a 100S. That when he hit a mile post and rolled the car, breaking his arm. Would anyone have that or something like it at their fingertips? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv at aol.com From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Sep 29 01:07:29 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 29 Sep 2010 09:07:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?oil_pressure_relief_valve?= Message-ID: But what if the spring has mistakenly been designed to open the relief valve at 40psi (meaning it is too short, as mentioned by someone else previously)? I'd say the washer would cure the problem. What do you say? Eric You are absolutely correct!! There is NO fallacy in your thinking. Michael Salter On Tue, Sep 28, 2010 at 11:42 AM, wrote: > i am having trouble understanding how increasing the spring strength in the > oil pressure relief valve will increase oil pressure. this spring is > calibrated to keep the oil pressure in the engine to below aprrox 60 psi. > when the oil is cold and the pressure is above that, the spring is > compressed and excess oil returns to the sump. once the oil heats up enough > to allow the pressure to decrease below 60 psi the relief valve closes, > never to enter the equation again. increasing the spring strength would > only cause the relief valve to come off the seat at a higher pressure, i.e., > 70 psi with cold oil. i cannot see where increasing the strength of the > spring would do anything to increase the pressure of hot oil, say from 35 to > 45 psi. where is the fallacy in my thinking? hjim From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Sep 29 02:19:07 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 09:19:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel hub/boss re-finishing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Jean. The wheel is an adjustable from a 1957 BN4. You are correct that the black plasic coating extended over the three raised 'ears' that capture the root of the stainless wire banjo spokes. The coating was quite thick at around 1/16" and it peeled off in big chunks. The alloy boss is now completely stripped and cleaned and has a textured surface probably from the casting process. The simple answer would be an etch primer followed by paint but it would chip and scratch easily, and wouldn't cover/fill the surface imperfections. Thanks........... On 28 September 2010 19:03, Jean Caron wrote: > Alan: > Are you talking about a late(66 or 67) adjustable steering wheel? If so, now > that you have removed this material, not sure how thick it would be but it > also should cover the three spokes that hold the four wires at each of these > spokes, did you remove that as well? >> Team. >> The boss of a standard AH wheel appears to be coated in a thick >> plastic material. Mine had developed cracks which in turn had trapped >> moisture leading to aluminium corrosion. I have unpeeled all the >> plastic, most of which had lost adhesion, and cleaned the boss ready >> for re-painting/coating. >> >> Any recommendations out there regarding what I should use? _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 29 02:21:59 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 10:21:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CA2F727.6010105@chello.nl> If you put a washer under the spring, this will raise the max. oil pressure, providing the oil pump and bearings are in good nick. You can check this: If the oil pressure rises quickly with the engine revs and then stops at a more or less fixed pressure, you can raise the max. oil pressure by adding a washer under the spring. All measusrements taken with a hot engine of course. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Sep 29 03:06:32 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 19:06:32 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: And what if the spring is 50 years old, and has lost it's tension, and opens at 20 lbs?? And what if the valve isn't seating and sealing in the block?? Sent from my iPhone On 29/09/2010, at 5:07 PM, "lists" wrote: > But what if the spring has mistakenly been designed to open the > relief valve at 40psi (meaning it is too short, as mentioned by > someone else previously)? I'd say the washer would cure the problem. > What do you say? > > Eric > > You are absolutely correct!! > There is NO fallacy in your thinking. > > Michael Salter > > On Tue, Sep 28, 2010 at 11:42 AM, wrote: > >> i am having trouble understanding how increasing the spring >> strength in the >> oil pressure relief valve will increase oil pressure. this spring is >> calibrated to keep the oil pressure in the engine to below aprrox >> 60 psi. >> when the oil is cold and the pressure is above that, the spring is >> compressed and excess oil returns to the sump. once the oil heats >> up enough >> to allow the pressure to decrease below 60 psi the relief valve >> closes, >> never to enter the equation again. increasing the spring strength >> would >> only cause the relief valve to come off the seat at a higher >> pressure, i.e., >> 70 psi with cold oil. i cannot see where increasing the strength >> of the >> spring would do anything to increase the pressure of hot oil, say >> from 35 to >> 45 psi. where is the fallacy in my thinking? hjim From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Sep 29 03:18:31 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 17:18:31 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Agreed. It's common for the outside of the spring to wear down against the wall of the spring's tube, lowering spring rate and reducing oil pressure. On 9/29/10, Chris Dimmock wrote: > And what if the spring is 50 years old, and has lost it's tension, and > opens at 20 lbs?? And what if the valve isn't seating and sealing in > the block?? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 29/09/2010, at 5:07 PM, "lists" wrote: > >> But what if the spring has mistakenly been designed to open the >> relief valve at 40psi (meaning it is too short, as mentioned by >> someone else previously)? I'd say the washer would cure the problem. >> What do you say? >> >> Eric >> >> You are absolutely correct!! >> There is NO fallacy in your thinking. >> >> Michael Salter >> >> On Tue, Sep 28, 2010 at 11:42 AM, wrote: >> >>> i am having trouble understanding how increasing the spring >>> strength in the >>> oil pressure relief valve will increase oil pressure. this spring is >>> calibrated to keep the oil pressure in the engine to below aprrox >>> 60 psi. >>> when the oil is cold and the pressure is above that, the spring is >>> compressed and excess oil returns to the sump. once the oil heats >>> up enough >>> to allow the pressure to decrease below 60 psi the relief valve >>> closes, >>> never to enter the equation again. increasing the spring strength >>> would >>> only cause the relief valve to come off the seat at a higher >>> pressure, i.e., >>> 70 psi with cold oil. i cannot see where increasing the strength >>> of the >>> spring would do anything to increase the pressure of hot oil, say >>> from 35 to >>> 45 psi. where is the fallacy in my thinking? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Sep 29 08:03:04 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 14:03:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: That's a lot of "what ifs". :) I have a bad memory, so correct me if I'm wrong. Here's the way I remember the issue:- he had more oil pressure before he rebuilt his engine- he replaced the oil pressure relief valve ( or just the spring? ) as part of the rebuild- His original question was regarding whether air in the line to the gauge could be affecting things. "What if" he just put the old spring back in so that he's comparing apples to apples? ( while perhaps comparing the 2 springs for length while they're both in his hand. I'm not sure how you would compare the strength of the springs. Someone knows. ) I believe the response that he got to the "air in the line" question was that "pressure was pressure", but I really don't think that it would hurt to try that. We tend not to like air in our brake lines. So what do you have to lose besides time? I'm really an ignoramus on these issues, but I was just thinking ... I know, it doesn't become me! ;) ---------------- >> And what if >>> But what if From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 29 08:23:40 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 07:23:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: <4CA34BEC.7090201@comcast.net> If you run the typically thicker oil we run in our Healeys--20W-50, say--and start the engine on a cool morning, the oil pressure you see at fast idle should be the setpoint (around 60psi) for the relief valve, no? It seems to me, at any pressure below the relief valve setpoint the spring would make no difference, but the seal of the valve against the bypass passage would, as it could be just another pressure 'leak.' bs On 9/29/2010 7:03 AM, Robert Duquette wrote: > That's a lot of "what ifs". :) > I have a bad memory, so correct me if I'm wrong. Here's the way I remember > the issue:- he had more oil pressure before he rebuilt his engine- he replaced > the oil pressure relief valve ( or just the spring? ) as part of the > rebuild- His original question was regarding whether air in the line to > the gauge could be affecting things. > "What if" he just put the old spring back in so that he's comparing apples to > apples? > ( while perhaps comparing the 2 springs for length while they're both in his > hand. I'm not sure how you would compare the strength of the springs. Someone > knows. ) > > I believe the response that he got to the "air in the line" question was that > "pressure was pressure", but I really don't think that it would hurt to try > that. We tend not to like air in our brake lines. So what do you have to > lose besides time? > I'm really an ignoramus on these issues, but I was just thinking ... I know, > it doesn't become me! ;) > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 29 08:31:04 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 16:31:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <4CA34BEC.7090201@comcast.net> References: , , <4CA34BEC.7090201@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4CA34DA8.9080908@chello.nl> Correct. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From Paull at glasgows.co.uk Wed Sep 29 08:52:09 2010 From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 15:52:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19340@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Robert Yes, I had more oil pressure before the rebuild but I didn't touch (let alone change) the oil pressure relief value/spring. Now the pressure is low, so I suppose, if it is the OPRV, then it must be due to it becoming blocked or stuck rather than wear? And, yes, the answer was air would make no difference to the pressure reading, but I wouldn't know whether (or how) you could 'bleed' the line to gauge? Cheers Paul Message: 11 Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 14:03:04 +0000 From: Robert Duquette Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve To: Healeys Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" That's a lot of "what ifs". :) I have a bad memory, so correct me if I'm wrong. Here's the way I remember the issue:- he had more oil pressure before he rebuilt his engine- he replaced the oil pressure relief valve ( or just the spring? ) as part of the rebuild- His original question was regarding whether air in the line to the gauge could be affecting things. "What if" he just put the old spring back in so that he's comparing apples to apples? ( while perhaps comparing the 2 springs for length while they're both in his hand. I'm not sure how you would compare the strength of the springs. Someone knows. ) I believe the response that he got to the "air in the line" question was that "pressure was pressure", but I really don't think that it would hurt to try that. We tend not to like air in our brake lines. So what do you have to lose besides time? I'm really an ignoramus on these issues, but I was just thinking ... I know, it doesn't become me! ;) ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 29 09:04:37 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 10:04:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: <4CA35585.4000306@justbrits.com> << I have a bad memory, so correct me if I'm wrong. >> YEP, RD !! Sometimes is really DOES help [one such as you, apparently] to check the Archives !!! LOL !! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 29 09:17:02 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 17:17:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19340@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19340@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: <4CA3586E.1070905@chello.nl> Paul, Did you rebuild the engine exactly as you took it apart? What I mean is this: You did not swap around bearing shells or piston rods or its caps did you? Nr 1 rod is still nr 1 and nr 6 is still nr 6? If you did not put back the parts in the same spot and in the same orientation as they were before, you can be in dire trouble. Did you use assembly lube when you put the engine together? Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Sep 29 09:20:14 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 15:20:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <4CA35585.4000306@justbrits.com> References: , , , , , , <4CA35585.4000306@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Hey! Come on now! I didn't ask you to correct me if I was "right"!!! :) I never have luck with the archives. I could spend a day there and not find what I'm looking for. For example, I tried to find the email that described how to bleed the oil line near the gauge ( trying to be helpful ) and failed As a test, give it a try ED, and let us know when you find it. I spent about 10 minutes and then gave up. Apparently, remembering key words is a big help. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg ---------------------------------------- > Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 10:04:37 -0500 > > << I have a bad memory, so correct me if I'm > wrong.>> > > YEP, RD !! > > Sometimes is really DOES help [one such as you, > apparently] to > check the Archives !!! LOL !! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Sep 29 09:24:14 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 11:24:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: <006901cb5fea$5fcbd150$1f6373f0$@rr.com> As far as air in the oil pressure line is concerned, some have the opinion that the air needs to be bled out of the line for the gauge to display the correct pressure. However, my experience was different. Shortly after I replaced the flexible oil line on my BJ8, there was a discussion on the list about the need to bleed the line. Realizing I had not done that and was seeing less pressure than I would expect after a rebuild, I went out and bled it by starting the engine, then cracking the nut and letting the oil drip for several minutes into a pan before re-tightening the nut. When I looked at the gauge, the needle was vibrating so rapidly that I thought it would break. Then I disconnected the hard line to the gauge for a minute, then reconnected it. The gauge needle was as steady as before I bled the line. My conclusion is that air in the line is necessary to dampen the pressure pulses from the oil pump and it is not only not necessary but counterproductive to bleed it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Duquette That's a lot of "what ifs". :) I have a bad memory, so correct me if I'm wrong. Here's the way I remember the issue:- he had more oil pressure before he rebuilt his engine- he replaced the oil pressure relief valve ( or just the spring? ) as part of the rebuild- His original question was regarding whether air in the line to the gauge could be affecting things. "What if" he just put the old spring back in so that he's comparing apples to apples? ( while perhaps comparing the 2 springs for length while they're both in his hand. I'm not sure how you would compare the strength of the springs. Someone knows. ) I believe the response that he got to the "air in the line" question was that "pressure was pressure", but I really don't think that it would hurt to try that. We tend not to like air in our brake lines. So what do you have to lose besides time? From Paull at glasgows.co.uk Wed Sep 29 09:27:07 2010 From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 16:27:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19344@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Hi Kees Yes, it was more of a partial (and amateur!) rebuild. I had blown a piston, so I removed the head, cleaned up, replaced the pistons and exhaust valves and put it all back together (with the original bearings). I did, however, mark up and photographed absolutely everything to ensure it all got replaced in exactly the same place and right way round. I didn't use any assembly lube but I did drown everything in engine oil. Not one for the purist I suspect :-) Best wishes Paul -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: 29 September 2010 16:17 To: Paul Leeks Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; robertduquette at sympatico.ca Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve Paul, Did you rebuild the engine exactly as you took it apart? What I mean is this: You did not swap around bearing shells or piston rods or its caps did you? Nr 1 rod is still nr 1 and nr 6 is still nr 6? If you did not put back the parts in the same spot and in the same orientation as they were before, you can be in dire trouble. Did you use assembly lube when you put the engine together? Kees Oudesluijs ________________________________________________________________________ This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit: http://www.star.net.uk ________________________________________________________________________ From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 29 09:37:31 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 08:37:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19344@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06A19344@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk> Message-ID: <4CA35D3B.8050309@comcast.net> I don't believe you should use assembly lube on pistons anyway. It's too slick and too good a lubricant, and you risk the rings not seating properly. That's why it's also not a bad idea to use a 'break-in' oil for the first couple hours of running. 'Good break-in oil' can be the cheapest 20W you can find. Running a little rich is not a bad idea, either. bs On 9/29/2010 8:27 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: > Hi Kees > > Yes, it was more of a partial (and amateur!) rebuild. I had blown a piston, > so I removed the head, cleaned up, replaced the pistons and exhaust valves > and put it all back together (with the original bearings). I did, however, > mark up and photographed absolutely everything to ensure it all got replaced > in exactly the same place and right way round. I didn't use any assembly > lube but I did drown everything in engine oil. Not one for the purist I > suspect :-) > > Best wishes > > Paul > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bighealey3k at aim.com Wed Sep 29 10:56:57 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 12:56:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <006901cb5fea$5fcbd150$1f6373f0$@rr.com> References: , , <006901cb5fea$5fcbd150$1f6373f0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD2E0E75B585EB-106C-1D93@webmail-m098.sysops.aol.com> I agree with Steve, the column of air in the oil pressure line needs to be there to dampen out the oil pump pulses. I addressed this issue back on Aug 6th in a reply to the list and David Masucci who had an "oscillating" oil pressure gauge and he thought air in the line caused it. I related to him and the list how my '67 BJ8 that I've owned since new and know that the oil line had never been disconnected from the engine or oil pressure gauge since new and I was driving in traffic and all of a sudden my oil pressure gauge started to vibrate and the needle oscillated very rapidly and I noticed a drop of oil on my left pant leg. I looked at the back of the gauge and saw a drop of oil hanging on the nut that attached the direct reading oil line to the back of the gauge. I tightened the nut and it did not help. I guessed there must have been a column of air in the line that was lost due to the nut at the back of the gauge not being tight enough. I took the line loose at the engine and gauge and blew out the line and reconnected both ends and the problem cleared up and has never reoccurred since and that was back in '69 or '70. There is a small pin hole in the fitting to the back of the oil pressure gauge that dampens the pressure entering the gauge and I'm guessing the hole can't dampen the oil pump pulses with a column of oil directly at the back of the gauge. The column of air does the dampening and smoothes out the pulses. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: BJ8 Healeys To: 'Healeys' Sent: Wed, Sep 29, 2010 11:24 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve As far as air in the oil pressure line is concerned, some have the opinion hat the air needs to be bled out of the line for the gauge to display the orrect pressure. However, my experience was different. Shortly after I replaced the flexible oil line on my BJ8, there was a iscussion on the list about the need to bleed the line. Realizing I had ot done that and was seeing less pressure than I would expect after a ebuild, I went out and bled it by starting the engine, then cracking the ut and letting the oil drip for several minutes into a pan before e-tightening the nut. When I looked at the gauge, the needle was vibrating o rapidly that I thought it would break. Then I disconnected the hard line o the gauge for a minute, then reconnected it. The gauge needle was as teady as before I bled the line. y conclusion is that air in the line is necessary to dampen the pressure ulses from the oil pump and it is not only not necessary but ounterproductive to bleed it. Steve Byers BJ8L/36666 J8 Registry avelock, NC From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Sep 29 11:42:35 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 13:42:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Search Message-ID: <014601cb5ffd$b427c160$1c774420$@verizon.net> Anyone on the list with a red over silver Healey with the license California plate BUN DRGN. Spotted by a friend of mine in Los Gatos John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From rnbmail at yahoo.com Wed Sep 29 11:54:02 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 10:54:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure Message-ID: <668892.79879.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > From: Robert Blair > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil pressure > To: "'Healey Bruce'" , "'Paul Leeks'" , healeys at autox.team.net, "Herbert Miller" > Date: Wednesday, September 29, 2010, 10:35 AM > Paul, > > You are running low pressure .... since you rebuilt the > motor it is unlikely to be the usual suspects of bearings, > pump, or worn rocker shaft. But you should worry about > it anyway. > > Agree with Herb - pressure is constant within the oil line > whatever the diameter. Basic physics. Larger or > smaller line diameter makes no difference. > > Start with the pressure relief spring per Alan - easy to > do. > > Could be faulty guage - cross check with a prof external > guage directly at the block as someone had suggested. > > On numbers - with about 2K on rebuild, I get [hot] 55 at > 4000 rpm, 45 at 2500 rpm, and 20 at idle 700rpm. Cold > at 1500 rpm is 60ish. > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com > > > > > > --- On Tue, 9/28/10, Herbert Miller > wrote: > > > From: Herbert Miller > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil pressure > > To: "'Healey Bruce'" , > "'Paul Leeks'" , > healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Tuesday, September 28, 2010, 6:09 AM > > To be honest, the diameter of the > > feed line should make no difference. There > > is no flow in the line, just the transfer of > pressure. > > > > Herb Miller > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of Healey Bruce > > Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 7:44 AM > > To: 'Paul Leeks'; healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil pressure > > > > I struggled with oil pressure that was on the low end > for a > > few years even > > though all the usual culprits checked out fine. I > > finally traced the > > problem to the copper feeder line to the gauge. > Replaced > > that line with one > > of correct bore and the problem was solved. > > > > Bruce > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Paul Leeks" > > To: > > Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:17 AM > > Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure > > > > > > > Chaps > > > > > > > > > > > > Since rebuilding my engine last year I think that > the > > oil pressure seems > > > to > > > be a little low on the dial. > > > > > > > > > > > > When the engine is hot, the pressure indicated is > as > > follows: 20psi at > > > 3,000 > > > and 30psi at 4,000. > > > > > > > > > > > > So, I was wondering, is this too low and did I > see > > somewhere about > > > 'bleeding' > > > the oil gauge to make sure you are getting the > correct > > reading? > > > > > > > > > > > > Many thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > Paul Leeks > > > > > > Lancashire > > > > > > 100/6 BN4 From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Sep 29 12:03:10 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 11:03:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve -- Searching Archives In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <812450.54505.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Google is a better search engine and it's all there. Try this. site:http://www.team.net/archive bleed gauge "site:http://www.team.net/archive" tells Google to limit it's search to a site, in this case http://www.team.net/archive. Greg --- On Wed, 9/29/10, Robert Duquette wrote: > From: Robert Duquette > Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve > To: "Healeys" > Date: Wednesday, September 29, 2010, 11:20 AM > Hey! Come on now! I > didn't ask you to correct me if I was "right"!!! :) > I never have luck with the archives. I could spend a > day there and not find > what I'm looking for. > For example, I tried to find the email that described how > to bleed the oil > line near the gauge ( trying to be helpful ) and failed > > As a test, give it a try ED, and let us know when you find > it. I spent about > 10 minutes and then gave up. Apparently, remembering > key words is a big > help. > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > > ---------------------------------------- > > Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 10:04:37 -0500 > > > > << I have a bad memory, so correct me if I'm > > wrong.>> > > > > YEP, RD !! > > > > Sometimes is really DOES help [one such as you, > > apparently] to > > check the Archives !!! LOL !! > > > > Ed > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From rnbmail at yahoo.com Wed Sep 29 12:15:48 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 11:15:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve - but if old ... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <954683.99658.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Paul, Jim, Michael, Yes - true for a good 60 lb spring/seating condition. BUT, if the spring is weak [old, short, constricted] and is relieving/compressing at say 30 lbs, then the internal pressure will not overcome the relief valve and the guage and bearings will not see pressure in excess of 30 lbs - a weak spring acts like a 'big leak' in the system that the pump cannot overcome. Just like a worn bearing. If you 'plug' the leak [ie get the spring to stay closed until 60 lbs - ie have a good spring/seating] then the system will see internal pressure up to 60 lbs cold as delivered by the pump. When hot, 60lbs is not achieved because the oil viscosity decreases with temperature [reducing flow resistance and therefore pressure, and 60lbs is not achievable by the pump against the lower resistance of the complete system - the good spring remains closed as pressure within the system is then below 60 lbs. When hot, pressure is limited by the condition of the bearings, rocker etc to 'resist' oil flow from the pump. Lower flow rate results in higher pressure. Higher flow rate results in lower pressure. So check your springs ...... Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com --- On Tue, 9/28/10, Michael Salter wrote: > From: Michael Salter > Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve > To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Date: Tuesday, September 28, 2010, 9:18 AM > You are absolutely correct!! > There is NO fallacy in your thinking. > > Michael Salter > > On Tue, Sep 28, 2010 at 11:42 AM, > wrote: > > > i am having trouble understanding how increasing the > spring strength in the > > oil pressure relief valve will increase oil > pressure. this spring is > > calibrated to keep the oil pressure in the engine to > below aprrox 60 psi. > > when the oil is cold and the pressure is above > that, the spring is > > compressed and excess oil returns to the sump. > once the oil heats up enough > > to allow the pressure to decrease below 60 psi the > relief valve closes, > > never to enter the equation again. increasing > the spring strength would > > only cause the relief valve to come off the seat at a > higher pressure, i.e., > > 70 psi with cold oil. i cannot see where > increasing the strength of the > > spring would do anything to increase the pressure of > hot oil, say from 35 to > > 45 psi. where is the fallacy in my > thinking? hjim From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Sep 29 12:23:46 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 18:23:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve -- Searching Archives In-Reply-To: <812450.54505.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: , <812450.54505.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks! I added "Healeys" and "oil" The result is a touch more than 3000 characters, ;) but you can then use your browser to find key words. Now I have to remember that. :) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg ---------------------------------------- > Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 11:03:10 -0700 > From: gmandas at yahoo.com > > > Google is a better search engine and it's all there. > > Try this. > > site:http://www.team.net/archive bleed gauge > > > "site:http://www.team.net/archive" tells Google to limit it's search to a site, in this case http://www.team.net/archive. > > Greg > > > > > --- On Wed, 9/29/10, Robert Duquette wrote: > >> From: Robert Duquette >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve >> To: "Healeys" >> Date: Wednesday, September 29, 2010, 11:20 AM >> Hey! Come on now! I >> didn't ask you to correct me if I was "right"!!! :) >> I never have luck with the archives. I could spend a >> day there and not find >> what I'm looking for. >> For example, I tried to find the email that described how >> to bleed the oil >> line near the gauge ( trying to be helpful ) and failed >> >> As a test, give it a try ED, and let us know when you find >> it. I spent about >> 10 minutes and then gave up. Apparently, remembering >> key words is a big >> help. >> >> Robert Duquette >> Ottawa ON Canada >> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) >> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) >> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) >> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg >> >> >> ---------------------------------------- >>> Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 10:04:37 -0500 >>> >>> << I have a bad memory, so correct me if I'm >>> wrong.>> >>> >>> YEP, RD !! >>> >>> Sometimes is really DOES help [one such as you, >>> apparently] to >>> check the Archives !!! LOL !! >>> >>> Ed >>> _______________________________________________ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Sep 29 12:55:05 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 14:55:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Search In-Reply-To: <014601cb5ffd$b427c160$1c774420$@verizon.net> References: <014601cb5ffd$b427c160$1c774420$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <008501cb6007$d494f300$7dbed900$@rr.com> I have the car in the BJ8 registry, and as far as I know the owner is not on the list. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 1:43 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Search Anyone on the list with a red over silver Healey with the license California plate BUN DRGN. Spotted by a friend of mine in Los Gatos John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From jstmorris at yahoo.com Wed Sep 29 13:07:27 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 12:07:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] eBay-1968 Le Mans GT Healey Body Tub Original Drawing Message-ID: <860365.14980.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Good Day; You may find this auction to be of interest. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives eBay Ends: Oct 04, 2010 Item: 220676325073 Seller: vmb2008 ( Feedback Score Of 235 ) 1968 Le Mans GT Healey Body Tub Original Cut Away Drawing Produced for: The Autocar Magazine, Date on drawing 26 Sept 1968 Format: Pen and ink + wash on thick art board Size Approx: 16.25 x 12 inch http://cgi.ebay.com/1968-Le-Mans-Healey-GT-Cutaway-Artwork-Drawing-Original-/ 220676325073?pt=UK_Sports_Memorabilia_ET&hash=item3361557ed1 http://tinyurl.com/38e9ae7 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Sep 29 16:23:41 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 17:23:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] eBay-1968 Le Mans GT Healey Body Tub Original Drawing In-Reply-To: <860365.14980.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <860365.14980.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4CA3BC6D.4060907@justbrits.com> << Good Day; You may find this auction to be of interest. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada >> And be SURE to check this chap's "Other Auctions" as he does have some interesting items - Morris, Bentley, Woseley, MGs, etc., etc. !!! Link = http://tinyurl.com/38e9ae7 THANKS, Scott !!!! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com with a LOT of Healey Memorabilia For Sale including a picture of BN-3& DMH !! From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 29 18:42:17 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 20:42:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve References: , , <006901cb5fea$5fcbd150$1f6373f0$@rr.com> <8CD2E0E75B585EB-106C-1D93@webmail-m098.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001a01cb6038$5615dea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> And what kind of oil pressure might you be running in your gem. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve >I agree with Steve, the column of air in the oil pressure line needs to be > there to dampen out the oil pump pulses. I addressed this issue back on > Aug > 6th in a reply to the list and David Masucci who had an "oscillating" oil > pressure gauge and he thought air in the line caused it. I related to him > and > the list how my '67 BJ8 that I've owned since new and know that the oil > line > had never been disconnected from the engine or oil pressure gauge since > new > and I was driving in traffic and all of a sudden my oil pressure gauge > started > to vibrate and the needle oscillated very rapidly and I noticed a drop of > oil > on my left pant leg. I looked at the back of the gauge and saw a drop of > oil > hanging on the nut that attached the direct reading oil line to the back > of > the gauge. I tightened the nut and it did not help. I guessed there must > have been a column of air in the line that was lost due to the nut at the > back > of the gauge not being tight enough. I took the line loose at the engine > and > gauge and blew out the line and reconnected both ends and the problem > cleared > up and has never reoccurred since and that was back in '69 or '70. There > is a > small pin hole in the fitting to the back of the oil pressure gauge that > dampens the pressure entering the gauge and I'm guessing the hole can't > dampen > the oil pump pulses with a column of oil directly at the back of the > gauge. > The column of air does the dampening and smoothes out the pulses. > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From gmandas at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 09:09:37 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 08:09:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] HellOOoo In-Reply-To: <860365.14980.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <654046.2425.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Anybody Home? From bj7ah at acanac.net Thu Sep 30 09:20:32 2010 From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 11:20:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] HellOOoo In-Reply-To: <654046.2425.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <654046.2425.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42745A37595F461F92EB7141F20C1015@HPLT> ?Yes I Am Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Greg Mandas" Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 11:09 AM To: "Austin Healey" Subject: [Healeys] HellOOoo > Anybody Home? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah at acanac.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 30 09:23:11 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 08:23:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] HellOOoo In-Reply-To: <654046.2425.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <654046.2425.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1FBB46B5-CD77-45FD-885D-9185EBBB1014@sbcglobal.net> Nope not here On Sep 30, 2010, at 8:09 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > Anybody Home? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healey100m at gmail.com Thu Sep 30 09:37:38 2010 From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 10:37:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] HellOOoo In-Reply-To: <654046.2425.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <654046.2425.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Nope. Driving across the country in the BJ8. :-) Texas folks - any car/Healey events this weekend in the Austin/Gruene area? Randy Hicks On Sep 30, 2010, at 10:09 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > Anybody Home? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 10:35:40 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:35:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] HellOOoo In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <408308.92071.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> List, Thank y'all for responding to my little sever check. I was getting fidgety. Healey List Withdrawal, you know. For all of you at home, Hope you are warm and dry. It's raining buckets here in CT. For all of you not at home, What are you doing answering Healey email at work, Hmmmmmmm? And Randy, I wish I were there. What a lovely thing to be doing.... Greg Off-Off Subject: Did you hear the NPR report where the weather guy said if you were to weigh a hurricane it would weight the equivalent of 20 Billion cats and 20 Billion Dogs? Scheez! Happy Healey-ing! --- On Thu, 9/30/10, Randy Hicks wrote: > From: Randy Hicks > Subject: Re: [Healeys] HellOOoo > To: "Greg Mandas" > Cc: "Austin Healey" > Date: Thursday, September 30, 2010, 11:37 AM > Nope. Driving across the country in > the BJ8. :-) > > Texas folks - any car/Healey events this weekend in the > Austin/Gruene area? > > Randy Hicks > > > > On Sep 30, 2010, at 10:09 AM, Greg Mandas > wrote: > > > Anybody Home? > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Sep 30 11:33:27 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:33:27 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Bun Draggin' Message-ID: <2f626.374b46eb.39d623e7@aol.com> In a message dated 9/30/10 8:39:01 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Subject: [Healeys] Search > > Anyone on the list with a red over silver Healey with the license > California > plate BUN DRGN. Spotted by a friend of mine in Los Gatos > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > Belongs to Nick Klein, a stalwart of the Golden Gate Section AHCUSA for many years. Gary From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu Sep 30 11:39:38 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:39:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HellOOoo In-Reply-To: References: <408308.92071.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It's not surprising we (the US) haven't adopted the metric system We're still measuring things in cats and dogs and football fields! > > Off-Off Subject: Did you hear the NPR report where the weather guy said if > you were to weigh a hurricane it would weight the equivalent of 20 Billion > cats and 20 Billion Dogs? Scheez! From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Thu Sep 30 12:36:05 2010 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (Gilbert Gauthier) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 14:36:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] HellOOoo In-Reply-To: References: <654046.2425.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <13B1D9E7-34AF-4D35-AF2E-9DB824E7A2B7@cgocable.ca> Randy, Hope your not getting to wet because here it is the deluge , have a safe trip Cheers Gilbert Le 10-09-30 ` 11:37, Randy Hicks a icrit : > Nope. Driving across the country in the BJ8. :-) > > Texas folks - any car/Healey events this weekend in the Austin/ > Gruene area? > > Randy Hicks > > > > On Sep 30, 2010, at 10:09 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > >> Anybody Home? >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca From rnbmail at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 14:03:34 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:03:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <001a01cb6038$5615dea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Fluids do not compress - air compresses. That is why there cannot be air in break lines - the pressure must be finite and proportional to the foot pressure applied. For the same reason there cannot be air in oil pressure lines. Constant guage pressure depends only on the fluid pressure in the oil line. David Nock - You run a big Healey shop - when you replace and oil guage - do you ensure there is a certain amount of air in the guage oil line to the guage to dampen the needle - I dont think so ..... there is no air in my oil line - and no oscillating needle. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com --- On Wed, 9/29/10, Mark LaPierre wrote: > From: Mark LaPierre > Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve > To: sbyers at ec.rr.com, healeys at autox.team.net, bighealey3k at aim.com > Date: Wednesday, September 29, 2010, 5:42 PM > And what kind of oil pressure might > you be running in your gem. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: ; > > Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:56 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve > > > > I agree with Steve, the column of air in the oil > pressure line needs to be > > there to dampen out the oil pump pulses. I > addressed this issue back on Aug > > 6th in a reply to the list and David Masucci who had > an "oscillating" oil > > pressure gauge and he thought air in the line caused > it. I related to him and > > the list how my '67 BJ8 that I've owned since new and > know that the oil line > > had never been disconnected from the engine or oil > pressure gauge since new > > and I was driving in traffic and all of a sudden my > oil pressure gauge started > > to vibrate and the needle oscillated very rapidly and > I noticed a drop of oil > > on my left pant leg. I looked at the back of the > gauge and saw a drop of oil > > hanging on the nut that attached the direct reading > oil line to the back of > > the gauge. I tightened the nut and it did not > help. I guessed there must > > have been a column of air in the line that was lost > due to the nut at the back > > of the gauge not being tight enough. I took the > line loose at the engine and > > gauge and blew out the line and reconnected both ends > and the problem cleared > > up and has never reoccurred since and that was back in > '69 or '70. There is a > > small pin hole in the fitting to the back of the oil > pressure gauge that > > dampens the pressure entering the gauge and I'm > guessing the hole can't dampen > > the oil pump pulses with a column of oil directly at > the back of the gauge. > > The column of air does the dampening and smoothes out > the pulses. > > > > Larry > > '67 BJ8 From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 14:19:45 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:19:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Trunk Seal In-Reply-To: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <411062.27702.qm@web54103.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The BN2 trunk seal has a specific shape. On one side it has a shallow figure and on the other side it looks like a piramid. How should I glue the seal ?? Thanks, Jose Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Sep 30 14:31:01 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:31:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 69 Sprite at Berret Jackson Message-ID: currently the cleanest Box Sprite I have ever seen on speed right now sold for $16000.00 ! plus fees.... wow -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Sep 30 14:53:42 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:53:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 69 Sprite at Berret Jackson In-Reply-To: <8CD2EF85CF9061A-1C9C-933@webmail-d022.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2EF85CF9061A-1C9C-933@webmail-d022.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: trying to figure that out as I type this. Typically the cable will list the date of the event.... says its from Palm beach FL..... no date..... will update when I figure it out On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 1:51 PM, wrote: > Ira > I didn't think BJ had any auctions running this week. I think Las Vegas > was last week. Was this a Speed Channel rerun? > Aloha > Perry > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: I Erbs > To: healey help > Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 10:31 am > Subject: [Healeys] 69 Sprite at Berret Jackson > > currently the cleanest Box Sprite I have ever seen on speed right now sold > for $16000.00 ! plus fees.... > wow > -- > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS > IT CONSULTANTS > Portland, OR > > > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Sep 30 14:56:42 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:56:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Trunk Seal In-Reply-To: <411062.27702.qm@web54103.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <411062.27702.qm@web54103.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8D9D7D534A734F2DA83FA5F6F94D2FBE@LIFEBOOK> The shallower side which has a more squared up edge goes to the outside perimeter of the lid, with the wider angle toward the inside. When gluing into place, make sure there is no pull exerted on the corner curves or it will pull away later on. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Josi Vicente Vargas" Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 4:19 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Trunk Seal > The BN2 trunk seal has a specific shape. On one side it has a shallow > figure > and > on the other side it looks like a piramid. How should I glue the seal ?? > Thanks, > Jose > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 > 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Sep 30 14:57:09 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:57:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 69 Sprite at Berret Jackson sorry 2006 re-broadcast Message-ID: sorry show is a re-broadcast of a 2006 event..... On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 1:51 PM, wrote: > Ira > I didn't think BJ had any auctions running this week. I think Las Vegas > was last week. Was this a Speed Channel rerun? > Aloha > Perry > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: I Erbs > To: healey help > Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 10:31 am > Subject: [Healeys] 69 Sprite at Berret Jackson > > currently the cleanest Box Sprite I have ever seen on speed right now sold > for $16000.00 ! plus fees.... > wow > -- > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS > IT CONSULTANTS > Portland, OR > > > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Sep 30 14:59:05 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 22:59:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4CA4FA19.80507@chello.nl> I disagree. In a braking system the transmission of force/pressure has to be instant and precise so no volume of air to compress can be allowed as that would take to much travel from the brake pedal. The brake force in relation to the force applied to the pedal would not change, although you will never reach a decent force as the brake pedal cannot travel far enough. In a pressure gauge it does not matter how much oil flows in the line, there is plenty of it so with or without the air it will always indicate the same pressure: the pressure the oil pump is delivering or rather the opening pressure of the relief valve. However I can imagine that without air in the line the gauge may vibrate depending on the design of the oil pump. Kees Oudesluijs. NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From warthodson at aol.com Thu Sep 30 15:45:00 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:45:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <4CA4FA19.80507@chello.nl> References: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4CA4FA19.80507@chello.nl> Message-ID: <8CD2EFFDE30825D-1498-7781@Webmail-m112.sysops.aol.com> I agree. And as I recall 6 cylinder Healeys had two different oil pump designs. Perhaps one design produces bigger pulsations. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys To: Robert Blair Cc: Mark at autox.team.net; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 3:59 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve I disagree. In a braking system the transmission of force/pressure has o be instant and precise so no volume of air to compress can be allowed s that would take to much travel from the brake pedal. The brake force n relation to the force applied to the pedal would not change, although ou will never reach a decent force as the brake pedal cannot travel far nough. In a pressure gauge it does not matter how much oil flows in the ine, there is plenty of it so with or without the air it will always ndicate the same pressure: the pressure the oil pump is delivering or ather the opening pressure of the relief valve. owever I can imagine that without air in the line the gauge may vibrate epending on the design of the oil pump. ees Oudesluijs. L From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Sep 30 16:25:57 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 15:25:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 69 Sprite at Berret Jackson sorry 2006 re-broadcast In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You had me thinking senior moment there. I was at the one in Las Vegas last week and there were no Sprites and I didn't think the Big Healeys were all that perfect (although VERY nice) Rich Kahn > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:57:09 -0700 > To: healeyguy at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 69 Sprite at Berret Jackson sorry 2006 re-broadcast > > sorry show is a re-broadcast of a 2006 event..... > > On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 1:51 PM, wrote: > > > Ira > > I didn't think BJ had any auctions running this week. I think Las Vegas > > was last week. Was this a Speed Channel rerun? > > Aloha > > Perry > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: I Erbs > > To: healey help > > Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 10:31 am > > Subject: [Healeys] 69 Sprite at Berret Jackson > > > > currently the cleanest Box Sprite I have ever seen on speed right now sold > > for $16000.00 ! plus fees.... > > wow > > -- > > Ira Erbs > > DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS > > IT CONSULTANTS > > Portland, OR > > > > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS > IT CONSULTANTS > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Sep 30 17:28:16 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:28:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve Message-ID: <3971C922A34840A6B442A2AE7E9246FA@LeonardPCPC> So - why does the oil gauge oscillate? Mine has only done it periodically - maybe once every six months or a year. The rest of the time it is steady. I don't know if there is air in the line or not. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robert Blair" > To: ; ; ; > "MarkLaPierre" > Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 1:03 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve > > >> >> David Nock - You run a big Healey shop - when you replace and oil guage - >> do >> you ensure there is a certain amount of air in the guage oil line to the >> guage >> to dampen the needle - I dont think so ..... there is no air in my oil >> line - >> and no oscillating needle. >> >> Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com From javrugtman at htcnet.org Thu Sep 30 18:04:28 2010 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:04:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <3971C922A34840A6B442A2AE7E9246FA@LeonardPCPC> References: <3971C922A34840A6B442A2AE7E9246FA@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <4CA5258C.7080004@htcnet.org> My oil gauge oscillates when the connection is loose and I get these little spots of oil on my pants. Tighten it up and it's smooth again. John 64/66 BJ8 On 9/30/2010 7:28 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: > So - why does the oil gauge oscillate? Mine has only done it > periodically - maybe once every six months or a year. The rest of the > time it is steady. I don't know if there is air in the line or not. > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Blair" >> To: ; ; >> ; "MarkLaPierre" >> Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 1:03 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve >> >> >>> >>> David Nock - You run a big Healey shop - when you replace and oil >>> guage - do >>> you ensure there is a certain amount of air in the guage oil line to >>> the guage >>> to dampen the needle - I dont think so ..... there is no air in my >>> oil line - >>> and no oscillating needle. >>> >>> Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Sep 30 18:06:30 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:06:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <8CD2EFFDE30825D-1498-7781@Webmail-m112.sysops.aol.com> References: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4CA4FA19.80507@chello.nl> <8CD2EFFDE30825D-1498-7781@Webmail-m112.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <93981F85D4524A17A665BEE6DA29B6F9@LIFEBOOK> I've never seen these gauge pulsations. However, I have often loosened the fitting at the gauge on initial start up until oil appears, to get a good reading. More than once, prior to bleeding off the air, I have seen excessive pressure indicated at the gauge (80 to 90 PSI) until I bled the air off, then got a good normal reading with relief pressures about 60 to 65 PSI. I know this sounds opposite to the "air pocket needed" theory, but that's been my experience. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 5:45 PM To: ; Cc: ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve > I agree. And as I recall 6 cylinder Healeys had two different oil pump > designs. Perhaps one design produces bigger pulsations. > Gary Hodson > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Oudesluys > To: Robert Blair > Cc: Mark at autox.team.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 3:59 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve > > > I disagree. In a braking system the transmission of force/pressure has > o be instant and precise so no volume of air to compress can be allowed > s that would take to much travel from the brake pedal. The brake force > n relation to the force applied to the pedal would not change, although > ou will never reach a decent force as the brake pedal cannot travel far > nough. In a pressure gauge it does not matter how much oil flows in the > ine, there is plenty of it so with or without the air it will always > ndicate the same pressure: the pressure the oil pump is delivering or > ather the opening pressure of the relief valve. > owever I can imagine that without air in the line the gauge may vibrate > epending on the design of the oil pump. > ees Oudesluijs. > L > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Sep 30 18:30:35 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:30:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <93981F85D4524A17A665BEE6DA29B6F9@LIFEBOOK> References: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4CA4FA19.80507@chello.nl> <8CD2EFFDE30825D-1498-7781@Webmail-m112.sysops.aol.com> <93981F85D4524A17A665BEE6DA29B6F9@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <012601cb60ff$dd7a5520$986eff60$@rr.com> Isn't it odd and interesting how the designers of Healeys and their component parts were able to get them to behave one way for one person, and the opposite way for another person? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 8:07 PM To: coudesluijs at chello.nl; rnbmail at yahoo.com; warthodson at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Mark at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve I've never seen these gauge pulsations. However, I have often loosened the fitting at the gauge on initial start up until oil appears, to get a good reading. More than once, prior to bleeding off the air, I have seen excessive pressure indicated at the gauge (80 to 90 PSI) until I bled the air off, then got a good normal reading with relief pressures about 60 to 65 PSI. I know this sounds opposite to the "air pocket needed" theory, but that's been my experience. Rich From rjswain at hotmail.com Thu Sep 30 18:44:53 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 00:44:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet Louvers Message-ID: I'm considering louvering (is that a word?) the bonnet on my BN4. I'd like to have them look like the louvers on a 100M. Can anyone give me the dimensions of these louvers? I just want to know what to look for when I talk to somebody who does this work. Thanks Rick Swain '59 BN4 From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Sep 30 18:51:51 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:51:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <012601cb60ff$dd7a5520$986eff60$@rr.com> References: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4CA4FA19.80507@chello.nl> <8CD2EFFDE30825D-1498-7781@Webmail-m112.sysops.aol.com> <93981F85D4524A17A665BEE6DA29B6F9@LIFEBOOK> <012601cb60ff$dd7a5520$986eff60$@rr.com> Message-ID: It is a common application of the perverse law of inanimate objects. This is the same law that says if you have a sink full of dishes and turn on the water, there will be a spoon placed so that the water will splash all over you. Rick On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 5:30 PM, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > Isn't it odd and interesting how the designers of Healeys and their > component parts were able to get them to behave one way for one person, and > the opposite way for another person? > > Steve Byers From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Sep 30 18:53:08 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 18:53:08 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve In-Reply-To: <012601cb60ff$dd7a5520$986eff60$@rr.com> References: <204224.39293.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4CA4FA19.80507@chello.nl><8CD2EFFDE30825D-1498-7781@Webmail-m112.sysops.aol.com><93981F85D4524A17A665BEE6DA29B6F9@LIFEBOOK> <012601cb60ff$dd7a5520$986eff60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <3514296295834A928550D81CE947F06A@oscar> ..oil pressure gauges on the whole are pretty dumb, that is to say there is no computer doing millions of computations that are causing the needle to flutter a bit. There are, however, a number of reasons. The pressure relief spring is the most likely to weaken and cause this by a flutter of the seal in the bore. A single worn bearing on the crank, cam or rocker shaft. A slightly larger gap on one side of the pump housing might do it. I would be more concerned with the volume being distributed than with total pressure. It takes very little pressure to distribute the lubricant throughout the engine, in fact too much pressure will erode the bearings, though I've never seen direct evidence of it happening. And yes, I bleed the pressure sending line if it's been apart.. IMO, dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 6:31 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve Isn't it odd and interesting how the designers of Healeys and their component parts were able to get them to behave one way for one person, and the opposite way for another person? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 8:07 PM To: coudesluijs at chello.nl; rnbmail at yahoo.com; warthodson at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Mark at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure relief valve I've never seen these gauge pulsations. However, I have often loosened the fitting at the gauge on initial start up until oil appears, to get a good reading. More than once, prior to bleeding off the air, I have seen excessive pressure indicated at the gauge (80 to 90 PSI) until I bled the air off, then got a good normal reading with relief pressures about 60 to 65 PSI. I know this sounds opposite to the "air pocket needed" theory, but that's been my experience. Rich _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 30 19:30:26 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:30:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] HellOOoo References: <408308.92071.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01cb6108$3a6e2240$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Yep, sounded too much like babble filler to me so I had to turn it off. Didn't think that was really something that I needed to know at 7:15 in the morning. Needed some good driven music instead. Glad I missed it now that I know what it was about. However that is one of my favorite talk radio stations. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Mandas" To: "Austin Healey" Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:35 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] HellOOoo > List, > > Thank y'all for responding to my little sever check. I was getting > fidgety. > Healey List Withdrawal, you know. > > For all of you at home, Hope you are warm and dry. It's raining buckets > here > in CT. > > For all of you not at home, What are you doing answering Healey email at > work, > Hmmmmmmm? > > And Randy, I wish I were there. What a lovely thing to be doing.... > > Greg > > Off-Off Subject: Did you hear the NPR report where the weather guy said > if > you were to weigh a hurricane it would weight the equivalent of 20 Billion > cats and 20 Billion Dogs? Scheez! > > Happy Healey-ing! > > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Sep 30 19:35:08 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2010 01:35:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?oil_pressure?= Message-ID: <20101001013508.10844.qmail@server278.com> if i remember correctly my old stovebolt chevy engine with the dipper system only ran at 15 psi, 30 being the top indication. i know it is not the same engine, but i can remember wrapping it up to hear it bellow without it self-destructing. hjim From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 30 21:29:11 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:29:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake hose bracket Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100930202730.01fff330@pop.att.yahoo.com> Is the brake hose bracket, mounted on the rear of the brake rotor dust cover, painted or zinc plated? TIA, John Spaur '62 BT7