[Healeys] BJ8 Rear Shocks

[Bob Spidell]

I use Grade 8 flatwashers under the heads of the bolts, and lockwashers and blue Locktite on/under the nuts. 

I believe if you put lockwashers under the heads of the bolts they dig into the soft metal of the shock bodies and eventually lose tension. The Grade 8 flatwasher spreads the bolt tension so you have greater clamping surface hence greater overall clamping force. 

I've done this for years on the front shocks--no nuts or lockwashers, of course, just Locktite--and never had to tighten them. Ditto on the rears, except for one time I didn't use lockwashers on the backside and the bolts eventually loosened. 

bs 


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Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


G'day Mark 

It's one of those things that you learn from experience. 

Bloody tight for the shock mountings and not so bloody tight for the links. 

That's what mine are and they haven't budged for 25 years unless I wanted 
them undone. 

Hoo Roo 

Patrick Quinn 
Sydney, Australia 

Listers, 

Happy New Year! 
In the last year or two my rear shocks have taken to loosening at the 
mounting bolts. The result is a heavy thud on encountering certain 
road conditions. Tightening up the four bolts mounting the two shocks 
and all is well until they loosen again. I have decided to replace 
the original mounting hardware with Grade 8 bolts, lock washers and 
Nyloc nuts. Is there a recommended torque to be used on these bolts 
and nuts? While I am pursuing this chore I am also going to replace 
the shock links on both sides. The original links are losing their 
bushings. I ask the same question regarding the torque settings for 
the two threaded link ends on each link and the nuts involved in this 
assembly. And, before anybody mentions it, I will check the bolt 
holes for egg-shaped damage. Thanks 

Marks 3 
'66 BJ8