From healeydriver1 at gmail.com Mon Mar 1 04:30:03 2010 From: healeydriver1 at gmail.com (R Phillips) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 06:30:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right Message-ID: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Hello listers, My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? Thanks Ric '65 BJ8 From bcrist at club-internet.fr Mon Mar 1 04:44:09 2010 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 12:44:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B8BA889.8010505@club-internet.fr> Balance the wheels ? B R Phillips a icrit : > Hello listers, > > My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct > and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just > isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? > > Thanks > > Ric > '65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bcrist at club-internet.fr From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Mar 1 05:00:35 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 12:00:35 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000301cab936$cd643730$682ca590$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Try driving along somewhere where you can keep off the brakes and stop without killing yourself, maybe a slight uphill gradient. So, pull over and immediately check if the RHS, probably front, disc is hot or hotter than the LHS. If so, you've probably cracked it. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R Phillips Sent: 01 March 2010 11:30 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right Hello listers, My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? Thanks Ric '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Mar 1 05:47:49 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 12:47:49 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000a01cab93d$66ba00d0$342e0270$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> In my previous message, by "cracked it" I meant "solved it". Just realized that our usage might be different to yours! S -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R Phillips Sent: 01 March 2010 11:30 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right Hello listers, My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? Thanks Ric '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 1 06:01:27 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 14:01:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B8BBAA7.7070205@chello.nl> Are they new tires? Change the frontwheels over l to r and r to l and see what happens. If there are no changes have caster and camber settings checked, not only toe in/out. Kees Oudesluijs NL R Phillips schreef: > Hello listers, > > My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct > and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just > isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? > > Thanks > > Ric > '65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.733 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2715 - datum van uitgifte: 02/28/10 20:34:00 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Mar 1 06:17:14 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 08:17:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000001cab941$832010d0$89603270$@rr.com> Ric, if you don't find any evidence of brake dragging with your foot off the pedal, then you may have a bad tire. If a tire develops a separation in the sidewall or tread, it can affect the rolling resistance of the tire and cause a pull to that side. If you switch the tires from left to right, etc., and the tire is the problem, the car will now pull in the opposite direction. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R Phillips Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 6:30 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right Hello listers, My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? Thanks Ric '65 BJ8 From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 1 09:19:06 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 08:19:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <393C6385-E2D4-4A5D-B656-B6EC256CB333@sbcglobal.net> If the steering wheel is being pulled there is a problem in the front brakes, If the car is drifting on way the problem is in the rear brakes. Your problem sounds like an adjustment of the rear brakes. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Mar 1, 2010, at 3:30 AM, R Phillips wrote: > Hello listers, > > My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures > are correct > and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, > just > isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? > > Thanks > > Ric > '65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Mar 1 10:01:10 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 12:01:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] British Car Week Message-ID: <00bc01cab960$cb8ee8e0$62acbaa0$@net> Just noticed that the URL for the British Car Week web site has expired. Anyone know anything about this? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From pyoas at yahoo.com Mon Mar 1 10:51:26 2010 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 09:51:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right Message-ID: <624433.8648.qm@web112502.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Ric, When was the last time you checked your front shocks to be sure the securing bolts are still tight? Patrick Hello listers, My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? Thanks Ric '65 BJ8 From al at bighealey.org Mon Mar 1 12:45:21 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:45:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Koni rear mount design vs Cape In-Reply-To: <20100223205729.26324.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20100223205729.26324.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <007401cab977$bbd75a60$33860f20$@org> Steve: you indicate below that if you had it to do over again, you would go with the Putzke shock conversion over the Cape kit. Can you tell us what your thinking is on that score? Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve B. Gerow Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Koni rear mount design vs Cape I've had the Cape rear kit installed for several years and even though the bottom mounts were bent by the inclusion of too-short shocks, the top mount IMHO is a good design and shows no distortion whatever. The Cape kit is similiar to the Koni drawings except it replaces the two small lengths of angle steel with a full width piece approximately 3 ft long. For pictures, see: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_rear_suspension However having said this if I had it to do over again I'd go with the Putzke kit. -- Steve Gerow BN6 with tube shocks From amalin at mac.com Mon Mar 1 13:19:30 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 15:19:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] British Car Week In-Reply-To: <00bc01cab960$cb8ee8e0$62acbaa0$@net> References: <00bc01cab960$cb8ee8e0$62acbaa0$@net> Message-ID: <7D17B52E-F456-436A-A853-85F64ECD391A@mac.com> This happens when the owner does not renew the domain name with a domain registrar. Sometimes it expires because of forgetfulness, other times because the owner no longer wants it. This case is probably due to the first reason. Al Malin On Mar 1, 2010, at 12:01 PM, John Sims wrote: > Just noticed that the URL for the British Car Week web site has expired. > Anyone know anything about this? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Mar 1 13:44:25 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 15:44:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: British Car Week Message-ID: <00db01cab97f$fb7fead0$f27fc070$@net> That is why I have all of my domains on automatic renewal. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Malin Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 3:20 PM To: Healeys List Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Car Week This happens when the owner does not renew the domain name with a domain registrar. Sometimes it expires because of forgetfulness, other times because the owner no longer wants it. This case is probably due to the first reason. Al Malin On Mar 1, 2010, at 12:01 PM, John Sims wrote: > Just noticed that the URL for the British Car Week web site has expired. > Anyone know anything about this? From ah3000me at gmail.com Mon Mar 1 14:23:32 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 16:23:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <8191550565706134771@unknownmsgid> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> <8191550565706134771@unknownmsgid> Message-ID: Discs get hot, even when the calipers aren't dragging. Don't touch the discs; check the caliper instead. - Tom On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 7:00 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Try driving along somewhere where you can keep off the brakes and stop > without killing yourself, maybe a slight uphill gradient. So, pull over and > immediately check if the RHS, probably front, disc is hot or hotter than the > LHS. If so, you've probably cracked it. > Simon From rpschauss at gmail.com Mon Mar 1 14:29:06 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 16:29:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> <8191550565706134771@unknownmsgid> Message-ID: <3638ca1f1003011329k10a14172y867330ec521623f8@mail.gmail.com> Have the tires checked. My son took his Volvo into the dealer for a similar problem and was told that he had "radial tire pull". I looked it up and it appears to be a problem with the belts being in the wrong position. The people at the dealer told him that he should be able to get the used car dealer where he bought the car to replace the tire. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 4:23 PM, Tom wrote: > Discs get hot, even when the calipers aren't dragging. Don't touch > the discs; check the caliper instead. > > - Tom > > > On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 7:00 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: >> Try driving along somewhere where you can keep off the brakes and stop >> without killing yourself, maybe a slight uphill gradient. So, pull over and >> immediately check if the RHS, probably front, disc is hot or hotter than the >> LHS. If so, you've probably cracked it. >> Simon > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss at gmail.com From geatros at shaw.ca Mon Mar 1 15:20:05 2010 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:20:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doors, Grill and Chome Parts For Sale Message-ID: Hi , I have BJ8 stripped down doors., Grill Parts, some brake parts, Front MKIII Badges,Door spears BT7 Top Bows, and dash engine Top end bits plus more for sale . Near new 2 plus 2 black with red piping seat cover / interior kit front seats are part leather comes with front kick panels, armrest ,rear seat back rest , ect.... $800 CAD . If anyone has any interest in these items or other parts that you might need please contact me off the list. for photos. Cheers Kenny Vancouver BC From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Mar 1 15:37:48 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:37:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <3638ca1f1003011329k10a14172y867330ec521623f8@mail.gmail.com> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> <8191550565706134771@unknownmsgid> <3638ca1f1003011329k10a14172y867330ec521623f8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <5D2ED7FF-334F-4E30-B567-1A8EC32C4922@gmail.com> Easy way to check for a tire pull is to swap them side to side. IOW put the Right side tires on the left and the lefts on the right. If the pull is now the other way it is the tires. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Mar 1, 2010, at 13:29, Peter Schauss wrote: > Have the tires checked. My son took his Volvo into the dealer for a > similar problem and was told that he had "radial tire pull". I looked > it up and it appears to be a problem with the belts being in the wrong > position. The people at the dealer told him that he should be able to > get the used car dealer where he bought the car to replace the tire. > > HTH, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > > On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 4:23 PM, Tom wrote: >> Discs get hot, even when the calipers aren't dragging. Don't touch >> the discs; check the caliper instead. >> >> - Tom >> >> >> On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 7:00 AM, Simon Lachlan >> wrote: >>> Try driving along somewhere where you can keep off the brakes and >>> stop >>> without killing yourself, maybe a slight uphill gradient. So, pull >>> over > and >>> immediately check if the RHS, probably front, disc is hot or >>> hotter than > the >>> LHS. If so, you've probably cracked it. >>> Simon >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Mar 1 17:23:16 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 08:23:16 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> References: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Ric - First check for a loose or worn (leaking) shock. Then check all fulcrum/king pin links at the bottom, make sure somthing isn't loose or gone. Check track rod ends make sure one isn't so loose it is causing a tire to toe out. You can easily check for toe-out by parking car with wheels straight ahead. Take a long string and hold one end to the rear tire then pull the string forward to the front tire. If either of the front tires shows a slight "toe-out" when referncing the string that should indicate your problem. Finally, if none of this shows a problem, you may need to take your brake calipers off and check if one of the pistons is corroded and thus dragging a brake on the right disc. On 3/1/10, R Phillips wrote: > Hello listers, > > My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct > and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just > isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? > > Thanks > > Ric > '65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Mar 1 17:25:02 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 08:25:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Koni rear mount design vs Cape In-Reply-To: <007401cab977$bbd75a60$33860f20$@org> References: <20100223205729.26324.qmail@hoster902.com> <007401cab977$bbd75a60$33860f20$@org> Message-ID: Al - Putzke's rear kit requires no modifications and uses the existing shock mounts. Cape kit you have to drill up and reinforce the rear seat shelf. Alan On 3/2/10, Al Fuller wrote: > Steve: you indicate below that if you had it to do over again, you would go > with the Putzke shock conversion over the Cape kit. Can you tell us what > your thinking is on that score? > > Al Fuller > al at bighealey.org > '62 BT-7 > '65 BJ-8 > '85 Rx-7 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Steve B. Gerow > Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:57 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Koni rear mount design vs Cape > > I've had the Cape rear kit installed for several years and even though the > bottom mounts were bent by the inclusion of too-short shocks, the top mount > IMHO is a good design and shows no distortion whatever. > > The Cape kit is similiar to the Koni drawings except it replaces the two > small lengths of angle steel with a full width piece approximately 3 ft > long. For pictures, see: > http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_rear_suspension > > However having said this if I had it to do over again I'd go with the Putzke > kit. > -- > Steve Gerow > BN6 with tube shocks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Mon Mar 1 21:26:02 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 20:26:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e1003010330rb47973bwb92af948f3edba31@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <278908.36950.qm@web53008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I suggest you jack the front of the car up , with wheels clear of pavement, push on the brakes, if the wheel does not turn freely within 2 revolutions check the calliper and the flex hose. calliper sticking or brake hose collapsing inside. If wheel does turn freely then change tires to opposite sides, check all front end suspension components tightness and then take it for drive. If pull still there , check front end alignment. If that is OK check rear brakes - one may be sticking due to oil seepage on brakes. If this OK check for broken springs, check rear axle alignment. if this is OK check chassis alignment. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Mon, 3/1/10, R Phillips wrote: From: R Phillips Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right To: healeys at autox.team.net Received: Monday, March 1, 2010, 6:30 AM Hello listers, My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? Thanks Ric '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Mon Mar 1 21:34:38 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 20:34:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right In-Reply-To: <278908.36950.qm@web53008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2243.31519.qm@web53002.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Mon, 3/1/10, Martin Jansen wrote: From: Martin Jansen Subject: Re: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right To: healeys at autox.team.net, "R Phillips" Received: Monday, March 1, 2010, 11:26 PM I suggest you jack the front of the car up , with wheels clear of pavement, push on the brakes then release the brake pedal, if the wheel does not turn freely within 2 revolutions check the calliper and the flex hose. calliper sticking or brake hose collapsing inside. If wheel does turn freely then change tires to opposite sides, check all front end suspension components tightness and then take it for drive. If pull still there , check front end alignment. If that is OK check rear brakes - one may be sticking due to oil seepage on brakes. If this OK check for broken springs, check rear axle alignment. if this is OK check chassis alignment. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Mon, 3/1/10, R Phillips wrote: From: R Phillips Subject: [Healeys] Slight pull to the right To: healeys at autox.team.net Received: Monday, March 1, 2010, 6:30 AM Hello listers, My BJ8 has developed a slight pull to the right. Tire pressures are correct and there is no noticeable pull when braking. Not a dramatic pull, just isn't quite tracking correctly. Advice as to where to begin? Thanks Ric '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com From raymead at comcast.net Tue Mar 2 12:30:24 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 19:30:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? Message-ID: <1518595787.11151841267558224512.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> hello all Way back when (mid 60s) , i was in a sportscar club in San Antonio, Texas called Checkpointer's Ltd.......... There was a guy in the club (an Englishman who was in our Air Force), who had a great Healey........... (I had an old beat up and modified '56 Healey)................. As I remember it - he told me that stripes down the hood of a car actually mean something - stripes could be thick or thin, and would refer to both the car and the driver..........B depending on the thickness of the stripes, and their layout, it would mean something like "car ready", or "driver ready" or "car and driver ready".............. Anyone know what the heck I am talking about?????? tks, ray From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 2 13:27:25 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 12:27:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <1518595787.11151841267558224512.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1518595787.11151841267558224512.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <70501.2630.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Alright Ray, what are you drinking and why haven't you passed it around to the rest of us? Just curious, what triggered the interesting question 40+ years later? To steal one from David Letterman... The top ten purposes for racing stripes: > 10:Racing stripes make the car go faster > 9:Racing stripes give the driver an aggressive attitude > 8:Racing stripes give bugs "lane choice" right before a bug strike > 7:Because flames on a British car just look silly > 6:Racing stripes make the car look like it's going fast when parked > 5:Racing stripes represent how many times you've had to re-do the car > 4:Racing stripes allow the driver to be a good samaritan by drawing the police's attention away from the faster moving car in the next lane > 3:Who wants a one-color car > 2:Racing stripes prove the painter can still paint a straight line even after a case of beer > 1:The Metric System: It takes nearly a gallon to paint a car properly and paint is sold by the liter in England. Too many cars were 90% complete and painters had difficulty matching the original color. >Just having fun on a Tuesday afternoon. Cheers To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Sent: Tue, March 2, 2010 1:30:24 PM Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? hello all Way back when (mid 60s) , i was in a sportscar club in San Antonio, Texas called Checkpointer's Ltd.......... There was a guy in the club (an Englishman who was in our Air Force), who had a great Healey........... (I had an old beat up and modified '56 Healey)................. As I remember it - he told me that stripes down the hood of a car actually mean something - stripes could be thick or thin, and would refer to both the car and the driver..........B depending on the thickness of the stripes, and their layout, it would mean something like "car ready", or "driver ready" or "car and driver ready".............. Anyone know what the heck I am talking about?????? tks, ray From bighealey3k at aim.com Tue Mar 2 13:43:25 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2010 15:43:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <1518595787.11151841267558224512.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1518595787.11151841267558224512.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CC886023E5C58B-39B8-68D@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> Ray, Check out the discussion on Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_stripe. The color could identify the country the racer is from and if off center inline with the driver, indicate what side of the car the driver is situated. In NASCAR "Yellow tape on the back bumper of a NASCAR race car. It's presence means that the driver is a series rookie" Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: raymead at comcast.net To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Sent: Tue, Mar 2, 2010 2:30 pm Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? hello all Way back when (mid 60s) , i was in a sportscar club in San Antonio, Texas called Checkpointer's Ltd.......... here was a guy in the club (an Englishman who was in our Air Force), who had a great Healey........... (I had an old beat up and modified '56 Healey)................. As I remember it - he told me that stripes down the hood of a car actually mean something - stripes could be thick or thin, and would refer to both the car and the driver..........B depending on the thickness of the stripes, and their layout, it would mean something like "car ready", or "driver ready" or "car and driver ready".............. Anyone know what the heck I am talking about?????? tks, ray ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From pennell at cox.net Tue Mar 2 14:23:07 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 16:23:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <70501.2630.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100302162307.3CL0S.560939.imail@eastrmwml40> Carlos, I painted stripes on my BN7 for reason #10! Keith ---- Carlos Cruz wrote: > Alright Ray, what are you drinking and why haven't you passed it around to the rest of us? > > Just curious, what triggered the interesting question 40+ years later? > > To steal one from David Letterman... > > The top ten purposes for racing stripes: > > > > 10:Racing stripes make the car go faster > > > > 9:Racing stripes give the driver an aggressive attitude > > > > 8:Racing stripes give bugs "lane choice" right before a bug strike > > > > 7:Because flames on a British car just look silly > > > > 6:Racing stripes make the car look like it's going fast when parked > > > > 5:Racing stripes represent how many times you've had to re-do the car > > > > 4:Racing stripes allow the driver to be a good samaritan by drawing the police's attention away from the faster moving car in the next lane > > > > 3:Who wants a one-color car > > > > 2:Racing stripes prove the painter can still paint a straight line even after a case of beer > > > > 1:The Metric System: It takes nearly a gallon to paint a car properly and paint is sold by the liter in England. Too many cars were 90% complete and painters had difficulty matching the original color. > > >Just having fun on a Tuesday afternoon. > > Cheers > To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB > Sent: Tue, March 2, 2010 1:30:24 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? > > hello all > > > > Way back when (mid 60s) , i was in a sportscar club in San Antonio, Texas > > called Checkpointer's Ltd.......... > > > There was a guy in the club (an Englishman who was in our > > Air Force), who had a great Healey........... (I had an old beat > > up and modified '56 Healey)................. > > > > As I remember it - he told me that stripes down the hood of a car > > actually mean something - stripes could be thick or thin, and would > > refer to both the car and the driver..........B depending on the thickness > > of the stripes, and their layout, it would mean something like "car ready", > > or "driver ready" or "car and driver ready".............. > > > > Anyone know what the heck I am talking about?????? > > > > tks, ray > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Mar 2 14:34:38 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 21:34:38 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Dummy clutch tool Message-ID: <000a01caba50$2994d450$7cbe7cf0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I may be able to get my hands on a J.W.Pickavant "Dummy Flywheel Clutch tool", their precise wording. I've never done a clutch so, beyond reading the books, don't quite know the ins and outs of the process. I see that there's a tool, 18G99A presumably Churchill, listed in the manual. Is this essentially the same thing? Thanks, Simon From raymead at comcast.net Tue Mar 2 15:57:33 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 22:57:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <70501.2630.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <760974785.11278641267570653151.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi Carlos, Actually, that question has been bouncing around in my head for a long time (you have a lot more time when you are retired)!!!!!!!!!!! As for the Letterman list - can't say I'm a fan, but that was a funny list.... (doesn't answer my question, but still funny)! tks, happy motoring, ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carlos Cruz" To: raymead at comcast.net, "AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB" Sent: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 3:27:25 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? Alright Ray, what are you drinking and why haven't you passed it around to the rest of us? B Just curious, what triggered the interesting question 40+ years later?B To steal one from David Letterman...B The top ten purposes for racing stripes: 10: Racing stripes make the car go faster 9: Racing stripesB give the driver an aggressive attitude 8: Racing stripesB give bugs "lane choice" right before a bug strike 7: Because flames on a British car just look silly 6: Racing stripesB make the car look like it's going fast when parked 5: Racing stripes represent how many times you've had to re-do the car 4: Racing stripes allow the driver to be a good samaritan by drawing the police's attention away from the faster moving car in the next lane 3: Who wants a one-color car 2: Racing stripes prove the painter can still paint a straight line even after a case of beer 1: The Metric System: B It takes nearly a gallon to paint a car properly and paint is sold by the liter in England. B Too many cars were 90% complete and painters had difficulty matching the original color. Just having fun on a Tuesday afternoon. Cheers From: "raymead at comcast.net" To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Sent: Tue, March 2, 2010 1:30:24 PM Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? hello all Way back when (mid 60s) , i was in a sportscar club in San Antonio, Texas called Checkpointer's Ltd.......... There was a guy in the club (an Englishman who was in our Air Force), who had a great Healey........... (I had an old beat up and modified '56 Healey)................. As I remember it - he told me that stripes down the hood of a car actually mean something - stripes could be thick or thin, and would refer to both the car and the driver..........BB depending on the thickness of the stripes, and their layout, it would mean something like "car ready", or "driver ready" or "car and driver ready".............. Anyone know what the heck I am talking about?????? tks, ray From raymead at comcast.net Tue Mar 2 15:59:40 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 22:59:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <70501.2630.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <651497949.11280071267570780587.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Carlos, Forgot to answer your question about what I have been drinking.................. B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B MEAD (of course)!! ha, ha ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carlos Cruz" To: raymead at comcast.net, "AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB" Sent: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 3:27:25 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? Alright Ray, what are you drinking and why haven't you passed it around to the rest of us? B Just curious, what triggered the interesting question 40+ years later?B To steal one from David Letterman...B The top ten purposes for racing stripes: 10: Racing stripes make the car go faster 9: Racing stripesB give the driver an aggressive attitude 8: Racing stripesB give bugs "lane choice" right before a bug strike 7: Because flames on a British car just look silly 6: Racing stripesB make the car look like it's going fast when parked 5: Racing stripes represent how many times you've had to re-do the car 4: Racing stripes allow the driver to be a good samaritan by drawing the police's attention away from the faster moving car in the next lane 3: Who wants a one-color car 2: Racing stripes prove the painter can still paint a straight line even after a case of beer 1: The Metric System: B It takes nearly a gallon to paint a car properly and paint is sold by the liter in England. B Too many cars were 90% complete and painters had difficulty matching the original color. Just having fun on a Tuesday afternoon. Cheers From: "raymead at comcast.net" To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Sent: Tue, March 2, 2010 1:30:24 PM Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? hello all Way back when (mid 60s) , i was in a sportscar club in San Antonio, Texas called Checkpointer's Ltd.......... There was a guy in the club (an Englishman who was in our Air Force), who had a great Healey........... (I had an old beat up and modified '56 Healey)................. As I remember it - he told me that stripes down the hood of a car actually mean something - stripes could be thick or thin, and would refer to both the car and the driver..........BB depending on the thickness of the stripes, and their layout, it would mean something like "car ready", or "driver ready" or "car and driver ready".............. Anyone know what the heck I am talking about?????? tks, ray From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Tue Mar 2 19:07:39 2010 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 18:07:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <1518595787.11151841267558224512.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <829117.74411.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ray and all I can't answer your specific questions but here's what I know. In a conversation I had with the iconic John Fitch at Limerock last summer, he said Coby Whitmore invented the American racing stripe. Whitmore was a very wellknown illustrator of the 40's/50's. His Saterday Evening Post covers will look familiar to you. The late Mr Whitmore was Mr Fitches dear friend, neighbor, and collaborator on the 1949, XK120 based ,Whitmore/Fitch Special, which does not have a stripe. I regret I didn't ask him which car was the first to wear the stripe and hope to see him again this summer to pose the question but I have a feeling it could be a Cunningham team car. Anyone Know? Best JK --- On Tue, 3/2/10, raymead at comcast.net wrote: > From: raymead at comcast.net > Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? > To: "AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB" > Date: Tuesday, March 2, 2010, 2:30 PM > hello all > > > > > Anyone know what the heck I am talking about?????? > > > > tks, ray From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Mar 2 19:34:33 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 18:34:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <829117.74411.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <128565.18157.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Wikipedia to the rescue: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_stripe Fitch and Whitmore created the Fitch Whitmore LeMans Special from Whitmore's XK-120 in 1951. In 1952 Fitch was hired to drive the Cunningham C2 at LeMans which featured the dual blue stripes over the white body. Given the Fitch-Whitmore connection, could be he was the source of the stripes. BTW, meeting and talking to John Fitch is a great experience. He's a true old-school gentleman. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Tue, 3/2/10, Jackson Krall wrote: From: Jackson Krall Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? To: "AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB" , raymead at comcast.net Date: Tuesday, March 2, 2010, 9:07 PM Ray and all I can't answer your specific questions but here's what I know. In a conversation I had with the iconic John Fitch at Limerock last summer, he said Coby Whitmore invented the American racing stripe. Whitmore was a very wellknown illustrator of the 40's/50's. His Saterday Evening Post covers will look familiar to you. The late Mr Whitmore was Mr Fitches dear friend, neighbor, and collaborator on the 1949, XK120 based ,Whitmore/Fitch Special, which does not have a stripe. I regret I didn't ask him which car was the first to wear the stripe and hope to see him again this summer to pose the question but I have a feeling it could be a Cunningham team car. Anyone Know? Best JK From 57healey at gmail.com Tue Mar 2 21:08:58 2010 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 22:08:58 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Car dealer tomfoolery and Costco Auto Buyer program Message-ID: <85F68681-0F72-435C-BD0B-4569E7D90CCC@Gmail.com> Why would the Costco rep at a dealer work under two names? Costco told me to expect a call from a certian person at the dealership. When I got the call it came from another guy. I found out later that the guy who called may have infact been the Costco club contact, but he may haven given me a fake name. Sent from my iPod From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Mar 2 21:36:50 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 20:36:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Car dealer tomfoolery and Costco Auto Buyer program In-Reply-To: <85F68681-0F72-435C-BD0B-4569E7D90CCC@Gmail.com> References: <85F68681-0F72-435C-BD0B-4569E7D90CCC@Gmail.com> Message-ID: It may not be tomfoolery at all. I work for a car dealer, (not in sales) Costco leads have to be answered ASAP. If you look at the number of hours a dealer is open, and subtract 40 (The hours a full time salesperson works) you will figure out that either they have one guy that works way more than 40 hours per week or they have more than one person answering Costco leads. Costco probably gave you the name of the main guy that answers their leads. He could well have been off that day, and someone else answered the lead. The dealer also might have had a personel change and they did not get the paperwork at Costco changed. As far as two names go, I doubt it. In my state at least salespeople are fingerprinted and licensed. Rick On Tue, Mar 2, 2010 at 8:08 PM, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote: > Why would the Costco rep at a dealer work under two names? > > Costco told me to expect a call from a certian person at the dealership. > When I got the call it came from another guy. I found out later that > the guy who called may have infact been the Costco club contact, but he may > haven given me a fake name. > > Sent from my iPod > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 3 06:45:19 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 05:45:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <829117.74411.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <829117.74411.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <402356.82400.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Jackson wins the prize - at least according to Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_stripe The original racing stripes were stripes applied to the Cunningham team of racing cars[1] to identify them in the field during races. Another purpose is to make it easier for a driver to align a spun out car with the circuit. > The first racing stripes were applied to high-performance prototype automobiles built as racecarsby Briggs Cunningham and placed into competition as his motorsport team, beginning in 1951.[citation needed] Cunningham racecars usually carried two parallel blue stripes running from front to rear in the center of the white body so that spectators could identify the team's automobiles readily during races. The stripes often were called "Le Mans stripes" because of the repeated efforts of Cunningham to win the 24 Hours of Le Mans in France, where the French had a great affection for him. His tradition was soon adopted by other racing teams in many venues. Thereafter, the use of racing stripes soon became common in the 1960s and early 70s for both race and road cars. Hope this helps. Cheers, Carlos ________________________________ From: Jackson Krall To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB ; raymead at comcast.net Sent: Tue, March 2, 2010 8:07:39 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? Ray and all I can't answer your specific questions but here's what I know. In a conversation I had with the iconic John Fitch at Limerock last summer, he said Coby Whitmore invented the American racing stripe. Whitmore was a very wellknown illustrator of the 40's/50's. His Saterday Evening Post covers will look familiar to you. The late Mr Whitmore was Mr Fitches dear friend, neighbor, and collaborator on the 1949, XK120 based ,Whitmore/Fitch Special, which does not have a stripe. I regret I didn't ask him which car was the first to wear the stripe and hope to see him again this summer to pose the question but I have a feeling it could be a Cunningham team car. Anyone Know? Best JK --- On Tue, 3/2/10, raymead at comcast.net wrote: > From: raymead at comcast.net > Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? > To: "AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB" > Date: Tuesday, March 2, 2010, 2:30 PM > hello all > > > > > Anyone know what the heck I am talking about?????? > > > > tks, ray From ahpowered at hotmail.com Wed Mar 3 12:55:08 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 13:55:08 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram Message-ID: Anyone have this book? I have my tranny back in and I am trying to start my BN7 to no avail. Is spark plug 1 at the front of the engine in this diagram or at the firewall? Looks like front but I need to be 100% sure. Many thanks, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Mar 3 13:30:35 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 15:30:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006b01cabb10$612a1860$237e4920$@rr.com> Hi, Scott - Since the #1 sparkplug is at the front of the engine, I would assume any diagram applying to the 3000 engine should number the cylinders from the front as well. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scott willis Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 2:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram Anyone have this book? I have my tranny back in and I am trying to start my BN7 to no avail. Is spark plug 1 at the front of the engine in this diagram or at the firewall? Looks like front but I need to be 100% sure. Many thanks, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Mar 3 14:08:49 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 21:08:49 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001801cabb15$bbb2e050$3318a0f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Hi, I've got the page open. It may be a schematic, but no.1 cylinder is no.1 cylinder and can only ever be in the front, at the firewall. Think about it, if anyone suggested that no.6 cylinder could ever have no.1 plug he'd not sell many more books? (And Haynes sold lots and lots and lots of books!). Here's something I filed some time back. Per Roger Moment:- "Starting at the high tension lead from the coil, and going CLOCKWISE, the hole just to the right is for the #6, the lower hole is for #3, the next lower hole to the left is for #5, the next lower hole to the left is for #1, the last lower hole to the left is for #4, and the other upper hole, just to the left of the coil lead is for #2. The firing order for a "6" is : 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 If you look down at the cap and progress COUNTERCLOCKWISE starting with any of the wire numbers I identified, you will see that the sequence is correct." Just thought that might help if you're kicking ideas around in that area. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scott willis Sent: 03 March 2010 19:55 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram Anyone have this book? I have my tranny back in and I am trying to start my BN7 to no avail. Is spark plug 1 at the front of the engine in this diagram or at the firewall? Looks like front but I need to be 100% sure. Many thanks, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Wed Mar 3 14:15:34 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 16:15:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <402356.82400.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <829117.74411.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <402356.82400.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Maybe I just don't remember correctly. Back in the late 50's, when VIR opened, I was told that white with blue stripe were the "US racing colors" as red was Italian color (cars racing for Italy in intl events), BRG for GB, etc. This thread leads me to believe that maybe that was not exactly right. I remember Cunningham racing there, but I thought I remembered all white cars had the blue stripe. Am I wrong? Bob Johnson BRG BJ8 where green represents my favorite Healey colour From schauss at worldnet.att.net Wed Mar 3 16:08:34 2010 From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 18:08:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100303230857.4A20D187672@autox.team.net> Scott, I have a different edition of this manual but I found figure 4.1 and it is misleading. Assuming that your drive dog is set up correctly, the number 1 socket for the number 1 sparkplug wire should point approximately toward the number 1 spark plug. If the schematic is to be taken literally the numbers on the distributor cap should be rotated one space counter clockwise so that the 1 is where the 5 should be. Just as a sanity test, you should probably check to see where the rotor is when the number 1 cylinder is in the firing position (TDC with both valves closed). HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scott willis > Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 2:55 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram > > Anyone have this book? I have my tranny back in and I am trying to start > my > BN7 to no avail. Is spark plug 1 at the front of the engine in this > diagram or > at the firewall? Looks like front but I need to be 100% sure. > > Many thanks, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schauss at worldnet.att.net From ahpowered at hotmail.com Wed Mar 3 16:32:06 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 17:32:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram In-Reply-To: <20100303230857.4A20D187672@autox.team.net> References: , <20100303230857.4A20D187672@autox.team.net> Message-ID: > Makes sense. I was wondering why the rotor pointed down where as mine points toward the front of the motor toward cylinder one. This thing is just not firing. I have spark and fuel. I am pulling the choke mechanism on the carb completely shut, somewhat shut, wide open...I ran the pugs opposite and it tried to fire and I thought all was good. Now it again does nothing but turn over even with starting fluid. The plugs were a little wet but not soaked. Hmm > > Thanks. > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------- >> From: schauss at worldnet.att.net >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 18:08:34 -0500 >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram >> >> Scott, >> >> I have a different edition of this manual but I found figure 4.1 and it is >> misleading. Assuming that your drive dog is set up correctly, the number 1 >> socket for the number 1 sparkplug wire should point approximately toward the >> number 1 spark plug. If the schematic is to be taken literally the numbers >> on the distributor cap should be rotated one space counter clockwise so that >> the 1 is where the 5 should be. >> >> Just as a sanity test, you should probably check to see where the rotor is >> when the number 1 cylinder is in the firing position (TDC with both valves >> closed). >> >> HTH, >> Peter Schauss >> 1963 BJ7 >> 1980 MGB >> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- >>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scott willis >>> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 2:55 PM >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram >>> >>> Anyone have this book? I have my tranny back in and I am trying to start >>> my >>> BN7 to no avail. Is spark plug 1 at the front of the engine in this >>> diagram or >>> at the firewall? Looks like front but I need to be 100% sure. >>> >>> Many thanks, >>> >>> Scott Willis >>> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >>> 59 MGA >>> 66 E-Type FHC >>> >>> http://www.bgeuroclassics.org >>> BG Euro Classics Car Club President >>> Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 3 17:05:38 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 08:05:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott - #1 is the front of the motor facing the radiator. Look at page 21 in your haynes manual, note the position of the two woodruff (half moon) keys on the front of the crankshaft. On all Austin motors these keys are put at TDC for #1 cylinder. If you note these keys are in line with the first journal, not the 6th. This means #1 cylinder is at the front. I have always worked on my 3000, 100 and A90 accordingly. All my cars run smooth like glass. On 3/4/10, scott willis wrote: > Anyone have this book? I have my tranny back in and I am trying to start my > BN7 to no avail. Is spark plug 1 at the front of the engine in this diagram > or > at the firewall? Looks like front but I need to be 100% sure. > > Many thanks, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Mar 3 18:45:49 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2010 19:45:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: References: <829117.74411.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <402356.82400.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B8F10CD.9040502@justbrits.com> << Back in the late 50's, when VIR opened, I was told that white with blue stripe were the "US racing colors" as red was Italian color (cars racing for Italy in intl events), BRG for GB, etc. This thread leads me to believe that maybe that was not exactly right. >> Bob, I recall the same thing so one weekend at Marlboro I asked my Dad's dentist - Dr. Dick Thompson of Corvette renown & he said [basically ] BUNK. Ed From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Wed Mar 3 19:19:10 2010 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 20:19:10 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Stripes/Racing stripes?????????? In-Reply-To: <4B8F10CD.9040502@justbrits.com> References: <829117.74411.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com><402356.82400.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4B8F10CD.9040502@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Hi Folks, This topic is too good to just ignore, so I'm throwing in my $0.03 worth (inflation, plus tax). The FIA's colour schemes that were adopted/adapted over a few pints at a local pub were supposed to represent the driver's country colours. The commonly accepted colours can be found @ http://teamhealeytexas.com/Vintage%20FIA%20Colours/Vintage%20FIA%20Colours.ht m Racing stripes of course were for speed enhancement and improved cornering, but mainly were used to give everyone the impression that you were a serious race car driver and knew what you were doing. They also gave the driver something to look at, as a little Crosley Hotshot with a 1/3 of the displacement and horsepower went screaming past you at 50 mph. Cheers, Fred Team Healey Texas www.teamhealeytexas.com From ahpowered at hotmail.com Wed Mar 3 21:30:28 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 22:30:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] IT LIVES!!!! Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Ignition Diagram In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: YIPPEEEEE! I put the new wires into the 40 year old distributor cap and the Healey runs like a champ as before. I think it is time for a beer. Been over a year since I have heard that exhaust. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. From go2ghill at aol.com Wed Mar 3 22:19:38 2010 From: go2ghill at aol.com (go2ghill at aol.com) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 00:19:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Trouble Message-ID: <8CC89716BD6926A-4E70-8D40@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com> My rear studs have come loose in the hub and I need help on how I could repair. Replacement hubs don't seem to be available, so advice on an alternative approach is appreciated. Greg Hill '58 BN6 From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 3 23:38:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 14:38:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Trouble In-Reply-To: <8CC89716BD6926A-4E70-8D40@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC89716BD6926A-4E70-8D40@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Greg - If the studs are loose in the hub, even after tightening the nuts, there's not much you personally can do. You can, however, probably go to a machine shop and have them put in a soft steel sleeve which then can re-catch on the ridges on the stud. Otherwise you can get a used hub from all the usual suppliers like British Car Specialists or Cape. Incidentally, if you want a new unit, you can get them from AH spares. If you sit tight, the UK pound should take a bit of a dive over the next couple of weeks and it will be even cheaper in USD: http://www.ahspares.co.uk/products/productdetail.aspx?GUID=340c1546-923b-43a0-8f18-30470b417d7a Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Mar 4, 2010 at 1:19 PM, wrote: > My rear studs have come loose in the hub and I need help on how I could > repair. Replacement hubs don't seem to be available, so advice on an > alternative > approach is appreciated. > > Greg Hill > '58 BN6 From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Mar 4 05:14:59 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 04:14:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Trouble In-Reply-To: <8CC89716BD6926A-4E70-8D40@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC89716BD6926A-4E70-8D40@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Loctite makes just the product you need. Find some Loctite 640 http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Sleeve-Retainer-Strength-37424/dp/B0002KKTIGwhich used to be labeled as "Stud and bearing mount" This stuff is designed to fill small voids in assembly and glue the parts into place. Assuming proper assembly (clean and dry parts) it is a very permanent repair. Rick On Wed, Mar 3, 2010 at 9:19 PM, wrote: > My rear studs have come loose in the hub and I need help on how I could > repair. Replacement hubs don't seem to be available, so advice on an > alternative > approach is appreciated. > > Greg Hill > '58 BN6 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From charlieoc at comcast.net Thu Mar 4 05:22:59 2010 From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 07:22:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover Message-ID: <00ab01cabb95$6e0b5c80$4a221580$@net> I need a traveling cover for my 1960 BT7. I see on eBay that National Auto Restoration has one for $179.00. Are there other sources for the Travel cover that anyone knows about? Charlie O'Connors Havana, Florida From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Thu Mar 4 05:33:49 2010 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 23:33:49 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Racing Stripes Message-ID: <4B8FA8AD.4060305@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> When international motorsport recommenced after WW.11 the competition was between nations and this was as important as the drivers championship. Before the war Hitler had promoted German superiority through motor racing and this meant the Mercedes and Auto-Unions were supported by the state to defeat the rest of the world. It was agreed that teams would enter under their National Colours ( yes with an 'u' ) and so it was; US was white with a blie trim, either a colour band around the grille/air inlet or as others have said, Cunningham displayed the blue as a stripe. Thus we have British Racing Green, although Jaguar, Aston Martin and Healey all had their own shade. Australia was a British colony and so we had the basic car in B.R.G with a gold band - see Jack Brabham's Repco-Brabhams. The colour was as per the country of the entrant. That is why Stirling Moss was never able to win the championship as he always chose to stick with British made and entered cars. When Tony Vanderval ( of bearing fame) ditched the poorly organised B.R.M. ( British Racing Motors) he purchased a Ferrari, painted it green and raced until he developed the championship winning Vanwall. Then came US style advertising and................... say no more. From pyoas at yahoo.com Thu Mar 4 06:16:56 2010 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 05:16:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] IT LIVES!!!! Haynes manual 049 pg 87 fig. 4.1 Message-ID: <769207.39921.qm@web112501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> We are glad to hear you got your car fixed Scott!! Don't forget about us when you pony up to the bar for that beer. Cheers, Patrick YIPPEEEEE! I put the new wires into the 40 year old distributor cap and the Healey runs like a champ as before. I think it is time for a beer. Been over a year since I have heard that exhaust. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Cheers, Scott Willis From grday at btinternet.com Thu Mar 4 07:05:02 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 14:05:02 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre cleaning warning Message-ID: <3C2C370CE1B14D409A5209D4BB9DB310@user8634b3d69b> BlankOne of the messages that came into my e-letter box that may be worth glancing at.. According to the respected German safety and testing organisation, DEKRA, if a pressure washer nozzle is held too close to the sidewall of a tyre at high pressure, serious damage can result in as little as five seconds! Even tyres that appear to be unaffected after being exposed to a pressure washer may have microscopic perforations which can weaken the tyre sidewall and cause deflation, leading to a possible blow-out. Other factors, says mytyres.co.uk, that may cause deterioration or damage to tyres include some soaps and detergents. These can remove protective chemicals that are embedded in the sidewall  they can sometimes be identified visually on the tyre as brown watermarks resulting in a significant reduction in durability. Motorists considering using a pressure washer on their cars should adhere to the following tips: a.. Ideally, use a light to medium duty pressure washer (110 bar or less) b.. Keep the washer nozzle at least 20cm from the tyre surface c.. Always use a fan nozzle to clean tyres, rather than a circular nozzle d.. Avoid prolonged jet washing of any one area of the tyre e.. Avoid aiming the water jet at the join between the tyre and wheel rim Best wishes to all, Guy R Day [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Blank Bkgrd.gif] From bcrist at club-internet.fr Thu Mar 4 08:54:17 2010 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:54:17 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? Message-ID: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> Hi guys, I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as Healeydata.com is a reference. http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. There must be an older one somewhere. Bernard From steveg at abrazosdata.com Thu Mar 4 09:14:29 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 08:14:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Different_rear_tube_shock_design?= Message-ID: <20100304161429.2943.qmail@hoster902.com> On my gallery I've uploaded some pix of a clever tube shock design sent me several years ago off this list by a fellow named Hewlett, (I've lost track of him) who installed air shocks for trailer towing: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_rear_suspension -- Steve Gerow BN6 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Mar 4 09:28:05 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:28:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?radio?= Message-ID: <20100304162805.10364.qmail@server278.com> i quit listening to my radio a few years back because of all the static i was getting. the other day i decided to try to figure out what the problem was. the fm seems to come in fine when the motor is not running and ever the stronger am stations, but when motor running the am is almost useless and only the stronger fm stations (the country and religious stations mostly) come in without a lot of static. i have wire high tension leads and supressor type spark plugs, but no condensor on the generator(was on for a while but did not seem to help). anyone know what i need? hjim From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 4 09:36:38 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 08:36:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? In-Reply-To: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> References: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: This site is looking for a lot of info on our cars. There has been some concern with in AHCA that the registries are very careful with the info they are collecting and what is done with it. I also have heard that there was a problem with one of the registries in England several years ago. I would like to know WHO is running this registry and what assurance we have that it is not released to the wrong people. I have had a 100/M here in the shop that when the owner went to register it with the 100/M registry it turned out that a restorer had received a 100/M vin tag and Heritage certificate for a real 100/M and then proceded to build 3 of the same cars. One was sold to a guy in California at one of the large auctions. The other 2 were sold in Austrailia and New Zeland. All three cars tried to register with the 100/M registry and this got caught. So be careful who and how much info you give out on the net about your car. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Mar 4, 2010, at 7:54 AM, Bernard Cristalli wrote: > Hi guys, > > I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as > Healeydata.com is a reference. > http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 > > Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. > There must be an older one somewhere. > > Bernard > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Thu Mar 4 10:25:29 2010 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 09:25:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Rear Hub Trouble Message-ID: I agree. One of the threaded holes for the manifold studs in the head for an engine I was rebuilding was stripped. Had an old bottle of Loctite Stud & Bearing Mount. Squirted a bunch of it into the Head, screwed the stud in and waited 24 hours. It worked! Was able to tighten the nut down firmly! Saved the Head. John Snyder > > On Wed, Mar 3, 2010 at 9:19 PM, wrote: > >> My rear studs have come loose in the hub and I need help on how I could >> repair. Replacement hubs don't seem to be available, so advice on an >> alternative >> approach is appreciated. >> >> Greg Hill >> '58 BN6 From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Thu Mar 4 10:38:43 2010 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 09:38:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] radio In-Reply-To: <20100304162805.10364.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100304162805.10364.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342045F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> If this is a BJ8, change the wires to carbon core and the cap to TR6. Change the wires every two years, they are cheap. I don't know of good suppressor wire that will work nicely with the stock distributor caps, but maybe someone else does. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 8:28 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] radio i quit listening to my radio a few years back because of all the static i was getting. the other day i decided to try to figure out what the problem was. the fm seems to come in fine when the motor is not running and ever the stronger am stations, but when motor running the am is almost useless and only the stronger fm stations (the country and religious stations mostly) come in without a lot of static. i have wire high tension leads and supressor type spark plugs, but no condensor on the generator(was on for a while but did not seem to help). anyone know what i need? hjim From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Mar 4 10:51:50 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 12:51:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] healeydata.com, (was) RE: No earlier 3000 ? In-Reply-To: References: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: <004001cabbc3$5e3e79d0$1abb6d70$@rr.com> David, healeydata.com is owned by Roger Los. Roger created the original site austinhealey.com back in the '90s. It is what inspired me to become the BJ8 registrar. 100M cars and their registry are a bit unique (similar to 100S cars). Since the production quantity of the 100M cars was extremely limited and the numbers are all known, and since a valid factory 100M is considered more valuable than a standard Hundred, then there is some incentive on the part of unscrupulous people to forge them and on the part of the registry to be secretive about their details. For the other models, there is no such incentive. The healeydata.com site is populated with information voluntarily submitted by owners. I would assume if they had any concern about what would happen to the information then they would not have submitted it in the first place. It is a database of interesting information about the cars more than it is a registry. There is no danger of it being released, because it is already available on-line at the site to whomever wants to look at it. There are already a ton of BJ8s out there that have had their numbers scrambled, exchanged, or re-created at some time in the past. This was probably done not for profit so much as to be able to register and use a car that might not otherwise be useable. For most of these cars, the only way the misidentification will come to light now is if the owners submit their information to the registry. In the last year, I have been involved in correcting such number scrambling on three BJ8s. As a matter of fact, there is a BJ8 now on the UK version of eBay that is claiming a VIN number that still exists on its original car in Illinois. Unless the Illinois owner stumbled onto the eBay sale, there is no way anyone would ever recognize the conflict except the model registrar. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:37 AM To: Bernard Cristalli Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? This site is looking for a lot of info on our cars. From peter.svilans at rogers.com Thu Mar 4 11:05:55 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 13:05:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] radio Message-ID: <001201cabbc5$55df9d30$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> hjim, The Smiths Radiomobile installation manual for the Austin Healey says the following : Suppression- NOTE: It is important to keep all leads, i.e. capacitor and ignition leads, as short as possible and to scrape to bare metal each point at which an earth connection is made. A built-in resistor is incorporated in the distributor. 1. Fit a 1 mfd capacitor to the dynamo output terminal. Earth it to the dynamo fixing bolt. 2. Fit a 1 mfd capacitor to the SW terminal on the coil. Earth it to the coil mounting bolt. 3. Fit a 1 mfd capacitor to the petrol pump. Earth it to the pump mounting bolt. Additional suppression with Smiths model 230R 4. Fit the plug suppressors provided. Note: On some vehicles , where interference is troublesome, it may be necessary to disconnect from the coil the lead to the master switch. Alternatively this lead may be replaced by a screened lead, the screen of which should be earthed at both ends. Also the aerial is mounted as far as possible from the ignition side of the car, on the left front fender. PS. When I worked at cable TV years ago we used to have a van that drove around which detected high-resistance homemade cable splices where people tapped into the cable illegally. So solder joints properly and earth the shielding sleeves. Best regards Peter From rwil at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 4 11:30:54 2010 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 10:30:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] radio In-Reply-To: <001201cabbc5$55df9d30$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <001201cabbc5$55df9d30$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: side note: One easily available 'screened lead' is coaxial cable, as used for ham and CB radio antenna connections. Make sure you get the stuff with real wire braid on the outside, not just foil or you will have trouble making good earthed (grounded) connections. Coax comes in various sizes. The smallest should work fine for this use. -Roland On Thu, 4 Mar 2010 13:05:55 -0500, you wrote: ::Note: On some vehicles , where interference is troublesome, it may be ::necessary to disconnect from the coil the lead to the master switch. ::Alternatively this lead may be replaced by a screened lead, the screen of ::which should be earthed at both ends. From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Mar 4 12:23:44 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 14:23:44 EST Subject: [Healeys] Oldest 3000? Message-ID: <69cf6.4748c5d.38c162c0@aol.com> In a message dated 3/4/10 11:09:00 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as Healeydata.com is > a reference. > http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 > Pretty amazing. A few years ago I inspected HBT7L175, but I've since lost track of it and, given its condition and ownership, it might have been discarded by the grandchildren and gone to that great recycling yard in the sky. Keep in mind that the first number produced was HBT7L101 which places yours in the first 150 produced, so it could easily be the oldest surviving. Any contenders? Gary From bcrist at club-internet.fr Thu Mar 4 13:02:50 2010 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 21:02:50 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? Message-ID: <17806486.365621267732970110.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1120> Thanks Rich, I've already dropped an email to Bob Haskell but haven't got an answer, so far. B Rich C a C)crit : > David, et al, > > This is an excellent point and one that I am constantly aware of as the AHCA Hundred Registrar. The privacy of this information is of vital concern to us and as such we registrars all agree to and abide by strict privacy rules and will not divulge information about individual cars without permission from the owners. It's equally important to record the numbers of scrapped cars as well as healthy ones so these cars won't "reappear" later as counterfeit cars. I should also stress that all the numbers should be recorded including batch and body numbers too since we've seen quite a few cars being sold as all original, being comprised of "bitsa" this and that from other cars. > The numbers of scrapped Hundreds and factory M's we have recorded must be carefully protected from the unscrupulous. I've seen a number of cars with the same chassis numbers being recorded from different countries and with only sanctioned and recognized registries sharing this data, the bogus information pops up like a sore thumb. > > Bernard, The BN7 BT7 Registrar for your early BT7 is Bob Haskell. You should contact him to answer your question. His Email address is rchaskell at earthlink.net > > Rich Chrysler > Hundred Registrar > > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "David Nock" > Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:36 AM > To: "Bernard Cristalli" > Cc: "Healey List" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? > >> This site is looking for a lot of info on our cars. >> >> There has been some concern with in AHCA that the registries are very >> careful with the info they are collecting and what is done with it. I >> also have heard that there was a problem with one of the registries >> in England several years ago. >> >> I would like to know WHO is running this registry and what assurance >> we have that it is not released to the wrong people. >> >> I have had a 100/M here in the shop that when the owner went to >> register it with the 100/M registry it turned out that a restorer had >> received a 100/M vin tag and Heritage certificate for a real 100/M >> and then proceded to build 3 of the same cars. One was sold to a guy >> in California at one of the large auctions. The other 2 wereB sold in >> Austrailia and New Zeland.B All three cars tried to register with the >> 100/M registry and this got caught. >> >> So be careful who and how much info you give out on the net about >> your car. >> >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> Stockton Ca 95205 >> 209-948-8767 >> >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> . >> . >> >> On Mar 4, 2010, at 7:54 AM, Bernard Cristalli wrote: >> >>> Hi guys, >>> >>> I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as >>> Healeydata.com is a reference. >>> http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 >>> >>> Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. >>> There must be an older one somewhere. >>> >>> Bernard From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Mar 4 13:24:58 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 12:24:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] healey data re: Message-ID: <173126441003041224v25d26ca7ib5ac4c6359471556@mail.gmail.com> As support of the statement about vin# jumbles. In the 70s I worked for Austin Healey Enterprises in Reseda, CA. We parted out wrecks, and sold parts, and rebuilt cars. Moss was just starting out and these were just funky old sports cars. I bought mine for $500.00. We would cherry pick the best parts and build a car. We had a box of vin plates. We would grab one that was right for the series and screw it to the firewall. There was no interest in fraud, because we were not building fake 100s or M cars. we were putting Healeys back on the road. Some on this list accused me of fraud and other wrong doing, when I posted my BMHT info gleaned from my engine. I exhausted all avenues to try and figure out the body #. I now have an original VIN to go with my engine and will register my car as the correct model. No fraud, just reconciling engine and body with my registration. Many of you who complained could very likely have a car we built and tagged for registration. As a side note, even DMH, did not have an issue with what we were doing. he came by the place on a number of occasions. Fred Cohen had his 100s serviced there. Donald was just so pleased that his cars were still on the road and that people wanted them fixed up to enjoy. I was there when these conversations took place.. Thanks to you who wrote with support of my efforts and to you who keep the registries and usefull web sites going. If you are still reading: We have decided to remove all four fenders so we can paint the backside and the chassis underneath. We are refitting them and the doors and will remove all and send to the paint stripper in a couple of weeks. We are still on target for the Eugene, OR event in June as it's coming out party. cheers, BT7 6722 1960 -- I Erbs Portland, OR From jarowe at westnet.com.au Thu Mar 4 15:03:42 2010 From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 06:03:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? References: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> Hi Bernard and the list I have in my garage H BT7 L /112 built 11 - 19 March 1959. cheers from west oz John Rowe PS The first 3000 built, car BT7 101, is sitting in the Heritage Museum in Gaydon UK but now with a two seater body. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernard Cristalli" To: "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:54 PM Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? > Hi guys, > > I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as Healeydata.com is > a reference. > http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 > > Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. > There must be an older one somewhere. > > Bernard From satkinson7314 at charter.net Thu Mar 4 17:24:21 2010 From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 19:24:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? In-Reply-To: <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> References: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> Message-ID: <83B4241D2EA74AD49FEDB852D530A625@AtkinsonPC> I have HBT7L/181... 13-18 march 1959. Everything matches on the heritage cert (paint etc..) but every emblem is 100/6 not 3000 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 5:04 PM To: Bernard Cristalli; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? Hi Bernard and the list I have in my garage H BT7 L /112 built 11 - 19 March 1959. cheers from west oz John Rowe PS The first 3000 built, car BT7 101, is sitting in the Heritage Museum in Gaydon UK but now with a two seater body. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernard Cristalli" To: "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:54 PM Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? > Hi guys, > > I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as Healeydata.com is > a reference. > http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 > > Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. > There must be an older one somewhere. > > Bernard _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson7314 at charter.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Mar 4 18:06:01 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 09:06:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? In-Reply-To: <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> References: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> Message-ID: John - If you converted her to a right hooker, naughty naughty from the Concours committee I'm sure!! Alan PS. I converted my (new!) BJ8... '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Mar 5, 2010 at 6:03 AM, John Rowe wrote: > Hi Bernard and the list > > I have in my garage H BT7 L /112 built 11 - 19 March 1959. > > cheers from west oz > > John Rowe > > PS > > The first 3000 built, car BT7 101, is sitting in the Heritage Museum in > Gaydon UK but now with a two seater body. > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernard Cristalli" < > bcrist at club-internet.fr> > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:54 PM > Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? From nir6709 at aol.com Thu Mar 4 18:45:49 2010 From: nir6709 at aol.com (nir6709 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 20:45:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering columm bracket Message-ID: <8CC8A1CB75FEBED-322C-22DC@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> Hello, to all ,when I dismantled the steering components I took alot of pictures and made drawings,but for the life of me I cannot find the picture that shows where this bracket goes I've looked everywhere, Can somebody please supply a pic or tell me where the location is supposed to be, thanks Bob From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Thu Mar 4 19:17:19 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 02:17:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover In-Reply-To: <00ab01cabb95$6e0b5c80$4a221580$@net> References: <00ab01cabb95$6e0b5c80$4a221580$@net> Message-ID: Are you talking about a car cover that would be used on your car, when your car is being towed on an open trailer? Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: charlieoc at comcast.net > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 07:22:59 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover > > I need a traveling cover for my 1960 BT7. I see on eBay that National Auto > Restoration has one for $179.00. Are there other sources for the Travel > cover that anyone knows about? > > > > Charlie O'Connors > > Havana, Florida > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Thu Mar 4 19:24:07 2010 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 21:24:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Traveling Cover In-Reply-To: <00ab01cabb95$6e0b5c80$4a221580$@net> References: <00ab01cabb95$6e0b5c80$4a221580$@net> Message-ID: A number of us took our Healeys to Scotland in 2008 and used "portable garages" made by Bob Yule at Autofarm http://www.autofarm.net Bob was with us to be sure they did not leak. They were tested almost every day! Laurie Wilford > From: charlieoc at comcast.net > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 07:22:59 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover > > I need a traveling cover for my 1960 BT7. I see on eBay that National Auto > Restoration has one for $179.00. Are there other sources for the Travel > cover that anyone knows about? > > > > Charlie O'Connors > > Havana, Florida > _________________________________________________________________ Check your Hotmail from your phone. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9712957 From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Mar 4 20:13:50 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 19:13:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? Message-ID: <4b9076ef.1701d00a.1b55.12ab@mx.google.com> They had to use up the 100-6 badges, then they put the 3000 on I Erbs sent from my PDA -----Original Message----- From: Simon & Christine Atkinson Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 4:24 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? I have HBT7L/181... 13-18 march 1959. Everything matches on the heritage cert (paint etc..) but every emblem is 100/6 not 3000 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 5:04 PM To: Bernard Cristalli; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? Hi Bernard and the list I have in my garage H BT7 L /112 built 11 - 19 March 1959. cheers from west oz John Rowe PS The first 3000 built, car BT7 101, is sitting in the Heritage Museum in Gaydon UK but now with a two seater body. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernard Cristalli" To: "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:54 PM Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? > Hi guys, > > I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as Healeydata.com is > a reference. > http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 > > Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. > There must be an older one somewhere. > > Bernard _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson7314 at charter.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 4 20:56:28 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 19:56:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] media blasting material Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100304195425.01fd3c38@pop.att.yahoo.com> Hello, I checked the archives but did not find out much about the type of media people are using to clean old paint from Healey parts. What is best; soda, glass or plastic beads, walnut shells or aluminum oxide? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Thu Mar 4 21:27:45 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 15:27:45 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] media blasting material In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100304195425.01fd3c38@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100304195425.01fd3c38@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE05F@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day John I have just starting using an abrasive cabinet and was recommended to use crushed garnet. I found it to work very well. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: Friday, 5 March 2010 2:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] media blasting material Hello, I checked the archives but did not find out much about the type of media people are using to clean old paint from Healey parts. What is best; soda, glass or plastic beads, walnut shells or aluminum oxide? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From satkinson7314 at charter.net Thu Mar 4 21:44:43 2010 From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 23:44:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? In-Reply-To: <4b9076ef.1701d00a.1b55.12ab@mx.google.com> References: <4b9076ef.1701d00a.1b55.12ab@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <158AFC08751346C9B847E6086C6F8D0A@AtkinsonPC> Sounds like something Toyota would do ;-) -----Original Message----- From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 10:14 PM To: Simon & Christine Atkinson; 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? They had to use up the 100-6 badges, then they put the 3000 on I Erbs sent from my PDA -----Original Message----- From: Simon & Christine Atkinson Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 4:24 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? I have HBT7L/181... 13-18 march 1959. Everything matches on the heritage cert (paint etc..) but every emblem is 100/6 not 3000 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 5:04 PM To: Bernard Cristalli; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? Hi Bernard and the list I have in my garage H BT7 L /112 built 11 - 19 March 1959. cheers from west oz John Rowe PS The first 3000 built, car BT7 101, is sitting in the Heritage Museum in Gaydon UK but now with a two seater body. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernard Cristalli" To: "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:54 PM Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? > Hi guys, > > I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as Healeydata.com is > a reference. > http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 > > Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. > There must be an older one somewhere. > > Bernard _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson7314 at charter.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From satkinson7314 at charter.net Thu Mar 4 21:47:09 2010 From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 23:47:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] media blasting material In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100304195425.01fd3c38@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100304195425.01fd3c38@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <729437CCA7404220BD67913FABAAA141@AtkinsonPC> Depends upon the parts... I used glass beads for most steel items and walnut shells for delicate stuff. Avoid buying on line... shipping will kill you due to weight. Go to your local Grainger store they have stock -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 10:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] media blasting material Hello, I checked the archives but did not find out much about the type of media people are using to clean old paint from Healey parts. What is best; soda, glass or plastic beads, walnut shells or aluminum oxide? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson7314 at charter.net From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Mar 4 23:11:48 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 01:11:48 EST Subject: [Healeys] Badges on early "3000s" Message-ID: <8ce65.2ebb30f7.38c1faa4@aol.com> In a message dated 3/4/10 9:11:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > I have HBT7L/181... 13-18 march 1959. > Everything matches on the heritage cert (paint etc..) but every emblem is > 100/6 not 3000 > It wasn't just a matter of badging. Based on the artifacts we've found, it may be that the marketing folks didn't get around to deciding on the "3000" name until a few months after production started up. For example, I have a loose-leaf parts manual where the binder says "100-6 BN7-BT7," but the pages inside say, in the same script in the same layout, "3000 BN7-BT7" -- Since there would have been more lead time in preparing the manual covers than the pages, it looks as if the car went into production intended to be just an improved version of the 100-6. In any case, the earliest 150 or so of the BN/BT7s were badges as 100-6s, but there doesn't seem to be any consistent point of change (for example, the horn buttons on most early 3000s are actually 100-6 horn buttons, painted over on the inside to cover up the 100-6. So there you are. Cheers gary From bcrist at club-internet.fr Fri Mar 5 00:41:29 2010 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 08:41:29 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? In-Reply-To: <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> References: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> Message-ID: <4B90B5A9.1060403@club-internet.fr> The 12th LHD then. Great to know. B John Rowe a icrit : > > Hi Bernard and the list > > I have in my garage H BT7 L /112 built 11 - 19 March 1959. > > cheers from west oz > > John Rowe > > PS > > The first 3000 built, car BT7 101, is sitting in the Heritage Museum > in Gaydon UK but now with a two seater body. > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernard Cristalli" > > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:54 PM > Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? > > >> Hi guys, >> >> I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as Healeydata.com is >> a reference. >> http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 >> >> Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. >> There must be an older one somewhere. >> >> Bernard > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com From bcrist at club-internet.fr Fri Mar 5 01:41:29 2010 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 09:41:29 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? In-Reply-To: <83B4241D2EA74AD49FEDB852D530A625@AtkinsonPC> References: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> <83B4241D2EA74AD49FEDB852D530A625@AtkinsonPC> Message-ID: <4B90C3B9.4050902@club-internet.fr> Funny, mine too is badged as a 100/6. I thought the grill had been changed, but perhaps it is a caracteristic of the early 3000s. What do the other think? B Simon & Christine Atkinson a icrit : > I have HBT7L/181... 13-18 march 1959. > Everything matches on the heritage cert (paint etc..) but every emblem is > 100/6 not 3000 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of John Rowe > Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 5:04 PM > To: Bernard Cristalli; Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? > > Hi Bernard and the list > > I have in my garage H BT7 L /112 built 11 - 19 March 1959. > > cheers from west oz > > John Rowe > > PS > > The first 3000 built, car BT7 101, is sitting in the Heritage Museum in > Gaydon UK but now with a two seater body. > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bernard Cristalli" > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 11:54 PM > Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? > > > >> Hi guys, >> >> I appear to have the oldest surviving 3000, as far as Healeydata.com is >> a reference. >> http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBT7L244 >> >> Built date recorded on the Heritage Certificate: april 1st 1959. >> There must be an older one somewhere. >> >> Bernard >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson7314 at charter.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Mar 5 03:43:08 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 11:43:08 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? Message-ID: Hello, Anyone has any positive/negative experiences with this tire? Best, Tadek From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Mar 5 04:11:16 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 22:11:16 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <72A1798D58D74CAF914CC04A3A75765D@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Tadek I ran Michelin XAS 165 x 15 tyres for years for the BN1 that I owned and though they were (and still think so) the best tyres I have ever used. It was a road car but I was active in road racing at the time and the XAS were wonderful with just the right amount of grip and perfect controllability for power slides and the like. I would still be using them now if they were available at a reasonable cost. Great tyre for Austin-Healeys. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Friday, 5 March 2010 9:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? Hello, Anyone has any positive/negative experiences with this tire? Best, Tadek From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Mar 5 04:25:59 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 03:25:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <291012.10843.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Tadek, I've never had them on my big Healey, but have run the XAS on a few cars in the past and presently have them on my Bugeye Sprite. I've always been very happy with them. They are predictable, ride well and have excellent tread wear, even when autocrossed. They provide a good amount of grip and were pretty much state of the art for performance tires when they were first introduced, circa 1970. Obviusly, tire technology has increased quite a bit since then so they won't have the ultimate performance of today's tires, but I wouldn''t hesitate to put them on a road going Healey, Happy Healeying Rick Neville Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 3/5/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Subject: [Healeys] 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, March 5, 2010, 5:43 AM Hello, Anyone has any positive/negative experiences with this tire? Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From thehealeyguy at gmail.com Fri Mar 5 04:37:51 2010 From: thehealeyguy at gmail.com (Bob Abbott) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 06:37:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] door-scuttle seal Message-ID: <13df1a4f1003050337x3a816689yb71630d4285bd213@mail.gmail.com> I purchased a door-scuttle seal to use on a BT7 restoration. Now I don't know how to orient it into position or what type of screws to use to attach them. Can anyone send a picture/diagram/explaination of how these pieces fit to the car. TIA, Bob From grday at btinternet.com Fri Mar 5 05:20:38 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 12:20:38 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? References: Message-ID: <7B395911E8EF4B058BA2963AC39EBEC8@user8634b3d69b> Tadeusz, The XAS tyre is one of the original non-symmetrical tyres and the size you mention, 180R15, is no longer made. I'm not sure if its replacement 180HR15 is still done other than for the specialist trade. Be very wary of the age of the tyre if you have been offered some as it could well be some 25+ years old. Check the 4 figure number impressed a recessed panel and note the shape of the panel - an oblong, a square, a diamond or oblong with rounded ends etc. This is a date code and the shape of the surrounding panel is a decade indicator. You may find it as a 3 figure number which is a week and last year number e.g. 067 is the 6th week (early February of either 1957, 1967, 1977 1987 etc. In those days it was not a requirement to date the tyres as openly as they currently do and different manufacturing factories did different things. If it is a 4 figure number e.g. 3486 it is the 34th week (mid July ) of 1986 and if the memory is working it should be in an oblong shape with half circle rounded ends. It should be a good tyre to use on a Healey if recently made but if it older than 5 years or so I wouldn't really want it if it were to be driven on in a spirited fashion. Others may give a different cut off age and you cannot disagree with that as the storage conditions account for a lot of unseen degradation of the tyre rubber. If all you are going to do with it is 'potter around' it may be ok. If older and if it is a show car and not a driver it would useable (but perhaps not concurs). If there is any sign of cracking or dark thin lines on the sidewalls around the toe (where it meets the rim) or tread - walk away. Michelins are known for longevity and good wear but there is the trade off with grip and on this tyre that is counterbalanced a little with the asymmetrical tread pattern. Regards to all, Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 10:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? > Hello, > > Anyone has any positive/negative experiences with this tire? > > Best, Tadek > _______________________________________________ From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 5 05:30:11 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 07:30:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] door-scuttle seal References: <13df1a4f1003050337x3a816689yb71630d4285bd213@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001801cabc5f$99d616a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> They used a special split rivet and washer. You can pick split rivets up at an Ace hardware but they have a shinny surface where the original appear to be copper. The archives should have the install instructions posted somewhere. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Abbott" To: Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 6:37 AM Subject: [Healeys] door-scuttle seal >I purchased a door-scuttle seal to use on a BT7 restoration. Now I don't > know how to orient it into position or what type of screws to use to > attach > them. Can anyone send a picture/diagram/explaination of how these pieces > fit > to the car. > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From wsthompson at thicko.com Fri Mar 5 06:12:58 2010 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 07:12:58 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? In-Reply-To: <4B90B5A9.1060403@club-internet.fr> References: <4B8FD7A9.1060301@club-internet.fr> <692424B6A9734866BBE4C3B59FFF09CC@DadDell> <4B90B5A9.1060403@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: <002401cabc65$957fa610$c07ef230$@com> What's the last BN6 number? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bernard Cristalli Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 1:41 AM To: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 ? The 12th LHD then. Great to know. B John Rowe a icrit : > > Hi Bernard and the list > > I have in my garage H BT7 L /112 built 11 - 19 March 1959. > > cheers from west oz > > John Rowe > > PS > > The first 3000 built, car BT7 101, is sitting in the Heritage Museum > in Gaydon UK but now with a two seater body. From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Mar 5 06:34:33 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 14:34:33 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? In-Reply-To: <7B395911E8EF4B058BA2963AC39EBEC8@user8634b3d69b> References: <7B395911E8EF4B058BA2963AC39EBEC8@user8634b3d69b> Message-ID: Hello all, Just to let you know, the XAS is in production. The classic Michelin, (who produces those tyres website) is here: http://tinyurl.com/ykrhzjn You can also check the current availability in th excel file available for download.. The 180 HR 15 XAS is recommended by Longstone Tyres as a size more close to the original size.. I was wondering weather anyone mounted the 180R15 size on a healey (100 or 3000). We think of purchasing them here with a another Healey fan. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Mar 5 07:26:29 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 09:26:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] door-scuttle seal In-Reply-To: <13df1a4f1003050337x3a816689yb71630d4285bd213@mail.gmail.com> References: <13df1a4f1003050337x3a816689yb71630d4285bd213@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <48F3FA43108B4082AFC779937FAD4690@LIFEBOOK> Hi Bob, I have it posted on John Sim's web site, with pictures. http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Scuttle%20Seal%20Installation.pdf Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Abbott" Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 6:37 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] door-scuttle seal > I purchased a door-scuttle seal to use on a BT7 restoration. Now I don't > know how to orient it into position or what type of screws to use to > attach > them. Can anyone send a picture/diagram/explaination of how these pieces > fit > to the car. > TIA, > Bob From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Mar 5 07:28:04 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 09:28:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering columm bracket In-Reply-To: <8CC8A1CB75FEBED-322C-22DC@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC8A1CB75FEBED-322C-22DC@webmail-m084.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Which bracket of what series? Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 8:45 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Steering columm bracket > Hello, to all ,when I dismantled the steering components I took alot of > pictures and made drawings,but for the life of me I cannot find the > picture > that shows where this bracket goes I've looked everywhere, Can somebody > please > supply a pic or tell me where the location is supposed to be, thanks Bob > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Mar 5 08:02:22 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 15:02:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Garage door idea - "no car specific content" Message-ID: This looks like a cool idea for those who want to be able to take advantage of extra garage height. http://www.garador.ca/ I can't say that I like the look of it, but it does seem functional. From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 5 09:40:19 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 10:40:19 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Garage door idea - "no car specific content" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002401cabc82$8b540470$a1fc0d50$@net> Robert, This is simply an overhead coiling door, used quite often on commercial buildings where higher quality is desired and/or higher wind loads are encountered. Since the slats are typically 1-1/4 inch in height, weather-stripping at each joint is important both for noise and air infiltration. They are available in insulated and non-insulated; steel, stainless steel, or aluminum; and manual push-up, chain hoist, crank operated, or electric. There are at least a dozen manufacturers of such doors. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 9:02 AM To: Spridgets; Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Garage door idea - "no car specific content" This looks like a cool idea for those who want to be able to take advantage of extra garage height. http://www.garador.ca/ I can't say that I like the look of it, but it does seem functional. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Fri Mar 5 10:49:46 2010 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 12:49:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover In-Reply-To: References: <00ab01cabb95$6e0b5c80$4a221580$@net> Message-ID: <001501cabc8c$3f499270$bddcb750$@com> I would not recommend placing any cloth material cover over a car that would be subject to wind....The material will abrade your paint...(I've got a worn spot that went right through to the steel on my trunk lid from one such product...) -skip- -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 9:17 PM To: charlieoc at comcast.net; healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Traveling Cover Are you talking about a car cover that would be used on your car, when your car is being towed on an open trailer? Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: charlieoc at comcast.net > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 07:22:59 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover > > I need a traveling cover for my 1960 BT7. I see on eBay that National Auto > Restoration has one for $179.00. Are there other sources for the Travel > cover that anyone knows about? > > > > Charlie O'Connors > > Havana, Florida > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Fri Mar 5 11:26:24 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 13:26:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover In-Reply-To: <001501cabc8c$3f499270$bddcb750$@com> References: <00ab01cabb95$6e0b5c80$4a221580$@net> <001501cabc8c$3f499270$bddcb750$@com> Message-ID: <098826BB-6264-4FF8-A90D-608F51C3062E@gmail.com> I think we're getting off the original product. The Nationwide Traveling Cover goes over just the top and covers just the windshield, top, rear window and side windows. Snaps to tonneau fasteners. It is not a car cover. Keeps people from seeing inside when the car is parked. They are a great product for traveling and well made. Have them on 2 cars. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On Mar 5, 2010, at 12:49 PM, Skip Saunders wrote: > I would not recommend placing any cloth material cover over a car that would > be subject to wind....The material will abrade your paint...(I've got a worn > spot that went right through to the steel on my trunk lid from one such > product...) > > -skip- > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of richard mayor > Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 9:17 PM > To: charlieoc at comcast.net; healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Traveling Cover > > Are you talking about a car cover that would be used on your car, when your > car is being towed on an open trailer? > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > >> From: charlieoc at comcast.net >> To: Healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 07:22:59 -0500 >> Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover >> >> I need a traveling cover for my 1960 BT7. I see on eBay that National > Auto >> Restoration has one for $179.00. Are there other sources for the Travel >> cover that anyone knows about? >> >> >> >> Charlie O'Connors >> >> Havana, Florida >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From willig at wtnet.de Fri Mar 5 12:12:19 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 20:12:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Distributor -Help needed Message-ID: <001401cabc97$c7175880$55460980$@de> Some time ago I dismantled my BN2 distributor to clean and inspect it thoroughly. During the disassembly I made sketches of the position of the weights, springs etc.. Stupid me! I lost the notes.. Can anyone help me with a close-up picture of a N2 distributor, base plate removed, so I can see how all the parts are assembled? Please help Thomas Willig From pennell at cox.net Fri Mar 5 14:49:31 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 16:49:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100305164932.KH2I0.634805.imail@eastrmwml33> OK Tadeusz, for those of us who are linguistically challenged what does verfugbar mean? Keith ---- Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > Just to let you know, the XAS is in production. The classic Michelin, (who produces those tyres website) is here: > http://tinyurl.com/ykrhzjn > You can also check the current availability in th excel file available for download.. > The 180 HR 15 XAS is recommended by Longstone Tyres as a size more close to the original size.. > > I was wondering weather anyone mounted the 180R15 size on a healey (100 or 3000). We think of purchasing them here with a another Healey fan. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Fri Mar 5 15:25:04 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 22:25:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Badges on early "3000s" In-Reply-To: <8ce65.2ebb30f7.38c1faa4@aol.com> References: <8ce65.2ebb30f7.38c1faa4@aol.com> Message-ID: When I got my BN7 #466 in 1977 it had a 100-6 bonnet with the center ridge. I always wondered if it was the original bonnet. Anyone know when the factory used up the last of the center ridge bonnets? Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: Editorgary at aol.com > Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 01:11:48 -0500 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Badges on early "3000s" > > In a message dated 3/4/10 9:11:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > > > > > I have HBT7L/181... 13-18 march 1959. > > Everything matches on the heritage cert (paint etc..) but every emblem is > > 100/6 not 3000 > > > > It wasn't just a matter of badging. Based on the artifacts we've found, it > may be that the marketing folks didn't get around to deciding on the "3000" > name until a few months after production started up. For example, I have a > loose-leaf parts manual where the binder says "100-6 BN7-BT7," but the pages > inside say, in the same script in the same layout, "3000 BN7-BT7" -- Since > there would have been more lead time in preparing the manual covers than the > pages, it looks as if the car went into production intended to be just an > improved version of the 100-6. > In any case, the earliest 150 or so of the BN/BT7s were badges as 100-6s, > but there doesn't seem to be any consistent point of change (for example, the > horn buttons on most early 3000s are actually 100-6 horn buttons, painted > over on the inside to cover up the 100-6. > So there you are. > Cheers > gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/ From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Mar 5 15:28:14 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 23:28:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? In-Reply-To: <20100305164932.KH2I0.634805.imail@eastrmwml33> Message-ID: <83AE935D9576419B94D805FEBA3D8F87@tm> Well, Switch to the English tab - 'available' ;-) -----Original Message----- From: pennell at cox.net [mailto:pennell at cox.net] Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 10:50 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; Guy R Day Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] ODP: Re: 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? OK Tadeusz, for those of us who are linguistically challenged what does verfugbar mean? Keith ---- Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > Just to let you know, the XAS is in production. The classic Michelin, (who produces those tyres website) is here: > http://tinyurl.com/ykrhzjn > You can also check the current availability in th excel file available for download.. From nir6709 at aol.com Fri Mar 5 16:01:51 2010 From: nir6709 at aol.com (nir6709 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 18:01:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] steering columm bracket Message-ID: <8CC8ACEFA231F71-60E4-4AA7@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com> I'm sorry I forgot to mention it is a 1960 BT7 lhd = From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Fri Mar 5 16:26:07 2010 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 15:26:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Chrome "Nut" Message-ID: <9E7AA9D356F44F71B3D50DB3E0161E13@FRED> I need one of the round chrome "nuts" that fasten the Fresh Air Cable to the Heater Control Panel on a BN7. Moss and Victoria British don't carry it. I asked British Car Specialists if they had a good used one, and apparently they don't. Does anyone out there have a good one that they would sell me? John Snyder 1959 BN7 1960 BT7 1961 BN7 MK2 1962 BT7 MK2 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Mar 5 16:28:31 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 18:28:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Badges on early "3000s" In-Reply-To: References: <8ce65.2ebb30f7.38c1faa4@aol.com> Message-ID: Richard, They apparently found a few more batches of the centre creased bonnets well into the early 3000 production. I doubt if anything was officially recorded as these had the same part number. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "richard mayor" Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 5:25 PM To: ; "healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Badges on early "3000s" > When I got my BN7 #466 in 1977 it had a 100-6 bonnet with the center > ridge. I > always wondered if it was the original bonnet. Anyone know when the > factory > used up the last of the center ridge bonnets? > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon From Editorgary at aol.com Fri Mar 5 16:30:31 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 18:30:31 EST Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 Bonnet Message-ID: <2d151.17a0b241.38c2ee17@aol.com> In a message dated 3/5/10 2:25:39 PM, mayorrichard at hotmail.com writes: > When I got my BN7 #466 in 1977 it had a 100-6 bonnet with the center > ridge. I always wondered if it was the original bonnet. Anyone know when the > factory used up the last of the center ridge bonnets? > > Richard Mayor > I don't think anyone is exactly sure when they stopped installing the ridged bonnets, though we do know for sure that the use of the ridged bonnets did overlap the later flat ones (it has to do with the reinforcements in the six-cylinder hood, and where the prop rod was installed but it's too long a story for here.) However, there's no recorded instance of a ridged bonnet being installed on a BN7 or BT7 at the factory. Best likelihood is that you've got a replacement hood, either sourced from a 100-6 or possibly a spare the the dealer installed to repair an early accident (maybe even an accident in shipping, so even the original owner might have received it that way from the dealer). Cheers Gary From nir6709 at aol.com Fri Mar 5 18:03:09 2010 From: nir6709 at aol.com (nir6709 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 20:03:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] steering columm support bracket Message-ID: <8CC8ADFEBCB381F-3BA8-401E@webmail-m036.sysops.aol.com> I'm sorry, my brain is going soft, hectic week at work.What I mean to say there is a single bracket 5/8' wide 1/8" thick about 11" long with each end bent in the same direction almost to a 90 degree angle and has a 5/16" hole at each end.This for a 60 BT7 Lhd .thanks Bob From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net Fri Mar 5 18:28:53 2010 From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7) Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2010 19:28:53 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: 180R15 Michelin XAS on Austin Healey - experiences? In-Reply-To: <83AE935D9576419B94D805FEBA3D8F87@tm> References: <83AE935D9576419B94D805FEBA3D8F87@tm> Message-ID: <4B91AFD5.6000902@comcast.net> Tadek..... << Switch to the English tab - 'available' >> Keith must be using one of the CRA**Y MS products to read is mail because the word "verfugbar" was NOT in my received List Mail from you !!!! From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Fri Mar 5 22:59:56 2010 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins ) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 05:59:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 Bonnet Message-ID: My BN7 440 does not have a ridged bonnet. In the spare parts there is a 100-6 horn button however. Richard of KY ------Original Message------ From: Editorgary at aol.com To: mayorrichard at hotmail.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 Bonnet Sent: Mar 5, 2010 17:30 In a message dated 3/5/10 2:25:39 PM, mayorrichard at hotmail.com writes: > When I got my BN7 #466 in 1977 it had a 100-6 bonnet with the center > ridge. I always wondered if it was the original bonnet. Anyone know when the > factory used up the last of the center ridge bonnets? > > Richard Mayor > I don't think anyone is exactly sure when they stopped installing the ridged bonnets, though we do know for sure that the use of the ridged bonnets did overlap the later flat ones (it has to do with the reinforcements in the six-cylinder hood, and where the prop rod was installed but it's too long a story for here.) However, there's no recorded instance of a ridged bonnet being installed on a BN7 or BT7 at the factory. Best likelihood is that you've got a replacement hood, either sourced from a 100-6 or possibly a spare the the dealer installed to repair an early accident (maybe even an accident in shipping, so even the original owner might have received it that way from the dealer). Cheers Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Mar 5 23:04:15 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 06:04:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] steering columm support bracket In-Reply-To: <8CC8ADFEBCB381F-3BA8-401E@webmail-m036.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC8ADFEBCB381F-3BA8-401E@webmail-m036.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Bob: I think the item you are referring to is a support bracket that goes to the left of your steering wheel bracket. It attach to the outside of the steering column bracket using the same bolt that holds the steering collar to the bracket on one end and the other end is attached to the driver side chassis above the kick panel held by one of the windshield post bolt. Jean Caron > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 20:03:09 -0500 > From: nir6709 at aol.com > Subject: [Healeys] steering columm support bracket > > I'm sorry, my brain is going soft, hectic week at work.What I mean to say > there is a single bracket 5/8' wide 1/8" thick about 11" long with each end > bent in the same direction almost to a 90 degree angle and has a 5/16" hole at > each end.This for a 60 BT7 Lhd .thanks Bob > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Take your contacts everywhere http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9712959 From bcrist at club-internet.fr Sat Mar 6 04:56:09 2010 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 12:56:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Badges on early "3000s" In-Reply-To: References: <8ce65.2ebb30f7.38c1faa4@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B9242D9.1040605@club-internet.fr> Richard, When was your car built? Bernard BT7 244 richard mayor a icrit : > When I got my BN7 #466 in 1977 it had a 100-6 bonnet with the center ridge. I > always wondered if it was the original bonnet. Anyone know when the factory > used up the last of the center ridge bonnets? > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > > >> From: Editorgary at aol.com >> Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 01:11:48 -0500 >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Badges on early "3000s" >> >> In a message dated 3/4/10 9:11:23 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net >> writes: >> >> >> >>> I have HBT7L/181... 13-18 march 1959. >>> Everything matches on the heritage cert (paint etc..) but every emblem is >>> 100/6 not 3000 >>> >>> >> It wasn't just a matter of badging. Based on the artifacts we've found, it >> may be that the marketing folks didn't get around to deciding on the "3000" >> name until a few months after production started up. For example, I have a >> loose-leaf parts manual where the binder says "100-6 BN7-BT7," but the pages >> inside say, in the same script in the same layout, "3000 BN7-BT7" -- Since >> there would have been more lead time in preparing the manual covers than the >> pages, it looks as if the car went into production intended to be just an >> improved version of the 100-6. >> In any case, the earliest 150 or so of the BN/BT7s were badges as 100-6s, >> but there doesn't seem to be any consistent point of change (for example, >> > the > >> horn buttons on most early 3000s are actually 100-6 horn buttons, painted >> over on the inside to cover up the 100-6. >> So there you are. >> Cheers >> gary >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com From bighealey at charter.net Sat Mar 6 07:43:37 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 06:43:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Distributor -Help needed In-Reply-To: <001401cabc97$c7175880$55460980$@de> Message-ID: <3467CDC46EEC4EAD9955A64FEE3103E3@TRACY> Try Jeff he will know http://www.advanceddistributors.com/ Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of T+ B Willig Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 11:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Distributor -Help needed Some time ago I dismantled my BN2 distributor to clean and inspect it thoroughly. During the disassembly I made sketches of the position of the weights, springs etc.. Stupid me! I lost the notes.. Can anyone help me with a close-up picture of a N2 distributor, base plate removed, so I can see how all the parts are assembled? Please help Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Mar 6 07:54:35 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 09:54:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] '61 Tricarb for sale Message-ID: <000901cabd3c$f0786570$d1693050$@rr.com> Hello, Healeyphiles - I just heard from a former long-time list member who is wanting to sell his Tricarb ASAP. The car needs total restoration, has some frame rust damage, needs outriggers, etc. He's asking around $5K. He can provide photos but does not have a computer so would have to mail copies. Anyone who is interested, please let me know and I'll provide a telephone number. Car is located in Lakewood, New Jersey. Thanks very much, Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Sat Mar 6 09:25:09 2010 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 08:25:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Distributor -Help needed In-Reply-To: <001401cabc97$c7175880$55460980$@de> Message-ID: <977914.23929.qm@web110205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi Thomas, I can snap a couple pics this morning of my dist (BN2) rebuild by Jeff Schlemmer. Let me know if you still need this. cheers, Bert --- On Fri, 3/5/10, T+ B Willig wrote: > From: T+ B Willig > Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Distributor -Help needed > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Friday, March 5, 2010, 8:12 PM > Some time ago I dismantled my BN2 > distributor to clean and inspect it > thoroughly. During the disassembly I made sketches of the > position of the > weights, springs etc.. Stupid me! I lost the notes.. > > > > Can anyone help me with a close-up picture of a N2 > distributor, base plate > removed, so I can see how all the parts are assembled? > > > > Please help > > > > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com From rnmgracer at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 6 10:53:36 2010 From: rnmgracer at sbcglobal.net (RN MG Racer) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 09:53:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] I have new carpet black for Bj8 x sale $195.00 plus shipping Message-ID: <329665.95108.qm@web180015.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Rey navarro 1708 997 7380 Sent from my iPhone From PWSOP at aol.com Sat Mar 6 12:09:06 2010 From: PWSOP at aol.com (PWSOP at aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 14:09:06 EST Subject: [Healeys] I have new carpet black for Bj8 x sale $195.00 plus shipping Message-ID: <55269.648cc411.38c40252@aol.com> Please remove me from this email list. From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Mar 6 13:07:14 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 15:07:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] '98 Conclave Grille Badge Message-ID: <20100306.120745.994.28283@mailpop01.dca.untd.com> I have an NOS Conclave '98 grille badge, celebrating Donald M. Healey 1898 - 1988. If interested please contact me off the list. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210 From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Mar 6 13:13:10 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 12:13:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] I have new carpet black for Bj8 x sale $195.00 plus shipping In-Reply-To: <55269.648cc411.38c40252@aol.com> References: <55269.648cc411.38c40252@aol.com> Message-ID: <5caeedb51003061213w33056465ob2d377bc2a8c9a6@mail.gmail.com> Please read down 8 lines and remove yourself On Sat, Mar 6, 2010 at 11:09 AM, wrote: > Please remove me from this email list. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From alexmm at roadrunner.com Sat Mar 6 14:12:51 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 16:12:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spring drive Message-ID: <8AF565507A844D15A6350EEB3840F2D4@atc0f226cd3237> The temperature was in the high 50s here in southern Maine today, so out came the wrenches. We installed the battery, pulled the sparking plugs and injected Marvel Mystery oil into the cylinders, gapped and reinstalled the plugs. The ol' Blue Mainie fired right up, so off I went for a five mile drive. Ah, Spring is right around the corner. We have to be on the watch for Old Man Winter in these parts, but it sure was good to hear the exhaust note and see that everything still works. == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Mar 6 16:16:42 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 15:16:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spring drive In-Reply-To: <8AF565507A844D15A6350EEB3840F2D4@atc0f226cd3237> References: <8AF565507A844D15A6350EEB3840F2D4@atc0f226cd3237> Message-ID: <173126441003061516g45ff0835j735151fdf9bb159c@mail.gmail.com> thanks for the post card. Its 60 degrees and sunny outside. My beast is undergoing restoration..... Summer will be enjoyable.... On Sat, Mar 6, 2010 at 1:12 PM, Alex wrote: > The temperature was in the high 50s here in southern Maine today, so out > came the wrenches. > > We installed the battery, pulled the sparking plugs and injected Marvel > Mystery oil into the cylinders, gapped and reinstalled the plugs. The ol' > Blue Mainie fired right up, so off I went for a five mile drive. Ah, Spring > is right around the corner. We have to be on the watch for Old Man Winter > in > these parts, but it sure was good to hear the exhaust note and see that > everything still works. > > == Alex in Maine > "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 > "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 > Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, > 1965 MG Midget > http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > > > [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried > to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send > plain text.] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sat Mar 6 17:11:26 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 13:11:26 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Spring drive In-Reply-To: <173126441003061516g45ff0835j735151fdf9bb159c@mail.gmail.com> References: <8AF565507A844D15A6350EEB3840F2D4@atc0f226cd3237> <173126441003061516g45ff0835j735151fdf9bb159c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <137229b1003061611u6cd482p62910f3ce57f9c3d@mail.gmail.com> Its 21 degrees C (70 F) and sunny here in Queenstown, New Zealand with a very light breeze from the SW. Forecast is the same until Friday when we will probably have a light shower; enough to green up the golf course again. Oh...how I miss the change of seasons" NOT!! >> The temperature was in the high 50s here in southern Maine today, so out >> came the wrenches. >> >> We installed the battery, pulled the sparking plugs and injected Marvel >> Mystery oil into the cylinders, gapped and reinstalled the plugs. The ol' >> Blue Mainie fired right up, so off I went for a five mile drive. Ah, Spring >> is right around the corner. We have to be on the watch for Old Man Winter >> in >> these parts, but it sure was good to hear the exhaust note and see that >> everything still works. >> >> == Alex in Maine >> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >> 1965 MG Midget >> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm >> >> >> [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried >> to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send >> plain text.] >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com >> > > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Mar 6 18:44:30 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 17:44:30 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Amateur Sports Car Racing in the '60s Message-ID: <689461.48751.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> This is just the best. A period half-hour video about amateur SCCA racing in the 60s. Lots of big Healeys and Sprites. Great shots at the Glen before they put up all the armco. http://vimeo.com/4139756 Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From mgcharlie at comcast.net Sat Mar 6 19:42:24 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 21:42:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive ratios Message-ID: <4B931290.5050603@comcast.net> The Austin-Healey overdrive ratios are 28% and 22% which are the first two numbers in the serial number shown on the plate on the overdrive unit. How does that translate into figuring what the ratio coming out of the transmission is? For example, 4th gear is 1.00 to 1.00. An overdrive ratio would be 1.00 to (a number less than 1.00). Obviously it is not 1.00 to 0.28 or 0.22. Would it be 1.00 to (1-0.28) or 1.00 to 0.72? Thanks. Charlie [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Mar 6 20:21:10 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 03:21:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive ratios In-Reply-To: <4B931290.5050603@comcast.net> Message-ID: <297158180.11068061267932070292.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Other way around. The ratio would be 1:1.28 (or 0.72:1.0). For instance, if the gearbox output is 1,000RPM, the O/D's output would be 1,280RPM. (a 28% 'boost' in ouput). Another way of looking at it is that the O/D reduces the engine RPMs by the stated percent. (if you switch on the O/D without applying more throttle, the engine speed will decrease). bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA The Austin-Healey overdrive ratios are 28% and 22% which are the first two numbers in the serial number shown on the plate on the overdrive unit. How does that translate into figuring what the ratio coming out of the transmission is? For example, 4th gear is 1.00 to 1.00. An overdrive ratio would be 1.00 to (a number less than 1.00). Obviously it is not 1.00 to 0.28 or 0.22. Would it be 1.00 to (1-0.28) or 1.00 to 0.72? Thanks. Charlie From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sat Mar 6 20:51:41 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2010 19:51:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive ratios Message-ID: <380819.27343.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Charlie; Here is an excel spread sheet that will calculate your speed given different transmission final ratios, tire diameters, rear axle gear ratios, and engine rpm. At the moment the inputs are for my MkII Tricarb. Just change the red input items to suit your car. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives PS: I have copied John Sims if he thinks it is suitable for his web site. --- On Sat, 3/6/10, Charlie Baldwin wrote: From: Charlie Baldwin Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive ratios To: "healey list" Received: Saturday, March 6, 2010, 9:42 PM The Austin-Healey overdrive ratios are 28% and 22% which are the first two numbers in the serial number shown on the plate on the overdrive unit. How does that translate into figuring what the ratio coming out of the transmission is? For example, 4th gear is 1.00 to 1.00. An overdrive ratio would be 1.00 to (a number less than 1.00). Obviously it is not 1.00 to 0.28 or 0.22. Would it be 1.00 to (1-0.28) or 1.00 to 0.72? Thanks. Charlie __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of Ratio-Scott.XLS] From acmiller at mhcable.com Sun Mar 7 05:31:18 2010 From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 07:31:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 flat top pistons (10:1) Message-ID: Am building race engine for Pocono (April 11th) and have run against snag. Dennis Welch Motorsports is back ordered 4-6 wks on the flat top 88mm pistons, which requires my sourcing a set of racing pistons elsewhere. if anyone on the list has had a custom set fabricated by JE Pistons or a similar piston maker, i would appreciate the specs and/or order # so i could piggyback off the design specs? am sticking with the stock wrist pins (floating in piston, clenched to con rod). alternately, if anyone knows of a set for sale somewhere, would be very interested. also interested in speaking with anyone with experience engine is otherwise in the works, and i am loathe to use my existing set of 0.20" over M-spec (shallow dish) pistons a stopgap measure, since it means building a second short block for a single season's use. also could use input from anyone with information as to locations and depths for valve relief pockets. thanks. allen miller bn2-m From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 7 07:52:27 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 06:52:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 flat top pistons (10:1) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <723100.34488.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Allen, Have you tried Medina Motorsports (http://www.medinamotorsports.com/) or 800-700-7057. I believe my pistons came from Bob Yule at AutoFarm (http://www.autofarm.net/autofarm/home.aspx) up in Canada. There's also Custom Pistons (http://cppistons.com/) Or JE Pistons (http://www.jepistons.com/) Do a Google search on custom pistons and a slew of sites come up. Hope this helps. Cheers, Carlos ________________________________ From: allen c miller jr To: Healey List Sent: Sun, March 7, 2010 6:31:18 AM Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 flat top pistons (10:1) Am building race engine for Pocono (April 11th) and have run against snag. Dennis Welch Motorsports is back ordered 4-6 wks on the flat top 88mm pistons, which requires my sourcing a set of racing pistons elsewhere. if anyone on the list has had a custom set fabricated by JE Pistons or a similar piston maker, i would appreciate the specs and/or order # so i could piggyback off the design specs? am sticking with the stock wrist pins (floating in piston, clenched to con rod). alternately, if anyone knows of a set for sale somewhere, would be very interested. also interested in speaking with anyone with experience engine is otherwise in the works, and i am loathe to use my existing set of 0.20" over M-spec (shallow dish) pistons a stopgap measure, since it means building a second short block for a single season's use. also could use input from anyone with information as to locations and depths for valve relief pockets. thanks. allen miller bn2-m _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Mar 7 08:38:30 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2010 10:38:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive ratios In-Reply-To: <380819.27343.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <380819.27343.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001201cabe0c$3d7a4a30$b86ede90$@net> This excel spread sheet is now on the Miscellaneous section of the Technical page of my site. Thanks, Scott. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From: J. Scott Morris [mailto:jstmorris at yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 10:52 PM To: Charlie Baldwin; Austin Healey Cc: John Sims Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive ratios Hello Charlie; Here is an excel spread sheet that will calculate your speed given different transmission final ratios, tire diameters, rear axle gear ratios, and engine rpm. At the moment the inputs are for my MkII Tricarb. Just change the red input items to suit your car. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives PS: I have copied John Sims if he thinks it is suitable for his web site. --- On Sat, 3/6/10, Charlie Baldwin wrote: From: Charlie Baldwin Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive ratios To: "healey list" Received: Saturday, March 6, 2010, 9:42 PM The Austin-Healey overdrive ratios are 28% and 22% which are the first two numbers in the serial number shown on the plate on the overdrive unit. How does that translate into figuring what the ratio coming out of the transmission is? For example, 4th gear is 1.00 to 1.00. An overdrive ratio would be 1.00 to (a number less than 1.00). Obviously it is not 1.00 to 0.28 or 0.22. Would it be 1.00 to (1-0.28) or 1.00 to 0.72? Thanks. Charlie From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun Mar 7 09:29:01 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2010 08:29:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Welding_question?= Message-ID: <20100307162901.15945.qmail@hoster902.com> I'm going to have a local welder weld some brackets to my frame. My question for you experienced welders: is it necessary to strip the paint prior to welding, or will the welding burn right through it? Thanks in advance. -- Steve Gerow BN6 From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Mar 7 10:06:28 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 17:06:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Welding question In-Reply-To: <20100307162901.15945.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20100307162901.15945.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: Steve: I am assuming here that you either will be welding with MIG or TIG so if your frame is painted and by that I mean primer then paint, yes you will have to bring the area to be welded to bare metal. If your frame is primed only and it is a "weldable " primer, meaning a primer you can weld through, then it does not have to be removed. For good penetration it is always preferable to bring the surfaces to be welded totally bare. Jean Caron > From: steveg at abrazosdata.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 08:29:01 -0800 > Subject: [Healeys] Welding question > > I'm going to have a local welder weld some brackets to my frame. > > My question for you experienced welders: is it necessary to strip the paint prior to welding, or will the welding burn right through it? > > Thanks in advance. > > -- > Steve Gerow > BN6 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Live connected with Messenger on your phone http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9712958 From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Mar 7 10:33:29 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 09:33:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Welding question In-Reply-To: <20100307162901.15945.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20100307162901.15945.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <9322BF73-B03B-472D-8991-EE3CC2E8D0E9@gmail.com> Remove oil and dirt. Clean off paint. Weld on as clean a surface as you can I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Mar 7, 2010, at 8:29 AM, "Steve B. Gerow" wrote: > I'm going to have a local welder weld some brackets to my frame. > > My question for you experienced welders: is it necessary to strip > the paint prior to welding, or will the welding burn right through it? > > Thanks in advance. > > -- > Steve Gerow > BN6 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 7 13:22:52 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 12:22:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] showroom restorations Message-ID: <124218.50842.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> does anyone know if their still in existence he did my paint job a while ago and i need to find out what color he used thanks ,also does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to put in a new main oil seal i'm in ny thanks all From dan at warner-associates.com Sun Mar 7 13:36:09 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 14:36:09 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Arm Buttons BJ8 Message-ID: <3E3896DA13884B88B7887C8FE32A178F@DANSTROM> Does anyone know where I can purchase new "buttons" that press onto the end of the shaft, which comes out of the wiper wheel box (the chrome wiper blade assembly fits directly over these male ends). Mine are in bad shape from removing the wipers too many times and since I have the motor and assembly out I thought now would be the time to press on new sleeves rather than put the damn thing back on and have the blades fall off first time I turn them on. Happy From pennell at cox.net Sun Mar 7 13:38:39 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 15:38:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Welding question In-Reply-To: <20100307162901.15945.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <20100307153839.H2Z2F.159752.imail@eastrmwml39> Steve, It only stands to reason that bare metal welds to bare metal best. Granted the weld will burn through the paint OK and the strength of the weld will still be good - probably very little difference. But it only takes a few passes with a grinding wheel/wire wheel to get to metal, go ahead and have him do it. Keith ---- "Steve B. Gerow" wrote: > I'm going to have a local welder weld some brackets to my frame. > > My question for you experienced welders: is it necessary to strip the paint prior to welding, or will the welding burn right through it? > > Thanks in advance. > > -- > Steve Gerow > BN6 From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Mar 7 14:06:52 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 16:06:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] showroom restorations In-Reply-To: <124218.50842.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100307150652.DELF2.247206.root@ispmxfep14-z01> I must have missed the first post on this, so---who is "they"? Tom ---- john doe wrote: ============= does anyone know if their still in existence he did my paint job a while ago and i need to find out what color he used thanks ,also does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to put in a new main oil seal i'm in ny thanks all _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From edriver at sasktel.net Sun Mar 7 14:14:14 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2010 15:14:14 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Welding question In-Reply-To: <20100307153839.H2Z2F.159752.imail@eastrmwml39> References: <20100307153839.H2Z2F.159752.imail@eastrmwml39> Message-ID: <4B941726.9020907@sasktel.net> From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun Mar 7 14:17:33 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2010 13:17:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Welding_Question?= Message-ID: <20100307211733.18062.qmail@hoster902.com> Thanks to everyone for the erudite responses to my question - bright metal it is! -- Steve Gerow From Healey100M at gmail.com Sun Mar 7 15:14:45 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 17:14:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 electrical issue Message-ID: My BN1 developed an electrical issue overnight. Car started and ran fine Saturday. This AM it would not turn over. Ignition light was on faintly even though key was out. Key turned in ignition didn't make a difference, light stayed on faintly. Turned cut off switch off, charged batteries, now bright ignition light, juice coming out both sides of the ignition switch but car will not turn over. When I hit starter button it just drains power and doesn't turn over. Key in ignition doesn't do anything. Suggestions? Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Sun Mar 7 15:29:21 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 14:29:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 flat top pistons (10:1) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <349948.65332.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> contact Bill Mannes of Kansas city club. He lives in Independence,Mo. He used pistons out of 50s Dodge,They fit the Healey and they are 10-1. Bill put them in his race car. Dave Wirken of the same area would also be a contact person if you can't reach Bill. They are a great bunch of guys out there and I am sure they can help you. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Sun, 3/7/10, allen c miller jr wrote: From: allen c miller jr Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 flat top pistons (10:1) To: "Healey List" Received: Sunday, March 7, 2010, 7:31 AM Am building race engine for Pocono (April 11th) and have run against snag. Dennis Welch Motorsports is back ordered 4-6 wks on the flat top 88mm pistons, which requires my sourcing a set of racing pistons elsewhere. if anyone on the list has had a custom set fabricated by JE Pistons or a similar piston maker, i would appreciate the specs and/or order # so i could piggyback off the design specs? am sticking with the stock wrist pins (floating in piston, clenched to con rod). alternately, if anyone knows of a set for sale somewhere, would be very interested. also interested in speaking with anyone with experience engine is otherwise in the works, and i am loathe to use my existing set of 0.20" over M-spec (shallow dish) pistons a stopgap measure, since it means building a second short block for a single season's use. also could use input from anyone with information as to locations and depths for valve relief pockets. thanks. allen miller bn2-m _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sun Mar 7 16:31:23 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 18:31:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye Message-ID: Just put a 3.7 rear in our Bugeye- and love it. Wanted to see if there was anyone out there with a Bugeye, with a stock 4.2 rear. Interested in comparing RPM's between the two. If this is you take the GPS with you (unless your speedo is dead on) and take note of the RPM's at 60 MPH. I know the Tach could be off, but might be interesting to see. We also have a rib case gearbox- not sure if that would change the ratio or not. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469229/direct/01/ From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 7 16:35:35 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 07:35:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 electrical issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Randy - First check the switch (out of the car) and make sure it is functioning correctly with an ohm meter. Was the key getting hot before when the car was working? If so it is a bad switch. If it is working correctly then you need to check why you are getting a power feedback downstream of the switch. A quick check - open the dizzy and check that your contacts aren't fused together. Also open the Voltage Regulator and check its contacts similarly. Alan On 3/8/10, Randy Hicks wrote: > My BN1 developed an electrical issue overnight. Car started and ran fine > Saturday. This AM it would not turn over. > > Ignition light was on faintly even though key was out. Key turned in > ignition > didn't make a difference, light stayed on faintly. Turned cut off switch > off, > charged batteries, now bright ignition light, juice coming out both sides of > the ignition switch but car will not turn over. When I hit starter button it > just drains power and doesn't turn over. Key in ignition doesn't do > anything. > > Suggestions? > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > '56 100M > '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From Healey100M at gmail.com Sun Mar 7 16:37:43 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 18:37:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: BN1 electrical issue - update References: Message-ID: OK, Doug shares part of the prize. Fuse in wrong - dumb on my part - moving to fast. That solved the key issue. Got power into the starter solenoid, but when the starter button is pushed, there is no juice out of the solenoid to starter. Fried solenoid? Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com Begin forwarded message: > From: Randy Hicks > Date: March 7, 2010 5:14:45 PM EST > To: Healey List > Subject: BN1 electrical issue > > My BN1 developed an electrical issue overnight. Car started and ran fine Saturday. This AM it would not turn over. > > Ignition light was on faintly even though key was out. Key turned in ignition didn't make a difference, light stayed on faintly. Turned cut off switch off, charged batteries, now bright ignition light, juice coming out both sides of the ignition switch but car will not turn over. When I hit starter button it just drains power and doesn't turn over. Key in ignition doesn't do anything. > > Suggestions? > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > '56 100M > '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 7 17:00:15 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 08:00:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 electrical issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I forgot to say that you need to also run though all you connections and make sure you don't have a loose wire or crossed connection somewhere. I'd particularly check behind the dash and the fuse box. Alan On 3/8/10, Randy Hicks wrote: > My BN1 developed an electrical issue overnight. Car started and ran fine > Saturday. This AM it would not turn over. > > Ignition light was on faintly even though key was out. Key turned in > ignition > didn't make a difference, light stayed on faintly. Turned cut off switch > off, > charged batteries, now bright ignition light, juice coming out both sides of > the ignition switch but car will not turn over. When I hit starter button it > just drains power and doesn't turn over. Key in ignition doesn't do > anything. > > Suggestions? > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > '56 100M > '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 7 17:30:09 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 08:30:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: BN1 electrical issue - update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have you tried activating the solenoid by hand? Sometimes that clears the bad connection On 3/8/10, Randy Hicks wrote: > OK, Doug shares part of the prize. Fuse in wrong - dumb on my part - moving > to > fast. > > That solved the key issue. Got power into the starter solenoid, but when the > starter button is pushed, there is no juice out of the solenoid to starter. > > Fried solenoid? > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > '56 100M > '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > > > > > > > Begin forwarded message: > >> From: Randy Hicks >> Date: March 7, 2010 5:14:45 PM EST >> To: Healey List >> Subject: BN1 electrical issue >> >> My BN1 developed an electrical issue overnight. Car started and ran fine > Saturday. This AM it would not turn over. >> >> Ignition light was on faintly even though key was out. Key turned in > ignition didn't make a difference, light stayed on faintly. Turned cut off > switch off, charged batteries, now bright ignition light, juice coming out > both sides of the ignition switch but car will not turn over. When I hit > starter button it just drains power and doesn't turn over. Key in ignition > doesn't do anything. >> >> Suggestions? >> >> Randy >> >> Randy Hicks >> '56 100M >> '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans >> '62 BN7 MkII >> '65 BJ8 >> '53 MGTD >> Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Sun Mar 7 18:11:22 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2010 19:11:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Welding Question In-Reply-To: <20100307211733.18062.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20100307211733.18062.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <4B944EBA.9030807@justbrits.com> << bright metal it is! >> EXACT same thing as ALL electrical connections on our cars, Steve !!!! Ed From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Mar 7 18:35:03 2010 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 17:35:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] showroom restorations References: <124218.50842.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <24FF1200BF104B9984369C7114FB2165@brucepc> Neither Google nor Bing searches bring up a Showroom Restorations anywhere. Bruce 1960 BN7 Brea, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" To: Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 12:22 PM Subject: [Healeys] showroom restorations does anyone know if their still in existence he did my paint job a while ago and i need to find out what color he used thanks ,also does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to put in a new main oil seal i'm in ny thanks all _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sun Mar 7 18:45:30 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 20:45:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Showroom restorations Message-ID: Ed Rosensteel died a few years ago at the age of fifty. He closed up shop a few years prior to that. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ From mkgoodman at att.net Sun Mar 7 22:27:57 2010 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 10:57:57 +0530 Subject: [Healeys] Oil seal Message-ID: <40F0DCB2-D354-450A-88B5-7FFFC7FF4C54@att.net> Dear John Doe , Contact Bob Millstein for anything Healey related if you are in the NYC area. He rebuilt the engine on my BJ8 over 10 years ago. He and his people know what they are doing and you will NEVER have to take it anywhere else to fix the work they do, which is the case with many mechanics. He is a good person to know. I have No financial Interest. His contact information is: Briarcliff Classic imports 914-762-1200 Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.Austinhealeyessence.com Sent from my iPhone From scvc70 at epix.net Mon Mar 8 08:34:15 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 10:34:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] media blasting material References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100304195425.01fd3c38@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <22E4907130EE46019FF3FAA6E261EB66@S0026273562> We recently had a few bits from my Hundred soda blasted (the guy has a mobile unit, and specializes in graffiti removal). The aluminum splash pan turned out perfectly; the rusty seats less so. We'll ask him to try using either a different medium or a higher pressure on the next rusty bits. We've seen a T-bird done by a different local guy (in his shop, not on-site) and it turned out beautifully--but I don't know what medium he used. Sarah Carr BN1 in (still snowy) PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" To: Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 10:56 PM Subject: [Healeys] media blasting material > Hello, > > I checked the archives but did not find out much about the type of media > people are using to clean old paint from Healey parts. > > What is best; soda, glass or plastic beads, walnut shells or aluminum > oxide? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 From warthodson at aol.com Mon Mar 8 11:51:43 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 13:51:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 brake master Cylinder Message-ID: <8CC8D07880BFE60-4DAC-9E03@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> Can someone please tell me the diameter of the 100 brake master clyinder bore? The actual bore diameter, not the plunger diameter. While I am asking, is there a publication that lists the clutch & brake bore diameter for all British vehicles that use Girling master cylinders? If not, how about all Austin-Healeys? Thanks, Gary Hodson From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 8 12:49:17 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 13:49:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover In-Reply-To: <001501cabc8c$3f499270$bddcb750$@com> References: <00ab01cabb95$6e0b5c80$4a221580$@net> <001501cabc8c$3f499270$bddcb750$@com> Message-ID: <4B9554BD.60107@justbrits.com> From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 8 12:57:24 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 20:57:24 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 brake master Cylinder In-Reply-To: <8CC8D07880BFE60-4DAC-9E03@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC8D07880BFE60-4DAC-9E03@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B9556A4.8090301@chello.nl> Plenty of these catalogues around on ebay etc. e.g.: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTOJUMBLERS-GIRLING-BRAKE-AND-CLUTCH-CATALOGUE_W0QQitemZ270541015792QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET?hash=item3efd804af0 or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GIRLING-HYDRAULIC-CATALOGUE-1945-1972-pdf-FREE-CD_W0QQitemZ220512325407QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item33578f0f1f Kees Oudesluijs NL warthodson at aol.com schreef: > Can someone please tell me the diameter of the 100 brake master clyinder bore? > The actual bore diameter, not the plunger diameter. > While I am asking, is there a publication that lists the clutch & brake bore > diameter for all British vehicles that use Girling master cylinders? If not, > how about all Austin-Healeys? > Thanks, > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.733 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2730 - datum van uitgifte: 03/08/10 08:34:00 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Mar 8 13:36:35 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:36:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 brake master Cylinder In-Reply-To: <4B9556A4.8090301@chello.nl> References: <8CC8D07880BFE60-4DAC-9E03@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> <4B9556A4.8090301@chello.nl> Message-ID: <00b501cabeff$0c3ca780$24b5f680$@net> Look on my site at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Girling.pdf John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 2:57 PM To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 brake master Cylinder Plenty of these catalogues around on ebay etc. e.g.: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTOJUMBLERS-GIRLING-BRAKE-AND-CLUTCH-CATALOGUE_W0QQit emZ270541015792QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_E T?hash=item3efd804af0 or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GIRLING-HYDRAULIC-CATALOGUE-1945-1972-pdf-FREE-CD_W0QQ itemZ220512325407QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=i tem33578f0f1f Kees Oudesluijs NL warthodson at aol.com schreef: > Can someone please tell me the diameter of the 100 brake master clyinder bore? > The actual bore diameter, not the plunger diameter. > While I am asking, is there a publication that lists the clutch & brake bore > diameter for all British vehicles that use Girling master cylinders? If not, > how about all Austin-Healeys? > Thanks, > Gary Hodson > t From thehealeyguy at gmail.com Mon Mar 8 16:40:09 2010 From: thehealeyguy at gmail.com (Bob Abbott) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 18:40:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts Message-ID: <13df1a4f1003081540j1d9ba6bcv4a9d650af97b6ceb@mail.gmail.com> Can anyone direct me to a previous article about installing three point seat belts in the rear seats of a BT7? Or does anyone have any suggestions on how to anchor seat belts in the rear seat area of a BT7? TIA Bob From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Mar 8 16:55:14 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 17:55:14 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover In-Reply-To: <4B9554BD.60107@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <20100308175514.0UGP2.288313.root@ispmxfep13-z01> Nice read Ed. More than your usual wisdom:):) ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: ============= _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 8 17:26:45 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 18:26:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts In-Reply-To: <13df1a4f1003081540j1d9ba6bcv4a9d650af97b6ceb@mail.gmail.com> References: <13df1a4f1003081540j1d9ba6bcv4a9d650af97b6ceb@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B9595C5.3020804@justbrits.com> << Can anyone direct me to a previous article about installing three point seat belts in the rear seats of a BT7? >> 4th line down from the _____ at the bottom of EVERY List Post, Bob !! Ed From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 8 17:29:26 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 18:29:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Traveling Cover In-Reply-To: <20100308175514.0UGP2.288313.root@ispmxfep13-z01> References: <20100308175514.0UGP2.288313.root@ispmxfep13-z01> Message-ID: <4B959666.7040607@justbrits.com> To paraphrase Tonto.... << More than your usual wisdom >> Me no speaketh with forked tongue, Tom !! From jstmorris at yahoo.com Mon Mar 8 17:30:15 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 16:30:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts Message-ID: <824926.85745.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Bob; Here is a copy of the Austin Service Journal dated 1961-11-16 which outlines the installation of seat belts for the Austin Healey Sprite, 100-6 and 3000 BN7 & BT7. This should provide your answer. Good luck. Note: It is also on the AHCSO website at http://www.ahcso.com/TechTalk/TechTalk.htm and John Sims web site: http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/Seat%20Belt-ASJ.pdf --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Mon, 3/8/10, Bob Abbott wrote: << Can anyone direct me to a previous article about installing three point seat belts in the rear seats of a BT7? Or does anyone have any suggestions on how to anchor seat belts in the rear seat area of a BT7? >> __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Seat] From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Mar 8 18:04:25 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 17:04:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor Message-ID: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> I my never ending search for the obscure: I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) -- I Erbs Portland, OR From neilandcustom at gmail.com Mon Mar 8 18:57:39 2010 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 19:57:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor In-Reply-To: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000f01cabf2b$e8b1b620$ba152260$@com> Here are two suppliers: Healey Surgeons - WSN-017 - Wiper motor mount rubber bush - $3.00 ea Moss - 280-755 - motor mount bush - $2.75 ea Moss - 145-755 - mount bush kit - $7.95 (which I believe includes the double end threaded screws) Not as unobtanium as imagined. Neil Anderson -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:04 PM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor I my never ending search for the obscure: I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From neilandcustom at gmail.com Mon Mar 8 19:02:48 2010 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 20:02:48 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor References: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001001cabf2c$a2bc34f0$e8349ed0$@com> Sorry, the second Moss part# should be 145-640 (kit of three parts) -----Original Message----- From: Neil Anderson [mailto:neilandcustom at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:58 PM To: 'I Erbs'; 'healey help' Subject: RE: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor Here are two suppliers: Healey Surgeons - WSN-017 - Wiper motor mount rubber bush - $3.00 ea Moss - 280-755 - motor mount bush - $2.75 ea Moss - 145-755 - mount bush kit - $7.95 (which I believe includes the double end threaded screws) Not as unobtanium as imagined. Neil Anderson -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:04 PM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor I my never ending search for the obscure: I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From neilandcustom at gmail.com Mon Mar 8 19:04:17 2010 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 20:04:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor In-Reply-To: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001101cabf2c$d6acde40$84069ac0$@com> Sorry, the second Moss part# should be 145-640 (kit of three parts) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:04 PM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor I my never ending search for the obscure: I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Mar 8 19:15:28 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2010 18:15:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor In-Reply-To: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B95AF40.9020603@comcast.net> Moss part# 280-755 @ $2.75 ea. Whole kit (#145-640) is only $7.95 (quality is good). bs I Erbs wrote: > I my never ending search for the obscure: > I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches > to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks > rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 8 19:26:27 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 21:26:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts References: <13df1a4f1003081540j1d9ba6bcv4a9d650af97b6ceb@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001901cabf2f$ec4d56a0$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Rear seats? Don't remember a 3 point rear seat version. Are you sure you want to put a human of any size back there. I know its such a cute idea, but lets hope you never have to use those seat belts cause seriously, do you really think they would do any good. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Abbott" To: Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 6:40 PM Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belts > Can anyone direct me to a previous article about installing three point > seat > belts in the rear seats of a BT7? Or does anyone have any suggestions on > how > to anchor seat belts in the rear seat area of a BT7? > TIA > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From mslechta at chartermi.net Mon Mar 8 19:36:39 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 20:36:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor In-Reply-To: <001101cabf2c$d6acde40$84069ac0$@com> References: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> <001101cabf2c$d6acde40$84069ac0$@com> Message-ID: <5E0B370D31064260A8D0E008D51287A9@MikesLaptop> No matter what the MOSS part # is - I'd stay away from MOSS rubber parts. I've had their rubber products deteriate in less than a year & my cars are always garaged (heated in winter) when not in use. Mad Mike (as in Madison, WI) ----- Original Message ----- From: Neil Anderson To: 'I Erbs' ; 'healey help' Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor Sorry, the second Moss part# should be 145-640 (kit of three parts) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:04 PM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor I my never ending search for the obscure: I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Mar 8 19:39:12 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 10:39:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 brake master Cylinder In-Reply-To: <00b501cabeff$0c3ca780$24b5f680$@net> References: <8CC8D07880BFE60-4DAC-9E03@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> <4B9556A4.8090301@chello.nl> <00b501cabeff$0c3ca780$24b5f680$@net> Message-ID: >From what I gather on that document, it looks like a 3/4" bore. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Mar 9, 2010 at 4:36 AM, John Sims wrote: > Look on my site at: > > http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Girling.pdf > > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Oudesluys > Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 2:57 PM > To: warthodson at aol.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 brake master Cylinder > > Plenty of these catalogues around on ebay etc. e.g.: > > > http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTOJUMBLERS-GIRLING-BRAKE-AND-CLUTCH-CATALOGUE_W0QQit > > emZ270541015792QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_E > T?hash=item3efd804af0 > > or > > > http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GIRLING-HYDRAULIC-CATALOGUE-1945-1972-pdf-FREE-CD_W0QQ > > itemZ220512325407QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=i > tem33578f0f1f > > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > warthodson at aol.com schreef: > > Can someone please tell me the diameter of the 100 brake master clyinder > bore? > > The actual bore diameter, not the plunger diameter. > > While I am asking, is there a publication that lists the clutch & brake > bore > > diameter for all British vehicles that use Girling master cylinders? If > not, > > how about all Austin-Healeys? > > Thanks, > > Gary Hodson > > > t > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From neilandcustom at gmail.com Mon Mar 8 21:20:03 2010 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 22:20:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor In-Reply-To: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <002201cabf3f$cbd59ee0$6380dca0$@com> Should mention that "Just Ed" has these too. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:04 PM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor I my never ending search for the obscure: I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Mar 9 04:48:19 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 06:48:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor References: <173126441003081704u9dabec7r22dabedbf9295d4e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000e01cabf7e$6a48f070$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> They are on Ebay and Moss motors. Go to Noslocators on Ebay. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: "healey help" Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 8:04 PM Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor >I my never ending search for the obscure: > I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches > to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks > rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Mar 9 06:55:46 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 7:55:46 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor In-Reply-To: <000e01cabf7e$6a48f070$4101a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <20100309075546.CLAFJ.311488.root@ispmxfep11-z01> If anyone is thinking of buying a windshield from NOS Locators, you might want to contact me first for some thoughts. tom ---- Mark LaPierre wrote: ============= They are on Ebay and Moss motors. Go to Noslocators on Ebay. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: "healey help" Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 8:04 PM Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor >I my never ending search for the obscure: > I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches > to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks > rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him :) > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From grday at btinternet.com Tue Mar 9 08:00:48 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 15:00:48 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Non Spridget Snippets through the net Message-ID: BlankLotus & Cosworth go closer together..... The partnership includes the supply by Cosworth of high-performance engines based upon existing Toyota engines for future Lotus cars, and the assembly by Cosworth of racing engines for all motorsport activities which are based on Toyota powertrains. The first application of these race engines will be for the V6 engine in the new Lotus Evora Cup racing car Not really new but ..... General Motors has announced that Sichuan Tengzhong Heavy Industrial Machines Co., Ltd. (Tengzhong) was unable to complete the acquisition of Hummer. As a result, GM will begin the orderly wind-down of the Hummer operations. Spyker Cars N.V. has confirmed it has finalized the deal with General Motors to purchase Saab Automobile AB. Ownership took place on February 23. Going forward Saab Automobile and Spyker Cars will operate as sister companies under the umbrella of the Amsterdam Euronext listed parent company Spyker Cars N.V. This transaction secures the future of Saab Automobile and signals the start of a new era for the brand. Guy R Day [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Blank Bkgrd.gif] From loftusdesign at cox.net Tue Mar 9 12:29:47 2010 From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus) Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2010 11:29:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] rubber bits on bottom of windshield wiper motor Message-ID: <4B96A1AB.5010104@cox.net> I have an older Nock/BCS catalog (2005) but see them on page 12, Wiper Motor Mounts. Can be hard to find things in their catalog unless you use the index in the back. ;-) > >I my never ending search for the obscure: > > I need to replace the isolation rubber bits where the wiper motor attaches > > to the body. Please let me now where I can get them. I checked Norm Nocks > > rare parts list, but I guess these are too rare even for him:) > > > > > > -- > > I Erbs > > Portland, OR From Editorgary at aol.com Tue Mar 9 13:01:46 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 15:01:46 EST Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of Orphan Brands Message-ID: <17b12.31d26a91.38c8032a@aol.com> Noting the comments about Hummer, etc. Has anybody heard word one about the disappearance of the Healey name as a brand? When it was last seen, it was reported in the possession of a Swiss gearhead b having been purchased from the Healey grandchildren b along with all of the files from the erstwhile Healey Museum in Virginia. At that time, promises were made that the name would reappear on a Healey sports car, and the files and collection would reappear as a museum at the Swiss headquarters of the reborn Healey Automobile Company. Anybody? Anything? Gary From charliefci at yahoo.com Tue Mar 9 14:04:45 2010 From: charliefci at yahoo.com (Charlie) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 13:04:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of Orphan Brands In-Reply-To: <17b12.31d26a91.38c8032a@aol.com> Message-ID: <842185.4822.qm@web112012.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Copied this off Wikipedia; "Successors The name Austin is now owned by Nanjing who bought the assets of MG Rover Group (British Leyland's successor company) out of bankruptcy in 2005. After Donald Healey sold his original business, Donald Healey Motor Company, the Healey brand was registered to a new firm, Healey Automobile Consultants, which the Healey family sold to HFI Automotive in 2005. In June 2007, Nanjing and Healey Automobile Consultants / HFI Automotive signed a collaborative agreement that aims to recreate the Austin Healey and Healey marquees alongside NAC's MG. No timeline has been given as to when the Healey and Austin-Healey brands will return, although MG will be back on the market in China and the UK by the year's end." Charlie BJ7 Modified Noting the comments about Hummer, etc. Has anybody heard word one about the disappearance of the Healey name as a brand? When it was last seen, it was reported in the possession of a Swiss gearhead b having been purchased from the Healey grandchildren b along with all of the files from the erstwhile Healey Museum in Virginia. At that time, promises were made that the name would reappear on a Healey sports car, and the files and collection would reappear as a museum at the Swiss headquarters of the reborn Healey Automobile Company. Anybody? Anything? Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/charliefci at yahoo.com From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 9 14:16:33 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 13:16:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] brake booster Message-ID: <642013.46654.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> been struggling with the brakes for a while now does anyone know how to tell if the booster is working properly had it rebuilt by apple a while ago ,with the constant sitting don't know if its stuck its for a bj8 . just did the master cylinder and bled the system what a project any help is appreciated thanks ralph from ny From Editorgary at aol.com Tue Mar 9 14:18:50 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 16:18:50 EST Subject: [Healeys] Where did the Healey Brand go? Message-ID: <1d8da.2a55a50e.38c8153a@aol.com> In a message dated 3/9/10 1:04:50 PM, charliefci at yahoo.com writes: > Healey Motor Company, the Healey brand was registered to a new firm, > Healey Automobile Consultants, which the Healey family sold to HFI Automotive > in 2005. > In June 2007, Nanjing and Healey Automobile Consultants / HFI Automotive > signed a collaborative agreement that aims to recreate the Austin Healey > and Healey marquees alongside NAC's MG. No timeline has been given as to when > the Healey and Austin-Healey brands will return, although MG will be back > on the market in China and the UK by the year's end." > > True up to the point covered; However, my understanding of the more recent news reports was that the collaborative agreement did have a time limit, and when Nanjing was unable to meet its deadlines, that agreement died and the Healey name reverted to Healey Automobile Consultants (also known informally as "Margot and the girls"), but has more recently been replaced by an agreement signed between HAC and Daniel Schlatter of Switzerland, who was promising to have a Healey prototype to display at Goodwood this year -- which didn't happen. And that's the last I've heard; I wondered if anyone else has heard anything. Cheers Gary From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Mar 9 14:22:54 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 13:22:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of Orphan Brands In-Reply-To: <842185.4822.qm@web112012.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <17b12.31d26a91.38c8032a@aol.com> <842185.4822.qm@web112012.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <173126441003091322t64d750c0u80d8e810b76e46bc@mail.gmail.com> HFI, did collect deposits on the new car based on drawings that where released. IMHO, the car shown at that time was a yawn, and not in the sprirt of our beloved stylish rides.... Ira Erbs 1960 BT7 owned 36 years also owned: 67 Sunmbean IMP (with race engine) 59 MGA coupe, TR6 year unknown, not really owned, just driven fro 6 months while dating the owner... 65 MGB 59 100-6 On Tue, Mar 9, 2010 at 1:04 PM, Charlie wrote: > Copied this off Wikipedia; > > "Successors > The name Austin is now owned by Nanjing who bought the assets of MG Rover > Group (British Leyland's successor company) out of bankruptcy in 2005. > After > Donald Healey sold his original business, Donald Healey Motor Company, the > Healey brand was registered to a new firm, Healey Automobile Consultants, > which the Healey family sold to HFI Automotive in 2005. > In June 2007, Nanjing and Healey Automobile Consultants / HFI Automotive > signed a collaborative agreement that aims to recreate the Austin Healey > and > Healey marquees alongside NAC's MG. No timeline has been given as to when > the > Healey and Austin-Healey brands will return, although MG will be back on > the > market in China and the UK by the year's end." > > Charlie > BJ7 Modified > > > > Noting the comments about Hummer, etc. > > Has anybody heard word one about the disappearance of the Healey name as a > brand? When it was last seen, it was reported in the possession of a Swiss > gearhead b having been purchased from the Healey grandchildren b along > with > all of the files from the erstwhile Healey Museum in Virginia. At that > time, > promises were made that the name would reappear on a Healey sports car, and > the files and collection would reappear as a museum at the Swiss > headquarters of the reborn Healey Automobile Company. > > Anybody? Anything? > > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/charliefci at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Mar 9 14:25:51 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 13:25:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] brake booster In-Reply-To: <642013.46654.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <642013.46654.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <173126441003091325s1e29d198pd91e53f07fef5e5f@mail.gmail.com> remove vacuum hose, pump brakes. if pedal goes to floor most likely bad booster, if pedal is hard, problem lies elsewhere. Another possible sign is low fluid resevoir, with no sign of a leak. The booster can be sucking the fluid out. I Erbs On Tue, Mar 9, 2010 at 1:16 PM, john doe wrote: > been struggling with the brakes for a while now does anyone know how to > tell if the booster is working properly had it rebuilt by apple a while ago > ,with the constant sitting don't know if its stuck its for a bj8 . just did > the master cylinder and bled the system what a project any help is > appreciated thanks ralph from ny > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Mar 9 14:36:38 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2010 22:36:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] brake booster In-Reply-To: <642013.46654.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <642013.46654.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B96BF66.4070804@chello.nl> Turn off the engine, operate the brake pedal a few times. Then push the brake pedal and keep it down, start the engine, the brake pedal should now sink noticebly. If not there is something amiss. Kees Oudesluijs john doe schreef: > been struggling with the brakes for a while now does anyone know how to tell if the booster is working properly had it rebuilt by apple a while ago ,with the constant sitting don't know if its stuck its for a bj8 . just did the master cylinder and bled the system what a project any help is appreciated thanks ralph from ny > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.733 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2732 - datum van uitgifte: 03/09/10 08:33:00 From logical2 at hotmail.com Tue Mar 9 17:17:14 2010 From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 00:17:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 top and dash support Message-ID: I am assembling my BJ7 and I have a piece marked "dash support" I belive I see where the front end goes but where does the dash end attach to the dash? I replace the sills on my car and I now have no idea where the two top assist springs are attached at the bottom, can someone give me a hint? I know someone will come through with the answers and I am, as always very gratefull for the help. Thanks much, 62' BJ7 61' Bugeye 69' Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/ From shop at justbrits.com Tue Mar 9 18:13:14 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2010 19:13:14 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of Orphan Brands In-Reply-To: <17b12.31d26a91.38c8032a@aol.com> References: <17b12.31d26a91.38c8032a@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B96F22A.9000902@justbrits.com> << At that time, promises were made that the name would reappear on a Healey sports car, and the files and collection would reappear as a museum at the Swiss headquarters of the reborn Healey Automobile Company. Anybody? Anything? >> That is exactly the last thing I have heard/read, Gary !?!?! I too am curious. Ed PS: Gary, did you get my last 2 P.M.s ?? From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Mar 9 18:30:15 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 09:30:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 top and dash support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Frank - If those dash pieces are like the BJ8 (do they attach to the front?) they should be little metal strips which simply wrap around the front lip of the dash-scuttle, which holds the dash down to the scuttle. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Frank Edwards wrote: > I am assembling my BJ7 and I have a piece marked "dash support" I belive I > see where the front end goes but where does the dash end attach to the > dash? > > I replace the sills on my car and I now have no idea where the two top > assist > springs are attached at the bottom, can someone give me a hint? > > I know someone will come through with the answers and I am, as always very > gratefull for the help. > > > > Thanks much, > > > > 62' BJ7 > > 61' Bugeye > > 69' Midget > > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Mar 9 19:25:34 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 21:25:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 top and dash support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello Frank, There will be a mounting hole just to the right of the steering column (LHD car) and along the bottom of the dash, to the immediate left of the instrument illumination slide switch, where a mounting screw will come up through the bottom edge and through the hole in the end of the dash support, to take a flat, lock and nut on the inside of the dash. The anchor tabs for the top cantilever springs come off the edge of the inner sill as shown in this picture. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Frank Edwards" Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 7:17 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 top and dash support > I am assembling my BJ7 and I have a piece marked "dash support" I belive > I > see where the front end goes but where does the dash end attach to the > dash? > > I replace the sills on my car and I now have no idea where the two top > assist > springs are attached at the bottom, can someone give me a hint? > > I know someone will come through with the answers and I am, as always very > gratefull for the help. > > > > Thanks much, > > > > 62' BJ7 > > 61' Bugeye > > 69' Midget > > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 3000 Rdstr Detail 0010.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Greg Grant 049.jpg] From bn1 at pacbell.net Tue Mar 9 23:47:05 2010 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2010 22:47:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey Sterling Moss Message-ID: <4B974069.4080205@pacbell.net> The following two links say it all: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/top-stories/2010/03/10/sir-stirling-racing-back-to-fitness-115875-22099167/ http://www.motorsport.com/news/article.asp?ID=359802 Bill Barnett '53 Red Car From mkgoodman at att.net Wed Mar 10 03:20:29 2010 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 15:50:29 +0530 Subject: [Healeys] Booster Message-ID: <51A93E40-B5C2-4F17-ABE2-E4697727047F@att.net> Ralph, You probably have a stuck piston in the booster and need to Lubricate the walls the leather seal rubs against. You Might have also have a delaminated break hose if they are sticking. Where do you live in NY? Anywhere near Westchester county?? Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com Sent from my iPhone From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Mar 10 08:28:36 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 16:28:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] brake booster In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <8FD823A918C34A349FDABD0915C8AC03@tm> Try the link here: http://tinyurl.com/yhhj733 if this does not work, try here: http://volvo1800pictures.com/document/Service_manual_jack/part_5_brakes_disc _brakes/part_5_brakes_disc_brakes.pdf at the end of this book there is a very detailed testing procedure with or without special equipment... Good Luck, tadek From ahstc at live.com Wed Mar 10 08:31:24 2010 From: ahstc at live.com (ahstc at live.com) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 10:31:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Mar 10 09:23:58 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 08:23:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection Technology Message-ID: <751d05481003100823p13f4eab1oc784c765fda3a5a7@mail.gmail.com> Interesting new technology. I wonder if it will make it into production vehicles anytime soon. http://www.technologyreview.com/energy/24701/?a=f From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Mar 10 11:01:04 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 10:01:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection Technology In-Reply-To: <751d05481003100823p13f4eab1oc784c765fda3a5a7@mail.gmail.com> References: <751d05481003100823p13f4eab1oc784c765fda3a5a7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: It sounds like a diesel engine running on gasoline and heated fuel. There were several phrases in that article that made me go hummmmm? As in it sounds just a bit too good to be true. Rick On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 8:23 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Interesting new technology. I wonder if it will make it into production > vehicles anytime soon. > > http://www.technologyreview.com/energy/24701/?a=f > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 10 18:48:27 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 09:48:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection Technology In-Reply-To: References: <751d05481003100823p13f4eab1oc784c765fda3a5a7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Rick - I have a BS in Mechanical Engineering. I know of the various scientific principles he talks about in the video. Seems to me there is alot to be said for the concept, I could see how it does work. If so, it could be a good interim solution to getting the US energy independent. It's no surprise that the car would sound like a diesel motor - in his system, since the combustion is so fast, fuel injection occurs at maximum compression (TDC). This means his motor will mimic the combustion cycle of a diesel motor (diesels are also designed to combust fuel at TDC). Your standard petrol motor is less efficient because it has to start burning the fuel even before it gets to TDC because combustion in a petrol motor takes time, that's why we have centrifugal advance on our distributors. With his EFI system you probably wouldn't need any advance on the distributor. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 2:01 AM, Richard Ewald wrote: > It sounds like a diesel engine running on gasoline and heated fuel. > There were several phrases in that article that made me go hummmmm? > As in it sounds just a bit too good to be true. > Rick > > On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 8:23 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt >wrote: > > > Interesting new technology. I wonder if it will make it into production > > vehicles anytime soon. > > > > http://www.technologyreview.com/energy/24701/?a=f > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Mar 10 21:29:46 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 20:29:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection Technology In-Reply-To: References: <751d05481003100823p13f4eab1oc784c765fda3a5a7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: There is a long and sordid history of miracle improvements to the automobile engine that for some reason never came to pass. Over on the joke list someone posted a link to all the issues of Popular Science the other day. I would be willing to bet that if you name any year between say 1950 and now, I can find at least 2 stories of some marvelous new wrinkle to the automotive engine that never made it into production by any car maker. With this history, there is no reason not to be leery of the linked article. My BS is in detecting BS and there are several things in the linked article that should have any half way skeptical reader's bullshit meter beeping and flashing a red light. for example the name of company "Transonic Engineering" Wow sounds fast. "improve the efficiency of gasoline engines by more than 50 percent." OK from burning fuel you get heat and power. To get 50% more power from a unit volume of fuel, you need to produce a lot less heat. How do you burn gasoline with out heat? "The key is heating and pressurizing gasoline before injecting it into the combustion chamber, says Mike Rocke, Transonic's vice president of business development. This puts it into a supercritical state" first off why are we hearing from a VP of business development, and not an engineer? Secondly if you are running a diesel direct injection engine, you have to pressurize the fuel in order to inject it. On a normally aspirated diesel you are talking about 30-55 bar of pressure. The heating is new, but I doubt it is anything but fluff. A supercritical state? WTF is that? You will have to excuse me, but the needle on my bullshit meter just hit the pin so hard it sheared the pin off spun around twice more before it flew off hit the glass face and broke it. "The company also treats the gasoline with a catalyst that "activates" it, partially oxidizing it to enhance combustion." Oh Jesus Christ that sentence just blew my back up meter into a hundred pieces. What next? A magnet for the fuel line? (Something that was sold to car owner about 20 years ago to align the gas molecules before they went into the engine. I shit you not. Want to go on? I got $50 bucks that says no 2014 cars have this engine in them (claim in the article). Hell I will will sweeten the deal, I bet no 2015 cars have it. Any takers? Rick From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 10 21:56:09 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 12:56:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection Technology In-Reply-To: References: <751d05481003100823p13f4eab1oc784c765fda3a5a7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: > Rick - > > Actually, this is much different than the magnets in the line classified ad > we've all come to know and love... but I know what you mean. > > Matter that is in a "Supercritical" state is actually something quite real. > Depending on temperature and pressure, you can put fluids into gaseous or > solid states well outside of their standard parameters. Frozen CO2 is an > example of a material that exists well under it's "critical" pressure at 1 > ATM - regardless of temperature it can't exist in fluid state, it will > either be solid (if cold) or gas ( if warm). You have to add pressure to > get it in a fluid state. > > If you play with the input pressure/temperature and inject into the piston, > you could easily create a set of circumstances where the petrol instantly > turns to vapor rather than having to be atomized like a normal EFI system. > For example if they heat the fuel to a very high temperature, but apply > something like 20 ATM to keep it fluid, when you inject it into a compressed > piston at 10 ATM it could instantly vaporize. I think there is alot to be > said about what this guy is talking about: > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Critical_point_(thermodynamics) > > And because the combustion happens so late in the cycle (and finishes early > in the cycle), you can really reduce heat losses with his system. > > Yes, you are right that this could be BS, but the general science behind > what he is talking about is very real. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Thu Mar 11 10:02:49 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 11:02:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? Message-ID: <48720d21003110902m4ed6ec6dw4d4210dde38d4fc9@mail.gmail.com> As part of the decision to add a quick rack to my MGC I Googled and came up with an article by a man called Bruce Ibbotson of Australia. It tells of all the fun he had spending a ton of money making his MGC into a real car. It is a fun article if you have any interest. In the article he makes the statement "*(MG and Austin heads are identical except for the colour, greenish for the C, black for the Austin.)*" I fist thought he was referring to the 3000, but the color of my BT7 engine was green. Also, the last Big Healeys had larger carburetors so the intake ports would have to be larger in their heads. Any help in clarification? Would my spare C head really work with my BT7? The article tells of all sorts of things to make the C better. Too bad I didn't think of shaving the flywheel when the engine was out for clutch work. I will check behind the water pump to see if the flashing that blocks the water passage is there. His was one of the first, mine is one of the last so there might not be a problem. I have never heard of the company referred to as anything but British Leyland here. Perhaps in calling it BLMC, he is taking poetic license so that he can call the company Bloody Lousy Motor Corporation. Be nice if my spare head worked for both cars. Jack From shop at justbrits.com Thu Mar 11 10:48:54 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 11:48:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? In-Reply-To: <48720d21003110902m4ed6ec6dw4d4210dde38d4fc9@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d21003110902m4ed6ec6dw4d4210dde38d4fc9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B992D06.2090102@justbrits.com> << As part of the decision to add a quick rack to my MGC I Googled and came up with an article by a man called Bruce Ibbotson of Australia. >> And why, just to be courteous, didn't you include a link to the article Jack, instead of making everybody re-do your search ?? And with NO guarantee that the exact same article would come up?!? Ed From jstmorris at yahoo.com Thu Mar 11 11:03:59 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 10:03:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] 1947 Healey Elliott For Sale Message-ID: <689020.28464.qm@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Check out this Elliott that is up for sale at the H&H auction this coming weekend. It seems to have quite a race history. http://www.classic-auctions.com/lotdetail.php?lotid=28790&aucid=29375 or http://tinyurl.com/y9wb82k --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives __________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com. From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Mar 11 11:06:42 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:06:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? In-Reply-To: <4B992D06.2090102@justbrits.com> References: <48720d21003110902m4ed6ec6dw4d4210dde38d4fc9@mail.gmail.com> <4B992D06.2090102@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <00e501cac145$9b6cbf60$d2463e20$@net> Probably here: http://www.mgccq.org.au/tech.htm and click on "Page 10" which is a long article in PDF. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 12:49 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? << As part of the decision to add a quick rack to my MGC I Googled and came up with an article by a man called Bruce Ibbotson of Australia. >> And why, just to be courteous, didn't you include a link to the article Jack, instead of making everybody re-do your search ?? And with NO guarantee that the exact same article would come up?!? Ed _______________________________________________ From jstmorris at yahoo.com Thu Mar 11 11:36:31 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 10:36:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: UNIVERSITY MOTORS RESTORED Message-ID: <651667.43833.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This notice just came in and I thought you would be interested in the reawakening of University Motors. Excellent news. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Thu, 3/11/10, MG Toronto wrote: From: MG Toronto Subject: UNIVERSITY MOTORS RESTORED To: "'J. Scott Morris'" jstmorris at yahoo.com, Received: Thursday, March 11, 2010, 12:14 PM FYI - Cut & Paste from the the MG Experience. UNIVERSITY MOTORS RESTORED John Twist Ada Michigan, USA Mar 09, 2010 07:32AM When, nearly one year ago, as the Michigan economy was collapsing and my wife Caroline's health failing, we had no option but to cease fulltime business. During the following seven months I cared for Caroline as the cancer sapped her strength, but never her will. Spending increasingly greater time with her at home, I simply could not attend to business. We sent notices to our customers thanking them for their years of support. We sent notices to our suppliers; we discharged our employees with severance; we had an auction to sell off shop equipment and MG memorabilia. Caroline died in January. As I pondered my future, I could not escape the undeniable fact: MG is my destiny. We are now re-awakening University Motors. My son, Brooks, has taken his mother Caroline's place in the office, we have two of our original mechanics back at work, and we are working to re-invigorate University Motors. We offer bench, line, and restoration services, as well as MG education via DVDs and technical seminars, on-site and off-site. Our new website will be online soon. We are not yet at speed but we are on the entrance ramp to full time business. Our old advertisements read: A lifelong dedication to the marque. That statement is as true today as it was when we first used it. Thanks to all who have supported us through this very dismal and heartrending time. We hope to be of service to you during your MG ownership. John Twist Brooks Twist University Motors Ltd __________________________________________________________________ The new Internet Explorer. 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/ From pdzwig at summaventures.com Thu Mar 11 12:26:16 2010 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 19:26:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? In-Reply-To: <48720d21003110902m4ed6ec6dw4d4210dde38d4fc9@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d21003110902m4ed6ec6dw4d4210dde38d4fc9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B9943D8.9020807@summaventures.com> Jack, I doubt that the heads are interchangeable. To be precise: "...the 2912cc C-series engine fitted to Austin-Healey 3000s could not be fitted to the car...Th 'new' 2912cc six-cylinder engine developed specifically for the MGC, and for the ADO61 Austin 3-litre, was shorter, alittle lighter and somewhat more compact than before - but it was still a bulky unit" - from The Mighty MGs, Graham Robson, 1982 (Pub: David and Charles) in other words it's a different engine. But he goes on to say that "the Type 29G engine wsa very similar to the ADO61 Austin 3-litre...the most knowledgeable MGC enthusiasts often by the remains of an Austin 3-litre enge [ie ADO61 engine]. The main features such as the cast iron block and head are common..." Maybe that is the source of the confusion. Early Healey engines had green heads often, but they are a LOT earlier than the MGC and definitely than the post 68 ADO61. Yes, it was called BLMC. It was BMC in the fifties then in the later sixties became British Motor Holdings whem BMC merged with Jaguar and British Leyland Motor Corporation when it merged with Leyland, subsequently it got shortened to BLMC...and was known as British Leyland or BL then it sort of evaporated [I hope that I have got that lot in the right order] Peter Dzwig Jack Feldman wrote: > > As part of the decision to add a quick rack to my MGC I Googled and came up > > with an article by a man called Bruce Ibbotson of Australia.... ...In the article he makes the statement "*(MG and Austin heads are identical > > except for the colour, greenish for the C, black for the Austin.)*" I fist > > thought he was referring to the 3000, but the color of my BT7 engine was > > green. Also, the last Big Healeys had larger carburetors so the intake ports > > would have to be larger in their heads. > > > > Any help in clarification? Would my spare C head really work with my BT7? ... > > I have never heard of the company referred to as anything but British > > Leyland here. Perhaps in calling it BLMC, he is taking poetic license so > > that he can call the company Bloody Lousy Motor Corporation. -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From bispmotala at hotmail.com Thu Mar 11 13:21:07 2010 From: bispmotala at hotmail.com (bispmotala) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:21:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? In-Reply-To: <48720d21003110902m4ed6ec6dw4d4210dde38d4fc9@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d21003110902m4ed6ec6dw4d4210dde38d4fc9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Jack Without reading the article I am pretty certain that the reference to Austin does not mean Austin-Healey 3000. The heads are different. BUT the MGC and the Austin 3 litre heads are the same. The Austin 3 litre differs from the Austin Westminster/Wolseley 6/110 and similar. Clear?? Beast regards Sven Sweden MGC and Austin Healet 3000 mk 3. -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- Fren: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Fvr Jack Feldman Skickat: den 11 mars 2010 18:03 Till: healeys at autox.team.net Dmne: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? As part of the decision to add a quick rack to my MGC I Googled and came up with an article by a man called Bruce Ibbotson of Australia. It tells of all the fun he had spending a ton of money making his MGC into a real car. It is a fun article if you have any interest. In the article he makes the statement "*(MG and Austin heads are identical except for the colour, greenish for the C, black for the Austin.)*" I fist thought he was referring to the 3000, but the color of my BT7 engine was green. Also, the last Big Healeys had larger carburetors so the intake ports would have to be larger in their heads. Any help in clarification? Would my spare C head really work with my BT7? The article tells of all sorts of things to make the C better. Too bad I didn't think of shaving the flywheel when the engine was out for clutch work. I will check behind the water pump to see if the flashing that blocks the water passage is there. His was one of the first, mine is one of the last so there might not be a problem. I have never heard of the company referred to as anything but British Leyland here. Perhaps in calling it BLMC, he is taking poetic license so that he can call the company Bloody Lousy Motor Corporation. Be nice if my spare head worked for both cars. Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bispmotala at hotmail.com From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Thu Mar 11 14:12:23 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 15:12:23 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? Message-ID: <48720d21003111312g7ef68237k1b80821f99b71810@mail.gmail.com> Ed, Sorry to make you unhappy, but there are several reasons for not listing the URL. 1. I downloaded the article, and no longer needed the URL. 2. This is an Austin Healey List. 3. John Sim managed to find it. My apology for seeming discourteous. Thanks for keeping us honest. Jack And why, just to be courteous, didn't you include a link to the article Jack, instead of making everybody re-do your search ?? And with NO guarantee that the exact same article would come up?!? Ed From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Thu Mar 11 14:16:11 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:16:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? In-Reply-To: <48720d21003111312g7ef68237k1b80821f99b71810@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d21003111312g7ef68237k1b80821f99b71810@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Boy, I sure I hope this ends here... Bob Johnson BJ8 > > Sorry to make you unhappy, but there are several reasons for not listing the > URL. > > 1. I downloaded the article, and no longer needed the URL. > 2. This is an Austin Healey List. > 3. John Sim managed to find it. > > My apology for seeming discourteous. > > Thanks for keeping us honest. > > Jack > > > And why, just to be courteous, didn't you include > a link to the article Jack, instead of making > everybody re-do your search ?? And with NO > guarantee that the exact same article would come > up?!? > > Ed From britishcars at shaw.ca Thu Mar 11 15:25:22 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:25:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flex-a-lite fans Message-ID: <6F84173A39BF4724A73F41E9D4DEF2E2@PaulPC> Has anybody out there installed an aluminum fan? If so, what size spacer did you use? Thanks Paul From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Thu Mar 11 16:30:51 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 18:30:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Product for manifold studs? Message-ID: Anyone recall the product's name that someone used on a questionable manifold stud? Checked archives, but couldn't find it. Thanks, Shawn The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Mar 11 16:51:28 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 18:51:28 EST Subject: [Healeys] Title HIstory Message-ID: <4be33.6c66e8a7.38cadc00@aol.com> I saw this on the DMV.CA.GOV website today, posted just last month. I don't know how far back that data base goes, but it might provide a little bit of past history on your Healey title. If anyone tries it let us know what you find. Cheers Gary Anderson Sacramento b The California Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) announced today that its vehicle title history and brand information is now available to consumers through the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS). The database greatly improves the tracking of vehicles across state lines for law enforcement and motor vehicle agencies. It also allows consumers to learn about the history of a vehicle prior to making a purchase. DMV Director George Valverde said California is supportive of NMVTIS, and sees it as another valuable tool for consumer protection. "We are delighted that prospective purchasers of vehicles can now access title and brand information on the millions of updated vehicle records California provides to the NMVTIS database." California is one of 31 states now participating in NMVTIS, which was established by federal law in 1992 as a major tool to combat rampant nationwide vehicle theft and fraud. According to statistics released earlier this year, 1.3 million vehicles are stolen in the 50 states each year, with losses to consumers totaling more than $8 billion. NMVTIS records are available at http://www.vehiclehistory.gov by providing a vehicle identification number and paying a nominal fee. NMVTIS is operated on behalf of the U.S. Dept. of Justice by the American Association of Motor Vehicle Administrators (AAMVA). Several entities are required to regularly report information to NMVTIS, including: State motor vehicle agencies; Insurance carriers (including some self-insuring entities); and, auto recyclers and salvage yards. From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Mar 11 18:14:53 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 17:14:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] healey 100s in Octane magazine Message-ID: <173126441003111714i6a4833aap2823195fb8e359e2@mail.gmail.com> Great article on the Green Healey 100S in Octane Magazine. what an amazing magazine. Ever issue is well written, great photos -- I Erbs Portland, OR From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Mar 11 20:00:20 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 11:00:20 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flex-a-lite fans In-Reply-To: <6F84173A39BF4724A73F41E9D4DEF2E2@PaulPC> References: <6F84173A39BF4724A73F41E9D4DEF2E2@PaulPC> Message-ID: Paul - If on a six cylinder, you don't need a spacer. If on the 100, the spacer should be about 3/8" thick to clear the center nut on the water pump. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 6:25 AM, PG wrote: > Has anybody out there installed an aluminum fan? If so, what size spacer > did you use? > > > > Thanks > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From norman.hendry at shaw.ca Thu Mar 11 20:03:42 2010 From: norman.hendry at shaw.ca (Norman) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 20:03:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? Message-ID: Hello Jack, In response to your comment; " I have never heard of the company referred to as anything but British Leyland here. Perhaps in calling it BLMC, he is taking poetic license so that he can call the company Bloody Lousy Motor Corporation." BLMC was created in 1968 by the merger of British Motor Holdings (BMH) and Leyland Motor Corporation (LMC), encouraged by Tony Benn as chairman of the Industrial Reorganisation Committee created by the Wilson Labour Government (1964-1970). At the time, LMC was a successful manufacturer, while BMH was perilously close to collapse. The Government was hopeful LMC's expertise would revive the ailing BMH. The merger combined most of the remaining independent British car manufacturing companies and included car, bus and truck manufacturers and more diverse enterprises including construction equipment, refrigerators, metal casting companies, road surface manufacturers; in all, nearly 100 different companies. The new corporation was arranged into seven divisions under its new chairman, Sir Donald Stokes (formerly the chairman of LMC. Norman From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Mar 11 22:17:36 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:17:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Product for manifold studs? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <751d05481003112117q3e76f35bv49f1f858ccb48adb@mail.gmail.com> Shawn, What is it you want to do with this questionable manifold stud? Curt On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 3:30 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > Anyone recall the product's name that someone used on a questionable > manifold > stud? Checked archives, but couldn't find it. Thanks, Shawn > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Mar 11 23:31:33 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:31:33 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Product for manifold studs? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think you mean Helicoil thread inserts. You know, I think there may be another solution. XKs Unlimited in San Luis Obispo sells an oversize exhaust stud which protrudes at a standard size. The studs on a Jag XK Motor and the Austin Motor are basically the same: Go here: http://www.xks.com/jaguar/catalog/pdf/JaguarCatVol15_197_209.pdf and look at part number C2369/1 on page 197. If the shank's too long you can run a die on it, but I think it should be ok. Only $4. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 7:30 AM, S and T Miller wrote: > Anyone recall the product's name that someone used on a questionable > manifold > stud? Checked archives, but couldn't find it. Thanks, Shawn > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Fri Mar 12 00:38:52 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 12 Mar 2010 08:38:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?measurement_windshield_BJ7/8?= Message-ID: Good morning, would anyone take a measurement on their BJ7/8 windshield for me, please? I need the distance between the upper egde of the windscreen to the center of the first screw holding the hook the toggle clamp assy attaches to. Thank you for your help. Eric From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Fri Mar 12 07:06:31 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 09:06:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Product for manifold studs? In-Reply-To: <751d05481003112117q3e76f35bv49f1f858ccb48adb@mail.gmail.com> References: , <751d05481003112117q3e76f35bv49f1f858ccb48adb@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Someone e-mailed and said it was Red locktight bearing formula. They used it for a bad manifold stud. I am considering using it for something else, nothing to do with a manifold stud. Just couldn't remember what they used. Thanks all. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:17:36 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Product for manifold studs? From: cnaarndt at gmail.com To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com CC: healeys at autox.team.net Shawn, What is it you want to do with this questionable manifold stud? Curt On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 3:30 PM, S and T Miller wrote: Anyone recall the product's name that someone used on a questionable manifold stud? Checked archives, but couldn't find it. Thanks, Shawn The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From tomleavy at comcast.net Fri Mar 12 07:18:10 2010 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:18:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? Message-ID: <1761191343.3645561268403490078.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Ed- Your nasty comments and snide remarks are not appreciated by anyone on the list. Nobody who makes the mistake of looking at your posts find anything of value. Instead, you continuously go after folks who are trying to accomplish something productive. You contribute nothing to this list but useless diatribe. You get a name change once in a while when you shot your mouth off so much that you get kicked off the list, but unfortunately, you always come slithering back. Do everybody a favor and stop posting your selfishly rude and inane comments. Stop embarassing yourself. Please. Tom From pdzwig at summaventures.com Fri Mar 12 07:53:02 2010 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:53:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] No earlier 3000 Message-ID: <4B9A554E.6050706@summaventures.com> This is a repost as this got bounced and only retrned to me today. I hope that I can still be of some help. I have re-edited it just a little so that it makes sense again. I built up a list of cars [ie cars with seeming 100/6 components but nominally at least 3000s]. It seems that there are a number of cars built around the time of the introduction of the 3000 that had 29D engines but used bits and badges from the 100/6. FWIW the earliest that I know about is Simon's and the latest candidate was shipped in August 59. See http://www.healeysix.net/BN7%20%26%20BT7.htm Interestingly all that I am aware of are left-hookers, but that may reflect the fact that most of what I know of comes from this liat and other US-oriented sources... As interesting is Country Life's dated ad 18th June that can be found at http://www.healeysix.net/periodads4.htm#WBEANCJ or the similar ad for Sports Cars Illustrated (US) for June 1959. Most listers are in the US so perhaps I should explain that Country Life is now, and was much more so in the 1950s, **the** magazine for the country set and the gentry: very much the sort of people BMC wanted to target in UK. It's not the sort of ad they would mess up on, not after the new model had been released three months earlier. The US market was crucial in earning valuable foreign currency it is surprising that they should be advertising the 100/6 there too. I find the whole thing an interesting reflection of how BMC was working at the time and therefore of British Industry as a whole. I can't offer a suggestion as to what was going on. I would like to believe in the "just using up the bits" scenario. The ads seems to suggest otherwise: ads are about building forward demand. If they were using up a lot of bits that would suggest that they had enough of them to supply at least some cars for (more than??) three months. Did BMC massively over-order or did they launch the new model earlier than previously planned? I would be delighted to hear from anyone who has one of these cars who hasn't already been in contact or from anyone who has more info. Was the original model designation to be 100/6 3-litre for example? Regards, Peter Dzwig -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From Michael.Weatherby at us.mwhglobal.com Fri Mar 12 08:05:25 2010 From: Michael.Weatherby at us.mwhglobal.com (Michael Weatherby) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:05:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Product for manifold studs? In-Reply-To: References: , <751d05481003112117q3e76f35bv49f1f858ccb48adb@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Shawn, This was posted for a loose rear stud problem. Not sure how it handles the heat of the manifold. Loctite makes just the product you need. Find some Loctite 640 http://www.amazon.com/Loctite$B!>(BSleeve$B!>(BRetainer$B!>(BStrength$ B!>(B37424/dp/B0002KKTIG which used to be labeled as "Stud and bearing mount" This stuff is designed to fill small voids in assembly and glue the parts into place. Assuming proper assembly (clean and dry parts) it is a very permanent repair. Rick Regards, Michael L. Weatherby, P.G. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T Miller Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 9:07 AM To: cnaarndt at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Product for manifold studs? Someone e-mailed and said it was Red locktight bearing formula. They used it for a bad manifold stud. I am considering using it for something else, nothing to do with a manifold stud. Just couldn't remember what they used. Thanks all. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:17:36 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Product for manifold studs? From: cnaarndt at gmail.com To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com CC: healeys at autox.team.net Shawn, What is it you want to do with this questionable manifold stud? Curt On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 3:30 PM, S and T Miller wrote: Anyone recall the product's name that someone used on a questionable manifold stud? Checked archives, but couldn't find it. Thanks, Shawn The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.weatherby at us.mwhglobal. com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Mar 12 08:44:24 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 07:44:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? In-Reply-To: <1761191343.3645561268403490078.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1761191343.3645561268403490078.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: While Ed can be cantankerous at times in this case I agree with him 100%. To post a question that directly refers to something found on line and then not include a link is (lazy/dumb/rude/stupid)(Pick one or all). Then to use the excuse that he had already downloaded, and as the author of the OP had no more need for the URL is a silly excuse. Of course the author of the OP had no more need for it, but what about all of us out here? He ass-sumes that all of us have downloaded it, or that we have nothing better to do with our time that to go search for it. I for one don't have that kind of extra time. I am guessing that Ed and a whole lot of other people don't either. $.02 Rick On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 6:18 AM, wrote: > Ed- > Your nasty comments and snide remarks are not appreciated by anyone on the > list. Nobody who makes the mistake of looking at your posts find anything of > value. Instead, you continuously go after folks who are trying to accomplish > something productive. > > > You contribute nothing to this list but useless diatribe. You get a name > change once in a while when you shot your mouth off so much that you get > kicked off the list, but unfortunately, you always come slithering back. Do > everybody a favor and stop posting your selfishly rude and inane comments. > > > Stop embarassing yourself. Please. > > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Mar 12 08:54:32 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:54:32 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? In-Reply-To: References: <1761191343.3645561268403490078.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <002001cac1fc$533b1220$f9b13660$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> A bit harsh? Let's move on. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: 12 March 2010 15:44 To: tomleavy at comcast.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC/3000 Heads the Same? While Ed can be cantankerous at times in this case I agree with him 100%. To post a question that directly refers to something found on line and then not include a link is (lazy/dumb/rude/stupid)(Pick one or all). Then to use the excuse that he had already downloaded, and as the author of the OP had no more need for the URL is a silly excuse. Of course the author of the OP had no more need for it, but what about all of us out here? He ass-sumes that all of us have downloaded it, or that we have nothing better to do with our time that to go search for it. I for one don't have that kind of extra time. I am guessing that Ed and a whole lot of other people don't either. $.02 Rick On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 6:18 AM, wrote: > Ed- > Your nasty comments and snide remarks are not appreciated by anyone on the > list. Nobody who makes the mistake of looking at your posts find anything of > value. Instead, you continuously go after folks who are trying to accomplish > something productive. > > > You contribute nothing to this list but useless diatribe. You get a name > change once in a while when you shot your mouth off so much that you get > kicked off the list, but unfortunately, you always come slithering back. Do > everybody a favor and stop posting your selfishly rude and inane comments. > > > Stop embarassing yourself. Please. > > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From geatros at shaw.ca Fri Mar 12 09:03:42 2010 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:03:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] NEIL IN NEW WESTMINSTER BC Contact me off the list Message-ID: <322522D6-E13A-4F9D-910D-8A45E66690F9@shaw.ca> Hi Neil , Could you contact me off the list please...I came to your home a couple of years ago and I've lost your phone number... Cheers Kenny Vancouver BC From medlabinc at msn.com Fri Mar 12 09:46:01 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:46:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Flex-a-lite fans Message-ID: Hi Paul: I installed a 'flex-fan' from BCS/Knocks a couple of years ago now. I used no spacer - thinking it would give a little additional space between the fan and radiator. It works well. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: PG To: 'healeys' Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 2:25 PM Subject: [Healeys] Flex-a-lite fans Has anybody out there installed an aluminum fan? If so, what size spacer did you use? Thanks Paul _______________________________________________ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Mar 12 10:57:34 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 12:57:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] measurement windshield BJ7/8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002201cac20d$7ed71a30$7c854e90$@rr.com> Eric, I measure it as 2.15 inches. Photo is attached. If not what you were looking for, please get back to me. The fastener is not a screw, but a rivet. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lists Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 2:39 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] measurement windshield BJ7/8 Good morning, would anyone take a measurement on their BJ7/8 windshield for me, please? I need the distance between the upper egde of the windscreen to the center of the first screw holding the hook the toggle clamp assy attaches to. Thank you for your help. Eric [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1707.jpg] From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Mar 12 11:35:11 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:35:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Title HIstory In-Reply-To: <4be33.6c66e8a7.38cadc00@aol.com> References: <4be33.6c66e8a7.38cadc00@aol.com> Message-ID: <002d01cac212$c02c5090$4084f1b0$@rr.com> Gary, California DMV has told me they have records on inactive vehicle registrations going back only 4 years. Most states have also destroyed their older records and have them now for only 10 or 12 years back, with some few exceptions like North Carolina (back to 1964). I wonder how the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System interacts with the Federal Driver's Privacy Protection Act that prohibits state DMVs from releasing any names or addresses of previous owners, even to the current owner of the car? Perhaps "title history" as used by NMVTIS means something different than an identification of previous owners of the car? Maybe it just tells you whether the car has been reported stolen, or damaged in a flood or fire, etc. Yes, if anyone tries it please let us know what happens. Almost all of us are interested in the past history of our cars. Because there are no other resources to allow that to be known, I try in the BJ8 registry to document as much "ownership history" on each car as can be known. Most of that has to come from the individual owners. If what they know is not recorded somewhere, it will be lost when they are gone. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 6:51 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Title HIstory I saw this on the DMV.CA.GOV website today, posted just last month. I don't know how far back that data base goes, but it might provide a little bit of past history on your Healey title. If anyone tries it let us know what you find. Cheers Gary Anderson Sacramento b The California Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) announced today that its vehicle title history and brand information is now available to consumers through the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS). The database greatly improves the tracking of vehicles across state lines for law enforcement and motor vehicle agencies. It also allows consumers to learn about the history of a vehicle prior to making a purchase. From pieters at pt.lu Fri Mar 12 12:39:01 2010 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:39:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Title HIstory In-Reply-To: <002d01cac212$c02c5090$4084f1b0$@rr.com> References: <4be33.6c66e8a7.38cadc00@aol.com> <002d01cac212$c02c5090$4084f1b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <3B8DADE9-099E-4821-B999-8337E4A868FC@pt.lu> > Since we're on the topic of vehicle history, does anybody out there > know any history of HBJ7L/ 23013 a white bj7 produced in 1963 ? cheers Pieter > I saw this on the DMV.CA.GOV website today, posted just last month. > I don't > know how far back that data base goes, but it might provide a little > bit of > past history on your Healey title. If anyone tries it let us know > what you > find. > Cheers > Gary Anderson > > Sacramento b The California Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) > announced > today that its vehicle title history and brand information is now > available > to > consumers through the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System > (NMVTIS). The database greatly improves the tracking of vehicles > across > state > lines for law enforcement and motor vehicle agencies. It also allows > consumers > to learn about the history of a vehicle prior to making a purchase. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pieters at pt.lu From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Mar 12 12:50:37 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:50:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Title HIstory In-Reply-To: <3B8DADE9-099E-4821-B999-8337E4A868FC@pt.lu> References: <4be33.6c66e8a7.38cadc00@aol.com> <002d01cac212$c02c5090$4084f1b0$@rr.com> <3B8DADE9-099E-4821-B999-8337E4A868FC@pt.lu> Message-ID: <003c01cac21d$4970f4a0$dc52dde0$@rr.com> Hi, Pieter - I believe the two possibilities are: 1) someone on the list recognizes the VIN and will remember the car. I don't think the probability of this is highly likely. 2) The BJ7 registry might have a record of it. You can check with Tom Blaskovics at tomkayb at comcast.net to see what information he may have. Whatever you already know about the history of your car (i.e., from whom you bought it and when and where) should be entered into the BJ7 registry if it's not already there. It's the only place to record and preserve the knowledge you have about your car's history, and some future owner may have more luck when they ask the same question ten or fifteen years from now. Good luck, and Happy Healeying! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From: Pieter and Linda [mailto:pieters at pt.lu] Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 2:39 PM To: BJ8 Healeys Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Title HIstory Since we're on the topic of vehicle history, does anybody out there know any history of HBJ7L/ 23013 a white bj7 produced in 1963 ? cheers Pieter From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 12 12:55:07 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:55:07 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Title HIstory In-Reply-To: <3B8DADE9-099E-4821-B999-8337E4A868FC@pt.lu> References: <4be33.6c66e8a7.38cadc00@aol.com> <002d01cac212$c02c5090$4084f1b0$@rr.com> <3B8DADE9-099E-4821-B999-8337E4A868FC@pt.lu> Message-ID: <4B9A9C1B.8060501@justbrits.com> << Since we're on the topic of vehicle history, does anybody out there know any history of HBJ7L/ 23013 a white bj7 produced in 1963 ? >> Have you checked with BJ-7 Registrar Tom Blaskovic, Pieter ?? I have his eMail someplace so if you can't find [look on British Car Forum maybe] let me know and I will dig it up !! Ed From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 12 13:00:29 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:00:29 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Title HIstory In-Reply-To: <3B8DADE9-099E-4821-B999-8337E4A868FC@pt.lu> References: <4be33.6c66e8a7.38cadc00@aol.com> <002d01cac212$c02c5090$4084f1b0$@rr.com> <3B8DADE9-099E-4821-B999-8337E4A868FC@pt.lu> Message-ID: <4B9A9D5D.3000002@justbrits.com> << ...HBJ7L/ 23013 a white bj7 produced in 1963 ? >> BTW, FWIW & FYI, "Hortense" was built 1 - 3 of March '63 and dispatched to U.S.A. [dealer] on March 12th. Dealer was in St. Louis, MO. Ed From willig at wtnet.de Fri Mar 12 13:18:51 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 21:18:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lamp rings with rivet Message-ID: <001201cac221$3b6c67f0$b24537d0$@de> Hello, does anybody know if someone sells the original type (the ones with a rivet on top) headlamp rims for the BN2? Thomas Willig From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 12 16:21:34 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:21:34 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] NEIL IN NEW WESTMINSTER BC Contact me off the list In-Reply-To: <322522D6-E13A-4F9D-910D-8A45E66690F9@shaw.ca> References: <322522D6-E13A-4F9D-910D-8A45E66690F9@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <4B9ACC7E.4070507@justbrits.com> Gents: << Could you contact me off the list please...I came to your home a couple of years ago and I've lost your phone number... >> When you want to know something like that, if you would just send a note "To:" healeys-request at autox.team.net with NO "Subject:" and just the word help you WILL get back a note which INCLUDES: who password [address=
] See the non-hidden members of this mailing list. The roster is limited to list members only, and you must supply your membership password to retrieve it. If you're posting from an address other than your membership address, specify your membership address with `address=
' (no brackets around the email address, and no quotes!). If you provide the list's admin or moderator password, hidden members will be included Of course, I am guessing NONE of you have retained the INSTRUCTIONS that came with your Confirmation note from MJB's program !!! And other things can be done by visiting your List Home Page - but you knew that - right ?!?!? Or further info ALSO comes in the Reply to your "Help" request/mail. Ed From linsley46 at gmail.com Fri Mar 12 16:30:34 2010 From: linsley46 at gmail.com (John McElrath) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 18:30:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge car parts Message-ID: Rich - I am not sure if you still need Longbridge car parts but I visited a shop today that had some parts from a car he had dismantled. I am not sure what he has but I know he had a good left hand door with the lock opening. I picked up a pair of Lucas sealed beams from a dismatled car from him today. He is looking for a set of orginal spark plug wires. We'll see. I probably will not have my car at Conclave this year. I was finishing the wiring when I discovered British Wiring sent me a harness without the heater motor wire. After trying to get them to respond I finally contacted the guy in England that makes the harness and he sent an email telling me they don't include that wire but I could buy another harness. It made not sense to me but after a few weeks I gave up and now will have to remove the harness - I should have checked this out first but having bought harnesses from British Wiring before and having sent them a copy of the Concours specs and my Heritage Certificate I could believe they could mess it up. So, now I am on to finding an alternative. I will try a couple of others and if nothing else will contact Rhode Island and see what they have. Thanks, John From s.hutchings at rogers.com Fri Mar 12 16:58:31 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 18:58:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge car parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm about to buy a harness....are you saying none of them have the heater wire? Stephen, BJ8 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Mar 12 19:46:14 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 21:46:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge car parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <695D50DE72F04B2A9AEA56E4E4E86DE9@LIFEBOOK> Gentlemen, Technically on the six cylinder harnesses there's the fan blower wire out in the engine bay running part way down the right side. In earlier cars, it's a green wire with brown tracer. In the car under the dash this green/brown wire will connect to the push/pull blower switch on one side and to a solid green wire on the other side of the switch. On later harnesses, substitute green wire with yellow tracer instead of the above. I have never seen a Healey wire harness that doesn't have these wires, no matter who it comes from. I've used harnesses from AH Spares, Autofarm, Moss, and British Wiring. They are always woven in to be an integral part of the harness. I cannot explain the lack of this wire in the harness you have unless you may be reading the schematic incorrectly. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Stephen Hutchings" Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 6:58 PM To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Longbridge car parts > I'm about to buy a harness....are you saying none of them have the heater > wire? > > Stephen, BJ8 From theswed at hotmail.com Fri Mar 12 21:08:12 2010 From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:08:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] '61 Healey For Sale Message-ID: I am preparing to sell my 1961 3000 BT-7 due to a divorce. Wanted to inquire on what I should ask for it. It was completely restored (frame off) approximately 5 years ago. The car is an original CA car that is nearly perfect (mechanically and cosmetically). Please contact me off the list for additional info. Kenny _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_1 From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Mar 12 21:38:29 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:38:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey lamp rings with rivet In-Reply-To: <001201cac221$3b6c67f0$b24537d0$@de> References: <001201cac221$3b6c67f0$b24537d0$@de> Message-ID: I got mine from British Car Specialist in Stockton CA. Rich Kahn > From: willig at wtnet.de > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 21:18:51 +0100 > Subject: [Healeys] Healey lamp rings with rivet > > Hello, > > > > does anybody know if someone sells the original type (the ones with a rivet > on top) headlamp rims for the BN2? > > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ From line.brisson at cgocable.ca Sat Mar 13 14:58:13 2010 From: line.brisson at cgocable.ca (Line Cogeco) Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 16:58:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 M at amelia Message-ID: <09AE509C-E92A-4CE6-84E0-D7CF976CEDA2@cgocable.ca> I wonder if someone saw how the M went for ? line From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Sat Mar 13 17:00:08 2010 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:00:08 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] HEALEY DOES 195 MPH Message-ID: <4B9C2708.5060904@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Tony Ash who was at Bonnerville has just rung and given an overview of Steve and David Pikes excellant experience at Australia's salt lake, Lake Gardiner.. Official time 189 mph and the time recorded with a gps, 195 mph. Reid Trummel was present so I guess he will write the story up very soon. A great effort on only the team,s second trip to the salt with a 1954 car that between the wheel base is all Donald Healey based production items. Obviously Gerry Coker had an eye for speed as well as style. Congratulations to Steve ,David and Helen Pike. All done from a workshop base in Bacchus Marsh Australia. Joe From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Sat Mar 13 18:49:48 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:49:48 EST Subject: [Healeys] AHCA Facebook page Message-ID: <2e95a.47271e69.38cd9abc@aol.com> Future Fifty Founder Ben Moore has started a AHCA Facebook page at _http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=360732548931_ (http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=360732548931) The page is for all AHCA members or interested parties. Check it out and be one of the first to join! Jim Werner Louisville, KY From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 13 19:54:49 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:54:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] HEALEY DOES 195 MPH In-Reply-To: <4B9C2708.5060904@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> References: <4B9C2708.5060904@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: Boy oh boy, who needs a Bugatti Veyron??? Awesome!!! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 8:00 AM, Joe and Lenore Armour < sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote: > Tony Ash who was at Bonnerville has just rung and given an overview of > Steve and David Pikes excellant experience at Australia's salt lake, Lake > Gardiner.. Official time 189 mph and the time recorded with a gps, > 195 mph. > Reid Trummel was present so I guess he will write the story up very soon. > A great effort on only the team,s second trip to the salt with a 1954 car > that between the wheel base is all Donald Healey based production items. > Obviously Gerry Coker had an eye for speed as well as style. > > Congratulations to Steve ,David and Helen Pike. All done from a workshop > base in Bacchus Marsh Australia. > > Joe > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 13 19:56:13 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:56:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 24 Hours of LeMons Message-ID: Anyone go to this event at Sears Point? Looks like it could be great fun. Maybe I'll do it next year. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From lists at autox.team.net Sat Mar 13 20:10:13 2010 From: lists at autox.team.net (Team.Net) Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:10:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: overheating BN1] Message-ID: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> This was sent to me rather than healeys at autox.team.net mjb. -------- Original Message -------- Subject: overheating BN1 Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 18:57:18 -0600 From: Jess Power My 1954 AH 100/4 BN1 is still overheating despite recored radiater,new thermostat,aftermarket electric fan,jet hotted exhaust,new water pump.Not much water circulating in the radiater while running.Carbs have been synced.What should I do next? From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sat Mar 13 20:04:55 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 19:04:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] HEALEY DOES 195 MPH In-Reply-To: References: <4B9C2708.5060904@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: My son just wrote an insurance policy for a Bugatti Veyron. The owner let him drive it. He came home and told me he's spoiled for any other car he drives now. The owner also owns four Murcielagos (is that plural for 4 of them?). I'm impressed. But, 195 in a Healey with 1950's tech, WOW! Mike MacLean 56 BN2 (lucky if it will get to 110 mph) 60 AN5 (gets squirrely at 85 mph) On Sat, Mar 13, 2010 at 6:54 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Boy oh boy, who needs a Bugatti Veyron??? > > Awesome!!! > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 13 20:16:12 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:16:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: overheating BN1] In-Reply-To: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> References: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Jess - Have you tried running the car without the thermostat? Take it out, it is pretty easy to remove, and see if you still have an overheating problem? Could be a bad thermostat, common problem. Also, have you tried the putting the temp gauge bulb in a pot of boiling water and see what it reads? You gauge could be reading too high, very common. Your BN1 should run very cool. My A90 (same engine & radiator) in Hong Kong never overheats, even in traffic, and it is hot here. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 11:10 AM, Team.Net wrote: > This was sent to me rather than healeys at autox.team.net > > mjb. > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: overheating BN1 > Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 18:57:18 -0600 > From: Jess Power > > > > > > My 1954 AH 100/4 BN1 is still overheating despite recored radiater,new > thermostat,aftermarket electric fan,jet hotted exhaust,new water pump.Not > much water circulating in the radiater while running.Carbs have been > synced.What should I do next? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From price at advocateadvisors.com Sat Mar 13 20:21:11 2010 From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 21:21:11 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: overheating BN1] In-Reply-To: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> References: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Has the block been flushed out? Price Lindsay (630) 841-6300 M (312) 753-7706 T Sent from my iPhone On Mar 13, 2010, at 9:03 PM, "Team.Net" wrote: > This was sent to me rather than healeys at autox.team.net > > mjb. > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: overheating BN1 > Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 18:57:18 -0600 > From: Jess Power > > > > > > My 1954 AH 100/4 BN1 is still overheating despite recored > radiater,new thermostat,aftermarket electric fan,jet hotted > exhaust,new water pump.Not much water circulating in the radiater > while running.Carbs have been synced.What should I do next? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/price at advocateadvisors.com From acmiller at mhcable.com Sat Mar 13 21:20:52 2010 From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr) Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:20:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 hardtop questions Message-ID: Hello listers I have bought a rather good used hardtop with a large plexiglas rear window. I wonder if anyone can help identify the maker on the strength of its having two square 'ridges' about 5 to 6 inches in width over each occupant's head, about 1" high at the back and faring down to flush at the front. It has an aluminum moulding like the later factory pieces, and a rubber seal. there is a hole at lowpoint over the rear pillars of the door shuts. the top has no liner, and does not appear to have ever been drilled in the aluminum trim to receive the factory hardtop style of front toggle fasteners. I wonder if anyone has a similar top, with the hardware fitted. I assume that I can adapt the presently available rear hook and plates (e.g., those available from Cape Healey), but am clueless how to hold down the front with clamp-style j-hooks of either of the later 3000 hardtop versions. What does the 'j' hook into on the 100-4 pillar? It appears that the clamp, mounted as in later hardtops, would pass the j-hook against the inside of the pillar, and the 100-4 posts do not have anything to clamp onto from that side; only the knobs on the exterior. if anyone has a photograph of a successful hardware setup i would appreciate a picture or general description. as i am going to race the car, i need to hold the top down with greater than usual clamping along the front edge. surprisingly, it appears that with a racing seat, a rollbar can be fitted inside the hardtop perimeter with the requisite 2" clearance over helmet, albeit just barely, as this top is a bit taller than other 100-4 tops i've seen.part of the clearance comes from the seat being mounted directly to the floor, and having a 12-degree angle of recline, which allows me to sit quite low. any information would be appreciated. thanks, allen miller bn2-m From acmiller at mhcable.com Sat Mar 13 21:21:52 2010 From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr) Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:21:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 hardtop questions Message-ID: <42A33FD9C33C4932A053812A6A112C81@ACM030> Hello listers I have bought a rather good used hardtop with a large plexiglas rear window. I wonder if anyone can help identify the maker on the strength of its having two square 'ridges' about 5 to 6 inches in width over each occupant's head, about 1" high at the back and faring down to flush at the front. It has an aluminum moulding like the later factory pieces, and a rubber seal. there is a hole at lowpoint over the rear pillars of the door shuts. the top has no liner, and does not appear to have ever been drilled in the aluminum trim to receive the factory hardtop style of front toggle fasteners. I wonder if anyone has a similar top, with the hardware fitted. I assume that I can adapt the presently available rear hook and plates (e.g., those available from Cape Healey), but am clueless how to hold down the front with clamp-style j-hooks of either of the later 3000 hardtop versions. What does the 'j' hook into on the 100-4 pillar? It appears that the clamp, mounted as in later hardtops, would pass the j-hook against the inside of the pillar, and the 100-4 posts do not have anything to clamp onto from that side; only the knobs on the exterior. if anyone has a photograph of a successful hardware setup i would appreciate a picture or general description. as i am going to race the car, i need to hold the top down with greater than usual clamping along the front edge. surprisingly, it appears that with a racing seat, a rollbar can be fitted inside the hardtop perimeter with the requisite 2" clearance over helmet, albeit just barely, as this top is a bit taller than other 100-4 tops i've seen.part of the clearance comes from the seat being mounted directly to the floor, and having a 12-degree angle of recline, which allows me to sit quite low. any information would be appreciated. thanks, allen miller bn2-m From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Mar 14 02:23:24 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:23:24 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: overheating BN1] In-Reply-To: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> References: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4B9CAB0C.1010806@chello.nl> There are a few things to check: Temperature gauge for accuracy in a pan with boiling water (100 degrees C) Ignition timing Fuel/air mixture at high rpm/load, a lean mixture will cause overheating Scale/debris in engines water ways, if so the head (and block (to a lesser extend) should be cleaned out professionally. This is not a very common problem but can arise when water in stead of coolant has been used in the past, clogging up waterways in the head casting, especially if the head casting is aluminium. Collapsed hoses Is the proper sleeved thermostat fitted? Not so much opening temperature, which would not be a cause for overheating, but does it open at all when immersed in a pan of boiling water. Is it the correct Lucas 85025? If not, fit a sleeve for the bypass if you cannot get hold of the proper thermostat. Does the car still overheat with the heating and blower fan full on. My first actions would be checking the gauge and thermostat/sleeve. Kees Oudesluijs NL Team.Net schreef: > This was sent to me rather than healeys at autox.team.net > > mjb. > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: overheating BN1 > Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 18:57:18 -0600 > From: Jess Power > > > > > > My 1954 AH 100/4 BN1 is still overheating despite recored > radiater,new thermostat,aftermarket electric fan,jet hotted > exhaust,new water pump.Not much water circulating in the radiater > while running.Carbs have been synced.What should I do next? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.790 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2743 - datum van uitgifte: 03/13/10 08:33:00 From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Mar 14 04:40:35 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:40:35 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: overheating BN1] In-Reply-To: <4B9CAB0C.1010806@chello.nl> References: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> <4B9CAB0C.1010806@chello.nl> Message-ID: <000c01cac36b$295b5990$7c120cb0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Thought I'd read somewhere that 4 cyl cars didn't have bypass, thus no need for sleeve. I've got a 6 cyl so maybe should stick to what I know! Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: 14 March 2010 09:23 To: Team.Net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Fwd: overheating BN1] There are a few things to check: Temperature gauge for accuracy in a pan with boiling water (100 degrees C) Ignition timing Fuel/air mixture at high rpm/load, a lean mixture will cause overheating Scale/debris in engines water ways, if so the head (and block (to a lesser extend) should be cleaned out professionally. This is not a very common problem but can arise when water in stead of coolant has been used in the past, clogging up waterways in the head casting, especially if the head casting is aluminium. Collapsed hoses Is the proper sleeved thermostat fitted? Not so much opening temperature, which would not be a cause for overheating, but does it open at all when immersed in a pan of boiling water. Is it the correct Lucas 85025? If not, fit a sleeve for the bypass if you cannot get hold of the proper thermostat. Does the car still overheat with the heating and blower fan full on. My first actions would be checking the gauge and thermostat/sleeve. Kees Oudesluijs NL Team.Net schreef: > This was sent to me rather than healeys at autox.team.net > > mjb. > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: overheating BN1 > Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 18:57:18 -0600 > From: Jess Power > > > > > > My 1954 AH 100/4 BN1 is still overheating despite recored > radiater,new thermostat,aftermarket electric fan,jet hotted > exhaust,new water pump.Not much water circulating in the radiater > while running.Carbs have been synced.What should I do next? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.790 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2743 - datum van uitgifte: 03/13/10 08:33:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Mar 14 05:47:41 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 23:47:41 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: overheating BN1] In-Reply-To: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> References: <4B9C5395.20303@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <5DA225EB-4FB2-4348-A4C1-AB6F2AA69067@gmail.com> Take the thermatic fan off. It blocks the airflow. I've lost count of the number of times I've seen this. Take it off. Air can't flow through your radiator if you bolt on slow spinning fans that block the airflow. I once boiled a bugeye sprite at minus 5 degrees driving from Jindabyne to Thredbo at 2.00 Am in the middle of winter. Removed the fan on the outside of the radiator.... Problem solved. Never overheated again. Ask Geoff Leake. 100/4 winner in the USA v Au challenge. Boiled his car at Bathurst, yet Cool as a cucumber in a parade. Removed the fan....... Problem solved.... Air flow cools radiators... Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 14/03/2010, at 2:10 PM, "Team.Net" wrote: > This was sent to me rather than healeys at autox.team.net > > mjb. > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: overheating BN1 > Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 18:57:18 -0600 > From: Jess Power > > > > > > My 1954 AH 100/4 BN1 is still overheating despite recored > radiater,new thermostat,aftermarket electric fan,jet hotted > exhaust,new water pump.Not much water circulating in the radiater > while running.Carbs have been synced.What should I do next? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From bighealey at charter.net Sun Mar 14 06:17:59 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 06:17:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 24 Hours of LeMons In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <0185D9887BE8414CAC1E6C662516AB34@TRACY> Alan, We are putting together a team. Are you interested in joining? Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 6:56 PM To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] 24 Hours of LeMons Anyone go to this event at Sears Point? Looks like it could be great fun. Maybe I'll do it next year. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net From willig at wtnet.de Sun Mar 14 06:49:37 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 14:49:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- Message-ID: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> I have fitted a DW alum sump to my 100 and I wonder if I have to recalibrate the oils dipstick. Is that necessary? What did other owners do? I am afraid that I am going to overfill the sump, if I add the recommended quantity of engine oil. Your advise is urgently needed. Thomas Willig From logical2 at hotmail.com Sun Mar 14 06:53:35 2010 From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 13:53:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 7 choke Message-ID: Finally started my engine after many years and a rebuild. I noticed that when you push the choke knob back in the choke plates stay in the choked position. The only springs I see are the two on the sides of the carbs and these are obviously not returning the plates to the non- choked position. Are there supposed to be more springs or am I missing something else? Thanks for your help. 62' BJ7 61' Bugeye 69' Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun Mar 14 07:12:31 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 07:12:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Calif Black Plate Message-ID: Thanks to all who helped. I got my tags to go on the license plate after a long battle with the DMV. I wore them down. It took since last July. Again thanks. It feels good to win one from the big guys. Rich Kahn _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ From warthodson at aol.com Sun Mar 14 07:14:10 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:14:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: 100 with DW aluminum sump- In-Reply-To: <8CC919796A53062-4B10-18FCB@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com> References: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> <8CC919796A53062-4B10-18FCB@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CC9197C08D8582-4B10-18FE8@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com> Simply begin refilling it & check the level frequently as you fill. When the dip stick reads full, stop. You may have to add a few quarts, give them adequate time to drain down into the sump, then check the level. Continue doing this until full. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: T+ B Willig To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2010 8:49 am Subject: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- I have fitted a DW alum sump to my 100 and I wonder if I have to recalibrate he oils dipstick. Is that necessary? What did other owners do? I am afraid hat I am going to overfill the sump, if I add the recommended quantity of ngine oil. Your advise is urgently needed. Thomas Willig ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From willig at wtnet.de Sun Mar 14 07:43:55 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 15:43:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- In-Reply-To: References: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> Message-ID: <001001cac384$c62f2bc0$528d8340$@de> Chris, Denis did not mention this topic in his instruction sheet...I might be a bit too cautious, but as the wall thicknesses of the alu sump are far bigger than of the pressed steel, original, sump, I fear that the oil level gets too high in the sump (?), causing the crank to foam up the oil. Should I reduce the oil quantity?? Thomas -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] Gesendet: Sonntag, 14. Mdrz 2010 15:00 An: T+ B Willig Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- Nah. Thomas. Denis already thought of that, if any of his other much more complex products are any guide; and he didn't tell you otherwise in his instructions. Otherwise, put the prescribed amount of oil in your old sump; then pour it into your engine and check the dipstick. And remember that US litres aren't Imperial litres. And make sure your oil filter is full. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 15/03/2010, at 12:49 AM, "T+ B Willig" wrote: > I have fitted a DW alum sump to my 100 and I wonder if I have to > recalibrate > the oils dipstick. Is that necessary? What did other owners do? I am > afraid > that I am going to overfill the sump, if I add the recommended > quantity of > engine oil. > > Your advise is urgently needed. > > Thomas Willig > ___________________m From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Mar 14 08:15:25 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:15:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- In-Reply-To: <001001cac384$c62f2bc0$528d8340$@de> References: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> <001001cac384$c62f2bc0$528d8340$@de> Message-ID: I have no experience with the DW alloy sump for the Hundred, but I recently fitted one to a 3000. It was accompanied by a note stating that careful removal of 1/4" of material is needed on the bottom of the oil pump pick up tube, as the thickness of the bottom of the pan comes closer to the pick up. They state the screen will be almost on the bottom and this clearance will ensure adequate oil flow clearance. I was not impressed by having to mess around with this. Therefore it would seem that the bottom inside surface of the alloy sump is marginally shallower than stock. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 10:43 AM To: "'Chris Dimmock'" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- > Chris, > > Denis did not mention this topic in his instruction sheet...I might be a > bit > too cautious, but as the wall thicknesses of the alu sump are far bigger > than of the pressed steel, original, sump, I fear that the oil level gets > too high in the sump (?), causing the crank to foam up the oil. Should I > reduce the oil quantity?? > > Thomas > > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] > Gesendet: Sonntag, 14. Mdrz 2010 15:00 > An: T+ B Willig > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- > > Nah. Thomas. > Denis already thought of that, if any of his other much more complex > products are any guide; and he didn't tell you otherwise in his > instructions. > Otherwise, put the prescribed amount of oil in your old sump; then > pour it into your engine and check the dipstick. And remember that US > litres aren't Imperial litres. And make sure your oil filter is full. > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 15/03/2010, at 12:49 AM, "T+ B Willig" wrote: > >> I have fitted a DW alum sump to my 100 and I wonder if I have to >> recalibrate >> the oils dipstick. Is that necessary? What did other owners do? I am >> afraid >> that I am going to overfill the sump, if I add the recommended >> quantity of >> engine oil. >> >> Your advise is urgently needed. >> >> Thomas Willig >> ___________________m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Mar 14 08:43:41 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 08:43:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 7 choke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <939C244E6189401CA79E089A437B4FCE@PaulPC> A few years ago, there was a thread on this with a solution....I used it and it worked great. Take two small springs (I got mine out of a couple of pens) and insert them where the choke cables attach to the carb (one spring for each choke cable)...in a manner that the cables push against the carb choke levers. These springs will ensure that when you push the choke know in, the cables push away from the lever on the carb....works like a charm. Hard to describe but, once you look at the carb set-up, you'll see what I'm saying. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Edwards Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 6:54 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ 7 choke Finally started my engine after many years and a rebuild. I noticed that when you push the choke knob back in the choke plates stay in the choked position. The only springs I see are the two on the sides of the carbs and these are obviously not returning the plates to the non- choked position. Are there supposed to be more springs or am I missing something else? Thanks for your help. 62' BJ7 61' Bugeye 69' Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:W L :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Mar 14 12:26:23 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:26:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Calif Black Plate In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <173126441003141226l29bff491i5f0c08e18faee328@mail.gmail.com> congratulations, I have been trying to get a replacement title for my 2006 Toyota from the CAL. DMV for 4 months now. I'm from the government and I'm here to help! Ira On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 6:12 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > Thanks to all who helped. I got my tags to go on the license plate after a > long battle with the DMV. I wore them down. It took since last July. > Again thanks. It feels good to win one from the big guys. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft s powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Mar 14 12:34:37 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:34:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- In-Reply-To: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> References: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> Message-ID: <4B9D3A4D.6010304@chello.nl> Do not modify the dip stick or tube. The oil level compared to the crankshaft and/or oil pump should remain the same. You may have to fill up with more or less oil but keep the level as before so the recommended quantty of oil to fill up has now become invalid. Kees Oudesluijs NL T+ B Willig schreef: > I have fitted a DW alum sump to my 100 and I wonder if I have to recalibrate > the oils dipstick. Is that necessary? What did other owners do? I am afraid > that I am going to overfill the sump, if I add the recommended quantity of > engine oil. > > > > Your advise is urgently needed. > > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.790 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2746 - datum van uitgifte: 03/14/10 08:33:00 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Mar 14 12:43:00 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:43:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- In-Reply-To: <001001cac384$c62f2bc0$528d8340$@de> References: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> <001001cac384$c62f2bc0$528d8340$@de> Message-ID: <4B9D3C44.3060602@chello.nl> Hmmm, Imperial liters or US liters are the same. However there is a difference in Imperial or US gallons, 1 imperial gallon is about 1,2 US gallon. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs NL > And remember that US > litres aren't Imperial litres. And make sure your oil filter is full. > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.790 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2746 - datum van uitgifte: 03/14/10 08:33:00 From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Mar 14 13:13:55 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 16:13:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter Message-ID: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net> Folks, For those that have fitted K&N conical air filters to the HS-4 carbs (tri-carb), what did you do with the breather hose? I'd like to fit it to the backing plate of the rear filter, but not sure there's the room to install a 5/8" fitting between the carb dashpot and the rubber lip of the filter. Cheers, Bob From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Mar 14 13:42:25 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 07:42:25 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] RM Auctions Message-ID: <921C61B8735B40D2A7D093CFA3A50E06@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day For those who follow such things Bill Emerson's Healey Westland sold at the RM Auctions for a staggering US$159,500. An excellent result for anyone interested in real Healeys. A 100M was passed in at US$100,000, Sebring Sprite sold for US$44,000, Nash Healey Roadster sold for US$85,500 and an A90 Atlantic sold for US$41,250. It's at www.rmauctions.com Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From pieters at pt.lu Sun Mar 14 13:48:57 2010 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 21:48:57 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Le Mans Historics Message-ID: <99479E9D-27C0-4FED-9D4C-C79C3D5E2C4F@pt.lu> Hi All, Anybody planning on going to the Le Mans Historics in July? cheers Pieter From austinbj8 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 14 13:55:49 2010 From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 13:55:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] K and N filters to HD8 carbs Message-ID: <636103.65336.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Bob and others, two of us in the NE region that owned BJ8's had K and N filters installed. We had a hole drilled and then a small pipe welded onto the backing plate. This pipe did clear the dashpots and we were able to connect the breather hose. The plates that we had were made out of aluminum so you have to get a welder that knows how to handle that type of material. John From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Mar 14 14:52:34 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 17:52:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: AW: 100 with DW aluminum sump- Message-ID: -------------------------------------------------- From: "Rich C" Thomas, et al, I just took two measurements on a stock Hundred engine and have found the following: - total depth of stock undamaged oil pan 5 3/16" or 13.3 CM - length from bottom of oil sump to top of dipstick tube 13 3/4" or 35 CM Hope this helps, Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- > From: "T+ B Willig" > >> Rich, >> >> the sump for the hundred came exactly with the same instructions. In view >> of >> this I am afraid to fill the same amount of oil as used for the steel >> sump >> into the alu sump. >> >> The question is, what is the actual oil level in the steel sump in >> comparison to the bottom of the block? >> >> Maybe someone with a steel sump could measure the distance from the >> bottom >> of the sump to the end of the dipstick tube? >> >> Regards >> >> >> Thomas From bcrist at club-internet.fr Sun Mar 14 15:01:30 2010 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 23:01:30 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Le Mans Historics Message-ID: <9549460.66011268604090554.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1118> Yes I do, with the Jaguar E-Type and XK clubs this time. You're welcome Bernie Hi All, B Anybody planning on going to the Le Mans Historics in July? cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Mar 14 15:13:04 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 23:13:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] K and N filters to HD8 carbs In-Reply-To: <636103.65336.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <636103.65336.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B9D5F70.9040805@chello.nl> K&N have plastic connectors made for the purpose that fit into a drilled hole in the back or front plate. Available as an accessoire. Kees Oudesluijs NL john gillespie schreef: > Hello Bob and others, two of us in the NE region that owned BJ8's had K and > N filters installed. We had a hole drilled and then a small pipe welded onto > the backing plate. This pipe did clear the dashpots and we were able to > connect the breather hose. The plates that we had were made out of aluminum > so you have to get a welder that knows how to handle that type of material. > John > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.790 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2746 - datum van uitgifte: 03/14/10 08:33:00 From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun Mar 14 15:14:56 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 14:14:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Broken_window_replacment_sought?= Message-ID: <20100314221456.5366.qmail@hoster902.com> Would like to know if anyone knows of a supplier for individual plexiglass window panels. I've cracked one of mine. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA BN6 From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sun Mar 14 15:49:48 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 23:49:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] K and N filters to HD8 carbs In-Reply-To: <636103.65336.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <636103.65336.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You can actually drill a hole only in the backing plate and route the hose through. On the other side you insert a loose piece of pipe into the hose, which will keep the hose in place. Magnus Karlsson Bores Motor Corporation AB Husbondegatan 36B 507 60 Bores Phone +46-703-933349 www.concourshealeys.com 14 mar 2010 kl. 21.55 skrev john gillespie: > Hello Bob and others, two of us in the NE region that owned BJ8's had K and > N filters installed. We had a hole drilled and then a small pipe welded onto > the backing plate. This pipe did clear the dashpots and we were able to > connect the breather hose. The plates that we had were made out of aluminum > so you have to get a welder that knows how to handle that type of material. > John From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Mar 14 16:27:41 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 15:27:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Broken window replacment sought In-Reply-To: <20100314221456.5366.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20100314221456.5366.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <173126441003141627i2b1bbf55ub63f803ddab28db8@mail.gmail.com> Here in Portland, OR we have a place called TAP plastics. They can copy anything from an original. check your yellow pages to see if you have such a pace near you. Otherwise I would check with Moss, Norm Nock or Ed... Ira On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 2:14 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > Would like to know if anyone knows of a supplier for individual plexiglass > window panels. I've cracked one of mine. > -- > Steve Gerow > Pasadena, CA > BN6 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From 55healey at comcast.net Sun Mar 14 17:09:04 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 17:09:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 with DW aluminum sump- In-Reply-To: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> References: <000301cac37d$30605b70$91211250$@de> Message-ID: Thomas, I replaced the leaking original oil sump pan on my 100 last spring with one of the beautiful finned aluminum pans. The overall outside dimensions are similar however as you have noticed, the casting is about 1/2" thick resulting in a shallower inside depth of the pan. I had to shorten the thickness of the oil strainer as well to get the new pan to fit. I agree that the oil level seemed to come up too high when I refilled the crankcase with my usual amount of oil. It was suggested that overfilling would not cause a great problem as the extra oil would just leak out. This does not inspire great confidence. I am running the car about 1/2 quart low and keeping a close eye on it. Rob On Mar 14, 2010, at 6:49 AM, T+ B Willig wrote: > I have fitted a DW alum sump to my 100 and I wonder if I have to > recalibrate > the oils dipstick. Is that necessary? What did other owners do? I am > afraid > that I am going to overfill the sump, if I add the recommended > quantity of > engine oil. > > > > Your advise is urgently needed. > > > > Thomas Willig From 55healey at comcast.net Sun Mar 14 17:17:25 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 17:17:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: AW: 100 with DW aluminum sump- In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Rich, I just measured the depth of my new aluminum pan. The length from the bottom of the sump to the top of the dipstick tube was 13 1/8" or 33 cm. Rob On Mar 14, 2010, at 2:52 PM, Rich C wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Rich C" > > Thomas, et al, > > I just took two measurements on a stock Hundred engine and have > found the > following: > > - total depth of stock undamaged oil pan 5 3/16" or 13.3 CM > - length from bottom of oil sump to top of dipstick tube 13 3/4" or > 35 CM > > Hope this helps, > Rich Chrysler From shop at justbrits.com Sun Mar 14 17:56:30 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 19:56:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! Message-ID: <4B9D85BE.8000000@justbrits.com> I have just out up a STUNNING *.pps [Power Point Show] on my site for you all !! Various models of cars including a Florida Green/White Austin-Healey 100. ALL are BEAUTIFUL !!! PLEASE, some of you have some restraint and look at LATER so as NOT to overload my server !!!! Enjoy !!!! http://www.justbrits.com/z/Automobiles.pps Oh, & all EXCEPT Mr. Leavy are WELCOME.to view. Ed PS: From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 14 18:14:27 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 21:14:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! References: <4B9D85BE.8000000@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <000c01cac3dc$dc4fa8f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Do we have to turn on our Edbonics software program to get the full fect. ) Anonymous. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: "4 - Healeys" Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 8:56 PM Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! >I have just out up a STUNNING *.pps [Power Point > Show] on my site for you all !! > > Various models of cars including a Florida Green/White > Austin-Healey 100. ALL are BEAUTIFUL !!! > > PLEASE, some of you have some restraint and look at > LATER so as NOT to overload my server !!!! > > Enjoy !!!! > > http://www.justbrits.com/z/Automobiles.pps > > Oh, & all EXCEPT Mr. Leavy are WELCOME.to view. > > Ed > > PS: > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun Mar 14 18:27:41 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 01:27:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?bj7_registry?= Message-ID: <20100315012741.12973.qmail@server278.com> tom blaskovics, please contact me off list. hjim From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Mar 14 19:14:42 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:14:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: AW: 100 with DW aluminum sump- In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Robert, That's a full 5/8" less than the measurement I got. That seems strange. You sure your dipstick tube is full original length? Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 8:17 PM To: "Rich C" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: AW: 100 with DW aluminum sump- > Thanks Rich, > > I just measured the depth of my new aluminum pan. > The length from the bottom of the sump to the top of the > dipstick tube was 13 1/8" or 33 cm. > > Rob > > On Mar 14, 2010, at 2:52 PM, Rich C wrote: > >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Rich C" >> >> Thomas, et al, >> >> I just took two measurements on a stock Hundred engine and have found >> the >> following: >> >> - total depth of stock undamaged oil pan 5 3/16" or 13.3 CM >> - length from bottom of oil sump to top of dipstick tube 13 3/4" or 35 >> CM >> >> Hope this helps, >> Rich Chrysler From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 14 19:24:11 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:24:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! Message-ID: <000601cac3e6$99f84700$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Not that it really matters but the Edbonics program must have cut off my word "effect" at the end of the sentence. Pretty strange. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" ; "4 - Healeys" Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 9:14 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] W O W !!! > Do we have to turn on our Edbonics software program to get the full > ct. ) > > Anonymous. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" > To: "4 - Healeys" > Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 8:56 PM > Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! > > >>I have just out up a STUNNING *.pps [Power Point >> Show] on my site for you all !! >> >> Various models of cars including a Florida Green/White >> Austin-Healey 100. ALL are BEAUTIFUL !!! >> >> PLEASE, some of you have some restraint and look at >> LATER so as NOT to overload my server !!!! >> >> Enjoy !!!! >> >> http://www.justbrits.com/z/Automobiles.pps >> >> Oh, & all EXCEPT Mr. Leavy are WELCOME.to view. >> >> Ed >> >> PS: >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From Healey100M at gmail.com Sun Mar 14 19:50:50 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:50:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 Message-ID: Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Mar 14 19:51:05 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 19:51:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 7 choke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Frank, Here are a couple of pictures that might help explain. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Edwards Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 6:54 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ 7 choke Finally started my engine after many years and a rebuild. I noticed that when you push the choke knob back in the choke plates stay in the choked position. The only springs I see are the two on the sides of the carbs and these are obviously not returning the plates to the non- choked position. Are there supposed to be more springs or am I missing something else? Thanks for your help. 62' BJ7 61' Bugeye 69' Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:W L :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1020271.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1020270.JPG] From shop at justbrits.com Sun Mar 14 20:06:51 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:06:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! In-Reply-To: <000c01cac3dc$dc4fa8f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <4B9D85BE.8000000@justbrits.com> <000c01cac3dc$dc4fa8f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4B9DA44B.70901@justbrits.com> Mark wrote and I quote: "Do we have to turn on our Edbonics software program to get the full fect. )" And then ADDED: "Not that it really matters but the Edbonics program must have cut off my word "effect" at the end of the sentence. Pretty strange." What the He|| are you 'talking" about, Mark ?? I WISH I could take credit for not only the PPShow but photography as well. Can't. Did NOT say it WAS of MY origin !?!?!? So.......................................??????????????????? From mslechta at chartermi.net Sun Mar 14 20:16:58 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:16:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! In-Reply-To: <4B9D85BE.8000000@justbrits.com> References: <4B9D85BE.8000000@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <557287CE730D4088B0414F36EAF3073F@MikesLaptop> Ed - You just sent me all the definitions of abbreviations I thought I would ever need to know & now you send me some more - & WOW!! WTF?? Now that I got that off my chest, great pps!! Would you believe, the 1st car shown, the '36 Buick, I've got one for sale - not a concept, but an 80C "Trunk Back Phaeton" (4-door convert.). See pix below taken on Daytona Beach after completing the 2003 Great Race. Cheers, Mike S. ----- Original Message ----- From: Shop at " Just Brits " To: 4 - Healeys Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 7:56 PM Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! I have just out up a STUNNING *.pps [Power Point Show] on my site for you all !! Various models of cars including a Florida Green/White Austin-Healey 100. ALL are BEAUTIFUL !!! PLEASE, some of you have some restraint and look at LATER so as NOT to overload my server !!!! Enjoy !!!! http://www.justbrits.com/z/Automobiles.pps Oh, & all EXCEPT Mr. Leavy are WELCOME.to view. Ed PS: _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Great Race 157.jpg] From shop at justbrits.com Sun Mar 14 20:17:15 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:17:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B9DA6BB.2060109@justbrits.com> <> Guess the author was NOT the photographer OR everything under the bonnet was painted "rust" colour and author never looked at photos !?!?!? Patrick, do you recall the factory having such a colour even as an 'option' ??? Ed From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun Mar 14 20:18:24 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:18:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <751d05481003142018ye41bbc0gfcb5f4b418f78d5d@mail.gmail.com> Randy, What is this idiot smoking. Curt On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 7:50 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ > ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 > > I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > www.austinhealey100m.com > '56 100 M > '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Sun Mar 14 20:30:22 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:30:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <751d05481003142018ye41bbc0gfcb5f4b418f78d5d@mail.gmail.com> References: <751d05481003142018ye41bbc0gfcb5f4b418f78d5d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B9DA9CE.8080508@justbrits.com> << What is this idiot smoking. >> Curt, YOU were gonna be my very NEXT PM as I WANT & NEED some of 'dat sh*t' !!!! It has GOT to be REALLY 'good sh*t' !!!!! Ed PS: Learnt de above from Cheech & Chong and .........Sister Mary Elephant !!!!! From shop at justbrits.com Sun Mar 14 20:32:55 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:32:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] W O W !!! In-Reply-To: <557287CE730D4088B0414F36EAF3073F@MikesLaptop> References: <4B9D85BE.8000000@justbrits.com> <557287CE730D4088B0414F36EAF3073F@MikesLaptop> Message-ID: <4B9DAA67.7090901@justbrits.com> I'll put Mike's car up on my site tomorrow for those of you that want to see it !!! BEAUTIFUL, Mike !!! From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 14 23:26:01 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 14:26:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wow, so rare! The very rare optional Corinthian Brown coves and "Naugehyde" optional interior, this is a real find. On 3/15/10, Randy Hicks wrote: > Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ > ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 > > I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > www.austinhealey100m.com > '56 100 M > '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 15 00:13:52 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 02:13:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B9DDE30.7030606@justbrits.com> << ...this is a real find. >> Yep Alan, sure is. Did you check out the "further optional" under bonnet 'stuff' ?? From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Mar 15 01:29:44 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 08:29:44 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000001cac419$ab408800$01c19800$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I have K&N lookalikes, produced in France. I had to confront this problem and my solution seems to work. Caveat:-one can buy these fittings, below, in the UK and, I'm pretty sure, in the rest of Europe, BUT I don't know about anywhere else. Find a helpful plumbing supply shop and ask about bits.....& then:- 1) Make a hole in the backplate of the rearmost filter. Hole to allow a 22mm pipe. 2) Take a 22mm compression joint of the type that one would use, for example, to put a 22mm supply into a cold water tank. 3) Using the joint, above, put a, say, 2 inch length of 22mm copper pipe into the back of the filter with as little as possible on the inside. (I ground my pipe and joint down on the inside with a grinder). 4) The section of pipe that sticks out of the filter can be inserted into the regular rubber pipe coming over from the T on top of the engine and then tightened up with a Jubilee type clip. Attached shows the visible part of the joint which, in my opinion, is acceptable although it won't win any prizes. (For interest's sake: The steel fuel pipe feeds between the carbs looked very smart - I thought - but it was nbg and had to go). Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: 14 March 2010 20:14 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter Folks, For those that have fitted K&N conical air filters to the HS-4 carbs (tri-carb), what did you do with the breather hose? I'd like to fit it to the backing plate of the rear filter, but not sure there's the room to install a 5/8" fitting between the carb dashpot and the rubber lip of the filter. Cheers, Bob _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 3.JPG] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 15 01:42:08 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:42:08 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B9DF2E0.6000600@chello.nl> The pop rivets look very new and do not line up with the original holes. Kees Oudesluijs NL Randy Hicks schreef: > Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ > ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 > > I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > www.austinhealey100m.com > '56 100 M > '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.790 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2747 - datum van uitgifte: 03/14/10 20:33:00 From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Mon Mar 15 02:42:05 2010 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:42:05 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <4B9DF2E0.6000600@chello.nl> References: <4B9DF2E0.6000600@chello.nl> Message-ID: <000801cac423$c61cb4f0$52561ed0$@net.au> Just had another look for it and it has been removed. From the English(?)and spelling in the description it might have been one of our Nigerian friends trying a bit of a scam John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Monday, 15 March 2010 6:42 PM To: Randy Hicks Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 The pop rivets look very new and do not line up with the original holes. Kees Oudesluijs NL Randy Hicks schreef: > Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmd Z > ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 > > I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > www.austinhealey100m.com > '56 100 M > '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 15 02:54:35 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 10:54:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <000801cac423$c61cb4f0$52561ed0$@net.au> References: <4B9DF2E0.6000600@chello.nl> <000801cac423$c61cb4f0$52561ed0$@net.au> Message-ID: <4B9E03DB.8040501@chello.nl> John, It has not been removed. Still on: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ Kees Oudesluijs NL > Just had another look for it and it has been removed. From the English(?)and > spelling in the description it might have been one of our Nigerian friends > trying a bit of a scam > > John Rowe Qld Australia > BN1 BT7 > > > > The pop rivets look very new and do not line up with the original holes. > Kees Oudesluijs From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 15 03:33:47 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 05:33:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <4B9E03DB.8040501@chello.nl> References: <4B9DF2E0.6000600@chello.nl> <000801cac423$c61cb4f0$52561ed0$@net.au> <4B9E03DB.8040501@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4B9E0D0B.3000500@justbrits.com> <> Yep John, Kees' link is it !!! Yer idea sounds 'right' tho !!! Sure "smells"!! Ed From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Mar 15 04:09:41 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:09:41 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 Healey Blue? Message-ID: Title says it all.. The guidelines mention the fascia painted 'dark blue' - what blue?? Anyone has the color ID? Was the instrument cluster also painted silver? What silver is it?.. If anyone has a Healey Blue 100, I would much appreciate a photo of the dash.. Many thanks for help, Tadek From Healey100M at gmail.com Mon Mar 15 06:36:45 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:36:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <000801cac423$c61cb4f0$52561ed0$@net.au> References: <4B9DF2E0.6000600@chello.nl> <000801cac423$c61cb4f0$52561ed0$@net.au> Message-ID: John, it's still listed. ebay Item # 270546140139 Randy On Mar 15, 2010, at 5:42 AM, John & Kerry Rowe wrote: > Just had another look for it and it has been removed. From the English(?)and > spelling in the description it might have been one of our Nigerian friends > trying a bit of a scam > > John Rowe Qld Australia > BN1 BT7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Oudesluys > Sent: Monday, 15 March 2010 6:42 PM > To: Randy Hicks > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 > > The pop rivets look very new and do not line up with the original holes. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > > Randy Hicks schreef: >> Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) >> >> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmd > Z >> ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 >> >> I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) >> >> Randy >> >> Randy Hicks >> www.austinhealey100m.com >> '56 100 M >> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans >> '62 BN7 MkII >> '65 BJ8 >> '53 MGTD >> Healey100M at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Mar 15 06:42:41 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:42:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: References: <4B9DF2E0.6000600@chello.nl> <000801cac423$c61cb4f0$52561ed0$@net.au> Message-ID: <009701cac445$62ac5890$280509b0$@net> Note that this is the first listing under this users ID. That would normally be enough to scare me away. I am watching it just to see if anyone is crazy enough to bid on it. Supposedly it is in Salisbury, MD. Anyone on the list know of this car???? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 9:37 AM To: John & Kerry Rowe Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 John, it's still listed. ebay Item # 270546140139 Randy On Mar 15, 2010, at 5:42 AM, John & Kerry Rowe wrote: > Just had another look for it and it has been removed. From the English(?)and > spelling in the description it might have been one of our Nigerian friends > trying a bit of a scam > > John Rowe Qld Australia > BN1 BT7 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Mar 15 06:48:04 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:48:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> Usually the instrument panel on a Healey Blue Hundred is a dark midnight blue with silver instrument pod. However, we've observed a few original exceptions here. Some of the early 2 piece dashes had the separate instrument pod painted Healey Blue, though most were silver. A few later BN1's with single piece dash pressing seemed to be painted all black. An example here is John Wheatley's very original BN1, though that's the only one I've ever personally seen. I believe his was built about May of '54. As for formulas for the dark blue and the silver, I'll quote from my painter's notes: " The blue colour is a Mercedes blue "paint code 904". It is Sherwin Williams basecoat U7-39121 standard formula. The silver we have been using is from PPG's Global paint line. It is not a formula but the mixing toner BC769 extra fine silver. The Sherwin Williams equivalent should be toner # U7006. This is the same silver (metallic) that we use in the Healey Blue formula. There shouldn't be a compatibility problem using Sherwin Williams clear on top of the PPG silver. I have used it many times with success. The same goes for using Sherwin Williams blue and PPG's silver on the same dash." Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 7:09 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? > Title says it all.. > > The guidelines mention the fascia painted 'dark blue' - what blue?? Anyone > has the color ID? > > Was the instrument cluster also painted silver? What silver is it?.. > > If anyone has a Healey Blue 100, I would much appreciate a photo of the > dash.. > > Many thanks for help, > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Mar 15 06:53:40 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 14:53:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> References: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Rich, What would we do without you... This is the other 100 in Poland that's looking for the right color. Is the color finish gloss or matt? Tadek ----- Wiadomo6f oryginalna ----- Od:: Rich C Data:: Poniedzia3ek, 15 Marzec 2010 14:48 Temat: Re: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? > Usually the instrument panel on a Healey Blue Hundred is a dark > midnight > blue with silver instrument pod. However, we've observed a few > original > exceptions here. Some of the early 2 piece dashes had the separate > instrument pod painted Healey Blue, though most were silver. A few > later > BN1's with single piece dash pressing seemed to be painted all > black. An > example here is John Wheatley's very original BN1, though that's > the only > one I've ever personally seen. I believe his was built about May > of '54. > As for formulas for the dark blue and the silver, I'll quote from > my > painter's notes: > > " The blue colour is a Mercedes blue "paint code 904". It is > SherwinWilliams basecoat U7-39121 standard formula. > The silver we have been using is from PPG's Global paint line. It > is not a formula but the mixing toner BC769 extra fine silver. > The Sherwin > Williams equivalent should be toner # U7006. This is the same silver > (metallic) that we use in the Healey Blue formula. There shouldn't > be a > compatibility problem using Sherwin Williams clear on top of the PPG > silver. I have used it many times with success. The same goes for > usingSherwin Williams blue and PPG's silver on the same dash." > > Rich Chrysler > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 7:09 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for > BN1 > HealeyBlue? > > > Title says it all.. > > > > The guidelines mention the fascia painted 'dark blue' - what > blue?? Anyone > > has the color ID? > > > > Was the instrument cluster also painted silver? What silver is it?.. > > > > If anyone has a Healey Blue 100, I would much appreciate a photo > of the > > dash.. > > > > Many thanks for help, > > > > Tadek > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.ne > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http: From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 15 07:00:43 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:00:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <009701cac445$62ac5890$280509b0$@net> References: <4B9DF2E0.6000600@chello.nl> <000801cac423$c61cb4f0$52561ed0$@net.au> <009701cac445$62ac5890$280509b0$@net> Message-ID: <4B9E3D8B.9060900@justbrits.com> << Supposedly it is in Salisbury, MD. >> If it is John, our own Michael Oritt will most likely know it. His neck of the woods !! From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Mar 15 07:55:56 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:55:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: References: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <5A8556515C6248C197D2ECB4C04A1F8C@GregPC> My Hundred was built in May of '54 as well, Healey Blue, the dash was black with silver when I got it, when I stripped it to repaint there was no evidence of any blue paint, only black and I believe an oxide red primer underneath, but the car had been restored before I got it to some extent, and in fact a later found out spend some time in bits in the basement of an Omaha repair shop before it was brought back to life, hardly an example like John Wheatley's car, so I don't know if the black was original or an older re-do, but arguably more evidence that some of the Healey Blue cars had black instrument panels. Greg Lemon From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Mon Mar 15 08:28:42 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 10:28:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial Message-ID: <9baa446a1003150828g4eb19c06nc18c249d46b66bc3@mail.gmail.com> while installing a rebuilt 3000 sideshift trany, i installed doug reid's ( mr.finespanner ) slave cylinder extension. upon comletion, and having the carpet and seats installed, i discovered i couldn't pump up the clutch. rebuilt the master cylinder and bleeding the clutch was a breeze with the extension in place. if you have occasion to have the trany cover removed, consider installing doug's extension. great labor saver. no financial interest. just a highly satisfied customer. -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Mar 15 08:59:25 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 08:59:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fender bead insulator Message-ID: <173126441003150859i7c656d3fg1b6de2bbaaa90f42@mail.gmail.com> Howdy oh wise ones.... I have removed all four fenders on my resto project. I ordered new fender bolt kits and new fender beading. I have always been of a mind that there was some type of material to isolate between the bi-metal situation or actually tri-metal situation of steel fenders, tin bead clips and aluminum body panels. There does not appear to be any on my car when we pulled the fenders off. . It just seems like one big battery to me..... So should I use something or not?If so what? I see material available, but none of the various companies I have contacted about quotes for parts have mentioned that I should use it. Thanks again in advance.. -- I Erbs Portland, OR From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Mar 15 09:15:03 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:15:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial In-Reply-To: <9baa446a1003150828g4eb19c06nc18c249d46b66bc3@mail.gmail.com> References: <9baa446a1003150828g4eb19c06nc18c249d46b66bc3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00a101cac45a$ad55c2e0$080148a0$@net> Only problem with the extension is that it eliminates one more reason to cuss like a drunken sailor when working on my beloved. Makes bleeding almost too easy. I agree with Jerry that any time that you have the tranny out or even have the cover off, you should install one. I went to the trouble of removing gthe seats, removing the tranny cover just to make this installation -- not because I needed to do so at that time but knowing that sooner or later I would have to bleed the clutch and how else to spend a snowy wintery day? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jerry wall Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 11:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial while installing a rebuilt 3000 sideshift trany, i installed doug reid's ( mr.finespanner ) slave cylinder extension. upon comletion, and having the carpet and seats installed, i discovered i couldn't pump up the clutch. rebuilt the master cylinder and bleeding the clutch was a breeze with the extension in place. if you have occasion to have the trany cover removed, consider installing doug's extension. great labor saver. no financial interest. just a highly satisfied customer. -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Mar 15 09:25:08 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:25:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial In-Reply-To: <9baa446a1003150828g4eb19c06nc18c249d46b66bc3@mail.gmail.com> References: <9baa446a1003150828g4eb19c06nc18c249d46b66bc3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <002701cac45c$1429f5d0$3c7de170$@rr.com> I'll add my testimonial to Jerry's endorsement: During our return through Colorado on the way home from Conclave in San Diego, my traveling companion said his clutch wasn't working well at the altitude. We figured he had air in the lines, so stopped at a NAPA store for some silicone fluid and tubing. With Mr. Finespanner's extension on George's slave cylinder, it was a simple 5-minute job to bleed the clutch and then all was well -- no crawling under the car to try to access the slave cylinder, no tedious pumping of the brake pedal. Note: I cannot install the extension in my BJ8 because I have the earlier style spin-on oil filter adapter that holds the filter in the same orientation as the original canister. This interferes with the extension. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jerry wall Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 11:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial while installing a rebuilt 3000 sideshift trany, i installed doug reid's ( mr.finespanner ) slave cylinder extension. upon comletion, and having the carpet and seats installed, i discovered i couldn't pump up the clutch. rebuilt the master cylinder and bleeding the clutch was a breeze with the extension in place. if you have occasion to have the trany cover removed, consider installing doug's extension. great labor saver. no financial interest. just a highly satisfied customer. -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Mar 15 09:30:52 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:30:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fender bead insulator In-Reply-To: <173126441003150859i7c656d3fg1b6de2bbaaa90f42@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003150859i7c656d3fg1b6de2bbaaa90f42@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <7933597CB8F84AFDAF1C9351AC1236A1@LIFEBOOK> We've had discussions about this here before and the opinions certainly vary. It has been our practice to make sure quality paint is well applied to all mating surfaces and then to install the beading with nothing else there. We feel strongly that if any other sort of tape, packing or sealant is applied here it will only act as an efficient moisture trap. If the metals cannot actually touch each other, and oxygen cannot reach the metal they cannot corrode. Moisture that enters into the area can air dry. Keep in mind, other than the token poor primers they had on the individual panels prior to assembly, they originally had nothing else in the seam, therefore there was virtual metal to metal contact and corrosion was free to take place. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "I Erbs" Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 11:59 AM To: "healey help" Subject: [Healeys] fender bead insulator > Howdy oh wise ones.... > I have removed all four fenders on my resto project. I ordered new fender > bolt kits and new fender beading. > I have always been of a mind that there was some type of material to > isolate > between the bi-metal situation or actually tri-metal situation of steel > fenders, tin bead clips and aluminum body panels. There does not appear to > be any on my car when we pulled the fenders off. . It just seems like one > big battery to me..... > So should I use something or not?If so what? I see material available, > but > none of the various companies I have contacted about quotes for parts have > mentioned that I should use it. > > Thanks again in advance.. > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Mar 15 09:35:27 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:35:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fender bead insulator In-Reply-To: <173126441003150859i7c656d3fg1b6de2bbaaa90f42@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003150859i7c656d3fg1b6de2bbaaa90f42@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <002d01cac45d$851b6c50$8f5244f0$@rr.com> Hi, Ira - There was no barrier material other than minimal paint originally used between the fender flanges, the shroud flanges, and the beading. This arrangement is a galvanic cell, and in the days when the cars were just cars and lived outside and in the rain most of the time, corrosion was promoted that dissolved the aluminum flanges. Most Healeys see a much more benign environment today, but can still corrode if exposes to enough moisture. I just used a good coat of anti-corrosion primer (called "Corroless" then, but Eastwood has something similar called "Rust Encapsulator") on all the flanges before I reassembled the parts. Since then (the late '80s) I have had only one rear fender off the car about 13 years later and there was no corrosion of the flanges. A good coating of a good paint should be all you need. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 11:59 AM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] fender bead insulator Howdy oh wise ones.... I have removed all four fenders on my resto project. I ordered new fender bolt kits and new fender beading. I have always been of a mind that there was some type of material to isolate between the bi-metal situation or actually tri-metal situation of steel fenders, tin bead clips and aluminum body panels. There does not appear to be any on my car when we pulled the fenders off. . It just seems like one big battery to me..... So should I use something or not?If so what? I see material available, but none of the various companies I have contacted about quotes for parts have mentioned that I should use it. Thanks again in advance.. -- I Erbs Portland, OR From don at anglesey.us Mon Mar 15 11:12:10 2010 From: don at anglesey.us (Don) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:12:10 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Bob, Remove the breather hose and install a small K&N filter directly to the "T" where you removed the breather hose. APT Fast carries the K&N vent filter as well as most auto parts store. www.aptfast.com K&N Filters 62-2470. Don 57 BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 2:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter Folks, For those that have fitted K&N conical air filters to the HS-4 carbs (tri-carb), what did you do with the breather hose? I'd like to fit it to the backing plate of the rear filter, but not sure there's the room to install a 5/8" fitting between the carb dashpot and the rubber lip of the filter. Cheers, Bob _______________________________________________ From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon Mar 15 11:48:21 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:48:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: <5A8556515C6248C197D2ECB4C04A1F8C@GregPC> References: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> <5A8556515C6248C197D2ECB4C04A1F8C@GregPC> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3011A0B5E@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> My 100 was also built in May `54, BodyNo 3651, but colour was/is Spruce Green. The car was never restored when I bought it in `86. The dashboard was fully black with an oxide red primer underneath. Now its Concours correct Spruce Green/Silver. But I am 100% sure it was all over black originally. Josef eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Greg Lemon Gesendet: Montag, 15. Mdrz 2010 15:56 An: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; Rich C Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? My Hundred was built in May of '54 as well, Healey Blue, the dash was black with silver when I got it, when I stripped it to repaint there was no evidence of any blue paint, only black and I believe an oxide red primer underneath, but the car had been restored before I got it to some extent, and in fact a later found out spend some time in bits in the basement of an Omaha repair shop before it was brought back to life, hardly an example like John Wheatley's car, so I don't know if the black was original or an older re-do, but arguably more evidence that some of the Healey Blue cars had black instrument panels. Greg Lemon _______________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 15 12:00:23 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 20:00:23 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B9E83C7.8000408@chello.nl> Although often used this is not ideal especially on an old engine with a highish crank case pressure. The filter will catch the larger droplets but not the fine oil mist, causing an oily film around the filter, on top of all the oil already emitted. I use it on my engine as well but as soon as I have the opportunity to connect up to the plenum or filters I will do so. Kees Oudesluijs NL Don schreef: > Bob, > Remove the breather hose and install a small K&N filter directly to the "T" > where you removed the breather hose. APT Fast carries the K&N vent filter > as well as most auto parts store. www.aptfast.com K&N Filters 62-2470. > Don > 57 BN4 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 15 12:10:19 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 20:10:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3011A0B5E@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> <5A8556515C6248C197D2ECB4C04A1F8C@GregPC> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3011A0B5E@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4B9E861B.70000@chello.nl> Would black have been Concours incorrect? That would be very odd. Kees Oudesluijs NL Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com schreef: > My 100 was also built in May `54, BodyNo 3651, but colour was/is Spruce Green. > The car was never restored when I bought it in `86. The dashboard was fully > black with an oxide red primer underneath. Now its Concours correct Spruce > Green/Silver. But I am 100% sure it was all over black originally. > > Josef eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Greg Lemon > Gesendet: Montag, 15. Mdrz 2010 15:56 > An: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; Rich C > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for > BN1 HealeyBlue? > > My Hundred was built in May of '54 as well, Healey Blue, the dash was black > with silver when I got it, when I stripped it to repaint there was no evidence > of any blue paint, only black and I believe an oxide red primer underneath, > but the car had been restored before I got it to some extent, and in fact a > later found out spend some time in bits in the basement of an Omaha repair > shop before it was brought back to life, hardly an example like John > Wheatley's car, so I don't know if the black was original or an older re-do, > but arguably more evidence that some of the Healey Blue cars had black > instrument panels. > > Greg Lemon > _______________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.790 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2748 - datum van uitgifte: 03/15/10 08:33:00 From pennell at cox.net Mon Mar 15 12:52:11 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 15:52:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100315155211.73WRZ.164220.imail@eastrmwml38> Copied directly from the description: RARE 1957 MODEL# 106. SEE info at schmitt.com History of the Austin Healey factory is that the factory was closed down for retooling for the new most popular MODEL 3000 (6 cylinder). Most of the workers were layed off for the factory change over, so a number of the workers took the new 6 cylinder engines tooled them into the old MODEL 104 BODY. I don't see a 104 body!!!! So you have a few of the special built cars with 6 cylinder engines in the earlier 4 cylinder body. What 4 cylinder body?????? Estimated of less than 500 of these beauties are on the road today. Most of the Austin Healey are the MODEL# 3000. We keep a book of pictures for the rebuilding of the car from the frame up, Included are recipes and pictures of the work. Recipes???? I am not much of a cook so I had rather see the receipts. The engine was rebuilt with new pistons and rings, compression is as new. Less than 500 new miles on the rebuilt. (1997) A 13 year old rebuilt?????? It will need a lot of attention to the fuel and brake system I suspect. The car was keep in Arizona until I moved to Maryland in 2005, it has 0% rust including the ROCKER panels. The car has the dash and frame and are changeable to a RIGHT handed steering. As are ALL the big Healeys?????? This is a prize. As someone has alluded to If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck . . . . . . Keith ---- Randy Hicks wrote: > Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ > ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 > > I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) > > Randy From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon Mar 15 13:30:21 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:30:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: <198E49572B8A4A36A2AF712D391A86AF@LIFEBOOK> References: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK><5A8556515C6248C197D2ECB4C04A1F8C@GregPC> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3011A0B5E@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <198E49572B8A4A36A2AF712D391A86AF@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3011A0B6C@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Rich, Today I know more, but at the time I did the restoration of my 100 more than 20 years ago I missed to do detail pictures of such items. First I painted the dashboard black again, then added silver around the instruments. In a second restoration I brought the car back to original specs with all the original panels I had replaced by new items before, except the dashboard, where I decided to have it in the correct green/silver. Josef Eckert -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Gesendet: Montag, 15. Mdrz 2010 21:07 An: Eckert, Josef Cc: Roger Moment; TRICARB at aol.com; Editorgary at aol.com; Don Schneider; Kent Lacy; Mike Osipik; Marion Brantley; tllaz at cros.net; Curt Arndt; Sean Johnson; Peter Svilans; Bruce Gearns; richchrysler at quickclic.net; steve.jekogian at spcorp.com; John Hodgman; George Marinos Betreff: Re: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? Josef, That is the sort of accurate information we need to have submitted to the National Concours steering committee to make the Concours Guidelines more correct. We certainly don't want to lose really accurate original information and steer people the wrong way just because what we've documented to be correct so far is in fact not completely accurate. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 2:48 PM To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? > My 100 was also built in May `54, BodyNo 3651, but colour was/is > Spruce Green. > The car was never restored when I bought it in `86. The dashboard was > fully black with an oxide red primer underneath. Now its Concours > correct Spruce Green/Silver. But I am 100% sure it was all over black > originally. > > Josef eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Greg Lemon > Gesendet: Montag, 15. Mdrz 2010 15:56 > An: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; Rich C > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] ODP: Re: What color should the instrument panel > be for > BN1 HealeyBlue? > > My Hundred was built in May of '54 as well, Healey Blue, the dash was > black with silver when I got it, when I stripped it to repaint there > was no evidence of any blue paint, only black and I believe an oxide > red primer underneath, but the car had been restored before I got it > to some extent, and in fact a later found out spend some time in bits > in the basement of an Omaha repair shop before it was brought back to > life, hardly an example like John Wheatley's car, so I don't know if > the black was original or an older re-do, but arguably more evidence > that some of the Healey Blue cars had black instrument panels. > > Greg Lemon > ________ From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Mar 15 14:10:07 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:10:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4B9E83C7.8000408@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1975355135.14314431268687407272.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> When I went to K&N filters on my BJ8 I installed a PCV valve. Works great, and it eliminated most of the blue smoke I used to get after a long downhill run. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Although often used this is not ideal especially on an old engine with a highish crank case pressure. The filter will catch the larger droplets but not the fine oil mist, causing an oily film around the filter, on top of all the oil already emitted. I use it on my engine as well but as soon as I have the opportunity to connect up to the plenum or filters I will do so. Kees Oudesluijs NL Don schreef: > Bob, > Remove the breather hose and install a small K&N filter directly to the "T" > where you removed the breather hose. APT Fast carries the K&N vent filter > as well as most auto parts store. www.aptfast.com K&N Filters 62-2470. > Don > 57 BN4 _______________________________________________ From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Mon Mar 15 10:08:32 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 10:08:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 24 Hours of LeMons Message-ID: <048F8EEB10DF4A9AB22D1A91965330A3@cardinalhealth.net> >I was in the race! We were car #192. We did finish. We did not have the >fancy fuel dumpers and had to wait in line for fuel for 20-30 min. But >the car made and it was fun. Some of the drivers are scary! > > Jerry > BJ8 > BN4 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alan Seigrist" > To: "Healey" > Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 7:56 PM > Subject: [Healeys] 24 Hours of LeMons > > >> Anyone go to this event at Sears Point? Looks like it could be great >> fun. >> Maybe I'll do it next year. >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '59 Jag Mk IX >> '64 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net From ah3000me at gmail.com Mon Mar 15 16:09:19 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:09:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <1975355135.14314431268687407272.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <4B9E83C7.8000408@chello.nl> <1975355135.14314431268687407272.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I checked the K&N website looking for a K&N air filter to fit my BJ8, and K&N sez that nothing is available. Where is everyone getting K&N air filters for the HD8 carbs? - Tom On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 5:10 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > When I went to K&N filters on my BJ8 I installed a PCV valve. Works great, and it eliminated most of the blue smoke I used to get after a long downhill run. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > Although often used this is not ideal especially on an old engine with a > highish crank case pressure. The filter will catch the larger droplets > but not the fine oil mist, causing an oily film around the filter, on > top of all the oil already emitted. > I use it on my engine as well but as soon as I have the opportunity to > connect up to the plenum or filters I will do so. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Don schreef: >> Bob, >> Remove the breather hose and install a small K&N filter directly to the "T" >> where you removed the breather hose. APT Fast carries the K&N vent filter >> as well as most auto parts store. www.aptfast.com K&N Filters 62-2470. >> Don >> 57 BN4 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Mar 15 16:43:56 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 16:43:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter Message-ID: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> Or hd 6 carbs I Erbs sent from my PDA -----Original Message----- From: Tom Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter I checked the K&N website looking for a K&N air filter to fit my BJ8, and K&N sez that nothing is available. Where is everyone getting K&N air filters for the HD8 carbs? - Tom On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 5:10 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > When I went to K&N filters on my BJ8 I installed a PCV valve. Works great, and it eliminated most of the blue smoke I used to get after a long downhill run. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > Although often used this is not ideal especially on an old engine with a > highish crank case pressure. The filter will catch the larger droplets > but not the fine oil mist, causing an oily film around the filter, on > top of all the oil already emitted. > I use it on my engine as well but as soon as I have the opportunity to > connect up to the plenum or filters I will do so. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Don schreef: >> Bob, >> Remove the breather hose and install a small K&N filter directly to the "T" >> where you removed the breather hose. APT Fast carries the K&N vent filter >> as well as most auto parts store. www.aptfast.com K&N Filters 62-2470. >> Don >> 57 BN4 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Mon Mar 15 16:46:46 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 23:46:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net>, Message-ID: Listmates, It seems to me that putting that little K&N filter at the "T" would only cause more restriction, hence, more back pressure. That will surely push more oil out of the places it normailly leaks. What exactly is getting filtered ? I would run the hose into a little catchtank (e.g., a little plastic juice bottle) mounted over by the master cylinders. If your rockers are not worn - no oil. If they are badly worn, the oil will go into the catch tank. If there is any oil then that little K&N filter will get plugged up and there will be even more crankcase pressure. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: don at anglesey.us > To: rchaskell at earthlink.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:12:10 -0600 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter > > Bob, > Remove the breather hose and install a small K&N filter directly to the "T" > where you removed the breather hose. APT Fast carries the K&N vent filter > as well as most auto parts store. www.aptfast.com K&N Filters 62-2470. > Don > 57 BN4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bob Haskell > Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2010 2:14 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter > > Folks, > > For those that have fitted K&N conical air filters to the HS-4 carbs > (tri-carb), what did you do with the breather hose? I'd like to fit it > to the backing plate of the rear filter, but not sure there's the room > to install a 5/8" fitting between the carb dashpot and the rubber lip of > the filter. > > Cheers, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_1 From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Mar 15 16:47:59 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:47:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <20100315155211.73WRZ.164220.imail@eastrmwml38> Message-ID: <20100315184759.XJNZC.462320.root@ispmxfep14-z01> Has anyone sent him a note asking him to explain all this? Would be interesting to see his response. tom ---- pennell at cox.net wrote: ============= Copied directly from the description: RARE 1957 MODEL# 106. SEE info at schmitt.com History of the Austin Healey factory is that the factory was closed down for retooling for the new most popular MODEL 3000 (6 cylinder). Most of the workers were layed off for the factory change over, so a number of the workers took the new 6 cylinder engines tooled them into the old MODEL 104 BODY. I don't see a 104 body!!!! So you have a few of the special built cars with 6 cylinder engines in the earlier 4 cylinder body. What 4 cylinder body?????? Estimated of less than 500 of these beauties are on the road today. Most of the Austin Healey are the MODEL# 3000. We keep a book of pictures for the rebuilding of the car from the frame up, Included are recipes and pictures of the work. Recipes???? I am not much of a cook so I had rather see the receipts. The engine was rebuilt with new pistons and rings, compression is as new. Less than 500 new miles on the rebuilt. (1997) A 13 year old rebuilt?????? It will need a lot of attention to the fuel and brake system I suspect. The car was keep in Arizona until I moved to Maryland in 2005, it has 0% rust including the ROCKER panels. The car has the dash and frame and are changeable to a RIGHT handed steering. As are ALL the big Healeys?????? This is a prize. As someone has alluded to If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck . . . . . . Keith ---- Randy Hicks wrote: > Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ > ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 > > I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) > > Randy _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From cleona44 at hotmail.com Mon Mar 15 16:59:11 2010 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:59:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <20100315184759.XJNZC.462320.root@ispmxfep14-z01> References: <20100315155211.73WRZ.164220.imail@eastrmwml38>, <20100315184759.XJNZC.462320.root@ispmxfep14-z01> Message-ID: I sent my questions and never received a response > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:47:59 -0500 > From: tomfelts at windstream.net > To: pennell at cox.net; Healey100M at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 > > Has anyone sent him a note asking him to explain all this? Would be interesting to see his response. > > tom > > ---- pennell at cox.net wrote: > > ============= > Copied directly from the description: > > RARE 1957 MODEL# 106. SEE info at schmitt.com History of the Austin Healey factory is that the factory was closed down for retooling for the new most popular MODEL 3000 (6 cylinder). Most of the workers were layed off for the factory change over, so a number of the workers took the new 6 cylinder engines tooled them into the old MODEL 104 BODY. > > I don't see a 104 body!!!! > > So you have a few of the special built cars with 6 cylinder engines in the earlier 4 cylinder body. > > What 4 cylinder body?????? > > Estimated of less than 500 of these beauties are on the road today. Most of the Austin Healey are the MODEL# 3000. We keep a book of pictures for the rebuilding of the car from the frame up, Included are recipes and pictures of the work. > > Recipes???? I am not much of a cook so I had rather see the receipts. > > The engine was rebuilt with new pistons and rings, compression is as new. Less than 500 new miles on the rebuilt. (1997) > > A 13 year old rebuilt?????? It will need a lot of attention to the fuel and brake system I suspect. > > The car was keep in Arizona until I moved to Maryland in 2005, it has 0% rust including the ROCKER panels. The car has the dash and frame and are changeable to a RIGHT handed steering. > > As are ALL the big Healeys?????? > > This is a prize. > > > As someone has alluded to If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck . . . . . . > > Keith > > ---- Randy Hicks wrote: > > Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ > > ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 > > > > I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) > > > > Randy > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_1 From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Mar 15 17:08:48 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 00:08:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: <20100315184759.XJNZC.462320.root@ispmxfep14-z01> References: <20100315155211.73WRZ.164220.imail@eastrmwml38>, <20100315184759.XJNZC.462320.root@ispmxfep14-z01> Message-ID: I have and did not get a response yet. Jean Caron > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:47:59 -0500 > From: tomfelts at windstream.net > To: pennell at cox.net; Healey100M at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 > > Has anyone sent him a note asking him to explain all this? Would be interesting to see his response. > > tom > > ---- pennell at cox.net wrote: > > ============= > Copied directly from the description: > > RARE 1957 MODEL# 106. SEE info at schmitt.com History of the Austin Healey factory is that the factory was closed down for retooling for the new most popular MODEL 3000 (6 cylinder). Most of the workers were layed off for the factory change over, so a number of the workers took the new 6 cylinder engines tooled them into the old MODEL 104 BODY. > > I don't see a 104 body!!!! > > So you have a few of the special built cars with 6 cylinder engines in the earlier 4 cylinder body. > > What 4 cylinder body?????? > > Estimated of less than 500 of these beauties are on the road today. Most of the Austin Healey are the MODEL# 3000. We keep a book of pictures for the rebuilding of the car from the frame up, Included are recipes and pictures of the work. > > Recipes???? I am not much of a cook so I had rather see the receipts. > > The engine was rebuilt with new pistons and rings, compression is as new. Less than 500 new miles on the rebuilt. (1997) > > A 13 year old rebuilt?????? It will need a lot of attention to the fuel and brake system I suspect. > > The car was keep in Arizona until I moved to Maryland in 2005, it has 0% rust including the ROCKER panels. The car has the dash and frame and are changeable to a RIGHT handed steering. > > As are ALL the big Healeys?????? > > This is a prize. > > > As someone has alluded to If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck . . . . . . > > Keith > > ---- Randy Hicks wrote: > > Has any one checked this story out? :-)))) > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-106-YEAR-1957_W0QQitemZ270546140139QQcmdZ > > ViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efdce7beb#ht_500wt_1117 > > > > I wonder if our BN3 friend "down under" knows there are so many???? :-) > > > > Randy > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Live connected with Messenger on your phone http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9712958 From ynotink at msn.com Mon Mar 15 17:25:09 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 00:25:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> References: , <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: My BN1 (#554, Oct 53) came with a two piece dash the same color as the body, Healey Blue, Non-metallic. Bill Lawrence > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:48:04 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? > > Usually the instrument panel on a Healey Blue Hundred is a dark midnight > blue with silver instrument pod. However, we've observed a few original > exceptions here. Some of the early 2 piece dashes had the separate > instrument pod painted Healey Blue, though most were silver. A few later > BN1's with single piece dash pressing seemed to be painted all black. An > example here is John Wheatley's very original BN1, though that's the only > one I've ever personally seen. I believe his was built about May of '54. > As for formulas for the dark blue and the silver, I'll quote from my > painter's notes: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Mar 15 17:39:27 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 17:39:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: References: <4B9E83C7.8000408@chello.nl> <1975355135.14314431268687407272.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4B9ED33F.1040503@comcast.net> Try http://www.aptfast.com and click on 'K&N Filters' on the left navbar and scroll down. Years ago, the owner of APT (forget his name) agreed to create a set for Healey HD8s. He made a one-off backplate for the front carb that lowered the filter so it just fit under the shroud. The deal was I would test the fit and round up some buyers--had a dozen or more people from this list--and he would do a production run. I wasn't looking to profit--just wanted a set for myself. But, alas, he had some personal problems--wife injured in a car crash I heard--and eventually quit responding to my inquiries. bs Tom wrote: > I checked the K&N website looking for a K&N air filter to fit my BJ8, > and K&N sez that nothing is available. Where is everyone getting K&N > air filters for the HD8 carbs? > > - Tom > > On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 5:10 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> When I went to K&N filters on my BJ8 I installed a PCV valve. Works great, >> > and it eliminated most of the blue smoke I used to get after a long downhill > run. > >> bs >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >> >> >> ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From al at bighealey.org Mon Mar 15 18:04:32 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:04:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> Or HS4, for that matter ... Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 7:44 PM To: Tom; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter Or hd 6 carbs I Erbs sent from my PDA -----Original Message----- From: Tom Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter I checked the K&N website looking for a K&N air filter to fit my BJ8, and K&N sez that nothing is available. Where is everyone getting K&N air filters for the HD8 carbs? - Tom On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 5:10 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > When I went to K&N filters on my BJ8 I installed a PCV valve. Works great, and it eliminated most of the blue smoke I used to get after a long downhill run. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > Although often used this is not ideal especially on an old engine with a > highish crank case pressure. The filter will catch the larger droplets > but not the fine oil mist, causing an oily film around the filter, on > top of all the oil already emitted. > I use it on my engine as well but as soon as I have the opportunity to > connect up to the plenum or filters I will do so. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Don schreef: >> Bob, >> Remove the breather hose and install a small K&N filter directly to the "T" >> where you removed the breather hose. APT Fast carries the K&N vent filter >> as well as most auto parts store. www.aptfast.com K&N Filters 62-2470. >> Don >> 57 BN4 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ From edriver at sasktel.net Mon Mar 15 18:15:51 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:15:51 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Rare 1957 Model "106 In-Reply-To: References: <20100315155211.73WRZ.164220.imail@eastrmwml38> <20100315184759.XJNZC.462320.root@ispmxfep14-z01> Message-ID: <4B9EDBC7.9050908@sasktel.net> The simplest conclusion one can draw after reading the ebay advert is that the individual selling the car does not know squat Kind regards Ed Saskatoon Jean Caron wrote: > I have and did not get a response yet. > > > > Jean Caron From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Mar 15 18:16:29 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:16:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: References: , <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Bill, the entire dash was Healey Blue or just the instrument pod? Rich From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 8:25 PM To: Rich C ; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? My BN1 (#554, Oct 53) came with a two piece dash the same color as the body, Healey Blue, Non-metallic. Bill Lawrence > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:48:04 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? > > Usually the instrument panel on a Healey Blue Hundred is a dark midnight > blue with silver instrument pod. However, we've observed a few original > exceptions here. Some of the early 2 piece dashes had the separate > instrument pod painted Healey Blue, though most were silver. A few later > BN1's with single piece dash pressing seemed to be painted all black. An > example here is John Wheatley's very original BN1, though that's the only > one I've ever personally seen. I believe his was built about May of '54. > As for formulas for the dark blue and the silver, I'll quote from my > painter's notes: From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Mon Mar 15 18:56:46 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:56:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Calif Black Plate In-Reply-To: <5caeedb51003141232y45d3809dv93e721e877e6278b@mail.gmail.com> References: <5caeedb51003141232y45d3809dv93e721e877e6278b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <5caeedb51003151856p23749592v278ff8ba9c91bb42@mail.gmail.com> that is how long it took for my 1966 GT 350 H ron rader On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 12:32 PM, F Ronald Rader wrote: > > Thanks to all who helped. I got my tags to go on the license plate after a > long battle with the DMV. I wore them down. It took since last July. > Again thanks. It feels good to win one from the big guys. > Rich Kahn From amalin at mac.com Mon Mar 15 19:18:38 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:18:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> Bob, What's the part number of the K&N air filters for your Tricarb and where did you get them? Al Malin Tricarb On Mar 14, 2010, at 4:13 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Folks, > > For those that have fitted K&N conical air filters to the HS-4 carbs (tri-carb), what did you do with the breather hose? I'd like to fit it to the backing plate of the rear filter, but not sure there's the room to install a 5/8" fitting between the carb dashpot and the rubber lip of the filter. > > Cheers, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Mar 15 19:31:20 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:31:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: References: <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <751d05481003151931g10acf904m376d50cc3ebd4a68@mail.gmail.com> Fellow Listers Roger and Rich are correct.. please document those item you feel are original, especially on the 100s since there is still a lot we don't know. Personally, I have been looking for more evidence that some of the OEW BN1's with green interiors came with a green dash and a silver instrument cluster versus the accepted matching white dash and silver instrument cluster. If you feel that an item on your car is original and it differs from the Concours Guidelines (especially for the 100s) then contact Roger, Rich, Kent Lacy or me and we will document that info if we can determine it's credible. One off differenece are usually not enough to change so we try to get trends established and every bit of information helps. Curt On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 6:16 PM, Rich C wrote: > Bill, the entire dash was Healey Blue or just the instrument pod? > > Rich > > > From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 8:25 PM > To: Rich C ; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 > HealeyBlue? > > > My BN1 (#554, Oct 53) came with a two piece dash the same color as the > body, > Healey Blue, Non-metallic. From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Mar 15 19:41:45 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:41:45 EDT Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? Message-ID: <765be.6041ca10.38d049e9@aol.com> I have an early BN1, #598 with a two piece dash. My car was painted Carmine Red and the dash is black with a Carmine Red instrument cluster. I'm pretty darn sure it's the original paint on the dash and cluster also. Hope this adds to the mix. Steven Kingsbury In a message dated 3/15/2010 7:35:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, cnaarndt at gmail.com writes: Fellow Listers Roger and Rich are correct.. please document those item you feel are original, especially on the 100s since there is still a lot we don't know. Personally, I have been looking for more evidence that some of the OEW BN1's with green interiors came with a green dash and a silver instrument cluster versus the accepted matching white dash and silver instrument cluster. If you feel that an item on your car is original and it differs from the Concours Guidelines (especially for the 100s) then contact Roger, Rich, Kent Lacy or me and we will document that info if we can determine it's credible. One off differenece are usually not enough to change so we try to get trends established and every bit of information helps. Curt /options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From ynotink at msn.com Mon Mar 15 19:44:04 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 02:44:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: References: , <32BE233C7C504C0BA88590E86242776F@LIFEBOOK> , Message-ID: The whole thing. I found the original color under a couple of later coats of paint. It was a match to the body color. The first time I mentioned it here there was speculation that at the time the factory was experimenting with color schemes. I like it that way. It extends the body color into the cockpit and makes it seem a little bit more dated and primitive. It would probably be a lot more expensive on an assembly line. If you were to do it to every car the dash would have to be special to the car. If they were all the same you could just pull from a stack of identical parts on the line. I think the black and silver, and the single piece dash, was probably standardized as a cost saving move. Again, this was non-metallic paint, which was a little less common than the metallic Healey Blue. Bill Lawrence From: richchrysler at quickclic.net To: ynotink at msn.com; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:16:29 -0400 Bill, the entire dash was Healey Blue or just the instrument pod? Rich From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 8:25 PM To: Rich C ; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? My BN1 (#554, Oct 53) came with a two piece dash the same color as the body, Healey Blue, Non-metallic. Bill Lawrence > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 09:48:04 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? > > Usually the instrument panel on a Healey Blue Hundred is a dark midnight > blue with silver instrument pod. However, we've observed a few original > exceptions here. Some of the early 2 piece dashes had the separate > instrument pod painted Healey Blue, though most were silver. A few later > BN1's with single piece dash pressing seemed to be painted all black. An > example here is John Wheatley's very original BN1, though that's the only > one I've ever personally seen. I believe his was built about May of '54. > As for formulas for the dark blue and the silver, I'll quote from my > painter's notes: From csooch1 at aol.com Mon Mar 15 20:06:45 2010 From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:06:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: References: <4B9E83C7.8000408@chello.nl><1975355135.14314431268687407272.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <60FB58AE02724C7291DC8E402B6AC4AB@ChrisPC> Tom, I bought K&N filters and housings from a fellow at the Carlisle Import show in '98 or '99 that was a member of the Northeast Region Healey crew. I think he was big into racing Sprites. He was a friend of Bob Bender, former president of that part of the AHCA, who I bought my car from. I can't remember his name but I think he got them from a guy in Australia that had made up a number of these cast aluminum housings, that took a conical K&N. They have an air horn cast into the section that mounts to the carb and are really nice. Both aluminum parts were painted gray. I had never and have never since seen a set like that so I bought a set for $200, which was a LOT for me at the time. I don't think K&N ever made anything like this for the Healey and even when I bought them I questioned if I could ever find a replacement filter should I need one. Somewhere (no idea where) I have the part number for the filter, but it won't do anyone any good without the aluminum castings. Cheers, Chris BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 6:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter I checked the K&N website looking for a K&N air filter to fit my BJ8, and K&N sez that nothing is available. Where is everyone getting K&N air filters for the HD8 carbs? - Tom From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Mar 15 20:37:07 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 23:37:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net> <4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> Message-ID: <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> Al, K&N Part Number is 59-9320. I had bought a couple (from Moss?) some time ago thinking I would back date the 80 MGB to twin SU carbs. Bought the third from K&N via ebay for $57. These have a stamped steel housings. K&N lists this filter for the HIF4 carb and don't have any listings for the HS4. If anyone near Riverside, CA has these fitted to a tri-carb, it might be nice to stop by K&N and show them. I'll probably send them an email/photo. To Chris' email: I did check with APT about fitting air horns, but they didn't think there was enough room with the conical filter to be effective. I remember someone telling me about the Australian aluminum housings at the car show at Conclave last year. Will have to see if I can remember who told me. To those that have send me suggestions for the breather, thanks. Will let the list know what I end up with. Cheers, Bob Al Malin wrote: > Bob, > > What's the part number of the K&N air filters for your Tricarb and where did > you get them? > > Al Malin > Tricarb From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Mar 15 20:57:16 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 03:57:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Fw=3A_Re=3A__HEALEY_DOES_195_MPH?= Message-ID: <20100316035716.10732.qmail@server278.com> susie, can you believe this? > -------Original Message------- > From: Alan Seigrist > To: Joe and Lenore Armour > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] HEALEY DOES 195 MPH > Sent: Mar 14 '10 02:54 > > Boy oh boy, who needs a Bugatti Veyron??? > > Awesome!!! > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 8:00 AM, Joe and Lenore Armour < > sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote: > > > Tony Ash who was at Bonnerville has just rung and given an overview of > > Steve and David Pikes excellant experience at Australia's salt lake, Lake > > Gardiner.. Official time 189 mph and the time recorded with a gps, > > 195 mph. > > Reid Trummel was present so I guess he will write the story up very soon. > > A great effort on only the team,s second trip to the salt with a 1954 car > > that between the wheel base is all Donald Healey based production items. > > Obviously Gerry Coker had an eye for speed as well as style. > > > > Congratulations to Steve ,David and Helen Pike. All done from a workshop > > base in Bacchus Marsh Australia. > > > > Joe > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeymanjim at hansencc.net From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Mar 15 21:06:15 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 21:06:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net> <4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4B9F03B7.2060105@comcast.net> APT has stub stacks which should fit under these. bs Bob Haskell wrote: > Al, > > K&N Part Number is 59-9320. I had bought a couple (from Moss?) some > time ago thinking I would back date the 80 MGB to twin SU carbs. > Bought the third from K&N via ebay for $57. These have a stamped > steel housings. K&N lists this filter for the HIF4 carb and don't > have any listings for the HS4. If anyone near Riverside, CA has these > fitted to a tri-carb, it might be nice to stop by K&N and show them. > I'll probably send them an email/photo. > > To Chris' email: I did check with APT about fitting air horns, but > they didn't think there was enough room with the conical filter to be > effective. I remember someone telling me about the Australian > aluminum housings at the car show at Conclave last year. Will have to > see if I can remember who told me. > > To those that have send me suggestions for the breather, thanks. Will > let the list know what I end up with. > > Cheers, > > Bob ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 15 22:11:37 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:11:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Need a lotto HOLE help Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100315220840.0205e0b8@pop.att.yahoo.com> On the rear shroud, my welder filled in the license plate electrical lead hole. Would someone be so kind to tell me it's diameter? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 From david at dleong.org Tue Mar 16 01:26:38 2010 From: david at dleong.org (David Leong) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 01:26:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 24 Hours of LeMons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002f01cac4e2$66155ed0$32401c70$@org> Here are some pics http://www.dleong.org/2010/lemons/lemons.html Dave -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 6:56 PM To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] 24 Hours of LeMons Anyone go to this event at Sears Point? Looks like it could be great fun. Maybe I'll do it next year. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ From bernard.johnsen at ngc.com Tue Mar 16 05:10:02 2010 From: bernard.johnsen at ngc.com (Johnsen, Bernard F (AS)) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 07:10:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> Message-ID: <212DD23A1FC4D74BA8265F76926DF1200A5528@XMBIL101.northgrum.com> Folks - With all this talk about air filters, you might want to have a look at this site - www.su-filters.com NFI. -Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 9:05 PM To: 'I Erbs'; 'Tom'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter Or HS4, for that matter ... Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From bn1 at pacbell.net Tue Mar 16 09:34:55 2010 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 09:34:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What color should the instrument panel be for BN1 HealeyBlue? In-Reply-To: <765be.6041ca10.38d049e9@aol.com> References: <765be.6041ca10.38d049e9@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B9FB32F.3070401@pacbell.net> List, My BN1 #663 is Carmine Red w/black interior and red piping. It has a 2 piece facia exactly as Steve describes. When I restored it, I did not strip the cluster as the paint was fine and I liked the red and black setting off the interior. I had always heard it should be silver so I thought the original owner before me had changed it. Now, perhaps not. Please add me to the mix along with fellow So. Cal. Assoc. member, Steve. Bill Barnett '53 Red Car - Second Owner On 3/15/2010 07:41 PM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > I have an early BN1, #598 with a two piece dash. My car was painted Carmine > Red and the dash is black with a Carmine Red instrument cluster. I'm > pretty darn sure it's the original paint on the dash and cluster also. > Hope this adds to the mix. > Steven Kingsbury From peter.svilans at rogers.com Tue Mar 16 10:03:33 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:03:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What colour hould the instrument panel be Message-ID: <001901cac52a$9ce48240$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> There is a large full page colour advert dated August 8, 1956, in Punch magazine featuring two colour photos of a RHD Carmine Red car with black interior with red piping. The dash panel is black and it has a red instrument panel. Best Peter From al at bighealey.org Tue Mar 16 10:43:28 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:43:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hidden Radio Antenna Message-ID: <006601cac530$305bb8e0$91132aa0$@org> All: Do any of you have experience with hidden or invisible radio antennas? I'm thinking about installing a AM/FM radio in my '62 BT-7, and want to avoid drilling a hole for a conventional antenna. The car has already been converted to negative ground, and has an alternator, so I'm not concerned about having enough electrons for this . I understand the hot rodders use these antennas, but I don't know anybody personally - any experience here?? Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Mar 16 11:28:51 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 11:28:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday Message-ID: <66CC053AC94F4146A95594BD8354471C@LeonardPCPC> HBJ8L39031 turned 43 today. Conceived (built) 10-17 November 1966. Delivered (dispatched) 16 Mar 1967. It was a "home delivery" but spent the first couple of years of its life in Spain which explains why it is 'left handed'. Complexion blue over white. Adopted from previous parent (owner) in October, 1970. Has lived with us ever since. (The Other) Len Vacaville, California, USA 1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031 From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 12:43:29 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (AlanB) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 19:43:29 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net><4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <08C80F3E7A8A4E96A94A8A9B6F1273D0@Dell> Team. I have been in touch with K&N and they identify Part number 56-9247 as the most appropriate for a 3000 with two carbs. http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=56-9247 It is a classic pancake filter with a diameter of 6" and a depth of 2". A bit bigger than the 59-9320 but then we have almost double the displacement of an MGB. The backing plates are blank and have to be opened up to match the HD6 or 8 carbs. That gives the opportunity to offset the rear one lower to clear the shroud. As for the breather hole, my vote is don't bother. Fit a PCV valve as detailed in Norman's Tech Talk. A superb and discrete mod that completely eliminates the oil leaks caused by crankcase pressure. I fitted the air filters and PCV to my BJ8 and will be doing the same again to my modified BN4 which will soon be fitted with a slightly breathed on 3000 engine. DWR cam, gas flowed head, HD8's. Read about the PCV mod at http://www.nfahc.co.uk/PCV/ _____________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: 16 March 2010 03:37 To: Al Malin Cc: Healeys List Subject: Re: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter Al, K&N Part Number is 59-9320. I had bought a couple (from Moss?) some time ago thinking I would back date the 80 MGB to twin SU carbs. Bought the third from K&N via ebay for $57. These have a stamped steel housings. K&N lists this filter for the HIF4 carb and don't have any listings for the HS4. If anyone near Riverside, CA has these fitted to a tri-carb, it might be nice to stop by K&N and show them. I'll probably send them an email/photo. To Chris' email: I did check with APT about fitting air horns, but they didn't think there was enough room with the conical filter to be effective. I remember someone telling me about the Australian aluminum housings at the car show at Conclave last year. Will have to see if I can remember who told me. To those that have send me suggestions for the breather, thanks. Will let the list know what I end up with. Cheers, Bob From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 12:53:56 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 14:53:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Hidden Radio Antenna In-Reply-To: <006601cac530$305bb8e0$91132aa0$@org> References: <006601cac530$305bb8e0$91132aa0$@org> Message-ID: <9baa446a1003161253s6e9867c7ifc020f3ca4045f25@mail.gmail.com> al. i've been thinking about doing the same thing and had been considering using one of the short black composite antennas under the passenger outer sill. cheers, jerry On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 12:43 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > All: Do any of you have experience with hidden or invisible radio > antennas? > I'm thinking about installing a AM/FM radio in my '62 BT-7, and want to > avoid drilling a hole for a conventional antenna. The car has already been > converted to negative ground, and has an alternator, so I'm not concerned > about having enough electrons for this . > > > > I understand the hot rodders use these antennas, but I don't know anybody > personally - any experience here?? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Mar 16 13:11:48 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 16:11:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday In-Reply-To: <66CC053AC94F4146A95594BD8354471C@LeonardPCPC> References: <66CC053AC94F4146A95594BD8354471C@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <002201cac544$e8ddabd0$ba990370$@rr.com> Congrats to THE FIRST MRS. HARTNETT, Len! May she enjoy many more, and may you enjoy them right along with her. Happy birthday also to: 31036, dispatched 16 March 1965 to New York. 31100, dispatched 16 March 1965 to Sweden. 35088, dispatched 16 March 1966 to Montreal. 35130, dispatched 16 March 1966 to Baltimore. 35399, dispatched 16 March 1966 to New York 35458, dispatched 16 March 1966 to P. Pike & Co., Ltd., Exeter, England 40476, dispatched 16 March 1967 to U.S. East Coast 40591, dispatched as Personal Export Delivery for the USA Happy Healeying! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 2:29 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday HBJ8L39031 turned 43 today. Conceived (built) 10-17 November 1966. Delivered (dispatched) 16 Mar 1967. It was a "home delivery" but spent the first couple of years of its life in Spain which explains why it is 'left handed'. Complexion blue over white. Adopted from previous parent (owner) in October, 1970. Has lived with us ever since. (The Other) Len Vacaville, California, USA 1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031 From kags at shaw.ca Tue Mar 16 14:20:58 2010 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 14:20:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hidden Radio Antenna References: <006601cac530$305bb8e0$91132aa0$@org> <9baa446a1003161253s6e9867c7ifc020f3ca4045f25@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <11DE82D96C6C4C909F37CCC23E11E40A@computer> Al / Jerry: http://www.ecshylites.com/page/page/603561.htm I've had one of these things sitting around - destined for my as yet uncompleted BJ8. Don't see why it won't work - I figured I'd simply throw it up under the dash somewhere - it needs to be 3/4" away from steel on one side, according to the instructions. Not expensive, and worth a try. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry wall" To: "Al Fuller" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 12:53 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hidden Radio Antenna al. i've been thinking about doing the same thing and had been considering using one of the short black composite antennas under the passenger outer sill. cheers, jerry On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 12:43 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > All: Do any of you have experience with hidden or invisible radio > antennas? > I'm thinking about installing a AM/FM radio in my '62 BT-7, and want to > avoid drilling a hole for a conventional antenna. The car has already > been > converted to negative ground, and has an alternator, so I'm not concerned > about having enough electrons for this . > > > > I understand the hot rodders use these antennas, but I don't know anybody > personally - any experience here?? > > > > Al Fuller From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 14:57:54 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 14:57:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] which carb set up? Message-ID: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com> i have been looking into improving my carb set up on my BT7 I have two HD6s My engine is 40 + bore and I have a 3/4 race cam. I have a lead on a complete tri-card set up and a complete BJ8 set up. I like the idea of the tri carb, but think the BJ8 carbs will be 30% less hassle. what say you oh knowledgeable ones or even you regulars who think you are knowledgeable :)? Thanks, BTW the cost after rebuilding is about 25% more for the tri carbs -- I Erbs Portland, OR From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Mar 16 16:18:28 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:18:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] which carb set up? In-Reply-To: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Area = pi *r * r (pi times radius squared) 1" x 1" (radius squared) x 3.14 (pi) x 2 (carbs) = 6.28" sq. in. for double 2" carbs .75" X 75" x 3.14 x 3 = 5.30" sq. in. for triple 1,5" carbs This is of course the theoritical "maximum pipe" for airflow, actual will also be affected by the throttle plate and such, but theortically the double 2 inchers can flow almost 20% more air. Of course the triples give you a straighter shot to the ports, I suppose there is a reason older high performance engines like Ferrari and such often had an intake carb barrel for each intake port. But it doesn't look like you lose anything, and may actually gain, with the double carb set up. Maybe some of the racer boys can pop in with some real world experience. Greg Lemon From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Mar 16 16:57:58 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 19:57:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <08C80F3E7A8A4E96A94A8A9B6F1273D0@Dell> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net><4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> <08C80F3E7A8A4E96A94A8A9B6F1273D0@Dell> Message-ID: <4BA01B06.1080709@earthlink.net> Alan, I like the idea of using a PCV valve. Not sure how to fit one to the rear tri-carb manifold. Anyone do it? The original Coopers filters fitted to the tri-carb are roughly 5" in diameter for about 20 square inches. If I got the correct equation (new word for the day: frustum of cone) from of my copy of Machinery Handbook, the K&N 59-9320 filter has an area of around 25 square inches. Ought to be adequate, but I don't have a flow bench to confirm. The dual carb setups have a larger air filters, so I would think/agree that a filter larger than the 59-9320 would be required. Cheers, Bob AlanB wrote: > Team. > I have been in touch with K&N and they identify Part number 56-9247 as the > most appropriate for a 3000 with two carbs. > http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=56-9247 > It is a classic pancake filter with a diameter of 6" and a depth of 2". A > bit bigger than the 59-9320 but then we have almost double the displacement > of an MGB. The backing plates are blank and have to be opened up to match > the HD6 or 8 carbs. That gives the opportunity to offset the rear one lower > to clear the shroud. > > As for the breather hole, my vote is don't bother. Fit a PCV valve as > detailed in Norman's Tech Talk. A superb and discrete mod that completely > eliminates the oil leaks caused by crankcase pressure. I fitted the air > filters and PCV to my BJ8 and will be doing the same again to my modified > BN4 which will soon be fitted with a slightly breathed on 3000 engine. DWR > cam, gas flowed head, HD8's. > Read about the PCV mod at > http://www.nfahc.co.uk/PCV/ > _____________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) > (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) From ynotink at msn.com Tue Mar 16 17:07:53 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 00:07:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] which carb set up? In-Reply-To: References: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com>, Message-ID: My understanding was that the only reason the Healeys went to the tri-carb configuration was because, they would then be able to fit three Webers on their rally cars. Three carburetors was three carburetors to the rules committee. They also provided an advantage over the twin HD6s used on the earlier cars as shown by your calculation, but at the cost of added complexity. It didn't take them long to revert to two. Bill Lawrence > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > To: eyera3 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:18:28 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] which carb set up? > > Area = pi *r * r (pi times radius squared) > > 1" x 1" (radius squared) x 3.14 (pi) x 2 (carbs) = 6.28" sq. in. for double > 2" carbs > > .75" X 75" x 3.14 x 3 = 5.30" sq. in. for triple 1,5" carbs > > This is of course the theoritical "maximum pipe" for airflow, actual will > also be affected by the throttle plate and such, but theortically the double > 2 inchers can flow almost 20% more air. Of course the triples give you a > straighter shot to the ports, I suppose there is a reason older high > performance engines like Ferrari and such often had an intake carb barrel > for each intake port. > > But it doesn't look like you lose anything, and may actually gain, with the > double carb set up. > > Maybe some of the racer boys can pop in with some real world experience. > > Greg Lemon > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From csooch1 at aol.com Tue Mar 16 17:16:30 2010 From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 19:16:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net><4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Bob, Perhaps I could have been more clear. Only the radius of an air horn has been cast into the housing. It doesn't actually stick out into clean air area within the filter at all. Basically the radius is there to smooth airflow into the carb, but that's really all it is. Cheers, Chris -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 10:37 PM To: Al Malin Cc: Healeys List Subject: Re: [Healeys] breather for K&N air filter Al, K&N Part Number is 59-9320. I had bought a couple (from Moss?) some time ago thinking I would back date the 80 MGB to twin SU carbs. Bought the third from K&N via ebay for $57. These have a stamped steel housings. K&N lists this filter for the HIF4 carb and don't have any listings for the HS4. If anyone near Riverside, CA has these fitted to a tri-carb, it might be nice to stop by K&N and show them. I'll probably send them an email/photo. To Chris' email: I did check with APT about fitting air horns, but they didn't think there was enough room with the conical filter to be effective. I remember someone telling me about the Australian aluminum housings at the car show at Conclave last year. Will have to see if I can remember who told me. To those that have send me suggestions for the breather, thanks. Will let the list know what I end up with. Cheers, Bob Al Malin wrote: > Bob, > > What's the part number of the K&N air filters for your Tricarb and > where did you get them? > > Al Malin > Tricarb _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/chris.masucci at alumni.rutgers.e du From ynotink at msn.com Tue Mar 16 17:22:22 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 00:22:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] which carb set up? In-Reply-To: References: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com>, , , Message-ID: Ooops! let me try that again. I was assuming HS6s on the tri-carb, but they are only 1.5 inch carbs. By my calculation the twin HD6 carbs would have an area of 4.8 square inches, so the three HS4s still have a marginally larger area. I guess I was right in spite of myself. Bill lawrence > From: ynotink at msn.com > To: glemon at neb.rr.com; eyera3 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 00:07:53 +0000 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] which carb set up? > > My understanding was that the only reason the Healeys went to the tri-carb > configuration was because, they would then be able to fit three Webers on > their rally cars. Three carburetors was three carburetors to the rules > committee. They also provided an advantage over the twin HD6s used on the > earlier cars as shown by your calculation, but at the cost of added > complexity. It didn't take them long to revert to two. > Bill Lawrence > > > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > > To: eyera3 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:18:28 -0500 > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] which carb set up? > > > > Area = pi *r * r (pi times radius squared) > > > > 1" x 1" (radius squared) x 3.14 (pi) x 2 (carbs) = 6.28" sq. in. for double > > 2" carbs > > > > .75" X 75" x 3.14 x 3 = 5.30" sq. in. for triple 1,5" carbs > > > > This is of course the theoritical "maximum pipe" for airflow, actual will > > also be affected by the throttle plate and such, but theortically the double > > 2 inchers can flow almost 20% more air. Of course the triples give you a > > straighter shot to the ports, I suppose there is a reason older high > > performance engines like Ferrari and such often had an intake carb barrel > > for each intake port. > > > > But it doesn't look like you lose anything, and may actually gain, with the > > double carb set up. > > > > Maybe some of the racer boys can pop in with some real world experience. > > > > Greg Lemon > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Mar 16 17:29:20 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:29:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] which carb set up? In-Reply-To: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <9EBBBAB7B60244D7AB8A3BF18A5A166B@LIFEBOOK> Ira, First you were so happy to have your car finally sorted out as a 3000 BT7. Now you want to change it for "more". I dunno about you! For the record, I had a tricarb many years ago for 9 years and many thousands of miles and absolutely loved it. No appreciable extra "hassles". Consistently better gas mileage than any other 3000. Never went out of tune. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "I Erbs" Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:57 PM To: "healey help" Subject: [Healeys] which carb set up? > i have been looking into improving my carb set up on my BT7 > I have two HD6s > My engine is 40 + bore and I have a 3/4 race cam. > I have a lead on a complete tri-card set up and a complete BJ8 set up. > I like the idea of the tri carb, but think the BJ8 carbs will be 30% less > hassle. > what say you oh knowledgeable ones or even you regulars who think you are > knowledgeable :)? > Thanks, > BTW the cost after rebuilding is about 25% more for the tri carbs > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 17:39:40 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:39:40 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Hidden Radio Antenna In-Reply-To: <006601cac530$305bb8e0$91132aa0$@org> References: <006601cac530$305bb8e0$91132aa0$@org> Message-ID: The main thing is these should be mounted outside the body, probably between the bumper and body somewhere, or behind the grill openings. On 3/17/10, Al Fuller wrote: > All: Do any of you have experience with hidden or invisible radio antennas? > I'm thinking about installing a AM/FM radio in my '62 BT-7, and want to > avoid drilling a hole for a conventional antenna. The car has already been > converted to negative ground, and has an alternator, so I'm not concerned > about having enough electrons for this . > > > > I understand the hot rodders use these antennas, but I don't know anybody > personally - any experience here?? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From pennell at cox.net Tue Mar 16 17:45:11 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:45:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny Message-ID: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28> Q: Why do chicken coupes have 2 doors? A: If they had 4 doors they would be chicken sedans. From pennell at cox.net Tue Mar 16 17:47:00 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:47:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny II Message-ID: <20100316204700.0M4XL.1057360.imail@eastrmwml28> Q: Why did the owners of the coliseum in Rome fire the lions? A: They kept eating the prophets. From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 17:49:55 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:49:55 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28> References: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: It's coops not coupes. And Concours not concourse. Anyone else have a joke that needs deconstruction? On 3/17/10, pennell at cox.net wrote: > Q: Why do chicken coupes have 2 doors? > > A: If they had 4 doors they would be chicken sedans. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Tue Mar 16 18:27:06 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:27:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny In-Reply-To: References: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: <4BA02FEA.60302@justbrits.com> Hot dam*, Alan !!!!! With THIS opening [penned by YOU]: << The main thing is these should be mounted outside the body, >> Bunk !!! Ask ANY Hot Rodder with a 'hidden' radio !!! You could also ask any very undercover cop that DEPENDS on the re-cycled 'Vette [from gang- banger & relocated] and he WILL tell you his two-way radio works just fine !! Ed From m.brouillette at comcast.net Tue Mar 16 18:27:19 2010 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (Mike Brouillette) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 21:27:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Response from Ebay item #270546140139 seller Message-ID: <44D9C82D0EEE4A008D7D635BDF9E6248@Healey> From: sidney young Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:59 PM To: m.brouillette at comcast.net Subject: RE: xxx has sent a question about item #270546140139, ending on Mar-20-10 03:09:10 PDT - Austin Healey tks for the info help me with engine # AEC 960 AND BODY TAG BN4 whic is or both inconsistant with 1957 when i ordered from moss 1957 parts all fited including all gaskets and seals, i am not preting to know a lot only going by body tag BN4 , engine #AEC 960 and grill 106 call any time 443-614-2415 410-742-3306 tks sid From logical2 at hotmail.com Tue Mar 16 18:27:49 2010 From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 01:27:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial In-Reply-To: <002701cac45c$1429f5d0$3c7de170$@rr.com> References: <9baa446a1003150828g4eb19c06nc18c249d46b66bc3@mail.gmail.com>, <002701cac45c$1429f5d0$3c7de170$@rr.com> Message-ID: I like the idea of swearing less. Where can I find mr.finespanner and his clutch extension? 62 BJ7 Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > From: sbyers at ec.rr.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:25:08 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial > > I'll add my testimonial to Jerry's endorsement: > > During our return through Colorado on the way home from Conclave in San > Diego, my traveling companion said his clutch wasn't working well at the > altitude. We figured he had air in the lines, so stopped at a NAPA store > for some silicone fluid and tubing. With Mr. Finespanner's extension on > George's slave cylinder, it was a simple 5-minute job to bleed the clutch > and then all was well -- no crawling under the car to try to access the > slave cylinder, no tedious pumping of the brake pedal. > > Note: I cannot install the extension in my BJ8 because I have the earlier > style spin-on oil filter adapter that holds the filter in the same > orientation as the original canister. This interferes with the extension. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of jerry wall > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 11:29 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial > > while installing a rebuilt 3000 sideshift trany, i installed doug reid's ( > mr.finespanner ) slave cylinder extension. upon comletion, and having the > carpet and seats installed, i discovered i couldn't pump up the clutch. > rebuilt the master cylinder and bleeding the clutch was a breeze with the > extension in place. > if you have occasion to have the trany cover removed, consider installing > doug's extension. great labor saver. no financial interest. just a highly > satisfied customer. > > -- > jerry wall BN6 > rowlett, tx > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From shop at justbrits.com Tue Mar 16 18:29:44 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:29:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28> References: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: <4BA03088.8030803@justbrits.com> Keith: << Q: Why do chicken coupes have 2 doors? A: If they had 4 doors they would be chicken sedans. _______________________________________>> That is SO bad I won't even "subject" my "Joke List" [9issa, which you ALL are welcome to join] to it !!!!! & LOL ! Ed From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 18:46:38 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:46:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Response from Ebay item #270546140139 seller In-Reply-To: <44D9C82D0EEE4A008D7D635BDF9E6248@Healey> References: <44D9C82D0EEE4A008D7D635BDF9E6248@Healey> Message-ID: Well.... It appears to me that this could in fact be legitimate, as that is the proper casting number for the 12 port head, right? Seems the guy just really isn't much of a computer guy/ car guy or all that good at communication. If someone makes the effort to go see it, it could be interesting. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 9:27 AM, Mike Brouillette wrote: > From: sidney young > Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:59 PM > To: m.brouillette at comcast.net > Subject: RE: xxx has sent a question about item #270546140139, ending on > Mar-20-10 03:09:10 PDT - Austin Healey > > > tks for the info > help me with engine # AEC 960 AND BODY TAG BN4 whic is or both > inconsistant > with 1957 > when i ordered from moss 1957 parts all fited including all gaskets and > seals, > i am not preting to know a lot only going by body tag BN4 , engine #AEC 960 > and grill 106 > call any time 443-614-2415 410-742-3306 > tks > sid > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Mar 16 19:08:08 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:08:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial In-Reply-To: References: <9baa446a1003150828g4eb19c06nc18c249d46b66bc3@mail.gmail.com>, <002701cac45c$1429f5d0$3c7de170$@rr.com> Message-ID: <013c01cac576$b0d544a0$127fcde0$@net> Doug Reid's (Mr. Finespanner) email is: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net but before you email him go to: http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical/brakelines.html for a price list etc. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Edwards Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 9:28 PM To: sbyers at ec.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] slave cylinder extension product testimonial I like the idea of swearing less. Where can I find mr.finespanner and his clutch extension? 62 BJ7 Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Tue Mar 16 19:16:12 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:16:12 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted Message-ID: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> Okay, so I work on trying to make using the Team.Net email lists as painless as possible. Sure, there are policies and procedures some folks might quibble about, but all in all things go pretty smoothly. Take, for example, unsubscribing. The Mailman list manager makes it fairly obvious. Each message from the list has RFC2369 headers, which most modern, intelligent mailers can present to the user. These headers include lines such as List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Post: List-Help: List-Subscribe: , Such info can be helpful to some, but is usually not displayed by default, so that can be a bit daunting to those who have a fear of technology or some such. One thing that each and every list message includes are those lines down at the bottom that most of you ignore. Like the one that I recently modified to make as obvious as possible: Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/you at your.domain Click on that, then click the resulting unsubscribe box, and there you go. Plus on the morning of the 4th of every month Mailman sends out a subscription reminder message which includes a link to the unsubscribe page. So easy a caveman can do it, right? Well, I get this message which reads, in part: This is my 15th request. Please remove me from HealeysMail List. Do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can make it any easier for people like this to be able to manage their own subscriptions? Or am I just stuck for time and all eternity with braindead human debris that has to have their Net.Mommy wipe their Net.Ass for them? mjb. ps: I wonder where the previous 14 messages went? From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Mar 16 19:33:21 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 21:33:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted In-Reply-To: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <20100316213321.H44I9.505440.root@ispmxfep14-z02> My suggestion---ignore them. Anyone who cannot understand the process that is written so well deserves a little aggravation until THEY figure it out. Just my 2C/s tom ---- Mark J Bradakis wrote: ============= Okay, so I work on trying to make using the Team.Net email lists as painless as possible. Sure, there are policies and procedures some folks might quibble about, but all in all things go pretty smoothly. Take, for example, unsubscribing. The Mailman list manager makes it fairly obvious. Each message from the list has RFC2369 headers, which most modern, intelligent mailers can present to the user. These headers include lines such as List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Post: List-Help: List-Subscribe: , Such info can be helpful to some, but is usually not displayed by default, so that can be a bit daunting to those who have a fear of technology or some such. One thing that each and every list message includes are those lines down at the bottom that most of you ignore. Like the one that I recently modified to make as obvious as possible: Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/you at your.domain Click on that, then click the resulting unsubscribe box, and there you go. Plus on the morning of the 4th of every month Mailman sends out a subscription reminder message which includes a link to the unsubscribe page. So easy a caveman can do it, right? Well, I get this message which reads, in part: This is my 15th request. Please remove me from HealeysMail List. Do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can make it any easier for people like this to be able to manage their own subscriptions? Or am I just stuck for time and all eternity with braindead human debris that has to have their Net.Mommy wipe their Net.Ass for them? mjb. ps: I wonder where the previous 14 messages went? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 19:38:55 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 19:38:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted In-Reply-To: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> References: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <173126441003161938w21482b8cp42cb34f2e96a53fd@mail.gmail.com> If you figure how to deal with on line, let me know and maybe I can try it in the real world :) There will always be early adopters, late adopters, over my dead body adopters and those who should only use a typewriter. Ira Erbs Technology trainer/instructor On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 7:16 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Okay, so I work on trying to make using the Team.Net email lists > as painless as possible. Sure, there are policies and procedures some > folks might quibble about, but all in all things go pretty smoothly. > > Take, for example, unsubscribing. The Mailman list manager makes it > fairly obvious. Each message from the list has RFC2369 headers, which > most modern, intelligent mailers can present to the user. These headers > include lines such as > > List-Unsubscribe: , > > List-Archive: > List-Post: > List-Help: > List-Subscribe: , > > > > Such info can be helpful to some, but is usually not displayed by > default, so that can be a bit daunting to those who have a fear of > technology or some such. > > One thing that each and every list message includes are those lines > down at the bottom that most of you ignore. Like the one that I > recently modified to make as obvious as possible: > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/you at your.domain > > Click on that, then click the resulting unsubscribe box, and there you go. > > Plus on the morning of the 4th of every month Mailman sends out a > subscription reminder message which includes a link to the unsubscribe > page. So easy a caveman can do it, right? > > Well, I get this message which reads, in part: > > This is my 15th request. > > Please remove me from HealeysMail List. > > > > Do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can make it any easier for > people like this to be able to manage their own subscriptions? Or am I > just stuck for time and all eternity with braindead human debris that has > to have their Net.Mommy wipe their Net.Ass for them? > > > mjb. > > ps: I wonder where the previous 14 messages went? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From mark at bradakis.com Tue Mar 16 19:44:46 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:44:46 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Archive note Message-ID: <4BA0421E.8070803@bradakis.com> In my recent unsubscribe whining I noticed that the header for the archive pointed to the Mailman version. I should fix that. The interface at http://www.team.net/archive presents a much better, in my opinion, user interface and search capability. mjb. From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 16 19:49:04 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 19:49:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4BA01B06.1080709@earthlink.net> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net><4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> <08C80F3E7A8A4E96A94A8A9B6F1273D0@Dell> <4BA01B06.1080709@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <837322.66642.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> All, Tom's Import Toys (http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1) offers a nice looking breather option you might want t consider for only $10. No financial interest. Cheers, Carlos Cruz ________________________________ From: Bob Haskell To: AlanB Cc: Healeys List Sent: Tue, March 16, 2010 6:57:58 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filter Alan, I like the idea of using a PCV valve. Not sure how to fit one to the rear tri-carb manifold. Anyone do it? The original Coopers filters fitted to the tri-carb are roughly 5" in diameter for about 20 square inches. If I got the correct equation (new word for the day: frustum of cone) from of my copy of Machinery Handbook, the K&N 59-9320 filter has an area of around 25 square inches. Ought to be adequate, but I don't have a flow bench to confirm. The dual carb setups have a larger air filters, so I would think/agree that a filter larger than the 59-9320 would be required. Cheers, Bob AlanB wrote: > Team. > I have been in touch with K&N and they identify Part number 56-9247 as the > most appropriate for a 3000 with two carbs. > http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=56-9247 > It is a classic pancake filter with a diameter of 6" and a depth of 2". A > bit bigger than the 59-9320 but then we have almost double the displacement > of an MGB. The backing plates are blank and have to be opened up to match > the HD6 or 8 carbs. That gives the opportunity to offset the rear one lower > to clear the shroud. > > As for the breather hole, my vote is don't bother. Fit a PCV valve as > detailed in Norman's Tech Talk. A superb and discrete mod that completely > eliminates the oil leaks caused by crankcase pressure. I fitted the air > filters and PCV to my BJ8 and will be doing the same again to my modified > BN4 which will soon be fitted with a slightly breathed on 3000 engine. DWR > cam, gas flowed head, HD8's. > Read about the PCV mod at > http://www.nfahc.co.uk/PCV/ > _____________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) > (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Mar 16 19:56:18 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 02:56:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Archive note In-Reply-To: <4BA0421E.8070803@bradakis.com> References: <4BA0421E.8070803@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Mark: I am sure the majority of the people on the list have no difficulty with unsubscribing, there will always be a few that will have problems, no need to change anything, deal with these few on a one on one basis, providing it does not take too much of your time. In time, everyone will be on the same page, there will likely be some with challenges for a few years yet. Jean Caron > Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:44:46 -0600 > From: mark at bradakis.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Archive note > > In my recent unsubscribe whining I noticed that the header for the archive > pointed to the Mailman version. I should fix that. The interface at > > http://www.team.net/archive > > presents a much better, in my opinion, user interface and search capability. > > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Check your Hotmail from your phone. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9712957 From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 16 20:27:49 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:27:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted In-Reply-To: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> References: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <27218.70019.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mark, I'm not sure how you can make unsubscribing any easier than it already is, however I do have a few suggestions that might make the list a bit more lister-friendly. Basically the introduction a couple of new list commands including: >>List-FridaySucks - Ensures any humous emails are not delivered thus making your Friday like a Monday - Sucks! List-DreadEd - Automatically eliminates any emails from Ed or any emails containing EdBonics. Thank you in advance for implementing the latter of the two first. I of course wouldn't be using the first - keep the Friday Funnies! In Ed's immortal words... OMG WTF ROFLMAO HEHEHEHE! Cheers, Carlos ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, March 16, 2010 9:16:12 PM Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted Okay, so I work on trying to make using the Team.Net email lists as painless as possible. Sure, there are policies and procedures some folks might quibble about, but all in all things go pretty smoothly. Take, for example, unsubscribing. The Mailman list manager makes it fairly obvious. Each message from the list has RFC2369 headers, which most modern, intelligent mailers can present to the user. These headers include lines such as List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Post: List-Help: List-Subscribe: , Such info can be helpful to some, but is usually not displayed by default, so that can be a bit daunting to those who have a fear of technology or some such. One thing that each and every list message includes are those lines down at the bottom that most of you ignore. Like the one that I recently modified to make as obvious as possible: Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/you at your.domain Click on that, then click the resulting unsubscribe box, and there you go. Plus on the morning of the 4th of every month Mailman sends out a subscription reminder message which includes a link to the unsubscribe page. So easy a caveman can do it, right? Well, I get this message which reads, in part: This is my 15th request. Please remove me from HealeysMail List. Do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can make it any easier for people like this to be able to manage their own subscriptions? Or am I just stuck for time and all eternity with braindead human debris that has to have their Net.Mommy wipe their Net.Ass for them? mjb. ps: I wonder where the previous 14 messages went? _______________________________________________ From mark at bradakis.com Tue Mar 16 20:40:59 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 21:40:59 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted In-Reply-To: <27218.70019.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> <27218.70019.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BA04F4B.2090304@bradakis.com> > List-DreadEd - Automatically eliminates any emails from Ed or any > emails containing EdBonics. > During the course of a typical day I get dozens of emails at all my various addresses that offer pills and potions to eliminate ED. Perhaps I should start forwarding them to the list as a public service. mjb. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 20:52:35 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:52:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted In-Reply-To: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> References: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> Message-ID: There is only one answer: Institute an an un-subscription fee. Subscribing is free, but it costs money to get out. Look how well it worked for Mr Sabio over at Humor.net http://www.humournet.com/unsub_fee.html (check the links for the further adventures of unsub fees) Rick > > Well, I get this message which reads, in part: > > This is my 15th request. > > Please remove me from HealeysMail List. > > > > Do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can make it any easier for > people like this to be able to manage their own subscriptions? Or am I > just stuck for time and all eternity with braindead human debris that has > to have their Net.Mommy wipe their Net.Ass for them? > > > mjb. > > ps: I wonder where the previous 14 messages went? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Mar 16 20:52:54 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:52:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted In-Reply-To: <27218.70019.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> <27218.70019.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42247A9046644FCC97023483A5F95500@GregPC> I have designed many forms for the masses of people to fill out, no matter how you try to emphasize or simplify there are always some that either don't have the smarts or inclination to "get it". We also seem to have more and more, take a second to glance at it (maybe while I am driving my car and talking to someone on my cel. phone) then tell someone to fix it the way they want it types out there. Although I have to admit the even smart people have this problem, as I was at the hardware store today and swore they had no 10-32 nuts, but then asked the hardware guy and there they were right in front of my face. On a more specific note, the "Ed filter" seems to be malfunctioning, as his notes seem to be getting through to the full list on a more and more regular basis (VBG) Thanks for all the work to make it go. Greg Lemon From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Mar 16 21:00:13 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 21:00:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted In-Reply-To: References: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <173126441003162100r55c3c4d1n666d1956ba0a64c6@mail.gmail.com> Mark, just enter their email address into your spam filter On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 8:52 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > There is only one answer: Institute an an un-subscription fee. > Subscribing is free, but it costs money to get out. > Look how well it worked for Mr Sabio over at Humor.net > http://www.humournet.com/unsub_fee.html (check the links for the further > adventures of unsub fees) > Rick > > > > > Well, I get this message which reads, in part: > > > > This is my 15th request. > > > > Please remove me from HealeysMail List. > > > > > > > > Do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can make it any easier for > > people like this to be able to manage their own subscriptions? Or am I > > just stuck for time and all eternity with braindead human debris that has > > to have their Net.Mommy wipe their Net.Ass for them? > > > > > > mjb. > > > > ps: I wonder where the previous 14 messages went? > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Mar 16 23:55:44 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 07:55:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] air filter In-Reply-To: <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> Message-ID: <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> What strikes me is that in the discussions around air filters and the little available space to accommodate them, nobody is mentioning an air box with a remote air filter. I have never seen these except on some pictures of competition cars It seems to me that a fabricated and lined air box with short (ca. 1/2") fitted trumpets on the carbs throats and a duct/hose to a remote air filter (e.g. K&N ram air filter) or air filter box positioned in cool place would be a better option; a: larger filter area possible, allowing more air/oxygen and fuel in giving some more power b: cooler air thus more air/oxygen and fuel giving even more power c: better flow to the carbs because of the trumpets, allowing more air etc. d: substantial reduction in induction roar if the air box is lined with noise absorbing foam, especially if you have fitted Weber DCOE's / DellOrto DHLA's. On the down side however are looks, of course it looks nicer to have the separate K&N's or equivalent filters. Kees Oudesluijs NL From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 17 00:04:23 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:04:23 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] List admin suggestions wanted In-Reply-To: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> References: <4BA03B6C.8050507@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4BA07EF7.1060101@chello.nl> It is absolutely clear, even to an absolute computer illiterate like me. Just ignore. Kees Oudesluijs NL Mark J Bradakis schreef: > Okay, so I work on trying to make using the Team.Net email lists > as painless as possible. Sure, there are policies and procedures some > folks might quibble about, but all in all things go pretty smoothly. > > Take, for example, unsubscribing. The Mailman list manager makes it > fairly obvious. Each message from the list has RFC2369 headers, which > most modern, intelligent mailers can present to the user. These headers > include lines such as > > List-Unsubscribe: , > > List-Archive: > List-Post: > List-Help: > List-Subscribe: , > > > > Such info can be helpful to some, but is usually not displayed by > default, so that can be a bit daunting to those who have a fear of > technology or some such. > > One thing that each and every list message includes are those lines > down at the bottom that most of you ignore. Like the one that I > recently modified to make as obvious as possible: > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/you at your.domain > > Click on that, then click the resulting unsubscribe box, and there you > go. > > Plus on the morning of the 4th of every month Mailman sends out a > subscription reminder message which includes a link to the unsubscribe > page. So easy a caveman can do it, right? > > Well, I get this message which reads, in part: > > This is my 15th request. > > Please remove me from HealeysMail List. > > > > Do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can make it any easier for > people like this to be able to manage their own subscriptions? Or am I > just stuck for time and all eternity with braindead human debris that has > to have their Net.Mommy wipe their Net.Ass for them? > > > mjb. > > ps: I wonder where the previous 14 messages went? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.790 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2750 - datum van uitgifte: 03/16/10 08:33:00 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 17 01:09:01 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:09:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation Message-ID: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> I have this fitted to my car. It keeps dirt from entering the crankcase but it gets soked in engine oil and eventually drips oil. Kees Oudesluijs NL Carlos Cruz schreef: All, Tom's Import Toys (http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1) offers a nice looking breather option you might want t consider for only $10. No financial interest. Cheers, Carlos Cruz From warthodson at aol.com Wed Mar 17 06:16:32 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:16:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny In-Reply-To: References: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28> Message-ID: <8CC93EB321AFC06-55F0-A6F0@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> >From the same radio show: Q. Why don't cannibals eat divorcees? A. Because they are bitter. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: pennell at cox.net; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Mar 16, 2010 7:49 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny It's coops not coupes. And Concours not concourse. Anyone else have a joke that needs deconstruction? On 3/17/10, pennell at cox.net wrote: Q: Why do chicken coupes have 2 doors? A: If they had 4 doors they would be chicken sedans. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -- ent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 53 BN1 59 Jag Mk IX 64 BJ8 ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com = From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 17 06:21:07 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 06:21:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> That type/size filter is usually used on a PCV-fitted car as an intake filter on a valve cover. One possible problem with the PCV retrofit on a Healey is the PCV valve is usually fitted to draw gases through the 'T' fitting on the valve cover. An exactly correct PCV installation would have the T fitting removed and something like this on the valve cover so air would be drawn in through the valve cover and gases--including blowby and air from inside the valve cover that gets pulled down the pushrod holes--to be sucked into the intake manifold (i.e. a truly closed system). I've considered this for my car but haven't tried it. bs Oudesluys wrote: > I have this fitted to my car. It keeps dirt from entering the > crankcase but it gets soked in engine oil and eventually drips oil. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > Carlos Cruz schreef: > All, > > Tom's Import Toys > (http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1) offers a > nice looking breather option you might want t consider for only $10. > No financial interest. > > Cheers, > Carlos Cruz > _______________________________________________ -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 17 06:29:26 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 06:29:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] air filter In-Reply-To: <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> These Cold Air Intake ('CAI') setups are all the rage with tuners and hotrodders. Some production cars--like new Mustang GTs--have them fitted as well. Donald and Geoff thought they were a good idea, as the 100M had an early implementation (although I remember a 100M racer who claimed straight ram pipes worked better--cold air notwithstanding). Usually, they're claimed to give a few percent HP increase, depending on the car. Would love to have a nice setup for a Big Healey. Might make a set of headers worthwhile. bs Oudesluys wrote: > What strikes me is that in the discussions around air filters and the > little available space to accommodate them, nobody is mentioning an > air box with a remote air filter. I have never seen these except on > some pictures of competition cars > It seems to me that a fabricated and lined air box with short (ca. > 1/2") fitted trumpets on the carbs throats and a duct/hose to a remote > air filter (e.g. K&N ram air filter) or air filter box positioned in > cool place would be a better option; > a: larger filter area possible, allowing more air/oxygen and fuel in > giving some more power > b: cooler air thus more air/oxygen and fuel giving even more power > c: better flow to the carbs because of the trumpets, allowing more > air etc. > d: substantial reduction in induction roar if the air box is lined > with noise absorbing foam, especially if you have fitted Weber DCOE's > / DellOrto DHLA's. > > On the down side however are looks, of course it looks nicer to have > the separate K&N's or equivalent filters. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bluehealey at googlemail.com Wed Mar 17 06:29:29 2010 From: bluehealey at googlemail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:29:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> Message-ID: <40e0020d1003170629l30962143s5cb3eebc57bb3af6@mail.gmail.com> FWIW the PCV fitting as described is definitely a truly closed system. The vacuum can definitely be felt when you open the oil filler cap or lift the dipstick off the sealing washer. Also when air is admitted in that way, engine revs increase slightly as the air gets drawn into the crankcase or rocker box and then imto the inlet manifold. I am surprised that this mod hasn't been adopted more widely. It is a major contribution to solving oil incontinence in our 'mature' engines. On 17 March 2010 13:21, Bob Spidell wrote: > That type/size filter is usually used on a PCV-fitted car as an intake > filter on a valve cover. > One possible problem with the PCV retrofit on a Healey is the PCV valve is > usually fitted to draw gases through the 'T' fitting on the valve cover. An > exactly correct PCV installation would have the T fitting removed and > something like this on the valve cover so air would be drawn in through the > valve cover and gases--including blowby and air from inside the valve cover > that gets pulled down the pushrod holes--to be sucked into the intake > manifold (i.e. a truly closed system). > > I've considered this for my car but haven't tried it. > > > bs > > > > > Oudesluys wrote: >> >> I have this fitted to my car. It keeps dirt from entering the crankcase >> but it gets soked in engine oil and eventually drips oil. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> Carlos Cruz schreef: >> All, >> >> Tom's Import Toys >> (http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1) offers a nice >> looking breather option you might want t consider for only $10. No >> financial interest. >> >> Cheers, >> Carlos Cruz >> _______________________________________________ > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at googlemail.com > -- ___________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) From maxandreb1 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 17 06:36:43 2010 From: maxandreb1 at yahoo.com (Maurice Maxwell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 06:36:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Problems with voltage regulator Message-ID: <815959.507.qm@web58202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Yesterday I backed my Healey out of the garage and drove it for about 10 min then home again. While the engine was idling, it quit. upon examination the armature arm on the cutout was stuck against the coil of the cutout. Pulling the armature from the cutout gave a spark. Turning the car cutoff to off also releases the armature. Can this be repaired or not? If it can be repaired, what needs to be done? How complicated is it to change to an alternator? And is this a better route to follow? Thanks in advance! Max 1961 BT7 From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 17 06:51:35 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 06:51:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <40e0020d1003170629l30962143s5cb3eebc57bb3af6@mail.gmail.com> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> <40e0020d1003170629l30962143s5cb3eebc57bb3af6@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA0DE67.2090608@comcast.net> In this case, 'closed' doesn't mean 'sealed.' It means the system is continuous, with an intake--the filter--and an output--the PCV valve into the manifold. That's how OEM PCV systems work (see: *http://tinyurl.com/yajrlzb )*. To truly breathe, you need an inlet vent (the 'V' in PCV is for 'ventilation'). Ever try pouring gas from a can without opening the vent hole? Pulling a significant vacuum means you're not circulating the gases--the intent of a PCV system. This setup does work well as is, however (I have it on my BJ8). bs Alan Bromfield wrote: > FWIW the PCV fitting as described is definitely a truly closed system. > The vacuum can definitely be felt when you open the oil filler cap or > lift the dipstick off the sealing washer. Also when air is admitted in > that way, engine revs increase slightly as the air gets drawn into the > crankcase or rocker box and then imto the inlet manifold. > > I am surprised that this mod hasn't been adopted more widely. It is a > major contribution to solving oil incontinence in our 'mature' > engines. > > On 17 March 2010 13:21, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> That type/size filter is usually used on a PCV-fitted car as an intake >> filter on a valve cover. >> One possible problem with the PCV retrofit on a Healey is the PCV valve is >> usually fitted to draw gases through the 'T' fitting on the valve cover. An >> exactly correct PCV installation would have the T fitting removed and >> something like this on the valve cover so air would be drawn in through the >> valve cover and gases--including blowby and air from inside the valve cover >> that gets pulled down the pushrod holes--to be sucked into the intake >> manifold (i.e. a truly closed system). >> >> I've considered this for my car but haven't tried it. >> >> >> bs >> >> ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 07:21:45 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:21:45 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Problems with voltage regulator In-Reply-To: <815959.507.qm@web58202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <815959.507.qm@web58202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Maurice - Your terminology is a bit vexing, but if I understand you correctly, nothing in the Voltage Regulator should cause your car to stop running if it is at idle. Your problem is elswhere - first thing to check is to replace your distributor rotor with a rotor that you know works. There are many bad rotors in healey land, and this sounds like a bad rotor. Alan On 3/17/10, Maurice Maxwell wrote: > Yesterday I backed my Healey out of the garage and drove it for about 10 min > then home again. While the engine was idling, it quit. upon examination > the armature arm on the cutout was stuck against the coil of the cutout. > Pulling the armature from the cutout gave a spark. Turning the car cutoff > to off also releases the armature. Can this be repaired or not? If it can > be repaired, what needs to be done? > > How complicated is it to change to an alternator? And is this a better > route to follow? > > Thanks in advance! > > Max > 1961 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 17 07:33:03 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 15:33:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] air filter In-Reply-To: <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BA0E81F.3050008@chello.nl> These have been used for a long time in original set ups, e.g. Alfa Romeo, BMW, Jensen Healey, Lotus, Fiat etc. No hotrodders there. Kees Oudesluijs NL Bob Spidell schreef: > These Cold Air Intake ('CAI') setups are all the rage with tuners and > hotrodders. Some production cars--like new Mustang GTs--have them > fitted as well. Donald and Geoff thought they were a good idea, as > the 100M had an early implementation (although I remember a 100M racer > who claimed straight ram pipes worked better--cold air > notwithstanding). Usually, they're claimed to give a few percent HP > increase, depending on the car. > > Would love to have a nice setup for a Big Healey. Might make a set of > headers worthwhile. > > > bs > > > > Oudesluys wrote: >> What strikes me is that in the discussions around air filters and the >> little available space to accommodate them, nobody is mentioning an >> air box with a remote air filter. I have never seen these except on >> some pictures of competition cars >> It seems to me that a fabricated and lined air box with short (ca. >> 1/2") fitted trumpets on the carbs throats and a duct/hose to a >> remote air filter (e.g. K&N ram air filter) or air filter box >> positioned in cool place would be a better option; >> a: larger filter area possible, allowing more air/oxygen and fuel in >> giving some more power >> b: cooler air thus more air/oxygen and fuel giving even more power >> c: better flow to the carbs because of the trumpets, allowing more >> air etc. >> d: substantial reduction in induction roar if the air box is lined >> with noise absorbing foam, especially if you have fitted Weber >> DCOE's / DellOrto DHLA's. >> >> On the down side however are looks, of course it looks nicer to have >> the separate K&N's or equivalent filters. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> _______________________________________________ >> >> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.791 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2752 - datum van uitgifte: 03/17/10 08:33:00 From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 17 07:34:46 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 07:34:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <40e0020d1003170629l30962143s5cb3eebc57bb3af6@mail.gmail.com> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> <40e0020d1003170629l30962143s5cb3eebc57bb3af6@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA0E886.7010206@comcast.net> BTW, if you're pulling a vacuum at idle your PCV valve is stuck open. bs Alan Bromfield wrote: > FWIW the PCV fitting as described is definitely a truly closed system. > The vacuum can definitely be felt when you open the oil filler cap or > lift the dipstick off the sealing washer. Also when air is admitted in > that way, engine revs increase slightly as the air gets drawn into the > crankcase or rocker box and then imto the inlet manifold. > > I am surprised that this mod hasn't been adopted more widely. It is a > major contribution to solving oil incontinence in our 'mature' > engines. > > On 17 March 2010 13:21, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> That type/size filter is usually used on a PCV-fitted car as an intake >> filter on a valve cover. >> One possible problem with the PCV retrofit on a Healey is the PCV valve is >> usually fitted to draw gases through the 'T' fitting on the valve cover. An >> exactly correct PCV installation would have the T fitting removed and >> something like this on the valve cover so air would be drawn in through the >> valve cover and gases--including blowby and air from inside the valve cover >> that gets pulled down the pushrod holes--to be sucked into the intake >> manifold (i.e. a truly closed system). >> >> I've considered this for my car but haven't tried it. >> >> >> bs >> >> > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 17 07:37:40 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 15:37:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BA0E934.2010201@chello.nl> May be the set up as used on old Series Landrovers can be ada(o)pted. It would keep everything in period. Kees Oudesluijs NL Bob Spidell schreef: > That type/size filter is usually used on a PCV-fitted car as an intake > filter on a valve cover. > One possible problem with the PCV retrofit on a Healey is the PCV > valve is usually fitted to draw gases through the 'T' fitting on the > valve cover. An exactly correct PCV installation would have the T > fitting removed and something like this on the valve cover so air > would be drawn in through the valve cover and gases--including blowby > and air from inside the valve cover that gets pulled down the pushrod > holes--to be sucked into the intake manifold (i.e. a truly closed > system). > > I've considered this for my car but haven't tried it. > > > bs From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 17 07:46:27 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 07:46:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <40e0020d1003170740qd627697r35a7a61c97fd6c45@mail.gmail.com> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> <40e0020d1003170629l30962143s5cb3eebc57bb3af6@mail.gmail.com> <4BA0DE67.2090608@comcast.net> <40e0020d1003170740qd627697r35a7a61c97fd6c45@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA0EB43.6000600@comcast.net> PCV valves are closed at idle (high vacuum) when the introduction of extra air would indeed mess up the mixture. They open at low vacuum/open throttle when the additional air intake is insignificant. AFAIK, PCV systems work exactly the same on EFI cars but, yes, the ECU can fine tune the mixture at all loads. bs Alan Bromfield wrote: > That makes sense to me Bob. I guess with EFI systems the intoduction > of air into the inlet manifold via the crankcase can be compensated > for with idle speed and mixture controls. The introduction of air in > that way probably dilutes the blowby gases too before burning them in > the combustion chamber. It also explains what the dinky little filter > is for that has been discussed elsewhere. Unfortunately in our simple > carburettor engines we can't introduce air in that way without > screwing up the mixture. The use of a PCV valve in the way Norman Nock > advocates allows the blowby gases to be sucked out direct into the > inlet manifold, which is a vast improvement on blowing them out of a > tube somewhere in the region of the carb inlet. > > As you say it does work. > > On 17 March 2010 13:51, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> In this case, 'closed' doesn't mean 'sealed.' It means the system is >> continuous, with an intake--the filter--and an output--the PCV valve into >> the manifold. That's how OEM PCV systems work (see: >> *http://tinyurl.com/yajrlzb )*. To truly breathe, you need an inlet vent >> (the 'V' in PCV is for 'ventilation'). Ever try pouring gas from a can >> without opening the vent hole? Pulling a significant vacuum means you're >> not circulating the gases--the intent of a PCV system. >> This setup does work well as is, however (I have it on my BJ8). >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 17 08:02:52 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 10:02:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Parts needed In-Reply-To: <4BA0E934.2010201@chello.nl> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> <4BA0E934.2010201@chello.nl> Message-ID: <002401cac5e2$eadad090$c09071b0$@net> Folks, A friend is in need of a driveshaft and gear shift lever for a BJ8. I assume that a common driveshaft is applicable for all 3000 cars. Please contact me off list if anyone has these parts for sale. Thanks. Ron From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Mar 17 08:22:13 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 07:22:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?air_filter_=26_crankcase_ventilation?= Message-ID: <20100317152213.32081.qmail@hoster902.com> I brazed up a rear K&N breather hose attachment from scrap sheet metal which can be seen in this gallery: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/dmd_air_filter_mods -- Steve Gerow BN6 From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 08:28:51 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:28:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs Message-ID: <173126441003170828o18737662l7c2be24181131830@mail.gmail.com> If I go with the BJ8 set up will there be an issue with port sizes? by that i mean, will the 2" manifolds match the intake port size or will there be a step down? I do not want to pull the head and open up the ports. If a mismatch, what will the effect be? Obviously more turbulence, but will it be enough to negatively impact induction? Thanks, -- I Erbs Portland, OR From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 08:40:55 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:40:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] air filter In-Reply-To: <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> Message-ID: <173126441003170840o677c841as5386cb61b226c760@mail.gmail.com> I did some research on this a while ago.I'll look for the emails on resources. The bottom line I got form most was a concern for air starvation on the rear carb. As in current thoughts about a tri-carb set up, It's a bout looks and a bit of improvement in performance. I think the cold air box route or the tri-carb set up just looks cool. I will not be competing in any car shows, other than people's choice show at out ;local ABFM. BTW, if you have never attended the Portland, Oregon ABFM over labor day weekend, you have missed an amazing show that includes 3 days of VERA racing on the track. On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 6:29 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > These Cold Air Intake ('CAI') setups are all the rage with tuners and > hotrodders. Some production cars--like new Mustang GTs--have them fitted as > well. Donald and Geoff thought they were a good idea, as the 100M had an > early implementation (although I remember a 100M racer who claimed straight > ram pipes worked better--cold air notwithstanding). Usually, they're > claimed to give a few percent HP increase, depending on the car. > > Would love to have a nice setup for a Big Healey. Might make a set of > headers worthwhile. > > > bs > > > > Oudesluys wrote: > >> What strikes me is that in the discussions around air filters and the >> little available space to accommodate them, nobody is mentioning an air box >> with a remote air filter. I have never seen these except on some pictures of >> competition cars >> It seems to me that a fabricated and lined air box with short (ca. 1/2") >> fitted trumpets on the carbs throats and a duct/hose to a remote air filter >> (e.g. K&N ram air filter) or air filter box positioned in cool place would >> be a better option; >> a: larger filter area possible, allowing more air/oxygen and fuel in >> giving some more power >> b: cooler air thus more air/oxygen and fuel giving even more power >> c: better flow to the carbs because of the trumpets, allowing more air >> etc. >> d: substantial reduction in induction roar if the air box is lined with >> noise absorbing foam, especially if you have fitted Weber DCOE's / DellOrto >> DHLA's. >> >> On the down side however are looks, of course it looks nicer to have the >> separate K&N's or equivalent filters. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From yeastd at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 17 08:45:05 2010 From: yeastd at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Yeast) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:45:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: <119443.98920.qm@web82708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Dennis Yeast email: yeastd at sbcglobal.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Mar 17 08:51:34 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:51:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs In-Reply-To: <173126441003170828o18737662l7c2be24181131830@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003170828o18737662l7c2be24181131830@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <90D3EE60-EA6E-42F0-95D4-E60B7AA29A13@cox.net> Bolt 'em on and go! No worries about the port sizes, they're all the same. On Mar 17, 2010, at 8:28 AM, I Erbs wrote: > If I go with the BJ8 set up will there be an issue with port sizes? > by that > i mean, will the 2" manifolds match the intake port size or will > there be a > step down? I do not want to pull the head and open up the ports. If a > mismatch, what will the effect be? Obviously more turbulence, but > will it be > enough to negatively impact induction? > > Thanks, > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 17 08:57:09 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:57:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <4BA07FEE.5030409@chello.nl> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net><4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> <08C80F3E7A8A4E96A94A8A9B6F1273D0@Dell> <4BA01B06.1080709@earthlink.net> <837322.66642.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4BA07FEE.5030409@chello.nl> Message-ID: <169314.46698.qm@web50007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Kees, Thanks for the feed back. I like the look but didn't know how effective it was. Do you think it would be more effective if a 90 degree elbow was added and it was up so that the oil would drip back down the pipe into the valve cover? I appreciate the insight. Cheers, Carlos Cruz ________________________________ From: Oudesluys To: Carlos Cruz Cc: Bob Haskell ; AlanB ; Healeys List Sent: Wed, March 17, 2010 2:08:30 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filter I have this fitted to my car. It keeps dirt from entering the crankcase but it gets soked in engine oil and eventually drips oil. Kees Oudesluijs NL Carlos Cruz schreef: > All, > > Tom's Import Toys (http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1) offers a nice looking breather option you might want t consider for only $10. No financial interest. > > Cheers, > Carlos Cruz > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Bob Haskell > To: AlanB > Cc: Healeys List > Sent: Tue, March 16, 2010 6:57:58 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filter > > Alan, > > I like the idea of using a PCV valve. Not sure how to fit one to the rear tri-carb manifold. Anyone do it? > > The original Coopers filters fitted to the tri-carb are roughly 5" in diameter for about 20 square inches. If I got the correct equation (new word for the day: frustum of cone) from of my copy of Machinery Handbook, the K&N 59-9320 filter has an area of around 25 square inches. Ought to be adequate, but I don't have a flow bench to confirm. > > The dual carb setups have a larger air filters, so I would think/agree that a filter larger than the 59-9320 would be required. > > Cheers, > > Bob > > AlanB wrote: > >> Team. >> I have been in touch with K&N and they identify Part number 56-9247 as the >> most appropriate for a 3000 with two carbs. >> http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=56-9247 >> It is a classic pancake filter with a diameter of 6" and a depth of 2". A >> bit bigger than the 59-9320 but then we have almost double the displacement >> of an MGB. The backing plates are blank and have to be opened up to match >> the HD6 or 8 carbs. That gives the opportunity to offset the rear one lower >> to clear the shroud. >> >> As for the breather hole, my vote is don't bother. Fit a PCV valve as >> detailed in Norman's Tech Talk. A superb and discrete mod that completely >> eliminates the oil leaks caused by crankcase pressure. I fitted the air >> filters and PCV to my BJ8 and will be doing the same again to my modified >> BN4 which will soon be fitted with a slightly breathed on 3000 engine. DWR >> cam, gas flowed head, HD8's. >> Read about the PCV mod at >> http://www.nfahc.co.uk/PCV/ >> _____________________________________________ >> (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) >> (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 09:11:17 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:11:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] air filter In-Reply-To: <173126441003170840o677c841as5386cb61b226c760@mail.gmail.com> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> <173126441003170840o677c841as5386cb61b226c760@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <173126441003170911u422dcedci8e752d9e1f28a9c3@mail.gmail.com> here are the salient sections culled from my emails. cheers Something along these lines? ;) http://www.britishv8.org/Other/RayBencar.htm Okay, so it's not using SUs ... There's a member of the British Car Forum who races who has a cold air box setup for a tri-carb. Try posting your question there ( http://www.britishcarforum.com) No measured drawings but here are the particulars. The seams are welded. Overall length is 14 and is 3x3 (a snug fit on the inside of the 4 inch diameter duct - used the pi x r squared formula for the inside circumference of the duct.) The arc at the back is 3 inches. Also, had to have welded in a pipe at the rear for the vent-to-crankcase hose. Finally added a screw hole in the bottom-back to use as a drain for collected oil from the vent. This turns out to not really be needed as the cleaning out can be done when the piece is off. The separator vane in the middle is 1/16 thick and runs from the front of the box and then curves inward to meet the inside piece of the box just a bit behind the front carb intake. This separates the airflow for the two carbs and also provides more linear air flow to each. And BTW I had to cut out the shroud support there as it interfered with the duct. I fabricated another support which had about 1.25 inch offset toward the inside in order to clear the duct. Look at the pic. Try this web site. He makes them and they are very good. He has three Healeys and has done restoration on over 60 Healeys including the paint and body on two of mine. He has lots of stainless re=pro parts also. Jim Frakes http://www.wickerizedhealey.com/manparts.htm i would recommend exploring racing intake tubes vs cold air box if the objective is to improve air flow into the manifolds. cold air box on the 100M was to supply COLD air, not to serve as a ram air induction device. in fact, the cold air box as conformed can cause slight vortex disturbances interfering air supply to the rear intake. i bought a period cold air box on EBAY a few years back, and in the course of its life the back end had been hacksawed off. i asked around and was advised by an old salt that racers used to do this to ensure that airflow to the front and rear manifolds was even, and that the intended purpose of just supplying good cold air was fulfilled You can always use Stub Stacks which go inside the air cleaner to increase the airflow, kind of like using ram pipes with the stock filter. They are available at http://www.aptfast.com You can always use Stub Stacks which go inside the air cleaner to increase the airflow, kind of like using ram pipes with the stock filter. They are available at http://www.aptfast.com http://www.englishparts.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=cold%20air%20box -- I Erbs Portland, OR From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed Mar 17 09:37:07 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:37:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] which carb set up? In-Reply-To: References: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I would lean towards the 2" carbs for the simple reason of maintenance. The square inches of choke is a bit of a red herring with your engine. While the 2" carbs will give you more CFM in airflow, you won't need it with your engine unless your running at very high RPM. You can do some math to figure this out by calculating your displacement per minute at max rpm and comparing that to the efficiency CFM of the SU's. With respect to "straight shot" to the inlet valves, you don't really get a "ramming" effect unless you have individual runners such as Webbers so, I would consider this a non-issue. With SU's you don't have to worry about loss of vacumn with larger chokes (and related torque) at lower RPM because they are variable choke carbs. With fixed Choke Carbs (Webers, Holley and most other carbs), larger chokes become an issue (especially with a modified Camshaft). The reason being is that when you open the butterflies suddenly, the vacuum drops suddenly which affects the fuel drawn through the venturi's (this causes hesitation upon acceleration). This is why fixed choke carbs have to have an accelerator plunger that gives a shot of fuel when the butterflies are opened....they can't rely on vacuum to draw the fuel. SU's don't have this issue. It is this changing of vacuum and trying to compensate for it that poses the problem that people have with webers. However, when properly tuned Webers are great carbs and will be more responsive than SU's. All this to say....go with the 2" Webers. Sorry for the long explanation...got carried away. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Lemon Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 4:18 PM To: I Erbs; healey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] which carb set up? Area = pi *r * r (pi times radius squared) 1" x 1" (radius squared) x 3.14 (pi) x 2 (carbs) = 6.28" sq. in. for double 2" carbs .75" X 75" x 3.14 x 3 = 5.30" sq. in. for triple 1,5" carbs This is of course the theoritical "maximum pipe" for airflow, actual will also be affected by the throttle plate and such, but theortically the double 2 inchers can flow almost 20% more air. Of course the triples give you a straighter shot to the ports, I suppose there is a reason older high performance engines like Ferrari and such often had an intake carb barrel for each intake port. But it doesn't look like you lose anything, and may actually gain, with the double carb set up. Maybe some of the racer boys can pop in with some real world experience. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 17 09:41:00 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 17:41:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filter In-Reply-To: <169314.46698.qm@web50007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4B9D4383.3080900@earthlink.net><4B479D08-B7B5-4C8C-80E5-8F99286BFDFE@mac.com> <4B9EFCE3.4000307@earthlink.net> <08C80F3E7A8A4E96A94A8A9B6F1273D0@Dell> <4BA01B06.1080709@earthlink.net> <837322.66642.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4BA07FEE.5030409@chello.nl> <169314.46698.qm@web50007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BA1061C.7030600@chello.nl> It may help a bit but the filter will soak up oil and drip eventually. Mine is fitted upright but still drips. Cheers, Kees Carlos Cruz schreef: > Kees, > > Thanks for the feed back. I like the look but didn't know how > effective it was. Do you think it would be more effective if a 90 > degree elbow was added and it was up so that the oil would drip back > down the pipe into the valve cover? I appreciate the insight. > > Cheers, > Carlos Cruz From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 17 09:45:44 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:45:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Hagerty's Mag Message-ID: <76993.75861.qm@web50007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi LIsters, I'm browsing through my Hagerty's Mortoring Lifestyle magazine Spring 2010 issue. There's a nice multi-page spread article on Spring detailing car care. If features professional detailer Tim McNair and several beautiful pictures of a Healey Blue 100. The car is gorgeous. There is also a Healey Blue BJ7, TR4A and MG TC in the background of some of the pics. Just curious if the Healeys belong to anyone on the list? Cheers, Carlos Cruz From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 17 10:05:52 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 18:05:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] air filter In-Reply-To: <173126441003170911u422dcedci8e752d9e1f28a9c3@mail.gmail.com> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> <173126441003170840o677c841as5386cb61b226c760@mail.gmail.com> <173126441003170911u422dcedci8e752d9e1f28a9c3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA10BF0.5040205@chello.nl> Sorry, US distaste AFAIAC for the pictures. As for Jim Frakes comments about the wickerizing this is about what I mean Cheers, Kees I Erbs schreef: > here are the salient sections culled from my emails. > > cheers > > Something along these lines? ;) > http://www.britishv8.org/Other/RayBencar.htm > > Okay, so it's not using SUs ... From warthodson at aol.com Wed Mar 17 10:37:18 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:37:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs In-Reply-To: <173126441003170828o18737662l7c2be24181131830@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003170828o18737662l7c2be24181131830@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CC940FA028BDC8-49E0-1355@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> If possible, make sure you get all the throttle & choke linkage & the air cleaners. I think you said you are getting the intake manifold with the carbs. Do you have a cam equal to the BJ8 cam? The angled chassis support that goes from the frame near the front suspension to the pedal box will need to be modified to clear the HD8 air cleaners. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: I Erbs To: healey help Sent: Wed, Mar 17, 2010 10:28 am Subject: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs If I go with the BJ8 set up will there be an issue with port sizes? by that mean, will the 2" manifolds match the intake port size or will there be a tep down? I do not want to pull the head and open up the ports. If a ismatch, what will the effect be? Obviously more turbulence, but will it be nough to negatively impact induction? Thanks, -- Erbs ortland, OR ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From warthodson at aol.com Wed Mar 17 10:59:39 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:59:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs In-Reply-To: <8CC940FA028BDC8-49E0-1355@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> References: <173126441003170828o18737662l7c2be24181131830@mail.gmail.com> <8CC940FA028BDC8-49E0-1355@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CC9412BF349BA0-5440-2CA1@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Correction. The support needs to be modified to clear the bottom of the carb, not the air cleaner. Also, get the heat shield. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: warthodson at aol.com To: eyera3 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Mar 17, 2010 12:37 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs If possible, make sure you get all the throttle & choke linkage & the air leaners. I think you said you are getting the intake manifold with the carbs. o you have a cam equal to the BJ8 cam? he angled chassis support that goes from the frame near the front suspension o the pedal box will need to be modified to clear the HD8 air cleaners. ary Hodson -----Original Message----- rom: I Erbs o: healey help ent: Wed, Mar 17, 2010 10:28 am ubject: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs f I go with the BJ8 set up will there be an issue with port sizes? by that mean, will the 2" manifolds match the intake port size or will there be a ep down? I do not want to pull the head and open up the ports. If a smatch, what will the effect be? Obviously more turbulence, but will it be ough to negatively impact induction? hanks, - Erbs rtland, OR _____________________________________________ aleys at autox.team.net nate: http://www.team.net/donate.html ggested annual donation $12.75 chive: http://www.team.net/archive rums: http://www.team.net/forums subscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 11:24:30 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:24:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs In-Reply-To: <8CC940FA028BDC8-49E0-1355@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> References: <173126441003170828o18737662l7c2be24181131830@mail.gmail.com> <8CC940FA028BDC8-49E0-1355@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <173126441003171124qf8437cdiac92f44a492f4805@mail.gmail.com> yes I have a hotter than stock cam. Thanks, i was concerned about the air filter situation. Yes all throttle linkage is available for both the tri-carb and HD8 set ups On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 10:37 AM, wrote: > If possible, make sure you get all the throttle & choke linkage & the air > cleaners. I think you said you are getting the intake manifold with the > carbs. Do you have a cam equal to the BJ8 cam? > The angled chassis support that goes from the frame near the front > suspension to the pedal box will need to be modified to clear the HD8 air > cleaners. > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: I Erbs > To: healey help > Sent: Wed, Mar 17, 2010 10:28 am > Subject: [Healeys] follow up question about carbs > > If I go with the BJ8 set up will there be an issue with port sizes? by that > i mean, will the 2" manifolds match the intake port size or will there be a > step down? I do not want to pull the head and open up the ports. If a > mismatch, what will the effect be? Obviously more turbulence, but will it be > enough to negatively impact induction? > > Thanks, > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 11:26:23 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:26:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] air filter In-Reply-To: <4BA10BF0.5040205@chello.nl> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> <173126441003170840o677c841as5386cb61b226c760@mail.gmail.com> <173126441003170911u422dcedci8e752d9e1f28a9c3@mail.gmail.com> <4BA10BF0.5040205@chello.nl> Message-ID: <173126441003171126s500ded2es1c36d9bf07310868@mail.gmail.com> *AFAIAC* - 1 definition - 1) [Acronym] for "As Far As I Am Concerned".???? was that what you meant? On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 10:05 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Sorry, US distaste AFAIAC for the pictures. As for Jim Frakes comments > about the wickerizing this is about what I mean > Cheers, > Kees > I Erbs schreef: > >> here are the salient sections culled from my emails. >> >> >> cheers >> >> Something along these lines? ;) >> http://www.britishv8.org/Other/RayBencar.htm >> >> Okay, so it's not using SUs ... >> >> >> >> > > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 17 11:56:54 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:56:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] which carb set up? In-Reply-To: References: <173126441003161457s56b191c0v8d14f7f5dc6a3082@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA125F6.30900@chello.nl> 48mm Webers are far to big I think. Use 40mm or max. 45mm Webers / DellOrto's with chokes around 32mm resp. 36 and proper jetting to be set up on a rolling road. If only used cruising on the road get 40mm Webers / DellOrto's with 28mm chokes to avoid drivebility issues. There is a great book for these carbs: How to build & power tune Weber & DellOrto DCOE & DHLA carburettors by Dess Hammill. Kees Oudesluijs PG schreef: > I would lean towards the 2" carbs for the simple reason of maintenance. > > The square inches of choke is a bit of a red herring with your engine. > While the 2" carbs will give you more CFM in airflow, you won't need it with > your engine unless your running at very high RPM. You can do some math to > figure this out by calculating your displacement per minute at max rpm and > comparing that to the efficiency CFM of the SU's. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 17 11:58:48 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:58:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] air filter In-Reply-To: <173126441003171126s500ded2es1c36d9bf07310868@mail.gmail.com> References: <4b9ec63e.12dbf10a.768a.0311@mx.google.com> <006701cac4a4$a4614840$ed23d8c0$@org> <4BA07CF0.2030807@chello.nl> <4BA0D936.60707@comcast.net> <173126441003170840o677c841as5386cb61b226c760@mail.gmail.com> <173126441003170911u422dcedci8e752d9e1f28a9c3@mail.gmail.com> <4BA10BF0.5040205@chello.nl> <173126441003171126s500ded2es1c36d9bf07310868@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA12668.2090508@chello.nl> Yes, Kees I Erbs schreef: > /AFAIAC/ - 1 definition - 1) [Acronym] for "As Far As I Am Concerned".???? > was that what you meant? > > On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 10:05 AM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > Sorry, US distaste AFAIAC for the pictures. As for Jim Frakes > comments about the wickerizing this is about what I mean > Cheers, > Kees From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Wed Mar 17 12:09:47 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 08:09:47 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Parts needed In-Reply-To: <002401cac5e2$eadad090$c09071b0$@net> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> <4BA0E934.2010201@chello.nl> <002401cac5e2$eadad090$c09071b0$@net> Message-ID: <137229b1003171209u3e3cfa15yb8e910e7bb08eb28@mail.gmail.com> Hi Ron, I have both parts for sale. The BJ8 Gear lever 22B195 (be sure to get the correct one) is $US88 and a driveshaft, with good U joints is $US75. I'm presently i n New Zealand but will be back in Canada at the end of the month after which time I could figure out the shipping cost for you if you would forward the state to which they will be sent. Michael Salter (Still in New Zealand and running out of sunscreen!!! ) On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 4:02 AM, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > A friend is in need of a driveshaft and gear shift lever for a BJ8. > I assume that a common driveshaft is applicable for all 3000 cars. > > Please contact me off list if anyone has these parts for sale. > > Thanks. > Ron From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Wed Mar 17 12:29:12 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 08:29:12 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> References: <4BA08E1D.902@chello.nl> <4BA0D743.3000508@comcast.net> Message-ID: <137229b1003171229t3b142f9auf3bdd871d6c988a0@mail.gmail.com> Hi Bob, By installing an air intake filter on the valve cover you will be missing out on one great advantage of a PCV system for a Healey engine. A PCV system partially evacuates the crankcase and, in so doing, eliminates the flow of oil laden air through the rear main seal. I had a hidden PCV system on my BJ8 many years ago and it completely stopped a substantial rear main seal leak that was caused by wear on the crankshaft scroll surface. On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 2:21 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > That type/size filter is usually used on a PCV-fitted car as an intake > filter on a valve cover. > One possible problem with the PCV retrofit on a Healey is the PCV valve is > usually fitted to draw gases through the 'T' fitting on the valve cover. An > exactly correct PCV installation would have the T fitting removed and > something like this on the valve cover so air would be drawn in through the > valve cover and gases--including blowby and air from inside the valve cover > that gets pulled down the pushrod holes--to be sucked into the intake > manifold (i.e. a truly closed system). > > I've considered this for my car but haven't tried it. > > > bs > > > > > Oudesluys wrote: > >> I have this fitted to my car. It keeps dirt from entering the crankcase >> but it gets soked in engine oil and eventually drips oil. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> Carlos Cruz schreef: >> All, >> >> Tom's Import Toys ( >> http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1) offers a nice >> looking breather option you might want t consider for only $10. No >> financial interest. >> >> Cheers, >> Carlos Cruz >> _______________________________________________ >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com From bn1 at pacbell.net Wed Mar 17 12:29:15 2010 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:29:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Message-ID: <4BA12D8B.80208@pacbell.net> Sent to our club, Austin-Healey Association of Southern California. Bill Barnett '53 Red Car Subject: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:32:24 +0000 Roy Fielden is looking for a Blue over White or Silver Healey to be used in a photo shoot for the Oprah Show. It will take place *this Thursday *in Paris, CA . Anyone who is interested contact him at 818-822-4049. They will flat bed the car to the site or pay U to drive it out...feed you etc on site. From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Wed Mar 17 12:40:41 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:40:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet for early BJ8 phase 1 Message-ID: Can anyone tell me if I can use carpet marked " LATE BJ8" on the package be used in a phase 1? I understand there is something different behind the seat? Will it be noticable as not stock? Thanks Rich Kahn _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 From maxandreb1 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 17 13:27:14 2010 From: maxandreb1 at yahoo.com (Maurice Maxwell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:27:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Problems with voltage regulator In-Reply-To: References: <815959.507.qm@web58202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <892998.93692.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Alan the voltage output dropped to less than 7 volts because the armature was stuck against the cutout coil in the voltage regulator. My terminology comes from the service manual . The rotor is fine and the ignition is set correctly (50 BTDC-static set). The problem is in the voltage regulator because when the armature is pulled from the coil in the regulator the voltage output returns to above 12 volts. The armature vibrates in the regulator to produce an average pulsating DC voltage of between ~12 and ~15 volts. If it sticks against the cutoff coil then the voltage dro[ps to the point that there is not enough voltage to fire the plugs. Any how thanks for the tip because I did check out the rotor. ________________________________ From: Alan Seigrist To: Maurice Maxwell ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, March 17, 2010 10:21:45 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with voltage regulator Maurice - Your terminology is a bit vexing, but if I understand you correctly, nothing in the Voltage Regulator should cause your car to stop running if it is at idle. Your problem is elswhere - first thing to check is to replace your distributor rotor with a rotor that you know works. There are many bad rotors in healey land, and this sounds like a bad rotor. Alan On 3/17/10, Maurice Maxwell wrote: > Yesterday I backed my Healey out of the garage and drove it for about 10 min > then home again. While the engine was idling, it quit. upon examination > the armature arm on the cutout was stuck against the coil of the cutout. > Pulling the armature from the cutout gave a spark. Turning the car cutoff > to off also releases the armature. Can this be repaired or not? If it can > be repaired, what needs to be done? > > How complicated is it to change to an alternator? And is this a better > route to follow? > > Thanks in advance! > > Max > 1961 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 17 14:00:07 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 21:00:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <137229b1003171229t3b142f9auf3bdd871d6c988a0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <1190992175.15372661268859607726.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hi Michael, If you mean the non-vented approach pulls more vacuum on the crankcase I agree. But, you're pulling unfiltered air in through other gaps (like around the crankcase seal). The 'sealed' PCV system works good on our cars, but it's not a PCV 'system' per se. A proper PCV system circulates filtered air through the crankcase, mixes it with blowby and sends it back through the intake manifold. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: "Healey" Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 12:29:12 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] crank case ventilation Hi Bob, By installing an air intake filter on the valve cover you will be missing out on one great advantage of a PCV system for a Healey engine. A PCV system partially evacuates the crankcase and, in so doing, eliminates the flow of oil laden air through the rear main seal. I had a hidden PCV system on my BJ8 many years ago and it completely stopped a substantial rear main seal leak that was caused by wear on the crankshaft scroll surface. On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 2:21 AM, Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net > wrote: That type/size filter is usually used on a PCV-fitted car as an intake filter on a valve cover. One possible problem with the PCV retrofit on a Healey is the PCV valve is usually fitted to draw gases through the 'T' fitting on the valve cover. An exactly correct PCV installation would have the T fitting removed and something like this on the valve cover so air would be drawn in through the valve cover and gases--including blowby and air from inside the valve cover that gets pulled down the pushrod holes--to be sucked into the intake manifold (i.e. a truly closed system). I've considered this for my car but haven't tried it. bs From insptwo at msn.com Wed Mar 17 14:06:55 2010 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 17:06:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <8CC93EB321AFC06-55F0-A6F0@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28>, , <8CC93EB321AFC06-55F0-A6F0@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: That's almost as bad as the one "Did you hear about the cannibal who passed his brother in the woods?) Bill BJ7 > >From the same radio show: > > Q. Why don't cannibals eat divorcees? > A. Because they are bitter. > > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Alan Seigrist > To: pennell at cox.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Mar 16, 2010 7:49 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny > > > It's coops not coupes. And Concours not concourse. > Anyone else have a joke that needs deconstruction? > > On 3/17/10, pennell at cox.net wrote: > Q: Why do chicken coupes have 2 doors? > > A: If they had 4 doors they would be chicken sedans. From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Wed Mar 17 14:16:25 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 10:16:25 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet for early BJ8 phase 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <137229b1003171416q4c194ffesfaf0835df3e93bab@mail.gmail.com> Hi Rich, The issue will be as you say behind the seats. On the later BJ8 there is a box in that area to house the forward end of the radius arms. If you install the later carpet set you will have to eliminate the carpet that covers this box. It should not bee too difficult to do and you should have plenty of material. You can get very good tape to join carpet which when used correctly makes the joints almost invisible. On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 8:40 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > Can anyone tell me if I can use carpet marked " LATE BJ8" on the package be > used in a phase 1? I understand there is something different behind the > seat? > Will it be noticable as not stock? > Thanks > Rich Kahn From mslechta at chartermi.net Wed Mar 17 14:19:22 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 16:19:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot In-Reply-To: <4BA12D8B.80208@pacbell.net> References: <4BA12D8B.80208@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <27EA8903D7CC44A5A0A0BB2EAB49ADA9@MikesLaptop> Bill, I've got a '53 MG TD & would love to have an all expense paid trip to Paris, CA especially at this time of the year, since I live in WI. Doubt if I could make it by Thurs. tho. Have to celebrate my heritage tonite. Mad Mike (as in WI) ----- Original Message ----- From: Mr. Bill To: Healey Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 2:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Sent to our club, Austin-Healey Association of Southern California. Bill Barnett '53 Red Car Subject: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:32:24 +0000 Roy Fielden is looking for a Blue over White or Silver Healey to be used in a photo shoot for the Oprah Show. It will take place *this Thursday *in Paris, CA . Anyone who is interested contact him at 818-822-4049. They will flat bed the car to the site or pay U to drive it out...feed you etc on site. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From mslechta at chartermi.net Wed Mar 17 14:23:36 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 16:23:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot - Correction Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Slechta To: Mr. Bill ; Healey Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Bill, I've got a Red '53 MG TD & would love to have an all expense paid trip to Paris, CA especially at this time of the year, since I live in WI. Doubt if I could make it by Thurs. tho. Have to celebrate my heritage tonite. Mad Mike (as in WI) ----- Original Message ----- From: Mr. Bill To: Healey Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 2:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Sent to our club, Austin-Healey Association of Southern California. Bill Barnett '53 Red Car Subject: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:32:24 +0000 Roy Fielden is looking for a Blue over White or Silver Healey to be used in a photo shoot for the Oprah Show. It will take place *this Thursday *in Paris, CA . Anyone who is interested contact him at 818-822-4049. They will flat bed the car to the site or pay U to drive it out...feed you etc on site. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Mar 17 15:05:37 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 18:05:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot In-Reply-To: <4BA12D8B.80208@pacbell.net> References: <4BA12D8B.80208@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <8CC94351BA4E841-59EC-7308@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> Interesting Bill. In days gone by I have had our BN2 used by several film crews for video and still photography. I hope that Oprah's group is willing to pay for the rental of the vehicle/owners time, etc. A very nice film crew from Japan paid $400 a day on a three day shoot and a clothing designer paid about the same for a couple days. Of course there has been the free ones, a car mag shot photos of the car at our house. I think we fed them! And being spending the day with a crew on the local TV version of a car magazine. Never the less being on Oprah should qualify for an engine rebuild plus the food..... Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Mr. Bill To: Healey Sent: Wed, Mar 17, 2010 9:29 am Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Sent to our club, Austin-Healey Association of Southern California. Bill Barnett '53 Red Car Subject: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:32:24 +0000 Roy Fielden is looking for a Blue over White or Silver Healey to be used in a photo shoot for the Oprah Show. It will take place *this Thursday *in Paris, CA . Anyone who is interested contact him at 818-822-4049. They will flat bed the car to the site or pay U to drive it out...feed you etc on site. From shop at justbrits.com Wed Mar 17 17:56:36 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:56:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot In-Reply-To: <8CC94351BA4E841-59EC-7308@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> References: <4BA12D8B.80208@pacbell.net> <8CC94351BA4E841-59EC-7308@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BA17A44.90501@justbrits.com> << Never the less being on Oprah should qualify for an engine rebuild plus the food..... >> Nah Perry, at LEAST a full resto by Tanner !!!!! LOL !!! Anon From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 18:18:44 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 09:18:44 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Problems with voltage regulator In-Reply-To: References: <815959.507.qm@web58202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <892998.93692.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Maurice - I am confused here, the VR only controls the charging circuit, not the car's entire electrical system. If the cutouts are engaged your car voltage should still be 12~13 V from the battery, only the Dynamo circuit will be shut off. If the VR was infact overriding the battery's 12V and imposing 7V on your car's electrical system, your VR would literally blow up, catch fire and melt. I suggest you have a loose connection somewhere in your ignition/charging circuit, or possibly a bad ground. I'd unscrew and rescrew / unnattach and reattach any brown, white or purple wire between the ignition switch to the coil to the fusebox to the VR. Also pull each fuse, clean and replace. Finally inscrew/ unbolt and rebolt the two earthing straps to your engine. I would also investigate your ignition switch. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From mark at bradakis.com Wed Mar 17 18:57:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:57:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny In-Reply-To: References: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28>, , <8CC93EB321AFC06-55F0-A6F0@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BA1888C.2090805@bradakis.com> Cannibal kid 1 at lunch: Mom sure makes good soup. Cannibal kid 2: Yep, but I'm sure going to miss her. ===== Cannibal kid at dinner: Mom, I hate daddy's guts! Mom: Be quiet and eat that liver. ===== Hey, how did I get suckered into this? mjb. From maxandreb1 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 17 19:15:59 2010 From: maxandreb1 at yahoo.com (Maurice Maxwell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:15:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Problems with voltage regulator In-Reply-To: References: <815959.507.qm@web58202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <892998.93692.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <25540.6410.qm@web58206.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Alan, I will try your suggestion tomorrow and I hope that that works. When I released the armature from the cutoff coil the car performed normally and the voltage meter in the car read more than 13 volts and the current was flowing in the correct direction. The coil did become very hot and there was a spark when the armature was pulled from the cutoff coil. Thank you for your patience and knowledge. Max 1961 BT7 ________________________________ From: Alan Seigrist To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, March 17, 2010 9:18:44 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with voltage regulator Maurice - I am confused here, the VR only controls the charging circuit, not the car's entire electrical system. If the cutouts are engaged your car voltage should still be 12~13 V from the battery, only the Dynamo circuit will be shut off. If the VR was infact overriding the battery's 12V and imposing 7V on your car's electrical system, your VR would literally blow up, catch fire and melt. I suggest you have a loose connection somewhere in your ignition/charging circuit, or possibly a bad ground. I'd unscrew and rescrew / unnattach and reattach any brown, white or purple wire between the ignition switch to the coil to the fusebox to the VR. Also pull each fuse, clean and replace. Finally inscrew/ unbolt and rebolt the two earthing straps to your engine. I would also investigate your ignition switch. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/maxandreb1 at yahoo.com From mkgoodman at att.net Wed Mar 17 20:15:22 2010 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 23:15:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 PCV Hidden System Message-ID: <000001cac649$40b13cf0$c213b6d0$@net> Dear Michael, I am very interested in the construction details of your PCV Hidden System and how you hid it. If you have the opportunity, could you please send me more details and if possible a sketch or image to "outline" what was done? That would very much be appreciated. I hope that you are enjoying NZ. I have been there a few times and really enjoyed it. Mark Goodman 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From ampole at hotmail.com Wed Mar 17 20:31:14 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 03:31:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 PCV Hidden System In-Reply-To: <000001cac649$40b13cf0$c213b6d0$@net> References: <000001cac649$40b13cf0$c213b6d0$@net> Message-ID: I would also be very interested as well please Michael, cheers Andy > > > > I am very interested in the construction details of your PCV Hidden System > and how you hid it. If you have the opportunity, could you please send me > more details and if possible a sketch or image to "outline" what was done? > That would very much be appreciated. I hope that you are enjoying NZ. I > have been there a few times and really enjoyed it. _________________________________________________________________ Tell us your greatest, weirdest and funniest Hotmail stories http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Mar 17 20:45:01 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 23:45:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 PCV Hidden System In-Reply-To: References: <000001cac649$40b13cf0$c213b6d0$@net> Message-ID: <01d101cac64d$63e0d1a0$2ba274e0$@net> If you give it to me, I will post it. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andy pole Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 11:31 PM To: mkgoodman at att.net; msalter at precisionsportscar.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 PCV Hidden System I would also be very interested as well please Michael, cheers Andy > > > > I am very interested in the construction details of your PCV Hidden System > and how you hid it. If you have the opportunity, could you please send me > more details and if possible a sketch or image to "outline" what was done? > That would very much be appreciated. I hope that you are enjoying NZ. I > have been there a few times and really enjoyed it. From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 17 21:00:11 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 21:00:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <4BA1888C.2090805@bradakis.com> References: <20100316204511.LYD7U.1057339.imail@eastrmwml28>, , <8CC93EB321AFC06-55F0-A6F0@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> <4BA1888C.2090805@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <163606.487.qm@web50002.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mark... Mark... Mark... The first step is admitting you have a problem. Then put the bottle down. Don't make us suggest a List-NoMoCannibalJokes list command. :-) ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, March 17, 2010 8:57:32 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny Cannibal kid 1 at lunch: Mom sure makes good soup. Cannibal kid 2: Yep, but I'm sure going to miss her. ===== Cannibal kid at dinner: Mom, I hate daddy's guts! Mom: Be quiet and eat that liver. ===== Hey, how did I get suckered into this? mjb. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 21:01:50 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 21:01:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: <1190992175.15372661268859607726.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <137229b1003171229t3b142f9auf3bdd871d6c988a0@mail.gmail.com> <1190992175.15372661268859607726.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Actually modern cars do have completely sealed systems with no fresh air introduced into the system. On the cars I service there may or may not be a valve, but in either case there are two hoses from the crankcase. A small hose going to manifold vacuum, and a larger hose going to the inlet upstream of the throttle plate. the dipstick has an o-ring to seal it, and the oil cap is sealed. At idle, the small vac hose pulls a small vacuum in the crankcase. Not enough vacuum is pulled to draw air in past the crank/cam seals. At high load, the blow by is sucked out the large hose. Simple and works great. How it would adapt to a LBC I am not sure. Rick On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 2:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Hi Michael, > > If you mean the non-vented approach pulls more vacuum on the crankcase I > agree. But, you're pulling unfiltered air in through other gaps (like around > the crankcase seal). > > The 'sealed' PCV system works good on our cars, but it's not a PCV 'system' > per se. A proper PCV system circulates filtered air through the crankcase, > mixes it with blowby and sends it back through the intake manifold. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 17 21:41:17 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 21:41:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] crank case ventilation In-Reply-To: References: <137229b1003171229t3b142f9auf3bdd871d6c988a0@mail.gmail.com> <1190992175.15372661268859607726.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BA1AEED.8050705@comcast.net> Wouldn't an 'inlet upstream of the throttle plate' supply fresh, filtered air? Something like this: http://beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/stock_pcv.jpg bs Richard Ewald wrote: > Actually modern cars do have completely sealed systems with no fresh > air introduced into the system. > On the cars I service there may or may not be a valve, but in either > case there are two hoses from the crankcase. A small hose going to > manifold vacuum, and a larger hose going to the inlet upstream of the > throttle plate. > the dipstick has an o-ring to seal it, and the oil cap is sealed. > At idle, the small vac hose pulls a small vacuum in the crankcase. > Not enough vacuum is pulled to draw air in past the crank/cam seals. > At high load, the blow by is sucked out the large hose. > Simple and works great. How it would adapt to a LBC I am not sure. > Rick > > On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 2:00 PM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > Hi Michael, > > If you mean the non-vented approach pulls more vacuum on the > crankcase I agree. But, you're pulling unfiltered air in through > other gaps (like around the crankcase seal). > > The 'sealed' PCV system works good on our cars, but it's not a PCV > 'system' per se. A proper PCV system circulates filtered air > through the crankcase, mixes it with blowby and sends it back > through the intake manifold. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Thu Mar 18 02:30:46 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 18 Mar 2010 10:30:46 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?BN4_horn_button?= Message-ID: A friend of mine (who's not on the list) has dissambled his horn button (early BN4) and cannot manage to get it together again. Can somebody please give me a hint where I can find instructions? I know there are plenty of resources on the internet, but can't find them at the moment. Thanks. Eric From gaagten at hetnet.nl Thu Mar 18 03:53:17 2010 From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 11:53:17 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Engine color Message-ID: <75C2DD538B52403CBF67BC7E7F0BF566@Laptop> Dear Forum, A friend of mine is restoring his BN1 1953. He would like to know which original color he should use, the color number and where to get it. Thanks for yr reply. Regards, Ge Aagten The Netherlands From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Mar 18 05:28:22 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 05:28:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN4 horn button In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <481358.51369.qm@web32901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Try http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/trafficator.html ________________________________ From: lists To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, March 18, 2010 5:30:46 AM Subject: [Healeys] BN4 horn button A friend of mine (who's not on the list) has dissambled his horn button (early BN4) and cannot manage to get it together again. Can somebody please give me a hint where I can find instructions? I know there are plenty of resources on the internet, but can't find them at the moment. Thanks. Eric _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From cjerryadams at yahoo.com Thu Mar 18 06:46:14 2010 From: cjerryadams at yahoo.com (jerry adams) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 06:46:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN4 horn button In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <382503.31170.qm@web51506.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Try John Sims web site www.healey6.com . He should have at least two well docummented articles, photos and comments, about Horn button cleaning and repair. One was done by Tracy Drummond more than several years ago and I can't remember the the other person who also did one but it was also very well done. Jerry BN2 ________________________________ From: lists To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, March 18, 2010 4:30:46 AM Subject: [Healeys] BN4 horn button A friend of mine (who's not on the list) has dissambled his horn button (early BN4) and cannot manage to get it together again. Can somebody please give me a hint where I can find instructions? I know there are plenty of resources on the internet, but can't find them at the moment. Thanks. Eric _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cjerryadams at yahoo.com From logical2 at hotmail.com Thu Mar 18 06:41:02 2010 From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 13:41:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] PCV question Message-ID: Been reading this string with interest. I'd like to put a PCV valve on my BJ7. Which one do I buy? Is a valve from a similar displacement engine OK or is there more to it than that? I've seen a part number for a Canadian car parts store but that doesn't help if you don't live in Canada. What engine or make and model is this valve for? I've also seen it called a Type 1 metering valve. What is a Type 1 metering valve? I put one on my 69 Midget and it didn't really seem to do anything but now I realize why. I have the rocker cover vented. I'm going to seal that and see what ahppens. Thanks for the help and food for thought. 62 BJ7 61 Bugeye 69 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ From RAWDAWGS at aol.com Thu Mar 18 06:57:24 2010 From: RAWDAWGS at aol.com (RAWDAWGS at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 09:57:24 EDT Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot Message-ID: I would bet the food is pretty good at the Oprah set. Just sayin'. Scott From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Mar 18 07:35:13 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 07:35:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] PCV question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BA23A21.60005@comcast.net> Frank, You could buy the kit from BCS--it's not too expensive. Worth it for the instructions and explanation that comes with it. Also comes with a gasket for sealing the dipstick tube and the manifold fitting. You also want to seal the vent hole in the oil filler cap--I used a small machine screw with a nylon washer so it's reversible. OTOH, it's a common part--Type 1 IIRC--that you can get at any parts store (you want the metal 'inline' configuration). It's been a while since I installed the BCS kit, but I believe the barbed hose fitting that came with the kit for the manifold was the wrong thread and I ended up tapping my manifold, which I regret. Found out later there is a 'fuel type' thread fitting that might have worked without tapping that I saw at an AutoZone. Either way, you'll have to match up the different hose/valve IDs and ODs. bs Frank Edwards wrote: > Been reading this string with interest. I'd like to put a PCV valve on my > BJ7. Which one do I buy? Is a valve from a similar displacement engine OK or > is there more to it than that? I've seen a part number for a Canadian car > parts store but that doesn't help if you don't live in Canada. What engine or > make and model is this valve for? I've also seen it called a Type 1 metering > valve. What is a Type 1 metering valve? > > > > I put one on my 69 Midget and it didn't really seem to do anything but now I > realize why. I have the rocker cover vented. I'm going to seal that and see > what ahppens. > > > > Thanks for the help and food for thought. > > 62 BJ7 > > 61 Bugeye > > 69 Midget > > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mgtd51 at comcast.net Thu Mar 18 14:48:39 2010 From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 10:48:39 -1100 Subject: [Healeys] PCV question In-Reply-To: <4BA23A21.60005@comcast.net> References: <4BA23A21.60005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BA29FB7.7030907@comcast.net> I bought one from the Nock's - works great; stopped all the oil blowing out from the side covers. Larry Swift Bob Spidell wrote: > Frank, > > You could buy the kit from BCS--it's not too expensive. Worth it for > the instructions and explanation that comes with it. Also comes with > a gasket for sealing the dipstick tube and the manifold fitting. You > also want to seal the vent hole in the oil filler cap--I used a small > machine screw with a nylon washer so it's reversible. > > OTOH, it's a common part--Type 1 IIRC--that you can get at any parts > store (you want the metal 'inline' configuration). It's been a while > since I installed the BCS kit, but I believe the barbed hose fitting > that came with the kit for the manifold was the wrong thread and I > ended up tapping my manifold, which I regret. Found out later there > is a 'fuel type' thread fitting that might have worked without tapping > that I saw at an AutoZone. > > Either way, you'll have to match up the different hose/valve IDs and ODs. > > > bs > > > Frank Edwards wrote: >> Been reading this string with interest. I'd like to put a PCV valve >> on my >> BJ7. Which one do I buy? Is a valve from a similar displacement >> engine OK or >> is there more to it than that? I've seen a part number for a >> Canadian car >> parts store but that doesn't help if you don't live in Canada. What >> engine or >> make and model is this valve for? I've also seen it called a Type 1 >> metering >> valve. What is a Type 1 metering valve? >> >> >> >> I put one on my 69 Midget and it didn't really seem to do anything >> but now I >> realize why. I have the rocker cover vented. I'm going to seal that >> and see >> what ahppens. >> >> >> >> Thanks for the help and food for thought. >> >> 62 BJ7 >> >> 61 Bugeye >> >> 69 Midget >> >> >> >> Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com >> >> >> >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. >> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Mar 18 08:13:05 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 15:13:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] PCV question In-Reply-To: <4BA23A21.60005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <767950363.15635921268925185195.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Oops ... should be 'sheet metal screw' instead of 'machine screw.' Not enough coffee ... bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "Frank Edwards" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 7:35:13 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV question Frank, You could buy the kit from BCS--it's not too expensive. Worth it for the instructions and explanation that comes with it. Also comes with a gasket for sealing the dipstick tube and the manifold fitting. You also want to seal the vent hole in the oil filler cap--I used a small machine screw with a nylon washer so it's reversible. OTOH, it's a common part--Type 1 IIRC--that you can get at any parts store (you want the metal 'inline' configuration). It's been a while since I installed the BCS kit, but I believe the barbed hose fitting that came with the kit for the manifold was the wrong thread and I ended up tapping my manifold, which I regret. Found out later there is a 'fuel type' thread fitting that might have worked without tapping that I saw at an AutoZone. Either way, you'll have to match up the different hose/valve IDs and ODs. bs From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Mar 18 09:12:22 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 12:12:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 horn button In-Reply-To: <382503.31170.qm@web51506.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <382503.31170.qm@web51506.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01cac6b5$cb69f6e0$623de4a0$@net> OK. There are FOUR articles on Trafficators on my site. Go to the Technical page and you will find a section on Trafficators. Read those if you wish. For some strange reason, I put the most excellent article which includes photos on that same page under the Gauge heading. That is the one that you want. I will build a link to that article on the Trafficator section when I get around to it -- probably tonight. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jerry adams Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 9:46 AM To: lists Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN4 horn button Try John Sims web site www.healey6.com . He should have at least two well docummented articles, photos and comments, about Horn button cleaning and repair. One was done by Tracy Drummond more than several years ago and I can't remember the the other person who also did one but it was also very well done. Jerry BN2 ________________________________ From: lists To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, March 18, 2010 4:30:46 AM Subject: [Healeys] BN4 horn button A friend of mine (who's not on the list) has dissambled his horn button (early BN4) and cannot manage to get it together again. Can somebody please give me a hint where I can find instructions? I know there are plenty of resources on the internet, but can't find them at the moment. Thanks. Eric From price at advocateadvisors.com Thu Mar 18 09:33:13 2010 From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 11:33:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Door Operation Message-ID: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E623F41@SERVER.acrea.local> List - I have just finished installing a new panel kit on my BJ 8 and found the passenger door does not open from the inside (I know, I should have checked before I put it together). I can open it from the outside with the handle. Is there something I should check before I tear it apart again that could be a problem/solution I can handle from the outside, or am I just hoping against hope? Thanks. Price Lindsay From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Mar 18 10:18:53 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 10:18:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] PCV question In-Reply-To: <4BA23A21.60005@comcast.net> References: <4BA23A21.60005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <481140.52324.qm@web32903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Frank, Do you have a part no. I can't find the kit on the BCS Web Site TIA Ron ________________________________ From: Bob Spidell To: Frank Edwards Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, March 18, 2010 10:35:13 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV question Frank, You could buy the kit from BCS--it's not too expensive. Worth it for the instructions and explanation that comes with it. Also comes with a gasket for sealing the dipstick tube and the manifold fitting. You also want to seal the vent hole in the oil filler cap--I used a small machine screw with a nylon washer so it's reversible. OTOH, it's a common part--Type 1 IIRC--that you can get at any parts store (you want the metal 'inline' configuration). It's been a while since I installed the BCS kit, but I believe the barbed hose fitting that came with the kit for the manifold was the wrong thread and I ended up tapping my manifold, which I regret. Found out later there is a 'fuel type' thread fitting that might have worked without tapping that I saw at an AutoZone. Either way, you'll have to match up the different hose/valve IDs and ODs. bs Frank Edwards wrote: > Been reading this string with interest. I'd like to put a PCV valve on my > BJ7. Which one do I buy? Is a valve from a similar displacement engine OK or > is there more to it than that? I've seen a part number for a Canadian car > parts store but that doesn't help if you don't live in Canada. What engine or > make and model is this valve for? I've also seen it called a Type 1 metering > valve. What is a Type 1 metering valve? > > > > I put one on my 69 Midget and it didn't really seem to do anything but now I > realize why. I have the rocker cover vented. I'm going to seal that and see > what ahppens. > > > > Thanks for the help and food for thought. > > 62 BJ7 > > 61 Bugeye > > 69 Midget > > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From pennell at cox.net Thu Mar 18 10:19:54 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 13:19:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Door Operation In-Reply-To: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E623F41@SERVER.acrea.local> Message-ID: <20100318131954.0RLRQ.1079454.imail@eastrmwml28> Price, Question when the door is opened with the outside handle does the inside handle then function as it should? When one installs a door panel it has the habit of binding the door against the furflex. That is, the added thickness of the door panel tends to jam the door catch. I would try to press the door hard against the car and see if the inside handle will open it. Short of that you may need to pull the panel off and investigate. Keith ---- "R. Price Lindsay" wrote: > List - > > > > I have just finished installing a new panel kit on my BJ 8 and found the > passenger door does not open from the inside (I know, I should have > checked before I put it together). I can open it from the outside with > the handle. Is there something I should check before I tear it apart > again that could be a problem/solution I can handle from the outside, or > am I just hoping against hope? > > > > Thanks. > > > > Price Lindsay From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Mar 18 11:12:56 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:12:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Door Operation In-Reply-To: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E623F41@SERVER.acrea.local> References: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E623F41@SERVER.acrea.local> Message-ID: <02C1CAFAE1FC4686A5AB2F07FF0F2B9C@LIFEBOOK> Hi Price, I experienced exactly this problem with a car I assembled lat year. Turned out to be a minor problem with the degree of bend in the inside door latch where it bears against the release actuator. The exterior handle would contact and push the actuating lever far enough to allow the pivoting actuator to release the catch, while the inside pull rod wouldn't quite effect enough throw to cause release. I had to go back into the door (sorry) and bend the actuator just a bit more to allow full release. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "R. Price Lindsay" Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 12:33 PM To: "AustinHealey List" Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Door Operation > List - > > > > I have just finished installing a new panel kit on my BJ 8 and found the > passenger door does not open from the inside (I know, I should have > checked before I put it together). I can open it from the outside with > the handle. Is there something I should check before I tear it apart > again that could be a problem/solution I can handle from the outside, or > am I just hoping against hope? > > > > Thanks. > > > > Price Lindsay > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From INSIDEDIM at aol.com Thu Mar 18 14:46:01 2010 From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:46:01 EDT Subject: [Healeys] convertible top frame mounting brackets, BJ7/8 Message-ID: <5b44a.52a1a323.38d3f919@aol.com> Benevolent Listers, My BJ8 restoration is nearing the 20 year mark and I'm still having a serious problem with the convertible top and the mounting brackets. Sometime before the turn of the century I replaced the rear wheel arches and welded the old brackets onto the new arches - NOT - in the right positions. I've fiddled with the convertible top umpteen times and just lately have decided to tackle the bracket location problem. My car is completely painted and virtually everything is installed, but the top will not close properly and I'm bound and determined to solve this problem once and for all. Ideally I'd like to purchase new brackets but apparently they are not available anywhere so I guess I'm going to have to cut them away from the wheel arches and start over again. There are no pictures in any of the dozens of Healey books I've purchased over the years and nothing I've been able to glean from this list's archives or other Healey forums. So . . . in a fit of desperation, I'm appealing to the good folks on this list for any advice, photos, dimensions or even vague remembrances as to how this can be fixed before my driver's license is revoked due to old age. Bill BJ8 29298 From shop at justbrits.com Thu Mar 18 15:05:59 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:05:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] convertible top frame mounting brackets, BJ7/8 In-Reply-To: <5b44a.52a1a323.38d3f919@aol.com> References: <5b44a.52a1a323.38d3f919@aol.com> Message-ID: <4BA2A3C7.4000904@justbrits.com> << but the top will not close properly >> How, what, why, where, Bill ?? Better description needed. Ed From dan at warner-associates.com Thu Mar 18 15:38:18 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:38:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] New SU Filters for BJ8s Message-ID: I sent SU an e-mail asking if they have a modern replacement for the BJ8 filters. Here is the response. Hi Dan: At this time we do not offer a filter solution for the MKIII 'Big' Healeys. This is due to the large offset needed to clear the bonnet/apron in the HD8 equipped cars on both the front and rear carbs. We have a CAB (cold air box) design in the works but at this time demand does not justify production. Thank you for your interest in our products! Best regards J.D. (Dave) Gard http://su-filters.com From haywoodone at hotmail.com Thu Mar 18 17:09:51 2010 From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 20:09:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] convertible top frame mounting brackets, BJ7/8 In-Reply-To: <5b44a.52a1a323.38d3f919@aol.com> References: <5b44a.52a1a323.38d3f919@aol.com> Message-ID: Bill, Here are several pics of my restoration with the top frame base brackets in different views. Hopefully you can get some landmarks from these to help with the proper placement of yours. Since my car is complete now I can't get any measurements for you. Hope these help, George Haywood '65 bj8 > From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com > Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:46:01 -0400 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] convertible top frame mounting brackets, BJ7/8 > > Benevolent Listers, > > My BJ8 restoration is nearing the 20 year mark and I'm still having a > serious problem with the convertible top and the mounting brackets. > Sometime before the turn of the century I replaced the rear wheel arches and > welded the old brackets onto the new arches - NOT - in the right positions. > I've fiddled with the convertible top umpteen times and just lately have > decided to tackle the bracket location problem. My car is completely painted > and virtually everything is installed, but the top will not close properly > and I'm bound and determined to solve this problem once and for all. > Ideally I'd like to purchase new brackets but apparently they are not available > anywhere so I guess I'm going to have to cut them away from the wheel > arches and start over again. There are no pictures in any of the dozens of > Healey books I've purchased over the years and nothing I've been able to glean > from this list's archives or other Healey forums. > So . . . in a fit of desperation, I'm appealing to the good folks on > this list for any advice, photos, dimensions or even vague remembrances as > to how this can be fixed before my driver's license is revoked due to old > age. > > Bill _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 18 18:04:49 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 18:04:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Milwaukee Info Needed Message-ID: <832242.84379.qm@web50005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Listers, I can use some help from anyone located in the Milwaukee, WI area. If you can help, I would appreciate it if you can contact me off-list. Cheers, Carlos Cruz From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Mar 18 18:12:14 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 18:12:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] san francisco bay area visit Message-ID: <173126441003181812p56c16e02s93e4898f602d866b@mail.gmail.com> Howdy all, Going to the san francisco bay area this weekend and early part of next week. Any LBC related things to do and or see? cheers -- I Erbs 1960 BT7 68722 Portland, OR From shop at justbrits.com Thu Mar 18 18:50:59 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 20:50:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Stuff !! Message-ID: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> I have updated all three [3] lists of items For Sale on my site as of today as I have had an edict from SWMBO !!!!! There are some MGA, MGB and Spridget things in Parts F.S. ! There is a goodly amount of Healey [Big & Small] items in Memorabilia F.S. !! I DO have more to add, so please watch !! Happy hunting & Good Luck !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Mar 18 20:00:04 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 20:00:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] san francisco bay area visit In-Reply-To: <173126441003181812p56c16e02s93e4898f602d866b@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003181812p56c16e02s93e4898f602d866b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Dave Nock is doing a tech session at his shop on Saturday. His shop is British Car Specialists in Stockton. A bit away but worth it. Jump in Dave. I may have got the info wrong. Rich Kahn > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 18:12:14 -0700 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] san francisco bay area visit > > Howdy all, > Going to the san francisco bay area this weekend and early part of next > week. Any LBC related things to do and or see? > cheers > > -- > I Erbs > 1960 BT7 68722 > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Thu Mar 18 22:22:42 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 22:22:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stuff !! In-Reply-To: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> References: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <5caeedb51003182222q6b68d101wbcb3f2eb7ca2b0f3@mail.gmail.com> thanks ed. my car is still for sale and i appreciate it on your site. ron rader On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 6:50 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > I have updated all three [3] lists of items For Sale > on my site as of today as I have had an edict from > SWMBO !!!!! > > There are some MGA, MGB and Spridget things in > Parts F.S. ! > > There is a goodly amount of Healey [Big & Small] > items in Memorabilia F.S. !! > > I DO have more to add, so please watch !! > > Happy hunting & Good Luck !!! > > > Ed > Please visit MY site at: > www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Mar 19 06:25:42 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 06:25:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [Mgs] Stuff !! In-Reply-To: <8CC957E2E1E231E-43C8-1AA80@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> References: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> <8CC957E2E1E231E-43C8-1AA80@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Simple that would be JanDecMay 21, 2010. Ed uses a Whitworth calendar. On Fri, Mar 19, 2010 at 6:21 AM, wrote: > Ed, > > Visited your page and got puzzled. Where are you located, > solar-system-wise? > This date of a posting leaves that question in doubt: > > Updated 29/21/10 ! > > Cheers, > > Jay Donoghue > 72MGB-GT > 66 Mustang > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Shop at " Just Brits " > To: 4 - bugeye at yahoo ; 4 - Healeys > ; 4 - MG List ; 4 > -MidgetSprite - > Yahoo ; 4 - Spridgets > > Sent: Thu, Mar 18, 2010 9:50 pm > Subject: [Mgs] Stuff !! > > > I have updated all three [3] lists of items For Sale > on my site as of today as I have had an edict from > SWMBO !!!!! > > There are some MGA, MGB and Spridget things in > Parts F.S. ! > > There is a goodly amount of Healey [Big & Small] > items in Memorabilia F.S. !! > > I DO have more to add, so please watch !! > > Happy hunting & Good Luck !!! > > Ed > Please visit MY site at: > www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 19 07:59:35 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:59:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] san francisco bay area visit In-Reply-To: <173126441003181812p56c16e02s93e4898f602d866b@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003181812p56c16e02s93e4898f602d866b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4EFAC51D-9943-4664-8382-21BDC1784F80@sbcglobal.net> We are hosting a tech session for the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club on Saturday. Starting at 10am Also the club is having their opener for the year with a brunch in San Ramon and a tour of the Blackhawk Auto Museum on Saturday the 27th David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Mar 18, 2010, at 6:12 PM, I Erbs wrote: > Howdy all, > Going to the san francisco bay area this weekend and early part of > next > week. Any LBC related things to do and or see? > cheers > > -- > I Erbs > 1960 BT7 68722 > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From britishcars at shaw.ca Fri Mar 19 08:11:48 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 08:11:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny.... Message-ID: An Irish Story Recently a routine police patrol was parked outside a bar in Donegal Town. After last call, the officer noticed a man leaving the bar so apparently intoxicated that he could barely walk. The man stumbled around the parking lot for a few minutes, with the officer quietly observing. After what seemed an eternity, in which he tried his keys on five different vehicles, the man managed to find his car and fall into it. He sat there for a few minutes as a number of other patrons left the bar and drove off. Finally he started the car, switched the wipers on and off; it was a fine, dry summer night, flicked the blinkers on and off a couple of times, honked the horn and then switched on the lights. He moved the vehicle forward a few inches, reversed a little, and then remained still for a few more minutes as some more of the other patrons' vehicles left. At last, when his was the only car left in the parking lot, he pulled out and drove slowly down the road. The police officer, having waited patiently all this time, now started up his patrol car, put on the flashing lights, and promptly pulled the man over and administered a breathalyser test. To his amazement, the breathalyser indicated no evidence that the man had consumed any alcohol at all! Dumbfounded, the officer said, 'I'll have to ask you to accompany me to the police station. This breathalyser equipment must be broken.' 'I doubt it,' said Paddy, truly proud of himself. 'Tonight I'm the designated decoy! From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 19 09:46:24 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:46:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Mgs] Stuff !! In-Reply-To: <8CC957E2E1E231E-43C8-1AA80@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> References: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> <8CC957E2E1E231E-43C8-1AA80@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BA3AA60.2000802@justbrits.com> << This date of a posting leaves that question in doubt: *Updated 29/21/10 !* >> Now that you have driven me CLOSER to insanity Jay, WHERE is that "date" ??? Dam*ed if I can find it !?! From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 19 09:48:33 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:48:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Mgs] Stuff !! In-Reply-To: References: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> <8CC957E2E1E231E-43C8-1AA80@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BA3AAE1.5040902@justbrits.com> << Ed uses a Whitworth calendar. >> Lord NO Rick, tools are bad enough !! Huuum, tnx for idea !! Got some extra of those I should let go !! From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 19 09:50:50 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:50:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Mgs] Stuff !! In-Reply-To: References: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> <8CC957E2E1E231E-43C8-1AA80@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BA3AB6A.6080407@justbrits.com> CLOSE, Paul !! << That's Chicago for you. >> Yer right about THAT but [thank G*d] I escaped living in City or equally as bad - Cook Co, !! From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 19 09:52:26 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:52:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Stuff !! In-Reply-To: <5caeedb51003182222q6b68d101wbcb3f2eb7ca2b0f3@mail.gmail.com> References: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> <5caeedb51003182222q6b68d101wbcb3f2eb7ca2b0f3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA3ABCA.2040907@justbrits.com> << my car is still for sale and i appreciate it on your site. >> Glad to do it, Ron !! Just wish somebody would buy her that would be such as good a caretaker as you have been !! From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Mar 19 10:02:55 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:02:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [Mgs] Stuff !! In-Reply-To: <4BA3AA60.2000802@justbrits.com> References: <4BA2D883.2010204@justbrits.com> <8CC957E2E1E231E-43C8-1AA80@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> <4BA3AA60.2000802@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <173126441003191002n4fbea360v458022ac2c803f54@mail.gmail.com> try a stardate calendar? On Fri, Mar 19, 2010 at 9:46 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << This date of a posting leaves that question in doubt: > > *Updated 29/21/10 !* >> > > Now that you have driven me CLOSER to insanity Jay, > WHERE is that "date" ??? Dam*ed if I can find it !?! > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu Fri Mar 19 10:25:54 2010 From: cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu (Charlie Frazer) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:25:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Seeking DMH Pix Message-ID: Fellow Healey Enthusiasts: Our club is looking for a dramatic image of Donald Healey to use in a Healey Rendezvous 2010 backdrop. Ideally, the image would depict DMH in racing grab in a waist-up portrait taken in front on one of his cars. This image will be used on a vinyl graphic about 8' X 8' at Rendezvous and used in the future as a banner for the club. We're a car club, not a commercial organization, so we don't have a lot to spend on rights fees. All suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. Charlie Frazer Austin Healey Club of Oregon cfrazer at uoregon.edu From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Mar 18 19:58:39 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 19:58:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny Message-ID: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> As an airline pilot I found this amusing. This actually explains a lot... it will make your day.... Happy Friday! A DC airport ticket agent offers some examples of 'why' our country is in trouble! 1. I had a New Hampshire Congresswoman (Carol Shea-Porter) ask for an aisle seat so that her hair wouldn't get messed up by being near the window.. (On an airplane!) 2. I got a call from a Kansas Congressman's (Moore) staffer (Howard Bauleke), who wanted to go to Cape Town. I started to explain the length of the flight and the passport information, and then he interrupted me with, ''I'm not trying to make you look stupid, but Cape Town is in assachusetts .'' Without trying to make him look stupid, I calmly explained, ''Cape Cod is in Massachusetts , Cape Town is in South Africa '' his response -- click. 3. A senior Vermont Congressman (Bernie Sanders) called, furious about a Florida package we did. I asked what was wrong with the vacation in Orlando . He said he was expecting an ocean-view room. I tried to explain that's not possible, since Orlando is in the middle of the state. He replied, 'Don't lie to me, I looked on the map and Florida is a very thin state!' 4. I got a call from a lawmaker's wife (Landra Reid) who asked, ''Is it possible to see England from Canada?'' I said, ''No.'' She said, ''But they look so close on the map.'' 5. An aide for a cabinet member (Janet Napolitano) once called and asked if he could rent a car in Dallas . I pulled up the reservation and noticed he had only a 1-hour layover in Dallas. When I asked him why he wanted to rent a car, he said, ''I heard Dallas was a big airport, and we will need a car to drive between gates to save time.'' 6. An Illinois Congresswoman (Jan Schakowsky) called last week. She needed to know how it was possible that her flight from Detroit left at 8:30 a.m., and got to Chicago at 8:33 a.m. I explained that Michigan was an hour ahead of Illinois, but she couldn't understand the concept of time zones. Finally, I told her the plane went fast, and she bought that. 7. A New York lawmaker (Jerrold Nadler) called and asked, ''Do airlines put your physical description on your bag so they know whose luggage belongs to whom?'' I said, 'No, why do you ask?' He replied, ''Well, when I checked in with the airline, they put a tag on my luggage that said (FAT), and I'm overweight I think that's very rude!'' After putting him on hold for a minute, while I looked into it. (I was dying laughing). I came back and explained the city code for Fresno , Ca. is (FAT - Fresno Air Terminal), and the airline was just putting a destination tag on his luggage. 8. A Senator John Kerry aide (Lindsay Ross) called to inquire about a trip package to Hawaii. After going over all the cost info, she asked, ''Would it be cheaper to fly to California and then take the train to Hawaii?'' 9. I just got off the phone with a freshman Congressman, Bobby Bright from Alabama who asked, ''How do I know which plane to get on?'' I asked him what exactly he meant, to which he replied, ''I was told my flight number is 823, but none of these planes have numbers on them.'' 10. Senator Dianne Feinstein called and said, ''I need to fly to Pepsi-Cola, Florida. Do I have to get on one of those little computer planes?'' I asked if she meant fly to Pensacola, FL on a commuter plane. She said, ''Yeah, whatever, smarty!'' 11. Mary Landrieu , La. Senator called and had a question about the documents she needed in order to fly to China . After a lengthy discussion about passports, I reminded her that she needed a visa. 'Oh, no I don't. I've been to China many times and never had to have one of those.'' I double checked and sure enough, her stay required a visa.. When I told her this she said, ''Look, I've been to China four times and every time they have accepted my American Express!'' 12. A New Jersey Congressman (John Adler) called to make reservations, ''I want to go from Chicago to Rhino, New York .'' I was at a loss for words. Finally, I said, ''Are you sure that's the name of the town?'' 'Yes, what flights do you have?'' replied the man. After some searching, I came back with, ''I'm sorry, sir, I've looked up every airport code in the country and can't find a rhino anywhere." ''The man retorted, ''Oh, don't be silly! Everyone knows where it is. Check your map!'' So I scoured a map of the state of New York and finally offered, ''You don't mean Buffalo , do you?'' The reply? ''Whatever! I knew it was a big animal.'' Now you know why the Government is in the shape that it's in! Could anyone be this DUMB? YES, THEY WALK AMONG US From amalin at mac.com Fri Mar 19 11:06:13 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 14:06:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Subject: Department of Defense briefing The Dept of Defense briefed the president this morning. They told President Obama that 2 Brazilian soldiers were killed in Iraq. To everyone's surprise, all the color drained from Obama's face. Then he collapsed onto his desk, head in his hands, visibly shaken, almost in tears. Finally, he composed himself and asked, 'Just how many is a brazilian?' From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Mar 19 11:34:56 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:34:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car Message-ID: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> anyone see anything odd about this bid stream? I keep being outbid by someone with no bid history....*http://tinyurl.com/yk58ucv if you want to take a look. please notice the blue head in this original car.....* *Bidder* Bid Amount Bid Time r***2( 0 ) US $8,239.00 Mar-19-10 11:15:37 PDT eyera3 ( 67[image: Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $8,139.00 Mar-19-10 11:22:38 PDT eyera3 ( 67[image: Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $7,533.00 Mar-19-10 11:22:05 PDT eyera3 ( 67[image: Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $2,533.00 Mar-19-10 11:21:47 PDT -- I Erbs Portland, OR From david at dleong.org Fri Mar 19 11:37:28 2010 From: david at dleong.org (David Leong) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:37:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00b401cac793$3a9a2160$afce6420$@org> Resend. Including original was too large for the list rules. http://www.snopes.com/travel/trap/congress.asp Dave -----Original Message----- From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 7:59 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny Could anyone be this DUMB? YES, THEY WALK AMONG US _______________________________________________ From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 19 11:45:27 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 13:45:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA3C647.3030209@justbrits.com> << anyone see anything odd about this bid stream? I keep being outbid by someone with no bid history. >> Yes Ira, but NOT "odd" to me since there are only four [4] bids; 3 by you [I am guessing] and one [1] by the other person ??? And SIX [6] days to go ?? So I guess I fail to see whatever you are trying to get at ?? Ed From ah3000me at gmail.com Fri Mar 19 11:47:09 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 14:47:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <00b401cac793$3a9a2160$afce6420$@org> References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> <00b401cac793$3a9a2160$afce6420$@org> Message-ID: And yet, it seems so plausible.... On Fri, Mar 19, 2010 at 2:37 PM, David Leong wrote: > Resend. Including original was too large for the list rules. > > http://www.snopes.com/travel/trap/congress.asp > > Dave > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Curt/Nancy Arndt > Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 7:59 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny > > > Could anyone be this DUMB? > > YES, THEY WALK AMONG US > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Fri Mar 19 11:55:04 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:55:04 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <4BA3C647.3030209@justbrits.com> References: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> <4BA3C647.3030209@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4BA3C888.9070709@bradakis.com> The bidding looks pretty normal to me. The other person entered his maximum bid, and EBay will automatically bid for him until that max is reached. mjb. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Mar 19 11:58:00 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 19:58:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA3C938.4090603@chello.nl> Ira, No hanky panky here. Someone has put up a highish first bit that you have not met yet. If this person has no bid history is not a big deal. We all have to start somewere. Anyway the reserve has not been met by neither of you so for this amount there will be no deal. Kees Oudesluijs I Erbs schreef: > anyone see anything odd about this bid stream? I keep being outbid by > someone with no bid history....*http://tinyurl.com/yk58ucv if you want to > take a look. please notice the blue head in this original car.....* > *Bidder* Bid > Amount Bid Time > r***2( > 0 ) US $8,239.00 > Mar-19-10 11:15:37 PDT > eyera3 ( > 67[image: > Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $8,139.00 > Mar-19-10 11:22:38 PDT > eyera3 ( > 67[image: > Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $7,533.00 > Mar-19-10 11:22:05 PDT > eyera3 ( > 67[image: > Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $2,533.00 > Mar-19-10 11:21:47 PDT > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.791 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2756 - datum van uitgifte: 03/19/10 08:33:00 From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Mar 19 12:16:57 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:16:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <4BA3C647.3030209@justbrits.com> References: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> <4BA3C647.3030209@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <173126441003191216l6458433dxbb96fb4f8c37b0ef@mail.gmail.com> there was an opening bid of 200.00 from seller. I posted a bid and was notified of being outbid by a seller with no history. I rebid twice more and was outbid again by 0 history bidder. Just wondering if the other bidder is the seller..... That was my point.... On Fri, Mar 19, 2010 at 11:45 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << anyone see anything odd about this bid stream? I keep being > outbid by someone with no bid history. >> > > Yes Ira, but NOT "odd" to me since there are only > four [4] bids; 3 by you [I am guessing] and one [1] > by the other person ??? And SIX [6] days to go ?? > > So I guess I fail to see whatever you are trying to > get at ?? > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From charliefci at yahoo.com Fri Mar 19 12:43:58 2010 From: charliefci at yahoo.com (Charlie) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:43:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <173126441003191216l6458433dxbb96fb4f8c37b0ef@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <247993.2526.qm@web112009.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I Erbs, Are you familiar with snipes.com? If not check it out-- it's the only way to go on expensive/important items when bidding online auctions. Charlie From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 19 12:52:04 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 14:52:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <173126441003191216l6458433dxbb96fb4f8c37b0ef@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> <4BA3C647.3030209@justbrits.com> <173126441003191216l6458433dxbb96fb4f8c37b0ef@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA3D5E4.6070505@justbrits.com> << Just wondering if the other bidder is the seller..... >> "Could" be, Ira even tho it's not supposed to be AFAIK. << That was my point.... >> Well IMO, far to early to be "alarmed"?!? If there were say 40 bids and it started happening then either your scenario OR some other person REALLY wanting it would fly !!!! Ed From amalin at mac.com Fri Mar 19 12:53:11 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:53:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Resending because the last one-line paragraph was chopped off when distributed by the list (I changed single quotes to double quotes to see if that was the problem). Subject: Department of Defense briefing The Dept of Defense briefed the president this morning. They told President Obama that 2 Brazilian soldiers were killed in Iraq. To everyone's surprise, all the color drained from Obama's face. Then he collapsed onto his desk, head in his hands, visibly shaken, almost in tears. Finally, he composed himself and asked, "Just how many is a brazilian?" From mgcharlie at comcast.net Fri Mar 19 12:54:20 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:54:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <173126441003191216l6458433dxbb96fb4f8c37b0ef@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> <4BA3C647.3030209@justbrits.com> <173126441003191216l6458433dxbb96fb4f8c37b0ef@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA3D66C.5010808@comcast.net> No, he must have just put in a fairly high maximum bid and each time you bid, you were automatically outbid. I Erbs wrote: > there was an opening bid of 200.00 from seller. I posted a bid and was > notified of being outbid by a seller with no history. I rebid twice more and > was outbid again by 0 history bidder. Just wondering if the other bidder is > the seller..... > That was my point.... > > > > On Fri, Mar 19, 2010 at 11:45 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " >> wrote: >> > > >> << anyone see anything odd about this bid stream? I keep being >> outbid by someone with no bid history. >> >> >> Yes Ira, but NOT "odd" to me since there are only >> four [4] bids; 3 by you [I am guessing] and one [1] >> by the other person ??? And SIX [6] days to go ?? >> >> So I guess I fail to see whatever you are trying to >> get at ?? >> >> Ed >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From amalin at mac.com Fri Mar 19 12:59:07 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:59:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <185728ED-CB17-4DAF-95FB-6E299AB5E76D@mac.com> Cut off again. The last line is This is not surprising, since he obviously has no understanding of billion or trillion either. I'm sure I'll catch a bunch of grief for 1) the joke itself and 2) the resends. This will be my last try to get the last paragraph to post. Extending my apology in advance. Subject: Department of Defense briefing The Department of Defense briefed the president this morning. They told President Obama that 2 Brazilian soldiers were killed in Iraq. To everyone's surprise, all the color drained from Obama's face. Then he collapsed onto his desk, head in his hands, visibly shaken, almost in tears. Finally, he composed himself and asked, "Just how many is a brazilian?". This is not surprising, since he obviously has no understanding of billion or trillion either. From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 19 13:09:27 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:09:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: ogeye Club..... News from Blighty] Message-ID: <4BA3D9F7.2060903@justbrits.com> From the Bugeye List !!! Nice !!! Who is gonna be FIRST to get one ??? -------- Original Message -------- Here's a little newsie-news item that some might enjoy: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1259137/McLaren-takes-Ferrari-affordable-green-supercar-dubbed-F1-car-road.html#ixzz0idqVBoeS The article measures the engine output by the number of Ford Fiesta that represents. I wonder how many bugeye sprite equivalents that translates to? Let's see, 600 divided by 43... George in Maryland __._,_.___ Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post | Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (1) Recent Activity: Visit Your Group If you wish to unsubscribe from the Austin Healey Bugeye Frogeye Sprite Club, please send a blank email to: bugeye-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com If you no longer want to receive emails, but wish to remain a member of the group, you may go to the website http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bugeye/ and change your subscription to "Web Only" and you will not receive any emails. Yahoo! Groups Switch to: Text-Only , Daily Digest  Unsubscribe  Terms of Use . __,_._,___ From britcrs at gmail.com Fri Mar 19 13:14:11 2010 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 13:14:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <4BA3D66C.5010808@comcast.net> References: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> <4BA3C647.3030209@justbrits.com> <173126441003191216l6458433dxbb96fb4f8c37b0ef@mail.gmail.com> <4BA3D66C.5010808@comcast.net> Message-ID: This seller is real, I've been to his store. He has had a lot of cars on eBay and I doubt that he would be using a shill bidder this early in the auction. Marv J On Fri, Mar 19, 2010 at 12:54 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > No, he must have just put in a fairly high maximum bid and each time you > bid, you were automatically outbid. > > I Erbs wrote: > > there was an opening bid of 200.00 from seller. I posted a bid and was > > notified of being outbid by a seller with no history. I rebid twice more > and > > was outbid again by 0 history bidder. Just wondering if the other bidder > is > > the seller..... > > That was my point.... > > > > > > > > On Fri, Mar 19, 2010 at 11:45 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " < > shop at justbrits.com > > > >> wrote: > >> > > > > > >> << anyone see anything odd about this bid stream? I keep being > >> outbid by someone with no bid history. >> > >> > >> Yes Ira, but NOT "odd" to me since there are only > >> four [4] bids; 3 by you [I am guessing] and one [1] > >> by the other person ??? And SIX [6] days to go ?? > >> > >> So I guess I fail to see whatever you are trying to > >> get at ?? > >> > >> Ed > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Mar 19 13:21:03 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:21:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003191134t262fa78ekc6ac33b6f7735e61@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <92C2CB560FD242C2A6D09A2F4A91B36C@LIFEBOOK> Ira, You made a point of noting the blue head. That is not a particularly original car. I'd agree it hasn't been far apart, but a lot of things have been messed with. That engine is not at all as original, nor is the fairly fresh blue cylinder head paint. A lot of plumbing has been messed with, wiring harness patched in a number of places, regulator replaced with something else, alternator, choke bracket upside down, engine bay's a mess. Grille assembly has been pulled out and replaced wrong. Interior is interesting. Somebody has pulled off all the console vinyl and padding. The seats look good and they're original. The rear fold down panel has been stuck in place upside down. Carpets all gone. Poor back window in the top is folded and crunched. This could be a relatively easy restoration but, "the best unrestored Healey in California"????? I think not. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "I Erbs" Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 2:34 PM To: "healey help" Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car > anyone see anything odd about this bid stream? I keep being outbid by > someone with no bid history....*http://tinyurl.com/yk58ucv if you want to > take a look. please notice the blue head in this original car.....* > *Bidder* Bid > Amount Bid Time > r***2( > 0 ) US $8,239.00 > Mar-19-10 11:15:37 PDT > eyera3 ( > 67[image: > Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $8,139.00 > Mar-19-10 11:22:38 PDT > eyera3 ( > 67[image: > Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $7,533.00 > Mar-19-10 11:22:05 PDT > eyera3 ( > 67[image: > Feedback score is 50 to 99]) US $2,533.00 > Mar-19-10 11:21:47 PDT > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From grday at btinternet.com Fri Mar 19 13:57:40 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:57:40 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> <185728ED-CB17-4DAF-95FB-6E299AB5E76D@mac.com> Message-ID: Al, Just a little bunch of grief for the joke ..... When this was first posted a few years ago wasn't it a President Bush they reported it to? LOL. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Malin" To: "Healey List" Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 7:59 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny > Cut off again. The last line is > This is not surprising, since he obviously has no understanding of billion > or > trillion either. > > I'm sure I'll catch a bunch of grief for 1) the joke itself and 2) the > resends. This will be my last try to get the last paragraph to post. > > Extending my apology in advance. > > > > Subject: Department of Defense briefing > > > The Department of Defense briefed the president this morning. > > They told President Obama that 2 Brazilian soldiers were killed in Iraq. > To > everyone's surprise, all the color drained from Obama's face. Then he > collapsed onto his desk, head in his hands, visibly shaken, almost in > tears. > Finally, he composed himself and asked, "Just how many is a brazilian?". > > This is not surprising, since he obviously has no understanding of billion > or > trillion either. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com From ampole at hotmail.com Fri Mar 19 14:17:44 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:17:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] convertible top frame mounting brackets, BJ7/8 In-Reply-To: <5b44a.52a1a323.38d3f919@aol.com> References: <5b44a.52a1a323.38d3f919@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi Bill I have been helping another guy that asked the same question on my website, heres aphoto, drawing and measurements I sent him, my inner rear wings have been replaced but we used a cellette jig, unfortunately the brackets are not referenced on the jig so we made cardboard templates to locate, anyway we trial fitted the frame and screen and all was okay, hopefully it will help. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ Send us your Hotmail stories and be featured in our newsletter http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Mar 19 15:10:58 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 22:10:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <92C2CB560FD242C2A6D09A2F4A91B36C@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <1065122180.16226431269036658014.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I'll be watching this auction closely--my BJ8 is an unrestored CA car in much better shape than this one. I guess the original black/yellow plates are worth something? bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" To: "I Erbs" , "healey help" Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 1:21:03 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car Ira, You made a point of noting the blue head. That is not a particularly original car. I'd agree it hasn't been far apart, but a lot of things have been messed with. That engine is not at all as original, nor is the fairly fresh blue cylinder head paint. A lot of plumbing has been messed with, wiring harness patched in a number of places, regulator replaced with something else, alternator, choke bracket upside down, engine bay's a mess. Grille assembly has been pulled out and replaced wrong. Interior is interesting. Somebody has pulled off all the console vinyl and padding. The seats look good and they're original. The rear fold down panel has been stuck in place upside down. Carpets all gone. Poor back window in the top is folded and crunched. This could be a relatively easy restoration but, "the best unrestored Healey in California"????? I think not. Rich From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com Fri Mar 19 15:12:07 2010 From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:12:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bidding on ebay for a car In-Reply-To: <173126441003191216l6458433dxbb96fb4f8c37b0ef@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Ira, On the bidding page (just above the bids), you'll see "Show automatic bids". Click that and you'll see what's happening in more detail. The zero next to the bidder's name doesn't mean they've never bid before, just that they haven't won a bid for an auction. Good luck with the auction, Greg -----Original Message----- there was an opening bid of 200.00 from seller. I posted a bid and was notified of being outbid by a seller with no history. I rebid twice more and was outbid again by 0 history bidder. Just wondering if the other bidder is the seller..... From kentmclean at comcast.net Fri Mar 19 16:13:41 2010 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 19:13:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Archie Moore George Barris Nash-Healey Message-ID: <4BA40525.70208@comcast.net> Posted on Bring a Trailer. NFI, etc. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From raymead at comcast.net Fri Mar 19 16:17:23 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 23:17:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Archie Moore George Barris Nash-Healey In-Reply-To: <4BA40525.70208@comcast.net> Message-ID: <663498914.6961131269040643042.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> its also on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1953-Nash-Healey_W0QQitemZ270547790091QQcmdZVi ewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efde7a90b ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent McLean" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 7:13:41 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [Healeys] Archie Moore George Barris Nash-Healey Posted on Bring a Trailer. NFI, etc. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/raymead at comcast.net From warthodson at aol.com Fri Mar 19 17:00:14 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:00:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CC95D7737B684F-5278-E131@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> Good joke but it would be more believable if it were President Bush. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Al Malin To: Healey List Sent: Fri, Mar 19, 2010 1:06 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny Subject: Department of Defense briefing he Dept of Defense briefed the president this morning. They told President Obama that 2 Brazilian soldiers were killed in Iraq. To veryone's surprise, all the color drained from Obama's face. Then he ollapsed onto his desk, head in his hands, visibly shaken, almost in tears. inally, he composed himself and asked, 'Just how many is a brazilian?' ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From ynotink at msn.com Fri Mar 19 18:06:29 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 01:06:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <8CC95D7737B684F-5278-E131@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com>, , <8CC95D7737B684F-5278-E131@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: For all those still clinging desperately to the "Bush is an idiot" meme, Stand back and watch Obama show us a real idiot in action. > To: amalin at mac.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:00:14 -0400 > From: warthodson at aol.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny > > Good joke but it would be more believable if it were President Bush. > > Gary > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Al Malin > To: Healey List > Sent: Fri, Mar 19, 2010 1:06 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny > > > Subject: Department of Defense briefing > > he Dept of Defense briefed the president this morning. > They told President Obama that 2 Brazilian soldiers were killed in Iraq. To > veryone's surprise, all the color drained from Obama's face. Then he > ollapsed onto his desk, head in his hands, visibly shaken, almost in tears. > inally, he composed himself and asked, 'Just how many is a brazilian?' > ______________________________________________ > ealeys at autox.team.net > onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > uggested annual donation $12.75 > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From dcongleton at embarqmail.com Fri Mar 19 18:14:03 2010 From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:14:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com> <8CC95D7737B684F-5278-E131@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Actually more believable as Bush had a Masters Degree in Business from Harvard- The play here is that Obama is spending so much money, that he doesn't seem to care (or know) if the programs cost billions or trillions - so how many is a gazillion ? dc ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 8:00 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny > Good joke but it would be more believable if it were President Bush. > > Gary > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Al Malin > To: Healey List > Sent: Fri, Mar 19, 2010 1:06 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny > > > Subject: Department of Defense briefing > > he Dept of Defense briefed the president this morning. > They told President Obama that 2 Brazilian soldiers were killed in Iraq. > To > veryone's surprise, all the color drained from Obama's face. Then he > ollapsed onto his desk, head in his hands, visibly shaken, almost in > tears. > inally, he composed himself and asked, 'Just how many is a brazilian?' From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Mar 19 19:17:48 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 22:17:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: References: <751d05481003181958m46278179pd75e7d9ed83bc5d1@mail.gmail.com>, , <8CC95D7737B684F-5278-E131@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000301cac7d3$89856c90$9c9045b0$@net> And, actually, Bush got better grades at Harvard than Kerry so who is the idiot? Just because one isn't a glib speaker does not mean one is not smart. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 9:06 PM To: warthodson at aol.com; amalin at mac.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny For all those still clinging desperately to the "Bush is an idiot" meme, Stand back and watch Obama show us a real idiot in action. > To: amalin at mac.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:00:14 -0400 > From: warthodson at aol.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny > > Good joke but it would be more believable if it were President Bush. > > Gary From mark at bradakis.com Fri Mar 19 19:22:36 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:22:36 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] List topics Message-ID: <4BA4316C.6030204@bradakis.com> For those with a single digit IQ this could be hard to figure out. Sort of like that fellow who sent 15 messages trying to get off the list. Alas, poor AOL loser, I did not know him well. Healeys at autox.team.net is for discussion about Healeys. I know, a shocking revelation. Deal with it. Sure, over the years a community of friends has been built up and we often wander into the realms of other subjects. Such behavior can't be avoided and often offers a welcome respite from a dry and droll monotone conversation. [ Cannibal kids?? ] Getting too far into politics is not appropriate for this list. I'm tempted to make use of my position as the all powerful Lord and Omnipotent Ruler of Team.Net and subscribe the lot of you to the list the-local at autox.team.net where you would be welcome to rant and rave about politics until your keyboard melts from the abuse and flaming responses. You can rest assured, though, that I would not start the ball rolling by posting some sort of nonsense that would offend the most people possible, never, honest, trust me ;-) As for the Healey list, though, stay focused and play nice. mjb. http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/the-local From rwil at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 19 19:26:08 2010 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (rwil at sbcglobal.net) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 02:26:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny Message-ID: <2042837705-1269051993-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2091100628-@bda2565.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Can we please get back to Healey topics? I didn't subscribe to this list for political discussion. -Roland Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 19 20:05:26 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:05:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] List topics In-Reply-To: <4BA4316C.6030204@bradakis.com> References: <4BA4316C.6030204@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <281817.446.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Perhaps it's a misunderstanding? Could the 15-message-guy be trying to get off on the list and not necessarily get off the list? I'm just sayin... ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, March 19, 2010 9:22:36 PM Subject: [Healeys] List topics For those with a single digit IQ this could be hard to figure out. Sort of like that fellow who sent 15 messages trying to get off the list. Alas, poor AOL loser, I did not know him well. Healeys at autox.team.net is for discussion about Healeys. I know, a shocking revelation. Deal with it. Sure, over the years a community of friends has been built up and we often wander into the realms of other subjects. Such behavior can't be avoided and often offers a welcome respite from a dry and droll monotone conversation. [ Cannibal kids?? ] Getting too far into politics is not appropriate for this list. I'm tempted to make use of my position as the all powerful Lord and Omnipotent Ruler of Team.Net and subscribe the lot of you to the list the-local at autox.team.net where you would be welcome to rant and rave about politics until your keyboard melts from the abuse and flaming responses. You can rest assured, though, that I would not start the ball rolling by posting some sort of nonsense that would offend the most people possible, never, honest, trust me ;-) As for the Healey list, though, stay focused and play nice. mjb. http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/the-local _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com From shop at justbrits.com Fri Mar 19 20:16:17 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 22:16:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List topics In-Reply-To: <281817.446.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4BA4316C.6030204@bradakis.com> <281817.446.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BA43E01.6030207@justbrits.com> << I'm just sayin... >> Careful Carlos, Yahoo is only ONE step away from POS aol. [but true] !! From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 19 19:38:21 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 19:38:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] single stage BBQ Black Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> I am still learning about paint and thought I could buy a single stage paint that would be close to the ubiquitous barbecue black; well that's not the case. What are other people using other than powder coating, rattle cans and base clear/clear coats to paint parts black with a compressor/spray gun system. Does anyone have a paint that they would recommend for this system? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 19 22:38:07 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 22:38:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Need a lotto HOLE help In-Reply-To: <69C5D023145F4AA1AD11929EE3D3048F@LIFEBOOK> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100315220840.0205e0b8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <69C5D023145F4AA1AD11929EE3D3048F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319222621.01fcee78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Thanks to all for the hole size. Perry checked a couple of shrouds and it looked like a loose 1/2 while Rich believed it was 5/8". Because of the uncertainty, I drilled a 9/16" hole. John '62 BT7 >From: "john spaur" >Subject: [Healeys] Need a lotto HOLE help >>On the rear shroud, my welder filled in the license plate >>electrical lead hole. Would someone be so kind to tell me it's diameter? >>John Spaur From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 19 23:10:56 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 23:10:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud upper rivets Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319230553.01fbfb60@pop.att.yahoo.com> I took photos but the contrast washes out the detail !#??!!# Are pot rivets used to secure the shroud to the chassis hoop? 1/8" rivets? TIA, John Spaur '62 BT7 "I really did take photographs!" From price at advocateadvisors.com Sat Mar 20 05:23:31 2010 From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 07:23:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Regulator Message-ID: <14E9EAC9-3E10-4BEF-AC32-B5A769E899D2@advocateadvisors.com> Listers - I recently cleaned the engine compartment of my BJ 8 and noticed smoke coming from around the voltage regulator. I pulled it loose from the firewall and found the thick insulated green and red wires on the back were VERY hot. Is this normal? Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks Price Lindsay 67 BJ 8 From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Mar 20 06:53:35 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 06:53:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 on eBay Message-ID: <4BA4D35F.4080305@comcast.net> re: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280481160202 I have a hard time believing this car only has "56,092 miles." My BJ8, built in late 1966 and sold and registered in 1967 is an "unrestored" CA with over 165K miles, and overall is in much better (apparent) condition than this car. For instance: - the dash on this car appears much more weathered - the chrome trim on the dash appears more beat up - the wheel wells appear to be rusted inside. Mine were undercoated, but a lot of the undercoating has flaked off and the paint is in good shape (guess the undercoating worked well in this case) - what the h*ll happened to the interior? Carpeting missing, floorboards appear rusted, trim bolts and washers rusted, etc. - looks like a non-original distributor--why would anyone change the distributor on a low-mileage car? - non-original voltage regulator (Rich pointed this out). My car has the original VR, which is working fine - horns may have been messed with (my car's horn mounts are different) - engine bay overall appears much more aged and neglected - small panel with grommet that surrounds steering column is severely rusted - funky, non-original carpet in boot - hacked-up, non-original battery box (maybe a serious leak from the battery rusted out boot floor?) - looks like car was given Earl Schrieb paint job (rear bumper grommets appear painted over) I could go on, but, it sure appears that while the odometer might indicate 56K, this car has either been abused or has at least 156K miles (maybe the odometer quit working oh, say, 20 years ago?). Caveat emptor. bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 20 07:03:34 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:03:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Regulator In-Reply-To: <14E9EAC9-3E10-4BEF-AC32-B5A769E899D2@advocateadvisors.com> References: <14E9EAC9-3E10-4BEF-AC32-B5A769E899D2@advocateadvisors.com> Message-ID: Price - those aren't wires, they are resistors. Your VR is likely maladjusted, but if you've smoked the resistors, probably a replacement is in order. On 3/20/10, R. Price Lindsay wrote: > Listers - > > I recently cleaned the engine compartment of my BJ 8 and noticed smoke > coming from around the voltage regulator. I pulled it loose from the > firewall and found the thick insulated green and red wires on the back > were VERY hot. Is this normal? Any suggestions on what to do? > > Thanks > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ 8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Mar 20 07:43:42 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 10:43:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Message-ID: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an Ammeter and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Weight Loss Program Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=8S_u_lqHRBtTPQdrlcGLrgAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEUgAAAAA= From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Mar 20 08:23:55 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 02:23:55 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] single stage BBQ Black In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <18F015C1-2AE2-4527-AC24-E5B25E8BA04B@gmail.com> What parts John? Have you tried brushing POR15? Mainly for gloss black. Awesome finish for a brushed paint. You can also spray it. Even at night, when it's raining outside.... Chris www.myaustinhealey.com P.S No commercial interest... Sent from my iPhone On 20/03/2010, at 1:38 PM, john spaur wrote: > I am still learning about paint and thought I could buy a single > stage paint that would be close to the ubiquitous barbecue black; > well that's not the case. > > What are other people using other than powder coating, rattle cans > and base clear/clear coats to paint parts black with a compressor/ > spray gun system. Does anyone have a paint that they would recommend > for this system? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > ____________________________ From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 20 09:10:38 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:10:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Regulator References: <14E9EAC9-3E10-4BEF-AC32-B5A769E899D2@advocateadvisors.com> Message-ID: <001201cac847$e23f1a60$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Good time to think about an alternator change over. John Simms has a lot of good ideas on his site. ML ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "R. Price Lindsay" ; Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 10:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ 8 Regulator > Price - those aren't wires, they are resistors. Your VR is likely > maladjusted, but if you've smoked the resistors, probably a > replacement is in order. > > On 3/20/10, R. Price Lindsay wrote: >> Listers - >> >> I recently cleaned the engine compartment of my BJ 8 and noticed smoke >> coming from around the voltage regulator. I pulled it loose from the >> firewall and found the thick insulated green and red wires on the back >> were VERY hot. Is this normal? Any suggestions on what to do? >> >> Thanks >> >> Price Lindsay >> 67 BJ 8 >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 20 09:12:17 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:12:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] single stage BBQ Black References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> <18F015C1-2AE2-4527-AC24-E5B25E8BA04B@gmail.com> Message-ID: <001b01cac848$1d18b740$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> It actually works best in cooler , slightly moist environment. Strange stuff. ML ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Dimmock" To: "john spaur" Cc: Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 11:23 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] single stage BBQ Black > What parts John? > Have you tried brushing POR15? > Mainly for gloss black. > Awesome finish for a brushed paint. You can also spray it. Even at night, > when it's raining outside.... > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > P.S > No commercial interest... > Sent from my iPhone > > On 20/03/2010, at 1:38 PM, john spaur wrote: > >> I am still learning about paint and thought I could buy a single stage >> paint that would be close to the ubiquitous barbecue black; well that's >> not the case. >> >> What are other people using other than powder coating, rattle cans and >> base clear/clear coats to paint parts black with a compressor/ spray gun >> system. Does anyone have a paint that they would recommend for this >> system? >> >> Thank you, >> John Spaur >> '62 BT7 >> ____________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From rnbmail at yahoo.com Sat Mar 20 09:41:09 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 09:41:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] CA White Plate '65AHLY' Message-ID: <515157.20013.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Listers, I have decided to put my 65 3000 MkIII on CA Black Plates, and begining that process. As a result I expect that I will be required to turn in my current CA plate '65AHLY' - doubt they will let me keep it on hold. Therefore it should become available to another person - subject to DMV computers etc. If anyone in CA is interested in owning plate 65AHLY, I may be able to help them when I go to the DMV and execute my change. Contact me off list. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Mar 20 11:43:31 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 19:43:31 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <4BA51753.8080503@chello.nl> Did they also offer an auxillary SMITHS 2 or 3 hole dashpanel? If so use one, at least it is reversible. If not the fitting may have been intented somewhere in the dash. Ampere and oil temperature gauges are available new as replica's but there are plenty of original used and NOS items avalable in white letters on black dial. Black on silver may take some effort to find. Check for the mathing style with the original gauges already present. There are a lot of variations. Other period SMITHS gauges are outside temperature, volt/battery (if you have an alternator), clock, oil level, vacuum, fuel consumption, seatbelts. Kees Oudesluijs NL dwflagg schreef: > According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an Ammeter > and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does > anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or > using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. > > Doug From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sat Mar 20 11:51:17 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 11:51:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] CA White Plate '65AHLY' In-Reply-To: <515157.20013.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <515157.20013.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Robert, Hold on. Have you checked into this? Do you have the black plates that were assigned to your car back in 63? (Or was it 62?) You also have to have documented proof that those are the black plates that were assigned to the car. Something like a pink slip from back in the 70s, you know those old punch cards that they used to use or a copy at least. If you think you can just find some "clean" black plates and request to put them on your car, I think you are in for an unpleasant surprise from the California DMV. You can , though, put "year of Manufacture" plates on there with a sticker from the year of your car's first registration in California. Mike MacLean 60 Sprite (with black plates) 56 BN2 (with no plates yet, so they won't be black) On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Robert Blair wrote: > Listers, I have decided to put my 65 3000 MkIII on CA Black Plates, and > begining that process. As a result I expect that I will be required to > turn > in my current CA plate '65AHLY' - doubt they will let me keep it on hold. > Therefore it should become available to another person - subject to DMV > computers etc. > > If anyone in CA is interested in owning plate 65AHLY, I may be able to help > them when I go to the DMV and execute my change. Contact me off list. > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer at dslextreme.com From cleona44 at hotmail.com Sat Mar 20 12:38:27 2010 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:38:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wanted a Road and Track April 1958 Message-ID: I am interested in the Healey article the in April , 1958 issue of Road and Track. I do not have this issue in my Healey magazine collection. Plesae contact me off the list if you have a copy to sell or can scan a copy of the article to me. Thank you in advance - jim _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat Mar 20 13:39:25 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:39:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 on eBay In-Reply-To: <4BA4D35F.4080305@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100320153925.18XI4.605365.root@ispmxfep11-z02> Spin on oil filter wrong spark pulg wires Wrong VR Wrong cclamps on booster hoses head light rims not original choke know not original wrong valve cover and oil cap I think wrong air cleaners wrong choke cable sheaths wrong color on head wrong color on radiator heat shield has an alternator not generator wrong hose clamps no spare tire rod steel not copper pipes and more. ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= re: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280481160202 I have a hard time believing this car only has "56,092 miles." My BJ8, built in late 1966 and sold and registered in 1967 is an "unrestored" CA with over 165K miles, and overall is in much better (apparent) condition than this car. For instance: - the dash on this car appears much more weathered - the chrome trim on the dash appears more beat up - the wheel wells appear to be rusted inside. Mine were undercoated, but a lot of the undercoating has flaked off and the paint is in good shape (guess the undercoating worked well in this case) - what the h*ll happened to the interior? Carpeting missing, floorboards appear rusted, trim bolts and washers rusted, etc. - looks like a non-original distributor--why would anyone change the distributor on a low-mileage car? - non-original voltage regulator (Rich pointed this out). My car has the original VR, which is working fine - horns may have been messed with (my car's horn mounts are different) - engine bay overall appears much more aged and neglected - small panel with grommet that surrounds steering column is severely rusted - funky, non-original carpet in boot - hacked-up, non-original battery box (maybe a serious leak from the battery rusted out boot floor?) - looks like car was given Earl Schrieb paint job (rear bumper grommets appear painted over) I could go on, but, it sure appears that while the odometer might indicate 56K, this car has either been abused or has at least 156K miles (maybe the odometer quit working oh, say, 20 years ago?). Caveat emptor. bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Mar 20 14:21:30 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:21:30 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 on eBay In-Reply-To: <20100320153925.18XI4.605365.root@ispmxfep11-z02> References: <4BA4D35F.4080305@comcast.net> <20100320153925.18XI4.605365.root@ispmxfep11-z02> Message-ID: This is funny to me. Here's a car that is no longer made and is pretty darn desirable to many folks and here we are just nit picking the cotton picking thing to death. It's a pretty good project car or even a nice driver to a few. I'm confused. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 20 14:52:38 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 14:52:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Answer to - single stage BBQ Black In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100320144857.0206a288@pop.att.yahoo.com> The body shop painter uses SEM "Trim Black". Product #39144 in quarts and #39143 in spray cans. Matches BBQ Black perfectly. Thanks to all for the other paint types. John Spaur From shop at justbrits.com Sat Mar 20 15:42:57 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:42:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] The Answer to - single stage BBQ Black In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100320144857.0206a288@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100320144857.0206a288@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BA54F71.7040105@justbrits.com> << Thanks to all for the other paint types. >> Sorry that I am late in this John, but my preference would be Eastwood's "Chassis Black". Rattle can OR quart and can be thinned. I have things both on and off cars around here some of which are close to 10 years old and they look exactly like the day I shot them [which to me is GREAT]. A side benefit is that the stuff has a higher "paint" content which makes it harder. Neat stuff. On to Mr. Dimmock's glowing recommendation of POR 15. I will only relate an oft told story on the Spridgets List; and the fact that I proudly call the org. author a close & personal friend does not sway my opinion of it. Several years ago he "repaired" the floors in a Bugeye and Frank IS quite good at his body work and does NOT take 'shortcuts'. A year or so later after a drive to a local store and back as he coasted into his garage and came to a stop, he found himself AND the "painted" section of the floor sitting on the garage FLOOR. I personally will NEVER use to stuff on anything, neither for MY cars or customers' cars. A search of the Archives [ Spridgets ] on the Teamnet site [ link IS at bottom of every List post ] will give-up the original and plenty of other tales !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [currently has a number of Memorabilia For Sale !!] From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Mar 20 16:23:27 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 23:23:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 on eBay In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <458308239.16492481269127407484.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Guess I was too subtle. I think the mileage is misrepresented, which is unethical if not illegal. I would have no problem with "odometer indicates 56,092--actual mileage unknown," but this doesn't appear to be a 56K original miles car. I'd pay for a VIN search before I bought this car--if it was registered at some time in the past with more than 56K miles you'd have to assume it has at least 156K miles (if the odometer is working). Someone on this list indicated they were bidding on this car--I felt obliged to sound off. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA This is funny to me. Here's a car that is no longer made and is pretty darn desirable to many folks and here we are just nit picking the cotton picking thing to death. It's a pretty good project car or even a nice driver to a few. I'm confused. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 2:39 PM To: Bob Spidell; healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 on eBay Spin on oil filter wrong spark pulg wires Wrong VR Wrong cclamps on booster hoses head light rims not original choke know not original wrong valve cover and oil cap I think wrong air cleaners wrong choke cable sheaths wrong color on head wrong color on radiator heat shield has an alternator not generator wrong hose clamps no spare tire rod steel not copper pipes and more. From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Mar 20 16:28:18 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 16:28:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] CA White Plate '65AHLY' In-Reply-To: <515157.20013.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <515157.20013.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5caeedb51003201628p4331f470j963aba7376ff727d@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Robert Blair wrote: > > Listers, I have decided to put my 65 3000 MkIII on CA Black Plates, and > begining that process. As a result I expect that I will be required to turn > in my current CA plate '65AHLY' - doubt they will let me keep it on hold. I BELEIVE THAT YOU CAN KEEP IT ON HOLD BY PAYING A HOLDING FEE. MY WIFE DID THTA WITH HER PORSCHE PLATES "NOT RON'S" RON > 1965 bj8 = HEALY 65 (ca) From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sat Mar 20 16:39:21 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:39:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Suspension_of_Rear_Suspension_project_ov?= =?iso-8859-1?q?er_at_last!?= Message-ID: <20100320233921.26893.qmail@hoster902.com> Have posted pix of my completed rear suspension mods project in my gallery: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_rear_suspension It shows improved lower brackets to use extended SPAX shocks and replace the broken Cape lower units. In addition, the BJ8 radius arms are finally installed after 5 years. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 20 17:10:29 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:10:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Answer to - single stage BBQ Black In-Reply-To: <4BA54F71.7040105@justbrits.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100320144857.0206a288@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4BA54F71.7040105@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100320170531.02051ff0@pop.att.yahoo.com> SEM paint is a professional grade product which should be equal to or better than the Eastwood paint; lasts just as long according to my body shop painter. BTW, he specializes in Jaguar repair (don't flame me) and recently did some work on a Ferrari that sold for $29 mil. My experience with POR-15 is that it is a good product when used as directed. Which means the part can be rusted beyond it's design strength and the part that is treated with it should be fully encapsulated so that it can't continue to rust; like from the edges. Cheers, John At 05:42 PM 3/20/2010 -0500, Shop at \" Just Brits \" wrote: ><< Thanks to all for the other paint types. >> > >Sorry that I am late in this John, but my preference >would be Eastwood's "Chassis Black". Rattle can OR >quart and can be thinned. I have things both on and >off cars around here some of which are close to 10 >years old and they look exactly like the day I shot >them.... >....On to Mr. Dimmock's glowing recommendation of POR >15. I will only relate an oft told story.... From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat Mar 20 17:19:55 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 20:19:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 on eBay In-Reply-To: <458308239.16492481269127407484.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100320191955.07Z20.608325.root@ispmxfep11-z02> I think what "bothered" me is the description in the listing. No doubt it would make a nice project car, but the way it was advertised (hidden meaning), and the way it actually is doesn't coincide. At least to me. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Guess I was too subtle. I think the mileage is misrepresented, which is unethical if not illegal. I would have no problem with "odometer indicates 56,092--actual mileage unknown," but this doesn't appear to be a 56K original miles car. I'd pay for a VIN search before I bought this car--if it was registered at some time in the past with more than 56K miles you'd have to assume it has at least 156K miles (if the odometer is working). From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 20 18:09:48 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 09:09:48 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: Doug - Rich will know, but on the 100 I think they usually drilled a hole in the dash where the OD switch is. The OD switch would then be moved up and toward the steering wheel a bit... On 3/20/10, dwflagg wrote: > According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an Ammeter > and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does > anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or > using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. > > Doug > ____________________________________________________________ > Weight Loss Program > Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=8S_u_lqHRBtTPQdrlcGLrgAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEUgAAAAA= > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 20 18:15:05 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 09:15:05 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: I should be clear, I mean the dash part just above the end of the oval guage panel, toward the center of the car. On 3/21/10, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Doug - Rich will know, but on the 100 I think they usually drilled a > hole in the dash where the OD switch is. The OD switch would then be > moved up and toward the steering wheel a bit... > > On 3/20/10, dwflagg wrote: >> According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an Ammeter >> and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does >> anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or >> using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. >> >> Doug >> ____________________________________________________________ >> Weight Loss Program >> Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here! >> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=8S_u_lqHRBtTPQdrlcGLrgAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEUgAAAAA= >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sat Mar 20 19:01:38 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 19:01:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] CA White Plate '65AHLY' Message-ID: YOM is the key: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/about/lad/pdfs/yom/new_text.pdf They told me when I registered my Bugeye with the Black plates that I needed something like a prior registration to prove they were origially assigned to my car. may have been just an interpretation by my DMV branch. Mike MacLean From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Mar 20 19:13:41 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:13:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <6479A28B30B746A7B0C3DA1AA4FC444F@LIFEBOOK> Gentlemen, The Hundred was not equipped with an ammeter or gauges or switches other than the standard production ones as fitted stock. Therefore any extra instruments or gauges, switches, or whatever were positioned at the discretion of the owner or installer. They have often been observed fitted in many different positions, the holes of which we find today going to careful efforts to repair and fill in as if they'd never been added. To each their own. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Seigrist" Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 9:09 PM To: "dwflagg" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter > Doug - Rich will know, but on the 100 I think they usually drilled a > hole in the dash where the OD switch is. The OD switch would then be > moved up and toward the steering wheel a bit... > > On 3/20/10, dwflagg wrote: >> According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an Ammeter >> and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does >> anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or >> using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. >> >> Doug From shop at justbrits.com Sat Mar 20 19:14:06 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 21:14:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 on eBay In-Reply-To: <20100320191955.07Z20.608325.root@ispmxfep11-z02> References: <20100320191955.07Z20.608325.root@ispmxfep11-z02> Message-ID: <4BA580EE.6070105@justbrits.com> << At least to me. >> Ditto, Tom. Me From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Mar 20 19:18:57 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:18:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud upper rivets In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319230553.01fbfb60@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319230553.01fbfb60@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, Pop rivets were not used to fit the shroud to the rear hoop. They were flat head solid 1/8" shank rivets both into the rear hoop and to fasten the shroud to boot floor flange. All the rivets are described in the body section of the original workshop manuals. However 3/16" aluminum pop rivets were used elsewhere as detailed in the manuals. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john spaur" Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 2:10 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Shroud upper rivets > I took photos but the contrast washes out the detail !#??!!# > > Are pot rivets used to secure the shroud to the chassis hoop? > > 1/8" rivets? > > TIA, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > > "I really did take photographs!" > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sat Mar 20 19:53:13 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 02:53:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?ebay_bj8?= Message-ID: <20100321025313.30295.qmail@server278.com> i pay not attention to any odometer reading on a british car. angle drives are notorious for self-destructing and who wants to pull a tunnel to change on out right away. for years they were not available or hard to find, so owners like myself drove around without a speedometer, using the tach to gauge speed. also, it does not take a rocket scientist to pull the speedo, take the glass off, pull the needle off and remove the guts, where you can turn the dials on the odometer to what you want it to read. look at the wear on the car and that will tell you more than any speedo reading. my two cents worth. hjim From willig at wtnet.de Sun Mar 21 03:06:49 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 11:06:49 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <4BA51753.8080503@chello.nl> References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> <4BA51753.8080503@chello.nl> Message-ID: <008801cac8de$39293fe0$ab7bbfa0$@de> Please remember the 100 uses early 50's style bezel for their instruments. The only source I know for the original type oil temperature instrument, as used on the 100S is http://www.austin-healey.ch/4616_de.html I bought the oil temperature instrument from them for my BN2. The quality is outstanding! BUT..not cheap! If I remember correctly they ask around 400 USD. Fitting the Instrument to the 100 dash requires some careful measuring before you drill the mounting hole. Also you have to make sure that you need some free space under the dash behind the instrument. In my car the oil temperature instrument just about clears the demister outlets. Regards Thomas Willig -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Mdrz 2010 19:44 An: dwflagg Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Did they also offer an auxillary SMITHS 2 or 3 hole dashpanel? If so use one, at least it is reversible. If not the fitting may have been intented somewhere in the dash. Ampere and oil temperature gauges are available new as replica's but there are plenty of original used and NOS items avalable in white letters on black dial. Black on silver may take some effort to find. Check for the mathing style with the original gauges already present. There are a lot of variations. Other period SMITHS gauges are outside temperature, volt/battery (if you have an alternator), clock, oil level, vacuum, fuel consumption, seatbelts. Kees Oudesluijs NL dwflagg schreef: > According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an Ammeter > and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does > anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or > using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. > > Doug From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sun Mar 21 03:39:01 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 11:39:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <008801cac8de$39293fe0$ab7bbfa0$@de> References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com><4BA51753.8080503@chello.nl> <008801cac8de$39293fe0$ab7bbfa0$@de> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30121A952@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Thomas, At autojumbles in the UK you can find them regularly. Price below 80 Brit. Pound. It was/is always a bit more expensive to buy in Switzerland. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von T+ B Willig Gesendet: Sonntag, 21. Mdrz 2010 11:07 An: 'dwflagg' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Please remember the 100 uses early 50's style bezel for their instruments. The only source I know for the original type oil temperature instrument, as used on the 100S is http://www.austin-healey.ch/4616_de.html I bought the oil temperature instrument from them for my BN2. The quality is outstanding! BUT..not cheap! If I remember correctly they ask around 400 USD. Fitting the Instrument to the 100 dash requires some careful measuring before you drill the mounting hole. Also you have to make sure that you need some free space under the dash behind the instrument. In my car the oil temperature instrument just about clears the demister outlets. Regards Thomas Willig From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Mar 21 04:48:58 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 12:48:58 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30121A952@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com><4BA51753.8080503@chello.nl> <008801cac8de$39293fe0$ab7bbfa0$@de> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30121A952@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4BA607AA.30102@chello.nl> From my famous boxes of "old junk". I have some 50's, 60's and 70's style white on black SMITHS and Jaeger UK gauges and clocks as used on many British cars. I even may have some champagne colored dials, at least one clock and perhaps an oil temp or combined gauge, I am not sure. I also have a stack of new "full V" and "half V" chrome bezels so these can be fitted to suit. Most are the standard 52mm gauges but there is also a large amount of square and oblong stuff. The clocks are mainly diameter 52mm and 60mm, others are square or oblong I have hardly any speedo's, and only a few rev. counters. I do not think they match the Healey's, I think they are Jaguar, MGB, Triumph, Jensen, Singer, some with clock. It is a remainder of my collection of car clocks (from around 1910) and instruments. If there is any interest you can contact me off line. Include a picture of what you need or of the original instruments for matching up. Kees Oudesluijs NL From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun Mar 21 05:18:40 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 08:18:40 EDT Subject: [Healeys] SpringThing 2010 Message-ID: <104c7.27d17d14.38d768a0@aol.com> SpringThing 2010 Bourbon Trail...Round two. Join us May 13-16! With less than two months to go we have over 40 registrations from 9 states so register soon, space is limited! SpringThing 2010 will be an exciting journey through some of the most scenic Kentucky backroads. Enjoy the traditional historic homes and rolling hills while the Bourbon Trail and the Bluegrass Club does the rest. Our signature Hospitality suite will be overflowing the Bluegrass food and drink. Take a moment to enjoy the fun-loving Funkhana. On Friday take an opportunity to site-see or just relax around our host city, Lebanon. The town square is stocked with shops and watering holes or the countryside provides getaways just a short drive from the hotel...you decide! On Friday night the folks at Makerbs Mark Distillery have something special cooked up for us, literally. Feast on a traditional Kentucky barbeque dinner on the grounds of the historic distillery. Then take a private VIP tour and tasting topped off by your once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to dip your own Makerbs Mark souvenir bottle. All of this is included in the price of your banquet, just another way the Bluegrass Club works to bring fun, uniqueness and value to every part of SpringThing. On Saturday pack your bags and head...east! Webll venture across the Bluegrass our next location, where our host hotel is the historic, Boone Tavern. Located in beautiful Berea, this fully-renovated hotel provides first-class accommodations and restaurant. Be sure to leave plenty of time in your day to experience all the amazing shops and artists Berea has to offer. For more information visit bluegrassclub.com See you in May! The Bluegrass Club [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of RegistrationForm_10.pdf] From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sun Mar 21 05:55:01 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 13:55:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <20100321.051807.979.65985@mailpop08.dca.untd.com> References: <20100321.051807.979.65985@mailpop08.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30121A95F@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Doug, Autojumbles is not a company. In Uk its the name for "classic car part shows" like Beaulieu Autojumble, or Stoneleigh Restoration Show where many private people and professionals offer their parts. Josef -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: dwflagg [mailto:dwflagg at juno.com] Gesendet: Sonntag, 21. Mdrz 2010 13:17 An: Eckert, Josef Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Joseph, Do they have an English site? Thanks. Regards, Doug > Thomas, > At autojumbles in the UK you can find them regularly. Price below 80 > Brit. > Pound. > It was/is always a bit more expensive to buy in Switzerland. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von T+ B Willig > Gesendet: Sonntag, 21. Mdrz 2010 11:07 > An: 'dwflagg' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter > > Please remember the 100 uses early 50's style bezel for their > instruments. > The only source I know for the original type oil temperature > instrument, as used on the 100S is > http://www.austin-healey.ch/4616_de.html I bought the oil temperature > instrument from them for my BN2. The quality is outstanding! > BUT..not cheap! If I remember correctly they ask around 400 USD. > Fitting the Instrument to the 100 dash requires some careful measuring > before you drill the mounting hole. Also you have to make sure that > you need some free space under the dash behind the instrument. In my > car the oil temperature instrument just about clears the demister > outlets. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig From INSIDEDIM at aol.com Sun Mar 21 07:29:51 2010 From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 10:29:51 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Convertible top brackets # 2, BJ7/8 Message-ID: <7574d.5b5c40cd.38d7875f@aol.com> There are indeed many "benevolent listers" out there and I'll be sure to thank them one and all in the near future. I'm closing in on my bracket location problem and would ask for just a little more help before I start cutting, welding, patching - you all know the drill. 1. measurements from the top of the chrome surround to the top mating surface of the welded bracket 2. measurements from the front top inside corner of the bracket to one or more points on the firewall or dash Thanks in advance, Bill Ravin BJ8 29298 Farmington Hills, MI From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Mar 21 08:34:36 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 08:34:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Message-ID: <4ba63c8f.4902be0a.1d5b.1b64@mx.google.com> In the US we call them swap meets I Erbs sent from my PDA -----Original Message----- From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 5:55 AM To: dwflagg at juno.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Doug, Autojumbles is not a company. In Uk its the name for "classic car part shows" like Beaulieu Autojumble, or Stoneleigh Restoration Show where many private people and professionals offer their parts. Josef -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: dwflagg [mailto:dwflagg at juno.com] Gesendet: Sonntag, 21. Mdrz 2010 13:17 An: Eckert, Josef Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Joseph, Do they have an English site? Thanks. Regards, Doug > Thomas, > At autojumbles in the UK you can find them regularly. Price below 80 > Brit. > Pound. > It was/is always a bit more expensive to buy in Switzerland. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von T+ B Willig > Gesendet: Sonntag, 21. Mdrz 2010 11:07 > An: 'dwflagg' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter > > Please remember the 100 uses early 50's style bezel for their > instruments. > The only source I know for the original type oil temperature > instrument, as used on the 100S is > http://www.austin-healey.ch/4616_de.html I bought the oil temperature > instrument from them for my BN2. The quality is outstanding! > BUT..not cheap! If I remember correctly they ask around 400 USD. > Fitting the Instrument to the 100 dash requires some careful measuring > before you drill the mounting hole. Also you have to make sure that > you need some free space under the dash behind the instrument. In my > car the oil temperature instrument just about clears the demister > outlets. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Mar 21 08:47:44 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 11:47:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Message-ID: <20100321.084810.26198.168489@mailpop02.dca.untd.com> To clear up a misunderstanding, I am aware of autojumbles and was inquiring about an English version of the website mentioned as a source of instruments. Josef was kind enough to answer my question. Doug > In the US we call them swap meets > > I Erbs > sent from my PDA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com > Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 5:55 AM > To: dwflagg at juno.com; Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter > > Doug, > Autojumbles is not a company. In Uk its the name for "classic car > part shows" > like Beaulieu Autojumble, or Stoneleigh Restoration Show where many > private > people and professionals offer their parts. > > Josef > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: dwflagg [mailto:dwflagg at juno.com] > Gesendet: Sonntag, 21. Mdrz 2010 13:17 > An: Eckert, Josef > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter > > Joseph, > > Do they have an English site? Thanks. > > Regards, > > Doug > > > Thomas, > > At autojumbles in the UK you can find them regularly. Price below > 80 > > Brit. > > Pound. > > It was/is always a bit more expensive to buy in Switzerland. > > > > Josef Eckert > > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von T+ B > Willig > > Gesendet: Sonntag, 21. Mdrz 2010 11:07 > > An: 'dwflagg' > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter > > > > Please remember the 100 uses early 50's style bezel for their > > instruments. > > The only source I know for the original type oil temperature > > instrument, as used on the 100S is > > http://www.austin-healey.ch/4616_de.html I bought the oil > temperature > > instrument from them for my BN2. The quality is outstanding! > > BUT..not cheap! If I remember correctly they ask around 400 USD. > > Fitting the Instrument to the 100 dash requires some careful > measuring > > before you drill the mounting hole. Also you have to make sure > that > > you need some free space under the dash behind the instrument. In > my > > car the oil temperature instrument just about clears the demister > > outlets. > > > > Regards > > > > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > > ____________________________________________________________ Hotel Hotel pics, info and virtual tours. Click here to book a hotel online. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=-QlVCgmmPPiL8jasl4hJUQAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATRAAAAAA= From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Mar 21 08:53:54 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 11:53:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Splash Pan Message-ID: <20100321.085411.26198.168495@mailpop02.dca.untd.com> I have the splash pan for body number 11808. If this is for your car please contact me off the list. For Rich, please add this to your list if I have not already given you the information. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=0AeKlAxIwKV0usk99fIdZwAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA= From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Mar 21 09:01:34 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 12:01:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <20100321.084810.26198.168489@mailpop02.dca.untd.com> References: <20100321.084810.26198.168489@mailpop02.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <005e01cac90f$c8832210$59896630$@net> There are several flags on the home page of their site. Click on the British flag and you will get the English version of their site. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dwflagg Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 11:48 AM To: eyera3 at gmail.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter To clear up a misunderstanding, I am aware of autojumbles and was inquiring about an English version of the website mentioned as a source of instruments. Josef was kind enough to answer my question. Doug > > > > Gesendet: Sonntag, 21. Mdrz 2010 11:07 > > An: 'dwflagg' > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter > > > > Please remember the 100 uses early 50's style bezel for their > > instruments. > > The only source I know for the original type oil temperature > > instrument, as used on the 100S is > > http://www.austin-healey.ch/4616_de.html I bought the oil > temperature > > instrument from them for my BN2. The quality is outstanding! > > BUT..not cheap! If I remember correctly they ask around 400 USD. > > Fitting the Instrument to the 100 dash requires some careful > measuring > > before you drill the mounting hole. Also you have to make sure > that > > you need some free space under the dash behind the instrument. In > my > > car the oil temperature instrument just about clears the demister > > outlets. > > > > Regards From quenty at ntelos.net Sun Mar 21 10:35:57 2010 From: quenty at ntelos.net (Quentin Schweninger) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 13:35:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Answer to - single stage BBQ Black In-Reply-To: <4BA54F71.7040105@justbrits.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100320144857.0206a288@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4BA54F71.7040105@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <8D80BEB7-AEB8-437D-999C-FBBB2889A27E@ntelos.net> Ed, Gee this is great!!!! I can simply paint POR 15 on the rusted parts of my car and stand back and watch them fall off. Amazing!!! Dave On Mar 20, 2010, at 6:42 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote: << Thanks to all for the other paint types. >> Sorry that I am late in this John, but my preference would be Eastwood's "Chassis Black". Rattle can OR quart and can be thinned. I have things both on and off cars around here some of which are close to 10 years old and they look exactly like the day I shot them [which to me is GREAT]. A side benefit is that the stuff has a higher "paint" content which makes it harder. Neat stuff. On to Mr. Dimmock's glowing recommendation of POR 15. I will only relate an oft told story on the Spridgets List; and the fact that I proudly call the org. author a close & personal friend does not sway my opinion of it. Several years ago he "repaired" the floors in a Bugeye and Frank IS quite good at his body work and does NOT take 'shortcuts'. A year or so later after a drive to a local store and back as he coasted into his garage and came to a stop, he found himself AND the "painted" section of the floor sitting on the garage FLOOR. I personally will NEVER use to stuff on anything, neither for MY cars or customers' cars. A search of the Archives [ Spridgets ] on the Teamnet site [ link IS at bottom of every List post ] will give-up the original and plenty of other tales !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [currently has a number of Memorabilia For Sale !!] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/quenty at ntelos.net From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Mar 21 12:08:09 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 12:08:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Cheap Healey Project Message-ID: <662056.88590.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Someone needs to snap this up at $1,500 whether to keep it as a Nasty, restore to original or part out: http://www.jalopyjo urnal.com/ forum/showthread .php?t=337376&highlight=healey&page=5 No financial interest, etc. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From shop at justbrits.com Sun Mar 21 12:59:48 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 14:59:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Cheap Healey Project In-Reply-To: <662056.88590.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <662056.88590.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BA67AB4.6040003@justbrits.com> This one WORKS, Rick !! *http://tinyurl.com/ydnqtkr Anon * From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Mar 21 13:44:25 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 16:44:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sump bolts Message-ID: I have two silly questions about the small bolts that hold the sump on, so bear with me. What is the correct position for the two longer bolts? Should the special elongated washers be placed as if they have a spring action (they have a bow to them) , or should they sit the other way, without tension, the way they were when I took them off? Thanks, Stephen, BJ8 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Mar 21 13:46:26 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 16:46:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cheap Healey Project In-Reply-To: <4BA67AB4.6040003@justbrits.com> References: <662056.88590.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4BA67AB4.6040003@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Not for me, it doesn't , Ed. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 3:59 PM To: "HealeyRick" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheap Healey Project > This one WORKS, Rick !! > > *http://tinyurl.com/ydnqtkr > > Anon > * > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Mar 21 14:01:18 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 17:01:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sump bolts Message-ID: I think I pressed send too soon, and have figured out the placement of the washers, but would still like to know the location of the two longer bolts. Stephen, BJ8 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 21 14:11:48 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 14:11:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud upper rivets - concours question (just kidding) In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319230553.01fbfb60@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100321140520.0205c668@pop.att.yahoo.com> Thanks Rich! I never thought to look in the workshop manual. Actually I am the one that drilled them out and should have known they were solid... Duh! Now that I looked in the bodywork section I realize that my Healey will never be a concours car; I can't find "Stripolene 799, Howarth Blue Twill or Deoxidine 125" to properly prepare the metal! :-) At 10:18 PM 3/20/2010 -0400, Rich C wrote: >John, > >Pop rivets were not used to fit the shroud to the rear hoop. They >were flat head solid 1/8" shank rivets both into the rear hoop and >to fasten the shroud to boot floor flange. All the rivets are >described in the body section of the original workshop manuals. >However 3/16" aluminum pop rivets were used elsewhere as detailed in >the manuals. > >Rich From caddi5 at comcast.net Sun Mar 21 14:48:26 2010 From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 21:48:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] smiths clock Message-ID: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Gentlemen, how do I make a positive ground smiths clock work in my bn4 (which has been converted to neg. ground) any info. would be greatly appreciated .............thanks Mitch also who sells the best shut face finisher sets.. From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 21 15:25:17 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 06:25:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] smiths clock In-Reply-To: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Send it it Mike Eck of Jaguarclock.com. He does the conversion and also replaces the Smiths points with a Quartz replacement. The movements and function are all retained, the clock becomes VERY accuarate. He did my A90 clock and the two clocks in my Mk IX. Very satisfied. All the Jag people use him. On 3/22/10, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote: > Gentlemen, > > > how do I make a positive ground smiths clock work in my bn4 (which has been > converted to neg. ground) any info. would be greatly appreciated > .............thanks Mitch > also who sells the best shut face finisher sets.. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 21 15:30:13 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 06:30:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Sump bolts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The two longer bolts are put on the left side under each manifold drain pipe. Then there is a little bracket which attaches to the bolt to hold the drain pipes in place - actually quite importatnt to keep the copper pipes from work hardening and falling off. You can buy the little drain pipe brackets from the Nocks at BCS.... On 3/22/10, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I have two silly questions about the small bolts that hold the sump > on, so bear with me. > > What is the correct position for the two longer bolts? > Should the special elongated washers be placed as if they have a > spring action (they have a bow to them) , or should they sit the > other way, without tension, the way they were when I took them off? > > Thanks, > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From raymead at comcast.net Sun Mar 21 16:01:30 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 23:01:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? Message-ID: <1391556421.7439971269212490002.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> hello all Way back when i was just a pup, around 1963-65, I had an old beat up '56 Healey when I lived in San Antonio, Texas............B hung around with a sports car club in San Antonio named Checkpointer's Ltd........ As i remember the car, it didn't have a top, had Corvette taillights, strange grille, was in primer, needed an interior, and had a strange habit - the wiring would catch on fire on a whim................ IB can't even tell you who I sold it to......... Was wondering if anyone remembers that car???????????/ tks, ray From cbaustin at verizon.net Sun Mar 21 16:10:16 2010 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 19:10:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? In-Reply-To: <1391556421.7439971269212490002.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1391556421.7439971269212490002.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BA6A758.8010505@verizon.net> I remember the 'catching on fire' part - but I'm pretty sure that was my car! CB From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Mar 21 16:28:13 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 19:28:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] smiths clock In-Reply-To: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <861F9D314C504DB69F0A654F5952B021@LIFEBOOK> Mitch, For the shut face and threshold finisher sets, Kilmartin's are best and most accurate I've seen. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 5:48 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] smiths clock > Gentlemen, > > > how do I make a positive ground smiths clock work in my bn4 (which has > been converted to neg. ground) any info. would be greatly appreciated > .............thanks Mitch > also who sells the best shut face finisher sets.. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Mar 21 16:48:30 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 19:48:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sump bolts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <74CBC8228E7A406998997286D96ADDCE@LIFEBOOK> Steve, The oval sump washers should start out life being flat, not cupped. They become cupped by tightening down over the years. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Stephen Hutchings" Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 4:44 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Sump bolts > I have two silly questions about the small bolts that hold the sump on, so > bear with me. > > What is the correct position for the two longer bolts? > Should the special elongated washers be placed as if they have a spring > action (they have a bow to them) , or should they sit the other way, > without tension, the way they were when I took them off? > > Thanks, > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Mar 21 16:55:35 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 19:55:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cheap Healey Project In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100321185535.0N9GU.623507.root@ispmxfep11-z02> Worked for me. tom ---- Rich C wrote: ============= Not for me, it doesn't , Ed. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 3:59 PM To: "HealeyRick" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheap Healey Project > This one WORKS, Rick !! > > *http://tinyurl.com/ydnqtkr > > Anon > * > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Mar 21 17:19:57 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 17:19:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? Message-ID: <4ba6b7ad.0703c00a.6ff3.5c1d@mx.google.com> Sounds like old dog lucky. He had 3 legs and was blind I Erbs sent from my PDA -----Original Message----- From: raymead at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 4:01 PM To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? hello all Way back when i was just a pup, around 1963-65, I had an old beat up '56 Healey when I lived in San Antonio, Texas............B hung around with a sports car club in San Antonio named Checkpointer's Ltd........ As i remember the car, it didn't have a top, had Corvette taillights, strange grille, was in primer, needed an interior, and had a strange habit - the wiring would catch on fire on a whim................ IB can't even tell you who I sold it to......... Was wondering if anyone remembers that car???????????/ tks, ray _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From drmasucci at comcast.net Sun Mar 21 17:20:33 2010 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 20:20:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Splinded Hubs References: <20100321185535.0N9GU.623507.root@ispmxfep11-z02> Message-ID: <164D66DF3C5D4923A1920917907BB9B1@lab092908> Hi All, Does anyone have any comment on the quality of new splined hubs? Based on the price differences that I see, I'm wondering if anyone has seen significant differences in the quality of the product? For instance I have found prices for rear hubs ranging from a low of $79.95 each to a high of $149.95 each. The range for fronts is a low of $139.95 each to a high of $189.00 each. For a set of 4 that's a range of $439.80 to $677.90. Quite a difference. Does the quality vary significantly? Thanks, Dave BJ8 From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net Sun Mar 21 18:02:07 2010 From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (prittenhouse2 at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 20:02:07 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube Message-ID: <17310497.552989.1269219727496.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net> From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Mar 21 18:15:57 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 21:15:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sump bolts Message-ID: Thanks for the answers to my queries....I can testify that what Alan says about the copper drains falling off. is true..they WERE gone. Stephen, BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 21 18:23:52 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 09:23:52 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Sump bolts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: AHA! - Actually the pipes are an often over looked goody which helps keep your intake from drawing in too much air and fouling the idle settings. Also keeps gas from dropping on the exhaust pipes.... all healeys should run with these little copper pipes. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 9:15 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > Thanks for the answers to my queries....I can testify that what Alan says > about the copper drains falling off. is true..they WERE gone. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Mar 21 18:39:43 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 21:39:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs In-Reply-To: <164D66DF3C5D4923A1920917907BB9B1@lab092908> References: <20100321185535.0N9GU.623507.root@ispmxfep11-z02> <164D66DF3C5D4923A1920917907BB9B1@lab092908> Message-ID: <000301cac960$8c3ef4e0$a4bcdea0$@rr.com> Quality matters, at any price. I paid a well-known supplier near Baltimore $175 each for two new front splined hubs. One of them was apparently machined incorrectly in the bearing races and caused a rotor wobble and brake chirp that was only cured when I reinstalled my original splined hub with all the same parts otherwise. The supplier refused to acknowledge any responsibility for making it right, declined my repeated offers to send back the bad hub for inspection, inadvertently admitted to me in a cc e-mail to his supplier in the UK that there was at least one other like that sitting on his desk, and I ended up eating the cost after six months of fruitlessly trying to get him to do more than "try to get me a replacement from his supplier". I later cut the thing in half to use for a structural model. Cheap is not cheap if the quality is bad. But expensive does not necessarily guarantee quality, either. I would recommend you buy from someone who will stand behind their product if there is a problem with it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Masucci Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 8:21 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs Hi All, Does anyone have any comment on the quality of new splined hubs? Based on the price differences that I see, I'm wondering if anyone has seen significant differences in the quality of the product? For instance I have found prices for rear hubs ranging from a low of $79.95 each to a high of $149.95 each. The range for fronts is a low of $139.95 each to a high of $189.00 each. For a set of 4 that's a range of $439.80 to $677.90. Quite a difference. Does the quality vary significantly? Thanks, Dave BJ8 From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Mar 21 20:12:56 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 23:12:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? In-Reply-To: <1391556421.7439971269212490002.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1391556421.7439971269212490002.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CC9784B41CCF67-9AC-1D551@webmail-d029.sysops.aol.com> Ray's request reminds me of years gone by when I bought my BN2. Austin Healeys in some parts of the country were in very bad condition when they were only 10 years old as mine was. Although you could still buy a brand new shiny BJ8 in 1965, and I spent a lot of time sitting in the cars at the MG/AH dealership, the older cars were quickly being resigned to a resting spot on the side of the garage, usually outside in the elements. These days I'm grateful to be able to look at a preserved example that some brave soul has locked away in the gentler climes or very dry storage. I often joke with west coast folks that start restorations on rusty cars (read slight corrosion in the dog legs, original sills, floors and rocker panels in great shape) while some of us, in the salt ladened areas, be it deice material or ocean salt spray, have to repair every piece of steel in the lower 12 inches of the cars and sometimes higher. It has been a lot of fun over the last 45 years to be envolved in the little cars that Donald designed and built to maybe last the first 10 years. I'm glad they are still around. All the best Ray. I hope your old car shows up in some miraculous way at your doorstep. Wouldn't that be fun! Aloha Perry From shop at justbrits.com Sun Mar 21 20:35:19 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 22:35:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? In-Reply-To: <8CC9784B41CCF67-9AC-1D551@webmail-d029.sysops.aol.com> References: <1391556421.7439971269212490002.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <8CC9784B41CCF67-9AC-1D551@webmail-d029.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BA6E577.5050603@justbrits.com> From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sun Mar 21 21:25:09 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 21:25:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? In-Reply-To: <8CC9784B41CCF67-9AC-1D551@webmail-d029.sysops.aol.com> References: <1391556421.7439971269212490002.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <8CC9784B41CCF67-9AC-1D551@webmail-d029.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Hey! I'm in California and I had to replace the sills, floors, bottom of the rear frame rails, lower parts of the inner fenders, trunk floor, etc, etc. Not everyone on the west coast starts with a slightly rusty example. Mike Maclean 56 BN2 60 AN5 > I often joke with west coast folks that start restorations on > rusty cars (read slight corrosion in the dog legs, original sills, > floors and rocker panels in great shape) while some of us, in the salt > ladened areas, be it deice material or ocean salt spray, have to repair > every piece of steel in the lower 12 inches of the cars and sometimes > higher. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 22 01:49:57 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 09:49:57 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] smiths clock In-Reply-To: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BA72F35.7060004@chello.nl> Depends on the type. Some older clocks do not have a diode and can be used neg or pos ground. However it is more likely that the diode is there. In that case you can totally isolate the clock and connect up as intended, feed wire to the body, clock terminal to ground. You also have to fit a plastic back light holder to the clock body to isolate the light as this will be connected up to the rest of the dashboard lights. Alternative: get another clock for negative ground. Perhaps there are ways to convert to neg ground, but that is outside my knowledge. Perhaps one can remove the existing diode and fit a diode externally or replace it reversed? Always fit a 1A fuse in line with these clocks. They are very fragile. Often the contacts are spark corroded and need to be cleaned. Always start the clocks when the battery is reconnected. If they are connected up without running, the contacts will self destroy. Kees Oudesluijs NL caddi5 at comcast.net schreef: > Gentlemen, > > > how do I make a positive ground smiths clock work in my bn4 (which has been converted to neg. ground) any info. would be greatly appreciated .............thanks Mitch > also who sells the best shut face finisher sets.. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.791 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2761 - datum van uitgifte: 03/21/10 08:33:00 From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Mar 22 02:20:17 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 19:20:17 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] smiths clock In-Reply-To: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2099603823.4153621269208106648.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: G'day Mitch John Ostick of JDO Instrument repairs in the UK will do polarity change. I had my clock repaired/changed + earth to - earth by him. The old style points movement has a finite life (even John says he only expects about 3 years) I have a switch on mine and only run it when needed. You MUST reset the hands when you re-apply power though, as this restarts the movement - otherwise the points burn out. There's something to be said for the quartz replacement Alan suggests! Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 Holden V6 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 7:48 AM Subject: [Healeys] smiths clock > Gentlemen, > > > how do I make a positive ground smiths clock work in my bn4 (which has > been converted to neg. ground) any info. would be greatly appreciated > .............thanks Mitch > also who sells the best shut face finisher sets.. From seven3four at hotmail.com Mon Mar 22 05:06:30 2010 From: seven3four at hotmail.com (Alex Hope) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:36:30 +1030 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: My 3000 has a BMC Belguim VIN number plate riveted to the floor under the left hand seat and under the carpet. Is this a know feature ? Are theer others on the list that have this feature. Alex Hope Australia _________________________________________________________________ Browse profiles for FREE! Meet local singles online. http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/150855801/direct/01/ From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Mon Mar 22 05:37:33 2010 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 23:37:33 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <6479A28B30B746A7B0C3DA1AA4FC444F@LIFEBOOK> References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> <6479A28B30B746A7B0C3DA1AA4FC444F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <4BA7648D.7030700@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Rich C wrote: > Gentlemen, > > The Hundred was not equipped with an ammeter or gauges or switches > other than the standard production ones as fitted stock. Therefore any > extra instruments or gauges, switches, or whatever were positioned at > the discretion of the owner or installer. They have often been > observed fitted in many different positions, the holes of which we > find today going to careful efforts to repair and fill in as if they'd > never been added. To each their own. > >> g wrote: >> >>> According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an >>> Ammeter >>> and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does >>> anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or >>> using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. >>> > BLOKES My list says; 'Electric time piece - 4 UK Pound, 1 pound, 7shillings & 6 pence to fit Ameter - 15 Shillings & 6 pence and 1 Pound to fit Oil temp. gauge - 4 Pound, 5 shillings and 2 Pound 10 shillings to fit ' From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Mar 22 05:43:49 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 7:43:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100322074349.8JX28.656679.root@ispmxfep11-z01> You sure yours didn't come from the NE?:) ---- "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" wrote: ============= Hey! I'm in California and I had to replace the sills, floors, bottom of the rear frame rails, lower parts of the inner fenders, trunk floor, etc, etc. Not everyone on the west coast starts with a slightly rusty example. Mike Maclean 56 BN2 60 AN5 > I often joke with west coast folks that start restorations on > rusty cars (read slight corrosion in the dog legs, original sills, > floors and rocker panels in great shape) while some of us, in the salt > ladened areas, be it deice material or ocean salt spray, have to repair > every piece of steel in the lower 12 inches of the cars and sometimes > higher. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From warthodson at aol.com Mon Mar 22 07:35:12 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 10:35:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs In-Reply-To: <000301cac960$8c3ef4e0$a4bcdea0$@rr.com> References: <20100321185535.0N9GU.623507.root@ispmxfep11-z02><164D66DF3C5D4923A1920917907BB9B1@lab092908> <000301cac960$8c3ef4e0$a4bcdea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CC97E403739E59-1548-34DBB@Webmail-m108.sysops.aol.com> I had an experience with varying quality from one supplier very similar to Steve's. The quality seems to be very inconsistent. Make sure you can return the hubs for refund. I could not find any relationship between quality & price. Gary -----Original Message----- From: BJ8 Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: bighealey at msn.com Sent: Sun, Mar 21, 2010 8:39 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Splined Hubs Quality matters, at any price. I paid a well-known supplier near Baltimore 175 each for two new front splined hubs. One of them was apparently achined incorrectly in the bearing races and caused a rotor wobble and rake chirp that was only cured when I reinstalled my original splined hub ith all the same parts otherwise. The supplier refused to acknowledge any esponsibility for making it right, declined my repeated offers to send back he bad hub for inspection, inadvertently admitted to me in a cc e-mail to is supplier in the UK that there was at least one other like that sitting n his desk, and I ended up eating the cost after six months of fruitlessly rying to get him to do more than "try to get me a replacement from his upplier". I later cut the thing in half to use for a structural model. Cheap is not cheap if the quality is bad. But expensive does not ecessarily guarantee quality, either. I would recommend you buy from omeone who will stand behind their product if there is a problem with it. Steve Byers BJ8L/36666 J8 Registry avelock, NC USA ----Original Message----- rom: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] n Behalf Of David Masucci ent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 8:21 PM o: healeys at autox.team.net ubject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs Hi All, Does anyone have any comment on the quality of new splined hubs? Based on he price differences that I see, I'm wondering if anyone has seen ignificant differences in the quality of the product? For instance I have ound prices for rear hubs ranging from a low of $79.95 each to a high of 149.95 each. The range for fronts is a low of $139.95 each to a high of 189.00 each. For a set of 4 that's a range of $439.80 to $677.90. Quite a difference. oes the quality vary significantly? Thanks, ave BJ8 ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Mar 22 09:50:34 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 16:50:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 Message-ID: Guys Could anyone give me the postion of the pair of fasteners on each side of the healboard behind the front seats on a bj8 please. many thanks Andy _________________________________________________________________ Send us your Hotmail stories and be featured in our newsletter http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ From al at bighealey.org Mon Mar 22 10:15:45 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 13:15:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hidden Radio Antenna In-Reply-To: <11DE82D96C6C4C909F37CCC23E11E40A@computer> References: <006601cac530$305bb8e0$91132aa0$@org> <9baa446a1003161253s6e9867c7ifc020f3ca4045f25@mail.gmail.com> <11DE82D96C6C4C909F37CCC23E11E40A@computer> Message-ID: <003d01cac9e3$50889d10$f199d730$@org> Thanks! I might try them out... Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags at shaw.ca] Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5:21 PM To: jerry wall; Al Fuller Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hidden Radio Antenna Al / Jerry: http://www.ecshylites.com/page/page/603561.htm I've had one of these things sitting around - destined for my as yet uncompleted BJ8. Don't see why it won't work - I figured I'd simply throw it up under the dash somewhere - it needs to be 3/4" away from steel on one side, according to the instructions. Not expensive, and worth a try. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry wall" To: "Al Fuller" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 12:53 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hidden Radio Antenna al. i've been thinking about doing the same thing and had been considering using one of the short black composite antennas under the passenger outer sill. cheers, jerry On Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 12:43 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > All: Do any of you have experience with hidden or invisible radio > antennas? > I'm thinking about installing a AM/FM radio in my '62 BT-7, and want to > avoid drilling a hole for a conventional antenna. The car has already > been > converted to negative ground, and has an alternator, so I'm not concerned > about having enough electrons for this . > > > > I understand the hot rodders use these antennas, but I don't know anybody > personally - any experience here?? > > > > Al Fuller From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Mar 22 10:27:41 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 13:27:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7B8002C367E5467FAA2E89B70A2BEB14@LIFEBOOK> Andy, I have found that it's best to select the positions once you have the tonneau cover fitted in place with the tonneau bar. That way, any variables (and there are many) can be taken into account as you fit your particular tonneu cover to your car. They certainly seemed to vary on original cars and were not particularly level either. For instance the ones in this picture are in their original positions. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "andy pole" Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 12:50 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 > Guys > > > > Could anyone give me the postion of the pair of fasteners on each side of > the > healboard behind the front seats on a bj8 please. > > > > many thanks Andy > > _________________________________________________________________ > Send us your Hotmail stories and be featured in our newsletter > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Jan 07 022.jpg] From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Mar 22 12:03:35 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 19:03:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 In-Reply-To: <7B8002C367E5467FAA2E89B70A2BEB14@LIFEBOOK> References: , <7B8002C367E5467FAA2E89B70A2BEB14@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Rich and Ed I did think about waiting until I bought a new blue tonneau (someway off when I get the hood, and my old one is black) as I guess the position of the sockets on these can also vary, I just thought there may be a bit of give in the position. My car obviously had new heelboards Ed, and even though I took every position of all the floor fixings I never took these as I thought the metal was salvageable! I thought it may be easier to drill the holes with no carpet and also fix without the rear seats in place. Will be a sod to do when everything else is done. Nevermind trust your combined judgement as always. many thanks Andy > > I have found that it's best to select the positions once you have the > tonneau cover fitted in place with the tonneau bar. That way, any variables > (and there are many) can be taken into account as you fit your particular > tonneu cover to your car. They certainly seemed to vary on original cars and > were not particularly level either. > For instance the ones in this picture are in their original positions. > > Rich _________________________________________________________________ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Mar 22 12:27:43 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 19:27:43 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 In-Reply-To: <573c.4435423e.38d91a0a@aol.com> References: <573c.4435423e.38d91a0a@aol.com> Message-ID: Bill, it means you will drill the hole in the wrong place, snag the carpet meaning a new piece, snap the drill in the hole (being your only bit that size), get the chuck caught in you jumper arm, break your finger, trip over a spanner on the way out of door and land on your face etc etc. You guys across the pond . . . what the hell does "sod" mean? Bill  SOD'S LAW (noun) The noun SOD'S LAW has 1 sense: 1. humorous axiom stating that anything that can go wrong will go wrong as in Murphy's Law Got a cool Hotmail story? Tell us now _________________________________________________________________ Send us your Hotmail stories and be featured in our newsletter http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 22 12:49:37 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 20:49:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 In-Reply-To: References: <573c.4435423e.38d91a0a@aol.com> Message-ID: <4BA7C9D1.5000309@chello.nl> Idiot? Kees Oudesluijs NL andy pole schreef: > Bill, > it means you will drill the hole in the wrong place, snag the carpet meaning a > new piece, snap the drill in the hole (being your only bit that size), get the > chuck caught in you jumper arm, break your finger, trip over a spanner on the > way out of door and land on your face etc etc. > > > > > You guys across the pond . . . what the hell does "sod" mean? > > Bill > > > >  SOD'S LAW (noun) > The noun SOD'S LAW has 1 sense: > 1. humorous axiom stating that anything that can go wrong will go wrong > > as in Murphy's Law > > > > Got a cool Hotmail story? Tell us now > _________________________________________________________________ > Send us your Hotmail stories and be featured in our newsletter > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.791 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2763 - datum van uitgifte: 03/22/10 08:33:00 From willig at wtnet.de Mon Mar 22 14:01:53 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:01:53 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor Message-ID: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> After 30+ years of being separated from the chassis, I started the engine of my BN2 for the first time yesterday. The engine ran like a dream! BUT..the overhauled starter, which I bought many years ago in England, only managed to turn over the engine when I seduced him with a 24 volts out of two batteries! I fear that the starter is not the correct unit for the BN2. On its housing it says: M418G 25550A V174 12V. Can someone tell me if this is the right unit for my car please. Thanks Thomas Willig From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 22 14:21:12 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:21:12 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> Message-ID: <4BA7DF48.7030407@chello.nl> Sounds like faulty batteries, dirty or loose battery terminal clamps or a faulty starter relay. It could be the wrong starter motor but it is highlly unlikely that it would not turn over the engine at all at 12V. This starter motor was also used on TR4, MGB, Landrover, Jaguar, and other British cars and tractors. Plenty of power to turn over an A-H engine. Kees Oudesluijs NL T+ B Willig schreef: > After 30+ years of being separated from the chassis, I started the engine of > my BN2 for the first time yesterday. The engine ran like a dream! BUT..the > overhauled starter, which I bought many years ago in England, only managed > to turn over the engine when I seduced him with a 24 volts out of two > batteries! > > I fear that the starter is not the correct unit for the BN2. On its housing > it says: M418G 25550A V174 12V. Can someone tell me if this is the right > unit for my car please. > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.791 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2763 - datum van uitgifte: 03/22/10 08:33:00 From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Mar 22 15:06:39 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 15:06:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> Message-ID: <751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com> The correct starter for your LUCAS Part No. *25521B/D*, Model No. M418G, 12V. The LUCAS starter on your car (LUCAS Part No. 25550A) is listed as being from a Vanguard engined 1959-1960 Morgan "Plus Four" as per my LUCAS 400 Series Master Parts Catalog 1945-1960. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 2:01 PM, T+ B Willig wrote: > After 30+ years of being separated from the chassis, I started the engine > of > my BN2 for the first time yesterday. The engine ran like a dream! BUT..the > overhauled starter, which I bought many years ago in England, only managed > to turn over the engine when I seduced him with a 24 volts out of two > batteries! > > I fear that the starter is not the correct unit for the BN2. On its housing > it says: M418G 25550A V174 12V. Can someone tell me if this is the right > unit for my car please. > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From grday at btinternet.com Mon Mar 22 15:40:40 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:40:40 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 References: <573c.4435423e.38d91a0a@aol.com> Message-ID: <5D0F3782ECA34FEE877E37A3DE34582C@user8634b3d69b> Bill & Andy. Andy has given the version that was meant but 'Sod' has a wonderful rich varied load of meanings that Andy hasn't touched on. Sod - a clump of earth usually with grass attached. Sod - an area of ground ie. 'The old sod', meaning a homeland He is a Sod - meaning the person is one who does things to harm others or does miscreant things. ie You lend a friend a spanner but he ruins it by hitting it with a hammer, bending and marking it. A Sod of a thing - something that will be hard to deal with, such as stretching a tonneau cover to make it fit when cold or tightening an exhaust manifold clamp whilst the engine is running! Oh Sod it! - Something has gone wrong so many times you give up on the attempt. Sod Off - a marginally politer version of 'go away' (f***) off. You dirty old Sod - said to a buddy who tells you he went off with a hooker. Ooooh! You Sod - An expression of endearment to a loved one as she does something exquisitely naughty such as nibbling instead of licking (your ice cream cone!). There is Sod - It is a 'sod' of a thing. ie it is something that Andy Pole said, the nut that gets cross threaded, the hacksaw blade that breaks, the watch that keeps on stopping. There is Sod - 'Sod's law' Again as Andy said, if a thing can go wrong it will go wrong, the toast lands butter side down when it slips off the plate, the Champagne spurts everywhere when wearing the new tux, never the old suit. Similar to Murphy's Law. It is a word to wax lyrical over, to place feeling into as you utter it, you can bark it out, say is slowly, shout it and say it lovingly but it is normally a word of despair that can occasionally be used elsewhere. Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "andy pole" Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 7:27 PM Subject: [Healeys] FW: healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 > Bill, > it means you will drill the hole in the wrong place, snag the carpet > meaning a > new piece, snap the drill in the hole (being your only bit that size), get > the > chuck caught in you jumper arm, break your finger, trip over a spanner on > the > way out of door and land on your face etc etc. > > > > > You guys across the pond . . . what the hell does "sod" mean? > > Bill > > > >  SOD'S LAW (noun) > The noun SOD'S LAW has 1 sense: > 1. humorous axiom stating that anything that can go wrong will go wrong > > as in Murphy's Law From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Mar 22 15:42:40 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 15:42:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <751d05481003221542x3fdda239sbe53af1eab8dcfb0@mail.gmail.com> Alex, ...and my Healey had a old flatted beer can riveted to the floor under the left hand seat and under the carpet covering a rusted out hole :-) Just kidding. I would be interested in seeing a picture of this if you think it's original. I've never heard of this but who knows... it's worth documenting in case we see it again. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 5:06 AM, Alex Hope wrote: > My 3000 has a BMC Belguim VIN number plate riveted to the floor under the > left > hand seat and under the carpet. > > > > Is this a know feature ? Are there others on the list that have this > feature. > > > > Alex Hope > > Australia > > _________________________________________________________________ > Browse profiles for FREE! Meet local singles online. > http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/150855801/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Mar 22 16:02:07 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 07:02:07 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Alex - Austin Healeys sold to California had a plastic BMC tag with model year attached to the bulkhead. If Belgium had a non-standard VIN plate regulation, then the dealer pobably would have done this. You should send a picture to the AH Concours committee. Alan On 3/22/10, Alex Hope wrote: > My 3000 has a BMC Belguim VIN number plate riveted to the floor under the > left > hand seat and under the carpet. > > > > Is this a know feature ? Are theer others on the list that have this > feature. > > > > Alex Hope > > Australia > > _________________________________________________________________ > Browse profiles for FREE! Meet local singles online. > http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/150855801/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Mar 22 16:42:36 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 19:42:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 In-Reply-To: References: , <7B8002C367E5467FAA2E89B70A2BEB14@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <5B7C77919155400AA48E96DC60F1AA1A@LIFEBOOK> Andy, I recently installed these fasteners into a BJ8 once the carpets and rear seats had been installed. I had the car up on 4 sturdy axle stands with the wheels off. The tonneau cover was final fitted complete with the tonneau bar assembly. The tonneau was folded under to allow the snap down flaps to be pulled down evenly so chalk marks could be established for where the Lift-a-Dot studs need to be fitted. Then for cutting through the carpet, I use a small 3/16" diameter hole punch and chucked it into a drill. This makes the ideal clean hole through the carpet, and can be finished off by using a 3/16" drill bit to complete the hole through the heel board. I had a spotter on the inside (axle cavity area) to make sure I wasn't going to go through a fuel line or wiring harness component. All worked out very well and when I placed the male Lift-a-Dot stud through the hole, a helper working from in the axle cavity ran on the locking washer and nut, tighening all. I also use a small hole punch chucked in my electric drill to cleanly cut through carpet underlay and the underfelt paper when installing the male carpet snaps into the floors, etc. Nothing to catch and twist up, nothing to unravel, just a clean hole through the materials. Rich From: andy pole Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 3:03 PM To: Rich C ; healeys at autox.team.net ; shop at justbrits.com Subject: RE: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 Rich and Ed I did think about waiting until I bought a new blue tonneau (someway off when I get the hood, and my old one is black) as I guess the position of the sockets on these can also vary, I just thought there may be a bit of give in the position. My car obviously had new heelboards Ed, and even though I took every position of all the floor fixings I never took these as I thought the metal was salvageable! I thought it may be easier to drill the holes with no carpet and also fix without the rear seats in place. Will be a sod to do when everything else is done. Nevermind trust your combined judgement as always. many thanks Andy > > I have found that it's best to select the positions once you have the > tonneau cover fitted in place with the tonneau bar. That way, any variables > (and there are many) can be taken into account as you fit your particular > tonneu cover to your car. They certainly seemed to vary on original cars and > were not particularly level either. > For instance the ones in this picture are in their original positions. > > Rich ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Not got a Hotmail account? Sign-up now - Free From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 22 16:42:55 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 16:42:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook Message-ID: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other Healey enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered by all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing all of the common connections we share. I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook profiles? This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm just wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club or this List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your thoughts. Cheers, Carlos From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Mar 22 17:06:13 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:06:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Carlos - My view is the list is MUCH better than Facebook for our hobby. I have a couple hundred friends on my FB and, well, I get so much random FB garbage every day that I would not want to have to wade through the Farmville BS just to find my Healey posts. That aside, I suppose it can help promote our hobby to the uninitiated. Maybe we make a "fix my healey" FB application just to add to all the garbage in the FB universe. Alan On 3/23/10, Carlos Cruz wrote: > Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, > > If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other Healey > enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered by > all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing all > of the common connections we share. > > I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook profiles? > This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm just > wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club or this > List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your > thoughts. > > Cheers, > Carlos > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 22 17:14:02 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 19:14:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? Message-ID: <4BA807CA.5070604@justbrits.com> << I hope your old car shows up in some miraculous way at your doorstep. >> Like I could wish for my 1st, new off show-room floor 1962 Frogeye, Perry ?!? Yes I KNOW there were NO 1962 Frogeyes [except MINE] !!! I bought her on 2/14/62 so it WAS a '62 !! I would be RICH, I say RICH, I say RICH, I tell you, RICH !!!!! Ed PS: My thanks to Foghorn Leghorn !!! LOL !! From drmasucci at comcast.net Mon Mar 22 17:52:16 2010 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 20:52:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs References: <20100321185535.0N9GU.623507.root@ispmxfep11-z02><164D66DF3C5D4923A1920917907BB9B1@lab092908><000301cac960$8c3ef4e0$a4bcdea0$@rr.com> <8CC97E403739E59-1548-34DBB@Webmail-m108.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <3D79A7E4C7D141DC90E77186D021BCCE@lab092908> My reasons for questioning the quality of the hubs relates more to the wear characteristics of the splines. If the metal is not of proper hardness, the splines could wear prematurely. The problem with this is by the time you knew the hubs where not right, the hub and the wheel would be junk. Dave BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:35 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Splined Hubs >I had an experience with varying quality from one supplier very similar to > Steve's. The quality seems to be very inconsistent. Make sure you can > return > the hubs for refund. I could not find any relationship between quality & > price. > Gary > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: BJ8 Healeys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Cc: bighealey at msn.com > Sent: Sun, Mar 21, 2010 8:39 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Splined Hubs > > > Quality matters, at any price. I paid a well-known supplier near > Baltimore > 175 each for two new front splined hubs. One of them was apparently > achined incorrectly in the bearing races and caused a rotor wobble and > rake chirp that was only cured when I reinstalled my original splined hub > ith all the same parts otherwise. The supplier refused to acknowledge any > esponsibility for making it right, declined my repeated offers to send > back > he bad hub for inspection, inadvertently admitted to me in a cc e-mail to > is supplier in the UK that there was at least one other like that sitting > n his desk, and I ended up eating the cost after six months of fruitlessly > rying to get him to do more than "try to get me a replacement from his > upplier". I later cut the thing in half to use for a structural model. > Cheap is not cheap if the quality is bad. But expensive does not > ecessarily guarantee quality, either. I would recommend you buy from > omeone who will stand behind their product if there is a problem with it. > Steve Byers > BJ8L/36666 > J8 Registry > avelock, NC USA > > ----Original Message----- > rom: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > n Behalf Of David Masucci > ent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 8:21 PM > o: healeys at autox.team.net > ubject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs > Hi All, > Does anyone have any comment on the quality of new splined hubs? Based on > he price differences that I see, I'm wondering if anyone has seen > ignificant differences in the quality of the product? For instance I have > ound prices for rear hubs ranging from a low of $79.95 each to a high of > 149.95 each. The range for fronts is a low of $139.95 each to a high of > 189.00 each. > For a set of 4 that's a range of $439.80 to $677.90. Quite a difference. > oes the quality vary significantly? > Thanks, > ave > BJ8 From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Mar 22 18:19:40 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 20:19:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs In-Reply-To: <3D79A7E4C7D141DC90E77186D021BCCE@lab092908> Message-ID: <20100322201940.FL7PK.656459.root@ispmxfep11-z02> Not to long ago I got two VERY poor quality ones from a well known mid west supplier. After a fight sent them back for a money-back refund. Ordered two VERY good quality ones from a well known east coast supplier. tom ---- David Masucci wrote: ============= My reasons for questioning the quality of the hubs relates more to the wear characteristics of the splines. If the metal is not of proper hardness, the splines could wear prematurely. The problem with this is by the time you knew the hubs where not right, the hub and the wheel would be junk. Dave BJ8 From insptwo at msn.com Mon Mar 22 19:04:41 2010 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:04:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: As far as facebook is concerned, unless you manually stop it, once you join facebook, it automatically goes into your email contacts and sends an invitation to everyone to be your friend. Bill BJ7 > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:06:13 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook > > Carlos - > > My view is the list is MUCH better than Facebook for our hobby. I > have a couple hundred friends on my FB and, well, I get so much random > FB garbage every day that I would not want to have to wade through the > Farmville BS just to find my Healey posts. > > That aside, I suppose it can help promote our hobby to the > uninitiated. Maybe we make a "fix my healey" FB application just to > add to all the garbage in the FB universe. > > Alan > > On 3/23/10, Carlos Cruz wrote: > > Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, > > > > If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other Healey > > enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered by > > all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing all > > of the common connections we share. > > > > I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook profiles? > > This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm just > > wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club or this > > List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your > > thoughts. > > > > Cheers, > > Carlos From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 22 19:41:38 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 21:41:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] The Answer to - single stage BBQ Black In-Reply-To: <000401cac91c$0d8c0d70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com><6.2.3.4.2.20100320144857.0206a288@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4BA54F71.7040105@justbrits.com> <000401cac91c$0d8c0d70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4BA82A62.5030302@justbrits.com> Folks, yesterday early afternoon Mark LaPierre asked me in a P.M.: << Ed , What is the Chassis Black coating? Is it a rust converter, encapsulate or just a good paint. I have seen it advertised in the Eastwood catalog but haven't tried it yet . I thought it was just another encapsulate like Por 15. >> and as I thought more of you might like the answers to his questions, I asked him if it would be OK to answer to the List and I just got his OK, so............. "Chassis Black" IS a paint and NOT an encapsulate. IIRC comes in two versions; Regular & Extreme which is designed for chassis use whereas the Regular is GREAT for all other pieces that normally would be black. And it is VERY 'black'. You would have to have two [2] items side-by-side to see what I mean. It IS "Epoxy Hardened", chip resistant and has a HIGH Solids Content. Can says up to three [3] times the coverage and I would pretty much have to agree with it. Re-coating is only recommended with in 20 - 30 minutes. Comes in 15oz aerosols and quarts; Gloss & Satin. I can tell you the stuff IS hard as nails as I have tried [accidentally of course ] to chip it that I have painted. I have used with & without primer. I LOVE it !! Ed PS: And the Owner of the Company IS a LBCer although I forgive him for being a MG person !!! He IS the reason the Eastwood has a MG Engine Paint !! PPS: Tnx, Mark. From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Mar 22 19:56:02 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 02:56:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?splined_hubs?= Message-ID: <20100323025602.7531.qmail@server278.com> i have purchased 4 or 5 hub sets in the last few years for club members and have noticed that they now come painted black instead of plated like before. are they from different suppliers or is that just the new thing to do? cannot seem to find any difference in quality, but have had no problems so far. hjim From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 22 20:14:02 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:14:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] splined hubs In-Reply-To: <20100323025602.7531.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100323025602.7531.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4BA831FA.1020801@justbrits.com> << noticed that they now come painted black instead of plated like before. >> My last set about a month ago was plated, Jim ?!?!? Ed PS: And apparently GOOD quality Dave, if you would like .........a price. I would use on MY car. And THAT is the ........."yardstick" I use for Customers. From 55healey at comcast.net Mon Mar 22 20:18:43 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 20:18:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <4BA7648D.7030700@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> <6479A28B30B746A7B0C3DA1AA4FC444F@LIFEBOOK> <4BA7648D.7030700@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <1CD7CF9E-0EE2-4CF5-AC17-07B51CDCAD7B@comcast.net> I mounted my ammeter in it's little chrome bracket on the left forward part of the parcel shelf. It is in perfect line of sight for the driver but most passerby's don't even notice it's there. Send me a note and I can send pics. Rob On Mar 22, 2010, at 5:37 AM, Joe and Lenore Armour wrote: > Rich C wrote: > >> Gentlemen, >> >> The Hundred was not equipped with an ammeter or gauges or switches >> other than the standard production ones as fitted stock. Therefore >> any extra instruments or gauges, switches, or whatever were >> positioned at the discretion of the owner or installer. They have >> often been observed fitted in many different positions, the holes >> of which we find today going to careful efforts to repair and fill >> in as if they'd never been added. To each their own. >> >>> g wrote: >>> >>>> According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an >>>> Ammeter >>>> and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. >>>> Does >>>> anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the >>>> dash or >>>> using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. From mslechta at chartermi.net Mon Mar 22 20:34:26 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:34:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: <43C11E6E875B42B8A542C62F1F84B575@MikesLaptop> I don't think so. Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: insptwo at msn.com To: healey help Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 9:04 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook As far as facebook is concerned, unless you manually stop it, once you join facebook, it automatically goes into your email contacts and sends an invitation to everyone to be your friend. Bill BJ7 > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:06:13 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook > > Carlos - > > My view is the list is MUCH better than Facebook for our hobby. I > have a couple hundred friends on my FB and, well, I get so much random > FB garbage every day that I would not want to have to wade through the > Farmville BS just to find my Healey posts. > > That aside, I suppose it can help promote our hobby to the > uninitiated. Maybe we make a "fix my healey" FB application just to > add to all the garbage in the FB universe. > > Alan > > On 3/23/10, Carlos Cruz wrote: > > Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, > > > > If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other Healey > > enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered by > > all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing all > > of the common connections we share. > > > > I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook profiles? > > This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm just > > wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club or this > > List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your > > thoughts. > > > > Cheers, > > Carlos _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Mon Mar 22 21:09:05 2010 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 21:09:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] splined hubs In-Reply-To: <20100323025602.7531.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <847551.50904.qm@web110205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Could be that you have the new cathodic electro coated splined hubs check it out on the mws site: http://www.mwsint.com/Products/ViewNews.asp?NewsId=1536 I don't see an option in their online shop section to choose this option or regular plated hubs Bert --- On Tue, 3/23/10, healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: > From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net > Subject: [Healeys] splined hubs > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Date: Tuesday, March 23, 2010, 3:56 AM > i have purchased 4 or 5 hub sets in > the last few years for club members and have noticed that > they now come painted black instead of plated like > before. are they from different suppliers > or is that just the new thing to do? cannot seem to > find any difference in quality, but have had no problems so > far. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Mar 22 21:38:36 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 21:38:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: <43C11E6E875B42B8A542C62F1F84B575@MikesLaptop> References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <43C11E6E875B42B8A542C62F1F84B575@MikesLaptop> Message-ID: <173126441003222138g68480f4crf51ba9e8adcab5d@mail.gmail.com> It only sends emails out if you unwittingly sign up to do so, when searching for a freind On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 8:34 PM, Mike Slechta wrote: > I don't think so. Mad Mike > ----- Original Message ----- > From: insptwo at msn.com > To: healey help > Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 9:04 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook > > > As far as facebook is concerned, unless you manually stop it, once you > join > facebook, it automatically goes into your email contacts and sends an > invitation to everyone to be your friend. > > Bill > > BJ7 > > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:06:13 +0800 > > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > > To: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook > > > > Carlos - > > > > My view is the list is MUCH better than Facebook for our hobby. I > > have a couple hundred friends on my FB and, well, I get so much random > > FB garbage every day that I would not want to have to wade through the > > Farmville BS just to find my Healey posts. > > > > That aside, I suppose it can help promote our hobby to the > > uninitiated. Maybe we make a "fix my healey" FB application just to > > add to all the garbage in the FB universe. > > > > Alan > > > > On 3/23/10, Carlos Cruz wrote: > > > Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, > > > > > > If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other > Healey > > > enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered > by > > > all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing > all > > > of the common connections we share. > > > > > > I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook > profiles? > > > This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm > just > > > wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club > or > this > > > List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your > > > thoughts. > > > > > > Cheers, > > > Carlos > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Tue Mar 23 05:40:23 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:40:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: I joined that group and it doesn't post anything to my FB page. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you have to actively go to the group page to see what's there? I'm not a big user of FB and prior to this, haven't advertized my use of it. I thought that the group site might be a logical place for people to post pictures, instead of posting them to this list, where they get dropped and leave the rest of us wanting. I wouldn't want it to replace this list, but I can see where it might augment it. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > Carlos - > > My view is the list is MUCH better than Facebook for our hobby. I > have a couple hundred friends on my FB and, well, I get so much random > FB garbage every day that I would not want to have to wade through the > Farmville BS just to find my Healey posts. > > That aside, I suppose it can help promote our hobby to the > uninitiated. Maybe we make a "fix my healey" FB application just to > add to all the garbage in the FB universe. > > Alan > > On 3/23/10, Carlos Cruz wrote: > > Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, > > > > If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other Healey > > enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered by > > all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing all > > of the common connections we share. > > > > I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook profiles? > > This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm just > > wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club or this > > List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your > > thoughts. > > > > Cheers, > > Carlos From warthodson at aol.com Tue Mar 23 06:13:36 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 09:13:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 In-Reply-To: <5B7C77919155400AA48E96DC60F1AA1A@LIFEBOOK> References: , <7B8002C367E5467FAA2E89B70A2BEB14@LIFEBOOK> <5B7C77919155400AA48E96DC60F1AA1A@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <8CC98A1C7CB533C-1A9C-C63C@webmail-d039.sysops.aol.com> Rich, That is a great tip. Thanks for sharing it. Gary Hodson I also use a small hole punch chucked in my electric drill to cleanly cut hrough carpet underlay and the underfelt paper when installing the male arpet snaps into the floors, etc. Nothing to catch and twist up, nothing to nravel, just a clean hole through the materials. From logical2 at hotmail.com Tue Mar 23 06:17:36 2010 From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 13:17:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs Message-ID: New wheels and KO's on my BJ7. I've seen wooden wrenches, metal wrenches and of course hammers. What's the best way to tighten them without marking or scratching them but also of course also making sure they're tight enough? Thanks for the help and suggestions. 62 BJ7 61 Bugeye 69 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ From twillig at ruda.de Tue Mar 23 06:33:48 2010 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 14:33:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: <751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com> References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> <751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Curt, many thanks for this info. Does the list give more technical details of the starter ...like hp? I wonder if Lucas had a starter which had more power than 25521B. Many owners convert to the modern gear-reduction starters, which sounds terrible to me, because they do not trust the limited output of the 100 starter. Maybe there is a starter in the list which would look original, while having more cranking power. Regards Thomas Willig From ah3000me at gmail.com Tue Mar 23 06:37:28 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 09:37:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Lots of 20-somethings and 30-somethings love facebook. It's probably a very good place to do Future-50 work. - tom On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 7:42 PM, Carlos Cruz wrote: > Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, > > If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other Healey enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered by all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing all of the common connections we share. > > I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook profiles? This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm just wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club or this List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your thoughts. > > Cheers, > Carlos > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Mar 23 06:39:15 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:39:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The wooden ones are the best for minimizing marks. With the increased lever arm of the wooden ones, they can get sufficiently tight. On 3/23/10, Frank Edwards wrote: > New wheels and KO's on my BJ7. > > I've seen wooden wrenches, metal wrenches and of course hammers. > > What's the best way to tighten them without marking or scratching them but > also of course also making sure they're tight enough? > > > > Thanks for the help and suggestions. > > > > 62 BJ7 > > 61 Bugeye > > 69 Midget > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Tue Mar 23 06:41:26 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 06:41:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] old beat up '56 Healey in San Antonio back in the mid 60s????????? In-Reply-To: <20100322074349.8JX28.656679.root@ispmxfep11-z01> References: <20100322074349.8JX28.656679.root@ispmxfep11-z01> Message-ID: It does not matter where these cars come from, they will eventually rust!. Mike MacLean On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 5:43 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > You sure yours didn't come from the NE?:) > > > ---- "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" wrote: > > ============= > Hey! I'm in California and I had to replace the sills, floors, bottom of > the > rear frame rails, lower parts of the inner fenders, trunk floor, etc, etc. > Not everyone on the west coast starts with a slightly rusty example. > Mike Maclean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > > > > > > I often joke with west coast folks that start restorations on > > rusty cars (read slight corrosion in the dog legs, original sills, > > floors and rocker panels in great shape) while some of us, in the salt > > ladened areas, be it deice material or ocean salt spray, have to repair > > every piece of steel in the lower 12 inches of the cars and sometimes > > higher. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Mar 23 06:56:10 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 09:56:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004b01caca90$97dd8920$c7989b60$@rr.com> Hi, Frank - Never hit the knockoffs directly with any hammer, lead or otherwise. Rather, use a scrap piece of 2 x 4 against the knockoff ear and hit that. For long-term durability of the wood, use oak. The wood also does not beat up the hammer and is cheaper than a new hammer or new knockoff. Tighten the knockoff until it does not move with a reasonable blow with the hammer, with the weight of the car off the wheel. After lowering the wheel off the jack, give the knockoff another blow to make sure it doesn't move. You don't have to pound hell out of them to start with because they will tighten naturally as you drive the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Edwards Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 9:18 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs New wheels and KO's on my BJ7. I've seen wooden wrenches, metal wrenches and of course hammers. What's the best way to tighten them without marking or scratching them but also of course also making sure they're tight enough? Thanks for the help and suggestions. 62 BJ7 61 Bugeye 69 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Mar 23 06:59:47 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 14:59:47 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> <751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BA8C953.9070404@chello.nl> Thomas, Unless you have a very high compression (modified) engine there should be no need at all for a stronger starter motor. The same motor can crank an E-type Jaguar. If it cranks to slow something is amiss (brushes, contacts, solenoid, battery terminals etc.). The gear reduction starter motors are in fact much better as they consume a lot less current and thus can save the battery in the long run. Kees Oudesluijs Thomas Willig schreef: > Hi Curt, > > many thanks for this info. Does the list give more technical details of > the starter ...like hp? I wonder if Lucas had a starter which had more > power than 25521B. Many owners convert to the modern gear-reduction > starters, which sounds terrible to me, because they do not trust the > limited output of the 100 starter. Maybe there is a starter in the list > which would look original, while having more cranking power. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.791 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2765 - datum van uitgifte: 03/23/10 08:33:00 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Mar 23 07:04:38 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 10:04:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: <4BA8C953.9070404@chello.nl> References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> <751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com> <4BA8C953.9070404@chello.nl> Message-ID: <009701caca91$c71e4980$555adc80$@net> Or another common missing piece is the engine ground strap. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:00 AM To: Thomas Willig Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor Thomas, Unless you have a very high compression (modified) engine there should be no need at all for a stronger starter motor. The same motor can crank an E-type Jaguar. If it cranks to slow something is amiss (brushes, contacts, solenoid, battery terminals etc.). The gear reduction starter motors are in fact much better as they consume a lot less current and thus can save the battery in the long run. Kees Oudesluijs Thomas Willig schreef: > Hi Curt, > > many thanks for this info. Does the list give more technical details of > the starter ...like hp? I wonder if Lucas had a starter which had more > power than 25521B. Many owners convert to the modern gear-reduction > starters, which sounds terrible to me, because they do not trust the > limited output of the 100 starter. Maybe there is a starter in the list > which would look original, while having more cranking power. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Mar 23 07:07:00 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 10:07:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs In-Reply-To: <20100322201940.FL7PK.656459.root@ispmxfep11-z02> Message-ID: <20100323090700.2ENMF.667290.root@ispmxfep12-z02> Lest there be some hurt feelings about this comment of mine, I will say that the poor quality Midwest supplier was not our famous lister Ed. Cheers tom ---- Tom Felts wrote: ============= Not to long ago I got two VERY poor quality ones from a well known mid west supplier. After a fight sent them back for a money-back refund. Ordered two VERY good quality ones from a well known east coast supplier. tom ---- David Masucci wrote: ============= My reasons for questioning the quality of the hubs relates more to the wear characteristics of the splines. If the metal is not of proper hardness, the splines could wear prematurely. The problem with this is by the time you knew the hubs where not right, the hub and the wheel would be junk. Dave BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Mar 23 07:08:33 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 9:08:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] splined hubs In-Reply-To: <20100323025602.7531.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <20100323090833.GB4TT.667362.root@ispmxfep12-z02> FWIW, it was the black ones that I found the quality problems with. vThe problem---the proper size bearings would not fit--no even close. ---- healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: ============= i have purchased 4 or 5 hub sets in the last few years for club members and have noticed that they now come painted black instead of plated like before. are they from different suppliers or is that just the new thing to do? cannot seem to find any difference in quality, but have had no problems so far. hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Mar 23 07:12:24 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 10:12:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs In-Reply-To: <20100323090700.2ENMF.667290.root@ispmxfep12-z02> References: <20100322201940.FL7PK.656459.root@ispmxfep11-z02> <20100323090700.2ENMF.667290.root@ispmxfep12-z02> Message-ID: <009801caca92$dcf685a0$96e390e0$@net> Just a thought, why not name names. Would be nice to know WHO is the East coast supplier who has the good quality so that we can buy from them and also the Mid West one so that we can shy away from them. I know of no "rule" that says that we can not name them nor do I know of a "rule" that makes some on this list call Moss M*** John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:07 AM To: David Masucci; Tom Felts; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Splined Hubs Lest there be some hurt feelings about this comment of mine, I will say that the poor quality Midwest supplier was not our famous lister Ed. Cheers tom ---- Tom Felts wrote: ============= Not to long ago I got two VERY poor quality ones from a well known mid west supplier. After a fight sent them back for a money-back refund. Ordered two VERY good quality ones from a well known east coast supplier. tom ---- David Masucci wrote: ============= My reasons for questioning the quality of the hubs relates more to the wear characteristics of the splines. If the metal is not of proper hardness, the splines could wear prematurely. The problem with this is by the time you knew the hubs where not right, the hub and the wheel would be junk. Dave BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From britishcars at shaw.ca Tue Mar 23 07:15:21 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 07:15:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000701caca93$45fdbaa0$d1f92fe0$@ca> A better place to post pictures is picasa. It is a google application that allows you to post your pictures on a "cloud" and allow access to others....very handy. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 5:40 AM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook I joined that group and it doesn't post anything to my FB page. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you have to actively go to the group page to see what's there? I'm not a big user of FB and prior to this, haven't advertized my use of it. I thought that the group site might be a logical place for people to post pictures, instead of posting them to this list, where they get dropped and leave the rest of us wanting. I wouldn't want it to replace this list, but I can see where it might augment it. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > Carlos - > > My view is the list is MUCH better than Facebook for our hobby. I > have a couple hundred friends on my FB and, well, I get so much random > FB garbage every day that I would not want to have to wade through the > Farmville BS just to find my Healey posts. > > That aside, I suppose it can help promote our hobby to the > uninitiated. Maybe we make a "fix my healey" FB application just to > add to all the garbage in the FB universe. > > Alan > > On 3/23/10, Carlos Cruz wrote: > > Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, > > > > If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other Healey > > enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered by > > all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing all > > of the common connections we share. > > > > I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook profiles? > > This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm just > > wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club or this > > List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your > > thoughts. > > > > Cheers, > > Carlos _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Mar 23 07:14:08 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 07:14:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I use a hard plastic that looks like thewood one but doesn't scratch. Very cool. Moss has a new tool with a long arm that I guess does not need the hammer. Rich Kahn > From: logical2 at hotmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 13:17:36 +0000 > Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs > > New wheels and KO's on my BJ7. > > I've seen wooden wrenches, metal wrenches and of course hammers. > > What's the best way to tighten them without marking or scratching them but > also of course also making sure they're tight enough? > > > > Thanks for the help and suggestions. > > > > 62 BJ7 > > 61 Bugeye > > 69 Midget > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 From mgtd51 at comcast.net Tue Mar 23 14:22:17 2010 From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 10:22:17 -1100 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BA93109.7030209@comcast.net> The long toll can scratch the knockoffs. Larry Swift Richard Kahn wrote: > I use a hard plastic that looks like thewood one but doesn't scratch. Very > cool. Moss has a new tool with a long arm that I guess does not need the > hammer. > Rich Kahn > > >> From: logical2 at hotmail.com >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 13:17:36 +0000 >> Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs >> >> New wheels and KO's on my BJ7. >> >> I've seen wooden wrenches, metal wrenches and of course hammers. >> >> What's the best way to tighten them without marking or scratching them but >> also of course also making sure they're tight enough? >> >> >> >> Thanks for the help and suggestions. >> >> >> >> 62 BJ7 >> >> 61 Bugeye >> >> 69 Midget >> >> >> Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com >> >> >> >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. >> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgtd51 at comcast.net From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Mar 23 07:28:34 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 07:28:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> <751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <751d05481003230728v30928567u4480616e6266aa5c@mail.gmail.com> Thomas, No reference to the starter hp, only the engine hp where listed. And no, I don't know the hp of the Vanguard engine in the Morgan. This starter is also listed as being used on several other vehicle applications to include Standard "Vanguard" (later) '56-'60; "Ensign" '58-'60 and Triumph TR3 (later) '59-'60. The bottom line is that 25550 is NOT the correct starter for your car, so my advice is to locate the correct starter (25521) and have it rebuilt correctly by a competent shop, check all electrical connections and it should work just fine. Remember these starters worked fine when the cars were new and if set up as such will work just as they did back then. When I rebuilt my generator and starter I did it properly. The case was stripped and I had new Glyptol painted inside. I installed new NOS field windings and terminals in both, and since Ford tractors used LUCAS for years the Ford windings were exact replacements for the originals. All new bushings, brushes, and NOS front and back plates in the generator, NOS armature, pinion, sleeve and springs on the starter. Bottom line as good or better than new! This is my problem with things like gear reduction starters and pertronix ignitions and such is that folks cut corners when restoring and then wonder why the originals don't work as well? In the case of ignition systems if the original points setup doesn't work well they switch to a modern alternative. Well sure the modern system will help to compensate with a worn shaft bushing or other worn parts but I can tell you from personal experience that the old points setup works just fine if they are maintained as new, and that's even during a record cold winter back in college where I dug my Healey out of a snow bank and started it in -15 degree weather. The car barely turned over due to the cold but caught almost immediately and fired up just fine! Enough preaching. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 6:33 AM, Thomas Willig wrote: > Hi Curt, > > many thanks for this info. Does the list give more technical details of > the starter ...like hp? I wonder if Lucas had a starter which had more > power than 25521B. Many owners convert to the modern gear-reduction > starters, which sounds terrible to me, because they do not trust the > limited output of the 100 starter. Maybe there is a starter in the list > which would look original, while having more cranking power. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig From peter at nosimport.com Tue Mar 23 07:38:13 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 09:38:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] The Answer to - single stage BBQ Black In-Reply-To: <4BA82A62.5030302@justbrits.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100319193440.01fd7940@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100320144857.0206a288@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4BA54F71.7040105@justbrits.com> <000401cac91c$0d8c0d70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4BA82A62.5030302@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <201003230638576.SM06964@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> At 09:41 PM 3/22/2010, Shop at \" Just Brits \" wrote: >Folks, yesterday early afternoon Mark LaPierre > > >"Chassis Black" IS a paint and NOT an encapsulate. >IIRC comes in two versions; Regular & Extreme which is >designed for chassis use whereas the Regular is GREAT >for all other pieces that normally would be black. And >it is VERY 'black'. You would have to have two [2] items >side-by-side to see what I mean. ========= As an adjunct.... it takes FOREVER to dry. We tried it in our shock production (at the request of said owner) and had to wait a day to ship. But, it's other attributes are very desirable. Peter C From ampole at hotmail.com Tue Mar 23 07:39:51 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 14:39:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Rich, so does AH Spares, its a new product a cnc milled ali racing spanner, but at 200 pounds, I cannot see them selling many? http://www.ahspares.co.uk/products/productdetail.aspx?GUID=99dd343d-4387-434e -bc37-cd29e8e075f7 cheers Andy > I use a hard plastic that looks like thewood one but doesn't scratch. Very > cool. Moss has a new tool with a long arm that I guess does not need the > hammer. > Rich Kahn > _________________________________________________________________ Tell us your greatest, weirdest and funniest Hotmail stories http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Mar 23 07:40:51 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 07:40:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <751d05481003230740r20f2c93bt95124b81d91870f0@mail.gmail.com> Frank, I use what Roger Moment uses, a 4 pound lead shot filled, hard rubber hammer sold at Harbor Freight Stores. Inexpensive and works extremely well. They are black in color and the vendor name molded into the head is "Pittsburgh." If you think that after spending hours to weld up all the gouges and nicks, regrind, hand file and profile and then triple chrome plate our original knockoffs, that we would use anything that might damage them, then you don't know us very well. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 6:17 AM, Frank Edwards wrote: > New wheels and KO's on my BJ7. > > I've seen wooden wrenches, metal wrenches and of course hammers. > > What's the best way to tighten them without marking or scratching them but > also of course also making sure they're tight enough? > > > > Thanks for the help and suggestions. > > > > 62 BJ7 > > 61 Bugeye > > 69 Midget > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Tue Mar 23 08:13:48 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 11:13:48 EDT Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs Message-ID: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> I've got one of Charlie Hart's wooden wrenches and it's the best I've ever had the pleasure of using. It fits really nicely in the trunk of my BN1. It's light weight yet very strong. I can make all of my knock offs fit tightly and evenly and no hitting anything with a hammer. The first time I saw Charlie showing it off, I told him I wanted one and he made one. Every time I show it off at car shows or get togethers, everyone is impressed and wants one of their own. He makes his out of wood, and not just any wood, but he can best explain the process. Charlie is on the list and takes orders. NFI, just a very satisfied user. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 3/23/2010 6:18:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, logical2 at hotmail.com writes: New wheels and KO's on my BJ7. I've seen wooden wrenches, metal wrenches and of course hammers. What's the best way to tighten them without marking or scratching them but also of course also making sure they're tight enough? Thanks for the help and suggestions. 62 BJ7 61 Bugeye 69 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Tue Mar 23 08:24:11 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 11:24:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> References: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> Message-ID: Charlie, what say you? Details please. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On Mar 23, 2010, at 11:13 AM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > I've got one of Charlie Hart's wooden wrenches and it's the best I've ever > had the pleasure of using. It fits really nicely in the trunk of my BN1. > It's light weight yet very strong. I can make all of my knock offs fit > tightly and evenly and no hitting anything with a hammer. The first time I saw > Charlie showing it off, I told him I wanted one and he made one. Every time I > show it off at car shows or get togethers, everyone is impressed and wants > one of their own. He makes his out of wood, and not just any wood, but he > can best explain the process. > Charlie is on the list and takes orders. NFI, just a very satisfied > user. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 From twillig at ruda.de Tue Mar 23 08:29:52 2010 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:29:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: <751d05481003230728v30928567u4480616e6266aa5c@mail.gmail.com> References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> <751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com> <751d05481003230728v30928567u4480616e6266aa5c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Curt, no problem with preaching! I am from the same congregation that you are. Why buy an old car and then change everything to modern specification. I try to keep my cars as near as possible to the technical specification of their time as possible. I totally agree with you that in most cases (there are exceptions to the rule) an correctly maintained distributor, starter, dynamo is up to the job. As all cables have been replaced, the ground strap is in place as it should be, battery master switch is overhauled, batteries are brand new, etc. etc. I am very confident that there are Lucas starters with identical housing as the 100, that have less cranking power. So...I am going to get me an original, rebuildable starter motor. Anyone, maybe someone who preferred to use a modern gear reduction starter, has a 25221 for sale?? Regards Thomas Willig From jstmorris at yahoo.com Tue Mar 23 08:36:35 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:36:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Splined Hubs In-Reply-To: <009801caca92$dcf685a0$96e390e0$@net> Message-ID: <429851.65554.qm@web30306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> In December of 2001, David Ward of Big Healey Restorations Ltd, [ http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk ] wrote: b If you wish to purchase new wire wheel hub adaptors for any Healey, then why not go direct to the actual manufacturer and supplier.B This is Orson Equipment ... b B ORSON EQUIPMENT LTD Orson Equipment Limited, through our established in-house, manufacturing company - Concept Technical Services Limited - manufactures and supplies a variety of spare parts and other accessories for classic cars.B B Concept Technical Services is highly respected in the aerospace industry as a front-line manufacturer and supplier, strictly adhering to the industry's stringent quality control systems.B B Both Orson Equipment and Concept Technical Services were established in 1983 and have built up a first class reputation for quality. Having state-of-the-art computerised manufacturing facilities, in new, purpose designed premises, means that the product design and manufacture are controlled from inception to completion by our own experts.B B Both companies have acquired the coveted ISO 9002 international quality standard.ServicesB B B B : Brakes, Wheels, Steering & SuspensionAddressB B B B : Unit 8, Peartree Industrial Park, Crackley Way, off Peartree Lane, Dudley W MidsB B B B PostcodeB B B : DY2 0UWB B B B Country: United KingdomTelephone : +44 (0)1384 241717EmailB B B B B B B B : info at orsonequipment.co.ukWebB B B B B B B B B B B : http://www.orsonequipment.co.uk FaxB B B B B B B B B B B B B B : +44 (0)1384 240403B So, if you are concerned about quality, get in touch with Orson Equipment and see what they say;in other words, go directly to an actual manufacturer. JB --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaJ. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Tue, 3/23/10, John Sims wrote: << Just a thought, why not name names. Would be nice to know WHO is the East coast supplier who has the good quality so that we can buy from them and also the Mid West one so that we can shy away from them. I know of no "rule" that says that we can not name them nor do I know of a "rule" that makes some on this list call Moss M*** >> __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Mar 23 08:56:52 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 15:56:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?tightening_knockoffs?= Message-ID: <20100323155652.1285.qmail@server278.com> i think lead or dead blow hammers work the best. even copper hammers seem to deform the brass on the new knockoffs. my old original ones that i had rechromed in germany 25 years ago are holding up well with my copper hammer, but i have seen new knockoffs get slightly flattened with old copper hammers, which apparently get harder the more you use them. hjim From mark at bradakis.com Tue Mar 23 08:58:31 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 09:58:31 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: <4BA8E527.60202@bradakis.com> robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote: > I thought that the group site might be a logical place for people to post > pictures, instead of posting them to this list, where they get dropped and > leave the rest of us wanting. I wouldn't want it to replace this list, but I > can see where it might augment it. > The Triumph folks were able to figure it out: http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27 Lots of list member pictures of their cars and themselves. mjb. From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Mar 23 09:08:30 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:08:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?100_starter_motors?= Message-ID: <20100323160830.26541.qmail@server278.com> i second john's theory. i have seen two healeys with starting problems that had missing or poorly connnected ground straps, and the starter would hardly turn the motor over. hjim From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Tue Mar 23 09:13:52 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:13:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: <4BA8E527.60202@bradakis.com> References: <771330.5910.qm@web50001.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, , , , <4BA8E527.60202@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Looks like they had inside help!! :) Robert > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 09:58:31 -0600 > From: mark at bradakis.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook > > robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote: > > I thought that the group site might be a logical place for people to post > > pictures, instead of posting them to this list, where they get dropped and > > leave the rest of us wanting. I wouldn't want it to replace this list, but I > > can see where it might augment it. > > > > The Triumph folks were able to figure it out: > > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27 > > Lots of list member pictures of their cars and themselves. > > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Tue Mar 23 09:19:08 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:19:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors Message-ID: I recall that there were bad ign rotors in production some time ago. How can they be identified? Suggestions on good rotors? I have been chasing down a ign miss on our Bugeye. When I connected a jumper wire from the coil (H.T), held the end close to the rotor and turned the ignition- I got a strong spark. The rotor is grounding through the dist body. And it shouldn't ever spark. I'm correct here, right? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Mar 23 09:23:13 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:23:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] splined hubs In-Reply-To: <20100323090833.GB4TT.667362.root@ispmxfep12-z02> References: <20100323090833.GB4TT.667362.root@ispmxfep12-z02> Message-ID: <95678C3C1BEF48EDB3465C80E1B43041@LIFEBOOK> I can't help but wonder about the extra thickness of paint on all these precision machined surfaces. Doesn't this cause binding or breaking down the painted finish on critical areas like the seating chamfer, the splines and the knockoff threads? I think I'd prefer to stick with the zinc plated finish that will have grease applied to it anyway so it shouldn't rust. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Felts" Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:08 AM To: ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] splined hubs > FWIW, it was the black ones that I found the quality problems with. vThe > problem---the proper size bearings would not fit--no even close. > > > > > ---- healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: > > ============= > i have purchased 4 or 5 hub sets in the last few years for club members > and have noticed that they now come painted black instead of plated like > before. are they from different suppliers or is that just the new thing > to do? cannot seem to find any difference in quality, but have had no > problems so far. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Mar 23 09:26:29 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:26:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> Message-ID: <00a001cacaa5$97f32770$c7d97650$@net> I just put two photos of Charlie's Knock Off Wrench on the Contact Me page on my site. They will be there for a while until I can figure out where they actually should be. Also, Charlie makes a 6 position fuse block which looks like it should be an original AND is attached using the existing holes. Just bolt it on and go to town! John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 11:24 AM To: Charles Hart Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs Charlie, what say you? Details please. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On Mar 23, 2010, at 11:13 AM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > I've got one of Charlie Hart's wooden wrenches and it's the best I've ever > had the pleasure of using. It fits really nicely in the trunk of my BN1. > It's light weight yet very strong. I can make all of my knock offs fit > tightly and evenly and no hitting anything with a hammer. The first time I saw > Charlie showing it off, I told him I wanted one and he made one. Every time I > show it off at car shows or get togethers, everyone is impressed and wants > one of their own. He makes his out of wood, and not just any wood, but he > can best explain the process. > Charlie is on the list and takes orders. NFI, just a very satisfied > user. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Mar 23 09:26:10 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:26:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E4DEB49CB9F46B7AC6A6E224A5E7C34@LIFEBOOK> I have always used the rawhide side of a Thor copper/hide hammer to tighten and loosen knockoffs. These do not leave a mark even on today's knockoffs. I go through the hide portion of a 2 lb. copper/hide hammer about every 10 years, and this hammer gets used a lot more frequently than the average owner's would. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Frank Edwards" Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 9:17 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs > New wheels and KO's on my BJ7. > > I've seen wooden wrenches, metal wrenches and of course hammers. > > What's the best way to tighten them without marking or scratching them but > also of course also making sure they're tight enough? > > > > Thanks for the help and suggestions. > > > > 62 BJ7 > > 61 Bugeye > > 69 Midget > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Mar 23 09:30:47 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:30:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter motors In-Reply-To: <20100323160830.26541.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100323160830.26541.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <00a201cacaa6$31ad18d0$95074a70$@net> Make it three because it happened to me. My car was always hard to start from the day I bought it. Took me several years to figure it out as it is a very easily overlooked item (in fact I discovered it was missing when I was going through the Nock catalog on a rainy day with nothing else to do and noted an entry for it. Starter spins like a champ now. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter motors i second john's theory. i have seen two healeys with starting problems that had missing or poorly connnected ground straps, and the starter would hardly turn the motor over. hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Mar 23 09:32:22 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:32:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00a301cacaa6$6a5297a0$3ef7c6e0$@net> Look in the Ignition section on the Technical page of my site for two articles on rotors. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T Miller Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors I recall that there were bad ign rotors in production some time ago. How can they be identified? Suggestions on good rotors? I have been chasing down a ign miss on our Bugeye. When I connected a jumper wire from the coil (H.T), held the end close to the rotor and turned the ignition- I got a strong spark. The rotor is grounding through the dist body. And it shouldn't ever spark. I'm correct here, right? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From wilkmanracing at aol.com Tue Mar 23 09:33:47 2010 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:33:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors In-Reply-To: <00a301cacaa6$6a5297a0$3ef7c6e0$@net> References: <00a301cacaa6$6a5297a0$3ef7c6e0$@net> Message-ID: <8CC98BDBECCD4D4-19F8-C508@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> Is there any way to turn the sound off at your web site? Bill Wilkman -----Original Message----- From: John Sims To: 'S and T Miller' ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 9:32 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors Look in the Ignition section on the Technical page of my site for two articles on rotors. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T Miller Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors I recall that there were bad ign rotors in production some time ago. How can they be identified? Suggestions on good rotors? I have been chasing down a ign miss on our Bugeye. When I connected a jumper wire from the coil (H.T), held the end close to the rotor and turned the ignition- I got a strong spark. The rotor is grounding through the dist body. And it shouldn't ever spark. I'm correct here, right? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Mar 23 09:41:38 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 08:41:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?best_way_to_tighten_Knock_Offs?= Message-ID: <20100323164138.28048.qmail@hoster902.com> I too own one of Charlie Hart's wooden wrenches and swear by it. In the past I used the Harbor Freight dead blow rubber hammer, but my first one caused damage to my knockoffs. The shot inside is evidently inside a metal canister which has sharp edges facing the hitting surface. After a while the metal tends to poke through the rubber on impact and it put some nicks in my knockoffs. Originally I had one of the Moss wooden adapters - it disintegrated when one of my knockoffs got stuck. -- Steve Gerow BN6 From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Tue Mar 23 09:50:09 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:50:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors In-Reply-To: <00a301cacaa6$6a5297a0$3ef7c6e0$@net> References: , <00a301cacaa6$6a5297a0$3ef7c6e0$@net> Message-ID: Thank you. It appears that I had the number four rotor, until it broke because of the rivet. And sure enough I replaced it with the number three rotor- the other piece of junk. Just my luck. Adv. dist. seems to be the way to go. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." > From: ahbn6 at verizon.net > To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:32:22 -0400 > > Look in the Ignition section on the Technical page of my site for two > articles on rotors. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of S and T Miller > Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:19 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors > > I recall that there were bad ign rotors in production some time ago. How > can > they be identified? Suggestions on good rotors? > > I have been chasing down a ign miss on our Bugeye. When I connected a > jumper > wire from the coil (H.T), held the end close to the rotor and turned the > ignition- I got a strong spark. The rotor is grounding through the dist > body. > And it shouldn't ever spark. I'm correct here, right? > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ From mdoust at allstream.net Tue Mar 23 09:50:42 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (Mark Doust) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:50:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Listers & Facebook Message-ID: <006201cacaa8$fa0d69e0$ee283da0$@net> Got it Figured it out http://www.team.net/forums/index.php Now a Healey picture up and running Cheers Mark Southern Ontario -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: March-23-10 11:59 AM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote: > I thought that the group site might be a logical place for people to post > pictures, instead of posting them to this list, where they get dropped and > leave the rest of us wanting. I wouldn't want it to replace this list, but I > can see where it might augment it. > The Triumph folks were able to figure it out: http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27 Lots of list member pictures of their cars and themselves. mjb. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mdoust at allstream.net From mark at bradakis.com Tue Mar 23 09:59:28 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 10:59:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Listers & Facebook In-Reply-To: <006201cacaa8$fa0d69e0$ee283da0$@net> References: <006201cacaa8$fa0d69e0$ee283da0$@net> Message-ID: <4BA8F370.2030809@bradakis.com> > Now a Healey picture up and running > > Nice. Planning on putting that tractor motor in the Healey ;-) mjb. From mdoust at allstream.net Tue Mar 23 10:10:41 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (Mark Doust) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 13:10:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: FW: Listers & Facebook Message-ID: <006301cacaab$c45da410$4d18ec30$@net> Wrong the 4L from the Jeep will work better More hacking and cutting that way Cheers Mark -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: March-23-10 12:59 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Listers & Facebook > Now a Healey picture up and running > > Nice. Planning on putting that tractor motor in the Healey ;-) mjb. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mdoust at allstream.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Mar 23 10:22:19 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 18:22:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] earth strap missing In-Reply-To: <00a201cacaa6$31ad18d0$95074a70$@net> References: <20100323160830.26541.qmail@server278.com> <00a201cacaa6$31ad18d0$95074a70$@net> Message-ID: <4BA8F8CB.2010507@chello.nl> You have been lucky not to fry the engines wiring and cause a fire. It is a thing of all times and all makes and indeed one of the first things to check. Kees Oudesluijs NL John Sims schreef: > Make it three because it happened to me. My car was always hard to start > from the day I bought it. Took me several years to figure it out as it is a > very easily overlooked item (in fact I discovered it was missing when I was > going through the Nock catalog on a rainy day with nothing else to do and > noted an entry for it. Starter spins like a champ now. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter motors > > i second john's theory. i have seen two healeys with starting problems that > had missing or poorly connnected ground straps, and the starter would hardly > turn the motor over. hjim From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Mar 23 11:08:10 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 11:08:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de> <751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com> <751d05481003230728v30928567u4480616e6266aa5c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <751d05481003231108vc1e8776gb3527a72e95c7b50@mail.gmail.com> Thomas, Thanks for the comments. I'm fairly certain that the starter you have is just not up to the job, so as you indicated it's time to acquire the correct one. They are out there, it just might take a bit of time to find the correct one. Curt On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 8:29 AM, Thomas Willig wrote: > Curt, > > > > no problem with preaching! I am from the same congregation that you are. > Why buy an old car and then change everything to modern specification. I > try to keep my cars as near as possible to the technical specification of > their time as possible. I totally agree with you that in most cases (there > are exceptions to the rule) an correctly maintained distributor, starter, > dynamo is up to the job. > > As all cables have been replaced, the ground strap is in place as it should > be, battery master switch is overhauled, batteries are brand new, etc. etc. > I am very confident that there are Lucas starters with identical housing as > the 100, that have less cranking power. SoI am going to get me an original, > rebuildable starter motor. > > > > Anyone, maybe someone who preferred to use a modern gear reduction starter, > has a 25221 for sale?? > > > > Regards > > > > > > Thomas Willig From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Tue Mar 23 12:19:05 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 20:19:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: <009701caca91$c71e4980$555adc80$@net> References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de><751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com><4BA8C953.9070404@chello.nl> <009701caca91$c71e4980$555adc80$@net> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30121AE06@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Or just paint at the joining surfaces of starter and engine back plate. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von John Sims Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Mdrz 2010 15:05 An: 'Oudesluys'; 'Thomas Willig' Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor Or another common missing piece is the engine ground strap. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:00 AM To: Thomas Willig Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor Thomas, Unless you have a very high compression (modified) engine there should be no need at all for a stronger starter motor. The same motor can crank an E-type Jaguar. If it cranks to slow something is amiss (brushes, contacts, solenoid, battery terminals etc.). The gear reduction starter motors are in fact much better as they consume a lot less current and thus can save the battery in the long run. Kees Oudesluijs Thomas Willig schreef: > Hi Curt, > > many thanks for this info. Does the list give more technical details > of the starter ...like hp? I wonder if Lucas had a starter which had > more power than 25521B. Many owners convert to the modern > gear-reduction starters, which sounds terrible to me, because they do > not trust the limited output of the 100 starter. Maybe there is a > starter in the list which would look original, while having more cranking power. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _________ From bj7ah at acanac.net Tue Mar 23 14:01:27 2010 From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 17:01:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Place forpictures In-Reply-To: <006201cacaa8$fa0d69e0$ee283da0$@net> References: <006201cacaa8$fa0d69e0$ee283da0$@net> Message-ID: This is a great place to put pictures of cars, shop talk etc. Just sign up and put your pictures here. Bob 1963 BJ7 http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=37 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Doust" Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:50 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] FW: Listers & Facebook > Got it > > Figured it out > > http://www.team.net/forums/index.php > > > Now a Healey picture up and running > > Cheers > Mark > Southern Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis > Sent: March-23-10 11:59 AM > To: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook > > robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote: >> I thought that the group site might be a logical place for people to post >> pictures, instead of posting them to this list, where they get dropped >> and >> leave the rest of us wanting. I wouldn't want it to replace this list, > but I >> can see where it might augment it. >> > > The Triumph folks were able to figure it out: > > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27 > > Lots of list member pictures of their cars and themselves. > > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mdoust at allstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah at acanac.net From shop at justbrits.com Tue Mar 23 14:33:12 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:33:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] If you have NOT........ Message-ID: <4BA93398.7070107@justbrits.com> seen or read this, it's just UN-REAL !!!!! How A $500 Craigslist Car Beat $400K Rally Racers or *http://tinyurl.com/yf5dmyz * or http://jalopnik.com/5497042/how-a-500-craigslist-car-beat-400k-rally-racers From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Mar 23 14:57:09 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 17:57:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] splined hubs References: <847551.50904.qm@web110205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001101cacad3$c99202a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> My problem was the poor shipping procedure that Moss kept using. Small boxes and poor interior protection. I sent a couple back because they banged into each other in shipping. Thats a lot of money to shell out for nicked up splines and threads. So far, no apparent issues in quality. Also I could not get the old lug bolts to go into the new splines without banging the hell out of them and using heat. Definitely not good for the spline flange. The holes were too small. Don't forget new lugs for each spline hub. If some splines come with lugs installed then maybe that is some of the price difference. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bert Van Brande" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:09 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] splined hubs > Could be that you have the new cathodic electro coated splined hubs > > check it out on the mws site: > > http://www.mwsint.com/Products/ViewNews.asp?NewsId=1536 > > I don't see an option in their online shop section to choose this option > or > regular plated hubs > > Bert > > > > --- On Tue, 3/23/10, healeymanjim at hansencc.net > wrote: > >> From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net >> Subject: [Healeys] splined hubs >> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" >> Date: Tuesday, March 23, 2010, 3:56 AM >> i have purchased 4 or 5 hub sets in >> the last few years for club members and have noticed that >> they now come painted black instead of plated like >> before. are they from different suppliers >> or is that just the new thing to do? cannot seem to >> find any difference in quality, but have had no problems so >> far. hjim >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Tue Mar 23 15:01:04 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 18:01:04 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Listers & Facebook Message-ID: <288fc.7989184f.38da9420@aol.com> Carlos, The AHCA Facebook page was created by Future Fifty Founder Ben Moore as a way to reach the younger crowd initially. It was actually created during the AHCA Leadership meeting a few weeks ago by Ben and I was online and promoted it. Before the meeting ended that day it had 63 members. I don't see Facebook replacing this list. It is nice to share photos and keep up with your friends. I envision the Bluegrass Club Facebook page as a way to help promote events like Springthing and Conclave 2012 and the AHCA page as another tool for recruitment and promoting for regional events. In the Bluegrass Club I still have a club email list, newsletter, web site etc and that won't change. If you look at the options on your wall you can filter out the Farmville etc stuff and limit messages. My personal regret is that I am very active in local politics and every politician in town linked to me and I wish I had established a separate account just for the car friends so they would not be bothered (after the primary). Jim Werner In a message dated 3/22/2010 7:44:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com writes: Good Evening Fellow Listers & Sods, If you guys are like me, you've received several requests from other Healey enthusiasts to confirm a FaceBook invitation from them. I'm flattered by all of the invites. Some of you have nice profiles and I enjoy seeing all of the common connections we share. I'm curious as to what everyone plans to do with their FaceBook profiles? This seems to have begun with Jim's initial invite from AHCA and I'm just wondering if this came with some strategic foresight on how the Club or this List might benefit from the social networking site? I appreciate your thoughts. Cheers, Carlos Jim Werner Louisville, KY From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Tue Mar 23 15:55:28 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:55:28 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE0CD@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day Just as an aside. The 100S was fitted with an oil temperature gauge as standard. If you would like to see where it was positioned have a look at: http://www.healeyclub.org/images/HealeyMarque.pdf The car in the photo also has two ancillary gauges fitted within a bezel below the dash. I have a 100S dash fitted to the BN3/1, but there is an ammeter in place of the oil temp gauge. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Sunday, 21 March 2010 12:10 PM To: dwflagg; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter Doug - Rich will know, but on the 100 I think they usually drilled a hole in the dash where the OD switch is. The OD switch would then be moved up and toward the steering wheel a bit... On 3/20/10, dwflagg wrote: > According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an Ammeter > and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does > anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or > using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. > > Doug ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Tue Mar 23 16:00:11 2010 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:00:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 In-Reply-To: <7B8002C367E5467FAA2E89B70A2BEB14@LIFEBOOK> References: <7B8002C367E5467FAA2E89B70A2BEB14@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342054D@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> On a related issue, I just put in the fasteners on a new BJ8 top boot. I used my old original boot as a guide for the very first locations near the trunk hinges. I went from the edge of the material and that was a mistake. This new boot has slightly more material than original in every panel. I made the same mistake in location for the three snaps at the top of the rear seat cushion. The boot now is quite baggy as it covers the folded top. I should have put the boot over the folded top first and pulled fore and aft for snugness. Then I probably would have had the rear fasteners centered between the boot edge and the next line of stitching. I would have had the fwd edge of the panel going past the seat cushion edge as much as necessary for snugness even if it is not like original. When I do the tonneau in a few weeks, I think I match the rear vertical to horizontal seam to the folded top first and then start in on the fasteners. I will also do it in the bright sun. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:28 AM To: andy pole; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] healboard lift a dot fastener position bj8 Andy, I have found that it's best to select the positions once you have the tonneau cover fitted in place with the tonneau bar. That way, any variables (and there are many) can be taken into account as you fit your particular tonneu cover to your car. They certainly seemed to vary on original cars and were not particularly level either. For instance the ones in this picture are in their original positions. Rich From s.hutchings at rogers.com Tue Mar 23 16:53:51 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 19:53:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Camshaft removal Message-ID: I've removed all the components necessary (valve gear, lifters, distributor drive, oil pump) and am at the stage where I've removed the bolts and locating plate, and am ready to pull out the camshaft. I want to do this carefully so that I don't get a sudden thunk and damage the bearings with the journals, but I expected it to move more easily than it is. I think I just have to overcome the suction of the oil on the bearings, but I am surprized that I can't turn it with my hand. I thought maybe I'd re-attach the gear and gain a little purchase on the shaft.... What do you think? Just to forestall questions, I'll explain later why I'm removing the cam, but the bearings are OK. Stephen, BJ8 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Mar 23 17:12:22 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 20:12:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter motors In-Reply-To: <20100323160830.26541.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100323160830.26541.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: I've also seen second rate "rebuilds of these. For instance a lot of resistance can be in play causing poor sluggish performance if the commutator segments haven't been properly cleaned. Old carbon buuld up in between the segments can be the problem here, even though the commutator is bright and shiny and the brushes are good. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:08 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter motors > i second john's theory. i have seen two healeys with starting problems > that had missing or poorly connnected ground straps, and the starter would > hardly turn the motor over. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Mar 23 17:23:46 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:23:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Camshaft removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Stephen - Definitely reattach the gear to give you the leverage to spin and pull the cam. Once you do that it should come right out. Ideally the motor should be out of the car and you do this with the block upside down to guide the cam. If the motor is in the car you should drop the pan and have someone on the underside of the car help guide the cam out for you - it is heavy and you won't be able to keep it smacking the bearings if you do this by yourself. I'm trying to recall, can you even pull the cam out with the motor in the car? I think you can but I've never done it with motor in situ. Alan On 3/24/10, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I've removed all the components necessary (valve gear, lifters, > distributor drive, oil pump) and am at the stage where I've removed > the bolts and locating plate, and am ready to pull out the camshaft. > I want to do this carefully so that I don't get a sudden thunk and > damage the bearings with the journals, but I expected it to move more > easily than it is. I think I just have to overcome the suction of the > oil on the bearings, but I am surprized that I can't turn it with my > hand. > I thought maybe I'd re-attach the gear and gain a little purchase on > the shaft.... > What do you think? > Just to forestall questions, I'll explain later why I'm removing the > cam, but the bearings are OK. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Mar 23 17:29:45 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:29:45 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE0CD@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> References: <20100320.074358.20190.77620@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE0CD@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: Yes, almost every 100 picure that I have seen, so prepped by DHMC, had an auxiliary guage was put in this position. If you have the Bill Emerson's Healey book there are at least 3 BN1s and 2s, factory prepped, with this exact same configuration. Of course dealers, as Rich has pointed out, did pretty much whatever they wanted to. On 3/24/10, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day > > Just as an aside. The 100S was fitted with an oil temperature gauge as > standard. If you would like to see where it was positioned have a look at: > > http://www.healeyclub.org/images/HealeyMarque.pdf > > The car in the photo also has two ancillary gauges fitted within a bezel > below the dash. > > I have a 100S dash fitted to the BN3/1, but there is an ammeter in place of > the oil temp gauge. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Sunday, 21 March 2010 12:10 PM > To: dwflagg; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxillary Amp Meter > > Doug - Rich will know, but on the 100 I think they usually drilled a > hole in the dash where the OD switch is. The OD switch would then be > moved up and toward the steering wheel a bit... > > On 3/20/10, dwflagg wrote: >> According to Clausager's book, a 1956 dated price list offered an Ammeter >> and an oil temperature guage as optional equipment for the 100. Does >> anyone know where they would have been mounted? Either in the dash or >> using an auxillary panel under the dash. Thanks. >> >> Doug > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From s.hutchings at rogers.com Tue Mar 23 17:45:31 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 20:45:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Camshaft removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Alan, The engine is out of the car and on it's side, so I can even reach in through the sump if I have to. I think it would be very awkward to do this in situ. Stephen >Stephen - > >Definitely reattach the gear to give you the leverage to spin and pull >the cam. Once you do that it should come right out. > >Ideally the motor should be out of the car and you do this with the >block upside down to guide the cam. > >If the motor is in the car you should drop the pan and have someone on >the underside of the car help guide the cam out for you - it is heavy >and you won't be able to keep it smacking the bearings if you do this >by yourself. > >I'm trying to recall, can you even pull the cam out with the motor in >the car? I think you can but I've never done it with motor in situ. > >Alan From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Mar 23 19:48:32 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 19:48:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: <00a001cacaa5$97f32770$c7d97650$@net> References: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> <00a001cacaa5$97f32770$c7d97650$@net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100323194708.01fd1f08@pop.att.yahoo.com> John, Is there a way to turn off the sound at your web site? If not would you add a button. Nothing personal I would prefer not to have the sound. Otherwise it is a very good site. Thank you, John Spaur From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Mar 23 22:11:54 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (p_cquinn at tpg.com.au) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 16:11:54 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] A Photo Please? Message-ID: <1269407514.4ba99f1ace275@postoffice.tpg.com.au> Gday I am on the look out for another photo to use in our club magazine. The photos is of any model big Healey that has been fully packed for a touring holiday. In other words it may have a luggage rack with a piece of luggage strapped to it and if its 4 seater you can probably see luggage and other belongings sticking out everywhere. High resolution please. Can anyone help? And no I will not be using the photo for any other purpose other that to accompany a short article on preparing an AH for touring. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Wed Mar 24 00:28:47 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 00:28:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors In-Reply-To: References: <00a301cacaa6$6a5297a0$3ef7c6e0$@net> Message-ID: <5caeedb51003240028lfb3fda7t4bf402749df4e679@mail.gmail.com> i lost the rotor on my E type going 125 MPH in Montana two years ago. a very slight wobble in the dizzy could not take the 4,000 RPM for an hour and the rivet came out. i had a spare. i now carry two spares in each car! ron rader 1965 BJ8 1967 E type 1960 XK 150 FHC On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 9:50 AM, S and T Miller wrote: > > Thank you. It appears that I had the number four rotor, until it broke > because of the rivet. And sure enough I replaced it with the number three > rotor- the other piece of junk. Just my luck. Adv. dist. seems to be the way > to go. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > > > From: ahbn6 at verizon.net > > To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors > > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:32:22 -0400 > > > > Look in the Ignition section on the Technical page of my site for two > > articles on rotors. > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of S and T Miller > > Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:19 PM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Bad ign rotors > > > > I recall that there were bad ign rotors in production some time ago. How > > can > > they be identified? Suggestions on good rotors? > > > > I have been chasing down a ign miss on our Bugeye. When I connected a > > jumper > > wire from the coil (H.T), held the end close to the rotor and turned the > > ignition- I got a strong spark. The rotor is grounding through the dist > > body. > > And it shouldn't ever spark. I'm correct here, right? > > > > The Millers > > "British Car Nuts" > > > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > > drive." > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft s powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Wed Mar 24 04:07:34 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 04:07:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100323194708.01fd1f08@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> <00a001cacaa5$97f32770$c7d97650$@net> <6.2.3.4.2.20100323194708.01fd1f08@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <62148.93629.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Perhaps the on/off button on your speakers is an alternative? ________________________________ From: john spaur To: John Sims Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, March 23, 2010 10:48:32 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs John, Is there a way to turn off the sound at your web site? If not would you add a button. Nothing personal I would prefer not to have the sound. Otherwise it is a very good site. Thank you, John Spaur _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 24 04:37:20 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:37:20 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: <62148.93629.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> <00a001cacaa5$97f32770$c7d97650$@net> <6.2.3.4.2.20100323194708.01fd1f08@pop.att.yahoo.com> <62148.93629.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Unless the speakers are equipped with the dreaded Lucas on/off switch and Lucas fuse blox. On 3/24/10, Ron Mitchell wrote: > Perhaps the on/off button on your speakers is an alternative? > ________________________________ > From: john spaur > To: > John Sims > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, March 23, > 2010 10:48:32 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs > > John, > Is there a way to turn off the sound at your web site? If not would you add > a > button. Nothing personal I would prefer not to have the sound. Otherwise it > is > a very good site. > > Thank you, > John Spaur > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Mar 24 04:58:53 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 07:58:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs Message-ID: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, but interesting" link. For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the sound files. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From amalin at mac.com Wed Mar 24 05:00:07 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:00:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: <62148.93629.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> <00a001cacaa5$97f32770$c7d97650$@net> <6.2.3.4.2.20100323194708.01fd1f08@pop.att.yahoo.com> <62148.93629.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Me too, I would prefer to not have the sound. Using the stereo on/off button would be a pain since I would have to not only use the one within arm-length but I also have to deal with a stereo on/off button in the dinning room and a stereo on/off button in the family room. You see, I listen to a lot of music via iTunes and internet radio. My computer is also my juke box from which I Wi-Fi pump the audio to three locations. Alternatively I could shut down my wireless distribution system while I visit his site but after a while it becomes bothersome. Likewise, this is nothing personal. John provides a great service that is greatly appreciated by the Healey community. I thank and applaud him for his efforts. Al Malin Tricarb On Mar 24, 2010, at 7:07 AM, Ron Mitchell wrote: > Perhaps the on/off button on your speakers is an alternative? > ________________________________ > From: john spaur > To: > John Sims > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, March 23, > 2010 10:48:32 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs > > John, > Is there a way to turn off the sound at your web site? If not would you add a > button. Nothing personal I would prefer not to have the sound. Otherwise it is > a very good site. > > Thank you, > John Spaur > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Mar 24 05:31:32 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 12:31:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A Photo Please? In-Reply-To: <1269407514.4ba99f1ace275@postoffice.tpg.com.au> References: <1269407514.4ba99f1ace275@postoffice.tpg.com.au> Message-ID: Hey! Is this email only for G. Day? ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 16:11:54 +1100 > > Gday > > I am on the look out for another photo to use in our club magazine. > > The photos is of any model big Healey that has been fully packed for a touring holiday. In other > words it may have a luggage rack with a piece of luggage strapped to it and if its 4 seater you > can probably see luggage and other belongings sticking out everywhere. > > High resolution please. > > Can anyone help? And no I will not be using the photo for any other purpose other that to > accompany a short article on preparing an AH for touring. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia From grday at btinternet.com Wed Mar 24 06:08:14 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:08:14 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> Message-ID: John, I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Laughs >I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go > to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, > but interesting" link. > > For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the > sound > files. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Mar 24 06:15:37 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:15:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> Message-ID: <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs John, I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Laughs >I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go > to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, > but interesting" link. > > For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the > sound > files. From grday at btinternet.com Wed Mar 24 06:51:55 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:51:55 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> Message-ID: John, After 51, 387 persons have visited your site you have received 3 complaints. I believe that could be around 0.00006 per cent of your visitors who have expressed disquiet. That percentage of people who do not have the ability to find either the volume control switch on their speakers or the slider on the computer will not visit your site again. Are you really bothered? Should those 3 dictate to 51,000 plus (the 99.9994 per cent) who haven't complained? If you are e-mailed another 2 times from people who are complaining the sound has gone, will it come back? BIG SMILE Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: "'Guy R Day'" ; Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:15 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Laughs You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs John, I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Laughs >I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go > to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, > but interesting" link. > > For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the > sound > files. From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Mar 24 07:02:48 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:02:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> Message-ID: <013001cacb5a$b01a28c0$104e7a40$@net> I have a rather thin skin, obviously. To answer your questions, A little, No, Yes. I guess that proves the old adage that you can not please everyone. I spend at least an hour a day on this site and am still around 50 items behind on links, articles, etc. that need to be posted. It costs me several hundred dollars a year in fees to my provider as I pay for more disk space and bandwidth than I really need just so that no one will be blocked for overuse and I am rather protective of it. And this all started when I was trying to be helpful on an item and my wife, again, was yelling at me because rather than running to the dinner table when called, I was editing another item to put on the site. Gotta change my priorities. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:52 AM To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs John, After 51, 387 persons have visited your site you have received 3 complaints. I believe that could be around 0.00006 per cent of your visitors who have expressed disquiet. That percentage of people who do not have the ability to find either the volume control switch on their speakers or the slider on the computer will not visit your site again. Are you really bothered? Should those 3 dictate to 51,000 plus (the 99.9994 per cent) who haven't complained? If you are e-mailed another 2 times from people who are complaining the sound has gone, will it come back? BIG SMILE Guy R Day From warthodson at aol.com Wed Mar 24 07:03:16 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:03:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de><751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com><751d05481003230728v30928567u4480616e6266aa5c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CC9971E25C719A-1B24-B4B0@webmail-d003.sysops.aol.com> Could the problem have to do with the gear on the "Bendix" being for a different car? Gary -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Willig To: Curt/Nancy Arndt Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 10:29 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor Curt, no problem with preaching! I am from the same congregation that you are. hy buy an old car and then change everything to modern specification. try to keep my cars as near as possible to the technical specification f their time as possible. I totally agree with you that in most cases there are exceptions to the rule) an correctly maintained distributor, tarter, dynamo is up to the job. As all cables have been replaced, the ground strap is in place as it hould be, battery master switch is overhauled, batteries are brand new, tc. etc. I am very confident that there are Lucas starters with dentical housing as the 100, that have less cranking power. So...I am oing to get me an original, rebuildable starter motor. Anyone, maybe someone who preferred to use a modern gear reduction tarter, has a 25221 for sale?? Regards Thomas Willig ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From mkgoodman at att.net Wed Mar 24 07:12:18 2010 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:12:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] John Sims Website Sounds Message-ID: <000a01cacb5c$04d35930$0e7a0b90$@net> I cannot believe that a few of you spoiled the joy of hearing the creative sounds that John Sims placed on his site for the rest of us. Are you so lazy to turn off the sound on your own computers the few times you visit his terrific site? I hope John puts the sounds back up on the site, as I will truly miss them. I am sorry if I upset a few of you by voicing my opinion, but YOU spoiled my day by complaining and causing John to take the sounds off his website. I WANT THEM BACK!!!!! Mark 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From twillig at ruda.de Wed Mar 24 07:17:44 2010 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 15:17:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Starter Motor In-Reply-To: <8CC9971E25C719A-1B24-B4B0@webmail-d003.sysops.aol.com> References: <000801caca02$e665b150$b33113f0$@de><751d05481003221506n6687e437s7e2b61e7cc0d7c6e@mail.gmail.com><751d05481003230728v30928567u4480616e6266aa5c@mail.gmail.com> <8CC9971E25C719A-1B24-B4B0@webmail-d003.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Folks, I will get a original, NOS, starter for the 100 in the next few days. I will take this apart to see if there is a difference to other starters with dimensionally the same housing but different ID-number (used at Triumph, Humber, Jaguar etc.etc.). I hope that this will give a clue. Regards Thomas Willig From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Mar 24 07:22:21 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 14:22:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net>, , <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net>, Message-ID: heh-heh! I have visited the site more than a few times just to hear the engine sound. But, I'm not complaining either way. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > From: grday at btinternet.com > To: ahbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:51:55 +0000 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > > John, > After 51, 387 persons have visited your site you have received 3 complaints. > > I believe that could be around 0.00006 per cent of your visitors who have > expressed disquiet. > That percentage of people who do not have the ability to find either the > volume control switch on their speakers or the slider on the computer will > not visit your site again. Are you really bothered? Should those 3 > dictate to 51,000 plus (the 99.9994 per cent) who haven't complained? > > If you are e-mailed another 2 times from people who are complaining the > sound has gone, will it come back? > > > > BIG SMILE > > Guy R Day > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Sims" > To: "'Guy R Day'" ; > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:15 PM > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Laughs > > > You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. > I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM > To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > > John, > I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? > > Guy R Day > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Sims" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Laughs > > > >I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go > > to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, > > but interesting" link. > > > > For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the > > sound > > files. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca From mgtd51 at comcast.net Wed Mar 24 14:26:25 2010 From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:26:25 -1100 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> Message-ID: <4BAA8381.7040301@comcast.net> John, There are a few helpless people in the world. Don't let them bother you; your site is terrific. Larry Swift John Sims wrote: > You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. > I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM > To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > > John, > I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? > > Guy R Day > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Sims" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Laughs > > > >> I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go >> to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, >> but interesting" link. >> >> For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the >> sound >> files. >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgtd51 at comcast.net From healeyron at yahoo.com Wed Mar 24 07:44:04 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 07:44:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> Message-ID: <905821.2289.qm@web32907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Seems to be a lot of that going around these days. The complaints of a few ruin things for the many. There is a volume control in the lower task bar of most computers. ________________________________ From: John Sims To: Guy R Day ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, March 24, 2010 9:15:37 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs John, I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Laughs >I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go > to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, > but interesting" link. > > For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the > sound > files. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Mar 24 07:51:48 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 15:51:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> Message-ID: <4BAA2704.6020505@chello.nl> John, Do not let them bother you with such trivialities. You have created one of the most, if not the most, formidable and informative site for Austin Healey owners and a lot of owners of other cars. What is more: it is accessable for any moron, very user friendly. My compliments. Kees Oudesluijs NL John Sims schreef: > You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. > I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM > To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > > John, > I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? > > Guy R Day > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Sims" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Laughs > > > >> I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go >> to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, >> but interesting" link. >> >> For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the >> sound >> files. >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.791 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2767 - datum van uitgifte: 03/24/10 08:33:00 From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Mar 24 07:52:46 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 14:52:46 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> Message-ID: <000501cacb61$aab1dd90$001598b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> John, I liked your sounds. Had I not liked them, I would have happily endured them in exchange for access to your most useful site, a real asset. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: 24 March 2010 13:16 To: 'Guy R Day'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs John, I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Laughs >I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go > to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, > but interesting" link. > > For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the > sound > files. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Wed Mar 24 08:05:58 2010 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 10:05:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <905821.2289.qm@web32907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> <905821.2289.qm@web32907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <08c401cacb63$84e2fe30$8ea8fa90$@net> John You have a wonderful site, and do a great service to the Healey community. Put the sound back on. I enjoy "No No you are doing it all wrong" on your tech page. Herb Miller 1962 BT7 Mk II 1967 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:44 AM To: John Sims; Guy R Day; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs Seems to be a lot of that going around these days. The complaints of a few ruin things for the many. There is a volume control in the lower task bar of most computers. ________________________________ From: John Sims To: Guy R Day ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, March 24, 2010 9:15:37 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs John, I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Laughs >I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go > to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, > but interesting" link. > > For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the > sound > files. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net From aon.912808691 at aon.at Wed Mar 24 08:12:26 2010 From: aon.912808691 at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner (aon)) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 16:12:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <4BAA8381.7040301@comcast.net> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net><012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> <4BAA8381.7040301@comcast.net> Message-ID: John, I totally agree that your site is terrific. Personally I don't count myself to the helpless. But I rather prefer sites without compulsory sound. Usually I use the speakers of my computer to listen to net radio, so it is not only turning the volume down. But, don't let us start an endless discussion about yes or no. Reinhart Rosner 1955 AH 100 BN 1 Vienna - Austria -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von MGTD51 Gesendet: Mittwoch, 24. Mdrz 2010 22:26 An: John Sims Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Laughs John, There are a few helpless people in the world. Don't let them bother you; your site is terrific. Larry Swift John Sims wrote: > You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it all off. > I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM > To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > > John, > I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? > > Guy R Day > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Sims" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Laughs > > > >> I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go >> to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, >> but interesting" link. >> >> For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the >> sound >> files. >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgtd51 at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/aon.912808691 at aon.at From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Mar 24 08:27:07 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:27:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <000501cacb61$aab1dd90$001598b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> <000501cacb61$aab1dd90$001598b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <8E2EBBDB-7B7D-4D7B-9240-F0DF714B609B@gmail.com> Sounds like a case of the tail wagging the dog. Vroom vroom I want vroom back I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Mar 24, 2010, at 7:52 AM, "Simon Lachlan" wrote: > John, > I liked your sounds. Had I not liked them, I would have happily > endured them > in exchange for access to your most useful site, a real asset. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of John Sims > Sent: 24 March 2010 13:16 > To: 'Guy R Day'; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > > You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it > all off. > I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:08 AM > To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > > John, > I've lost the sound from your pages. How do I get it back? > > Guy R Day > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Sims" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Laughs > > >> I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a >> laugh, go >> to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British >> Humor, >> but interesting" link. >> >> For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the >> sound >> files. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From robertlarson at att.net Wed Mar 24 08:30:04 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 11:30:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs In-Reply-To: References: <40e8d.eecfbf4.38da34ac@aol.com> <00a001cacaa5$97f32770$c7d97650$@net> <6.2.3.4.2.20100323194708.01fd1f08@pop.att.yahoo.com> <62148.93629.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BAA2FFC.2020501@att.net> Every computer that I have ever used had a software volume control that set the level to the internal speakers or to the jack to the outside world. I can't say on all, but there was also a mute function available. So if I'm using John's site I must be using a mouse or other device for navigation around it. The ability to control the audio from John's site or any other is never more than a few mouse clicks away. I'd vote for putting it back and letting the end user exercise control over it. Bob 55 BN1 On 3/24/2010 8:00 AM, Al Malin wrote: > Me too, I would prefer to not have the sound. > > Using the stereo on/off button would be a pain since I would have to not only > use the one within arm-length but I also have to deal with a stereo on/off > button in the dinning room and a stereo on/off button in the family room. > > You see, I listen to a lot of music via iTunes and internet radio. My > computer is also my juke box from which I Wi-Fi pump the audio to three > locations. Alternatively I could shut down my wireless distribution system > while I visit his site but after a while it becomes bothersome. > > Likewise, this is nothing personal. John provides a great service that is > greatly appreciated by the Healey community. I thank and applaud him for his > efforts. > > Al Malin > Tricarb > > > > On Mar 24, 2010, at 7:07 AM, Ron Mitchell wrote: > > >> Perhaps the on/off button on your speakers is an alternative? >> ________________________________ >> From: john spaur >> To: >> John Sims >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Tue, March 23, >> 2010 10:48:32 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] best way to tighten Knock Offs >> >> John, >> Is there a way to turn off the sound at your web site? If not would you add >> > a > >> button. Nothing personal I would prefer not to have the sound. Otherwise it >> > is > >> a very good site. >> >> Thank you, >> John Spaur >> _______________________________________________ From stephen.white at wku.edu Wed Mar 24 09:30:57 2010 From: stephen.white at wku.edu (stephen white) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 11:30:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] John Sims Website Sounds In-Reply-To: <000a01cacb5c$04d35930$0e7a0b90$@net> References: <000a01cacb5c$04d35930$0e7a0b90$@net> Message-ID: <4BAA3E41.5000802@wku.edu> I agree - totally Mark Goodman wrote: > I cannot believe that a few of you spoiled the joy of hearing the creative > sounds that John Sims placed on his site for the rest of us. Are you so > lazy to turn off the sound on your own computers the few times you visit his > terrific site? I hope John puts the sounds back up on the site, as I will > truly miss them. > > > > I am sorry if I upset a few of you by voicing my opinion, but YOU spoiled my > day by complaining and causing John to take the sounds off his website. > > > > I WANT THEM BACK!!!!! > > > > Mark > > > > 66BJ8 35503 > > www.austinhealeyessence.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/stephen.white at wku.edu From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Wed Mar 24 09:34:35 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 11:34:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] John Sims Website Sounds In-Reply-To: <4BAA3E41.5000802@wku.edu> References: <000a01cacb5c$04d35930$0e7a0b90$@net> <4BAA3E41.5000802@wku.edu> Message-ID: <9baa446a1003240934k79a3003eoc162b143358f09e@mail.gmail.com> bring back da noise!!!! On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 11:30 AM, stephen white wrote: > I agree - totally > > Mark Goodman wrote: > >> I cannot believe that a few of you spoiled the joy of hearing the creative >> sounds that John Sims placed on his site for the rest of us. Are you so >> lazy to turn off the sound on your own computers the few times you visit >> his >> terrific site? I hope John puts the sounds back up on the site, as I will >> truly miss them. >> >> >> I am sorry if I upset a few of you by voicing my opinion, but YOU spoiled >> my >> day by complaining and causing John to take the sounds off his website. >> >> I WANT THEM BACK!!!!! >> >> >> Mark >> >> >> 66BJ8 35503 >> >> www.austinhealeyessence.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/stephen.white at wku.edu >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From rnbmail at yahoo.com Wed Mar 24 09:42:10 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:42:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <013001cacb5a$b01a28c0$104e7a40$@net> Message-ID: <308041.84476.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> John, Thumbs up for your site ..... I am not really a sounds fan, but I know how to turn my sound off. Leave the sound effects on the site, AND, describe at the top of the home page how to turn of the computer sounds for those that really dont like it. Its only a few clicks..... Democracy should win at 99 to 1 and you should be on time for dinner. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Wed, 3/24/10, John Sims wrote: > From: John Sims > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > To: "'Guy R Day'" , healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, March 24, 2010, 7:02 AM > I have a rather thin skin, obviously. > To answer your questions, A little, > No, Yes. > > I guess that proves the old adage that you can not please > everyone. I spend > at least an hour a day on this site and am still around 50 > items behind on > links, articles, etc. that need to be posted. It costs me > several hundred > dollars a year in fees to my provider as I pay for more > disk space and > bandwidth than I really need just so that no one will be > blocked for overuse > and I am rather protective of it. And this all started when > I was trying to > be helpful on an item and my wife, again, was yelling at me > because rather > than running to the dinner table when called, I was editing > another item to > put on the site. Gotta change my priorities. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:52 AM > To: John Sims; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs > > John, > After 51, 387 persons have visited your site you have > received 3 complaints. > > I believe that could be around 0.00006 per cent of your > visitors who have > expressed disquiet. > That percentage of people who do not have the ability to > find either the > volume control switch on their speakers or the slider on > the computer will > not visit your site again. Are you really > bothered? Should those 3 > dictate to 51,000 plus (the 99.9994 per cent) who haven't > complained? > > If you are e-mailed another 2 times from people who are > complaining the > sound has gone, will it come back? > > > > BIG SMILE > > Guy R Day > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Mar 24 10:21:33 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 17:21:33 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] freeze, welch, core plug query. Message-ID: <000f01cacb76$741393e0$5c3abba0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> We tend to call them core plugs in UK, but they're the same things whatever they're called! We are talking about a 3000, MkII BT7.......... So, how many plugs are there on the back of the engine? (Transmission end) Are they accessible with the (centre shift) tunnel removed? Easily accessible or, typically, visible but tauntingly just out of practicable range? Thanks, Simon. From eorr at cogeco.ca Wed Mar 24 10:29:15 2010 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:29:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal Message-ID: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> Listers I have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the large dog nut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is presently up on stands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 yesterday then Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large Cresent wrench on the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no signs of movement anyone have a better solution . Ed Orr -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From eorr at cogeco.ca Wed Mar 24 10:59:30 2010 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:59:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal References: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> Message-ID: <2B6C60920EC7483E807A4E887295C30B@HP29887285263> By the way my car is a BJ8 Ed Orr ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Orr" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal > Listers > I have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the large > dog > nut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is presently up on > stands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 yesterday > then Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large Cresent > wrench > on the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no signs of > movement anyone have a better solution . > > Ed Orr > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. > SPAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Professional version does not have this message > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed Mar 24 11:29:41 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 11:29:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <2B6C60920EC7483E807A4E887295C30B@HP29887285263> References: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> <2B6C60920EC7483E807A4E887295C30B@HP29887285263> Message-ID: <007801cacb7f$f7e49bc0$e7add340$@ca> I used a socket with lots of leverage (car in gear with handbrake on.......tough to get one on because of the "ears" on the nut. Somebody made a suggestion a while ogo of grinding the ears off to make it easier in the future....good idea. If you can get at it without damaging the damper, I would try grinding the ears to get a better hold of the nut. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Orr Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal By the way my car is a BJ8 Ed Orr ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Orr" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal > Listers > I have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the large > dog > nut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is presently up on > stands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 yesterday > then Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large Cresent > wrench > on the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no signs of > movement anyone have a better solution . > > Ed Orr > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. > SPAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Professional version does not have this message > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From rkorn at simnet.is Wed Mar 24 11:33:36 2010 From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 18:33:36 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> Message-ID: <0CFF66192AA34B91ABD44219ED72282D@velad> John, funny that, I almost always have the volume off when I get on line so it was with great pleasure when I went on your site just the other day and heard all those wonderful sounds for the First time. Do put them back up. When people complain about nonsense , well...someday I4d like to meet Ed.. Richard BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Laughs >I usually do not post this type of information, but if you want a laugh, go > to the British Humor page on my site and click on the "Not British Humor, > but interesting" link. > > For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the > sound > files. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rkorn at simnet.is From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Mar 24 12:18:04 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 15:18:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <2B6C60920EC7483E807A4E887295C30B@HP29887285263> References: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> <2B6C60920EC7483E807A4E887295C30B@HP29887285263> Message-ID: Hi Ed, I found giving the crescent wrench a good blow seemed to get things started. The starter trick didn't work for me. Stephen, BJ8 From dan at warner-associates.com Wed Mar 24 13:05:28 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 15:05:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <634EBA739229452FBD834771F7350D09@DANSTROM> Am impact wrench is what my shop used. I recall a discussion on this some months back so check the archives. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 2:18 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal Hi Ed, I found giving the crescent wrench a good blow seemed to get things started. The starter trick didn't work for me. Stephen, BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From adamnolde at yahoo.com Wed Mar 24 13:14:15 2010 From: adamnolde at yahoo.com (Adam Nolde) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:14:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wheel/Tire Sizes for BN6 with Drum Brakes Message-ID: <591994.1379.qm@web110813.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> All, I am in serious need of help. I'm setting up my drum brake BN6 for racing. I'm realizing there is an issue with the fitment of the wheels and tires. Currently the car has 4"x15" 48 spoke wheels with 165/80 rubber. We have removed the front spring and jacked the suspension up until the tire is inside the fender. There is less then 1/4" of room on the outside of the tire wall for clearance. However, on the inside of the wheel well I have enough room to park a blimp. I am seeing that everything is offset toward the outside of the car to accommodate the brake drums. Hendrix suggested the Dayton 459 5"x15" 72 spoke wheel, which they generally sell for BN1-2's with drum brakes. It has a 3.38" offset. Does anyone have experience with 5" wheels on a drum brake BN6, if so, which wheels are you using and what size rubber can you fit? Does it make sense to use the same width and offset both front and rear, or can I get an advantage going to 5.5" rear wheel? I am also hoping to lower my suspension a little to make things even more difficult. Regards, adam nolde HBJ8L30805 BN6L 2795 From bighealey3k at aim.com Wed Mar 24 13:20:20 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 16:20:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> References: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> Message-ID: <8CC99A68F53CD77-464-77D9@webmail-m073.sysops.aol.com> Ed, I've done it twice and the first time I set the parking brake, put the trans. in first gear and used a 1/2 " drive socket and breaker bar with a pipe on it long enough to rise above the rocker cover and with my brother pulling on one side and me pushing on the other side. With the crank shaft and transmision and drive shaft all winding up, it was a knuckle buster when it let loose. Ouch! The second time I removed the nut, I rented an electric impact wench, because I didn't have an air compressor, and it worked very well with out all the stress of the wind up. I did have to unbolt the engine mounts from the frame and jack up the front of the engine enough for the socket to clear the front frame and of course removed the radiator. Removing the radiator would make it easier to get the front cover off anyway. Hope that helps. You might have to remove the air cleaners so they don't hit the shroud when jacking the engine up if I remember right. It has been several years since. Larry 67 BJ8 P.S. I also tried the starter and a block of wood along with the socket and breaker bar without any success. -----Original Message----- From: Ed Orr To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Mar 24, 2010 1:29 pm Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal Listers have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the large dog ut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is presently up on tands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 yesterday hen Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large Cresent wrench n the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no signs of ovement anyone have a better solution . Ed Orr -- am using the free version of SPAMfighter. e are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. PAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. et the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Mar 24 13:35:41 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 16:35:41 EDT Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand Message-ID: <2c632.25436017.38dbd19d@aol.com> I will be traveling to New Zealand tomorrow and will end up down on the south end, Dunedin to be exact and was wondering if there are any Healey folks down there. I will be in town from the 27th through the 31st of March. My daughter goes to college there and we'll be running around seeing the sights, so if there's anything Healey related going on, let me know and we'll try and stop by and take a look. Thanks in advance to any information. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 24 13:51:01 2010 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:51:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] "Overdrive Pump Pressure Gauge" Message-ID: <661092.74284.qm@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Greetings John, I just noticed your web site article titled as above and see you used the photo from my web site showing the 3 types of overdrive oil pressure gauges I produce and sell - looks good . The link you have to my OD Oil Pressure Gauge web site is no longer active since geocities folded last year: http://www.geocities.com/jholekamp/index.html The correct, current link to my OD Oil Pressure Gauge site is: http://webspace.webring.com/people/tj/jholekamp/ I'd be grateful if you'd make the link correction. brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 PS: I like the sounds! From prattri at msn.com Wed Mar 24 14:04:59 2010 From: prattri at msn.com (Richard Pratt) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 17:04:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> Message-ID: Ed, My experience is that you must use a socket, breaker bar and a length of pipe as a cheater. There should be about 400 ft-lb on the nut. Mark the nut and damper (punch marks) before you remove the nut so you can get it back to the original marks to assure proper torque. Also you will have to drop the pan and use a block of wood against the crank throw to prevent movement of the crank as you loosen and tighten the bolt. You will have to raise the engine to get the socket on the bolt and to remove the damper. As such I have used a piece of 2X4 under the motor mounts and c-clamps to prevent the engine from rolling as you torque the bolt. Richard -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Orr Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal Listers I have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the large dog nut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is presently up on stands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 yesterday then Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large Cresent wrench on the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no signs of movement anyone have a better solution . Ed Orr -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/prattri at msn.com From rjswain at hotmail.com Wed Mar 24 14:09:53 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 21:09:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> References: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> Message-ID: Ed The large crescent wrench has worked for me - twice in fact. Both times it was inadvertent - I had been using a crescent wrench to move the crank to set the timing and went on to something else, forgetting it was there. A loud clunk when I started the car reminded me where I had left the wrench. I had previously ground off the ears on the nut. Rick '59 BN4 (I seem to remember that's what I have but I'm getting a bit forgetful) > Listers > I have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the large dog > nut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is presently up on > stands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 yesterday > then Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large Cresent wrench > on the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no signs of > movement anyone have a better solution . > > Ed Orr _________________________________________________________________ IM on the go with Messenger on your phone http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9712960 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Mar 24 15:18:55 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 18:18:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> References: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> Message-ID: <73A72D3ED6574358B69FA0C7033353FD@LIFEBOOK> Ed, Remove the radiator, raise the engine slightly to have a clear path to the nut, then with the locking washer flattened, use an air or electric impact driver on it's highest torque setting. It will pop free almost right away without having to resort to long bars, etc. that can only damage things if or when they let go. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ed Orr" Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:29 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal > Listers > I have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the large > dog > nut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is presently up on > stands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 yesterday > then Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large Cresent > wrench > on the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no signs of > movement anyone have a better solution . > > Ed Orr > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. > SPAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Professional version does not have this message > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From robertlarson at att.net Wed Mar 24 15:54:10 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 18:54:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <73A72D3ED6574358B69FA0C7033353FD@LIFEBOOK> References: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> <73A72D3ED6574358B69FA0C7033353FD@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <4BAA9812.9080103@att.net> See a Vet?? Bob From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Mar 24 16:10:13 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 18:10:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Sound Off In-Reply-To: <0CFF66192AA34B91ABD44219ED72282D@velad> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <0CFF66192AA34B91ABD44219ED72282D@velad> Message-ID: <979FEFEDFD45460995B575560B671561@GregPC> I have not met Mr. Sims but have visited his site often and found it to be a wonderful service to the list and the Healey community, had them put it in the "tech links" section of my local Healey club. Anyhoo, I have no strong opinion about sound on the site, but I do know that sometimes volunteers who provide services do not like being yanked around by those who get the service and sometimes just decide it isn't worth the trouble. So I am a little concerned with all the "bring the sound back" requests which I am sure were meant as well meaning support, but if the conversation goes on: Bring the sound back Bring the sound back Turn the sound off Turn the sound off On On On Off Off Off I hope Mr. Sims does not decide it is too much bother and pulls the plug. John I am not suggesting you are thin skinned and have no idea if you would ever do this, but I have seen lots of people who volunteer and provide nice services and information get tired of nitpickers who are never happy and simply decide it is not worth the trouble. Mr. Sims shut the sound off, maybe he didn't really want to, but I would bet he wants even less to have to deal with the issue over and over again ad infinitum, lets just keep giving him good information to add to the site and hope he keeps adding to it and hosting it. A formula that has served us well for a number of years. Greg Lemon From dwflagg at juno.com Wed Mar 24 16:39:25 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:39:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NOS Lucas Ignition Switch Message-ID: <20100324.164016.994.50419@mailpop01.dca.untd.com> I have an NOS Lucas 31403 ignition switch that is correct for the 100 - BJ7. Also, have a new FS 955 tumbler with two keys, made by WBH in England. Looks just like the Lucas, except the key number is not on the tumbler face. The keys have the later BJ8 shape. If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Hotel Hotel pics, info and virtual tours. Click here to book a hotel online. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=bBEgumgUW0_T91EcscqLUwAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATRAAAAAA= From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Mar 24 16:54:44 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 18:54:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <4BAA9812.9080103@att.net> Message-ID: <20100324185444.1KV70.718012.root@ispmxfep12-z02> Thanks---I needed that!!:):) ---- Bob wrote: ============= See a Vet?? Bob _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Mar 24 17:12:25 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 16:12:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?dog_nut_removal_-_home_style?= Message-ID: <20100325001225.28178.qmail@hoster902.com> The following is a really simple setup made of wood and EMT tubing that worked fine for me without access to an air wrench. http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/93312770 -- Steve Gerow BN6 From shop at justbrits.com Wed Mar 24 17:56:15 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:56:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BAAB4AF.9060801@justbrits.com> << Mark the nut and damper (punch marks) before you remove the nut so you can get it back to the original marks to assure proper torque. >> That method will only give you APPROXIMATE correct torque, Richard !! Thread/bolt/nut 'stretch' will automatically ALTER the 'torque' of ALL fasteners. Ed From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Mar 24 19:25:01 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:25:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal In-Reply-To: <73A72D3ED6574358B69FA0C7033353FD@LIFEBOOK> References: <73091A39EAD949419F766DB861B3F141@HP29887285263> <73A72D3ED6574358B69FA0C7033353FD@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <8EB84B2B-4D64-439C-B841-8085BD671BCB@cox.net> Which way does that turn to loosen? On Mar 24, 2010, at 3:18 PM, Rich C wrote: > Ed, > > Remove the radiator, raise the engine slightly to have a clear path > to the nut, then with the locking washer flattened, use an air or > electric impact driver on it's highest torque setting. It will pop > free almost right away without having to resort to long bars, etc. > that can only damage things if or when they let go. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Ed Orr" > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 1:29 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Dog Nut Removal > >> Listers >> I have an oil leak from the front oil seal and trying to remove the >> large dog >> nut on the end of the crankshaft to get at it . The car is >> presently up on >> stands . Have bent back the locking washer and sprayed with WD40 >> yesterday >> then Liquid wrench today I tried to break it loose with a large >> Cresent wrench >> on the nut and blipping the starter about a dozen times with no >> signs of >> movement anyone have a better solution . >> >> Ed Orr >> >> -- >> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. >> We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. >> SPAMfighter has removed 3303 of my spam emails to date. >> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len >> >> The Professional version does not have this message >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 24 19:41:28 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 22:41:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Big Healey Thanks Message-ID: <002c01cacbc4$ac4b3940$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I am just finishing up my ten year ground up Healey restoration and have now come to the infamous door/ scuttle seals. Wow what a hoot. Some of the indepth, creative design technology that went into these cars, floors me. These seals along with the trafficator took a huge amount of thought , not to mention man hours to create and design. I would like to give a big thanks to Rich Chrysler for his never ending explanations of these infamous Healeyisms and also to John Simms for his web sight where we can all go and get this information on how these antiquated contraptions originally went back together. There is no way in hell I could have figured these contraptions out without the help of these 2 gentlemen. Richs' last explanation of the door seal install was dead on and is going together slowly but correctly on my car. So a Big Healey thanks to these 2 guys as well as you others who have helped along the way these last 10 plus years. Its gonna be a great summer, Thanks, Mark From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Mar 24 19:42:57 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 02:42:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?clutch_problem?= Message-ID: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> i only have about 1500 miles on the bn6, but have noticed it seems to be getting harder to shift, the clutch begins to engage as soon as i lift my foot, and the pedal must go clear to the floor to disenge. the pedal actually stops about a half inch from the floorboard when depressed. everything is new except clutch fork, pushrod and pin. just a little slop at fork when clutch is not depressed. any ideas on where to start looking for a fix. hjim From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 24 20:07:26 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 11:07:26 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] clutch problem In-Reply-To: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Sounds to me like you need to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. What happens when you pump the clutch, does it work better? You may need to check your clutch lines for an air leak. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Mar 25, 2010 at 10:42 AM, wrote: > i only have about 1500 miles on the bn6, but have noticed it seems to be > getting harder to shift, the clutch begins to engage as soon as i lift my > foot, and the pedal must go clear to the floor to disenge. the pedal > actually stops about a half inch from the floorboard when depressed. > everything is new except clutch fork, pushrod and pin. just a little slop > at fork when clutch is not depressed. any ideas on where to start looking > for a fix. hjim From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Mar 24 20:15:57 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 03:15:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?dog_nut_removal?= Message-ID: <20100325031557.12655.qmail@server278.com> i have taken some off with a breaker bar and socket after soaking in PB blaster for a few days. i have also had to use a cold chisel and big hammer to get the nut to break loose. rewelded and filed the nut down after the destruction and painted it. looked good. hjim From 55healey at comcast.net Wed Mar 24 20:26:19 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 20:26:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <012f01cacb54$18d3b720$4a7b2560$@net> Message-ID: <1BC04AF8-9296-4B42-A8BA-77DE85914F90@comcast.net> Sad Day John, Your snippets were a delight and always elicited a chuckle every time I visited your site. They will be missed. Sad when a very few can spoil something for everyone else. (Can you do them in brail?) Keep up the great work. Rob Westcott On Mar 24, 2010, at 6:15 AM, John Sims wrote: > You can not. Too many complaints (three and counting) so I took it > all off. > I guess that even the 2 to 3 second snippets were too much for some. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 24 20:33:21 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 11:33:21 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Guns - Broads - Wheels Message-ID: Need I say more? http://www.life.com/image/ugc1034972/in-gallery/41172/steve-mcqueen-20-never-seen-photos Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From bruce_griffin at earthlink.net Wed Mar 24 20:48:48 2010 From: bruce_griffin at earthlink.net (Bruce Griffin) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 23:48:48 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] 3000 BT-7 Top Bow for Trade Message-ID: <28902150.1269488929065.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Gentlemen, I purchased an early BT-7 (#1453) last year and am getting around to putting a hood on it. The top frame that came with it is for the later BT-7 (after #1529) and the previous owner had problems fitting a top (no top came with the car). I figure I can buy a top for the later model and it will work, but I am hoping someone needs this frame and I can buy or trade for the earlier correct one. The frame I have appears to have been purchased in the 80's and never used (reciept was in the paperwork), it is in perfect shape, paint still shiny. It appears the first 1,528 BT-7's used the same frame as the late BN-4 with the legs that seat in the side bent sharply out for the bottom 9 inches. Anyone have an extra one of these frames to sell? Anyone know someone who has both and would trade for a few extra dollars? Any help appreciated. I have a picture of both if it helps. Best Regards, Bruce D. Griffin From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Mar 24 20:54:17 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:54:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?BJ8_suspension_thoughts?= Message-ID: <20100325035417.9708.qmail@hoster902.com> I always thought it was cheap of BMC to get rid of the panhard rod on the BJ8. However, when I installed my BJ8 radius arms on my car, I noticed they're quite rigid in sideways motion. Since my car has front mounts per Mike Salter's AHX-12 design which will flex sideways but not other directions, it still requires the panhard rod. The front and rear radius arm mounts on the BJ8 are rigid in a sideways direction, therefore I would assume the BJ8 axle has little tendency to shift sideways. Ditto the Sprite which has a similar radius arm design. I wonder if anyone's tried moving the BJ8 axle sideways with the radius arms attached but the springs disconnected. Enquiring minds want to know. Hey - _who_ has too much time on their hands? Not me. -- Steve Gerow BN6 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Mar 24 21:19:17 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 04:19:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?dog_nut_removal?= Message-ID: <20100325041917.12737.qmail@server278.com> ed, after the vet has done his work and the nut is off, take a close look at the harmonic balancer and pulley. if you see a groove where it slides into the seal, you will have to polish it out or put a stainless steel sleeve over it. if you put a new seal in and that groove is still there, the new seal will begin to leak toot sweet. ask me how i know. hjim From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 24 22:33:56 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 22:33:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wing nuts - sidecurtain/hardtop Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100324222902.0206b380@pop.att.yahoo.com> Are the nuts the same or different? I only have the side curtain one and need the hardtop ones for a restoration. TIA, John Spaur '62 BT7 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 24 22:54:27 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 22:54:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs In-Reply-To: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100324224114.02031160@pop.att.yahoo.com> Hi John, As you know I am one of the people that emailed to request that you add a "Button" to conveniently turn off the sound. That is because it is difficult to adjust the sound on my Windows PC due to MicroF*** XP OS issues. I did not ask for you to turn it off; only to add a button to make it easier to turn off, if you could. I don't create websites so I don't know how difficult it is to do. I did compliment you on website and, if people want sound I will just deal with it because it is a wonderful resource. John 3/24/2010 -0400, John Sims wrote: >For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the sound >files. > >John Sims, BN6 >Aberdeen, NJ From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed Mar 24 23:16:49 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 23:16:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] clutch problem In-Reply-To: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <000a01cacbe2$c151c750$43f555f0$@ca> it's a hydraulic problem....nothing to do with clutch fork. Bleed and try again.....have a look at the hose going into the slave and see if damaged or pinched. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 7:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] clutch problem i only have about 1500 miles on the bn6, but have noticed it seems to be getting harder to shift, the clutch begins to engage as soon as i lift my foot, and the pedal must go clear to the floor to disenge. the pedal actually stops about a half inch from the floorboard when depressed. everything is new except clutch fork, pushrod and pin. just a little slop at fork when clutch is not depressed. any ideas on where to start looking for a fix. hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Mar 24 23:30:35 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 06:30:35 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Freeze, welch, core plug query. Message-ID: <001701cacbe4$adb73ed0$0925bc70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Any ideas on this one, posted earlier..... We are talking about a 3000, MkII BT7.......... So, how many plugs are there on the back of the engine? (Transmission end) Are they accessible with the (centre shift) tunnel removed? Easily accessible or, typically, visible but tauntingly just out of practicable range? Thanks, Simon. _______________________________________________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Mar 25 01:40:38 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 09:40:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] clutch problem In-Reply-To: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4BAB2186.2040701@chello.nl> Bleed the clutch again and check for leaks. Kees Oudesluijs NL healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef: > i only have about 1500 miles on the bn6, but have noticed it seems to be getting harder to shift, the clutch begins to engage as soon as i lift my foot, and the pedal must go clear to the floor to disenge. the pedal actually stops about a half inch from the floorboard when depressed. everything is new except clutch fork, pushrod and pin. just a little slop at fork when clutch is not depressed. any ideas on where to start looking for a fix. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Mar 25 03:17:14 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 06:17:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wing nuts - sidecurtain/hardtop In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100324222902.0206b380@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100324222902.0206b380@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BAB382A.3080807@earthlink.net> John, They're different. The side curtain nuts are chrome plated steel, the hard top nuts are anodized aluminum. Bob john spaur wrote: > Are the nuts the same or different? > > I only have the side curtain one and need the hardtop ones for a > restoration. > > TIA, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Mar 25 03:54:18 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 06:54:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Freeze, welch, core plug query. In-Reply-To: <001701cacbe4$adb73ed0$0925bc70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <001701cacbe4$adb73ed0$0925bc70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <4BAB40DA.2000104@earthlink.net> Simon, Two plugs (different sizes). I haven't tried to replace either one with the engine installed in the car, so I don't know if they're accessible enough or not. Would think that getting the old ones out would be the fun part. Installing the new ones looks okay. Bob Simon Lachlan wrote: > Any ideas on this one, posted earlier..... > > We are talking about a 3000, MkII BT7.......... > So, how many plugs are there on the back of the engine? (Transmission end) > Are they accessible with the (centre shift) tunnel removed? > Easily accessible or, typically, visible but tauntingly just out of > practicable range? > Thanks, > Simon. From rpschauss at gmail.com Thu Mar 25 03:58:37 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 06:58:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] clutch problem In-Reply-To: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100325024257.10336.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <3638ca1f1003250358v56563cbej3031374246063816@mail.gmail.com> I had a similar problem and found that the hole in the master cylinder pushrod where the clutch pedal linkage attached was worn to almost double the original size. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 10:42 PM, wrote: > i only have about 1500 miles on the bn6, but have noticed it seems to be getting harder to shift, the clutch begins to engage as soon as i lift my foot, and the pedal must go clear to the floor to disenge. the pedal actually stops about a half inch from the floorboard when depressed. everything is new except clutch fork, pushrod and pin. just a little slop at fork when clutch is not depressed. any ideas on where to start looking for a fix. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss at gmail.com From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Mar 25 04:39:24 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:39:24 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand In-Reply-To: <2c632.25436017.38dbd19d@aol.com> References: <2c632.25436017.38dbd19d@aol.com> Message-ID: <4617DBED62664D5495C978CCBCB3F67E@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Steven I am not in NZ, but you could have a look at www.austinhealey.org.nz or drop a note to mechenmj at xtra.co.nz the address for Martin Mechen the editor of their magazine "Healey Torque". Best wishes Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sent: Thursday, 25 March 2010 7:36 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand I will be traveling to New Zealand tomorrow and will end up down on the south end, Dunedin to be exact and was wondering if there are any Healey folks down there. I will be in town from the 27th through the 31st of March. My daughter goes to college there and we'll be running around seeing the sights, so if there's anything Healey related going on, let me know and we'll try and stop by and take a look. Thanks in advance to any information. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Thu Mar 25 07:20:23 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 14:20:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Guns - Broads - Wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: They should have changed the title after you saw the pictures!? ;) ( because they had then been seen. ) That set me off looking for the model of that pistol. I satisfied myself that it's not a Python or Diamondback, but I don't know what it is. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > Need I say more? > > http://www.life.com/image/ugc1034972/in-gallery/41172/steve-mcqueen-20-never- seen-photos > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Mar 25 07:21:02 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 07:21:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Laughs Message-ID: <4bab7150.0d0db80a.31f7.4c0a@mx.google.com> John you can set the sound to play once and not loop. Contact me off list. For you with win xp sound icon is in lower right corner or just turn off speakers I Erbs sent from my PDA -----Original Message----- From: john spaur Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:54 PM To: John Sims Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laughs Hi John, As you know I am one of the people that emailed to request that you add a "Button" to conveniently turn off the sound. That is because it is difficult to adjust the sound on my Windows PC due to MicroF*** XP OS issues. I did not ask for you to turn it off; only to add a button to make it easier to turn off, if you could. I don't create websites so I don't know how difficult it is to do. I did compliment you on website and, if people want sound I will just deal with it because it is a wonderful resource. John 3/24/2010 -0400, John Sims wrote: >For those who can not adjust their speaker volume, I have deleted the sound >files. > >John Sims, BN6 >Aberdeen, NJ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From ampole at hotmail.com Thu Mar 25 08:10:31 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 15:10:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] freeze, welch, core plug query. In-Reply-To: <000f01cacb76$741393e0$5c3abba0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000f01cacb76$741393e0$5c3abba0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: Simon this pic might help, 3 plugs, two in block and one in head, I think there is also one under the backplate. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ Send us your Hotmail stories and be featured in our newsletter http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] From alexmm at roadrunner.com Thu Mar 25 08:21:37 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 11:21:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 BT-7 Top Bow for Trade References: <28902150.1269488929065.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3406491AE31742A480B1F823D6A46BE2@atc0f226cd3237> Hi Bruce, My BT7 is #9520, and the top bow I have here is not correct for this car. I don't know if it's missing a bow (it has only two) or might be the correct one for your car. If the latter is the case, maybe we could trade. Or, if what I have is totally incorrect and missing a bow I might be interested in yours. Do you have any photos? == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Griffin" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:48 PM Subject: [Healeys] 3000 BT-7 Top Bow for Trade > Gentlemen, > > I purchased an early BT-7 (#1453) last year and am getting around to > putting a hood on it. The top frame that came with it is for the later > BT-7 (after #1529) and the previous owner had problems fitting a top (no > top came with the car). I figure I can buy a top for the later model and > it will work, but I am hoping someone needs this frame and I can buy or > trade for the earlier correct one. The frame I have appears to have been > purchased in the 80's and never used (reciept was in the paperwork), it is > in perfect shape, paint still shiny. It appears the first 1,528 BT-7's > used the same frame as the late BN-4 with the legs that seat in the side > bent sharply out for the bottom 9 inches. Anyone have an extra one of > these frames to sell? Anyone know someone who has both and would trade for > a few extra dollars? Any help appreciated. I have a picture of both if it > helps. > > Best Regards, > Bruce D. Griffin [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From rjswain at hotmail.com Thu Mar 25 08:46:37 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 15:46:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] First Drive (of the Season) Message-ID: I finally got the Healey out this morning and started it for the first time this season. This winter I got my distributor rebuilt by Advanced Distributors http://www.advanceddistributors.com/. The distributor and vacuum advance came back looking like new. At the same time Jeff installed a Pertronix ignition. I started the car, then adjusted the timing (didn't forget the wrench on the dog nut this time) and took the car for its first drive. All I can say is Ohmigawd!!! Well I can say more and here it is - the car has been transformed. It feels like I have a different engine! I wasn't unhappy with the performance before but this is a revelation. The car is noticeably smoother, accelerates quicker and feels much stronger. It's the best thing I've done for the car, performance wise. No financial interest etc, etc. I'm a very satisfied customer and a firm believer in what Jeff at Advanced Distributors can do for a British car. Jeff is a great guy to talk to and frankly his work is a bargain. Rick ps - Obviously the first drive was great. Now I just have to get the new exhaust system installed. _________________________________________________________________ IM on the go with Messenger on your phone http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9712960 From f9cougar at yahoo.com Thu Mar 25 08:55:20 2010 From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 08:55:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 suspension thoughts In-Reply-To: <20100325035417.9708.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <22290.81825.qm@web112007.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I shall leave work and go try it. Back to you in 2 hours or less - JRC --- On Wed, 3/24/10, Steve B. Gerow wrote: From: Steve B. Gerow Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 suspension thoughts To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Date: Wednesday, March 24, 2010, 8:54 PM I always thought it was cheap of BMC to get rid of the panhard rod on the BJ8. However, when I installed my BJ8 radius arms on my car, I noticed they're quite rigid in sideways motion. Since my car has front mounts per Mike Salter's AHX-12 design which will flex sideways but not other directions, it still requires the panhard rod. The front and rear radius arm mounts on the BJ8 are rigid in a sideways direction, therefore I would assume the BJ8 axle has little tendency to shift sideways. Ditto the Sprite which has a similar radius arm design. I wonder if anyone's tried moving the BJ8 axle sideways with the radius arms attached but the springs disconnected. Enquiring minds want to know. Hey - _who_ has too much time on their hands? Not me. -- Steve Gerow BN6 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f9cougar at yahoo.com From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Mar 25 14:41:12 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 21:41:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?clutch_problem?= Message-ID: <20100325214112.5953.qmail@server278.com> found the problem. after two more bleeds to no avail, finally took the tunnel off to see the slave cylinder. took the rubber cup off the cylinder and depressed the clutch pedal as far as possible. i could see the slave piston come back until it hit the little spring that holds it in. did a close inspection of the pushrod and could see some elongation of the hole. welded about an 1/8 inch on the end of the rod and smoothed it off. noticed the pedal going closer to the floor so figured i was on right track. replaced tunnel and seats and did a test drive. it was smooth and no problems shifting. my fault for not replacing the push rod. will order new one and pop it in. thanks for the help. hjim From eorr at cogeco.ca Thu Mar 25 15:23:18 2010 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 18:23:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dog nut removal References: <20100325041917.12737.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Many thanks to the dozen responders to the dog nut delema . Bob Yule and Rich Chrysler suggested an impact wrench (I borrowed one from Head and Block in Stoney Creek , great guys) it worked like a charm , the nut came off with ease . Incidently the WD40 and liquid wrench had done there job the whole crank and nut were wet inside . However the nut now has no threads left in it , not a problem I have another , the crank threads are another story , about 80% of the threads are damaged , about 1/4" nearest the block are still OK . Could someone tell me the thread size so I could try chaseing the threads . What is the proper torque for the dog nut in ft lbs I cannot find it in the BMC Workshop Manual . Ed Orr '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 12:19 AM Subject: [Healeys] dog nut removal > ed, after the vet has done his work and the nut is off, take a close look > at the harmonic balancer and pulley. if you see a groove where it slides > into the seal, you will have to polish it out or put a stainless steel > sleeve over it. if you put a new seal in and that groove is still there, > the new seal will begin to leak toot sweet. ask me how i know. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 3304 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Thu Mar 25 15:48:31 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 23:48:31 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration Message-ID: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Hi all, For anyone that might be interested I made a slide show of a complete restoration of a MKI. You can watch it on Youtube on the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjV6mmbqY8M Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Mar 25 16:28:07 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 18:28:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Message-ID: <20100325182807.NXPFH.728575.root@ispmxfep14-z01> My oh My! What a magnificant restoration! Loved your presentation and the music. Thanks for sharing./ tom ---- Magnus Karlsson wrote: ============= Hi all, For anyone that might be interested I made a slide show of a complete restoration of a MKI. You can watch it on Youtube on the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjV6mmbqY8M Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Mar 25 16:30:11 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:30:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dog nut removal In-Reply-To: References: <20100325041917.12737.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4BABF203.1060505@earthlink.net> Ed, I measure 1"-20 tpi, a standard thread (UNEF). A die is available from MSC Supply (http://www.mscdirect.com). Item # 3939204 - $47.76. Bob Ed Orr wrote: > Many thanks to the dozen responders to the dog nut delema . Bob Yule and > Rich Chrysler suggested an impact wrench (I borrowed one from Head and > Block in Stoney Creek , great guys) it worked like a charm , the nut > came off with ease . Incidently the WD40 and liquid wrench had done > there job the whole crank and nut were wet inside . > > However the nut now has no threads left in it , not a problem I have > another , the crank threads are another story , about 80% of the threads > are damaged , about 1/4" nearest the block are still OK . > > Could someone tell me the thread size so I could try chaseing the threads . > > What is the proper torque for the dog nut in ft lbs I cannot find it in > the BMC Workshop Manual . > > > > Ed Orr > '67 BJ8 > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 12:19 AM > Subject: [Healeys] dog nut removal > > >> ed, after the vet has done his work and the nut is off, take a close >> look at the harmonic balancer and pulley. if you see a groove where >> it slides into the seal, you will have to polish it out or put a >> stainless steel sleeve over it. if you put a new seal in and that >> groove is still there, the new seal will begin to leak toot sweet. >> ask me how i know. hjim >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Mar 25 16:36:00 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 16:36:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> References: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Message-ID: <515788.67074.qm@web32907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Great job on the video. Interesting Tri-Carb Setup. What size SU's and where did you get the manifolds with the rear carb angle up away from the steering column. It doesn't look my Tri_Carb Setup. Ron ________________________________ From: Magnus Karlsson To: Healey Lista Sent: Thu, March 25, 2010 6:48:31 PM Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration Hi all, For anyone that might be interested I made a slide show of a complete restoration of a MKI. You can watch it on Youtube on the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjV6mmbqY8M Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From mark at bradakis.com Thu Mar 25 16:51:23 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:51:23 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <20100325182807.NXPFH.728575.root@ispmxfep14-z01> References: <20100325182807.NXPFH.728575.root@ispmxfep14-z01> Message-ID: <4BABF6FB.4070606@bradakis.com> Tom Felts wrote: > My oh My! What a magnificant restoration! Loved your presentation and the music. Music ??? Boy, *I'll* never go to that site and - oh, wait a minute, never mind. mjb. From price at advocateadvisors.com Thu Mar 25 17:24:34 2010 From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:24:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> References: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Message-ID: Magnus - What a great video and restoration!! Great job! Price Lindsay (630) 841-6300 M (312) 753-7706 T Sent from my iPhone On Mar 25, 2010, at 6:16 PM, "Magnus Karlsson" wrote: > Hi all, > > For anyone that might be interested I made a slide show of a complete > restoration of a MKI. > You can watch it on Youtube on the following link: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjV6mmbqY8M > > Magnus Karlsson > > www.concourshealeys.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/price at advocateadvisors.com From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Thu Mar 25 17:25:27 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:25:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 suspension thoughts Message-ID: <752899.35124.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The panhard rod was detrimental in the handling of the car on the early year suspension design. On the early cars, the rear springs ran parallel and the rod was used to hold the rear axle stationary - to limit the side movement of the rear axle. The suspension also needed to be softened because the chassis was flexing too much . This resulted in the axle travel up and down to be increased. This design caused the panhard rod on hard cornering to pull the car into a spin out. The design was used for cars up to the BJ7 and early BJ8- 1964. On the BJ8 65 and newer design, although chassis rigidity was still a problem Healey realized by toeing the springs in at the front, the rear end would be stable eliminating the panhard rod.Due to the fact the chassis problems were not resolved , soft springs were still used and as a result the increase horsepower caused the springs to windup -going into a S pattern. To resolve this problem the radius arms were installed. Radius arms do not offer any assistance in the side movement of the rear axle. A better design would have been a Watts link. Remember stiffening the suspension on an original chassis will only increase the bad behaviour of the chassis because it is not rigid. If you replicate the original design you will not resolve the original problems. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Wed, 3/24/10, Steve B. Gerow wrote: From: Steve B. Gerow Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 suspension thoughts To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Received: Wednesday, March 24, 2010, 11:54 PM I always thought it was cheap of BMC to get rid of the panhard rod on the BJ8. However, when I installed my BJ8 radius arms on my car, I noticed they're quite rigid in sideways motion. Since my car has front mounts per Mike Salter's AHX-12 design which will flex sideways but not other directions, it still requires the panhard rod. The front and rear radius arm mounts on the BJ8 are rigid in a sideways direction, therefore I would assume the BJ8 axle has little tendency to shift sideways. Ditto the Sprite which has a similar radius arm design. I wonder if anyone's tried moving the BJ8 axle sideways with the radius arms attached but the springs disconnected. Enquiring minds want to know. Hey - _who_ has too much time on their hands? Not me. -- Steve Gerow BN6 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Mar 25 17:26:22 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 17:26:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Message-ID: <133364.4631.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Great restoration/great video, Magnus. That engine is a beauty and of course the car is painted in the best Healey color. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Thu, 3/25/10, Magnus Karlsson wrote: From: Magnus Karlsson Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration To: "Healey Lista" Date: Thursday, March 25, 2010, 6:48 PM Hi all, For anyone that might be interested I made a slide show of a complete restoration of a MKI. You can watch it on Youtube on the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjV6mmbqY8M Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Mar 25 19:16:44 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:16:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Return to Bonneville Message-ID: <4BAC190C.3090802@earthlink.net> From the 15th issue of the Healeys Return to Bonneville newsletter: The recreated 1954 streamliner recently ran at the (salt) Lake Gairdner in Australia. Top speed per the in-car GPS was 195 mph. Unfortunately, the crankshaft broke two runs later at 189 mph. The good news - the team will be improving the lower end in anticipation of returning to Bonneville in 2011. Road Trip! Bob From 55healey at comcast.net Thu Mar 25 19:53:10 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:53:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fontana, CA Message-ID: I am trying to bid on an item in Fontana, CA that would need to be picked up and shipped to Bellevue, WA, I would be happy to pay someone for their time and expenses. It's a wind tunnel for my Middle School Design / Engineering program. About 6' long by 2' wide and 2' high. Thanks, Rob Westcott From mkgoodman at att.net Thu Mar 25 20:45:10 2010 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 23:45:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] SU FUEL PUMP REBUILDING Message-ID: <00c101cacc96$bd326e40$37974ac0$@net> I just got my SU Fuel Pump back from Dave Dubois of SU FUEL PUMP RESTORATION, and I cannot believe that what I sent him is want he sent back. I sent a filthy dirty "dead" SU AZX1300, and I got back a clean brand new looking one with written parameters on how it performed on his final 24 hour test, which includes Inlet vacuum, output pressure and output volume in pints per minute. To top it all off, he has a new solid state optical switching system that eliminates the contacts that can arc over and fail. I highly recommend that if your pump is not working that you send it to him to rebuild. He is a true gentleman and is very reasonable in what he charges. I have no financial interest. Mark Goodman 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From williamsantiks at hotmail.com Thu Mar 25 20:55:42 2010 From: williamsantiks at hotmail.com (William Berg) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 20:55:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wanted a double axle Trailer for a healey In-Reply-To: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> References: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Message-ID: Hey Gang, Does anyone have a good trailer for my 54 BN1 for sale. I live in the bay area near San Francisco, benicia in fact and am shopping around for a good solid trailer that will protect my baby when if can't drive to the Conclave 2010. yes I would rather drive it but wife and 2 young kids preclude this. i might use it as my chase vehicle -William Berg 707 332 0890 _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Mar 25 21:54:52 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 21:54:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wanted a double axle Trailer for a healey In-Reply-To: References: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net>, Message-ID: I almost bought a new duel axle enclosed trailer for about $3500 in Carson City NV but I had no place to store it. I discovered that the 4 tires would have to be replaced every 5 to 7 years even if they had not been used much. I would have to pay license fees. And then there is the fact that when we go any place the fun is driving and getting the thumbs up from people along the way. If you are going to Oregon in June, there will be many Healeys going up the coast that you can join up with. We are leaving from Tahoe via Sacramento and may go to the coast and will probably join with at least one other adventurer. Be care full of trailer you find on places like Craigs List. You never know how old they are so check the dates on the tires to get an idea if its now registered with the state. Rich Kahn _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Thu Mar 25 23:12:07 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 07:12:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> References: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Message-ID: <9F7EB0DD-5A9A-4DD6-BEA6-B9F7EEEEA71A@bornet.net> To Tom, Ron, Bob, Rick, Price and Jim. Thanks to all of you for your interest and very kind comments. I try to answer all your questions in one mail. The car was restored from the ground up with many new inner and outer body panels. The body is all aluminium. The engine has a race aluminium top, 3000 camshaft, forged pistons, roller rockers, tuftrided crank, aluminium flywheel etc, etc. The carbs are three 2" HD84s on an inlet manifold made in Holland I beleive. It4s made in order to be able to fit triple HD84s on a LHD car. I bought the manifold from AH Spares. Tubular exhaust manifold with side exit silencer. The front brakes are uprated to BJ8 spec with Girling type 16 calipers. The gearbox is fitted with straight cut gears of Sebring ratio. The overdrive is uprated to race spec. Apart from these mods I tried to build it to full concours standards. The car is seriously fast and drives wonderfully. I would estimate the power to around 190 BHP and you can feel that the car is very light thanks to the aluminium body. The slide show was made with the Apple program, Aperture. For more images of the car please visit my website: www.concourshealeys.com Thanks again to all of you, Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 25 mar 2010 kl. 23.48 skrev Magnus Karlsson: > Hi all, > > For anyone that might be interested I made a slide show of a complete > restoration of a MKI. > You can watch it on Youtube on the following link: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjV6mmbqY8M > > Magnus Karlsson > > www.concourshealeys.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Thu Mar 25 23:23:35 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 07:23:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin Healey Restoration References: <9F7EB0DD-5A9A-4DD6-BEA6-B9F7EEEEA71A@bornet.net> Message-ID: <4D20EAAF-ED87-4449-9BBB-CD8E9A5B7914@bornet.net> > To Tom, Ron, Bob, Rick, Price and Jim. > > Thanks to all of you for your interest and very kind comments. I try to answer all your questions in one mail. > > The car was restored from the ground up with many new inner and outer body panels. The body is all aluminium. > The engine has a race aluminium top, 3000 camshaft, forged pistons, roller rockers, tuftrided crank, aluminium flywheel etc, etc. > The carbs are three 2" HD84s on an inlet manifold made in Holland I beleive. It4s made in order to be able to fit triple HD84s on > a LHD car. I bought the manifold from AH Spares. Tubular exhaust manifold with side exit silencer. > The front brakes are uprated to BJ8 spec with Girling type 16 calipers. The gearbox is fitted with straight cut gears of Sebring ratio. > The overdrive is uprated to race spec. Apart from these mods I tried to build it to full concours standards. > The car is seriously fast and drives wonderfully. I would estimate the power to around 190 BHP and you can feel that the > car is very light thanks to the aluminium body. > > The slide show was made with the Apple program, Aperture. > > For more images of the car please visit my website: > www.concourshealeys.com > > Thanks again to all of you, > Magnus Karlsson > www.concourshealeys.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Mar 25 23:24:46 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 14:24:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] SU FUEL PUMP REBUILDING In-Reply-To: <00c101cacc96$bd326e40$37974ac0$@net> References: <00c101cacc96$bd326e40$37974ac0$@net> Message-ID: Mark - So you must be the fella who caused my SU pump repair job to be delayed! :) Alan On 3/26/10, Mark Goodman wrote: > I just got my SU Fuel Pump back from Dave Dubois of SU FUEL PUMP > RESTORATION, and I cannot believe that what I sent him is want he sent > back. I sent a filthy dirty "dead" SU AZX1300, and I got back a clean > brand new looking one with written parameters on how it performed on his > final 24 hour test, which includes Inlet vacuum, output pressure and output > volume in pints per minute. To top it all off, he has a new solid state > optical switching system that eliminates the contacts that can arc over and > fail. > > I highly recommend that if your pump is not working that you send it to him > to rebuild. He is a true gentleman and is very reasonable in what he > charges. I have no financial interest. > > > > Mark Goodman > > > > 66BJ8 35503 > > www.austinhealeyessence.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Mar 26 02:03:09 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 10:03:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <4D20EAAF-ED87-4449-9BBB-CD8E9A5B7914@bornet.net> References: <9F7EB0DD-5A9A-4DD6-BEA6-B9F7EEEEA71A@bornet.net> <4D20EAAF-ED87-4449-9BBB-CD8E9A5B7914@bornet.net> Message-ID: Fantastic work Magnus, both artistically and technically. Just out of interest. Do you have any idea of the total man hours it took for the restoration cheers Derek www.healeysix.net On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 7:23 AM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > > To Tom, Ron, Bob, Rick, Price and Jim. > > > > Thanks to all of you for your interest and very kind comments. I try to > answer all your questions in one mail. > > > > The car was restored from the ground up with many new inner and outer > body > panels. The body is all aluminium. > > The engine has a race aluminium top, 3000 camshaft, forged pistons, > roller > rockers, tuftrided crank, aluminium flywheel etc, etc. > > The carbs are three 2" HD84s on an inlet manifold made in Holland I > beleive. > It4s made in order to be able to fit triple HD84s on > > a LHD car. I bought the manifold from AH Spares. Tubular exhaust manifold > with side exit silencer. > > The front brakes are uprated to BJ8 spec with Girling type 16 calipers. > The > gearbox is fitted with straight cut gears of Sebring ratio. > > The overdrive is uprated to race spec. Apart from these mods I tried to > build it to full concours standards. > > The car is seriously fast and drives wonderfully. I would estimate the > power > to around 190 BHP and you can feel that the > > car is very light thanks to the aluminium body. > > > > The slide show was made with the Apple program, Aperture. > > > > For more images of the car please visit my website: > > www.concourshealeys.com > > > > Thanks again to all of you, > > Magnus Karlsson > > www.concourshealeys.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From mkgoodman at att.net Fri Mar 26 04:59:03 2010 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 07:59:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] SU FUEL PUMP REBUILDING In-Reply-To: <001f01caccd7$226304b0$67290e10$@net> References: <00c101cacc96$bd326e40$37974ac0$@net> <001f01caccd7$226304b0$67290e10$@net> Message-ID: <001901caccdb$bbd2a9d0$3377fd70$@net> SU FUEL PUMP RESTORATION 1913 South Marine Drive Bremerton, WA 98312 360-479-0462 Email: SUfuelpumps at donobi.net Website: http://www.homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 7:26 AM To: 'Mark Goodman' Subject: RE: [Healeys] SU FUEL PUMP REBUILDING Address/ Fone? Web site? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Fri Mar 26 05:33:17 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 08:33:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 suspension thoughts Message-ID: How much are the late BJ8 rear springs toed in? Were the spring mounts on the forward out rigger moved in closer to the frame or was the main frame changed? _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From mgcharlie at comcast.net Fri Mar 26 08:17:58 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 11:17:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] non healey - Volvo 1800 Message-ID: <4BACD026.6090205@comcast.net> Someone on this list makes CDs with Volvo 1800 shop and parts manuals, etc. We had communicated previously, but I'm not sure who it was. Someone else wanted to get a copy, but I told him that it wasn't my property to copy, so whoever it is please contact me off list and I'll put the two of you together. Thanks. Charlie [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From jstmorris at yahoo.com Fri Mar 26 10:03:12 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 10:03:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] non healey - Volvo 1800 In-Reply-To: <4BACD026.6090205@comcast.net> Message-ID: <415018.79767.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Charlie; You can download all those manuals from the following web site. It also has Girling, Lucas, Smiths, Laycock Overdrive, etc. items. http://www.volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en .htm or http://tinyurl.com/ycvoegp --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7 J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Fri, 3/26/10, Charlie Baldwin wrote: << Someone on this list makes CDs with Volvo 1800 shop and parts manuals, etc. We had communicated previously, but I'm not sure who it was. Someone else wanted to get a copy, but I told him that it wasn't my property to copy, so whoever it is please contact me off list and I'll put the two of you together.Thanks. Charlie >> __________________________________________________________________ Get a sneak peak at messages with a handy reading pane with All new Yahoo! Mail: http://ca.promos.yahoo.com/newmail/overview2/ From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Mar 26 10:57:59 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 17:57:59 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] oil cooler Message-ID: <000301cacd0d$df3c7270$9db55750$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Hi, I've bought an oil cooler on eBay. The hoses will need work, but there is an agricultural workshop nearby which can do the hoses and at a sensible price. What I don't have is the fitting kit which I imagine I can fabricate once I know what it looks like. Does anyone have pictures of the kit or copies of the instructions which they can send me? I gather that I'll need longer bolts for the adaptor/filter area. Does anyone know what thread, length etc I need? It's a 3000 MkII BT7. I'm going away for 2 weeks on Sunday, so I might not reply at once! Thanks, Simon. From quenty at ntelos.net Fri Mar 26 13:30:52 2010 From: quenty at ntelos.net (Quentin Schweninger) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 16:30:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] SU FUEL PUMP REBUILDING In-Reply-To: <00c101cacc96$bd326e40$37974ac0$@net> References: <00c101cacc96$bd326e40$37974ac0$@net> Message-ID: <824DB40D-85D6-456D-BB3F-05BA58BC7BCC@ntelos.net> I'm sure this outfit is way better than those Idiots at Burlen Dave Schweninger On Mar 25, 2010, at 11:45 PM, Mark Goodman wrote: I just got my SU Fuel Pump back from Dave Dubois of SU FUEL PUMP RESTORATION, and I cannot believe that what I sent him is want he sent back. I sent a filthy dirty "dead" SU AZX1300, and I got back a clean brand new looking one with written parameters on how it performed on his final 24 hour test, which includes Inlet vacuum, output pressure and output volume in pints per minute. To top it all off, he has a new solid state optical switching system that eliminates the contacts that can arc over and fail. I highly recommend that if your pump is not working that you send it to him to rebuild. He is a true gentleman and is very reasonable in what he charges. I have no financial interest. Mark Goodman 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/quenty at ntelos.net From jstmorris at yahoo.com Fri Mar 26 18:27:42 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 18:27:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Message-ID: <183246.16753.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Magnus, that is one beautiful car. And the slide show is very nicely done. Congratulations and enjoy. You are going to have some fantastic drives. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7 J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives Magnus Karlsson wrote: << Hi all, For anyone that might be interested I made a slide show of a complete restoration of a MKI. You can watch it on Youtube on the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjV6mmbqY8M Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com >> __________________________________________________________________ Get the name you've always wanted @ymail.com or @rocketmail.com! Go to http://ca.promos.yahoo.com/jacko/ From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Fri Mar 26 23:35:40 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 02:35:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars Message-ID: An Austin Healey square body sprite is going to be featured on the show "Pawn Stars"- Monday evening 10PM on the history channel. Right after "American Pickers". The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Mar 27 04:36:47 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 07:36:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Web Site Message-ID: <000001cacda1$c9138990$5b3a9cb0$@net> An additional 43 articles and/or links were uploaded to the site this morning. Taking my backlog down to 16 items which should be on in another few days. The great YouTube production made by Magnus Karlsson can be found on the Restoration section of the Important Links page. Adjust your sound appropriately. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Mar 27 05:41:13 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 05:41:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Web Site In-Reply-To: <000001cacda1$c9138990$5b3a9cb0$@net> Message-ID: <483259.60671.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks, John, for constantly adding to this great Healey resource. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 3/27/10, John Sims wrote: From: John Sims Subject: [Healeys] Web Site To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, March 27, 2010, 7:36 AM An additional 43 articles and/or links were uploaded to the site this morning. Taking my backlog down to 16 items which should be on in another few days. The great YouTube production made by Magnus Karlsson can be found on the Restoration section of the Important Links page. Adjust your sound appropriately. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 27 06:08:29 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 09:08:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars References: Message-ID: <000401cacdae$988495f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Just goes to show ya that some Pawn shops will buy just about anything for a bargain. Thats pretty mellow dramatic compared to the genuine Cobra body shell with chassis that they picked up for 30k on last weeks episode. I really need to get a life. Those characters hardly deserve a reality show. Cable TV can make anybody look like a star these days. They almost had me believing that the bald guy has some intelligence, but its all a hoax. Anybody can read a script. Ok, back to real reality, my garage. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "S and T Miller" To: Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 2:35 AM Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars > An Austin Healey square body sprite is going to be featured on the show > "Pawn > Stars"- Monday evening 10PM on the history channel. Right after "American > Pickers". > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net Sat Mar 27 06:13:23 2010 From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (sdesalvo at frontiernet.net) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 13:13:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Need a screw In-Reply-To: <1742974342.572757.1269623207710.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <286663185.588938.1269695603422.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 17:06:47 +0000 (UTC) From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net To: healey list Message-ID: <1742974342.572757.1269623207710.JavaMail.root at cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> Subject: Need a screw MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Previous-IP: 184.9.23.153 X-Originating-IP: [184.9.23.153] X-Mailer: Zimbra 6.0.5_GA_2213.UBUNTU8_64 (ZimbraWebClient - FF3.0 (Win)/6.0.5_GA_2213.UBUNTU8_64) X-Authenticated-User: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net Does anyone in Healeyland know where I can get the small screw that secures the windshield knob on a 100-4. The knob is the one that secures the windshield to the vertical windshield posts. The screws are very small. Thanks in advance, From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Mar 27 06:53:42 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 09:53:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Need a screw In-Reply-To: <286663185.588938.1269695603422.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> References: <1742974342.572757.1269623207710.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> <286663185.588938.1269695603422.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <000b01cacdb4$e9990f10$bccb2d30$@net> I would try British Car Specialists - the Nocks. http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/ Call them on the phone 206-948-8767 and explain what you want. Pacific Time. If they don't have it, I do not know who would. Their "parts bin" is unbelievably complete. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sdesalvo at frontiernet.net Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 9:13 AM To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Need a screw Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 17:06:47 +0000 (UTC) From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net To: healey list Message-ID: <1742974342.572757.1269623207710.JavaMail.root at cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiern et.net> Subject: Need a screw MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Previous-IP: 184.9.23.153 X-Originating-IP: [184.9.23.153] X-Mailer: Zimbra 6.0.5_GA_2213.UBUNTU8_64 (ZimbraWebClient - FF3.0 (Win)/6.0.5_GA_2213.UBUNTU8_64) X-Authenticated-User: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net Does anyone in Healeyland know where I can get the small screw that secures the windshield knob on a 100-4. The knob is the one that secures the windshield to the vertical windshield posts. The screws are very small. Thanks in advance, From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Mar 27 06:55:08 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 09:55:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars In-Reply-To: <000401cacdae$988495f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000401cacdae$988495f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <000c01cacdb5$1d50a700$57f1f500$@net> I got turned off when I realized that they have a local "expert" for everything that is being sold or pawned. Too good to be true? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 9:08 AM To: S and T Miller; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pawn Stars Just goes to show ya that some Pawn shops will buy just about anything for a bargain. Thats pretty mellow dramatic compared to the genuine Cobra body shell with chassis that they picked up for 30k on last weeks episode. I really need to get a life. Those characters hardly deserve a reality show. Cable TV can make anybody look like a star these days. They almost had me believing that the bald guy has some intelligence, but its all a hoax. Anybody can read a script. Ok, back to real reality, my garage. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "S and T Miller" To: Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 2:35 AM Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars > An Austin Healey square body sprite is going to be featured on the show > "Pawn > Stars"- Monday evening 10PM on the history channel. Right after "American > Pickers". > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From healeydoc at verizon.net Sat Mar 27 07:57:16 2010 From: healeydoc at verizon.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 07:57:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Need a screw In-Reply-To: <286663185.588938.1269695603422.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> References: <286663185.588938.1269695603422.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> Message-ID: Are you looking for the knob or the lock screw in the center of the knob. The knob we have available new and used. The screw was a left handed screw and has not been available for many years. The bolt is available with a lock screw but it is not a left handed screw. I think that Roger Moment had some made up several years ago but don't know if he still has some. I also have the original drawings of these parts. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialis.com On Mar 27, 2010, at 6:13 AM, sdesalvo at frontiernet.net wrote: > > > Does anyone in Healeyland know where I can get the small screw that > secures the windshield knob on a 100-4. The knob is the one that > secures the windshield to the vertical windshield posts. The screws > are very small. > Thanks in advance, > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at verizon.net From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Mar 27 08:14:16 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 08:14:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars In-Reply-To: <000c01cacdb5$1d50a700$57f1f500$@net> References: <000401cacdae$988495f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <000c01cacdb5$1d50a700$57f1f500$@net> Message-ID: <4BAE20C8.7080107@comcast.net> re: "Too good to be true?" Why? Vegas is a big city, with just about anything you can think of (legal or otherwise). They often go to the experts' places of business, inc: - archery shop - airport (NLV) - firing range/gun shop - guitar store - auto restorers (Cobra, etc.) - others I can't think of off the top of my head I think the experts show up (partially) because there may be some business in it for them. I'm sure the TV exposure doesn't hurt their businesses, either. There's people on this list who can name pretty much every part on a Healey. Other people are just as informed about their passions. I like the guy (Rick?) who seems to be able to restore anything; gas pumps, barber chairs, miniature motorcycles, you name it. A real craftsman. I'm sure some parts are at least partially scripted--and I get tired of 'Chumlee' real quick--but I like the show. I think it's legit. bs John Sims wrote: > I got turned off when I realized that they have a local "expert" for > everything that is being sold or pawned. Too good to be true? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Mar 27 08:36:59 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 08:36:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Great Historic Healey Photos Message-ID: <464855.60289.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Something for everyone here, big and little Healeys alike: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=45153476969 Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From britishcars at shaw.ca Sat Mar 27 08:46:12 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 08:46:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny....late Message-ID: <002901cacdc4$a0920a50$e1b61ef0$@ca> I took my dad to the mall the other day to buy some new shoes (he is 66). We decided to grab a bite at the food court. I noticed he was watching a teenager sitting next to him. The teenager had spiked hair in all different colours - green, red, orange, and blue. My dad kept staring at him. The teenager kept looking and would find my dad staring every time. When the teenager had had enough, he sarcastically asked: "What's the matter old man, never done anything wild in your life?" Knowing my Dad, I quickly swallowed my food so that I would not choke on his response; I knew he would have a good one! In classic style he responded without batting an eyelid .... "Got stoned once and fucked a peacock. I was just wondering if you were my son." From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sat Mar 27 08:56:15 2010 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (Mike Brouillette) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 11:56:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars Message-ID: <43010A65C5C9409C818CF6A0E95690B7@Healey> It may be staged, but it's still entertaining. So is American Picker especially when they being from Iowa just happen to come across a guy's house in Contoocook NH and decide to stop just because he had an old sign on his barn and come out with some choice early bicycle and motorcycle pieces. For those not knowing NH, Contoocook isn't exactly on the beaten path and this guy lives in the middle of nowhere. Fun show though... Mike B 59 Bt7 > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "John Sims" > Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 9:55 AM > To: "'Mark LaPierre'" ; "'S and T Miller'" > ; > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pawn Stars > >> I got turned off when I realized that they have a local "expert" for >> everything that is being sold or pawned. Too good to be true? >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre >> Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 9:08 AM >> To: S and T Miller; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pawn Stars >> >> Just goes to show ya that some Pawn shops will buy just about anything >> for a >> >> bargain. >> >> Thats pretty mellow dramatic compared to the genuine Cobra body shell >> with >> chassis that they picked up >> for 30k on last weeks episode. >> >> I really need to get a life. Those characters hardly deserve a reality >> show. Cable TV can make anybody >> look like a star these days. They almost had me believing that the >> bald >> guy has some intelligence, but its >> all a hoax. Anybody can read a script. >> >> Ok, back to real reality, my garage. >> >> Mark >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "S and T Miller" >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 2:35 AM >> Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars >> >> >>> An Austin Healey square body sprite is going to be featured on the show >>> "Pawn Stars"- Monday evening 10PM on the history channel. Right after >>> "American Pickers". From MBran89793 at aol.com Sat Mar 27 09:13:28 2010 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 12:13:28 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Need a screw Message-ID: Well you surely got me with that one, 'cause I thought you were sending a "FRIDAY FUNNIES." (Of course everyone needs one.) In a message dated 3/27/2010 9:33:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, sdesalvo at frontiernet.net writes: Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2010 17:06:47 +0000 (UTC) From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net To: healey list Message-ID: <1742974342.572757.1269623207710.JavaMail.root at cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> Subject: Need a screw MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Previous-IP: 184.9.23.153 X-Originating-IP: [184.9.23.153] X-Mailer: Zimbra 6.0.5_GA_2213.UBUNTU8_64 (ZimbraWebClient - FF3.0 (Win)/6.0.5_GA_2213.UBUNTU8_64) X-Authenticated-User: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net Does anyone in Healeyland know where I can get the small screw that secures the windshield knob on a 100-4. The knob is the one that secures the windshield to the vertical windshield posts. The screws are very small. Thanks in advance, _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Mar 27 11:03:32 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 12:03:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] TV Message-ID: Pawn starts notwithstanding Targa NewFoundland Speed channel 4pmest frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From mslechta at chartermi.net Sat Mar 27 11:46:35 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 13:46:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <76E33E80E18B485CBF6BCC2607AE0BBC@MikesLaptop> Targa Newfoundland on Speed @ 5:00 PM CST today (3/27). Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Porter To: 'healeylist' Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 1:03 PM Subject: [Healeys] TV Pawn starts notwithstanding Targa NewFoundland Speed channel 4pmest frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sat Mar 27 11:54:43 2010 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (Mike Brouillette) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 14:54:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] TV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: According to my Speed TV, Nascar truck race would still be going on and Targa Newfoundland Rally is at 6PM on the east coast... -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dave Porter" Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 2:03 PM To: "'healeylist'" Subject: [Healeys] TV > Pawn starts notwithstanding Targa NewFoundland Speed channel 4pmest > > > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > blog: http://porterbikes.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.brouillette at comcast.net From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 27 11:51:18 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 11:51:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Restoration In-Reply-To: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> References: <90E16833-D9FA-499D-910C-FF41B2F021A3@bornet.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327114728.01fb0be8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Hi Magnus, That is a great video and a wonderful restoration! It certainly inspires me to seek higher standards. My frame and chassis should be painted next week and out of the body shop. I am almost setup to clean and restore all the other bits. The engine and trans are rebuilt. So... can you slow the video down? It is way too fast! JUST KIDDING, I know where the pause button is. Again, fantastic video and restoration. Kind regards, John Spaur At 11:48 PM 3/25/2010 +0100, Magnus Karlsson wrote: >Hi all, > >For anyone that might be interested I made a slide show of a complete >restoration of a MKI. >You can watch it on Youtube on the following link: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 27 11:54:24 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 11:54:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Website sound In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100324224114.02031160@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <011801cacb49$6063e110$212ba330$@net> <6.2.3.4.2.20100324224114.02031160@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327115138.01fd3420@pop.att.yahoo.com> Hi John, I finally was able to find the information I needed in the Knowledge Base to restore my sound icon to the task bar. Now I can easily control and mute the sound. Thank you for all the effort you put into maintaining a great Healey web site! Cheers, John From tappiokie at gmail.com Sat Mar 27 13:32:11 2010 From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 16:32:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN-6 Boot/Spare Tire Cover Details Message-ID: <4BAE6B4B.3060701@gmail.com> Does anyone have a good set of pictures or specific instructions for attaching the spare tire cover to the rear bulkhead in a BN-6/7? I have the cover and rectangular metal frame I but need to know the details of connecting the two and pop-riveting the frame to the bulkhead. Thanks for any assistance. Jim From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Mar 27 14:24:23 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:24:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Need a screw In-Reply-To: <286663185.588938.1269695603422.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> References: <286663185.588938.1269695603422.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <02045313C2D242D29804E1F49CAC73A3@LIFEBOOK> > Does anyone in Healeyland know where I can get the small screw that > secures the windshield knob on a 100-4. The knob is the one that secures > the windshield to the vertical windshield posts. The screws are very > small. > Thanks in advance, The late Daryl White, a great guy and a Healey enthusiast had about 25 pairs made up complete with chrome pin and L/H thread screw and was selling them out of his boot at Tahoe in '02. I bought two pair at the time. Both pairs are in use on customers' cars. This is definetly an item the Hundred owners need. Rich Chrysler From INSIDEDIM at aol.com Sat Mar 27 14:45:57 2010 From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:45:57 EDT Subject: [Healeys] digital level and BJ7/8 Message-ID: <2a416.789ba354.38dfd695@aol.com> Benevolent Listers, again, I don't trust anything I've done with this car anymore. Now I've discovered that my windshield is 1/2" out of level from one side to the other. As some will know, I've been working on correcting the location of my convertible top mounting brackets and they're gonna have to be square to the windshield. I know there's adjustment up and down and with the rake of the windshield. Would someone with a digital level and a BJ8 or 7 please measure the angle of the windshield at the center. Also, there's a little trough on the front shroud. Where does the edge of the windshield gasket land? On the downside of the trough? Does it cover the trough? Anyone know the size of the gap between the edge of the windshield and the vent window? If I don't get this car finished and on the road soon, it's gonna be for sale real cheap! Thanks guys! Bill BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Sat Mar 27 15:16:41 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:16:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland In-Reply-To: <76E33E80E18B485CBF6BCC2607AE0BBC@MikesLaptop> References: <76E33E80E18B485CBF6BCC2607AE0BBC@MikesLaptop> Message-ID: <4BAE83C9.70008@justbrits.com> << Targa Newfoundland on Speed @ 5:00 PM CST today (3/27). >> And Mr. Salter just interviewed !!! From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Mar 27 15:19:13 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 15:19:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... Message-ID: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> I'm at my wits--what's left of them--end. I've replaced at least a half-dozen exhaust flange gaskets in the last couple years (the ones that go between the exhaust manifold and downpipes). I've flat-filed the downpipes flanges, and the manifold flanges are smooth and flat. I've used the 'std' brass nuts and regular 5/16" with split washers and anti-seize--which seem to work the best--but I keep blowing out the gaskets. I've been religious about keeping the nuts torqued up. The contemporary gaskets seem to be an unknown fibrous material sandwiched between two thin, perforated pieces of a thin, metal-like material--have also tried the ones made of copper donated by a generous Lister--but no matter what I do the gaskets blow out. The filler material--whatever it is--seems to turn to a white powder which, of course, is not a good sealer. The latest replacements I got from Moss--the metal is kinda yellowish--look like they might be of a different construction/composition, but I'm leery at this point. I even tried to get a custom copper gasket shop to make a set for me, but they flaked out. Anyone have a source for gaskets that don't decompose and blow out? Man, I'd give anything for a NOS set of asbestos-filled gaskets, OSHA be damned. Or, will any of the goops work at the high temperatures? TIA Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From 2x2doc at gmail.com Sat Mar 27 15:23:36 2010 From: 2x2doc at gmail.com (2x2doc at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:23:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release Message-ID: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> I'm redoing the brakes on my 1959 BT7. I've replaced the brake lines and added a Powertune brake booster. I bled the brakes using an Ezeebleed system. The problem is that the booster won't release once I've applied the brakes (it eventually releases but can take a couple of minutes) I've mounted the booster just like the instructions say. The brakes work fine if I disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the manifold). I've bled the brakes numerous times and it always hangs up. Anyone have any ideas? Pat Williams From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 27 15:58:50 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 15:58:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland In-Reply-To: <76E33E80E18B485CBF6BCC2607AE0BBC@MikesLaptop> References: <76E33E80E18B485CBF6BCC2607AE0BBC@MikesLaptop> Message-ID: <241264.66122.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks for the notice. While interesting to watch, not much of Mike Salter or the Healey. Better luck next year. Cheers, Carlos ________________________________ From: Mike Slechta To: Dave Porter ; healeylist Sent: Sat, March 27, 2010 1:46:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland Targa Newfoundland on Speed @ 5:00 PM CST today (3/27). Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Porter To: 'healeylist' Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 1:03 PM Subject: [Healeys] TV Pawn starts notwithstanding Targa NewFoundland Speed channel 4pmest frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ From mslechta at chartermi.net Sat Mar 27 16:07:28 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 18:07:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland In-Reply-To: <241264.66122.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <76E33E80E18B485CBF6BCC2607AE0BBC@MikesLaptop> <241264.66122.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Didn't know there was a Healey entered. Targa Newfoundland does not get the coverage is should in "Good Ole US of A". Guess too many people like the left turns. Cheers - Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Carlos Cruz To: Mike Slechta ; Dave Porter ; healeylist Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 5:58 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland Thanks for the notice. While interesting to watch, not much of Mike Salter or the Healey. Better luck next year. Cheers, Carlos ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From: Mike Slechta To: Dave Porter ; healeylist Sent: Sat, March 27, 2010 1:46:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland Targa Newfoundland on Speed @ 5:00 PM CST today (3/27). Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Porter To: 'healeylist' Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 1:03 PM Subject: [Healeys] TV Pawn starts notwithstanding Targa NewFoundland Speed channel 4pmest frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStu ff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ From mark at bradakis.com Sat Mar 27 16:11:27 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 17:11:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BAE909F.5090400@bradakis.com> Is your exhaust system too tightly attached to the frame? That would cause undue stress on the manifold joint. mjb. From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 27 16:48:19 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 07:48:19 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release In-Reply-To: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> References: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> Message-ID: Pat - Take a very soft mallot and GENTLY tap the vacuum can (you don't want to dent it) on the flat surface on the front or back, but not on the curved side. If the booster releases, you should send it back to Powerbrake and tell them the foam seal under the leather seal is too big. Very common error in the rebuild kits out there, I usually cut the foam in half before I install it under the leather seal. You can do this yourself, it's not a difficult job, but then your warranty will be invalidated... Alan On 3/28/10, 2x2doc at gmail.com <2x2doc at gmail.com> wrote: > I'm redoing the brakes on my 1959 BT7. I've replaced the brake lines and > added a Powertune brake booster. I bled the brakes using an Ezeebleed > system. The problem is that the booster won't release once I've applied the > brakes (it eventually releases but can take a couple of minutes) I've > mounted the booster just like the instructions say. The brakes work fine if > I disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the manifold). I've bled the brakes > numerous times and it always hangs up. Anyone have any ideas? > Pat Williams > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 27 16:49:14 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 07:49:14 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release In-Reply-To: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> References: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> Message-ID: Oh wait - are you using an aftermarket unit, or the original Girling unit but rebuilt? On 3/28/10, 2x2doc at gmail.com <2x2doc at gmail.com> wrote: > I'm redoing the brakes on my 1959 BT7. I've replaced the brake lines and > added a Powertune brake booster. I bled the brakes using an Ezeebleed > system. The problem is that the booster won't release once I've applied the > brakes (it eventually releases but can take a couple of minutes) I've > mounted the booster just like the instructions say. The brakes work fine if > I disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the manifold). I've bled the brakes > numerous times and it always hangs up. Anyone have any ideas? > Pat Williams > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Mar 27 17:29:59 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 18:29:59 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland In-Reply-To: References: <76E33E80E18B485CBF6BCC2607AE0BBC@MikesLaptop> <241264.66122.qm@web50004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <687FCE840FB74C64ADEEA02EB02DCBD8@oscar> The past few years were quite good, IMO. Not so this year. Very disappointing. Too bad about Mike too.. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _____ From: Mike Slechta [mailto:mslechta at chartermi.net] Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 5:07 PM To: Carlos Cruz; Dave Porter; healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland Didn't know there was a Healey entered. Targa Newfoundland does not get the coverage is should in "Good Ole US of A". Guess too many people like the left turns. Cheers - Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Carlos Cruz To: Mike Slechta ; Dave Porter ; healeylist Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 5:58 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland Thanks for the notice. While interesting to watch, not much of Mike Salter or the Healey. Better luck next year. Cheers, Carlos _____ From: Mike Slechta To: Dave Porter ; healeylist Sent: Sat, March 27, 2010 1:46:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundeland Targa Newfoundland on Speed @ 5:00 PM CST today (3/27). Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Porter To: 'healeylist' Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 1:03 PM Subject: [Healeys] TV Pawn starts notwithstanding Targa NewFoundland Speed channel 4pmest frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sat Mar 27 18:30:54 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 01:30:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?pawn_stars?= Message-ID: <20100328013054.16192.qmail@server278.com> a while back i received a call from my agent(yes, even extras have to have an agent)and she wanted to know if i wanted to audition for some part on pawn starts, so it must have some kind of scripting involved. hjim From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Sat Mar 27 18:52:47 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 01:52:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release In-Reply-To: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> References: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> Message-ID: Get rid of the booster. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:23:36 +0000 > From: 2x2doc at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release > > I'm redoing the brakes on my 1959 BT7. I've replaced the brake lines and > added a Powertune brake booster. I bled the brakes using an Ezeebleed > system. The problem is that the booster won't release once I've applied the > brakes (it eventually releases but can take a couple of minutes) I've > mounted the booster just like the instructions say. The brakes work fine if > I disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the manifold). I've bled the brakes > numerous times and it always hangs up. Anyone have any ideas? > Pat Williams > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Sat Mar 27 18:59:57 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 01:59:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> Message-ID: It's very common in V-8 engines with headers to have gasket problems at the header flange that mates to the head. We use hi-temp silicone on both sides of the healer flange gasket. Check it frequently after installation and keep tightening up the bolts. After awhile it seems to settle in and they don't leak. If you do not follow this routine, the header gaskets WILL start to leak (in my experience). I hope this info may be of some help with your problem. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 15:19:13 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... > > I'm at my wits--what's left of them--end. I've replaced at least a > half-dozen exhaust flange gaskets in the last couple years (the ones > that go between the exhaust manifold and downpipes). I've flat-filed > the downpipes flanges, and the manifold flanges are smooth and flat. > I've used the 'std' brass nuts and regular 5/16" with split washers and > anti-seize--which seem to work the best--but I keep blowing out the > gaskets. I've been religious about keeping the nuts torqued up. > > The contemporary gaskets seem to be an unknown fibrous material > sandwiched between two thin, perforated pieces of a thin, metal-like > material--have also tried the ones made of copper donated by a generous > Lister--but no matter what I do the gaskets blow out. The filler > material--whatever it is--seems to turn to a white powder which, of > course, is not a good sealer. The latest replacements I got from > Moss--the metal is kinda yellowish--look like they might be of a > different construction/composition, but I'm leery at this point. I even > tried to get a custom copper gasket shop to make a set for me, but they > flaked out. > > Anyone have a source for gaskets that don't decompose and blow out? > Man, I'd give anything for a NOS set of asbestos-filled gaskets, OSHA > be damned. > > Or, will any of the goops work at the high temperatures? > > TIA > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Mar 27 19:24:33 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 19:24:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <4BAE909F.5090400@bradakis.com> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> <4BAE909F.5090400@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4BAEBDE1.8050208@comcast.net> Just hung stock Healey style. I would think the flex unions would handle the stress--maybe not. Thanks for the tip. bs Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Is your exhaust system too tightly attached to the frame? That would > cause > undue stress on the manifold joint. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 27 20:08:04 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:08:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube Replacement Material Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327200037.01fa40f8@pop.att.yahoo.com> I checked the archives but was not able to answer my question. Mine is cracked a the bottom of the adjustable slot and I was wondering if the stator tube material a standard diameter and wall thickness that can be found at a steel supplier? Thank you in advance. John Spaur From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Mar 27 20:15:08 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:15:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> Thanks, Richard. Do you run a bead of the silicone sealant around the gasket, or smear a film on the entire surface? I got some Permatex Copper Hi-Temp RTV--will that work? Bob richard mayor wrote: > It's very common in V-8 engines with headers to have gasket problems > at the header flange that mates to the head. We use hi-temp silicone > on both sides of the healer flange gasket. Check it frequently after > installation and keep tightening up the bolts. After awhile it seems > to settle in and they don't leak. If you do not follow this routine, > the header gaskets WILL start to leak (in my experience). > I hope this info may be of some help with your problem. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From gstigen at msn.com Sat Mar 27 21:16:12 2010 From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 21:16:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net>, , <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> Message-ID: While working at turbo shop, sometimes very lean fuel mixture can cause flanges to expand,warp, etc. gaskets would blow or burn out quite often.I know Healey's aren't normally prone to that issue.Also on most competition apps, we use self-locking stainless nuts. Brass nuts are nice,OEM, but are prone to stripping, especially if reused. cheers Geno > Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:15:08 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: mayorrichard at hotmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... > > Thanks, Richard. > > Do you run a bead of the silicone sealant around the gasket, or smear a > film on the entire surface? > > I got some Permatex Copper Hi-Temp RTV--will that work? > > > Bob > > > > richard mayor wrote: > > It's very common in V-8 engines with headers to have gasket problems > > at the header flange that mates to the head. We use hi-temp silicone > > on both sides of the healer flange gasket. Check it frequently after > > installation and keep tightening up the bolts. After awhile it seems > > to settle in and they don't leak. If you do not follow this routine, > > the header gaskets WILL start to leak (in my experience). > > I hope this info may be of some help with your problem. > > > > Richard Mayor > > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > > Portland, Oregon > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ From gstigen at msn.com Sat Mar 27 21:20:04 2010 From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 21:20:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release In-Reply-To: References: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com>, Message-ID: Unhook vacuum line, that way you know check-valve isn't problem. If they still lock up, booster or leather inside is hanging up. Geno > From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com > To: 2x2doc at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 01:52:47 +0000 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release > > Get rid of the booster. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > > > Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:23:36 +0000 > > From: 2x2doc at gmail.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release > > > > I'm redoing the brakes on my 1959 BT7. I've replaced the brake lines and > > added a Powertune brake booster. I bled the brakes using an Ezeebleed > > system. The problem is that the booster won't release once I've applied the > > brakes (it eventually releases but can take a couple of minutes) I've > > mounted the booster just like the instructions say. The brakes work fine if > > I disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the manifold). I've bled the brakes > > numerous times and it always hangs up. Anyone have any ideas? > > Pat Williams > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Mar 27 21:54:54 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 12:54:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - I don't think the nuts are supposed to be torqued all that tight, no more than 30 ft-lbs. Really just enough to compress lightly and get a good seal. Could this be your problem? Alan On 3/28/10, Bob Spidell wrote: > I'm at my wits--what's left of them--end. I've replaced at least a > half-dozen exhaust flange gaskets in the last couple years (the ones > that go between the exhaust manifold and downpipes). I've flat-filed > the downpipes flanges, and the manifold flanges are smooth and flat. > I've used the 'std' brass nuts and regular 5/16" with split washers and > anti-seize--which seem to work the best--but I keep blowing out the > gaskets. I've been religious about keeping the nuts torqued up. > > The contemporary gaskets seem to be an unknown fibrous material > sandwiched between two thin, perforated pieces of a thin, metal-like > material--have also tried the ones made of copper donated by a generous > Lister--but no matter what I do the gaskets blow out. The filler > material--whatever it is--seems to turn to a white powder which, of > course, is not a good sealer. The latest replacements I got from > Moss--the metal is kinda yellowish--look like they might be of a > different construction/composition, but I'm leery at this point. I even > tried to get a custom copper gasket shop to make a set for me, but they > flaked out. > > Anyone have a source for gaskets that don't decompose and blow out? > Man, I'd give anything for a NOS set of asbestos-filled gaskets, OSHA > be damned. > > Or, will any of the goops work at the high temperatures? > > TIA > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Mar 27 22:14:13 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:14:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BAEE5A5.9060402@comcast.net> Good thought, Alan. I haven't torqued them too hard--afraid of stripping the studs. Good idea to use a torque wrench--hadn't thought of that. bs Alan Seigrist wrote: > Bob - > > I don't think the nuts are supposed to be torqued all that tight, no > more than 30 ft-lbs. Really just enough to compress lightly and get a > good seal. Could this be your problem? > > Alan > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From britishcars at shaw.ca Sat Mar 27 23:28:34 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 23:28:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help Message-ID: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> I have a short in my Brake light circuit..not sure where exactly where in the circuit. Suggestions? BTW, where is the brake light switch located in a late model BJ8? Paul From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Sun Mar 28 00:23:52 2010 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 17:23:52 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] HEALEYS at AUSTRALIAN G.P. Message-ID: <4BAF0408.8080302@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Healeys were used to take drivers around on the parade lap prior to the start. Looked good From charlieoc at comcast.net Sun Mar 28 00:28:04 2010 From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 03:28:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Book/Magazine Collection For Sale - Craig's List Message-ID: <004c01cace48$34ea2dd0$9ebe8970$@net> http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/bks/1648907928.html dated 3-17-10 in Tampa Bay Charlie From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Mar 28 03:45:29 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 06:45:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube Replacement Material In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327200037.01fa40f8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327200037.01fa40f8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BAF3349.6040604@earthlink.net> 3/8" OD, 0.035" wall - McMaster Carr (http://www.mscdirect.com) I used the 304SS welded tubing for mine, PN 01412311. There's seamless or other materials (1010, 4130, etc). Remember to round the bottom of the slot to remove the stress riser caused by the slotting saw. john spaur wrote: > I checked the archives but was not able to answer my question. > > Mine is cracked a the bottom of the adjustable slot and I was wondering > if the stator tube material a standard diameter and wall thickness that > can be found at a steel supplier? > > Thank you in advance. > John Spaur > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Mar 28 03:56:30 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 06:56:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help In-Reply-To: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> Message-ID: <4BAF35DE.4010902@earthlink.net> Paul, I believe that it's in the same location for all six cylinders. Below the generator, attached to the brace that goes between the right side shock tower and the footwell/firewall. Bob > BTW, where is the brake light switch located in a late model BJ8? > > > > Paul From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 28 04:30:21 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 07:30:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> <4BAE909F.5090400@bradakis.com> <4BAEBDE1.8050208@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002001cace6a$0d8314b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Bob, without a nice cushy car lift how do you get to that area to test for leaks with the car running. I am experiencing some leaks from my all new exhaust system but am at a loss as to how to get to some of these areas to test for leaks without burning the hell out of my self. Midas is starting to look pretty good to me. Seems to me that since they specialize in this area why not let them do the job and use their warranty service when the gaskets fail again. They have always stood behind their service on my other cars and they have the necessary products to rectify most car problems. Why waste your time any more on this area since you've done it several times over already? Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "Mark J Bradakis" Cc: Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 10:24 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... > Just hung stock Healey style. > > I would think the flex unions would handle the stress--maybe not. > > Thanks for the tip. > > bs > > > Mark J Bradakis wrote: >> Is your exhaust system too tightly attached to the frame? That would >> cause >> undue stress on the manifold joint. >> >> mjb. >> _______________________________________________ > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 28 04:54:19 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 19:54:19 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help In-Reply-To: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> Message-ID: Paul - What are the sypmtoms? Not light at all prubably the flasher relay or 5-way connector on harness. If braker light only on hard pedal then bad brake light switch, located on lower right front wheel well ... On 3/28/10, PG wrote: > I have a short in my Brake light circuit..not sure where exactly where in > the circuit. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > BTW, where is the brake light switch located in a late model BJ8? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From 2x2doc at gmail.com Sun Mar 28 04:56:39 2010 From: 2x2doc at gmail.com (patrick williams) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 06:56:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release In-Reply-To: References: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> Message-ID: <1985923d1003280456o3bbafe78t3a28cdace3d8e9d8@mail.gmail.com> My booster is brand new. The brand is Powertune which looks just like the Lockheed unit. Lots of suppliers carry it now. If it's junk are there alternatives? I saw on a Lotus list that someone ordered a Lockheed and got a Powertune (Lockheed doesn't produce boosters anymore?). On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 6:49 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Oh wait - are you using an aftermarket unit, or the original Girling > unit but rebuilt? > > > > On 3/28/10, 2x2doc at gmail.com <2x2doc at gmail.com> wrote: > > I'm redoing the brakes on my 1959 BT7. I've replaced the brake lines and > > added a Powertune brake booster. I bled the brakes using an Ezeebleed > > system. The problem is that the booster won't release once I've applied > the > > brakes (it eventually releases but can take a couple of minutes) I've > > mounted the booster just like the instructions say. The brakes work fine > if > > I disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the manifold). I've bled the > brakes > > numerous times and it always hangs up. Anyone have any ideas? > > Pat Williams > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 From drmasucci at comcast.net Sun Mar 28 05:54:26 2010 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:54:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release References: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> Message-ID: <07ABAE3A7CAF4F8BBDE4768904556519@lab092908> Pat, Where did you buy your Powertune booster? I had the same issue with mine last year when I installed it. I have searched the web and found other instances of this issue. I determined the problem to be an internal flat 0-ring that drives the air valve that is either incorrectly sized, or possible of the wrong material. As a temporary fix I "machined" it down on my lathe using emory paper. The problem is greatly reduced, but there's a hint of it still. I am just now getting back to resolving this problem. I was looking to to contact Powertune. I was also talking with a guy (Leighton) at British Parts NW. He sells these and says that he's never heard of this problem. My mistake was buying it on Ebay. I saved a couple of bucks up front, but am now paying for it. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: <2x2doc at gmail.com> To: Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 6:23 PM Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release > I'm redoing the brakes on my 1959 BT7. I've replaced the brake lines and > added a Powertune brake booster. I bled the brakes using an Ezeebleed > system. The problem is that the booster won't release once I've applied > the > brakes (it eventually releases but can take a couple of minutes) I've > mounted the booster just like the instructions say. The brakes work fine > if > I disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the manifold). I've bled the brakes > numerous times and it always hangs up. Anyone have any ideas? > Pat Williams > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drmasucci at comcast.net From tomleavy at comcast.net Sun Mar 28 06:16:15 2010 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 13:16:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube Replacement Material In-Reply-To: <135234062.10307341269782144758.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1406308821.10307531269782175157.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> John- Contact Bill Bolton. He may still have them available. Regards, Tom From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Mar 28 06:37:14 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 15:37:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BAF5B8A.4050206@chello.nl> Bob, Have both flanges machined absolutely flat.(this can hardly be done with a file, sorry) and make up a red copper gasket yourself from a plate of 1,5mm thick and aneal it. Try using either stainles steel nuts and washers or the copper coated special exhaust nuts with the split on to. Use some special exhaust sealer (e.g. Holts) sparingly on the flanges if you must but better not to use it. Kees Oudesluijs Bob Spidell schreef: > I'm at my wits--what's left of them--end. I've replaced at least a > half-dozen exhaust flange gaskets in the last couple years (the ones > that go between the exhaust manifold and downpipes). I've flat-filed > the downpipes flanges, and the manifold flanges are smooth and flat. > I've used the 'std' brass nuts and regular 5/16" with split washers > and anti-seize--which seem to work the best--but I keep blowing out > the gaskets. I've been religious about keeping the nuts torqued up. > > The contemporary gaskets seem to be an unknown fibrous material > sandwiched between two thin, perforated pieces of a thin, metal-like > material--have also tried the ones made of copper donated by a > generous Lister--but no matter what I do the gaskets blow out. The > filler material--whatever it is--seems to turn to a white powder > which, of course, is not a good sealer. The latest replacements I got > from Moss--the metal is kinda yellowish--look like they might be of a > different construction/composition, but I'm leery at this point. I > even tried to get a custom copper gasket shop to make a set for me, > but they flaked out. > > Anyone have a source for gaskets that don't decompose and blow out? > Man, I'd give anything for a NOS set of asbestos-filled gaskets, OSHA > be damned. > > Or, will any of the goops work at the high temperatures? > > TIA > Bob > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.791 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2770 - datum van uitgifte: 03/25/10 22:50:00 From edic at tampabay.rr.com Sun Mar 28 06:58:25 2010 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 09:58:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> Message-ID: <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Paul, My brake light switch went out and I decided to replace it with a mechanical switch. I especially like the feature that I can adjust the brake lights to come on with the slightest pressure of drepressing the brake pedal. I think the sooner the brake lights come on the sooner the tailgater can start stopping. The switch was fairly easy to install except for working in the foot well and I had to make a small bracket to hold the switch. Drilling a couple of holes in the foot well was cumbersome, at least for me, and the retro took some time, but I am happy with the results. I got the idea for the mechanical switch from Lin Rose's wonderful Healey restoration site, "THE BLOODY BEAST" AH 3000 MK I, listed under Brakes. The picture of the instillation sealed the deal for me as I am visual and I thought this is something I can do. He also had a picture of the switch and the company to call to order it. I called Watson's StreetWorks and they were a pleasure to deal with. The switch was $22 plus shipping and came within a few days. http://web.mac.com/linwoodrose/My_AH_3000_BT7_/Home.html My original brake switch is located just beneath the rear horn and I did not remove it, just added wires to go to the new switch. This was my experience FWIW. Mel Brunet 67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "PG" To: Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:28 AM Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help >I have a short in my Brake light circuit..not sure where exactly where in > the circuit. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > BTW, where is the brake light switch located in a late model BJ8? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edic at tampabay.rr.com From charlieoc at comcast.net Sun Mar 28 07:24:48 2010 From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 10:24:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Free Gas Tank Message-ID: <008d01cace82$6c9e6270$45db2750$@net> I've replaced the gas tank on my BT7. If anyone would like the original one, let me know and I'll send it to you if you pay the shipping. It had been patched long before I acquired the car, but it doesn't leak. Charlie Havana, Florida From ampole at hotmail.com Sun Mar 28 07:25:04 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 14:25:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help In-Reply-To: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> Message-ID: Paul What do you mean by a short, are you aware that the switch is a pressure switch, its the round switch that screws into the 3 way brake union that is situated on the inner right front wing, next to the smiths fan motor. There may be air in the system or a faulty switch, doubt if you have a short if its flashing on and off. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ Got a cool Hotmail story? Tell us now http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Mar 28 07:29:12 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 07:29:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help In-Reply-To: <4BAF35DE.4010902@earthlink.net> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <4BAF35DE.4010902@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4BAF67B8.6060302@comcast.net> On cars with servos--at least on my BJ8--the union and switch are mounted on the inside of the front right wheel well, behind the rear horn. bs Bob Haskell wrote: > Paul, > > I believe that it's in the same location for all six cylinders. Below > the generator, attached to the brace that goes between the right side > shock tower and the footwell/firewall. > > Bob > >> BTW, where is the brake light switch located in a late model BJ8? >> >> >> >> Paul > _______________________________________________ > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Mar 28 07:33:11 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 10:33:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help In-Reply-To: <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <004601cace83$987c96e0$c975c4a0$@net> You can also see my installation of a mechanical switch that I purchased from Watson's on the Technical page, My Modifications section of my site. At the same time that I installed the mechanical switch, I installed a third brake light and converted the reflectors to brake lights. These work with the mechanical switch and the original pressure switch works the original brake lights so I effectively have two brake light systems and hopefully if one fails, the other will not. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of edic Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 9:58 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help Paul, My brake light switch went out and I decided to replace it with a mechanical switch. I especially like the feature that I can adjust the brake lights to come on with the slightest pressure of drepressing the brake pedal. I think the sooner the brake lights come on the sooner the tailgater can start stopping. The switch was fairly easy to install except for working in the foot well and I had to make a small bracket to hold the switch. Drilling a couple of holes in the foot well was cumbersome, at least for me, and the retro took some time, but I am happy with the results. I got the idea for the mechanical switch from Lin Rose's wonderful Healey restoration site, "THE BLOODY BEAST" AH 3000 MK I, listed under Brakes. The picture of the instillation sealed the deal for me as I am visual and I thought this is something I can do. He also had a picture of the switch and the company to call to order it. I called Watson's StreetWorks and they were a pleasure to deal with. The switch was $22 plus shipping and came within a few days. http://web.mac.com/linwoodrose/My_AH_3000_BT7_/Home.html My original brake switch is located just beneath the rear horn and I did not remove it, just added wires to go to the new switch. This was my experience FWIW. From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Mar 28 07:33:21 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 07:33:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help In-Reply-To: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> Message-ID: <4BAF68B1.1000706@comcast.net> I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me, but I suspect if you had a short to ground you'd have fried part of your harness (or are you blowing fuses?). You probably have a bad ground connection somewhere. I believe the rear of the harness has a common ground--I know, that's redundant--that's screwed into the chassis somewhere in the boot. I'd start there. bs PG wrote: > I have a short in my Brake light circuit..not sure where exactly where in > the circuit. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > BTW, where is the brake light switch located in a late model BJ8? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Mar 28 07:41:06 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 10:41:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Short....need help In-Reply-To: <4BAF67B8.6060302@comcast.net> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <4BAF35DE.4010902@earthlink.net> <4BAF67B8.6060302@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BAF6A82.1090105@earthlink.net> Bob, Thanks for the correction. Bob Bob Spidell wrote: > On cars with servos--at least on my BJ8--the union and switch are > mounted on the inside of the front right wheel well, behind the rear horn. > > bs > > > Bob Haskell wrote: >> Paul, >> >> I believe that it's in the same location for all six cylinders. Below >> the generator, attached to the brace that goes between the right side >> shock tower and the footwell/firewall. >> >> Bob >> >>> BTW, where is the brake light switch located in a late model BJ8? >>> >>> >>> >>> Paul >> _______________________________________________ From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Mar 28 07:44:54 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 07:44:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <002001cace6a$0d8314b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> <4BAE909F.5090400@bradakis.com> <4BAEBDE1.8050208@comcast.net> <002001cace6a$0d8314b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4BAF6B66.9040100@comcast.net> Mark, I know I have a leak when the exhaust starts popping going downhill with my foot off the throttle; i.e. engine braking. I have the car up on jackstands for its annual going-over prior to a long road trip. I've cobbled together an exhaust system from an Ansa system and some generic glasspacks (I call it "Frankenmuffler"). It's a bit loud but works fine except for the gaskets, which were a problem even before I modified my system. I have the whole system out and one of the gaskets was completely blown--black soot where insulation should have been. Have you had Midas replace your system from the manifold back, inc. the gaskets? I've looked all over the net and that type gasket--1.75" ID with three bolt holes--isn't available from anybody. I'm not sure Midas would have any either--it's probably a specialty part. At any rate, I had an exhaust replaced by a shop--not a Midas--and was not entirely satisfied with the results and, as a rule I do all my own work. I think the tips I'm getting on this list may help me solve the problem. Bob Mark LaPierre wrote: > Bob, without a nice cushy car lift how do you get to that area to > test for leaks with the car running. > I am experiencing some leaks from my all new exhaust system but am at > a loss as to how to > get to some of these areas to test for leaks without burning the hell > out of my self. Midas is starting > to look pretty good to me. > > Seems to me that since they specialize in this area why not let them > do the job and use their warranty service when the gaskets fail > again. They have always stood behind > their service on my other cars and they have the necessary products to > rectify most car problems. > Why waste your time any more on this area since you've done it several > times over already? > > Mark ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Mar 28 07:54:47 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 10:54:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Old Ashtray Message-ID: <20100328.075524.20190.87355@mailpop10.dca.untd.com> I have an old ashtray, which is a Kelly Springfield miniature tire mounted on an ashtray. The glass was split down the middle and repaired, but the tire is excellent. To the first person for postage. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Love Spell Click here to light up your life with a love spell! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=grDIOwUtxn693oZraX499AAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARwAAAAA= From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sun Mar 28 08:05:51 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:05:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... Message-ID: An easy way to check it without the car running is use a halloween fog machine and pump the fog back through the tail pipe. Then use a flashlight and watch for fog exiting at on the joints. Very easy to do. Fun also. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 07:30:21 -0400 From: "Mark LaPierre" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... To: Message-ID: <002001cace6a$0d8314b0$4001a8c0 at markl946cfrd7q> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response Bob, without a nice cushy car lift how do you get to that area to test for leaks with the car running. I am experiencing some leaks from my all new exhaust system but am at a loss as to how to get to some of these areas to test for leaks without burning the hell out of my self. Midas is starting to look pretty good to me. Seems to me that since they specialize in this area why not let them do the job and use their warranty service when the gaskets fail again. They have always stood behind their service on my other cars and they have the necessary products to rectify most car problems. Why waste your time any more on this area since you've done it several times over already? _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From 55healey at comcast.net Sun Mar 28 08:57:40 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 08:57:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> Hi Mel, Did the exact thing about 5 years ago, used to have to stomp the brakes to turn on the lights even with a new pressure switch. I have it set to turn them on when I just touch the pedal. A bright 3rd LED light that is attached to the trunk with magnets completes the package. I bought the lED strip from Watson's as well and machined a bracket to fit the curve of the trunk. It pops off and slips in the trunk for shows. This light has saved my butt (and the Healy's tail) many times. Rob On Mar 28, 2010, at 6:58 AM, edic wrote: > Paul, > > > > My brake light switch went out and I decided to replace it with a > mechanical switch. I especially like the feature that I can adjust > the brake lights to come on with the slightest pressure of > drepressing the brake pedal. I think the sooner the brake lights > come on the sooner the tailgater can start stopping. The switch was > fairly easy to install except for working in the foot well and I had > to make a small bracket to hold the switch. Drilling a couple of > holes in the foot well was cumbersome, at least for me, and the > retro took some time, but I am happy with the results. > > I got the idea for the mechanical switch from Lin Rose's wonderful > Healey restoration site, "THE BLOODY BEAST" AH 3000 MK I, listed > under Brakes. The picture of the instillation sealed the deal for > me as I am visual and I thought this is something I can do. He also > had a picture of the switch and the company to call to order it. I > called Watson's StreetWorks and they were a pleasure to deal with. > The switch was $22 plus shipping and came within a few days. > > http://web.mac.com/linwoodrose/My_AH_3000_BT7_/Home.html > > My original brake switch is located just beneath the rear horn and I > did not remove it, just added wires to go to the new switch. > > This was my experience FWIW. > > Mel Brunet > > 67 BJ8 From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Sun Mar 28 10:57:54 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 17:57:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> , <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, Run a 1/8th inch bead around the gasket hole - both sides. Install but not too tight.You don't want to squish all of the RTV out of the joint. Wait 24 hours and then tighten the nuts up snugly. After driving the car, snug up the nuts again. After driving a few more times, check the nuts again. Maybe even one more time. This should solve your problem. Hi-temp RTV is exactly the stuff to use. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:15:08 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: mayorrichard at hotmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... > > Thanks, Richard. > > Do you run a bead of the silicone sealant around the gasket, or smear a > film on the entire surface? > > I got some Permatex Copper Hi-Temp RTV--will that work? > > > Bob > > > > richard mayor wrote: > > It's very common in V-8 engines with headers to have gasket problems > > at the header flange that mates to the head. We use hi-temp silicone > > on both sides of the healer flange gasket. Check it frequently after > > installation and keep tightening up the bolts. After awhile it seems > > to settle in and they don't leak. If you do not follow this routine, > > the header gaskets WILL start to leak (in my experience). > > I hope this info may be of some help with your problem. > > > > Richard Mayor > > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > > Portland, Oregon > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/ From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 28 14:12:20 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:12:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals In-Reply-To: References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> , <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000301cacebb$5a8089e0$0f819da0$@net> Folks, We are having trouble determining the cause of some turn signal issues on a friend's 1960 BN7. The car is near the end of a frame up restoration so all components are new or rebuilt. Background: 1. The flasher unit has been determined to be defective so we have bypassed it by disconnecting the wire s and connecting the wire for the "B" terminal to the wire for the "L" terminal. 2. The turn signal relay has been replaced with a new electronic unit which was bench tested with 12 volts and determined to be functional. 3. All wiring, except the wires that connect inside the turn signal switch at the steering wheel have been checked several times for correct installation and connections. 4. The turn signal switch was rebuilt by someone we understand to be an expert. However, moving the turn signal switch to the right turns on the left front and rear turn signal lights, and turning switch to the left results in no lights tuning on. 5. The horn button works. 6. The brake lights work 7. The parking lights work front and back. 8. Rear reflectors have been converted to brake/signal lights. When going through the test outlined in the Workshop Manual under Section N.14, the following results occur. 1. 12 volts are present at terminal 1of the turn signal relay 2. Linking terminal 1 to terminal 2 turns on the left front turn signal light. 3. Linking terminal 1 to terminal 6 turns on the right front turn signal light 4. Linking terminal 1 to terminal 3 causes both taillights to illuminate under the flasher filament. 5. Linking terminal 1 to terminal 7 causes both taillights to illuminate under the flasher filament. We are completely confused as to why all rear turn signal/brake lights come on at the same time We do suspect that the wires in the turn signal switch are part of the problem as at least two wires are connected to the wrong terminals. We wonder if a broken or grounded out wire inside the stator tube could cause all rear lights to come on at the same time during the testing of the relay Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide. Ron From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Sun Mar 28 14:40:37 2010 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 07:40:37 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release In-Reply-To: <1985923d1003280456o3bbafe78t3a28cdace3d8e9d8@mail.gmail.com> References: <000e0cd631342c5e810482cfbb75@google.com> <1985923d1003280456o3bbafe78t3a28cdace3d8e9d8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000601cacebf$4e081b70$ea185250$@net.au> I had this problem with a PBR VH40 unit fitted to my car. Turned out to be a split in a rubber boomerang shaped joiner on an external pipe joining both sides of the diaphragm (typical new rubber !) which caused a vacuum leak. I don't know what your unit is like but sounds like the same problem. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak of some sort. Do you hear a air-releasing sound when you depress the pedal. If not, that is the problem John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of patrick williams Sent: Sunday, 28 March 2010 9:57 PM To: Alan Seigrist; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release My booster is brand new. The brand is Powertune which looks just like the Lockheed unit. Lots of suppliers carry it now. If it's junk are there alternatives? I saw on a Lotus list that someone ordered a Lockheed and got a Powertune (Lockheed doesn't produce boosters anymore?). On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 6:49 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Oh wait - are you using an aftermarket unit, or the original Girling > unit but rebuilt? > > > > On 3/28/10, 2x2doc at gmail.com <2x2doc at gmail.com> wrote: > > I'm redoing the brakes on my 1959 BT7. I've replaced the brake lines and > > added a Powertune brake booster. I bled the brakes using an Ezeebleed > > system. The problem is that the booster won't release once I've applied > the > > brakes (it eventually releases but can take a couple of minutes) I've > > mounted the booster just like the instructions say. The brakes work fine > if > > I disconnect the vacuum line (and plug the manifold). I've bled the > brakes > > numerous times and it always hangs up. Anyone have any ideas? > > Pat Williams > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > -- _______________________________________________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Mar 28 14:49:20 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 23:49:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals In-Reply-To: <000301cacebb$5a8089e0$0f819da0$@net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> , <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> <000301cacebb$5a8089e0$0f819da0$@net> Message-ID: <4BAFCEE0.2020500@chello.nl> First check and clean all earth connections, souns a bit like an earthing problem somewhere along the line. Check the connections on your switch using a bulb/battery or ohm/volt meter. Do not trust the "experts" without question. Check the wattage of the bulbs used. If these are not correct ,systems may not work properly Kees Oudesluijs NL Ron Ray schreef: > Folks, > > We are having trouble determining the cause of some turn signal issues on a > friend's 1960 BN7. The car is near the end of a frame up restoration so all > components are new or rebuilt. From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Mar 28 15:18:51 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 18:18:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 Message-ID: <20100328.151901.17206.181220@mailpop03.dca.untd.com> I have a core speedo for the BN4-BN6. The face is very good and just needs cleaning. The case is excellent with no rust. There is no needle and the odometer reset knob is missing. The glass is clear with no scratches and the bezel is quite good. If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Hotel Hotel pics, info and virtual tours. Click here to book a hotel online. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=VbAsxhWRN4HeBjPAjCOBPAAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATRAAAAAA= From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 28 16:38:15 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 18:38:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals In-Reply-To: <4BAFCEE0.2020500@chello.nl> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> , <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> <000301cacebb$5a8089e0$0f819da0$@net> <4BAFCEE0.2020500@chello.nl> Message-ID: <000001cacecf$bd171880$37454980$@net> Thanks Kees. How does the turn signal switch achieve the ground that is illustrated in the wiring diagram. None of the 4 wires exiting the end of the steering column are ground wires. The reason I ask is because the car in question has an aftermarket steering wheel. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 4:49 PM To: Ron Ray Cc: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signals First check and clean all earth connections, souns a bit like an earthing problem somewhere along the line. Check the connections on your switch using a bulb/battery or ohm/volt meter. Do not trust the "experts" without question. Check the wattage of the bulbs used. If these are not correct ,systems may not work properly Kees Oudesluijs NL Ron Ray schreef: > Folks, > > We are having trouble determining the cause of some turn signal issues on a > friend's 1960 BN7. The car is near the end of a frame up restoration so all > components are new or rebuilt. From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Mar 28 16:47:26 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:47:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] please share any experience with this top Message-ID: <173126441003281647j74761941j5fe1f9acd3af4fcc@mail.gmail.com> *http://tinyurl.com/yfhz9xv* * * *Thanks * -- I Erbs 60 BT7 6722 Portland, OR From drberkowitz at hotmail.com Sun Mar 28 16:53:47 2010 From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 19:53:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Passover Message-ID: Wishing all members of the tribes a very happy, healthy and sweet Passover. _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 28 16:57:19 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 07:57:19 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals In-Reply-To: <000301cacebb$5a8089e0$0f819da0$@net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> <000301cacebb$5a8089e0$0f819da0$@net> Message-ID: Ron - If you suspect the trafficator / control head, then you should put your electical testor on the wires coming out the steering box and check. If you have a problem there just chase it back to the control head unit. Usually problems here are very simple to fix. John Sims site has a good article on the control head and all the pieces. Alan On 3/29/10, Ron Ray wrote: > Folks, > > We are having trouble determining the cause of some turn signal issues on a > friend's 1960 BN7. The car is near the end of a frame up restoration so all > components are new or rebuilt. > > Background: > 1. The flasher unit has been determined to be defective so we have > bypassed it by disconnecting the wire s and connecting the wire for the "B" > terminal to the wire for the "L" terminal. > 2. The turn signal relay has been replaced with a new electronic unit > which was bench tested with 12 volts and determined to be functional. > 3. All wiring, except the wires that connect inside the turn signal > switch at the steering wheel have been checked several times for correct > installation and connections. > 4. The turn signal switch was rebuilt by someone we understand to be an > expert. However, moving the turn signal switch to the right turns on the > left front and rear turn signal lights, and turning switch to the left > results in no lights tuning on. > 5. The horn button works. > 6. The brake lights work > 7. The parking lights work front and back. > 8. Rear reflectors have been converted to brake/signal lights. > When going through the test outlined in the Workshop Manual under Section > N.14, the following results occur. > 1. 12 volts are present at terminal 1of the turn signal relay > 2. Linking terminal 1 to terminal 2 turns on the left front turn signal > light. > 3. Linking terminal 1 to terminal 6 turns on the right front turn signal > light > 4. Linking terminal 1 to terminal 3 causes both taillights to illuminate > under the flasher filament. > 5. Linking terminal 1 to terminal 7 causes both taillights to illuminate > under the flasher filament. > We are completely confused as to why all rear turn signal/brake lights come > on at the same time > > We do suspect that the wires in the turn signal switch are part of the > problem as at least two wires are connected to the wrong terminals. > We wonder if a broken or grounded out wire inside the stator tube could > cause all rear lights to come on at the same time during the testing of the > relay > > Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide. > > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Mar 28 17:24:19 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 20:24:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] please share any experience with this top In-Reply-To: <173126441003281647j74761941j5fe1f9acd3af4fcc@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126441003281647j74761941j5fe1f9acd3af4fcc@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <006801caced6$5cc5cab0$16516010$@net> Ira, listing has been removed. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 7:47 PM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] please share any experience with this top *http://tinyurl.com/yfhz9xv* * * *Thanks * -- I Erbs 60 BT7 6722 Portland, OR _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Mar 28 17:32:25 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 17:32:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Passover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <173126441003281732v1a09ebbds9db97d9b2fe82e44@mail.gmail.com> Thanks, Right back at you and all the MOTT On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 4:53 PM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > Wishing all members of the tribes a very happy, healthy and sweet Passover. > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Mar 28 17:33:40 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 17:33:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] please share any experience with this top In-Reply-To: <006801caced6$5cc5cab0$16516010$@net> References: <173126441003281647j74761941j5fe1f9acd3af4fcc@mail.gmail.com> <006801caced6$5cc5cab0$16516010$@net> Message-ID: <173126441003281733r37e20fe0q6213fdc93e888c91@mail.gmail.com> well I guess that answers my question.... On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 5:24 PM, John Sims wrote: > Ira, listing has been removed. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of I Erbs > Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 7:47 PM > To: healey help > Subject: [Healeys] please share any experience with this top > > *http://tinyurl.com/yfhz9xv* > * > * > *Thanks > * > -- > I Erbs > 60 BT7 6722 > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > > > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Mar 28 18:02:33 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 21:02:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals In-Reply-To: <000001cacecf$bd171880$37454980$@net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> , <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net> <000301cacebb$5a8089e0$0f819da0$@net> <4BAFCEE0.2020500@chello.nl> <000001cacecf$bd171880$37454980$@net> Message-ID: <4BAFFC29.1060301@earthlink.net> The horn is grounded through the stator tube/steering wheel/column. There is a flat copper ring between the stator tube and the control head. The turn signal is grounded at the light bulbs. Power goes to the control head on the green wire and returns on either the green/yellow or green/blue depending on the switch position. Green/Yellow Right turn signal Green Turn signal power Green/Blue Left turn signal Brown/Black Horn Ron Ray wrote: > Thanks Kees. > > How does the turn signal switch achieve the ground that is illustrated in > the wiring diagram. None of the 4 wires exiting the end of the steering > column are ground wires. > The reason I ask is because the car in question has an aftermarket steering > wheel. > > Ron > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] > Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 4:49 PM > To: Ron Ray > Cc: 'healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signals > > First check and clean all earth connections, souns a bit like an > earthing problem somewhere along the line. > Check the connections on your switch using a bulb/battery or ohm/volt > meter. Do not trust the "experts" without question. > Check the wattage of the bulbs used. If these are not correct ,systems > may not work properly > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Ron Ray schreef: >> Folks, >> >> We are having trouble determining the cause of some turn signal issues on > a >> friend's 1960 BN7. The car is near the end of a frame up restoration so > all >> components are new or rebuilt. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From 57healey at gmail.com Sun Mar 28 18:13:56 2010 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 20:13:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Buying a car online Message-ID: <743b1e2f1003281813kc159771n75fbf6433c5748fe@mail.gmail.com> I am looking for another car (non Healey, its a Saab) to join the Healey in the toy stable. I have been looking since mid December, and think I just found the car I want in Santa Fe. I have contacted a shop there that has a good, long standing reputation in the Saab world, and they know the car and owner pretty well, and will do a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection for me at a reasonable fee. The plan WAS, if the pre-inspection goes well and the price is agreed to, to fly over inspect the car and drive it back (about 10 hours). The problem is things are starting to come up that may keep my from flying over and driving back. The cost to ship is only about $100 more than a plane ticket, 1 hotel room, then the gas it would take me to make the drive. If I decide to take the right on buying it without the personal inspection but rely on the shop inspection, what is the best way to handle the money/title transfer. When I did this on the Healey, we just exchanged fedex's, but I know that was a risk. Any suggestions to protect that I get the car and the title if I send the money? Patton -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." From al at bighealey.org Sun Mar 28 19:18:44 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 22:18:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Buying a car online In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f1003281813kc159771n75fbf6433c5748fe@mail.gmail.com> References: <743b1e2f1003281813kc159771n75fbf6433c5748fe@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <003701cacee6$29036a10$7b0a3e30$@org> Patton: Not to throw cold water on your plan, but the shop that "knows the car and owner pretty well" has a vested interest in ensuring the car gets a 'pass' on the pre-purchase inspection. Is there no one else who can do the inspection, such as a dealer or other shop, who is not an interested party? On to actually answering your question, if anyone on the list is an attorney and is in the area, I suspect they could act as your escrow agent. Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 9:14 PM To: Healey List; Shop-Talk Subject: [Healeys] Buying a car online I am looking for another car (non Healey, its a Saab) to join the Healey in the toy stable. I have been looking since mid December, and think I just found the car I want in Santa Fe. I have contacted a shop there that has a good, long standing reputation in the Saab world, and they know the car and owner pretty well, and will do a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection for me at a reasonable fee. The plan WAS, if the pre-inspection goes well and the price is agreed to, to fly over inspect the car and drive it back (about 10 hours). The problem is things are starting to come up that may keep my from flying over and driving back. The cost to ship is only about $100 more than a plane ticket, 1 hotel room, then the gas it would take me to make the drive. If I decide to take the right on buying it without the personal inspection but rely on the shop inspection, what is the best way to handle the money/title transfer. When I did this on the Healey, we just exchanged fedex's, but I know that was a risk. Any suggestions to protect that I get the car and the title if I send the money? Patton -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/al at bighealey.org From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 28 21:47:04 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 12:47:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Buying a car online In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f1003281813kc159771n75fbf6433c5748fe@mail.gmail.com> References: <743b1e2f1003281813kc159771n75fbf6433c5748fe@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Patton - Buying classic cars online, sight unseen, is not for the timid, but at the end of the day I've done it three times and have been happy all three times. Main thing is to get as much info as possible from the seller, by phone and email, and if the flow of information is very good, you should be ok. If the flow of info is poor, then walk away. Alan On 3/29/10, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote: > I am looking for another car (non Healey, its a Saab) to join the Healey in > the toy stable. I have been looking since mid December, and think I just > found the car I want in Santa Fe. I have contacted a shop there that has a > good, long standing reputation in the Saab world, and they know the car and > owner pretty well, and will do a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection for > me at a reasonable fee. The plan WAS, if the pre-inspection goes well and > the price is agreed to, to fly over inspect the car and drive it back (about > 10 hours). The problem is things are starting to come up that may keep my > from flying over and driving back. > > The cost to ship is only about $100 more than a plane ticket, 1 hotel room, > then the gas it would take me to make the drive. > > If I decide to take the right on buying it without the personal inspection > but rely on the shop inspection, what is the best way to handle the > money/title transfer. When I did this on the Healey, we just exchanged > fedex's, but I know that was a risk. Any suggestions to protect that I get > the car and the title if I send the money? > > Patton > > -- > Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX > 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 28 23:59:01 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 02:59:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals Message-ID: <000401cacf0d$50405bc0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> No I was wrong. There is no ground wire coming out of the stator tube. 4 wires was correct. It is grounded internally as someone else mentioned. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Alan Seigrist" ; "Ron Ray" ; "healeys" Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 9:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signals > Easy to fix? You must be kidding me. Are you referring to a Healey > trafficator Rube Goldberg. For a > first timer, I seriously have to differ with you on this one Alan. Not a > simple area to mess with at all. > Especially if its still in the car. Diagram or not , its a fail first > , and succeed later event, IMHO. > > I would start at the turn signal box, (if you can still get to it ) take > off the connectors and reinstall each circuit and test their operation , > one at a time. Each circuit should work until you come up to the one that > is malfunctioning. > > Also, are you sure there is only 4 wires for the trafficator. My memory > says there should a ground coming > out there. I will double check my car tomorrow. > > Mark\ From warthodson at aol.com Mon Mar 29 06:56:57 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 09:56:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signals In-Reply-To: <000001cacecf$bd171880$37454980$@net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net>, <4BAEC9BC.6080906@comcast.net><000301cacebb$5a8089e0$0f819da0$@net> <4BAFCEE0.2020500@chello.nl> <000001cacecf$bd171880$37454980$@net> Message-ID: <8CC9D5ED496A723-1F50-311E2@webmail-m055.sysops.aol.com> Ron, You indicated the horn circuit is working correctly. Power flows thru both horns in parallel, then to the horn switch (button) in the trafficator then to ground, completing the circuit. So, that part of the trafficator is working correctly. Now test the turn signal part of the trafficator. Power flows up the trafficator stator tube to the right/left switch in the trafficator via the Green wire. Verify that you have power to the green wire by measuring voltage at the green wire connector before it enters the trafficator to ground. Make sure you are testing for voltage (not coutinuity) to any ground. Now test the left/right switch functionality in the trafficator. Activate the the left switch & check for power at either terminal 4 or 8 on the flasher relay to ground. The reason for checking both terminals 4 & 8 is because they could have been installed on the wrong terminals inside the trafficator. If either terminal 4 or 8 has power (with the switch activated) de-activate the switch to verify that the switch opens & no power should be detected. Now repeat the tests for the right switch, again checking for power at terminals 4 & 8 on the flasher relay box. Assuming everything checks out OK then you have eliminated the trafficator as the culprit. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Ron Ray To: 'Oudesluys' Cc: 'healeys' Sent: Sun, Mar 28, 2010 6:38 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signals Thanks Kees. ow does the turn signal switch achieve the ground that is illustrated in he wiring diagram. None of the 4 wires exiting the end of the steering olumn are ground wires. he reason I ask is because the car in question has an aftermarket steering heel. on ----Original Message----- rom: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] ent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 4:49 PM o: Ron Ray c: 'healeys' ubject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signals irst check and clean all earth connections, souns a bit like an arthing problem somewhere along the line. heck the connections on your switch using a bulb/battery or ohm/volt eter. Do not trust the "experts" without question. heck the wattage of the bulbs used. If these are not correct ,systems ay not work properly ees Oudesluijs L on Ray schreef: Folks, We are having trouble determining the cause of some turn signal issues on friend's 1960 BN7. The car is near the end of a frame up restoration so ll components are new or rebuilt. ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Mar 29 07:19:04 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 07:19:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Need a screw In-Reply-To: <02045313C2D242D29804E1F49CAC73A3@LIFEBOOK> References: <286663185.588938.1269695603422.JavaMail.root@cl04-host02.roch.ny.frontiernet.net> <02045313C2D242D29804E1F49CAC73A3@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <751d05481003290719h6924e8e1w824bdb9b6c314bda@mail.gmail.com> Listers, I purchased at least four of these from Daryl White over the years, my first two at Conclave in '92. To add what Rich has already described, Daryl had these made up from the original factory drawings and they were spot on correct! They were absolutely one of the best reproduction parts I've ever seen, and perfect. Daryl was planning to have the brass knurled thumb screws reproduced but he could mot source the correct knurling dies, and the project was cancelled. Also, there are three distinct knurling patterns throughout the 100 production; fine, medium, and coarse. When I first purchased these from Daryl, I had recently taken my original bolts to to a specialist who removes broken studs from items like manifolds and heads. They carefully removed the broken number 6 left hand screws from the bolts and then chased the holes for $45. However, I then still needed to make the screws, and have everything chrome plated which would have made the cost over $100. Daryl's complete chrome plated bolts and screws were only about $45 for the pair.. what a deal. I do know that the screws are being made but that still means that you will have to do as I did and remove the remains of the original broken screw and have the special bolt chrome plated. Contact me off list for details on availability of the screws. Cheers, Curt On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 2:24 PM, Rich C wrote: > Does anyone in Healeyland know where I can get the small screw that >> secures the windshield knob on a 100-4. The knob is the one that secures the >> windshield to the vertical windshield posts. The screws are very small. >> Thanks in advance, >> > > The late Daryl White, a great guy and a Healey enthusiast had about 25 > pairs made up complete with chrome pin and L/H thread screw and was selling > them out of his boot at Tahoe in '02. I bought two pair at the time. Both > pairs are in use on customers' cars. > This is definetly an item the Hundred owners need. > > Rich Chrysler _______________________________________________ From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 29 07:57:05 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 07:57:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube Replacement Material In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327200037.01fa40f8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327200037.01fa40f8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <44B05395-6AB2-42A1-B59B-21ED654BA67E@sbcglobal.net> The tubing is available in the same OD but the problem is getting it with the correct ID to allow the wires to be installed into the tube. We have the correct tube available with the cut already there avialable new. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Mar 27, 2010, at 8:08 PM, john spaur wrote: > I checked the archives but was not able to answer my question. > > Mine is cracked a the bottom of the adjustable slot and I was > wondering if the stator tube material a standard diameter and wall > thickness that can be found at a steel supplier? > > Thank you in advance. > John Spaur > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From Healey100M at gmail.com Mon Mar 29 08:06:58 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 11:06:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Sad News References: <9B768249369242BFBDFEC6DA7E485A5D@office> Message-ID: <598B6414-395F-4D8F-B108-A64CD5FAF328@gmail.com> Maybe this hit the list and I missed it. If not...... Randy > Most, if not all, of you are aware that Don Lenschow has, in his words, "....hit a little speed bump....". For those not aware, a few weeks ago, Don was diagnosed with Stage 4 Lung Cancer (non-small cell carcinoma). The cancer was found in several areas. His treatment began with radiation directed to shrink the tumor in his head. The results were positive. Next, he began receiving Chemo at three-week intervals. To date he has had two Chemo treatments. > > > > Last Monday, March 22nd, Don was readmitted to the hospital due to weakness and difficulty swallowing. The diagnosis was that one of the tumors was pressing on his esophagus. This tumor is now being treated daily with radiation -- with a total of ten daily treatments projected. > > > > This past Friday, Joyce and I visited with Kay and Don. Other than being bald and in the hospital, Don seemed to be doing fine. > > > > Kay called this morning, saying Don's defibrilator had been activated twice during the night. This afternoon, Kay indicated Don's heart was beating erratically, his blood pressure was unstable; and he had been relocated to the Cardiac Ward. We will be checking with Kay again tomorrow; and I will send periodic updates as to how Don is doing. > > > > If you would like to send a card, or get-well wish, Don's address is: > > Don Lenschow > > 467County Road 4593 > > Boyd, TX 76023-4401 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Mar 29 12:28:34 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 12:28:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] HBJ8L/27911 for sale Message-ID: <000701cacf76$0632bf00$12983d00$@rr.com> Hello, Healeyphiles - A few weeks ago, as a favor to a former lister, I posted a notice that a BT7 was for sale in New Jersey, with the information only as provided to me by the seller about the car's condition and asking price. Someone subsequently bought the car (apparently sight unseen) and was unhappy with the actual condition of the car as received versus the price paid. I found myself in the unintended and uncomfortable position of picking up clues that the buyer thought this was at least partially my fault. So... I have no personal knowledge of the condition or reasonableness of the asking price of the subject BJ8, do not personally know the seller, and am not endorsing either the integrity of the seller, the condition of the car, or the eventual selling price; but the current owner sent me the details of the car for the BJ8 registry and indicates that it is for sale. He requested that I publicize the availability of the car before he advertises it locally. I did not have a previous record of this car in the registry. The current owner purchased the car "recently" from the estate of the second owner. It has a documented 25,600 miles and is "original in every respect" except for the color change in the mid-'70s (green to red) and a new top in the early '80s. All maintenance records are available from 1984 (year of purchase by previous owner) and a driver's log showing total mileage since 1984 of 3,560 miles. Information about the previous two owners is available in the log and file for the car. All original manuals are included. More information and photos are available by contacting the seller, Mr. Ronald Cook, at roncook at videotron.ca. The car is located in a suburb of Montreal. Please contact Mr. Cook directly for additional information. Negotiations and selling price are up to the interested party. No selling price or range was mentioned to me. I am merely the messenger. Happy Healeying! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From cleona44 at hotmail.com Mon Mar 29 09:57:25 2010 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 12:57:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 Message-ID: My British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine for my BN4 should be"1CH /40757". However when I check the engine plate on the engine, the number begins with "ICH / 40757". Longbridge BN4 owners, could you check please to see if you have the same situation that I have noticed on my BN4. Does anyone know if this is unique with the method that the UK assigned their numbering method? Just as a side note, the engine number for my BN1 from the British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine number begins with "1B", and that number is what is located in the engine plate "1B"., so I am confused why the two numbering formats would not be consistent? Thanks in advance for any insight that can be provided. jim _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From warthodson at aol.com Mon Mar 29 10:04:06 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:04:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot Message-ID: <8CC9D78F9A7DB8E-488-196E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com> I recently purchased a rubber boot for a center shift transmission from Victoria British which they sourced from AH Spares. It has a lot of mold parting lines in it on the side that is visible when installed as original. Interestingly, the underside does not show these mold lines at all. Does anyone know of a source for this boot that does not have these lines on the visible side? Also, out of curiosity, were these lines visible on the original boots? Gary Hodson From pieters at pt.lu Mon Mar 29 10:35:01 2010 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:35:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops Message-ID: <9BBC3F06-4F95-4F20-B59B-7DFE22938698@pt.lu> Since bring my BJ7 to europe I have noticed that it does rather have a habit of raining here. Not to mention the snow and cold. In the interests of making the car more useful and "family" friendly I have decide to fit a hardtop. All the usual suppliers have their versions and the one from Pete Farmer looks pretty good too. If anybody has experience, good or bad, that they wish to pass on, I would appreciate it, cheers Pieter From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Mar 29 10:41:52 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:41:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot In-Reply-To: <8CC9D78F9A7DB8E-488-196E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC9D78F9A7DB8E-488-196E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000c01cacf67$1e6d6f70$5b484e50$@net> My BN6 was modified years ago to take a center shift tranny. I bought a boot last summer from Moss that does NOT have the mold parting lines that you mention. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 1:04 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot I recently purchased a rubber boot for a center shift transmission from Victoria British which they sourced from AH Spares. It has a lot of mold parting lines in it on the side that is visible when installed as original. Interestingly, the underside does not show these mold lines at all. Does anyone know of a source for this boot that does not have these lines on the visible side? Also, out of curiosity, were these lines visible on the original boots? Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From Editorgary at aol.com Mon Mar 29 10:45:26 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:45:26 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Buying at a distance Message-ID: <74665.7f5d12b2.38e24136@aol.com> In a message dated 3/29/10 10:37:13 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > The cost to ship is only about $100 more than a plane ticket, 1 hotel > room, > then the gas it would take me to make the drive. > > If I decide to take the right on buying it without the personal inspection > but rely on the shop inspection, what is the best way to handle the > money/title transfer. > Last time I researched this, I learned that the first-tier car transport companies (e.g. Passport which is owned by FedEx or someone now) generally have bonded drivers who can handle the actual transfer -- exchanging your check for the title, or the preferred way these days, accompanying the owner to the local bank to verify that your money has been transferred into their account from your bank, and simultaneously getting the signed title from the owner. Incidentally, if you throw in the value of your time, a car transport company is generally the more cost-efficient method, unless you're up for the adventure of a road-trip in a brand-new (to you) car. Cheers Gary From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Mar 29 13:49:14 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:49:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002901cacf81$4adc68d0$e0953a70$@rr.com> Jim, there are errors so frequently on the BMIHT certificates that I would guess the "1" on the certificate is another mistake for the "I" on the actual plate. The clerks who produce the certificates are probably not as familiar with the details of the cars as they should be and put on the certs what they think they are reading from the build card microfilm. I am not familiar with the BN4s, so I don't know whether the "1" or the "I" would be correct. I do know that typically the engine serial numbers for BJ8s on the certificates are given in the form 29K-RU-H/XXXX, whereas the actual engine serial plates are consistently stamped 29K/RU/HXXXX. In the BJ8 registry, I record the number as it is stamped on the plate. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lesher Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 9:57 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 My British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine for my BN4 should be"1CH /40757". However when I check the engine plate on the engine, the number begins with "ICH / 40757". Longbridge BN4 owners, could you check please to see if you have the same situation that I have noticed on my BN4. Does anyone know if this is unique with the method that the UK assigned their numbering method? Just as a side note, the engine number for my BN1 from the British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine number begins with "1B", and that number is what is located in the engine plate "1B"., so I am confused why the two numbering formats would not be consistent? Thanks in advance for any insight that can be provided. jim From warthodson at aol.com Mon Mar 29 11:02:07 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 14:02:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot In-Reply-To: <000c01cacf67$1e6d6f70$5b484e50$@net> References: <8CC9D78F9A7DB8E-488-196E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com> <000c01cacf67$1e6d6f70$5b484e50$@net> Message-ID: <8CC9D81147848AA-12DC-2193@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com> John, Thanks, I will order one from them. Did you install the boot with the bellows up & the center (the part around the shift lever) down or the other way around? Gary -----Original Message----- From: John Sims To: warthodson at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Mar 29, 2010 12:41 pm Subject: RE: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot My BN6 was modified years ago to take a center shift tranny. I bought a boot ast summer from Moss that does NOT have the mold parting lines that you ention. John Sims, BN6 berdeen, NJ ttp://www.healey6.com ----Original Message----- rom: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] n Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com ent: Monday, March 29, 2010 1:04 PM o: healeys at autox.team.net ubject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot I recently purchased a rubber boot for a center shift transmission from ictoria British which they sourced from AH Spares. It has a lot of mold arting lines in it on the side that is visible when installed as original. nterestingly, the underside does not show these mold lines at all. Does nyone know of a source for this boot that does not have these lines on the isible side? Also, out of curiosity, were these lines visible on the riginal oots? ary Hodson ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From bighealey3k at aim.com Mon Mar 29 11:14:25 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 14:14:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops In-Reply-To: <9BBC3F06-4F95-4F20-B59B-7DFE22938698@pt.lu> References: <9BBC3F06-4F95-4F20-B59B-7DFE22938698@pt.lu> Message-ID: <8CC9D82CC809BB6-1700-8F5@webmail-m053.sysops.aol.com> Pieter, I don't know if you have a source for a Parish Plastics hardtop that is manufactured by Smooth Line now. Here is their website: http://www.smoothline.com/austin_healey.php. I purchased mine back in the early 70's and have been very pleased with it ever since. The convertible top (Hood) stays with the car in it's folded position making it not necessary to remove it. I am including pics of my '67 BJ8 with the hardtop installed. img001.jpg, img002.jpg, img004.jpg Larry '67 BJ8 P.S. I know the list can't see attachments because they get stripped from the Emails. -----Original Message----- From: Pieter and Linda To: Healey forum Sent: Mon, Mar 29, 2010 1:35 pm Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops Since bring my BJ7 to europe I have noticed that it does rather have a habit of raining here. Not to mention the snow and cold. In the interests of making the car more useful and "family" friendly I have decide to fit a hardtop. All the usual suppliers have their versions and the one from Pete Farmer looks pretty good too. If anybody has experience, good or bad, that they wish to pass on, I would appreciate it, cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From shop at justbrits.com Mon Mar 29 12:33:47 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 14:33:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 In-Reply-To: <002901cacf81$4adc68d0$e0953a70$@rr.com> References: <002901cacf81$4adc68d0$e0953a70$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4BB1009B.1010009@justbrits.com> << I do know that typically the engine serial numbers for BJ8s on the certificates are given in the form 29K-RU-H/XXXX, whereas the actual engine serial plates are consistently stamped 29K/RU/HXXXX. >> Ditto BJ-7s, Steve. !! Er, except for "F" instead of "K" !! Me From bluehealey at gmail.com Mon Mar 29 12:38:06 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (AlanB) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 20:38:06 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 In-Reply-To: <002901cacf81$4adc68d0$e0953a70$@rr.com> References: <002901cacf81$4adc68d0$e0953a70$@rr.com> Message-ID: <3DEBE3DD33DD46EEBCB5AA1EED9A6BF4@Dell> Team. Even Anders Ditlev Clausager refers to the 2600cc engine numbers being pre-fixed '1C' in his Restorers guide. Also the Concours registry guidelines refer to 100-6 engine numbers pre-fixed '1C'. However it is without doubt absolutely certain that the representation on the engine plates of these early engines is clearly 'IC'. A pic of my engine plate can be found here: http://tinyurl.com/yhkon4e Flame away. _____________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lesher Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 9:57 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 My British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine for my BN4 should be"1CH /40757". However when I check the engine plate on the engine, the number begins with "ICH / 40757". Longbridge BN4 owners, could you check please to see if you have the same situation that I have noticed on my BN4. Does anyone know if this is unique with the method that the UK assigned their numbering method? Just as a side note, the engine number for my BN1 from the British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine number begins with "1B", and that number is what is located in the engine plate "1B"., so I am confused why the two numbering formats would not be consistent? Thanks in advance for any insight that can be provided. jim From bluehealey at gmail.com Mon Mar 29 13:42:39 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (AlanB) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:42:39 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 In-Reply-To: <3DEBE3DD33DD46EEBCB5AA1EED9A6BF4@Dell> References: <002901cacf81$4adc68d0$e0953a70$@rr.com> <3DEBE3DD33DD46EEBCB5AA1EED9A6BF4@Dell> Message-ID: <805510EA6D3D4F55984EE71A6DC818D5@Dell> More info Team. Page 83 of Anderson & Moment states: 'The first engines (listed in some references as "1C" engines, but marked on the number plates as "IC")....' Phew! I'm glad the gods agree. Flame suit off %^) _____________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Lesher Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 9:57 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 My British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine for my BN4 should be"1CH /40757". However when I check the engine plate on the engine, the number begins with "ICH / 40757". Longbridge BN4 owners, could you check please to see if you have the same situation that I have noticed on my BN4. Does anyone know if this is unique with the method that the UK assigned their numbering method? Just as a side note, the engine number for my BN1 from the British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine number begins with "1B", and that number is what is located in the engine plate "1B"., so I am confused why the two numbering formats would not be consistent? Thanks in advance for any insight that can be provided. jim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at googlemail.com From fietts02 at aol.com Mon Mar 29 15:10:29 2010 From: fietts02 at aol.com (fietts02 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:10:29 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops Message-ID: <4456f.21b6ff41.38e27f55@aol.com> Pete certainly makes a great product. I have talked with him about his tops on several occasions and seen one in person. I own or have owned factory style tops for my BJ7 ( from Cape) and My BJ8 from NIcal. I will be glad to share insight with you further if you wish. If you proceed with Pete you will be fine. Ken In a message dated 3/29/2010 1:52:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, pieters at pt.lu writes: Since bring my BJ7 to europe I have noticed that it does rather have a habit of raining here. Not to mention the snow and cold. In the interests of making the car more useful and "family" friendly I have decide to fit a hardtop. All the usual suppliers have their versions and the one from Pete Farmer looks pretty good too. If anybody has experience, good or bad, that they wish to pass on, I would appreciate it, cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fietts02 at aol.com From cleona44 at hotmail.com Mon Mar 29 16:34:01 2010 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:34:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 In-Reply-To: <805510EA6D3D4F55984EE71A6DC818D5@Dell> References: <002901cacf81$4adc68d0$e0953a70$@rr.com>, <3DEBE3DD33DD46EEBCB5AA1EED9A6BF4@Dell>, <805510EA6D3D4F55984EE71A6DC818D5@Dell> Message-ID: Alan - Thanks for the heads up for the p 83 reference in the A&M Gospel. I can't believe I missed that vital tidbit. But I wonder why there was no mention of this detail in the 2010 Originality Guide. But it is interesting that I have not had any response with the "1" noted. Everyone that has replied has noted that their engine number begins with the "I". so the mystery continues. I have written to "The Trust" and await their response. jim > From: bluehealey at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:42:39 +0100 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 > > More info Team. > Page 83 of Anderson & Moment states: > 'The first engines (listed in some references as "1C" engines, but marked on > the number plates as "IC")....' > > Phew! I'm glad the gods agree. Flame suit off > %^) > _____________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) > (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jim Lesher > Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 9:57 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Engine number "1"CH or "I"CH for the Longbridge BN4 > > My British Heritage Cert tells me that the engine for my BN4 should be"1CH > /40757". However when I check the engine plate on the engine, the number > begins with "ICH / 40757". Longbridge BN4 owners, could you check please to > see if you have the same situation that I have noticed on my BN4. Does > anyone > know if this is unique with the method that the UK assigned their numbering > method? > > Just as a side note, the engine number for my BN1 from the British Heritage > Cert tells me that the engine number begins with "1B", and that number is > what > is located in the engine plate "1B"., so I am confused why the two numbering > formats would not be consistent? > > Thanks in advance for any insight that can be provided. > > jim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at googlemail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Mar 29 17:27:26 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 17:27:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: So I hate to do it. But I have to put my Bj8 on the market if anyone is interested. Medical stuff. Let me know. Dick Matson / Bj8 Cashmere, WA From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Mar 29 17:53:55 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 08:53:55 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot In-Reply-To: <8CC9D81147848AA-12DC-2193@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC9D78F9A7DB8E-488-196E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com> <000c01cacf67$1e6d6f70$5b484e50$@net> <8CC9D81147848AA-12DC-2193@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Gary - The consensus is the centre shift boot went nipple down at the factory, but I have found that when combined with the little chrome fixing ring from Moss, that it works MUCH better nipple up. It will last much longer nipple up. I think the one on my BJ8 now has been going 10 years with no rips or tears. Previously with it installed nipple down, it was failing annually. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 2:02 AM, wrote: > John, > Thanks, I will order one from them. Did you install the boot with the > bellows > up & the center (the part around the shift lever) down or the other way > around? > Gary > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Sims > To: warthodson at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, Mar 29, 2010 12:41 pm > Subject: RE: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot > > > My BN6 was modified years ago to take a center shift tranny. I bought a > boot > ast summer from Moss that does NOT have the mold parting lines that you > ention. > John Sims, BN6 > berdeen, NJ > > ttp://www.healey6.com > > ----Original Message----- > rom: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] > n Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com > ent: Monday, March 29, 2010 1:04 PM > o: healeys at autox.team.net > ubject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot > I recently purchased a rubber boot for a center shift transmission from > ictoria British which they sourced from AH Spares. It has a lot of mold > arting lines in it on the side that is visible when installed as original. > nterestingly, the underside does not show these mold lines at all. Does > nyone know of a source for this boot that does not have these lines on the > isible side? Also, out of curiosity, were these lines visible on the > riginal > oots? > ary Hodson > ______________________________________________ > ealeys at autox.team.net > onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > uggested annual donation $12.75 > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe/Manage: > ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Mon Mar 29 18:13:53 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 21:13:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot In-Reply-To: References: <8CC9D78F9A7DB8E-488-196E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com> <000c01cacf67$1e6d6f70$5b484e50$@net> <8CC9D81147848AA-12DC-2193@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CC9DBD65F17814-2444-2A33@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> Alan, That is my understanding of the way they were originally installed, too. What seems strange is that the mold lines only show on the side that would be visible if installed as original. I am hoping that someone sells a boot with the mold lines on the underside when installed as original. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: ahbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Mar 29, 2010 7:53 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot Gary - The consensus is the centre shift boot went nipple down at the factory, but I have found that when combined with the little chrome fixing ring from Moss, that it works MUCH better nipple up. It will last much longer nipple up. I think the one on my BJ8 now has been going 10 years with no rips or tears. Previously with it installed nipple down, it was failing annually. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 2:02 AM, wrote: John, Thanks, I will order one from them. Did you install the boot with the bellows up & the center (the part around the shift lever) down or the other way around? Gary -----Original Message----- From: John Sims To: warthodson at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Mar 29, 2010 12:41 pm Subject: RE: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot My BN6 was modified years ago to take a center shift tranny. I bought a boot ast summer from Moss that does NOT have the mold parting lines that you ention. John Sims, BN6 berdeen, NJ ttp://www.healey6.com ----Original Message----- rom: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] n Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com ent: Monday, March 29, 2010 1:04 PM o: healeys at autox.team.net ubject: [Healeys] center shift rubber boot I recently purchased a rubber boot for a center shift transmission from ictoria British which they sourced from AH Spares. It has a lot of mold arting lines in it on the side that is visible when installed as original. nterestingly, the underside does not show these mold lines at all. Does nyone know of a source for this boot that does not have these lines on the isible side? Also, out of curiosity, were these lines visible on the riginal oots? ary Hodson ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 29 19:06:23 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:06:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube Replacement Material In-Reply-To: <4BAF3349.6040604@earthlink.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327200037.01fa40f8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4BAF3349.6040604@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100329190450.01fdb188@pop.att.yahoo.com> Thanks Bob! I remember trying to find 3/8" material a while back and I could not find steel. I found 316SS locally today. I will round the slot bottom too. John At 06:45 AM 3/28/2010 -0400, Bob Haskell wrote: >3/8" OD, 0.035" wall - McMaster Carr (http://www.mscdirect.com) I >used the 304SS welded tubing for mine, PN 01412311. There's >seamless or other materials (1010, 4130, etc). From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 29 19:19:57 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 19:19:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube Replacement Material In-Reply-To: <44B05395-6AB2-42A1-B59B-21ED654BA67E@sbcglobal.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100327200037.01fa40f8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <44B05395-6AB2-42A1-B59B-21ED654BA67E@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100329191721.0201a468@pop.att.yahoo.com> /1dgYTa: Permission denied From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Mar 29 19:35:14 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 22:35:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars Message-ID: Anyone know what happened with the Sprite on Pawn Stars??? Saw the ad saying it would be on. Maybe next week? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 29 20:25:36 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 23:25:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars References: Message-ID: <000a01cacfb8$aab57030$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Chumley couldn't fit. They thought it through and remembered that its important to buy things that have some resale value so they can make some money. Kidding. Maybe next week. On the American Pickers show they made a stop at Mathews MG, Healey, Triumph shop in Alabama. Pretty cool to see the inside of the shop that I have seen so many times on Ebay. However they were dealing on a motor scooter on that particular show. Still cool to see. Those guys do come across some really cool old cars. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "S and T Miller" To: Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 10:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars > Anyone know what happened with the Sprite on Pawn Stars??? Saw the ad > saying > it would be on. Maybe next week? > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850553/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From mark at bradakis.com Mon Mar 29 21:00:09 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 22:00:09 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars In-Reply-To: <000a01cacfb8$aab57030$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000a01cacfb8$aab57030$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4BB17749.5030606@bradakis.com> Well I feel stupid. I made some shrimp jambalaya for dinner. I thought we were discussing *prawn* stars! Back to Youtube and old Good Eats episodes for me. mjb. From bruce.silvers at bingham.com Tue Mar 30 06:37:52 2010 From: bruce.silvers at bingham.com (Silvers, Bruce C.) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 09:37:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 top Message-ID: I have purchased a Robbins everflex top and all of the hardware necessary to install it on my '54 100. Does anybody have any instructions and/or photos on how to fit it to the top frame and car? Any recommendations on who could assist me with this? (I'm in Connecticut.) ________________________________ Confidentiality Notice: The information in this e-mail (including attachments, if any) is considered confidential and is intended only for the recipient(s) listed above. Any review, use, disclosure, distribution or copying of this e-mail is prohibited except by or on behalf of the intended recipient. If you have received this email in error, please notify me immediately by reply email, delete this email, and do not disclose its contents to anyone. Bingham McCutchen LLP Circular 230 Notice: To ensure compliance with IRS requirements, we inform you that any U.S. federal tax advice contained in this communication is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used by any taxpayer, for the purpose of avoiding any federal tax penalties. Any legal advice expressed in this message is being delivered to you solely for your use in connection with the matters addressed herein and may not be relied upon by any other person or entity or used for any other purpose without our prior written consent. From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Tue Mar 30 11:00:41 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 20:00:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops In-Reply-To: <9BBC3F06-4F95-4F20-B59B-7DFE22938698@pt.lu> References: <9BBC3F06-4F95-4F20-B59B-7DFE22938698@pt.lu> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F301297519@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Hello Pieter, I am not sure, if you get your family in a Healey with a hardtop fitted. For me it seems not feasible to get the two children in the back seats, when a hardtop is installed. This years Winter was unusual also for us with lots of snow and there are plenty of nice weekend days in Spring and Summer to put the roof down. The usual showers we bridge by waiting under the roof of a filling station and most of these offer coffee. So its just to have a short rest till the shower is gone. Just my thoughts. All the best Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Pieter and Linda Gesendet: Montag, 29. Mdrz 2010 19:35 An: Healey forum Betreff: [Healeys] Hardtops Since bring my BJ7 to europe I have noticed that it does rather have a habit of raining here. Not to mention the snow and cold. In the interests of making the car more useful and "family" friendly I have decide to fit a hardtop. All the usual suppliers have their versions and the one from Pete Farmer looks pretty good too. If anybody has experience, good or bad, that they wish to pass on, I would appreciate it, cheers Pieter From healeyron at yahoo.com Tue Mar 30 12:56:36 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:56:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F301297519@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <9BBC3F06-4F95-4F20-B59B-7DFE22938698@pt.lu> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F301297519@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <912318.69489.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Pieter, There is a company in England that produces the original Healey Hardtops. I don't have a phone no. for them and they don't have a Web Site. They were in the States for Conclave 2008 as an Event sponsor. I have attached their price lists to this email but I'm not sure if it will get through to you. If it doesn't contact me off list and I will forward it to you. Their email address is nick at nicalenngineering.co.uk. I'm not sure the price list I have reflects current day prices so you would probably be better served to email them and request current information. Ron Mitchell ________________________________ From: "Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com" To: pieters at pt.lu; Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, March 30, 2010 2:00:41 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtops Hello Pieter, I am not sure, if you get your family in a Healey with a hardtop fitted. For me it seems not feasible to get the two children in the back seats, when a hardtop is installed. This years Winter was unusual also for us with lots of snow and there are plenty of nice weekend days in Spring and Summer to put the roof down. The usual showers we bridge by waiting under the roof of a filling station and most of these offer coffee. So its just to have a short rest till the shower is gone. Just my thoughts. All the best Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Pieter and Linda Gesendet: Montag, 29. Mdrz 2010 19:35 An: Healey forum Betreff: [Healeys] Hardtops Since bring my BJ7 to europe I have noticed that it does rather have a habit of raining here. Not to mention the snow and cold. In the interests of making the car more useful and "family" friendly I have decide to fit a hardtop. All the usual suppliers have their versions and the one from Pete Farmer looks pretty good too. If anybody has experience, good or bad, that they wish to pass on, I would appreciate it, cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of AUSTIN_HEALEY_HT_PRICE_LIST01.doc] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of AUSTIN_HEALEY_HT_PRICE_LIST02.doc] From jstmorris at yahoo.com Tue Mar 30 14:46:05 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 14:46:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops Message-ID: <78042.54189.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Pieter; Here is the website information for three of the major outfits in the UK that provide hardtops for the BJ8 [and others] Good luck. Nical Engineering http://www.nicalengineering.co.uk/ http://www.nicalengineering.co.uk/austin_parts.html Cape International http://www.cape-international.com/ http://www.cape-international.com/3000.php Pete Farmer Performance Racing Ltd " pete farmer" www.petefarmer.com http://www.petefarmer.com/hardtops.htm --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives Note: The first version of this was rather large and may not have gone through to the Healey List so this is a shorter response for all. __________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com. From racarbon at verizon.net Tue Mar 30 14:49:23 2010 From: racarbon at verizon.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 17:49:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents Message-ID: <31761C7F38AB4852B6FE6EC484A38EF5@rac> Hi All, Recently, I have been experimenting with a number of reversible alterations to improve engine cooling when under way. Recently, I have found a number of articles that indicated that vents created in the inner wheel well would greatly improve airflow through the engine compartment by taking advantage on the low pressure created by the moving wheel. Although the articles were addressing non-Healey models and these vents, when installed on a Healey, would seem be better located at the top of the well rather than further aft as described in the article. Has anyone tried this alternative to hood louvers or fender vents? If so, what was the effect? Thanks and all the best, Ray 64BJ8JP1 From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Mar 30 15:00:41 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 15:00:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] triple 2" manifold source Message-ID: <173126441003301500q140fe6d9g10751579dd38a8fb@mail.gmail.com> check out the bottom of the chart Manifold set for triple 2" SU carburretors.AEC1497#360 http://www.nicalengineering.co.uk/austin_parts.html -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Mar 30 15:38:43 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 22:38:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents In-Reply-To: <31761C7F38AB4852B6FE6EC484A38EF5@rac> Message-ID: <1086151386.2037001269988723976.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Sounds reasonable enough, but in my experience--and based on comments by others--the main cooling issue with Healeys is sitting in traffic on hot days. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Hi All, Recently, I have been experimenting with a number of reversible alterations to improve engine cooling when under way. Recently, I have found a number of articles that indicated that vents created in the inner wheel well would greatly improve airflow through the engine compartment by taking advantage on the low pressure created by the moving wheel. Although the articles were addressing non-Healey models and these vents, when installed on a Healey, would seem be better located at the top of the well rather than further aft as described in the article. Has anyone tried this alternative to hood louvers or fender vents? If so, what was the effect? Thanks and all the best, Ray 64BJ8JP1 _______________________________________________ From gbrierton at hotmail.com Tue Mar 30 16:29:46 2010 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 19:29:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents In-Reply-To: <1086151386.2037001269988723976.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1086151386.2037001269988723976.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: No Problem...just mount spinning "rails" on your front hubs! They'll keep spinning after you stop, creating the necessary low pressure. Be sure to also raise the car 6-12 inches. GaryB -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Spidell" Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 6:38 PM To: "Ray Carbone" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents > Sounds reasonable enough, but in my experience--and based on comments by > others--the main cooling issue with Healeys is sitting in traffic on hot > days. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > Hi All, > > > > Recently, I have been experimenting with a number of reversible > alterations to > improve engine cooling when under way. Recently, I have found a number of > articles that indicated that vents created in the inner wheel well would > greatly improve airflow through the engine compartment by taking advantage > on > the low pressure created by the moving wheel. > > > > Although the articles were addressing non-Healey models and these vents, > when > installed on a Healey, would seem be better located at the top of the well > rather than further aft as described in the article. Has anyone tried this > alternative to hood louvers or fender vents? If so, what was the effect? > > > > Thanks and all the best, > > Ray > > 64BJ8JP1 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton at hotmail.com From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Tue Mar 30 17:26:16 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 00:26:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel/Tire Sizes for BN6 with Drum Brakes In-Reply-To: <591994.1379.qm@web110813.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <591994.1379.qm@web110813.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Adam, Why in the world would you want to race a 100-6 with drum brakes. You can simply bolt up 3000 disc brakes to your 100-6 spindles. If you think you are doing this to keep the car "original" then think again. A 3000 is a 100-6 with disc brakes and 273 more cc's of engine displacement. Racing is dangerous. Disc brakes allow you to race hard and stay alive, that's why race cars have disc brakes. There is no difference in the fitment or offset of drum brake cars . If you are using wire wheels on a drum brake car then you cannot use the 60 spoke wheels - there is spoke interference with the drum. Maybe you can use 72 spoke wheels with drums - I do not know. The spindles are the same on BN4, BN6, BN7, BT7, and BJ7 cars. There never was any adjustment to "accommodate" drums. l hope you will reconsider racing with drum brakes. But, what do you consider "racing". Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:14:15 -0700 > From: adamnolde at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheel/Tire Sizes for BN6 with Drum Brakes > > All, > > I am in serious need of help. I'm setting up my drum brake BN6 for racing. I'm realizing there is an issue with the fitment of the wheels and tires. > > Currently the car has 4"x15" 48 spoke wheels with 165/80 rubber. We have removed the front spring and jacked the suspension up until the tire is inside the fender. There is less then 1/4" of room on the outside of the tire wall for clearance. However, on the inside of the wheel well I have enough room to park a blimp. I am seeing that everything is offset toward the outside of the car to accommodate the brake drums. > > Hendrix suggested the Dayton 459 5"x15" 72 spoke wheel, which they generally sell for BN1-2's with drum brakes. It has a 3.38" offset. > > Does anyone have experience with 5" wheels on a drum brake BN6, if so, which wheels are you using and what size rubber can you fit? Does it make sense to use the same width and offset both front and rear, or can I get an advantage going to 5.5" rear wheel? > > I am also hoping to lower my suspension a little to make things even more difficult. > > Regards, > > adam nolde > HBJ8L30805 > BN6L 2795 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390710/direct/01/ From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Tue Mar 30 17:39:48 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 00:39:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents In-Reply-To: <31761C7F38AB4852B6FE6EC484A38EF5@rac> References: <31761C7F38AB4852B6FE6EC484A38EF5@rac> Message-ID: I did not know that the "moving wheel" created "low pressure" that would suck heat out of the engine bay if vents were installed in the wheel wells. I always thought that the wheel wells were there to protect the engine bay from all of the crap that those "moving wheels" would throw up into the engine bay - like water, dirt, sand, grit, gravel, etc. I think the works had it right by putting the vents in the fenders behind the wheel wells. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: racarbon at verizon.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 17:49:23 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents > > Hi All, > > > > Recently, I have been experimenting with a number of reversible alterations to > improve engine cooling when under way. Recently, I have found a number of > articles that indicated that vents created in the inner wheel well would > greatly improve airflow through the engine compartment by taking advantage on > the low pressure created by the moving wheel. > > > > Although the articles were addressing non-Healey models and these vents, when > installed on a Healey, would seem be better located at the top of the well > rather than further aft as described in the article. Has anyone tried this > alternative to hood louvers or fender vents? If so, what was the effect? > > > > Thanks and all the best, > > Ray > > 64BJ8JP1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390710/direct/01/ From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 30 19:16:14 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 19:16:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Day at Blackhawk Farms Message-ID: <476744.51595.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Conclave 2010 has added a "post" Conclave Driver Education Day at Blackhawk Farms Raceway. Details can be found on the Conclave 2010 website http://www.austinhealeyconclave.com From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Mar 30 21:17:57 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 00:17:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents In-Reply-To: <31761C7F38AB4852B6FE6EC484A38EF5@rac> References: <31761C7F38AB4852B6FE6EC484A38EF5@rac> Message-ID: <8CC9EA046C025E8-19F4-153E3@webmail-d025.sysops.aol.com> Ray I owned a modified 100 for a number of years that had the front wheel wells perforated with various sized holes. They were mainly in the vertical portion of the panel adjacent to the shroud support. It didn't really impact the water, stone, etc control. With the engine running, in my case a 355 Chevy, you could feel the hot air escaping through the holes. Must say that those holes were not where the biggest hot air volume left the bay, at idle. At speed I have no idea how well the holes worked. I was smiling to much to care. Holes or not, cooling of any sized engine has much to do with air flow. I had a fully shrouded radiator front and back. With a four or six in the engine bay there is a lot of room for the post radiator air to leavethe engine bay around the engine. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Ray Carbone To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Mar 30, 2010 11:49 am Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents Hi All, Recently, I have been experimenting with a number of reversible alterations to improve engine cooling when under way. Recently, I have found a number of articles that indicated that vents created in the inner wheel well would greatly improve airflow through the engine compartment by taking advantage on the low pressure created by the moving wheel. Although the articles were addressing non-Healey models and these vents, when installed on a Healey, would seem be better located at the top of the well rather than further aft as described in the article. Has anyone tried this alternative to hood louvers or fender vents? If so, what was the effect? Thanks and all the best, Ray 64BJ8JP1 From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 31 07:16:33 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 22:16:33 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Message-ID: All - Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me what type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts and screws. The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the early numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. Many thanks, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From mgcharlie at comcast.net Wed Mar 31 07:35:06 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 10:35:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 with drum brakes Message-ID: <4BB35D9A.8020009@comcast.net> Richard, I totally believe what you are saying because I fitted MGA front disc brakes to the spindles on my MG TD street car and the difference in braking is like night and day. However, don't the various vintage racing organizations have rules pertaining to this sort of modification? I've not seen any MG TDs racing with front disc brakes. It is the same situation with fitting a later model's brakes to an earlier car's stub axles. I suppose that some organizations are more stringent than others. Correct? Thanks for your insight. Charlie Baldwin richard mayor wrote: Adam, Why in the world would you want to race a 100-6 with drum brakes. You can simply bolt up 3000 disc brakes to your 100-6 spindles. If you think you are doing this to keep the car "original" then think again. A 3000 is a 100-6 with disc brakes and 273 more cc's of engine displacement. Racing is dangerous. Disc brakes allow you to race hard and stay alive, that's why race cars have disc brakes. There is no difference in the fitment or offset of drum brake cars . If you are using wire wheels on a drum brake car then you cannot use the 60 spoke wheels - there is spoke interference with the drum. Maybe you can use 72 spoke wheels with drums - I do not know. The spindles are the same on BN4, BN6, BN7, BT7, and BJ7 cars. There never was any adjustment to "accommodate" drums. l hope you will reconsider racing with drum brakes. But, what do you consider "racing". Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Mar 31 08:04:07 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 11:04:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00f501cad0e3$6a23b8c0$3e6b2a40$@net> Alan, look here: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Fasteners.xls John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 10:17 AM To: Healey; John Harper Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter All - Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me what type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts and screws. The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the early numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. Many thanks, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Mar 31 08:45:21 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 08:45:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <751d05481003310845h22bcc797i58c815713dcc8e27@mail.gmail.com> Alan, Unfortunately, with regard to BSF and other Whitworth fasteners it's not very easy or user friendly. Most BSF fasteners in the 100 parts book are listed by a BMC part number which does nothing to identify the size or type of the fastener. What is needed is for someone to sit down with the parts book and bake a chart, and I may have some info for you but I'll have to dig it up, so more on this a little later. Curt On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 7:16 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me what > type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts and > screws. > > The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the early > numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. > > Many thanks, > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From grday at btinternet.com Wed Mar 31 08:48:54 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 16:48:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter References: Message-ID: Alan, There is a BMC Fastener Decode booklet, part number, AKD2239 which is a 12 page PDF. It only covers UNC, washers and UNF but I can forward a copy of that if you wish. I can't recall where I downloaded it from, sorry. Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 3:16 PM Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter > All - > > Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me what > type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts > and > screws. > > The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the early > numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. > > Many thanks, > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Mar 31 09:37:28 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 12:37:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: References: , <00f501cad0e3$6a23b8c0$3e6b2a40$@net> Message-ID: <001001cad0f0$744fdd80$5cef9880$@net> There are other fastener documents in Excel format in the Miscellaneous section of the Technical page of my site covering BJ8 and other models. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From: Jim Lesher [mailto:cleona44 at hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 12:14 PM To: john sims Subject: RE: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter John - that is great - do you happen to have that for the BN4?? thanks - jim lesher > From: ahbn6 at verizon.net > To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net; AH at jharper.demon.co.uk > Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 11:04:07 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter > > Alan, look here: > > http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Fasteners.xls > > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 10:17 AM > To: Healey; John Harper > Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter > > All - > > Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me what > type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts and > screws. > > The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the early > numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. > > Many thanks, > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com _____ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get started. From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Mar 31 09:51:16 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 08:51:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Wheel/Tire_Sizes_for_BN6_with_Drum_Brake?= =?iso-8859-1?q?s?= Message-ID: <20100331165116.22254.qmail@hoster902.com> My car has 5.5" 72-spoke Daytons - the offset for the drum brake cars is per the TR6 if I recall correctly - Hendrix would know. The spokes on this design do not cross front to back as do those of the 60. BN7s use a different 72-spoker for the disc brakes. Spokes are crossed similar to a 60-spoker. I've observed both of these as my neighbor Dennis Williams just bought a BN7 with 72s on it. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA BN6 From racarbon at verizon.net Wed Mar 31 11:17:42 2010 From: racarbon at verizon.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 14:17:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents Message-ID: Hi Perry, Although I do like the look of the fender vents, the idea of implementing a few out and downward facing louvers on the top of the wheel well to improve air flow and reduce high pressure within the engine compartment would be an effort I can handle. The thought is that this modification would capitalize on the low pressure created within the well to extract heat while reducing engine compartment pressure and, therefore, will improve air flow and cooling system efficiency. This alteration is relatively inconspicuous and easily reversible (with a panel) making the effort and cost of this project substantially lower than implementing fender vents. The concept seems well proven with many vintage racing examples, however, I am a little concerned that none were Healeys and was hopping that the list could provide some experiences. Thanks for your response and all the best, Ray 64BJ8P1 From brunoverstraete at mac.com Wed Mar 31 11:24:31 2010 From: brunoverstraete at mac.com (Bruno Verstraete) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 20:24:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop BJ7 4-seater Message-ID: <921D33AE-4321-4B05-B1A6-8DF1FBCACF63@mac.com> Dear Healey folks, i just recently bought a hardtop for my BJ8. this was not a factory build hardtop, but provided by another company. The advantage of this one is that you don't need to remove the hood in order to fix the hardtop. it looks quite different than the 2 seater hardtops. It is high enough for 2 kids to be seated nice and cosy. I would recommend it to all. Kindest regards, Bruno Verstraete Zurich, Switzerland From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Mar 31 11:36:57 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 11:36:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: <00f501cad0e3$6a23b8c0$3e6b2a40$@net> References: <00f501cad0e3$6a23b8c0$3e6b2a40$@net> Message-ID: <751d05481003311136m20ba276fwb82035fc9eb2df7b@mail.gmail.com> John, Nice chart, but which model Healey are they for? Plus we all know the BMC coding for UNF Fasteners, but this is NOT what Alan needs. What he needs is someone to do a spreadsheet showing the size and thread of BSF, BSW, BSP or BA fasteners as they correspond to the BMC part numbers in the parts book. This is a project that Roger Moment and I have talked about doing for some years now but haven't gotten around to doing it yet. For example, my 100 Parts books lists the three (3) nuts that hold the "Front Cover for Water Gallery" and the four (4) "Nuts for studs" on the carburetor "Balance pipe" as *2K 3975*. It would be nice to know that this part number corresponds to a 1/4 BSF standard nut. I may already have some if this info, I just need to research and find it and then I'll publish it on the list. Cheers, Curt On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 8:04 AM, John Sims wrote: > Alan, look here: > > http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Fasteners.xls > > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 10:17 AM > To: Healey; John Harper > Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter > > All - > > Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me what > type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts and > screws. > > The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the early > numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. > > Many thanks, > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Wed Mar 31 12:45:07 2010 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 12:45:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Day at Blackhawk Farms In-Reply-To: <476744.51595.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <476744.51595.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have done quite a few DE's with my "German" cars and after looking at this inclusion of a DE at Blackhawk Farms which I drove a few times back in the early '70's, where are the tech sheets to be found for my BN7? and, any thoughts where the car would be teched? I am in process of considering the addition ( I have one in process maybe) of a roll bar (obviously mandatory). Brakes, tires, lights, etc are all in good shape as is the engine and I do understand the risks associated with these events as I do 3 or 4 a year here in the area. Not committing yet, but interested ... I live in Bowling Green, KY... Richard of KY BN7 #440 > Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 19:16:14 -0700 > From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Healey Day at Blackhawk Farms > > Conclave 2010 has added a "post" Conclave Driver Education Day at Blackhawk Farms Raceway. > > Details can be found on the Conclave 2010 website > http://www.austinhealeyconclave.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Mar 31 12:56:53 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 15:56:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: <751d05481003311136m20ba276fwb82035fc9eb2df7b@mail.gmail.com> References: <00f501cad0e3$6a23b8c0$3e6b2a40$@net> <751d05481003311136m20ba276fwb82035fc9eb2df7b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <002701cad10c$4fd2fac0$ef78f040$@net> This particular spread sheet was sent to me by one of our friends in Europe (I forget who) with an indication that it would be updated at a future date. As far as your example is concerned, the spread sheet, shows that the Nuts for studs part number 2K3975 are 1/4 BSF. Browsing down the list I see that this same part number was used for nuts on different parts of the car which would make sense to me. Engine mounting bracket uses Hex screws part HZS0608 which is shown as a 3/8 USF one inch long zinc bolt. Etc. This list was compiled for a BN2 and is by no means complete but I doubt if the part numbers were different for the same fastener in the other models. But, not to disparage the English, one never knows. In any event, if the person who gave this to me is still monitoring the list, hopefully he will have made additions. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 2:37 PM To: John Sims Cc: Alan Seigrist; Healey; John Harper Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter John, Nice chart, but which model Healey are they for? Plus we all know the BMC coding for UNF Fasteners, but this is NOT what Alan needs. What he needs is someone to do a spreadsheet showing the size and thread of BSF, BSW, BSP or BA fasteners as they correspond to the BMC part numbers in the parts book. This is a project that Roger Moment and I have talked about doing for some years now but haven't gotten around to doing it yet. For example, my 100 Parts books lists the three (3) nuts that hold the "Front Cover for Water Gallery" and the four (4) "Nuts for studs" on the carburetor "Balance pipe" as 2K 3975. It would be nice to know that this part number corresponds to a 1/4 BSF standard nut. I may already have some if this info, I just need to research and find it and then I'll publish it on the list. Cheers, Curt From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Mar 31 12:57:39 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 15:57:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop BJ7 4-seater In-Reply-To: <921D33AE-4321-4B05-B1A6-8DF1FBCACF63@mac.com> References: <921D33AE-4321-4B05-B1A6-8DF1FBCACF63@mac.com> Message-ID: <002c01cad10c$6b137350$413a59f0$@net> And from which company did you purchase it? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruno Verstraete Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 2:25 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop BJ7 4-seater Dear Healey folks, i just recently bought a hardtop for my BJ8. this was not a factory build hardtop, but provided by another company. The advantage of this one is that you don't need to remove the hood in order to fix the hardtop. it looks quite different than the 2 seater hardtops. It is high enough for 2 kids to be seated nice and cosy. I would recommend it to all. Kindest regards, Bruno Verstraete Zurich, Switzerland _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From Editorgary at aol.com Wed Mar 31 13:55:18 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 16:55:18 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Disc Brakes and vintage racing rules Message-ID: <728cb.104f9fc1.38e510b6@aol.com> In a message dated 3/31/10 12:01:16 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Richard, > I totally believe what you are saying because I fitted MGA front disc > brakes to the spindles on my MG TD street car and the difference in > braking is like night and day. > However, don't the various vintage racing organizations have rules > pertaining to this sort of modification? I've not seen any MG TDs > racing with front disc brakes. It is the same situation with fitting a > later model's brakes to an earlier car's stub axles. > I suppose that some organizations are more stringent than others. > Correct? > Thanks for your insight. > Charlie Baldwin > Each individual vintage racing group has its own rules and interpretations of them can change over time. That having been said, with my group (Classic Sports Racing Group) as an example... We require our cars to be prepared according to the SCCA rules of the time the person is using as their base time period. These can be no later than 1967. So, during that period SCCA permitted Healey drivers to upgrade their cars to more recent specifications than when they were built, including addition of front disc brakes, and larger engines. In addition, a limited number of modifications were permitted, including rear disc brakes and limited-slip differentials. Personally, I wouldn't race a Healey on the track, but many people do, with good result. I race an MGA, with a 1622 engine, MGB front spindles and brakes, and a limited-slip diff, but I'm required to use only two SU carbs, Girling box shocks, a four-speed MGA transmission, etc. Cheers gary From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Mar 31 13:57:01 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 13:57:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: <002701cad10c$4fd2fac0$ef78f040$@net> References: <00f501cad0e3$6a23b8c0$3e6b2a40$@net> <751d05481003311136m20ba276fwb82035fc9eb2df7b@mail.gmail.com> <002701cad10c$4fd2fac0$ef78f040$@net> Message-ID: John, Thanks for the clarification, since I neglected to move the spreadsheet left to see everything on the right. That being said, and as you've stated, the list is mostly incomplete with regard to the various Whitworth fasteners on this particular BN2. This is exactly what Roger and I had inteneded to do and it looks like this would be nice to have if I or someone else has the time to compile the data. Cheers, Curt On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 12:56 PM, John Sims wrote: > *This particular spread sheet was sent to me by one of our friends in > Europe (I forget who) with an indication that it would be updated at a > future date. As far as your example is concerned, the spread sheet, shows > that the Nuts for studs part number 2K3975 are 1/4 BSF. Browsing down the > list I see that this same part number was used for nuts on different parts > of the car which would make sense to me. Engine mounting bracket uses Hex > screws part HZS0608 which is shown as a 3/8 USF one inch long zinc bolt. > Etc.* > > * * > > *This list was compiled for a BN2 and is by no means complete but I doubt > if the part numbers were different for the same fastener in the other > models. But, not to disparage the English, one never knows.* > > * * > > *In any event, if the person who gave this to me is still monitoring the > list, hopefully he will have made additions.* > > * * > > *John Sims, BN6* > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > http://www.healey6.com > > * * > > *From:* Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 31, 2010 2:37 PM > *To:* John Sims > *Cc:* Alan Seigrist; Healey; John Harper > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter > > > > John, > > Nice chart, but which model Healey are they for? > > Plus we all know the BMC coding for UNF Fasteners, but this is NOT what > Alan needs. What he needs is someone to do a spreadsheet showing the size > and thread of BSF, BSW, BSP or BA fasteners as they correspond to the BMC > part numbers in the parts book. This is a project that Roger Moment and I > have talked about doing for some years now but haven't gotten around to > doing it yet. > > For example, my 100 Parts books lists the three (3) nuts that hold the > "Front Cover for Water Gallery" and the four (4) "Nuts for studs" on the > carburetor "Balance pipe" as *2K 3975*. It would be nice to know that > this part number corresponds to a 1/4 BSF standard nut. > > I may already have some if this info, I just need to research and find it > and then I'll publish it on the list. > > Cheers, > > Curt From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Wed Mar 31 14:27:19 2010 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 17:27:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Marangoni tire Message-ID: <879AAEFE-06DB-468D-831D-5E5112F3E16C@cgocable.ca> Anyone have knowledge or experience with this trade mark Marangoni tire out there ? Marangoni 175 65/15 79.90$ cnd$ http://www.guideautoweb.com/articles/73/ http://www.marangoni.com/index_3.html http://www.marangonicanada.com/fr/index_fr.htm Gilbert BT7 From bj7ah at acanac.net Wed Mar 31 15:47:12 2010 From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 18:47:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Try This site http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/BMC_fasteners.pdf Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Guy R Day" Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 11:48 AM To: "Alan Seigrist" ; "Healey" ; "John Harper" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter > Alan, > There is a BMC Fastener Decode booklet, part number, AKD2239 which is a 12 > page PDF. It only covers UNC, washers and UNF but I can forward a copy of > that if you wish. I can't recall where I downloaded it from, sorry. > > Guy R Day > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alan Seigrist" > Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 3:16 PM > Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter > > >> All - >> >> Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me >> what >> type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts >> and >> screws. >> >> The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the >> early >> numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. >> >> Many thanks, >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '59 Jag Mk IX >> '64 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah at acanac.net From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Wed Mar 31 16:07:14 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 23:07:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Disc Brakes and vintage racing rules In-Reply-To: <728cb.104f9fc1.38e510b6@aol.com> References: <728cb.104f9fc1.38e510b6@aol.com> Message-ID: I am not aware of any of the vintage racing organizations that require 100-6's to use drum brakes or run the small (2639 cc) engine. To my knowledge they all run disc brakes and have 3000 motors. And I have seen plenty of 100-6s set up this way. I think it is because they are identical. That is also why mamy vintage organizations will not allow the bigger motors in the bugeye Sprites. It is because they do not look the same - which means they are significantly different. People know that Sprites came with a 948 cc motor and they should not be able to stay up with later Sprites. No one can tell the difference between a 100-6 and a 3000 (of course we can). Richard _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_1 From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 31 16:49:12 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 07:49:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Marangoni tire In-Reply-To: <879AAEFE-06DB-468D-831D-5E5112F3E16C@cgocable.ca> References: <879AAEFE-06DB-468D-831D-5E5112F3E16C@cgocable.ca> Message-ID: Gilbert - A 175 65 profile will be far too small a diameter for an Austin Healey. You need a 65 profile in at least a 205 to work on your car. Alan On 4/1/10, gilbert gauthier wrote: > Anyone have knowledge or experience with this trade mark Marangoni > tire out there ? > > Marangoni 175 65/15 79.90$ cnd$ > > http://www.guideautoweb.com/articles/73/ > > http://www.marangoni.com/index_3.html > > > http://www.marangonicanada.com/fr/index_fr.htm > > > > > Gilbert > BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 31 17:10:54 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 08:10:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Seems to me you could put some computer 12 volt ventilation fans near the top of the wheel well and that could do a lot to remove hot air as it rises under the bonnet. On 4/1/10, Ray Carbone wrote: > Hi Perry, > Although I do like the look of the fender vents, the idea of implementing a > few out and downward facing louvers on the top of the wheel well to improve > air flow and reduce high pressure within the engine compartment would be an > effort I can handle. The thought is that this modification would capitalize > on the low pressure created within the well to extract heat while reducing > engine compartment pressure and, therefore, will improve air flow and > cooling > system efficiency. This alteration is relatively inconspicuous and easily > reversible (with a panel) making the effort and cost of this project > substantially lower than implementing fender vents. The concept seems well > proven with many vintage racing examples, however, I am a little concerned > that none were Healeys and was hopping that the list could provide some > experiences. > > Thanks for your response and all the best, > Ray > 64BJ8P1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 31 18:14:16 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 18:14:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thumbscrew threads Message-ID: <4BB3F368.4070708@comcast.net> Anyone know the size and thread of the studs on the back of Smiths speedos, tachs, etc. (the ones that hold the clamps to the backside of the panel)? We have--ahem--'aftermarket' screws intalled by a PO on our BN2's speedo, and I'd like to get back closer to original; I have new thumbscrews but they don't fit any screws in my inventory (looks like size 8 but the thread is not 32tpi--24tpi maybe?). TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 31 18:32:36 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 21:32:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 Message-ID: <000601cad13b$3611eae0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I am trying to get the windshield installed permanently. Whats the secret in getting the windshield to come down enough to get the holes in the pillars to line up so I can put the screws in. Previously I refit the unit as a dry run with the old seal and no dash pad yet. It fit fine. Now I have about 3/4 of an inch of the new seal going under the pillars,and then the pillar rubber pads and a new dash pad. 1-First off, is the seal suppose to go under the pillar a little? 2-Does it need to be thinned down a little bit so it lays flat. 3-How many elephants does it take to sit on the windshield to push it down? The dash seems to be a bit of a hindrance too but theres not much I can alter there. Any help would be appreciated, Mark From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 31 19:27:22 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 10:27:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thumbscrew threads In-Reply-To: <4BB3F368.4070708@comcast.net> References: <4BB3F368.4070708@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - All that stuff on smith's guages is BA threading. Thinking about the studs on the back of the gauges, my guess is the thumbscrews are probably 3 or 4 BA size. the thumbscrews can be bought from a multitude of suppliers for small money: http://www.sussexclassiccar.co.uk/shop_factory_hazel/index1.html Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 9:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Anyone know the size and thread of the studs on the back of Smiths speedos, > tachs, etc. (the ones that hold the clamps to the backside of the panel)? > We have--ahem--'aftermarket' screws intalled by a PO on our BN2's speedo, > and I'd like to get back closer to original; I have new thumbscrews but they > don't fit any screws in my inventory (looks like size 8 but the thread is > not 32tpi--24tpi maybe?). > > TIA, > Bob From ynotink at msn.com Wed Mar 31 20:33:59 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 03:33:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: <4BAEE5A5.9060402@comcast.net> References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net>, , <4BAEE5A5.9060402@comcast.net> Message-ID: I wonder if the flex sections of the down pipes could be too stiff, maybe rusted tight. That might cause relative motion between the flanges. Bill Lawrence > Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:14:13 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: healey.nut at gmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... > > Good thought, Alan. I haven't torqued them too hard--afraid of > stripping the studs. Good idea to use a torque wrench--hadn't thought > of that. > > bs > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: > > Bob - > > > > I don't think the nuts are supposed to be torqued all that tight, no > > more than 30 ft-lbs. Really just enough to compress lightly and get a > > good seal. Could this be your problem? > > > > Alan > > > > > > > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com