From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Tue Jun  1 04:58:51 2010
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 11:58:51 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Streamlined Healeys - 100 Six...Another little piece
 of the jigsaw
In-Reply-To: <42125.51867.qm@web52405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <42125.51867.qm@web52405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C04E7EB.1090806@summaventures.com>

see also here:

http://www.racingsportscars.com/photo/Sebring-1956-03-24.html

Peter

Jackson Krall wrote:
> In regards to 3804, for those that archive such info, and this may have slipped by, there is a nice cover photo by John Christy on the May 1957 issue of Sports Cars Illustrated showing the red #31 sandwiched between a Cooper and a Ferrari. The photo being from the 1956 race, there is no futher info on Austin Healey or the 1957 Sebring race in the issue. The red #31 100S wears a narrow blue? stripe whithin a broader white racing stripe. The drivers helmet has a dark stripe and he appears to be wearing a sportcoat.
> Best 
> JK
> 
> 
> 
>       
> 

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				

From ggilliam at usol.com  Tue Jun  1 06:54:51 2010
From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 08:54:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Back fire
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikkOls7RhXRVfsAuZl5UK5LnpUJ2meYeP7DLVGt@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL116-W59BC19D0B8B8E399FF341EB8EF0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikkOls7RhXRVfsAuZl5UK5LnpUJ2meYeP7DLVGt@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a672e08241fd0512d9fe9cde5978492f@usol.com>

Stainless steel flex sections are available at many  car parts shops, such
as autozone...not a big job to cut out and replace...

 Gordy

On Tue, 1 Jun 2010 09:32:05 +0800, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
wrote:
> Leonard -
> 
> This is a pretty standard repair for a muffler shop.  I'd say find
another
> muffler shop in your area.  Fixing the flex line should not cost a whole
> heck of alot.
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 9:18 AM, Leonard Berkowitz
> <drberkowitz at hotmail.com>wrote:
> 
>> I believe my Healey is back firing due to a leak in the flex pipe that
>> runs
>> to
>> the muffler.  Does any one have a cure, other then replacing the pipe.
>> Replacement of the pipes is a tuff job since nothing ever lines up or
>> fits
>> correctly. My body guy doesn't seem too happy about welding the leak,
and
>> I
>> don't feel real confident in letting my local muffler shop try the
>> repair,
>> especially after watching them repair the exhaust on my Jeep
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ggilliam at usol.com

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Jun  1 09:25:11 2010
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 08:25:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] speaking of smoke machines
In-Reply-To: <004801cafeea$89918c20$9cb4a460$@ca>
References: <004801cafeea$89918c20$9cb4a460$@ca>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420871@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I used a party type smoke machine over the weekend to find a BJ8 intake
manifold leak and it passed. I had hoped it would fail so I could be
sure my diagnosis was correct. I plugged the smoke machine into the
brake booster port on the intake manifold. Plenty of smoke came out the
carbs so I sealed them up with tape and that was the last smoke I saw. I
tried putting the smoke up the tail pipes, but I guess it wasn't
powerful to make it to the engine. It looks like I will take change the
manifold gasket anyway. I think the commercial automotive smoke machines
put out 3 PSI or so.
I have never had success with the WD40 spray technique. How could anyone
do it on the bottom sides of the manifold branches with tube headers and
stuff in the way?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8




"""-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 9:51 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny: Lucas Electric

Have you inadvertently let the smoke out of the wires on your classic
British car? This, then, is the solution to your problem!

Here is presented for your perusal one Lucas Replacement Wiring Harness
Smoke kit, P/N 530433, along with the very rare Churchill Tool 18G548BS
adapter tube and metering valve. These kits were supplied
surreptitiously to
Lucas factory technicians as a trouble-shooting and repair aid for the
Eys"

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 09:32:31 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 08:32:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Badge Bar
In-Reply-To: <25AD42DC9E47452F8172FBBB60477E08@youro0kwkw9jwc>
References: <25AD42DC9E47452F8172FBBB60477E08@youro0kwkw9jwc>
Message-ID: <91288FE3-C873-43D3-A6BE-9CB185F0DE33@sbcglobal.net>

Gary, yes  we do have one in stock.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 25, 2010, at 11:54 AM, moomau_verizon_mail wrote:

> Hey,
>
>
>
> I am looking for a chrome badge bar for a BJ8.  I looked at Moss  
> online and
> the catalog stated "NA".  Can anyone out there tell me who sells them?
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> Gary Moomau, 67 BJ8
>
> Yucaipa, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 09:55:29 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 08:55:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] handbrake parts needed
In-Reply-To: <9655F02625004C4897797809832BF575@ACM030>
References: <9655F02625004C4897797809832BF575@ACM030>
Message-ID: <F1E5772C-D30C-4B02-B47D-2DE91478EEE1@sbcglobal.net>

Alan, we do have some used handbrake parts as well as a new complete  
assy available.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 28, 2010, at 6:20 PM, allen c miller jr wrote:

> I have unfortunately misplaced the non-chrome parts to a 100-4  
> handbrake
> (ratchet, pawl and mounting bracket) and wonder if anyone would  
> like to offer
> a set for sale.
>
>
> thanks.
>
>
> allen miller
>
> bn2/m
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 10:04:29 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 09:04:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Battery Cover
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin-E7hel00TBcKNi0-iz5zVJNaLrGvAyxAO12zR@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTin-E7hel00TBcKNi0-iz5zVJNaLrGvAyxAO12zR@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A8BB03AB-79C3-46B9-8884-929A33132477@sbcglobal.net>

Mike, Yes we do have this available new.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 29, 2010, at 11:20 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote:

> I am looking for a battery cover door for my BN2 project.  I  
> thought I had
> one, but a visit to the body shop to see the progress of my BN2  
> reveals
> there never was one according to the painter.  Anyone got one.   
> Willing to
> pay a fair price.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 10:09:14 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 09:09:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heavy exhaust in car
In-Reply-To: <000a01caffa4$e41a9ff0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000a01caffa4$e41a9ff0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <DF6B40E7-BEBD-41E6-A442-DECEA9DB6134@sbcglobal.net>

Take a close look at the length of your tail pipes. If they do not  
come a little past  the back edge or the bumper the aero dynamics of  
the car will cause the exhaust fumes to come forwareds into the  
cockpit .

We usually have to put a chrome extension on the ends of the  
replacement systems to prevent this problem.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 29, 2010, at 8:04 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

> I have been to the  local muffler shop for a check up/ tighten up  
> on the
> entire exhaust ,clamps
> and joints.   I even stood there while they did the work.
>
> There was one area that appeared to have some carbon build up so he  
> tightened
> things up with sealer and clamps.   The exhaust is new by the way.
>
> I still have some fumes coming into the cockpit,  however I do have  
> the trany
> tunnel off in order to make the final OD adjustments.    The  
> adjustments have
> been completed, thanks to the list and now I can button up the tunnel.
>
> Is it pretty fair to say that the  fumes are most likely being  
> sucked in to
> the cockpit from the rear
> tail pipe under the car and up through the trany opening?
>
> I guess I am just looking for some affirmation from anyone that has  
> been down
> this route.
>
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 10:45:34 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 09:45:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Lines - 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <864555.39829.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <864555.39829.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <17F21F87-50F9-4DB8-AD8F-72FBBD9E9BF5@sbcglobal.net>

Greg, We have stainless steel pre bent brake and fuel lines for all  
the Healey's




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 31, 2010, at 6:51 AM, Greg Mandas wrote:

> In the One Thing Leads to Another department:
>
> While working in and around the fuel pump replacing the chassis  
> harness, I felt a cool sensation on my wrist, much like the wind  
> blowing through your hair on ride with the top down, which I'm NOT  
> going to be doing for awhile because I now have a pinhole leak in  
> the fuel line.
>
> Fortunately, the leak is in the hard line between the pump and the  
> engine.
>
> While on the phone with Moss I decided to order the tank-to-pump  
> line and replace them both but it's NA.
>
> Any suggestions on replacing the front line? It looks like I can  
> easily remove the original intact and use it as a template.
>
> The original line is held in with P-clips, not the "Clip - Pipe to  
> Chassis" in the catalogue. I'm assuming it's simply a model  
> difference and correct on my car.
>
> Most importantly, what do we do if the tank-to-pump line fails?  
> It's just as old and fragile.
>
> It looks like for the second year in a row I'll be driving the  
> Blazer to Brits by the Sea next week.
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
> 97 Chevy Blazer LT
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From jpayne at ThorCon.net  Tue Jun  1 11:15:53 2010
From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 10:15:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Triumph TR6 Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
References: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
Message-ID: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>

A good friend and club member has a 1976 Triumph TR6 that he has replaced the
M. Cylinder on.  It is one of the dual cct. Types.

He and I have bench bled it, installed it on the car and tried to bleed it but
consistently get air from both sides of the front.  The rears are fine.

This problem has manifested itself on 2 replacement master cylinders now.  I'm
at a total loss.  The system is obviously taking in air somewhere, but isn't
leaking.

Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084



________________________________
"This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the
use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to
solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor
Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and
any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability
for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email."

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Jun  1 12:23:38 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 11:23:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Triumph TR6 Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil5waVxIdg67tBFKmeiup8Exxea7Es-JnkNFmJA@mail.gmail.com>

does it have  a power booster? look there.  if not try pressure bleeding the
system

On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Jonas Payne <jpayne at thorcon.net> wrote:

> A good friend and club member has a 1976 Triumph TR6 that he has replaced
> the
> M. Cylinder on.  It is one of the dual cct. Types.
>
> He and I have bench bled it, installed it on the car and tried to bleed it
> but
> consistently get air from both sides of the front.  The rears are fine.
>
> This problem has manifested itself on 2 replacement master cylinders now.
>  I'm
> at a total loss.  The system is obviously taking in air somewhere, but
> isn't
> leaking.
>
> Jonas Payne
> Director of Preconstruction
> Thor Construction
> PH:    (702) 269-2007
> Fax:   (702) 269-7095
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for
> the
> use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
> received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
> and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender
> to
> solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email
> are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of
> Thor
> Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email
> and
> any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no
> liability
> for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jun  1 13:00:08 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 21:00:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Triumph TR6 Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <4C0558B8.3030708@chello.nl>

Use an Eezybleed to bleed the system.
Have the callipers been redone? If so check if the left and right 
calliper have not been mistakenly confused, and fitted up side down. It 
will be neigh impossible to bleed the system in that case. I am not sure 
if that is possible on a TR but one some cars it can be done. Do not 
ask.......
If the callipers have not been redone, overhaul them (and fit them the 
right way), they may suck in air when pressure is released and seal 
properly when pressure is applied.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jonas Payne wrote:
> A good friend and club member has a 1976 Triumph TR6 that he has replaced the
> M. Cylinder on.  It is one of the dual cct. Types.
>
> He and I have bench bled it, installed it on the car and tried to bleed it but
> consistently get air from both sides of the front.  The rears are fine.
>
> This problem has manifested itself on 2 replacement master cylinders now.  I'm
> at a total loss.  The system is obviously taking in air somewhere, but isn't
> leaking.
>
> Jonas Payne

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Tue Jun  1 14:18:08 2010
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 06:18:08 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Triumph TR6 Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <B617661B6E934CD0A4F0022D4B83CC0F@PeterPC>

G'day Jonas

I've had the same problem on my BN1 (drum brakes) Seems it's possible for 
air to be drawn in past the master cylinder end seal when you release the 
pedal having closed the bleed nipple (don't know if TR6 is same design) The 
way I eventually got a pedal was (a) make sure bleed tube is full of fluid 
and goes upwards from nipple (b) instead of closing the bleed nipple after 
down stroke, wait until bubbles have risen far enough up the tube not to get 
sucked back in, then release pedal. This way fluid gets drawn back into 
cylinder/caliper rather than air elsewhere in the system. Air can also get 
sucked in via the threads on the bleed nipple, so I use Ezybleed sealant on 
the standard nipple threads.I've also found that the old "snake oil" remedy 
of jamming the pedal down hard overnight works!

CHeers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jonas Payne" <jpayne at ThorCon.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 3:15 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Triumph TR6 Master Cylinder


>A good friend and club member has a 1976 Triumph TR6 that he has replaced 
>the
> M. Cylinder on.  It is one of the dual cct. Types.
>
> He and I have bench bled it, installed it on the car and tried to bleed it 
> but
> consistently get air from both sides of the front.  The rears are fine.
>
> This problem has manifested itself on 2 replacement master cylinders now. 
> I'm
> at a total loss.  The system is obviously taking in air somewhere, but 
> isn't
> leaking.
>
> Jonas Payne
> Director of Preconstruction
> Thor Construction
> PH:    (702) 269-2007
> Fax:   (702) 269-7095
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for 
> the
> use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
> received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 
> 269-2007
> and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender 
> to
> solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this 
> email
> are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of 
> Thor
> Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email 
> and
> any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no 
> liability
> for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Jun  1 14:34:58 2010
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 13:34:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Triumph TR6 Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342087F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

If you only replaced the master cylinders, I have no comments. If you
also replaced a component with a Moss Chinese item, you might have to
wrap the bleed screws with tape or use Speed Bleeders which have the
threads filled with goop to prevent unwanted air entry.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Jun  1 15:04:13 2010
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 14:04:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering allignment
In-Reply-To: <8CCCE60F67AA35A-EB4-19C41@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>
References: <004401caffec$5ed51cb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<8CCCE60F67AA35A-EB4-19C41@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420881@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I made a custom side rod with adjustable ends so I could try to achieve
perfection in getting the tight spot in the center. It probably wasn't
worth the bother now that new worms without the tight spot are
available. Perhaps wear has continued on the peg or something and the
steering is irritating again after less than 10000 miles. I am going to
put in a new worm next winter.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 18:45:04 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 20:45:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Top Fitment
Message-ID: <001b01cb01ec$d7d98ea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Who would have thunk that I would still have so many questions this far along
in my restoration.  My
wife won't listen to me so you guys get the vote.

Anyone try or have an EZ On convertible top?   I bought this on Ebay years ago
and I swear it must have
shrunk in the box that I never opened till now.   Wow!   I don't see how any
amount of sunlight
or heat is going to get this top to fit.   Sure wish they hadn't installed the
Tenex fasteners at the
factory.  Three of them miss by about an eighth of an inch,( including red
face tugging. )
  And the metal circles for the turn buttons by the doors aren' t even on the
top.  I will need to source these.
The material at the front of the top barely touches the windscreen.   Can't
see how that will ever connect to the wood bow.   Even if this thing was ever
stretched to fit I can only imagine trying to put it on in the middle of a
down pour.
Thats a hernia waiting to happen.   Anyone want to buy some Tenex fasteners?

The box says it fits a 57-62 Austin Healey 100-6 and 3000 4 seater.   Weren't
the top patterns
different through these years to accomodate the different frames that were
used?

Could this be the one-size fits all miracle top that has been evading all of
us for all these years?
Oh my God,  I had know idea it was on  my shelf all these years.

Fellow listers, I will regret this some day I'm sure, but since I rarely use a
top on my cars I feel
obligated to open up the bids to my List buddies first.  Soooo who will offer
the first bid for this
elusive rare, non fitting piece of shit, oops, I mean wonderful top.

I  was actually going to put this on myself but I see a ton of frustration in
this job.   Any sense in trying to
have a professional put this on knowing that it will be an on going head ache
when ever I actually
need to put the thing up myself.   Maybe a fresh Robbins top would be a better
investment and less head and body aches down the road.

Anyone have an E-Z On Auto Top?   Thats quite an oxy-moron.

Mark

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Tue Jun  1 19:33:47 2010
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 21:33:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Top Fitment
In-Reply-To: <001b01cb01ec$d7d98ea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <001b01cb01ec$d7d98ea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4C05B4FB.2070408@verizon.net>

    I just purchased a Bugeye tonneau cover through 'topsonline.com'. It 
took a bit longer than I figured for delivery - about 5 weeks.

    Turns out it is a Robbins product, in their box with all their 
paperwork. The piece was shipped from 'Vic's Upholstery' with an address 
very near to Robbins'.

    The instructions clearly said that the turn fastener anchors were 
'installed', I assumed that would be to make the location of the other 
fasteners a bit easier. WRONG.

    After numerous communications with Doug Robbins, including faxing 
the (Robbins) instruction sheet back to him for review, I find out that;

             None of the 'fasteners' are 'installed' (contrary to their 
own instructions),
             All Robbins tops and tonneaus are to be installed by a 
recommended 'professional'.

    It took about two weeks of various e-mails and faxes to get to that 
point.

    In addition, the slots for the rear hold-downs (the metal bar sewn 
into the pocket) are cut wrong and Doug's response was "Well, sometimes 
things have to be modified to fit a particular car".
   
    Vic's response (he was copied on all the communications) was 
"________________".

    The tonneau is very well made and, after consulting with my 'local 
professional' I'm sure it will fit and look good. Of course at that 
'extra expense' not figured into the original project.

    Be careful out there,

                                                                         
   CB

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  1 20:18:56 2010
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 02:18:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering allignment
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420881@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <004401caffec$5ed51cb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>,
	<8CCCE60F67AA35A-EB4-19C41@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>,
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420881@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <COL106-W20A2CCD7060934B8C3C3D1C0D00@phx.gbl>

I sent a missive about this issue a week ago but it didn't show up on the
list. Maybe I hit the wrong button.
What is all this talk about adjusting rods and things to change the tight spot
in the steering box?  The tight spot is always in the center of the steering
box. If your steering wheel is not centered when you are in the tight spot, it
is because your steering wheel is not centered - not the box!  You fix this by
lifting your steering wheel off the splined shaft (when the wheels are
pointing straight ahead - in that "tight spot") and rotating it into a
position such that it is now "centered" - now slide it back down onto the
spines and button things back up.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon




> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 14:04:13 -0700
> From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com
> To: warthodson at aol.com; lapierrem at sbcglobal.net; healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering allignment
>
> I made a custom side rod with adjustable ends so I could try to achieve
> perfection in getting the tight spot in the center. It probably wasn't
> worth the bother now that new worms without the tight spot are
> available. Perhaps wear has continued on the peg or something and the
> steering is irritating again after less than 10000 miles. I am going to
> put in a new worm next winter.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 20:16:10 2010
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 19:16:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Triumph TR6 Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.
	thor.com>
References: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445A5D6E16D@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100601191358.01fceed0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

If the lines are steel you could have a cracked line, which is very 
difficult to see, where it enters the cylinder. With the line fitting 
tightened shoot some air into the top of the fitting where the line 
enters. If you see brake fluid check the line for a crack.

John

At 10:15 AM 6/1/2010 -0700, Jonas Payne wrote:
>He and I have bench bled it, installed it on the car and tried to bleed it but
>consistently get air from both sides of the front.  The rears are fine.

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun  1 21:28:44 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 22:28:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] New Top Fitment
In-Reply-To: <158A75AB-D308-4872-AE86-208BA4EDB234@snet.net>
References: <001b01cb01ec$d7d98ea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<4C05B4FB.2070408@verizon.net>
	<158A75AB-D308-4872-AE86-208BA4EDB234@snet.net>
Message-ID: <4C05CFEC.3040104@justbrits.com>

<< ...and Doug always has an excuse. >>  [from Robbins]

Yep.

And lest you folks forget, I deal with a LOT of different
top and applications.

And a lot longer than most of youse<G> !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]

From medlabinc at msn.com  Tue Jun  1 22:44:06 2010
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 21:44:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Steering allignment
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W20A2CCD7060934B8C3C3D1C0D00@phx.gbl>
References: <004401caffec$5ed51cb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>, ,
	<8CCCE60F67AA35A-EB4-19C41@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>, ,
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420881@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>,
	<COL106-W20A2CCD7060934B8C3C3D1C0D00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL109-W9ED80FFEDF91CA17AC5A5A2D00@phx.gbl>

It isn't the position of the steering wheel on the splined steering shaft that
determines whether the peg rides in the tight spot or not - actually.



Dick Matson /Bj8



_____________________________

> From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com
> To: kendall.freese at aerojet.com; warthodson at aol.com; lapierrem at sbcglobal.net;
healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 02:18:56 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering allignment
>
> I sent a missive about this issue a week ago but it didn't show up on the
> list. Maybe I hit the wrong button.
> What is all this talk about adjusting rods and things to change the tight
spot
> in the steering box? The tight spot is always in the center of the steering
> box. If your steering wheel is not centered when you are in the tight spot,
it
> is because your steering wheel is not centered - not the box! You fix this
by
> lifting your steering wheel off the splined shaft (when the wheels are
> pointing straight ahead - in that "tight spot") and rotating it into a
> position such that it is now "centered" - now slide it back down onto the
> spines and button things back up.
>
> Richard Mayor
> BN7L-466 Vintage Racer
> Portland, Oregon
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 14:04:13 -0700
> > From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com
> > To: warthodson at aol.com; lapierrem at sbcglobal.net; healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering allignment
> >
> > I made a custom side rod with adjustable ends so I could try to achieve
> > perfection in getting the tight spot in the center. It probably wasn't
> > worth the bother now that new worms without the tight spot are
> > available. Perhaps wear has continued on the peg or something and the
> > steering is irritating again after less than 10000 miles. I am going to
> > put in a new worm next winter.
> > Ken Freese
> > 65 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
> Hotmail.
>
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
> 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4
> _______________________________________________

From medlabinc at msn.com  Wed Jun  2 10:35:32 2010
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 09:35:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342088D@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <004401caffec$5ed51cb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>,
	<8CCCE60F67AA35A-EB4-19C41@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>,
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420881@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<COL109-W596650A623CE2660EA3D74A2EF0@phx.gbl>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420889@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<COL109-DS222092239C69547E21DBE4A2D00@phx.gbl>,
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342088D@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <COL109-W56B5BF923D43FD4652DAA7A2D00@phx.gbl>

Thanks for the note Ken.



Several years ago I could feel some roughness when turning the steering wheel.



Turned out the top inner worm gear race was pitted.  The inner bearing races
being machined as part of the worm gear I had to replace the steering shaft.
Found a servicable original.  Installed it and new bearings.  The rest of the
box and the peg was fine.



Like you I fiddled with getting the peg on the tight spot with tracking
straight ahead.  I could not get it exact on.  If I remember it is because the
output steering box shaft is 'keyed' at four locations - meaning the steering
arm can go on the output shaft in one of only 4 positions - if I remember.
Anyway the keyed locations were not close enough to get the peg and tight spot
and straight-ahead tracking all in the same spot.  Shimming to set the tight
spot was not an option as there are shims in the steering box on only one end
of the worm.  I didn't want to bend the steering arm to set it.  Could shim
the whole box out from the frame I guess.



It's nice to have the peg, the tight spot and tracking together so that free
play loosens as steering is turned either way from straight ahead.



The box and all will come out thru the grill opening.  As ever,



Dick Matson / Bj8











----- Original Message -----

From: Freese, Ken

To: Dick Matson

Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 4:11 PM

Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering alignment


Welch probably has one, but I think it is Ahead 4 Healeys.



From: Dick Matson [mailto:medlabinc at msn.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:44 PM
To: Freese, Ken
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering allignment

Hi Ken.

The new worm gear you're talking about is from - Welch ?

Dick matson / Bj8
________________________________

> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 14:04:13 -0700
> From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com
> To: warthodson at aol.com; lapierrem at sbcglobal.net; healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering allignment
>
> I made a custom side rod with adjustable ends so I could try to achieve
> perfection in getting the tight spot in the center. It probably wasn't
> worth the bother now that new worms without the tight spot are
> available. Perhaps wear has continued on the peg or something and the
> steering is irritating again after less than 10000 miles. I am going to
> put in a new worm next winter.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8

From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Jun  2 14:04:23 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 16:04:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
Message-ID: <8CCD0A5EDCDC701-21E0-88D@webmail-m043.sysops.aol.com>

Assuming for the moment that the front suspension components are all in good
condition, meaning the king pin bushings, wheel bearing shimming/adjustment,
tie rod ends & steering worm & peg are all in very good condition, then there
are two adjustments (that I can think of) that can affect "free play" at the
steering wheel. They are shimming of the bearings that support the worm gear &
adjusting of the peg in the worm.



The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering the toe-in
(unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These two are
directly related.
This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result in the tight
spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.

Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the steering
wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column. Doing this
will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative to the
straight ahead position of the steering column.

Gary Hodson


The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering the toe-in
(unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These two are
directly related.
This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result in the tight
spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.

Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the steering
wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column. Doing this
will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative to the
straight ahead position of the steering column.

Gary Hodson

From medlabinc at msn.com  Wed Jun  2 15:08:17 2010
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 14:08:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Steering alignment
Message-ID: <COL109-DS1163FBE8EFAE5CE8713DF6A2D00@phx.gbl>

Exactly Gary.

Ken (Freeze) tried an adjustable tie rod on I believe the left side control
rod.  All wearable items being in good shape that seems a likely good way to
get toe in adjustments you want/need and to get the tight spot/peg right too.

Dick Matson / Bj8

----- Original Message -----
From: warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com>
To: medlabinc at msn.com<mailto:medlabinc at msn.com> ;
kendall.freese at aerojet.com<mailto:kendall.freese at aerojet.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering alignment


Assuming for the moment that the front suspension components are all in good
condition, meaning the king pin bushings, wheel bearing shimming/adjustment,
tie rod ends & steering worm & peg are all in very good condition, then there
are two adjustments (that I can think of) that can affect "free play" at the
steering wheel. They are shimming of the bearings that support the worm gear &
adjusting of the peg in the worm.


The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering the toe-in
(unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These two are
directly related.
This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result in the tight
spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.

Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the steering
wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column. Doing this
will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative to the
straight ahead position of the steering column.

Gary Hodson

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun  2 15:21:32 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 16:21:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] New Top Fitment
In-Reply-To: <158A75AB-D308-4872-AE86-208BA4EDB234@snet.net>
References: <001b01cb01ec$d7d98ea0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<4C05B4FB.2070408@verizon.net>
	<158A75AB-D308-4872-AE86-208BA4EDB234@snet.net>
Message-ID: <4C06CB5C.10801@justbrits.com>

<< Robbins makes some great product. With a tiny bit of effort, they could
make some outstanding product. >>

Agreed, Jay.

I have wondered for the past few years if they just had
"grown" TOO much [and, what 30 years ago?] TOO fast ??

Just heard from a buddy that is finishing a 442 ragtop and
he has exact same probs as the Spridget & Big Healey
worlds have experienced.  And I know [just remembered]
a chap that was finishing a '63 Impala ragtop a couple years
ago [YES, I was and AM jealous<G>] which same problem of
"overall length" - he said it was about 8 - 9 inches SHORT
[AIN'T gonna stretch one THAT far<G>].

At least "we" know it's not just the LBC world.

I might add that I have NEVER heard of anybody that called
them and received 'reasonable' satisfaction or "relief".

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun  2 18:01:51 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 17:01:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <8CCD0A5EDCDC701-21E0-88D@webmail-m043.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCD0A5EDCDC701-21E0-88D@webmail-m043.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <F532EE1D-119A-46B5-AD1B-3AD67F2CBE63@sbcglobal.net>

trying to get the tight spot in the straight ahead position is not  
going to happen. For some reason the tight spot is just to the left  
of straight ahead on all Healey's.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 2, 2010, at 1:04 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:

> Assuming for the moment that the front suspension components are  
> all in good
> condition, meaning the king pin bushings, wheel bearing shimming/ 
> adjustment,
> tie rod ends & steering worm & peg are all in very good condition,  
> then there
> are two adjustments (that I can think of) that can affect "free  
> play" at the
> steering wheel. They are shimming of the bearings that support the  
> worm gear &
> adjusting of the peg in the worm.
>
>
>
> The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering  
> the toe-in
> (unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These  
> two are
> directly related.
> This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result  
> in the tight
> spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.
>
> Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the  
> steering
> wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column.  
> Doing this
> will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative  
> to the
> straight ahead position of the steering column.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering  
> the toe-in
> (unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These  
> two are
> directly related.
> This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result  
> in the tight
> spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.
>
> Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the  
> steering
> wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column.  
> Doing this
> will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative  
> to the
> straight ahead position of the steering column.
>
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Jun  2 18:27:33 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 20:27:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <F532EE1D-119A-46B5-AD1B-3AD67F2CBE63@sbcglobal.net>
References: <8CCD0A5EDCDC701-21E0-88D@webmail-m043.sysops.aol.com>
	<F532EE1D-119A-46B5-AD1B-3AD67F2CBE63@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <8CCD0CAB158197C-F00-563A@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com>

Yes, I agree. I hope no one thought I was suggesting they adjust the toe-in
until the tight spot was straight ahead! Theoretically, this would be
possible, if you didn't care what amount of toe-in you ended up with.
Gary Hodson




-----Original Message-----
From: David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net


trying to get the tight spot in the straight ahead position is not going to
happen. For some reason the tight spot is just to the left of straight ahead
on all Healey's.


On Jun 2, 2010, at 1:04 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:



Assuming for the moment that the front suspension components are all in good
condition, meaning the king pin bushings, wheel bearing shimming/adjustment,
tie rod ends & steering worm & peg are all in very good condition, then there
are two adjustments (that I can think of) that can affect "free play" at the
steering wheel. They are shimming of the bearings that support the worm gear
&
adjusting of the peg in the worm.

The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering the toe-in
(unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These two are
directly related.
This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result in the
tight
spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.


Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the steering
wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column. Doing this
will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative to the
straight ahead position of the steering column.


Gary Hodson

From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net  Wed Jun  2 19:23:15 2010
From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (prittenhouse2 at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 20:23:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Badge Bar
Message-ID: <650284143.46326.1275528195111.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>

/0f26yA: Permission denied

From medlabinc at msn.com  Wed Jun  2 19:29:03 2010
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 18:29:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Steering alignment
Message-ID: <COL109-DS257697CF2578CAE717CB1BA2D10@phx.gbl>

Exactly Gary.

Ken (Freeze) tried an adjustable tie rod on I believe the left side control
rod.  All wearable items being in good shape that seems a likely good way to
get toe in adjustments you want/need and to get the tight spot/peg right too.

Dick Matson / Bj8

----- Original Message -----
From: warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering alignment


Assuming for the moment that the front suspension components are all in good
condition, meaning the king pin bushings, wheel bearing shimming/adjustment,
tie rod ends & steering worm & peg are all in very good condition, then there
are two adjustments (that I can think of) that can affect "free play" at the
steering wheel. They are shimming of the bearings that support the worm gear &
adjusting of the peg in the worm.


The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering the toe-in
(unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These two are
directly related.
This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result in the tight
spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.

Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the steering
wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column. Doing this
will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative to the
straight ahead position of the steering column.

Gary Hodson

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Wed Jun  2 20:00:53 2010
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 2010 22:00:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <8CCD0CAB158197C-F00-563A@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCD0A5EDCDC701-21E0-88D@webmail-m043.sysops.aol.com>
	<F532EE1D-119A-46B5-AD1B-3AD67F2CBE63@sbcglobal.net>
	<8CCD0CAB158197C-F00-563A@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C070CD5.5020604@htcnet.org>

I just replaced my steering worm with a DW version and peg and now no 
tight spot at all.  Steering is
much nicer and easier, since I also added those swivel pin roller bearings.

John
64 & 66 BJ8s

On 6/2/2010 8:27 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
> Yes, I agree. I hope no one thought I was suggesting they adjust the toe-in
> until the tight spot was straight ahead! Theoretically, this would be
> possible, if you didn't care what amount of toe-in you ended up with.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>
> trying to get the tight spot in the straight ahead position is not going to
> happen. For some reason the tight spot is just to the left of straight ahead
> on all Healey's.
>
>
> On Jun 2, 2010, at 1:04 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> Assuming for the moment that the front suspension components are all in good
> condition, meaning the king pin bushings, wheel bearing shimming/adjustment,
> tie rod ends&  steering worm&  peg are all in very good condition, then there
> are two adjustments (that I can think of) that can affect "free play" at the
> steering wheel. They are shimming of the bearings that support the worm gear
> &
> adjusting of the peg in the worm.
>
> The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering the toe-in
> (unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These two are
> directly related.
> This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result in the
> tight
> spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.
>
>
> Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the steering
> wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column. Doing this
> will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative to the
> straight ahead position of the steering column.
>
>
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  2 20:17:17 2010
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 19:17:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Steering alignment
Message-ID: <647076.36835.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I think we all agree the tight spot should be in the center of travel of the
steering box. This is where the clearance tolerances are at a minimum-least
amount of play in the steering box.
If all the suspension mounting point are symmetrical the front end geometry is
center to the car. the Austin Healey has only toe in & out adjustment and it
is equal. Center should not change.
I suggest you inspect for damage in the areas that your front suspension
attaches to at lower A arms, shock towers, bent frame, damaged front cross
member.
The mounting points must be symmetrical to maintain center point. We have
found this common problem in most of the  400+ Austin Healeys that we have
worked on.


Happy Healeying,   Marty 
 www.jule-enterprises.com

From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Jun  2 20:54:29 2010
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 02:54:29 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <8CCD0CAB158197C-F00-563A@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCD0A5EDCDC701-21E0-88D@webmail-m043.sysops.aol.com>,
	<F532EE1D-119A-46B5-AD1B-3AD67F2CBE63@sbcglobal.net>,
	<8CCD0CAB158197C-F00-563A@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W1001A94FF63A85B9C7C12A5D10@phx.gbl>

Actually I DON'T know that it would be possible. If the "tight spot" is at or
near center at any toe setting what would cause it to change while adjusting
toe? Turning the track rod to adjust the toe-in moves both front wheels
exactly the same amount in opposite directions because one one ball end is a
right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread. Turning the rod
shouldn't affect the position of the steering worm gear. If the tight spot (or
center of the worm) is not where it is supposed to be then the fault must be
in the other alignment factors, which are not adjustable on the Austin Healey
chassis (except by catastrophic means) or in the incorrect assembly of the
various steering rods and levers.
Bill Lawrence

> To: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 20:27:33 -0400
> From: warthodson at aol.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering alignment
>
> Yes, I agree. I hope no one thought I was suggesting they adjust the toe-in
> until the tight spot was straight ahead! Theoretically, this would be
> possible, if you didn't care what amount of toe-in you ended up with.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>
> trying to get the tight spot in the straight ahead position is not going to
> happen. For some reason the tight spot is just to the left of straight
ahead
> on all Healey's.
>
>
> On Jun 2, 2010, at 1:04 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> Assuming for the moment that the front suspension components are all in
good
> condition, meaning the king pin bushings, wheel bearing
shimming/adjustment,
> tie rod ends & steering worm & peg are all in very good condition, then
there
> are two adjustments (that I can think of) that can affect "free play" at
the
> steering wheel. They are shimming of the bearings that support the worm
gear
> &
> adjusting of the peg in the worm.
>
> The location of the tight spot is NOT adjustable without altering the
toe-in
> (unless you have modified the stock steering system). I.E. These two are
> directly related.
> This means that there is only ONE toe-in setting that will result in the
> tight
> spot being located exactly at the straight ahead position.
>
>
> Once the toe-in is set, the only way to adjust orientation of the steering
> wheel is to reposition it on the splines on the steering column. Doing this
> will of course NOT affect the location of the tight spot relative to the
> straight ahead position of the steering column.
>
>
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Thu Jun  3 01:31:50 2010
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 08:31:50 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W56B5BF923D43FD4652DAA7A2D00@phx.gbl>
References: <004401caffec$5ed51cb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<8CCCE60F67AA35A-EB4-19C41@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420881@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<COL109-W596650A623CE2660EA3D74A2EF0@phx.gbl>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420889@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<COL109-DS222092239C69547E21DBE4A2D00@phx.gbl>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342088D@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<COL109-W56B5BF923D43FD4652DAA7A2D00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <32bghdCmp1BMFw3n@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Dick

The ancestor to the 'big' Healey front suspension and steering was the 
A40 Devon. With little modification this was applied to our cars. It was 
beefed up from the BN2 on but still basically the same. Originally the 
A40 design included adjustable length steering side tubes. This allowed 
the high spot in the steering box to be set dead ahead.

Due presumably to a cost reduction exercise, the fixed length side tubes 
were introduced on the A40 and A70 in May 1953 (Austin Service Journal 
Volume 23 steering 13). Therefore all but perhaps the prototype 100 had 
fixed length side tubes and therefore we were 'doomed' to have this 
centring problem.

For very bad cases the old adjustable side tubes can still be 
occasionally found or new ones can be made up using shortened cross 
tubes with new ends.

Regards

>
>Like you I fiddled with getting the peg on the tight spot with tracking
>straight ahead.  I could not get it exact on.  If I remember it is because the
>output steering box shaft is 'keyed' at four locations - meaning the steering
>arm can go on the output shaft in one of only 4 positions - if I remember.
>Anyway the keyed locations were not close enough to get the peg and tight spot
>and straight-ahead tracking all in the same spot.  Shimming to set the tight
>spot was not an option as there are shims in the steering box on only one end
>of the worm.  I didn't want to bend the steering arm to set it.  Could shim
>the whole box out from the frame I guess.
>
>
>
>It's nice to have the peg, the tight spot and tracking together so that free
>play loosens as steering is turned either way from straight ahead.

-- 
John Harper

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Thu Jun  3 05:55:09 2010
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2010 13:55:09 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] correct duo color 100 BN2 - help needed
Message-ID: <08B25EC2488040CBB9D0867038785DCF@tm>

Hello,

Does anyone have a close-up picture of the way the two colors meet? I would
need a picture by the door edge and by the front chrome spear.
My chrome spear on the front fender is fairly high up - I wonder if the
cutout for the spear was same on all fenders...


Many thanks!

Tadek

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Jun  3 06:29:19 2010
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 22:29:19 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Why are there 2 national Healey clubs?
In-Reply-To: <4C04167F.6090903@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.16475.1275306326.914.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<4C04167F.6090903@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CFA13A031FF1472FB467171A1340C31B@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Kent

Two kinds of football???????? Bloody hell! There are at least 6. Soccer,
American football, Rugby Union, Rugby League, Australian Rules and Gaelic
Football. There are probably more.

My memory of the late 1960s and early 1970s was that the Pacific Centre was
formed as an offshoot of the UK AHC and generally serviced the US West
Coast. The AHC of America was not formed as a separate entity and catered
for owners more towards the middle and East Coast.

With today's ease of communication both clubs now cater for owners not only
across North America, but throughout the world.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kent McLean
Sent: Tuesday, 1 June 2010 6:05 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Why are there 2 national Healey clubs?

Kees wrote:
> This is the case with many car clubs, or any clubs. Why are there
> christians, jews and muslims? Basicly the same religion with the same god.

Why are there 2 kinds of football?  :)

Go Oranje!!!

(
For those who enjoy the first kind and know nothing of the 2nd, the World
Cup is 
this year. The Netherlands is favored to win Group E.
<http://articles.latimes.com/2010/may/22/sports/la-sp-cup-capsules-20100523>
<http://netherlands.worldcupblog.org/world-cup-2010/edgar-davids-oranje-can-
with-this-world-cup.html>

The US is in Group C and probably won't get past England.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2010_FIFA_World_Cup>
)

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jun  3 06:46:33 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2010 08:46:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W1001A94FF63A85B9C7C12A5D10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY144-W1001A94FF63A85B9C7C12A5D10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CCD131EE15D84A-1238-7113@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com>

Bill, Marty,
Assume for the moment that the tight spot is perfectly centered & both wheels
are toed-in exactly 1/8" each. Now, if we adjust (decrease) the toe-in by
turning the track rod (making it effectively longer) such that the resulting
toe-in is 1/16" at each wheel, the tight spot will no longer be perfectly
centered. Here is why: The track rod is connected to the steering lever on the
steering box which in turn is connected to the non-adjustable outer tie-rod,
which is connected to the wheel assembly. There is no way to change the length
of the track rod without affecting the position of the steering lever & thus
the position of the tight spot.
Gary


If the "tight spot" is at or near center at any toe setting what would cause
it to change while adjusting toe? Turning the track rod to adjust the toe-in
moves both front wheels exactly the same amount in opposite directions because
one one ball end is a right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread.
Turning the rod shouldn't affect the position of the steering worm gear.






-----Original Message-----
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com; David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Jun 2, 2010 9:54 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering alignment


Actually I DON'T know that it would be possible. If the "tight spot" is at or
near center at any toe setting what would cause it to change while adjusting
toe? Turning the track rod to adjust the toe-in moves both front wheels
exactly the same amount in opposite directions because one one ball end is a
right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread. Turning the rod
shouldn't affect the position of the steering worm gear. If the tight spot (or
center of the worm) is not where it is supposed to be then the fault must be
in the other alignment factors, which are not adjustable on the Austin Healey
chassis (except by catastrophic means) or in the incorrect assembly of the
various steering rods and levers.


Bill Lawrence

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jun  3 07:02:27 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 21:02:27 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Why are there 2 national Healey clubs?
In-Reply-To: <CFA13A031FF1472FB467171A1340C31B@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <mailman.16475.1275306326.914.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<4C04167F.6090903@comcast.net>
	<CFA13A031FF1472FB467171A1340C31B@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikGGhvxpHKU8rxCGcjmouNctLtw703gFvnu3Fke@mail.gmail.com>

Patrick -

you have to add Sepak takraw - one of the greatest football games played:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sepak_takraw

<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sepak_takraw>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yaTUjRiFSY&feature=related

<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yaTUjRiFSY&feature=related>Cheers!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 8:29 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Kent
>
> Two kinds of football???????? Bloody hell! There are at least 6. Soccer,
> American football, Rugby Union, Rugby League, Australian Rules and Gaelic
> Football. There are probably more.
>
> My memory of the late 1960s and early 1970s was that the Pacific Centre was
> formed as an offshoot of the UK AHC and generally serviced the US West
> Coast. The AHC of America was not formed as a separate entity and catered
> for owners more towards the middle and East Coast.
>
> With today's ease of communication both clubs now cater for owners not only
> across North America, but throughout the world.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia

From medlabinc at msn.com  Thu Jun  3 08:21:45 2010
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 07:21:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Steering alignment
Message-ID: <COL109-DS182712427C43242E48467AA2D10@phx.gbl>

That . . is interesting.

Your summary confirms for me what my experience has been - and if I'm reading
right the experience of others who have posted on the subject.  Thank you
John.

Dick Matson / Bj8



----- Original Message -----
From: John Harper<mailto:ah at jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: Dick Matson<mailto:medlabinc at msn.com>
Cc: AustinHealey List<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering alignment



Dick

The ancestor to the 'big' Healey front suspension and steering was the
A40 Devon. With little modification this was applied to our cars. It was
beefed up from the BN2 on but still basically the same. Originally the
A40 design included adjustable length steering side tubes. This allowed
the high spot in the steering box to be set dead ahead.

Due presumably to a cost reduction exercise, the fixed length side tubes
were introduced on the A40 and A70 in May 1953 (Austin Service Journal
Volume 23 steering 13). Therefore all but perhaps the prototype 100 had
fixed length side tubes and therefore we were 'doomed' to have this
centring problem.

For very bad cases the old adjustable side tubes can still be
occasionally found or new ones can be made up using shortened cross
tubes with new ends.

Regards

>
>Like you I fiddled with getting the peg on the tight spot with tracking
>straight ahead.  I could not get it exact on.

Dick Matson / Bj8

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Jun  3 09:56:47 2010
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 08:56:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <32bghdCmp1BMFw3n@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <COL109-W56B5BF923D43FD4652DAA7A2D00@phx.gbl>
	<32bghdCmp1BMFw3n@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342089F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

John,
Thanks for that information. I would like to see the workshop manual
section for alignment when a A40/A70 has adjustable side rods. I wonder
if it addressed the tight spot.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Jun  3 14:50:58 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 16:50:58 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 371
Message-ID: <1747e.4d3337d3.39396fb2@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/3/10 11:34:17 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> My memory of the late 1960s and early 1970s was that the Pacific Centre 
> was
> formed as an offshoot of the UK AHC and generally serviced the US West
> Coast. The AHC of America was not formed as a separate entity and catered
> for owners more towards the middle and East Coast.
> 

If I ever find the right venue, I think it would be interesting to write 
the factual history of the clubs. As an academically trained historian, I'm 
never surprised at how different the recollections of history can be, and how 
those recollections can shape what we believe.

First point: The Pacific Centre was founded as a local club, but within 
three months had discovered that there was a U.K. umbrella organization under 
Bic Healey, and had sought and received sanctioning as the Austin-Healey 
Club, Pacific Centre. 
Fairly soon thereafter, contact was made with Bill Wood in the Northeast, 
with the idea of a possible second centre. Though that didn't come to 
fruition, the two groups did organize an East Coast (New England, really) and West 
Coast meet fairly soon thereafter, inviting Donald as their guest at both 
meets. The East Coast connection didn't thrive, but the west coast group did 
well, expanding its Healey Highlights newsletter and very soon found itself 
with members all over the country, just interested in receiving the 
newsletter, so from the start it's been pretty national in membership, though the 
majority of events were concentrated on the West Coast.

>From what i've heard third-hand, at roughly the same time, a group in 
Virginia started an Austin-Healey club which, not knowing about the other effort, 
declared itself the Austin-Healey Club of America, and soon after an 
Illinois chapter of that club was started. When the Virginia club disappeared, the 
Illinois chapter picked up the baton and ran with it. You can see the 
connection by comparing the Illinois chapter's badge with the consequent AHCA 
badge.

Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Jun  3 15:00:44 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 17:00:44 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Clubs
Message-ID: <17fc2.4271736f.393971fc@aol.com>

Just to correct another misapprehension -- at least as I recollect the 
events, having been one of the parties at the table. The attempt at merger of 
the two clubs began when Bonnie Ayer and I came up with a joint proposal at 
Healey International in Breckinridge in 2002. It died when it became clear 
that the "old guard" in both clubs, folks who had founded the original two 
clubs, made clear that they would oppose any effort at merger, except in the 
unlikely case that the other club was willing to cede its name, magazine, and 
governing structure and simply turn over its mailing list. 
Most of this resistance came not only from a desire of each group to 
protect what it had created, but also because of a Hatfield-McCoy feud that had 
smoldered in the ten years between Snowmass and Breckinridge, during which 
time the AHCPC leaders accused AHCA of "stealing" the seed money left over from 
Snowmass and then squandering it on an ill-advised "joint" meet in Oklahoma 
in 1997. In the meantime, AHCA leaders were accusing the president of AHCPC 
of "stealing" the AHCA mailing list to do a solicitation of membership.
in order to make sure that the merger never happened, both Bonnie and I 
were pushed out of office the following year. As I remember the facts, the 
merger didn't occur because of equal resistance on the part of old-line leaders 
in both clubs. 
Of course, to get the whole story , a real historian would also want to 
interview Bonnie Ayer, Hank Leach, Paul Schwartz, Walt Blanc, and Chuck and 
Edie Anderson, all of whom sat with me around the table at a AHCA delegates 
meeting in the fall of 2002 to discuss the structure of a possible merger.

Cheers
Gary Anderson

From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  3 15:34:32 2010
From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 14:34:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] correct duo color 100 BN2 - help needed
In-Reply-To: <08B25EC2488040CBB9D0867038785DCF@tm>
Message-ID: <20645.27683.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 
We find different fenders on the 100's with different ridges. The front wheel
arch is larger on some fenders. The two colors meet at the ridge in the fender
and the door. The read fender on the later 100's have a ridge that follows
from the front fender thru the door. The early 100's do not have this ridge,
just follow the line from the door backward around the curve to the bead
between the parts.
 
The classic problem is how the colors meet at the front fender arch. For this,
there is a picture on the concours CD. There is one picture from a middle 50's
auto show with a factory car showing an arched curve meeting the front fender.
 
It took me many hours settling how to paint the line on my car. Take your time
and study the subject.
 
Best Regards,
 
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100_M

--- On Thu, 6/3/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote:


From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl>
Subject: [Healeys] correct duo color 100 BN2 - help needed
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, June 3, 2010, 4:55 AM


Hello,

Does anyone have a close-up picture of the way the two colors meet? I would
need a picture by the door edge and by the front chrome spear.
My chrome spear on the front fender is fairly high up - I wonder if the
cutout for the spear was same on all fenders...


Many thanks!

Tadek
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From acmiller at mhcable.com  Thu Jun  3 17:08:49 2010
From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 19:08:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] collapsable steering column
Message-ID: <EB1949555C0C4FAB931B4BD37ED85889@ACM030>

 Thanks to John Sims for posting my drawings of for the collapsable steering
column I installed.

      Here is a parts listof Borgeson materials needed to complete a box
conversion.

      450036 36" Extended Length  $78.92   1 $78.92
      700010 Firewall Flange Bearing, 3/4" ID  $29.00   1 $29.00
      314900 3/4DD X 3/4 Smooth Bore  $20.52   1 $20.52
      315200 1DD X 1-1/4 Smooth Bore  $28.13   1 $28.13
      Subtotal: $156.57
      Shipping cost: $17.26 (UPS ground to new york from ct)

      Total: $173.83

      If anyone is interested I can put them in touch with Don Breslaus who
fabricated the prototype at very reasonable cost and whose work is impeccable
( he has 30
      years' sports racing support experience) and is incredibly proficient

      I can be reached at Allen100m at Yahoo.com
      518-851-2262

      Allen Miller BN2/M

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Jun  3 17:26:05 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 19:26:05 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
Message-ID: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>

Amazing how time flies. David Nock corrected my notes on the dates.

Snowmass was in 1982. The first discussions between Bonnie Ayre and me, and 
the subsequent merger discussions took place at Breckinridge and then at 
the AHCA delegates meeting in 1992. The money-losing AHCA "international" meet 
took place in northeast Oklahoma in 1987. 
David remembers another conversation about mergers at Park City in 1997 
which again went nowhere. Interestingly, Tracy Drummond recalls being asked 
pointedly, when he was proposed for president of AHCUSA a few years ago whether 
he favored or would be against a merger. The right answer to that question 
clearly was that he should be against the idea.
So, nothing much has changed in, what, 18 years?

As many people have noted, had it not been for Reid Trummel benchmarking 
the Austin-Healey Magazine against Chatter, and me benchmarking Austin-Healey 
Magazine against Reid's Healey Marque, the two club magazines might not have 
maintained the level of excellence they have achieved over the years.

On the other hand, with good controls, a single magazine reaching 5,000 
members, and a national structure supporting regional clubs and perhaps two 
"national" meets each year, might very well have been a good thing for the 
Healey hobby.

Cheers
gary

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Jun  3 17:56:48 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2010 19:56:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] collapsable steering column
In-Reply-To: <EB1949555C0C4FAB931B4BD37ED85889@ACM030>
References: <EB1949555C0C4FAB931B4BD37ED85889@ACM030>
Message-ID: <019b01cb0378$6e5d53c0$4b17fb40$@net>

I've added this informati to the PDF on my site (without the telephone
number)

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of allen c miller jr
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 7:09 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] collapsable steering column

 Thanks to John Sims for posting my drawings of for the collapsable steering
column I installed.

      Here is a parts listof Borgeson materials needed to complete a box
conversion.

      450036 36" Extended Length  $78.92   1 $78.92
      700010 Firewall Flange Bearing, 3/4" ID  $29.00   1 $29.00
      314900 3/4DD X 3/4 Smooth Bore  $20.52   1 $20.52
      315200 1DD X 1-1/4 Smooth Bore  $28.13   1 $28.13
      Subtotal: $156.57
      Shipping cost: $17.26 (UPS ground to new york from ct)

      Total: $173.83

      If anyone is interested I can put them in touch with Don Breslaus who
fabricated the prototype at very reasonable cost and whose work is
impeccable
( he has 30
      years' sports racing support experience) and is incredibly proficient

      I can be reached at Allen100m at Yahoo.com
      518-851-2262

      Allen Miller BN2/M

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Jun  3 19:11:42 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 21:11:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>
References: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <57DB9CED7D63489A865FD0903F3487DB@LIFEBOOK>

Yes,

it is amazing how time flies and memories lose their accuracy. A few more 
clarifications and corrections if I may......

The 1987 AHCA Conclave was a joint venture alright but it was joint with the 
Austin Healey Sports and Touring club at Harrisburg Pa. The Oklahoma 
Conclave was at Shangri-La Resort in 1988, blistering hot as I recall.

Turning back the clock to August 1976, that was the summer that the Pacific 
Centre and the Northeast Region brought Donald Healey over as special guest, 
and hosted somewhat of an East Coast and West Coast meet, the N.E. being one 
weekend, the P.C. being the following weekend. However, in between, Donald 
flew to O'Hare and was guest of honour of the AHCA, (at that moment still 
basically a Midwest Regional club). Donald was a guest over night at Walt 
and Jeanette Blanck's home, with a special dinner in Donald's honour on the 
Tuesday evening. The next day, guests from a number of brand new AHCA 
regional chapters sat at a formation meeting in Blanck's home and mapped out 
the Regional Chapter with Delegate representation concept, and the whole 
thing literally took off from there.
This is not third party, because I was there representing the 3 week old 
Southern Ontario chapter of the AHCA.

Rich Chrysler

From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Jun  3 19:34:04 2010
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 01:34:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <8CCD131EE15D84A-1238-7113@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com>
References: <BAY144-W1001A94FF63A85B9C7C12A5D10@phx.gbl>,
	<8CCD131EE15D84A-1238-7113@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W1028FEC716D03F65418E59A5D20@phx.gbl>

The point I'm trying to make is that the steering arms and outer tie rods are
symmetrical on both sides of the car and the movement of the steering arm ends
will be mirrored, opposite but identical. Therefore the position of the worm
gear with relation to the peg, and thus the tight spot, should not be affected
by this adjustment. In your example, since both wheels will be moved an equal
amount (1/32") to adjust the toe by 1/16" it should not affect the steering
wheel alignment or the tight spot. If such changes result from adjusting toe
then you have other problems.
Bill Lawrence

To: ynotink at msn.com; healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering alignment
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 08:46:33 -0400
From: warthodson at aol.com
CC: healeys at autox.team.net






Bill, Marty,


Assume for the moment that the tight spot is perfectly centered & both wheels
are toed-in exactly 1/8" each. Now, if we adjust (decrease) the toe-in by
turning the track rod (making it effectively longer) such that the resulting
toe-in is 1/16" at each wheel, the tight spot will no longer be perfectly
centered. Here is why: The track rod is connected to the steering lever on the
steering box which in turn is connected to the non-adjustable outer tie-rod,
which is connected to the wheel assembly. There is no way to change the length
of the track rod without affecting the position of the steering lever & thus
the position of the tight spot.


Gary






If the "tight spot" is at or near center at any toe setting what would cause
it to change while adjusting toe? Turning the track rod to adjust the toe-in
moves both front wheels exactly the same amount in opposite directions because
one one ball end is a right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread.
Turning the rod shouldn't affect the position of the steering worm gear.













-----Original Message-----

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>

To: warthodson at aol.com; David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>

Cc: healeys at autox.team.net

Sent: Wed, Jun 2, 2010 9:54 pm

Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering alignment







Actually I DON'T know that it would be possible. If the "tight spot" is at or
near center at any toe setting what would cause it to change while adjusting
toe? Turning the track rod to adjust the toe-in moves both front wheels
exactly the same amount in opposite directions because one one ball end is a
right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread. Turning the rod
shouldn't affect the position of the steering worm gear. If the tight spot (or
center of the worm) is not where it is supposed to be then the fault must be
in the other alignment factors, which are not adjustable on the Austin Healey
chassis (except by catastrophic means) or in the incorrect assembly of the
various steering rods and levers.






Bill Lawrence

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Thu Jun  3 19:35:51 2010
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 21:35:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
References: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>
	<57DB9CED7D63489A865FD0903F3487DB@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <40EDB05E71E7449F8977A4BB016A3196@your4dacd0ea75>

Very good Rich - for someone that's not  "an academically trained historian" 
;^)

Dallas Congleton


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: <Editorgary at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs


> Yes,
>
> it is amazing how time flies and memories lose their accuracy. A few more 
> clarifications and corrections if I may......
>
> The 1987 AHCA Conclave was a joint venture alright but it was joint with 
> the Austin Healey Sports and Touring club at Harrisburg Pa. The Oklahoma 
> Conclave was at Shangri-La Resort in 1988, blistering hot as I recall.
>
> Turning back the clock to August 1976, that was the summer that the 
> Pacific Centre and the Northeast Region brought Donald Healey over as 
> special guest, and hosted somewhat of an East Coast and West Coast meet, 
> the N.E. being one weekend, the P.C. being the following weekend. However, 
> in between, Donald flew to O'Hare and was guest of honour of the AHCA, (at 
> that moment still basically a Midwest Regional club). Donald was a guest 
> over night at Walt and Jeanette Blanck's home, with a special dinner in 
> Donald's honour on the Tuesday evening. The next day, guests from a number 
> of brand new AHCA regional chapters sat at a formation meeting in Blanck's 
> home and mapped out the Regional Chapter with Delegate representation 
> concept, and the whole thing literally took off from there.
> This is not third party, because I was there representing the 3 week old 
> Southern Ontario chapter of the AHCA.
>
> Rich Chrysler

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jun  3 20:12:28 2010
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 22:12:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <57DB9CED7D63489A865FD0903F3487DB@LIFEBOOK>
References: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>
	<57DB9CED7D63489A865FD0903F3487DB@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <001901cb038b$62212d30$26638790$@rr.com>

A few years ago someone bought a BJ8 that came with a driver's handbook
autographed by DMH in 1976.  I was able to track down the owner of the car
at that time, and we learned that Donald had signed the handbook while
sitting in Walt Blanck's backyard during that organizational meeting.  The
previous owner had a photo of himself with DMH in the backyard at the time
of the signing.  Kinda neat to find that out if you're the owner of the car.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 9:12 PM
To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs

Yes,

it is amazing how time flies and memories lose their accuracy. A few more 
clarifications and corrections if I may......

The 1987 AHCA Conclave was a joint venture alright but it was joint with the

Austin Healey Sports and Touring club at Harrisburg Pa. The Oklahoma 
Conclave was at Shangri-La Resort in 1988, blistering hot as I recall.

Turning back the clock to August 1976, that was the summer that the Pacific 
Centre and the Northeast Region brought Donald Healey over as special guest,

and hosted somewhat of an East Coast and West Coast meet, the N.E. being one

weekend, the P.C. being the following weekend. However, in between, Donald 
flew to O'Hare and was guest of honour of the AHCA, (at that moment still 
basically a Midwest Regional club). Donald was a guest over night at Walt 
and Jeanette Blanck's home, with a special dinner in Donald's honour on the 
Tuesday evening. The next day, guests from a number of brand new AHCA 
regional chapters sat at a formation meeting in Blanck's home and mapped out

the Regional Chapter with Delegate representation concept, and the whole 
thing literally took off from there.
This is not third party, because I was there representing the 3 week old 
Southern Ontario chapter of the AHCA.

Rich Chrysler

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Thu Jun  3 21:01:47 2010
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 23:01:47 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
Message-ID: <66e9.2c22f786.3939c69b@aol.com>

For those of you who have a Conclave 1993 (Louisville) mugs note that it  
says "The last AHCA Conclave" on it. Merger was such a sure  
thing...............
 
Jim  Werner
Louisville, KY

From jtrifari at comcast.net  Thu Jun  3 22:15:05 2010
From: jtrifari at comcast.net (John Trifari)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 21:15:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <17fc2.4271736f.393971fc@aol.com>
References: <17fc2.4271736f.393971fc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00f601cb039c$834c2c60$89e48520$@net>

Gary--the 50th anny (OpenRoads--Tahoe) was in 2002.  The Breckinridge meet
and the abortive attempt to merge the clubs was in 1992. This is what
happens when you turn 35.  John Trifari--Golden Gate AHC

  -- at least as I recollect the 
events, having been one of the parties at the table. The attempt at merger
of 
the two clubs began when Bonnie Ayer and I came up with a joint proposal at 
Healey International in Breckinridge in 2002. It died when it became clear 
that the "old guard" in both clubs, folks who had founded the original two 
clubs, made clear that they would oppose any effort at merger, except in the

unlikely case that the other club was willing to cede its name, magazine,
and 
governing structure and simply turn over its mailing list. 
Most of this resistance came not only from a desire of each group to 
protect what it had created, but also because of a Hatfield-McCoy feud that
had 
smoldered in the ten years between Snowmass and Breckinridge, during which 
time the AHCPC leaders accused AHCA of "stealing" the seed money left over
from 
Snowmass and then squandering it on an ill-advised "joint" meet in Oklahoma 
in 1997. In the meantime, AHCA leaders were accusing the president of AHCPC 
of "stealing" the AHCA mailing list to do a solicitation of membership.
in order to make sure that the merger never happened, both Bonnie and I 
were pushed out of office the following year. As I remember the facts, the 
merger didn't occur because of equal resistance on the part of old-line
leaders 
in both clubs. 
Of course, to get the whole story , a real historian would also want to 
interview Bonnie Ayer, Hank Leach, Paul Schwartz, Walt Blanc, and Chuck and 
Edie Anderson, all of whom sat with me around the table at a AHCA delegates 
meeting in the fall of 2002 to discuss the structure of a possible merger.

Cheers
Gary Anderson
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtrifari at comcast.net

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Thu Jun  3 23:06:49 2010
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2010 22:06:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <17fc2.4271736f.393971fc@aol.com>
References: <17fc2.4271736f.393971fc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C0889E9.9020300@pacbell.net>

Gee!  What was my one word?  EGO's?

Member of AHC,PC in 1972.  Now only, for my own reasons which will not 
be discussed here, a Charter Member of our local club, Austin-Healey 
Association (Inc.) of Southern California.

Why not just "Let sleeping dogs lie." and follow your own path for 
affiliations, including the A-HS&TC?

Bill Barnett
'53 Red Car  (which will be at Rendezvous in Eugene, OR)

On 6/3/2010 02:00 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
> Just to correct another misapprehension -- at least as I recollect the
> events, having been one of the parties at the table. The attempt at merger of
> the two clubs began when Bonnie Ayer and I came up with a joint proposal at
> Healey International in Breckinridge in 2002. It died when it became clear
> that the "old guard" in both clubs, folks who had founded the original two
> clubs, made clear that they would oppose any effort at merger, except in the
> unlikely case that the other club was willing to cede its name, magazine, and
> governing structure and simply turn over its mailing list.
> Most of this resistance came not only from a desire of each group to
> protect what it had created, but also because of a Hatfield-McCoy feud that had
> smoldered in the ten years between Snowmass and Breckinridge, during which
> time the AHCPC leaders accused AHCA of "stealing" the seed money left over from
> Snowmass and then squandering it on an ill-advised "joint" meet in Oklahoma
> in 1997. In the meantime, AHCA leaders were accusing the president of AHCPC
> of "stealing" the AHCA mailing list to do a solicitation of membership.
> in order to make sure that the merger never happened, both Bonnie and I
> were pushed out of office the following year. As I remember the facts, the
> merger didn't occur because of equal resistance on the part of old-line leaders
> in both clubs.
> Of course, to get the whole story , a real historian would also want to
> interview Bonnie Ayer, Hank Leach, Paul Schwartz, Walt Blanc, and Chuck and
> Edie Anderson, all of whom sat with me around the table at a AHCA delegates
> meeting in the fall of 2002 to discuss the structure of a possible merger.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Jun  3 23:46:07 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 01:46:07 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Clubs
Message-ID: <be98d.293d5fbe.3939ed1f@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/3/10 9:15:23 PM, jtrifari at comcast.net writes:


> Gary--the 50th anny (OpenRoads--Tahoe) was in 2002.  The Breckinridge
> meet
> and the abortive attempt to merge the clubs was in 1992. This is what
> happens when you turn 35.  John Trifari--Golden Gate AHC
>
>   -- at least as I recollect the
>

As noted, everyone's completely right -- move everything back exactly one
decade.
Gary

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri Jun  4 00:03:13 2010
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 23:03:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Manifold drains
Message-ID: <453094.49919.qm@web111413.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

List   I'm still working on those carbs.  I need a source for the drain
fittings on the bottom of the intake manifolds.  It has a 1/8" tube
compression fitting on one side and what looks to be a 3/8"-26 thread on the
other, where it screws into the manifold.  Is that a "British straight pipe"
size?  If so I could modify a US 1/4" tapered pipe thread fitting with a die
of the correct thread.  Any ideas guys??RegardsRay Juncal

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Fri Jun  4 02:28:32 2010
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 09:28:32 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342089F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <COL109-W56B5BF923D43FD4652DAA7A2D00@phx.gbl>
	<32bghdCmp1BMFw3n@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342089F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <IqzOG8BwkLCMFwoi@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Ken

I cannot find anything in A40/A70 workshop manuals but there is 
something in Austin Service Journal Volume 16, December 1947. Here 
Austin was going to great lengths to introduce and explain this new A40 
'wishbone' front suspension. Up until then Austin dealers were only used 
to beam axles and cart springs.

When it comes to adjusting side tubes it does not relate to a tight 
spot. However what it does describe is how by adjusting the side tubes 
lengths it is possible to make sure that maximum lock in both directions 
is limited at the swivel axle and not by coming to a limit of travel 
within the steering box itself.

Presumably if the steering box did not reach its own 'stops' and was 
therefore central the tight spot would occur when the road wheels were 
straight ahead.

Regards

>Thanks for that information. I would like to see the workshop manual
>section for alignment when a A40/A70 has adjustable side rods. I wonder
>if it addressed the tight spot.
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
>

-- 
John Harper

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Fri Jun  4 05:05:39 2010
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 04:05:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys]  Healey Clubs
Message-ID: <139611.20942.qm@web112512.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 
Gary,
I seem to recall events as you have outlined plus a lot more. I believe I have
an Pacific Newsletter that explains it all, as seen from a point of view from
their President of the Club at the time.  Although some of my brain cells have
departed or misfiled, the Pacific Center Prez. had just cause for his
comments. I even visited with one of their Club members when I had a business
trip in San Francisco and got more stuff but not worth mentioning.
Patrick Yoas
 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Clubs

Just to correct another misapprehension -- at least as I recollect the
events, having been one of the parties at the table. The attempt at merger of
the two clubs began when Bonnie Ayer and I came up with a joint proposal at
Healey International in Breckinridge in 2002. It died when it became clear
that the "old guard" in both clubs, folks who had founded the original two
clubs, made clear that they would oppose any effort at merger, except in the
unlikely case that the other club was willing to cede its name, magazine, and
governing structure and simply turn over its mailing list.
Most of this resistance came not only from a desire of each group to
protect what it had created, but also because of a Hatfield-McCoy feud that
had
smoldered in the ten years between Snowmass and Breckinridge, during which
time the AHCPC leaders accused AHCA of "stealing" the seed money left over
from
Snowmass and then squandering it on an ill-advised "joint" meet in Oklahoma
in 1997. In the meantime, AHCA leaders were accusing the president of AHCPC
of "stealing" the AHCA mailing list to do a solicitation of membership.
in order to make sure that the merger never happened, both Bonnie and I
were pushed out of office the following year. As I remember the facts, the
merger didn't occur because of equal resistance on the part of old-line
leaders
in both clubs.
Of course, to get the whole story , a real historian would also want to
interview Bonnie Ayer, Hank Leach, Paul Schwartz, Walt Blanc, and Chuck and
Edie Anderson, all of whom sat with me around the table at a AHCA delegates
meeting in the fall of 2002 to discuss the structure of a possible merger.

Cheers
Gary Anderson

From autofarm at cyg.net  Fri Jun  4 05:23:34 2010
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 07:23:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Manifold drains
References: <453094.49919.qm@web111413.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <84BC2D804F80444298170FC43B6AB7D5@OFFICE>

    Ray, we have them in stock.  With or without tubes.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ray Juncal" <healeyray at yahoo.com>
To: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 2:03 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Manifold drains


> List   I'm still working on those carbs.  I need a source for the drain
> fittings on the bottom of the intake manifolds.  It has a 1/8" tube
> compression fitting on one side and what looks to be a 3/8"-26 thread on 
> the
> other, where it screws into the manifold.  Is that a "British straight 
> pipe"
> size?  If so I could modify a US 1/4" tapered pipe thread fitting with a 
> die
> of the correct thread.  Any ideas guys??RegardsRay Juncal
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net 

From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net  Fri Jun  4 06:52:58 2010
From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (prittenhouse2 at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2010 07:52:58 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Test
Message-ID: <1545341348.942031.1275655978531.JavaMail.root@vms226.mailsrvcs.net>


From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Jun  4 07:16:39 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2010 09:16:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering alignment
In-Reply-To: <001701cb03a2$8e25fa70$aa71ef50$@ca>
References: <BAY144-W1001A94FF63A85B9C7C12A5D10@phx.gbl>
	<8CCD131EE15D84A-1238-7113@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com>
	<BAY144-W1028FEC716D03F65418E59A5D20@phx.gbl>
	<001701cb03a2$8e25fa70$aa71ef50$@ca>
Message-ID: <8CCD1FF4D2E5A23-133C-14FF@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com>

Paul,
Yes, that is exactly what I was trying to say. Thanks for jumping in &
clarifiying this subject.
Gary Hodson









-----Original Message-----
From: PG <britishcars at shaw.ca>
To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>; warthodson at aol.com; 'David Nock'
<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jun 3, 2010 11:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering alignment


Hi Bill,
I think you might be incorrect....I was on the same page as you earlier but
 think I was also wrong.
When you add toe in, it pulls both tie rods together, equal amounts......
Since the left hand (for North American models) tie rod is attached to the
teering lever, it must also pull the steering lever towards to centre of
he car.  When it pulls the steering lever in, it turns the steering wheel
lockwise.  So, now the pin is no longer in the same place on the worm as it
as before......Yes, the car will continue to go straight because both tires
ere pulled in equal amounts.  However, the tight spot will now be more
ounter clockwise to centre.
Furthermore, if you want your steering wheel to be centered, you'll have to
ake it off the spline and rotate it counterclockwise.
Took me a while to get my head around it.....
Paul

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Fri Jun  4 08:16:09 2010
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 16:16:09 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Painting coves to match main colour (plus a carb question)
Message-ID: <AANLkTimBJVy_U2aXhi7cfJKn8vlGDAO7c3MKuNCQAovo@mail.gmail.com>

1. I know this is a bit like a 'how long is a piece of string' question,
 but how feasible do you guys think it is to get a good paint match when
painting the coves to match the main colour of the car.

I've seen a very nice car I might buy. Its blue and white but this time
round I want an all blue car. (Don't ask why, it's all part of a cunning
plan I have). The car has an excellent paint job which was redone only 4
years ago. The owner has the paint code details etc, etc.

I was thinking (hoping) that as the swage line acts as a natural break that
this will help to conceal any slight colour difference that might occur. Has
anyone successfully attempted this. The car is garaged and doesn't live in a
sunny climate.

2. The car should have HD6 carbs but it has HS6 carbs instead. They are both
1 3/4 inch, but are there any significant advatages/differences between the
two types ?

thanks in advance

Derek
www.healeysix.net

From banjojohn at cox.net  Fri Jun  4 09:29:29 2010
From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 11:29:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber seal around wing windows
Message-ID: <20100604112929.1FSCW.569159.imail@eastrmwml29>

Hi listers:
Does anyone know an easy way to replace the rubber seal around the wing windows on a BJ8?  It looks to me like you have to tear half the door apart.
Thanks for any help
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun  4 09:39:21 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 08:39:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>
References: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <583A56BA-47D1-4DB4-954C-15B629C2EADA@sbcglobal.net>

One more time, this discussion rears its ugly head. And you can  
guarantee that the old guards will always come back and stomp all  
over a great idea. To me it makes no sence at all to have two  
National Clubs both putting out a great magazine. The clubs are going  
to run out of resorces for quality people to do all these high paying  
jobs that are necessary for the clubs to work.

We must start looking at the future and not the past. If you look at  
cars of the past there was always a Model A Ford at one of the local  
shows, when was the last time you say a 1920s car at one of the small  
local car shows. The interest in them is gone since those that grew  
up around them are to old to drive or gone. If we are not careful our  
beloved cars and clubs will go the same way.

My personal opinion for a long long time has been to be ONE National  
Club with ONE magazine. There could still be two national meets east  
and west, then we could all get together for a International Meet  
every 10 years. Just like what has happened for the last 30 years.

Thats another thing there was a great tradition set back in 82 having  
an International Meet celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Austin  
Healey, this was repeated in 92 in Breckenridge, 97 in Park City and  
then the 50th in Lake Tahoe.

  Now we are coming up on 2012 and what would have been the 60th and  
I do not know what has happened. Are the EGOs to big that no one can  
say lets just all get along and have a repeat of the past meets.  Was  
the 50th the end of a tradition? I hope not but it will be hard to  
revive it in 2022 for the 70th if all these EGOs of we must keep it  
the way it was don't allow some changes and some new sites set for  
the future.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

From jpayne at ThorCon.net  Fri Jun  4 10:19:25 2010
From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 09:19:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber seal around wing windows
In-Reply-To: <20100604112929.1FSCW.569159.imail@eastrmwml29>
References: <20100604112929.1FSCW.569159.imail@eastrmwml29>
Message-ID: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445B149968F@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>

Yes,

You need to take darn near the whole thing apart.

1)  Remove upper armrest
2)  Remove Chrome spear on outside of door
3)  Remove Window winder and door latch
4)  Remove inner door panel
5)  Remove screws holding on chromed frame
6)  Carefully remove door glass
7)  Remove Chrome Frame
8)  Remove vent glass from chrome frame
9)  Remove and replace rubber
10) Re-Assemble in reverse

Since you have to do all that, you might as well replace your window guides,
fuzzy strip and window rubber too.



Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of banjojohn at cox.net
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 8:29 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber seal around wing windows

Hi listers:
Does anyone know an easy way to replace the rubber seal around the wing
windows on a BJ8?  It looks to me like you have to tear half the door apart.
Thanks for any help
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net

"This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the
use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.  If you have
received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
and delete all copies from your system.  It is not the intent of the sender to
solicit any person or business.  Please note that any opinions in this email
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor
Construction, Incorporated.  Finally, the recipient should check this email
and any attachments for the presence of viruses.  The company accepts no
liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this
email."

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Jun  4 11:28:54 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2010 13:28:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <583A56BA-47D1-4DB4-954C-15B629C2EADA@sbcglobal.net>
References: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>
	<583A56BA-47D1-4DB4-954C-15B629C2EADA@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <01c301cb040b$686d0e40$39472ac0$@net>

As others have said, summed up in one word "ego" No one wants to relinquish
their fiefdom.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



  Now we are coming up on 2012 and what would have been the 60th and
I do not know what has happened. Are the EGOs to big that no one can
say lets just all get along and have a repeat of the past meets.  Was
the 50th the end of a tradition? I hope not but it will be hard to
revive it in 2022 for the 70th if all these EGOs of we must keep it
the way it was don't allow some changes and some new sites set for
the future.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jun  4 11:29:22 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 13:29:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Re Healey Clubs
Message-ID: <2A87DE0AF91B4705A12100E2C49B9F9E@LIFEBOOK>

> Steve,
>
> Yes, that was the Tuesday afternoon, before the dinner. A number of us 
> gathered in Blancks back yard to sit and chat on lawn chairs. Donald was a 
> bit in awe of all the fuss we were doing over him and his cars so many 
> years after production. We have a number of photos taken there as well, 
> and next morning around Blancks breakfast table.
> During the meeting, Donald found it all rather boring so joined the ladies 
> in the kitchen and was quite taken by their new microwave oven.
>
> Ah, the memories.
> Rich
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 10:12 PM
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
>
>> A few years ago someone bought a BJ8 that came with a driver's handbook
>> autographed by DMH in 1976.  I was able to track down the owner of the 
>> car
>> at that time, and we learned that Donald had signed the handbook while
>> sitting in Walt Blanck's backyard during that organizational meeting. 
>> The
>> previous owner had a photo of himself with DMH in the backyard at the 
>> time
>> of the signing.  Kinda neat to find that out if you're the owner of the 
>> car.
>>
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> Havelock, NC  USA

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Fri Jun  4 11:58:39 2010
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 12:58:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Painting coves to match main colour (plus a carb
 question)
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimBJVy_U2aXhi7cfJKn8vlGDAO7c3MKuNCQAovo@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimBJVy_U2aXhi7cfJKn8vlGDAO7c3MKuNCQAovo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimRG6oO2XBwtpRpibOnSVoOU-Ly3FU7To-orLPe@mail.gmail.com>

derek,
why not use a dark blue hand painted pin stripe as an accent line where the
blu and white formerly met.
i prefer the HD6.
cheers,
jerry

On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 9:16 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:

> 1. I know this is a bit like a 'how long is a piece of string' question,
>  but how feasible do you guys think it is to get a good paint match when
> painting the coves to match the main colour of the car.
>
> I've seen a very nice car I might buy. Its blue and white but this time
> round I want an all blue car. (Don't ask why, it's all part of a cunning
> plan I have). The car has an excellent paint job which was redone only 4
> years ago. The owner has the paint code details etc, etc.
>
> I was thinking (hoping) that as the swage line acts as a natural break that
> this will help to conceal any slight colour difference that might occur.
> Has
> anyone successfully attempted this. The car is garaged and doesn't live in
> a
> sunny climate.
>
> 2. The car should have HD6 carbs but it has HS6 carbs instead. They are
> both
> 1 3/4 inch, but are there any significant advatages/differences between the
> two types ?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Fri Jun  4 12:00:40 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 18:00:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber seal around wing windows
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445B149968F@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <20100604112929.1FSCW.569159.imail@eastrmwml29>,
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445B149968F@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w51BE30DF70E827D58F0F47B8D20@phx.gbl>

Assembly is reverse ...

So ... for assembly (#9) you then "replace and remove" the rubber?  :)
RD

> From: jpayne at ThorCon.net
> To: banjojohn at cox.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 09:19:25 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rubber seal around wing windows
>
> Yes,
>
> You need to take darn near the whole thing apart.
>
> 1)  Remove upper armrest
> 2)  Remove Chrome spear on outside of door
> 3)  Remove Window winder and door latch
> 4)  Remove inner door panel
> 5)  Remove screws holding on chromed frame
> 6)  Carefully remove door glass
> 7)  Remove Chrome Frame
> 8)  Remove vent glass from chrome frame
> 9)  Remove and replace rubber
> 10) Re-Assemble in reverse
>
> Since you have to do all that, you might as well replace your window
guides,
> fuzzy strip and window rubber too.
>
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> Director of Preconstruction
> Thor Construction
> PH:    (702) 269-2007
> Fax:   (702) 269-7095
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of banjojohn at cox.net
> Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 8:29 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Rubber seal around wing windows
>
> Hi listers:
> Does anyone know an easy way to replace the rubber seal around the wing
> windows on a BJ8?  It looks to me like you have to tear half the door
apart.
> Thanks for any help
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Fri Jun  4 12:27:56 2010
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 14:27:56 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
Message-ID: <b6a3b.2fc7d7ef.393a9fac@aol.com>

2012 will be in Louisville and is scheduled to be an International  Meet
 
Jim  Werner
Louisville, KY  

 
In a message dated 6/4/2010 12:39:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net writes:

Now we  are coming up on 2012 and what would have been the 60th and  
I do not  know what has  happened.

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Jun  4 12:30:31 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 14:30:31 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Paint matching
Message-ID: <7bff8.45b14ad9.393aa047@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/4/10 11:10:40 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 1. I know this is a bit like a 'how long is a piece of string' question,
> but how feasible do you guys think it is to get a good paint match when
> painting the coves to match the main colour of the car.
> 
I'm working on an article now to try to explain why it has become so 
difficult to get paint matches on older cars, having discussed this with the shop 
that fixed my fender -- a very high-end shop, btw.

The problem arises when paint materials change. We went from lacquer to 
something to oil-based with clear coat to water-based with clear coat. With 
each change, it was necessary to use the new materials in an attempt to match 
the old paints. That has become increasingly difficult, as fewer and fewer 
shades are made available. Right now, so they tell me, the number of "toners" 
used to adjust paint shades are many fewer in number with water-based paints 
as required in most states, than was the case just a few years ago with 
oil-based paints, hence it has become very difficult to match a lot of shades 
-- including, I'm told, Healey Blue.

So, if you want an exact match, it can only be done if the paint used 
previously is still available in the same materials -- check with a high-end shop 
to make sure. Otherwise, your only option is to paint the entire car with a 
similar shade in the new material.

Good Luck.
Gary

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun  4 12:50:21 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 11:50:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <b6a3b.2fc7d7ef.393a9fac@aol.com>
References: <b6a3b.2fc7d7ef.393a9fac@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1E06DDF3-5E62-4B15-B3D5-7EC5800C2543@sbcglobal.net>

If 2012 is set to be an International meet then why is AHCUSA having  
their Rendezvous in the Northwest.

In the past when there was an International Meet there wasn't a  
Conclave or a Rendezvous/ West Coast Meet

David Nock


On Jun 4, 2010, at 11:27 AM, Jwhlyadv at aol.com wrote:

> 2012 will be in Louisville and is scheduled to be an International  
> Meet
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
>
> In a message dated 6/4/2010 12:39:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net writes:
> Now we are coming up on 2012 and what would have been the 60th and
> I do not know what has happened.

From mkgoodman at att.net  Fri Jun  4 12:52:36 2010
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 14:52:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Manifold Drains
Message-ID: <063a01cb0417$19e889a0$4db99ce0$@net>

Dear Ray,

 

I found the correct fittings ( standard compression fitting for them) at a
HVAC Supplier and I believe the 1/8 Copper tubing also, but a good hobby
shop or well equipped Hardware Store should have a selection of Brass tubes
that would be 1/8".  I think I might have spare fittings and copper tubing
if you have trouble finding anything where you live.

 

Mark Goodman

 

66BJ8 35503

www.austinhealeyessence.com

 

 

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 23:03:13 -0700 (PDT)

From: Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com>

Subject: [Healeys] Manifold drains

To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>

Message-ID: <453094.49919.qm at web111413.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

 

List   I'm still working on those carbs.  I need a source for the drain

fittings on the bottom of the intake manifolds.  It has a 1/8" tube
compression fitting on one side and what looks to be a 3/8"-26 thread on the
other, where it screws into the manifold.  Is that a "British straight pipe"

size?  If so I could modify a US 1/4" tapered pipe thread fitting with a die
of the correct thread.  Any ideas guys??RegardsRay Juncal

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jun  4 13:10:04 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 15:10:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <583A56BA-47D1-4DB4-954C-15B629C2EADA@sbcglobal.net>
References: <214a6.3b2a5944.3939940d@aol.com>
	<583A56BA-47D1-4DB4-954C-15B629C2EADA@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <B40DC5D702C042DA91ED2FBF4B7F5174@LIFEBOOK>

I keep hearing about "the old guard" not allowing things to progress, or 
keeping new ideas out. These statements are as far as I'm aware, being made 
by people who were not at these meetings, but heard somebody else's 
opinions, etc.
I was an AHCA Delegate back in some of the meetings when unification was 
discussed at length. I can most certainly state that it wasn't up to "the 
old guard" and it wasn't a case of "egos" that was in control of these 
discussions...it was a  collection of Delegates, attending these meetings 
and bringing forward their home chapters wishes on these subjects that made 
the decisions.
Of course there were prominent people that voiced their opinions, perhaps 
swaying some delegates one way or the other, but the final decisions were 
made by the old democratic process called a vote.
Now, other than some pleasant reminiscences about Donald and his visits, can 
we please get back to Healeys?

Rich Chrysler 

From ruvino at ripnet.com  Fri Jun  4 13:16:17 2010
From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 15:16:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
Message-ID: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>

I seem to recall (wasn't interested at the time, that somebody had installed a
slid out cup holder under the parcel shelf.
Tried the archives but couldn't find it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Carl
BN-4(L)

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Jun  4 13:50:59 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 15:50:59 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] A history of the Austin-Healey Clubs in North America
Message-ID: <97531.65683b88.393ab323@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/4/10 11:49:09 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> > Yes, that was the Tuesday afternoon, before the dinner. A number of us
> > gathered in Blancks back yard to sit and chat on lawn chairs. Donald was 
> a
> > bit in awe of all the fuss we were doing over him and his cars so many
> > years after production. We have a number of photos taken there as well,
> > and next morning around Blancks breakfast table.
> > During the meeting, Donald found it all rather boring so joined the 
> ladies
> > in the kitchen and was quite taken by their new microwave oven.
> 

It would be interesting to read a history of the early years of AHCA, 
including the first efforts in Virginia and how the Illinois group became the 
AHCA we know today. We've got a summary history of Pacific Centre/AHCUSA in the 
AH Magazine on the inside front cover, originally written by Reid Trummel 
based on a review of past issues of Healey Highlights and Austin-Healey 
Magazine (several of us have every issue from the very start), which I updated 
when i took over the magazine three years ago. As noted there and in our 
recent editorial coverage, AHCUSA, ne Austin-Healey Club of San Jose and very 
rapidly renamed AHC Pacific Centre, was founded in 1970, making us 40 years old 
this year. We take pride in the fact that the newsletter/then magazine has 
been published without interruption for all of those 40 years.
Since there are also several independent clubs in this country to this day, 
including Austin-Healey Sports and Touring Club and (still?) several on the 
West Coast, a comprehensive history should include them as well.

Cheers
Gary

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Fri Jun  4 15:45:20 2010
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 17:45:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] At auction (incl. on line) tomorrow
Message-ID: <AANLkTil_PX4Jw8i6DbFS-embdSE3Mxi2_Fe9PoEzGEam@mail.gmail.com>

Austin A40 wagon.

http://tinyurl.com/38gxd2e

NFI, etc.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Fri Jun  4 16:07:25 2010
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 17:07:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimwRNoGkrMToWJgtJuKESmdVB34QOIenFbTE3Ir@mail.gmail.com>

carl,
try Healey Marque a year or so ago.  5 or 6 pages worth.
cheers,
jerry

On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 2:16 PM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino at ripnet.com> wrote:

> I seem to recall (wasn't interested at the time, that somebody had
> installed a
> slid out cup holder under the parcel shelf.
> Tried the archives but couldn't find it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Jun  4 17:32:09 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2010 18:32:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimwRNoGkrMToWJgtJuKESmdVB34QOIenFbTE3Ir@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
	<AANLkTimwRNoGkrMToWJgtJuKESmdVB34QOIenFbTE3Ir@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C098CF9.9030404@justbrits.com>

<< carl,
try Healey Marque a year or so ago. 5 or 6 pages worth.
cheers, jerry >>

I was thinking that it was one of Don. L.'s  products ??

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]

From healeydriver1 at gmail.com  Fri Jun  4 17:33:41 2010
From: healeydriver1 at gmail.com (R Phillips)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 19:33:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>

You are correct it was part of the enclosed Youtube video.  I have tried to
find the cup holder without success.  If anyone knows where to source it,
I'd be interested.

*http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-cocwJNQOGVA/1964_austin_healey_3000_mk_iii_0*


Ric

On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 3:16 PM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino at ripnet.com> wrote:

> I seem to recall (wasn't interested at the time, that somebody had
> installed a
> slid out cup holder under the parcel shelf.
> Tried the archives but couldn't find it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested ann
>
> *http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-cocwJNQOGVA/1964_austin_healey_3000_mk_iii_0*
>
> ual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydriver1 at gmail.com

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Fri Jun  4 18:21:50 2010
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 20:21:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber seal around wing windows
In-Reply-To: <20100604112929.1FSCW.569159.imail@eastrmwml29>
References: <20100604112929.1FSCW.569159.imail@eastrmwml29>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W261E504CF24E5A1A960BADC8D30@phx.gbl>

John,

I don't know if this will work but it's worth a try, there is no easy button
for this one.  You remove the door panel, chrome door top finisher first.
Then remove the two hex head bolts at the bottom of the vent window channel
and the 4 screws fixing the  vent window frame at the top of the door.  Here's
where it may not go--raise the window at the same time as you pull up on the
vent window frame.  This may allow you just enough access to remove the nut,
washers, spring, spacers, and bracket under the vent window frame to free up
the pivot assembly.  Then remove the two chrome screws on the upper pivot and
pull the vent window out.  Remove the old rubber and place in the new, then
reassemble.



If the window won't raise as the front channel goes up then you have to
release the regulator arm from the guide channel at the bottom of the door
glass frame and then pull up on the door glass and the vent window (front
channel) assembly simultaneously to remove both.  Then you can remove the
hardware mentioned above to get the rubber exchanged.  Pay attention to the
order of the washers and spring, and the spacer and their orientation with the
bracket.



Hope this helps,



George Haywood

'65 bj8



> Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 11:29:29 -0400
> From: banjojohn at cox.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Rubber seal around wing windows
>
> Hi listers:
> Does anyone know an easy way to replace the rubber seal around the wing
windows on a BJ8? It looks to me like you have to tear half the door apart.
> Thanks for any help
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
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From bj7ah at acanac.net  Fri Jun  4 18:58:52 2010
From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 20:58:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
	<AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B3DCF9DFB3CC4751952E673D45865948@robltPC>

Just type in auto cup holder on utube, there are many items there to search

                            Bob    Bj7

--------------------------------------------------
From: "R Phillips" <healeydriver1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 7:33 PM
To: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
Cc: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cup holder

> You are correct it was part of the enclosed Youtube video.  I have tried 
> to
> find the cup holder without success.  If anyone knows where to source it,
> I'd be interested.
>
> *http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-cocwJNQOGVA/1964_austin_healey_3000_mk_iii_0*
>
>
> Ric
>
> On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 3:16 PM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino at ripnet.com> wrote:
>
>> I seem to recall (wasn't interested at the time, that somebody had
>> installed a
>> slid out cup holder under the parcel shelf.
>> Tried the archives but couldn't find it.
>>
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>> Carl
>> BN-4(L)
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested ann
>>
>> *http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-cocwJNQOGVA/1964_austin_healey_3000_mk_iii_0*
>>
>> ual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydriver1 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah at acanac.net 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Jun  4 19:21:28 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2010 21:21:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
	<AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <021701cb044d$6cc89a30$4659ce90$@net>

Go to:

http://www.englishparts.com/products/CUP-HOLDER--COLLAPSIBLE-Required-AR/369
3/222-090.html

I have ordered other items from them. Good people.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of R Phillips
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 7:34 PM
To: Dr. C. Rubino
Cc: healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cup holder

You are correct it was part of the enclosed Youtube video.  I have tried to
find the cup holder without success.  If anyone knows where to source it,
I'd be interested.

*http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-cocwJNQOGVA/1964_austin_healey_3000_mk_iii
_0*


Ric

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Jun  4 19:37:52 2010
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 21:37:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
	<AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004101cb044f$b6f729d0$24e57d70$@rr.com>

A friend of mine got one for his BJ8 from eBay that came out VW Scirocco or
Jetta.
Do a Google search for possible sources.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of R Phillips
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 7:34 PM
To: Dr. C. Rubino
Cc: healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cup holder

You are correct it was part of the enclosed Youtube video.  I have tried to
find the cup holder without success.  If anyone knows where to source it,
I'd be interested.

*http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-cocwJNQOGVA/1964_austin_healey_3000_mk_iii
_0*


Ric

On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 3:16 PM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino at ripnet.com> wrote:

> I seem to recall (wasn't interested at the time, that somebody had
> installed a
> slid out cup holder under the parcel shelf.
> Tried the archives but couldn't find it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested ann
>
>
*http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-cocwJNQOGVA/1964_austin_healey_3000_mk_iii
_0*
>
> ual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydriver1 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2916 - Release Date: 06/04/10
14:25:00

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Jun  4 19:45:24 2010
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 01:45:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>,
	<AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT144-w1469DCEBFD09C4BD191A2DD5D30@phx.gbl>

The cup holder was on Roger's bj8, he tried several types before using a vw
part, as he writes here its in the october 2009 issue.



As his youtube video shows he added led lighting, courtesy lights, hidden sat
nav (behind speaker panel with volume control in ashtray):



scroll down on this page:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/681761/1/12V_out
let_how_and_where



cheers Andy

_________________________________________________________________
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/

From gstigen at msn.com  Fri Jun  4 19:52:44 2010
From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 18:52:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
Message-ID: <SNT114-W56E0CAFD14BB69E4CEE9BBA0D30@phx.gbl>

They are used in many VW's, Jetta MK4's,Passats& Audi A4&a6. Easy to remove,
mount &conceal. To can order them from VW-Audi or go to wrecking yards. cheers
Geno

> From: ruvino at ripnet.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 15:16:17 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
>
> I seem to recall (wasn't interested at the time, that somebody had installed
a
> slid out cup holder under the parcel shelf.
> Tried the archives but couldn't find it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com

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:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Sat Jun  5 00:14:40 2010
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 08:14:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] correct duo color 100 BN2 - help needed
In-Reply-To: <20645.27683.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <870CF65C07DE4DB48AA9D59C6CBE38E5@tm>

Jim,

 

Many thanks - I use this picture (slightly enlarged to scale) as a template
- very useful indeed!...

 

I hope it will turn out OK, the car should be ready in a week :-)

 

Many thanks, Tadek

 

  _____  

From: Jim LeBlanc [mailto:jim_leblanc at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 11:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Subject: Re: [Healeys] correct duo color 100 BN2 - help needed

 


 

We find different fenders on the 100's with different ridges. The front
wheel arch is larger on some fenders. The two colors meet at the ridge in
the fender and the door. The read fender on the later 100's have a ridge
that follows from the front fender thru the door. The early 100's do not
have this ridge, just follow the line from the door backward around the
curve to the bead between the parts. 

 

The classic problem is how the colors meet at the front fender arch. For
this, there is a picture on the concours CD. There is one picture from a
middle 50's auto show with a factory car showing an arched curve meeting the
front fender. 

 

It took me many hours settling how to paint the line on my car. Take your
time and study the subject. 

 

Best Regards, 

 

Jim LeBlanc

1956 100_M

--- On Thu, 6/3/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl>
wrote:


From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl>
Subject: [Healeys] correct duo color 100 BN2 - help needed
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, June 3, 2010, 4:55 AM

Hello,

Does anyone have a close-up picture of the way the two colors meet? I would
need a picture by the door edge and by the front chrome spear.
My chrome spear on the front fender is fairly high up - I wonder if the
cutout for the spear was same on all fenders...


Many thanks!

Tadek
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc530.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=Healeys at autox.team.net> 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Jun  5 06:30:59 2010
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 08:30:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Manifold Drains
In-Reply-To: <063a01cb0417$19e889a0$4db99ce0$@net>
References: <063a01cb0417$19e889a0$4db99ce0$@net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimehiKrF6Pg-Wa5oXVWizzU6RGGwFEQsgQcXhme@mail.gmail.com>

However to be "correct" the tubes should be made of steel and silver
soldered into special brass ferrules.


On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 2:52 PM, Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net> wrote:

> Dear Ray,
>
>
>
> I found the correct fittings ( standard compression fitting for them) at a
> HVAC Supplier and I believe the 1/8 Copper tubing also, but a good hobby
> shop or well equipped Hardware Store should have a selection of Brass tubes
> that would be 1/8".  I think I might have spare fittings and copper tubing
> if you have trouble finding anything where you live.
>
>
>
> Mark Goodman
>
>
>
> 66BJ8 35503
>
> www.austinhealeyessence.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 23:03:13 -0700 (PDT)
>
> From: Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com>
>
> Subject: [Healeys] Manifold drains
>
> To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
> Message-ID: <453094.49919.qm at web111413.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
>
> List   I'm still working on those carbs.  I need a source for the drain
>
> fittings on the bottom of the intake manifolds.  It has a 1/8" tube
> compression fitting on one side and what looks to be a 3/8"-26 thread on
> the
> other, where it screws into the manifold.  Is that a "British straight
> pipe"
>
> size?  If so I could modify a US 1/4" tapered pipe thread fitting with a
> die
> of the correct thread.  Any ideas guys??RegardsRay Juncal

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 06:44:57 2010
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 14:44:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
Message-ID: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>

Hi guys

Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines that
would allow you to identify one as being either

an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
or 29D (3000)


thanks

Derek
www.healeysix.net

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sat Jun  5 08:45:56 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 14:45:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
Message-ID: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>

I was driving out of the urban area into the rural area and the speed limit
gradually increases.  It seems to be too slow for the environment, so the
traffic usually moves much faster.  There was a construction zone that had a
section of road redone last year and this year they are just landscaping
around it.



I was minutely ( 82 in an 80 zone ) over the speed limit as I approached a
construction worker standing at the side of the road behind his pickup truck
holding a "slow" sign.  I was confused a bit and asking myself 'why' as I
approached, as there was no construction work in progress evident.  But, I
though perhaps there would be a sudden change as I drove over the crest of a
hill.  So, I do slow way down.  So, I got to the crest of the hill and nothing
was apparent for miles.  Being somewhat slow to catch on, I figured that
perhaps the guy forgot to go home when the rest of the crew left.  I hadn't
gone far when, I noticed a police car, hidden behind a hedge facing the road.
He must not have been getting much business what with the guy standing on the
other side of the crest directing traffic to slow down.



Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg

From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net  Sat Jun  5 09:57:02 2010
From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (prittenhouse2 at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 10:57:02 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Badge Bar Question
Message-ID: <8937002.385055.1275753422133.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net>


From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Sat Jun  5 10:23:23 2010
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard)
Date: Sat,  5 Jun 2010 18:23:23 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
Message-ID: <20138793.346201275755003073.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>

Funny Robert,

I was pulling out of a fast countryroad yesterday with my 3000, there was a
guy standing alone in the grass doing nothing.
He made me signs to slow down and put his hand at his eyes pretending to have
binoculars.
The police was 300 m down the road with laser binoculars.

I thought this way of acting was typically french...

B


I was driving out of the urban area into the rural area and the speed limit
gradually increases.B  It seems to be too slow for the environment, so the
traffic usually moves much faster.B  There was a construction zone that had a
section of road redone last year and this year they are just landscaping
around it.



I was minutely ( 82 in an 80 zone ) over the speed limit as I approached a
construction worker standing at the side of the road behind his pickup truck
holding a "slow" sign.B  I was confused a bit and asking myself 'why' as I
approached, as there was no construction work in progress evident.B  But, I
though perhaps there would be a sudden change as I drove over the crest of a
hill.B  So, I do slow way down.B  So, I got to the crest of the hill and
nothing
was apparent for miles.B  Being somewhat slow to catch on, I figured that
perhaps the guy forgot to go home when the rest of the crew left.B  I hadn't
gone far when, I noticed a police car, hidden behind a hedge facing the road.
He must not have been getting much business what with the guy standing on the
other side of the crest directing traffic to slow down.



Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 10:58:08 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 09:58:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E423EF41-1C17-4F52-8727-C7F27DFD10D6@gmail.com>

Where is that guy when I need him ;).LOL

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Jun 5, 2010, at 7:45 AM, <robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> I was driving out of the urban area into the rural area and the  
> speed limit
> gradually increases.  It seems to be too slow for the environment,  
> so the
> traffic usually moves much faster.  There was a construction zone  
> that had a
> section of road redone last year and this year they are just  
> landscaping
> around it.
>
>
>
> I was minutely ( 82 in an 80 zone ) over the speed limit as I  
> approached a
> construction worker standing at the side of the road behind his  
> pickup truck
> holding a "slow" sign.  I was confused a bit and asking myself 'why'  
> as I
> approached, as there was no construction work in progress evident.   
> But, I
> though perhaps there would be a sudden change as I drove over the  
> crest of a
> hill.  So, I do slow way down.  So, I got to the crest of the hill  
> and nothing
> was apparent for miles.  Being somewhat slow to catch on, I figured  
> that
> perhaps the guy forgot to go home when the rest of the crew left.  I  
> hadn't
> gone far when, I noticed a police car, hidden behind a hedge facing  
> the road.
> He must not have been getting much business what with the guy  
> standing on the
> other side of the crest directing traffic to slow down.
>
>
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>
> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 11:38:50 2010
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 19:38:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] The Sebring Streamlined 100-Sixs - another piece of
 interesting info for consideration.
Message-ID: <AANLkTimSXDCcCACVQr9_8QKG1wAhHO6nlr5LrbHbSB9T@mail.gmail.com>

In summary we know that the 1956 Bonneville car was SPL 227B clothed in a
streamlined aluminium body of which 3 other examples were built and raced at
Sebring 1957 on chassis that have so far eluded identification..

Information about the race entries states that car number 23 was AHS 3804. A
very interesting statement but it hasn't yet been 100% proven.

Other information mentions that Car number 25 was an Austin Healey
'Special'. But what was special about it? Joe Jarrick has provided
information that the Ferrari engine purchased by DHMC was fitted to a
streamliner, but after Sebring, so number 25 wasn't 'Special' for that
reason.

However it is possible that number 25 was one of the Special Test Cars.

Flicking through Bill Pigotts book on the AH 100 I noticed on page 59 a
small photo of a  piece of aluminum stamped 'Racer 25'. This piece is from
AHR7, NOJ 393, chassis number SPL226B. Nobody seems to know why it was
stamped 'Racer 25'.

Is it possible therefor that Sebring car number 25, the AH 'Special' was in
fact SPL 226B and was  stamped 'Racer 25", perhaps later?

I am convinced that the Streamlined racers were definitely 100s fitted with
six cylinder engines, and not 'real' 100-Sixs. If we know that SPL 227B was
given a streamlined body for Bonneville then it seems believable that SPL
226B could have been given one to race at Sebring. It then follows that AHS
3804 was number 23 and that number 24 was possibly also a special test car
or 100S.

Any comments?

Derek
www.healeysix.net

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Jun  5 11:38:09 2010
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 13:38:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 Speedo Core SN 6105/08
Message-ID: <20100605.103835.1057.146621@mailpop11.dca.untd.com>

I have a nice speedo core. The face is very good and just needs a
cleaning. The needle, high beam lens and adjustment end knob are missing.
The case is clean, with no rust and the bezel is very good. $45.00
shipped. Thanks.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Jumping 2000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c0a8bbeaf2a7298404st01duc

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sat Jun  5 11:55:18 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 17:55:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <20138793.346201275755003073.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>
References: <20138793.346201275755003073.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w2349EC5BF526977A6F627EB8D30@phx.gbl>

I was in Quebec ( the province ) at the time ... :)

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada


> From: bcrist at club-internet.fr
>
> Funny Robert,
>
> I was pulling out of a fast countryroad yesterday with my 3000, there was a
> guy standing alone in the grass doing nothing.
> He made me signs to slow down and put his hand at his eyes pretending to
have
> binoculars.
> The police was 300 m down the road with laser binoculars.
>
> I thought this way of acting was typically french...
>
> B
>
>
> I was driving out of the urban area into the rural area and the speed limit
> gradually increases.B It seems to be too slow for the environment, so the
> traffic usually moves much faster.B There was a construction zone that had
a
> section of road redone last year and this year they are just landscaping
> around it.
>
>
>
> I was minutely ( 82 in an 80 zone ) over the speed limit as I approached a
> construction worker standing at the side of the road behind his pickup
truck
> holding a "slow" sign.B I was confused a bit and asking myself 'why' as I
> approached, as there was no construction work in progress evident.B But, I
> though perhaps there would be a sudden change as I drove over the crest of
a
> hill.B So, I do slow way down.B So, I got to the crest of the hill and
> nothing
> was apparent for miles.B Being somewhat slow to catch on, I figured that
> perhaps the guy forgot to go home when the rest of the crew left.B I hadn't
> gone far when, I noticed a police car, hidden behind a hedge facing the
road.
> He must not have been getting much business what with the guy standing on
the
> other side of the crest directing traffic to slow down.
>
>
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>
> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Sat Jun  5 12:20:10 2010
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:20:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org>

Is that what they call Canada friendly?

John


On 6/5/2010 10:45 AM, robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote:
> I was driving out of the urban area into the rural area and the speed limit
> gradually increases.  It seems to be too slow for the environment, so the
> traffic usually moves much faster.  There was a construction zone that had a
> section of road redone last year and this year they are just landscaping
> around it.
>
>
>
> I was minutely ( 82 in an 80 zone ) over the speed limit as I approached a
> construction worker standing at the side of the road behind his pickup truck
> holding a "slow" sign.  I was confused a bit and asking myself 'why' as I
> approached, as there was no construction work in progress evident.  But, I
> though perhaps there would be a sudden change as I drove over the crest of a
> hill.  So, I do slow way down.  So, I got to the crest of the hill and nothing
> was apparent for miles.  Being somewhat slow to catch on, I figured that
> perhaps the guy forgot to go home when the rest of the crew left.  I hadn't
> gone far when, I noticed a police car, hidden behind a hedge facing the road.
> He must not have been getting much business what with the guy standing on the
> other side of the crest directing traffic to slow down.
>
>
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jun  5 12:28:52 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 13:28:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <20138793.346201275755003073.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>
References: <20138793.346201275755003073.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>
Message-ID: <4C0A9764.2060002@justbrits.com>

<< I was pulling out of a fast countryroad yesterday with my 3000, there
was a guy standing alone in the grass doing nothing. >>
 
HeeHee, around here [and rest of State] THAT guy would be
the one with the Laser/Radar gun !!!  Or the chap sitting on a
tractor/grass cutter !!  Or the bulldozer, or...........!

And they do a land office business !!!!!

Couple years ago, there was a State Chap sitting in a Prison
Work Gang [yep, they WERE there pickin up paper/trash] Van
with ONE DOZEN [12] "stop cars" just over the hill where there
was not a chance in He|| of seeing them prior to the chap in the
van !!  Downstate, State Cops actually use an OLD & FULLY
restored Piper Cub [was that J Model??] !!!  Up where I am it's
either a helicopter or a Cessna 172 in Bright Red paint sans
"State Seal[s]" !!!

But the best I EVER witnessed was a couple years ago when the
State Chaps got a "ride in Snoopy the Blimp" which was at
Chicagoland Speedway during the NASCAR Race.  Word from a
couple of the lads in stop cars was that NOBODY that did get stopped had 
even the slightest clue !!!!  LMAO !!!

They DO keep folks "honest" for a short period of time <VBG> !!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]

From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Jun  5 13:22:39 2010
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 19:22:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <be98d.293d5fbe.3939ed1f@aol.com>
References: <be98d.293d5fbe.3939ed1f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W29F6BB409E4AADB5063FC9A5D30@phx.gbl>

"This is what happens when you turn 35..." Still I'd like to try it again.
Bill Lawrence

From insptwo at msn.com  Sat Jun  5 13:54:27 2010
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 15:54:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <4C0A9764.2060002@justbrits.com>
References: <20138793.346201275755003073.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>,
	<4C0A9764.2060002@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W38922927ACF6FE4CD5AE36ADD30@phx.gbl>

The police here in St. Petersburg have had articles written on the amusing way
the use radar. One was dressed as a bum looking for a hand out with his radar
gun. They have used road crews. One of the best was a guy with several others
who were holding signs for money, his sign actually read "Your speed is being
checked by radar". Another was up on a light pole working (his work was using
his hand radar).

Bill

BJ7

> Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 13:28:52 -0500
> From: shop at justbrits.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
>
> << I was pulling out of a fast countryroad yesterday with my 3000, there
> was a guy standing alone in the grass doing nothing. >>
>
> HeeHee, around here [and rest of State] THAT guy would be
> the one with the Laser/Radar gun !!! Or the chap sitting on a
> tractor/grass cutter !! Or the bulldozer, or...........!
>
> And they do a land office business !!!!!
>
> Couple years ago, there was a State Chap sitting in a Prison
> Work Gang [yep, they WERE there pickin up paper/trash] Van
> with ONE DOZEN [12] "stop cars" just over the hill where there
> was not a chance in He|| of seeing them prior to the chap in the
> van !! Downstate, State Cops actually use an OLD & FULLY
> restored Piper Cub [was that J Model??] !!! Up where I am it's
> either a helicopter or a Cessna 172 in Bright Red paint sans
> "State Seal[s]" !!!
>
> But the best I EVER witnessed was a couple years ago when the
> State Chaps got a "ride in Snoopy the Blimp" which was at
> Chicagoland Speedway during the NASCAR Race. Word from a
> couple of the lads in stop cars was that NOBODY that did get stopped had
> even the slightest clue !!!! LMAO !!!
>
> They DO keep folks "honest" for a short period of time <VBG> !!
>
> Ed

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sat Jun  5 15:47:52 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 21:47:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Clubs
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W29F6BB409E4AADB5063FC9A5D30@phx.gbl>
References: <be98d.293d5fbe.3939ed1f@aol.com>,
	<BAY144-W29F6BB409E4AADB5063FC9A5D30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w32176946F40CB143DB8EFFB8D30@phx.gbl>

I'm 35 ... and dyslexic!  ;)

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada


> From: ynotink at msn.com
>
> "This is what happens when you turn 35..." Still I'd like to try it again.
> Bill Lawrence
> _______________________________________________

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 15:51:06 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 14:51:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
Message-ID: <4c0ac6ca.015b8d0a.16f4.ffff9287@mx.google.com>

Nothing honest about a speed trap, if you ask me

-----Original Message-----
From: insptwo at msn.com
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 12:54 PM
To: healey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT

The police here in St. Petersburg have had articles written on the amusing
way
the use radar. One was dressed as a bum looking for a hand out with his radar
gun. They have used road crews. One of the best was a guy with several others
who were holding signs for money, his sign actually read "Your speed is being
checked by radar". Another was up on a light pole working (his work was using
his hand radar).

Bill

BJ7

> Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 13:28:52 -0500
> From: shop at justbrits.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
>
> << I was pulling out of a fast countryroad yesterday with my 3000, there
> was a guy standing alone in the grass doing nothing. >>
>
> HeeHee, around here [and rest of State] THAT guy would be
> the one with the Laser/Radar gun !!! Or the chap sitting on a
> tractor/grass cutter !! Or the bulldozer, or...........!
>
> And they do a land office business !!!!!
>
> Couple years ago, there was a State Chap sitting in a Prison
> Work Gang [yep, they WERE there pickin up paper/trash] Van
> with ONE DOZEN [12] "stop cars" just over the hill where there
> was not a chance in He|| of seeing them prior to the chap in the
> van !! Downstate, State Cops actually use an OLD & FULLY
> restored Piper Cub [was that J Model??] !!! Up where I am it's
> either a helicopter or a Cessna 172 in Bright Red paint sans
> "State Seal[s]" !!!
>
> But the best I EVER witnessed was a couple years ago when the
> State Chaps got a "ride in Snoopy the Blimp" which was at
> Chicagoland Speedway during the NASCAR Race. Word from a
> couple of the lads in stop cars was that NOBODY that did get stopped had
> even the slightest clue !!!! LMAO !!!
>
> They DO keep folks "honest" for a short period of time <VBG> !!
>
> Ed
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.tea

[The entire original message is not included]

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sat Jun  5 15:56:44 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 21:56:44 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W38922927ACF6FE4CD5AE36ADD30@phx.gbl>
References: <20138793.346201275755003073.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>, ,
	<4C0A9764.2060002@justbrits.com>,
	<COL109-W38922927ACF6FE4CD5AE36ADD30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w642ED3D730DC6A3F00A597B8D30@phx.gbl>

Our guys aren't so devious.  They generally hide in plain sight and often wear
flourescent colours when standing on the street.  At intersections where red
light cameras are installed there is a big sign to notify you of it.

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada


> From: insptwo at msn.com
>
> The police here in St. Petersburg have had articles written on the amusing
way
> the use radar. One was dressed as a bum looking for a hand out with his
radar
> gun. They have used road crews. One of the best was a guy with several
others
> who were holding signs for money, his sign actually read "Your speed is
being
> checked by radar". Another was up on a light pole working (his work was
using
> his hand radar).
>
> Bill
>
> BJ7
>
> > Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 13:28:52 -0500
> > From: shop at justbrits.com
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
> >
> > << I was pulling out of a fast countryroad yesterday with my 3000, there
> > was a guy standing alone in the grass doing nothing. >>
> >
> > HeeHee, around here [and rest of State] THAT guy would be
> > the one with the Laser/Radar gun !!! Or the chap sitting on a
> > tractor/grass cutter !! Or the bulldozer, or...........!
> >
> > And they do a land office business !!!!!
> >
> > Couple years ago, there was a State Chap sitting in a Prison
> > Work Gang [yep, they WERE there pickin up paper/trash] Van
> > with ONE DOZEN [12] "stop cars" just over the hill where there
> > was not a chance in He|| of seeing them prior to the chap in the
> > van !! Downstate, State Cops actually use an OLD & FULLY
> > restored Piper Cub [was that J Model??] !!! Up where I am it's
> > either a helicopter or a Cessna 172 in Bright Red paint sans
> > "State Seal[s]" !!!
> >
> > But the best I EVER witnessed was a couple years ago when the
> > State Chaps got a "ride in Snoopy the Blimp" which was at
> > Chicagoland Speedway during the NASCAR Race. Word from a
> > couple of the lads in stop cars was that NOBODY that did get stopped had
> > even the slightest clue !!!! LMAO !!!
> >
> > They DO keep folks "honest" for a short period of time <VBG> !!
> >
> > Ed
> _______________________________________________

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sat Jun  5 16:02:28 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 22:02:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>,
	<4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w559B18EBED3B8598497CEAB8D30@phx.gbl>

I can't say that that is why, but he was risking some of his money by doing
so, if they could prove his intentions.  There is a big fine and I have heard
that they sometimes have unmarked police cars driving towards a radar trap to
see if, after you drive past it, you try to signal oncoming traffic to slow
down.  Flashing headlights used to be the sign and sometimes the hand out the
window with palm down.  You don't see the flashing headlights anymore.  The
hand out the window is a bit harder to prove as a signal, if you're not too
obvious.

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada


> Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 14:20:10 -0400
> From: javrugtman at htcnet.org
>
> Is that what they call Canada friendly?
>
> John
>
>
> On 6/5/2010 10:45 AM, robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote:
> > I was driving out of the urban area into the rural area and the speed
limit
> > gradually increases. It seems to be too slow for the environment, so the
> > traffic usually moves much faster. There was a construction zone that had
a
> > section of road redone last year and this year they are just landscaping
> > around it.
> >
> >
> >
> > I was minutely ( 82 in an 80 zone ) over the speed limit as I approached
a
> > construction worker standing at the side of the road behind his pickup
truck
> > holding a "slow" sign. I was confused a bit and asking myself 'why' as I
> > approached, as there was no construction work in progress evident. But, I
> > though perhaps there would be a sudden change as I drove over the crest of
a
> > hill. So, I do slow way down. So, I got to the crest of the hill and
nothing
> > was apparent for miles. Being somewhat slow to catch on, I figured that
> > perhaps the guy forgot to go home when the rest of the crew left. I
hadn't
> > gone far when, I noticed a police car, hidden behind a hedge facing the
road.
> > He must not have been getting much business what with the guy standing on
the
> > other side of the crest directing traffic to slow down.
> >
> >
> >
> > Robert Duquette
> > Ottawa ON Canada
> > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca

From chester3dog at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 16:36:02 2010
From: chester3dog at gmail.com (Chester Threedog)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 17:36:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <SNT114-W56E0CAFD14BB69E4CEE9BBA0D30@phx.gbl>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>
	<SNT114-W56E0CAFD14BB69E4CEE9BBA0D30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim4rLgE7UoXd_XAyyYaW1DeiMuCLh10Ih0G1-9S@mail.gmail.com>

Orginal post by Randy 01/2010


Couple interesting touches.

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-cocwJNQOGVA/1964_austin_healey_3000_mk_iii_0
07_q_inspired/


Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as chester3dog at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

On Fri, Jun 4, 2010 at 8:52 PM, gene stigen <gstigen at msn.com> wrote:

> They are used in many VW's, Jetta MK4's,Passats& Audi A4&a6. Easy to
> remove,
> mount &conceal. To can order them from VW-Audi or go to wrecking yards.
> cheers
> Geno
>
> > From: ruvino at ripnet.com
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 15:16:17 -0400
> > Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
>  >
> > I seem to recall (wasn't interested at the time, that somebody had
> installed
> a
> > slid out cup holder under the parcel shelf.
> > Tried the archives but couldn't find it.
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Carl
> > BN-4(L)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
> inbox.
>
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
> :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
>  _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/chester3dog at gmail.com

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sat Jun  5 16:49:23 2010
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 15:49:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome
Message-ID: <F447D6D4056D4B54B4D8D760265D2963@XPS400>

I am trying to restore a grill for my BN7.  The chrome is in fairly good
condition but dull and with some very small pitting.  I am wondering what
products others have used to polish old chrome, other than the usual chrome
polishes sold at every auto parts store.

Is it possible to buff out the chrome using a very mild buffing compound on a
power wheel?  Or will that just take off the chrome?

Thanks for any opinions.

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Jun  5 17:45:01 2010
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 16:45:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <BAY147-w559B18EBED3B8598497CEAB8D30@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>,
	<4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org>
	<BAY147-w559B18EBED3B8598497CEAB8D30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <84245FCFFB024874B69F281FAB9FD1B8@LeonardPCPC>

Not speed trap related but driving ignorance.  I would love to have the 
ticket concession at the intersection of Nut Tree Parkway and Ulatis Drive 
here in Vacaville.

It is against state law to make a turn against a red arrow traffic light. 
As you approach this intersection westbound, there are two signs before the 
intersection that say "NO TURN ON RED".  There is a third sign hanging 
beside the traffic lights over the roadway.  Yet drivers regularly make a 
right turn against the red light.  Sometimes there is a motorcycle officer 
there and I am sure that if he had a quota (I'm not saying, mind you....), 
he would easily exceed it quickly.

A resident of Petaluma had the audacity to write a letter to the editor of 
the local newspaper complaining about the ($375) ticket he got and vowing to 
boycott Vacaville and the factory stores he came to visit.  Not only did he 
get the ticket for breaking the law, he publicized his lack of knowledge of 
the law for all to see.

By the way, I have not seen any Healey drivers make this mistake! (Healey 
content added)

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 19:15:42 2010
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 20:15:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome
In-Reply-To: <F447D6D4056D4B54B4D8D760265D2963@XPS400>
References: <F447D6D4056D4B54B4D8D760265D2963@XPS400>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin9TT3TyQ6hBwRNY3TZ4Gyu-caajfsBwA693KWo@mail.gmail.com>

ron,
your grille is stainless steel rather than chromed steel.  note it is not
magnetic.  same goes for the eyebrow.
cheers,
jerry

On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:49 PM, Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I am trying to restore a grill for my BN7.  The chrome is in fairly good
> condition but dull and with some very small pitting.  I am wondering what
> products others have used to polish old chrome, other than the usual chrome
> polishes sold at every auto parts store.
>
> Is it possible to buff out the chrome using a very mild buffing compound on
> a
> power wheel?  Or will that just take off the chrome?
>
> Thanks for any opinions.
>
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
> 66 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun  5 19:54:26 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 21:54:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Check Straps
Message-ID: <003a01cb051b$321e1800$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I thought I would turn my attention to the passenger door check strap one more
time in hope to make it a little more affective.  The archives was a bit
confusing where a couple of  listings mentioned that the friction disc goes
directly under the star cup washer. The manual shows it between the bracket
and the arm.

 Which is correct, under the star washer or between the bracket and the arm?

Mark

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jun  5 20:16:06 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 21:16:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <84245FCFFB024874B69F281FAB9FD1B8@LeonardPCPC>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>,
	<4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org>
	<BAY147-w559B18EBED3B8598497CEAB8D30@phx.gbl>
	<84245FCFFB024874B69F281FAB9FD1B8@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <4C0B04E6.2070805@justbrits.com>

I am VERY sure, Len..............

<<state law to make a turn against a red arrow traffic light.>>

that it is also the same in EVERY State that has adopted
the Uniform Motor Vehicle Act from the FMVSS.

Besides and unless EVERYTHING I have learned the the
"couple/few" years, RED means STOP and of course it would
be worse with the presence of a "Arrow Traffic Signal" that
is RED <VBG> !!!

Where there any "rebuttals" in the OpEd Column <VBEG> ??
 
<< By the way, I have not seen any Healey drivers make this mistake! >>

Odds ARE in MY favour, but I'll bet there are a "goodly"
number of Healey [and ALL other 'brands'] drivers that ARE
VERY guilty just in their everyday driving of rolling Red Lights and/or 
STOP Signs.  And the second or 2 "saved" by "rolling a
red light at intersections where Right Turn on Red IS legal will
save said person at least 5 minutes a YEAR.  Whoopy-do !!
Is NOT worth it, IMNSHO.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sat Jun  5 20:17:07 2010
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 12:17:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>

The cylinder heads are the giveaway. ;-)
The log head is the early 100/6
The pre BJ8 12 port head is different to the BJ8 12 port head casting  
- different casting number, and a distinct difference around the  
thermostat area - look at the sculpting of the head casting
In 3 litre blocks there are 2 castings. Pre bj8 blocks have the  
dipstick low on the block. BJ8s have a high mounted dipstick
Obviously, the same general guidelines applies to sedans of the same  
era. Eg a 1966 Wolseley has the same block/ head casting as a BJ8. But  
many sedans had the starter motor on the opposite side to a Healey. Ie  
different rear engine plate.
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone

On 05/06/2010, at 10:44 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi guys
>
> Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines  
> that
> would allow you to identify one as being either
>
> an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
> or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
> or 29D (3000)
>
>
> thanks
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
> ________________

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Jun  5 22:31:43 2010
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 21:31:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <4C0B04E6.2070805@justbrits.com>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>,
	<4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org><BAY147-w559B18EBED3B8598497CEAB8D30@phx.gbl><84245FCFFB024874B69F281FAB9FD1B8@LeonardPCPC>
	<4C0B04E6.2070805@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <545A72CA347A4375B7CDE5525A7ACCA5@LeonardPCPC>

Ed:  Yes.  Mine in our Letters to the Editor.  And I sent a copy to the 
Petaluma newspaper.  I don't know if they ran it or if the driver ever saw 
it.

The complainer had gone back 2 1/2 years in receipts to find out how much 
money he had spent in Vacaville.  I suggested in my letter that rather than 
spending time looking at receipts for the last 2 1/2 years, he should have 
spent a few minutes looking in the California Driver Handbook or the Vehicle 
Code.

I further advised him  that we would miss his money but he should not worry. 
Our efficient police department would continue to enforce the law and make 
it up in no time.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT


>
> Where there any "rebuttals" in the OpEd Column <VBEG> ??
>
>
> Ed
/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net 

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Sun Jun  6 00:13:05 2010
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 08:13:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikAyPQXsVfqsANj_-BwtkFq2pKsrfhjWPvHJJK8@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the comments everyone. I probably should have been more specific.

Im looking at a very early Longbridge 100-Six which would have had an IC
engine and the integral manifold. As is common, the old head has been
replaced with a 12 port head and HS6 carbs. (Actually the carbs should be
HD6's but that's another issue)

The current owner believes that during a very extensive restoration in 1992
the previous owner installed a replacement engine block. There is no ID tag
on the engine, so I'm trying to visually determine whether the current block
is a replacement IC, or the newer 26 D, or even possibly a 29D.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 4:17 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>wrote:

> The cylinder heads are the giveaway. ;-)
> The log head is the early 100/6
> The pre BJ8 12 port head is different to the BJ8 12 port head casting -
> different casting number, and a distinct difference around the thermostat
> area - look at the sculpting of the head casting
> In 3 litre blocks there are 2 castings. Pre bj8 blocks have the dipstick
> low on the block. BJ8s have a high mounted dipstick
> Obviously, the same general guidelines applies to sedans of the same era.
> Eg a 1966 Wolseley has the same block/ head casting as a BJ8. But many
> sedans had the starter motor on the opposite side to a Healey. Ie different
> rear engine plate.
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On 05/06/2010, at 10:44 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>   Hi guys
>>
>> Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines that
>> would allow you to identify one as being either
>>
>> an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
>> or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
>> or 29D (3000)
>>
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Derek
>> www.healeysix.net
>> ________________

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Sun Jun  6 01:19:31 2010
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 09:19:31 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E5@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>

Chris,
I need to correct you. There are 3 different 12 port head castings.
1 The early one without the "nose" for the late 100/6s
2 The one for the Thermo-Choke on early 3000s
3 The "nose" one following the Thermo-Choke one on 3000 Mk1 to Mk3.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Chris Dimmock
Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 04:17
An: Derek Job
Cc: Forum
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines

The cylinder heads are the giveaway. ;-) The log head is the early 100/6 The
pre BJ8 12 port head is different to the BJ8 12 port head casting
- different casting number, and a distinct difference around the thermostat
area - look at the sculpting of the head casting In 3 litre blocks there are 2
castings. Pre bj8 blocks have the dipstick low on the block. BJ8s have a high
mounted dipstick Obviously, the same general guidelines applies to sedans of
the same era. Eg a 1966 Wolseley has the same block/ head casting as a BJ8.
But many sedans had the starter motor on the opposite side to a Healey. Ie
different rear engine plate.
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone

On 05/06/2010, at 10:44 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi guys
>
> Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines
> that would allow you to identify one as being either
>
> an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
> or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
> or 29D (3000)
>
>
> thanks
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Sun Jun  6 01:37:27 2010
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 09:37:27 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikAyPQXsVfqsANj_-BwtkFq2pKsrfhjWPvHJJK8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>
	<AANLkTikAyPQXsVfqsANj_-BwtkFq2pKsrfhjWPvHJJK8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E6@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>

Derek,
As far as can tell, the 26D blocks are all the same. The 29D block is
different in the casting (more strengthening) and the engine number is as far
as I recollect higher and more to the front on the block than on the 26D
blocks. On 26D engines it was 6 inches back from the front, on 29D engines
only 2 inches.
A picture of ther engine number tag of a 29D block you will find in Ditlev
Clausager`s book "Original Austin-Healey" on page 89.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Derek Job
Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 08:13
An: Chris Dimmock
Cc: Forum
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines

Thanks for the comments everyone. I probably should have been more specific.

Im looking at a very early Longbridge 100-Six which would have had an IC
engine and the integral manifold. As is common, the old head has been replaced
with a 12 port head and HS6 carbs. (Actually the carbs should be HD6's but
that's another issue)

The current owner believes that during a very extensive restoration in 1992
the previous owner installed a replacement engine block. There is no ID tag on
the engine, so I'm trying to visually determine whether the current block is a
replacement IC, or the newer 26 D, or even possibly a 29D.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 4:17 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>wrote:

> The cylinder heads are the giveaway. ;-) The log head is the early
> 100/6 The pre BJ8 12 port head is different to the BJ8 12 port head
> casting - different casting number, and a distinct difference around
> the thermostat area - look at the sculpting of the head casting In 3
> litre blocks there are 2 castings. Pre bj8 blocks have the dipstick
> low on the block. BJ8s have a high mounted dipstick Obviously, the
> same general guidelines applies to sedans of the same era.
> Eg a 1966 Wolseley has the same block/ head casting as a BJ8. But many
> sedans had the starter motor on the opposite side to a Healey. Ie
> different rear engine plate.
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On 05/06/2010, at 10:44 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>   Hi guys
>>
>> Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines
>> that would allow you to identify one as being either
>>
>> an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
>> or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
>> or 29D (3000)
>>
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Derek

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Sun Jun  6 01:57:30 2010
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 09:57:30 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E6@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>
	<AANLkTikAyPQXsVfqsANj_-BwtkFq2pKsrfhjWPvHJJK8@mail.gmail.com>
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E6@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimf-ND-c5e_Au33WZkELh1h_69vgifX5svkjq_S@mail.gmail.com>

Joseph

When you say 'the 26D blocks are all the same, do you mean the IC block is
the same as the 26D block?

thanks Derek

On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 9:37 AM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:

> Derek,
> As far as can tell, the 26D blocks are all the same. The 29D block is
> different in the casting (more strengthening) and the engine number is as
> far as I recollect higher and more to the front on the block than on the
26D
> blocks. On 26D engines it was 6 inches back from the front, on 29D engines
> only 2 inches.
> A picture of ther engine number tag of a 29D block you will find in Ditlev
> Clausager`s book "Original Austin-Healey" on page 89.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> Im Auftrag von Derek Job
> Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 08:13
> An: Chris Dimmock
> Cc: Forum
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
>
> Thanks for the comments everyone. I probably should have been more
> specific.
>
> Im looking at a very early Longbridge 100-Six which would have had an IC
> engine and the integral manifold. As is common, the old head has been
> replaced with a 12 port head and HS6 carbs. (Actually the carbs should be
> HD6's but that's another issue)
>
> The current owner believes that during a very extensive restoration in 1992
> the previous owner installed a replacement engine block. There is no ID tag
> on the engine, so I'm trying to visually determine whether the current
block
> is a replacement IC, or the newer 26 D, or even possibly a 29D.
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
>
> On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 4:17 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com
> >wrote:
>
> > The cylinder heads are the giveaway. ;-) The log head is the early
> > 100/6 The pre BJ8 12 port head is different to the BJ8 12 port head
> > casting - different casting number, and a distinct difference around
> > the thermostat area - look at the sculpting of the head casting In 3
> > litre blocks there are 2 castings. Pre bj8 blocks have the dipstick
> > low on the block. BJ8s have a high mounted dipstick Obviously, the
> > same general guidelines applies to sedans of the same era.
> > Eg a 1966 Wolseley has the same block/ head casting as a BJ8. But many
> > sedans had the starter motor on the opposite side to a Healey. Ie
> > different rear engine plate.
> > Chris
> > www.myaustinhealey.com
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >
> > On 05/06/2010, at 10:44 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >   Hi guys
> >>
> >> Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines
> >> that would allow you to identify one as being either
> >>
> >> an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
> >> or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
> >> or 29D (3000)
> >>
> >>
> >> thanks
> >>
> >> Derek
> >> www.healeysix.net

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sun Jun  6 04:19:20 2010
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 20:19:20 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E5@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E5@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>
Message-ID: <303ACF77-6959-474F-8FA0-CC2FBBA1407E@gmail.com>

Hi Josef,
Happy to be corrected, but I'm not understanding the differences you
cite.
I've seen 2 different 12port head castings - as i said, the area
around the thermostat/ temp sensor.
The BJ8 head is different to all the earlier 12 port heads.
The unseen difference is the BJ8 head spark plug seat is too far away
from the combustion chamber, by over 100 thou.
That's why a BJ8 has vastly different ignition timing to any other 3
litre Healey engine.
Look at the ignition specs.
Bj8 heads are different. Not sure of your other 2 points

Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 06/06/2010, at 5:19 PM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:

> Chris,
> I need to correct you. There are 3 different 12 port head castings.
> 1 The early one without the "nose" for the late 100/6s
> 2 The one for the Thermo-Choke on early 3000s
> 3 The "nose" one following the Thermo-Choke one on 3000 Mk1 to Mk3.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
> -----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Chris Dimmock
> Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 04:17
> An: Derek Job
> Cc: Forum
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
>
> The cylinder heads are the giveaway. ;-) The log head is the early
> 100/6 The pre BJ8 12 port head is different to the BJ8 12 port head
> casting
> - different casting number, and a distinct difference around the
> thermostat area - look at the sculpting of the head casting In 3
> litre blocks there are 2 castings. Pre bj8 blocks have the dipstick
> low on the block. BJ8s have a high mounted dipstick Obviously, the
> same general guidelines applies to sedans of the same era. Eg a 1966
> Wolseley has the same block/ head casting as a BJ8. But many sedans
> had the starter motor on the opposite side to a Healey. Ie different
> rear engine plate.
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 05/06/2010, at 10:44 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi guys
>>
>> Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines
>> that would allow you to identify one as being either
>>
>> an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
>> or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
>> or 29D (3000)
>>
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Derek
>> www.healeysix.net
>> _______________

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Sun Jun  6 05:50:21 2010
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 13:50:21 +0200
Subject: [Healeys]  External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <303ACF77-6959-474F-8FA0-CC2FBBA1407E@gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E5@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>
	<303ACF77-6959-474F-8FA0-CC2FBBA1407E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483F6@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>

Hi Chris,
here I am not with you. All 3000 heads are the same casting, casting number
AEC 960, except the early ones with the opening for the thermo choke sensor.
Josef Eckert

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 12:19
An: Eckert, Josef
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: AW: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines

Hi Josef,
Happy to be corrected, but I'm not understanding the differences you cite.
I've seen 2 different 12port head castings - as i said, the area around the
thermostat/ temp sensor.
The BJ8 head is different to all the earlier 12 port heads.
The unseen difference is the BJ8 head spark plug seat is too far away from the
combustion chamber, by over 100 thou.
That's why a BJ8 has vastly different ignition timing to any other 3 litre
Healey engine.
Look at the ignition specs.
Bj8 heads are different. Not sure of your other 2 points

Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 06/06/2010, at 5:19 PM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:

> Chris,
> I need to correct you. There are 3 different 12 port head castings.
> 1 The early one without the "nose" for the late 100/6s
> 2 The one for the Thermo-Choke on early 3000s
> 3 The "nose" one following the Thermo-Choke one on 3000 Mk1 to Mk3.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Chris Dimmock
> Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 04:17
> An: Derek Job
> Cc: Forum
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
>
> The cylinder heads are the giveaway. ;-) The log head is the early
> 100/6 The pre BJ8 12 port head is different to the BJ8 12 port head
> casting
> - different casting number, and a distinct difference around the
> thermostat area - look at the sculpting of the head casting In 3 litre
> blocks there are 2 castings. Pre bj8 blocks have the dipstick low on
> the block. BJ8s have a high mounted dipstick Obviously, the same
> general guidelines applies to sedans of the same era. Eg a 1966
> Wolseley has the same block/ head casting as a BJ8. But many sedans
> had the starter motor on the opposite side to a Healey. Ie different
> rear engine plate.
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 05/06/2010, at 10:44 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi guys
>>
>> Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines
>> that would allow you to identify one as being either
>>
>> an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
>> or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
>> or 29D (3000)
>>
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Derek
>> www.healeysix.net
>> _______________

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Jun  6 06:07:13 2010
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 08:07:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Check Straps
In-Reply-To: <003a01cb051b$321e1800$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <003a01cb051b$321e1800$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <000601cb0570$cd196260$674c2720$@rr.com>

Mark, the friction disc goes between the bracket and the arm, per the
manual.  The star washer goes on top of the arm, then the locking plate.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 9:54 PM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Door Check Straps

I thought I would turn my attention to the passenger door check strap one
more
time in hope to make it a little more affective.  The archives was a bit
confusing where a couple of  listings mentioned that the friction disc goes
directly under the star cup washer. The manual shows it between the bracket
and the arm.

 Which is correct, under the star washer or between the bracket and the arm?

Mark

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  6 06:30:00 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 05:30:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] D-Day
Message-ID: <367155.41523.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Take a moment today to remember those who returned to start the LBC hobby ... and those that never got the chance.

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 07:57:09 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 09:57:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #1
Message-ID: <8CCD3974A74C1FF-3C68-C8D8@Webmail-d105.sysops.aol.com>

A friend's JB7 overdrive has stopped releasing (stopped going out of
overdrive). Electrically, everything is operating correctly. On rare occasions
it will release but 90% of the time it stays in overdrive. He knows to not
back up with it stuck in overdrive. When he stops the engine, we rock the car
backward & forward in gear until the overdrive releases with a bang. What is
the likely cause of this & are there any tests that we can perform of fixes we
can do with the overdrive/transmission in the car?
Gary Hodson

From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 07:57:27 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 09:57:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #2
Message-ID: <8CCD3975536DD64-3C68-C8DF@Webmail-d105.sysops.aol.com>

A friend's BN7 overdrive won't engage. The electrical system is operating
correctly. Initially, the alignment lever did not appear to be precisely
aligned with the alignment hole, so we adjusted that per the manual, but that
did not fix it. Next, we went for a drive with the tunnel off & when the
overdrive solenoid was activated we pushed the alignment lever farther down by
hand to see if that would cause it to engage. It did not. The overdrive has 30
Wt. non-detergent oil in it.  What are some of the possible causes for this?
Our club is going to invest in a pressure gage. Where can we purchase one with
the correct fittings, etc.? What tests can we perform with the overdrive in
place to isolate the cause of the problem? I am reasonably sure the overdrive
cannot be removed without also pulling the transmission, but like to confirm
that.
Gary Hodson

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sun Jun  6 08:14:31 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 14:14:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <545A72CA347A4375B7CDE5525A7ACCA5@LeonardPCPC>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>, ,
	<4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org><BAY147-w559B18EBED3B8598497CEAB8D30@phx.gbl><84245FCFFB024874B69F281FAB9FD1B8@LeonardPCPC>,
	<4C0B04E6.2070805@justbrits.com>,
	<545A72CA347A4375B7CDE5525A7ACCA5@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w5D99744C41F88A0B7330AB8D40@phx.gbl>

When in Rome ...


I once got stopped for going the speed limit.  I got told by the officer to
"go with the flow" and keep up to the traffic.  ( which is what I was doing
before I saw him creeping up on me. ;) )


Robert





> From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> The complainer

...

> he should have
> spent a few minutes looking in the California Driver Handbook or the Vehicle
> Code.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Sun Jun  6 08:24:05 2010
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 00:24:05 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] The Sebring Streamlined 100-Sixs - another piece of
 interesting info for consideration.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimSXDCcCACVQr9_8QKG1wAhHO6nlr5LrbHbSB9T@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimSXDCcCACVQr9_8QKG1wAhHO6nlr5LrbHbSB9T@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C0BAF85.8090208@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

Derek Job wrote:

>..
>
>Information about the race entries states that car number 23 was AHS 3804. A
>very interesting statement but it hasn't yet been 100% proven.
>
>
>Any comments?
>
>Derek
>www.healeysix.net
>______________________
>  
>
The listing from 'TIME AND TWO SEATS' by Janos Wiffen has race no. 23 as 
chassis no. 3804,

also no. 24 as Austin Healey 100.S
also no. 25 as Austin Healey 100.S Special

Wiffen has a total of 2255 pages over two volumes dedicated to recording 
sports car racing.


We also have these cars listed in Ken Breslaurer's book on the history 
of Sebring as engine capacity of  2680cc and model as 100/6 .
Publicity wish Healeys no doubt wanted to push the current model - 100/6.

In 'BAHAMA SPEED WEEKS' by Terry O'Neil for December 1956 races lists 
No. 11 Austin Healey 100/6 to be driven by Stirling Moss and I quote the 
text " It would also appear that an Austin Healey BN2 long nosed car 
with 100/6 specification was at Nassau, described as the Bonneville 
record breaker. It is pictured in Tom Burnside's book American Racing"

At the same event was Austin Healey chassis No. 3804 driven by P Stiles .

Joe

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  6 08:40:54 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 07:40:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans Disaster
Message-ID: <511696.22938.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

For our British listers, BBC 4 will show the new documentary "The Deadliest
Crash the LeMans 1955 at 22:00 this evening. It will be available later on
iplayer for us colonials: 
 http://tinyurl.com/3a4bc9n  It apparently doesn't solve the endless
speculation of whether Lance Macklin's Healey "caused" the accident.  An
interesting discussion of the documentary can be found here:
http://tinyurl.com/23wtvkf


Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Sun Jun  6 08:51:35 2010
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:51:35 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] The Sebring Streamlined 100-Sixs - another piece of
 interesting info for consideration.
In-Reply-To: <4C0BAF85.8090208@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
References: <AANLkTimSXDCcCACVQr9_8QKG1wAhHO6nlr5LrbHbSB9T@mail.gmail.com>
	<4C0BAF85.8090208@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikzFDNAidr1l97Vw1j9N5ggCJnZkGJc54Y3E1U_@mail.gmail.com>

Joe

I believe number 23 was AHS 3804 but I was being cautious as I'm not sure
everyone necessarily agrees. Not sure what the current owners views are. A
lot of the book quotes are repeating the same single sourced piece of
information. Breslauers info is incorrect in that they were 2640cc not
2680cc.

I was particularly interested in comments regarding number 25 being NOJ
393 rebodied and re-engined.

Apparantly the cars were returned to England after the race and Bill Piggott
states that NOJ 393 was sold off in March 1957, which would fit in with it
being sold after return from Sebring.

cheers

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 4:24 PM, Joe and Lenore Armour <
sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:

> Derek Job wrote:
>
>  ..
>>
>> Information about the race entries states that car number 23 was AHS 3804.
>> A
>> very interesting statement but it hasn't yet been 100% proven.
>>
>>
>> Any comments?
>>
>> Derek
>> www.healeysix.net
>> ______________________
>>
>>
> The listing from 'TIME AND TWO SEATS' by Janos Wiffen has race no. 23 as
> chassis no. 3804,
>
> also no. 24 as Austin Healey 100.S
> also no. 25 as Austin Healey 100.S Special
>
> Wiffen has a total of 2255 pages over two volumes dedicated to recording
> sports car racing.
>
>
> We also have these cars listed in Ken Breslaurer's book on the history of
> Sebring as engine capacity of  2680cc and model as 100/6 .
> Publicity wish Healeys no doubt wanted to push the current model - 100/6.
>
> In 'BAHAMA SPEED WEEKS' by Terry O'Neil for December 1956 races lists No.
> 11 Austin Healey 100/6 to be driven by Stirling Moss and I quote the text "
> It would also appear that an Austin Healey BN2 long nosed car with 100/6
> specification was at Nassau, described as the Bonneville record breaker. It
> is pictured in Tom Burnside's book American Racing"
>
> At the same event was Austin Healey chassis No. 3804 driven by P Stiles .
>
> Joe

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Sun Jun  6 08:57:14 2010
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard)
Date: Sun,  6 Jun 2010 16:57:14 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] D-Day
Message-ID: <3016846.480941275836234809.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>

Last time I was there.
Respect.
B

> Take a moment today to remember those who returned to start the LBC hobby ... and those that never got the chance.
>
> Rick

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0894.jpg]

From kags at shaw.ca  Sun Jun  6 09:24:20 2010
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 08:24:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #1
References: <8CCD3974A74C1FF-3C68-C8D8@Webmail-d105.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <03474F5F26944EB5A24CB5DF8ECE3132@computer>

Gary:

This happened to a friend of mine awhile back - overdrive wouldn't 
disengage, but if he wailed 5 - 10 minutes, upon starting the car again it 
was out of overdrive.  Turned out that there was a small bit of crud in the 
operating valve which was partially blocking the oil vent holes that allow 
the overdrive to realease.  This may not be your friends problem, although 
the symptoms are somewhat the same, and it's relatively easy to check with 
the trans/OD in the car , with the tunnel cover off.

Simply remove the operating valve plug, spring / plunger, ball, and the 
valve, and thoroughly inspect and clean the valve itself.  Work carefully - 
you don't want any damage to the ball or valve, otherwise it won't seat 
properly on re-assembly, and the overdrive may not go in.

It's worth a try because it's easy.  If no success, it's likely that the 
problem is internal, and things will have to come apart for diagnosis.

Let us know.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <warthodson at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 6:57 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #1


A friend's JB7 overdrive has stopped releasing (stopped going out of
overdrive). Electrically, everything is operating correctly. On rare 
occasions
it will release but 90% of the time it stays in overdrive. He knows to not
back up with it stuck in overdrive. When he stops the engine, we rock the 
car
backward & forward in gear until the overdrive releases with a bang. What is
the likely cause of this & are there any tests that we can perform of fixes 
we
can do with the overdrive/transmission in the car?
Gary Hodson

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jun  6 09:40:50 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 08:40:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (somewhat) Off-topic: speed limits
Message-ID: <4C0BC182.7080704@comcast.net>

Just came back from a 4K+ mile road trip through the US Southwest.  
Being a native Californian, I have to say I was impressed with the way 
some other states handle speed limits and enforcement.  In AZ, NM, TX, 
OK, KS, CO, UT and NV the speed limits are generally more reasonable; 
e.g. 70-75mph on freeways, and 60-65mph on decent quality 'backroads.'  
And, it appeared the limits are enforced without mercy (esp. in AZ and 
NM).  These are, of course, good cruising speeds for a Big Healey. 

In CA, similar backroads will have a 55mph speed limit, but everyone 
will do 65mph+ with impunity (usually).   I also like the 'Stay On The 
Right Except To Pass' policy on TX freeways--much less lane-cutting and 
generally more civil behavior, compared to oh, say, Interstate 5 in 
central CA.

Off the soapbox ...


bs

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

You can possess an exotic car, but an Austin-Healey posesses you.
*******************************************************************

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Jun  6 10:15:07 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 12:15:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #2
In-Reply-To: <8CCD3975536DD64-3C68-C8DF@Webmail-d105.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCD3975536DD64-3C68-C8DF@Webmail-d105.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <028a01cb0593$6e374b40$4aa5e1c0$@net>

Go to:

http://www.dunritetool.com/AH%20Products/DRT%20Site%20AH%20Products.htm



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 9:57 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #2

A friend's BN7 overdrive won't engage. The electrical system is operating
correctly. Initially, the alignment lever did not appear to be precisely
aligned with the alignment hole, so we adjusted that per the manual, but
that
did not fix it. Next, we went for a drive with the tunnel off & when the
overdrive solenoid was activated we pushed the alignment lever farther down
by
hand to see if that would cause it to engage. It did not. The overdrive has
30
Wt. non-detergent oil in it.  What are some of the possible causes for this?
Our club is going to invest in a pressure gage. Where can we purchase one
with
the correct fittings, etc.? What tests can we perform with the overdrive in
place to isolate the cause of the problem? I am reasonably sure the
overdrive
cannot be removed without also pulling the transmission, but like to confirm
that.
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  6 10:28:36 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 09:28:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans Disaster-Correction
In-Reply-To: <511696.22938.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <772605.568.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Iplayer is only available in the UK -we won't be able to see it in the U.S.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 6/6/10, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] LeMans Disaster
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, June 6, 2010, 10:40 AM

For our British listers, BBC 4 will show the new documentary "The Deadliest
Crash the LeMans 1955 at 22:00 this evening. It will be available later on
iplayer for us colonials:
 http://tinyurl.com/3a4bc9n  It apparently doesn't solve the endless
speculation of whether Lance Macklin's Healey "caused" the accident.  An
interesting discussion of the documentary can be found here:
http://tinyurl.com/23wtvkf


Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun  6 11:26:07 2010
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 10:26:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problems / Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauge
Message-ID: <441562.35179.qm@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greetings Gary, 

I have OD Oil Pressure Gauges on hand if you want one. Knowing what's going on with the oil pressure the unit's making is key to problem diagnosis. Here's where to see more detail:

http://webspace.webring.com/people/tj/jholekamp/

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4 (with A Type OD) since '67

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Sun Jun  6 11:28:18 2010
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard)
Date: Sun,  6 Jun 2010 19:28:18 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] (somewhat) Off-topic: speed limits
In-Reply-To: <772605.568.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <27037636.523181275845298286.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>

And we're complaining because of our 80mph limit on the highways and 55 on the
other roads.
There's usually a 10% tolerance or uncertainty margin.
B

Bob Spidell a C)crit :
>
> Just came back from a 4K+ mile road trip through the US Southwest.B  Being a
native Californian, I have to say I was impressed with the way some other
states handle speed limits and enforcement.B  In AZ, NM, TX, OK, KS, CO, UT
and NV the speed limits are generally more reasonable; e.g. 70-75mph on
freeways, and 60-65mph on decent quality 'backroads.'B  And, it appeared the
limits are enforced without mercy (esp. in AZ and NM).B  These are, of course,
good cruising speeds for a Big Healey.
> In CA, similar backroads will have a 55mph speed limit, but everyone will do
65mph+ with impunity (usually).B B  I also like the 'Stay On The Right Except
To Pass' policy on TX freeways--much less lane-cutting and generally more
civil behavior, compared to oh, say, Interstate 5 in central CA.
>
> Off the soapbox ...
>
>
> bs
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob SpidellB B B B B B B B B B  San Jose, CAB B B B B B B B B B B 
bspidell at comcast.net
>
> You can possess an exotic car, but an Austin-Healey posesses you.
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Jun  6 12:15:42 2010
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 14:15:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3-point belts for rear seats
Message-ID: <002301cb05a4$46cbfc20$d463f460$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
A friend has asked if there are 3-point belts available for the rear seats
in a Healey, for additional protection of the little  ones who ride back
there.
Anyone know?
 
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666           
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Sun Jun  6 12:48:44 2010
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 14:48:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Coupon
Message-ID: <AANLkTil5zUAGr0VG9YrzLT5MU7nr59tX8C0V8-DU8UMk@mail.gmail.com>

Buried way down in our Sunday paper today, in among all of those fall
out throw away ads, there was an insert that has coupons for food,
soap, etc. In among all that junk today, in our area at least, way an
ad for HF. One of the coupons in that ad was for 20% off any single
purchase, including sale items. My wife pointed it out, and I have
clipped it and put it into my billfold. Doesn't expire until Oct. 6.
If you have HF near, you might want to look as well. NFI.


Bob Johnson
BJ8

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Sun Jun  6 13:01:34 2010
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 15:01:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Off topic: speed limits
Message-ID: <000c01cb05aa$af3fbc00$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

<  I also like the 'Stay On The Right Except
To Pass' policy on TX freeways--much less lane-cutting and generally more
civil behavior,   >

Sounds like we have more cowboys up here in Canada than y'all in Texas.

Seems the lane of choice for really agressive drivers up here is the inside
so-called slow lane.  You can be driving in the middle lane, spot your exit up
ahead, check the mirrors, put on your blinkers, move to the right, and get
suddenly blown away by a BMW rocketing out of nowhere and passing you on the
right at a speed faster than the fast lane, and at the last second crossing
the exit ramp lines to bully his way left back into the highway traffic.

Best
Peter

From raymead at comcast.net  Sun Jun  6 13:37:13 2010
From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 19:37:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Coupon
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTil5zUAGr0VG9YrzLT5MU7nr59tX8C0V8-DU8UMk@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1931011688.2312641275853033337.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Bob



these same coupons are in just about every car magazine.........



take care, ray


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8 at gmail.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 6, 2010 2:48:44 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Coupon

Buried way down in our Sunday paper today, in among all of those fall
out throw away ads, there was an insert that has coupons for food,
soap, etc. In among all that junk today, in our area at least, way an
ad for HF. One of the coupons in that ad was for 20% off any single
purchase, including sale items. My wife pointed it out, and I have
clipped it and put it into my billfold. Doesn't expire until Oct. 6.
If you have HF near, you might want to look as well. NFI.


Bob Johnson
BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/raymead at comcast.net

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Jun  6 13:44:47 2010
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 15:44:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #2
In-Reply-To: <028a01cb0593$6e374b40$4aa5e1c0$@net>
References: <8CCD3975536DD64-3C68-C8DF@Webmail-d105.sysops.aol.com>
	<028a01cb0593$6e374b40$4aa5e1c0$@net>
Message-ID: <4C0BFAAF.6020807@earthlink.net>

With Don Lenschow's recent passing, is Dun-Rite still in business?

Bob

John Sims wrote:
> Go to:
> 
> http://www.dunritetool.com/AH%20Products/DRT%20Site%20AH%20Products.htm
> 
> 
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Jun  6 13:46:44 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 15:46:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Coupon
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTil5zUAGr0VG9YrzLT5MU7nr59tX8C0V8-DU8UMk@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTil5zUAGr0VG9YrzLT5MU7nr59tX8C0V8-DU8UMk@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <029a01cb05b0$fe4c7e40$fae57ac0$@net>

Having purchased from them both at their local store and on line, I get
emails almost weekly from the as well as a monthly catalog each with
coupons. Unfortunately, most of the coupons are item specific and normally
for items that I do not need.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 2:49 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Coupon

Buried way down in our Sunday paper today, in among all of those fall
out throw away ads, there was an insert that has coupons for food,
soap, etc. In among all that junk today, in our area at least, way an
ad for HF. One of the coupons in that ad was for 20% off any single
purchase, including sale items. My wife pointed it out, and I have
clipped it and put it into my billfold. Doesn't expire until Oct. 6.
If you have HF near, you might want to look as well. NFI.


Bob Johnson
BJ8

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Jun  6 13:58:04 2010
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 12:58:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <BAY147-w5D99744C41F88A0B7330AB8D40@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>, ,
	<4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org><BAY147-w559B18EBED3B8598497CEAB8D30@phx.gbl><84245FCFFB024874B69F281FAB9FD1B8@LeonardPCPC>,
	<4C0B04E6.2070805@justbrits.com>,
	<545A72CA347A4375B7CDE5525A7ACCA5@LeonardPCPC>
	<BAY147-w5D99744C41F88A0B7330AB8D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ADD6D5C8C1964FB5B7E15C6B03FED2BF@LeonardPCPC>

Our DMV director, George Valverde, answers questions in a column in our 
newspaper on a regular basis.  A question was asked, "Is it illegal to drive 
under the speed limit on the freeway...?  His answer, in part: "...DMV 
recommends operating your vehicle at a speed that is consistent with the 
normal and reasonable flow of traffic.  Make sure that your speed is 
compliant with the posted maximum speed limit.  If you are driving an a 
manner that can block or disrupt the normal flow of traffic, you can be 
issued a ticket".

Is that an oxymoron or what?  Now I have to find out which fine is cheaper - 
getting a speeding ticket for going with the flow at 75-80 mph or driving 
the posted 65 mph speed limit and getting a ticket for impeding the flow of 
traffic.

Like I don't have enough things to do around here!  That's enough from me on 
these subjects.  Back to Healeys!

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT


> When in Rome ...
>
>
> I once got stopped for going the speed limit.  I got told by the officer 
> to
> "go with the flow" and keep up to the traffic.  ( which is what I was 
> doing
> before I saw him creeping up on me. ;) )
>
>
> Robert
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>>
>> The complainer
>
> ...
>
>> he should have
>> spent a few minutes looking in the California Driver Handbook or the 
>> Vehicle
>> Code.
>>
>> (The Other) Len
>> Vacaville, CA, USA
>> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net 

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sun Jun  6 14:23:31 2010
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 20:23:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3-point belts for rear seats
In-Reply-To: <002301cb05a4$46cbfc20$d463f460$@rr.com>
References: <002301cb05a4$46cbfc20$d463f460$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT144-w2488D0648890C57212AD22D5D40@phx.gbl>

Hi Steve



Quickfit SBS in the uk make period 3 point belts, for kids they can also make
mini racing type harnesses. Not sure how you would fix them though without
using a hook an eye bolt on the rear bulkhead to let the hood raise and
lower??? Perhaps someone has a bright idea:



http://www.quickfitsbs.com/classic_cars_seatbelts.asp



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 14:28:59 2010
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:28:59 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Of the Healey List for several weeks
Message-ID: <1d67b.387444db.393d5f0b@aol.com>

Hi Rich-
 
I will be off the Healeys List for several weeks due to my cross  country 
trip to Eugene, Or for the AHCUSA Rendezvous. Then tour the Northwest  back 
across country to Galena, IL for the AHCA Conclave. 
My traveling companion William Borja and I  will be driving our  BJ8s, his 
is BRG and mine is Blackie. If you happen to see  us on the highways, please 
flash your headlights and/or blow your horn and  we will respond back.
If there are any Concours judges out there that are interested in judging  
at either of these events please contact me off line or by phone 
727/867-7129  before 6/12/10. 
 
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member 
Chairman Judging

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 14:57:26 2010
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:57:26 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Of the Healey List for several weeks
Message-ID: <1ebaf.61f0878a.393d65b6@aol.com>

Hi fellow Listers-
 
 
I will be off the Healeys List for several weeks due to my  cross country 
trip to Eugene, Or for the AHCUSA Rendezvous. Then tour the  Northwest back 
across country to Galena, IL for the AHCA Conclave. 
 
My traveling companion William Borja and I  will be  driving BJ8s, his is 
BRG and mine is Blackie. If you  happen to see us on the highways, please 
flash your headlights and/or blow  your horn and we will respond back.
 
If there are any Concours judges out there that are interested in  judging 
at either of these events please contact me off line or by phone  
727/867-7129 before 6/12/10. 
 
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member 
Chairman Judging

From insptwo at msn.com  Sun Jun  6 14:59:05 2010
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:59:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
In-Reply-To: <ADD6D5C8C1964FB5B7E15C6B03FED2BF@LeonardPCPC>
References: <BAY147-w2705F3D66625644F06A148B8D30@phx.gbl>, , ,
	<4C0A955A.9030005@htcnet.org><BAY147-w559B18EBED3B8598497CEAB8D30@phx.gbl><84245FCFFB024874B69F281FAB9FD1B8@LeonardPCPC>,
	, <4C0B04E6.2070805@justbrits.com>, ,
	<545A72CA347A4375B7CDE5525A7ACCA5@LeonardPCPC>,
	<BAY147-w5D99744C41F88A0B7330AB8D40@phx.gbl>,
	<ADD6D5C8C1964FB5B7E15C6B03FED2BF@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <COL109-W38E3DD9F68D48BCADBE7B3ADD40@phx.gbl>

That is as bad as driving thru downtown Atlanta on the interstate. I believe
that the posted speed is 55 MPH (those living in Atlanta can corrrect me if
I'm wrong). If you went 55, you would get killed, everyone seems to do at
least 65 to 70.

Bill

BJ7



 >
> Our DMV director, George Valverde, answers questions in a column in our
> newspaper on a regular basis. A question was asked, "Is it illegal to drive
> under the speed limit on the freeway...? His answer, in part: "...DMV
> recommends operating your vehicle at a speed that is consistent with the
> normal and reasonable flow of traffic. Make sure that your speed is
> compliant with the posted maximum speed limit. If you are driving an a
> manner that can block or disrupt the normal flow of traffic, you can be
> issued a ticket".
>
> Is that an oxymoron or what? Now I have to find out which fine is cheaper -
> getting a speeding ticket for going with the flow at 75-80 mph or driving
> the posted 65 mph speed limit and getting a ticket for impeding the flow of
> traffic.
>
> Like I don't have enough things to do around here! That's enough from me on
> these subjects. Back to Healeys!
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Sun Jun  6 16:53:39 2010
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 17:53:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Of the Healey List for several weeks
In-Reply-To: <1d67b.387444db.393d5f0b@aol.com>
References: <1d67b.387444db.393d5f0b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilPmM115zv_HpcI0g9kqDJ8OIcnotaqPgycl8G6@mail.gmail.com>

congrats on your big cross country journey.  don & joyce bundrant will be
making the journey from here and also plan on treking from eugene to
galena.  you need to get you an iphone where you can give us reports from
the road.  wish i could join you, however, some of us have to try and make a
living.  good luck!!
cheers,
jerry

On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 3:28 PM, <MBran89793 at aol.com> wrote:

> Hi Rich-
>
> I will be off the Healeys List for several weeks due to my cross  country
> trip to Eugene, Or for the AHCUSA Rendezvous. Then tour the Northwest  back
> across country to Galena, IL for the AHCA Conclave.
> My traveling companion William Borja and I  will be driving our  BJ8s, his
> is BRG and mine is Blackie. If you happen to see  us on the highways,
> please
> flash your headlights and/or blow your horn and  we will respond back.
> If there are any Concours judges out there that are interested in judging
> at either of these events please contact me off line or by phone
> 727/867-7129  before 6/12/10.
>
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> Concours Committee Member
> Chairman Judging
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 17:00:31 2010
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 19:00:31 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] I thought that this was amusing - NO LBC CONTENT
Message-ID: <2447c.56c031a4.393d828f@aol.com>

Try it in your Healey between 3:30 & 6:00 PM when you really want a  
thrill. Add a little rain and it really raises the stress factor.  
We have done this more than once in both directions.
 
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay AHC
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/6/2010 5:58:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
insptwo at msn.com writes:

That is  as bad as driving thru downtown Atlanta on the interstate. I 
believe
that  the posted speed is 55 MPH (those living in Atlanta can corrrect me if
I'm  wrong). If you went 55, you would get killed, everyone seems to do at
least  65 to 70.

Bill

BJ7



>
> Our DMV director,  George Valverde, answers questions in a column in our
> newspaper on a  regular basis. A question was asked, "Is it illegal to 
drive
> under the  speed limit on the freeway...? His answer, in part: "...DMV
> recommends  operating your vehicle at a speed that is consistent with the
> normal  and reasonable flow of traffic. Make sure that your speed is
> compliant  with the posted maximum speed limit. If you are driving an a
> manner  that can block or disrupt the normal flow of traffic, you can be
>  issued a ticket".
>
> Is that an oxymoron or what? Now I have to  find out which fine is 
cheaper -
> getting a speeding ticket for going  with the flow at 75-80 mph or driving
> the posted 65 mph speed limit  and getting a ticket for impeding the flow 
of
> traffic.
>
>  Like I don't have enough things to do around here! That's enough from me 
 on
> these subjects. Back to Healeys!
>
> (The Other)  Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII,  HBJ8L39031
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun  6 17:07:39 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 19:07:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #2
References: <8CCD3975536DD64-3C68-C8DF@Webmail-d105.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001c01cb05cd$0fcf4eb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I got my pressure gauge  from Bill Bolton and it screws right into the valve 
hole. It is glycerin filled. Works great.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <warthodson at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 9:57 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem #2


>A friend's BN7 overdrive won't engage. The electrical system is operating
> correctly. Initially, the alignment lever did not appear to be precisely
> aligned with the alignment hole, so we adjusted that per the manual, but 
> that
> did not fix it. Next, we went for a drive with the tunnel off & when the
> overdrive solenoid was activated we pushed the alignment lever farther 
> down by
> hand to see if that would cause it to engage. It did not. The overdrive 
> has 30
> Wt. non-detergent oil in it.  What are some of the possible causes for 
> this?
> Our club is going to invest in a pressure gage. Where can we purchase one 
> with
> the correct fittings, etc.? What tests can we perform with the overdrive 
> in
> place to isolate the cause of the problem? I am reasonably sure the 
> overdrive
> cannot be removed without also pulling the transmission, but like to 
> confirm
> that.
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  6 17:41:45 2010
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:41:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Dakar 2010 - great pictures !!!
Message-ID: <445142.47328.qm@web83908.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Didn't see and Healeys but still interesting


B 
B 
B 
B 
Subject:B Dakar
2010 - great pictures !!!
B 







o;?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd]

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sun Jun  6 20:44:15 2010
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 02:44:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483F6@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>,
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>,
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E5@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>,
	<303ACF77-6959-474F-8FA0-CC2FBBA1407E@gmail.com>,
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483F6@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>
Message-ID: <COL106-W4D4C5F001D78CFEAFB84EC0D50@phx.gbl>

Sorry Chris. I just checked the number on my BJ8 cylinder head. It is AEC 960.
If it were different than earlier 3000 heads, it would have a different part
number. It is the same as earlier heads.  The BJ8s had a new cam with more
overlap than any of the earlier cams. I suspect this is the reason for a
different ignition advance spec.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon




> From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
> To: austin.healey at gmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 13:50:21 +0200
> Subject: [Healeys]  External differences of six cylinder engines
>
> Hi Chris,
> here I am not with you. All 3000 heads are the same casting, casting number
> AEC 960, except the early ones with the opening for the thermo choke
sensor.
> Josef Eckert
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 12:19
> An: Eckert, Josef
> Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Betreff: Re: AW: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
>
> Hi Josef,
> Happy to be corrected, but I'm not understanding the differences you cite.
> I've seen 2 different 12port head castings - as i said, the area around the
> thermostat/ temp sensor.
> The BJ8 head is different to all the earlier 12 port heads.
> The unseen difference is the BJ8 head spark plug seat is too far away from
the
> combustion chamber, by over 100 thou.
> That's why a BJ8 has vastly different ignition timing to any other 3 litre
> Healey engine.
> Look at the ignition specs.
> Bj8 heads are different. Not sure of your other 2 points
>
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 06/06/2010, at 5:19 PM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:
>
> > Chris,
> > I need to correct you. There are 3 different 12 port head castings.
> > 1 The early one without the "nose" for the late 100/6s
> > 2 The one for the Thermo-Choke on early 3000s
> > 3 The "nose" one following the Thermo-Choke one on 3000 Mk1 to Mk3.
> >
> > Josef Eckert
> > Konigswinter/Germany
> >
> > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> > bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Chris Dimmock
> > Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 04:17
> > An: Derek Job
> > Cc: Forum
> > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
> >
> > T

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jun  7 00:26:28 2010
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 02:26:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CCD4217F4B339D-11A0-B0D1@Webmail-d122.sysops.aol.com>

Derek
Number on the IC block is AEC 335 cast predominately into the left side
of the block 6 inches back and three inches higher than the location of
the aluminum engine number tag.
Aloha
Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
To: Forum <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jun 5, 2010 2:44 am
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines

Hi guys
Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines that
would allow you to identify one as being either
an IC (100-Six, Integral head)
or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
or 29D (3000)
thanks
Derek

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Jun  7 05:12:27 2010
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 21:12:27 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W4D4C5F001D78CFEAFB84EC0D50@phx.gbl>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>,
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>,
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E5@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>,
	<303ACF77-6959-474F-8FA0-CC2FBBA1407E@gmail.com>,
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483F6@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>
	<COL106-W4D4C5F001D78CFEAFB84EC0D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A32794F3-A199-4A3E-88CC-626EEE015527@gmail.com>

Hi Richard & Josef,

Ok. My Bj8 head is also AEC 960.
I thought (obviously incorrectly) that the AEC 960 was specific to the  
BJ8

My comment about the ignition timing on a BJ8 was the reason I thought  
the AEC 960 casting was specific to the BJ8. Ive only seen the BJ8  
spark plug seat depth issue on AEC 960 heads from BJ8s.

Let me do some more research and I'll post the results. I suspect the  
BJ8 issue is a machining issue, rather than a casting issue.

Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/06/2010, at 12:44 PM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>  
wrote:

> Sorry Chris. I just checked the number on my BJ8 cylinder head. It  
> is AEC 960. If it were different than earlier 3000 heads, it would  
> have a different part number. It is the same as earlier heads.  The  
> BJ8s had a new cam with more overlap than any of the earlier cams. I  
> suspect this is the reason for a different ignition advance spec.
>
> Richard Mayor

> > From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
> > To: austin.healey at gmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 13:50:21 +0200
> > Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
> >
> > Hi Chris,
> > here I am not with you. All 3000 heads are the same casting,  
> casting number
> > AEC 960, except the early ones with the opening for the thermo  
> choke sensor.
> > Josef Eckert
> >
> > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> > Von: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com]
> > Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. Juni 2010 12:19
> > An: Eckert, Josef
> > Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Betreff: Re: AW: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder  
> engines
> >
> > Hi Josef,
> > Happy to be corrected, but I'm not understanding the differences  
> you cite.
> > I've seen 2 different 12port head castings - as i said, the area  
> around the
> > thermostat/ temp sensor.
> > The BJ8 head is different to all the earlier 12 port heads.
> > The unseen difference is the BJ8 head spark plug seat is too far  
> away from the
> > combustion chamber, by over 100 thou.
> > That's why a BJ8 has vastly different ignition timing to any other  
> 3 litre
> > Healey engine.
> > Look at the ignition specs.
> > Bj8 heads are different. Not sure of your other 2 points
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > On 06/06/2010, at 5:19 PM, <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Chris,
> > > I need to correct you. There are 3 different 12 port head  
> castings.
> > > 1 The early one without the "nose" for the late 100/6s
> > > 2 The one for the Thermo-Choke on early 3000s
> > > 3 The "nose" one following the Thermo-Choke one on 3000 Mk1 to Mk3

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Mon Jun  7 06:03:26 2010
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 07:03:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Of the Healey List for several weeks
In-Reply-To: <220f5.1f95e520.393dba0a@aol.com>
References: <220f5.1f95e520.393dba0a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil5mcpmOTd2e4QoGdlpdYBCnmmS4AtztXGukJxw@mail.gmail.com>

if i was along, just to show you i'm a nice guy, i'd crack the sidescreens
and give you a whiff of refrigerated Healey air.
speaking of the return from utah in '97, that was two transmision repairs
ago.  i limped home with only3 and 4 plus od.  rebuilt with remfg laygear
that lasted over 10 years.  over past xmas replaced 100-6 trans with rebuilt
3000 sideshift.  again, best wishes for a great and safe journey !!!!!
cheers,
jerry

On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 9:57 PM, <MBran89793 at aol.com> wrote:

>  Wish you could join us too. Might bring back some memories of the return
> trip from Park City, UT in 1997. Damn has it really been that long ago?
> "Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved
> body but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out shouting "holy
> shit....what a ride!"
>
>  In a message dated 6/6/2010 6:53:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com writes:
>
> wish i could join you, however, some of us have to try and make a living.
>
>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Jun  7 08:18:46 2010
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 10:18:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <A32794F3-A199-4A3E-88CC-626EEE015527@gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>, ,
	<F2F4932D-1A90-4647-83CF-9C868F5CE4B4@gmail.com>, ,
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483E5@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>,
	, <303ACF77-6959-474F-8FA0-CC2FBBA1407E@gmail.com>, ,
	<50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011A89B483F6@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>,
	<COL106-W4D4C5F001D78CFEAFB84EC0D50@phx.gbl>,
	<A32794F3-A199-4A3E-88CC-626EEE015527@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W4025CCD5591632370A8BADADD50@phx.gbl>

As far as external differences, how about the location of the dip stick.

Bill

BJ7

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Jun  7 08:45:22 2010
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 14:45:22 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?motor_differences?=
Message-ID: <20100607144522.4306.qmail@server278.com>

what motor type first blanked over the mechanical fuel pump opening?  i thought bj8 but not sure.  hjim

From michael at mcassociatesinc.com  Mon Jun  7 09:12:29 2010
From: michael at mcassociatesinc.com (Michael Couch)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 11:12:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
Message-ID: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>

I need to replace the rear shocks on my BN2 100M.  Mounting holes are worn
but work well otherwise.  Any suggestions on the best source for Armstrong
levers?  Anyone had experience with Apple Hydraulics in Calverton, NY?

 

Mike

Pittsburgh 

BN2 100M

AN2

AN7

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Jun  7 09:20:29 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 11:20:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dunrite - Don Lenschow
Message-ID: <006901cb0654$f7350e20$e59f2a60$@net>

I just had an email exchange with Don's wife in which she said that there is
still stock available and that she is filling orders until the stock is
depleted. Some great stuff on the web site.

http://www.dunritetool.com/index.html


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun  7 09:27:29 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 08:27:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] motor differences
In-Reply-To: <20100607144522.4306.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20100607144522.4306.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4C0D0FE1.2030703@comcast.net>

Our BN2 engine has a blanked-out mechanical fuel pump opening.

bs

healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote:
> what motor type first blanked over the mechanical fuel pump opening?  i thought bj8 but not sure.  hjim
>
>
>
>   

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From jpayne at ThorCon.net  Mon Jun  7 09:35:18 2010
From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 08:35:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Jag 150 update
In-Reply-To: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
References: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
Message-ID: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BBBA0A6A@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>

Took the Jag out for a couple drives in 100+ degree temperature over the
weekend.


1)      It didn't overheat - stayed between 90 and 100.

2)      The car was cantankerous to warm up, even in the heat.   We allowed
the car to warm up to 80 degrees, before attempting to move it.  It took about
a mile to warm up to 90 degrees, at which point, the sputtering would stop,
but the car would not rev beyond 3000 rpm.  After another  5 minutes of
running, the car would rev beyond 3000 rpm up to about 4200, but no further.

3)      In any event, the car pulls smoothly and without hesitation, but
without the sense of urgency I would expect for such a large and powerful
engine.

The guy who checked the car out for me did not indicate these problems on his
test drive, in fact quite the opposite,  he indicated that it ran "very
strong".  I would not characterize the running as "very strong"

The car was purchased near sea level.  Las Vegas is at 3000 feet above.  High
test gas where the car was purchased is 97 octane, our high test is 91.   I am
thinking that there is a timing adjustment necessary, but the cantankerousness
unless the car was "hot" also bothers me.

Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084



________________________________
"This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the
use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to
solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor
Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and
any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability
for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email."

From jpayne at ThorCon.net  Mon Jun  7 09:50:28 2010
From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 08:50:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
In-Reply-To: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
References: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
Message-ID: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BBBA0A79@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>

I have had excellent experience with Apple.  I have used them now on multiple
occasions.

Lazaar (sp?) is a good guy and knows his stuff.

Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


"This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the
use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.  If you have
received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
and delete all copies from your system.  It is not the intent of the sender to
solicit any person or business.  Please note that any opinions in this email
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor
Construction, Incorporated.  Finally, the recipient should check this email
and any attachments for the presence of viruses.  The company accepts no
liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this
email."

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Mon Jun  7 09:59:28 2010
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 08:59:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Off topic but worth a look see
Message-ID: <542342.74957.qm@web32904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Here is the finest example of someone that obviously has way too much time on
his hands.  Be sure to read the description at the top of the page before
playing the video.
 
http://tinyurl.com/2d6hvr4
 
Ron Mitchell

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Jun  7 10:26:07 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 10:26:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Jag 150 update
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BBBA0A6A@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <004601caffee$5c29e7f0$147db7d0$@net>
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BBBA0A6A@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <6F902F4DD9064593AF316C4C81BE04ED@oscar>

All symptoms point to a still too lean mixture.
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 9:35 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey - Jag 150 update

Took the Jag out for a couple drives in 100+ degree temperature over the
weekend.


1)      It didn't overheat - stayed between 90 and 100.

2)      The car was cantankerous to warm up, even in the heat.   We allowed
the car to warm up to 80 degrees, before attempting to move it.  It took
about
a mile to warm up to 90 degrees, at which point, the sputtering would stop,
but the car would not rev beyond 3000 rpm.  After another  5 minutes of
running, the car would rev beyond 3000 rpm up to about 4200, but no further.

3)      In any event, the car pulls smoothly and without hesitation, but
without the sense of urgency I would expect for such a large and powerful
engine.

The guy who checked the car out for me did not indicate these problems on
his
test drive, in fact quite the opposite,  he indicated that it ran "very
strong".  I would not characterize the running as "very strong"

The car was purchased near sea level.  Las Vegas is at 3000 feet above.
High
test gas where the car was purchased is 97 octane, our high test is 91.   I
am
thinking that there is a timing adjustment necessary, but the
cantankerousness
unless the car was "hot" also bothers me.

Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084



________________________________
"This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the
use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have
received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender
to
solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of
Thor
Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email
and
any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no
liability
for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email."
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Mon Jun  7 10:39:29 2010
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 18:39:29 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] D-Day
In-Reply-To: <BAY147-w490EDE57AE22A31C6ADCE5B8D50@phx.gbl>
References: <3016846.480941275836234809.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>
	<BAY147-w490EDE57AE22A31C6ADCE5B8D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C0D20C1.7060605@club-internet.fr>

Here you are Robert,

http://picasaweb.google.com/JagXK120/HonfleurOmahaBeach#

It was a Jaguar rallye to Honfleur and the D-Day beaches.
Mine is the XK120 at the far left end.
Honfleur must be a name that rings a bell to canadians...

B


robertduquette at sympatico.ca a icrit :
> We don't get to see that picture.
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg
>  
>
>
>
>
> > From: bcrist at club-internet.fr
> > To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:57:14 +0200
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] D-Day
> >
> > Last time I was there.
> > Respect.
> > B
> >
> > > Take a moment today to remember those who returned to start the 
> LBC hobby ... and those that never got the chance.
> > >
> > > Rick
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a 
> name of IMG_0894.jpg]
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca

From britcrs at gmail.com  Mon Jun  7 10:57:10 2010
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 09:57:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BBBA0A79@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BBBA0A79@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikKoHE3K8lHOICEtWbJAHAQOOaFSUw9cavYmtTf@mail.gmail.com>

I have had mixed results with Apple Hydraulics. I have had excellent results
with Worldwide Auto Parts in Madison Wisconsin and they come with an
excellent warrantee.

http://www.nosimport.com/

Marv J

On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Jonas Payne <jpayne at thorcon.net> wrote:

> I have had excellent experience with Apple.  I have used them now on
> multiple
> occasions.
>
> Lazaar (sp?) is a good guy and knows his stuff.
>
> Jonas Payne
> Director of Preconstruction
> Thor Construction
> PH:    (702) 269-2007
> Fax:   (702) 269-7095
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
> "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for
> the
> use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.  If you have
> received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
> and delete all copies from your system.  It is not the intent of the sender
> to
> solicit any person or business.  Please note that any opinions in this
> email
> are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of
> Thor
> Construction, Incorporated.  Finally, the recipient should check this email
> and any attachments for the presence of viruses.  The company accepts no
> liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this
> email."
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Jun  7 11:10:17 2010
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 10:10:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Preferred Route?
Message-ID: <186057B9804A43CE8EA584AD9C7C662E@LeonardPCPC>

For Listers in the Oregon area.  What would be the recommended route to get 
from US-101 to Eugene considering scenery, traffic, road condition, etc? 
Reedsport to I-5 via SR-38 or Florence to Eugene via SR-126?  Other?

TIA

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Mon Jun  7 11:21:46 2010
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 13:21:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
References: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
Message-ID: <D67336C854614B21B7E538D6D2FB7AD3@atc0f226cd3237>

I had a great deal from Apple on my brake calipers.  Good guys to work with.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Couch" <michael at mcassociatesinc.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 11:12 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics


>I need to replace the rear shocks on my BN2 100M.  Mounting holes are worn
> but work well otherwise.  Any suggestions on the best source for Armstrong
> levers?  Anyone had experience with Apple Hydraulics in Calverton, NY?
>
>
>
> Mike


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Mon Jun  7 11:24:19 2010
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 13:24:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
In-Reply-To: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
References: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
Message-ID: <4C0D2B43.6000108@comcast.net>

Apple has some problems occasionally.  The best choice is World Wide 
Auto Parts http://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm
They are the best.



Michael Couch wrote:
> I need to replace the rear shocks on my BN2 100M.  Mounting holes are worn
> but work well otherwise.  Any suggestions on the best source for Armstrong
> levers?  Anyone had experience with Apple Hydraulics in Calverton, NY?
>
>  
>
> Mike
>
> Pittsburgh 
>
> BN2 100M
>
> AN2
>
> AN7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From geatros at shaw.ca  Mon Jun  7 11:43:26 2010
From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 10:43:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Set of Fibergalss Fenders plus one LR NOS $1000
Message-ID: <F82E15B1-3A11-4F2F-BD7C-A4D393BCBEA8@shaw.ca>

Hi,
Anyone in the Vnacouver BC area  need a set of used Healey fiberglass  
fenders plus one new old stock never installed 5 fenders in  
total  ..... $1000
Thanks
Kenny 

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Jun  7 13:42:12 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 15:42:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] D-Day
In-Reply-To: <4C0D20C1.7060605@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <20100607154212.BD1ZO.139533.root@pamxwww01-z01>

I, and 13 other Healey owners drove to Honfleur in 01.  Beautiful little town!

Spent the night at an inn up a hill from downtown--that's all I remember except the food was GREAT>

tom

---- Bernard Cristalli <bcrist at club-internet.fr> wrote: 

=============
Here you are Robert,

http://picasaweb.google.com/JagXK120/HonfleurOmahaBeach#

It was a Jaguar rallye to Honfleur and the D-Day beaches.
Mine is the XK120 at the far left end.
Honfleur must be a name that rings a bell to canadians...

B


robertduquette at sympatico.ca a icrit :
> We don't get to see that picture.
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg
>  
>
>
>
>
> > From: bcrist at club-internet.fr
> > To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:57:14 +0200
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] D-Day
> >
> > Last time I was there.
> > Respect.
> > B
> >
> > > Take a moment today to remember those who returned to start the 
> LBC hobby ... and those that never got the chance.
> > >
> > > Rick
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a 
> name of IMG_0894.jpg]
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Jun  7 14:24:08 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 15:24:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
In-Reply-To: <4C0D2B43.6000108@comcast.net>
References: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
	<4C0D2B43.6000108@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C0D5568.9090707@justbrits.com>

Drat Charlie, YOU beat me to it <G> !!!

<< Apple has some problems occasionally. >>

Basic UNDERSTATEMENT in my experience. <F>

<< The best choice is World Wide Auto Parts 
http://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm

They are the best. >>

ABSOLUTELY and WITHOUT a doubt !!!  AND Peter's
shox re-builts come with a Limited Life-time Warrantee !!
I will NOT use or sell any other ones !!
Ed

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[especially Big Healey stuff !! ]

From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Mon Jun  7 14:44:21 2010
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 21:44:21 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] URGENT FRED HUNTER'S CAR
Message-ID: <4C0D5A25.5070502@summaventures.com>

If any of the listers have acquired Fred's 100s aka NOJ 393 aka "Millie"
will you please contact me.

Peter Dzwig

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Jun  7 15:34:09 2010
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 14:34:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] URGENT FRED HUNTER'S CAR
In-Reply-To: <4C0D5A25.5070502@summaventures.com>
References: <4C0D5A25.5070502@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikkOdPZXkt4Lr23dP7lLIqETZA2xeyZeSDZ-pjP@mail.gmail.com>

Peter,

The last I heard, it was purchased by the "Healey Werks" several years ago.
Was it sold again recently?

C

On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 1:44 PM, Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>wrote:

> If any of the listers have acquired Fred's 100s aka NOJ 393 aka "Millie"
> will you please contact me.
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> --
>
> ===========================================================
> Dr Peter Dzwig
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From wpollock at inbox.com  Mon Jun  7 17:21:14 2010
From: wpollock at inbox.com (wpollock@inbox)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 19:21:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
References: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
Message-ID: <5B37B04583CF4F14A01112B75F1EB9C9@saybrook1>

Apple did all four of mind back in '99.  Have about 6000 miles on them and
they operate fine. No leaks. Back than,they took about a month to six weeks
as I remember.

Bill Pollock
100-6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Couch" <michael at mcassociatesinc.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 11:12 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics


>I need to replace the rear shocks on my BN2 100M.  Mounting holes are worn
> but work well otherwise.  Any suggestions on the best source for Armstrong
> levers?  Anyone had experience with Apple Hydraulics in Calverton, NY?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Pittsburgh
>
> BN2 100M
>
> AN2
>
> AN7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wpollock at inbox.com
>

____________________________________________________________
Publish your photos in seconds for FREE
TRY IM TOOLPACK at http://www.imtoolpack.com/default.aspx?rc=if4

From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Mon Jun  7 17:22:31 2010
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 18:22:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] URGENT FRED HUNTER'S CAR
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikkOdPZXkt4Lr23dP7lLIqETZA2xeyZeSDZ-pjP@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4C0D5A25.5070502@summaventures.com>
	<AANLkTikkOdPZXkt4Lr23dP7lLIqETZA2xeyZeSDZ-pjP@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002701cb0698$4fc928d0$ef5b7a70$@com>

Curt Arndt wrote: "Was it sold again recently?"

I don't think so, we are planning for it to be one of our special "Guest
Healeys" at Conclave in July.  Healey Werks other 100 S #3706 is undergoing
restoration and will be at Conclave also.  

We are planning a exceptional tech session in which Craig Hillinger will
discuss the differences between these two historic Healeys, one, (actually
designated NOJ 391) a unique factory special test car, will be compared to
their other "production" spec 100 S.  These two special cars will also be
compared to a production 100 to show the differences to the cars that came
off the line at Longbridge.

Conclave attendees will be able to see and examine in close detail these
cars during Craig's presentation, a rare opportunity to be sure.

On Monday, these two 100 S cars will be two of the headliners out of almost
two hundred other beautiful Austin-Healeys that will line the closed Main
Street of historic Galena, Illinois for the Popularity Show.  

There is still time to join the fun.  Visit
http://www.austinhealeyconclave.com/

Neil Anderson
Conclave 2010 Organizing Committee



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Curt/Nancy Arndt
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 4:34 PM
To: pdzwig at summaventures.com
Cc: Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] URGENT FRED HUNTER'S CAR

Peter,

The last I heard, it was purchased by the "Healey Werks" several years ago.
Was it sold again recently?

C

On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 1:44 PM, Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>wrote:

> If any of the listers have acquired Fred's 100s aka NOJ 393 aka "Millie"
> will you please contact me.
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> --
>
> ===========================================================
> Dr Peter Dzwig
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun  7 18:14:46 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 20:14:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
References: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
Message-ID: <000c01cb069f$9abe7190$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Yes it took them 3 tries to get me a good pair, 8 years ago for my MGA.  And 
nobody paid me for the labor each time.

Try World Wide Auto parts.   Send a big letter telling him EXACTLY  what you 
want cause he don't read so good cause he did not send my shocks back that I 
specifically asked to be rebuilt and returned to me, in a letter.  But so 
far what they sent are holding up, even though they looked like crap (pitted 
up)and the fresh paint stuck to the shipping material inside the box.   So I 
just repainted them myself and try not to look too closely at the pits.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Couch" <michael at mcassociatesinc.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 11:12 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics


>I need to replace the rear shocks on my BN2 100M.  Mounting holes are worn
> but work well otherwise.  Any suggestions on the best source for Armstrong
> levers?  Anyone had experience with Apple Hydraulics in Calverton, NY?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Pittsburgh
>
> BN2 100M
>
> AN2
>
> AN7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Jun  7 18:45:54 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 17:45:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Preferred Route?
Message-ID: <4c0d92c3.0f978e0a.57a5.ffffbaca@mx.google.com>

Both are great can't go wrong either way

-----Original Message-----
From: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 10:10 AM
To: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Preferred Route?

For Listers in the Oregon area.  What would be the recommended route to get
from US-101 to Eugene considering scenery, traffic, road condition, etc?
Reedsport to I-5 via SR-38 or Florence to Eugene via SR-126?  Other?

TIA

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From RCT2BNC at aol.com  Mon Jun  7 19:29:43 2010
From: RCT2BNC at aol.com (RCT2BNC at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 21:29:43 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Timing for 948 Bugeye
Message-ID: <790bb.1826034f.393ef707@aol.com>

Can anyone tell me the Dynamic Timing for a 948 cc Bugeye? The manuals are  
mum on that. Static is 5 deg BTDC.
Thanks,
Ben Cohen
Tucson, AZ
2 Bugeyes...

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Mon Jun  7 19:39:27 2010
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 18:39:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] URGENT FRED HUNTER'S CAR
Message-ID: <506774.34100.qm@web83909.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Craig Hillinger <craig at healeywerks.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] URGENT FRED HUNTER'S CAR

Nope...not for sale...and he calls it NOJ 393....its....NOJ 391...and 3804 has not been Fred Hunters car for a while now....


I supppose its possible that NOJ 393 could have been sold...but as far as I know it is still in England aand not for sale either. My other car 3706 is for sale though....

Thanks, 
Craig Hillinger
......................................... 



Curt Arndt wrote: "Was it sold again recently?"




> If any of the listers have acquired Fred's 100s aka NOJ 393 aka "Millie"
> will you please contact me.
>
> Peter Dzwig

From acmiller at mhcable.com  Tue Jun  8 03:54:46 2010
From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 05:54:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] TOP DEAD CENTER
Message-ID: <C07936AF59614FE383D720CFD7464E7E@ACM030>

My engine builder taught me a failsafe method for finding top dead center with
(literally) 'dead nutaccuracy'. I have posted a description and photos on the
Healey Forum maintained by team.net.

I am surprised more listers do not use this forum. there have been scant few
postings over the last month. it is maintained by the same web server, and
provides a secure means of sharing photographs. It is also free of the
wrangles of 'plaint text' encryption inherent in the main list.

signup is easy. register by clicking the hyperlink in the upper right hand
corner at http://www.team.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=13

allen miller bn2/m

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  8 04:13:44 2010
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 03:13:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] show
Message-ID: <896502.6071.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

anyone going to the show in ho-ho-cus this sat at the hermitage

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Jun  8 06:07:26 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 8:07:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] show
In-Reply-To: <896502.6071.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100608080727.305LJ.89346.root@pamxwww06-z01>

Will you be taking the missis---Jane?   Sorry, couldn't resist------why not tell us your real name---and--if John Doe is your real name--my appologies.

Tom Felts
---- john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
anyone going to the show in ho-ho-cus this sat at the hermitage
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 06:21:10 2010
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 08:21:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/World Wide Auto Parts
In-Reply-To: <5B37B04583CF4F14A01112B75F1EB9C9@saybrook1>
References: <3C752A2E32334EA99DC105BF01DDA06B@MCOUCHOFFICE>
	<5B37B04583CF4F14A01112B75F1EB9C9@saybrook1>
Message-ID: <4C0E35B6.1090300@comcast.net>

Here is what Worldwide does to your shocks:


*How World Wide Approaches Rebuilding Lever Shocks*

First. What fails in a lever shock? Almost all of the (non-traumatic) 
failures result from lack of oil in the shock. The manuals always 
recommend Checking or topping-up your shox in various intervals 3000 
miles or so. Why? Because they leak!.. what a surprise! They dont leak 
just because they are British, they leak by design (now theres a bumper 
sticker). Speaking here of the rear shox... the shaft that protrudes 
from the body of the shock is rotating in the body without a bearing. To 
ensure sufficient lubrication there is often a channel or groove in the 
shaft bore. At the outside there is a rubber packing retained by a thin 
metal washer. A packing needs some lubrication to work at all and the 
weeping of oil acts as a deterrent to dirt getting in. Dirt getting in 
will score the shaft at the seal area hastening the demise of the 
packing and wearing the bearing surface in the body.

The solution that all of us rebuilders use is to machine the body and 
install a bearing. We use Delrin, others use bronze. Bronze requires 
oil, Delrin doesnt. We also machine the body for a rotary oil seal 
(others dont) (in fact we use a double lip seal with dust excluder). 
One guy does use a rotary single lip seal and the others use several 
rubber washers held in place with a steel washer or two. To solve the 
pitted and scored shaft problem, others sand or grind the shaft down 
(you dont need to be precise with rubber washers) We have manufactured 
for us, to our specs, stainless steel sleeves that allows us to have a 3 
micron finish and consistent diameter and concentricity of the shaft. 
After many years, we have found this to be very reliable. Our shox dont 
leak.

The process... step by step. Receive grimy old shock, tumble clean in a 
deburring/tumble cleaner. Glass bead blast entire shock. Disassemble. 
Tumble and hot wash internals. Bead blast the rest of the arm. Machine 
for the bearing and for the seal. Wash again. Press in bearing and seal. 
Press on sleeve. Inspect and repair/replace as necessary the pistons and 
the valving. Reassemble components using all new hardware of proper 
thread and style. Fill with oil and bleed. Compare valving with NOS 
shock, adjust if necessary. Wash AGAIN. Paint 2 coats primer and 3 coats 
high heat black enamel. Date code and ship.

There you have it.
Peter Caldwell president. 800 362-1025

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 06:58:34 2010
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 08:58:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] And now for something completely different
Message-ID: <4C0E3E7A.1050309@comcast.net>

This popped up on Bring A Trailer -- an eBay listing for a '54 100. It has an 
interesting color, especially the steering wheel.

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140414549193>

I hate to admit it, but I kinda like it.

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From edriver at sasktel.net  Tue Jun  8 07:28:36 2010
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 07:28:36 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] TOP DEAD CENTER
In-Reply-To: <C07936AF59614FE383D720CFD7464E7E@ACM030>
References: <C07936AF59614FE383D720CFD7464E7E@ACM030>
Message-ID: <4C0E4584.2060104@sasktel.net>

Hi Alan

Thanks for posting this idea.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'53 BN1, '65 BJ8

allen c miller jr wrote:
> My engine builder taught me a failsafe method for finding top dead center with
> (literally) 'dead nutaccuracy'. I have posted a description and photos on the
> Healey Forum maintained by team.net.
>
> I am surprised more listers do not use this forum. there have been scant few
> postings over the last month. it is maintained by the same web server, and
> provides a secure means of sharing photographs. It is also free of the
> wrangles of 'plaint text' encryption inherent in the main list.
>
> signup is easy. register by clicking the hyperlink in the upper right hand
> corner at http://www.team.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=13
>
> allen miller bn2/m

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Tue Jun  8 08:35:23 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 14:35:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] And now for something completely different
In-Reply-To: <4C0E3E7A.1050309@comcast.net>
References: <4C0E3E7A.1050309@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w22CD1A8D72074E0E1CDCCBB8D60@phx.gbl>

Well, I really like it.  If you give me the money, I would be proud to buy it
and bring it home.  I , uh, might have to change the steering wheel.
One thing that I find odd, is that bring a trailer has a picture that ebay
doesn't have.  Ebay only has one picture?  Or am I being blocked from seeing
more?  ( always a possibility. )

Robert Duquette

Ottawa ON Canada

1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )

1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )

1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen
)http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg






> Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 08:58:34 -0400
> From: kentmclean at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] And now for something completely different
>
> This popped up on Bring A Trailer -- an eBay listing for a '54 100. It has
an
> interesting color, especially the steering wheel.
>
>
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140414549193>
>
> I hate to admit it, but I kinda like it.
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> _______________________________________________

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Tue Jun  8 09:14:05 2010
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 11:14:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] And now for something completely different
In-Reply-To: <BAY147-w22CD1A8D72074E0E1CDCCBB8D60@phx.gbl>
References: <4C0E3E7A.1050309@comcast.net>
	<BAY147-w22CD1A8D72074E0E1CDCCBB8D60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C0E5E3D.7060807@comcast.net>

On 06/08/2010 10:35 AM, robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Well, I really like it. If you give me the money, I would be proud to
> buy it and bring it home. I , uh, might have to change the steering wheel.
>
> One thing that I find odd, is that bring a trailer has a picture that
> ebay doesn't have. Ebay only has one picture? Or am I being blocked from
> seeing more? ( always a possibility. )

eBay has lots of pictures; they're large, so maybe it's taking time to load.

I found the colo(u)r scheme different. This one I thought was tastefully done. 
Even the not-black steering struck me as keeping with the theme.  The whole look 
reminded me of the Packard Caribbean of the '50s, which had color schemes that 
were aimed at the more feminine eye.

I wouldn't do it to my car, but I like that this one has a unique look. Of 
course, it would lose points with the concours judges.

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From ampole at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  8 09:19:00 2010
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 15:19:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] cup holder
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilCo514aV6u8TvtlrsrKmdgjRzuWo3g7MUwS5oa@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0E29B18AC3874E2AA79DB7C8AEC1530E@RubinoPC>,
	<AANLkTily-wzE-RhqMZVQTzrtSkkJiV55pO0nA2H0QUoo@mail.gmail.com>,
	<SNT144-w1469DCEBFD09C4BD191A2DD5D30@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTimG_rwbLTNEyhW157nzPLefdQUyFvS4Zi2BDIJo@mail.gmail.com>,
	<SNT144-w44DEFB37593987A63475F2D5D50@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTilCo514aV6u8TvtlrsrKmdgjRzuWo3g7MUwS5oa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT144-w2637732091310765AB98AAD5D60@phx.gbl>

For Ric and the list



Roger's reply on the cupholder:

Hi Andy,
The cup holder in my car is an older design from VW. The current one looks
similar, and is a better design. Current part number 1J0 858 601D.
Roger



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/
We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us
now

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  8 09:21:09 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 08:21:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] External differences of six cylinder engines
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimPGoOA3sLpKZYh_cKDjGqIdCRm-vscCIXPus5h@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9EB2AAA5-049D-466F-838B-7138E6DC1FF0@sbcglobal.net>

It is easy to tell the difference
	IC motor the id tag is back about 4" from the front engine plate
	26D motor has dished core plugs
	29D motor has cupped core plugs



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 5, 2010, at 5:44 AM, Derek Job wrote:

> Hi guys
>
> Are there any external differences between the six cylinder engines  
> that
> would allow you to identify one as being either
>
> an IC  (100-Six, Integral head)
> or 26 D (100-Six, six port inlet)
> or 29D (3000)
>
>
> thanks
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Tue Jun  8 10:44:11 2010
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 18:44:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] D-Day
In-Reply-To: <BAY147-w3899C8BB3EB589CA631536B8D60@phx.gbl>
References: <3016846.480941275836234809.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>,
	<BAY147-w490EDE57AE22A31C6ADCE5B8D50@phx.gbl>,
	<4C0D20C1.7060605@club-internet.fr>
	<BAY147-w3899C8BB3EB589CA631536B8D60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C0E735B.5000201@club-internet.fr>

Honfleur is not really related with the D-Day.
It was a place where the explorers and pioneers came from and went to 
Canada in the XVIth century.
B

robertduquette at sympatico.ca a icrit :
> Thanks!
>
> Looks like you like to be different.  Every other Jag is an E!  :)
>
> I have a bad memory.  It takes alot to ring my bell.  Usually, in any 
> stories that I hear/watch, they name the beaches ( Juno ).
>
> It looks like that's where the memorials are.
>  
>
> > Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 18:39:29 +0200
> > From: bcrist at club-internet.fr
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] D-Day
> >
> > Here you are Robert,
> >
> > http://picasaweb.google.com/JagXK120/HonfleurOmahaBeach#
> >
> > It was a Jaguar rallye to Honfleur and the D-Day beaches.
> > Mine is the XK120 at the far left end.
> > Honfleur must be a name that rings a bell to canadians...
> >
> > B
> >
> >
> > robertduquette at sympatico.ca a icrit :
> > > We don't get to see that picture.
> > >
> > > Robert Duquette
> > > Ottawa ON Canada
> > > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> > > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> > > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
> > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > From: bcrist at club-internet.fr
> > > > To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > > Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:57:14 +0200
> > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] D-Day
> > > >
> > > > Last time I was there.
> > > > Respect.
> > > > B
> > > >
> > > > > Take a moment today to remember those who returned to start the
> > > LBC hobby ... and those that never got the chance.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rick
> > > >
> > > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a
> > > name of IMG_0894.jpg]
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  8 12:31:49 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 11:31:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <589880.56665.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

All,

After my recent gas line break I decided to replace both gas lines and the brake lines with pre-bent steel. 

When I replace the brake lines what fluid should I use?  I don't know what's in there now.  My mechanic says, Castrol-GT LMA which is synthetic. 

Also, Thank you all for your help. The console bracket and tips such as JB Weld'ing in a T-Nut to replace the hole in the tunnel left by the rear console screw, were big helps.

Greg

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Jun  8 14:44:38 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 16:44:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] And now for something completely different
In-Reply-To: <4C0E5E3D.7060807@comcast.net>
References: <4C0E3E7A.1050309@comcast.net><BAY147-w22CD1A8D72074E0E1CDCCBB8D60@phx.gbl>
	<4C0E5E3D.7060807@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <01436DCD40CD401CAA936DD7902646FC@LIFEBOOK>

Actually that colour is close to Florida Green which was introduced on the 
BN2 in january 1956. It was often duo toned with the OEW, similar to what 
they've done on this Ebay car. Biggest difference is that the production 
BN2s with Florida Green had black interiors.

Rich Chrysler

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 11:14 AM
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] And now for something completely different

> On 06/08/2010 10:35 AM, robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote:
>>
>> Well, I really like it. If you give me the money, I would be proud to
>> buy it and bring it home. I , uh, might have to change the steering 
>> wheel.
>>
>> One thing that I find odd, is that bring a trailer has a picture that
>> ebay doesn't have. Ebay only has one picture? Or am I being blocked from
>> seeing more? ( always a possibility. )
>
> eBay has lots of pictures; they're large, so maybe it's taking time to 
> load.
>
> I found the colo(u)r scheme different. This one I thought was tastefully 
> done. Even the not-black steering struck me as keeping with the theme. 
> The whole look reminded me of the Packard Caribbean of the '50s, which had 
> color schemes that were aimed at the more feminine eye.
>
> I wouldn't do it to my car, but I like that this one has a unique look. Of 
> course, it would lose points with the concours judges.
>
> -- 
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of PICT1350.jpg]

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  8 16:10:06 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 18:10:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] show
References: <896502.6071.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000801cb0757$5ac6ac70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Yea I'm going.   Who should I ask for?


J S


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john doe" <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 6:13 AM
Subject: [Healeys] show


> anyone going to the show in ho-ho-cus this sat at the hermitage
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Tue Jun  8 16:19:57 2010
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 15:19:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] And now for something completely different
In-Reply-To: <01436DCD40CD401CAA936DD7902646FC@LIFEBOOK>
References: <4C0E3E7A.1050309@comcast.net><BAY147-w22CD1A8D72074E0E1CDCCBB8D60@phx.gbl><4C0E5E3D.7060807@comcast.net>
	<01436DCD40CD401CAA936DD7902646FC@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <ADFEF89F99674B1EA1118DDEE4DB7705@JerryPC>

It looks more like a Metropolitan color mix. 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  8 16:43:44 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 15:43:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <589880.56665.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <589880.56665.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D0645017-877F-42C8-A39E-34AC893531D6@sbcglobal.net>

Use Castrol GT LMA only   Now this is probably the most contravercial  
subject on the List and I guarantee that you will get some that swear  
by Silicone and those that will swear by Castrol.

If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you use  
silicone fluid your warranty is void.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 8, 2010, at 11:31 AM, Greg Mandas wrote:

> All,
>
> After my recent gas line break I decided to replace both gas lines  
> and the brake lines with pre-bent steel.
>
> When I replace the brake lines what fluid should I use?  I don't  
> know what's in there now.  My mechanic says, Castrol-GT LMA which  
> is synthetic.
>
> Also, Thank you all for your help. The console bracket and tips  
> such as JB Weld'ing in a T-Nut to replace the hole in the tunnel  
> left by the rear console screw, were big helps.
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From ah53 at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  8 17:03:01 2010
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 16:03:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] show
In-Reply-To: <000801cb0757$5ac6ac70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <589789.44931.qm@web31502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'll be there with the BJ8 aka Blue Baby and the '66 XKE aka The Ghost.  My
daughter and son-in-law will bring the "Wedding Sprite" license plate "I DO". 
All please say hello it would be nice to met some of the on liners.

Joe
BN1 #923 Coronet Cream
BN2 100M
BJ8 THe Blue Bay as per wife and kid.

--- On Tue, 6/8/10, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] show
To: "john doe" <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>, Healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, June 8, 2010, 6:10 PM

Yea I'm going.   Who should I ask for?


J S


----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 6:13 AM
Subject: [Healeys] show


> anyone going to the show in ho-ho-cus this sat at the hermitage
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53 at yahoo.com

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jun  8 17:54:35 2010
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 19:54:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sprite (Marine) on ebay
Message-ID: <4C0ED83B.1040207@earthlink.net>

www.ebay.co.uk item 270589408051

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun  8 17:58:14 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 18:58:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <D0645017-877F-42C8-A39E-34AC893531D6@sbcglobal.net>
References: <589880.56665.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<D0645017-877F-42C8-A39E-34AC893531D6@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4C0ED916.80205@justbrits.com>

HeeHee David, yer gonna LOVE THIS !!!  LOL !!

<< Use Castrol GT LMA only >>
 
AGREED and you are not only 100% correct but actually
1000% correct !!!

<< Now this is probably the most contravercial subject on the List >>
 
AGREED and you are not only 100% correct but actually
1000% correct !!!  And YES everybody it IS *me* saying
this, but David - turn the AUTOMATIC SpelChek ON <G> !!

<< and I guarantee that you will get some that swearby Silicone and
those that will swear by Castrol. >>

I have BTDT with regard to Silycon and NEVER again.  Tried the crap in 
my own car and as I said NEVER again !!  I even REFUSE
to put in a Customers' car [for the past <sigh> 50+ years].

<< If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you use 
silicone
fluid your warranty is void. >>

And as I USED to tell customers' their's is good to end of driveway [100']!!

<< David Nock >>

And I did recognize whom the post was from - LOL !!!!

Best to all !!

Ed

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]{and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From pennell at cox.net  Tue Jun  8 18:54:44 2010
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 20:54:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <D0645017-877F-42C8-A39E-34AC893531D6@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>

Where can you get it?  I have looked at several auto parts stores around and cannot find it!

Keith

---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> Use Castrol GT LMA only   Now this is probably the most contravercial  
> subject on the List and I guarantee that you will get some that swear  
> by Silicone and those that will swear by Castrol.
> 
> If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you use  
> silicone fluid your warranty is void.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Jun  8 19:02:04 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 21:02:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C0ED916.80205@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <20100608210204.ZBL31.102687.root@pamxwww04-z01>

BS Ed.  I've used Silicone in my E and my Healey for years with excellent results.  Had to REALLY apply the brakes on my E yesterday and got a loud squeel and very quick stop----so---what IS the problem with it?

tom

---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" <shop at justbrits.com> wrote: 

=============
HeeHee David, yer gonna LOVE THIS !!!  LOL !!

<< Use Castrol GT LMA only >>
 
AGREED and you are not only 100% correct but actually
1000% correct !!!

<< Now this is probably the most contravercial subject on the List >>
 
AGREED and you are not only 100% correct but actually
1000% correct !!!  And YES everybody it IS *me* saying
this, but David - turn the AUTOMATIC SpelChek ON <G> !!

<< and I guarantee that you will get some that swearby Silicone and
those that will swear by Castrol. >>

I have BTDT with regard to Silycon and NEVER again.  Tried the crap in 
my own car and as I said NEVER again !!  I even REFUSE
to put in a Customers' car [for the past <sigh> 50+ years].

<< If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you use 
silicone
fluid your warranty is void. >>

And as I USED to tell customers' their's is good to end of driveway [100']!!

<< David Nock >>

And I did recognize whom the post was from - LOL !!!!

Best to all !!

Ed

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]{and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From jpayne at ThorCon.net  Tue Jun  8 19:19:24 2010
From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 18:19:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Storage / work Lifts
In-Reply-To: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
References: <D0645017-877F-42C8-A39E-34AC893531D6@sbcglobal.net>
	<20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
Message-ID: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BF76A4B2@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>

I am in the market for a work/storage lift for my personal shop/emerging hobby
business.

Most of the 4 post lifts on the market are way overkill for LBC's.

Anybody have or know of a pint sized 4 post lift or an inexpensive 2 post that
is suitable for both work and storage?

Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084




"This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the
use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.  If you have
received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
and delete all copies from your system.  It is not the intent of the sender to
solicit any person or business.  Please note that any opinions in this email
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor
Construction, Incorporated.  Finally, the recipient should check this email
and any attachments for the presence of viruses.  The company accepts no
liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this
email."

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  8 20:00:46 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
Message-ID: <411914.46607.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Keith,

amazon.com, amazingly enough.

Greg

--- On Tue, 6/8/10,
pennell at cox.net <pennell at cox.net> wrote:

> From: pennell at cox.net
<pennell at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
> To: "Greg Mandas"
<gmandas at yahoo.com>, "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc:
healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, June 8, 2010, 8:54 PM
> Where can you
get it?  I have
> looked at several auto parts stores around and cannot find
>
it!
> 
> Keith
> 
> ---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> wrote: 
> >
Use Castrol GT LMA only   Now this is
> probably the most contravercial  
> >
subject on the List and I guarantee that you will get
> some that swear  
> >
by Silicone and those that will swear by Castrol.
> > 
> > If you look at any
Girling rebuild kit is states that
> if you use  
> > silicone fluid your
warranty is void.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > David Nock
> > British Car
Specialists
> > Stockton Ca 95205
> > 209-948-8767

From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  8 20:03:49 2010
From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:03:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <D0645017-877F-42C8-A39E-34AC893531D6@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <746091.44530.qm@web53002.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Does Castrol GT LMA destroy paint ?
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M

--- On Tue, 6/8/10, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
To: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, June 8, 2010, 3:43 PM


Use Castrol GT LMA only   Now this is probably the most contravercial 
subject on the List and I guarantee that you will get some that swear 
by Silicone and those that will swear by Castrol.

If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you use 
silicone fluid your warranty is void.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jun  8 20:13:36 2010
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 22:13:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
References: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
Message-ID: <4C0EF8D0.2000509@earthlink.net>

I get it at Earl's Indy (local for me).  It's also available from 
amazon.com.

pennell at cox.net wrote:
> Where can you get it?  I have looked at several auto parts stores around and cannot find it!
> 
> Keith
> 
> ---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
>> Use Castrol GT LMA only   Now this is probably the most contravercial  
>> subject on the List and I guarantee that you will get some that swear  
>> by Silicone and those that will swear by Castrol.
>>
>> If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you use  
>> silicone fluid your warranty is void.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  8 20:30:51 2010
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 19:30:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Storage / work Lifts
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BF76A4B2@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <D0645017-877F-42C8-A39E-34AC893531D6@sbcglobal.net>,
	<20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>,
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65445BF76A4B2@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <BLU117-W13843EF2C587C2E34141A4BFD70@phx.gbl>

I have a 4 post Rotary lift which was about $3k delivered and I assembled,
about 5 years ago. Love it as I do work on all the cars (and the neighbors and
friends) not just the Healey.  There are now over 6 in the neighborhood and
some have installed 2.Go to a good Guys Hot Rod car show and look at the ones
offered by vendors there.  The difference in quality/price is very apparent.

Beware of low cost "deals" as the quality and strength is just not there.  A
small scissor stand works well on our cars but no storage under them


Richard of KY

BN7 #440

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  8 21:09:52 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 20:09:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Panther Lift
In-Reply-To: <mailman.24.1275933603.3782.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <850898.89926.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

All,

I have an extremely low ceiling in my garage and I'm really tired of using a floor jack. I ran across this jack and I am wondering if "we" think it would work on a Healey.

http://www.pantherlifts.com/Panther/index.php?action=item&id=116&prevaction=category&previd=3&prevstart=0

Greg

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Jun  8 22:12:50 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 00:12:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C0EF8D0.2000509@earthlink.net>
References: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
	<4C0EF8D0.2000509@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <019c01cb078a$0716ff20$1544fd60$@net>

Available at Pep Boys

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


I get it at Earl's Indy (local for me).  It's also available from
amazon.com.

pennell at cox.net wrote:
> Where can you get it?  I have looked at several auto parts stores around
and cannot find it!
>
> Keith
>
> ---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> Use Castrol GT LMA only   Now this is probably the most contravercial
>> subject on the List and I guarantee that you will get some that swear
>> by Silicone and those that will swear by Castrol.
>>
>> If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you use
>> silicone fluid your warranty is void.

From Editorgary at aol.com  Tue Jun  8 23:04:52 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 01:04:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
Message-ID: <da323.6ad537d5.39407af4@aol.com>

Sorry, I guess I wasn't paying attention and didn't realize it was time for 
the annual British Car Argue About Brake Fluid Festival. -- what must it be 
now, the 40th annual re-enactment of this ancient brawl? 

Fact 1: Neither glycol and silicone fluids, used separately, will not harm 
modern synthetic rubber seals.

Fact 2: Glycol is hygroscopic and therefore must be flushed and replaced 
every two years. 

Fact 3: Silicone fluid won't harm paint; Glycol will.

Fact 4: Glycol gives superior response because it doesn't compress as much 
before pushing through the system.

Fact 5: Never, ever mix glycol and silicone fluids in any amounts, because 
they cancel out one another's additives and will cause the seals in the 
system to fail.

Conclusions: Use glycol in cars that are driven frequently, but be very 
careful when you refill the system so you don't spill it on your paint, and 
change it regularly. Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and 
infrequently. 

And those were the same conclusions that I arrived at after research 14 
years ago when i wrote my first article on brake fluids for British Car 
Magazine, and no one has yet contradicted any of those facts, except for the fools' 
chorus that is a traditional part of this festival, where they array 
themselves and sing antiphonally across the grease pit: "Silicone fluid is bad" 
and from the other side, "Glycol Fluid is bad."

Gary

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun  9 00:04:24 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 02:04:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
References: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
Message-ID: <001c01cb0799$9d2b1c30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Moss


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pennell at cox.net>
To: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com>; "David Nock" 
<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid


> Where can you get it?  I have looked at several auto parts stores around 
> and cannot find it!
>
> Keith
>
> ---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> Use Castrol GT LMA only   Now this is probably the most contravercial
>> subject on the List and I guarantee that you will get some that swear
>> by Silicone and those that will swear by Castrol.
>>
>> If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you use
>> silicone fluid your warranty is void.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Jun  9 01:12:57 2010
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 9 Jun 2010 09:12:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?NOT_Healey_related_-_TR250/6_distributor?=
Message-ID: <MYFA_SERVER_IIKUXvG00004af1@www.erp-3.net>

Hi,

I'm looking for a Triumph TR250/TR6 ignition distributor. I know that this is the AH list but thought that since we are all more or less LBC affine, I'd ask this list as well.

So, if you have one or more of this distributor (condition not relevant) wasting shelf place and you don't need it any more, please contact me offline.

Eric

From paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jun  9 03:13:47 2010
From: paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk (Paul Baker)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 02:13:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Fluid problem
Message-ID: <554160.58830.qm@web23407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I posted this problem on the Spridget list, but as the problem is not
necessarily Sprite specific, I would appreciate your thoughts on it.

Last
year I fitted new brake and clutch master cylinders and a new slave cylinder
on my Sprite and used Castrol Response Super Dot 4, Glycol based brake fluid
(available in the UK) in both clutch and braking systems .  One year on the
fluid in the Clutch m/c turned dark grey and very thick and slave and m/c
rubbers failed.  I replaced both Clutch m/c and slave and flushed system with
fresh fluid.  After a month with new clutch master/slave cylinders the fluid
is turning grey again.  The fluid in the brake m/c is fine.  What's causing
the fluid to change colour and go thick, are the rubber seals disintegrating
or is the fluid oxidising the castings?  And why the clutch system but not the
brake system as the m/c's were from the same manufacturer?

I called Castrol
Tech Support and they have not heard of this problem before, but have asked
for a sample of the fluid and old seals for analysis.  I am also aware of two
other Sprite owners having the same problems.

Paul

65 Sprite
66 BJ8
67 BJ8

From acmiller at mhcable.com  Wed Jun  9 03:37:41 2010
From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 05:37:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] tandem dual master cylinder
Message-ID: <EF14A87AD336452ABA98EA0DF5DE643E@ACM030>

Hello Listers

Need to set up a dual master cylinder on a BN2 with a proportioning system to
balance front and rears

One of the consultants with whom I've corresponded has recommended a 'tandem'
cylinder, in which the two masters are in line, and could be mounted on the
BN2 rail without a lot of modifications to the support.

I have my doubts if I could mount a typical dual reservoir/side-by-side dual
cylinder using the stock BN2 pedal mount given the lack of 'throw distance'
between the pedal and cylinder. I do not want to intall a later model pedal
box if I can avoid it, so I am exploring options.

My basic requirements are for racing and safety...

1. double redundancy (two separate feed pipes and reservoirs)
2. mountability on the BN2 rail without modification
3. ability to remotely proportion balance between front and rear


If anyone has achieved all three objectives on a BN2 I would gratefully
appreciate your input.

thanks

 allen miller bn2/m

From pryner at verizon.net  Wed Jun  9 05:24:14 2010
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 07:24:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <001c01cb0799$9d2b1c30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
	<001c01cb0799$9d2b1c30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <D5399D89B34F44F7BAC669265F3F8C0B@PetePC>

All of the big 3 carry it (Moss, VB, Roadster Factory).  I used to see it in 
Auto Zone but haven't seen it there in a while.
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <pennell at cox.net>; "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com>; "David Nock" 
<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 2:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid


> Moss
>
>
. 

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Jun  9 06:15:02 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 06:15:02 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Fluid problem
In-Reply-To: <554160.58830.qm@web23407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <554160.58830.qm@web23407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BACA05E6676242558D7E1E0413FC5699@oscar>

I've seen this on cars near the coasts. Salt air is tuff on stuff. This is
not a definitive opinion, just a guess..
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Paul Baker
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 3:14 AM
To: Healeys autox
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Fluid problem

I posted this problem on the Spridget list, but as the problem is not
necessarily Sprite specific, I would appreciate your thoughts on it.

Last
year I fitted new brake and clutch master cylinders and a new slave cylinder
on my Sprite and used Castrol Response Super Dot 4, Glycol based brake fluid
(available in the UK) in both clutch and braking systems .  One year on the
fluid in the Clutch m/c turned dark grey and very thick and slave and m/c
rubbers failed.  I replaced both Clutch m/c and slave and flushed system
with
fresh fluid.  After a month with new clutch master/slave cylinders the fluid
is turning grey again.  The fluid in the brake m/c is fine.  What's causing
the fluid to change colour and go thick, are the rubber seals disintegrating
or is the fluid oxidising the castings?  And why the clutch system but not
the
brake system as the m/c's were from the same manufacturer?

I called Castrol
Tech Support and they have not heard of this problem before, but have asked
for a sample of the fluid and old seals for analysis.  I am also aware of
two
other Sprite owners having the same problems.

Paul

65 Sprite
66 BJ8
67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jun  9 06:33:10 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 8:33:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
Message-ID: <20100609083310.F4HI4.169148.root@pamxwww01-z01>

---- Editorgary at aol.com wrote: 

Conclusions: Use glycol in cars that are driven frequently, but be very 
careful when you refill the system so you don't spill it on your paint, and 
change it regularly. Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and 
infrequently.

______
I just can't help myself, I guess.  Anyway, here goes.  I have been using silicone, as I said, in my Healey and E-Type for YEARS---and
1.  I drive them both frequently---took the Healey all over Europe for 47 days a few years ago--using silicone fulid.
2.  When I added the silicone years ago, I just flushed out the old DOT 4 and put in the silicone.  So---there was some residue of DOT 4 in the system.  ZERO leaks in at least 12 to 14 years.
3.  You say---"Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and 
infrequently."  OK---for exactly what reason?  As I said, my cars are "drivers" and I drive them frequently and pretty hard.  Give me technical data to support this statement.

The only technical data I have seen against silicone use is in racing where the brakes get hot and silicone tends to make the brakes fade fast.  I'm not racing mine, so the benefits of using it far outweigh the reasons not to use it.

Over and out:)

Tom

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Wed Jun  9 07:04:19 2010
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 15:04:19 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] And now for something completely different
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18891.1276048972.914.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <23EBD0CDAA69408F9A9936B83EC1D067@tm>

The paint is ok, you can always change it, but the underneath of the car is
scary. One of the frame rails must have rusted (repair is visible & the
front cross member is sort of gone.. 

It's a car for the brave (& rich) :-)


Best, tadek

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 07:11:17 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 09:11:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <da323.6ad537d5.39407af4@aol.com>
References: <da323.6ad537d5.39407af4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinNFdvFNN2qYO918qkG4NFfFQThR4UjWRZw5yg6@mail.gmail.com>

Glycol doesn't seem to affect modern paints....


On 6/9/10, Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
> Sorry, I guess I wasn't paying attention and didn't realize it was time for
> the annual British Car Argue About Brake Fluid Festival. -- what must it be
> now, the 40th annual re-enactment of this ancient brawl?
>
> Fact 1: Neither glycol and silicone fluids, used separately, will not harm
> modern synthetic rubber seals.
>
> Fact 2: Glycol is hygroscopic and therefore must be flushed and replaced
> every two years.
>
> Fact 3: Silicone fluid won't harm paint; Glycol will.
>
> Fact 4: Glycol gives superior response because it doesn't compress as much
> before pushing through the system.
>
> Fact 5: Never, ever mix glycol and silicone fluids in any amounts, because
> they cancel out one another's additives and will cause the seals in the
> system to fail.
>
> Conclusions: Use glycol in cars that are driven frequently, but be very
> careful when you refill the system so you don't spill it on your paint, and
> change it regularly. Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and
> infrequently.
>
> And those were the same conclusions that I arrived at after research 14
> years ago when i wrote my first article on brake fluids for British Car
> Magazine, and no one has yet contradicted any of those facts, except for the
> fools'
> chorus that is a traditional part of this festival, where they array
> themselves and sing antiphonally across the grease pit: "Silicone fluid is
> bad"
> and from the other side, "Glycol Fluid is bad."
>
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  9 07:11:19 2010
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 06:11:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
References: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
Message-ID: <894038.53293.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

On the Castrol Web Site there is a store locator for Castrol GT LMA & Castrol
GT LMA Synthetic.
http://tinyurl.com/q3smxh  Just enter your location, check
source of your choice and search radius.

Enjoy the day
Ron
________________________________
From: "pennell at cox.net" <pennell at cox.net>
To:
Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>; David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc:
healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, June 8, 2010 8:54:44 PM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Brake Fluid

Where can you get it?  I have looked at several auto
parts stores around and cannot find it!

Keith

---- David Nock
<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> Use Castrol GT LMA only  Now this is
probably the most contravercial  
> subject on the List and I guarantee that
you will get some that swear  
> by Silicone and those that will swear by
Castrol.
> 
> If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you
use  
> silicone fluid your warranty is void.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Nock
>
British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 07:14:22 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 21:14:22 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] tandem dual master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <EF14A87AD336452ABA98EA0DF5DE643E@ACM030>
References: <EF14A87AD336452ABA98EA0DF5DE643E@ACM030>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil9IoUTtGjuJdWRGzYQQBkZgw7O7p7P3Btu1bKi@mail.gmail.com>

I think the wilwood set up will give you two of three, and with a
pressure valve in the rear line give you all three....

On 6/9/10, allen c miller jr <acmiller at mhcable.com> wrote:
> Hello Listers
>
> Need to set up a dual master cylinder on a BN2 with a proportioning system
> to
> balance front and rears
>
> One of the consultants with whom I've corresponded has recommended a
> 'tandem'
> cylinder, in which the two masters are in line, and could be mounted on the
> BN2 rail without a lot of modifications to the support.
>
> I have my doubts if I could mount a typical dual reservoir/side-by-side dual
> cylinder using the stock BN2 pedal mount given the lack of 'throw distance'
> between the pedal and cylinder. I do not want to intall a later model pedal
> box if I can avoid it, so I am exploring options.
>
> My basic requirements are for racing and safety...
>
> 1. double redundancy (two separate feed pipes and reservoirs)
> 2. mountability on the BN2 rail without modification
> 3. ability to remotely proportion balance between front and rear
>
>
> If anyone has achieved all three objectives on a BN2 I would gratefully
> appreciate your input.
>
> thanks
>
>  allen miller bn2/m
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Jun  9 08:03:33 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 08:03:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <894038.53293.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
	<894038.53293.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <449BCEED2A1A4B19B377B4FDC28D193D@oscar>

What is the fascination with the Castrol brand? Are their chemists adding
some secret ingredient? I mean, I know the decal says "use only Castrol"
but exactly what is the difference between brand names?
 Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 7:11 AM
To: pennell at cox.net; Greg Mandas; David Nock
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid

On the Castrol Web Site there is a store locator for Castrol GT LMA &
Castrol
GT LMA Synthetic.
http://tinyurl.com/q3smxh  Just enter your location, check
source of your choice and search radius.

Enjoy the day
Ron
________________________________
From: "pennell at cox.net" <pennell at cox.net>
To:
Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>; David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc:
healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, June 8, 2010 8:54:44 PM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Brake Fluid

Where can you get it?  I have looked at several auto
parts stores around and cannot find it!

Keith

---- David Nock
<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> Use Castrol GT LMA only  Now this is
probably the most contravercial  
> subject on the List and I guarantee that
you will get some that swear  
> by Silicone and those that will swear by
Castrol.
> 
> If you look at any Girling rebuild kit is states that if you
use  
> silicone fluid your warranty is void.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Nock
>
British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Jun  9 08:40:23 2010
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 09:40:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100609083310.F4HI4.169148.root@pamxwww01-z01>
Message-ID: <CEAB4C2DCD4D4D628B215242CC6CCACA@DANSTROM>

I let my car sit for 3 years several years back and when I checked around
the brake drums/pistons/shoes/etc there was green crystallized deposits of
what appeared to be brake fluid.  Had to rebuild all.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 7:33 AM
To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid

---- Editorgary at aol.com wrote: 

Conclusions: Use glycol in cars that are driven frequently, but be very 
careful when you refill the system so you don't spill it on your paint, and 
change it regularly. Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and

infrequently.

______
I just can't help myself, I guess.  Anyway, here goes.  I have been using
silicone, as I said, in my Healey and E-Type for YEARS---and
1.  I drive them both frequently---took the Healey all over Europe for 47
days a few years ago--using silicone fulid.
2.  When I added the silicone years ago, I just flushed out the old DOT 4
and put in the silicone.  So---there was some residue of DOT 4 in the
system.  ZERO leaks in at least 12 to 14 years.
3.  You say---"Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and 
infrequently."  OK---for exactly what reason?  As I said, my cars are
"drivers" and I drive them frequently and pretty hard.  Give me technical
data to support this statement.

The only technical data I have seen against silicone use is in racing where
the brakes get hot and silicone tends to make the brakes fade fast.  I'm not
racing mine, so the benefits of using it far outweigh the reasons not to use
it.

Over and out:)

Tom
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Wed Jun  9 09:25:46 2010
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 08:25:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Problem
Message-ID: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>

I am in the middle of doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7.  I put
about 20 miles on the chassis before taking it to the body shop, and the
clutch worked perfectly.  The chassis sat in a cool, damp corner of the body
shop for 2 months.  After the body was assembled, I went to pick the car up,
and the clutch would not completely release.  In order to drive the car, I
have to start it with the clutch pedal down and the transmission in gear.
When I hit the starter button, the car does not try to move, so the clutch is
only dragging a little bit...just enough to make impossible to put in gear.

Any suggestions?

John Snyder
1959 BN7
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2
1962 BT7 MK2

From ktaplin1934 at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 09:57:22 2010
From: ktaplin1934 at gmail.com (Ken Taplin)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 11:57:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
Message-ID: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>

Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal.

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Jun  9 09:57:43 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 09:57:43 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Problem
In-Reply-To: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>
References: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>
Message-ID: <68C8AB33DB2246908909F635AED3FE5C@oscar>

John,
 New pressure plates are coated with a rust preventative grease. If that was
not thoroughly cleaned off it may be causing the problem??
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Snyder
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 9:26 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Problem

I am in the middle of doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7.  I put
about 20 miles on the chassis before taking it to the body shop, and the
clutch worked perfectly.  The chassis sat in a cool, damp corner of the body
shop for 2 months.  After the body was assembled, I went to pick the car up,
and the clutch would not completely release.  In order to drive the car, I
have to start it with the clutch pedal down and the transmission in gear.
When I hit the starter button, the car does not try to move, so the clutch
is
only dragging a little bit...just enough to make impossible to put in gear.

Any suggestions?

John Snyder
1959 BN7
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2
1962 BT7 MK2
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 10:27:17 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 09:27:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
Message-ID: <4C0FC0E5.6030106@comcast.net>

re: "Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal."

Uncalled-for, IMO.

bs



Ken Taplin wrote:
> Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal.
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 10:31:40 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 09:31:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil7stT-upCp4iEQCchGOxkZ2S1KOZW9i5cYOOhE@mail.gmail.com>

wow!! Brake fluid again????
ARCHIVES!!!!!
Anyone care to talk about engine/transmission oils?? Its been what 3 weeks
since we wrote about that...
Yes I know I'm being cranky

On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 8:57 AM, Ken Taplin <ktaplin1934 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 10:40:21 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 09:40:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Problem
In-Reply-To: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>
References: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>
Message-ID: <4C0FC3F5.3000003@comcast.net>

Sounds like a problem with the hydraulics, like there's (a lot of) air 
in the line.  I'd start with a good bleeding (the clutch line first, the 
wallet will come later). 

Did you check the fluid level and look for leaks?

bs


John Snyder wrote:
> I am in the middle of doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7.  I put
> about 20 miles on the chassis before taking it to the body shop, and the
> clutch worked perfectly.  The chassis sat in a cool, damp corner of the body
> shop for 2 months.  After the body was assembled, I went to pick the car up,
> and the clutch would not completely release.  In order to drive the car, I
> have to start it with the clutch pedal down and the transmission in gear.
> When I hit the starter button, the car does not try to move, so the clutch is
> only dragging a little bit...just enough to make impossible to put in gear.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> John Snyder
> 1959 BN7
> 1960 BT7
> 1961 BN7 MK2
> 1962 BT7 MK2
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 10:48:57 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 09:48:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinNFdvFNN2qYO918qkG4NFfFQThR4UjWRZw5yg6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <da323.6ad537d5.39407af4@aol.com>
	<AANLkTinNFdvFNN2qYO918qkG4NFfFQThR4UjWRZw5yg6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C0FC5F9.2060805@comcast.net>

How modern?  My son's '96 Cherokee sprung a leak from a rear (drum) 
wheel cylinder and the DoT3 blistered and removed almost all of the 
paint from the backing shield.


bs


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Glycol doesn't seem to affect modern paints....
>
>
>   
>>     
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 10:50:44 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 12:50:44 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
Message-ID: <5a409.37d5353b.39412064@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/9/10 5:33:13 AM, tomfelts at windstream.net writes:


> 3.  You say---"Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and
> infrequently."  OK---for exactly what reason?  As I said, my cars are
> "drivers" and I drive them frequently and pretty hard.  Give me technical
data
> to support this statement.
>
>

What I'm stipulating here is about the maximum that the traditionalists
will accept. To actually believe that Silicone brake fluid is RECOMMENDed for
any reason is way beyond their boundaries.

I too use silicone brake fluid in my Healey, but I have to confess that I
drive it less frequently than I used to.   It typically runs up about 2,500
miles a year.
By contrast, when I had glycol in my MGB GT and left it parked outside (in
California) under a cover over the winter because it needed some little
thing that I didn't have time to deal with, when I came to drive it in the
spring, the clutch slave cylinder had frozen due to rust in the system.
I see no reason why you couldn't use silicone, but for a car that is
literally driven daily, especially in commute conditions, I'd prefer glycol,
and
certainly for racing. So in my garage, the Mercedes C55 and the MGA race car
have glycol (actually ATE Blue), but the Healey has silicone.

Cheers
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 10:56:35 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 12:56:35 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Neither the twain shall meet.
Message-ID: <5abd5.1cd1c39d.394121c3@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/9/10 6:39:26 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> Fact 1: Neither glycol and silicone fluids, used separately, will not 
> harm
> modern synthetic rubber seals.
> 
Sorry, that should have read:

Fact 1: Neither glycol nor silicone fluids, used separately, will harm
modern synthetic rubber seals.

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jun  9 11:12:52 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 13:12:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <5a409.37d5353b.39412064@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20100609131252.FK0LY.174974.root@pamxwww01-z01>

Thanks Gary---you must be one of those silicone users with "snob
appeal":):):)

tom

---- Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

=============

In a message dated 6/9/10 5:33:13 AM, tomfelts at windstream.net writes:


> 3.B  You say---"Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and
> infrequently."B  OK---for exactly what reason?B  As I said, my cars are
> "drivers" and I drive them frequently and pretty hard.B  Give me technical
data
> to support this statement.
>
>

What I'm stipulating here is about the maximum that the traditionalists
will accept. To actually believe that Silicone brake fluid is RECOMMENDed for
any reason is way beyond their boundaries.

I too use silicone brake fluid in my Healey, but I have to confess that I
drive it less frequently than I used to.   It typically runs up about 2,500
miles a year.
By contrast, when I had glycol in my MGB GT and left it parked outside (in
California) under a cover over the winter because it needed some little
thing that I didn't have time to deal with, when I came to drive it in the
spring, the clutch slave cylinder had frozen due to rust in the system.
I see no reason why you couldn't use silicone, but for a car that is
literally driven daily, especially in commute conditions, I'd prefer glycol,
and
certainly for racing. So in my garage, the Mercedes C55 and the MGA race car
have glycol (actually ATE Blue), but the Healey has silicone.

Cheers
Gary

From robertlarson at att.net  Wed Jun  9 11:18:08 2010
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 13:18:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTil7stT-upCp4iEQCchGOxkZ2S1KOZW9i5cYOOhE@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
	<AANLkTil7stT-upCp4iEQCchGOxkZ2S1KOZW9i5cYOOhE@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C0FCCD0.6030900@att.net>

Yes, lets rehash the different oils and get that out of the way so we 
can get back to our regular scheduled program on tire sizes and choices.

Bob


On 6/9/2010 12:31 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> wow!! Brake fluid again????
> ARCHIVES!!!!!
> Anyone care to talk about engine/transmission oils?? Its been what 3 weeks
> since we wrote about that...
> Yes I know I'm being cranky
>
> On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 8:57 AM, Ken Taplin<ktaplin1934 at gmail.com>  wrote:
>    
>> Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal.

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Jun  9 11:29:32 2010
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 12:29:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100609130923.6IVDW.174897.root@pamxwww01-z01>
Message-ID: <3D07B0C3086A4359818BE7EAACCA69C9@DANSTROM>

Dot4 crystallized.


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Felts [mailto:tomfelts at windstream.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 12:09 PM
To: Dan Stromquist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid

What was the fluid---Dot4 or silicone?


---- Dan Stromquist <dan at warner-associates.com> wrote: 

=============
I let my car sit for 3 years several years back and when I checked around
the brake drums/pistons/shoes/etc there was green crystallized deposits of
what appeared to be brake fluid.  Had to rebuild all.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 7:33 AM
To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid

---- Editorgary at aol.com wrote: 

Conclusions: Use glycol in cars that are driven frequently, but be very 
careful when you refill the system so you don't spill it on your paint, and 
change it regularly. Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and

infrequently.

______

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Wed Jun  9 11:46:34 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 17:46:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C0FCCD0.6030900@att.net>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>,
	<AANLkTil7stT-upCp4iEQCchGOxkZ2S1KOZW9i5cYOOhE@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4C0FCCD0.6030900@att.net>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w483EF254B702BF13794932B8D70@phx.gbl>

But ... do we never get to talk about firearms and Zappa music?  :)

( Oh, I'll pay for that! )
Robert Duquette

Ottawa ON Canada

1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )

1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )

1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen
)http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg



> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 13:18:08 -0400
> From: robertlarson at att.net
>
> Yes, lets rehash the different oils and get that out of the way so we
> can get back to our regular scheduled program on tire sizes and choices.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/9/2010 12:31 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> > wow!! Brake fluid again????
> > ARCHIVES!!!!!
> > Anyone care to talk about engine/transmission oils?? Its been what 3
weeks
> > since we wrote about that...
> > Yes I know I'm being cranky
> >
> > On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 8:57 AM, Ken Taplin<ktaplin1934 at gmail.com>  wrote:
> >
> >> Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 11:53:41 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 10:53:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100609131252.FK0LY.174974.root@pamxwww01-z01>
References: <20100609131252.FK0LY.174974.root@pamxwww01-z01>
Message-ID: <4C0FD525.4010903@comcast.net>

Just came across this quote, which seems appropriate:

"The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there 
is no good evidence either way."

*--Bertrand Russell,
British philosopher, logician, mathematician and historian* (and LBC 
owner, maybe?)




Tom Felts wrote:
> Thanks Gary---you must be one of those silicone users with "snob
> appeal":):):)
>
> tom
>
> ---- Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
>
> =============
>
> In a message dated 6/9/10 5:33:13 AM, tomfelts at windstream.net writes:
>
>
>   
>> 3.B  You say---"Use silicone in show cars that are driven less hard and
>> infrequently."B  OK---for exactly what reason?B  As I said, my cars are
>> "drivers" and I drive them frequently and pretty hard.B  Give me technical
>>     
> data
>   
>> to support this statement.
>>
>>
>>     
>
> What I'm stipulating here is about the maximum that the traditionalists
> will accept. To actually believe that Silicone brake fluid is RECOMMENDed for
> any reason is way beyond their boundaries.
>
> I too use silicone brake fluid in my Healey, but I have to confess that I
> drive it less frequently than I used to.   It typically runs up about 2,500
> miles a year.
> By contrast, when I had glycol in my MGB GT and left it parked outside (in
> California) under a cover over the winter because it needed some little
> thing that I didn't have time to deal with, when I came to drive it in the
> spring, the clutch slave cylinder had frozen due to rust in the system.
> I see no reason why you couldn't use silicone, but for a car that is
> literally driven daily, especially in commute conditions, I'd prefer glycol,
> and
> certainly for racing. So in my garage, the Mercedes C55 and the MGA race car
> have glycol (actually ATE Blue), but the Healey has silicone.
>
> Cheers
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 11:56:30 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 13:56:30 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch won't release
Message-ID: <5f85b.3863b204.39412fce@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/9/10 10:25:30 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> I am in the middle of doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7.  I put
> about 20 miles on the chassis before taking it to the body shop, and the
> clutch worked perfectly.  The chassis sat in a cool, damp corner of the
> body
> shop for 2 months.  After the body was assembled, I went to pick the car
> up,
> and the clutch would not completely release. 
>
Do you have glycol brake/clutch fluid in the system or silicone? if it's
glycol, there's the possibility that you may have some rust in the clutch
slave cylinder from the time the car was sitting. The same thing happened to
my
MGB GT when I stored it outside for a few months while not driving it.

Gary

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 11:57:20 2010
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 10:57:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Problem
Message-ID: <8E754690-79DC-497F-BDE7-4E4419240F90@comcast.net>

Following my recent gearbox/overdrive overhaul I experienced problems  
with my clutch.  Due to my ignorance I had overlooked servicing the  
clutch fork shaft bushes.  My BJ8 has 120,000 miles on it so it would  
have been the smart thing to do.  Dumb me.  The result was after total  
reassembly of the drive train and replacement of the interior I began  
to hear an odd noise when the engine was running with the car in  
neutral.  It turned out to be the clutch fork drooping on the worn  
bushes sufficiently to allow the release bearing to touch the first  
motion shaft.  I realize this is not your exact problem but if you  
haven't replaced those bushes on your clutch and there are significant  
miles on the system perhaps the fork is not moving freely.  I  
recommend inspecting the fork movement.  I suggest you remove the  
clevis pin from the slave cylinder rod and test the movement of the  
fork.  If there is any lack of free movement or verttical wobble to  
the fork movement you may need to replace the fork bushes.

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 12:03:12 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 14:03:12 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
Message-ID: <60132.278fd50b.39413160@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/9/10 10:53:43 AM, bspidell at comcast.net writes:


> 
> "The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there
> is no good evidence either way."
> 
> *--Bertrand Russell,
> British philosopher, logician, mathematician and historian* (and LBC
> owner, maybe?)
> 



On a similar note:

"In any dispute the intensity of feeling is inversely proportional to the 
value of the stakes at issue." By way of corollary, it adds: "That is why 
academic politics are so bitter." Sayre's law is named after Wallace Stanley 
Sayre (1905-1972), U.S. political scientist and professor at Columbia 
University.

And not so related, but still appropriate in many instances -- could 
occasionally be said about people on this list, if I were feeling really mean and 
cranky...

"Some people like a Slinky...Not really good for anything, but you still 
can't help but smile when you shove them down the stairs."

Cheers
Gary

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 12:03:41 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 11:03:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <3D07B0C3086A4359818BE7EAACCA69C9@DANSTROM>
References: <3D07B0C3086A4359818BE7EAACCA69C9@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <4C0FD77D.2020103@comcast.net>

Same thing happened with our BN2, only the crystals were greenish.

bs


Dan Stromquist wrote:
> Dot4 crystallized.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Felts [mailto:tomfelts at windstream.net] 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 12:09 PM
> To: Dan Stromquist
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
>
> What was the fluid---Dot4 or silicone?
>
>
> ---- Dan Stromquist <dan at warner-associates.com> wrote: 
>
> =============
> I let my car sit for 3 years several years back and when I checked around
> the brake drums/pistons/shoes/etc there was green crystallized deposits of
> what appeared to be brake fluid.  Had to rebuild all.
>
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun  9 12:10:01 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 11:10:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <da323.6ad537d5.39407af4@aol.com>
References: <da323.6ad537d5.39407af4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0C292A1A-FCC2-469B-BF38-F07DC94F926C@sbcglobal.net>

I have been using nothing but Castol GT LMA for ever. It will no  
damage the paint on the car if it is cleaned up right away especially  
if you any of the newer paints that are a base coat clear coat. It  
will take the normal paints that are used on suspension parts and  
other misc components like that.

My main issue is that the silicone fluid will retain air suspended in  
the system and it is very difficult to get a good solid pedal. This  
is most noticeable on a car with drum brakes.

Next the moisture that gets into the system is in the air and you  
cant avoid it getting into the system. Then it will go to the bottom  
of the system with either fluid. Then water in the system equals  
corrosion.

So what are we gaining.

This has been discussed so many times it will never come to a final  
decision. I just know what we do and have done for ever and i am not  
changing.

So now lets get into the formulation of the paint on the car and  
which is the best one to use. Or Engine oils i am sure that one would  
last for another week or so.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 8, 2010, at 10:04 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

> Sorry, I guess I wasn't paying attention and didn't realize it was  
> time for
> the annual British Car Argue About Brake Fluid Festival. -- what  
> must it be
> now, the 40th annual re-enactment of this ancient brawl?
>
> Fact 1: Neither glycol and silicone fluids, used separately, will  
> not harm
> modern synthetic rubber seals.
>
> Fact 2: Glycol is hygroscopic and therefore must be flushed and  
> replaced
> every two years.
>
> Fact 3: Silicone fluid won't harm paint; Glycol will.
>
> Fact 4: Glycol gives superior response because it doesn't compress  
> as much
> before pushing through the system.
>
> Fact 5: Never, ever mix glycol and silicone fluids in any amounts,  
> because
> they cancel out one another's additives and will cause the seals in  
> the
> system to fail.
>
> Conclusions: Use glycol in cars that are driven frequently, but be  
> very
> careful when you refill the system so you don't spill it on your  
> paint, and
> change it regularly. Use silicone in show cars that are driven less  
> hard and
> infrequently.
>
> And those were the same conclusions that I arrived at after  
> research 14
> years ago when i wrote my first article on brake fluids for British  
> Car
> Magazine, and no one has yet contradicted any of those facts,  
> except for the fools'
> chorus that is a traditional part of this festival, where they array
> themselves and sing antiphonally across the grease pit: "Silicone  
> fluid is bad"
> and from the other side, "Glycol Fluid is bad."
>
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun  9 12:21:41 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 14:21:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
References: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33><001c01cb0799$9d2b1c30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<D5399D89B34F44F7BAC669265F3F8C0B@PetePC>
Message-ID: <000501cb0800$9c0e5bc0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

AutoZone and Advanced switched over to Valvoline Dot 4.  Haven't tried that 
one personally.

Oh yea,  ED carries the Castrol too.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner at verizon.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid


> All of the big 3 carry it (Moss, VB, Roadster Factory).  I used to see it 
> in Auto Zone but haven't seen it there in a while.
> Pete
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <pennell at cox.net>; "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com>; "David Nock" 
> <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 2:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
>
>
>> Moss
>>
>>
> . _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 12:22:44 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 11:22:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <BAY147-w483EF254B702BF13794932B8D70@phx.gbl>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC> 
	<AANLkTil7stT-upCp4iEQCchGOxkZ2S1KOZW9i5cYOOhE@mail.gmail.com> 
	<4C0FCCD0.6030900@att.net>
	<BAY147-w483EF254B702BF13794932B8D70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilmfH0COXfaNXUhgoCazGGJhmwH-wx9NEi6InFW@mail.gmail.com>

Magdalena, is one of my favorite Zappa songs. My younger sister went to
school with Moon Unit ....

On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 10:46 AM, <robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> But ... do we never get to talk about firearms and Zappa music?  :)
>
> ( Oh, I'll pay for that! )
> Robert Duquette
>
> Ottawa ON Canada
>
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen
> )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg
>
>
>
> > Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 13:18:08 -0400
> > From: robertlarson at att.net
> >
> > Yes, lets rehash the different oils and get that out of the way so we
> > can get back to our regular scheduled program on tire sizes and choices.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > On 6/9/2010 12:31 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> > > wow!! Brake fluid again????
> > > ARCHIVES!!!!!
> > > Anyone care to talk about engine/transmission oils?? Its been what 3
> weeks
> > > since we wrote about that...
> > > Yes I know I'm being cranky
> > >
> > > On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 8:57 AM, Ken Taplin<ktaplin1934 at gmail.com>
>  wrote:
> > >
> > >> Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun  9 12:26:04 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 13:26:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C0FCCD0.6030900@att.net>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
	<AANLkTil7stT-upCp4iEQCchGOxkZ2S1KOZW9i5cYOOhE@mail.gmail.com>
	<4C0FCCD0.6030900@att.net>
Message-ID: <4C0FDCBC.7040501@justbrits.com>

<< Yes, lets rehash the different oils and get that out of the way so we 
can
get back to our regular scheduled program on tire sizes and choices.  >>

Then we can "graduate" to Positive vs Negative Earths,
right Bob ???

LMAO

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Wed Jun  9 12:29:13 2010
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 14:29:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol
Message-ID: <000f01cb0801$aa3b8cd0$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

I use only silicone as per my chief mechanic, Harry.  The maid for my Geneva
digs reports that my Ferrari Grand Turismo Omologato, on display in its glass
showroom cantilevered out over Lake Geneva, is leaving no traces on the
hand-burnished copper floor.

Peter

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 12:44:31 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 11:44:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C0FD525.4010903@comcast.net>
References: <20100609131252.FK0LY.174974.root@pamxwww01-z01>
	<4C0FD525.4010903@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C0FE10F.7040506@comcast.net>

Since at least 2 Listers (myself and another) have had problems with 
DoT4 crystallizing in brake systems in cars that sat for extended 
periods (a couple years), I'm wondering why this is, and why cars that 
don't sit don't seem to have the problem.  My guess: the heat and 
agitation from using brakes keeps whatever tends to crystallize in 
solution. 

FWIW, one of the few/only ways to determine antifreeze 
poisoning--antifreeze being another form of glycol--is to examine liver 
and kidney tissues for crystalline precipitation.  I believe the 
substance is an oxalate.


bs


"The United States armed forces have standardised on silicone brake 
fluid since the 1990s."--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

What a bunch of snobs.

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From mslechta at chartermi.net  Wed Jun  9 12:48:06 2010
From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 13:48:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C0FC0E5.6030106@comcast.net>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
	<4C0FC0E5.6030106@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D4A3C82B8180489F9EC840E26190A520@MikesLaptop>

What does "IMO" mean??
Mad Mike
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Spidell
  To: Ken Taplin
  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 11:27 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid


  re: "Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal."

  Uncalled-for, IMO.

  bs



  Ken Taplin wrote:
  > Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal.
  >
  >
  >


  --
  *******************************************************************
  Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

  *******************************************************************
  _______________________________________________
  Healeys at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Jun  9 12:55:19 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 12:55:19 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <60132.278fd50b.39413160@aol.com>
References: <60132.278fd50b.39413160@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B3E977BC3EEA45569F3D8D3EEA643D0E@oscar>

Or..
" We must not in the course of public life expect immediate approbation and
immediate grateful acknowledgement of our services. But let us (mechanics)
persevere thru abuse and even injury. The internal satisfaction of a good
conscience is always present and time will do us justice in the minds of the
people, even of those at present the most prejudiced against us."   Benjamin
Franklin

> 
> "The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there
> is no good evidence either way."
> 
> *--Bertrand Russell,
> British philosopher, logician, mathematician and historian* (and LBC
> owner, maybe?)
> 



On a similar note:

"In any dispute the intensity of feeling is inversely proportional to the 
value of the stakes at issue." By way of corollary, it adds: "That is why 
academic politics are so bitter." Sayre's law is named after Wallace Stanley

Sayre (1905-1972), U.S. political scientist and professor at Columbia 
University.

And not so related, but still appropriate in many instances -- could 
occasionally be said about people on this list, if I were feeling really
mean and 
cranky...

"Some people like a Slinky...Not really good for anything, but you still 
can't help but smile when you shove them down the stairs."

Cheers

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 12:58:37 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 11:58:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <D4A3C82B8180489F9EC840E26190A520@MikesLaptop>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
	<4C0FC0E5.6030106@comcast.net>
	<D4A3C82B8180489F9EC840E26190A520@MikesLaptop>
Message-ID: <4C0FE45D.3070808@comcast.net>

IMO==In My Opinion.

However, I shouldn't have qualified that statement.


bs



Mike Slechta wrote:
> What does "IMO" mean??
> Mad Mike
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     *From:* Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>     *To:* Ken Taplin <mailto:ktaplin at gwi.net>
>     *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Sent:* Wednesday, June 09, 2010 11:27 AM
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] brake fluid
>
>     re: "Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob
>     appeal."
>
>     Uncalled-for, IMO.
>
>     bs
>
>
>
>     Ken Taplin wrote:
>     > Silicone fluid does seem to have a certain amount of snob appeal.
>     >
>     >
>     >  
>
>
>     -- 
>     *******************************************************************
>     Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>
>     *******************************************************************
>     _______________________________________________
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 13:54:00 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 15:54:00 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
Message-ID: <69098.27f1e4a8.39414b58@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/9/10 11:44:35 AM, bspidell at comcast.net writes:


> "The United States armed forces have standardised on silicone brake
> fluid since the 1990s."--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
> 

They probably don't use Girling rebuild kits.
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 14:08:29 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 16:08:29 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Slinkies
Message-ID: <6a3ec.689b8f16.39414ebd@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/9/10 1:04:56 PM, cbaustin at verizon.net writes:


> Some people like a Slinky"
>   
>      Or - 'Some people ARE like a Slinky'?
>   
>
>

Who proofreads anymore? -- just get the important words down. Otherwise my
thumbs would get tired and I don't have time to actually read what I type,
anyhow.
u no wot I mean.
G

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 14:44:39 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 13:44:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <69098.27f1e4a8.39414b58@aol.com>
References: <69098.27f1e4a8.39414b58@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinLH0KrW-NwObt0qtOaW32oLB1cZqmqvEJC9rjd@mail.gmail.com>

But Lucas Avionics builds parts for our fight planes and bombers.....
Explains why we don't do night raids anymore ')

On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 12:54 PM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 6/9/10 11:44:35 AM, bspidell at comcast.net writes:
>
>
> > "The United States armed forces have standardised on silicone brake
> > fluid since the 1990s."--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
> >
>
> They probably don't use Girling rebuild kits.
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun  9 15:14:46 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 16:14:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C0FC0E5.6030106@comcast.net>
References: <E53FB7A1CBA24D16A4263424A64D02C8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>
	<4C0FC0E5.6030106@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C100446.2040904@justbrits.com>

<< Uncalled-for, IMO. >>

Gee Bob, I thought "the shoe fit" just fine !!!  LMAO !!!

Ed

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From dwflagg at juno.com  Wed Jun  9 15:22:35 2010
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 17:22:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
Message-ID: <20100609.142250.17206.256902@mailpop03.dca.untd.com>

Where is the Grumman A6, all weather, attack/bomber when you need? Well,
some bureaucrat in Washington decided to scrap it. Ever seen a well shot
up A6 safely return the pilot and BN home. I have and enjoyed a beer, on
them, for the superior product Grumman made. 

Doug

> But Lucas Avionics builds parts for our fight planes and 
> bombers.....
> Explains why we don't do night raids anymore ')
> 
> On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 12:54 PM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> > In a message dated 6/9/10 11:44:35 AM, bspidell at comcast.net 
> writes:
> >
> >
> > > "The United States armed forces have standardised on silicone 
> brake
> > > fluid since the 
> 1990s."--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
> > >
> >
> > They probably don't use Girling rebuild kits.
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage 
> <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
> >
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>   _______                                  _______
>     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>         (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Earn an MBA - No GMAT!
Earn Your MBA From a Top Ranked University without the GMAT. Learn How Now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c10063d664de300b28st04duc

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Jun  9 15:42:45 2010
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 17:42:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The prince of darkness
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinLH0KrW-NwObt0qtOaW32oLB1cZqmqvEJC9rjd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <69098.27f1e4a8.39414b58@aol.com>
	<AANLkTinLH0KrW-NwObt0qtOaW32oLB1cZqmqvEJC9rjd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C100AD5.4080103@earthlink.net>

Lucas (now Goodrich?) supplies engine control systems for some of our 
aircraft engines (Rolls-Royce).  Several years ago I gave a "warm beer" 
bumper sticker to a controls engineer, who put it up in his cubicle. 
Needless to say, a memo came out shortly thereafter about displaying any 
material that might cast a bad light on any of our suppliers.

I watched an episode of "Wheeler-Dealers" yesterday. It's a UK 
television series on Discovery's HD Theater.  They buy a classic car, 
fix it up, and sell it.  In yesterday's episode, they bought a C4 
Corvette and they had some fun bashing the American electrics (dash and 
pop-up headlights).  A different point of view ...

Cheers,
Bob

I Erbs wrote:
> But Lucas Avionics builds parts for our fight planes and bombers.....
> Explains why we don't do night raids anymore ')

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 15:51:47 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 14:51:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinLH0KrW-NwObt0qtOaW32oLB1cZqmqvEJC9rjd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <69098.27f1e4a8.39414b58@aol.com>
	<AANLkTinLH0KrW-NwObt0qtOaW32oLB1cZqmqvEJC9rjd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim1CW0ksS5G7_dqZBN1xWswlDVs_pnPRC0rU2E1@mail.gmail.com>

If Lucas made the weapons systems, wars would not start either.
:-)
Rick

On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 1:44 PM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> But Lucas Avionics builds parts for our fight planes and bombers.....
> Explains why we don't do night raids anymore ')
>
> On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 12:54 PM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 6/9/10 11:44:35 AM, bspidell at comcast.net writes:
> >
> >
> > > "The United States armed forces have standardised on silicone brake
> > > fluid since the 1990s."--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
> > >
> >
> > They probably don't use Girling rebuild kits.
> > Gary

From douglas.barker at videotron.ca  Wed Jun  9 16:02:55 2010
From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (Douglas Barker)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 18:02:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100609.142250.17206.256902@mailpop03.dca.untd.com>
References: <20100609.142250.17206.256902@mailpop03.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <22C13739F49B409E946A4817E852C6B6@douglasPC>

By the way guys-can someone give me the best rad fluid mixture again-do not 
drive in the winter in Montreal?
Thanks
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dwflagg at juno.com>
To: <eyera3 at gmail.com>
Cc: <Editorgary at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid


> Where is the Grumman A6, all weather, attack/bomber when you need? Well,
> some bureaucrat in Washington decided to scrap it. Ever seen a well shot
> up A6 safely return the pilot and BN home. I have and enjoyed a beer, on
> them, for the superior product Grumman made.
>
> Doug
>
>> But Lucas Avionics builds parts for our fight planes and
>> bombers.....
>> Explains why we don't do night raids anymore ')
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 12:54 PM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> > In a message dated 6/9/10 11:44:35 AM, bspidell at comcast.net
>> writes:
>> >
>> >
>> > > "The United States armed forces have standardised on silicone
>> brake
>> > > fluid since the
>> 1990s."--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
>> > >
>> >
>> > They probably don't use Girling rebuild kits.
>> > Gary
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage
>> <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>>   _______                                  _______
>>     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>>         (_________________________)
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com
>>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Earn an MBA - No GMAT!
> Earn Your MBA From a Top Ranked University without the GMAT. Learn How 
> Now!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c10063d664de300b28st04duc
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/douglas.barker at videotron.ca

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Jun  9 16:09:11 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 15:09:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] radiator woes
Message-ID: <AANLkTilZD7fnbBmkYucTSxWjkMQp0RkvFMW11zEl85hq@mail.gmail.com>

So,
 as long as my car is off the road being made all new and purdy like, I
thought I would take my heater and radiator down to a very well regarded
shop and have them check them out. A couple of years back I took it to a
similar sounding shop, (mistakenly thinking it was the better shop)
to have it evaluated for a clean out or new heavy duty core.  Paid for the
new core. it was black and pretty.
I never was impressed with my new radiator, so as stated above, I took it to
the best shop in town.

Well, I found out I paid good money for a black paint job :(they did not
even do a decent job cleaning out the core,but they did crack and poorly
mend my top tank)
Its going to  cost me $425.00  to repair the damage to the tank (see
previous experience), have an improved 20% more efficient core installed and
repair the heater valve pipe on my heater.
-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jun  9 17:15:35 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 19:15:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C100446.2040904@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <20100609191535.CEMJ7.181989.root@pamxwww01-z01>

What was your shoe size again Ed?:)  

A very good fit indeed-----LMAO.


---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" <shop at justbrits.com> wrote: 

=============
<< Uncalled-for, IMO. >>

Gee Bob, I thought "the shoe fit" just fine !!!  LMAO !!!

Ed

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From gmari2 at verizon.net  Wed Jun  9 17:19:41 2010
From: gmari2 at verizon.net (gmari2 at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 18:19:41 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Shocks/Apple Hydraulics
Message-ID: <1418563418.238597.1276125581198.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>


From npaul72464 at aol.com  Wed Jun  9 17:24:29 2010
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 19:24:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Panther Lift
In-Reply-To: <850898.89926.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CCD6420B07D281-17A8-3A2E@webmail-d017.sysops.aol.com>

 I recently ordered a two post Maxjax lift which is designed for home garages.
$2000 & free shipping.  Lots of reviews on line.

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

Ned Paulsen
Webster, NY








-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jun 8, 2010 11:09 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Panther Lift


All,



I have an extremely low ceiling in my garage and I'm really tired of using a

floor jack. I ran across this jack and I am wondering if "we" think it would

work on a Healey.



http://www.pantherlifts.com/Panther/index.php?action=item&id=116&prevaction=c
ategory&previd=3&prevstart=0



Greg

_______________________________________________

Healeys at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 17:44:30 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 16:44:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Slinkies
In-Reply-To: <6a3ec.689b8f16.39414ebd@aol.com>
References: <6a3ec.689b8f16.39414ebd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C10275E.4020103@comcast.net>

Gary,

Put the cellphone down and drive.

Bob


Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/9/10 1:04:56 PM, cbaustin at verizon.net writes:
>
>
>   
>> Some people like a Slinky"
>>   
>>      Or - 'Some people ARE like a Slinky'?
>>   
>>
>>
>>     
>
> Who proofreads anymore? -- just get the important words down. Otherwise my
> thumbs would get tired and I don't have time to actually read what I type,
> anyhow.
> u no wot I mean.
> G
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  9 17:53:36 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 16:53:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Panther Lift
In-Reply-To: <8CCD6420B07D281-17A8-3A2E@webmail-d017.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <506446.25450.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Paul,
That was the other lift I was considering.  You have to drive anchor bolts
into the concrete floor, right? If so, then my garage floor isn't suitable.
 It's 60 year old and crumbling.
My other concern, with Panther lift as well, is where does the jack meet the
car? I'm using the 2X4 on the floor jack method.  What do I lift on with the
Panther or MaxJack?
Greg
--- On Wed, 6/9/10, npaul72464 at aol.com <npaul72464 at aol.com> wrote:

From: npaul72464 at aol.com <npaul72464 at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panther Lift
To: gmandas at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, June 9, 2010, 7:24 PM



 I recently ordered a two post Maxjax lift which is designed for home
garages.  $2000 & free shipping.  Lots of reviews on line.


http://www.maxjaxusa.com/


Ned Paulsen

Webster, NY









-----Original Message-----


From: Greg Mandas <gmandas at yahoo.com>


To: healeys at autox.team.net


Sent: Tue, Jun 8, 2010 11:09 pm


Subject: [Healeys] Panther Lift












All,



I have an extremely low ceiling in my garage and I'm really tired of using a


floor jack. I ran across this jack and I am wondering if "we" think it would


work on a Healey.



http://www.pantherlifts.com/Panther/index.php?action=item&id=116&prevaction
=category&previd=3&prevstart=0



Greg


_______________________________________________


Healeys at autox.team.net


Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html


Suggested annual donation  $12.75


Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


Forums: http://www.team.net/forums


Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/npaul72464 at aol.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun  9 18:25:03 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2010 17:25:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <22C13739F49B409E946A4817E852C6B6@douglasPC>
References: <20100609.142250.17206.256902@mailpop03.dca.untd.com>
	<22C13739F49B409E946A4817E852C6B6@douglasPC>
Message-ID: <4C1030DF.1040908@comcast.net>

Pure antifreeze for max protection against freezing, pure distilled 
water (with a lubricant and anti-corrosive like Water Wetter added) for 
max protection against overheating.

Or a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze for all-around use.  
The antifreeze bottle should have a graph listing the freezing 
protection for various concentrations.


bs


Douglas Barker wrote:
> By the way guys-can someone give me the best rad fluid mixture 
> again-do not drive in the winter in Montreal?
> Thanks
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coll44 at msn.com  Thu Jun 10 05:39:29 2010
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 07:39:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Problem
In-Reply-To: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>
References: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W10A363E626DC982890F7BCC9D80@phx.gbl>

John,



Sounds like humidity is helping stick the disc to the pressure plate, helped
along by letting the vehicle sit.  Thats what I think happened to me years ago
on my BN4 and more recently with my BJ8.  Problem resolved itself on both cars
when I started driving them on a more regular basis.



Terry Coll  '64 BJ8



> From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 08:25:46 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Problem
>
> I am in the middle of doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7. I put
> about 20 miles on the chassis before taking it to the body shop, and the
> clutch worked perfectly. The chassis sat in a cool, damp corner of the body
> shop for 2 months. After the body was assembled, I went to pick the car up,
> and the clutch would not completely release. In order to drive the car, I
> have to start it with the clutch pedal down and the transmission in gear.
> When I hit the starter button, the car does not try to move, so the clutch
is
> only dragging a little bit...just enough to make impossible to put in gear.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> John Snyder
> 1959 BN7
> 1960 BT7
> 1961 BN7 MK2
> 1962 BT7 MK2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coll44 at msn.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Jun 10 09:08:33 2010
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 11:08:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 door stuck shut
Message-ID: <4C10FFF1.9080409@comcast.net>

I closed the driver's (left) side door on my BT7 the other day and it 
will not open again.  I've removed the inner panel that covers the top 
of the inside of the door.  If I lie across the seats I can see and 
operate the latch mechanism.  All seems to work well and looks like it 
should.  I can see and feel the striker in its latched position.  I also 
loosened the big nut on the back of the striker under the rear fender 
and tried to open the door.  I also tightened that nut to try to pull it 
away from the latch.  Nothing seems to work.
Of course I can't get the inside door panel off of the door because it 
is held on by the door seal at the bottom.
All of the parts are new and have been working fine for over a year.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Charlie
'62 tricarb BT7

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jun 10 09:10:26 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 11:10:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problems #1 & #2
Message-ID: <8CCD6C6310CF648-63C-90E3@webmail-d057.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks to everyone that offered suggestions on our two overdrive problems. I
have ordered a pressure gage & we are planning on inspecting the operating
valve for foreign matter.
Gary Hodson

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Thu Jun 10 09:24:30 2010
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 08:24:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silver paint - IE usually for brake drums
Message-ID: <6E5F5C667C80479D9887D3797B9DB6E2@JerryPC>

I went to Ace Hardware and Home Depot yesterday to get some Silver Rustoleum
spray paint which is what I have been using for the brake drums.   Neither
carries the silver anymore.  Aluminum, chrome, and metallic Silver are the
choices.   The metallic Silver is to metallic, the aluminum and chrome is too
shiny.   Both places carry other brands of paint but none of them had sliver.
Maybe the former silver had the metallic in it and it has faded?

What have you bought lately off the shelves?

Jerry
Bj8
Bn4

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 10 09:58:41 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 08:58:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silver paint - IE usually for brake drums
In-Reply-To: <6E5F5C667C80479D9887D3797B9DB6E2@JerryPC>
References: <6E5F5C667C80479D9887D3797B9DB6E2@JerryPC>
Message-ID: <FECBB513-3650-4254-A480-6312555452CD@sbcglobal.net>

Jerry,  We use krylon or Plasticot for the spray paints we use in the  
shop available at Kragen/ O'Rieleys. I know that the silver was  
original on the brake drums but if you want your chrome wire wheels  
to stand out more paint the drums gloss black.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 10, 2010, at 8:24 AM, Jerry Costanzo wrote:

> I went to Ace Hardware and Home Depot yesterday to get some Silver  
> Rustoleum
> spray paint which is what I have been using for the brake drums.    
> Neither
> carries the silver anymore.  Aluminum, chrome, and metallic Silver  
> are the
> choices.   The metallic Silver is to metallic, the aluminum and  
> chrome is too
> shiny.   Both places carry other brands of paint but none of them  
> had sliver.
> Maybe the former silver had the metallic in it and it has faded?
>
> What have you bought lately off the shelves?
>
> Jerry
> Bj8
> Bn4
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Thu Jun 10 10:04:29 2010
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 12:04:29 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Off Healeys List for at least 6 weeks
Message-ID: <5a8a5.d2aeec2.3942670d@aol.com>

Hi Guys-
 
I am unsubscribing from this LIST while on an extended Cross Country trip  
from June 12-July 24.
 
Maybe I will have the privilege of seeing some of the Listers that I know  
while on the trip. And I really hope you will let me know who you are if we 
are  not already acquainted personally.
 
My trip will include the AHCUSA-Rendezvous at Eugene, OR on June 28-July 2, 
 2010 and the AHCA-Concours at Galena, IL on July 11-16,2010. 
I will have a SIGN IN SHEET located at the Concours area if you would  
kindly sign in and just say "Hi I'm _________."
 
Looking forward to see you somewhere.
 
Just remember that an uneventful trip is what we always hope for in  our 
Healeys.  

 
M. S.  Brantley, Jr.
BJ8-Blackie
HBJ8L/34943
Concours Committee 
Chairman, Judging

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Thu Jun 10 10:14:24 2010
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 12:14:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 door stuck shut
In-Reply-To: <4C10FFF1.9080409@comcast.net>
References: <4C10FFF1.9080409@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001301cb08b7$feaf9bb0$fc0ed310$@com>

Try a jack under the car....place the jack so it raises against the
outrigger.   Don't raise the car off the ground, just take the tension off
the door.

If this works, you might need to replace sills....

-skip-


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 11:09 AM
To: healey list
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 door stuck shut

I closed the driver's (left) side door on my BT7 the other day and it 
will not open again.  I've removed the inner panel that covers the top 
of the inside of the door.  If I lie across the seats I can see and 
operate the latch mechanism.  All seems to work well and looks like it 
should.  I can see and feel the striker in its latched position.  I also 
loosened the big nut on the back of the striker under the rear fender 
and tried to open the door.  I also tightened that nut to try to pull it 
away from the latch.  Nothing seems to work.
Of course I can't get the inside door panel off of the door because it 
is held on by the door seal at the bottom.
All of the parts are new and have been working fine for over a year.
Any suggestions?

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 10 10:41:24 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 09:41:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Off Healeys List for at least 6 weeks
In-Reply-To: <5a8a5.d2aeec2.3942670d@aol.com>
References: <5a8a5.d2aeec2.3942670d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W792810065CFBD0D615014A4D80@phx.gbl>

If you identify your car by color and type Healey, I'll come by to say "Hi" in
Eugene. That is SOME trip in a Healey.
Rich Kahn

> From: MBran89793 at aol.com
> Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 12:04:29 -0400
> To: CNAArndt at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Off Healeys List for at least 6 weeks
>
> Hi Guys-
>
> I am unsubscribing from this LIST while on an extended Cross Country trip
> from June 12-July 24.
>
> Maybe I will have the privilege of seeing some of the Listers that I know
> while on the trip. And I really hope you will let me know who you are if we
> are  not already acquainted personally.
>
> My trip will include the AHCUSA-Rendezvous at Eugene, OR on June 28-July 2,
>  2010 and the AHCA-Concours at Galena, IL on July 11-16,2010.
> I will have a SIGN IN SHEET located at the Concours area if you would
> kindly sign in and just say "Hi I'm _________."
>
> Looking forward to see you somewhere.
>
> Just remember that an uneventful trip is what we always hope for in  our
> Healeys.
>
>
> M. S.  Brantley, Jr.
> BJ8-Blackie
> HBJ8L/34943
> Concours Committee
> Chairman, Judging
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

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From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Thu Jun 10 10:44:58 2010
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 11:44:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Silver paint - IE usually for brake drums
In-Reply-To: <6E5F5C667C80479D9887D3797B9DB6E2@JerryPC>
References: <6E5F5C667C80479D9887D3797B9DB6E2@JerryPC>
Message-ID: <050901cb08bc$44306fd0$cc914f70$@net>

Try this one: Rustoleum Metalic Matte Nickel. Not to metalic and not to
shiny. Dries fast. Looks like zinc plating.

Herb Miller

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 10:25 AM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Silver paint - IE usually for brake drums

I went to Ace Hardware and Home Depot yesterday to get some Silver Rustoleum
spray paint which is what I have been using for the brake drums.   Neither
carries the silver anymore.  Aluminum, chrome, and metallic Silver are the
choices.   The metallic Silver is to metallic, the aluminum and chrome is
too
shiny.   Both places carry other brands of paint but none of them had
sliver.
Maybe the former silver had the metallic in it and it has faded?

What have you bought lately off the shelves?

Jerry
Bj8
Bn4
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 10 12:39:48 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 14:39:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 door stuck shut
Message-ID: <SNT143-w54D5071062FC300EEDB951D4D80@phx.gbl>

The lever inside the latch plate can break and not allow it to be pulled fully
open.  Try and reach in and see if you can pull the lever somehow.  Just
welded mine a few weeks ago in my 57'.  Are you going on the tour on Sat?

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."



_________________________________________________________________
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From paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Jun 10 12:43:15 2010
From: paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk (Paul Baker)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 11:43:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Fluid problem
In-Reply-To: <BACA05E6676242558D7E1E0413FC5699@oscar>
References: <554160.58830.qm@web23407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<BACA05E6676242558D7E1E0413FC5699@oscar>
Message-ID: <404690.96169.qm@web23405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Interesting thought re salt but I don't live near the coast.

Paul



"I've
seen this on cars near the coasts. Salt air is tuff on stuff. This is
not a
definitive opinion, just a guess.."
dave


"I posted this problem on the
Spridget list, but as the problem is not
necessarily Sprite specific, I would
appreciate your thoughts on it.

Last year I fitted new brake and clutch
master cylinders and a new slave cylinder
on my Sprite and used Castrol
Response Super Dot 4, Glycol based brake fluid
(available in the UK) in both
clutch and braking systems .  One year on the
fluid in the Clutch m/c turned
dark grey and very thick and slave and m/c
rubbers failed.  I replaced both
Clutch m/c and slave and flushed system
with fresh fluid.  After a month with
new clutch master/slave cylinders the fluid
is turning grey again.  The fluid
in the brake m/c is fine.  What's causing
the fluid to change colour and go
thick, are the rubber seals disintegrating
or is the fluid oxidising the
castings?  And why the clutch system but not
the brake system as the m/c's
were from the same manufacturer?

I called Castrol Tech Support and they have
not heard of this problem before, but have asked
for a sample of the fluid and
old seals for analysis.  I am also aware of
two other Sprite owners having the
same problems.

Paul

65 Sprite
66 BJ8
67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Thu Jun 10 14:29:50 2010
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 16:29:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 plastic number plate position
Message-ID: <CB4FB1B5-5D52-49A8-8241-EBA4B2B1655F@gmail.com>

List, does anyone have a photo of the correct position of the plastic number
plate on the left side footwell of an early BN1?

TIA,

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Jun 10 16:05:11 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 18:05:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 plastic number plate position
In-Reply-To: <CB4FB1B5-5D52-49A8-8241-EBA4B2B1655F@gmail.com>
References: <CB4FB1B5-5D52-49A8-8241-EBA4B2B1655F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6DAC26685436434780DB6F22338BA0C4@LIFEBOOK>

No problem Randy.

How's this? This car is all original with under 5000 mikes from new, and 
this trim has never been messed with.

Rich Chrysler
Hundred Registrar

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 4:29 PM
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 plastic number plate position

> List, does anyone have a photo of the correct position of the plastic 
> number
> plate on the left side footwell of an early BN1?
>
> TIA,
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of dendekker BN1 023.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of dendekker BN1 014.jpg]

From lantana292 at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 10 17:22:40 2010
From: lantana292 at hotmail.com (Charles Ulrich)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 18:22:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BT7stuck door latch
Message-ID: <BLU144-W1514F1F4EB3849C5CC21188FD80@phx.gbl>

I just went through this with my BT7.  Problem was the aftermarket latch
mechanism.  The striker has a tang on the inboard end which broke off, leaving
the striker engaged while all the rest of the mechanism seems to work.  We had
to completely remove the latch mechanism, which isn't easy with the striker
engaged.  Then we replaced the aftermarket striker with an old one.
Hopefully, you didn't throw away your original!  Good luck!  Charlie Ulrich
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Thu Jun 10 17:49:53 2010
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 19:49:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "M" Carbs
Message-ID: <20100610.165057.979.152793@mailpop08.dca.untd.com>

I have available, from a third party, a set of H6 "M" carbs. They are NOT
originals, but have had the correct numbers etched on the bodies and are
in very good to excellent condition. Also available is a cold air box
patterned from an original. If you have an interest in either, please
contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

____________________________________________________________
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From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 10 18:46:11 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 20:46:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Heat Shields available
Message-ID: <000601cb08ff$7d2d6200$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

For those that are  looking and don't get the Moss magazine, they claim that
they now
carry excellent heat shield sets for all series of the big Healeys.  All
screws , spacers,
and do dads are included.

ED probably carries them too.  )

Just so ya know,   Mark

no $  interest

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 10 20:46:03 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 22:46:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front Bumper Brackets
Message-ID: <000801cb0910$3bd98930$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Which way do the front bumper brackets go?  The brackets are 2 flat steel bars
welded
together.   One bar is straighter than the other.   Does the straighter bar go
to the inside or
outside of the car?

The holes are not lining up either way for me right now so I will have to
enlarge the bracket holes
but I would at least like to get them lined up on the right side to start
with.

Thanks Guys,  Mark

From amalin at mac.com  Thu Jun 10 21:17:41 2010
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 23:17:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 door stuck shut
In-Reply-To: <4C10FFF1.9080409@comcast.net>
References: <4C10FFF1.9080409@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C3074079-B72D-4F3A-802E-C4566211D758@mac.com>

Sounds familiar. The driver's door on my BT7 MkII failed to open while on the
way home from Conclave 2009.  One of the mounting screws for the latch
assembly worked its way loose and fell into a position that prevented the door
from opening.

I could see the errant screw only after removing some of the door seal near
the latch.  The door opened just fine after I retrieved the screw with needle
nose pliers.

Al Malin
Tricarb



On Jun 10, 2010, at 11:08 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:

> I closed the driver's (left) side door on my BT7 the other day and it
> will not open again.  I've removed the inner panel that covers the top
> of the inside of the door.  If I lie across the seats I can see and
> operate the latch mechanism.  All seems to work well and looks like it
> should.  I can see and feel the striker in its latched position.  I also
> loosened the big nut on the back of the striker under the rear fender
> and tried to open the door.  I also tightened that nut to try to pull it
> away from the latch.  Nothing seems to work.
> Of course I can't get the inside door panel off of the door because it
> is held on by the door seal at the bottom.
> All of the parts are new and have been working fine for over a year.
> Any suggestions?
> TIA
> Charlie
> '62 tricarb BT7
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Jun 10 21:34:23 2010
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 03:34:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?clutch_problem?=
Message-ID: <20100611033423.21123.qmail@server278.com>

check the master cylinder rod where it connects to the clutch pedal.   sometimes the hole gets elongated and the pin worn.  at certain positions it works fine, then pin will turn and rod becomes too short.   hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Jun 10 21:53:39 2010
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 03:53:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?brake_fluid?=
Message-ID: <20100611035339.6690.qmail@server278.com>

what kind of brake fluid do aircraft use?  i know i have had some F-4 brakes that glowed cherry red after some heavy braking so i assume it has a higher boiling point.  is it compatible with automobiles?  cost?     hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Jun 10 22:02:27 2010
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 04:02:27 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?glycol?=
Message-ID: <20100611040227.18066.qmail@server278.com>

many years ago i was shown some research that stated pure antifreeze was not as effective as a 50/50 mix of antifreeze.  i have been passing along that info for years.  was i lying then and am i lying now?  hjim

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 10 22:43:51 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 21:43:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys]  New Heat Shields available
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100610213818.01faa3f8@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I read the write-up on the Moss website and if all they say is true I 
have to commend them!
However, they show 4 heat shields for a MKII when it has five. They 
don't show the one under the floor above the muffler for any of the kits.
In addition they do not have the two that are mounted between the 
carbs and engine.
It's a great start though.
John

At 08:46 PM 6/10/2010 -0400, Mark LaPierre wrote:

For those that are  looking and don't get the Moss magazine, they claim that
they now carry excellent heat shield sets for all series of the big 
Healeys......

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 10 22:49:40 2010
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 21:49:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Neither the twain shall meet.
In-Reply-To: <5abd5.1cd1c39d.394121c3@aol.com>
References: <5abd5.1cd1c39d.394121c3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100610214621.01faaa60@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I did not read the original posts but I still forgive you for using a 
double negative. Odd that I find the first way it was used to be 
clearer. Guess I need to go back to for schooling in the correct use 
of my native tongue!!

John

At 12:56 PM 6/9/2010 -0400, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
> > Fact 1: Neither glycol and silicone fluids, used separately, will not
> > harm modern synthetic rubber seals.

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 10 23:08:14 2010
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 22:08:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  radiator woes
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100610215425.01faa7d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Sorry about the loss on the first repair job; for the work you are 
doing now, it seems fair.

A new core for an El Camino, including all labor and materials, was 
$428. It's bigger but the cost of materials is probably marginal 
compared to labor.

Hey, I went to college in Oregon in the 70's and drove a '62 BT7! It 
was so cold and wet all year long I did not need a good radiator! It 
rained so much, even during the summer, that I replaced the radiator 
cap with a big funnel. Sold the healey and moved to California where 
it is warm!

Hee Hee Hee :-)

>From: I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 15:09:11 -0700
>
>So,...Well, I found out I paid good money for a black paint job....
>Its going to  cost me $425.00  to repair the damage to the tank

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun 10 23:08:33 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 22:08:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] glycol
In-Reply-To: <20100611040227.18066.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20100611040227.18066.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4C11C4D1.5000801@comcast.net>

Depends on what you mean by effective.  Pure water transfers heat better 
so, theoretically, your cooling system is more effective, but 
glycol/water mixes have higher boiling points and lower freezing 
points.  Good charts here:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol

bs


healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote:
> many years ago i was shown some research that stated pure antifreeze was not as effective as a 50/50 mix of antifreeze.  i have been passing along that info for years.  was i lying then and am i lying now?  hjim
>
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Jun 10 23:45:27 2010
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 05:45:27 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <69098.27f1e4a8.39414b58@aol.com>
References: <69098.27f1e4a8.39414b58@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W189EF6389E1CFE2E373CD2A5D90@phx.gbl>

Well, imagine a couple thousand mil spec vehicles parked in an equipment
concentration site (ECS) for four or five years and suddenly they are called
up for shipment to a war zone. If you have to rebuild the brakes on every
vehicle it's going to be tough to mobilize them on time. Silicon brake fluid
solves that problem.
Bill Lawrence63Z50

> From: Editorgary at aol.com
> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 15:54:00 -0400
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake
fluid
>
> In a message dated 6/9/10 11:44:35 AM, bspidell at comcast.net writes:
>
>
> > "The United States armed forces have standardised on silicone brake
> > fluid since the 1990s."--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
> >
>
> They probably don't use Girling rebuild kits.
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Jun 10 23:58:08 2010
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 05:58:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <4C1030DF.1040908@comcast.net>
References: <20100609.142250.17206.256902@mailpop03.dca.untd.com>,
	<22C13739F49B409E946A4817E852C6B6@douglasPC>,
	<4C1030DF.1040908@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W17C848ED2674C4DDC0D3EA5D90@phx.gbl>

In montreal, even if you don't drive in winter, you had better keep
anti-freeze in it unless you have a heated garage.

> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 17:25:03 -0700
> From: bspidell at comcast.net
> To: douglas.barker at videotron.ca
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net; Editorgary at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silicone vs Glycol (natural or otherwise) brake
fluid
>
> Pure antifreeze for max protection against freezing, pure distilled
> water (with a lubricant and anti-corrosive like Water Wetter added) for
> max protection against overheating.
>
> Or a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze for all-around use.
> The antifreeze bottle should have a graph listing the freezing
> protection for various concentrations.
>
>
> bs
>
>
> Douglas Barker wrote:
> > By the way guys-can someone give me the best rad fluid mixture
> > again-do not drive in the winter in Montreal?
> > Thanks
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Jun 11 00:53:31 2010
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 06:53:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Front Bumper Brackets
In-Reply-To: <000801cb0910$3bd98930$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000801cb0910$3bd98930$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <SNT144-w3557D317F9A3E315BB6897D5D90@phx.gbl>

Mark



The straight side goes to the inside, one of mine was slightly out, I stuck it
in the vice and slipped a scaffolding pole over the end and gave it a tweak.



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/
Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Jun 11 04:08:05 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 06:08:05 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Coolant
Message-ID: <3a33a.167bc9ea.39436505@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/10/10 10:52:41 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> many years ago i was shown some research that stated pure antifreeze was
> not as effective as a 50/50 mix of antifreeze.  i have been passing along
> that info for years.  was i lying then and am i lying now?  hjim
>

Spidell went to the extremes to answer a question that wasn't being asked
quite that way. Yes, in general usage, (left in below freezing conditions for
periods of time, but then driven at standard operating temps) a 50/50
mixture is best, because a pure antifreeze solution won't cool as effectively
as
a 50/50 solution. We run race cars with no glycol because it's slippery on
the track if you spring a leak and the cooling capability is very effective
(we even run without fans), but in a regular car that won't work.
So. If you're living where Spidell is, you can skip the antifreeze and park
outside on all but two nights a year, but in the real worldstick to the
instructions on the container, and go with 50/50. It will be adequate for
anywhere that doesn't require a block heater to keep the car alive.

Cheers
Gary

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Jun 11 06:27:54 2010
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 05:27:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100611035339.6690.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20100611035339.6690.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilBvdsD6po7VF7deA7RHCbRroeyGnr2s_XSHyY6@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

Aircraft use a very specialized hydraulic fluid, at least high performance
aircraft and it's nasty stuff... needless to say blistering paint is the
least of your worries.  Don't go there.

Curt
767 Pilot LAX
Former USMC Pilot

On Thu, Jun 10, 2010 at 8:53 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> what kind of brake fluid do aircraft use?  i know i have had some F-4
> brakes that glowed cherry red after some heavy braking so i assume it has a
> higher boiling point.  is it compatible with automobiles?  cost?     hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Jun 11 06:56:14 2010
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 08:56:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 door stuck shut
In-Reply-To: <C3074079-B72D-4F3A-802E-C4566211D758@mac.com>
References: <4C10FFF1.9080409@comcast.net>
	<C3074079-B72D-4F3A-802E-C4566211D758@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4C12326E.6030806@comcast.net>

Al,
I wish it had been that easy.  See my other email outlining the real 
problem.
Thanks.
Charlie

Al Malin wrote:
> Sounds familiar. The driver's door on my BT7 MkII failed to open while on the way home from Conclave 2009.  One of the mounting screws for the latch assembly worked its way loose and fell into a position that prevented the door from opening.
>
> I could see the errant screw only after removing some of the door seal near the latch.  The door opened just fine after I retrieved the screw with needle nose pliers.
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
>
>
>
> On Jun 10, 2010, at 11:08 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:
>
>   
>> I closed the driver's (left) side door on my BT7 the other day and it 
>> will not open again.  I've removed the inner panel that covers the top 
>> of the inside of the door.  If I lie across the seats I can see and 
>> operate the latch mechanism.  All seems to work well and looks like it 
>> should.  I can see and feel the striker in its latched position.  I also 
>> loosened the big nut on the back of the striker under the rear fender 
>> and tried to open the door.  I also tightened that nut to try to pull it 
>> away from the latch.  Nothing seems to work.
>> Of course I can't get the inside door panel off of the door because it 
>> is held on by the door seal at the bottom.
>> All of the parts are new and have been working fine for over a year.
>> Any suggestions?
>> TIA
>> Charlie
>> '62 tricarb BT7
>>
>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jun 11 07:09:15 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 09:09:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front Bumper Brackets
In-Reply-To: <000801cb0910$3bd98930$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000801cb0910$3bd98930$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <E8D7CDD2D9134E338811139A892CFE31@LIFEBOOK>

Hi Mark,

The front bumper brackets on your 6 cylinder Healey will have (when viewed 
straight down from above) the straight brackets on the inboard side until 
they come to the bumper mounting bosses, where they turn roughly 90 degrees 
inboard. The angled brackets come straight out just so far and then do a 
single outboard angle 'till it gets out to the bumper, then a single angle 
outboard so it can lie flat against the bumper mounting bosses. There should 
be no curving of the brackets in any way, again, when viewed looking 
straight down from above.

Rich Chrysler

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 10:46 PM
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Healeys] Front Bumper Brackets

> Which way do the front bumper brackets go?  The brackets are 2 flat steel 
> bars
> welded
> together.   One bar is straighter than the other.   Does the straighter 
> bar go
> to the inside or
> outside of the car?
>
> The holes are not lining up either way for me right now so I will have to
> enlarge the bracket holes
> but I would at least like to get them lined up on the right side to start
> with.
>
> Thanks Guys,  Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Jun 11 07:59:28 2010
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 09:59:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7stuck door latch
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W1514F1F4EB3849C5CC21188FD80@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-W1514F1F4EB3849C5CC21188FD80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C124140.4010105@comcast.net>

Charlie,
You got the solution!  I'm going to change your terms a bit to explain 
the problem further.  To me the strike is the thing being struck by the 
plunger.  The strike is the thing mounted on the body of the car in the 
door jamb of the B pillar.  The plunger is the thing with the beveled 
end that engages with the strike and inside the mechanism inside the 
door.  There is a lever that both the interior and exterior handles 
interact with to push the plunger toward the front of the car to unlatch 
the door.
The problem as you have explained is the small tang that the lever uses 
to move the plunger can break off.  The reason that it breaks off is 
that the wrong material was used to make the plunger.  The originals 
were made of steel, probably machined from a block.  In the after market 
ones available today which look very nice and match the look and size of 
the originals perfectly, the plunger is cast and then machined.  From 
the gray color of it, it appears to be cast iron, which of course is 
quite brittle and a horrible application for a part like this.  Where it 
broke one can easily see from the graininess that it is cast.  The 
originals are a nice silver colored steel.
Cont. on second email

Charles Ulrich wrote:
> I just went through this with my BT7.  Problem was the aftermarket latch
> mechanism.  The striker has a tang on the inboard end which broke off, leaving
> the striker engaged while all the rest of the mechanism seems to work.  We had
> to completely remove the latch mechanism, which isn't easy with the striker
> engaged.  Then we replaced the aftermarket striker with an old one.
> Hopefully, you didn't throw away your original!  Good luck!  Charlie Ulrich
> _________________________________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Jun 11 07:59:55 2010
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 09:59:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <20100611035339.6690.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20100611035339.6690.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <000801cb096e$5f1a6910$1d4f3b30$@rr.com>

Military aircraft use MIL-H-5606 fluid in their hydraulic systems, including
brakes, but MIL-H-83282 fluid has replaced 5606 in Naval and Marine aircraft
due to its improved fire-resistant characteristic.  Both are petroleum-based
fluids and not silicone (silicone, not silicon!).  I believe the other
services are converting as well.  More info can be had by Googling
MIL-H-5606 and MIL-H-83282.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry 
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 11:54 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid

what kind of brake fluid do aircraft use?  i know i have had some F-4 brakes
that glowed cherry red after some heavy braking so i assume it has a higher
boiling point.  is it compatible with automobiles?  cost?     hjim

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Jun 11 08:01:28 2010
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 10:01:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7stuck door latch
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W1514F1F4EB3849C5CC21188FD80@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-W1514F1F4EB3849C5CC21188FD80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C1241B8.1020003@comcast.net>

Continuation of response:
As you say, keeping the old parts from a restoration is a good idea.  
First I pulled out the old assembly that came from my Healey which had 
all of the die cast zinc parts broken and a plunger that was worn pretty 
badly.  Then I looked in my MG TD box which uses virtually the same 
mechanism and found a very nice original plunger.  Usually on the 
originals the die cast stuff would break necessitating replacement of 
the assembly.
I've still got to get the thing back in the car, but I am happy to come 
up with a solution.
I did get the door open by jacking under the frame where it meets the 
outrigger.  Thanks to those who suggested that.  That does point to some 
flex existing, but there wasn't enough to see.  All of the metal is new, 
so there is no weakness other than designed into the car.  The plunger 
apparently was not engaged in the strike by a large amount and when I 
pulled hard on the door it flew open even though the handles would not 
move the plunger.
Now I guess I have to look forward to the same on the passenger side.
Charlie
PS I have also copied Kelvin Dodd of Moss Motors on this.  I don't know 
if Moss has these made or if they get them from someone else in the LBC 
community, but it is a problem that should be fixed by changing the 
material used for this part.  To look at the new assembly, it appears to 
be of very high quality.  It is a shame that this one thing makes the go 
bad.  Mine was in service for approximately 14 months before this 
happened.  Not a very long time for a car driven less than 2,000 miles.  
Hopefully Kelvin can look into this and get the specification changed of 
the plunger material.

Charles Ulrich wrote:
> I just went through this with my BT7.  Problem was the aftermarket latch
> mechanism.  The striker has a tang on the inboard end which broke off, leaving
> the striker engaged while all the rest of the mechanism seems to work.  We had
> to completely remove the latch mechanism, which isn't easy with the striker
> engaged.  Then we replaced the aftermarket striker with an old one.
> Hopefully, you didn't throw away your original!  Good luck!  Charlie Ulrich
> _________________________________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 11 09:03:07 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 08:03:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch problem
In-Reply-To: <20100611033423.21123.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20100611033423.21123.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <A626A448-D728-422D-8A11-B9BA8373DD4B@sbcglobal.net>

The last tech articles that me dad did was on this exact issue. Look  
in Healey Marque March 2010


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 10, 2010, at 8:34 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> check the master cylinder rod where it connects to the clutch  
> pedal.   sometimes the hole gets elongated and the pin worn.  at  
> certain positions it works fine, then pin will turn and rod becomes  
> too short.   hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jun 11 11:59:45 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 19:59:45 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] TOP DEAD CENTER
In-Reply-To: <C07936AF59614FE383D720CFD7464E7E@ACM030>
References: <C07936AF59614FE383D720CFD7464E7E@ACM030>
Message-ID: <4C127991.4050304@chello.nl>

Clever idea.
Another method is using a sparkplug core with a small diameter piece of 
tube welded in. Bring the piston to TDC as best as you can, apply some 
soapy water over the top of the tube and create by slowly cranking the 
largest bubble possible, that is accurate TDC.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


allen c miller jr wrote:
> My engine builder taught me a failsafe method for finding top dead center with
> (literally) 'dead nutaccuracy'. I have posted a description and photos on the
> Healey Forum maintained by team.net.
>
> I am surprised more listers do not use this forum. there have been scant few
> postings over the last month. it is maintained by the same web server, and
> provides a secure means of sharing photographs. It is also free of the
> wrangles of 'plaint text' encryption inherent in the main list.
>
> signup is easy. register by clicking the hyperlink in the upper right hand
> corner at http://www.team.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=13
>
> allen miller bn2/m
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2931 - datum van uitgifte: 06/11/10 08:35:00

From rcobb at earthlink.net  Fri Jun 11 12:05:37 2010
From: rcobb at earthlink.net (R. Cobb)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 13:05:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] choke issue?
Message-ID: <4C127AF1.4090407@earthlink.net>

Since the carbs on my BJ8 were rebuilt and tuned professionally four
years ago (on the car), I've done little work on them other than keeping
the air cleaners maintained and verifying free movement of the pistons
and maintaining damper oil (ATF) level.

The car has seen little use in the past couple years and I have noticed
the following:
poor gas mileage, compared to previous consumption, and when starting,
with the choke full out, the car starts normally and runs properly for
about 10 seconds and then begins sputtering and running very ragged and
adjusting choke does not improve idle condition.  Often it will stall
and be very hard to restart.  Fuel supply is apparently not an issue, 
since when unable to start note that the overflow tubes are draining. 
Once it does warm up there virtually no problems.

Any suggestions as to specific potential sources of problems?  Reading
the several manuals that I have only seems to muddy the water for me.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jun 11 12:08:30 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 20:08:30 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Fluid problem
In-Reply-To: <554160.58830.qm@web23407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <554160.58830.qm@web23407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C127B9E.80602@chello.nl>

Water ingress?
Kees Oudesluijs


Paul Baker wrote:
> I posted this problem on the Spridget list, but as the problem is not
> necessarily Sprite specific, I would appreciate your thoughts on it.
>
> Last
> year I fitted new brake and clutch master cylinders and a new slave cylinder
> on my Sprite and used Castrol Response Super Dot 4, Glycol based brake fluid
> (available in the UK) in both clutch and braking systems .  One year on the
> fluid in the Clutch m/c turned dark grey and very thick and slave and m/c
> rubbers failed.  I replaced both Clutch m/c and slave and flushed system with
> fresh fluid.  After a month with new clutch master/slave cylinders the fluid
> is turning grey again.  The fluid in the brake m/c is fine.  What's causing
> the fluid to change colour and go thick, are the rubber seals disintegrating
> or is the fluid oxidising the castings?  And why the clutch system but not the
> brake system as the m/c's were from the same manufacturer?
>
> I called Castrol
> Tech Support and they have not heard of this problem before, but have asked
> for a sample of the fluid and old seals for analysis.  I am also aware of two
> other Sprite owners having the same problems.
>
> Paul

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jun 11 12:12:33 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 20:12:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <449BCEED2A1A4B19B377B4FDC28D193D@oscar>
References: <20100608205444.YOMRX.673444.imail@eastrmwml33>
	<894038.53293.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<449BCEED2A1A4B19B377B4FDC28D193D@oscar>
Message-ID: <4C127C91.1080601@chello.nl>

Precious little, if any. As long as you stick to the same spec.
Kees Oudesluijs


Dave Porter wrote:
> What is the fascination with the Castrol brand? Are their chemists adding
> some secret ingredient? I mean, I know the decal says "use only Castrol"
> but exactly what is the difference between brand names?
>  Dave
>
> frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jun 11 12:15:53 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 20:15:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Problem
In-Reply-To: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>
References: <340BAE46B7B34807926BE7D6671EA50E@FRED>
Message-ID: <4C127D59.30000@chello.nl>

Some corrosion on the splines on which the clutch plate slides? Oil 
contamination of the clutch disk?
Kees Oudesluijs


John Snyder wrote:
> I am in the middle of doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7.  I put
> about 20 miles on the chassis before taking it to the body shop, and the
> clutch worked perfectly.  The chassis sat in a cool, damp corner of the body
> shop for 2 months.  After the body was assembled, I went to pick the car up,
> and the clutch would not completely release.  In order to drive the car, I
> have to start it with the clutch pedal down and the transmission in gear.
> When I hit the starter button, the car does not try to move, so the clutch is
> only dragging a little bit...just enough to make impossible to put in gear.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> John Snyder
> 1959 BN7
> 1960 BT7
> 1961 BN7 MK2
> 1962 BT7 MK2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2931 - datum van uitgifte: 06/11/10 08:35:00

From ruvino at ripnet.com  Fri Jun 11 12:26:57 2010
From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 14:26:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] heavy duty headlight wiring harness
Message-ID: <6D565AD874A246FD9780756C23B9BC86@RubinoPC>

Bought this from VB. Directions seem to have been translated from Chinese.

Calls for plugging into headlight closest to battery. In a BN-4 would that be
right or left headlight or does it make a difference since the brown wire is
routed to both sides.?

Carl
BN-4(L)

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Jun 11 13:13:29 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:13:29 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
Message-ID: <467d2.569ea45f.3943e4d9@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/11/10 12:08:16 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> The front bumper brackets on your 6 cylinder Healey
> 

The original bumper brackets also had slots for the bolts that fasten them 
to the frame rails so that once they're bolted in place they can be slid in 
and out to get the proper clearance and angle between the bumper and the 
front of the body. You mentioned drilling new holes -- if you just have round 
holes, you're going to have a bit of a problem getting the bumper to fit and 
look proper. Take a look at someone else's BN/BT7 and make sure you've got 
good replacement parts -- and let me know, since I need to order a set soon 
to replace my bumper.

Cheers
Gary

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Fri Jun 11 14:15:04 2010
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 13:15:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 plastic number plate position
In-Reply-To: <6DAC26685436434780DB6F22338BA0C4@LIFEBOOK>
References: <CB4FB1B5-5D52-49A8-8241-EBA4B2B1655F@gmail.com>
	<6DAC26685436434780DB6F22338BA0C4@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <4C129948.5060908@pacbell.net>

If you look closely at the bodywork under the trim, you can usually see 
little dents or scratches on the metal where the screws holding the 
plate went all the way through.  In addition to my own, I've seen this 
on two other early 100s.

HTH

Bill Barnett
'53 Red Car

On 6/10/2010 03:05 PM, Rich C wrote:
> No problem Randy.
>
> How's this? This car is all original with under 5000 mikes from new, and
> this trim has never been messed with.
>
> Rich Chrysler
> Hundred Registrar
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Randy Hicks"<Healey100M at gmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 4:29 PM
> To: "Healey List"<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 plastic number plate position
>
>    
>> List, does anyone have a photo of the correct position of the plastic
>> number
>> plate on the left side footwell of an early BN1?
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> Randy Hicks
>> www.austinhealey100m.com
>> '56 100 M
>> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
>> '62 BN7 MkII
>> '65 BJ8
>> '53 MGTD
>> Healey100M at gmail.com
>>      
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of dendekker BN1 023.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of dendekker BN1 014.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Fri Jun 11 14:32:25 2010
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 16:32:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] choke issue?
In-Reply-To: <4C127AF1.4090407@earthlink.net>
References: <4C127AF1.4090407@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilc5S8uv-if-xNICYAiCuBa8vWkFtZYYZVM6cHw@mail.gmail.com>

I had a similar problem. Turned out that the rod that raises and
lowers the ( can't think of the name of the orifice that the needle
fits into right now) was corroded and moved very little if at all when
I choked the car for starting or when I pushed the choke knob in. Made
the car hard to start, hard to keep running when it was hot, and I
always had a gassy smell when driving. Got that straightened out and
now it starts easier, runs better and about 4-5 mpg better mileage.
And this was with the problem effecting one carb. Your prob could be
similar, but with the choke in an even more closed position than mine
was.

Bob Johnson
BJ8


> poor gas mileage, compared to previous consumption, and when starting,
> with the choke full out, the car starts normally and runs properly for
> about 10 seconds and then begins sputtering and running very ragged and
> adjusting choke does not improve idle condition.  Often it will stall
> and be very hard to restart.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jun 11 15:05:15 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 17:05:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
In-Reply-To: <467d2.569ea45f.3943e4d9@aol.com>
References: <467d2.569ea45f.3943e4d9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <790F5B7E20D04D069A183A7EB4F8FACB@LIFEBOOK>

If new brackets are needed I can highly recommend those made by Kilmartin 
Sheetmetal of Australia.  On the last two restorations I have used a full 
set of new Kilmartin bumper mounting brackets and they were the best and 
easiest fitting of any I've experienced over the years. They brought 
everything nice and level, and there was a sufficient margin of fitting to 
allow good gaps between bumper, valance and front apron of the body.
If you've ever struggled with poor fitting ones, or originals that have been 
beaten straight, you'll know how significant a statement this is!

Rich Chrysler


--------------------------------------------------
From: <Editorgary at aol.com>
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 3:13 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets

> In a message dated 6/11/10 12:08:16 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
>>
>> The front bumper brackets on your 6 cylinder Healey
>>
>
> The original bumper brackets also had slots for the bolts that fasten them
> to the frame rails so that once they're bolted in place they can be slid 
> in
> and out to get the proper clearance and angle between the bumper and the
> front of the body. You mentioned drilling new holes -- if you just have 
> round
> holes, you're going to have a bit of a problem getting the bumper to fit 
> and
> look proper. Take a look at someone else's BN/BT7 and make sure you've got
> good replacement parts -- and let me know, since I need to order a set 
> soon
> to replace my bumper.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jun 11 15:10:59 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 17:10:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] heavy duty headlight wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <6D565AD874A246FD9780756C23B9BC86@RubinoPC>
References: <6D565AD874A246FD9780756C23B9BC86@RubinoPC>
Message-ID: <11C0DA0F4738407DB4342E11A0D3EAEC@LIFEBOOK>

Hi Carl,

You've lost me there with the brown wire bit. Brown in the Healey wiring 
harness is direct full time battery power.
If you're installing new headlamp wiring pigtails they should be 3 wires per 
pigtail braided together.
Colours should be:
- blue with red tracer (headlamp low beam power feed),
- blue with white tracer (headlamp high beam power feed) and
- black (earth or ground)

Rich Chrysler

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 2:26 PM
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] heavy duty headlight wiring harness

> Bought this from VB. Directions seem to have been translated from Chinese.
>
> Calls for plugging into headlight closest to battery. In a BN-4 would that 
> be
> right or left headlight or does it make a difference since the brown wire 
> is
> routed to both sides.?
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Fri Jun 11 16:06:03 2010
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:06:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] heavy duty headlight wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <11C0DA0F4738407DB4342E11A0D3EAEC@LIFEBOOK>
References: <6D565AD874A246FD9780756C23B9BC86@RubinoPC>
	<11C0DA0F4738407DB4342E11A0D3EAEC@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <B4ADC8B6-AAEA-4B73-BEF8-91868326B5E6@cox.net>

Using a high current headlight kit with a relay, you want to tap into  
the brown for the headlight power. The relay works off the switch.

Google installation instructions for off-road. light kits.

On Jun 11, 2010, at 2:10 PM, Rich C wrote:

> Hi Carl,
>
> You've lost me there with the brown wire bit. Brown in the Healey  
> wiring harness is direct full time battery power.
> If you're installing new headlamp wiring pigtails they should be 3  
> wires per pigtail braided together.
> Colours should be:
> - blue with red tracer (headlamp low beam power feed),
> - blue with white tracer (headlamp high beam power feed) and
> - black (earth or ground)
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 2:26 PM
> To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] heavy duty headlight wiring harness
>
>> Bought this from VB. Directions seem to have been translated from  
>> Chinese.
>>
>> Calls for plugging into headlight closest to battery. In a BN-4  
>> would that be
>> right or left headlight or does it make a difference since the  
>> brown wire is
>> routed to both sides.?
>>
>> Carl
>> BN-4(L)
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 11 18:33:31 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 20:33:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
References: <467d2.569ea45f.3943e4d9@aol.com>
	<790F5B7E20D04D069A183A7EB4F8FACB@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <000e01cb09c6$e2c7f180$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Thanks guys ,  I'll go the Kilmartin route.  My brackets are showing their 
40 years.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: <Editorgary at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets


> If new brackets are needed I can highly recommend those made by Kilmartin 
> Sheetmetal of Australia.  On the last two restorations I have used a full 
> set of new Kilmartin bumper mounting brackets and they were the best and 
> easiest fitting of any I've experienced over the years. They brought 
> everything nice and level, and there was a sufficient margin of fitting to 
> allow good gaps between bumper, valance and front apron of the body.
> If you've ever struggled with poor fitting ones, or originals that have 
> been beaten straight, you'll know how significant a statement this is!
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <Editorgary at aol.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 3:13 PM
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
>
>> In a message dated 6/11/10 12:08:16 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
>> writes:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> The front bumper brackets on your 6 cylinder Healey
>>>
>>
>> The original bumper brackets also had slots for the bolts that fasten 
>> them
>> to the frame rails so that once they're bolted in place they can be slid 
>> in
>> and out to get the proper clearance and angle between the bumper and the
>> front of the body. You mentioned drilling new holes -- if you just have 
>> round
>> holes, you're going to have a bit of a problem getting the bumper to fit 
>> and
>> look proper. Take a look at someone else's BN/BT7 and make sure you've 
>> got
>> good replacement parts -- and let me know, since I need to order a set 
>> soon
>> to replace my bumper.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Gary
 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From BEAU2EVE at aol.com  Fri Jun 11 18:34:35 2010
From: BEAU2EVE at aol.com (BEAU2EVE at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 20:34:35 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
Message-ID: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>

I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but  
where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50 weight. 
 
 
 
   Beau in New England

From raymead at comcast.net  Fri Jun 11 19:05:33 2010
From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 01:05:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] "Nu-chrome Restoration" near Boston........?????????????
Message-ID: <163553137.4932331276304733160.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

hello all,



anyone know these people?B  any comments?B 

they are in Fall River, Mass...... I met the guy at Carlisle Ford and am
thinking about using them for some chrome work........



tks, ray

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jun 11 19:45:23 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 09:45:23 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>

Beau -

Bog standard non detergent 30 Weight,

or if you want to spend alot of money:

Redline MTL or MT90.

50 weight is too thick for the OD.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Sat, Jun 12, 2010 at 8:34 AM, <BEAU2EVE at aol.com> wrote:

> I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but
> where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50 weight.
>
>
>
>   Beau in New England
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From britcrs at gmail.com  Fri Jun 11 19:58:14 2010
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 18:58:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikrh82_iC-5wQRvxNG4gHAX0clFXG1DQzb6f65P@mail.gmail.com>

I think 30 wt is generally recommended. Auto Zone has 30 wt non detergent in
their house brand. I bought some there this week.

Marv James

On Fri, Jun 11, 2010 at 5:34 PM, <BEAU2EVE at aol.com> wrote:

> I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but
> where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50 weight.
>
>
>
>   Beau in New England
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Jun 11 19:58:36 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 21:58:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20100611215836.GYE5Z.17596.root@pamxwww04-z01>

Redline MTL, and never look back.  It works noticeable better.

tom
---- BEAU2EVE at aol.com wrote: 

=============
I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but  
where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50 weight. 
 
 
 
   Beau in New England
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Jun 11 20:15:41 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 22:15:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <013001cb09d5$286b3630$7941a290$@net>

I got my last at Pep Boys and it is 30 weight.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BEAU2EVE at aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 8:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil

I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but
where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50 weight.



   Beau in New England
_______________________________________________

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Fri Jun 11 23:20:59 2010
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 01:20:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilBvdsD6po7VF7deA7RHCbRroeyGnr2s_XSHyY6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20100611035339.6690.qmail@server278.com>
	<AANLkTilBvdsD6po7VF7deA7RHCbRroeyGnr2s_XSHyY6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CCD8062D3007C6-7C4-82F6@webmail-m006.sysops.aol.com>

Commercial aircraft use Skydrol that is a phosphate ester base fluid developed
by Monsanto back in about the late 50' or early 60's and is sold by Solutia
now.  It is fire resistant and light weight but needs specially manufactured
rubber parts (O rings) and no plastic other than Teflon coming in contact with
it.  It melts most paints and plastics that come in contact with it.  It is an
irritant to the skin and very painful if gotten into the eyes (ask me).  It is
very nasty stuff and I have worked with it for over 40 years and have
developed a health respect for it. It is very expensive and not meant for
automotive use.  The mineral based hydraulic fluid Mil H-5606 has been almost
completely replaced by Skydrol in commercial aircraft and is used primarily in
the landing gear struts as a shock absorber fluid much like an automobile tube
shock (McPherson strut).  The landing gear is a leg and shock all in one.
Military aircraft, I don't believe, have gone to Skydrol except for maybe
commercial aircraft adapted to military use.  Maybe some military types can
shed some light on that.  The military aircraft I worked on did not ( C-124's,
C-130's & HH3 helo's).  Hope this helps.

Larry
A&P Aircraft Mech.
Retired Airforce Reserve Mech.






-----Original Message-----
From: Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jun 11, 2010 8:27 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid


Jim,
Aircraft use a very specialized hydraulic fluid, at least high performance
ircraft and it's nasty stuff... needless to say blistering paint is the
east of your worries.  Don't go there.
Curt
67 Pilot LAX
ormer USMC Pilot
On Thu, Jun 10, 2010 at 8:53 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
> what kind of brake fluid do aircraft use?  i know i have had some F-4
 brakes that glowed cherry red after some heavy braking so i assume it has a
 higher boiling point.  is it compatible with automobiles?  cost?     hjim
 _______________________________________________
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Fri Jun 11 23:44:14 2010
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 21:44:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Choke_Issue?=
Message-ID: <20100612054414.25097.qmail@hoster902.com>

I had the same problem. Turned out the replacement jets I'd installed - the rear one was a little too large in diameter and hung up in the bore, such that when I pushed the choke in, the return spring would not return it to the upright position. This on spotless carbs which had been rebuilt with no internal varnish or gunk.

A giveaway was that the rocker with the mixture screw flopped up and down easily. If the pivot had been corroded like the other poster, the rocker would have likely been stuck.

Removing the domes with the choke in, the front carb jet was down .09" and the rear was .22".

I dismounted the rear carb, removed the jet and found the replacement was approximately .002" larger in diameter than an old jet in my posession, so I sanded the diameter down with sandpaper and now it works correctly.


-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6 29D with HD8s

From willig at wtnet.de  Sat Jun 12 00:45:09 2010
From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 08:45:09 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
In-Reply-To: <000e01cb09c6$e2c7f180$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <467d2.569ea45f.3943e4d9@aol.com>
	<790F5B7E20D04D069A183A7EB4F8FACB@LIFEBOOK>
	<000e01cb09c6$e2c7f180$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <001501cb09fa$cd60d3a0$68227ae0$@de>

...you should! I just spend three-quarter of a day to cut and
re-weld/re-paint poor fitting replacement brackets.


Thomas Willig

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Mark LaPierre [mailto:lapierrem at sbcglobal.net]
Gesendet: Samstag, 12. Juni 2010 02:34
An: Rich C; Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets

Thanks guys ,  I'll go the Kilmartin route.  My brackets are showing their
40 years.

Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: <Editorgary at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets


> If new brackets are needed I can highly recommend those made by Kilmartin
> Sheetmetal of Australia.  On the last two restorations I have used a full
> set of new Kilmartin bumper mounting brackets and they were the best and
> easiest fitting of any I've experienced over the years. They brought
> everything nice and level, and there was a sufficient margin of fitting to

> allow good gaps between bumper, valance and front apron of the body.
> If you've ever struggled with poor fitting ones, or originals that have
> been beaten straight, you'll know how significant a statement this is!
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <Editorgary at aol.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 3:13 PM
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
>
>> In a message dated 6/11/10 12:08:16 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
>> writes:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> The front bumper brackets on your 6 cylinder Healey
>>>
>>
>> The original bumper brackets also had slots for the bolts that fasten
>> them
>> to the frame rails so that once they're bolted in place they can be slid
>> in
>> and out to get the proper clearance and angle between the bumper and the
>> front of the body. You mentioned drilling new holes -- if you just have
>> round
>> holes, you're going to have a bit of a problem getting the bumper to fit
>> and
>> look proper. Take a look at someone else's BN/BT7 and make sure you've
>> got
>> good replacement parts -- and let me know, since I need to order a set
>> soon
>> to replace my bumper.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Gary
 Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 12 02:42:24 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 04:42:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
	<AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any 
noticeable, serious problems here if
the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there has been 
a lot of hashen going on lately,
so what the heck.  )

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: <BEAU2EVE at aol.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil


> Beau -
>
> Bog standard non detergent 30 Weight,
>
> or if you want to spend alot of money:
>
> Redline MTL or MT90.
>
> 50 weight is too thick for the OD.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 12, 2010 at 8:34 AM, <BEAU2EVE at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but
>> where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50 
>> weight.
>>
>>
>>
>>   Beau in New England
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 12 03:02:52 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 02:02:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] "Nu-chrome Restoration" near
 Boston........?????????????
In-Reply-To: <163553137.4932331276304733160.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <70665.51378.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

If you do a Google search you'll find a number of reviews like these:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194679

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Fri, 6/11/10, raymead at comcast.net <raymead at comcast.net> wrote:

From: raymead at comcast.net <raymead at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] "Nu-chrome Restoration" near Boston........?????????????
To: "AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 11, 2010, 9:05 PM

hello all,



anyone know these people?B  any comments?B

they are in Fall River, Mass...... I met the guy at Carlisle Ford and am
thinking about using them for some chrome work........



tks, ray
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Sat Jun 12 05:23:27 2010
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 11:23:27 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Re (Healeys) clutch problem
Message-ID: <188695.10806.qm@web24006.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

John,

If it's like my experience:-

1. Air got in the hydraulics
2. Corrosion
on master cylinder piston rod stopping the piston returning fully, thus
reducing the stroke of the master cylinder and therefore the stroke of the
slave cylinder.

I have had both of these happen quite recently on a Triumph
Dolomite Sprint based special that had been off the road for some time (very
similar Girling hydraulic system to yours). To see if this is the problem, try
grabbing hold of the rod underneath the clutch pedal and see if you can pull
it out further. Of course you will have to dismantle the master cylinder to
clean the rod up. And I had to bleed the system to get the air out. Then it
worked fine. 

Mike Brooks
56 BN2

John Snyder wrote:
> I am in the middle of
doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7.  I put
> about 20 miles on the
chassis before taking it to the body shop, and the
> clutch worked perfectly. 
The chassis sat in a cool, damp corner of the body
> shop for 2 months.  After
the body was assembled, I went to pick the car up,
> and the clutch would not
completely release.  In order to drive the car, I
> have to start it with the
clutch pedal down and the transmission in gear.
> When I hit the starter
button, the car does not try to move, so the clutch is
> only dragging a
little bit...just enough to make impossible to put in gear.
>
> Any
suggestions?
>
> John Snyder
> 1959 BN7
> 1960 BT7
> 1961 BN7 MK2
> 1962 BT7
MK2

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Jun 12 05:35:49 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 13:35:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
	<AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>
	<001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4C137115.8040900@chello.nl>

There should be no problem using 20w50 engine oil. Several car 
manufacturers specify it for there gearbox and or O/D gearbox i.e. 
Sunbeam, Jensen Healey.
Changing oil on a regular basis in manual gearboxes is paramount as you 
will always have some swarf from the synchro's and the occasional 
grinding the gears in reverse.
I still do not understand the present practice in new cars never to 
change the gearbox oil, often there is not even a drain plug present.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Mark LaPierre wrote:
> Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any 
> noticeable, serious problems here if
> the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there 
> has been a lot of hashen going on lately,
> so what the heck.  )
>
> Mark

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 05:49:23 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 19:49:23 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
	<AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>
	<001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimC-Ym3CdDTqTcwbClZemBG47A5FA88fuRAvAzP@mail.gmail.com>

Mark -

When I was younger and less intelligent, I ran 20/50 in my BJ8 gearbox.

I switched after I noticed that brass and steel was being kept in
suspension in the gearbox and switched first to no detergent 30wt then
later to Redline MT90.  I did so because I was mostly worried about
wearing out the bores in the OD pump.

I definitely noticed an improvement in shifting, and also the fluid
stays cleaner because it lets the wear metals drop to the bottom,
where they should be.

Alan

On 6/12/10, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any
> noticeable, serious problems here if
> the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there has been
> a lot of hashen going on lately,
> so what the heck.  )
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: <BEAU2EVE at aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 9:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil
>
>
>> Beau -
>>
>> Bog standard non detergent 30 Weight,
>>
>> or if you want to spend alot of money:
>>
>> Redline MTL or MT90.
>>
>> 50 weight is too thick for the OD.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '59 Jag Mk IX
>> '64 BJ8
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 12, 2010 at 8:34 AM, <BEAU2EVE at aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but
>>> where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50
>>> weight.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>   Beau in New England
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Jun 12 05:52:11 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 05:52:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com><AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>
	<001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <633D250BE3BB4F13AF3255D562B721E7@oscar>

Mark,
 One could run cooking oil in the unit if they liked the smell of it. The
reason for non detergent or specialty products is to allow the solids to
fall out of solution and not be continually re-circulated prompting
premature ware of the components.
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 2:42 AM
To: Alan Seigrist; BEAU2EVE at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil

Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any 
noticeable, serious problems here if
the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there has been

a lot of hashen going on lately,
so what the heck.  )

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: <BEAU2EVE at aol.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil


> Beau -
>
> Bog standard non detergent 30 Weight,
>
> or if you want to spend alot of money:
>
> Redline MTL or MT90.
>
> 50 weight is too thick for the OD.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 12, 2010 at 8:34 AM, <BEAU2EVE at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but
>> where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50 
>> weight.
>>
>>
>>
>>   Beau in New England
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Jun 12 06:45:33 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 8:45:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4C137115.8040900@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <20100612084533.B0LBD.19046.root@pamxwww06-z01>

I was under the impression that it was the detergent in these oils (20/50, etc) that was the problem when used in the tranny---thus the recommendation for ND oils.  I still highly recommend the appropriate Redline oils.
---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
There should be no problem using 20w50 engine oil. Several car 
manufacturers specify it for there gearbox and or O/D gearbox i.e. 
Sunbeam, Jensen Healey.
Changing oil on a regular basis in manual gearboxes is paramount as you 
will always have some swarf from the synchro's and the occasional 
grinding the gears in reverse.
I still do not understand the present practice in new cars never to 
change the gearbox oil, often there is not even a drain plug present.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Mark LaPierre wrote:
> Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any 
> noticeable, serious problems here if
> the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there 
> has been a lot of hashen going on lately,
> so what the heck.  )
>
> Mark
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 12 06:50:24 2010
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 05:50:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] "Nu-chrome Restoration" near
 Boston........?????????????
In-Reply-To: <163553137.4932331276304733160.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <163553137.4932331276304733160.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <580395.37347.qm@web32907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've been waiting a lot of years for someone to ask for a recommendation for
Nu-Chrome.  Now is my chance to vent.
 
I purchased an original front bumper
for my 62 BN7 at Carlisle a few years ago It needed to be straightened and
re-chromed.  I and asked the salesman from Nu-Chrome if they could straighten
it and Chrome it to Concours quality.  He insured me that they would make it
perfect. I paid them in advance and left the bumper with him.  Eight months
later and several phone calls I finally received it,  It had heavy chisel
marks on the back side that you would cut your fingers, heavy rust around the
mounting brackets and blemishes on the front surface.  I called them and
complained of the poor quality and they said send it back and they would
correct the problem.  I sent it back at my expense and three months later I
received it back with the same rust around the mounting brackets.  They had
ground down the chisel marks with a coarse grinder and now it had a black burn
mark on the front surface the size of a dime.  After two weeks of calling them
I
 finally was able to talk to their quality control manager who just said send
it back and they will make it right.  I asked if I would be reimbursed for all
the shipping and he said no that was my responsibility if I wanted them to
spend more time trying to satisfy me. They had two chances to make it right, I
wasn't giving them a third.   I never sent it back.  Some day I'll find some
one locally to re-chrome it properly.
 
Use them at your own risk.
 
Ron
Mitchell
To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Fri, June 11, 2010 9:05:33 PM
Subject: [Healeys] "Nu-chrome Restoration" near
Boston........?????????????

hello all,



anyone know these people?B  any
comments?B 

they are in Fall River, Mass...... I met the guy at Carlisle Ford
and am
thinking about using them for some chrome work........



tks, ray
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Jun 12 07:02:54 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 07:02:54 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  trans oil
Message-ID: <2FFC9ECA1F794C0D9EFF235F2B04DF6D@oscar>

Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] trans oil

..sorry meant to say "wear" 

frogeye at porterscustom.com

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Jun 12 07:26:05 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 09:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimC-Ym3CdDTqTcwbClZemBG47A5FA88fuRAvAzP@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
	<AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>
	<001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<AANLkTimC-Ym3CdDTqTcwbClZemBG47A5FA88fuRAvAzP@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002d01cb0a32$d05d7760$71186620$@net>

And that is the reason for the magnet on the drain plug -- to make sure that
the metallic particles are held there and not recirculated through the OD.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 7:49 AM
To: Mark LaPierre; BEAU2EVE at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil

Mark -

When I was younger and less intelligent, I ran 20/50 in my BJ8 gearbox.

I switched after I noticed that brass and steel was being kept in
suspension in the gearbox and switched first to no detergent 30wt then
later to Redline MT90.  I did so because I was mostly worried about
wearing out the bores in the OD pump.

I definitely noticed an improvement in shifting, and also the fluid
stays cleaner because it lets the wear metals drop to the bottom,
where they should be.

Alan

From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 07:24:42 2010
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 09:24:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "Nu-chrome Restoration" near
 Boston........?????????????
In-Reply-To: <70665.51378.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <163553137.4932331276304733160.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<70665.51378.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb0a32$9e78a3a0$db69eae0$@com>

Nu-Chrome has done quite a bit of work for me.  I have been satisfied with
the product.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 5:03 AM
To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB; raymead at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Nu-chrome Restoration" near
Boston........?????????????

If you do a Google search you'll find a number of reviews like these:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194679

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Fri, 6/11/10, raymead at comcast.net <raymead at comcast.net> wrote:

From: raymead at comcast.net <raymead at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] "Nu-chrome Restoration" near Boston........?????????????
To: "AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 11, 2010, 9:05 PM

hello all,



anyone know these people?B  any comments?B

they are in Fall River, Mass...... I met the guy at Carlisle Ford and am
thinking about using them for some chrome work........



tks, ray
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From fmags at cox.net  Sat Jun 12 07:31:09 2010
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 08:31:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trans Oil
Message-ID: <A1B19E18A74D4B8682AD73B94F4800CE@FrankPC>

 < I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but
where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50 weight. >
 Beau in New England>

Hi Beau, I found a 40wt non detergent aviation oil.  Aeroshell.  I've used it
in my BJ8 for the 20 years; works great and the gearbox shifts well with the
proper 40 wt.  If memory serves I tried some other weights before I came
acroshell and the gearbox didn't shift as well.

Frank Magnusson
Wichita, KS.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 12 07:38:34 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 06:38:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
	<AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>
	<001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4C138DD7.8010307@comcast.net>

I ran 20W-50 in my BJ8's transmission and O/D for many years--probably 
75K miles or more--with no problems before switching to MT-90.

bs


Mark LaPierre wrote:
> Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any 
> noticeable, serious problems here if
> the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there 
> has been a lot of hashen going on lately,
> so what the heck.  )
>
> Mark


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 07:47:10 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 06:47:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4C137115.8040900@chello.nl>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
	<AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>
	<001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<4C137115.8040900@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <F736AF98-8075-41D4-A374-EB4AB4ACCFD5@gmail.com>

Healeys do not need drain plugs. They are self draining systems ;)

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Jun 12, 2010, at 4:35 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> There should be no problem using 20w50 engine oil. Several car  
> manufacturers specify it for there gearbox and or O/D gearbox i.e.  
> Sunbeam, Jensen Healey.
> Changing oil on a regular basis in manual gearboxes is paramount as  
> you will always have some swarf from the synchro's and the  
> occasional grinding the gears in reverse.
> I still do not understand the present practice in new cars never to  
> change the gearbox oil, often there is not even a drain plug present.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Mark LaPierre wrote:
>> Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any  
>> noticeable, serious problems here if
>> the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there  
>> has been a lot of hashen going on lately,
>> so what the heck.  )
>>
>> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat Jun 12 08:33:53 2010
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 10:33:53 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Fluid
Message-ID: <138de.19a79acb.3944f4d1@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/12/10 5:28:03 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> Redline MTL, and never look back.  It works noticeable better.
>
> tom
>

That's what I've got my money on, as well. remember, you don't change
tranny oil nearly as often as you change engine oil, so the difference between
a
no-name brand, and something that will make the whole system work better is
probably only a penny or two per drive.
Gary

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Jun 12 08:38:46 2010
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 14:38:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?trans_oil?=
Message-ID: <20100612143846.31332.qmail@server278.com>

i tried redline in the trans on the bn6.  did not notice any better shifting and it definitely found a few places to start leaking.  drained it out and replaced with ND30.  still oozes but no real leaks now.  anyone else experience this?  i might try it again since the trans had new gaskets then and maybe they have sealed up better by now.   hjim

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Jun 12 08:42:26 2010
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 09:42:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <002d01cb0a32$d05d7760$71186620$@net>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com><AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com><001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q><AANLkTimC-Ym3CdDTqTcwbClZemBG47A5FA88fuRAvAzP@mail.gmail.com>
	<002d01cb0a32$d05d7760$71186620$@net>
Message-ID: <9B703BE59391488B926910D492BD532C@GregPC>

I have posted this before when the topic has come up, good discussion on the 
subject, actual testing of the different products as they work in the 
overdrive.  Scroll down slightly to get to the relevant article.

http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11

Greg Lemon

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Jun 12 09:51:05 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 11:51:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4C138DD7.8010307@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20100612115106.K1XAF.21073.root@pamxwww06-z01>

You use MT90----------I use MTL----assume there is no problem with either for use in a BJ8?


---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
I ran 20W-50 in my BJ8's transmission and O/D for many years--probably 
75K miles or more--with no problems before switching to MT-90.

bs


Mark LaPierre wrote:
> Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any 
> noticeable, serious problems here if
> the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there 
> has been a lot of hashen going on lately,
> so what the heck.  )
>
> Mark


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 10:18:26 2010
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 12:18:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <20100612143846.31332.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20100612143846.31332.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <D4F3BFB8-B5A5-4B0A-8ED0-8DC19EF78945@gmail.com>

I didn't notice any additional leaks in the BJ8 when I put Redline MTL in 3
years ago.  However, I certainly did when I put it in the 100.

As a result I put the slightly heavier Redline MT90 in the 100. Still leaks as
much as with normal 30 wt non-detergent, but not more!  :-)

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com









On Jun 12, 2010, at 10:38 AM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> i tried redline in the trans on the bn6.  did not notice any better shifting
and it definitely found a few places to start leaking.  drained it out and
replaced with ND30.  still oozes but no real leaks now.  anyone else
experience this?  i might try it again since the trans had new gaskets then
and maybe they have sealed up better by now.   hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 12 12:40:32 2010
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 11:40:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring
Message-ID: <205018.11600.qm@web83910.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

My BJ8 has no rear "driving lights" or license plate light. 
I have stop
lights and turn indicators (indicators appear to be a seperate circuit).

I
have no continuity at tne connector (red wire) in the boot. To me this tehn
tells me the problem is farther forward. 
Where is the next connector for the
red wire?  My diagram has this connector spliting off to the switch and to the
front "pilot" lights which are working. 

Thus the problem could be at this
connector. New wiring harness, bulbs,etc.
TIA,
Bob

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 12 13:16:01 2010
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 12:16:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  radiator woes
In-Reply-To: <E1EA88F9-86D6-4617-BE42-0B1EAE85DC4A@gmail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100610215425.01faa7d0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<E1EA88F9-86D6-4617-BE42-0B1EAE85DC4A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100612120911.01fb0240@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Actually summers in Eugene and the Willamette Valley were quite nice; 
I was exaggerating of course. I enjoyed driving to the swimming holes 
at Wildwood Falls and Sliding Rock near Eugene! It is in the 90's 
today and I am going for a hike and a swim in the river shortly!

Enjoy the summer!

John

At 06:39 AM 6/11/2010 -0700, you wrote:
>Radiator cap with funnel. Very funny, nevrr heard that one;). I grew
>up in LA. Constant sun is overated. Actully summers tend to be dry and
>mild. But spring this year has been monsoon season
>
>I Erbs
>Sent from my iPod

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 12 15:19:58 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 17:19:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
Message-ID: <SNT143-w224B1A3A4A7B59C4EBF842D4DA0@phx.gbl>

The problem:  My 57' 100-6 leaks oil from the front timing cover oil seal
which gets on the pulley and flings the oil inside the engine comp and onto
the underside of the bonnet.  It doesn't do it all the time, but SEEMS to do
it when driven harder and longer.



What I have done:  I removed and replaced the timing cover oil seal (Moss) and
inspected the pully flange surface- it looked ok (no major pitting or
grooves). Now it Still leaks as much oil as before. I have blown through the
air filter hose back through the engine to make sure nothing is clooged and it
seems fine.



What I think may be the issue:  Since it SEEMS to do it when driven harder,
meaning after a harder accel. you can hear the belt slip because oil just got
on it, then the slipping noise goes away as the oil is flung off the belt.  I
think that the engines internal pressure is pushing oil past the seal?  I know
there was alot of talk about the PCV valve to help with the rear main leaking
issue, but has anyone run into the issue with the front timing cover seal?
BTW- I do have the rear main seal kit installed.  Could that be doing its job
and forcing the oil out the front?



Any thoughts?




The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Jun 12 16:17:25 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 18:17:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring
In-Reply-To: <205018.11600.qm@web83910.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <205018.11600.qm@web83910.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CCD8942BB4CBA7-15C8-1D5A5@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>

Bob,
If you have front running lights, but no rear running lights & license plate
light then you must have power to the four red wire connector you mentioned
that sends power to the front & rear. I believe that connector is located on
the left side of the firewall in the engine bay near the throttle linkage.
There is a group of wires that all go down thru a grommet & go to the rear of
the car. Make sure all four of the wires are well seated in the connector. One
of them is the red wire that goes to the connector in the rear. I would
suggest using a test light or a voltage meter to test for power at these
various connections. Connect one lead to a known good ground & the other to
the metal "bullet" on the end of the red wire you want to test. You mentioned
that you have stop lights, so you have a good ground connection on the
stop/running light circuit.
Gary Hodson





-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Brown <blkbt7 at yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jun 12, 2010 1:40 pm
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring


My BJ8 has no rear "driving lights" or license plate light.
 have stop
ights and turn indicators (indicators appear to be a seperate circuit).
I
ave no continuity at tne connector (red wire) in the boot. To me this tehn
ells me the problem is farther forward.
here is the next connector for the
ed wire?  My diagram has this connector spliting off to the switch and to the
ront "pilot" lights which are working.
Thus the problem could be at this
onnector. New wiring harness, bulbs,etc.
IA,
ob
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
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From allen100m at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 12 16:17:19 2010
From: allen100m at yahoo.com (Allen Miller)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 15:17:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] SOS no oil pressure
Message-ID: <17387.72702.qm@web114205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

After two months leading up to the fire-up of my 100m today, I was horrified to find zero oil pressure. Motor turns over rapidly with plugs out, and I removed the pressure gauge line to verify that it was not a clog there.

The motor was rebuilt with all the oiling components placed back on. There was adequate oil pressure before the motor was torn down. The only change is the addition of a Welch oil cooler kit mounted to the spin-off plate, but I don't  see how that would make a difference. 

Am I overlooking something simple? Is there a need to prime the pump somehow? All suggestions are very much needed. 

Thanks

Allen Miller BN2M

From rbeni3000 at wowway.com  Sat Jun 12 16:40:33 2010
From: rbeni3000 at wowway.com (BOB BENISEK)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 18:40:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring
In-Reply-To: <205018.11600.qm@web83910.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1093041657.487747.1276382433941.JavaMail.root@md08.wow.synacor.com>

Cheeck the connector at the left side of the firewall.B There should be a
double connector with four red wires.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brown" <blkbt7 at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 1:40:32 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring

My BJ8 has no rear "driving lights" or license plate light.
I have stop
lights and turn indicators (indicators appear to be a seperate circuit).

I
have no continuity at tne connector (red wire) in the boot. To me this tehn
tells me the problem is farther forward.
Where is the next connector for the
red wire? B My diagram has this connector spliting off to the switch and to
the
front "pilot" lights which are working.

Thus the problem could be at this
connector. New wiring harness, bulbs,etc.
TIA,
Bob
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation B $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sat Jun 12 18:09:12 2010
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 10:09:12 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  SOS no oil pressure
Message-ID: <000001cb0a8c$a7605a80$f6210f80$@net.au>

-----Original Message-----
From: John & Kerry Rowe [mailto:jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au] 
Sent: Sunday, 13 June 2010 9:14 AM
To: 'Allen Miller'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] SOS no oil pressure

Allen
Do you have the adaptor plate bolted on upside down, so the oil holes don't
line up. Check this out. (Don't ask me how I know about this)
John Rowe Qld Australia
BN1  BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allen Miller
Sent: Sunday, 13 June 2010 8:17 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] SOS no oil pressure

After two months leading up to the fire-up of my 100m today, I was horrified
to find zero oil pressure. Motor turns over rapidly with plugs out, and I
removed the pressure gauge line to verify that it was not a clog there.

The motor was rebuilt with all the oiling components placed back on. There
was adequate oil pressure before the motor was torn down. The only change is
the addition of a Welch oil cooler kit mounted to the spin-off plate, but I
don't  see how that would make a difference. 

Am I overlooking something simple? Is there a need to prime the pump
somehow? All suggestions are very much needed. 

Thanks

Allen Miller BN2M
_______________________________________________

From charlieoc at comcast.net  Sat Jun 12 18:21:17 2010
From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 20:21:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Miami Medical
Message-ID: <013401cb0a8e$580138e0$0803aaa0$@net>

Just watched a recorded episode of Miami Medical that featured a 1961 Austin
Healey 3000.   Belong to anyone we know?

 

Charlie

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 12 18:40:02 2010
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 17:40:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring
In-Reply-To: <1093041657.487747.1276382433941.JavaMail.root@md08.wow.synacor.com>
References: <1093041657.487747.1276382433941.JavaMail.root@md08.wow.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <590414.30577.qm@web83909.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Connector on the left side of firewall had a loose wire. Knew the problem
woulld be at that conenctor based on the lights out and those still on.
Just
wasn't sure where to look for the connector.

Thanks
Bob
________________________________
From: BOB BENISEK <rbeni3000 at wowway.com>
To:
Bob Brown <blkbt7 at yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Sat, June 12, 2010 5:40:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring


Cheeck the
connector at the left side of the firewall. There should be a double connector
with four red wires.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brown"
<blkbt7 at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday,
June 12, 2010 1:40:32 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring

My BJ8 has no rear
"driving lights" or license plate light. 
I have stop
lights and turn
indicators (indicators appear to be a seperate circuit).

I
have no continuity
at tne connector (red wire) in the boot. To me this tehn
tells me the problem
is farther forward. 
Where is the next connector for the
red wire?  My diagram
has this connector spliting off to the switch and to the
front "pilot" lights
which are working. 

Thus the problem could be at this
connector. New wiring
harness, bulbs,etc.
TIA,
Bob
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rbeni3000 at wowway.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 19:36:00 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 18:36:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
Message-ID: <4c143601.11ed8c0a.1998.ffffc616@mx.google.com>

How does that work with brass?

-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 6:26 AM
To: 'Alan Seigrist' <healey.nut at gmail.com>; 'Mark LaPierre'
<lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; BEAU2EVE at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil

And that is the reason for the magnet on the drain plug -- to make sure that
the metallic particles are held there and not recirculated through the OD.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

http://www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 7:49 AM
To: Mark LaPierre; BEAU2EVE at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil

Mark -

When I was younger and less intelligent, I ran 20/50 in my BJ8 gearbox.

I switched after I noticed that brass and steel was being kept in
suspension in the gearbox and switched first to no detergent 30wt then
later to Redline MT90.  I did so because I was mostly worried about
wearing out the bores in the OD pump.

I definitely noticed an improvement in shifting, and also the fluid
stays cleaner because it lets the wear metals drop to the bottom,
where they should be.

Alan
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Jun 12 19:43:22 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 19:43:22 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] SOS no oil pressure
In-Reply-To: <17387.72702.qm@web114205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <17387.72702.qm@web114205.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <821AFD697AAF428794FCC29A0AD368CA@oscar>

It is common practice to prime the pump by injecting some assembly lube into
the pickup end. At this point you'll likely have to inject some oil into the
pump via the pressure relief valve or the oil filter outlet. Sometimes
lifting the front of the car so the oil level is higher around the pump
works..
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allen Miller
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 4:17 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] SOS no oil pressure

After two months leading up to the fire-up of my 100m today, I was horrified
to find zero oil pressure. Motor turns over rapidly with plugs out, and I
removed the pressure gauge line to verify that it was not a clog there.

The motor was rebuilt with all the oiling components placed back on. There
was adequate oil pressure before the motor was torn down. The only change is
the addition of a Welch oil cooler kit mounted to the spin-off plate, but I
don't  see how that would make a difference. 

Am I overlooking something simple? Is there a need to prime the pump
somehow? All suggestions are very much needed. 

Thanks

Allen Miller BN2M
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Jun 12 20:32:59 2010
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 02:32:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?SOS?=
Message-ID: <20100613023259.21335.qmail@server278.com>

hope this isn"t your problemb, but last year i helped put a rebuilt motor into an MGB and we could not get oil pressure.  had to drop the pan to check oil pump.  it worked fine, so i took a flashlight and  began to check everything.  the drive spindle for the oil pump was missing.    hjim

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 12 21:49:10 2010
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 20:49:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Look who's back home
In-Reply-To: <590414.30577.qm@web83909.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <250624.90213.qm@web36706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,

56 BN2L 231391 is back from the painter.  The frame and inside panels are painted Reno Red, the outside is in PPG Grey Epoxy for now and will be painted after assembly and final panel fitment.  The Reno Red looks dark in the picture as the car is in the shade.  It is actually quite dark and matches the Pikovnic book and samples I got pretty good.  I might just go a tad lighter for final paint.

A pic taken from my phone at http://www.austin-healey.org/node/2700

Pfew, It only took 6 years to get this far.  I planned a restoration but it turned out more a "rustoration" as frame, floors, footboxes, doglegs, sills, rockers, outriggers, shrouds needed extensive work.  The metalwork was done mostly by Ellery Engel and myself.

The painter, a retired bodyshop-paint teacher who does this to keep himself busy, did a great job on the bodywork taking out the low and high spots without defaulting to filler.  I hope this kind of craftsmanship survives the times.

Some very visible progress at last.

Bert

From allen100m at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 13 05:39:51 2010
From: allen100m at yahoo.com (Allen Miller)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 04:39:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] SOS oil pressure issues
Message-ID: <283345.78891.qm@web114204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Thanks to all of you for your help. I thought it might be a good idea to list all the possibilities and post them to the Forum so that there is a useful checklist for fixing the issues. Here are your inputs, all of which bear investigation. If anyone else has another suggestion, I will include that as well in a post to the Healey Forum (which I am learning to use after a few years of unblissful ignorance it exists).

1. prime the pump by all means possible (through top filler in rocker,  through oil pressure gauge port, or by pumping under pressure through the external oil lines, etc.
2. purge oil lines leading to and from oil cooler of air
3. check for blockages in galleries
4. ensure builder put back any end plugs to oil galleries
5. make sure drive spindle is in place for oil pump; verify pump engaged with cam gearing
6. ensure spin on adapter is upside-up
7. pray to Lucas, bastard child of Vulcan and Venus

I am sure one or all of the above will help

Allen Miller
BN2/M

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Jun 13 06:57:31 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 05:57:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SOS oil pressure issues
In-Reply-To: <283345.78891.qm@web114204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <283345.78891.qm@web114204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikUlXSOxERHFjpsuwcEZyMSQjyUyjc1wIwOQzOo@mail.gmail.com>

Allen -

Also make sure the copper oil feed line for the oil pump isn't
cracked.  Common point of failure on these engines.

Alan

On 6/13/10, Allen Miller <allen100m at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks to all of you for your help. I thought it might be a good idea to
> list all the possibilities and post them to the Forum so that there is a
> useful checklist for fixing the issues. Here are your inputs, all of which
> bear investigation. If anyone else has another suggestion, I will include
> that as well in a post to the Healey Forum (which I am learning to use after
> a few years of unblissful ignorance it exists).
>
> 1. prime the pump by all means possible (through top filler in rocker,
> through oil pressure gauge port, or by pumping under pressure through the
> external oil lines, etc.
> 2. purge oil lines leading to and from oil cooler of air
> 3. check for blockages in galleries
> 4. ensure builder put back any end plugs to oil galleries
> 5. make sure drive spindle is in place for oil pump; verify pump engaged
> with cam gearing
> 6. ensure spin on adapter is upside-up
> 7. pray to Lucas, bastard child of Vulcan and Venus
>
> I am sure one or all of the above will help
>
> Allen Miller
> BN2/M
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Sun Jun 13 07:15:21 2010
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 09:15:21 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] SOS oil pressure issues
Message-ID: <23297.39c8934.394633e9@aol.com>

Start by removing the oil filter and cooler assembly from the engine.  
Remove everything down to the block. Crank the engine and oil should come out.  
If no oil appears your problem is inside the engine.
 
If oil does come out your problem is outside the engine, Systematically  
check all parts for blockage, proper orientation etc.
 
I once had a similar problem on my BN4 with a oil cooler. I removed the  
lines and filled the cooler and lines with oil before reattaching and that  
solved the problem. 
 
 
 
Jim  Werner
Louisville, KY

From grday at btinternet.com  Sun Jun 13 07:44:16 2010
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:44:16 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] SOS oil pressure issues
References: <283345.78891.qm@web114204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BCA7859A86C64D788100FDC4D146D619@user8634b3d69b>

Try filling the oil pump with a very soft grease such as Vaseline when 
assembling.

Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allen Miller" <allen100m at yahoo.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 12:39 PM
Subject: [Healeys] SOS oil pressure issues


> Thanks to all of you for your help. I thought it might be a good idea to 
> list all the possibilities and post them to the Forum so that there is a 
> useful checklist for fixing the issues. Here are your inputs, all of which 
> bear investigation. If anyone else has another suggestion, I will include 
> that as well in a post to the Healey Forum (which I am learning to use 
> after a few years of unblissful ignorance it exists).
>
> 1. prime the pump by all means possible (through top filler in rocker, 
> through oil pressure gauge port, or by pumping under pressure through the 
> external oil lines, etc.
> 2. purge oil lines leading to and from oil cooler of air
> 3. check for blockages in galleries
> 4. ensure builder put back any end plugs to oil galleries
> 5. make sure drive spindle is in place for oil pump; verify pump engaged 
> with cam gearing
> 6. ensure spin on adapter is upside-up
> 7. pray to Lucas, bastard child of Vulcan and Venus
>
> I am sure one or all of the above will help
>
> Allen Miller
> BN2/M
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jun 13 08:34:54 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:34:54 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] TOP DEAD CENTER
In-Reply-To: <20100613130651.E213918A6F458@dd12708.kasserver.com>
References: <20100613130651.E213918A6F458@dd12708.kasserver.com>
Message-ID: <4C14EC8E.9020307@chello.nl>

Eric,
It is one of the most accurate methods I know, providing you have some 
heavy oil on the piston rings and valves for sealing. The nearer you 
initialy get to TDC and the smaller the bubble is you use, the more 
accurate the method. You will have to renew the soapy water when you are 
on TDC first time and then retry with a smaller bubble. You have to 
repeat once or twice but once you have a nearly flat `bubble`/membrane 
you can move your piston one thou and you will see a change in the soapy 
film.
Allans method is only accurate if the crank and piston pin are in the 
same plane as the cilinder center lines, which is in most in line 
engines. If it is of center (as in some V engines) the arc on the pulley 
from left to TDC is not exactly the same as from right to TDC, although 
the difference is very slight.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Eric Frenken wrote:
> Kees, I doubt that you'll come as close to the accuracy as Allen's method.  The piston moves near to nothing a few degrees BTDC and ATDC.
>
> Eric
>
>
> Clever idea.
> Another method is using a sparkplug core with a small diameter piece of 
> tube welded in. Bring the piston to TDC as best as you can, apply some 
> soapy water over the top of the tube and create by slowly cranking the 
> largest bubble possible, that is accurate TDC.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> allen c miller jr wrote:
>   
>> My engine builder taught me a failsafe method for finding top dead center with
>> (literally) 'dead nutaccuracy'. I have posted a description and photos on the
>> Healey Forum maintained by team.net.
>>
>>
>> allen miller bn2/m

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 13 08:42:27 2010
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 10:42:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] June 2010 issue of the Healey Marque magazine
Message-ID: <SNT133-w20D9857ABDB25FD578C619C5DB0@phx.gbl>

I just received my June issue. As usual, Reid has done another great job. But
I need some information. on pp 16-17, there is a spread for a photo ad  of the
BN4 published in 1957. I asked Reid if he knew the publication and he does not
have that info. I have seen the ad in the past, but never spread across 2
pages. Does anyone know what publication  and issue that had this particular
ad.  I have a number of Longbridge ads in my literature collection, but this
ad is certainly unusual



thanks - jim lesher

_________________________________________________________________
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From bn1 at pacbell.net  Sun Jun 13 11:08:08 2010
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 10:08:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SOS oil pressure issues
In-Reply-To: <283345.78891.qm@web114204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <283345.78891.qm@web114204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C151078.6050300@pacbell.net>

Allen,

First try "burping" the spin on oil filter.  Loosen the filter and turn 
the engine over until a little oil leaks out the bottom.  Tighten the 
filter back up and try it again.  This is the easiest and many times all 
that is needed with a spin on filter.

Bill Barnett
'53 Red Car

On 6/13/2010 04:39 AM, Allen Miller wrote:
> Thanks to all of you for your help. I thought it might be a good idea to list all the possibilities and post them to the Forum so that there is a useful checklist for fixing the issues. Here are your inputs, all of which bear investigation. If anyone else has another suggestion, I will include that as well in a post to the Healey Forum (which I am learning to use after a few years of unblissful ignorance it exists).
>
> 1. prime the pump by all means possible (through top filler in rocker,  through oil pressure gauge port, or by pumping under pressure through the external oil lines, etc.
> 2. purge oil lines leading to and from oil cooler of air
> 3. check for blockages in galleries
> 4. ensure builder put back any end plugs to oil galleries
> 5. make sure drive spindle is in place for oil pump; verify pump engaged with cam gearing
> 6. ensure spin on adapter is upside-up
> 7. pray to Lucas, bastard child of Vulcan and Venus
>
> I am sure one or all of the above will help
>
> Allen Miller
> BN2/M

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Jun 13 12:04:07 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 11:04:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SOS oil pressure issues
In-Reply-To: <BCA7859A86C64D788100FDC4D146D619@user8634b3d69b>
References: <283345.78891.qm@web114204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<BCA7859A86C64D788100FDC4D146D619@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <888CB631-7109-488F-AD3E-051E02E2D2D9@gmail.com>

Use Vaseline not white grease or wheel bearing grease. Vaseline will  
melt into the engine oil the first time the engine warms up. The  
others won't.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 13, 2010, at 6:44, "Guy R Day" <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:

> Try filling the oil pump with a very soft grease such as Vaseline  
> when assembling.
>
> Guy R Day
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allen Miller"  
> <allen100m at yahoo.com>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 12:39 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] SOS oil pressure issues
>
>
>> Thanks to all of you for your help. I thought it might be a good  
>> idea to list all the possibilities and post them to the Forum so  
>> that there is a useful checklist for fixing the issues. Here are  
>> your inputs, all of which bear investigation. If anyone else has  
>> another suggestion, I will include that as well in a post to the  
>> Healey Forum (which I am learning to use after a few years of  
>> unblissful ignorance it exists).
>>
>> 1. prime the pump by all means possible (through top filler in  
>> rocker, through oil pressure gauge port, or by pumping under  
>> pressure through the external oil lines, etc.
>> 2. purge oil lines leading to and from oil cooler of air
>> 3. check for blockages in galleries
>> 4. ensure builder put back any end plugs to oil galleries
>> 5. make sure drive spindle is in place for oil pump; verify pump  
>> engaged with cam gearing
>> 6. ensure spin on adapter is upside-up
>> 7. pray to Lucas, bastard child of Vulcan and Venus
>>
>> I am sure one or all of the above will help
>>
>> Allen Miller
>> BN2/M
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Jun 13 14:00:05 2010
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:00:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
Message-ID: <4C1538C5.5010806@earthlink.net>

Listers,

I believe that John Chatham's biography, "Mr. Big Healey", is now 
available from Motorbooks.  They called to confirm that I still wanted 
the book (ordered in Nov) and that it would arrive in 5-10 days.  But 
the website still shows "not yet published": 
http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=42251

Cheers,
Bob

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Jun 13 14:56:22 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:56:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-w224B1A3A4A7B59C4EBF842D4DA0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-w224B1A3A4A7B59C4EBF842D4DA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B472164A94CA4D34B6507CD740506AFA@LIFEBOOK>

I know that allowing the new seal installation in a timing cover to "find" 
it's own centering position is critical to having the seal not leak. It's 
very easy to accidentally allow the tightening of the timing cover bolts to 
draw the cover, and therefore the seal, off centre, in which case it will 
leak badly.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 5:19 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak

> The problem:  My 57' 100-6 leaks oil from the front timing cover oil seal
> which gets on the pulley and flings the oil inside the engine comp and 
> onto
> the underside of the bonnet.  It doesn't do it all the time, but SEEMS to 
> do
> it when driven harder and longer.
> What I have done:  I removed and replaced the timing cover oil seal (Moss) 
> and
> inspected the pully flange surface- it looked ok (no major pitting or
> grooves). Now it Still leaks as much oil as before. I have blown through 
> the
> air filter hose back through the engine to make sure nothing is clooged 
> and it
> seems fine.
>  What I think may be the issue:  Since it SEEMS to do it when driven 
> harder,
> meaning after a harder accel. you can hear the belt slip because oil just 
> got
> on it, then the slipping noise goes away as the oil is flung off the belt. 
> I
> think that the engines internal pressure is pushing oil past the seal?  I 
> know
> there was alot of talk about the PCV valve to help with the rear main 
> leaking
> issue, but has anyone run into the issue with the front timing cover seal?
> BTW- I do have the rear main seal kit installed.  Could that be doing its 
> job
> and forcing the oil out the front?
>  Any thoughts?
>  The Millers

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sun Jun 13 15:12:34 2010
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 17:12:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
In-Reply-To: <4C1538C5.5010806@earthlink.net>
References: <4C1538C5.5010806@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <9267FAE8-48F3-43EE-98F0-264C80DFEE20@mac.com>

Hi Bob,
It is available now. I received my copy from the publisher, Veloce, last week.
Lin Rose
 
On Jun 13, 2010, at 4:00 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:

> Listers,
> 
> I believe that John Chatham's biography, "Mr. Big Healey", is now available from Motorbooks.  They called to confirm that I still wanted the book (ordered in Nov) and that it would arrive in 5-10 days.  But the website still shows "not yet published": http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=42251
> 
> Cheers,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sun Jun 13 15:44:29 2010
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:44:29 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
In-Reply-To: <4C1538C5.5010806@earthlink.net>
References: <4C1538C5.5010806@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <F9BA115E3AAD44008A5B7A85D6EEE3D8@PeterPC>

Got my copy via Pitstop Bookshop in Western Australia last week Bob

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 6:00 AM
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography


> Listers,
> 
> I believe that John Chatham's biography, "Mr. Big Healey", is now 
> available from Motorbooks.  They called to confirm that I still wanted 
> the book (ordered in Nov) and that it would arrive in 5-10 days.  But 
> the website still shows "not yet published": 
> http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=42251
> 
> Cheers,
> Bob

From gstigen at msn.com  Sun Jun 13 15:51:00 2010
From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:51:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
In-Reply-To: <4C1538C5.5010806@earthlink.net>
References: <4C1538C5.5010806@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <SNT114-W5CC97A007888BE44592CEA0DB0@phx.gbl>

Its at Amazon now, $32.97,next day shipping(free), think I'll order it. cheers
Geno

> Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:00:05 -0400
> From: rchaskell at earthlink.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
>
> Listers,
>
> I believe that John Chatham's biography, "Mr. Big Healey", is now
> available from Motorbooks.  They called to confirm that I still wanted
> the book (ordered in Nov) and that it would arrive in 5-10 days.  But
> the website still shows "not yet published":
> http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=42251
>
> Cheers,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com

_________________________________________________________________
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inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jun 13 16:17:56 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 15:17:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <20100612115106.K1XAF.21073.root@pamxwww06-z01>
References: <20100612115106.K1XAF.21073.root@pamxwww06-z01>
Message-ID: <4C155914.6050401@comcast.net>

MT-90 is a little thicker--equivalent, I think, to 20W-50.  MTL is about 
the same as 30W.


bs

Tom Felts wrote:
> You use MT90----------I use MTL----assume there is no problem with either for use in a BJ8?
>
>
> ---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: 
>
> =============
> I ran 20W-50 in my BJ8's transmission and O/D for many years--probably 
> 75K miles or more--with no problems before switching to MT-90.
>
> bs
>
>
> Mark LaPierre wrote:
>   
>> Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any 
>> noticeable, serious problems here if
>> the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there 
>> has been a lot of hashen going on lately,
>> so what the heck.  )
>>
>> Mark
>>     
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From allen100m at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 13 16:51:48 2010
From: allen100m at yahoo.com (Allen Miller)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 15:51:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure obtained
Message-ID: <956305.49757.qm@web114220.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Thanks to everyone who put forth ideas on how to recover oil pressure after rebuild. I obtained it on the first crank after taking the following steps, most of which were in respect of your ideas, plus one I came up with. Don't know which one worked, but one or more did...

1. bought an oil gun and pumped oil into the oil cooler lines from both directions to get all air blocks out of the cooler

2. checked the orientation of the spin-on adapter. it had been put on before the rebuild and worked, so only the Welch insert for the oil cooler lines was a question. On inspection, that piece can go at any angularly orientation because the galleries grooved on both sides receive oil regardless.

3. pumped oil with the oil gun through a clear tube hose clamped to the oil pressure gauge sender connection at the block. after pushing a good pint or so in, I disconnected the gun and watched the oil gravity feed down the clear vinyl tubing. A few pulls back sucked air locks out  of the gallery. 

Pressure built to 18 psi on starter power. The motor kicked over on the first push of the starter, a very satisfying result after months of waiting! 

Thanks again for the inputs.

Allen Miller
BN2/M

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 13 18:17:56 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 17:17:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
In-Reply-To: <SNT114-W5CC97A007888BE44592CEA0DB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <412404.91506.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I'd like to get a copy autographed by John.  Anyone have his contact info?

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 6/13/10, gene stigen <gstigen at msn.com> wrote:

From: gene stigen <gstigen at msn.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, June 13, 2010, 5:51 PM

Its at Amazon now, $32.97,next day shipping(free), think I'll order it.
cheers
Geno

> Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:00:05 -0400
> From: rchaskell at earthlink.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
>
> Listers,
>
> I believe that John Chatham's biography, "Mr. Big Healey", is now
> available from Motorbooks.  They called to confirm that I still wanted
> the book (ordered in Nov) and that it would arrive in 5-10 days.  But
> the website still shows "not yet published":
> http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=42251
>
> Cheers,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com

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_______________________________________________
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 13 18:49:11 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 20:49:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
In-Reply-To: <B472164A94CA4D34B6507CD740506AFA@LIFEBOOK>
References: <SNT143-w224B1A3A4A7B59C4EBF842D4DA0@phx.gbl>,
	<B472164A94CA4D34B6507CD740506AFA@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <SNT143-w19EFDA21B1EB88A89AA96D4DC0@phx.gbl>

I was careful to make sure the seal was centered by installing three bolts
very loose and installing the pulley to center the whole cover.  Now I did
have gasket sealer on both sides of the timing cover gasket, and maybe it
could have inhibited the centering, but I was as careful as I could be.
Snugged the three bolt and then installed the rest.  It wasn't real easy to do
with the engine in the car.  I even put a small amount of silicone sealant
around the oil seal.

I am just at a loss to why it is still leaking. That is why I think it could
be a pressure thing.  Just not sure.



> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
> Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:56:22 -0400
>
> I know that allowing the new seal installation in a timing cover to "find"
> it's own centering position is critical to having the seal not leak. It's
> very easy to accidentally allow the tightening of the timing cover bolts to
> draw the cover, and therefore the seal, off centre, in which case it will
> leak badly.
>
> Rich
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2010 5:19 PM
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
>
> > The problem: My 57' 100-6 leaks oil from the front timing cover oil seal
> > which gets on the pulley and flings the oil inside the engine comp and
> > onto
> > the underside of the bonnet. It doesn't do it all the time, but SEEMS to
> > do
> > it when driven harder and longer.
> > What I have done: I removed and replaced the timing cover oil seal (Moss)
> > and
> > inspected the pully flange surface- it looked ok (no major pitting or
> > grooves). Now it Still leaks as much oil as before. I have blown through
> > the
> > air filter hose back through the engine to make sure nothing is clooged
> > and it
> > seems fine.
> > What I think may be the issue: Since it SEEMS to do it when driven
> > harder,
> > meaning after a harder accel. you can hear the belt slip because oil just
> > got
> > on it, then the slipping noise goes away as the oil is flung off the belt.
> > I
> > think that the engines internal pressure is pushing oil past the seal? I
> > know
> > there was alot of talk about the PCV valve to help with the rear main
> > leaking
> > issue, but has anyone run into the issue with the front timing cover
seal?
> > BTW- I do have the rear main seal kit installed. Could that be doing its
> > job
> > and forcing the oil out the front?
> > Any thoughts?
> > The Millers
>
>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Jun 13 20:50:13 2010
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 02:50:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>,
	<AANLkTilPY4sI13G_mzNkkK7mKn-hKcmT7PXdt_lNGacz@mail.gmail.com>,
	<001801cb0a0b$2ebb83b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W27BA941C5A8F503252DE32A5DC0@phx.gbl>

I've run Castrol 20W-50 in my BN1 Tranny and OD since I got it on the road in
2002. No problems at all. With the advent of the ZDDP controversy I've
switched the engine oil to Castrol 20W-50 4T which is formulated for four
stroke motorcycle engines It still has an API designation of SH/SG. I guess
motorcycles don't use cats.
Bill Lawrence



> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> To: healey.nut at gmail.com; BEAU2EVE at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 04:42:24 -0400
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil
>
> Is anyone running 20/50 engine oil in their tranys any more?   Any
> noticeable, serious problems here if
> the oil is changed every 2 to 3 years?   Sorry to rehash, but there has been
> a lot of hashen going on lately,
> so what the heck.  )
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: <BEAU2EVE at aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 9:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans oil
>
>
> > Beau -
> >
> > Bog standard non detergent 30 Weight,
> >
> > or if you want to spend alot of money:
> >
> > Redline MTL or MT90.
> >
> > 50 weight is too thick for the OD.
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '52 A90
> > '53 BN1
> > '59 Jag Mk IX
> > '64 BJ8
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 12, 2010 at 8:34 AM, <BEAU2EVE at aol.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats but
> >> where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50
> >> weight.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>   Beau in New England
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sun Jun 13 22:51:07 2010
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:51:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
In-Reply-To: <412404.91506.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <412404.91506.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5B3245D7FDE244E398CD3E054DB99ECA@PeterPC>

On page 134 of the book Rick

Cheers

Peter

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; "gene stigen" <gstigen at msn.com>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography


> I'd like to get a copy autographed by John.  Anyone have his contact info?
>
> Rick

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jun 14 00:45:02 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 08:45:02 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4C155914.6050401@comcast.net>
References: <20100612115106.K1XAF.21073.root@pamxwww06-z01>
	<4C155914.6050401@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C15CFEE.4010506@chello.nl>

Both MT-90, MTL, EP-90 and 20W50 should have about the same viscosity as 
straight SAE30.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Bob Spidell wrote:
> MT-90 is a little thicker--equivalent, I think, to 20W-50.  MTL is 
> about the same as 30W.
>
>
> bs

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Mon Jun 14 06:01:13 2010
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 08:01:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
In-Reply-To: <412404.91506.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <412404.91506.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <12E085D1-FA3D-4F1B-970D-98B1A305EDBA@gmail.com>

chatham.john at gmail.com

This is the last email address I saw for him.

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

On Jun 13, 2010, at 8:17 PM, HealeyRick wrote:

> I'd like to get a copy autographed by John.  Anyone have his contact info?
> 
> Rick

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon Jun 14 07:10:28 2010
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 09:10:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator assembly
Message-ID: <4c162a43.1c7ddc0a.798d.3ebc@mx.google.com>

Last weekend I took my trafficator apart for cleaning and relubrication
since the self cancellation function was getting a bit erratic.  (I guess
that this is something one should do every 15 years or so whether it needs
it or not.)  

Inside the unit are two screws brass screws which hold the wires for the
left and right turn signals.  The heads of these screws fit into hexagonal
recesses in the plastic but there is nothing to keep them from falling out
unless the turn signal wires are attached and the nuts tightened. This means
that the wires from the harness have to be attached before the trafficator
is reassembled (which is what I did).  Is this correct or did I miss
something?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun 14 07:25:59 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 06:25:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4C15CFEE.4010506@chello.nl>
References: <20100612115106.K1XAF.21073.root@pamxwww06-z01>
	<4C155914.6050401@comcast.net> <4C15CFEE.4010506@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4C162DE7.2060007@comcast.net>

Kees,

I don't quite understand this statement.  A different viscosity rating 
means, well, the oils have a different viscosity:

"Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a 
standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard 
temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus 
higher SAE code." -- Wikipedia

According to Redline, MT-90 is equivalent to 75W-90 gear oil or 15W-40 
motor oil--not 20W-50 as I recalled incorrectly--and MTL is equivalent 
to 70W-80 gear oil or 5W-30 motor oil. 

The differences may not be noticeable in the bottle, but they are 
measurable.

bs


Oudesluys wrote:
> Both MT-90, MTL, EP-90 and 20W50 should have about the same viscosity 
> as straight SAE30.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>> MT-90 is a little thicker--equivalent, I think, to 20W-50.  MTL is 
>> about the same as 30W.
>>
>>
>> bs
>>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jun 14 07:51:05 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:51:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4C162DE7.2060007@comcast.net>
References: <20100612115106.K1XAF.21073.root@pamxwww06-z01>
	<4C155914.6050401@comcast.net> <4C15CFEE.4010506@chello.nl>
	<4C162DE7.2060007@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C1633C9.2000705@chello.nl>

Bob,
Which means they are all very similar in the temp. range of the gearbox 
at outside temperatures of 10-30:C. For the gearbox not a big deal. 
Allthough 5W30 may be a bit on the thin side for my liking.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Bob Spidell wrote:
> Kees,
>
> I don't quite understand this statement.  A different viscosity rating 
> means, well, the oils have a different viscosity:
>
> "Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a 
> standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard 
> temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus 
> higher SAE code." -- Wikipedia
>
> According to Redline, MT-90 is equivalent to 75W-90 gear oil or 15W-40 
> motor oil--not 20W-50 as I recalled incorrectly--and MTL is equivalent 
> to 70W-80 gear oil or 5W-30 motor oil.
> The differences may not be noticeable in the bottle, but they are 
> measurable.
>
> bs
>
>
> Oudesluys wrote:
>> Both MT-90, MTL, EP-90 and 20W50 should have about the same viscosity 
>> as straight SAE30.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
>> Bob Spidell wrote:
>>> MT-90 is a little thicker--equivalent, I think, to 20W-50.  MTL is 
>>> about the same as 30W.
>>>
>>>
>>> bs
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.829 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2937 - datum van uitgifte: 06/14/10 08:35:00

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 14 08:51:56 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:51:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
In-Reply-To: <000e01cb09c6$e2c7f180$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <467d2.569ea45f.3943e4d9@aol.com>
	<790F5B7E20D04D069A183A7EB4F8FACB@LIFEBOOK>
	<000e01cb09c6$e2c7f180$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <FE915DEC-BB04-49BC-B0B4-82ACBDC9A6E2@sbcglobal.net>

Mark,  The Kilmatin parts are definitly the best way to go when it  
come to all the sheet metals and brackets that are on your Healey. We  
carry  the complete line in stock.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 11, 2010, at 5:33 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

> Thanks guys ,  I'll go the Kilmartin route.  My brackets are  
> showing their 40 years.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C"  
> <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: <Editorgary at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 5:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
>
>
>> If new brackets are needed I can highly recommend those made by  
>> Kilmartin Sheetmetal of Australia.  On the last two restorations I  
>> have used a full set of new Kilmartin bumper mounting brackets and  
>> they were the best and easiest fitting of any I've experienced  
>> over the years. They brought everything nice and level, and there  
>> was a sufficient margin of fitting to allow good gaps between  
>> bumper, valance and front apron of the body.
>> If you've ever struggled with poor fitting ones, or originals that  
>> have been beaten straight, you'll know how significant a statement  
>> this is!
>>
>> Rich Chrysler
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: <Editorgary at aol.com>
>> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 3:13 PM
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumperty Brackets
>>
>>> In a message dated 6/11/10 12:08:16 PM, healeys- 
>>> request at autox.team.net
>>> writes:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> The front bumper brackets on your 6 cylinder Healey
>>>>
>>>
>>> The original bumper brackets also had slots for the bolts that  
>>> fasten them
>>> to the frame rails so that once they're bolted in place they can  
>>> be slid in
>>> and out to get the proper clearance and angle between the bumper  
>>> and the
>>> front of the body. You mentioned drilling new holes -- if you  
>>> just have round
>>> holes, you're going to have a bit of a problem getting the bumper  
>>> to fit and
>>> look proper. Take a look at someone else's BN/BT7 and make sure  
>>> you've got
>>> good replacement parts -- and let me know, since I need to order  
>>> a set soon
>>> to replace my bumper.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Gary
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 14 08:56:01 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:56:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] trans oil
In-Reply-To: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
References: <4248e.45e08dd6.3944301b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <156EBB2C-28A4-4622-9EFA-EC90621E345B@sbcglobal.net>

Non detergent oils are hard to find. We use RedLine MTL gear oil in  
all out transmission. It is a 75/80 wt gear oil which is the  
equivelant to a 30wt engine oil.
Some others on the list use the RedLine 90wt gear oil. This will work  
as well but is a little thicker viscosity. If you have an overdrive  
that is a little slow this will help it come in a little faster.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 11, 2010, at 5:34 PM, BEAU2EVE at aol.com wrote:

> I know this subject has been around before so I'm sorry for repeats  
> but
> where did you guys find your non- detergent oil. An was it 40 or 50  
> weight.
>
>
>
>    Beau in New England
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 14 09:09:27 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 08:09:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Wiring
In-Reply-To: <205018.11600.qm@web83910.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <205018.11600.qm@web83910.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BF8B71DD-55C4-4124-88F3-780AD0F14E55@sbcglobal.net>

There are two locations. The last of the Healey's there was an inline  
fuse tucked up behind the trunk latch bracket. ALso there is a  
connector at the left rear of the trunk that splits to all the lights  
seperatly.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 12, 2010, at 11:40 AM, Bob Brown wrote:

> My BJ8 has no rear "driving lights" or license plate light.
> I have stop
> lights and turn indicators (indicators appear to be a seperate  
> circuit).
>
> I
> have no continuity at tne connector (red wire) in the boot. To me  
> this tehn
> tells me the problem is farther forward.
> Where is the next connector for the
> red wire?  My diagram has this connector spliting off to the switch  
> and to the
> front "pilot" lights which are working.
>
> Thus the problem could be at this
> connector. New wiring harness, bulbs,etc.
> TIA,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Mon Jun 14 09:22:48 2010
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 16:22:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
In-Reply-To: <5B3245D7FDE244E398CD3E054DB99ECA@PeterPC>
References: <412404.91506.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<5B3245D7FDE244E398CD3E054DB99ECA@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <4C164948.6010002@summaventures.com>

I can confirm that it is out because I have just been contacted - although I
haven't seen the book yet - about the use of one of my photos of DD300 at
Goodwood a couple or three years back.

Peter Dzwig

Peter Linn wrote:
> On page 134 of the book Rick
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; "gene stigen" <gstigen at msn.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 10:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Chatham's biography
> 
> 
>> I'd like to get a copy autographed by John.  Anyone have his contact
>> info?
>>
>> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 14 11:22:38 2010
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 10:22:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator assembly
In-Reply-To: <4c162a43.1c7ddc0a.798d.3ebc@mx.google.com>
References: <4c162a43.1c7ddc0a.798d.3ebc@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <80722.72511.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Peter,

This is probably more info than you need but should help you. 
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/trafficator.html 

Ron
________________________________
From: Peter Schauss <rpschauss at gmail.com>
To:
healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, June 14, 2010 9:10:28 AM
Subject: [Healeys]
Trafficator assembly

Last weekend I took my trafficator apart for cleaning
and relubrication
since the self cancellation function was getting a bit
erratic.  (I guess
that this is something one should do every 15 years or so
whether it needs
it or not.)  

Inside the unit are two screws brass screws
which hold the wires for the
left and right turn signals.  The heads of these
screws fit into hexagonal
recesses in the plastic but there is nothing to keep
them from falling out
unless the turn signal wires are attached and the nuts
tightened. This means
that the wires from the harness have to be attached
before the trafficator
is reassembled (which is what I did).  Is this correct
or did I miss
something?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 11:28:50 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 13:28:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-w19EFDA21B1EB88A89AA96D4DC0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-w224B1A3A4A7B59C4EBF842D4DA0@phx.gbl>,
	<B472164A94CA4D34B6507CD740506AFA@LIFEBOOK>
	<SNT143-w19EFDA21B1EB88A89AA96D4DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CCD9FE2FE93789-15A4-2D2D4@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

If you put silicone sealant around the seal lip to pulley joint it probably
won't do any harm, although it could possibly interfere with the rubber lip
seating properly. It sure won't do any good. If you put it around the outside
of the seal housing before installing it in the timing cover it might do a
minor amount of good, but should not be necessary.
If you have the original crankcase breather system installed & functioning as
designed, you should not have any positive pressure buildup in the crankcase
to force oil out the seal.
Are you sure it is the seal leaking & not the timing cover joint?
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
To: richchrysler at quickclic.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Jun 13, 2010 7:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak


I was careful to make sure the seal was centered by installing three bolts
ery loose and installing the pulley to center the whole cover.  Now I did
ave gasket sealer on both sides of the timing cover gasket, and maybe it
ould have inhibited the centering, but I was as careful as I could be.
nugged the three bolt and then installed the rest.  It wasn't real easy to do
ith the engine in the car.  I even put a small amount of silicone sealant
round the oil seal.
I am just at a loss to why it is still leaking. That is why I think it could
e a pressure thing.  Just not sure.

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Mon Jun 14 12:11:16 2010
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:11:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
Message-ID: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>

Lister's,

I am looking for copper core plug wires for my BJ7, that I do not have to
assemble myself.  I never seem to get it right when I try and do it myself.
Moss has the ones you assemble and that is not what I want.  Who has them
assembled?  Has anyone found a suitable substitute for the copper wires?

I am also in need of a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit.  Or, should I
just get a new one?  Is it possible to put a different size bore in my car
and reduce the leg effort needed to depress the pedal?  My youngest daughter
has a difficult time reaching the pedals and depressing the clutch.  I would
like her to be able to drive the car.

Thanks,

Fred
63 BJ7

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon Jun 14 12:23:28 2010
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:23:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator assembly
In-Reply-To: <80722.72511.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4c1673a0.6266e50a.3dcd.21e6@mx.google.com>

Ron,

 

Thanks.  Step B answered my question.

 

- Peter Schauss

 

  _____  

From: Ron Mitchell [mailto:healeyron at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 1:23 PM
To: Peter Schauss; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator assembly

 

Hi Peter,

 

This is probably more info than you need but should help you.  

 

http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/trafficator.html 

 

Ron 

 

  _____  

From: Peter Schauss <rpschauss at gmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, June 14, 2010 9:10:28 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator assembly

Last weekend I took my trafficator apart for cleaning and relubrication
since the self cancellation function was getting a bit erratic.  (I guess
that this is something one should do every 15 years or so whether it needs
it or not.)  

Inside the unit are two screws brass screws which hold the wires for the
left and right turn signals.  The heads of these screws fit into hexagonal
recesses in the plastic but there is nothing to keep them from falling out
unless the turn signal wires are attached and the nuts tightened. This means
that the wires from the harness have to be attached before the trafficator
is reassembled (which is what I did).  Is this correct or did I miss
something?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 12:32:18 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:32:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: need info
In-Reply-To: <W764002694745101276476747@webmail16>
References: <W764002694745101276476747@webmail16>
Message-ID: <8CCDA070DA2C772-EF8-F1F@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com>

Is there a secret or sequence to installing convertible top frame springs?

Gary Hodson




Gary,

Would you post on the web to your cyber Healey buddies

A fellow AHCKC member is restoring a late model Big Healey and would like any
information on how to install the springs for the convertible top. He states
when he purchased the car it did not have springs. He is completing a frame
off restoration to present in Galena

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 12:49:22 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:49:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
In-Reply-To: <8CCD9FE2FE93789-15A4-2D2D4@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <SNT143-w224B1A3A4A7B59C4EBF842D4DA0@phx.gbl>,
	<B472164A94CA4D34B6507CD740506AFA@LIFEBOOK><SNT143-w19EFDA21B1EB88A89AA96D4DC0@phx.gbl>
	<8CCD9FE2FE93789-15A4-2D2D4@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCDA0970083E2C-EF8-1319@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com>

One more thought. I hate to suggest this but is there any chance you installed
the seal the wrong way around? The lip should be toward the inside.
Gary Hodson






-----Original Message-----
From: warthodson at aol.com
To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; richchrysler at quickclic.net;
healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2010 12:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak


If you put silicone sealant around the seal lip to pulley joint it probably
on't do any harm, although it could possibly interfere with the rubber lip
eating properly. It sure won't do any good. If you put it around the outside
f the seal housing before installing it in the timing cover it might do a
inor amount of good, but should not be necessary.
f you have the original crankcase breather system installed & functioning as
esigned, you should not have any positive pressure buildup in the crankcase
o force oil out the seal.
re you sure it is the seal leaking & not the timing cover joint?
ary Hodson

----Original Message-----
rom: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
o: richchrysler at quickclic.net; healeys at autox.team.net
ent: Sun, Jun 13, 2010 7:49 pm
ubject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak

 was careful to make sure the seal was centered by installing three bolts
ry loose and installing the pulley to center the whole cover.  Now I did
ve gasket sealer on both sides of the timing cover gasket, and maybe it
uld have inhibited the centering, but I was as careful as I could be.
ugged the three bolt and then installed the rest.  It wasn't real easy to do
th the engine in the car.  I even put a small amount of silicone sealant
ound the oil seal.
 am just at a loss to why it is still leaking. That is why I think it could
 a pressure thing.  Just not sure.
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 14 13:19:41 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:19:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
In-Reply-To: <8CCDA0970083E2C-EF8-1319@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com>
References: <SNT143-w224B1A3A4A7B59C4EBF842D4DA0@phx.gbl>,
	<B472164A94CA4D34B6507CD740506AFA@LIFEBOOK><SNT143-w19EFDA21B1EB88A89AA96D4DC0@phx.gbl>
	<8CCD9FE2FE93789-15A4-2D2D4@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>,
	<8CCDA0970083E2C-EF8-1319@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT143-w362ECB51EE56872130BBD8D4DC0@phx.gbl>

I just put some silicone on the outside of the seal to make sure it had a good
seal.  As you said probably not necc., but I thought it wouldn't hurt either.
Yep, have it in the right way.  I think Rich may have the solution to re
condition the pulley surface or maybe even to sleeve it (or find a real good
one to replace it).  The surface didn't appear bad, but it seems like the only
logical solution.





To: warthodson at aol.com; stmiller96 at hotmail.com; richchrysler at quickclic.net;
healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:49:22 -0400
From: warthodson at aol.com


One more thought. I hate to suggest this but is there any chance you installed
the seal the wrong way around? The lip should be toward the inside.
Gary Hodson





-----Original Message-----
From: warthodson at aol.com
To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; richchrysler at quickclic.net;
healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2010 12:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak


If you put silicone sealant around the seal lip to pulley joint it probably
won't do any harm, although it could possibly interfere with the rubber lip
seating properly. It sure won't do any good. If you put it around the outside
of the seal housing before installing it in the timing cover it might do a
minor amount of good, but should not be necessary.
If you have the original crankcase breather system installed & functioning as
designed, you should not have any positive pressure buildup in the crankcase
to force oil out the seal.
Are you sure it is the seal leaking & not the timing cover joint?
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
To: richchrysler at quickclic.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Jun 13, 2010 7:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal leak


I was careful to make sure the seal was centered by installing three bolts
ery loose and installing the pulley to center the whole cover.  Now I did
ave gasket sealer on both sides of the timing cover gasket, and maybe it
ould have inhibited the centering, but I was as careful as I could be.
nugged the three bolt and then installed the rest.  It wasn't real easy to do
ith the engine in the car.  I even put a small amount of silicone sealant
round the oil seal.
I am just at a loss to why it is still leaking. That is why I think it could
e a pressure thing.  Just not sure.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

_________________________________________________________________
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 13:53:23 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:53:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CCDA1261CDBA9B-2BA8-33B00@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com>

Fred,
A smaller bore clutch cylinder will reduce the pressure required, but will
require a longer pedal travel. The Healey clutch pedal travel is already quite
long. Perhaps installing a simple bolt on pedal extension which will bring the
pedal closer to the driver will help.
Gary Hodson





-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2010 1:11 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Parts


Lister's,
I am looking for copper core plug wires for my BJ7, that I do not have to
ssemble myself.  I never seem to get it right when I try and do it myself.
oss has the ones you assemble and that is not what I want.  Who has them
ssembled?  Has anyone found a suitable substitute for the copper wires?
I am also in need of a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit.  Or, should I
ust get a new one?  Is it possible to put a different size bore in my car
nd reduce the leg effort needed to depress the pedal?  My youngest daughter
as a difficult time reaching the pedals and depressing the clutch.  I would
ike her to be able to drive the car.
Thanks,
Fred
3 BJ7
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 14 15:18:52 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:18:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <377B36A9-37AC-4F6B-861E-388D794DC650@sbcglobal.net>

Fred. I have the sets in stock and ready to install. You will need to  
do the install onto your cap but they have the plug ends installed

We also have the clutch master cylinder rebuild kits available.

If your daughters problem is the strength to press the pedal you can  
move the position where the push rod attaches. By moving the push rod  
position up 1/2 inch will change the ratio of the clutch pedal and it  
will required less pedal pressure to actuate the clutch.

We had a guy that did this to the brake pedal with out us knowing. He  
brought it is to us to rebuild the brakes. We were unable to get a  
hard brake pedal after bleeding the brakes and all the hoses were  
swelling when you pushed hard on the brake pedal causing a soft pedal.

If her problem is short leg syndrome then there a lot of guys that  
have made pedal extensions.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 14, 2010, at 11:11 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:

> Lister's,
>
> I am looking for copper core plug wires for my BJ7, that I do not  
> have to
> assemble myself.  I never seem to get it right when I try and do it  
> myself.
> Moss has the ones you assemble and that is not what I want.  Who  
> has them
> assembled?  Has anyone found a suitable substitute for the copper  
> wires?
>
> I am also in need of a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit.  Or,  
> should I
> just get a new one?  Is it possible to put a different size bore in  
> my car
> and reduce the leg effort needed to depress the pedal?  My youngest  
> daughter
> has a difficult time reaching the pedals and depressing the  
> clutch.  I would
> like her to be able to drive the car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jun 14 15:25:11 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 23:25:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
In-Reply-To: <8CCDA1261CDBA9B-2BA8-33B00@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com>
References: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CCDA1261CDBA9B-2BA8-33B00@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C169E37.9070300@chello.nl>

If the effort of depressing the clutch is to large you can contemplate 
to plumb into the hydraulic line a remote brake booster.
I did this years ago in a Landrover and it was a great succes.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


warthodson at aol.com wrote:
> Fred,
> A smaller bore clutch cylinder will reduce the pressure required, but will
> require a longer pedal travel. The Healey clutch pedal travel is already quite
> long. Perhaps installing a simple bolt on pedal extension which will bring the
> pedal closer to the driver will help.
> Gary Hodson

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 14 15:37:04 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:37:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CC62C2CB-3D72-4519-8BAB-B7E51DDC5053@sbcglobal.net>

The clutch pedal ratio is 4.89:1. By moving the attachment point up  
1/4" now the ration is 5.5:1 and 1/2" the ratio jumps to 6.3:1



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 14, 2010, at 11:11 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:

> Lister's,
>
> I am looking for copper core plug wires for my BJ7, that I do not  
> have to
> assemble myself.  I never seem to get it right when I try and do it  
> myself.
> Moss has the ones you assemble and that is not what I want.  Who  
> has them
> assembled?  Has anyone found a suitable substitute for the copper  
> wires?
>
> I am also in need of a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit.  Or,  
> should I
> just get a new one?  Is it possible to put a different size bore in  
> my car
> and reduce the leg effort needed to depress the pedal?  My youngest  
> daughter
> has a difficult time reaching the pedals and depressing the  
> clutch.  I would
> like her to be able to drive the car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Jun 14 15:43:53 2010
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 17:43:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C16A299.7000405@earthlink.net>

Fred,

NAPA has pre-assembled spark plug wires.  If I remember correctly, some 
folks have said Tractor Supply is another source.

Bob

Fred Wescoe wrote:
> Lister's,
> 
> I am looking for copper core plug wires for my BJ7, that I do not have to
> assemble myself.  I never seem to get it right when I try and do it myself.
> Moss has the ones you assemble and that is not what I want.  Who has them
> assembled?  Has anyone found a suitable substitute for the copper wires?
> 
> I am also in need of a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit.  Or, should I
> just get a new one?  Is it possible to put a different size bore in my car
> and reduce the leg effort needed to depress the pedal?  My youngest daughter
> has a difficult time reaching the pedals and depressing the clutch.  I would
> like her to be able to drive the car.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

From bj7ah at acanac.net  Mon Jun 14 15:47:48 2010
From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 17:47:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <54E10F6AA1DB4DC6A7132DE1C3EEDD50@robltPC>

I use the set from TSC fam supplies here in Canada, They are made for 
tractors and come in 4 & 6 Cylinder.

                              Bob    1963 BJ7

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 2:11 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Parts

> Lister's,
>
> I am looking for copper core plug wires for my BJ7, that I do not have to
> assemble myself.  I never seem to get it right when I try and do it 
> myself.
> Moss has the ones you assemble and that is not what I want.  Who has them
> assembled?  Has anyone found a suitable substitute for the copper wires?
>
> I am also in need of a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit.  Or, should I
> just get a new one?  Is it possible to put a different size bore in my car
> and reduce the leg effort needed to depress the pedal?  My youngest 
> daughter
> has a difficult time reaching the pedals and depressing the clutch.  I 
> would
> like her to be able to drive the car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah at acanac.net 

From BEAU2EVE at aol.com  Mon Jun 14 18:12:05 2010
From: BEAU2EVE at aol.com (BEAU2EVE at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 20:12:05 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] trans issues
Message-ID: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com>

Hi guys, another issue has popped up this time a trans problem. When I  put 
the switch down to go to overdrive it goes right in smoothly an will stay 
in  as long as I don't give it a lot of gas,the harder I press the pedal it 
will  jump out, going back to 4 and stay there until I back off the gas, I 
just  changed my oil to a straight 30 ND. Owned the car 32 years never a 
problem,  what's the matter with these cars can't they make them to last? 
Seriously, does  this sound like a pressure prob or just solenoid arm  alignment.   
 Beau

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 14 18:32:34 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 20:32:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
References: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
	<CC62C2CB-3D72-4519-8BAB-B7E51DDC5053@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <003101cb0c22$3ffb0d30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

David,  this is a new concept for me.  First time I have heard this idea. 
What do you mean by "moving
the  rod up"?     Up where?       A lighter clutch pedal would make a huge 
difference for me.

While I have your ear,  are the brake and clutch master cylinders suppose to 
be identical on a 60 BT7?

Thanks,   Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts


> The clutch pedal ratio is 4.89:1. By moving the attachment point up
> 1/4" now the ration is 5.5:1 and 1/2" the ratio jumps to 6.3:1
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Jun 14 18:43:16 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 20:43:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: need info
In-Reply-To: <8CCDA070DA2C772-EF8-F1F@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com>
References: <W764002694745101276476747@webmail16>
	<8CCDA070DA2C772-EF8-F1F@Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8C3544B86D4B4679A8A645B89231FA2D@LIFEBOOK>

Gary,

Assuming the anchor brackets are in the right place on the inner sill edge 
right below the top spring mounting bracket, and assuming the Armacord 
spring cover is installed on the spring, attach the coil end into the bottom 
anchor and erect the top. This will bring the upper spring mounting bracket 
closer and not make it such a stretch. Then using a good vice grip, clamp 
onto the upper long straight portion of the spring a couple of inches from 
the hook end, stretch the spring and angle the end through the hole in the 
bracket. repeat for other side.

Rich Chrysler

--------------------------------------------------
From: <warthodson at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 2:32 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: need info

> Is there a secret or sequence to installing convertible top frame springs?
>
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> Gary,
>
> Would you post on the web to your cyber Healey buddies
>
> A fellow AHCKC member is restoring a late model Big Healey and would like 
> any
> information on how to install the springs for the convertible top. He 
> states
> when he purchased the car it did not have springs. He is completing a 
> frame
> off restoration to present in Galena
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of feb 07 009.jpg]

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Mon Jun 14 19:41:55 2010
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:41:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans issues
In-Reply-To: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4c16da61.812fdc0a.1331.5559@mx.google.com>

Beau,

I had a similar problem, interestingly enough, about a year after I switched
from 30 weight nondetergent oil to MTL.  I solved my problem by replacing
the o-ring on the accumulator housing.  While you have the accumulator
assembly out you should probably replace the accumulator piston rings as
well.

The good news is that you can work on the accumulator without removing the
gearbox and overdrive from the car.

HTH,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BEAU2EVE at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 8:12 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] trans issues
> 
> Hi guys, another issue has popped up this time a trans problem. When I
> put
> the switch down to go to overdrive it goes right in smoothly an will stay
> in  as long as I don't give it a lot of gas,the harder I press the pedal
> it
> will  jump out, going back to 4 and stay there until I back off the gas, I
> just  changed my oil to a straight 30 ND. Owned the car 32 years never a
> problem,  what's the matter with these cars can't they make them to last?
> Seriously, does  this sound like a pressure prob or just solenoid arm
> alignment.
>  Beau

From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Mon Jun 14 19:55:54 2010
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:55:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?
Message-ID: <C83C55EA.586C%tjmorrio@colby.edu>

Folks,

I9m rebuilding my BJ8 clutch/brake reservoir and see there9s an aluminum
washer on the outside of the can for the clutch and brake line nipples. But
on disassembly I found a black substance inside the can between the clutch
(small) cylinder reservoir bottom and the can inside bottom. It looks like a
very thin washer of some sort  perhaps butyl or neoprene.  I9ve looked in
the archives and see no mention of it and Moss doesn9t list the part.
Helpful listers I9ve asked have suggested making one  which I can do  but
my question is - is it supposed to be there  or is this likely just residue
from some sealant? (if it is what9s best to use?) There9s no washer inside
the can for the brake line.

TIA,
Tom
BJ8 65 in process

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Mon Jun 14 20:21:10 2010
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 22:21:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans issues
In-Reply-To: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com>
References: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C16E396.5010600@htcnet.org>

That sounds like a relay problem.  If it goes out of OD when you turn 
the switch off while off the gas, the relay is not holding.

John
64 BJ8
66 BJ8
74 Commando

On 6/14/2010 8:12 PM, BEAU2EVE at aol.com wrote:
> Hi guys, another issue has popped up this time a trans problem. When I  put
> the switch down to go to overdrive it goes right in smoothly an will stay
> in  as long as I don't give it a lot of gas,the harder I press the pedal it
> will  jump out, going back to 4 and stay there until I back off the gas, I
> just  changed my oil to a straight 30 ND. Owned the car 32 years never a
> problem,  what's the matter with these cars can't they make them to last?
> Seriously, does  this sound like a pressure prob or just solenoid arm  alignment.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun 14 21:32:48 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 20:32:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BSF Bolts
Message-ID: <4C16F460.5090409@comcast.net>

Anybody got a source?  British Fasteners is out of stock of the ones I need.

TIA,
Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jun 14 23:17:23 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 13:17:23 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BSF Bolts
In-Reply-To: <4C16F460.5090409@comcast.net>
References: <4C16F460.5090409@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilMAhh7H-LLpN5EgdGE_55wg7Z2AOqwtdrbbCL0@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

The two best sources for BSF hardware are:

http://www.polished-stainless.com/

Surplus supplies have the best and most complete BSF / BA collection.  The
prices are very good.  The downside is you usually have to follow up with a
phone call to get your order through.  If you want Stainless Steel, this is
the only source worth dealing with.

The second source is:

namrick.co.uk

You can order off the website and they deliver very quickly and
professionally.  Prices are a little higher though....

Alan

On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Anybody got a source?  British Fasteners is out of stock of the ones I
> need.
>
> TIA,
> Bob

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jun 15 04:06:49 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 12:06:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] trans issues
In-Reply-To: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com>
References: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C1750B9.5060400@chello.nl>

Sounds like it operates the way it should. On many OD systems a kick 
down switch is integrated. When you press the loud pedal in 3rd OD or 
4th OD  the OD will switch off going back to 3rd or 4th. When backing 
off the OD comes in again going to 3rd OD or 4th OD.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

BEAU2EVE at aol.com wrote:
> Hi guys, another issue has popped up this time a trans problem. When I  put 
> the switch down to go to overdrive it goes right in smoothly an will stay 
> in  as long as I don't give it a lot of gas,the harder I press the pedal it 
> will  jump out, going back to 4 and stay there until I back off the gas, I 
> just  changed my oil to a straight 30 ND. Owned the car 32 years never a 
> problem,  what's the matter with these cars can't they make them to last? 
> Seriously, does  this sound like a pressure prob or just solenoid arm  alignment.   
>  Beau
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.829 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2937 - datum van uitgifte: 06/14/10 08:35:00

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 15 06:09:55 2010
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 05:09:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] trans issues
In-Reply-To: <4C1750B9.5060400@chello.nl>
References: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com>
  <4C1750B9.5060400@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <236367.11063.qm@web32901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

That's the way it works in Modern day cars.  Not the way a properly adjusted
Overdrive in a Big Healey is designed to work.  It should only come out of
Overdrive when the switch is turned off and you depress the accelerator pedal.
Enjoy the day
Ron




________________________________
From: Oudesluys
<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: BEAU2EVE at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent:
Tue, June 15, 2010 6:06:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans issues

Sounds like
it operates the way it should. On many OD systems a kick down switch is
integrated. When you press the loud pedal in 3rd OD or 4th OD  the OD will
switch off going back to 3rd or 4th. When backing off the OD comes in again
going to 3rd OD or 4th OD.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

BEAU2EVE at aol.com wrote:
> Hi
guys, another issue has popped up this time a trans problem. When I  put the
switch down to go to overdrive it goes right in smoothly an will stay in  as
long as I don't give it a lot of gas,the harder I press the pedal it will 
jump out, going back to 4 and stay there until I back off the gas, I just 
changed my oil to a straight 30 ND. Owned the car 32 years never a problem, 
what's the matter with these cars can't they make them to last? Seriously,
does  this sound like a pressure prob or just solenoid arm  alignment.    Beau
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG -
www.avg.com Versie: 9.0.829 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2937 - datum van
uitgifte: 06/14/10 08:35:00
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Jun 15 07:10:20 2010
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 07:10:20 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] trans issues
In-Reply-To: <236367.11063.qm@web32901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com> <4C1750B9.5060400@chello.nl>
	<236367.11063.qm@web32901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C47246C83D4245DB85A80098D706A43B@oscar>

Correct. 
Thanks Ron.

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 6:10 AM
To: Oudesluys; BEAU2EVE at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans issues

That's the way it works in Modern day cars.  Not the way a properly adjusted
Overdrive in a Big Healey is designed to work.  It should only come out of
Overdrive when the switch is turned off and you depress the accelerator
pedal.
Enjoy the day
Ron




________________________________
From: Oudesluys
<coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: BEAU2EVE at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent:
Tue, June 15, 2010 6:06:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans issues

Sounds like
it operates the way it should. On many OD systems a kick down switch is
integrated. When you press the loud pedal in 3rd OD or 4th OD  the OD will
switch off going back to 3rd or 4th. When backing off the OD comes in again
going to 3rd OD or 4th OD.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

BEAU2EVE at aol.com wrote:
> Hi
guys, another issue has popped up this time a trans problem. When I  put the
switch down to go to overdrive it goes right in smoothly an will stay in  as
long as I don't give it a lot of gas,the harder I press the pedal it will 
jump out, going back to 4 and stay there until I back off the gas, I just 
changed my oil to a straight 30 ND. Owned the car 32 years never a problem, 
what's the matter with these cars can't they make them to last? Seriously,
does  this sound like a pressure prob or just solenoid arm  alignment.
Beau
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG -
www.avg.com Versie: 9.0.829 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2937 - datum van
uitgifte: 06/14/10 08:35:00
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Jun 15 08:07:21 2010
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 07:07:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BSF Bolts
In-Reply-To: <4C16F460.5090409@comcast.net>
References: <4C16F460.5090409@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342090F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Clarke Spares in Pennsylvania. They have a convoluted catalog so best to
talk to them if you want something quickly.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 8:33 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] BSF Bolts

Anybody got a source?  British Fasteners is out of stock of the ones I
need.

TIA,
Bob

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 15 09:09:30 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 08:09:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
In-Reply-To: <003101cb0c22$3ffb0d30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <AANLkTikk00TKiCCqDAWZbYH_EygNLmy_H-OOkC1OnCFb@mail.gmail.com>
	<CC62C2CB-3D72-4519-8BAB-B7E51DDC5053@sbcglobal.net>
	<003101cb0c22$3ffb0d30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <7C70AAFE-7944-4E97-9746-1A496C873CDE@sbcglobal.net>

We had a car here in the shop that had a problem after a brake  
rebuild. The pedal was always soft and no matter what we could not  
get a hard pedal. The owner was crippled in one leg and was very  
weak. What we found was the flex hoses were swelling when you pressed  
on the pedal. The cause of the swelling was that the attachment point  
of the master cylinder push rod had been re drilled about 1/2 higher.

Now the original pedal has a ratio of 4.89:1. So assuming 50lbs of  
pedal pressure at this ratio your actually on the master cylinder  
push rod is 245 lbs.  So if you move the attachment point up by 1/2  
inch the ratio is now 6.3:1. Now with 50 lbs of pedal pressure the  
applied pressure at the cylinder is 315 lbs.

So to get the same amount of applied pressure at the master cylinder  
with a ratio of 6.3:1 you will only need to apply 38 lbs at the pedal.

Now to move the attachment point you would need to remove the pedal  
and re drill a hole for the clevis attachment.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 14, 2010, at 5:32 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

> David,  this is a new concept for me.  First time I have heard this  
> idea. What do you mean by "moving
> the  rod up"?     Up where?       A lighter clutch pedal would make  
> a huge difference for me.
>
> While I have your ear,  are the brake and clutch master cylinders  
> suppose to be identical on a 60 BT7?
>
> Thanks,   Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock"  
> <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 5:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts
>
>
>> The clutch pedal ratio is 4.89:1. By moving the attachment point up
>> 1/4" now the ration is 5.5:1 and 1/2" the ratio jumps to 6.3:1
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
> : http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> lapierrem at sbcglobal.net

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 15 09:42:57 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 11:42:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trans issues
References: <58005.1838f58c.39481f55@aol.com> <4C1750B9.5060400@chello.nl>
	<236367.11063.qm@web32901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001201cb0ca1$6ddf4d90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Press the accelerator,  not depress.   You want the rpms to be raising when 
the OD kicks down.  Sounds
a bit back ass words but true.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Mitchell" <healeyron at yahoo.com>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>; <BEAU2EVE at aol.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans issues


> That's the way it works in Modern day cars.  Not the way a properly 
> adjusted
> Overdrive in a Big Healey is designed to work.  It should only come out of
> Overdrive when the switch is turned off and you depress the accelerator 
> pedal.
> Enjoy the day
> Ron
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Oudesluys
> <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: BEAU2EVE at aol.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent:
> Tue, June 15, 2010 6:06:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] trans issues
>
> Sounds like
> it operates the way it should. On many OD systems a kick down switch is
> integrated. When you press the loud pedal in 3rd OD or 4th OD  the OD will
> switch off going back to 3rd or 4th. When backing off the OD comes in 
> again
> going to 3rd OD or 4th OD.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> BEAU2EVE at aol.com wrote:
>> Hi
> guys, another issue has popped up this time a trans problem. When I  put 
> the
> switch down to go to overdrive it goes right in smoothly an will stay in 
> as
> long as I don't give it a lot of gas,the harder I press the pedal it will
> jump out, going back to 4 and stay there until I back off the gas, I just
> changed my oil to a straight 30 ND. Owned the car 32 years never a 
> problem,
> what's the matter with these cars can't they make them to last? Seriously,
> does  this sound like a pressure prob or just solenoid arm  alignment. 
> Beau
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG -
> www.avg.com Versie: 9.0.829 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2937 - datum van
> uitgifte: 06/14/10 08:35:00
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested
> annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 15 09:44:39 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 11:44:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BSF Bolts
References: <4C16F460.5090409@comcast.net>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342090F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <001701cb0ca1$aa614340$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Convoluted?  That should be perfect for us Healey folk.  )

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Freese, Ken" <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>; "healeylist" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Bolts


> Clarke Spares in Pennsylvania. They have a convoluted catalog so best to
> talk to them if you want something quickly.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 8:33 PM
> To: healeylist
> Subject: [Healeys] BSF Bolts
>
> Anybody got a source?  British Fasteners is out of stock of the ones I
> need.
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 15 11:04:34 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 10:04:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
Message-ID: <4CC63955-98A3-40A8-A470-63904F595E98@sbcglobal.net>

We had a car here in the shop that had a problem after a brake
rebuild. The pedal was always soft and no matter what we could not
get a hard pedal. The owner was crippled in one leg and was very
weak. What we found was the flex hoses were swelling when you pressed
on the pedal. The cause of the swelling was that the attachment point
of the master cylinder push rod had been re drilled about 1/2 higher.

Now the original pedal has a ratio of 4.89:1. So assuming 50lbs of
pedal pressure at this ratio your actually on the master cylinder
push rod is 245 lbs.  So if you move the attachment point up by 1/2
inch the ratio is now 6.3:1. Now with 50 lbs of pedal pressure the
applied pressure at the cylinder is 315 lbs.

So to get the same amount of applied pressure at the master cylinder
with a ratio of 6.3:1 you will only need to apply 38 lbs at the pedal.

Now to move the attachment point you would need to remove the pedal
and re drill a hole for the clevis attachment.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Tue Jun 15 14:17:33 2010
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 22:17:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19.1276624802.10594.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6B20E3FA306D4998B1479705E64A06B8@tm>

Hello,

Did anyone hear about small servos for hydraulic clutch?

Tadek

From raymead at comcast.net  Tue Jun 15 14:41:42 2010
From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 20:41:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] underhood temperatures VS clear enamel........???????????
Message-ID: <1101086040.6340711276634502833.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

hello all,



IB was watching a car show a couple weeks ago (Motorweek) and Pat Goss, who is
currently restoring some big old hunk of a Cadillac, was talking about
cleaning and dressing up the underhood area.



He made the following statement (which also appears on their website):



"And here's a tip for dull plastic and metal parts, especially on the
firewall; a coat of satin clear enamel is a quick way to bring new life and
shine to those old parts without a lot of tedious masking and painting".





Upon hearing what Pat said, I went out and bought a spray can of "Crystal
Clear Enamel" B made by Rust-oleum.



There is a warning on the can which reads "Do not apply on surfaces that, when
heated, exceed 200 degrees F., or galvanized metal".



So,,,,,,,,, my question is:



1.B  did I buy the wrong enamel?



B B B B B B B B  OR



2.B  is this productB consistent B (thus meaning the 200 degree warning) with
what Pat said on the air and on the website??



Or, put another way, what kind of temperatures can one expect, underhood,
while understanding that you don't spray this stuff on your engine block, your
headers, etc!!!!B  My though was to spray it on wires, plastic parts on the
firewall, etc., etc............



Comments?????????B B B B B B B B B  Alternatives?????????B B B B B B B B B B 
Suggestions?????????



tks, ray

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jun 15 15:01:11 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 23:01:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <6B20E3FA306D4998B1479705E64A06B8@tm>
References: <6B20E3FA306D4998B1479705E64A06B8@tm>
Message-ID: <4C17EA17.4030403@chello.nl>

You can use a remote Girling or Lockheed (type) brake servo. You have a 
choice of several ratio's from 1,9 to 3 or even more.
I did it on a Landrover Series III. Worked great.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Did anyone hear about small servos for hydraulic clutch?
>
> Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.829 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2939 - datum van uitgifte: 06/15/10 08:35:00

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Jun 15 15:55:03 2010
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 17:55:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] underhood temperatures VS clear
 enamel........???????????
References: <1101086040.6340711276634502833.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0B063A71274146F2B1301D9ABAA55831@your4dacd0ea75>

Simple answer is -  B B B B B B B B  ;^)

Dallas




----- Original Message ----- 
From: <raymead at comcast.net>
To: "AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 4:41 PM
Subject: [Healeys] underhood temperatures VS clear enamel........???????????


> hello all,
>
>
>
> IB was watching a car show a couple weeks ago (Motorweek) and Pat Goss, 
> who is
> currently restoring some big old hunk of a Cadillac, was talking about
> cleaning and dressing up the underhood area.
>
>
>
> He made the following statement (which also appears on their website):
>
>
>
> "And here's a tip for dull plastic and metal parts, especially on the
> firewall; a coat of satin clear enamel is a quick way to bring new life 
> and
> shine to those old parts without a lot of tedious masking and painting".
>
>
>
>
>
> Upon hearing what Pat said, I went out and bought a spray can of "Crystal
> Clear Enamel" B made by Rust-oleum.
>
>
>
> There is a warning on the can which reads "Do not apply on surfaces that, 
> when
> heated, exceed 200 degrees F., or galvanized metal".
>
>
>
> So,,,,,,,,, my question is:
>
>
>
> 1.B  did I buy the wrong enamel?
>
>
>
> B B B B B B B B  OR
>
>
>
> 2.B  is this productB consistent B (thus meaning the 200 degree warning) 
> with
> what Pat said on the air and on the website??
>
>
>
> Or, put another way, what kind of temperatures can one expect, underhood,
> while understanding that you don't spray this stuff on your engine block, 
> your
> headers, etc!!!!B  My though was to spray it on wires, plastic parts on 
> the
> firewall, etc., etc............
>
>
>
> Comments?????????B B B B B B B B B  Alternatives?????????B B B B B B B B B 
> B
> Suggestions?????????
>
>
>
> tks, ray
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dcongleton at embarqmail.com 

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 15 15:52:04 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 14:52:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <6B20E3FA306D4998B1479705E64A06B8@tm>
References: <mailman.19.1276624802.10594.healeys@autox.team.net> 
	<6B20E3FA306D4998B1479705E64A06B8@tm>
Message-ID: <AANLkTintsQh_bn_D3s7h8zDSCTNNR06hp4Z3RXZ6t980@mail.gmail.com>

I am working on adapting a remote vacuum assist on my car. Its
a Lockheed unit. Found it on ebay. Located it on the right side fender well.
have not plumbed it in yet as I am also going to update my clutch from a HD
BT7 to a BJ8 unit. Will let you know how how it works out.

On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 1:17 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <
tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Did anyone hear about small servos for hydraulic clutch?
>
> Tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Jun 15 16:35:10 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 17:35:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] underhood temperatures VS clear
 enamel........???????????
In-Reply-To: <1101086040.6340711276634502833.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1101086040.6340711276634502833.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C18001E.4080102@justbrits.com>

<< 

"And here's a tip for dull plastic and metal parts, especially on the
firewall; a coat of satin clear enamel is a quick way to bring new life and
shine to those old parts without a lot of tedious masking and painting".

 >>

Ray, all I can tell you, etal is that a number of years ago I
was one [1] of the Concours Judges in NC and we had a
beautiful Golden Beige Metallic BJ-8 that the Owner had
spent MANY hours on a LOT of which involved exactly
what you are 'saying'/proposing.  Unfortunately [for me -
the Owner 'found out' it was me that "Outed" him <VBG> !!! ]
and I became Person Non-Grata for the rest of Conclave.

What I found was that about 80% of the Brake Pipes
traversing the firewall [THERE is the prob<G>] WHERE
painted VERY deftly with a brush [only about 1% 'showed'
the brushing] in a similar coloured paint.

I found the 20% of NON-'showing' original [coloured] pipe
and what I found was enough to knock him down a 'step'.

Mind you, the job was VERY well done and in any Popular
Judged Class the pipes woulda "passed muster" <G> !!!

FYI, YMMV, FWIW, NFI, etc., etc., etc. !!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From mrfinespanner at earthlink.net  Tue Jun 15 20:41:34 2010
From: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net (Mr. Finespanner)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 19:41:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?
Message-ID: <426B911876A543A0B2D12B325EF8AF0D@ElComputero>

Tom,
There is a thin rubbery washer underneath the clutch reservoir cylinder, and
as you can see it does deteriorate.  I always replace it with a copper 
washer,
which holds up much better.  The concours judges will never see it.
regards,
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks


>Message: 5
>Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:55:54 -0400
>From: Thomas Morrione <tjmorrio at colby.edu>
>Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?
>To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Message-ID: <C83C55EA.586C%tjmorrio at colby.edu>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>Folks,
>
>I9m rebuilding my BJ8 clutch/brake reservoir and see there9s an aluminum
>washer on the outside of the can for the clutch and brake line nipples. But
>on disassembly I found a black substance inside the can between the clutch
>(small) cylinder reservoir bottom and the can inside bottom. It looks like 
>a
>very thin washer of some sort perhaps butyl or neoprene.  I9ve looked in
>the archives and see no mention of it and Moss doesn9t list the part.
>Helpful listers I9ve asked have suggested making one which I can do but
>my question is - is it supposed to be there or is this likely just residue
>from some sealant? (if it is what9s best to use?) There9s no washer inside
>the can for the brake line.
>
>TIA,
>Tom
>BJ8 65 in process 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 15 18:18:00 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 20:18:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question
Message-ID: <001001cb0ce9$61708b30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Could some of you computer types get back with me with your opinions on which
way I should go and other misc. questions for a new lap top.

PLEASE SEND ANSWERS OFF THE LIST SO AS NOT TO DISRUPT THE LISTS
REAL PURPOSE.    Thanks

If anyone would like to know the answers I will gladly send them to you.

-  Does setting up a new lap top really take 4 to 5 hours?   Says the salesman
(kid)

-  Is the setup out of the reach of a normal/ casual operator?

-  Should I have paid  the $80.  to let the Geek Squad do the set up for me?

-   My lap top has Windows 7 included but I may have to down load that? I
haven't turned it
    on yet.  Could that be a large part of the 4 to 5 hrs?

-    I have the option between 3 different Anti Viruses of which I haven't
heard of either one.
      Webroot,  Kaspersky,   and Trend Micro. (where have I been?)

       Which is the  AV of choice?

-     Do I need to install the Anti Virus immediately upon "turn on" in order
to totally protect my
      systems?    And then load the Windows  system?

-      I have MacAfee included in my At&t internet, can I use both AV or will
they conflict with
       each other?

-      Anything I forgot please don't hesitate to suggest.


        Just trying to make my new investment a safe/ smooth one.


        Thanks ,  Mark

From britcrs at gmail.com  Tue Jun 15 18:30:59 2010
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 17:30:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] underhood temperatures VS clear
 enamel........???????????
In-Reply-To: <1101086040.6340711276634502833.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1101086040.6340711276634502833.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinfsv5_bzntA-AhJx7uRDXj6zAzrI0ILgcQSoo0@mail.gmail.com>

This is a common "used car lot" detailing method. It make everything look
unnaturally shiney. Also stinks when the paint that got on hot surfaces
burns off. I wouldn't do it.

Marv J



On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 1:41 PM, <raymead at comcast.net> wrote:

> hello all,
>
>
>
> IB was watching a car show a couple weeks ago (Motorweek) and Pat Goss, who
> is
> currently restoring some big old hunk of a Cadillac, was talking about
> cleaning and dressing up the underhood area.
>
>
>
> He made the following statement (which also appears on their website):
>
>
>
> "And here's a tip for dull plastic and metal parts, especially on the
> firewall; a coat of satin clear enamel is a quick way to bring new life and
> shine to those old parts without a lot of tedious masking and painting".
>
>
>
>
>
> Upon hearing what Pat said, I went out and bought a spray can of "Crystal
> Clear Enamel" B made by Rust-oleum.
>
>
>
> There is a warning on the can which reads "Do not apply on surfaces that,
> when
> heated, exceed 200 degrees F., or galvanized metal".
>
>
>
> So,,,,,,,,, my question is:
>
>
>
> 1.B  did I buy the wrong enamel?
>
>
>
> B B B B B B B B  OR
>
>
>
> 2.B  is this productB consistent B (thus meaning the 200 degree warning)
> with
> what Pat said on the air and on the website??
>
>
>
> Or, put another way, what kind of temperatures can one expect, underhood,
> while understanding that you don't spray this stuff on your engine block,
> your
> headers, etc!!!!B  My though was to spray it on wires, plastic parts on the
> firewall, etc., etc............
>
>
>
> Comments?????????B B B B B B B B B  Alternatives?????????B B B B B B B B B
> B
> Suggestions?????????
>
>
>
> tks, ray
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 15 19:45:50 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 18:45:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question
In-Reply-To: <001001cb0ce9$61708b30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <001001cb0ce9$61708b30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4C182CCE.8000704@comcast.net>

Mark,

Mark,

I bought a Toshiba laptop from BB for my son a while back.   It's very 
annoying because the manufacturers load the box up with a lot of crap 
software, then you have to remove it.  Even though I'm a computer 
professional I paid BB to do it because they convinced me their 
utilities would do a better job, but you can probably do it by going 
into the Control Panel and just removing the apps.  

I would think Win7 would be installed on any new computer.  I would use 
McAfee from AT&T because it's free and comparable to the others.  Trend 
Micro is good, I'm not too familiar with Kaspersky but had heard some 
good things about it, but with McAfee you'll get regular updates.  It 
runs a full scan once a week that really bogs the box down but aside 
from that I used it successfully for years.

Cheers,
Bob



Mark LaPierre wrote:
> Could some of you computer types get back with me with your opinions on which
> way I should go and other misc. questions for a new lap top.
>
> PLEASE SEND ANSWERS OFF THE LIST SO AS NOT TO DISRUPT THE LISTS
> REAL PURPOSE.    Thanks
>
> If anyone would like to know the answers I will gladly send them to you.
>
> -  Does setting up a new lap top really take 4 to 5 hours?   Says the salesman
> (kid)
>
> -  Is the setup out of the reach of a normal/ casual operator?
>
> -  Should I have paid  the $80.  to let the Geek Squad do the set up for me?
>
> -   My lap top has Windows 7 included but I may have to down load that? I
> haven't turned it
>     on yet.  Could that be a large part of the 4 to 5 hrs?
>
> -    I have the option between 3 different Anti Viruses of which I haven't
> heard of either one.
>       Webroot,  Kaspersky,   and Trend Micro. (where have I been?)
>
>        Which is the  AV of choice?
>
> -     Do I need to install the Anti Virus immediately upon "turn on" in order
> to totally protect my
>       systems?    And then load the Windows  system?
>
> -      I have MacAfee included in my At&t internet, can I use both AV or will
> they conflict with
>        each other?
>
> -      Anything I forgot please don't hesitate to suggest.
>
>
>         Just trying to make my new investment a safe/ smooth one.
>
>
>         Thanks ,  Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Jun 15 23:18:50 2010
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 00:18:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Generic Restoration Question Manifold Gasket
Message-ID: <A8E12F92132646EE93CF11972C7ED6B6@GregPC>

I am asking this list because it is just the fastest place to get good answers
to tech questions.  I posted to the Triumph forum and have gotten nothing.  I
have a Payen manifold gasket for my TR250 absolutley no markings on the gasket
on side a softer material, the other side definitely metal--metal side goes to
block or intake/exhaust manifold side?  Off list responses are fine.

Thanks, Greg Lemon

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 05:46:41 2010
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 07:46:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tire pressures
Message-ID: <4c18b9a4.0b04dc0a.3ebf.76cd@mx.google.com>

What tire pressures are people using for the Kumho 165-80/15 tires?  The
manual for my car recommends 20 front/25 rear or 25 front/30 rear for high
speeds.  For old tires, Dunlop SP20's, I had been running 25/30 but the
Kumhos feel like they are over inflated at that pressure.  Should I drop
down to 20/25?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

From quenty at ntelos.net  Wed Jun 16 09:04:00 2010
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Quentin Schweninger)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:04:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature
In-Reply-To: <OHWEBSERVER4yD7TfSr00003c24@OHWEBSERVER4.openhosts.com>
References: <OHWEBSERVER4yD7TfSr00003c24@OHWEBSERVER4.openhosts.com>
Message-ID: <167D534D-3DA5-4552-8C9F-E2DB6170BFF3@ntelos.net>

You have refused to reply to my three Emails regarding a non working  
solid state pump Kit .
Now You want me to buy carb kits from you. Not a chance!
You are still Burlen.
Not a place to buy anything.




On Jun 16, 2010, at 12:18 AM, info at sucarb.co.uk wrote:

Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature
SU Service and Rebuild Kits



Product Search

We have updated our homepage to make it even easier to find SU carbs,  
pumps and spares for your vehicle. Click here to visit our website and  
search now!


For more genuine SU carburetters, Fuel pumps and spares visit our  
website at www.sucarb.co.uk





We will be continually adding new features and products to the website  
over the next few months, so don't forget to check back regularly.

Kind Regards,

The SU Carburetter Company




Spitfire House, Castle Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP1 3SB, England
Registered in England & Wales: Reg No. 2005550
Tel: 00 44 (0)1722 412500
Fax: 00 44 (0)1722 334221
Email: info at sucarb.co.uk
Website: www.sucarb.co.uk



The SU Carburetter Company is a division of Burlen Fuel Systems Limited.

The information contained in this email is intended for the named  
recipient(s) only and must not be copied, distributed or published in  
any way without prior agreement. Burlen Fuel Systems Limited accepts  
no responsibility for this message.

You are receiving this email because you have requested to. - If you  
no longer wish to receive these emails please visit http://www.sucarb.co.uk/myProfile.aspx 
  and opt out of emails.

From grday at btinternet.com  Wed Jun 16 10:33:16 2010
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 17:33:16 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature
References: <OHWEBSERVER4yD7TfSr00003c24@OHWEBSERVER4.openhosts.com>
	<167D534D-3DA5-4552-8C9F-E2DB6170BFF3@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <C04C35038D674FC4BB4C28855EE45C58@user8634b3d69b>

I had to email su.carb.co about the identity of a pair of SU carbs around 10 
days ago.  They replied within 4 days with the correct info I could print 
out and pass on to the customer.  Are you sure you are asking the right 
people the right question?

Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Quentin Schweninger" <quenty at ntelos.net>
To: <info at sucarb.co.uk>; "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature


> You have refused to reply to my three Emails regarding a non working
> solid state pump Kit .
> Now You want me to buy carb kits from you. Not a chance!
> You are still Burlen.
> Not a place to buy anything.
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 16, 2010, at 12:18 AM, info at sucarb.co.uk wrote:
>
> Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature
> SU Service and Rebuild Kits
>
>
>
> Product Search
>
> We have updated our homepage to make it even easier to find SU carbs,
> pumps and spares for your vehicle. Click here to visit our website and
> search now!
>
>
> For more genuine SU carburetters, Fuel pumps and spares visit our
> website at www.sucarb.co.uk
>
>
>
>
>
> We will be continually adding new features and products to the website
> over the next few months, so don't forget to check back regularly.
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> The SU Carburetter Company
>
>
>
>
> Spitfire House, Castle Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP1 3SB, England
> Registered in England & Wales: Reg No. 2005550
> Tel: 00 44 (0)1722 412500
> Fax: 00 44 (0)1722 334221
> Email: info at sucarb.co.uk
> Website: www.sucarb.co.uk
>
>
>
> The SU Carburetter Company is a division of Burlen Fuel Systems Limited.
>
> The information contained in this email is intended for the named
> recipient(s) only and must not be copied, distributed or published in
> any way without prior agreement. Burlen Fuel Systems Limited accepts
> no responsibility for this message.
>
> You are receiving this email because you have requested to. - If you
> no longer wish to receive these emails please visit 
> http://www.sucarb.co.uk/myProfile.aspx
>  and opt out of emails.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Wed Jun 16 12:32:44 2010
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 20:32:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTintsQh_bn_D3s7h8zDSCTNNR06hp4Z3RXZ6t980@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D644254C9B9D45BC9A5197D0CEE17169@tm>

Many thanks!

It's for my friend's e-type, not a Healey. I will look for something smaller
and will let you know if I find anything.

Tadek

________________________________________
From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 11:52 PM
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch

I am working on adapting a remote vacuum assist on my car. Its
a Lockheed unit. Found it on ebay. Located it on the right side fender well.
have not plumbed it in yet as I am also going to update my clutch from a HD
BT7 to a BJ8 unit. Will let you know how how it works out.

From pieters at pt.lu  Wed Jun 16 12:41:40 2010
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 20:41:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
Message-ID: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>

Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a  
cheap project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...

Ebay Item number:290444031494

Cheers
Pieter

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Wed Jun 16 13:46:23 2010
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:46:23 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
Message-ID: <19571340.3470351276717583688.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>

Pieter,
Seen this one too, but do you realize the amount of work (ie time and money)
it needs?
B


Pieter and Linda a C)crit :
>
> Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...
>
> Ebay Item number:290444031494
>
> Cheers
> Pieter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jun 16 13:50:57 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 15:50:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <20100616155057.OCRHO.90311.root@pamxwww04-z01>

Yes, but the reserve hasn't been met---who knows what that is?


---- Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote: 

=============
Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a  
cheap project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...

Ebay Item number:290444031494

Cheers
Pieter
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net

From britcrs at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 14:01:59 2010
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 13:01:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
References: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilIcDOpoI8qODYaaXndxEbQIvyJkggIM64_XzQN@mail.gmail.com>

First, you don't know what the reserve is so it may not be cheap. It looks
like serious rust in the frame. I would budget for a new Jule or Kilmartin
frame. Also, lots of parts missing. Not a cheap project at any price.

Marv J

On Wed, Jun 16, 2010 at 11:41 AM, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:

> Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
> project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...
>
> Ebay Item number:290444031494
>
> Cheers
> Pieter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 14:39:54 2010
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 16:39:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
References: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilDBlgP_F7FtEu0B-iNyx4NeTh7FZkPIjKge5wk@mail.gmail.com>

It's not cheap yet... 29 hours to go. A lot can happen

Bob Johnson
BJ8

On Wed, Jun 16, 2010 at 2:41 PM, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:
> Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
> project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...
>
> Ebay Item number:290444031494

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 14:49:03 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 13:49:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
References: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin8X16Cb0yvH3IQFKd-4S7bXNri4sGkHLAZ7W9V@mail.gmail.com>

looks like a rare lightweight car.

On Wed, Jun 16, 2010 at 11:41 AM, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:

> Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
> project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...
>
> Ebay Item number:290444031494
>
> Cheers
> Pieter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 15:02:20 2010
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 17:02:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] LED Third Brake Light
Message-ID: <AANLkTim96NUOMRcYme2cUxUHhWtKG3dLLtJIMZ3PghYn@mail.gmail.com>

Went to my local Auto Zone store yesterday. The had flexible red led
strips, 2 12" strips in a package, each with 18 lights. Adhesive
backing for mounting. Brand was Alpena Flex LED. $20. Might be a good
easy way for anyone looking for this arrangement. They seem to be
really bright. NFI, etc. I bought in anticipation of my conversion to
neg ground. BTW, looked on the web site and did not see them.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 15:08:35 2010
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 17:08:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Redux already: led third brake light
Message-ID: <AANLkTilx5sR9FcJDee_xX1j01ZkY5qg01UZF6Ts6wpW6@mail.gmail.com>

Just found a pic:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2853656960038931575dXIzFW

or http://tinyurl.com/264kc53

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 16 15:21:42 2010
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:21:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <19571340.3470351276717583688.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>
References: <19571340.3470351276717583688.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1119>
Message-ID: <875192.97034.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Pieter,

It can't be considered cheap until you see what the reserve is.  It
hasn't reached the reserve yet so it may not be as cheap as you think. 
Anything over the $3,000 it's at right now would make it expensive.  

As
Bernard said there's a lot work left to do before it hits the road.

Just my 2
pennies
Ron




________________________________
From: Bernard
<bcrist at club-internet.fr>
To: Healeylist <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed,
June 16, 2010 3:46:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7

Pieter,
Seen this
one too, but do you realize the amount of work (ie time and money)
it needs?
B
Pieter and Linda a C)crit :
>
> Anybody know anything about this car or the
seller. It looks like a cheap
project car but if to looks to cheap to be
true...
>
> Ebay Item number:290444031494
>
> Cheers
> Pieter
>
_______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun 16 15:51:02 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 16:51:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
References: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <4C194746.2010806@justbrits.com>

<<Anybody know anything about this car >>

Enough to KNOW beyond a shadow that it's NOT a BJ-7 but
IS a BJ-8, Pieter & Etal !!!  HBJ8L27187 kinda gives it away<G>!!

<VBG>

Ed
'63 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates  AH BJ 7 ]
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From jpayne at ThorCon.net  Wed Jun 16 15:52:57 2010
From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:52:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin8X16Cb0yvH3IQFKd-4S7bXNri4sGkHLAZ7W9V@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
	<AANLkTin8X16Cb0yvH3IQFKd-4S7bXNri4sGkHLAZ7W9V@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65446B4738104@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>

Ah yes,

One of the factory's low production "aero" models made of the rare alloy
"rustawaydium".

Not just light weight but much improved airflow through the cockpit and engine
compartment.

Improved braking and acceleration through the fundamentals of Flintstonian
physics.

Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084



"This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the
use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.  If you have
received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
and delete all copies from your system.  It is not the intent of the sender to
solicit any person or business.  Please note that any opinions in this email
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor
Construction, Incorporated.  Finally, the recipient should check this email
and any attachments for the presence of viruses.  The company accepts no
liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this
email."

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 17:02:44 2010
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 19:02:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <875192.97034.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4c195815.677ddc0a.3957.ffff9293@mx.google.com>

Just for the record it is actually a BJ8 as per the vin# tag.  Also it has a
non-overdrive gearbox in case that matters.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell
> Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 5:22 PM
> To: bcrist at club-internet.fr; Healeylist
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
> 
> Pieter,
> 
> It can't be considered cheap until you see what the reserve is.  It
> hasn't reached the reserve yet so it may not be as cheap as you think.
> Anything over the $3,000 it's at right now would make it expensive.
> 
> As
> Bernard said there's a lot work left to do before it hits the road.
> 
> Just my 2
> pennies
> Ron

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 16 17:14:55 2010
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 23:14:55 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <4C194746.2010806@justbrits.com>
References: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>,
	<4C194746.2010806@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W45B91FFC96E70706697AF5B5DE0@phx.gbl>

I didn't see the number but I did detect a kink in the rear of the frame.
Rick '59 BN4



> Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 16:51:02 -0500
> From: shop at justbrits.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
>
> <<Anybody know anything about this car >>
>
> Enough to KNOW beyond a shadow that it's NOT a BJ-7 but
> IS a BJ-8, Pieter & Etal !!!  HBJ8L27187 kinda gives it away<G>!!
>
> <VBG>
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates  AH BJ 7 ]
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
> For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
> [and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjswain at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Learn more ways to connect with your buddies now
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734388

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 16 18:16:23 2010
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 17:16:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <446721.84073.qm@web53002.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

This is a 1965 BJ8 phase II. The car has radius arms and the drop in the rear
frame where the axle goes for the increased rear  ride height. This began in
the 1965 model year. The non-overdrive cars generally had a 354 gear ratio
axle in it.
I would not be surprised if the car brought 10,000.00 to 15,000.00 on ebay
anything less than 10,000.00 would be a bargain. I have had in my shop similar
cars with the rusted floor pans in place requiring the same amount of work as
this one .The last 2 were purchased over 20,000.00.
Yes it can be fixed.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Wed, 6/16/10, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:

From: Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu>
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
To: "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Wednesday, June 16, 2010, 2:41 PM

Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...

Ebay Item number:290444031494

Cheers
Pieter
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From insptwo at msn.com  Wed Jun 16 18:26:05 2010
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 20:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] e bay BJ8
Message-ID: <COL109-W308D2FFC112187CCAA5DDADDF0@phx.gbl>

I also did not see any sign of a motor!

Bill

BJ7

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 18:25:39 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 17:25:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65446B4738104@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
References: <A344716E-3662-4AED-BC39-DE021EB52A9B@pt.lu>
	<AANLkTin8X16Cb0yvH3IQFKd-4S7bXNri4sGkHLAZ7W9V@mail.gmail.com> 
	<AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65446B4738104@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikLQtChYfEZs_iqmgpdyuic3LvqnYHdltwBbBpp@mail.gmail.com>

lol

On Wed, Jun 16, 2010 at 2:52 PM, Jonas Payne <jpayne at thorcon.net> wrote:

> Ah yes,
>
> One of the factory's low production "aero" models made of the rare alloy
> "rustawaydium".
>
> Not just light weight but much improved airflow through the cockpit and
> engine compartment.
>
> Improved braking and acceleration through the fundamentals of Flintstonian
> physics.
>
> Jonas Payne
> Director of Preconstruction
> Thor Construction
> PH:    (702) 269-2007
> Fax:   (702) 269-7095
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
>
>
> "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for
> the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.  If you have
> received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
> and delete all copies from your system.  It is not the intent of the sender
> to solicit any person or business.  Please note that any opinions in this
> email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those
> of Thor Construction, Incorporated.  Finally, the recipient should check
> this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses.  The company
> accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted
> by this email."
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 19:25:54 2010
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:25:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] e bay BJ8
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W308D2FFC112187CCAA5DDADDF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-W308D2FFC112187CCAA5DDADDF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48584553-6F14-4451-AD73-6F760310E7D8@gmail.com>

Is the transmission right? It looks narrow.

Randy


On Jun 16, 2010, at 8:26 PM, <insptwo at msn.com> wrote:

> I also did not see any sign of a motor!
>
> Bill
>
> BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jun 16 19:28:14 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:28:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <446721.84073.qm@web53002.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100616212814.KA7S0.95713.root@pamxwww04-z01>

If it was a phase 2 wouldn't it have the two lights on the front?  If I recall correctly it didn't have but the one set of lights---parking/signal.


---- Martin Jansen <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
This is a 1965 BJ8 phase II. The car has radius arms and the drop in the rear
frame where the axle goes for the increased rear  ride height. This began in
the 1965 model year. The non-overdrive cars generally had a 354 gear ratio
axle in it.
I would not be surprised if the car brought 10,000.00 to 15,000.00 on ebay
anything less than 10,000.00 would be a bargain. I have had in my shop similar
cars with the rusted floor pans in place requiring the same amount of work as
this one .The last 2 were purchased over 20,000.00.
Yes it can be fixed.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Wed, 6/16/10, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:

From: Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu>
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
To: "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Wednesday, June 16, 2010, 2:41 PM

Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...

Ebay Item number:290444031494

Cheers
Pieter
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From bighealey at astound.net  Wed Jun 16 20:32:36 2010
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 19:32:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <4c18b9a4.0b04dc0a.3ebf.76cd@mx.google.com>
References: <4c18b9a4.0b04dc0a.3ebf.76cd@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <B16C70AAFC144660839032D161067363@JohnSoderling>

Peter,

I'm using 30 psi (cool temp pressure) in my Kumho 165-80/15 tires.  They 
ride and handle great at this pressure.  I've got 15,000 miles on them now 
and still have 60 % wear left.  I'll replace them when they are 10 years old 
which will be before the tread wear will dictate replacement.

Vrooom vroom,
John

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 4:46 AM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tire pressures

> What tire pressures are people using for the Kumho 165-80/15 tires?  The
> manual for my car recommends 20 front/25 rear or 25 front/30 rear for high
> speeds.  For old tires, Dunlop SP20's, I had been running 25/30 but the
> Kumhos feel like they are over inflated at that pressure.  Should I drop
> down to 20/25?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at astound.net

From rpschauss at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 20:45:20 2010
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:45:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] e bay BJ8
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W308D2FFC112187CCAA5DDADDF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4c198c41.04f7960a.0564.0ffb@mx.google.com>

One of the pictures did show a motor.  The tank on the radiator had been
painted blue.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of insptwo at msn.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 8:26 PM
> To: healey help
> Subject: [Healeys] e bay BJ8
> 
> I also did not see any sign of a motor!
> 
> Bill
> 
> BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 16 20:58:49 2010
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 19:58:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <20100616212814.KA7S0.95713.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Message-ID: <632062.73293.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

there are 3 phases to the BJ8- Phase I 1964- single signal lamps front and
rear, front brake calipers are the same as BT7 BJ7.
Phase II -1965- chassis modification -drop frame rails at rear axle, radius
arm on rear axle were introduced, larger front brake calipers, still single
signal lamps.
Phase III -later 1966 and on - dual marker and driver lights, reflectors on
corner of rear bumper and different license plate bracket on rear bumper.
I am sure there are other differences but these are the most obvious.
The car on Ebay has the upper rad hose is on the left not on the right. This
is odd. 

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Wed, 6/16/10, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
To: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>, "Martin Jansen"
<jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com>, "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Wednesday, June 16, 2010, 9:28 PM

If it was a phase 2 wouldn't it have the two lights on the front?  If I recall
correctly it didn't have but the one set of lights---parking/signal.


---- Martin Jansen <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com> wrote:

=============
This is a 1965 BJ8 phase II. The car has radius arms and the drop in the rear
frame where the axle goes for the increased rear  ride height. This began in
the 1965 model year. The non-overdrive cars generally had a 354 gear ratio
axle in it.
I would not be surprised if the car brought 10,000.00 to 15,000.00 on ebay
anything less than 10,000.00 would be a bargain. I have had in my shop
similar
cars with the rusted floor pans in place requiring the same amount of work as
this one .The last 2 were purchased over 20,000.00.
Yes it can be fixed.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Wed, 6/16/10, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:

From: Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu>
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
To: "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Wednesday, June 16, 2010, 2:41 PM

Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...

Ebay Item number:290444031494

Cheers
Pieter
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun 16 21:05:43 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:05:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] e bay BJ8
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W308D2FFC112187CCAA5DDADDF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-W308D2FFC112187CCAA5DDADDF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C199107.20307@justbrits.com>

Yer slipping, Bill   [especially BAD for a BJ-7 guy !!] <G> :

Somebody earlier SAID and I
<quote>
Improved braking and acceleration through the fundamentals of 
Flintstonian physics.
</quote>

So there ya go !!!!!  Consider us BJ-7 guys "Advanced" in tech. !!

<VBG> !!!!

ED
BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates  AH BJ 7   ]

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jun 16 21:06:53 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 23:06:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <632062.73293.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100616230653.VB45G.99384.root@pamxwww05-z01>

Are we talking about "phases" or "Marks".  I know there are three Marks, but I
thought there were only 2 "phases.

Mine is a Mk 3, phase 2 car and it is a 65.


---- Martin Jansen <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com> wrote:

=============
there are 3 phases to the BJ8- Phase I 1964- single signal lamps front and
rear, front brake calipers are the same as BT7 BJ7.
Phase II -1965- chassis modification -drop frame rails at rear axle, radius
arm on rear axle were introduced, larger front brake calipers, still single
signal lamps.
Phase III -later 1966 and on - dual marker and driver lights, reflectors on
corner of rear bumper and different license plate bracket on rear bumper.
I am sure there are other differences but these are the most obvious.
The car on Ebay has the upper rad hose is on the left not on the right. This
is odd.B 

Happy Healeying,  B Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Wed, 6/16/10, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
To: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>, "Martin Jansen"
<jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com>, "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Wednesday, June 16, 2010, 9:28 PM

If it was a phase 2 wouldn't it have the two lights on the front?B  If I
recall correctly it didn't have but the one set of lights---parking/signal.


---- Martin Jansen <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com> wrote:

=============
This is a 1965 BJ8 phase II. The car has radius arms and the drop in the rear
frame where the axle goes for the increased rearB  ride height. This began in
the 1965 model year. The non-overdrive cars generally had a 354 gear ratio
axle in it.
I would not be surprised if the car brought 10,000.00 to 15,000.00 on ebay
anything less than 10,000.00 would be a bargain. I have had in my shop
similar
cars with the rusted floor pans in place requiring the same amount of work as
this one .The last 2 were purchased over 20,000.00.
Yes it can be fixed.

Happy Healeying,B B B MartyB  www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Wed, 6/16/10, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:

From: Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu>
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
To: "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Wednesday, June 16, 2010, 2:41 PM

Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...

Ebay Item number:290444031494

Cheers
Pieter
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 16 21:23:29 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 20:23:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rendevous via Redding, CA
Message-ID: <COL121-W522CDBD291F5E414B72245A4DF0@phx.gbl>

Anyone heading to Eugen, OR for the Rendevous via Redding, CA? We  will be
staying at the Fairfield Inn Sunday the 27th. Anything (fun) to see on the way
up from Redding? We are heading up from South Lake Tahoe via Sacramento on
Sunday morning and would be happy to join up with anyone along the way.
Rich Kahn

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Jun 16 21:59:33 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 23:59:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
In-Reply-To: <20100616212814.KA7S0.95713.root@pamxwww04-z01>
References: <20100616212814.KA7S0.95713.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Message-ID: <2AAE95BD394B4D87A53D449311199FA8@LIFEBOOK>

The Phase 2 is designated by the frame dip under the axle and the anti 
torque arms to the rear axle, also the push button exterior door handles. 
The two light thing came almost a year after the Phase 2 went into 
production.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 9:28 PM
To: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>; "Martin Jansen" 
<jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com>; "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7

> If it was a phase 2 wouldn't it have the two lights on the front?  If I 
> recall correctly it didn't have but the one set of 
> lights---parking/signal.
>
>
> ---- Martin Jansen <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> This is a 1965 BJ8 phase II. The car has radius arms and the drop in the 
> rear
> frame where the axle goes for the increased rear  ride height. This began 
> in
> the 1965 model year. The non-overdrive cars generally had a 354 gear ratio
> axle in it.
> I would not be surprised if the car brought 10,000.00 to 15,000.00 on ebay
> anything less than 10,000.00 would be a bargain. I have had in my shop 
> similar
> cars with the rusted floor pans in place requiring the same amount of work 
> as
> this one .The last 2 were purchased over 20,000.00.
> Yes it can be fixed.
>
> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
>
> --- On Wed, 6/16/10, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:
>
> From: Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu>
> Subject: [Healeys] Ebay BJ7
> To: "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Received: Wednesday, June 16, 2010, 2:41 PM
>
> Anybody know anything about this car or the seller. It looks like a cheap
> project car but if to looks to cheap to be true...
>
> Ebay Item number:290444031494
>
> Cheers
> Pieter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 22:12:35 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:12:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] e bay BJ8
In-Reply-To: <4C199107.20307@justbrits.com>
References: <COL109-W308D2FFC112187CCAA5DDADDF0@phx.gbl>
	<4C199107.20307@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinoeiXl8bUpWW2scqftY0R4dWjwPvD9w3saq-lP@mail.gmail.com>

Only if you have those "special" floorboards.
R

On Wed, Jun 16, 2010 at 8:05 PM, Shop at " Just Brits "
<shop at justbrits.com>wrote:

> Somebody earlier SAID and I
> <quote>
> Improved braking and acceleration through the fundamentals of Flintstonian
> physics.
> </quote>
>
> So there ya go !!!!!  Consider us BJ-7 guys "Advanced" in tech. !!
>
> <VBG> !!!!
>
> ED
> BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates  AH BJ 7   ]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed Jun 16 23:08:09 2010
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:08:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
Message-ID: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>

Out of curiosity,  Who on this list is going to the Eugene  Rendezvous?  I
was contemplating going and am wondering who else would be there.

 

Anybody heading down from Vancouver or Seattle?

 

Paul

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 16 23:56:22 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:56:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
In-Reply-To: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
References: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
Message-ID: <DC9F0F03-9CF2-4377-B5C6-B242F6720832@gmail.com>

I will be down on July 1 st, overnight. Healey won't be back from the  
paint shop.  So it's the BJ9

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
Sent from my iPod

On Jun 16, 2010, at 10:08 PM, "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:

> Out of curiosity,  Who on this list is going to the Eugene   
> Rendezvous?  I
> was contemplating going and am wondering who else would be there.
>
>
>
> Anybody heading down from Vancouver or Seattle?
>
>
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Thu Jun 17 00:25:24 2010
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 23:25:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] List members in the Los Angeles area
Message-ID: <AANLkTimwVPlLFo2CC9Wmq9YWjsWOfvs9WTSll2x54R2t@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Folks,

I found a pair of possible toys out in the LA area. Providing that
they're still available for sale (I'll find out in the AM) I may be
doing a fly and buy tomorrow with the intention of driving back to
Phoenix with the plunder. :) The idea of running around and looking at
cars in LA while holding cash isn't a fun one. If I pop out, anyone
local interested in going with me? I may go Santa Barbara or
Bellflower.

Jody

--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jun 17 01:00:13 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 09:00:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] LED Third Brake Light
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim96NUOMRcYme2cUxUHhWtKG3dLLtJIMZ3PghYn@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTim96NUOMRcYme2cUxUHhWtKG3dLLtJIMZ3PghYn@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C19C7FD.8090406@chello.nl>

Bob,
I presume they have each two wires, so you do not have to worry about 
polarity of the car. Just connect the positive feed wire to ground in a 
positive earth car or the positive feed wire to the life wire in a 
negative earth car.
Kees Oudesluijs

Bob Johnson wrote:
> Went to my local Auto Zone store yesterday. The had flexible red led
> strips, 2 12" strips in a package, each with 18 lights. Adhesive
> backing for mounting. Brand was Alpena Flex LED. $20. Might be a good
> easy way for anyone looking for this arrangement. They seem to be
> really bright. NFI, etc. I bought in anticipation of my conversion to
> neg ground. BTW, looked on the web site and did not see them.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________

From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jun 17 01:09:36 2010
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 03:09:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
In-Reply-To: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
References: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
Message-ID: <8CCDC032D8ADB87-18FC-6CEF@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com>

The wife and I will be there but without a  Healey (as usual).  Hope to
see some of the listers there.
Aloha
Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: PG <britishcars at shaw.ca>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Jun 16, 2010 7:08 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous


Out of curiosity,  Who on this list is going to the Eugene  Rendezvous?
 I
was contemplating going and am wondering who else would be there.


Anybody heading down from Vancouver or Seattle?


Paul

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Jun 17 06:51:28 2010
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 05:51:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 1955 Sebring Cars
Message-ID: <D643447AF20548CC95119A9A11F61738@TRACY>

from:

Richard Walter <rawalter1 at verizon.net>



Does anyone know what happened to these two Healey 100's raced at Sebring in
1955. They were prepared and raced by Joe Giubardo, Fred Wolf, Bill Wonder,
and Bill Wellenberg out of Long Island, New York. The cars were prepared for
Sebring with alloy bodies with distinstive dual opening grill. These cars
finished respectively over some of the 100S's. One or both these cars were
later modified with V8 power and raced on eastern tracks,late 50's early
60's. Has anyone have pictures of these at Sebring or in later life? Present
whereabouts? rawalter1 at verizon.net



Warm Regards,



Tracy

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jun 17 07:10:25 2010
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 09:10:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] e bay BJ8
In-Reply-To: <4c198c41.04f7960a.0564.0ffb@mx.google.com>
References: <COL109-W308D2FFC112187CCAA5DDADDF0@phx.gbl>
	<4c198c41.04f7960a.0564.0ffb@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001501cb0e1e$73e84240$5bb8c6c0$@rr.com>

The description of the car says it is a non-overdrive model.  The photo of
the engine serial number confirms that the engine was originally mated to a
non-overdrive gearbox.  Another photo shows a non-overdrive gearbox, so I
would conclude that the engine and gearbox are original to the car.

Early Phase 2 BJ8s had only a single light up front under the headlamps.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Schauss
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 10:45 PM
To: 'healey help'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] e bay BJ8

One of the pictures did show a motor.  The tank on the radiator had been
painted blue.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of insptwo at msn.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 8:26 PM
> To: healey help
> Subject: [Healeys] e bay BJ8
> 
> I also did not see any sign of a motor!
> 
> Bill
> 
> BJ7
se Date: 06/16/10 14:35:00

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 17 08:36:27 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 10:36:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 gearbox number
Message-ID: <SNT143-w52CC0F5363C2D03F77E10DD4DF0@phx.gbl>

Should a BT7 with the gearbox (side shift) stamped #11737, match the body
number, be close to the body number, or something different?

Thanks, Shawn

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




_________________________________________________________________
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inbox.
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 17 09:33:15 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 08:33:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
In-Reply-To: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
References: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
Message-ID: <COL121-W55C1174772E2299EA04D1EA4DF0@phx.gbl>

Me, from Lake Tahoe.
Rich Kahn

> From: britishcars at shaw.ca
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2010 22:08:09 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
>
> Out of curiosity,  Who on this list is going to the Eugene  Rendezvous?  I
> was contemplating going and am wondering who else would be there.
>
>
>
> Anybody heading down from Vancouver or Seattle?
>
>
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 09:47:26 2010
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 08:47:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2010
Message-ID: <A00C9452-4352-45A4-BE23-19F26FADB4FC@comcast.net>

All Listers,

As I reviewed the list this morning I saw a couple list members making  
plans for their drives to the Austin-Healey USA Club Rendezvous in  
Eugene, OR, June 28 through July 2, 2010.  The AH Club of Oregon is  
hosting the event.  My Oregon colleagues and I have been working on  
the Rendezvous Committee for about 18 months.  We had our final  
planning session in Eugene at the Valley River Inn last Monday.  At  
present we have 111 registered and expect several more.  I can  
confidently say I believe everyone attending the meet is going to have  
a very good time.  The venue is great, Eugene is beautiful, the Inn  
staff is congenial and eager to have 120+ collector Healeys in their  
parking lot and our team has lots of fun activities scheduled.   
Everybody please drive carefully.  We can't wait to see ya!

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Thu Jun 17 10:14:19 2010
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 09:14:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
In-Reply-To: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
References: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
Message-ID: <4C1A49DB.7040509@pacbell.net>

I'll be there with '53 Red Car.  Alas, due to a recent surgery, this 
will be the first time in 32 years Red has to be a Trailer Queen to an 
event. :-(   I'll be easy to identify, just look for the guy in the 
wheelchair.

Blatant add:   I'll have a supply of LED lights and brackets to allow 
100 hoods to be removed with me.

Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA

On 6/16/2010 10:08 PM, PG wrote:
> Out of curiosity,  Who on this list is going to the Eugene  Rendezvous?  I
> was contemplating going and am wondering who else would be there.
>
>
>
> Anybody heading down from Vancouver or Seattle?
>
>
>
> Paul

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Jun 17 10:25:14 2010
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 09:25:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 1955 Sebring Cars
In-Reply-To: <D643447AF20548CC95119A9A11F61738@TRACY>
References: <D643447AF20548CC95119A9A11F61738@TRACY>
Message-ID: <E0EF08BB-8E5B-4799-AA87-D3561AF298FE@cox.net>

One of them (AHS 3507) was the famous Vincent Sardi's car.

Here's a great story with tons of great pictures:

http://www.classiccar.co.nz/articles/lord-of-sebring-1955-austin-healey-100s-164

Wilko
San Diego

On Jun 17, 2010, at 5:51 AM, Tracy Drummond wrote:

> from:
>
> Richard Walter <rawalter1 at verizon.net>
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what happened to these two Healey 100's raced at  
> Sebring in
> 1955. They were prepared and raced by Joe Giubardo, Fred Wolf, Bill  
> Wonder,
> and Bill Wellenberg out of Long Island, New York. The cars were  
> prepared for
> Sebring with alloy bodies with distinstive dual opening grill. These  
> cars
> finished respectively over some of the 100S's. One or both these  
> cars were
> later modified with V8 power and raced on eastern tracks,late 50's  
> early
> 60's. Has anyone have pictures of these at Sebring or in later life?  
> Present
> whereabouts? rawalter1 at verizon.net
>
>
>
> Warm Regards,
>
>
>
> Tracy
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Thu Jun 17 11:18:41 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 17:18:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2010
In-Reply-To: <A00C9452-4352-45A4-BE23-19F26FADB4FC@comcast.net>
References: <A00C9452-4352-45A4-BE23-19F26FADB4FC@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w45DB0C5B5893F117708A7FB8DF0@phx.gbl>

Wouldn't that make a nice picture!
>> to have 120+ collector Healeys in their parking lot> > Marks 3
> '66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Thu Jun 17 11:31:26 2010
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 13:31:26 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
Message-ID: <1e779.457ca83f.394bb5ee@aol.com>

I'll be there ... heading up form SoCal to Portland to visit with my son  
and grandkids and then back to Eugene on Monday.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
 
In a message dated 6/16/2010 10:50:01 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
britishcars at shaw.ca writes:

Out of  curiosity,  Who on this list is going to the Eugene   Rendezvous?  I
was contemplating going and am wondering who else would  be there.



Anybody heading down from Vancouver or  Seattle?



Paul
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation   $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com

From pieters at pt.lu  Thu Jun 17 11:53:42 2010
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 19:53:42 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
Message-ID: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>

I am taking my car to the local TUV station in Germany tomorrow to try  
to get the Dennis Welch rear brake conversion approved. I have just  
been told that it would help if I could take some proof that rear disc  
brakes were fitted "in period", even if only to the works cars as  
these also carried registration in the UK and therefore in europe.  
Most of my Healey books are still back in storage in OZ. If anybody  
has the time to scan a page or two out of a book or can send me a link  
to some "proof" it would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
Pieter

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Thu Jun 17 12:19:43 2010
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 13:19:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Head Light Adjustment
Message-ID: <9CD8C35A-4E30-427D-9434-411EDA6D6B60@advocateadvisors.com>

How much down and to the left should my left headlight point?  Right  
now it shines about 25 yards out and in the middle of the left lane. I  
can't seem to adjust it further up or to the right.

Price Lindsay

(630) 841-6300 M
(312) 753-7706 T

Sent from my iPhone

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jun 17 13:00:31 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 14:00:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
In-Reply-To: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
References: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <4C1A70CF.2050001@justbrits.com>

Google =

 Results *11* - *20* of about *243,000* for *Dennis Welch rear brake 
conversion*. (*0.34* seconds)

Oughta be SOMETHING there, Pieter <G> !!

Ed

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From pieters at pt.lu  Thu Jun 17 13:10:37 2010
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:10:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
In-Reply-To: <4C1A70CF.2050001@justbrits.com>
References: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
	<4C1A70CF.2050001@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <67AB548E-A462-4BFB-9BF9-8ED692F3D07E@pt.lu>

Ed,
  I don't need info on the DW setup. I already have it on my car. I  
need proof that rear brakes were fitted back in 1963,
Pieter
On 17/06/2010, at 9:00 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote:

> Google =
>
> Results *11* - *20* of about *243,000* for *Dennis Welch rear brake  
> conversion*. (*0.34* seconds)
>
> Oughta be SOMETHING there, Pieter <G> !!
>
> Ed
>
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
> For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
> [and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From dan at warner-associates.com  Thu Jun 17 13:37:29 2010
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 14:37:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?
In-Reply-To: <426B911876A543A0B2D12B325EF8AF0D@ElComputero>
Message-ID: <A3D2FE361B534917AA35D9EC2380C877@DANSTROM>

The brake/clutch reservoir rubber washer does not deteriorate if you use
silicone - ha ha....

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mr. Finespanner
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 9:42 PM
To: tjmorrio at colby.edu
Cc: healey list
Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?

Tom,
There is a thin rubbery washer underneath the clutch reservoir cylinder, and
as you can see it does deteriorate.  I always replace it with a copper 
washer,
which holds up much better.  The concours judges will never see it.
regards,
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks


>Message: 5
>Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:55:54 -0400
>From: Thomas Morrione <tjmorrio at colby.edu>
>Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?
>To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Message-ID: <C83C55EA.586C%tjmorrio at colby.edu>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>Folks,
>
>I9m rebuilding my BJ8 clutch/brake reservoir and see there9s an aluminum
>washer on the outside of the can for the clutch and brake line nipples. But
>on disassembly I found a black substance inside the can between the clutch
>(small) cylinder reservoir bottom and the can inside bottom. It looks like 
>a
>very thin washer of some sort perhaps butyl or neoprene.  I9ve looked in
>the archives and see no mention of it and Moss doesn9t list the part.
>Helpful listers I9ve asked have suggested making one which I can do but
>my question is - is it supposed to be there or is this likely just residue
>from some sealant? (if it is what9s best to use?) There9s no washer inside
>the can for the brake line.
>
>TIA,
>Tom
>BJ8 65 in process 
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com

From britcrs at gmail.com  Thu Jun 17 13:58:41 2010
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 12:58:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
In-Reply-To: <1e779.457ca83f.394bb5ee@aol.com>
References: <1e779.457ca83f.394bb5ee@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimbJx7j_KeJk6MWb_KUNxVnQB6pXp6hrqWdRoV2@mail.gmail.com>

'Nuther red BN1 here. Trailer from Tucson.

Marv James

 here.

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 10:31 AM, <ATIGHTPROD at aol.com> wrote:

> I'll be there ... heading up form SoCal to Portland to visit with my son
> and grandkids and then back to Eugene on Monday.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
>
>
> In a message dated 6/16/2010 10:50:01 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> britishcars at shaw.ca writes:
>
> Out of  curiosity,  Who on this list is going to the Eugene   Rendezvous?
>  I
> was contemplating going and am wondering who else would  be there.
>
>
>
> Anybody heading down from Vancouver or  Seattle?
>
>
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation   $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jun 17 14:59:04 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 22:59:04 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
In-Reply-To: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
References: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <4C1A8C98.3030501@chello.nl>

Pieter,
The 100S was originally fitted with 11,5" rear disc brakes, page 252/253 
in Healeys and Austin-Healeys by Peter Browning and Les Needham. Could 
that be of any help?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Pieter and Linda wrote:
> I am taking my car to the local TUV station in Germany tomorrow to try 
> to get the Dennis Welch rear brake conversion approved. I have just 
> been told that it would help if I could take some proof that rear disc 
> brakes were fitted "in period", even if only to the works cars as 
> these also carried registration in the UK and therefore in europe. 
> Most of my Healey books are still back in storage in OZ. If anybody 
> has the time to scan a page or two out of a book or can send me a link 
> to some "proof" it would be greatly appreciated.
> thanks
> Pieter

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Jun 17 15:00:11 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 17:00:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 gearbox number
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-w52CC0F5363C2D03F77E10DD4DF0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-w52CC0F5363C2D03F77E10DD4DF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F2A9EB1D8AEB415996B44A80C9ADC3D4@LIFEBOOK>

The gearbox number will have no relationship to that of the car as long as 
it's the correct series available when the car was produced.

Rich Chrysler

--------------------------------------------------
From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 10:36 AM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 gearbox number

> Should a BT7 with the gearbox (side shift) stamped #11737, match the body
> number, be close to the body number, or something different?
>
> Thanks, Shawn
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
>
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
>
> 1964 MGB 40841
>
> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
> inbox.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
> :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 17 15:14:26 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 17:14:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 gearbox number
In-Reply-To: <F2A9EB1D8AEB415996B44A80C9ADC3D4@LIFEBOOK>
References: <SNT143-w52CC0F5363C2D03F77E10DD4DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<F2A9EB1D8AEB415996B44A80C9ADC3D4@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <SNT143-w224B9AFAA7E6C6F69C5577D4DF0@phx.gbl>

Thank you for the info.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 gearbox number
> Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 17:00:11 -0400
>
> The gearbox number will have no relationship to that of the car as long as
> it's the correct series available when the car was produced.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 10:36 AM
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] BT7 gearbox number
>
> > Should a BT7 with the gearbox (side shift) stamped #11737, match the body
> > number, be close to the body number, or something different?
> >
> > Thanks, Shawn
> >
> > The Millers
> > "British Car Nuts"
> >
> > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
> >
> > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
> >
> > 1964 MGB 40841
> >
> > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
> >
> > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> > drive."
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from
your
> > inbox.
> >
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
> > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
>

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Jun 17 15:33:58 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 16:33:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
In-Reply-To: <67AB548E-A462-4BFB-9BF9-8ED692F3D07E@pt.lu>
References: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
	<4C1A70CF.2050001@justbrits.com>
	<67AB548E-A462-4BFB-9BF9-8ED692F3D07E@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <4C1A94C6.7030900@justbrits.com>

<< I need proof that rear brakes were fitted back in 1963, >>

I understand that Pieter, but I cannot imagine that the info you
seek can't be found in a NARROWED search that yields
243,000 hits !?!

Had I the time OR inclination, I would look FOR you, but alas
I have neither <G> !!  However, I DO seem to recall 'seeing'
something "on the web". <G>

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Thu Jun 17 15:47:20 2010
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 17:47:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?
In-Reply-To: <A3D2FE361B534917AA35D9EC2380C877@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <C8401028.5949%tjmorrio@colby.edu>

Right, sure - I'll get out my tube of bathtub caulk and fix it. The copper
washer is the way I'm going. (Thanks again Doug.) I'm just sorry now that
the concourse judges have been tipped off and know where to look!

On a more serious note. I want to express-- again- my appreciation to those
on the list willing to chip in and help those of us who at times, I'm sure,
annoy them with "obvious" questions.

Tom,
 BJ8 65 in progress (still)


On 6/17/10 3:37 PM, "Dan Stromquist" <dan at warner-associates.com> wrote:

> The brake/clutch reservoir rubber washer does not deteriorate if you use
> silicone - ha ha....
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mr. Finespanner
> Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 9:42 PM
> To: tjmorrio at colby.edu
> Cc: healey list
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?
> 
> Tom,
> There is a thin rubbery washer underneath the clutch reservoir cylinder, and
> as you can see it does deteriorate.  I always replace it with a copper
> washer,
> which holds up much better.  The concours judges will never see it.
> regards,
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> 
> 
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:55:54 -0400
>> From: Thomas Morrione <tjmorrio at colby.edu>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Brake/Clutch Reservoir inside washer?
>> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Message-ID: <C83C55EA.586C%tjmorrio at colby.edu>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> Folks,
>> 
>> I9m rebuilding my BJ8 clutch/brake reservoir and see there9s an aluminum
>> washer on the outside of the can for the clutch and brake line nipples. But
>> on disassembly I found a black substance inside the can between the clutch
>> (small) cylinder reservoir bottom and the can inside bottom. It looks like
>> a
>> very thin washer of some sort perhaps butyl or neoprene.  I9ve looked in
>> the archives and see no mention of it and Moss doesn9t list the part.
>> Helpful listers I9ve asked have suggested making one which I can do but
>> my question is - is it supposed to be there or is this likely just residue
>> from some sealant? (if it is what9s best to use?) There9s no washer inside
>> the can for the brake line.
>> 
>> TIA,
>> Tom
>> BJ8 65 in process
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tjmorrio at colby.edu

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Thu Jun 17 16:04:14 2010
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:04:14 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
In-Reply-To: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
References: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <514158030B344B158D614133E329441B@PeterPC>

G'day Pieter

In Graham Robson's book "Austin Healey 100 & 3000 Series" on p148 there's a 
photo of a works car (a 100/6 I think but it doesn't say so!) with a caption 
that states that rear disc brakes were eventually homologated for big 
Healeys. Scan attached

Cheers

Peter

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>
To: "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 3:53 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed


>I am taking my car to the local TUV station in Germany tomorrow to try  to 
>get the Dennis Welch rear brake conversion approved. I have just  been told 
>that it would help if I could take some proof that rear disc  brakes were 
>fitted "in period", even if only to the works cars as  these also carried 
>registration in the UK and therefore in europe.  Most of my Healey books 
>are still back in storage in OZ. If anybody  has the time to scan a page or 
>two out of a book or can send me a link  to some "proof" it would be 
>greatly appreciated.
> thanks
> Pieter

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of scan0001.jpg]

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 17 19:29:24 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:29:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question,  Follow up
Message-ID: <000c01cb0e85$b0fed100$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Big thanks to all who responded to my computer questions.   Many excellent
points and
a huge help in getting my unit up and running.

Who needs the Geek Squad when you can get the Healey Squad.

Thanks again,   Mark

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 17 19:36:02 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:36:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Top Quality Help
Message-ID: <001701cb0e86$9d1ab1d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

What is the difference between a Crush Grain vinyl top and the Ever Flex vinyl
top.

Besides the Ever Flex being about $140.00 more.

Thanks in advance,   Mark

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 17 19:49:23 2010
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 18:49:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
In-Reply-To: <514158030B344B158D614133E329441B@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <373853.22173.qm@web53002.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Healey member Jack Brashear in Alexander, Arkansas (Little Rock) owns 1962 BT7
with rear disc brakes. He is the original owner of this car and I believe he
purchased it this way.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Thu Jun 17 20:42:40 2010
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 19:42:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question, Follow up
In-Reply-To: <000c01cb0e85$b0fed100$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000c01cb0e85$b0fed100$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimPrvDiB-Qs9Bc0CJqUSE2ttIRD66nQsHhk_9aQ@mail.gmail.com>

Just be careful, or we'll have you upgrading it with hot cams,
overdrive and the like next. :)

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 6:29 PM, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
> Big thanks to all who responded to my computer questions.   Many excellent
> points and
> a huge help in getting my unit up and running.
>
> Who needs the Geek Squad when you can get the Healey Squad.
>
> Thanks again,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From dcorning at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 21:25:05 2010
From: dcorning at comcast.net (Dan Corning)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 22:25:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] My Forever BT7 Restoration
Message-ID: <A168B6E072074F9185A132E04DC6E1F6@DCC>

Time flies!

I recently got re-motivated to work on my Bt7 restoration for the 100th
time.  I never really thought much about how long it's been taking me.  I
knew I'd get it done some day but there was always something else going on.
Well, I looked through some of my old photos I took after I had just
purchased the project.  There was one with my cute little daughter in middle
school standing next to the bare chassis.  The only problem with that is my
daughter is now a doctor!

I always thought I'd like to do the restoration myself, and I HAVE done
everything so far.  I've taken the car down to the bare chassis and rebuilt
it to where it is today.  I've done all the mechanical work and restored all
the individual assemblies.  However, it seems I've reached a point where I
realize, the major reason I'm not moving forward anymore is because I don't
really have the skill sets required for the rest of the metal and body work
and would most likely screw it up if I tried.

With that said, last week I was visiting the Lane Motor Museum here in
Nashville.  A wonderful place that features the largest collection of
European vehicles in the United States.  (See "lanemotormuseum.org")   I
began chatting with one of their crew who restores their cars.  He does some
of their metal fabrication work and said he would be glad to restore my body
and chassis to make it "paint ready".

We discussed the process, the fact that he would do the work from his
personal shop and the hourly rate he charges.  I was pretty excited about
the idea and thought the car COULD possibly be done before they cash my life
insurance check!

The problem is that while I'm now convinced I need to have a professional
complete the chassis and body work, I'm wondering if I should take the job
so someone that specializes in Healy restorations.  I'm sure the guy I was
speaking with is very talented.  I also know he does metal restoration work
on European cars for a museum!  However, it became fairly clear to me he
does not have intimate knowledge of Healeys.

Here's my request:  I took a bunch of detailed photos of my car today and
posted them on the internet.  I thought I would ask anyone that may be
interested to take a look at what I have.  The photos show the good, the bad
and the ugly regarding my restoration work.  It would be very easy for me to
post more if anyone wanted to see any specific component with more detail.
I would like to hear comments regarding my best options to bring the car
back to "paint ready" or even painted condition.  However, I don't really
want to turn the project over to a shop and have it returned as a complete
car.

You can see my photos at:   photobucket.com/DansHealeyPhotos  

(I didn't know if URL links were allowed so you'll have to add the www.
yourself)

Thanks!
Dan Corning

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 22:14:35 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:14:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question, Follow up
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimPrvDiB-Qs9Bc0CJqUSE2ttIRD66nQsHhk_9aQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000c01cb0e85$b0fed100$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<AANLkTimPrvDiB-Qs9Bc0CJqUSE2ttIRD66nQsHhk_9aQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C1AF2AB.4020900@comcast.net>

Or a Texas Kooler.

bs


Jody Kerr wrote:
> Just be careful, or we'll have you upgrading it with hot cams,
> overdrive and the like next. :)
>
> On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 6:29 PM, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>   
>> Big thanks to all who responded to my computer questions.   Many excellent
>> points and
>> a huge help in getting my unit up and running.
>>
>> Who needs the Geek Squad when you can get the Healey Squad.
>>
>> Thanks again,   Mark
>>
>>     
>
>   

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From rmastrona at aol.com  Thu Jun 17 22:26:00 2010
From: rmastrona at aol.com (rmastrona at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 00:26:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Jack handle for a King Dick
Message-ID: <8CCDCB57D8AD224-1F88-3B48A@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com>

I am looking for a jack handle set for a King Dick B1881 jack.  Anyone know
who might have one or where to look?

Rich

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun 17 22:45:46 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 21:45:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] My Forever BT7 Restoration
In-Reply-To: <A168B6E072074F9185A132E04DC6E1F6@DCC>
References: <A168B6E072074F9185A132E04DC6E1F6@DCC>
Message-ID: <4C1AF9FA.3050704@comcast.net>

Dan,

In my not-too-informed opinion, the hardest part will be the flanges on 
the aluminium shrouds.  I think your body guy will have to fab at least 
some new sections.  He needs to be good with Al fab and a TIG--or 
gas--welder.

I don't think the steel sections will be much trouble for a good 
restorer, esp. if he uses Kilmartin or comparable repair sections (or 
can fab his own).

Bob



Dan Corning wrote:
> ...
>
> Here's my request:  I took a bunch of detailed photos of my car today and
> posted them on the internet.  I thought I would ask anyone that may be
> interested to take a look at what I have.  The photos show the good, the bad
> and the ugly regarding my restoration work.  It would be very easy for me to
> post more if anyone wanted to see any specific component with more detail.
> I would like to hear comments regarding my best options to bring the car
> back to "paint ready" or even painted condition.  However, I don't really
> want to turn the project over to a shop and have it returned as a complete
> car.
>
> ...


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Fri Jun 18 00:03:24 2010
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 23:03:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <4CC63955-98A3-40A8-A470-63904F595E98@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4CC63955-98A3-40A8-A470-63904F595E98@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001401cb0eab$f65fefb0$e31fcf10$@ca>

Hi David,

What do you mean "drilled .5" higher"?

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 10:05 AM
To: Healey List List
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch

We had a car here in the shop that had a problem after a brake
rebuild. The pedal was always soft and no matter what we could not
get a hard pedal. The owner was crippled in one leg and was very
weak. What we found was the flex hoses were swelling when you pressed
on the pedal. The cause of the swelling was that the attachment point
of the master cylinder push rod had been re drilled about 1/2 higher.

Now the original pedal has a ratio of 4.89:1. So assuming 50lbs of
pedal pressure at this ratio your actually on the master cylinder
push rod is 245 lbs.  So if you move the attachment point up by 1/2
inch the ratio is now 6.3:1. Now with 50 lbs of pedal pressure the
applied pressure at the cylinder is 315 lbs.

So to get the same amount of applied pressure at the master cylinder
with a ratio of 6.3:1 you will only need to apply 38 lbs at the pedal.

Now to move the attachment point you would need to remove the pedal
and re drill a hole for the clevis attachment.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Fri Jun 18 01:52:46 2010
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 17:52:46 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Master Cylinder
Message-ID: <A277E099FF394321B1FDE112F3480804@KeithDell>

    I am experiencing problems with my (suspect) Master Cylinder on my BN1
    With the Master Cylinder on the bench in a vise with the reservoir
connected
    to inlet with oil in it and the outlet connected to a pipe which is
blanked of
    there is hard pressure. When fitted back to car there is no pressure when
attempting
    to bleed brakes all the wheel cylinders are new.I feel sure the problem is
in the Master
    Cylinder but lost for answers
      Regards Keith

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Fri Jun 18 05:48:17 2010
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 04:48:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] On-going Clutch Problem
Message-ID: <B3C609B0253C420EB480F8F368002308@FRED>

Some of you may remember my previous post to the List, and I still have not
resolved the problem.  The clutch was working perfectly b/4 the car went to
the body shop.  I put about 20 miles on the bare chassis (private streets, no
police) and the clutch worked great.  Now, when getting the car out of the
body shop the clutch "drags" and does not fully release.  The chassis sat at
the body shop in a cool, damp corner while the panels were being repaired and
painted.  It is impossible to shift into gear unless it is in gear b/4
starting the engine, and shifting while driving is very hard.  Dave Porter
suggested that I might not have cleaned the protective coating off the face of
the Pressure Plate and that could have messed the Clutch Plate up.  I
carefully cleaned the Pressure Plate even though it looked good, and installed
a new Clutch Plate.  I am completely stumped.  I bleed the hydraulic system,
and there was no air in it.  I pulled the rubber caps off the master and slave
cylinders, and there were no leaks there or anywhere else in the system.

With the engine off, drive shaft disconnected, trans in 4th gear and the
clutch pedal all the way down, I can just barely turn the flange on the rear
of the transmission by hand.

Could someone please give me some advice?  This is my 6th ground up
restoration of 1959 to 1962 A H 3000s, and I have never had this problem b/4.

John Snyder

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Jun 18 06:18:09 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:18:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] My Forever BT7 Restoration
In-Reply-To: <A168B6E072074F9185A132E04DC6E1F6@DCC>
References: <A168B6E072074F9185A132E04DC6E1F6@DCC>
Message-ID: <03c401cb0ee0$50c8a120$f259e360$@net>

They are.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



You can see my photos at:   photobucket.com/DansHealeyPhotos

(I didn't know if URL links were allowed so you'll have to add the www.
yourself)

Thanks!
Dan Corning
_______________________________________________

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Fri Jun 18 06:31:41 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 12:31:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question,  Follow up
In-Reply-To: <000c01cb0e85$b0fed100$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000c01cb0e85$b0fed100$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY147-w58A75BDEF4AB3EC9CAFCABB8C00@phx.gbl>

So ... what kind of tires and viscosity of oil are you running in it  :)  OD
installed and working properly?  Were any BSF tools required?



What was I thinking when I selected multilingual keyboard?  Shift - F6 for a
question mark?  And that touch pad is not the easiest thing to get used to (
so far )!


Robert






>
> Big thanks to all who responded to my computer questions. Many excellent
> points and
> a huge help in getting my unit up and running.
>
> Who needs the Geek Squad when you can get the Healey Squad.
>
> Thanks again, Mark
> _______________________________________________

From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Jun 18 06:47:11 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:47:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <001401cb0eab$f65fefb0$e31fcf10$@ca>
References: <4CC63955-98A3-40A8-A470-63904F595E98@sbcglobal.net>
	<001401cb0eab$f65fefb0$e31fcf10$@ca>
Message-ID: <8CCDCFB815E03D4-1148-9950@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com>

Just a reminder to anyone contemplating reducing the clutch pedal pressure by
relocating the push rod pick up point or using a smaller master cylinder,
there will be an increase in pedal travel required.
Gary Hodson






-----Original Message-----
From: PG <britishcars at shaw.ca>
To: 'David Nock' <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>; 'Healey List List'
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jun 18, 2010 1:03 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch


Hi David,
What do you mean "drilled .5" higher"?
Paul

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Fri Jun 18 06:59:43 2010
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 22:59:43 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <A277E099FF394321B1FDE112F3480804@KeithDell>
References: <A277E099FF394321B1FDE112F3480804@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <22EBD0D4A4E84849A30C40AB31036E3B@PeterPC>

Hi Keith

As you know I've had constant problems with bleeding the brakes on the Ward 
Spl. One thing to check is that there is sufficient free play at the pedal. 
If the pushrod is too long, it's possible that the piston doesn't return far 
enough to clear the hole in the cylinder that allows fluid to flow down from 
the reservoir.

If this is OK, the other issue is that air can be sucked in via the end seal 
on the piston when the pedal is released, as the hole from the reservoir is 
small and with everything ewlse in good condition, the suction created when 
the pedal is released can draw air via the seal. I eventually got a pedal by 
(a) instead of closing the bleed screw after a down stroke, ensure the bleed 
tube is full of fluid, and that it rises vertically from the bleed screw. 
Wait for air bubbles to rise far enough that they won't get sucked back in , 
then SLOWLY relase the pedal. Repeat until there's no more air bubbles. This 
way, fluid gets drawn back in via the bleed screw rather than air elsewhere.

Cheers

Peter

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 5:52 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Master Cylinder


>    I am experiencing problems with my (suspect) Master Cylinder on my BN1
>    With the Master Cylinder on the bench in a vise with the reservoir
> connected
>    to inlet with oil in it and the outlet connected to a pipe which is
> blanked of
>    there is hard pressure. When fitted back to car there is no pressure 
> when
> attempting
>    to bleed brakes all the wheel cylinders are new.I feel sure the problem 
> is
> in the Master
>    Cylinder but lost for answers
>      Regards Keith

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Jun 18 08:19:25 2010
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 00:19:25 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Jack handle for a King Dick
In-Reply-To: <8CCDCB57D8AD224-1F88-3B48A@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCDCB57D8AD224-1F88-3B48A@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3E319CD3-723D-419E-8814-68233D54E667@gmail.com>

I asked Chuck Norris if he could assist?
He said "My King Dick has no handle"
;-)
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 18/06/2010, at 2:26 PM, rmastrona at aol.com wrote:

> I am looking for a jack handle set for a King Dick B1881 jack.   
> Anyone know
> who might have one or where to look?
>
> Rich
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com

From medlabinc at msn.com  Fri Jun 18 08:56:19 2010
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 07:56:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cup Holder
Message-ID: <COL109-DS13356DBE93A2FBB1290A91A2C00@phx.gbl>

In reference to Roger Conte's October '09 Healey Marque cup holder article, I
just received part number 1J0858601D, the newer version cup holder that Roger
referred to recently on the list.

This version (2002-2006 VW Jetta and other models) is a nicely done
self-contained assembly.  The extending and retracting mechanism has a solid
satisfying click when it goes into either position, and will automatically
accommodate one or two cups of various sizes.  I like it.

The mechanism will require mounting hardware much as Roger describes in his
fine article.

Like a flex-fan, addition of a third brake light, change from a 3:91 to a 3:54
diff or signal light beepers, this feature is reversible.

Dick Matson / Bj8

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 18 09:19:28 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:19:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <001401cb0eab$f65fefb0$e31fcf10$@ca>
References: <4CC63955-98A3-40A8-A470-63904F595E98@sbcglobal.net>
	<001401cb0eab$f65fefb0$e31fcf10$@ca>
Message-ID: <B5C2CA1D-CD85-48A6-98E0-32F8B38E876A@sbcglobal.net>

By changing the ratio of the pedal you can increase the amount of  
pressure that is applied to the master cylinder. So if you raise the  
attaching location of the master cylinder push rod my 1.2 and inch  
you increase the pedal ratio from 4.89:1 to 6.3:1. This increase in  
ratio will reduce the required pressure to operate the pedal.

So assuming that it requires 50 lbs of pressure to depress the  
original clutch pedal now it will only require 38 lbs pressure to  
depress the pedal and still have the same amount applied to the  
master cylinder pushrod.

DO NOT DO THIS TO THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER. This is how we  
discovered this



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 17, 2010, at 11:03 PM, PG wrote:

> Hi David,
>
> What do you mean "drilled .5" higher"?
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of David Nock
> Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 10:05 AM
> To: Healey List List
> Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
>
> We had a car here in the shop that had a problem after a brake
> rebuild. The pedal was always soft and no matter what we could not
> get a hard pedal. The owner was crippled in one leg and was very
> weak. What we found was the flex hoses were swelling when you pressed
> on the pedal. The cause of the swelling was that the attachment point
> of the master cylinder push rod had been re drilled about 1/2 higher.
>
> Now the original pedal has a ratio of 4.89:1. So assuming 50lbs of
> pedal pressure at this ratio your actually on the master cylinder
> push rod is 245 lbs.  So if you move the attachment point up by 1/2
> inch the ratio is now 6.3:1. Now with 50 lbs of pedal pressure the
> applied pressure at the cylinder is 315 lbs.
>
> So to get the same amount of applied pressure at the master cylinder
> with a ratio of 6.3:1 you will only need to apply 38 lbs at the pedal.
>
> Now to move the attachment point you would need to remove the pedal
> and re drill a hole for the clevis attachment.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 18 09:21:10 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:21:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <A277E099FF394321B1FDE112F3480804@KeithDell>
References: <A277E099FF394321B1FDE112F3480804@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <E84B97A6-FB3D-4EC4-8E39-59E205D9EE5A@sbcglobal.net>

Check for the free play adjustment. If the piston is not returning  
all the way to the stop it will not allow the master cylinder to get  
more fluid into the system.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 18, 2010, at 12:52 AM, Keith Bailey wrote:

>     I am experiencing problems with my (suspect) Master Cylinder on  
> my BN1
>     With the Master Cylinder on the bench in a vise with the reservoir
> connected
>     to inlet with oil in it and the outlet connected to a pipe  
> which is
> blanked of
>     there is hard pressure. When fitted back to car there is no  
> pressure when
> attempting
>     to bleed brakes all the wheel cylinders are new.I feel sure the  
> problem is
> in the Master
>     Cylinder but lost for answers
>       Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 18 09:29:22 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 08:29:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <8CCDCFB815E03D4-1148-9950@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4CC63955-98A3-40A8-A470-63904F595E98@sbcglobal.net>
	<001401cb0eab$f65fefb0$e31fcf10$@ca>
	<8CCDCFB815E03D4-1148-9950@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C7719AA1-C9E2-4C09-B1D9-CCCBE60CB271@sbcglobal.net>

There will not be any change in the pedal travel to release the  
clutch. Since you are not changing anything in the hydraulic system.  
You are still moving the same amount of fluid from the same size  
cylinders as original.

Now if you change the master cylinder size you will have a problem  
with travel.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 18, 2010, at 5:47 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:

> Just a reminder to anyone contemplating reducing the clutch pedal  
> pressure by relocating the push rod pick up point or using a  
> smaller master cylinder, there will be an increase in pedal travel  
> required.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: PG <britishcars at shaw.ca>
> To: 'David Nock' <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>; 'Healey List List'  
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jun 18, 2010 1:03 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
>
> Hi David,
>
> What do you mean "drilled .5" higher"?
>
> Paul

From pieters at pt.lu  Fri Jun 18 09:49:33 2010
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 17:49:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks
Message-ID: <B5022D75-197D-4299-9019-141C75F17B96@pt.lu>

Thanks to all who replied with links and pictures to help with my TUV  
brake assessment. I went in armed with all the evidence and, apart  
from some bolts that need changing, the car sailed through the test  
and should finally be registered here next week,
cheers
Pieter

From healey at hunterbane.com  Fri Jun 18 10:00:37 2010
From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 12:00:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shelley Jack Prices
Message-ID: <1F2ABDEC-1933-4172-865C-96206BC0616F@hunterbane.com>

I just acquired the right shelley jack for my BT7 (no reinforcement)   
and I am thinking to sell the reinforced  one for a BJ8.  I never  
intend to use it, and I would prefer to have the correct model, so the  
unreinforced does not bother me.  So what do ye experts say is a fair  
price?

Olin
sideshifter tri-carb
Raleigh

From mbuggy at gmail.com  Fri Jun 18 10:49:14 2010
From: mbuggy at gmail.com (mark buggy)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 09:49:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sebring Sprite on eBay again
Message-ID: <AANLkTimT05hhdQt6gbIYMpfbHSlj1s7MqwaiXX9GjVJh@mail.gmail.com>

Forwarding on this Sebring Sprite for sale on ebay.  no affiliation.

http://bringatrailer.com/2010/06/16/bring-on-the-rain-1965-sebring-sprite/

Mark Buggy

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jun 18 10:57:22 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 18:57:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks
In-Reply-To: <B5022D75-197D-4299-9019-141C75F17B96@pt.lu>
References: <B5022D75-197D-4299-9019-141C75F17B96@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <4C1BA572.4060307@chello.nl>

Eind goed al goed.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

Pieter and Linda wrote:
> Thanks to all who replied with links and pictures to help with my TUV 
> brake assessment. I went in armed with all the evidence and, apart 
> from some bolts that need changing, the car sailed through the test 
> and should finally be registered here next week,
> cheers
> Pieter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.829 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2946 - datum van uitgifte: 06/18/10 08:35:00

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jun 18 11:15:55 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 13:15:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] On-going Clutch Problem
In-Reply-To: <B3C609B0253C420EB480F8F368002308@FRED>
References: <B3C609B0253C420EB480F8F368002308@FRED>
Message-ID: <D9E4634E78584C00AD7B7FE9CA4F5EF7@LIFEBOOK>

John,

That sounds for all the world to be a defective sluggish and probably 
ballooning clutch slave cylinder hose.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Snyder" <helyjohn at cablespeed.com>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 7:48 AM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] On-going Clutch Problem

> Some of you may remember my previous post to the List, and I still have 
> not
> resolved the problem.  The clutch was working perfectly b/4 the car went 
> to
> the body shop.  I put about 20 miles on the bare chassis (private streets, 
> no
> police) and the clutch worked great.  Now, when getting the car out of the
> body shop the clutch "drags" and does not fully release.  The chassis sat 
> at
> the body shop in a cool, damp corner while the panels were being repaired 
> and
> painted.  It is impossible to shift into gear unless it is in gear b/4
> starting the engine, and shifting while driving is very hard.  Dave Porter
> suggested that I might not have cleaned the protective coating off the 
> face of
> the Pressure Plate and that could have messed the Clutch Plate up.  I
> carefully cleaned the Pressure Plate even though it looked good, and 
> installed
> a new Clutch Plate.  I am completely stumped.  I bleed the hydraulic 
> system,
> and there was no air in it.  I pulled the rubber caps off the master and 
> slave
> cylinders, and there were no leaks there or anywhere else in the system.
>
> With the engine off, drive shaft disconnected, trans in 4th gear and the
> clutch pedal all the way down, I can just barely turn the flange on the 
> rear
> of the transmission by hand.
>
> Could someone please give me some advice?  This is my 6th ground up
> restoration of 1959 to 1962 A H 3000s, and I have never had this problem 
> b/4.
>
> John Snyder

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jun 18 11:14:26 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 13:14:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <A277E099FF394321B1FDE112F3480804@KeithDell>
References: <A277E099FF394321B1FDE112F3480804@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <FF9D1C8D4DB545C7979CEB1BE72CBAE7@LIFEBOOK>

Hi Keith,

Ensure there is enough free play in the push rod distance as others have 
already stated, but also make sure the push rod clevis pin end is able to 
clear the toe board adequately. This sounds strange but if the toe board 
area has had metal work done there and the diamond shaped pressed relief in 
the toe board metal is no longer there allowing sufficient clearance, the 
push rod can't allow full release of the piston rod.

Also, I always bleed the brakes using an Easi-Bleed kit that gently 
presurizes the system via the reservoir. I use an old tire with no more than 
about 12 PSI.  No pedals to pump, just go around and open each bleed screw 
one at a time from furthest from the 4 way junction to closest, until there 
are no more bubbles, and you're done.

See diamond shaped releif pressings for both LHD and RHD toe boards in pics 
att'd.

Rich



--------------------------------------------------
From: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 3:52 AM
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Master Cylinder

>    I am experiencing problems with my (suspect) Master Cylinder on my BN1
>    With the Master Cylinder on the bench in a vise with the reservoir
> connected
>    to inlet with oil in it and the outlet connected to a pipe which is
> blanked of
>    there is hard pressure. When fitted back to car there is no pressure 
> when
> attempting
>    to bleed brakes all the wheel cylinders are new.I feel sure the problem 
> is
> in the Master
>    Cylinder but lost for answers
>      Regards Keith

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of whit2.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of whit3.jpg]

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Fri Jun 18 11:16:40 2010
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 17:16:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
In-Reply-To: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
References: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <COL106-W22F1BAD035B3F93EA4B8CDC0C00@phx.gbl>

I have the pages from the BMC "Factory Approved" parts book, for Austin Healey
3000 MKI & MK II, part "P" (competition parts). It lists Rear Disc Brake Kit,
part #H8462. I also have the "Suggested Price List" page that says "Prices
effective Jan. 15, 1962" and lists the rear disc brake kit as costing $235.20.
There is also a statement at the bottom of the parts list page that says "ALL
PARTS APPROVED BY SCCA".

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon




> From: pieters at pt.lu
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 19:53:42 +0200
> Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
>
> I am taking my car to the local TUV station in Germany tomorrow to try
> to get the Dennis Welch rear brake conversion approved. I have just
> been told that it would help if I could take some proof that rear disc
> brakes were fitted "in period", even if only to the works cars as
> these also carried registration in the UK and therefore in europe.
> Most of my Healey books are still back in storage in OZ. If anybody
> has the time to scan a page or two out of a book or can send me a link
> to some "proof" it would be greatly appreciated.
> thanks
> Pieter
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 18 14:14:10 2010
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 13:14:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Sebring Sprite on eBay again
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimT05hhdQt6gbIYMpfbHSlj1s7MqwaiXX9GjVJh@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimT05hhdQt6gbIYMpfbHSlj1s7MqwaiXX9GjVJh@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <389412.23047.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The Sebring Sprite has been relisted.  It's at  $47,100 but hasn't reached the
reserve.  Here's your chance to own a piece of History 
 http://tinyurl.com/2ejn3qt

The BJ8 (also known as BJ7) reached it's reserve
and sold for $6,500.   http://tinyurl.com/233uu79 
Too Expensive?  To Cheap? 
The right Price?  You make the choice!
 
Ron  




 
________________________________
From: mark buggy <mbuggy at gmail.com>
To:
healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, June 18, 2010 12:49:14 PM
Subject: [Healeys]
Sebring Sprite on eBay again

Forwarding on this Sebring Sprite for sale on
ebay.  no affiliation.
http://bringatrailer.com/2010/06/16/bring-on-the-rain-1965-sebring-sprite/
Mark Buggy
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com

From dthall at btinternet.com  Fri Jun 18 15:00:09 2010
From: dthall at btinternet.com (David Hall)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 21:00:09 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb manifolds
Message-ID: <907988.94179.qm@web86407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hello listers,
Would any fellow enthusiasts have a set of inlet manifolds, linkages, balance
tube and choke assembly for sale or trade ? Do not need the carburettors,
however if available would consider them.
Please reply off list.
Regards David BT7
David Hall

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 18 17:55:48 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 19:55:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Soft  Top Help
References: <001701cb0e86$9d1ab1d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <000e01cb0f41$c73f81f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Resent.


> What is the difference between a Crush Grain vinyl top and the Ever Flex 
> vinyl
> top.
>
> Besides the Ever Flex being about $140.00 more.
>
> Thanks in advance,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jun 18 20:03:32 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 22:03:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Soft  Top Help
In-Reply-To: <000e01cb0f41$c73f81f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <001701cb0e86$9d1ab1d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<000e01cb0f41$c73f81f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <08683191B101424E9D775C17E9356E52@LIFEBOOK>

I can't speak for the Crush Grain specs, but Everflex is a trade name and 
always has the correct to original light gray inside surface, matching the 
top bows, etc. and making for a pleasant light inside environment. Many of 
the Crush Grain vinyls have black under surfaces that make the interior of 
the car very dark.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 7:55 PM
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Healeys] Soft  Top Help

> Resent.
>
>
>> What is the difference between a Crush Grain vinyl top and the Ever Flex 
>> vinyl
>> top.
>>
>> Besides the Ever Flex being about $140.00 more.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,   Mark
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Jun 18 20:28:36 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 22:28:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <001201cb0ef7$295023e0$7bf06ba0$@ca>
References: <4CC63955-98A3-40A8-A470-63904F595E98@sbcglobal.net>
	<001401cb0eab$f65fefb0$e31fcf10$@ca>
	<8CCDCFB815E03D4-1148-9950@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com>
	<001201cb0ef7$295023e0$7bf06ba0$@ca>
Message-ID: <8CCDD6E41155C12-1C74-438C@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com>

The pedal assembly is a lever arm which pivots at the top & is pushed by your
foot on the other end. The master cylinder pushrod is attached to the pedal
arm with a clevis pin at a point some where between the pivot point & the end
that your foot pushes on. If you drill another hole for the clevis pin, 1/2"
closer to the pivot point & relocate the pushrod clevis in this new hole, the
amount of pressure required to operate the clutch would be reduced, however,
the clutch pedal (the part you push on) would have to travel farther to move
the push rod (& therefore the master cylinder piston) the same distance as
original. Lower pressure means more travel & visa versa. Nothing is free! In
my opinion, Healeys already have a relatively long clutch pedal travel. If you
are contemplating doing this, spend a few minutes studying how you would
actually drill this new hole in the existing pedal lever arm while it is in
place!
Gary Hodson





-----Original Message-----
From: PG <britishcars at shaw.ca>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Fri, Jun 18, 2010 10:01 ampedal
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch



Hi Gary,

What do you mean, "relocating the push rod pick up point".  Ibm trying
visualize and am having a hard time.
 [ld have to traver farther to

From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Jun 18 20:45:41 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 22:45:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch
In-Reply-To: <C7719AA1-C9E2-4C09-B1D9-CCCBE60CB271@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4CC63955-98A3-40A8-A470-63904F595E98@sbcglobal.net>
	<001401cb0eab$f65fefb0$e31fcf10$@ca>
	<8CCDCFB815E03D4-1148-9950@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com>
	<C7719AA1-C9E2-4C09-B1D9-CCCBE60CB271@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <8CCDD70A403E259-1C74-45C7@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com>

David,
I must disagree. If the clevis pin is relocated closer to the pivot point the
pedal will have to travel farther to move the push rod the same amount & it
will take less pressure to
do this. The push rod must move the same distance as original to move the
master cylinder the same distance & displace the same amount of fluid.  You
can not reduce the pressure required without increasing the travel, weather
you do it by changing the master cylinder bore or changing the lever arm
length.
Gary Hodson.




-----Original Message-----
From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: britishcars at shaw.ca; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jun 18, 2010 10:29 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch


There will not be any change in the pedal travel to release the clutch. Since
you are not changing anything in the hydraulic system. You are still moving
the same amount of fluid from the same size cylinders as original.


Now if you change the master cylinder size you will have a problem with
travel.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767


www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.


On Jun 18, 2010, at 5:47 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:


Just a reminder to anyone contemplating reducing the clutch pedal pressure by
relocating the push rod pick up point or using a smaller master cylinder,
there will be an increase in pedal travel required.
Gary Hodson






-----Original Message-----
From: PG <britishcars at shaw.ca>
To: 'David Nock' <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>; 'Healey List List'
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jun 18, 2010 1:03 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Reducing pedal pressure for clutch


Hi David,
What do you mean "drilled .5" higher"?
Paul




=

From bighealey at astound.net  Fri Jun 18 22:21:45 2010
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 21:21:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous
In-Reply-To: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
References: <004901cb0ddb$141d8930$3c589b90$@ca>
Message-ID: <7B8E18079354486780E60B9830904C90@JohnSoderling>

Cully Anderson, his wife, and I will be leaving the Walnut Creek, CA area 
early Sunday, 6/27, and heading over Rt. 12 to Highway 1 and driving along 
the coast all the way up to Florence, Oregon where we will cut over to 
Eugene on Rt. 126.  We plan on spending Sunday night in Arcata, CA.  Anyone 
interested in joining us?

Vrooom vrooom,
John Soderling

--------------------------------------------------
From: "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 10:08 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Eugene Oregon Rendezvous

> Out of curiosity,  Who on this list is going to the Eugene  Rendezvous?  I
> was contemplating going and am wondering who else would be there.
>
>
>
> Anybody heading down from Vancouver or Seattle?
>
>
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at astound.net

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 19 06:10:43 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 08:10:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Soft  Top Help
References: <001701cb0e86$9d1ab1d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<000e01cb0f41$c73f81f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<08683191B101424E9D775C17E9356E52@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <000401cb0fa8$72a94790$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Wow,    I never thought about the light and darkness of the reflective 
surface of our soft tops.  That does
make  a whole lot of sense.    The only time our top is up is when we get 
caught in the rain on one of our
car convention trips.   Other wise its pretty light inside the car,  (no 
top)  I have always run with the dark
interior tops but what you suggest shines new light on the subject, 
(sorry,bad pun)

Thanks Rich,  thats food for thought,

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Soft Top Help


>I can't speak for the Crush Grain specs, but Everflex is a trade name and 
>always has the correct to original light gray inside surface, matching the 
>top bows, etc. and making for a pleasant light inside environment. Many of 
>the Crush Grain vinyls have black under surfaces that make the interior of 
>the car very dark.
>
> Rich
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 18, 2010 7:55 PM
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Soft  Top Help
>
>> Resent.
>>
>>
>>> What is the difference between a Crush Grain vinyl top and the Ever Flex 
>>> vinyl
>>> top.
>>>
>>> Besides the Ever Flex being about $140.00 more.
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,   Mark
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From quenty at ntelos.net  Sat Jun 19 10:14:58 2010
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Quentin Schweninger)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 12:14:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature
In-Reply-To: <C04C35038D674FC4BB4C28855EE45C58@user8634b3d69b>
References: <OHWEBSERVER4yD7TfSr00003c24@OHWEBSERVER4.openhosts.com>
	<167D534D-3DA5-4552-8C9F-E2DB6170BFF3@ntelos.net>
	<C04C35038D674FC4BB4C28855EE45C58@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <18314210-D390-4EE8-8952-780584E4583B@ntelos.net>

Guy,
Please re-read my 6/16 message  and tell me where I went wrong.

  Dave


On Jun 16, 2010, at 12:33 PM, Guy R Day wrote:

I had to email su.carb.co about the identity of a pair of SU carbs  
around 10 days ago.  They replied within 4 days with the correct info  
I could print out and pass on to the customer.  Are you sure you are  
asking the right people the right question?

Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- From: "Quentin Schweninger" <quenty at ntelos.net 
 >
To: <info at sucarb.co.uk>; "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature


> You have refused to reply to my three Emails regarding a non working
> solid state pump Kit .
> Now You want me to buy carb kits from you. Not a chance!
> You are still Burlen.
> Not a place to buy anything.
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 16, 2010, at 12:18 AM, info at sucarb.co.uk wrote:
>
> Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature
> SU Service and Rebuild Kits
>
>
>
> Product Search
>
> We have updated our homepage to make it even easier to find SU carbs,
> pumps and spares for your vehicle. Click here to visit our website and
> search now!
>
>
> For more genuine SU carburetters, Fuel pumps and spares visit our
> website at www.sucarb.co.uk
>
>
>
>
>
> We will be continually adding new features and products to the website
> over the next few months, so don't forget to check back regularly.
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> The SU Carburetter Company
>
>
>
>
> Spitfire House, Castle Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP1 3SB, England
> Registered in England & Wales: Reg No. 2005550
> Tel: 00 44 (0)1722 412500
> Fax: 00 44 (0)1722 334221
> Email: info at sucarb.co.uk
> Website: www.sucarb.co.uk
>
>
>
> The SU Carburetter Company is a division of Burlen Fuel Systems  
> Limited.
>
> The information contained in this email is intended for the named
> recipient(s) only and must not be copied, distributed or published in
> any way without prior agreement. Burlen Fuel Systems Limited accepts
> no responsibility for this message.
>
> You are receiving this email because you have requested to. - If you
> no longer wish to receive these emails please visit http://www.sucarb.co.uk/myProfile.aspx
> and opt out of emails.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Sat Jun 19 11:01:11 2010
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 13:01:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 seats for sale
Message-ID: <305D0C6A1D2F4881AE003B087539CB64@atc0f226cd3237>

 Hi folks,

 Make me an offer I can't refuse. I have a decent set of original red seats 
available for either a BJ7 or BJ8.  These are not new, haven't been cleaned, 
and have a few age spots here and there, but they are quite decent. The 
piping is nice. New foam inserts would make them really suitable for a 
restored look with patina.

 I have posted some photos here:

 http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_1.jpg

 http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_2.jpg

 http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_3.jpg

 http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_4.jpg

 http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_5.jpg

 == Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Sat Jun 19 11:47:44 2010
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:47:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature
In-Reply-To: <18314210-D390-4EE8-8952-780584E4583B@ntelos.net>
References: <OHWEBSERVER4yD7TfSr00003c24@OHWEBSERVER4.openhosts.com>
	<167D534D-3DA5-4552-8C9F-E2DB6170BFF3@ntelos.net>
	<C04C35038D674FC4BB4C28855EE45C58@user8634b3d69b>
	<18314210-D390-4EE8-8952-780584E4583B@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikWcmKypP57DJHpnzFlQm969wyQG3euWOIlOgAT@mail.gmail.com>

You should have called them on Skype and talked directly to customer
service.  I ordered a set of 100M carbs from them last year and got nowhere
with emails.  I called them and was the first to receive a completed set
when their suppliers delivered the parts they needed to build a run of
them.  It took a few months, but I was persistent and called at least once a
month.  It was worth it, they are absolutely beautiful.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Sat, Jun 19, 2010 at 9:14 AM, Quentin Schweninger <quenty at ntelos.net>wrote:

> Guy,
> Please re-read my 6/16 message  and tell me where I went wrong.
>
>  Dave
>
>
> On Jun 16, 2010, at 12:33 PM, Guy R Day wrote:
>
> I had to email su.carb.co about the identity of a pair of SU carbs around
> 10 days ago.  They replied within 4 days with the correct info I could print
> out and pass on to the customer.  Are you sure you are asking the right
> people the right question?
>
> Guy R Day
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Quentin Schweninger" <
> quenty at ntelos.net>
> To: <info at sucarb.co.uk>; "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 4:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Upgrade and Save - New Website Feature
>
>
>  You have refused to reply to my three Emails regarding a non working
>> solid state pump Kit .
>> Now You want me to buy carb kits from you. Not a chance!
>> You are still Burlen.
>> Not a place to buy anything.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jun 19 19:18:03 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 21:18:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 seats for sale
In-Reply-To: <305D0C6A1D2F4881AE003B087539CB64@atc0f226cd3237>
References: <305D0C6A1D2F4881AE003B087539CB64@atc0f226cd3237>
Message-ID: <60DDE840454C4B62B502E4728BD5E1D2@LIFEBOOK>

These are most definitely original BJ8 (not BJ7) red Ambla vinyl seats, and 
as you say, they are quite good condition.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Alex" <alexmm at roadrunner.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 1:01 PM
To: <Healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 seats for sale

> Hi folks,
>
> Make me an offer I can't refuse. I have a decent set of original red seats
> available for either a BJ7 or BJ8.  These are not new, haven't been 
> cleaned,
> and have a few age spots here and there, but they are quite decent. The
> piping is nice. New foam inserts would make them really suitable for a
> restored look with patina.
>
> I have posted some photos here:
>
> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_1.jpg
>
> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_2.jpg
>
> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_3.jpg
>
> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_4.jpg
>
> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_5.jpg
>
> == Alex in Maine
>     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
>     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
>     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
>     1965 MG Midget
>     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm
>
>
> [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
> to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send 
> plain text.]
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Jun 19 20:15:33 2010
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 19:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 seats for sale
In-Reply-To: <60DDE840454C4B62B502E4728BD5E1D2@LIFEBOOK>
References: <305D0C6A1D2F4881AE003B087539CB64@atc0f226cd3237>
	<60DDE840454C4B62B502E4728BD5E1D2@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin9rPegIq0Xh6OnX4pDukR_MuQmCLxD_wEcnpKi@mail.gmail.com>

Rich,

Now if we could just get the usual suppliers to provide this proper shade of
"orangey red" we'd be in business.

Curt

On Sat, Jun 19, 2010 at 6:18 PM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> These are most definitely original BJ8 (not BJ7) red Ambla vinyl seats, and
> as you say, they are quite good condition.
>
> Rich
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Alex" <alexmm at roadrunner.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 1:01 PM
> To: <Healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 seats for sale
>
>  Hi folks,
>>
>> Make me an offer I can't refuse. I have a decent set of original red seats
>> available for either a BJ7 or BJ8.  These are not new, haven't been
>> cleaned,
>> and have a few age spots here and there, but they are quite decent. The
>> piping is nice. New foam inserts would make them really suitable for a
>> restored look with patina.
>>
>> I have posted some photos here:
>>
>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_1.jpg<http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ealexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_1.jpg>
>>
>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_2.jpg<http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ealexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_2.jpg>
>>
>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_3.jpg<http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ealexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_3.jpg>
>>
>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_4.jpg<http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ealexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_4.jpg>
>>
>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_5.jpg<http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ealexmm/images/BJ7_BJ8_red_seats_5.jpg>
>>
>> == Alex in Maine
>>    "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
>>    "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
>>    Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
>>    1965 MG Midget
>>    http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm<http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ealexmm>
>>
>>
>> [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
>> to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send
>> plain text.]
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Sat Jun 19 22:57:48 2010
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 21:57:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Parts for sale
Message-ID: <003a01cb1035$2163a280$642ae780$@ca>

Hi all,

 

I've finished a project and have a few miscellaneous parts for sale.  I've
put pictues of them on Picasa .see the following link.

 

www.picasaweb.google.com/justfuelnaround

 

Parts include:

 

1.       BJ8 stainless exhaust system from Falcon (painted black). 

2.       '67 radiator;

3.       regulator;

4.       stock seatbelts

5.       needle trunion bearings - new;

6.       stock trunion bearings - new;

 

A bunch of other stuff.

 

Prices reasonable...not sure what that means.

 

Regards,

paul

From bighealey at charter.net  Sun Jun 20 05:29:48 2010
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 04:29:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Important car on the block
Message-ID: <7A2A8D3DB8814A9D8F8B2C0735A8723E@TRACY>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300438178309&
ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT> &item=300438178309&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT





Warm Regards,



Tracy Drummond



PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Sun Jun 20 05:30:22 2010
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 13:30:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Proof needed
In-Reply-To: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
References: <F4D3F68E-50BF-49BF-940E-F44B658D24C0@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikTRPjY1uKWT6SlQMCBtBsEC2GPJBW9btl9j3pL@mail.gmail.com>

Pieter

Four wheel disc brakes were an option from the Donald Healey Motor company

Here is a link to their price list showing the option

http://www.healeysix.net/Options.htm

Derek

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 7:53 PM, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:

> I am taking my car to the local TUV station in Germany tomorrow to try to
> get the Dennis Welch rear brake conversion approved. I have just been told
> that it would help if I could take some proof that rear disc brakes were
> fitted "in period", even if only to the works cars as these also carried
> registration in the UK and therefore in europe. Most of my Healey books are
> still back in storage in OZ. If anybody has the time to scan a page or two
> out of a book or can send me a link to some "proof" it would be greatly
> appreciated.
> thanks
> Pieter
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com

From gardner5 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 20 09:47:10 2010
From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 15:47:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Weather seal noise
Message-ID: <422622103.6157811277048830849.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Back on the list after a hiatus.

Just finishing up a fresh restoration and put the car on the road the other
day.B  When driving at over 50mph with the windscreen in the down position on
my BN2, the rubber weather seal starts to rapidly move up and down with the
wind and for lack of a better discription, makes a "motorcycle noise."B  It
sounds like when as kids, you'd rig a playing card in the spokes of your
bike.B  Anyone else ever have this problem?B  Suggestions?



Joel

'56 BN2

From BEAU2EVE at aol.com  Sun Jun 20 10:49:56 2010
From: BEAU2EVE at aol.com (BEAU2EVE at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 12:49:56 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to
Message-ID: <9014.2b2dc5c9.394fa0b4@aol.com>

Which product does the majority of us hot legged Healey owners prefer.  
DuraKool matting or Dynamat. They all claim to do the job but who actually 
does.  Personally my trans cover gets really, really warm, I  installed  a new 
seal last year but it did not reduce the heat by much. I'm still  looking for 
answers. The car is running cooler with it's new radiator, but the  driver 
isn't.
 
 
               Beau          

From rbender1 at berkshire.rr.com  Sun Jun 20 12:33:29 2010
From: rbender1 at berkshire.rr.com (robert bender)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 14:33:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 transmission rebuild problem
Message-ID: <000001cb10a7$14bf5f20$3e3e1d60$@rr.com>

Hey folks, here's the story -

About 25 years ago, I rebuilt my tranny; bearings, thrustwashers,
syncros.the works.  Life was good.  Apparently I go some of the lousy
syncros from Moss.  They went bad in a few thousand miles.

This year, I decides to fix that problem, and while I was at it, I decided
to change to a BJ8 clutch.

Here is the total of what I did:  New syncros (I went with the best I could
find - bronze from AH Spares), new thrust washers, I fashioned the pad that
the shift rods bang against in the bellhousing (it's about 1/8 inch thick
made from Tupperware plastic),  It didn't have one at all before this
operation.  That's all for the tranny.

For the clutch:  Resurfaced BJ8 flywheel with new starter ring, BJ8 clutch,
pressure plate, and throw-out bearing, and a new spigot bushing.  That's it.

I switched to MT-90.

Results:  I had to adjust the clutch all the way to the end of the threaded
rod, but I'm convinced the clutch is fully disengaging.  The clutch is
smooth as silk.

                  I go through the gears slowly and I think largely because
of the MT-90,  it shifts smooth as silk.

                  I shift through the gears in a more spirited manner or
downshift without double clutching..not so much like silk.  In fact it was
better with the old worn syncros!

Here's the question(s):  Could this grinding be caused because I made the
pad too thick?  

                                                 Could it be because I
switched to MT-90?

                                                 Could I have gotten another
bad batch of syncros ?  I don't know of a way to install them wrong.

                                                 Could something else be
worn that I'm not thinking of?

Sorry for such a long winded question - any help would be appreciated
greatly.  I really would like to have an idea of possible causes before
dragging that thing out again.

By the way, the overdrive works smooth as silk too, and I have no desire to
switch to a Toyota tranny.

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Sun Jun 20 12:57:50 2010
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 11:57:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to
In-Reply-To: <9014.2b2dc5c9.394fa0b4@aol.com>
References: <9014.2b2dc5c9.394fa0b4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002301cb10aa$7b157680$71406380$@ca>

Hi Beau,

I think they're both the same.....I put it on sides of my trany cover as
well as on the firewall and floorpans.   It did reduce the heat
substantially as well as the mechanical noise out of the trany.  I also did
inside the doors and rear shelf for noise control.

I've put some pictures on Picasa of the dynamat that I installed.
www.picasaweb.google.com/justfuelnaround

Regards,
paul



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BEAU2EVE at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 9:50 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to

Which product does the majority of us hot legged Healey owners prefer.  
DuraKool matting or Dynamat. They all claim to do the job but who actually 
does.  Personally my trans cover gets really, really warm, I  installed  a
new 
seal last year but it did not reduce the heat by much. I'm still  looking
for 
answers. The car is running cooler with it's new radiator, but the  driver 
isn't.
 
 
               Beau          
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Jun 20 13:41:53 2010
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 15:41:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to
In-Reply-To: <9014.2b2dc5c9.394fa0b4@aol.com>
References: <9014.2b2dc5c9.394fa0b4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cb10b0$a29f79c0$e7de6d40$@rr.com>

I don't know about Dynamat or DuraKool, but I used a double-sided mylar 1/4"
thick "bubblewrap" insulation I got from a home improvement store and cut
off a roll at $2.00 a yard (48" wide).  I believe 2 yards was enough do the
whole cockpit and both sides of the transmission cover.  Lowe's has the
stuff in different sizes, but I imagine you have to buy the roll at $20 or
so.
This insulation is durable, waterproof, and is easy to work with.  I glued
it on the vertical surfaces and the fiberglass cover with contact cement and
used the carpet fasteners to secure it on the floors.  After 10 years, it
still looks as it did when I installed it.

Seal up any heat leaks in the firewall and make sure the gearbox cover seals
are in good shape.  The bubblewrap will take care of the rest of it.  My BJ8
is no hotter than any other car without air conditioning.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BEAU2EVE at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 12:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to

Which product does the majority of us hot legged Healey owners prefer.  
DuraKool matting or Dynamat. They all claim to do the job but who actually 
does.  Personally my trans cover gets really, really warm, I  installed  a
new 
seal last year but it did not reduce the heat by much. I'm still  looking
for 
answers. The car is running cooler with it's new radiator, but the  driver 
isn't.
 
 
               Beau          

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Jun 20 13:55:55 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 12:55:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 transmission rebuild problem
In-Reply-To: <000001cb10a7$14bf5f20$3e3e1d60$@rr.com>
References: <000001cb10a7$14bf5f20$3e3e1d60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikxap_f48DwvDmzy5oB_4RDeNYhA5WvY6PcN6sy@mail.gmail.com>

Robert -

The 4 speed Austin box has never, and never will shift anything like a
modern box.  Habitual downshifting is something to be avoided, and if
done should only be done with a careful, slow shift.

I'd rather change brake pads than synchros any day of the week.  It is
what it is.

Alan

On 6/20/10, robert bender <rbender1 at berkshire.rr.com> wrote:
> Hey folks, here's the story -
>
> About 25 years ago, I rebuilt my tranny; bearings, thrustwashers,
> syncros.the works.  Life was good.  Apparently I go some of the lousy
> syncros from Moss.  They went bad in a few thousand miles.
>
> This year, I decides to fix that problem, and while I was at it, I decided
> to change to a BJ8 clutch.
>
> Here is the total of what I did:  New syncros (I went with the best I could
> find - bronze from AH Spares), new thrust washers, I fashioned the pad that
> the shift rods bang against in the bellhousing (it's about 1/8 inch thick
> made from Tupperware plastic),  It didn't have one at all before this
> operation.  That's all for the tranny.
>
> For the clutch:  Resurfaced BJ8 flywheel with new starter ring, BJ8 clutch,
> pressure plate, and throw-out bearing, and a new spigot bushing.  That's it.
>
> I switched to MT-90.
>
> Results:  I had to adjust the clutch all the way to the end of the threaded
> rod, but I'm convinced the clutch is fully disengaging.  The clutch is
> smooth as silk.
>
>                   I go through the gears slowly and I think largely because
> of the MT-90,  it shifts smooth as silk.
>
>                   I shift through the gears in a more spirited manner or
> downshift without double clutching..not so much like silk.  In fact it was
> better with the old worn syncros!
>
> Here's the question(s):  Could this grinding be caused because I made the
> pad too thick?
>
>                                                  Could it be because I
> switched to MT-90?
>
>                                                  Could I have gotten another
> bad batch of syncros ?  I don't know of a way to install them wrong.
>
>                                                  Could something else be
> worn that I'm not thinking of?
>
> Sorry for such a long winded question - any help would be appreciated
> greatly.  I really would like to have an idea of possible causes before
> dragging that thing out again.
>
> By the way, the overdrive works smooth as silk too, and I have no desire to
> switch to a Toyota tranny.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From rpmengr at bellsouth.net  Sun Jun 20 14:22:54 2010
From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 16:22:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation question
Message-ID: <4C1E789E.5050409@bellsouth.net>

I used KoolMat which I obtained thru Paul Tsakarus (pardon my spelling) 
and it was the greatest thing I ever did to my BN-1 (sorry Rich). Whenit 
is 85 outside I only get hot from the chest up, the area exposed to the sun.
Bob, '54 BN-1

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Sun Jun 20 14:32:26 2010
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (Mike Brouillette)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 16:32:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to
In-Reply-To: <002301cb10aa$7b157680$71406380$@ca>
References: <9014.2b2dc5c9.394fa0b4@aol.com>
	<002301cb10aa$7b157680$71406380$@ca>
Message-ID: <273CF3C724784536A611C420090CE3C5@Healey>

I used Dynamat and it made a big difference.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 2:57 PM
To: <BEAU2EVE at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to

> Hi Beau,
>
> I think they're both the same.....I put it on sides of my trany cover as
> well as on the firewall and floorpans.   It did reduce the heat
> substantially as well as the mechanical noise out of the trany.  I also 
> did
> inside the doors and rear shelf for noise control.
>
> I've put some pictures on Picasa of the dynamat that I installed.
> www.picasaweb.google.com/justfuelnaround
>
> Regards,
> paul
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of BEAU2EVE at aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 9:50 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to
>
> Which product does the majority of us hot legged Healey owners prefer.
> DuraKool matting or Dynamat. They all claim to do the job but who actually
> does.  Personally my trans cover gets really, really warm, I  installed  a
> new
> seal last year but it did not reduce the heat by much. I'm still  looking
> for
> answers. The car is running cooler with it's new radiator, but the  driver
> isn't.
>
>
>               Beau
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.brouillette at comcast.net

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jun 20 15:18:09 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 23:18:09 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 transmission rebuild problem
In-Reply-To: <000001cb10a7$14bf5f20$3e3e1d60$@rr.com>
References: <000001cb10a7$14bf5f20$3e3e1d60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4C1E8591.5010905@chello.nl>

Probably the rod on which the clutch fork pivots is the wrong length 
now, as you have resurfaced the flywheel thus removed material changing 
the distance and position of the fork.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

robert bender wrote:
> Hey folks, here's the story -
>
> About 25 years ago, I rebuilt my tranny; bearings, thrustwashers,
> syncros.the works.  Life was good.  Apparently I go some of the lousy
> syncros from Moss.  They went bad in a few thousand miles.
>
> This year, I decides to fix that problem, and while I was at it, I decided
> to change to a BJ8 clutch.
>
> Here is the total of what I did:  New syncros (I went with the best I could
> find - bronze from AH Spares), new thrust washers, I fashioned the pad that
> the shift rods bang against in the bellhousing (it's about 1/8 inch thick
> made from Tupperware plastic),  It didn't have one at all before this
> operation.  That's all for the tranny.
>
> For the clutch:  Resurfaced BJ8 flywheel with new starter ring, BJ8 clutch,
> pressure plate, and throw-out bearing, and a new spigot bushing.  That's it.
>
> I switched to MT-90.
>
> Results:  I had to adjust the clutch all the way to the end of the threaded
> rod, but I'm convinced the clutch is fully disengaging.  The clutch is
> smooth as silk.
>
>                   I go through the gears slowly and I think largely because
> of the MT-90,  it shifts smooth as silk.
>
>                   I shift through the gears in a more spirited manner or
> downshift without double clutching..not so much like silk.  In fact it was
> better with the old worn syncros!
>
> Here's the question(s):  Could this grinding be caused because I made the
> pad too thick?  
>
>                                                  Could it be because I
> switched to MT-90?
>
>                                                  Could I have gotten another
> bad batch of syncros ?  I don't know of a way to install them wrong.
>
>                                                  Could something else be
> worn that I'm not thinking of?
>
> Sorry for such a long winded question - any help would be appreciated
> greatly.  I really would like to have an idea of possible causes before
> dragging that thing out again.
>
> By the way, the overdrive works smooth as silk too, and I have no desire to
> switch to a Toyota tranny.
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.829 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2951 - datum van uitgifte: 06/20/10 08:37:00

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 20 15:22:59 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 14:22:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update
Message-ID: <817742.96096.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

For those of you with an interest in following my efforts to turn a
semi-valuable BJ7 into a less-valuable Hot Rod Healey, check this out: 
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/686804#Post68680
4  Concours judges avert your eyes!

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 20 15:40:20 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 14:40:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Healey Update
Message-ID: <696832.42150.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

For those of you enjoying my efforts of turning a semi-valuable Healey BJ7
into a less-valuable Healey Hot Rod.  Check this out:

http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,8264,8264#msg-8264

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Jun 20 17:36:52 2010
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 16:36:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to
In-Reply-To: <9014.2b2dc5c9.394fa0b4@aol.com>
References: <9014.2b2dc5c9.394fa0b4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D732C448EAF940E1B4BD8C59D731F69B@LeonardPCPC>

Beau:  Check the home improvement store for Foil Foam Duct Insulation, 
Self-adhesive.  12 inches by 1/8 inch by 15 feet.  Less than $20.  Did both 
sides of the tunnel.  Stays cool to the touch.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BEAU2EVE at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 9:49 AM
Subject: [Healeys] insulation questionWhich to


> Which product does the majority of us hot legged Healey owners prefer.
> DuraKool matting or Dynamat. They all claim to do the job but who actually
> does.  Personally my trans cover gets really, really warm, I  installed  a 
> new
> seal last year but it did not reduce the heat by much. I'm still  looking 
> for
> answers. The car is running cooler with it's new radiator, but the  driver
> isn't.
>
>
>               Beau
> _______________________________________________

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 20 18:01:13 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 17:01:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally
Message-ID: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>

Barrett Jackson just posted pictures from yesterday's first inaugural Road
Rally in Orange County, California.  Looks like there were tons of Healeys
participating.  Anybody we know?  Here's a link to the pictures:
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/orangecounty/roadrally/


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sun Jun 20 18:34:38 2010
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 20:34:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 transmission rebuild problem
In-Reply-To: <000001cb10a7$14bf5f20$3e3e1d60$@rr.com>
References: <000001cb10a7$14bf5f20$3e3e1d60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil4SID6tCYmt36yUATGqvY7J2LbrAjVdJ3N3nVb@mail.gmail.com>

Did you check that there was clearance between the face of the gear
and the syncro ring when you squeezed them together before assembly.
If the ring is not made absolutely correctly or the cone on the gear
is worn the side of the ring will contact the gear before the "cone
brake" of the syncro has a chance to work effectively.
If there is a little clearance between these faces when the ring is
pressed onto the gear, and the 3 wedge shaped ears on the ring are in
good shape the syncro will work just fine.
Unfortunately this is ery hard to check on an assembled box although
you can do it.

Michael Salter


On Sun, Jun 20, 2010 at 2:33 PM, robert bender
<rbender1 at berkshire.rr.com> wrote:
> Hey folks, here's the story -
>
> About 25 years ago, I rebuilt my tranny; bearings, thrustwashers,
> syncros.the works.  Life was good.  Apparently I go some of the lousy
> syncros from Moss.  They went bad in a few thousand miles.
>
> This year, I decides to fix that problem, and while I was at it, I decided
> to change to a BJ8 clutch.
>
> Here is the total of what I did:  New syncros (I went with the best I could
> find - bronze from AH Spares), new thrust washers, I fashioned the pad that
> the shift rods bang against in the bellhousing (it's about 1/8 inch thick
> made from Tupperware plastic),  It didn't have one at all before this
> operation.  That's all for the tranny.
>
> For the clutch:  Resurfaced BJ8 flywheel with new starter ring, BJ8 clutch,
> pressure plate, and throw-out bearing, and a new spigot bushing.  That's
it.
>
> I switched to MT-90.
>
> Results:  I had to adjust the clutch all the way to the end of the threaded
> rod, but I'm convinced the clutch is fully disengaging.  The clutch is
> smooth as silk.
>
>                  I go through the gears slowly and I think largely because
> of the MT-90,  it shifts smooth as silk.
>
>                  I shift through the gears in a more spirited manner or
> downshift without double clutching..not so much like silk.  In fact it was
> better with the old worn syncros!
>
> Here's the question(s):  Could this grinding be caused because I made the
> pad too thick?
>
>                                                 Could it be because I
> switched to MT-90?
>
>                                                 Could I have gotten another
> bad batch of syncros ?  I don't know of a way to install them wrong.
>
>                                                 Could something else be
> worn that I'm not thinking of?
>
> Sorry for such a long winded question - any help would be appreciated
> greatly.  I really would like to have an idea of possible causes before
> dragging that thing out again.
>
> By the way, the overdrive works smooth as silk too, and I have no desire to
> switch to a Toyota tranny.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Jun 20 19:26:41 2010
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 20:26:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Weather seal noise
In-Reply-To: <422622103.6157811277048830849.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <422622103.6157811277048830849.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1A877182B33446D3AE9F1E69E463F578@GregPC>

Mine always did that too, but the onset was somewhere around 30 or 35, I 
decided the down position was more for looking cool when parked than driving 
around, never came up with a solution, Greg Lemon

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jun 20 19:37:21 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 21:37:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20100620213721.6GMOP.151848.root@pamxwww01-z01>

Looks like there was a dirth of any other Brit cars.  Loads of Healeys, like you said.

tom

---- Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Barrett Jackson just posted pictures from yesterday's first inaugural Road
Rally in Orange County, California.  Looks like there were tons of Healeys
participating.  Anybody we know?  Here's a link to the pictures:
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/orangecounty/roadrally/


_________________________________________________________________
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From bn1 at pacbell.net  Sun Jun 20 22:59:50 2010
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 21:59:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C1EF1C6.9010100@pacbell.net>

Richard and List,

Thanks for posting the link.  The Healeys were from The Austin-Healey 
Association of Southern California.  My Healey is in a few of the 
pictures including the one where we were "leader of the pack".  That's 
me in the hat waving while my caregiver drives.  (The only reason we 
were leading was because mine was the earliest Healey there.)  The 
parade was limited to 100 cars but our Vice President/activities 
director jumped right in at the beginning and nailed down 20 spaces for us!

I hope this shows what a very active group we have and I'd like to put 
in a plug for our Club.  We broke 200 members this year representing 
over 300 Healeys.  (Doesn't everyone have more than one?)  We have many 
activities of our own as well as participating individually or as a 
group in other automotive events.  We have been in existence 
continuously for 36 years.  I highly recommend anyone living in the 
Southern California area to attend a few of our events and meet us.  We 
are extremely proud of both our newsletter and website:  
http://austin-healey.org/  You can go there to see our event calendar 
and, for the time being, review past issues of our newsletter, Healey 
Motor News.

Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 Red Car

On 6/20/2010 05:01 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> Barrett Jackson just posted pictures from yesterday's first inaugural Road
> Rally in Orange County, California.  Looks like there were tons of Healeys
> participating.  Anybody we know?  Here's a link to the pictures:
> http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/orangecounty/roadrally/

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sun Jun 20 23:01:08 2010
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 22:01:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [SPAM]  Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004f01cb10fe$c35e8400$4a1b8c00$@com>

Hi Richard.  We had approx 20 Healeys from the Austin Healey Association
participate in the rally.  

Bruce
Brea, CA
1960 BN 7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 5:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [SPAM] [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally

Barrett Jackson just posted pictures from yesterday's first inaugural Road
Rally in Orange County, California.  Looks like there were tons of Healeys
participating.  Anybody we know?  Here's a link to the pictures:
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/orangecounty/roadrally/


_________________________________________________________________
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L
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sun Jun 20 23:02:11 2010
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 22:02:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally
In-Reply-To: <20100620213721.6GMOP.151848.root@pamxwww01-z01>
References: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>
	<20100620213721.6GMOP.151848.root@pamxwww01-z01>
Message-ID: <005001cb10fe$e8cdcc50$ba6964f0$@com>

Three Triumphs (TR3, TR6, Spitfire) and one Mini with a Honda VTEC that I
saw.

Bruce
Brea, CA
1960 BN 7


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2010 6:37 PM
To: Richard Kahn; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally

Looks like there was a dirth of any other Brit cars.  Loads of Healeys, like
you said.

tom

---- Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Barrett Jackson just posted pictures from yesterday's first inaugural Road
Rally in Orange County, California.  Looks like there were tons of Healeys
participating.  Anybody we know?  Here's a link to the pictures:
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/orangecounty/roadrally/


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
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:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jun 21 01:20:57 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 15:20:57 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update
In-Reply-To: <817742.96096.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <817742.96096.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinkkISqHC_-fvtvK3pQN9e3lAlH8S-GP5ZabMUo@mail.gmail.com>

Rick -

Very nice work, looks like it will be a very nice job when finished.  Just
one question... you seem to think keeping the old Lucas Voltage Regulator
will fool the novices???

Alan

On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at 5:22 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

> For those of you with an interest in following my efforts to turn a
> semi-valuable BJ7 into a less-valuable Hot Rod Healey, check this out:
>
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/686804#Post68680
> 4  Concours judges avert your eyes!
>
> Rick

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jun 21 01:47:22 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 09:47:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 transmission rebuild problem
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikxap_f48DwvDmzy5oB_4RDeNYhA5WvY6PcN6sy@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001cb10a7$14bf5f20$3e3e1d60$@rr.com>
	<AANLkTikxap_f48DwvDmzy5oB_4RDeNYhA5WvY6PcN6sy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C1F190A.1000104@chello.nl>

You can speed up the shifting considerably by double declutching. 
However it will take some practice. This way you also avoid wear to the 
syncro's.
My first car was a Fiat 500, which had a 4 sp. non synchro box. In the 
end I could change gears without using the clutch at all, just changing 
on the gas pedal only. Since then i have always changed gear by double 
declutching out of habit.
A couple of month ago the clutch bearing of my Subaru broke in pieces 
leaving me with a fsolid clutch. I could get by for a few days with 
starting in first low gear on the starter motor and then changing gears 
matching the engine speed with the gearbox with the throttle.

Kees Oudesluijs


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Robert -
>
> The 4 speed Austin box has never, and never will shift anything like a
> modern box.  Habitual downshifting is something to be avoided, and if
> done should only be done with a careful, slow shift.
>
> I'd rather change brake pads than synchros any day of the week.  It is
> what it is.
>
> Alan

From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Mon Jun 21 03:14:45 2010
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:14:45 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] I'm a Healey owner once again!!
Message-ID: <AANLkTimNOD6j25l9HvMwjpYMi9g6m7DicZPNQuvJkVtd@mail.gmail.com>

Hello listers

My search for a Healey is now over. I have purchased a 1956 Longbridge
100-Six number 30524, a very early car that was originally a dealer
demonstrator in the south of England.

The car  had a ground up total renovation between 1988 and 1990 including
new chassis rails and outriggers and most body panels. At that time the
perculiarities of the Longbridge 100-Sixs were not well known and many parts
were not available. Consequently the car has been restored using interior
and top parts for the later 100-Sixs.and 3000s.

In addition I have now confirmed that a 3000 engine was fitted. Possibly
from a BJ7 as the car has HS6 carbs when it would have been more logical to
fit HD6s. It also has 72 spoke painted wires, spot lights, an oil cooler and
an aluminium bonnet which was ordered with the ridge in the centre. The only
interior parts from the early 100-Six that remain are the deep seat bases.

I was looking for a red car to make into a rally replica but when I saw this
one it was just too good to pass up and I've gone full circle back to a
Healey Blue over white car. The car was repainted in 2007 and is immaculate.

I found it on the west coast of Ireland and collected it last week. I was
confident it was a very sorted example so decided to drive it to Cumbria in
the north of England for my first 'run'. That was about 700 kms and it never
missed a beat. The drive was from County Claire across Ireland to Dublin
where I took the ferry to Holyhead in Angelsey then drove along the north
Wales coastline, which is a beautiful drive. From there is was about a
further 260 kms to get to the Lake District in Cumbria. the weather was
perfect and it was a fantastic way to be begin my re-introduction to Healey
ownership.

The car will stay garaged with family in Cumbria until it has been tested
and registered as a UK car. I'll then have to plan the trip to Malta which
should be interesting!

I've posted a photo of the car on the homepage of my website at

www.healeysix.net

Happy Healying

Derek

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 21 05:09:55 2010
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 07:09:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] I'm a Healey owner once again!!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimNOD6j25l9HvMwjpYMi9g6m7DicZPNQuvJkVtd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimNOD6j25l9HvMwjpYMi9g6m7DicZPNQuvJkVtd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w645E74216A8450C1A384A1C5C30@phx.gbl>

Derek - CONGRATULATIONS!!!!





I know the Longbridge has found a good home, now there are at least 2 on
Malta



jim

> Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:14:45 +0200
> From: derek.c.job at gmail.com
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] I'm a Healey owner once again!!
>
> Hello listers
>
> My search for a Healey is now over. I have purchased a 1956 Longbridge
> 100-Six number 30524, a very early car that was originally a dealer
> demonstrator in the south of England.
>
> The car had a ground up total renovation between 1988 and 1990 including
> new chassis rails and outriggers and most body panels. At that time the
> perculiarities of the Longbridge 100-Sixs were not well known and many
parts
> were not available. Consequently the car has been restored using interior
> and top parts for the later 100-Sixs.and 3000s.
>
> In addition I have now confirmed that a 3000 engine was fitted. Possibly
> from a BJ7 as the car has HS6 carbs when it would have been more logical to
> fit HD6s. It also has 72 spoke painted wires, spot lights, an oil cooler
and
> an aluminium bonnet which was ordered with the ridge in the centre. The
only
> interior parts from the early 100-Six that remain are the deep seat bases.
>
> I was looking for a red car to make into a rally replica but when I saw
this
> one it was just too good to pass up and I've gone full circle back to a
> Healey Blue over white car. The car was repainted in 2007 and is
immaculate.
>
> I found it on the west coast of Ireland and collected it last week. I was
> confident it was a very sorted example so decided to drive it to Cumbria in
> the north of England for my first 'run'. That was about 700 kms and it
never
> missed a beat. The drive was from County Claire across Ireland to Dublin
> where I took the ferry to Holyhead in Angelsey then drove along the north
> Wales coastline, which is a beautiful drive. From there is was about a
> further 260 kms to get to the Lake District in Cumbria. the weather was
> perfect and it was a fantastic way to be begin my re-introduction to Healey
> ownership.
>
> The car will stay garaged with family in Cumbria until it has been tested
> and registered as a UK car. I'll then have to plan the trip to Malta which
> should be interesting!
>
> I've posted a photo of the car on the homepage of my website at
>
> www.healeysix.net
>
> Happy Healying
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
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http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From edriver at sasktel.net  Mon Jun 21 06:11:10 2010
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 06:11:10 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] I'm a Healey owner once again!!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimNOD6j25l9HvMwjpYMi9g6m7DicZPNQuvJkVtd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimNOD6j25l9HvMwjpYMi9g6m7DicZPNQuvJkVtd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C1F56DE.9070501@sasktel.net>

Excellent Derek - enjoy the open road!
Regards
Ed
Saskatoon

Derek Job wrote:
> Hello listers
>
> My search for a Healey is now over. I have purchased a 1956 Longbridge
> 100-Six number 30524, a very early car that was originally a dealer
> demonstrator in the south of England.
>
> The car  had a ground up total renovation between 1988 and 1990 including
> new chassis rails and outriggers and most body panels. At that time the
> perculiarities of the Longbridge 100-Sixs were not well known and many parts
> were not available. Consequently the car has been restored using interior
> and top parts for the later 100-Sixs.and 3000s.
>
> In addition I have now confirmed that a 3000 engine was fitted. Possibly
> from a BJ7 as the car has HS6 carbs when it would have been more logical to
> fit HD6s. It also has 72 spoke painted wires, spot lights, an oil cooler and
> an aluminium bonnet which was ordered with the ridge in the centre. The only
> interior parts from the early 100-Six that remain are the deep seat bases.
>
> I was looking for a red car to make into a rally replica but when I saw this
> one it was just too good to pass up and I've gone full circle back to a
> Healey Blue over white car. The car was repainted in 2007 and is immaculate.
>
> I found it on the west coast of Ireland and collected it last week. I was
> confident it was a very sorted example so decided to drive it to Cumbria in
> the north of England for my first 'run'. That was about 700 kms and it never
> missed a beat. The drive was from County Claire across Ireland to Dublin
> where I took the ferry to Holyhead in Angelsey then drove along the north
> Wales coastline, which is a beautiful drive. From there is was about a
> further 260 kms to get to the Lake District in Cumbria. the weather was
> perfect and it was a fantastic way to be begin my re-introduction to Healey
> ownership.
>
> The car will stay garaged with family in Cumbria until it has been tested
> and registered as a UK car. I'll then have to plan the trip to Malta which
> should be interesting!
>
> I've posted a photo of the car on the homepage of my website at
>
> www.healeysix.net
>
> Happy Healying
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 21 13:09:34 2010
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 15:09:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally
In-Reply-To: <4C1EF1C6.9010100@pacbell.net>
References: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>
	<4C1EF1C6.9010100@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS4C75EC8138AC2CC4538B5B3C30@phx.gbl>

Way to go! Great participation! Congratulations!
Gary Brierton 

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mr. Bill" <bn1 at pacbell.net>
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 12:59 AM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Jun 21 15:46:15 2010
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 07:46:15 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Photo Please
Message-ID: <55DB4CFE0BA642A09ED3F621969BC66C@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

I am on the search for a photo please for an article for our club magazine.

 

If you have a photo of an engine bay, predominantly showing the carbs could
you please send it to me? High resolution please and thanks, but original
please - no Webers. Four or six - it doesn't matter.

 

Many thanks

 

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Mon Jun 21 16:03:43 2010
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 17:03:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Restoration question
Message-ID: <09a801cb118d$9d488e70$d7d9ab50$@net>

I am replacing the inner and outer sills on my BT7.  The hinge pillar and
shut pillar are still in place. The question is do you weld the inner and
outer together and then install, or is necessary to first install  the inner
and then the outer? With the pillars in place, if I install the inner then I
can't get the outer in place. Any advice is welcome.

Herb Miller

1960 AN5

1962 BT7

1967 BJ8

From jpayne at ThorCon.net  Mon Jun 21 17:34:09 2010
From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 16:34:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Phoenix Upholstery
In-Reply-To: <09a801cb118d$9d488e70$d7d9ab50$@net>
References: <09a801cb118d$9d488e70$d7d9ab50$@net>
Message-ID: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65446CC737C9C@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>

Anybody have any experience with Dave at Phoenix Upholstery?

He has my check, but I still have no carpets, no returned phone calls and no
returned emails.

Thanks,

Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084



"This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the
use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed.  If you have
received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007
and delete all copies from your system.  It is not the intent of the sender to
solicit any person or business.  Please note that any opinions in this email
are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor
Construction, Incorporated.  Finally, the recipient should check this email
and any attachments for the presence of viruses.  The company accepts no
liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this
email."

From pennell at cox.net  Mon Jun 21 17:39:20 2010
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 19:39:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Restoration question
In-Reply-To: <09a801cb118d$9d488e70$d7d9ab50$@net>
Message-ID: <20100621193920.WUR6H.823511.imail@eastrmwml49>

Herb,

On the restos I have done I assembled the two parts of the inner together (using plug welds) first.  Then these are put into position relative to the outriggers and the rear and front fender wells.  Once in then I added the outer sills or rockers.  I cannot imagine how the rockers could be properly positioned without the inners in and the doors temporarily hung.

Keith

---- Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net> wrote: 
> I am replacing the inner and outer sills on my BT7.  The hinge pillar and
> shut pillar are still in place. The question is do you weld the inner and
> outer together and then install, or is necessary to first install  the inner
> and then the outer? With the pillars in place, if I install the inner then I
> can't get the outer in place. Any advice is welcome.
> 
> Herb Miller
---- Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net> wrote: 
> I am replacing the inner and outer sills on my BT7.  The hinge pillar and
> shut pillar are still in place. The question is do you weld the inner and
> outer together and then install, or is necessary to first install  the inner
> and then the outer? With the pillars in place, if I install the inner then I
> can't get the outer in place. Any advice is welcome.
> 
> Herb Miller

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 21 17:57:32 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 16:57:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinkkISqHC_-fvtvK3pQN9e3lAlH8S-GP5ZabMUo@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <406006.67968.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thanks, Alan.  I'll be using the voltage regulator as a connection box for the
alternator wiring,  Besides, if I ever get tired of neck-snapping
acceleration, it will make it easier for me to convert back ;>/

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 6/21/10, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update
To: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, June 21, 2010, 3:20 AM

Rick -

Very nice work, looks like it will be a very nice job when finished.  Just one
question... you seem to think keeping the old Lucas Voltage Regulator will
fool the novices???

Alan


On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at 5:22 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

For those of you with an interest in following my efforts to turn a

semi-valuable BJ7 into a less-valuable Hot Rod Healey, check this out:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/686804#Post6868
0

4  Concours judges avert your eyes!


Rick

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 21 21:09:37 2010
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 03:09:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mallory distributor
Message-ID: <COL106-W2A7766C8C5BF610F8BB4EC0C40@phx.gbl>

Anyone out there have a Mallory Unilite distributor they want to part with?

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon



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From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 21 21:47:01 2010
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 03:47:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Moss "competition front shock valves/springs"
Message-ID: <COL106-W55552AA53BD3BC7229B35DC0C40@phx.gbl>

Many years back I bought some "competition" front shock valves w/springs from
Moss. Has anyone ever done any testing/comparisons with these parts?
Better yet, has anyone EVER done any dyno shock testing with Armstrong lever
action front shocks?  I really do want to know!

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon



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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 21 22:29:48 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 21:29:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Champion plug tester
Message-ID: <COL121-W1B5E340C6E896AE347EDDA4C40@phx.gbl>

I purchased a "brand new in the box" old Champion spark plug tester (for
 twenty dollars). It connects to any one of the plugs, the coil, and the
 pos and neg battery terminals. It has a scope, like an oscilloscope, on
 one end that has bars that represent each plug when the engine is
started. It is suppose to show the integrity of the plugs. It has the
Champion logo on a black Bakelite case. I bought it cause I have a small
 garage collection. But it is very cool. I cannot find anything about it
 and no one I know has ever see one of these. Has anyone on this forum
ever heard of it?
Rich Kahn

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From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Tue Jun 22 05:48:39 2010
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 06:48:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Restoration question
In-Reply-To: <20100621193920.WUR6H.823511.imail@eastrmwml49>
References: <09a801cb118d$9d488e70$d7d9ab50$@net>
	<20100621193920.WUR6H.823511.imail@eastrmwml49>
Message-ID: <0a4301cb1200$dc19f620$944de260$@net>

Thanks for the advice. I can see my way forward. I was not referring to the
rockers, just the inner and outer sills.
Herb Miller

-----Original Message-----
From: pennell at cox.net [mailto:pennell at cox.net]
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 6:39 PM
To: Herbert Miller; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoration question

Herb,

On the restos I have done I assembled the two parts of the inner together
(using plug welds) first.  Then these are put into position relative to the
outriggers and the rear and front fender wells.  Once in then I added the
outer sills or rockers.  I cannot imagine how the rockers could be properly
positioned without the inners in and the doors temporarily hung.

Keith

---- Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net> wrote:
> I am replacing the inner and outer sills on my BT7.  The hinge pillar and
> shut pillar are still in place. The question is do you weld the inner and
> outer together and then install, or is necessary to first install  the
inner
> and then the outer? With the pillars in place, if I install the inner then
I
> can't get the outer in place. Any advice is welcome.
>
> Herb Miller
---- Herbert Miller <hgmiller3 at qwest.net> wrote:
> I am replacing the inner and outer sills on my BT7.  The hinge pillar and
> shut pillar are still in place. The question is do you weld the inner and
> outer together and then install, or is necessary to first install  the
inner
> and then the outer? With the pillars in place, if I install the inner then
I
> can't get the outer in place. Any advice is welcome.
>
> Herb Miller

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Jun 22 06:14:20 2010
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 22:14:20 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Photo Please
In-Reply-To: <55DB4CFE0BA642A09ED3F621969BC66C@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <55DB4CFE0BA642A09ED3F621969BC66C@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <C027B8B5607F4D0584BD519A4BA4E832@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Many thanks to everyone who sent me photos of engines. I now have a
wonderful selection to choose from.

Best wishes

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Tuesday, 22 June 2010 7:46 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Photo Please

G'day

 

I am on the search for a photo please for an article for our club magazine.

 

If you have a photo of an engine bay, predominantly showing the carbs could
you please send it to me? High resolution please and thanks, but original
please - no Webers. Four or six - it doesn't matter.

 

Many thanks

 

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From edriver at sasktel.net  Tue Jun 22 13:42:56 2010
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 13:42:56 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Items For Sale
Message-ID: <4C211240.6020405@sasktel.net>

The following items (new) are for sale:  Lempert crown and pinion;  Smithy's
transmission conversion kit;  used 5-speed toyota transmission; and  
used BJ8
camshaft.  Sheet metal items (new)for BN1/BN2: rear cross member with
bumper supports; rear axle bulkhead early BN1; inner sills l/r; outer 
sills l/r;
rear pillar l/r with portion inner fender; out riggers l/r; battery 
supports (4);
rear inner wing bottom pieces for repairs.  Only serious inquires please.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 22 18:30:15 2010
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 17:30:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] I'm a Healey owner once again!!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimNOD6j25l9HvMwjpYMi9g6m7DicZPNQuvJkVtd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <981499.39826.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Derek;   Earlier today Graham Secord and I were talking about your new
acquisition and trip.  Both sound like a lot of fun.   From both of us, a Big
Congratulations.
--Scott
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Mon, 6/21/10, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] I'm a Healey owner once again!!
To: "Forum" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Monday, June 21, 2010, 5:14 AM


Hello listers

My search for a Healey is now over. I have purchased a 1956 Longbridge
100-Six number 30524, a very early car that was originally a dealer
demonstrator in the south of England.

The car  had a ground up total renovation between 1988 and 1990 including
new chassis rails and outriggers and most body panels. At that time the
perculiarities of the Longbridge 100-Sixs were not well known and many parts
were not available. Consequently the car has been restored using interior
and top parts for the later 100-Sixs.and 3000s.

In addition I have now confirmed that a 3000 engine was fitted. Possibly
from a BJ7 as the car has HS6 carbs when it would have been more logical to
fit HD6s. It also has 72 spoke painted wires, spot lights, an oil cooler and
an aluminium bonnet which was ordered with the ridge in the centre. The only
interior parts from the early 100-Six that remain are the deep seat bases.

I was looking for a red car to make into a rally replica but when I saw this
one it was just too good to pass up and I've gone full circle back to a
Healey Blue over white car. The car was repainted in 2007 and is immaculate.

I found it on the west coast of Ireland and collected it last week. I was
confident it was a very sorted example so decided to drive it to Cumbria in
the north of England for my first 'run'. That was about 700 kms and it never
missed a beat. The drive was from County Claire across Ireland to Dublin
where I took the ferry to Holyhead in Angelsey then drove along the north
Wales coastline, which is a beautiful drive. From there is was about a
further 260 kms to get to the Lake District in Cumbria. the weather was
perfect and it was a fantastic way to be begin my re-introduction to Healey
ownership.

The car will stay garaged with family in Cumbria until it has been tested
and registered as a UK car. I'll then have to plan the trip to Malta which
should be interesting!

I've posted a photo of the car on the homepage of my website at

www.healeysix.net

Happy Healying

Derek

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 22 19:27:39 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 21:27:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally
References: <COL121-W4953533CCBFFE2242CA7E6A4C30@phx.gbl>
	<4C1EF1C6.9010100@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <003a01cb1273$4567a330$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Sounds like Healey Heaven.   Only in my dreams.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mr. Bill" <bn1 at pacbell.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 12:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson OC Car Rally


> Richard and List,
>
> Thanks for posting the link.  The Healeys were from The Austin-Healey
> Association of Southern California.  My Healey is in a few of the
> pictures including the one where we were "leader of the pack".  That's
> me in the hat waving while my caregiver drives.  (The only reason we
> were leading was because mine was the earliest Healey there.)  The
> parade was limited to 100 cars but our Vice President/activities
> director jumped right in at the beginning and nailed down 20 spaces for 
> us!
>
> I hope this shows what a very active group we have and I'd like to put
> in a plug for our Club.  We broke 200 members this year representing
> over 300 Healeys.  (Doesn't everyone have more than one?)  We have many
> activities of our own as well as participating individually or as a
> group in other automotive events.  We have been in existence
> continuously for 36 years.  I highly recommend anyone living in the
> Southern California area to attend a few of our events and meet us.  We
> are extremely proud of both our newsletter and website:
> http://austin-healey.org/  You can go there to see our event calendar
> and, for the time being, review past issues of our newsletter, Healey
> Motor News.
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
> '53 Red Car
>
> On 6/20/2010 05:01 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>> Barrett Jackson just posted pictures from yesterday's first inaugural 
>> Road
>> Rally in Orange County, California.  Looks like there were tons of 
>> Healeys
>> participating.  Anybody we know?  Here's a link to the pictures:
>> http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/orangecounty/roadrally/
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 22 21:20:08 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 23:20:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
Message-ID: <SNT143-w56736D25BCD4730AB1418BD4C50@phx.gbl>

Just picked up today a 1961 AH 3000 BT7 that was in a barn for 23 years as an
abandoned restro project.  The BMIHT says it was delivered to Stokvis and
Zonen, Rotterdam, The Netherlands.  Could it have been brought to the USA by a
service person?  Was this typically the case?  Anything really different about
a Netherlands car?  KMP vs. MPH?

Thanks, Shawn

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




_________________________________________________________________
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From RCT2BNC at aol.com  Tue Jun 22 22:03:19 2010
From: RCT2BNC at aol.com (RCT2BNC at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 00:03:19 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
Message-ID: <84632.7d8d2d2b.3952e187@aol.com>

Shawn,
 
My BJ8 #33911 was also purchased from R.S. Stokvis & Zonen, N.V.,  
Rotterdam some time after Nov. 1965. It was ordered by a U.S. Citizen then  living 
and working at an embassy in Sweden. He moved back to the U.S. to CT  later. 
He sold it in 1969 in CT and I purchased it in 1970. 
 
Ben Cohen
Tucson, AZ
BN1, BN7, BJ8, AN5 (x2 and for sale!)
other British, too...

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Wed Jun 23 01:17:05 2010
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 09:17:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-w56736D25BCD4730AB1418BD4C50@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-w56736D25BCD4730AB1418BD4C50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinJ8PqVH2ASPZdbZXsS4fFOEoiIJfEAHZx58wYx@mail.gmail.com>

Shawn,
As you can imagine R.S. Stokvis & Zonen was at the time the official
importer for Austin in The Netherlands. As far as I know the AH's for the
Dutch market had their steering wheel on the left,  a speedo in kilometers
(KPH) and an oil pressure/water temp gauge in kilograms per square
centimeter/ degrees Celcius. No special pedal arrangement for driving with
wooden shoes....
Good luck with the restoration!
Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2010/6/23 S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>

> Just picked up today a 1961 AH 3000 BT7 that was in a barn for 23 years as
> an
> abandoned restro project.  The BMIHT says it was delivered to Stokvis and
> Zonen, Rotterdam, The Netherlands.  Could it have been brought to the USA
> by a
> service person?  Was this typically the case?  Anything really different
> about
> a Netherlands car?  KMP vs. MPH?
>
> Thanks, Shawn
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
>
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
>
> 1964 MGB 40841
>
> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
> Hotmail.
>
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
> 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4<http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832%0A6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 23 01:19:52 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 03:19:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
References: <SNT143-w56736D25BCD4730AB1418BD4C50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001201cb12a4$79992fd0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Sounds like a great article in the making for one of the Healey magazines. 
I for one would like to see some pics and hear the rest of the story.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 11:20 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands


> Just picked up today a 1961 AH 3000 BT7 that was in a barn for 23 years as 
> an
> abandoned restro project.  The BMIHT says it was delivered to Stokvis and
> Zonen, Rotterdam, The Netherlands.  Could it have been brought to the USA 
> by a
> service person?  Was this typically the case?  Anything really different 
> about
> a Netherlands car?  KMP vs. MPH?
>
> Thanks, Shawn

From dhugh at tscnet.com  Wed Jun 23 02:31:30 2010
From: dhugh at tscnet.com (Robert D. Hughes)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 01:31:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] I'm a Healey owner once again!!
In-Reply-To: <981499.39826.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <AANLkTimNOD6j25l9HvMwjpYMi9g6m7DicZPNQuvJkVtd@mail.gmail.com>
	<981499.39826.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <auto-000447569093@donobi.com>

Also, congratulations!  My first Healey (except for a new 1960 
Sprite) was a 1957 100-6,
number 30668, built I think around November 1956 (the Heritage 
certificate went
with the car when I sold it in 2000 in partial exchange for a 
BJ8).  Given the green patina
when I found it (the 1957), I think it had spent a lot of time in a pasture...

Interesting website; I'm looking at it now.

Robert Hughes
1960 Sprite
1965 BJ8
*****************************************************************************

At 05:30 PM 6/22/2010, J. Scott Morris wrote:
>Hi Derek;   Earlier today Graham Secord and I were talking about your new
>acquisition and trip.  Both sound like a lot of fun.   From both of us, a Big
>Congratulations.
>--Scott
>J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
>--- On Mon, 6/21/10, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
>Subject: [Healeys] I'm a Healey owner once again!!
>To: "Forum" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>Received: Monday, June 21, 2010, 5:14 AM
>
>
>Hello listers
>
>My search for a Healey is now over. I have purchased a 1956 Longbridge
>100-Six number 30524, a very early car that was originally a dealer
>demonstrator in the south of England.

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jun 23 06:36:25 2010
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 8:36:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinJ8PqVH2ASPZdbZXsS4fFOEoiIJfEAHZx58wYx@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20100623083626.92SET.193804.root@pamxwww02-z01>

I mentioned to him that when I was in Holland (military) in the mid-70's, I looked at and drove a Healey that was for sale.  I don't recall the gauges, but everything alse was the same as ours here.  The car needed much work and I turned it down.

And Jaap------I removed my wooden shoes to drive it:)--but there was a big cheese wheel in the boot:)
tom
---- Jaap Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin at gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Shawn,
As you can imagine R.S. Stokvis & Zonen was at the time the official
importer for Austin in The Netherlands. As far as I know the AH's for the
Dutch market had their steering wheel on the left,  a speedo in kilometers
(KPH) and an oil pressure/water temp gauge in kilograms per square
centimeter/ degrees Celcius. No special pedal arrangement for driving with
wooden shoes....
Good luck with the restoration!
Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2010/6/23 S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>

> Just picked up today a 1961 AH 3000 BT7 that was in a barn for 23 years as
> an
> abandoned restro project.  The BMIHT says it was delivered to Stokvis and
> Zonen, Rotterdam, The Netherlands.  Could it have been brought to the USA
> by a
> service person?  Was this typically the case?  Anything really different
> about
> a Netherlands car?  KMP vs. MPH?
>
> Thanks, Shawn
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
>
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
>
> 1964 MGB 40841
>
> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
> Hotmail.
>
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
> 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4<http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832%0A6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jun 23 07:24:12 2010
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 09:24:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinJ8PqVH2ASPZdbZXsS4fFOEoiIJfEAHZx58wYx@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT143-w56736D25BCD4730AB1418BD4C50@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTinJ8PqVH2ASPZdbZXsS4fFOEoiIJfEAHZx58wYx@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000401cb12d7$5ed18890$1c7499b0$@rr.com>

Of five BJ8s in the registry that were originally delivered to R. S. Stokvis
& Zonen in Rotterdam, two of them are specified in "Factory-fitted
equipment" as having MPH speedometers (one of them is Ben Cohen's car).  No
other special equipment noted.  The three that do not identify MPH speedos
as part of the original equipment do not specify what speedos they had, but
I assume that if MPH speedos were worth noting then KPH speedos were
probably standard to The Netherlands.  The parts manual does not distinguish
destinations between MPH and KPH speedos, as it does with other features
such as external light configuration.
One of the cars with MPH speedo has apparently always remained in The
Netherlands.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 3:17 AM
To: S and T Miller; Healey forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands

Shawn,
As you can imagine R.S. Stokvis & Zonen was at the time the official
importer for Austin in The Netherlands. As far as I know the AH's for the
Dutch market had their steering wheel on the left,  a speedo in kilometers
(KPH) and an oil pressure/water temp gauge in kilograms per square
centimeter/ degrees Celcius. No special pedal arrangement for driving with
wooden shoes....
Good luck with the restoration!
Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Jun 23 08:01:28 2010
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:01:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box
Message-ID: <a06200702c847c1a25713@[192.168.1.101]>

While dismantling my BJ8 steering box, I noticed a stck of 
washers/shims under the follower.
It's curious to me that these don't appear in any of the diagrams, 
and I don't think they're mentioned in the manual notes. Anyone know 
why?

Removing one of these would enable you to get the peg down lower into 
the worm gear, but it would be pretty risky, because the whole damn 
thing has to come apart to remove or replace them....not worth it for 
an experiment, in my mind!

Stephen, BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun 23 08:54:48 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 07:54:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box
In-Reply-To: <a06200702c847c1a25713@[192.168.1.101]>
References: <a06200702c847c1a25713@[192.168.1.101]>
Message-ID: <4C222038.1050108@comcast.net>

Stephen,

If, by 'follower,' you're referring to the rocker shaft the washers are 
belleville (spring-type) washers.  They're shown in the Moss 
catalog--part# 725-115--which I've found to be more detailed than the 
shop manuals in some instances.

bs


Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> While dismantling my BJ8 steering box, I noticed a stck of 
> washers/shims under the follower.
> It's curious to me that these don't appear in any of the diagrams, and 
> I don't think they're mentioned in the manual notes. Anyone know why?
>
> Removing one of these would enable you to get the peg down lower into 
> the worm gear, but it would be pretty risky, because the whole damn 
> thing has to come apart to remove or replace them....not worth it for 
> an experiment, in my mind!
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 23 09:26:15 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 08:26:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] managing my account
Message-ID: <825626.89627.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Does anyone know how to change my account settings?

I'd like to stop getting the digests and star getting individual emails.  

Greg

From brunoverstraete at mac.com  Wed Jun 23 09:39:17 2010
From: brunoverstraete at mac.com (Bruno Verstraete)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 17:39:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed
Message-ID: <D72DC297-CB7C-451A-93D0-2E4674AA9BC3@mac.com>

Dear Healey enthusiasts,
I am urgently looking for a 3.6 diff for an early 100. If i am well  
informed it is the one that was used in the A90 Atlantic. Needs to be  
in good order!
Thanks and best regards,
Bruno Verstraete
Zurich Switzerland where Healey weather is finally back!

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 23 09:40:42 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 08:40:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box
In-Reply-To: <a06200702c847c1a25713@[192.168.1.101]>
References: <a06200702c847c1a25713@[192.168.1.101]>
Message-ID: <A9E8336A-38AC-4770-A7D8-73569CC6DA52@sbcglobal.net>

These are a Belleville Washer and act as a spring for the rocker  
shaft to ride on. They are installed alternately on the shaft with  
the raised part of the washer riding against the next one on the  
stack. There are 6 required in the box.

If you have wear in the pin you will need to replace the pin.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 23, 2010, at 7:01 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:

> While dismantling my BJ8 steering box, I noticed a stck of washers/ 
> shims under the follower.
> It's curious to me that these don't appear in any of the diagrams,  
> and I don't think they're mentioned in the manual notes. Anyone  
> know why?
>
> Removing one of these would enable you to get the peg down lower  
> into the worm gear, but it would be pretty risky, because the whole  
> damn thing has to come apart to remove or replace them....not worth  
> it for an experiment, in my mind!
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Jun 23 10:30:18 2010
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 12:30:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box
Message-ID: <a06200704c847e69c50bf@[192.168.1.101]>

Yes, I remember now a thread on Belleville washers a while back. It 
makes sense that there would be some spring underneath the follower.
Thanks for your info.

Stephen, BJ8

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Wed Jun 23 12:08:00 2010
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 14:08:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tops
Message-ID: <AANLkTinpzSQGaXjFEQlMoUONwt9yY4VQK1tIKtpbyS9C@mail.gmail.com>

Lister's,

I am putting my top back on my BJ7 and need some help.

Does the steel rim at the base of the roof go inside the steel rain
channel?  Or, does it go up against rain channel?  It seems that it should
go inside the rain channel but I am having a hard time fitting it in.  Any
advice and suggestions are appreciated.

Also, what was the diameter of the original steering wheel as fitted from
the factory?

As always, thanks for the help.

Fred
BJ7

From willig at wtnet.de  Wed Jun 23 13:33:38 2010
From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:33:38 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting  glass to BN2 windscreen frame
Message-ID: <004b01cb130a$faea7060$f0bf5120$@de>

Can someone give me advices how to fit the windscreen glass to the frame on
my BN"?

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Thomas Willig

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Wed Jun 23 14:01:56 2010
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 20:01:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] whose fault is that!
Message-ID: <BAY147-w88484634FDEC8524ACD6AB8C50@phx.gbl>

No-one's apparently.



We had an earthquake along the magnitude of 5.1 ( some reports as high as 5.7
).



I was on the road and had just pulled off the highway using an off ramp and
had just stopped ( red light ), checked my rear view to see a huge bus
approaching from behind and slowing nicely and checked my GPS.  Next thing I'm
feeling the car stating to shake from side to side and I think: "the bugger
ran into me.  Not serious ... we're not moving forward".  And, I think: "how
is it that we're moving side to side".  I check the mirror and the bus is
stopped a safe distance behind me.  Now, I'm thinking that the engine must
have grenaded or is running really rough.  By this time I'm starting to look
forward again and I see the car in front of me dancing from side to side.  You
know how soft side wall tires lean way over?  Well, he was doing that on one
side and then the other.  Now I'm thinking that the ramp is collapsing and I
want off.  The light turns green and off we go.  Turns out that the ramp is on
the ground, not supported in the air. ( found that out on the return trip. )



The first thing that I did when I got home was check to see that the car
that's supposed to be on the hoist was where it should be.



I was going to include a bit of fiction in that story about how my GPS started
showing me on one side of the road and then the other, but ... I was lazy. :)



This story is out of the wrong city, as the epicentre was just outside Ottawa,
but it's what I can find.

http://www.cbc.ca/canada/toronto/story/2010/06/23/tor-earthquake.html



Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun 23 14:11:10 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 20:11:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting  glass to BN2 windscreen frame
In-Reply-To: <004b01cb130a$faea7060$f0bf5120$@de>
Message-ID: <115008421.7149701277323870320.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My dad and I just did this for our BN2. 

We got a long strip of glazing rubber of sufficient width (about 3") from a windshield glass supply/repair house. Buy twice what you think you'll need--it's cheap and you may screw the pooch once or twice in the process. Stretch/wrap the glazing rubber along each edge (one at a time) with the same excess on each side, then gently tap the metal frame over it, getting the corners just so. There should be excess rubber on each end and along the length of the frame. Get a new, single edge razor blade and trim the rubber with a slight outward bezel along the length and just slightly longer than the frame on the ends (you can cut the rubber 'square' here), at the appropriate (more-or-less 45deg) angle. When you fit all frames up you don't want any gaps in the rubber on the corners. Don't press any harder with the razor blade than you have to--did I mention to use a new one?--or you'll score the glass. 

There is a specific sequence to refitting the screws in the inner frame and the outer, but I don't remember it exactly. Do a 'dry run' till you've got the sequence figured out. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "T+ B Willig" <willig at wtnet.de> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 12:33:38 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting glass to BN2 windscreen frame 

Can someone give me advices how to fit the windscreen glass to the frame on 
my BN"? 





Thanks 





Thomas Willig 
_______________________________________________ 

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Jun 23 14:56:32 2010
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 13:56:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed
In-Reply-To: <D72DC297-CB7C-451A-93D0-2E4674AA9BC3@mac.com>
Message-ID: <20100623165632.K8BI9.5650678.root@mp11>

Bruno Veryfastete, grin

Michael Lempart makes 3.545 sets.  I ordered one.

http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels

Mike is a great guy.

Tracy
---- Bruno Verstraete <brunoverstraete at mac.com> wrote: 
> Dear Healey enthusiasts,
> I am urgently looking for a 3.6 diff for an early 100. If i am well  
> informed it is the one that was used in the A90 Atlantic. Needs to be  
> in good order!
> Thanks and best regards,
> Bruno Verstraete
> Zurich Switzerland where Healey weather is finally back!
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net

From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 23 14:58:14 2010
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 20:58:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] bj7-bj8 hood wood
Message-ID: <SNT144-w547B19303C03BBBB19BAD7D5C50@phx.gbl>

Guys



Has anyone got a picture of the wood trial fitted to the hood frame showing
the gaps around the window especially the rear edge please? I have just trial
fitted mine and the rear edge on the left door is level with the thin edge of
the glass (viewed from side of car)nand just about flush with the face of the
glass (viewed from rear of car). The right side is flush again on the rear
edge but the window is about 1/2" proud of the face of the glass (viewed from
rear again).



I cannot move the window in (by bending the rear runner frame)as the glass
just touches the rubber door outer seal (on chrome door top) and would still
leave the gap at the bottom if that makes sense).



I have a nice even gap at the top across the window on both sides ready for
the seals / ali cant rail.



I have not fitted the cant rails yet and still waiting for the correct grey
seal.



It looks like the window will fit recessed with the wood on the top and level
with the wood at the rear?



cheers Andy

_________________________________________________________________
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Wed Jun 23 14:57:52 2010
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 16:57:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tops
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinpzSQGaXjFEQlMoUONwt9yY4VQK1tIKtpbyS9C@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinpzSQGaXjFEQlMoUONwt9yY4VQK1tIKtpbyS9C@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CCE12DE1924A77-15B8-1A88@webmail-d075.sysops.aol.com>

Fred,  The rail goes out side of the rain channel.

Larry
'67 BJ8






-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Jun 23, 2010 2:08 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Tops


Lister's,
I am putting my top back on my BJ7 and need some help.
Does the steel rim at the base of the roof go inside the steel rain
hannel?  Or, does it go up against rain channel?  It seems that it should
o inside the rain channel but I am having a hard time fitting it in.  Any
dvice and suggestions are appreciated.
Also, what was the diameter of the original steering wheel as fitted from
he factory?
As always, thanks for the help.
Fred
J7
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Jun 23 15:46:10 2010
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 17:46:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: 1973 Jensen Healey hood]
Message-ID: <4C2280A2.2030008@earthlink.net>

Listers,

Can anyone help Darren?  If so, please contact him directly.

Bob



As you can tell I work for an insurance company.  We currently have a
claim involving a 1973 Jensen Healey and the hood is severely damaged
and needs replaced.  I have been able to locate a fiberglass one from
DELTA MOTORSPORTS out of Phoenix AZ but that is not what is on the
vehicle and the owner does not want a fiberglass one.  I friend of mine
suggested I look to the British Car Union for possible leads which lead
me to you.  Do you have any connections that could produce a hood to be
delivered to the state of Oregon?

Thank You for your time.

Darren  R.  Rhodes
Cotton States Insurance
Material Damage Claims Consultant
3120 Stonecrest Blvd.  Suite 145
Lithonia   Georgia 30038
telephone ( 678)323-7210
cell: ( 404 ) 574-0677
fax: ( 866 ) 671-7080

From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Jun 23 17:46:59 2010
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 23:46:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed
In-Reply-To: <20100623165632.K8BI9.5650678.root@mp11>
References: <D72DC297-CB7C-451A-93D0-2E4674AA9BC3@mac.com>,
	<20100623165632.K8BI9.5650678.root@mp11>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W25541FC345316DC9D94EDDA5C50@phx.gbl>

Unfortunately for Bruno the Lempert gears are a hypoid form and won't fit the
earlier spiral bevel housing.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 13:56:32 -0700
> From: bighealey at charter.net
> To: brunoverstraete at mac.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed
>
> Bruno Veryfastete, grin
>
> Michael Lempart makes 3.545 sets.  I ordered one.
>
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels
>
> Mike is a great guy.
>
> Tracy
> ---- Bruno Verstraete <brunoverstraete at mac.com> wrote:
> > Dear Healey enthusiasts,
> > I am urgently looking for a 3.6 diff for an early 100. If i am well
> > informed it is the one that was used in the A90 Atlantic. Needs to be
> > in good order!
> > Thanks and best regards,
> > Bruno Verstraete
> > Zurich Switzerland where Healey weather is finally back!
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jun 23 17:58:59 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 07:58:59 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed
In-Reply-To: <D72DC297-CB7C-451A-93D0-2E4674AA9BC3@mac.com>
References: <D72DC297-CB7C-451A-93D0-2E4674AA9BC3@mac.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTiktbGnDg3i2TRwSidoKEB9-Wbmh8QMLt6VtGvME@mail.gmail.com>

Bruno -

The only person that sells them new is Steve Norton at Cape
International.  He should have a couple of sets for sale.

Finding them used is VERY difficult - only the A90 convertibles had
the 3.6 ratio, and there were only ever a couple thousand of those
made.  You might also try the Austin A90 club in Australia.

Alan

On 6/23/10, Bruno Verstraete <brunoverstraete at mac.com> wrote:
> Dear Healey enthusiasts,
> I am urgently looking for a 3.6 diff for an early 100. If i am well
> informed it is the one that was used in the A90 Atlantic. Needs to be
> in good order!
> Thanks and best regards,
> Bruno Verstraete
> Zurich Switzerland where Healey weather is finally back!
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 23 18:58:45 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 20:58:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinJ8PqVH2ASPZdbZXsS4fFOEoiIJfEAHZx58wYx@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT143-w56736D25BCD4730AB1418BD4C50@phx.gbl>,
	<AANLkTinJ8PqVH2ASPZdbZXsS4fFOEoiIJfEAHZx58wYx@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT143-w1756C793DEB7ED6E90BF8CD4C60@phx.gbl>

Thanks all for the e-mails.  It appears that the speedo and the oil/ temp
gauges are missing- someone along the way thought they were cool.  I may just
write something up and send it to the Marque (with pics).  Thanks again.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."






Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 09:17:05 +0200
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net

Shawn,
As you can imagine R.S. Stokvis & Zonen was at the time the official importer
for Austin in The Netherlands. As far as I know the AH's for the Dutch market
had their steering wheel on the left,  a speedo in kilometers (KPH) and an oil
pressure/water temp gauge in kilograms per square centimeter/ degrees Celcius.
No special pedal arrangement for driving with wooden shoes....
Good luck with the restoration!
Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432


2010/6/23 S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>

Just picked up today a 1961 AH 3000 BT7 that was in a barn for 23 years as an
abandoned restro project.  The BMIHT says it was delivered to Stokvis and
Zonen, Rotterdam, The Netherlands.  Could it have been brought to the USA by
a
service person?  Was this typically the case?  Anything really different
about
a Netherlands car?  KMP vs. MPH?

Thanks, Shawn

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."





_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4



_______________________________________________
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_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Jun 23 19:19:33 2010
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 21:19:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Redline 75W90 Gear Oil
Message-ID: <57F63F91-A6E1-4FDE-972A-9EE6D8E32600@gmail.com>

No, not tranny oils again!!!

Being very happy with Redline MTL in the BJ8 transmission, I'm thinking about
going to the Redline 75W90 Gear Oil in the rear end. (API GL-5 + Hypoid Gear
Oil)

Anyone using it? Any issues?

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun 23 19:47:55 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 18:47:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Redline 75W90 Gear Oil
In-Reply-To: <57F63F91-A6E1-4FDE-972A-9EE6D8E32600@gmail.com>
References: <57F63F91-A6E1-4FDE-972A-9EE6D8E32600@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C22B94B.2030405@comcast.net>

re: "Anyone using it? Any issues?"

Yep.  Nope.


bs


Randy Hicks wrote:
> No, not tranny oils again!!!
>
> Being very happy with Redline MTL in the BJ8 transmission, I'm thinking about
> going to the Redline 75W90 Gear Oil in the rear end. (API GL-5 + Hypoid Gear
> Oil)
>
> Anyone using it? Any issues?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From banjojohn at cox.net  Wed Jun 23 21:31:05 2010
From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 22:31:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings
Message-ID: <F99AEE1FA5454831B77EDBA35E19C450@authorizf47d14>

I know several of you have installed an Audiovox ccs-100 in your Healeys.  I
just completed the install but it is not working.  When cruising I hit the
set button and can sometimes feel it try to take over, but just for a
moment.  I'm wondering if I have all the dip switches set right.  I have 1,
3, and 7 on and the rest off.  I see the manual shows a low sensitivity
setting for light vehicles with high horsepower.  Should I try this setting?
What are the settings others have had success with? Any other thoughts on
what might be going on?

 

Thanks for your help

John O'Brien

'61 bugeye

'65 BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Jun 23 21:37:02 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 23:37:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed
In-Reply-To: <20100623165632.K8BI9.5650678.root@mp11>
References: <20100623165632.K8BI9.5650678.root@mp11>
Message-ID: <5E0839F6325E431DB70153CABD34F571@LIFEBOOK>

Tracy,

 Mike Lempert's gear sets are for the C series rear axle. Bruno needs a set 
for the earlier spiral bevel axle as fitted to BN1's through late '54.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: <bighealey at charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 4:56 PM
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <brunoverstraete at mac.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed

> Bruno Veryfastete, grin
>
> Michael Lempart makes 3.545 sets.  I ordered one.
>
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels
>
> Mike is a great guy.
>
> Tracy
> ---- Bruno Verstraete <brunoverstraete at mac.com> wrote:
>> Dear Healey enthusiasts,
>> I am urgently looking for a 3.6 diff for an early 100. If i am well
>> informed it is the one that was used in the A90 Atlantic. Needs to be
>> in good order!
>> Thanks and best regards,
>> Bruno Verstraete
>> Zurich Switzerland where Healey weather is finally back!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 23 21:42:32 2010
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 23:42:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tops
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinpzSQGaXjFEQlMoUONwt9yY4VQK1tIKtpbyS9C@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinpzSQGaXjFEQlMoUONwt9yY4VQK1tIKtpbyS9C@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W486B6A9225A22CC0B8B9A4C8C60@phx.gbl>

Fred,

Larry is correct, the trim rail attaches to the drain channel on the cockpit
side with the curved lip in the rain channel and a rubber seal between the
two.  There are a number of screws that fasten the trim rail to the drain
channel.  The top is stretched down and under the trim rail lip that hangs
inside the drain channel and is secured there by clips.  This allows water to
drip into the channel and out the five drains.  Don't place the clips until
you are sure the top is where you want it, tape or big paper clips may hold
things before final clipping.   I have sent you a picture of my stripped down
cockpit with the drain channel attached so you can see where the trim rail
would go.  You can see holes for the screws that secure the trim rail--sorry I
don't have any with the top in place.  Maybe I will get some time this week
end to take a few and forward them on.  Hope this helps.

Take care,

George Haywood
'65 bj8


> Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 14:08:00 -0400
> From: fredwescoe at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Tops
>
> Lister's,
>
> I am putting my top back on my BJ7 and need some help.
>
> Does the steel rim at the base of the roof go inside the steel rain
> channel? Or, does it go up against rain channel? It seems that it should
> go inside the rain channel but I am having a hard time fitting it in. Any
> advice and suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Also, what was the diameter of the original steering wheel as fitted from
> the factory?
>
> As always, thanks for the help.
>
> Fred
> BJ7
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg]

From HealeyHundred at comcast.net  Wed Jun 23 22:29:06 2010
From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 22:29:06 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Delivery help...
Message-ID: <2C163C3B-A58B-4CCA-993C-66AA9A02C144@comcast.net>

Is there any one on the list that might be able to help with the transfer of
funds and receipt of a car and the proper paper work in Des Moines?

Please contact me off list.

Thanks,
Richard

Richard Gordon
Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club
1830 South Newport Street
Denver, Colorado 80224
Home 303-756-7427
Cell 303-913-1171
HealeyHundred at comcast.net

From kaynmike.bham at juno.com  Wed Jun 23 22:40:58 2010
From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 04:40:58 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] back-firing BN2
Message-ID: <20100623.214058.7599.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>

A little snapping once in awhile. Then I put the car away Sunday night, go out
Tuesday afternoon to go get a six pack. (Of Coke, of course.)Hit the button
and, as ever, it fires right up and idles pretty fine. A little flat spot here
and there at idle. Oil pressure is great, so I rev it up a bit-we're still in
the open-doored garage-and it backfires "POW!" I back off for a couple of
seconds and give it a little kick and "POP, pop Poppity pop POW snap, snap,
POW!. I drop it back to idle and still quite smooth, save for a tiny hiccup
every few seconds. I figure lets get it out of the yard and onto the
residential street in front of my house. I could barely make it up the little
hill that's part of this little circuit.   Any ideas?    Mike Gougeon

From dhugh at tscnet.com  Thu Jun 24 00:58:45 2010
From: dhugh at tscnet.com (Robert D. Hughes)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 23:58:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hardtop installation
Message-ID: <auto-000447705782@donobi.com>

In the August 2010 issue of "Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car" there is 
an article about the
convertible top removal and hardtop installation on a BJ8. 10 photos 
and a short article.
In the article, Smooth Line (www.smoothline.com) is mentioned as manufacturing
reproduction hardtops.  Anybody have one of these hardtops? Quality?

Robert Hughes
65 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jun 24 01:50:04 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:50:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] back-firing BN2
In-Reply-To: <20100623.214058.7599.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20100623.214058.7599.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinXIh0iWU6zDux5D0jrqR6kksqU_E_vopl9hkWF@mail.gmail.com>

Sounds to me like you have either an ignition - electrical problem or
fuel starvation.

After your car goes pop pop, shut off the motor immediately and open
up the top of both float bowls. If either chamber is empty that is
your problem.

If both float chambers are full, then start chasing down the dizzy cap
/ rotor / coil / condensor.

Alan

On 6/24/10, kaynmike.bham at juno.com <kaynmike.bham at juno.com> wrote:
> A little snapping once in awhile. Then I put the car away Sunday night, go
> out
> Tuesday afternoon to go get a six pack. (Of Coke, of course.)Hit the button
> and, as ever, it fires right up and idles pretty fine. A little flat spot
> here
> and there at idle. Oil pressure is great, so I rev it up a bit-we're still
> in
> the open-doored garage-and it backfires "POW!" I back off for a couple of
> seconds and give it a little kick and "POP, pop Poppity pop POW snap, snap,
> POW!. I drop it back to idle and still quite smooth, save for a tiny hiccup
> every few seconds. I figure lets get it out of the yard and onto the
> residential street in front of my house. I could barely make it up the
> little
> hill that's part of this little circuit.   Any ideas?    Mike Gougeon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jun 24 02:41:46 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 16:41:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: 1973 Jensen Healey hood]
In-Reply-To: <4C2280A2.2030008@earthlink.net>
References: <4C2280A2.2030008@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikGAqVvvUhi5aNasg11sI7mB1ps_hWmGrefVbmu@mail.gmail.com>

Darren -

Try calling British Car Specialists in Stockton CA, they should have a
good used one.  If not they can probably point you in the right
direction.

Alan

On 6/24/10, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Can anyone help Darren?  If so, please contact him directly.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> As you can tell I work for an insurance company.  We currently have a
> claim involving a 1973 Jensen Healey and the hood is severely damaged
> and needs replaced.  I have been able to locate a fiberglass one from
> DELTA MOTORSPORTS out of Phoenix AZ but that is not what is on the
> vehicle and the owner does not want a fiberglass one.  I friend of mine
> suggested I look to the British Car Union for possible leads which lead
> me to you.  Do you have any connections that could produce a hood to be
> delivered to the state of Oregon?
>
> Thank You for your time.
>
> Darren  R.  Rhodes
> Cotton States Insurance
> Material Damage Claims Consultant
> 3120 Stonecrest Blvd.  Suite 145
> Lithonia   Georgia 30038
> telephone ( 678)323-7210
> cell: ( 404 ) 574-0677
> fax: ( 866 ) 671-7080
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 24 04:53:12 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 06:53:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings
References: <F99AEE1FA5454831B77EDBA35E19C450@authorizf47d14>
Message-ID: <001701cb138b$7165a5e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I would be very interested in reading about the answers on this subject if 
you all would kindly send the
answers to the list.    This is  one topic that hasn't been over done on the 
list IMHO.  Some day I
will be installing cruise on my car.

Thanks,   Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John O'Brien" <banjojohn at cox.net>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 11:31 PM
Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings


>I know several of you have installed an Audiovox ccs-100 in your Healeys. 
>I
> just completed the install but it is not working.  When cruising I hit the
> set button and can sometimes feel it try to take over, but just for a
> moment.  I'm wondering if I have all the dip switches set right.  I have 
> 1,
> 3, and 7 on and the rest off.  I see the manual shows a low sensitivity
> setting for light vehicles with high horsepower.  Should I try this 
> setting?
> What are the settings others have had success with? Any other thoughts on
> what might be going on?
>
>
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> John O'Brien
>
> '61 bugeye
>
> '65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Jun 24 06:50:43 2010
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 05:50:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hardtop installation
In-Reply-To: <auto-000447705782@donobi.com>
References: <auto-000447705782@donobi.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimoes0y2Lmw-N8ILakGyG6_YqOabWBkrRc0AQTM@mail.gmail.com>

Robert,

Why not check out Nical Engineering.  Very nice replicas of the original
hardtops.

http://www.nicalengineering.co.uk/

Cheers,

Curt

On Wed, Jun 23, 2010 at 11:58 PM, Robert D. Hughes <dhugh at tscnet.com> wrote:

> In the August 2010 issue of "Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car" there is an
> article about the
> convertible top removal and hardtop installation on a BJ8. 10 photos and a
> short article.
> In the article, Smooth Line (www.smoothline.com) is mentioned as
> manufacturing
> reproduction hardtops.  Anybody have one of these hardtops? Quality?
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Jun 24 07:02:13 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 09:02:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting  glass to BN2 windscreen frame
In-Reply-To: <115008421.7149701277323870320.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <115008421.7149701277323870320.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7131051AAEB04C2DB49E3FD6843A6E23@LIFEBOOK>

In addition to Bob Spidell's description below, also note that the corner 
brackets were left just slightly loose so the glass and frame could find 
it's own "happy place". We've found this on a number of original cars. Not 
all the screws were left loose. For instance at the bottom brackets, the 
side ones were tightened and the bottom ones (heads in the channel) were 
left just a final half turn loose. At the top corners, the ones on the top 
bar were tightened but the ones on the upper sides were left a half turn 
loose.

Note there should be rubber packing strips to install in the bottoms of each 
channel that allow clearance at the ends for the screws to protrude slightly 
into the channel without the glass being able to contact the screw ends. 
Without these packers the end of a screw could contact the edge of the glass 
and cause a crack in the glass.

Also, the glazing rubber we bought reacts with clean engine oil. The oil is 
"painted" onto the glazing rubber and the installation goes together. The 
rubber swells over the next 30 minutes (so you have adequate time to work 
with it) and the next day the fresh #11 X-Acto blade is used to trim the 
excess rubber away along the edges. By now the rubber has swollen and locked 
the assembly together so nothing will work or slide around.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>

> My dad and I just did this for our BN2.
>
> We got a long strip of glazing rubber of sufficient width (about 3") from 
> a windshield glass supply/repair house. Buy twice what you think you'll 
> need--it's cheap and you may screw the pooch once or twice in the process. 
> Stretch/wrap the glazing rubber along each edge (one at a time) with the 
> same excess on each side, then gently tap the metal frame over it, getting 
> the corners just so. There should be excess rubber on each end and along 
> the length of the frame. Get a new, single edge razor blade and trim the 
> rubber with a slight outward bezel along the length and just slightly 
> longer than the frame on the ends (you can cut the rubber 'square' here), 
> at the appropriate (more-or-less 45deg) angle. When you fit all frames up 
> you don't want any gaps in the rubber on the corners. Don't press any 
> harder with the razor blade than you have to--did I mention to use a new 
> one?--or you'll score the glass.
>
> There is a specific sequence to refitting the screws in the inner frame 
> and the outer, but I don't remember it exactly. Do a 'dry run' till you've 
> got the sequence figured out.
>
> bs

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Jun 24 07:15:14 2010
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 06:15:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed
In-Reply-To: <5E0839F6325E431DB70153CABD34F571@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <6575227F829C44AFB017727E8756D056@TRACY>

Right.

Sorry my bad.

Warm Regards,

Tracy Drummond

PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond

-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 8:37 PM
To: bighealey at charter.net; Bruno Verstraete; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed

Tracy,

 Mike Lempert's gear sets are for the C series rear axle. Bruno needs a set
for the earlier spiral bevel axle as fitted to BN1's through late '54.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: <bighealey at charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 4:56 PM
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <brunoverstraete at mac.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 3.6 diff urgently needed

> Bruno Veryfastete, grin
>
> Michael Lempart makes 3.545 sets.  I ordered one.
>
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels
>
> Mike is a great guy.
>
> Tracy
> ---- Bruno Verstraete <brunoverstraete at mac.com> wrote:
>> Dear Healey enthusiasts,
>> I am urgently looking for a 3.6 diff for an early 100. If i am well
>> informed it is the one that was used in the A90 Atlantic. Needs to be
>> in good order!
>> Thanks and best regards,
>> Bruno Verstraete
>> Zurich Switzerland where Healey weather is finally back!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Thu Jun 24 07:23:35 2010
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 09:23:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings
In-Reply-To: <001701cb138b$7165a5e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <F99AEE1FA5454831B77EDBA35E19C450@authorizf47d14>
	<001701cb138b$7165a5e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <736B2B48-0D51-462A-B4E7-7D94BA4CDE9C@mac.com>

Mark and John,
This is a link to the Capital Area Austin-Healey Club web site. On the home page you will find a link "Now that's Cruising" to a comprehensive article with images that I wrote not long after I installed my cruise control. I am certainly not suggesting that what I did is the only way to go, as I do reference some options that you might want to consider. Hope you find the article helpful.

http://www.capitalhealeys.org/

Lin Rose
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1950 AN5 Bugeye
1964 Jag MKII

 
On Jun 24, 2010, at 6:53 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

> I would be very interested in reading about the answers on this subject if you all would kindly send the
> answers to the list.    This is  one topic that hasn't been over done on the list IMHO.  Some day I
> will be installing cruise on my car.
> 
> Thanks,   Mark
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John O'Brien" <banjojohn at cox.net>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 11:31 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings
> 
> 
>> I know several of you have installed an Audiovox ccs-100 in your Healeys. I
>> just completed the install but it is not working.  When cruising I hit the
>> set button and can sometimes feel it try to take over, but just for a
>> moment.  I'm wondering if I have all the dip switches set right.  I have 1,
>> 3, and 7 on and the rest off.  I see the manual shows a low sensitivity
>> setting for light vehicles with high horsepower.  Should I try this setting?
>> What are the settings others have had success with? Any other thoughts on
>> what might be going on?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks for your help
>> 
>> John O'Brien
>> 
>> '61 bugeye
>> 
>> '65 BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu Jun 24 08:23:01 2010
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 07:23:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hardtop installation
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimoes0y2Lmw-N8ILakGyG6_YqOabWBkrRc0AQTM@mail.gmail.com>
References: <auto-000447705782@donobi.com>
	<AANLkTimoes0y2Lmw-N8ILakGyG6_YqOabWBkrRc0AQTM@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000b01cb13a8$c0ce2540$426a6fc0$@ca>

If you get a hardtop from Nical or Cape, make sure it is
assembled..........it's a brutal job.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Curt/Nancy Arndt
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 5:51 AM
To: Robert D. Hughes
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 hardtop installation

Robert,

Why not check out Nical Engineering.  Very nice replicas of the original
hardtops.

http://www.nicalengineering.co.uk/

Cheers,

Curt

On Wed, Jun 23, 2010 at 11:58 PM, Robert D. Hughes <dhugh at tscnet.com> wrote:

> In the August 2010 issue of "Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car" there is an
> article about the
> convertible top removal and hardtop installation on a BJ8. 10 photos and a
> short article.
> In the article, Smooth Line (www.smoothline.com) is mentioned as
> manufacturing
> reproduction hardtops.  Anybody have one of these hardtops? Quality?
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 24 08:56:55 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 07:56:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Redline 75W90 Gear Oil
In-Reply-To: <57F63F91-A6E1-4FDE-972A-9EE6D8E32600@gmail.com>
References: <57F63F91-A6E1-4FDE-972A-9EE6D8E32600@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <42481148-70A4-4028-903C-27F8DF2B9C23@sbcglobal.net>

We  are using the RedLine 75w90 gear oil in all the rear axles as  
well as the transmissions the DO REQUIRE 75w90 gear oil for many  
years now with no problems.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 23, 2010, at 6:19 PM, Randy Hicks wrote:

> No, not tranny oils again!!!
>
> Being very happy with Redline MTL in the BJ8 transmission, I'm  
> thinking about
> going to the Redline 75W90 Gear Oil in the rear end. (API GL-5 +  
> Hypoid Gear
> Oil)
>
> Anyone using it? Any issues?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 24 09:30:39 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 11:30:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
Message-ID: <SNT143-w3ECBE3D489C7FA42420DED4C60@phx.gbl>

Funny you say that.  My daughter Healey (age 13), helped on the second trip
during the retrieval.  She helped load boxes of parts and even drove the
riding lawn mower that towed the car (with me steering) up into the garage.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"





> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; j.aeckerlin at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: A Marque mag. Article
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 06:47:29 -0400
>
> Or if you have a future 50er still at home why not let them write it up or
> at least take a few pics. Or even
> a wife could help. Think of the anticipation they would have waiting for
> the article to come out in print.
> I think I just gave myself a great idea, now if I can just come up with an
> idea to get a daughter interested
> in this stuff it may spark an interest for her. Maybe a "makeup mirror"
> modification for the car or designer
> interior redo.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> To: <j.aeckerlin at gmail.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 8:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
>
>
> > Thanks all for the e-mails. It appears that the speedo and the oil/ temp
> > gauges are missing- someone along the way thought they were cool. I may
> > just
> > write something up and send it to the Marque (with pics). Thanks again.
> >
> > The Millers
> > "British Car Nuts"
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 09:17:05 +0200
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 The Netherlands
> > From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
> > To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> >
> > Shawn,
> > As you can imagine R.S. Stokvis & Zonen was at the time the official
> > importer
> > for Austin in The Netherlands. As far as I know the AH's for the Dutch
> > market
> > had their steering wheel on the left, a speedo in kilometers (KPH) and an
> > oil
> > pressure/water temp gauge in kilograms per square centimeter/ degrees
> > Celcius.
> > No special pedal arrangement for driving with wooden shoes....
> > Good luck with the restoration!
> > Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> > 1964 BJ8 29432
> >
> >
> > 2010/6/23 S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> >
> > Just picked up today a 1961 AH 3000 BT7 that was in a barn for 23 years as
> > an
> > abandoned restro project. The BMIHT says it was delivered to Stokvis and
> > Zonen, Rotterdam, The Netherlands. Could it have been brought to the USA
> > by
> > a
> > service person? Was this typically the case? Anything really different
> > about
> > a Netherlands car? KMP vs. MPH?



_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 24 09:54:06 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 08:54:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] back-firing BN2
In-Reply-To: <20100623.214058.7599.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20100623.214058.7599.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <33D5C0F1-D4E6-4EA0-85FE-789F22523D26@sbcglobal.net>

Check the amount of fuel you are getting to the carbs.  If you are  
spitting out the carbs you have a lean mixture. Pull the choke out  
and see if the problem goes away. Also check your float levels.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 24, 2010, at 4:40 AM, kaynmike.bham at juno.com wrote:

> A little snapping once in awhile. Then I put the car away Sunday  
> night, go out
> Tuesday afternoon to go get a six pack. (Of Coke, of course.)Hit  
> the button
> and, as ever, it fires right up and idles pretty fine. A little  
> flat spot here
> and there at idle. Oil pressure is great, so I rev it up a bit- 
> we're still in
> the open-doored garage-and it backfires "POW!" I back off for a  
> couple of
> seconds and give it a little kick and "POP, pop Poppity pop POW  
> snap, snap,
> POW!. I drop it back to idle and still quite smooth, save for a  
> tiny hiccup
> every few seconds. I figure lets get it out of the yard and onto the
> residential street in front of my house. I could barely make it up  
> the little
> hill that's part of this little circuit.   Any ideas?    Mike Gougeon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Thu Jun 24 10:43:29 2010
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 09:43:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings
In-Reply-To: <736B2B48-0D51-462A-B4E7-7D94BA4CDE9C@mac.com>
References: <F99AEE1FA5454831B77EDBA35E19C450@authorizf47d14><001701cb138b$7165a5e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<736B2B48-0D51-462A-B4E7-7D94BA4CDE9C@mac.com>
Message-ID: <C2CFD79EB0864F2AB9B56D4B7315EC99@LeonardPCPC>

Linwood's article is exceptional; however, it is based on installing the 
unit on a negative ground car.  If you are still positive ground, then the 
wiring will be different.  Also, there is the option of receiving the 
signals from magnets on the drive shaft or off of the coil.  I am trying to 
install a replacement unit on my car and am having trouble getting it to 
work.  The unit appears to be hooked up properly but the control unit is not 
working.

I, too, would like to see all responses posted to The List.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 6:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cruise control settings


> Mark and John,
> This is a link to the Capital Area Austin-Healey Club web site. On the 
> home page you will find a link "Now that's Cruising" to a comprehensive 
> article with images that I wrote not long after I installed my cruise 
> control. I am certainly not suggesting that what I did is the only way to 
> go, as I do reference some options that you might want to consider. Hope 
> you find the article helpful.
>
> http://www.capitalhealeys.org/
>
> Lin Rose
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1950 AN5 Bugeye
> 1964 Jag MKII
>
>
> On Jun 24, 2010, at 6:53 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote:
>
>> I would be very interested in reading about the answers on this subject 
>> if you all would kindly send the
>> answers to the list.    This is  one topic that hasn't been over done on 
>> the list IMHO.  Some day I
>> will be installing cruise on my car.
>>
>> Thanks,   Mark
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John O'Brien" <banjojohn at cox.net>
>> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 11:31 PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings
>>
>>
>>> I know several of you have installed an Audiovox ccs-100 in your 
>>> Healeys. I
>>> just completed the install but it is not working.  When cruising I hit 
>>> the
>>> set button and can sometimes feel it try to take over, but just for a
>>> moment.  I'm wondering if I have all the dip switches set right.  I have 
>>> 1,
>>> 3, and 7 on and the rest off.  I see the manual shows a low sensitivity
>>> setting for light vehicles with high horsepower.  Should I try this 
>>> setting?
>>> What are the settings others have had success with? Any other thoughts 
>>> on
>>> what might be going on?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for your help
>>>
>>> John O'Brien
>>>
>>> '61 bugeye
>>>
>>> '65 BJ8
>>> _______________________________________________
thehartnetts at earthlink.net 

From timwarduk at aol.com  Thu Jun 24 11:47:24 2010
From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 18:47:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Pictures
Message-ID: <005201cb13c5$5016d5f0$f04481d0$@com>

Hi Healey-philes

Knowing that you all like pics of cars I have updated my site Shutter Magic
(see below) with some new, slightly different, shots of my 3000.

 

Hope you like them! Feedback would be appreciated!

 

Tim

BJ8 '67 

Frogeye '59

 

Tim Ward

Warwick House

12 Mill Road

Kislingbury

NN7 4BB

Tel: 07855 388 751

 

www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk

 

www.ShutterMagic.co.uk

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

From timwarduk at aol.com  Thu Jun 24 11:49:06 2010
From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 18:49:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] back-firing BN2
In-Reply-To: <33D5C0F1-D4E6-4EA0-85FE-789F22523D26@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20100623.214058.7599.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>
	<33D5C0F1-D4E6-4EA0-85FE-789F22523D26@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <005801cb13c5$8cfbd330$a6f37990$@com>

Is your Vacuum pipe properly connected?

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: 24 June 2010 4:54 PM
To: kaynmike.bham at juno.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] back-firing BN2

Check the amount of fuel you are getting to the carbs.  If you are  
spitting out the carbs you have a lean mixture. Pull the choke out  
and see if the problem goes away. Also check your float levels.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 24, 2010, at 4:40 AM, kaynmike.bham at juno.com wrote:

> A little snapping once in awhile. Then I put the car away Sunday  
> night, go out
> Tuesday afternoon to go get a six pack. (Of Coke, of course.)Hit  
> the button
> and, as ever, it fires right up and idles pretty fine. A little  
> flat spot here
> and there at idle. Oil pressure is great, so I rev it up a bit- 
> we're still in
> the open-doored garage-and it backfires "POW!" I back off for a  
> couple of
> seconds and give it a little kick and "POP, pop Poppity pop POW  
> snap, snap,
> POW!. I drop it back to idle and still quite smooth, save for a  
> tiny hiccup
> every few seconds. I figure lets get it out of the yard and onto the
> residential street in front of my house. I could barely make it up  
> the little
> hill that's part of this little circuit.   Any ideas?    Mike Gougeon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/timwarduk at aol.com

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Thu Jun 24 11:49:37 2010
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:49:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] back-firing BN2
In-Reply-To: <20100623.214058.7599.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20100623.214058.7599.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8CCE1DCBF5E16F8-DA4-162A@webmail-d086.sysops.aol.com>

Mike,  Could be a bad condenser in you distributor if you still have the
conventional point and condenser ignition setup.  I had the same problem once.
I had just shut the engine off after coming home and a while later started the
engine and it wouldn't go above idle without stumbling and backfiring.  Worth
a try.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jun 24, 2010 12:40 am
Subject: [Healeys] back-firing BN2


A little snapping once in awhile. Then I put the car away Sunday night, go
out
uesday afternoon to go get a six pack. (Of Coke, of course.)Hit the button
nd, as ever, it fires right up and idles pretty fine. A little flat spot here
nd there at idle. Oil pressure is great, so I rev it up a bit-we're still in
he open-doored garage-and it backfires "POW!" I back off for a couple of
econds and give it a little kick and "POP, pop Poppity pop POW snap, snap,
OW!. I drop it back to idle and still quite smooth, save for a tiny hiccup
very few seconds. I figure lets get it out of the yard and onto the
esidential street in front of my house. I could barely make it up the little
ill that's part of this little circuit.   Any ideas?    Mike Gougeon
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Thu Jun 24 13:31:48 2010
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 21:31:48 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Difference between diaphragm clutch and earlier 3 spring
	type?
Message-ID: <70B5950BE48941B4AD6EC3749BEB03F4@tm>

Hello,

What's the difference between the diaphragm clutch and earlier 3 spring type
in terms of comfort, performance, ease of operation, etc?

Best, tadek

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jun 24 14:46:38 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 22:46:38 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: 1973 Jensen Healey hood]
In-Reply-To: <4C2280A2.2030008@earthlink.net>
References: <4C2280A2.2030008@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4C23C42E.5050405@chello.nl>

The steel bonnet/hood for a Jensen Healey is No Longer Available new for 
a long time. You can find good second hand ones but they tend to be very 
pricy, asking prices over $1000 is not unheard of. Your best bet would 
be a USA source as most JH's ended up there, about 90% of 10.000 cars I 
believe.
Kees Oudesluijs,
NL


Bob Haskell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Can anyone help Darren?  If so, please contact him directly.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> As you can tell I work for an insurance company.  We currently have a
> claim involving a 1973 Jensen Healey and the hood is severely damaged
> and needs replaced.  I have been able to locate a fiberglass one from
> DELTA MOTORSPORTS out of Phoenix AZ but that is not what is on the
> vehicle and the owner does not want a fiberglass one.  I friend of mine
> suggested I look to the British Car Union for possible leads which lead
> me to you.  Do you have any connections that could produce a hood to be
> delivered to the state of Oregon?
>
> Thank You for your time.
>
> Darren  R.  Rhodes
> Cotton States Insurance
> Material Damage Claims Consultant
> 3120 Stonecrest Blvd.  Suite 145
> Lithonia   Georgia 30038
> telephone ( 678)323-7210
> cell: ( 404 ) 574-0677
> fax: ( 866 ) 671-7080

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu Jun 24 15:38:36 2010
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 14:38:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Part needed
Message-ID: <008001cb13e5$9a8706d0$cf951470$@ca>

I'm looking for a used spinner (2 or 3 ear).   Condition not important.

 

Anybody have one to sell?

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 24 15:52:58 2010
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 14:52:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: 1973 Jensen Healey hood]
In-Reply-To: <4C23C42E.5050405@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <352404.6857.qm@web36704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

try this shop at:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/1804216950.html

NFI, just came accross this recently.

Bert


--- On Thu, 6/24/10, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Fwd: 1973 Jensen Healey hood]
> To: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>, darren.rhodes at countryfinancial.com
> Date: Thursday, June 24, 2010, 10:46 PM
> The steel bonnet/hood for a Jensen
> Healey is No Longer Available new for 
> a long time. You can find good second hand ones but they
> tend to be very 
> pricy, asking prices over $1000 is not unheard of. Your
> best bet would 
> be a USA source as most JH's ended up there, about 90% of
> 10.000 cars I 
> believe.
> Kees Oudesluijs,
> NL
> 
> 
> Bob Haskell wrote:
> > Listers,
> >
> > Can anyone help Darren?  If so, please contact
> him directly.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> > As you can tell I work for an insurance company. 
> We currently have a
> > claim involving a 1973 Jensen Healey and the hood is
> severely damaged
> > and needs replaced.  I have been able to locate a
> fiberglass one from
> > DELTA MOTORSPORTS out of Phoenix AZ but that is not
> what is on the
> > vehicle and the owner does not want a fiberglass
> one.  I friend of mine
> > suggested I look to the British Car Union for possible
> leads which lead
> > me to you.  Do you have any connections that
> could produce a hood to be
> > delivered to the state of Oregon?
> >
> > Thank You for your time.
> >
> > Darren  R.  Rhodes
> > Cotton States Insurance
> > Material Damage Claims Consultant
> > 3120 Stonecrest Blvd.  Suite 145
> > Lithonia   Georgia 30038
> > telephone ( 678)323-7210
> > cell: ( 404 ) 574-0677
> > fax: ( 866 ) 671-7080
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Jun 24 17:21:03 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 19:21:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Part needed
In-Reply-To: <008001cb13e5$9a8706d0$cf951470$@ca>
References: <008001cb13e5$9a8706d0$cf951470$@ca>
Message-ID: <BC8BB1B43C79424AAFFFA8450EED05BE@LIFEBOOK>

Left or Right?
12 T.P.I. or 8 T.P.I.

Inquiring minds need to know!

Rich


--------------------------------------------------
From: "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 5:38 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Part needed

> I'm looking for a used spinner (2 or 3 ear).   Condition not important.
>
>
>
> Anybody have one to sell?
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Jun 24 17:56:53 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 16:56:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Difference between diaphragm clutch and earlier 3
 spring type?
In-Reply-To: <70B5950BE48941B4AD6EC3749BEB03F4@tm>
References: <70B5950BE48941B4AD6EC3749BEB03F4@tm>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinvNlbute1iRDIUC8_oGPvTp2rCliJt8n9Ql47b@mail.gmail.com>

the late model clutch is softer and easier to engage. I will be upgrading
during my resto project.

On Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 12:31 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <
tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> What's the difference between the diaphragm clutch and earlier 3 spring
> type
> in terms of comfort, performance, ease of operation, etc?
>
> Best, tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jun 24 21:45:34 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 11:45:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Difference between diaphragm clutch and earlier 3
 spring type?
In-Reply-To: <70B5950BE48941B4AD6EC3749BEB03F4@tm>
References: <70B5950BE48941B4AD6EC3749BEB03F4@tm>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilSDKKKGXXzS3jh_qrrFds_3R7-kDmscuIbYKxh@mail.gmail.com>

Tadek -

The diaphragm clutch is superior in almost all respects.  It is much lighter
on the pedal and makes driving a pleasure.  Technically speaking it is
superior as well - it evens out the load on the pressure plate, extending
the life of the clutch, reducing heat cracking on the flywheel, and
generally can take more load than a spring clutch.  It will also shudder
much less with time as the clutch wears.

The downsides are few, the diaphragm clutch is slightly more prone to lose
the cover's bearing mate-surface donut, on the spring clutch they really
can't come loose but on the diaphragm clutch this metal donut can come loose
from the diaphragm springs if not assembled properly at the factory.  That's
probably the only downside of the diaphragm clutch.  I'd say the chance of
this type of failure is very low.

I changed the clutch on my BJ8 about 70K miles ago, and it is only now
slipping after very heavy driving through San Francisco and Hong Kong hills.
 It probably would have lasted 100K miles anywhere else.  In a BN2 it'll
last even longer.

Alan



On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 3:31 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <
tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> What's the difference between the diaphragm clutch and earlier 3 spring
> type
> in terms of comfort, performance, ease of operation, etc?
>
> Best, tadek
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Fri Jun 25 02:33:49 2010
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 18:33:49 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 misfire
Message-ID: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>

G'day list

Today I spent 6 hours trying to get a friend's BN1 to run properly. He's had
persistent problems with the car misfiring under load. He hasn't had the car
long and doesn't know a great deal of its history, except that it has
apparently been used as a race car and was at one time supercharged. I went
through everything today - valve clearances, compression test, points, dwell
angle, carbs etc. We found that, apparently, it has a non-standard cam as the
lift for the exhaust valves seems considerably higher than that for the inlets
(looking at the compression of the valve springs, the exhausts appear to
compress around 1/2" more on opening than the inlets) We set the exhausts at
18 thou, the inlets at 12. This appeared to improve things with the car
stationary, but under load it still misfired and backfired. We changed out the
condenser, the distributor cap and leads. The coil is new. Points seemed OK &
dwell angle 60 deg. I was unable to check the valve timing as there's no mark
on the pulley and we didn't have time to establish TDC. Carb tune is OK and
the plugs looked right. The car has 1 3/4" HS6 SUs. The vacuum advance is
working. The only thing that didn't look right was the compressions, which
were between 105 and 125 psi (another car I did this week had 165 - 175). We
wondered if the cr had been reduced when the car was blown. The car doesn't
blow oil smoke nor does there apppear to be excessive crankcase pressure.

Bottom line - after all this attention the car would rev cleanly when
stationary, but on the road under load would misfire and backfire to the
extent that it was virtually undriveable.

Any suggestions listers?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Jun 25 05:48:21 2010
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 06:48:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 misfire
In-Reply-To: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
References: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <D5F7C526DA6C4AE9903D3B436458F0B3@GregPC>

Check or (easier if you have a spare) simply replace the condensor, I have 
seen them malfunction and give a weak spark exhibit similar symptoms.  May 
or may not be it, but worth a try.

Greg Lemon

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Fri Jun 25 05:56:05 2010
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 07:56:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 misfire
In-Reply-To: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
References: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinIo5hCYNLSYig5Fehg9EIt1nES7W35ZbzMZHKu@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Peter, What you are describing sounds very like a problem I had with an
MGB.
When you mention that the exhaust valves open much further than the
inlets I think you should check the actual lift of the inlet lobes. On
the MGB 3 of the inlet and one of the exhaust lobes was worn so badly
that the valves were barely lifting off their seats.
If the cam has worn that badly the engine will have to be disassembled
and thoroughly cleaned out because those flakes of hardened steel from
the cam and lifters will wreak havoc throughout the entire engine..
Don't ask me how I know!!!

Michael Salter

On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 4:33 AM, Peter Linn <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote:
> G'day list
>
> Today I spent 6 hours trying to get a friend's BN1 to run properly. He's
had
> persistent problems with the car misfiring under load. He hasn't had the
car
> long and doesn't know a great deal of its history, except that it has
> apparently been used as a race car and was at one time supercharged. I went
> through everything today - valve clearances, compression test, points,
dwell
> angle, carbs etc. We found that, apparently, it has a non-standard cam as
the
> lift for the exhaust valves seems considerably higher than that for the
inlets
> (looking at the compression of the valve springs, the exhausts appear to
> compress around 1/2" more on opening than the inlets) We set the exhausts
at
> 18 thou, the inlets at 12. This appeared to improve things with the car
> stationary, but under load it still misfired and backfired. We changed out
the
> condenser, the distributor cap and leads. The coil is new. Points seemed OK
&
> dwell angle 60 deg. I was unable to check the valve timing as there's no
mark
> on the pulley and we didn't have time to establish TDC. Carb tune is OK and
> the plugs looked right. The car has 1 3/4" HS6 SUs. The vacuum advance is
> working. The only thing that didn't look right was the compressions, which
> were between 105 and 125 psi (another car I did this week had 165 - 175).
We
> wondered if the cr had been reduced when the car was blown. The car doesn't
> blow oil smoke nor does there apppear to be excessive crankcase pressure.
>
> Bottom line - after all this attention the car would rev cleanly when
> stationary, but on the road under load would misfire and backfire to the
> extent that it was virtually undriveable.
>
> Any suggestions listers?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 Holden V6
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 25 09:01:22 2010
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 08:01:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Part needed
In-Reply-To: <008001cb13e5$9a8706d0$cf951470$@ca>
References: <008001cb13e5$9a8706d0$cf951470$@ca>
Message-ID: <36A922D2-F6C6-4033-A1D6-2834E19F0B46@sbcglobal.net>

We have some used knock off is various conditions. Do you need coarse  
or fine thread, left or right



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jun 24, 2010, at 2:38 PM, PG wrote:

> I'm looking for a used spinner (2 or 3 ear).   Condition not  
> important.
>
>
>
> Anybody have one to sell?
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Fri Jun 25 09:22:59 2010
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 08:22:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 misfire
In-Reply-To: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
References: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <004601cb147a$4bc37f20$e34a7d60$@ca>

If it was supercharged and running under higher compression, the timing
would likely have been advanced more than normal..  At low compression a
flame front spreads faster than under high compression.    Did you take the
car to 3000rpm and play with the distributor advance?

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Linn
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 1:34 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 misfire

G'day list

Today I spent 6 hours trying to get a friend's BN1 to run properly. He's had
persistent problems with the car misfiring under load. He hasn't had the car
long and doesn't know a great deal of its history, except that it has
apparently been used as a race car and was at one time supercharged. I went
through everything today - valve clearances, compression test, points, dwell
angle, carbs etc. We found that, apparently, it has a non-standard cam as
the
lift for the exhaust valves seems considerably higher than that for the
inlets
(looking at the compression of the valve springs, the exhausts appear to
compress around 1/2" more on opening than the inlets) We set the exhausts at
18 thou, the inlets at 12. This appeared to improve things with the car
stationary, but under load it still misfired and backfired. We changed out
the
condenser, the distributor cap and leads. The coil is new. Points seemed OK
&
dwell angle 60 deg. I was unable to check the valve timing as there's no
mark
on the pulley and we didn't have time to establish TDC. Carb tune is OK and
the plugs looked right. The car has 1 3/4" HS6 SUs. The vacuum advance is
working. The only thing that didn't look right was the compressions, which
were between 105 and 125 psi (another car I did this week had 165 - 175). We
wondered if the cr had been reduced when the car was blown. The car doesn't
blow oil smoke nor does there apppear to be excessive crankcase pressure.

Bottom line - after all this attention the car would rev cleanly when
stationary, but on the road under load would misfire and backfire to the
extent that it was virtually undriveable.

Any suggestions listers?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Fri Jun 25 10:03:10 2010
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 09:03:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: 1973 Jensen Healey hood]
In-Reply-To: <4C2280A2.2030008@earthlink.net>
References: <4C2280A2.2030008@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikNZWI_BoT_Yx-Lrq2DESVG5IxxwbzYoe4cHpgC@mail.gmail.com>

It just dawned on me that this came across the Healey list and not the
Jensen list. I shall forward it.

Jody

On Wed, Jun 23, 2010 at 2:46 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Can anyone help Darren?  If so, please contact him directly.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> As you can tell I work for an insurance company.  We currently have a
> claim involving a 1973 Jensen Healey and the hood is severely damaged
> and needs replaced.  I have been able to locate a fiberglass one from
> DELTA MOTORSPORTS out of Phoenix AZ but that is not what is on the
> vehicle and the owner does not want a fiberglass one.  I friend of mine
> suggested I look to the British Car Union for possible leads which lead
> me to you.  Do you have any connections that could produce a hood to be
> delivered to the state of Oregon?
>
> Thank You for your time.
>
> Darren  R.  Rhodes
> Cotton States Insurance
> Material Damage Claims Consultant
> 3120 Stonecrest Blvd.  Suite 145
> Lithonia   Georgia 30038
> telephone ( 678)323-7210
> cell: ( 404 ) 574-0677
> fax: ( 866 ) 671-7080
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Fri Jun 25 12:15:34 2010
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 20:15:34 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 misfire
In-Reply-To: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
References: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011AC015A8E9@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com>

Peter,
Check the valve timing. When your cam is delayed, you will also have a low
compression reading.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Peter Linn
Gesendet: Freitag, 25. Juni 2010 10:34
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] BN1 misfire

G'day list

Today I spent 6 hours trying to get a friend's BN1 to run properly. He's had
persistent problems with the car misfiring under load. He hasn't had the car
long and doesn't know a great deal of its history, except that it has
apparently been used as a race car and was at one time supercharged. I went
through everything today - valve clearances, compression test, points, dwell
angle, carbs etc. We found that, apparently, it has a non-standard cam as the
lift for the exhaust valves seems considerably higher than that for the inlets
(looking at the compression of the valve springs, the exhausts appear to
compress around 1/2" more on opening than the inlets) We set the exhausts at
18 thou, the inlets at 12. This appeared to improve things with the car
stationary, but under load it still misfired and backfired. We changed out the
condenser, the distributor cap and leads. The coil is new. Points seemed OK &
dwell angle 60 deg. I was unable to check the valve timing as there's no mark
on the pulley and we didn't have time to establish TDC. Carb tune is OK and
the plugs looked right. The car has 1 3/4" HS6 SUs. The vacuum advance is
working. The only thing that didn't look right was the compressions, which
were between 105 and 125 psi (another car I did this week had 165 - 175). We
wondered if the cr had been reduced when the car was blown. The car doesn't
blow oil smoke nor does there apppear to be excessive crankcase pressure.

Bottom line - after all this attention the car would rev cleanly when
stationary, but on the road under load would misfire and backfire to the
extent that it was virtually undriveable.

Any suggestions listers?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe

From kipannette at hotmail.com  Fri Jun 25 13:14:09 2010
From: kipannette at hotmail.com (annette Williams)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:14:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rendevous via Redding, CA
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W522CDBD291F5E414B72245A4DF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W522CDBD291F5E414B72245A4DF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL110-W35949BB29DE8D2BA02F7D7DCC70@phx.gbl>

Hi Rich,

We're not going to be able to go this year, but you should try to walk the
Sundial Bridge, Sunday evening.  If you are heading up I-5, you will be going
over Shasta Lake, which is as full as it has been in a few years, by Castle
Crags, a nice state park, and Dunsmuir, a cute little town with a couple of
good restaurants.  You will also see Mt. Shasta, still with lots of snow, on
the way north to Weed and Yreka.

Enjoy,

Kip Williams


> Anyone heading to Eugen, OR for the Rendevous via Redding, CA? We will be
> staying at the Fairfield Inn Sunday the 27th. Anything (fun) to see on the
way
> up from Redding? We are heading up from South Lake Tahoe via Sacramento on
> Sunday morning and would be happy to join up with anyone along the way.
> Rich Kahn


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jun 25 17:04:50 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 07:04:50 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 misfire
In-Reply-To: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
References: <CC8D3855AD8B426ABE7CB729BFF478D4@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimNW3MQPl2NmJMVDYpct6go3hReMfw9w5sFQOGX@mail.gmail.com>

Peter -

Usually with supercharging you want to bring the compression down to
around 7:1 or possibly even less.  This explains your low CR readings.

It shouldn't cause misfire but the car would have no power.

Have you tried using the lowest octane gas you can find?

Motor needs to come out and be gone through...

Alan

On 6/25/10, Peter Linn <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote:
> G'day list
>
> Today I spent 6 hours trying to get a friend's BN1 to run properly. He's had
> persistent problems with the car misfiring under load. He hasn't had the car
> long and doesn't know a great deal of its history, except that it has
> apparently been used as a race car and was at one time supercharged. I went
> through everything today - valve clearances, compression test, points, dwell
> angle, carbs etc. We found that, apparently, it has a non-standard cam as
> the
> lift for the exhaust valves seems considerably higher than that for the
> inlets
> (looking at the compression of the valve springs, the exhausts appear to
> compress around 1/2" more on opening than the inlets) We set the exhausts at
> 18 thou, the inlets at 12. This appeared to improve things with the car
> stationary, but under load it still misfired and backfired. We changed out
> the
> condenser, the distributor cap and leads. The coil is new. Points seemed OK
> &
> dwell angle 60 deg. I was unable to check the valve timing as there's no
> mark
> on the pulley and we didn't have time to establish TDC. Carb tune is OK and
> the plugs looked right. The car has 1 3/4" HS6 SUs. The vacuum advance is
> working. The only thing that didn't look right was the compressions, which
> were between 105 and 125 psi (another car I did this week had 165 - 175). We
> wondered if the cr had been reduced when the car was blown. The car doesn't
> blow oil smoke nor does there apppear to be excessive crankcase pressure.
>
> Bottom line - after all this attention the car would rev cleanly when
> stationary, but on the road under load would misfire and backfire to the
> extent that it was virtually undriveable.
>
> Any suggestions listers?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 Holden V6
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Jun 25 21:27:46 2010
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 03:27:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?bacfiring_bn2?=
Message-ID: <20100626032746.30141.qmail@server278.com>

whenever my bj8 starts to exhibit the same symtoms i immedietely change the fuel filter. backfiring almost always comes from a lean mixture.  my healey would run fine in the stall and going down the hill, but would start backfiring and stuttering when i  was pulling the hill and had the throttle open.  i did not see where you had checked the filter, so it might rate a check.   hjim

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 26 07:28:08 2010
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 09:28:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Test,  No Listings
Message-ID: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Did everyone go on vacation or just not have anything to say?

Nothing for Friday at all.

Mark

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jun 26 08:06:05 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 10:06:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Test,  No Listings
In-Reply-To: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <3A2633367F3E4C168B4D717BD67B693F@LIFEBOOK>

I guess they're all either out enjoying their cars, attending the west coast 
Rendezvous, or getting ready for Conclave in 2 weeks.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 9:28 AM
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Healeys] Test,  No Listings

> Did everyone go on vacation or just not have anything to say?
>
> Nothing for Friday at all.
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Sat Jun 26 08:22:47 2010
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 10:22:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] La Parade at the Grand Prix in Canada
In-Reply-To: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <662CA798-5748-4708-AEB9-7734F9420A85@cgocable.ca>

Then to watch this saturday morning :




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GaH5ovJlVY&feature=email

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4Jz3XHuPhk&feature=related


Gilbert



Le 10-06-26 ` 09:28, Mark LaPierre a icrit :

> Did everyone go on vacation or just not have anything to say?
>
> Nothing for Friday at all.
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca

From edriver at sasktel.net  Sat Jun 26 09:07:29 2010
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 09:07:29 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] La Parade at the Grand Prix in Canada
In-Reply-To: <662CA798-5748-4708-AEB9-7734F9420A85@cgocable.ca>
References: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<662CA798-5748-4708-AEB9-7734F9420A85@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <4C2617B1.8020009@sasktel.net>

Hi Gilbert

Super video may thanks for posting it!!!!

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Historian, AHCUSA

gilbert gauthier wrote:
> Then to watch this saturday morning :
>
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GaH5ovJlVY&feature=email
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4Jz3XHuPhk&feature=related
>
>
> Gilbert
>
>
>
> Le 10-06-26 ` 09:28, Mark LaPierre a icrit :

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Sat Jun 26 09:14:42 2010
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 10:14:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] La Parade at the Grand Prix in Canada
In-Reply-To: <662CA798-5748-4708-AEB9-7734F9420A85@cgocable.ca>
References: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<662CA798-5748-4708-AEB9-7734F9420A85@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikEf1fSMOOtM2leQNORN2e4T0JnDB47EWggBcD7@mail.gmail.com>

impressive display of Healeys.  i counted 27!!
jw

On Sat, Jun 26, 2010 at 9:22 AM, gilbert gauthier <comkanuk at cgocable.ca>wrote:

> Then to watch this saturday morning :
>
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GaH5ovJlVY&feature=email
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4Jz3XHuPhk&feature=related
>
>
> Gilbert
>
>
>
> Le 10-06-26 ` 09:28, Mark LaPierre a icrit :
>
>  Did everyone go on vacation or just not have anything to say?
>>
>> Nothing for Friday at all.
>>
>> Mark
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From 57healey at gmail.com  Sat Jun 26 11:32:11 2010
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 12:32:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BEWARE!!!! Crooked Lime Rock garage owner moves west
	to CA.
In-Reply-To: <030201c7a9e7$9fc31410$b835480c@kirkgrbymz8g9u>
References: <030201c7a9e7$9fc31410$b835480c@kirkgrbymz8g9u>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik72xpzSsC0-NB3hrAiPFa_PsXtsbrrsAH2H2Mp@mail.gmail.com>

To pull up an old thread, an update

http://www.courant.com/business/hc-blumenthal-restitution-vintage-car20100625
,0,3750626.story


On Fri, Jun 8, 2007 at 11:11 AM, 62bt7 <62bt7 at prodigy.net> wrote:
> It appears the list stripped the story from my original email,
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> HEADS UP to all Healey Owners (listers) on West Coast.
>
> As in the attached story,
>
>   (THE CROOK)
>
> Mr. ARTHUR GLEN KURRUS is residing in Healdsburg California since January
> 2007
>
>
http://www.zwire.com:80/site/news.cfm?newsid=18442549&BRD=2303&PAG=461&dept_i
d=478976&rfi=6Kirk
> Kvam62BT759BN7 #405 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford)
>

--
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." -
http://Austin-Healeys.com
1988 Saab 900 SIS - http://picasaweb.google.com/57Healey/SISVisitUnclean

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Sat Jun 26 12:59:01 2010
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 13:59:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Is a Puzzlement!
Message-ID: <AANLkTikKu_Kz-NWnp28FAQne5DlAaLaGl6OgCLVBg-5f@mail.gmail.com>

I like *Sports and Exotic Cars* but the WORKSHOP feature sometimes leaves me
puzzled. This month's project is even more confusing.
(BTW, I have a BT7 with what I think is a factory hardtop). Please answer
the following:
      1. Do you really have to take the whole thing apart to use the
hardtop?
      2. Is the hardtop for the BT7&8 different than the one for my BT7?
      3. They show what they call "windshield header bolts", Is that a bad
restoration, or are the older tops just that much more          elegant. I
can understand that the front of the hood has to fasten differently than an
"erect the hood"  set up I have, but the 7&8 are
           so nicely appointed, that I have trouble thinking the front of
the hood is done that way when I have a nice hook and latch.
     4. With not one, but two books of Healey people and resources, why take
a Healey to a Jaguar shop?

Whoever said that tops are only for racing and serious rallying never
survived a Chicago winter in a rag top. My combination when my Healey was a
daily driver was Bugeye with hard top. It was so snug I had to get an
aftermarket rheostat to turn down the fan because it's one speed  kept ihe
cabin too hot!

The other WORKSHOP article that puzzled me was the method of powering your
lights from the battery through relays. It was absolutely correct, but when
you were done you had something like Victoria British 10-679 (29.95 regular,
19.95 every year in their sale catalog). The plug set up makes installation
easier than the article. All disclaimers apply to this VB information.

??Jack

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 26 13:25:04 2010
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 15:25:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Is a Puzzlement!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikKu_Kz-NWnp28FAQne5DlAaLaGl6OgCLVBg-5f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikKu_Kz-NWnp28FAQne5DlAaLaGl6OgCLVBg-5f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C265410.8020900@earthlink.net>

Jack,

Yes, the BJ7/8 hardtop is different from the BT7 hardtop.

Bob

Jack Feldman wrote:
> I like *Sports and Exotic Cars* but the WORKSHOP feature sometimes leaves me
> puzzled. This month's project is even more confusing.
> (BTW, I have a BT7 with what I think is a factory hardtop). Please answer
> the following:
>       1. Do you really have to take the whole thing apart to use the
> hardtop?
>       2. Is the hardtop for the BT7&8 different than the one for my BT7?
>       3. They show what they call "windshield header bolts", Is that a bad
> restoration, or are the older tops just that much more          elegant. I
> can understand that the front of the hood has to fasten differently than an
> "erect the hood"  set up I have, but the 7&8 are
>            so nicely appointed, that I have trouble thinking the front of
> the hood is done that way when I have a nice hook and latch.
>      4. With not one, but two books of Healey people and resources, why take
> a Healey to a Jaguar shop?
> 
> Whoever said that tops are only for racing and serious rallying never
> survived a Chicago winter in a rag top. My combination when my Healey was a
> daily driver was Bugeye with hard top. It was so snug I had to get an
> aftermarket rheostat to turn down the fan because it's one speed  kept ihe
> cabin too hot!
> 
> The other WORKSHOP article that puzzled me was the method of powering your
> lights from the battery through relays. It was absolutely correct, but when
> you were done you had something like Victoria British 10-679 (29.95 regular,
> 19.95 every year in their sale catalog). The plug set up makes installation
> easier than the article. All disclaimers apply to this VB information.
> 
> ??Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Jun 26 14:07:41 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 15:07:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Is a Puzzlement!
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikKu_Kz-NWnp28FAQne5DlAaLaGl6OgCLVBg-5f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikKu_Kz-NWnp28FAQne5DlAaLaGl6OgCLVBg-5f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C265E0D.6060108@justbrits.com>

1st Jack, PLEASE tell us....

<< 2. Is the hardtop for the BT7&8 different than the one for my BT7? >>

WHAT is and/or WHERE are pics/info of a BT-8 ????

Enquiring minds NEED to know !?!?!?!?

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Jun 26 14:33:38 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 16:33:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] La Parade at the Grand Prix in Canada
In-Reply-To: <662CA798-5748-4708-AEB9-7734F9420A85@cgocable.ca>
References: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<662CA798-5748-4708-AEB9-7734F9420A85@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <00e801cb156e$dc708aa0$95519fe0$@verizon.net>

Can be seen on the Videos page on my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of gilbert gauthier
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 10:23 AM
To: Mark LaPierre
Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] La Parade at the Grand Prix in Canada

Then to watch this saturday morning :




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GaH5ovJlVY&feature=email

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4Jz3XHuPhk&feature=related


Gilbert



Le 10-06-26 ` 09:28, Mark LaPierre a icrit :

> Did everyone go on vacation or just not have anything to say?
>
> Nothing for Friday at all.
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 26 15:13:26 2010
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 14:13:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Test,  No Listings
In-Reply-To: <3A2633367F3E4C168B4D717BD67B693F@LIFEBOOK>
References: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<3A2633367F3E4C168B4D717BD67B693F@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <F3EC3152B7904E21BDF6EB4D6AE39B9F@LeonardPCPC>

Mark:  I had about nine List e-mails yesterday - most about 
backfire/misfire.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 7:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Test, No Listings


>I guess they're all either out enjoying their cars, attending the west 
>coast Rendezvous, or getting ready for Conclave in 2 weeks.
>
> Rich
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 9:28 AM
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Test,  No Listings
>
>> Did everyone go on vacation or just not have anything to say?
>>
>> Nothing for Friday at all.
>>
>> Mark
>> _______________________________________________

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 26 15:15:55 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 14:15:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil
Message-ID: <4C266E0B.5000305@comcast.net>

Hey, it's a slow List day.  Plus, I don't think anyone has asked this one:

Does motor oil have a shelf life?  If so, does synthetic have a longer 
shelf life (or shorter)?

Inquiring minds ...


bs

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sat Jun 26 15:29:39 2010
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 14:29:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor drive seal removal
Message-ID: <000601cb1576$afa76ae0$0ef640a0$@com>

How is the seal removed from the distributor drive housing just below the
distributor mounting clamp?

 

This is Moss PN 520-280, item # 125 on the "Internal Engine 100-6, 3000"
page.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Jun 26 15:35:15 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 23:35:15 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil
In-Reply-To: <4C266E0B.5000305@comcast.net>
References: <4C266E0B.5000305@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C267293.6060600@chello.nl>

Unless the can has been opened I do not think there is any problem. 
However, if the can once has been opened air will come in and react with 
the oil in the (very) long run. I have used engine oil of well over 10 
years old in the Landrover without ill effects.
It will need a good shake as some mixed in substances do sink to the 
bottom of the can.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Bob Spidell wrote:
> Hey, it's a slow List day.  Plus, I don't think anyone has asked this 
> one:
>
> Does motor oil have a shelf life?  If so, does synthetic have a longer 
> shelf life (or shorter)?
>
> Inquiring minds ...
>
>
> bs
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.830 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2963 - datum van uitgifte: 06/25/10 20:35:00

From robertlarson at att.net  Sat Jun 26 16:04:59 2010
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 18:04:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Test,  No Listings
In-Reply-To: <F3EC3152B7904E21BDF6EB4D6AE39B9F@LeonardPCPC>
References: <000601cb1533$6ac5e2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<3A2633367F3E4C168B4D717BD67B693F@LIFEBOOK>
	<F3EC3152B7904E21BDF6EB4D6AE39B9F@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <4C26798A.8060800@att.net>

Interesting....

I'm also in the no postings group.  Did not get the backfire/missing ones.

Lots of weird things going on since AT&T got tangled up with Yahoo.  Maybe
another reason to consider abandoning AT&T.

Bob

On 6/26/2010 5:13 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote:
> Mark:  I had about nine List e-mails yesterday - most about 
> backfire/misfire.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 7:06 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Test, No Listings
>
>
>> I guess they're all either out enjoying their cars, attending the 
>> west coast Rendezvous, or getting ready for Conclave in 2 weeks.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 9:28 AM
>> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Test,  No Listings
>>
>>> Did everyone go on vacation or just not have anything to say?
>>>
>>> Nothing for Friday at all.
>>>
>>> Mark
>>> _______________________________________________

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 26 16:58:21 2010
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 15:58:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BEWARE!!!! Crooked Lime Rock garage owner moves west
 to CA.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik72xpzSsC0-NB3hrAiPFa_PsXtsbrrsAH2H2Mp@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <560987.42214.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Patton,

Before Ed gives you grief, here's the tiny.url: http://tinyurl.com/27gcp59

I went to an open house at the Paradise Garage during a Lime Rock Vintage
weekend with a number of other AHCA New England Region members.  Suffice it to
say there were a number of eyebrows raised whilst comparing claimed mileage on
a Ferrari to driver's seat condition.  I'm sure there will be a lot of eyes on
sentencing for the criminal case.


Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 6/26/10, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BEWARE!!!! Crooked Lime Rock garage owner moves west to
CA.
To: "62bt7" <62bt7 at prodigy.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, June 26, 2010, 1:32 PM

To pull up an old thread, an update

http://www.courant.com/business/hc-blumenthal-restitution-vintage-car20100625
,0,3750626.story


On Fri, Jun 8, 2007 at 11:11 AM, 62bt7 <62bt7 at prodigy.net> wrote:
> It appears the list stripped the story from my original email,
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> HEADS UP to all Healey Owners (listers) on West Coast.
>
> As in the attached story,
>
>   (THE CROOK)
>
> Mr. ARTHUR GLEN KURRUS is residing in Healdsburg California since January
> 2007
>
>
http://www.zwire.com:80/site/news.cfm?newsid=18442549&BRD=2303&PAG=461&dept_i
d=478976&rfi=6Kirk
> Kvam62BT759BN7 #405 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford)
>

--
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." -
http://Austin-Healeys.com
1988 Saab 900 SIS - http://picasaweb.google.com/57Healey/SISVisitUnclean
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 26 17:17:36 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 16:17:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil
In-Reply-To: <4C267293.6060600@chello.nl>
References: <4C266E0B.5000305@comcast.net> <4C267293.6060600@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4C268A90.7050501@comcast.net>

It occurred to me to use The Google on this ...

According to several articles I read, if properly stored--between 
45-80degF and dry--the recommended maximum shelf life is 5 yrs. (that's 
a manufacturers' recommendation, so you can probably get away with 
longer).   Like Kees mentioned, some additives can settle out so it's a 
good idea to shake the bottle if it's been sitting too long.

I asked because I stocked up on 20W-50 before they took all the good 
stuff out.


bs


Oudesluys wrote:
> Unless the can has been opened I do not think there is any problem. 
> However, if the can once has been opened air will come in and react 
> with the oil in the (very) long run. I have used engine oil of well 
> over 10 years old in the Landrover without ill effects.
> It will need a good shake as some mixed in substances do sink to the 
> bottom of the can.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Hey, it's a slow List day.  Plus, I don't think anyone has asked this 
>> one:
>>
>> Does motor oil have a shelf life?  If so, does synthetic have a 
>> longer shelf life (or shorter)?
>>
>> Inquiring minds ...
>>
>>
>> bs
>>
>>
>>   
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Jun 26 18:00:41 2010
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 10:00:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
Message-ID: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

A frund (he is in NZ) has a cache of generators and is wanting to work our
which one is which.

 

Does anyone has a list of Lucas generator numbers and what model
Austin-Healey they belong to?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 26 18:51:17 2010
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 20:51:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
In-Reply-To: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w14CE50C1004026A5D4D38EC5C90@phx.gbl>

Patrick - my 1976 A-H catalog from Sports Car Spares states

100-4 to CE 223155  - gen - 22456

then                                 22483

100-six         57 - 59           22483

3000 MKI      59 - 62           22530

3000 MKII     62 - 64           22530

3000 MK III   64 - on           22900




I hope that helps - jim lesher










> From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 10:00:41 +1000
> Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> A frund (he is in NZ) has a cache of generators and is wanting to work our
> which one is which.
>
>
>
> Does anyone has a list of Lucas generator numbers and what model
> Austin-Healey they belong to?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
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6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Jun 26 19:29:54 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 09:29:54 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil
In-Reply-To: <4C268A90.7050501@comcast.net>
References: <4C266E0B.5000305@comcast.net> <4C267293.6060600@chello.nl>
	<4C268A90.7050501@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinqB-IHt8_qIdj-ICO2eVWiyb_E52mcfJg7H1yr@mail.gmail.com>

Well - call me an idiot but I put several quarts of 10 year old Castrol
20-50, which was improperly stored, in my Mk IX.  I figured if there was any
mold or bacteria in there the heat would kill it and the filter would get
it.  so far no probs with the Mk IX... but the oil definitely runs a little
dirty.  I had to stir it up, and the oil was cloudy after stirring, rather
than clear as before... but it works just fine.   I have the same problem
here in HK, I can't get oil with the good stuff in it here.  I now just buy
the ZDDP additive and use whatever I can get here.

I suspect the synthetic oil will probably keep longer, as it is likely
sterile.

On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> It occurred to me to use The Google on this ...
>
> According to several articles I read, if properly stored--between 45-80degF
> and dry--the recommended maximum shelf life is 5 yrs. (that's a
> manufacturers' recommendation, so you can probably get away with longer).
> Like Kees mentioned, some additives can settle out so it's a good idea to
> shake the bottle if it's been sitting too long.
>
> I asked because I stocked up on 20W-50 before they took all the good stuff
> out.
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> Oudesluys wrote:
>
>> Unless the can has been opened I do not think there is any problem.
>> However, if the can once has been opened air will come in and react with the
>> oil in the (very) long run. I have used engine oil of well over 10 years old
>> in the Landrover without ill effects.
>> It will need a good shake as some mixed in substances do sink to the
>> bottom of the can.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Jun 26 19:58:01 2010
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 20:58:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinqB-IHt8_qIdj-ICO2eVWiyb_E52mcfJg7H1yr@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4C266E0B.5000305@comcast.net>
	<4C267293.6060600@chello.nl><4C268A90.7050501@comcast.net>
	<AANLkTinqB-IHt8_qIdj-ICO2eVWiyb_E52mcfJg7H1yr@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <909422E77A2D4F6680D7A2373C9CCFEC@GregPC>

I wonder what the shelf life of Castrol R is, isn't that based on Castor 
oil? Is that where Castrol took its name from? Nothing like the smell of 
burning Castrol R.

Greg Lemon

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jun 26 20:12:45 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 22:12:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
In-Reply-To: <SNT133-w14CE50C1004026A5D4D38EC5C90@phx.gbl>
References: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<SNT133-w14CE50C1004026A5D4D38EC5C90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <521820217CAA4C598E43EE2F38AF515C@LIFEBOOK>

I'm still looking for a generator for an early 100/Six, so it would be a 
Lucas number 22483.

Rich Chrysler

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 8:51 PM
To: "pat quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator Numbers

> Patrick - my 1976 A-H catalog from Sports Car Spares states
>
> 100-4 to CE 223155  - gen - 22456
>
> then                                 22483
>
> 100-six         57 - 59           22483
>
> 3000 MKI      59 - 62           22530
>
> 3000 MKII     62 - 64           22530
>
> 3000 MK III   64 - on           22900
>
>
>
>
> I hope that helps - jim lesher
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 10:00:41 +1000
>> Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
>>
>> G'day
>>
>>
>>
>> A frund (he is in NZ) has a cache of generators and is wanting to work 
>> our
>> which one is which.
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone has a list of Lucas generator numbers and what model
>> Austin-Healey they belong to?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>>
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Sydney, Australia
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
> Hotmail.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
> 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 26 20:42:50 2010
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 22:42:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
In-Reply-To: <521820217CAA4C598E43EE2F38AF515C@LIFEBOOK>
References: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<SNT133-w14CE50C1004026A5D4D38EC5C90@phx.gbl>,
	<521820217CAA4C598E43EE2F38AF515C@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w49AA8220080351666F8F25C5C90@phx.gbl>

that makes 2 of us are looking for #22483 -





> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: cleona44 at hotmail.com; p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
> Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 22:12:45 -0400
>
> I'm still looking for a generator for an early 100/Six, so it would be a
> Lucas number 22483.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 8:51 PM
> To: "pat quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
>
> > Patrick - my 1976 A-H catalog from Sports Car Spares states
> >
> > 100-4 to CE 223155 - gen - 22456
> >
> > then 22483
> >
> > 100-six 57 - 59 22483
> >
> > 3000 MKI 59 - 62 22530
> >
> > 3000 MKII 62 - 64 22530
> >
> > 3000 MK III 64 - on 22900
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I hope that helps - jim lesher
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
> >> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 10:00:41 +1000
> >> Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
> >>
> >> G'day
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> A frund (he is in NZ) has a cache of generators and is wanting to work
> >> our
> >> which one is which.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Does anyone has a list of Lucas generator numbers and what model
> >> Austin-Healey they belong to?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Hoo Roo
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Patrick Quinn
> >>
> >> Sydney, Australia
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
> > Hotmail.
> >
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
> > 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
>


_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
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26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Jun 26 20:53:42 2010
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 19:53:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
In-Reply-To: <521820217CAA4C598E43EE2F38AF515C@LIFEBOOK>
References: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<SNT133-w14CE50C1004026A5D4D38EC5C90@phx.gbl>
	<521820217CAA4C598E43EE2F38AF515C@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <AANLkTiknvVEjjZyiZQRXZWeopj5DV_45Uw9KHMaq_hjr@mail.gmail.com>

Rich,

The early 100-6 cars in '57 used a 22483*A* generator and the later cars
used the 22483*B/D*.  I'll look again for you.

The Bugeye's used the 22265E generator.

Curt

On Sat, Jun 26, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> I'm still looking for a generator for an early 100/Six, so it would be a
> Lucas number 22483.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 8:51 PM
> To: "pat quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
>
>  Patrick - my 1976 A-H catalog from Sports Car Spares states
>>
>> 100-4 to CE 223155  - gen - 22456
>>
>> then                                 22483
>>
>> 100-six         57 - 59           22483
>>
>> 3000 MKI      59 - 62           22530
>>
>> 3000 MKII     62 - 64           22530
>>
>> 3000 MK III   64 - on           22900
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I hope that helps - jim lesher
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 10:00:41 +1000
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
>>>
>>> G'day
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> A frund (he is in NZ) has a cache of generators and is wanting to work
>>> our
>>> which one is which.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone has a list of Lucas generator numbers and what model
>>> Austin-Healey they belong to?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hoo Roo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Patrick Quinn
>>>
>>> Sydney, Australia
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
>> Hotmail.
>>
>> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
>> 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 26 21:11:17 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 20:11:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil --- ZDDP
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinqB-IHt8_qIdj-ICO2eVWiyb_E52mcfJg7H1yr@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <326754.11459.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

As the newbie on the list I think I'm heading into another
controversy/rehash, but speaking of oil and ZDDP....

I've owned my car one
year. I've driven it around 800 (est) miles. I did one oil change when I first
got it on the road last summer at which time I mixed in prescribed amount of
ZDDP adaptive.  I burn/loose about a quart every 3-400 (est) miles at which
time I add a quart of Valvoline Racing oil which has ZDDP.

Does Valvoline
Racing oil have enough ZDDP? 
Should I mix in some additive with every quart?
Am I missing something?

Greg


--- On Sat, 6/26/10, Alan Seigrist
<healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Motor Oil
> To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
>
Cc: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, June 26, 2010,
9:29 PM
> Well - call me an idiot but I put
> several quarts of 10 year old
Castrol
> 20-50, which was improperly stored, in my Mk IX.  I
> figured if
there was any
> mold or bacteria in there the heat would kill it and the
>
filter would get
> it.  so far no probs with the Mk IX... but the oil
>
definitely runs a little
> dirty.  I had to stir it up, and the oil was cloudy
> after stirring, rather
> than clear as before... but it works just
>
fine.   I have the same problem
> here in HK, I can't get oil with the good
stuff in it
> here.  I now just buy
> the ZDDP additive and use whatever I can
get here.
> 
> I suspect the synthetic oil will probably keep longer, as
> it
is likely
> sterile.
> 
> On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell
<bspidell at comcast.net>
> wrote:
> 
> > It occurred to me to use The Google on
this ...
> >
> > According to several articles I read, if properly
>
stored--between 45-80degF
> > and dry--the recommended maximum shelf life is 5
yrs.
> (that's a
> > manufacturers' recommendation, so you can probably get
>
away with longer).
> > Like Kees mentioned, some additives can settle out so
>
it's a good idea to
> > shake the bottle if it's been sitting too long.
> >
>
> I asked because I stocked up on 20W-50 before they
> took all the good stuff
> > out.
> >
> >
> > bs
> >
> >
> >
> > Oudesluys wrote:
> >
> >> Unless the
can has been opened I do not think
> there is any problem.
> >> However, if
the can once has been opened air will
> come in and react with the
> >> oil in
the (very) long run. I have used engine oil
> of well over 10 years old
> >>
in the Landrover without ill effects.
> >> It will need a good shake as some
mixed in
> substances do sink to the
> >> bottom of the can.
> >> Kees
Oudesluijs
> >> NL
> _______________________________________________
>
Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 26 21:50:54 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 20:50:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil --- ZDDP
In-Reply-To: <326754.11459.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <326754.11459.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C26CA9E.9000205@comcast.net>

Welcome to the List.  Yes, it's a rehash, but it's a slow news day.

The consensus now is that most 20W-50 oils probably have (just) enough 
ZDDP for our flat tappet valve trains (although some manufacturers may 
have cut back the amount from earlier formulations).  There aren't any 
modern, catalytic converter-equipped cars that use such a heavy 
oil--most use 5W-30 or 10W-30 and some Hondas and Fords  use 5W-20--so 
20W-50 was apparently exempted from the new regs (or simply overlooked).

Valvoline Racing Oil--the 'street legal' version--probably has enough 
ZDDP that you could use it straight, without any additive.   You'll want 
to change your oil at least once a year regardless of how much/often you 
drive your car, so you could put in 12 of 16ozs of the additive when you 
change the oil, then the other 4oz when you add a qt. (assuming the 
additive comes in pint bottles).  Or just dump it all in when you change 
the oil and don't worry about it.  Or just use the Valvoline and don't 
worry about it.

A quart every 3-400 miles is a bit much, even for a Healey.  Are you 
burning it, or just marking your territory?


bs

Greg Mandas wrote:
> As the newbie on the list I think I'm heading into another controversy/rehash, but speaking of oil and ZDDP....
>
> I've owned my car one year. I've driven it around 800 (est) miles. I did one oil change when I first got it on the road last summer at which time I mixed in prescribed amount of ZDDP adaptive.  I burn/loose about a quart every 3-400 (est) miles at which time I add a quart of Valvoline Racing oil which has ZDDP.
>
> Does Valvoline Racing oil have enough ZDDP? 
> Should I mix in some additive with every quart? 
> Am I missing something?
>
> Greg
>
>   


*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Jun 26 21:52:50 2010
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 20:52:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
In-Reply-To: <SNT133-w1845D4610D83867B9FABE0C5C90@phx.gbl>
References: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<SNT133-w14CE50C1004026A5D4D38EC5C90@phx.gbl>
	<521820217CAA4C598E43EE2F38AF515C@LIFEBOOK>
	<AANLkTiknvVEjjZyiZQRXZWeopj5DV_45Uw9KHMaq_hjr@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT133-w1845D4610D83867B9FABE0C5C90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinf_91o_5B_E944Vkji2_zOuBOZPqWFioXCEtgP@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

The '55 and '56 100's also used the 22483A and 22483B generators
respectively.

Also if anyone needs Lucas part numbers, I have a copy of a Lucas 400 series
Master Parts Manual, the last full edition which covers cars from
1945-1960.  It covers all cars using Lucas equipment from A.C. through
Wolseley, all of the parts and related sub parts.  An invaluable reference
source.  If you need to know the part number for a generator back plate for
a '52 Bedford S type 7 ton truck?  I can find that number.

Curt

On Sat, Jun 26, 2010 at 8:02 PM, Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com> wrote:

>  Curt - thanks for the update
>
> jim lesher
> ------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2010 19:53:42 -0700
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
> From: cnaarndt at gmail.com
> To: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> CC: cleona44 at hotmail.com; p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; healeys at autox.team.net
>
>
> Rich,
>
> The early 100-6 cars in '57 used a 22483*A* generator and the later cars
> used the 22483*B/D*.  I'll look again for you.
>
> The Bugeye's used the 22265E generator.
>
> Curt

From leon5050 at aol.com  Sun Jun 27 04:00:01 2010
From: leon5050 at aol.com (leon5050 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 06:00:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of generators
Message-ID: <8CCE3F6A4D8FE88-1F98-1987D@webmail-stg-d15.sysops.aol.com>

My 62 BT7 generator is black and according to the original owner (my brother)
has always been black.  When I restored the car, I could find no evidence of
there ever being any engine color on it.  He says it has never been changed
and the nos. are correct.  Is there a possibility that the factory had a
faulty generator and just took one off the shelf, unpainted?  I just left it
black, because of what my brother told me.  What do you think?

Jim Nichols
62 BT7 Tri

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Jun 27 07:08:56 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 09:08:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of generators
In-Reply-To: <8CCE3F6A4D8FE88-1F98-1987D@webmail-stg-d15.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCE3F6A4D8FE88-1F98-1987D@webmail-stg-d15.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7287D65C1D45423FA05F36104692C611@LIFEBOOK>

Most likely a dealer swap of a defective generator before the car was sold 
or some such similar occurrence.

Reminds me of a discussion I've had more than once about restoration. One 
must decide what point in the car's life is to be represented to do an 
accurate restoration. There are cars out there with incredible histories, 
that were simply standard production cars when they left the factory, and 
became known for much more later in their life.

Rich Chrysler

--------------------------------------------------
From: <leon5050 at aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 6:00 AM
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of generators

> My 62 BT7 generator is black and according to the original owner (my 
> brother)
> has always been black.  When I restored the car, I could find no evidence 
> of
> there ever being any engine color on it.  He says it has never been 
> changed
> and the nos. are correct.  Is there a possibility that the factory had a
> faulty generator and just took one off the shelf, unpainted?  I just left 
> it
> black, because of what my brother told me.  What do you think?
>
> Jim Nichols
> 62 BT7 Tri
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Jun 27 08:53:25 2010
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 07:53:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of generators
In-Reply-To: <7287D65C1D45423FA05F36104692C611@LIFEBOOK>
References: <8CCE3F6A4D8FE88-1F98-1987D@webmail-stg-d15.sysops.aol.com>
	<7287D65C1D45423FA05F36104692C611@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik-Ci9K65RSMcIu4fZOSN0JtJtQPPqOMr7EFgad@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

I agree with Rich's theory on the generator, and is a plausible explanation.


It would be interesting to check the date of said generator to see if it
corresponds with the production date of your car.  All Lucas electrical
parts from the period were dated with the month and the year, e.g. in the
case of my BN1 built on 11 Jan. '55 the Lucas parts range from 9 54 to 12
54.  This corresponds to other cars I've worked on and observed over the
years, with there typically being a range of about 1 to 4 months prior to
the build date on *most* Lucas parts.

BTW the Concours judging standards DO NOT take into account the date of your
Lucas parts, so everyone, please don't start searching for not only the
correct part number but the date too.  Way to frustrating and time consuming
as well as expensive and not required.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 6:08 AM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Most likely a dealer swap of a defective generator before the car was sold
> or some such similar occurrence.
>
> Reminds me of a discussion I've had more than once about restoration. One
> must decide what point in the car's life is to be represented to do an
> accurate restoration. There are cars out there with incredible histories,
> that were simply standard production cars when they left the factory, and
> became known for much more later in their life.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <leon5050 at aol.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 6:00 AM
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of generators
>
>  My 62 BT7 generator is black and according to the original owner (my
>> brother)
>> has always been black.  When I restored the car, I could find no evidence
>> of
>> there ever being any engine color on it.  He says it has never been
>> changed
>> and the nos. are correct.  Is there a possibility that the factory had a
>> faulty generator and just took one off the shelf, unpainted?  I just left
>> it
>> black, because of what my brother told me.  What do you think?
>>
>> Jim Nichols
>> 62 BT7 Tri
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 27 19:35:44 2010
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 21:35:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
In-Reply-To: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <E70DE4E0F16B42EE97A71D180D1A6775@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w17FF73A59ED42DDDCA5624C5CA0@phx.gbl>

Patrick - I just checked my copy of the A-H "100-Six" Preliminary Maintenance
Instructions, Pub # 1434, Oct, 1956 and it states that for the 100-Six the
Dynamo should be the Lucas type C45PV2, so tell your friend  that I am
definitely interested if he finds one of those in his generator cache

thanks - jim lesher

> From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 10:00:41 +1000
> Subject: [Healeys] Generator Numbers
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> A frund (he is in NZ) has a cache of generators and is wanting to work our
> which one is which.
>
>
>
> Does anyone has a list of Lucas generator numbers and what model
> Austin-Healey they belong to?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 27 21:32:56 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 20:32:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rendevous via Redding, CA
In-Reply-To: <COL110-W35949BB29DE8D2BA02F7D7DCC70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W522CDBD291F5E414B72245A4DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<COL110-W35949BB29DE8D2BA02F7D7DCC70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL121-W2683AC70A13036050A3F96A4CA0@phx.gbl>

On your suggestion, we visited the bridge. Very neat. The river was high and
running fast. The air temps was 105 but about 85 under the bridge.We will be
heading out early in  the morning to avoid the heat on the climb. We got here
at 1:00 and it was 97 but the Healey ran under 190. Thanks
Rich

From: kipannette at hotmail.com
To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Rendevous via Redding, CA
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:14:09 +0000








Hi Rich,

We're not going to be able to go this year, but you should try to walk the
Sundial Bridge, Sunday evening.  If you are heading up I-5, you will be going
over Shasta Lake, which is as full as it has been in a few years, by Castle
Crags, a nice state park, and Dunsmuir, a cute little town with a couple of
good restaurants.  You will also see Mt. Shasta, still with lots of snow, on
the way north to Weed and Yreka.

Enjoy,

Kip Williams


> Anyone heading to Eugen, OR for the Rendevous via Redding, CA? We will be
> staying at the Fairfield Inn Sunday the 27th. Anything (fun) to see on the
way
> up from Redding? We are heading up from South Lake Tahoe via Sacramento on
> Sunday morning and would be happy to join up with anyone along the way.
> Rich Kahn


The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
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From banjojohn at cox.net  Sun Jun 27 21:42:50 2010
From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 22:42:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings
In-Reply-To: <F99AEE1FA5454831B77EDBA35E19C450@authorizf47d14>
References: <F99AEE1FA5454831B77EDBA35E19C450@authorizf47d14>
Message-ID: <A5531D7470F547458D65AA23B86EF9B5@authorizf47d14>

As a follow up, I have talked to Audiovox 3 times so far.  They suggested a
relay set up on the brake light switch to Make sure the purple wire goes to
ground when you're not stepping on the brake.  Did that, and still no luck,
I also tried various combinations of the dip switches, i.e. switch 1 set to
of (2000 PPM). Tried setting for low medium and high sensitivity on vacuum,
got some different reactions but none worked properly.  I tried switching to
tach only setting, No difference.  The last tech I spoke to said I should
check my vacuum to see if it is enough to operate the system.  My vacuum
gauge showed 14 to 15 in. HG when cruising 35 to 40 Mph. As soon as I
accelerate or start up a hill the vacuum drops.  He said the unit needs 14
to 21 in. HG to operate.  I'm right on the low end.  Any ideas?  I'll call
the tech line again tomorrow.  Is there such a thing as an auxiliary vacuum
pump for automotive applications that might make this thing work?
I see Audiovox also has a different (More expensive) model that does not
need a vacuum source to work
BTW I read the article on the installation from Linwood Rose.  I also have
my BJ8 converted to negative ground.  Linwood, do you know how much vacuum
you are getting to the unit?  

John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John O'Brien
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 10:31 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] cruise control settings

I know several of you have installed an Audiovox ccs-100 in your Healeys.  I
just completed the install but it is not working.  When cruising I hit the
set button and can sometimes feel it try to take over, but just for a
moment.  I'm wondering if I have all the dip switches set right.  I have 1,
3, and 7 on and the rest off.  I see the manual shows a low sensitivity
setting for light vehicles with high horsepower.  Should I try this setting?
What are the settings others have had success with? Any other thoughts on
what might be going on?

 

Thanks for your help

John O'Brien

'61 bugeye

'65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From gmandas at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 27 22:58:45 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 21:58:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil --- ZDDP
Message-ID: <664771.8710.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Bob, 

Thanks for the response. I now know I have one more base covered. 

I'm sure I'm burning it as well as leaving my calling card. Occasionally I get a bit of blue smoke on startup and my drippage makes it hard to park when out and about. It has lead to a couple of embarrassing moments, quickly forgiven because of the car's coolness factor.

As the car and I build trust and faith in each other, my driving is mostly short 20-30 miles jaunts. I'm thinking that means I'm loosing more through dripping than if I made longer trips. Also, the milage in my original post were SWAGS (wildass guesses), so basically, I have no idea what's going on. I should take it to my mechanic for a leak-down test.

If you don't mind me droning on ...

I think the rings are good because the compression test I did had good but interesting results.  Starting at cylinder #1 the compression was 165#. From the there the numbers rose incrementally, 165#, 167#, 170#, ....  until the 6th which had 180#. Is this a symptom or coincidence? 

Oil pressure runs 60# at startup and 25-30# when heat saturated. I'm assuming jet-black oil is customary for these engines.

Regarding oils in modern engines, my daughter's Honda Civic Hybrid runs 0W-20. 

Greg

--- On Sat, 6/26/10, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Motor Oil --- ZDDP
To: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas at yahoo.com>
Cc: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>, "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, June 26, 2010, 11:50 PM
Welcome to the List.  Yes, it's
a rehash, but it's a slow news day.

The consensus now is that most 20W-50 oils probably have
(just) enough ZDDP for our flat tappet valve trains
(although some manufacturers may have cut back the amount
from earlier formulations).  There aren't any modern,
catalytic converter-equipped cars that use such a heavy
oil--most use 5W-30 or 10W-30 and some Hondas and
Fords  use 5W-20--so 20W-50 was apparently exempted
from the new regs (or simply overlooked).

Valvoline Racing Oil--the 'street legal' version--probably
has enough ZDDP that you could use it straight, without any
additive.   You'll want to change your oil at
least once a year regardless of how much/often you drive
your car, so you could put in 12 of 16ozs of the additive
when you change the oil, then the other 4oz when you add a
qt. (assuming the additive comes in pint bottles).  Or
just dump it all in when you change the oil and don't worry
about it.  Or just use the Valvoline and don't worry
about it.

A quart every 3-400 miles is a bit much, even for a
Healey.  Are you burning it, or just marking your
territory?


bs

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jun 28 02:45:42 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 10:45:42 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Oil --- ZDDP
In-Reply-To: <664771.8710.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <664771.8710.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C286136.1010903@chello.nl>

Greg
Did you run the compression test with a cold engine?, that should 
explain the rising readings as more oil will then deposited on the 
bores/rings, making a better seal . Repeat with a hot engine and compare.
Jet black oil is caused by blow by of the burned fuel gasses passing the 
cilinder bores/pistons.
Oli pressure seems a bit low, one would expect 50psi+ on a healthy 
engine, but I am not sure what the specs are on these engines.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Greg Mandas wrote:
> Bob, 
>
> Thanks for the response. I now know I have one more base covered. 
>
> I'm sure I'm burning it as well as leaving my calling card. Occasionally I get a bit of blue smoke on startup and my drippage makes it hard to park when out and about. It has lead to a couple of embarrassing moments, quickly forgiven because of the car's coolness factor.
>
> As the car and I build trust and faith in each other, my driving is mostly short 20-30 miles jaunts. I'm thinking that means I'm loosing more through dripping than if I made longer trips. Also, the milage in my original post were SWAGS (wildass guesses), so basically, I have no idea what's going on. I should take it to my mechanic for a leak-down test.
>
> If you don't mind me droning on ...
>
> I think the rings are good because the compression test I did had good but interesting results.  Starting at cylinder #1 the compression was 165#. From the there the numbers rose incrementally, 165#, 167#, 170#, ....  until the 6th which had 180#. Is this a symptom or coincidence? 
>
> Oil pressure runs 60# at startup and 25-30# when heat saturated. I'm assuming jet-black oil is customary for these engines.
>
> Regarding oils in modern engines, my daughter's Honda Civic Hybrid runs 0W-20. 
>
> Greg

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Jun 28 05:22:04 2010
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 21:22:04 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of generators
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik-Ci9K65RSMcIu4fZOSN0JtJtQPPqOMr7EFgad@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8CCE3F6A4D8FE88-1F98-1987D@webmail-stg-d15.sysops.aol.com>
	<7287D65C1D45423FA05F36104692C611@LIFEBOOK>
	<AANLkTik-Ci9K65RSMcIu4fZOSN0JtJtQPPqOMr7EFgad@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F1021970-0CC1-4D2F-A212-D6B5B0DBBEA8@gmail.com>

I had a similar conversation (in the early 1980's) with an original  
employee of Larke Hoskins, the original distributor of BN1's, and  
later Healeys,  and Bugeye Sprites in Australia.
He told me exactly the same thing happened with starter motors,  
generators, and front shocks. Mostly black, some shocks were  
unpainted  Those items, and exhausts, were the most common components  
replaced before Healeys were 'delivered' to dealers by the Australian  
distributor, after a sea voyage to Australia.
Of course, later on, Sprites were CKD kits assembled here, using  
Australian components (e.g Lucas Australia built voltage regulators).
I also love interesting trivia.
Sincerely.
Chris

On 28/06/2010, at 12:53 AM, "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt at gmail.com>  
wrote:

> Jim,
>
> I agree with Rich's theory on the generator, and is a plausible  
> explanation.
>
>
> It would be interesting to check the date of said generator to see  
> if it
> corresponds with the production date of your car.  All Lucas  
> electrical
> parts from the period were dated with the month and the year, e.g.  
> in the
> case of my BN1 built on 11 Jan. '55 the Lucas parts range from 9 54  
> to 12
> 54.  This corresponds to other cars I've worked on and observed over  
> the
> years, with there typically being a range of about 1 to 4 months  
> prior to
> the build date on *most* Lucas parts.
>
> BTW the Concours judging standards DO NOT take into account the date  
> of your
> Lucas parts, so everyone, please don't start searching for not only  
> the
> correct part number but the date too.  Way to frustrating and time  
> consuming
> as well as expensive and not required.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 6:08 AM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>  
> wrote:
>
>> Most likely a dealer swap of a defective generator before the car  
>> was sold
>> or some such similar occurrence.
>>
>> Reminds me of a discussion I've had more than once about  
>> restoration. One
>> must decide what point in the car's life is to be represented to do  
>> an
>> accurate restoration. There are cars out there with incredible  
>> histories,
>> that were simply standard production cars when they left the  
>> factory, and
>> became known for much more later in their life.
>>
>> Rich Chrysler
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: <leon5050 at aol.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 6:00 AM
>> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of generators
>>
>> My 62 BT7 generator is black and according to the original owner (my
>>> brother)
>>> has always been black.  When I restored the car, I could find no  
>>> evidence
>>> of
>>> there ever being any engine color on it.  He says it has never been
>>> changed
>>> and the nos. are correct.  Is there a possibility that the factory  
>>> had a
>>> faulty generator and just took one off the shelf, unpainted?  I  
>>> just left
>>> it
>>> black, because of what my brother told me.

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Mon Jun 28 06:41:34 2010
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 08:41:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trident Clipper V8
Message-ID: <AB28AC85-11A1-49AA-B897-DF441ED6497E@gmail.com>

Interesting on Bring a Trailer this AM.    http://bringatrailer.com     (Also
ebay Item Number: 180525549133 )

"This 1967 Trident Clipper V8 is one of only about 130 ever made and is a true
rocket with a Ford V8, fiberglass Fissore bodywork, and a Healey 3000
chassis."

Never seen one before.

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From logical2 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 28 07:52:48 2010
From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 13:52:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 ipholstery
Message-ID: <COL120-W12ADF00B4AF0303A6E4A299ECA0@phx.gbl>

Hello Healey people;



I know this has been discussed before so please forgive me for bringing it up
again but maybe there are some new ideas out there.



Just got my interior back from the upholstery shop.  I installed the drivers
seat (sort of an instant gratification thing, I think) to be able to sit in my
car for the first time in 20+ years.  The seat cushions are too dense.  You
don't set in the seat, you sit on top of it.  I get in my 69 Midget and sink
down in the seat.  Much softer.  Big difference.



Any thoughts, new or old, on this "issue"?



Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com



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From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net  Mon Jun 28 09:16:00 2010
From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (Phil Rittenhouse)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 08:16:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson in OC
Message-ID: <C3C78022-99EC-4EA2-AAC0-A2FE3F5FA710@verizon.net>

I went to Barrett Jackson Sunday. Did anyone else go?

Phil

Sent from my iPhone

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun 28 09:38:15 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 15:38:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 ipholstery
In-Reply-To: <COL120-W12ADF00B4AF0303A6E4A299ECA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <428027103.72181.1277739495848.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

The foam will eventually compress quite a bit--I'd give it a couple thousand miles and see. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Edwards" <logical2 at hotmail.com> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 6:52:48 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 ipholstery 

Hello Healey people; 



I know this has been discussed before so please forgive me for bringing it up 
again but maybe there are some new ideas out there. 



Just got my interior back from the upholstery shop. I installed the drivers 
seat (sort of an instant gratification thing, I think) to be able to sit in my 
car for the first time in 20+ years. The seat cushions are too dense. You 
don't set in the seat, you sit on top of it. I get in my 69 Midget and sink 
down in the seat. Much softer. Big difference. 



Any thoughts, new or old, on this "issue"? 



Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com 

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Mon Jun 28 11:55:15 2010
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:55:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 ipholstery
In-Reply-To: <COL120-W12ADF00B4AF0303A6E4A299ECA0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL120-W12ADF00B4AF0303A6E4A299ECA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilt72R9V9Jb2g_BQdDUI_8S5Wyt73hSEl9AhgR4@mail.gmail.com>

frank,
i had the same problem when i added the factory hardtop in late '07.  my
problem was needing additional headroom.  i'm 6-3 with a 32"inseam (long
body).  using the norman nock hole drilling procedure for the foam resulted
in a slight relaxation of the foam, however, lopping about 2" from the
bottom of the foam gave me the headroom needed.  if it's the same seat foam
that was used in the late 80's and early 90's, it will never relax.  mine
was in place for over 20 years and i always looked over the top of the
windscreen.
cheers,

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 8:52 AM, Frank Edwards <logical2 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hello Healey people;
>
>
>
> I know this has been discussed before so please forgive me for bringing it
> up
> again but maybe there are some new ideas out there.
>
>
>
> Just got my interior back from the upholstery shop.  I installed the
> drivers
> seat (sort of an instant gratification thing, I think) to be able to sit in
> my
> car for the first time in 20+ years.  The seat cushions are too dense.  You
> don't set in the seat, you sit on top of it.  I get in my 69 Midget and
> sink
> down in the seat.  Much softer.  Big difference.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts, new or old, on this "issue"?
>
>
>
> Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
> inbox.
>
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
> :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1<http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL%0A:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forums%0AUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Mon Jun 28 11:58:54 2010
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:58:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson in OC
In-Reply-To: <C3C78022-99EC-4EA2-AAC0-A2FE3F5FA710@verizon.net>
References: <C3C78022-99EC-4EA2-AAC0-A2FE3F5FA710@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinzS9HTwKoUGmjpmKHNif9TmathrYQHZVQxuott@mail.gmail.com>

i was there via speedvision on fri, sat and sun.  seemed to be some good
buys (if a person had any cash)
cheers,

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 10:16 AM, Phil Rittenhouse <
prittenhouse2 at verizon.net> wrote:

> I went to Barrett Jackson Sunday. Did anyone else go?
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From healey at hunterbane.com  Mon Jun 28 12:36:58 2010
From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 14:36:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trident on BaT- Healey Content
Message-ID: <8A85A746-08FD-4228-8865-E4BDD3246200@hunterbane.com>

Maybe this could have been the Healey 5000

http://bringatrailer.com/2010/06/28/rare-fissore-coupe-1967-trident-clipper-v8-httpcgi-ebay-comebaymotorstvr-v8-griffith-v8-tuscan-v8-trident-v8-180525549133cmdviewitemptus_cars_truckshashitem2a0829464d/

Olin

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Jun 28 12:40:08 2010
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 13:40:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  cruise control settings
Message-ID: <AANLkTimZvzICOqO1AZdQPIsN2LhAKC2PNpuSvyJky7Dj@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not sure why the tech gave you that spec. The conventional wisdom is
that 6 cylinder cars have all the vacuum you need.My MGC runs fine with a
cruise control. Four cylinder MGs run fine with the Audiovox.

 However, if you decide that you need more vacuum, then there are little
plastic vacuum chambers you can put in the vacuum line to keep the vacuum up
when decelerating. I don't have my Whitney catalog handy, but I got one
years ago from them. Never needed it for my MG with the Audiovox control
that you are installing. .

Jack

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Jun 28 12:47:26 2010
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 13:47:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 seat upholstery
Message-ID: <AANLkTilfAPuJjoMfe16j5TNRgJ0mbyAOZSyk2Re7wh78@mail.gmail.com>

The aftermarket seat cushions are notoriously too thick to be a good
substitute. When I replace the foam in my MGC drivers seat I barely could
get under the steering wheel. We took the bottom apart and cut the cushion
to half thickness. It still is a bit tight.

When I got my BT7 back with the hardtop on I couldn't get into the car! I
have to squat down next to the car, insert my head under the hard top, then
sit on the seat and pivot into position.  I"m only 5'7".

Jack

From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net  Mon Jun 28 12:55:24 2010
From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (Phil Rittenhouse)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 11:55:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson in OC
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinzS9HTwKoUGmjpmKHNif9TmathrYQHZVQxuott@mail.gmail.com>
References: <C3C78022-99EC-4EA2-AAC0-A2FE3F5FA710@verizon.net>
	<AANLkTinzS9HTwKoUGmjpmKHNif9TmathrYQHZVQxuott@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <718AB411-1A72-4D4C-B95A-8AC02534C77C@verizon.net>

I saw two Kurt Tanner cars, I believe a BN7 and a BT7 that looked  
fantastic.

Phil

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 28, 2010, at 10:58 AM, jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com> wrote:

> i was there via speedvision on fri, sat and sun.  seemed to be some  
> good
> buys (if a person had any cash)
> cheers,
>
> On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 10:16 AM, Phil Rittenhouse <
> prittenhouse2 at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> I went to Barrett Jackson Sunday. Did anyone else go?
>>
>> Phil
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> jerry wall  BN6
> rowlett, tx
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/prittenhouse2 at verizon.net

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 28 13:16:15 2010
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 15:16:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson in OC
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinzS9HTwKoUGmjpmKHNif9TmathrYQHZVQxuott@mail.gmail.com>
References: <C3C78022-99EC-4EA2-AAC0-A2FE3F5FA710@verizon.net>,
	<AANLkTinzS9HTwKoUGmjpmKHNif9TmathrYQHZVQxuott@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT133-w1279084D4187780EF8D355C5CA0@phx.gbl>

How did the healeys do? I saw the white 3000 done by Tanner go for 61,000 or
63,000.

what did they look like, up close and personal?



jim

> Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:58:54 -0500
> From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
> To: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson in OC
>
> i was there via speedvision on fri, sat and sun. seemed to be some good
> buys (if a person had any cash)
> cheers,
>
> On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 10:16 AM, Phil Rittenhouse <
> prittenhouse2 at verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > I went to Barrett Jackson Sunday. Did anyone else go?
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
> >
>
>
>
> --
> jerry wall BN6
> rowlett, tx
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net  Mon Jun 28 14:30:15 2010
From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (Phil Rittenhouse)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 13:30:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson in OC
In-Reply-To: <SNT133-w1279084D4187780EF8D355C5CA0@phx.gbl>
References: <C3C78022-99EC-4EA2-AAC0-A2FE3F5FA710@verizon.net>,
	<AANLkTinzS9HTwKoUGmjpmKHNif9TmathrYQHZVQxuott@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT133-w1279084D4187780EF8D355C5CA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <DA4BE319-1882-4326-9095-D454AF1985EE@verizon.net>

Both the white BN7 and the blue BT7 were amazing. I couldn't see in  
the hood or trunk, but everything else looked flawless. Granted, they  
were both off fresh restorations, but everything looked brand new. One  
of the things that caught my attention was how nice the dashboards  
looked. It looked like all of the instruments were brand new and shiny.

There was also a red BJ7, but it looked like it had a little wear (not  
a fresh resto)

Phil

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 28, 2010, at 12:16 PM, Jim Lesher <cleona44 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> How did the healeys do? I saw the white 3000 done by Tanner go for  
> 61,000 or
> 63,000.
>
> what did they look like, up close and personal?
>
>
>
> jim
>
>> Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:58:54 -0500
>> From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>> To: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net
>> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Barrett Jackson in OC
>>
>> i was there via speedvision on fri, sat and sun. seemed to be some  
>> good
>> buys (if a person had any cash)
>> cheers,
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 10:16 AM, Phil Rittenhouse <
>> prittenhouse2 at verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I went to Barrett Jackson Sunday. Did anyone else go?
>>>
>>> Phil
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> jerry wall BN6
>> rowlett, tx
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars  
> with
> Hotmail.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
> 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/prittenhouse2 at verizon.net

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Jun 28 15:02:59 2010
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 21:02:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rube gawking in DC
Message-ID: <BAY144-W104A6437102C71E8B8041EA5CA0@phx.gbl>

I'm headed out on vacation today, Black Hills, Mt. Rushmore, etc. but soon
after we get back SWMBO and I are traveling to the DC area (Falls Church) so
she can attend some training. I will be along as her consort and will be off
duty during the week days. Can anyone fill me in on Healey or LBC events that
might be happening in the area? We will be arriving Saturday the 10th and
departing Sunday the 18th. In addition to the usual landmarks and monuments I
plan to take in the Smithsonian Air and Space museums. Do they also have an
Automobile exhibit. If not, who does? Any other suggestions will be greatly
appreciated.
Bill Lawrence AKA Clem Cadiddlehopper

From watterbury at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 28 18:24:06 2010
From: watterbury at yahoo.com (William Atterbury)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 17:24:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone ever heard of a Trident Clipper
Message-ID: <918067.99992.qm@web31802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180525549133&vi
ewitem=
 
Healey chassis and some Healey parts.
 
Bill Atterbury
1962 BT7

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 28 22:22:15 2010
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 21:22:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone ever heard of a Trident Clipper
In-Reply-To: <918067.99992.qm@web31802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <36144.56737.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yep - just another has been British Car Company ....

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Mon, 6/28/10, William Atterbury <watterbury at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: William Atterbury <watterbury at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Anyone ever heard of a Trident Clipper
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, June 28, 2010, 5:24 PM
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180525549133&vi
> ewitem=
>
> Healey chassis and some Healey parts.
>
> Bill Atterbury
> 1962 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com

From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jun 28 22:57:05 2010
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 00:57:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Rendezvous
Message-ID: <8CCE55EA7C441C6-2E64-4E8A@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com>

Healey Rendezvous Rally 2010
Day One Update:
Had a great drive down from our sons place in Portland. The Oregon sky
was clear and bright and actually warm. We enjoyed the blue skies after
a week in Alaska's cloudy wet clime. Eugene is a bustling city with the
beautiful Willamette River adjacent to the Valley River Inn. Today was
registration and a reception at the pool. Good to see some long time
friends and meet a bunch of new folks. Tomorrow will be the car show
and concours followed by a lunch in the park and a tech session for the
greasy fingernail bunch.

The Oregon club has picked a great location and we are looking forward
to enjoying the 40th anniversary of the founding of the Austin Healey
Club USA, one of the terrific national clubs we can enjoy.

All the best and wish you were here.
Aloha
Perry

From paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Jun 29 03:12:11 2010
From: paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk (Paul Baker)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 02:12:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Heater
Message-ID: <284743.67859.qm@web23401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Took the car for a run and moved the heater control slider over to the off
position.  When I stopped the car a leak appeared from the heater area which I
assume to be from the heater control valve.  Moved the slider back to on and
the leak stopped.  

I assume this is a heater out job to replace whatevers
causing the problem and everything else while I'm there.  I also assume I need
to take the dash out to do this or has someone found a better way to get the
heater out?

Paul

66 BJ8
67 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jun 29 03:42:53 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 17:42:53 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Heater
In-Reply-To: <284743.67859.qm@web23401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <284743.67859.qm@web23401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikuT7xL56VOEZhwqNQrey01Kl8WvJQM6tT0Rtsp@mail.gmail.com>

Paul -

You don't need to remove the dash for this.

The fastest way to fix this is to remove the center console then reach up
and remove the six screws which hold the heater to the bulkhead.  With the
console out these screws are pretty easy to reach.  The heater will then
drop a bit and you should be able to get enough hand space in there to
unbolt the valve and then remove it from the hose.  I've done it this way
before.  It might help to remove one or both of the seats to give you more
room, but I can do it with the seats in place.

Make sure you have a piece of plumbers packing or an o-ring to fit in the
gap to seal the valve to the heater box.

Alan

On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 5:12 PM, Paul Baker <paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Took the car for a run and moved the heater control slider over to the off
> position.  When I stopped the car a leak appeared from the heater area
> which I
> assume to be from the heater control valve.  Moved the slider back to on
> and
> the leak stopped.
>
> I assume this is a heater out job to replace whatevers
> causing the problem and everything else while I'm there.  I also assume I
> need
> to take the dash out to do this or has someone found a better way to get
> the
> heater out?
>
> Paul
>
> 66 BJ8
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

From scvc70 at epix.net  Tue Jun 29 07:26:08 2010
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 09:26:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rube gawking in DC
References: <BAY144-W104A6437102C71E8B8041EA5CA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <404E59606C3147C8812058334E49DD31@computer624080>

Bill --

The Smithsonian's National Museum of American History is the place--the 
"America on the Move" transportation collection.


Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 5:02 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Rube gawking in DC


> I'm headed out on vacation today, Black Hills, Mt. Rushmore, etc. but soon
> after we get back SWMBO and I are traveling to the DC area (Falls Church) 
> so
> she can attend some training. I will be along as her consort and will be 
> off
> duty during the week days. Can anyone fill me in on Healey or LBC events 
> that
> might be happening in the area? We will be arriving Saturday the 10th and
> departing Sunday the 18th. In addition to the usual landmarks and 
> monuments I
> plan to take in the Smithsonian Air and Space museums. Do they also have 
> an
> Automobile exhibit. If not, who does? Any other suggestions will be 
> greatly
> appreciated.
> Bill Lawrence AKA Clem Cadiddlehopper
> _______________________________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jun 29 07:48:00 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 21:48:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rube gawking in DC
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W104A6437102C71E8B8041EA5CA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY144-W104A6437102C71E8B8041EA5CA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik2GXEm_ZQrj1HqC6lKY9EG0Lj2YoswlTuJ_QQB@mail.gmail.com>

If you are into the planes the Udvar Hazy Smithsonian at Dulles is the
best thing sine sliced bread, all the Nazi and Japanese crazy stuff is
on display....


On 6/29/10, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> I'm headed out on vacation today, Black Hills, Mt. Rushmore, etc. but soon
> after we get back SWMBO and I are traveling to the DC area (Falls Church) so
> she can attend some training. I will be along as her consort and will be off
> duty during the week days. Can anyone fill me in on Healey or LBC events
> that
> might be happening in the area? We will be arriving Saturday the 10th and
> departing Sunday the 18th. In addition to the usual landmarks and monuments
> I
> plan to take in the Smithsonian Air and Space museums. Do they also have an
> Automobile exhibit. If not, who does? Any other suggestions will be greatly
> appreciated.
> Bill Lawrence AKA Clem Cadiddlehopper
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 29 08:33:11 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 07:33:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Rendezvous
In-Reply-To: <8CCE55EA7C441C6-2E64-4E8A@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCE55EA7C441C6-2E64-4E8A@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W4496A2CA650CEE3292B39FA4CB0@phx.gbl>

The theme is Margareta Ville. That may give you an idea about the party last
night. We probably embarrassed Jimmy Buffet!
Techs should be good but we are looking forward to the covered bridge tour.
There are way over 150 BEAUTIFUL Healeys. I thought we would have a chance for
an award with fresh paint, new carpet and refinished dash but WOW! they all
look like new!
Rich Kahn

> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 00:57:05 -0400
> From: healeyguy at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Rendezvous
>
> Healey Rendezvous Rally 2010
> Day One Update:
> Had a great drive down from our sons place in Portland. The Oregon sky
> was clear and bright and actually warm. We enjoyed the blue skies after
> a week in Alaska's cloudy wet clime. Eugene is a bustling city with the
> beautiful Willamette River adjacent to the Valley River Inn. Today was
> registration and a reception at the pool. Good to see some long time
> friends and meet a bunch of new folks. Tomorrow will be the car show
> and concours followed by a lunch in the park and a tech session for the
> greasy fingernail bunch.
>
> The Oregon club has picked a great location and we are looking forward
> to enjoying the 40th anniversary of the founding of the Austin Healey
> Club USA, one of the terrific national clubs we can enjoy.
>
> All the best and wish you were here.
> Aloha
> Perry
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From ssanders at midsouthinc.com  Tue Jun 29 09:05:53 2010
From: ssanders at midsouthinc.com (Steve Sanders)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 10:05:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trailer Length
Message-ID: <8D2B4B8014A24C9A94A5001E532D107A@C>

I have had a 20' enclosed car hauler for 10 years and used it to transport my
BT-7 to several shows.  The trailer was recently stolen from my house - Thank
goodness my Healey was in the workshop locked up.

I am going to get another trailer.  Does anyone use an 18' or even 16'
enclosed trailer for a big Healey?  I had a tool box in the front that was
very handy - but there seemed to be a lot of room at the rear.

Comments- suggestions?

Best Regards

Steve Sanders
61 BT-7

From Paull at glasgows.co.uk  Tue Jun 29 09:50:57 2010
From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 16:50:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>

After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic
ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the carbs
using a carb kit.  However, I still can't seem to get any power.



I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a timing
gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound and
I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around the
inlet manifold, etc.).



So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been up
and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any
success.



The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on
acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat!



Any ideas?



Thanks



Paul Leeks

Lancashire

100/6 BN4



Glasgows
Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW

Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566
Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk <mailto:paull at paull@glasgows.co.uk>

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From gmandas at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 29 09:52:14 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 08:52:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rube gawking in DC
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTik2GXEm_ZQrj1HqC6lKY9EG0Lj2YoswlTuJ_QQB@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <658625.168.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

If you're into restorations of planes check out the Paul Garber Center. 
Call for reservations.

http://www.nasm.si.edu/garber/


--- On Tue, 6/29/10, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rube gawking in DC
> To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, June 29, 2010, 9:48 AM
> If you are into the planes the Udvar
> Hazy Smithsonian at Dulles is the
> best thing sine sliced bread, all the Nazi and Japanese
> crazy stuff is
> on display....

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 29 09:54:52 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 15:54:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
Message-ID: <465005755.13345.1277826892117.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Sounds like valve timing is off. You'll need to check the lift of the #1 intake valve at TDC to confirm, one way or another. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic 
ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the carbs 
using a carb kit. However, I still can't seem to get any power. 



I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a timing 
gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound and 
I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around the 
inlet manifold, etc.). 



So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been up 
and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any 
success. 



The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on 
acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat! 



Any ideas? 



Thanks 



Paul Leeks 

Lancashire 

100/6 BN4 



Glasgows 
Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW 



________________________________________________________________________ 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 29 09:58:36 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 15:58:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <465005755.13345.1277826892117.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1818855290.13650.1277827116946.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Oops ... the lift isn't checked at TDC, but at some point on the intake stroke. Don't know the exact procedure, offhand. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> 
To: "Paul Leeks" <Paull at glasgows.co.uk> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 8:54:52 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice 

Sounds like valve timing is off. You'll need to check the lift of the #1 intake valve at TDC to confirm, one way or another. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic 
ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the carbs 
using a carb kit. However, I still can't seem to get any power. 



I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a timing 
gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound and 
I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around the 
inlet manifold, etc.). 



So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been up 
and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any 
success. 



The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on 
acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat! 



Any ideas? 



Thanks 



Paul Leeks 

Lancashire 

100/6 BN4 



Glasgows 
Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW 



________________________________________________________________________ 
This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The 
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From Paull at glasgows.co.uk  Tue Jun 29 10:01:13 2010
From: Paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 17:01:13 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
Message-ID: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCC@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>

Thanks Bob.



I did set them right back at the beginning, but definitely worth doing again!



Cheers



Paul



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net]
Sent: 29 June 2010 16:59
To: Paul Leeks
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Paul Leeks
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice



Oops ... the lift isn't checked at TDC, but at some point on the intake
stroke.  Don't know the exact procedure, offhand.

bs

--------------------------------
 ______


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From gmandas at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 29 10:07:16 2010
From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 09:07:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <465005755.13345.1277826892117.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <824958.56087.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I'm wondering if the carbs go lean when you open the throttle.

There are a few videos on YouTube on SU repair and maintenance. One speaks to
proper venting and dampening of the dash pots. Something, on the edge of my
memory, about vented versus non-vented fill caps.  If the dash pot isn't
properly dampened the mixture goes lean on acceleration as opposed to going
rich, as it should.

Just chatting up the discussion.

Greg

--- On Tue, 6/29/10, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
> To: "Paul Leeks" <Paull at glasgows.co.uk>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, June 29, 2010, 11:54 AM
> Sounds like valve timing is off.
> You'll need to check the lift of the #1 intake valve at TDC
> to confirm, one way or another.
>
> bs
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I
> put an electronic
> ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and
> rebuilt the carbs
> using a carb kit. However, I still can't seem to get any
> power.
>
>
>
> I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having
> checked it with a timing
> gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.)
> seem to be sound and
> I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie
> leaks around the
> inlet manifold, etc.).
>
>
>
> So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs,
> but I have been up
> and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again)
> without any
> success.
>
>
>
> The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very
> sluggish pick-up on
> acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type
> rat-ta-tat-tat!
>
>
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Paul Leeks
>
> Lancashire
>
> 100/6 BN4
>
>
>
> Glasgows
> Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star.
> The
> service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on
> a proactive
> anti-virus service working around the clock, around the
> globe, visit:
> http://www.star.net.uk
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From mslechta at chartermi.net  Tue Jun 29 10:25:38 2010
From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 11:25:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trailer Length
In-Reply-To: <8D2B4B8014A24C9A94A5001E532D107A@C>
References: <8D2B4B8014A24C9A94A5001E532D107A@C>
Message-ID: <13D49DC9604B43A7AB3C89218F560FFF@MikesLaptop>

Steve - I also have (& still have) a 20' enclosed trailer.  In my opinion, you
can never have enough room, but I wouldn't go over 20'.  Any more than that &
you almost need a dedicated tow vehicle.  In 2000 I was at the TX Healey
Roundup & saw a Wells Cargo motorcycle trailer with a big Healey in it.  Very
nice fit, so I talked to the owner.  The reason he went with a cycle trailer
was because overall height was low enough that he could get it under a
conventional 8' garage door.  I liked that idea & I have cycles too so it
wasn't a tough decision for me.  The only thing I didn't like about it was
that I had black & white (checkered flag) linoleum installed on the deck.
Looks very nice, but a real pain to keep clean & the worst problem is if you
get the slightest bit of moisture on the floor or your tires, if becomes very
slippery.  I ended up putting adhesive backed "anti-skid" material where the
tires go & that helped, but looks like shit.
The thing about going bigger instead of smaller is that you have a lot of room
for "extras" - ie:  hanging clothes, tools & spares, but most of all, the
necessary coolers.  I have even had my BJ-8 towards the rear & loaded a cycle
through the man door in the front.  Hauled from WI to the Tail of the Dragon &
back & it only dropped my mpg down to 10.
Hope this was some help in coming to a decision.
Mad Mike

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Steve Sanders
  To: healey OwnersAutox
  Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 10:05 AM
  Subject: [Healeys] Trailer Length


  I have had a 20' enclosed car hauler for 10 years and used it to transport
my
  BT-7 to several shows.  The trailer was recently stolen from my house -
Thank
  goodness my Healey was in the workshop locked up.

  I am going to get another trailer.  Does anyone use an 18' or even 16'
  enclosed trailer for a big Healey?  I had a tool box in the front that was
  very handy - but there seemed to be a lot of room at the rear.

  Comments- suggestions?

  Best Regards

  Steve Sanders
  61 BT-7
  _______________________________________________
  Healeys at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From michel.murphy at gmail.com  Tue Jun 29 10:49:04 2010
From: michel.murphy at gmail.com (Michel Murphy)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 12:49:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Request for BJ7 Dash pictures
Message-ID: <AANLkTikefdrNZtr_DYUFB8PneFXmczYHxQFs-JNLtnTb@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All,

I'm about to install the dash on my BJ7 and am wondering about a some of
odds and ends that are behind the dash: steering column steady bracket,
parcel tray bracket, clips, etc.  I have some before and after pictures, but
they don't show me everything that I need to know.  I'm not looking to do
concourse level resto, but where I can I would like to be as accurate as
possible. I would greatly appreciate any pictures that you might have.  If
possible in highest resolution possible, because I'm sure I'll be zooming in
to check out the details.

Please contact me off line.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

63 BJ7

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Tue Jun 29 11:09:32 2010
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 10:09:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
Message-ID: <63CBD35F-49F6-4213-9683-40F2A524F8EA@cox.net>

Sounds to me like a intake manifold leak (or other source of lean-out.  
Throttle bushes, blown carb gaskets, etc.

Wilko
San Diego

From jpayne at ThorCon.net  Tue Jun 29 11:26:03 2010
From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 10:26:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <63CBD35F-49F6-4213-9683-40F2A524F8EA@cox.net>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
	<63CBD35F-49F6-4213-9683-40F2A524F8EA@cox.net>
Message-ID: <AE9A56AF72D16A49ABFACB65838DE65446EAE880BB@LVSERVER2.Main.thor.com>

I did a TR3 once and failed to properly seat the intake manifold.  It appeared
tight at the top, but had 1/16" gap at the bottom where it connected to the
head - thus no vacumm.

Similar problem in running that you describe.

Jonas Payne
Director of Preconstruction
Thor Construction
PH:    (702) 269-2007
Fax:   (702) 269-7095
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 10:10 AM
To: Paul Leeks
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice

Sounds to me like a intake manifold leak (or other source of lean-out.
Throttle bushes, blown carb gaskets, etc.

Wilko
San Diego
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jun 29 11:46:38 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 13:46:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] mini garage
Message-ID: <8CCE5CA292CB01E-D88-91F@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>

Is there a current source for what is often referred to as a "mini garage"?
This is a water proof cover that fits over the erect top, door windows/side
screens, etc.
I have tried contacting National Restoration at 800-501-5687, the last contact
information I have, but don't get a answer.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Jun 29 12:15:33 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 14:15:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] mini garage
In-Reply-To: <8CCE5CA292CB01E-D88-91F@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCE5CA292CB01E-D88-91F@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <022001cb17b7$10ea84d0$32bf8e70$@verizon.net>

Try this one:

http://www.coversshop.co.uk/car_covers.htm

Go about half way down the page.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 1:47 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] mini garage

Is there a current source for what is often referred to as a "mini garage"?
This is a water proof cover that fits over the erect top, door windows/side
screens, etc.
I have tried contacting National Restoration at 800-501-5687, the last
contact information I have, but don't get a answer.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jun 29 12:33:00 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 20:33:00 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4C2A3C5C.70306@chello.nl>

Paul,
A faulty valve/camshaft timing is higly unlikely unless someone messed 
up things really bad when the engine was build up.
-Is your distributor OK, i.e. do the weights move freely and are the 
proper springs fitted?
-Are all vacu|m lines connected?
-Are the carbs in order, proper damping with ATF or very light oil, 
correct springs, no worn butterfly spindles?
-Are the correct needles and jets fitted to the carbs?
-Did you fit new sparkplug leads?
-Is the wiring of the electronic ignition connected up the right way?
-Did you check the mixture using a Colortune?
-Did you balance the carbs?

Most likely the mixture is to lean due to a leak somewhere.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Paul Leeks wrote:
> After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic
> ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the carbs
> using a carb kit.  However, I still can't seem to get any power.
>
>
>
> I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a timing
> gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound and
> I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around the
> inlet manifold, etc.).
>
>
>
> So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been up
> and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any
> success.
>
>
>
> The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on
> acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat!
>
>
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Paul Leeks
>
> Lancashire

From bispmotala at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 29 13:12:40 2010
From: bispmotala at hotmail.com (Ulla&Sven Ordell)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 21:12:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <4C2A3C5C.70306@chello.nl>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
	<4C2A3C5C.70306@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <SNT140-ds6D1CCA05899407C66CCB3DDCB0@phx.gbl>

Paul
Good advice from Kees.
I would like to add; do the carb spindles moving in unison. Or is just one
carb doing the job once off idling. Been there.

Regards
Sven
Sweden

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Fvr Oudesluys
Skickat: den 29 juni 2010 20:33
Till: Paul Leeks
Kopia: healeys at autox.team.net
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice

Paul,
A faulty valve/camshaft timing is higly unlikely unless someone messed
up things really bad when the engine was build up.
-Is your distributor OK, i.e. do the weights move freely and are the
proper springs fitted?
-Are all vacu|m lines connected?
-Are the carbs in order, proper damping with ATF or very light oil,
correct springs, no worn butterfly spindles?
-Are the correct needles and jets fitted to the carbs?
-Did you fit new sparkplug leads?
-Is the wiring of the electronic ignition connected up the right way?
-Did you check the mixture using a Colortune?
-Did you balance the carbs?

Most likely the mixture is to lean due to a leak somewhere.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Paul Leeks wrote:
> After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic
> ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the
carbs
> using a carb kit.  However, I still can't seem to get any power.
>
>
>
> I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a
timing
> gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound
and
> I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around
the
> inlet manifold, etc.).
>
>
>
> So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been
up
> and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any
> success.
>
>
>
> The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on
> acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat!
>
>
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Paul Leeks
>
> Lancashire
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From ampole at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 29 13:27:49 2010
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 19:27:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] mini garage
In-Reply-To: <022001cb17b7$10ea84d0$32bf8e70$@verizon.net>
References: <8CCE5CA292CB01E-D88-91F@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>,
	<022001cb17b7$10ea84d0$32bf8e70$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <SNT144-w61713F56048CBD5178EA13D5CB0@phx.gbl>

Gary / john



Covershop also sell the healey one on ebay item 370381620746, not sure if they
would post abroad though? I had been thinking about one for emergencies in the
British weather (no hood fitted yet). Ebay one gives you some idea on price.



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/
Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Jun 29 13:40:51 2010
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 15:40:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] mini garage
In-Reply-To: <SNT144-w61713F56048CBD5178EA13D5CB0@phx.gbl>
References: <8CCE5CA292CB01E-D88-91F@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>,
	<022001cb17b7$10ea84d0$32bf8e70$@verizon.net>
	<SNT144-w61713F56048CBD5178EA13D5CB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <022a01cb17c2$fb5cd350$f21679f0$@verizon.net>

It shows up on my eBay. 42 pounds. I have also placed a link to this
business in the Miscellaneous section of the Pars page on my site.

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

http://www.healey6.com

 

From: andy pole [mailto:ampole at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 3:28 PM
To: ahbn6 at verizon.net; warthodson at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] mini garage

 

Gary / john
 
Covershop also sell the healey one on ebay item 370381620746, not sure if
they would post abroad though? I had been thinking about one for emergencies
in the British weather (no hood fitted yet). Ebay one gives you some idea on
price.
 
cheers Andy



  _____  

Get a free e-mail account with Hotmail. Sign-up now.
<http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/> 

From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jun 29 14:19:38 2010
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 16:19:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] mini garage
In-Reply-To: <022a01cb17c2$fb5cd350$f21679f0$@verizon.net>
References: <8CCE5CA292CB01E-D88-91F@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>,
	<022001cb17b7$10ea84d0$32bf8e70$@verizon.net><SNT144-w61713F56048CBD5178EA13D5CB0@phx.gbl>
	<022a01cb17c2$fb5cd350$f21679f0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <8CCE5DF889DEDD8-720-3124@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks for all the quick replies with leads on mini garages.
We have one on order.
Thanks,
Gary









=

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Jun 29 14:20:24 2010
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 21:20:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <SNT140-ds6D1CCA05899407C66CCB3DDCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
	<4C2A3C5C.70306@chello.nl>
	<SNT140-ds6D1CCA05899407C66CCB3DDCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000501cb17c8$81ee3080$85ca9180$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Yes, me too..... & it does sound carb/inlet/vacuum/lean area to me.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ulla&Sven Ordell
Sent: 29 June 2010 20:13
To: 'Oudesluys'; 'Paul Leeks'
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice

Paul
Good advice from Kees.
I would like to add; do the carb spindles moving in unison. Or is just one
carb doing the job once off idling. Been there.

Regards
Sven
Sweden

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Fvr Oudesluys
Skickat: den 29 juni 2010 20:33
Till: Paul Leeks
Kopia: healeys at autox.team.net
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice

Paul,
A faulty valve/camshaft timing is higly unlikely unless someone messed
up things really bad when the engine was build up.
-Is your distributor OK, i.e. do the weights move freely and are the
proper springs fitted?
-Are all vacu|m lines connected?
-Are the carbs in order, proper damping with ATF or very light oil,
correct springs, no worn butterfly spindles?
-Are the correct needles and jets fitted to the carbs?
-Did you fit new sparkplug leads?
-Is the wiring of the electronic ignition connected up the right way?
-Did you check the mixture using a Colortune?
-Did you balance the carbs?

Most likely the mixture is to lean due to a leak somewhere.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Paul Leeks wrote:
> After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic
> ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the
carbs
> using a carb kit.  However, I still can't seem to get any power.
>
>
>
> I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a
timing
> gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound
and
> I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around
the
> inlet manifold, etc.).
>
>
>
> So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been
up
> and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any
> success.
>
>
>
> The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on
> acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat!
>
>
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Paul Leeks
>
> Lancashire
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bispmotala at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jun 29 14:29:13 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 22:29:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <000501cb17c8$81ee3080$85ca9180$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
	<4C2A3C5C.70306@chello.nl>
	<SNT140-ds6D1CCA05899407C66CCB3DDCB0@phx.gbl>
	<000501cb17c8$81ee3080$85ca9180$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4C2A5799.9050208@chello.nl>

One other thing to check is that the carb pistons move freely and do not 
stick. When lifted they should drop down with a clear click, without the 
needle touching the jet. If not clean pistons and dashpots carefully 
and/or adjust the needles to centre them.
Kees Oudesluijs


Simon Lachlan wrote:
> Paul
> Good advice from Kees.
> I would like to add; do the carb spindles moving in unison. Or is just one
> carb doing the job once off idling. Been there.
>
> Regards
> Sven
> Sweden
>
>
> Paul,
> A faulty valve/camshaft timing is higly unlikely unless someone messed
> up things really bad when the engine was build up.
> -Is your distributor OK, i.e. do the weights move freely and are the
> proper springs fitted?
> -Are all vacu|m lines connected?
> -Are the carbs in order, proper damping with ATF or very light oil,
> correct springs, no worn butterfly spindles?
> -Are the correct needles and jets fitted to the carbs?
> -Did you fit new sparkplug leads?
> -Is the wiring of the electronic ignition connected up the right way?
> -Did you check the mixture using a Colortune?
> -Did you balance the carbs?
>
> Most likely the mixture is to lean due to a leak somewhere.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Tue Jun 29 14:32:10 2010
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 06:32:10 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 misfire
In-Reply-To: <8CCE5DF889DEDD8-720-3124@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCE5CA292CB01E-D88-91F@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>,
	<022001cb17b7$10ea84d0$32bf8e70$@verizon.net><SNT144-w61713F56048CBD5178EA13D5CB0@phx.gbl><022a01cb17c2$fb5cd350$f21679f0$@verizon.net>
	<8CCE5DF889DEDD8-720-3124@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C4A1AE821BB646FAA5BB411C597FB43A@Notebook>

G'day list

Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry about this. On Monday we had the 
car on a dyno and gas analyser, and within minutes we'd found the problem to 
be overly weak carb needles. Although the ones it the HS6s were OA6s, the 
rich needle for the 100M, the mixture was leaning out excessively after 
about 1/4 throttle. We tried some richer needles that were to hand (RH) 
which improved matters somewhat, but  they weren't rich enough so we 
consulted the SU charts and now have some 55s on order. More on this when 
we've tried them. The cam it appears isn't anything out of the ordinary so 
we'll set the clearances back to standard.

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz


--------------------------------------------------
From: <warthodson at aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 6:19 AM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] mini garage

> Thanks for all the quick replies with leads on mini garages.
> We have one on order.
> Thanks,
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 29 15:58:29 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 14:58:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimmym8Ozdo1X5zotmKXwlJ-UJTVFO1cfvSoBBUe@mail.gmail.com>

cracked manifold?

On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Paul Leeks <Paull at glasgows.co.uk> wrote:

> After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic
> ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the
> carbs
> using a carb kit.  However, I still can't seem to get any power.
>
>
>
> I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a
> timing
> gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound
> and
> I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around the
> inlet manifold, etc.).
>
>
>
> So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been up
> and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any
> success.
>
>
>
> The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on
> acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat!
>
>
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Paul Leeks
>
> Lancashire
>
> 100/6 BN4
>
>
>
> Glasgows
> Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW
>
> Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566
> Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk <mailto:paull at paull@glasgows.co.uk>
>
> EMAIL DISCLAIMER
> Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not
> necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to
> whom
> it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information.
> Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this
> message
> to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law.
> Please
> notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake
> and
> delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow &
> Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No.
> 2257022.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The
> service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive
> anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit:
> http://www.star.net.uk
> ________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______                                  _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
        (_________________________)

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 29 16:38:17 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 18:38:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 wheel arch cover plates
Message-ID: <SNT143-w63809660519884CF44356DD4CB0@phx.gbl>

How were the wheel arch cover plates originally installed?  (The plates that
attach to the "hood" frame support panel and the interior panels are also
attached to).  Are they to be welded, riveted (unlikely), or screwed in
place?

Thanks, Shawn



The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 29 16:53:16 2010
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 15:53:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
Message-ID: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

A quick way to check for intake leak -while engine is running take a welder's
torch or a propane torch turn the acetylene gas or propane gas do not light,
run the nozzle around the carb connections and around the intake  manifold
connections. If engine speed increase you have a leak.
Lack of power- check the pinch bolt on throttle pedal shaft to the linkage
first, then check the dash pots for movement up and down- they must be able to
raise and fall freely. Thirdly,  check for timing advance weight in the
distributor- weights should move freely and correctly. You could also check
spark plugs- lean plug will have little carbon residue.
another area to check - air breather gaskets and air breather are not blocking
the carb vent holes where the breather attaches. Also check the vents to the
float bowls are not plugged. the carburetor requires atmospheric pressure to
move fuel through the carburetor.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jun 29 17:11:01 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 07:11:01 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
References: <86ACBC8750277041A4115960B570CD06518CCA@glamail.glasgowsnet.co.uk>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinju9XI3aAH5KSoshs-LGKYRidB1TqVzy1gZNCk@mail.gmail.com>

Paul -

If your BN4 has the 12 port head, check the casting plug on the back
of the intake manifold (the part facing the bulkhead).

Sometimes if you get a strong pre-fire, it will cause the plug to
dislodge slightly and create a vacuum leak.  It can be very hard to
see, you have to feel it with your hand - the plug is convex in shape
with no lip.  Feel around the circumference and if one side is poking
out, that is your problem.

Alan

On 6/29/10, Paul Leeks <Paull at glasgows.co.uk> wrote:
> After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic
> ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the
> carbs
> using a carb kit.  However, I still can't seem to get any power.
>
>
>
> I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a
> timing
> gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound
> and
> I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around the
> inlet manifold, etc.).
>
>
>
> So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been up
> and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any
> success.
>
>
>
> The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on
> acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat!
>
>
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Paul Leeks
>
> Lancashire
>
> 100/6 BN4
>
>
>
> Glasgows
> Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW
>
> Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566
> Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk <mailto:paull at paull@glasgows.co.uk>
>
> EMAIL DISCLAIMER
> Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not
> necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom
> it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information.
> Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message
> to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please
> notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and
> delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow &
> Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No.
> 2257022.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> This e-mail has been scanned for all known viruses by Star. The
> service is powered by MessageLabs. For more information on a proactive
> anti-virus service working around the clock, around the globe, visit:
> http://www.star.net.uk
> ________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 29 17:29:33 2010
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 23:29:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinju9XI3aAH5KSoshs-LGKYRidB1TqVzy1gZNCk@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1733766266.39272.1277854173182.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: 
" Sometimes if you get a strong pre-fire, it will cause the plug to 
dislodge slightly and create a vacuum leak" 

Or blow the thing out completely. 

Also, check for blockage in exhaust system. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


Paul - 

If your BN4 has the 12 port head, check the casting plug on the back 
of the intake manifold (the part facing the bulkhead). 

Sometimes if you get a strong pre-fire, it will cause the plug to 
dislodge slightly and create a vacuum leak. It can be very hard to 
see, you have to feel it with your hand - the plug is convex in shape 
with no lip. Feel around the circumference and if one side is poking 
out, that is your problem. 

Alan 

On 6/29/10, Paul Leeks <Paull at glasgows.co.uk> wrote: 
> After having problems with the poor running of my BN4, I put an electronic 
> ignition in the distributer (which was also overhauled) and rebuilt the 
> carbs 
> using a carb kit. However, I still can't seem to get any power. 
> 
> 
> 
> I am pretty certain that the timing is right (having checked it with a 
> timing 
> gun), all the electric connections (plugs, cables, etc.) seem to be sound 
> and 
> I cannot identify any specific problems with the carbs (ie leaks around the 
> inlet manifold, etc.). 
> 
> 
> 
> So I think the trouble is with the setting of the carbs, but I have been up 
> and down the adjustment nuts (rich to lean and back again) without any 
> success. 
> 
> 
> 
> The symptoms are ... a smooth idle, smooth but very sluggish pick-up on 
> acceleration accompanied by a loud machine-gun type rat-ta-tat-tat! 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas? 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> 
> 
> Paul Leeks 
> 
> Lancashire 
> 
> 100/6 BN4 
> 
> 
> 
> Glasgows 
> Customs House, Customs Way, Preston, Lancashire, PR2 2UW 
> 
> Tel: 01772 767505 Fax: 01772 767566 
> Email: paull at glasgows.co.uk <mailto:paull at paull@glasgows.co.uk> 

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 29 17:39:28 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 16:39:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Heater_core?=
Message-ID: <4c2a8421.17188f0a.4b8e.56ef@mx.google.com>

Do both pipes need to have a gnurled end?  I just picked mine up from radiator shop and they cut off the top of the pipe that the valve connects to. Now it is smooth while the other one is still gnurled.  Is this OK?  Will the valve seal OK?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
Please excuse typos
It's Erbs 
DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Jun 29 20:03:18 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 22:03:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 wheel arch cover plates
In-Reply-To: <SNT143-w63809660519884CF44356DD4CB0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT143-w63809660519884CF44356DD4CB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5DDE7AB2861B4F288D13FA3E53BBCE5F@LIFEBOOK>

They are screwed into place on the welded plateau bracket that's on top of 
the wheel arch.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 6:38 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 wheel arch cover plates

> How were the wheel arch cover plates originally installed?  (The plates 
> that
> attach to the "hood" frame support panel and the interior panels are also
> attached to).  Are they to be welded, riveted (unlikely), or screwed in
> place?
>
> Thanks, Shawn
>
>
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
>
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
>
> 1964 MGB 40841
>
> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your 
> inbox.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
> :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr07 019.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jun071 012.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr07 016.jpg]

From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jun 29 23:51:17 2010
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 01:51:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Rendezvous 2010
Message-ID: <8CCE62F649CC1D0-10CC-7153@webmail-m079.sysops.aol.com>

Day two update:
The car show was a success even though the weather was a bit cool in
the early morning. A wide range of models took to the field in a local
park. The BJ8's had the largest showing but there was a very nice mix
on hand. Even the Nash Healey folks showed up in force. A bar-b-que
followed at noon with a tasty assortment of protein. The tech session
at a local British Car repair and sales shop was well attended. It
provided another opportunity to see a mini Healey parade on the
highways and local streets of Eugene.

I know that some folks cringe at the idea of concours judging of our
little beasts but when you see the near perfect examples up close it
takes you back to to those visits to the Austin Healey dealers showroom
so many decades ago. Days of dreams that young boys and men had of
owning one. At least it was that way for me.

Tomorrow is a tech session, a rally and a tour plus more......

Aloha
Perry

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jun 30 00:24:09 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 08:24:09 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>

Jezus, are you out of your mind, highly dangerous with sparks from the 
distributor around and possible blow back. Use a bit of WD40 instead, 
but still be carefull.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Martin Jansen wrote:
> A quick way to check for intake leak -while engine is running take a welder's
> torch or a propane torch turn the acetylene gas or propane gas do not light,
> run the nozzle around the carb connections and around the intake  manifold
> connections. If engine speed increase you have a leak.
>
>
> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Jun 30 08:16:44 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 07:16:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>
References: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin4800WdwvuC8MUG8RgX12dpBYkQVNfW5xz1WzD@mail.gmail.com>

That is actually how is it supposed to be done.  Professional mechanics use
a tool that screws on top of a small (hand held) propane bottle with a hose
and a push button.  Put the hose near the area you want to check for a
vacuum leak and push the button.  Idle changes = leak.
This is far safer than the commonly use spray carb cleaner or WD-40 all over
the engine.  I have seen more than one guy set an engine on fire that way.

On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 11:24 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Jezus, are you out of your mind, highly dangerous with sparks from the
> distributor around and possible blow back. Use a bit of WD40 instead, but
> still be carefull.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Martin Jansen wrote:
>
>> A quick way to check for intake leak -while engine is running take a
>> welder's
>> torch or a propane torch turn the acetylene gas or propane gas do not
>> light,
>> run the nozzle around the carb connections and around the intake  manifold
>> connections. If engine speed increase you have a leak.
>>
>>
>> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 30 08:40:05 2010
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 07:40:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>
References: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <3A4B3B67-121F-4461-935C-4F2EF16AF462@gmail.com>

Lol. We used a can of starter fluid.  I was taken back a bit by  
thought of a 4' tall bottle of gas igniting too.

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Jun 29, 2010, at 11:24 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Jezus, are you out of your mind, highly dangerous with sparks from  
> the distributor around and possible blow back. Use a bit of WD40  
> instead, but still be carefull.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Martin Jansen wrote:
>> A quick way to check for intake leak -while engine is running take  
>> a welder's
>> torch or a propane torch turn the acetylene gas or propane gas do  
>> not light,
>> run the nozzle around the carb connections and around the intake   
>> manifold
>> connections. If engine speed increase you have a leak.
>>
>>
>> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 30 09:23:00 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 08:23:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Rendezvous 2010
In-Reply-To: <8CCE62F649CC1D0-10CC-7153@webmail-m079.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCE62F649CC1D0-10CC-7153@webmail-m079.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W642378958E54F017105EEAA4CC0@phx.gbl>

Perry, which is your car? We are the white Healey with the badge bar with lots
of Tahoe events and a luggage rack in back. Come by and say, "HI".
Rich Kahn

> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 01:51:17 -0400
> From: healeyguy at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Rendezvous 2010
>
> Day two update:
> The car show was a success even though the weather was a bit cool in
> the early morning. A wide range of models took to the field in a local
> park. The BJ8's had the largest showing but there was a very nice mix
> on hand. Even the Nash Healey folks showed up in force. A bar-b-que
> followed at noon with a tasty assortment of protein. The tech session
> at a local British Car repair and sales shop was well attended. It
> provided another opportunity to see a mini Healey parade on the
> highways and local streets of Eugene.
>
> I know that some folks cringe at the idea of concours judging of our
> little beasts but when you see the near perfect examples up close it
> takes you back to to those visits to the Austin Healey dealers showroom
> so many decades ago. Days of dreams that young boys and men had of
> owning one. At least it was that way for me.
>
> Tomorrow is a tech session, a rally and a tour plus more......
>
> Aloha
> Perry
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
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Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 30 09:29:33 2010
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 08:29:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rendevous via Redding, CA
In-Reply-To: <COL110-W35949BB29DE8D2BA02F7D7DCC70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W522CDBD291F5E414B72245A4DF0@phx.gbl>,
	<COL110-W35949BB29DE8D2BA02F7D7DCC70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL121-W1281A5AD216E96991E7618A4CC0@phx.gbl>

Small world! We were talking about the Sundial Bridge at the BBQ at the Healey
show and shine and were informed that the son-in-law of our friends (Roger and
Donna Hawk, owners of a 100 and a BJ8) designed that bridge.
Rich

From: kipannette at hotmail.com
To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Rendevous via Redding, CA
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:14:09 +0000








Hi Rich,

We're not going to be able to go this year, but you should try to walk the
Sundial Bridge, Sunday evening.  If you are heading up I-5, you will be going
over Shasta Lake, which is as full as it has been in a few years, by Castle
Crags, a nice state park, and Dunsmuir, a cute little town with a couple of
good restaurants.  You will also see Mt. Shasta, still with lots of snow, on
the way north to Weed and Yreka.

Enjoy,

Kip Williams


> Anyone heading to Eugen, OR for the Rendevous via Redding, CA? We will be
> staying at the Fairfield Inn Sunday the 27th. Anything (fun) to see on the
way
> up from Redding? We are heading up from South Lake Tahoe via Sacramento on
> Sunday morning and would be happy to join up with anyone along the way.
> Rich Kahn


The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail. Get busy.
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
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From grday at btinternet.com  Wed Jun 30 11:36:29 2010
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 18:36:29 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
References: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>
	<AANLkTin4800WdwvuC8MUG8RgX12dpBYkQVNfW5xz1WzD@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F126C14338A4B21A129D44487332165@user8634b3d69b>

We used the same length of tube used to balance the air flow through the 
carbs and listened for a flow of air around the joint.  Perhaps a little 
slower but safer than either of the other methods mentioned.  One of the 
chaps in the tuning bay had a stethoscope with a metal tip in the end 
instead of the medical type tympanum.  (Didn't know if that was the right 
spelling so I looked up 
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-mechanics-stethoscope.htm on this 'ere 
internet-webby thing)

Guy R Day



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Cc: "Paul Leeks" <Paull at glasgows.co.uk>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice


> That is actually how is it supposed to be done.  Professional mechanics 
> use
> a tool that screws on top of a small (hand held) propane bottle with a 
> hose
> and a push button.  Put the hose near the area you want to check for a
> vacuum leak and push the button.  Idle changes = leak.
> This is far safer than the commonly use spray carb cleaner or WD-40 all 
> over
> the engine.  I have seen more than one guy set an engine on fire that way.
>
> On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 11:24 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Jezus, are you out of your mind, highly dangerous with sparks from the
>> distributor around and possible blow back. Use a bit of WD40 instead, but
>> still be carefull.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>> Martin Jansen wrote:
>>
>>> A quick way to check for intake leak -while engine is running take a
>>> welder's
>>> torch or a propane torch turn the acetylene gas or propane gas do not
>>> light,
>>> run the nozzle around the carb connections and around the intake 
>>> manifold
>>> connections. If engine speed increase you have a leak.
>>>
>>>
>>> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jun 30 11:44:50 2010
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 19:44:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin4800WdwvuC8MUG8RgX12dpBYkQVNfW5xz1WzD@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>
	<AANLkTin4800WdwvuC8MUG8RgX12dpBYkQVNfW5xz1WzD@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C2B8292.6040108@chello.nl>

What professionals use is a small propane torch the size of a cigarette 
lighter, not a "f..." acetylene or propane welders torch.
WD40 is rather safe if you use it sparingly, do not douse the engine 
with it. The propellant is probably butane or propane, the fluid itself 
will not explode in your face.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Richard Ewald wrote:
> That is actually how is it supposed to be done.  Professional 
> mechanics use a tool that screws on top of a small (hand held) propane 
> bottle with a hose and a push button.  Put the hose near the area you 
> want to check for a vacuum leak and push the button.  Idle changes = 
> leak.  
> This is far safer than the commonly use spray carb cleaner or WD-40 
> all over the engine.  I have seen more than one guy set an engine on 
> fire that way.
>
> On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 11:24 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl 
> <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
>     Jezus, are you out of your mind, highly dangerous with sparks from
>     the distributor around and possible blow back. Use a bit of WD40
>     instead, but still be carefull.
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>     NL
>
>     Martin Jansen wrote:
>
>         A quick way to check for intake leak -while engine is running
>         take a welder's
>         torch or a propane torch turn the acetylene gas or propane gas
>         do not light,
>         run the nozzle around the carb connections and around the
>         intake  manifold
>         connections. If engine speed increase you have a leak.
>
>
>         Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
>         <http://www.jule-enterprises.com>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.830 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2971 - datum van uitgifte: 06/29/10 20:35:00

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 30 11:47:49 2010
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 13:47:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 wheel arch cover plates
In-Reply-To: <5DDE7AB2861B4F288D13FA3E53BBCE5F@LIFEBOOK>
References: <SNT143-w63809660519884CF44356DD4CB0@phx.gbl>,
	<5DDE7AB2861B4F288D13FA3E53BBCE5F@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <SNT143-w339D91A69A7F342D95349AD4CC0@phx.gbl>

"Screwed" it is.  Thank you for the information.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 wheel arch cover plates
> Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 22:03:18 -0400
>
> They are screwed into place on the welded plateau bracket that's on top of
> the wheel arch.
>
> Rich
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "S and T Miller" <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 6:38 PM
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] BT7 wheel arch cover plates
>
> > How were the wheel arch cover plates originally installed? (The plates
> > that
> > attach to the "hood" frame support panel and the interior panels are also
> > attached to). Are they to be welded, riveted (unlikely), or screwed in
> > place?
> >
> > Thanks, Shawn
> >
> >
> >
> > The Millers
> > "British Car Nuts"
> >
> > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
> >
> > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
> >
> > 1964 MGB 40841
> >
> > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
> >
> > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> > drive."
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
> > inbox.
> >
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
> > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
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:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 30 16:20:43 2010
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 15:20:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <4C2B8292.6040108@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <227541.17063.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I would like to point out two things: It was reported the car idled fine which
would suggest there is no vacuum leak. Secondly, all welding equipment and
propane are equipped with an adjustable valve mechanism which controls the
amount of gas that is leaving the container.
I guess if you  have a hand fisted approach you probably will blow yourself
up. This is why it is called a skilled trade. I have been the auto repair
industry for over 40 years. I have seen it done countless times and done it
myself without a problem. this is one of the ways to find a vacuum leak. WD40
is a flammable substance as well. Common sense is always a necessary element
in any auto repair.
The engine is running. The fan of the engine is running theerfore the rad fan
is blowing air across the motor thus reducing the chance of pocketing
flammable gas. this type of test will take less then 15 -20 seconds to do.

Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Jun 30 16:53:25 2010
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 15:53:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <227541.17063.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <227541.17063.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CA660DE4-9479-41B4-B432-A169D5AA175B@cox.net>

Idle can be adjusted just fine with certain leaks. open throttle and/ 
or load conditions introduce problems with running.


On Jun 30, 2010, at 3:20 PM, Martin Jansen wrote:

> I would like to point out two things: It was reported the car idled  
> fine which
> would suggest there is no vacuum leak.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jun 30 18:16:34 2010
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 08:16:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <227541.17063.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <4C2B8292.6040108@chello.nl>
	<227541.17063.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinbw49pAc5EgArI3uqsG6XKg4UjrzKYMbuiqM_0@mail.gmail.com>

Martin -

Slight leaks can be compensated for at idle....

Alan

On 7/1/10, Martin Jansen <jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I would like to point out two things: It was reported the car idled fine
> which
> would suggest there is no vacuum leak. Secondly, all welding equipment and
> propane are equipped with an adjustable valve mechanism which controls the
> amount of gas that is leaving the container.
> I guess if you  have a hand fisted approach you probably will blow yourself
> up. This is why it is called a skilled trade. I have been the auto repair
> industry for over 40 years. I have seen it done countless times and done it
> myself without a problem. this is one of the ways to find a vacuum leak.
> WD40
> is a flammable substance as well. Common sense is always a necessary element
> in any auto repair.
> The engine is running. The fan of the engine is running theerfore the rad
> fan
> is blowing air across the motor thus reducing the chance of pocketing
> flammable gas. this type of test will take less then 15 -20 seconds to do.
>
> Happy Healeying,   Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

From healeynut at yahoo.com.au  Wed Jun 30 18:41:32 2010
From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 17:41:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin4800WdwvuC8MUG8RgX12dpBYkQVNfW5xz1WzD@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>
	<AANLkTin4800WdwvuC8MUG8RgX12dpBYkQVNfW5xz1WzD@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <804035.90694.qm@web113110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Water in a plastic spray bottle does the job without any of the aforesaid
problems.

Don
NSW OZ




________________________________
From: Richard Ewald
<richard.ewald at gmail.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Cc: Paul Leeks
<Paull at glasgows.co.uk>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 1 July, 2010
12:16:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice

That is actually
how is it supposed to be done.  Professional mechanics use
a tool that screws
on top of a small (hand held) propane bottle with a hose
and a push button.
Put the hose near the area you want to check for a
vacuum leak and push the
button.  Idle changes = leak.
This is far safer than the commonly use spray
carb cleaner or WD-40 all over
the engine.  I have seen more than one guy set
an engine on fire that way.

On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 11:24 PM, Oudesluys
<coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Jezus, are you out of your mind, highly
dangerous with sparks from the
> distributor around and possible blow back.
Use a bit of WD40 instead, but
> still be carefull.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
Martin Jansen wrote:
>
>> A quick way to check for intake leak -while engine
is running take a
>> welder's
>> torch or a propane torch turn the acetylene
gas or propane gas do not
>> light,
>> run the nozzle around the carb
connections and around the intake  manifold
>> connections. If engine speed
increase you have a leak.
>>
>>
>> Happy Healeying,   Marty
www.jule-enterprises.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
Healeys at autox.team.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut at yahoo.com.au

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Jun 30 19:18:32 2010
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 18:18:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <804035.90694.qm@web113110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <83453.77665.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4C2AE309.6020904@chello.nl>
	<AANLkTin4800WdwvuC8MUG8RgX12dpBYkQVNfW5xz1WzD@mail.gmail.com>
	<804035.90694.qm@web113110.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikZCF0mzIDd8yvmJODNGicT8GIZDz_7Sstb3CJd@mail.gmail.com>

Trust me when I say that water does not always find vacuum leaks.  Or bad
plug wires for that matter.
Go ahead, ask me how I know this.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 5:41 PM, Don Hardie <healeynut at yahoo.com.au> wrote:

> Water in a plastic spray bottle does the job without any of the aforesaid
> problems.
>
> Don
> NSW OZ
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
> *To:* Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Cc:* Paul Leeks <Paull at glasgows.co.uk>; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Sent:* Thu, 1 July, 2010 12:16:44 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
>
> That is actually how is it supposed to be done.  Professional mechanics use
> a tool that screws on top of a small (hand held) propane bottle with a hose
> and a push button.  Put the hose near the area you want to check for a
> vacuum leak and push the button.  Idle changes = leak.
> This is far safer than the commonly use spray carb cleaner or WD-40 all
> over
> the engine.  I have seen more than one guy set an engine on fire that way.
>
> On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 11:24 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
> > Jezus, are you out of your mind, highly dangerous with sparks from the
> > distributor around and possible blow back. Use a bit of WD40 instead, but
> > still be carefull.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > NL
> >
> > Martin Jansen wrote:
> >
> >> A quick way to check for intake leak -while engine is running take a
> >> welder's
> >> torch or a propane torch turn the acetylene gas or propane gas do not
> >> light,
> >> run the nozzle around the carb connections and around the intake
> manifold
> >> connections. If engine speed increase you have a leak.
> >>
> >>
> >> Happy Healeying,  Marty  www.jule-enterprises.com
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut at yahoo.com.au

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Jun 30 19:26:05 2010
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 20:26:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] A bit of tuning advice
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinbw49pAc5EgArI3uqsG6XKg4UjrzKYMbuiqM_0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4C2B8292.6040108@chello.nl>
	<227541.17063.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<AANLkTinbw49pAc5EgArI3uqsG6XKg4UjrzKYMbuiqM_0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C2BEEAD.3050607@justbrits.com>

<< Slight leaks can be compensated for at idle.... >>

As I feel relatively sure that Martin & Rick will back me here,
Alan, NO SUCH ANIMAL.  NOR do they STAY "small".

Then ADD the FACT that the problem is NOT fixed..........!?!

In my 'short' term of working on anything, I have NEVER seen
a "self-healing" "problem" <G> !!  Perhaps you have better luck ?!?

Ed

PS:  And while I have Group's attention, might I ask WHY Paul, Kees, 
Rick, Martin, and yourself in dire need of eMail going to
The List ANYWAY - in this case it would be minimum of FOURTH
[4th] post THEY all have had their mailboxes clogged up with for
ZERO reason ???  And the MAJORITY of the group is just as
guilty as you in NOT cleaning up their OUT mail<G><G>!!

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
[with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the
For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.]
[and MOST is for Big Healey folks<G>]

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Wed Jun 30 20:37:45 2010
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 22:37:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Possible intake man leak
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E4B9F015@s07.frakes-eng.com>

We had a problem w Bj8 intake on Uk2K trip. After three travel days and
changing nearly everything, we stumbled on the steel plug in the rt.
rear of the intake (casting clean out hole).  Loose!    It rocked
slightly open on accel and back closed on idle and decel.  Place to
check.



Jim



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From rbender9 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 30 20:48:27 2010
From: rbender9 at sbcglobal.net (Robert Bender)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 19:48:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Question
Message-ID: <964997.11806.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I have begun restoring the heater from my BJ7.  Unfortunately, when I began
cleaning up the heater control bezel, I noticed it has a crack in it.  When I
began looking at replacements, I was surprised to find that the text on all of
these units was very different from mine.   My bezel has (in horizontal
letters) "PUSH" above the knob on the left and "AIR" below it.  The right knob
says "PULL TO INCREASE" above and "DEMIST" below.  However, all the
replacements have (in letters curved above the knobs) "COLD AIR" on the left
and "AIR FROM HEATER" on the right.  I never noticed this before.  Does anyone
recognize my old heater bezel?  Was it ever used on a 3000?
Thanks,
Bob 

From rmastrona at aol.com  Wed Jun 30 21:06:38 2010
From: rmastrona at aol.com (rmastrona at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 23:06:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Question
In-Reply-To: <964997.11806.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <964997.11806.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CCE6E18E4E5A7B-17C-629F@webmail-stg-d13.sysops.aol.com>

My original bezel from a BT7 is the same as the replacements you mentioned,
letter on an arc.

Rich






-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Bender <rbender9 at sbcglobal.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Jun 30, 2010 10:48 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Question


I have begun restoring the heater from my BJ7.  Unfortunately, when I began
leaning up the heater control bezel, I noticed it has a crack in it.  When I
egan looking at replacements, I was surprised to find that the text on all of
hese units was very different from mine.   My bezel has (in horizontal
etters) "PUSH" above the knob on the left and "AIR" below it.  The right knob
ays "PULL TO INCREASE" above and "DEMIST" below.  However, all the
eplacements have (in letters curved above the knobs) "COLD AIR" on the left
nd "AIR FROM HEATER" on the right.  I never noticed this before.  Does anyone
ecognize my old heater bezel?  Was it ever used on a 3000?
hanks,
ob
______________________________________________
ealeys at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
uggested annual donation  $12.75
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rmastrona at aol.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Jun 30 21:52:31 2010
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 23:52:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Question
In-Reply-To: <964997.11806.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <964997.11806.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <89204A5611CB419498918CF6B96997F4@LIFEBOOK>

Sounds like the one form an MGA.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Robert Bender" <rbender9 at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 10:48 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Question

> I have begun restoring the heater from my BJ7.  Unfortunately, when I 
> began
> cleaning up the heater control bezel, I noticed it has a crack in it. 
> When I
> began looking at replacements, I was surprised to find that the text on 
> all of
> these units was very different from mine.   My bezel has (in horizontal
> letters) "PUSH" above the knob on the left and "AIR" below it.  The right 
> knob
> says "PULL TO INCREASE" above and "DEMIST" below.  However, all the
> replacements have (in letters curved above the knobs) "COLD AIR" on the 
> left
> and "AIR FROM HEATER" on the right.  I never noticed this before.  Does 
> anyone
> recognize my old heater bezel?  Was it ever used on a 3000?
> Thanks,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net 

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sun Jun 27 20:08:59 2010
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:08:59 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <SNT144-w8CC00D95AA854A4C339C2D5B40@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT144-w8CC00D95AA854A4C339C2D5B40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001cb1666$e01ccc10$a0566430$@net.au>

Spam?
Site compromised?

John Rowe  Qld Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of andy pole
Sent: Friday, 9 July 2010 9:49 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)

http://buyhenade.medicationsrxwellness.net

________________________________________________________________